June 2019 | Textile Today

Bangladesh ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 June 2019

Driving business with knowledge Volume 12 |

Issue 06 | 128 Pages |

April 2019

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Industrial revolution 4.0-as you sow, so shall you reap!

Introducing ‘Industry 4.0’ to Bangladesh

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Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Managing Editor Akhi Akter Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha Mohammad Nurul Alam Technical Team Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Rakibul Islam Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 16th June 2019 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We have taken every effort to ensure accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. Š All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2019 Volume 12, Issue 06 (June 2019) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Bangladesh ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 June 2019

Driving business with knowledge Issue 06 | 142 Pages |

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On the Cover

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12-14

Driving business with knowledge

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well known Germany based textile auxiliaries and specialty chemical manufacturer.

Their high performance auxiliaries are easing the textile finishing process.

ce s nt d u r s ac in g th e a t,

Bangladesh Textile Today

www.textiletoday.com.bd Volume 12 |

Editorial

Content

Advertisement

26-29

June’ 19 |

Top Story

45

Cover Story

32-37

48

Budget Expectations

ITMA Preview

RMG makers seek Tk 3 bn emergency fund for struggling factories

Industrial revolution 4.0-as you sow, so shall you reap!

ITMA at a glance

Editorial

The sustainable growth path of apparel industry in Bangladesh Where is our energy future heading?

20

Issue 06

Factory Tales

The need of the time 3s’strategy, standard and system

16-18

Volume 12 |

ITMA 2019 will show real Industry 4.0 solutions

38-40

50

Sustainability Today

Spinning Today RSC to inspect RMG factories

ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain

22-25

Cover Plus

Background of USA vs. China trade war and its impact on world cotton trade

30

Brands & Bangladesh

Jute Today

Jute-Tin, another sustainable innovation by Dr. Mubarak

41

52-54

Local and foreign fashion brands in a race to grab Bangladesh market

Cotton World

56-58 Introducing ‘Industry 4.0’ to Bangladesh

8

Uzbekistan – potential star of the world textile & apparel industry

What should be the steps from the government to stop the illegal imports of yarn and fabric and raw materials?

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Content

June’ 19 |

Processing Today

63-66

Technology Review

Denim Today

81-82

Air Efficiency

Editorial

99-100

70

ITMA Preview

Thirst Sector

Immense untapped potential for Bangladesh sewing thread sector

101-102 Circular Fashion

A proactive planning team can make production process easy

84-85 The power of air in textile manufacturing

Issue 06

Apparel Today

Different coloration techniques for dyeing and printing industry

68-69

Volume 12 |

Denim Brands

6 of the best-fitting denim brands

85

Apparel waste: annual export earnings jump to $5 million

Textile Savvy

104-105 Exclusive

Interview

1 bale cotton makes how many things?

86

Denim Fabric

Being a country of the highest wastage and lower .....

Global denim fabric market value was

$19.70 billion

in 2018 The market to reach

$25.40 billion

by 2025

ITMA 2019 Sustainable Innovation Award finalists unveiled

Global denim fabric consumption upsurge indicates a bright future for Bangladesh

71

88-89

Huntsman Textile Effects introduces a new era of digital printing solutions at ITMA

72 Archroma prepares for ITMA with 5 innovations and 24 system solutions

Amber Denim and Textile Today jointly launched ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ training

90-91 Revolutionary textile dye process launched

74-76

Quality Today

QC Circle - how textile & apparel industry sector can be benefited

10

Denim People

117-118

Sportswear: unexplored opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel makers

120

Sweater

TTH Research

Design and development of smart personal floatation device with location tracking

94

Knitting Today

ITMA Preview

Jeanologia to present new production model based on digitalization and sustainability at ITMA

Sweater manufacturers are switching over to automated production system

121-122 Knitting

Technology

Global brands are racing towards a comprehensive 3D knitting solution

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

®

Editorial

The need of the time 3s’- strategy, standard and system The USA-China trade war, USD 100 billion Vs. USD 500 billion export, negotiation and renegotiation, BREXIT, middle east crisis and other international issues have increased uncertainty and volatility around the world economy to such an extent that it has become very difficult to look forward and remain optimistic. But for sure after every up, there is a down and vice-versa.

If we look at the public sector expenditures during the past decade in Bangladesh, we find that it was mostly concentrated on building power plants, infrastructure, roads and bridges, ports, developing new economic zones, etc. Once these projects are completed and start to feed the services to the economy, definitely these projects would have a positive impact on the economy and we are already witnessing some of the positive effects of some of those projects which were completed.

Public sector expenditure and activities have got an immense scope for improvement as well many other areas need to be attended; i.e., reducing richpoor gap, creating employment, improving the standard of education, improving the standard of health care, reduction of waste, leakages and corruption, developing public transport, family planning, etc. I am very optimistic that our elected leaders would take appropriate steps to allocate funds to different public sector activities based on public priorities that would eventually uplift the standard of living of the general public of Bangladesh.

Before returning to private sector priorities in this difficult spell of world economic uncertainty, I

12

would like to share information that I recently came across which helped me to start writing this article.

I was listening to an interview with Ren Zhengfei, CEO of Huawei, given to BBC. Zhengfei was asked about the effect of the arrest of his daughter (Who is also the Deputy Chairman and CFO of Huawei) on

ď„?

In order to bring the improvement, the organizations need to revisit and analyze their organization, understand the short term and long term challenges, set goals, identify the alternative paths to reach the goals and select a suitable path to reach the goal.

Huawei. The veteran CEO replied BBC that his organization is run by a system and even he is not there Huawei would keep moving towards its set trajectory. What a relief if the company is duly organized to run on auto-pilot!

Becoming a systematic and organized company that can expect to run with an auto-pilot, like Huawei, is a long journey. But it all starts with a firm commitment from the entrepreneur to become a systematic and organized one.

The efforts required varies from a start-up, a growing

and a matured company. Also, different organizations have a different matrix of strength, weakness, opportunity and threat. The different industry has different unique requirements and of course, each member or department of an organization has different expertise, skills, knowledge, behavior, choice and aspiration that needs to be directed towards the organizational goal.

Actually, there are a lot of things to do in order to design a system to direct all activities towards the goal before finalizing the goals through a detailed strategic plan.

Building standards and systems to make things happen which is a continuous process.

Putting the perspectives of Huawei vis-Ă -vis Bangladeshi organizations in this uncertain world economic situation, there are a lot of scopes for Bangladeshi private organizations to improve.

In order to bring the improvement, the organizations need to revisit and analyze their organization, understand the short term and long term challenges, set goals, identify the alternative paths to reach the goals and select a suitable path to reach the goal. In order to do that they can take the help of management consultants with proven track records or assign an appropriate team within the organization to make the change.

Side by side developing building blocks, standards and systems for different activities, developing human resources, guiding, motivating and rewarding (Seamlessly positively and negatively) and keep on improving on a continuous basis.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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Editorial

Finally, in this era of artificial intelligence (AI), we need to take advantage of technology to help us monitor our activities and take corrective actions ahead of time.

The methodology of reporting performance has changed significantly with the help of information technology where it is possible to minimize the ‘Time Lag’ of the actual incident

and reporting or getting into the cognition of appropriate authority to take corrective action to prevent collateral damage.

I think it is an appropriate time for Bangladeshi companies to take into the 3s’ [Strategy, Standard and System (Information System)] and consolidate into stronger companies.

Author Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM.

BD Apparel export jumps 12.82% to $31.73 bn in July-May of FY '19 Staff Correspondent Just after the Eid vacation the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data showing us the apparel export earnings for July-May period of FY19, increased by 12.82% to $31.73 billion from $28.13 billion in the same period of FY18, according to the EPB. Earnings from woven garments grew by 13.13% to $16.05 billion from $14.18 billion in the same period of the last fiscal year. On the other hand, knitwear export grew by 12.50% to $15.68 billion from $13.94 billion.

“We are receiving a lot of work orders from US retailers and brands for the ongoing trade war between the US and China. This is one of the major reasons for the higher shipment of garment items,” said Asif Ibrahim, a director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

US retailers and brands are flocking to Bangladesh because they want hassle-free shipment and do not want any uncertainty.

Sector leaders opined that work orders are also shifting from China

14

$16.05bn 13.13% growth in woven garments export

by the Accord and the Alliance, the two western brands’ platforms set up to improve the workplace safety in the sector.

Apart from apparel, some other sectors also fared well.

$15.68 bn 12.50% growth in Knitwear export

$773.57 mn 19.99% fall in Jute and jute goods export

and other countries to Bangladesh as the RMG sector in the world’s second largest economy - China - faces a higher cost of production, uncertainty and a lack of skilled workers.

The massive transformation in Bangladesh’s garment sector since the collapse of the Rana Plaza has also made the country an attractive destination to place orders.

The buyers’ confidence in the country has improved significantly owing to the inspection and remediation of garment factories

However, leather and leather goods and jute and jute goods continued their poor show. Leather and leather goods fetched $943.83 million, down 5.53% year-on-year.

This is largely because many tanneries that have shifted to the leather estate in Savar have not started full production yet.

The leather sector is the only segment that had crossed the $1-billion export mark after the garment sector and it still has the opportunity to repeat the success at the end of the fiscal year.

Exports of jute and jute goods, another important foreign currency earner, fell 19.99% year-on-year to $773.57 million.

The sector’s export earnings are declining mainly because of higher use of jute goods like sacks in the domestic market and the antidumping duty slapped on it by India.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Cover Story

Industrial revolution 4.0-as you sow, so shall you reap!

Kazi Farhan Hossain Purba Today we are talking about the fourth industrial revolution. Never before the world has seen so many possibilities and potential threats at the same time. Let's see what it is and what it has to offer to our future.

Industry 4.0!

Actually, the fourth industrial revolution is a way of describing the blurring of boundaries between the physical, digital, and biological worlds. It is like a hotchpotch of all the aspects like the advances in Artificial Intelligence (AI), robotics, the Internet of Things (IoT), genetic engineering, 3D printing, quantum computing, and many other technologies.

Think about the GPS system that you use to check the location of the nearest Uber driver or the fastest route to reach your destination, voiceactivated virtual assistants such as Apple’s Siri, Google's Google Assistant, personalized Netflix

16

recommendations, and Facebook’s face recognition to tag you in a friend’s photo! These all are relatable to every modern person, right?

Not only these! The ability to edit the building blocks of life has recently been massively expanded by low-cost gene sequencing and techniques such as CRISPR; artificial intelligence is augmenting processes and skill in every industry.

Neurotechnology is making unprecedented strides in how we can use and influence our brains, the most sophisticated part of the human body as the last frontier of human biology; automation is disrupting century-old transport and manufacturing ideas.

You will be astonished that Oracle research has estimated that there will be 10-million self-driving cars around the world by 2020!

Furthermore, technologies such as blockchain and smart materials are redefining and blurring the

boundary between the digital and physical worlds. As a result of this perfect tempest of technologies, the fourth industrial revolution is making the way for transformative changes in the way we live and radically disrupting almost every business sector. It is all happening at an incredibly fast pace.

By the way, there is a person behind the buzzword- 'fourth industrial revolution, also known as 4IR or Industry 4.0! The German engineer and economist who labeled today's advances as a new revolution is none other than Klaus Schwab, Founder and Executive Chairman of the World Economic Forum and author of a groundbreaking book called 'The fourth Industrial Revolution'.

In a 2016 article, Schwab wrote that “like the revolutions that preceded it, the fourth industrial revolution has the potential to raise global income levels and improve the quality of life for populations around the world.”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Cover Story

For his prophecies, it won't be irrelevant to compare him with the character Hari Seldon of 'Foundation and Empire', one of the greatest science fictions of Isaac Asimov!

Industry 4.0 and the textile industry, two friends walking hand in hand?

Clothing is considered as a basic human need. After food, the question of clothing comes. Not only this, it is actually a form of self-representation, self-respect and a sense of belonging that becomes even more relevant for individuals and social groups.

As this field plays an important role in the Industrial Revolution, Industry 4.0 is bound to modify the way clothing is manufactured and used. It must make a fast, flexible and efficient system.

Application of digital sensors and smart tags in manufacturing, supply chain and logistics will offer visibility, flexibility, and control of product flows. Two production models can be stated here: 1. Smart factory 2. Mini-factory.

According to SearchERP, a smart factory is a highly digitized and connected production facility that relies on smart manufacturing.

The concept of the smart factory is considered to be an important outcome of the fourth industrial revolution. According to Lupine publishers, it integrates stakeholders in a virtual and collaborative environment, while mini-factories are based on demand production.

Industry 4.0 will boost these models to thrive. To make everything smooth, the yarn and fabric production processes will be remotely monitored using QR Code (Quick Response Code) and RFID (Radio Frequency Identification).

Cutting and sewing offer the biggest hassles in textile manufacturing. Also, the sewing

Bangladesh Textile Today |

section is the most significant section of the ready-made garments industry. Different types of faults or defects arise in the sewing section which should be reduced to maintain the required quality of apparel. In this sense, artificial intelligence, intelligent hybrid systems, robots and fully automated and intelligent lines will be adopted. Utilization of Failure or quality problems predicting

 Cutting and sewing offer the biggest hassles in textile manufacturing. Also, the sewing section is the most significant section of the readymade garments industry. Different types of faults or defects arise in the sewing section which should be reduced to maintain the required quality of apparel. In this sense, artificial intelligence, intelligent hybrid systems, robots and fully automated and intelligent lines will be adopted. smart machines, organized decision-making process and selfoptimization is another scenario for the Industry 4.0.

Technology tends to be incorporated in fibers, yarn, fabrics and clothing in the form of functional materials, which includes biomedical and electronic textiles.

According to Drupa, there are three generations of textile

Volume 12, Issue 06

wearable technologies. The first generation is where a sensor is externally attached to clothes.

Google and Levi’s smart jacket is a great example. Second generation products embed the sensor in the garment, the sportswear brand Athos is a good example.

In the third generation wearables, the garment is the sensor. Here, technology and fabrics merge.

Dr. Nazmul Karim, Post-doctoral Knowledge Exchange FellowGraphene at the University of Manchester, National Graphene Institute and his team's research on 'Engineering Graphene Flakes for Wearable Textile Sensors via Highly Scalable and Ultrafast Yarn Dyeing Technique' is a great example of technological advancement of wearable technology.

For buying experience, internet, Virtual and Augmented Reality are bringing the business out of brick and mortar. 3D scanning is providing consumers the opportunity to scan, build a 3D model and begin ordering custom clothing.

Potential threats?

The fourth industrial revolution has invoked excitement and fear in equal measure. The inclusive grasp of artificial intelligence (AI) and machine learning and its effect on autonomous services has raised important questions about the future of jobs in the global economy.

Klaus Schwab predicted that the revolution could lead to greater inequality “particularly in its potential to disrupt labor markets.”

Furthermore, the job market may become increasingly segregated into ‘low-skill/low-pay’ and ‘highskill/high-pay’ roles, which could escalate social tension.

But we should not come to a conclusion so fast. Let's hear Schwab's another prediction“In the future, technological innovation will also lead to a supply-side miracle, with longterm gains in efficiency and productivity. Transportation and

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Cover Story

communication costs will drop, logistics and global supply chains will become more effective, and the cost of trade will diminish, all of which will open new markets and drive economic growth.”

He also said, “The changes are so profound that, from the perspective of human history, there has never been a time of greater promise or potential peril.”

So, the future is depending on the decisions that we make now!

It depends on how we prepare ourselves for the future. We need to remember the proverb 'As you sow, so shall you reap'!

How should we sow to reap a good harvest?

Well, all the predictions say that there is a huge opportunity for the textile industries to flourish in the upcoming days only if there is a skilled workforce. So there is a great role to play for all the businesses too.

They will need to ensure that they have the right mix of skills in their workforce to keep pace with the changing technology. A study of Salesforce.com shows that 59% of hiring managers believe that AI will impact the types of skills their companies need. Workers will

Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

more than likely need to update their skills, not just once but many times throughout their careers.

 Well, all the predictions say that there is a huge opportunity for the textile industries to flourish in the upcoming days only if there is a skilled workforce. So there is a great role to play for all the businesses too.

They will need to ensure that they have the right mix of skills in their workforce to keep pace with the changing technology.

Ebony Frelix, Executive Vice President and Chief Philanthropy Officer focuses on upskilling the workers. At Dreamforce,18 she

said, businesses and governments need to share responsibility for upskilling workers. It will be important to create nontraditional pathways for building skills.

Tom Puthiyamadam, Global Digital Services Leader with PwC’s Advisory practice, said, “Think about it as a sort of ‘no-man-or-woman-left-behind’ policy,” “Don’t just hire new talent — because if you do not create an internal environment where they can thrive, they’ll fail. Instead, build a holistic solution.”

Companies need to be thinking about enabling their employees to both codes in new coding languages, but also to change their mix of soft skills.

Zvika Krieger, Head of Technology Policy and Partnerships, Member of the Executive Committee, World Economic Forum, said, “As AI begins to impact the workforce and automation replaces some existing skills, we’re seeing an increased need for emotional intelligence, creativity, and critical thinking, for instance.”

So, it can be said that focus on upskilling workers and a culture of continuous learning can save the upcoming days.

Supreme Court permits Accords to stay more 281 days Desk Report

After hearing an appeal on 19 May, Appellate Division of Supreme Court has given more 281 days to Accord, when a Memorandum of Understanding was signed between Accord and Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) in this regard.

The BGMEA will form a cell in the Accord and they will jointly inspect and ensure safety and security of garments factories and workers in Bangladesh, the apex court said.

Earlier, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, a platform of European apparel

18

buyers to improve safety standards in the apparel sector, sought an extension of 281 days from May 8 to complete remediation process in the apparel sector.

Following the Rana Plaza building collapse in April 24, 2013, EU retailers formed the Accord to improve workplace safety in Bangladesh.

According to the Accord’s statistics, the initiative has so far inspected more than 1,600 factories and completed over 94 percent of remediation works in the units.

The tenure of the platform ended in May, 2018 and the government allowed it a six-month transition

period.

The extended period of the platform ended on November 30 last year and the High Court instructed the government not to extend the timeframe of Accord any more.

Later, on January 21 this year, Supreme Court granted four weeks of additional time (up to February 18) to the Accord to continue the ongoing discussions with Bangladesh government and BGMEA over supports for the national body, Remediation Coordination Cell, and transition of Accord works to RCC.

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Volume 12, Issue 06

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ITMA at a glance

ITMA 2019 in Barcelona, Spain Rahbar Hossain ITMA is the largest textile machinery exhibition in the world takes place every 4 years. ‘Innovating the World of Textiles’ is the theme for the 18th edition of ITMA where the textile and garment industries converge to explore fresh ideas using innovative products and designs.

ITMA 2019 at a glance • Date & place: 20-26 June 2019, Fira De Barcelona, Gran Via, Spain • 1,700+ original manufacturers from 45 countries exhibiting their products, solutions, and ideas • Gross exhibition area of 220,000 square meters • Expected visitors 120,000 from 147 countries • 19 exhibit sectors, integrated solutions for the entire value chain When ITMA was last held in Barcelona in 2015, visitor-ship exceeded 123,000 from 147 countries. 1691 exhibitors from 46 countries exhibited and net exhibition space was 108,268 sqm which is double this year.

Why should you participate?

It is where you have the opportunity to collaborate with like-minded business professionals so your business can grow and partnerships can evolve. If you do not get to ITMA Spain in 2019 it will be 2023 before you have another opportunity to glean knowledge from the entire key

20

textile and garment manufacturers.

You will be exposed to first class networking opportunities where you can meet the key decision makers and influential people in the textile and garment industry. The industry experts converge to ITMA so they can share their experiences and gain from the experiences of others.

You will get global insights on trends that are going to be happening in the textile and garment industries.

What’s new at ITMA 2019?

The Innovation Lab was recently launched for the 2019 edition of ITMA to emphasize the innovation theme.

The Innovation Lab concept features:

promote outstanding industry related research” in two categories — Industry Excellence and Research & Innovation Excellence.

“By launching the ITMA Innovation Lab feature, we hope to better drive industry focus on the important message of technological innovation and cultivate an inventive spirit,” said Charles Beauduin, Chairman of ITMA Services.

Textile and garment manufacturing exhibit sectors include: • Nonwovens • Fibers, yarns and fabrics Spinning, winding, testing and • software

• A Research and Innovation (R&I) Pavilion showcasing the research and development work of 27 participating organizations to encourage collaboration between industry and academia;

• Weaving

• ITMA Speakers Platform where participating R&I institutes can present research projects and developments;

• Colorants and chemicals

• Knitting, embroidery and braiding • Garment making • Finishing, testing, logistics, recycling, equipment for plant ops and services • Printing • Research and innovation

• Innovation Video Showcase featuring selected videos about the exhibits to be shown at the Speakers Platform.

• ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, which was created in 2015 to “recognize the collaborative efforts by the global textile industry to advance business sustainability through innovative solutions, and

Owned by The European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers (CEMATEX), the 2019 show is organized by Brussels-based ITMA Services. The venue has been designed by the Japanese architect Toyo Ito and is known for its functionality and sustainable features including a large rooftop photovoltaic installation.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

The Italian companies which exhibit in Barcelona are distributed as follows among the different branches: 22% in the spinning/ winding section, 10% in weaving, 9% in knitting/hosiery, 35% in finishing/ printing and 24% in the other business areas planned for the show.

Europe extra EU 15%

Asia 46%

EU 21%

Africa 5% North America 7%

Latin America 6%

Italian textile machines get ready for ITMA 2019 Desk Report ITMA is traditionally the showcase in which the manufacturers of textile machines have the opportunity to display their up-to-date innovations. The presence of the Italian exhibitors at ITMA Barcelona (June 20-26) is remarkable, representing the first Country in terms of exhibitors number and occupied surface.

Italian textile machinery exports by areas –2018

Italian textile machinery industry will be the protagonist with a large number of participants in the most important international showcase for textile machines. This confirms the vitality of our sector, in terms of quality and technological level that we know how to express�.

During ACIMIT press conference

Italian textile machinery exports to main countries - 2018 (Million Euro, y/y change)*

Indeed the Italian exhibitors amount to around 360 companies, with an occupied exhibition area of 30,000 square meters.

The Italian companies which exhibit in Barcelona are distributed as follows among the different branches: 22% in the spinning/ winding section, 10% in weaving, 9% in knitting/hosiery, 35% in finishing/printing and 24% in the other business areas planned for the show.

China

357 (0%) 208 (+8%)

Turkey India

121 (-13%)

USA

95 (-2%)

Bangladesh

88 (-15%)

Pakistan

86 (-1%)

Germany

85 (-10%)

Vietnam

Alessandro Zucchi, president of ACIMIT said, "Once again the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

at ITMA (June 21) the Association will award two of the 40 member companies that will be joined the Sustainable Technologies project.

The Italian Green Label Award aims to reward those companies that have been more virtuous over the past years, reducing the carbon dioxide emitted by their machines to a greater extent.

Volume 12, Issue 06

63 (+73%)

Egypt

45 (+79%)

France

43 (+26%)

21

Cover Plus

Introducing ‘Industry 4.0’ to Bangladesh Arvi Rahman

Industry 4.0 will lead to virtualization and modularization of production process and supply chain, achieving flexibility and personalization of production based on CPS (cyber physical system) and IoT (internet of things) together with ERP, MES, PLM, SCM and other software system.

22

Industry 4.0 promotes the use of great information, IOT and Artificial Intelligence (AI) as one. This revolution gives an idea of an environment where

smart machines can not only enable automation of production lines, but can interact with each other, while analyzing and understanding a specific level of

1 10 0 00 10 01 11 00 01 00 00 01 10 01 00 100 01 010 1 00 0 0 10 1

2011 Hanover Messe put forward the ‘Industry 4.0’ concept for the first time and ‘Industry 4.0’ roadmap was released in 2013.

It is characterized: Horizontal integration across value networks, end-to-end digital integration across the entire value chain and vertical integration and networked production systems.

Industry 4.0

Industry 3.0 Interconnection of

Industry 2.0 Industry 1.0 Mechanical production Steam and water power Weaving loom

1784

techonology

Frist assembly line Mass production Electricity Discovery of oil and Production of petrol 1870

Computer and IT

Mass connectivity

Micro circuits and

Smart devices

processors

Computers in even

Autiomated production

the smallest devices

Global supply chains

Real-time data

1969

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Today

Volume 12, Issue 06

Innovation in Textile Chemicals for a Sustainable society

Surface Science is our core technology having 77 years history in chemicals from Japan

JB CHEM-BRIDGE LTD. Dhaka Liaison Office Ahmed Tower 23rd Floor (West Side) 28 & 30 Kamal Ataturk Avenue Banani, Dhaka-1213, Bangladesh Tel : +88-02-9821187 Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Head Office: House-24, Road-09, Sector-04 Uttara, Dhaka-1230 Contact: +8801713273036 Email: khokon.jbchembridge@gmail.com 23

Cover Plus

Advance human-machine interference

Big Data

Main Pilars of Industry 4.0

Smart Sensor

Digital to Real Life

production and understanding the minimum human being. Although this revolution is primarily considered to affect most of the manufacturing industry, these innovations will affect retailers, operation companies as well as service providers.

Industry 4.0 and Bangladesh garments industry The Annual Survey of the Industries of Bangladesh reveals that the manufacturing is dominated by having 96.5% of the industry establishments and 86% of them contain the apparel products. There are more than about 5000 garment factories, almost 4.4 million people are working. According to the US Green Building Council (USGBC), there are 67 Leadership in Eergy and Environmental Design (LEED)

Internet of things

Data Analysis

Augnented Reality (AR)

green factories in the RMG sector in Bangladesh. Among them, 13 is LEED Platinum rated, when more than 280 factories are registered with USGBC for LEED certification.

“Garments will be the worst sufferer of Industry 4.0 revolution as there is a possibility of 27 lakh or 60 percent of jobs being lost,” said Anir Chowdhury, Policy Adviser of the a2i project.

Table 1: Challenges of Industry 4.0 application in Bangladesh textile and apparel. An interview result summarey

Lack of government support

Lack of Poor knowledge Infrastructure

Availability of cheaper labor

Expensive installation of technology

9/10

7/10

10/10

10/10

10/10

Not only these issue, sudden change in new industrial revolution can hit hard in many terms as in different areas. For applying new revolution steps by steps footprint is necessary or it only create a chaos. Bangladesh still couldn’t fully absorb the third industrial revolution.

Participants from 10 interviews have given similar insights that there are very few applications or applications of automation

85% increase in forcase accuracy 20-50% reduction in inventory cost

Benefits of Industry 4.0

¥ € $

20-50% increase in speed to market 10-20% decrease in cost to market 3-2% increase in overall productivity

Figure 1: Beneficial result from Lectra.

24

in important manufacturing industries related to RMG. Therefore, the existence of industrial 4.0 and its establishment level has not yet been proved in Bangladesh. Some themes have been allocated in relation to the issues related to the implementation of the industries in Bangladesh. The themes are shown in the table-1 based on the results of the interview.

“Fourth industrial revolution transformation is rapid and variable economy, business and industry, and production, management and governance,” said Abul Kasem Khan, President of the Dhaka Chamber of Commerce & Industry.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Cover Plus

Job losses Organizational structure and leadership New requirements for training Lack of qualified personnel concerns regarding artificial intlligence Manufacturing relocation

Financial Time and manner investment Changing business module Competition Dependencies

Technical Integration Cyber attacks Data handling

Consumption Lot size one

Infrastructure Legal Aspects

RISK

Figure 2: Risks of sudden industrial revolution.

So, it’s necessary to think about industry 4.0 to surviving in the industry and to escape from monopoly business applying.

“We do not have only bad news of job losses due to the fourth industrial revolution. We also have some good news,” said Syed

Tamjidur Rahman, Vice-President of the BCFIR ( Bangladesh Center for Fourth Industrial Revolution).

Lectra is a technology company who applied fourth industrial revolution they named Apparel 4.0 and seen these results: A big group of executives (43%)

target only cost reduction with the help of Industry 4.0, while other managers want to have more sales with new products (32%) or more sales with existing products (10%).

The objective is to achieve more sales and cost reduction is a wish of 14% of the managers.

IOT INTERNET OF THINGS

Mass production With more connected machinery, big profits from the company will be reduced due to less production costs

Made to measure Entreprise-wide transparency gives companies the flexibility to adjust their supply chain mechanism according to individual needs

Mass personalization For IoT company, it can create personalized products at large volumes while being profitable

Agile production Being able to produce multiple small-volume series, companies can supply different types of styles to their customers

Figure 3: Benefits of Apparel 4.0.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

25

Power & Energy

To p S t o r y

Where is our energy future heading?

The energy security Bangladesh will soon be hit with many challenges as local 105 wells drilling and work- over plan have not progressed in recent years.

AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary, Additional Secretary (R&D), DCCI With the endeavor of the gas tariff hike, Petrobangla and its subsidiary companies appeared at a public hearing at BERC due to import plan of 1000 mmcfd LNG in 2019. A series of hearing demanding tariff hike was held to meet the growing need for gas and cost in Bangladesh.

The hike proposal was strongly opposed by different industry associations, chambers, and political parties. A public hearing was held within seven months of last round of hearing on the same issue though it is a breach of BERC policy. Currently, nationwide gas demand is 3736 mmcfd and supply around 2754mmcfd and the gap is widening. Hereafter, some observations are stated on overall gas tariff rise, exploration and energy security state.

It is an irony that all distribution companies have brought the same demand tariff though unjustified for all. The tariff demand of Distribution Company stated LNG import is at $10 per mmbtu with unit import price estimated TK 38.89 including import vat, financing, bank and re-gasification charges whereas technical committee found it $9 and revised downward TK 33.86 per unit with distribution margin TK. 0.5562.

It is worth mentioning that tariff rise was insignificant against 381mmcfd LNG import last year due to a national election.

Local Exploration Company costs around TK 0.90 whereas IOC does TK 2.90 for per unit natural gas exploration. Against tariff hike proposal, the technical committee of BERC assesses and identifies the blended price of per unit gas supply would be TK 14.99 using weighted average formula

26

Figure 1: Petrobangla signed deal for 15 years with Qatar 10 years with Oman for LNG import but the tariff of those agreements is undisclosed.

The tariff demand of Distribution Company stated LNG import is at $10 per mmbtu with unit import price estimated TK 38.89 including import vat, financing, bank and re-gasification charges whereas technical committee found it $9 and revised downward TK 33.86 per unit with distribution margin TK. 0.5562. It is worth mentioning that tariff rise was insignificant against 381mmcfd LNG import last year due to a national election. excluding other overheads. The Technical committee of BERC did not seem neutral in tariff assessment as excluded current

energy scenario of the global market and other relevant factors.

All distribution companies claimed extreme tariff rise in all categories like 132% for industry, 96% for Captive power, 211% for power producers, 208% for fertilizer producers, 107% for tea estate, 50% for CNG user and 80% for domestic use which result into average 103% tariff, the highest ever in the gas tariff hike record in Bangladesh and cumulative impact would be 436% for major manufacturing sectors as almost all manufacturing industries require grid power supply, Captive power and grid natural gas. As a whole, the tariff hike is unfriendly

Supply around 2754mmcfd

Nationwide gas demand is 3736 mmcfd Figure 2: Current gap between nationwide gas demand and supply.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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Volume 12, Issue 06

27

Power & Energy

To p S t o r y

for all industries. Alongside, 208% tariff hike will be another blow for the agriculture sector and cost-of-living.

Comparing the evaluation of technical committee and proposal of distribution companies, both of them seem unrealistic and elevated as the import price is on perception while in reality import price was discussed around $6$7 in 2017. And, Gas and other commodities price indices in commodity markets across the world looked downward.

The proposed tariff from transmission and distribution companies can be covered as a profit scenario of past years was healthy however tariff rise demand looks inappropriate.

GTCL claims TK 0.4632 charge per unit and may escalate as GTCL is to extend their grid line across the country to connect all distribution companies. Petrobangla needs to invest in grid infrastructure and it sounds unscrupulous putting cost incidence on people since the company has limited fiscal strength for its capital expenditure of infrastructure works.

Petrobangla signed deal for 15 years with Qatar 10 years with Oman for LNG import but the tariff of those agreements is undisclosed. Since import price was settled with Qatar and Oman then the estimated import price of distribution companies in public hearing are pointless and these sale and purchase agreements need to be open and public.

International price is downward and spot market purchase backed LNG sourcing could be an option.

Recently, the spot price of LNG supply to Asia dropped but we attempt a deal at a high price and

international and local deal price anomaly is to be adjusted. Royal Dutch Shell has the outlook of Growth in LNG use in 2018 with global demand growth to 319 million tones and higher demand about 384 million tones including Asia in the next few years.

Our legacy of gas is largely dependent on IOCs. Chevron, the largest IOC explorer, remarked that supply is declining in Bibiyana and Santos, Kris and Cairns have already left Bangladesh treating our gas exploration unfeasible.

Chevron also sold the business to a Chinese company expressing no further interest for new exploration.

The energy security Bangladesh will soon be hit with many challenges as local 105 wells drilling and work- over plan have not progressed in recent years. On the other hand, Gazprom charges relatively high at local wells charging $160 million per drilling in on-shore whereas Azberizian Company demands $33 Million though Gazprom was allocated five blocs at off and on-shore for seismic survey and drilling.

Without international tender, allocation of blocs to few IOCs may risk the energy sector and tariff demanded by IOCs is around USD6-8 per mmbtu due to a limited gas reserve which leads to no hope of gas exploration and reserve improvement. In this state, the multi-client survey is critical which has no progress till now.

The industry is one of the largest consumers of Gas and estimated demand was 542 mmcfd in 2016 and may be 3600 mmcfd in 2041 as industry to GDP ratio is growing and demand may reach 10000 mmcfd. Different studies show Gas

The industry is one of the largest consumers of Gas and estimated demand was 542 mmcfd in 2016 and may be 3600 mmcfd in 2041 as industry to GDP ratio is growing and demand may reach 10000 mmcfd. Different studies show Gas prices should be hiked reasonably. 10% hike in energy price will lead to a 1% drop in the export value from Bangladesh as production cost goes up. Accordingly, our export earnings may be hit by 13% value loss considering the industry tariff hike and energy intensive export earnings may be reduced to $27 billion based on current export earning with other cascading impacts.

prices should be hiked reasonably.

10% hike in energy price will lead to a 1% drop in the export value from Bangladesh as production cost goes up. Accordingly, our export earnings may be hit by 13% value loss considering the industry tariff hike and energy intensive export earnings may be

211%

96%

132%

208%

107%

50%

80%

for power producers

for Captive power

for industry

for fertilizer producers

for tea estate

for CNG user

for domestic use

figure 1: Proposed gas price hike-the highest ever done going to hit the country badly if implemented.

28

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Power & Energy

reduced to $27 billion based on current export earning with other cascading impacts.

Following issues and recommendations are pertinent to the energy sector and its stakeholders’ development: • There have been six rounds of gas tariff hike during the last decade but against that supply and network had no significant improvement. LNG is yet to reach to Sylhet and other regions but the initiative is made in gas tariff rise. It seems tariff hike is the discretion of any Distribution Company.

• The power purchase agreements of Government with IPPs held in early 2009 needs to be revised as these contracts seem suicidal considering current economic state and gas supply.

• Our national current account balance is running negative due to escalating LNG import cost.

We are required to have some land-based LNG terminals to rationalize LNG management cost. Private sector LNG policy states flexible policy for awarding LNG import license but this needs to be strictly dealt as LNG business is highly sensitive, therefore, business without a 10-15-year track record of power sector business, technical soundness in private sector should not be awarded.

• The 7th five-year plan stated 12.3 TCF proven gas reserve in Bangladesh which diminishes by 2023 based on the current trend and Petrobangla estimates local gas supply will be zero by 2041.

If current stagnation continues, the import will be the main source and Petrobangla has to address this concern.

• The recent tariff hike endeavor is apparently irrational until import happens. The government should compensate for the additional cost in LNG import instead of subsidizing loss incurring SOEs for the public

Bangladesh Textile Today |

welfare similarly utility service gas too which is very pressing.

• River routes can be used for LNG and LPG vessels reach out in different districts for low price accordingly river port infrastructure is to be built. Gas tariff hike and limited industrial connections are making Billion Dollar local manufacturing investment stagnant and left many Textile, Cement and Iron steel re-rolling businesses bankrupt.

• Off-shore gas needs to be extracted and bidding initiatives are urgently needed. If off-shore exploration and supply seem financially impracticable, gas may be sold and cross-border gas import can be considered.

Since financing is crucial, Petrobangla and all distribution and exploration companies can be enlisted in the capital market to remain financially solvent.

To improve energy state, longterm energy security and sourcing master plan based on diverse fuel mix need to be formulated otherwise market competitiveness of the export industry and economic expansion remain unsafe.

Energy is a critical enabler for industrialization led economic trajectory. Since slimming energy supply and growing demand challenge industrialization and inclusive economic growth, we need to overcome and remain competitive in attracting industrial investment to realize all transformational economic visions.

Author AKM Asaduzzaman Patwary Additional Secretary (R&D), DCCI.

Volume 12, Issue 06

29

J u t e To d a y

Jute-Tin, another sustainable innovation by Dr. Mubarak Md Zahirul Hoque Bangladesh Jute sector had profound glory in Bangladesh economy. This ‘golden fiber’ can regain its image as jutediversification has been broadening new prospect of jute.

‘Jute-Tin’ is one of the reviving efforts from Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan. Instead of using Lead (Pb) and Zinc (Zn), this long-lasting jute made tin is made from: • jute hessian • resin • coupling agent

Figure: Instead of using Lead (Pb) and Zinc (Zn), this long-lasting jute made tin is a revolutionary alternative.

• some hardener

solve the plastic problem.

Ingredients of jute tin

Jute hessian

Resin

Lead (Pb) and Zinc (Zn) both have to be imported. Thus, it can be an economical option for Tin production. Metallic tin becomes rusty in a few years. Jute made tin is more durable and stronger than that of metallic tin. Even its production process will be less time consuming and it hardly needs any other energy like gas or electricity. It can withstand rust for 100 years. Saline resistance property will ensure durable protection for the coastal area.

Bangladeshi scientist Dr. Mubarak Ahmad Khan, father of ‘Jute poly bag’ invented this ‘Jute-Tin’ and said, “It is sound-proof, heat-proof.

In term of currency, almost all raw materials of metal sheet cost foreign currency. Home-made jute can save those and it is more cost-effective”.

He is presently working as

30

Coupling agent

Some hardener

scientific advisor of Bangladesh Jute Mills Corporation (BJMC) and former Chief Scientific Officer of Bangladesh Atomic Energy Commission.

The period between 1972 and 1975 was the golden era of jute. But jute goods business is not satisfactory for the country. The data provided

by Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) shows that exports of jute and jute goods fell by 19.99% in the eleven months (July-May) of the 2018-19 financial year. Jute, the country’s third largest forex earner, is estimated to involve around 10 million people. The country produces around 1.45 million tonnes of raw jute annually.

However, new products from jute and a global campaign against plastic have rekindled the hope of a comeback for the ‘golden fiber’.

People are optimistic that jute will

It was not until after 1996 that the government took steps to diversify jute products and started opening new mills. Bangladesh enacted the Mandatory Jute Packaging Act 2010, enforced in January 2014, making the use of jute packaging compulsory for 19 types of products.

The government initiatives have encouraged entrepreneurs to come up with diversified jute products. Currently, Bangladesh is also exporting ‘Patpata Paio’ made from jute’s leaf (an alternative to tea) to Germany. It will be available in the local market very soon, BJMC’s Karim says.

The latest innovation, ‘biodegradable Jute-Tin’ has the prospect of being the alternative of plastic, wood, metallic tin, and cement. Stakeholders’ support is necessary for commercial bulk production of this potential jute made product.

This sustainable product diversification will accelerate the economic growth Dr. Mubarak of Bangladesh.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

ITMA 2019 will show real Industry 4.0 solutions The future of the textile industry is more and more determined by Industry 4.0. Industry 4.0 has many dimensions and possible fields of application. In three of them (Smart Services, Operations and Factory), key solutions are provided by the machinery industry. The other ones from smart textile products, marketing and sales, employees up to strategy and organization are specific know-how issues for textile mills.

At ITMA 2015 in Milan, Industry 4.0 was not a big issue. One could at least speak of first steps towards Industry 4.0. But in Barcelona, we will already see real Industry 4.0 solutions.

Considering the upcoming ITMA, Nicolai Strauch, press officer of the VDMA Textile Machinery Association, Germany, spoke to experts of VDMA member companies about their products and services with regard to digitization and Industry 4.0.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

ITMA Preview

Interview partners were: Jochen Adler CTO, Oerlikon Manmade Fibers

Rebekka Dilo Assistant to the Management Oskar Dilo Maschinenfabrik

Klaus Heinrichs Vice President Monforts Textilmaschinen

Dr. Janpeter Horn CEO, Herzog

Leonhard Kemnitzer Head of Marketing Baumüller Nürnberg

Steffen Müller-Probandt Managing Partner Dienes Apparatebau

Marcus Ott CEO, Halo electronic

Jochen Stillger Head of Sales, Thies

Nicolai Strauch: Jochen Adler, what can your customers expect ‘digitally’ from Oerlikon?

us to build bridges between data and material flows and between the virtual and real worlds.

Adler: I would say the digital refinement of our machines and production systems for manufacturing yarns, fibers, nonwovens along the textile value chain. We want to further optimize the efficiency of the systems and the quality of the end products with digital solutions.

Nicolai Strauch: And what aspects of all this can visitors already see at the ITMA in Barcelona?

For this, we are deploying the know-how of our newly-integrated partner AC-Automation – which specializes in large-scale systems automation, transport, packaging and warehouse logistics and end product automated quality control.

We combine this with our process competencies and digital data handling using our Plant Operation Center (POC). This has created Industry 4.0 solutions for our customers – with integrated storage and communication capabilities, wireless sensors, embedded actuators and intelligent software systems. In turn, this allows

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Adler: At our trade fair stand we will be offering our visitors a digital experience that allows them to intensely discover and understand our machines, systems, components and services.

Here, we will be deploying playful solutions to present the topic of artificial intelligence. We will be taking our 360-degree and augmented-reality applications as well as our virtual showroom with us, to allow visitors to experience complex systems live in 3D. The ‘digital factory’ is already in part becoming a reality in conjunction with our machine exhibits.

Nicolai Strauch: Müller-Probandt, company Dienes specialises in machine components for the manmade fiber production as well as textile special applications.

Volume 12, Issue 06

One focus is pilot installations for research. How is Industry 4.0 touching this application?

Müller-Probandt: One key product in our portfolio is a modular spinning system which allows customised solutions, starting from thread run studies to complete pilot installations.

Each unit has its own PLC (Programmable Logic Controller), which allows to run DIENES units in foreign lines or to integrate foreign units in a DIENES line.

The units can be operated with an interface directly or over the ethernet from an upper control system.

Nicolai Strauch: What are the advantages for customers e.g. research institutes or R&D departments?

Müller-Probandt: Our modular system includes a line overview, which rearranges itself almost automatically for different operation modes in alternative machine sequences. The detailed process representation allows the customer to monitor directly the effect for all changes of parameters.

If a good yarn could be realized it is possible to backtrack the journey of this yarn through the process.

The parameters can be modified with mobile devices, like a pad or a mobile phone. All these functionalities allow the research institutes and industry to reduce the cost of investments and to operate fast and flexibly in the development of new products, which additionally save costs and time.

Nicolai Strauch: Let’s move forward in the textile chain. Rebekka Dilo, how can Industry 4.0 help customers in the nonwovens industry to increase efficiency and so to decrease costs?

Dilo: Our new operator system assists the operators through intelligent sensors and automatized modes allowing a reduction of workforce at nonwoven lines. At a line restart, the newly

33

Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

ITMA Preview

formed web may wrap around rollers in the card and crosslapper.

Nicolai Strauch: Can you quantify the benefit?

The new starting mode automatically prefills the line and forms a stable start nonwoven, minimizing the risk of wrappings.

Dr. Horn: No formation of software teams outside machines.

New applications could be created easily.

No additional software.

Nicolai Strauch: What is the effect of this?

Dilo: As a result, the line starts smoothly with minimal manual intervention. Moreover, an energy-saving technology helps to decrease costs at fibers transport, one of the main energy consumers in needling lines.

Figure: Dr. Janpeter Horn, CEO, Herzog.

Instead of operating the ventilators for the fiber-air transport at maximum frequency, the system controls the ventilator speed according to the actual throughput and also gives warnings before blockages can occur.

Nicolai Strauch: What is really new at this solution?

Dr. Horn: It is the result of a threeyear research project. Various innovations have been implemented: The use of cloud technologies on the shop floor; open source technologies for inexpensive apps; no internet connection is necessary. The main advantage, however, is the “oneclick” installation of apps which have been applicable only for smartphones and tablets. The apps are installed in a so-called box outside the machines.



The technology, therefore, targets Eco sensitive nonwoven producers, who also want to increase their line availability.

This targets especially producers working with fiber blends and several bale openers respectively.

Nicolai Strauch: Dr. Horn, Herzog is producing braiding machines.

What is your latest I4.0 product and what is your approach?

Dr. Horn: An additional module for Herzog machines, an appbox, with which Industry 4.0 scenarios can be realized without employing software teams or starting big Industry 4.0 projects.

This technology is an app-based one. Apps can be downloaded and installed easily.

Nicolai Strauch: How do customers benefit from this?

Dr. Horn: The customer can easily access the data of Herzog machines, e.g. on a PLC (Programmable Logic Controller).

The data can be visualized on

34

Monforts machines now feature a “digital twin” that will be presented to the textile industry for the first time ever at ITMA in Barcelona.

With the help of advanced sensor technology, all technical data are mapped in the cloud virtually and in real time.

Nicolai Strauch: The last steps in the textile chain is finishing. Klaus Heinrichs, what will Monforts present at ITMA? Heinrichs: Thanks to a support app for communication and an app for operating Monforts systems, Monforts machines now feature a “digital twin” that will be presented to the textile industry for the first time ever at ITMA in Barcelona.

dashboards created by the customer on terminals or others.

The data can be processed, e.g. by creating key figures, alarms or analyzation.

Alarms and information could be transferred by e-mail, messengers.

Furthermore, the data can be linked to order from pps systems or transferred to the machines – if the customer decides to go this way.

With the help of advanced sensor technology, all technical data are mapped in the cloud virtually and in real time.

The data in the cloud indicate the current state of the system with its respective specifications and can map the entire production process, enabling targeted analysis and controlled planning and production: Insights harnessed from data analyses can be used to optimize

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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Te c h n o l o g y To d a y

the actual production process.

Nicolai Strauch: What is new about your solution/technology?

Heinrichs: The status overview in real-time improves machine availability while minimizing downtime considerably.

Potential sources of error can be anticipated and eliminated. The digital twin provides information on individual wear parts of a system, such as converters or gears, for example. In the future operators will be able to see how long a wearing part will last and when it has to be maintained or replaced ahead of time.

Direct access to the integrated Monforts web shop allows users to order wearing and spare parts at the press of the button when they are needed, virtually preventing machine downtime.

On request, Monforts can monitor machine availability and proactively approach customers if action is required. Data is only ever called from the cloud provided customers have agreed, requiring their consent in the interest of data security.

Nicolai Strauch: What advantages does this offer for your clients?

Heinrichs: With the support app, the customer can contact Monforts service virtually 24 hours a day or at an arranged time via smartphone or tablet. Support is given right on site via a video connection.

The Monforts service specialist can point out individual system parts on the customer’s smartphone using a mouse cursor and assist users in troubleshooting or operating the machine on site.

Documents, such as machine documentation, can also be shown in real-time on the smartphone.

Data can be used to analyze a system’s energy requirements. For example, machine operation can be optimized for production to go into full operation when electricity costs are at their lowest.

Nicolai Strauch: Let’s stay in the

36

ITMA Preview

finishing process. Mr. Stillger, the company Thies specializes in dyeing technology. What is your latest I4.0 product?

Stillger: For the ITMA 2019 we offer a new version of our maintenance system, which, among others, was extended by the condition monitoring module.

It is an automated planning, execution and monitoring software for inspection, service and routine maintenance, which not only facilitates the procurement of

 With the support app, the customer can contact Monforts service virtually 24 hours a day or at an arranged time via smartphone or tablet. Support is given right on site via a video connection.

The Monforts service specialist can point out individual system parts on the customer’s smartphone using a mouse cursor and assist users in troubleshooting or operating the machine on site. spare parts, but also provides the corresponding technical documentation digitally.

At the same time, we are laying the foundation for future machinespecific and customized machinebased learning from the history data.

In addition, a new controller generation will be offered together with one of our control suppliers, which will be open for I4.0 applications and at the

same time can be connected to the corresponding MES (Manufacturing Execution System).

Strauch: What specific benefit does a customer get from your solution/technology?

Stillger: Optimization of production processes and production safety through completely transparent planning, implementation, and monitoring tools. In the medium term, a significant reduction in process and maintenance time is achieved.

There will be a reduction in the failure rate and the time to fix failures. All in all, a reduction in maintenance costs due to a purposefully controlled spare parts inventory and a prioritized and more efficient maintenance is expected.

Strauch: Can you prove this with some facts and figures?

Stillger: Customers will achieve higher machine efficiency through intelligent maintenance.

Depending on the individual situation in the dye house, optimization of the processes may reduce the costs by 20 to 50%.

Successful energy management (managing energy allocation) can lead to an additional 7% to 10% reduction in costs.

Strauch: The VDMA supports the mechanical and plant engineering industry in the development of OPC/ UA Companion Specifications. OPC/ UA is an open interface standard that defines the mechanisms of cooperation in the industrial environment. What advantages does OPC/UA provide with regard to your solution/technology?

Stillger: The OPC / UA interface enables standardized data transfer.

A significant improvement in data quality is achieved. The new technology introduces customerspecific and system-specific monitoring of the functioning of the machine. Smarter sensors are used for process monitoring.

Forward-looking history data are collected for the configuration of self-optimizing AI processes.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

ITMA Preview

Strauch: Marcus Ott, your company Halo electronics from Austria develops Enterprise-Resource-Planning (ERP) systems for the textile industry. Please, tell us more about your company.

Ott: We provide custom-tailored IT solutions that offer textile industry customers the perfect level of data transparency - from fiber to finished product. Direct communication between man and machine not only enables this consistently transparent presentation of all relevant data, but also gives employees flexible and, most importantly, mobile access to it. All important information is available on the handheld device while "on the go".

Strauch: How is the usability of your solution? Can you quantify the benefits of the product?

Ott: The intuitive software relies on language-independent icons instead of text and can, therefore, be used without training in any work environment. The resulting cost savings are clear.

The seamless implementation of the software in all relevant production processes up to the point of delivery enables complete consistency and transparency of the data collection, which simplifies optimization processes and gives management vital decision-making information.

For example, the use of our software enables time savings of 45% for the storage and retrieval of products in the warehouse.

Strauch: Leonhard Kemnitzer, Baumßller is a well-known manufacturer of intelligent drive and automation systems as well as software for numerous branches, including textile machinery. One focus is simulation software. What’s actually new?

Kemnitzer: Many simulation tools graphically depict machines and systems as 3D simulations. These standard tools focus on the behavior of the machines under optimal conditions.

Our simulation software starts one step ahead. In the first step, the drives and the mechanical parts are selected for the respective application task in order to then verify the motion profiles of the machine.

Strauch: What advantage does the software offer?

Kemnitzer: Our software is very user-friendly. With classical simulation tools, a large number of different parameters has to be entered. The advantage of our tool is the great simplification of the models without losing their accuracy.

Application engineers can work with ready-made models that are just as accurate from the calculation cycles as they are in other simulation tools. Due to the complete integration in the operating software, the models are automatically parameterized and changes can be carried out very quickly.

The result of the simulation process is a parameter set which can be used in the real application. This saves much time in the engineering process and reduces the time to market.

Strauch: Thank you very much for this Industry 4.0 journey along the textile chain plus supplier. More than 200 VDMA member companies will exhibit at the ITMA end of June. We are eagerly looking forward to a fantastic and successful ITMA in Barcelona.

S p i n n i n g To d a y

Background of USA vs China trade war and its impact on world cotton trade Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM Introduction

fund, land, and utilities!

before signing the agreement: -

US President Donald Trump has complained about China's trading practices before he took office in 2016 and the country launched an investigation into Chinese trade policies in 2017. It imposed tariffs on billions of dollars’ worth of Chinese products last year, and Beijing reacted in kind.

In this process, the West allowed many private enterprises who were run through the philosophy of free trade as the norm of doing business to become an artefact of history.

1. Chinese Cyber Espionage that is hacking private, industrial and military information.

After months of conflicts, both countries agreed to pause new trade tariffs in December to allow talks. The expectation had grown over the scene of a deal, but that washed-out, and now the US has more than doubled tariffs on $200bn (£153.7bn) worth of Chinese products. Beijing reacted three days later with tariff hikes on $60bn of US products.

Background of a trade war China started exporting to the US since 1970, subsequently by 1979 became the 2nd biggest exporter and by 1986 became the biggest exporter to the US and is still holding the 1st place. West being the proponent of free trade surprisingly did nothing to the rise of Chinese exports that was backed by undue subsidies given

by Chinese state through the free

38

So, is it the issue of China being the biggest exporter that instigated the conflict or something deeper? Let’s go to Adam Smith (The author of ‘Wealth of Nations’ which is the basis of free trade that western world promotes) and try to question whether it contradicts to the theory of free trade.

The heavily subsidized Chinese exports do not reflect the true cost and it had been driving out cost competitive domestic production or other countries excess to export goods to the US. The subsidies are being funnelled to Chinese manufacturers in the form of free fund, land and utility.

With the tariff on to the Chinese subsidized imports, the US has to import goods from other countries at a higher price.

The main reasons why the US has imposed a tariff on Chinese goods are the following which the US wants to negotiate with China

2. Collecting blue print, technology, and trade secrets from joint venture investors in China where Chinese partner has majority share holding.

The Chinese counterpart is using this information to form a local company that is locally own and making the operation of the joint venture company unprofitable in the long run.

3. Currency manipulation that is giving Chinese export undue cost competitiveness and driving competitors out of business 4. Fentanyl or artificial Opium that is used to produce heroin that is produced in China and being illegally exported to other countries that is annihilating thousands of lives.

According to the US, it is a war of ideology to maximize the quality of life of American citizen, freedom of speech, freedom of religion, individual property right and intellectual property right vs. materialistic Chinese communist philosophy. The battle would

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S p i n n i n g To d a y

definitely go on for a while before it can be negotiated between the US and China. Before a deal is made the world economy likely to be profoundly affected.

Impact of the trade war on world cotton trade As a result of the trade conflict between China and the US, world economic growth has been negatively hit and created uncertainty of demand forecast leading to lower demand for cotton.

Fundamentally, the cotton price is set as an interaction of demand and supply. With the advent of information technology and modern financial instruments, technical aspects influence the cotton index to a greater extent.

However, the context before this trade war was quite different than it resulted after the incident.

Eventually, the market went down (By 10 cents) reflecting the revised context after the trade war. And the market is moving with the direction of the trade negotiation, both positively and negatively.

Te x t i l e B a n g l a d e s h

This is resulting in higher market risk (+/- Minimum 10 to 20 cents) and market participants have to encounter the heat.

With the changing context demand for different origins of cotton are getting adjusted.

Chinese spinners replaced the USA with Brazilian that is price competitive and quality is equivalent to M/E and MOT. Higher quality C/A got replaced with Australia and luckily for Australia, their recent rise in basis had the right support through the trade war. Of course, China has increased import of West Africa against Indian cotton due to quality.

Bangladeshi spinners used to source more than 50% cotton from India which historically remained the top source since decades that in 2019 was replaced with West Africa that also has BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) and CmiA (Cotton Made in Africa).

Brazil is also becoming a major source of cotton for Bangladesh due to its competitive price, quality (Contamination Free), and

availability of a large amount of BCI (Better Cotton Initiative) cotton.

Demand for US cotton has reduced in Turkey significantly. The other major importer was China that also reduced sourcing US cotton due to the trade war. If the US produces 22 million bales in the coming season, selling 17 million bales of US cotton is going to be a major challenge in 2019-2020 session unless the basis comes down to a competitive level.

So, demand wise, the US is in a backward position for now. While West Africa and Brazilian cotton are the popular demands for the majority of the spinners that are mostly located in South-East Asia.

On the top of that market volatility arising out of trade war, demands for a higher level of risk management which suit US growth well. Risk management is going to be very important for spinners in the coming months that can be led by weather, draught, currency, oil, BREXIT, middle-east crisis, world economic outlook, etc. Let’s hope for the best.

RMG sector’s contribution to GDP downs by 3% According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), the RMG sector’s contribution to GDP was 11.17% in the fiscal year of 201718. But not long before in the fiscal year of 2013-14, the sector contributed 14.17% in GDP which indicates a decrease by 3%.

In FY 2018, Bangladesh’s total GDP was TK22,504,793 million where RMG sector’s contribution was TK2,513,471 million. Although the overall GDP has increased by 7.86% where the service sector contributed the highest to GDP which was 52.11%.

The downward figure of GDP contribution is alarming news for our economy because this sector contributes 83% of overall export earnings for Bangladesh.

40

Contribution to GDP in %

Pranto Dey

14.17 13.06 12.69

2013-14

2014-15

2015-16

11.27

2016-17

11.17

2017-18

Figure: RMG sector’s contribution to GDP from FY14 to 18.

On the other hand, global brands and buyers cutting prices continuously causing a drastic decrease in the profit margin.

To solve this problem, experts are strongly suggesting to focus on manufacturing valueadded products and new foreign investments. Bangladesh won’t be able to stay long as a strong

competitor in the global market because of its low cost labor advantage.

Manufacturers need to invest more in research and development and on developing technical textiles.

The government should come forward to solve some burning issues like port congestion, infrastructure improvement, etc. to reduce the lead time.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

C o t t o n Wo r l d

Uzbekistan – potential star of the world textile & apparel industry Mehdi Mahbub

Uzbekistan, a country with 448,978 square kilometers area and around 33 million population, is the center of central Asia. The country which has a very colorful rich culture and heritage, also righteously boast for its trading history since it was one of the most important business hubs of the great silk route which connected China with Europe and the Middle East. The region has a long track record of producing world class cotton, silk, and wool.

Currently, about 7,000 various types of enterprises are involved in textile related industries in Uzbekistan. Capacity for production of cotton fiber in the amount of 1.4 million tons has been created, of which about 60 percent is used to meet the needs of domestic textile companies.

One of the policy priorities of Uzbekistan, the world's fifthlargest cotton exporter, is further development of its textile industry.

Annually, the country grows about 3.5 million tons of raw cotton, produces 1.1 million tons of cotton fiber.

Uzbek textile products are exported to more than 55 countries. The main export markets are the CIS countries, primarily Russia, as well as the countries of European Union, Latin America, Korea, China, Bangladesh, India, Singapore, Iran, Israel, the United States and others.

to get its benefits.

experiencing steady growth.

Upon assuming power in 2016, President Shavkat Mirziyoyev began putting in place economic, financial and foreign policy reforms in Uzbekistan. Within a year, world financial and monetary agencies have upgraded sentiments on Uzbekistan.

According to the World Bank estimates, its annual GDP growth surpassed 6%. The World Bank has praised Uzbekistan's rise in Doing Business rankings.

For many years, Uzbekistan Textile Industry has suffered for the embargo on its products due to alleged forced labor. Many international brands have stopped using Uzbek cotton. Thanks to successful dialogue between Uzbek government and International Labor Organization as well as other stakeholders, the issue has been resolved and Uzbekistan has started

In 2018, new markets were developed - Pakistan, Georgia, Croatia, Nigeria and a number of other countries. Russia and the CIS countries are the largest importers of Uzbek textile enterprises.

They account for more than 51% of all deliveries, 21% are exported to South Asia, over 12% to Europe, 8% to the Middle East and Africa.

It is estimated that the export of textile products in 2018 was US$ 1.6 billion which has been

Figure : Uzbek Textile Minister with Mehdi Mahbub.

Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) has been growing in the country due to policy reforms and government initiatives. Foreign investments in the textile industry of Uzbekistan for the last years amounted to $3.1 billion. Over 80% of the foreign investments are coming to South Korea, Turkey, India, Switzerland, Singapore, Britain, and Germany.

Uzbekistan is the sixth largest cotton producer in the world. Its raw cotton exports of around US$ 300 million, accounted for 28% of the country's total textile exports.

Cotton yarn exports at US$ 500 million accounted for 44% of total textile exports.

Total textile exports from Uzbekistan are to the tune of $ 1.11 billion. The Uzbek government has announced plans to reduce the export of raw cotton and increase the processing in the domestic market as local value addition.

Presently more than 150 textile and garment manufacturing facilities are active in Uzbekistan, of which 50 with 100% foreign capital. Textile and garmentknitting enterprises account for 4.6% of the country’s GDP. Due to its abundance of easily available raw materials, moderately educated good number of workforce, attractive energy price, proximity to markets of Russia and Eastern Europe/former Soviet Republics, global textile and readymade garment (RMG) players have been showing positive interest on Uzbekistan which is ready to be the next star of world textile and apparel industry. This is indeed time for Uzbekistan!

Transforming Human Capital

TEXTILE TODAY TRAINING

Apparel Supply Chain Management Certificate achievers of Apparel Supply Chain Management (Batch 2) under FSD Training program of Textile Today Training. Trainer Mohammah Mezbah Uddin Executive Director T&M Sourcing Ltd handed over the Certificates to the trainees.

Textile Fibre, Yarn & Fabric Certificate achievers of Textile Fiber, Yarn & Fabric (Batch 1) under FSD Training program of Textile Today Training.

Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury Director Huetech Yarn Limited handed over the Certificates to the trainees.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 43 to 126

w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

49

RMG Sustainability Council to inspect RMG factories China RMG factories eye joint ventures with Bangladesh

Way of reducing operational costs in textile manufacturing

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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April 2019

June 2019

KNOWLEDGE HERITAGE OF ERCA WITH SINCERE COMMITMENT OF LUMINENT IN BANGLADESH

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Volume 12, Issue 06

Editorial

The sustainable growth path of apparel industry in Bangladesh Engr. Md. Nazmul Hosen, IPE, SUST., Manager-Dept. of Industrial Engineering and Planning, Marma Composite Limited.

The road ahead is quite challenging. Good things do not come cheap. With higher compliance related expenditures, the cost of doing business goes up in the apparel sector. This gives stiff price competition to the entrepreneurs. In such a situation some may opt for reduced production capacity to make up for additional expenditures on compliance requirements. But as the industry aims for apparel exports of USD 50 billion by 2021, production capacity has to increase further and faster.

Indeed, sustainable growth of the industry is a shared responsibility of all parties including manufacturers, buyers, workers, government, civil society, and media.

Entrepreneurs should continue to maintain higher compliance in a sustainable manner. Apparel sector investing so much for safety and technological up-gradation, and government also increased labor wages. In the short run, an increase in labor costs does lead to higher production costs.

are not under the purview of profit-making brands. If that was so then some other competing countries would have been dropped from their sourcing list.

Some companies are seeking to reduce costs further by sourcing from low-cost countries. Southeast

ď„?

However, the issue of technology and its impact on employment has to be thought of seriously. Ethical buying and a fair price are not under the purview of profit-making brands.

If that was so then some other competing countries would have been dropped from their sourcing list.

the global market.

Here will discuss Manpower utilization in this sector, others four points will discuss next article gradually. From experience, some apparel industry is using ManMachine Ratio (MMR) more than standard MMR. Standard MMR is 1:1.9, which is considering now as a benchmark. There is Breakdown of Standard MMR- Management- 15%, Cutting-10% (Fully automated), Sewing-125%, Finishing-20% and Quality-20% all are against running sewing machines of the specific factory.

After visiting some apparel industry I found more than Standard MMR and they are not also close to Standard MMR, figures are 1:3.5, 1:3.23, and 1:2.92, etc. like this. Can you think how much cost is involved with Excess Manpower? It’s a drastic money wastage. The above four points are part of Industrial Engineering tasks except 5 no point.

So if Apparel manufacturers can think and run this department properly and practice the above five points surely this sector will survive and will the best apparel supplier in the global market.

RMG manufacturers have to meet the increased cost of production through higher productivity and moving to high value products and high end markets. Higher productivity will require state of the art technology and skill development. Hardworking Bangladeshi workers are ready to put extra labor to learn technical skills.

Asia and Sub-Saharan regions are under their consideration.

However, the issue of technology and its impact on employment has to be thought of seriously.

Ethical buying and a fair price

5. High Value Products

Author

The mentioned five points are the backbone of this sector for surviving and Keep the position in

Engr. Md. Nazmul Hosen, IPE, SUST., Manager-Dept. of Industrial Engineering and Planning, Marma Composite Limited.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

For better surviving, in this sector, the apparel manufacturers have to think in a different way.

1. Higher Productivity, 2. Wastage Reduction, 3. Proper Manpower Utilization, 4. Skill Manpower Development and

Volume 12, Issue 06

45

Sections under Factory Tales June 2019 Page (43-126) An initiative of Textile Today

June 2019 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 43 to 126

w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

The Team 59

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO

RMG Sustainability Council to inspect RMG factories Training and development can be driving forces of RMG’s better future

Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

Way of reducing operational costs in textile manufacturing

Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator

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LUMINENT D&A MAIL: LUMINENT@LUMINENT-DA.COM HOT LINE: +88024 8950590 CALL: +8801713 485299

On the Cover: This image captured at Snowtex & Advertisement strip showing silicon & textile finishing solution

Page (61-78) U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Page (79-96)

Knit & woven dyeing & finishing

June 2019

Unveiling industry best practices

D e n i m f a b r i c & e ff e c t s June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 79 to 96

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 61 to 78

SN Abdullah Research & Development Sanjoy Kumar Saha Mohammad Nurul Alam Sanaullah Sabuj Engagement & Communication Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing

6 of the best-fitting denim brands Amber Denim and Textile Today jointly launched ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ training Global denim fabric consumption upsurge indicates a bright future for Bangladesh Different coloration techniques for dyeing and printing industry

Revolutionary textile dye process launched

The power of air in textile manufacturing

Global Leader in the Manufacturer of Dyestuffs and Intermediates

Save Energy Ecological Reduce Emission Environmental Friendly

Yeasin Mia Graphic Design Ashraful Alam Cinematographer Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer

On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing dyes & chemical solution

Page (97-114) Unveiling industry best practices

On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing denim indigo solution

Page (115-122)

Apparel accessories & fashion June 2019

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & knitwear June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 115 to 122

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 97 to 114

Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com

New report shows more than 50% of consumers plan to switch to more eco-friendly brands

Being a country of the highest wastage and lower productivity, how do we ask higher price?

“Being a country of the highest wastage and lower productivity, how do we ask higher price?”

On the Cover: Advertisement strip showing Textile machinery & Laboratory equipments

Global brands are racing towards a comprehensive 3D knitting solution

Sportswear: unexplored opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel makers

On the Cover: This image captured at NR Group & Advertisement strip showing excellence in machinery solution

Find your unique positioning and stand head-high...

Major Factory Tales Services are Brand Strategy Making (Identity & Positioning) Best Practice Story Building (Marketing/Branding Story)

Brand Communication- PR Services

Brand Manual Making

(Designing, Publishing & Printing Brand Materials and Websites)

Photography & Videography

(Corporate/Product/Process/Facility)

Mobile : 01775999368, 01775999748 Email: info@factorytalesbd.com Web: www.factorytalesbd.com

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

China RMG factories eye joint ventures with Bangladesh Staff Correspondent US-China trade war and the rising cost lead Chinese RMG factories to search joint venture in Bangladesh.

They are finding Bangladesh as a competitive destination to relocate their units.

Earlier, Chinese textile and garment industry owners have invested in neighboring Vietnam and Cambodia in the last two decades.

Charlie Yee, Vice President, Business Development of Peli BioChem Technology Co. Ltd, said, “We believe Bangladesh has a long and bright future in textile and we are very optimistic because China is moving from this business.”

As uninterrupted electricity is needed for enzyme production, Peli Bio-Chem Technology (Shanghai) Co. Ltd wants to establish their production in Bangladesh after five years when electricity condition will be improved.

Bangladesh is a competitive place compared to China, Vietnam and Cambodia for setting up industries because of lower cost of production, trade privileges granted in major markets such as the EU and China.

They are interested to set up factories in fabrics, garment, printing and dyeing as Bangladesh hasn’t allowed foreign investment in basic apparels, limiting their presence in high-end and valueadded textile and garment items.

A Chinese garment manufacturer, Robert Lok, Managing Director of Merit Tat International Ltd, recently said to a Bangladeshi daily newspaper that he was looking for potential business partner in Bangladesh to make fresh order

Bangladesh Textile Today |

trade war.

 They are interested to set up factories in fabrics, garment, printing and dyeing as Bangladesh hasn’t allowed foreign investment in basic apparels, limiting their presence in high-end and value-added textile and garment items. for his brand. He was part of the Hong Kong delegation.

“I have seen very young and energetic labour force in Bangladesh in the readymade garment sector. Their skill and the quality of work is really world class,” he said.

He believes, “If I manufacture here, the price will be cheaper than in China,” he said, adding that the Chinese garment industry might be affected by the ongoing

Volume 12, Issue 06

Lok plans to make fresh order with potential garment manufacturers in Bangladesh before deciding to relocate his factory.

According to Lok, Merit Tat International has office and owns outlets in New York and Western Europe where have huge population in Bangladesh and it is advantageous for the sector to manage workers.

Moreover, the wage of the workers is lower compared to Vietnam and Cambodia.

Chinese garment makers are impressed with Bangladesh’s garment factories as they have skilled workers and mature management, which will be helpful to relocate their manufacturing plant to Bangladesh.

They are talking to the garment manufacturers in Bangladesh and Bangladeshi counterparts have also shown interest.

However, there is challenge of higher lead time in the garment sector in Bangladesh.

If infrastructures are developed properly then lead time will become lower within short time.

47

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Budget Expectations

RMG makers seek Tk 3 bn emergency fund for struggling factories Staff Correspondent Country’s apparel sector leaders proposed the formation of a Tk 3 bn emergency fund for ensuring safe exit for the small and medium units which are facing struggles.

They also demanded 5% cash incentive worth Tk 11,724 crore a year against readymade garment exports for next five years to remain competitive in the global market saying “RMG manufacturers were facing an uncertain situation due to low prices of products.”

Figure: Rubana Huq, BGMEA President addressed at a pre-budget joint press conference of BGMEA, BKMEA, and BTMA in the capital on 27 May.

According to the finance ministry officials, the garment sector currently gets around Tk 3,000 crore to Tk 3500 crore a year as cash incentives against export.

The leaders also sought initiatives to bring down the bank interest rate to a single digit for all garment factories with immediate effect.

Leaders of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA), Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) and Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) made the demands at a pre-budget press conference in Dhaka 27 May at a city hotel.

“If we consider employment generation, the readymade garment sector needs incentive as the sector is facing a transitional period,” the newly-elected BGMEA President Rubana Huq said.

Mentioning that the manufacturers have been facing continued

48

pressure due to low prices from the buyers and survival of many small factories was at stake she said, “If the government allows 5% cash incentive against the freight on board price of all garment products for the next five years the sector would rebound.”

Apparel exporters get 4 percent cash incentive as an alternative to duty bonds and duty drawbacks, 4 percent for apparel products export for the small and medium industries, 4 percent for export of new textile and garment products and expanding export of textile items to new markets, markets other than the United States, Canada and the European Union, and 2 percent cash incentive for exports of apparel products to EU market in addition to 4 percent cash incentive.

Rubana Huq also demanded export-friendly exchange rate for the export sectors, saying “Competitiveness of the sector would be increased by 6% if exporters received additional Tk 5 for per dollar.”

government to keep the source tax unchanged at the rate of 0.25% and to reduce the corporate tax to 10 percent from the existing 12 percent.

BTMA President Mohammad Ali Khokon demanded 15 percent cash incentive from existing 4 percent for the textile sector.

Core Demands Tk 3 bn emergency fund for ensuring safe exit for the small and medium units 5% cash incentive

T

A X

Keep the source tax unchanged at the rate of 0.25% Reducing the corporate tax to 10% from the existing 12%

Apparel leaders also urged the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

House - 45, Road - 13, Sector - 04 Uttara , Dhaka-1230

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

RSC to inspect RMG factories In order to move away from Accord and Alliance; BGMEA has launched an initiative named RMG Sustainability Council (RSC) Pranto Dey After the tragic incident of Rana Plaza collapse on 24 April 2013, Accord and Alliance were formed for five years in order to inspect the work environment of garments factories in Bangladesh.

Since then they have inspected over 2000 factories and detected various flaws. Accord’s activity in Bangladesh was supposed to be ended in May last year. But it got 281 days on condition through a court order, though it wanted to continue its activities till 2021.

In order to move away from Accord and Alliance; BGMEA has launched an initiative named RMG Sustainability Council (RSC) with a vision to a monitoring work environment in the export-oriented RMG factories in Bangladesh.

It would be a three-party initiative including factory owners, local and international labor organizations, foreign brands and buyers.

Representatives of brand and retailers have also agreed to constitute RSC. Rubana Huq, President of BGMEA, recently said,” We want to establish our own monitoring system. Under RSC, all decisions will be taken on the consensus of garment factory owners, labor organizations and brand representatives. Accord has already given their consent to this initiative and signed an MoU with BGMEA. As per the MoU, it will hand over its responsibilities to

50

Figure: Under the RCC, all decisions will be taken on the consensus of garment factory owners, labor organizations and brand representatives.

RSC before the end of 281 days.”

“During the working period of Accord, BGMEA will establish a unit in Dhaka and it will start monitoring from next month.

Without the consent of the unit of BGMEA, Accord will not be able to cut business relations with any factories. After the passing of 281 days, all accessories of Accord will come under RSC. Factories outside BGMEA and BKMEA will be made visible under RSC. If a factory catches fire, it has a negative impact on the entire RMG sector,” Rubana Huq continued.

RSC is estimated to be constituted within the next three months. It has not been fixed yet that how much funds would be required to run RSC. Letters would be soon sent to brand and donor organizations for collecting funds.

Earlier, Remediation Coordination

RSC at a glance• To be constituted within the next three months • After Accord’s leave, its all accessories will come under RSC • Factories outside BGMEA and BKMEA to be made visible under RSC

Cell (RCC) was established to manage the remediation process for RMG factories but it lacked the competence to take over the responsibility of Accord.

Experts are hoping that RSC would be a transparent and accountable organization which will be able to carry out its duties properly and would be acceptable at both home and abroad.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Way of reducing operational costs in textile manufacturing Meera Mathialagan

The textile industry has a long history dating back to the onset of the Industrial Revolution.

In the Asia Pacific region, the textile industry is booming, accounting for 46% of the global manufacturing market.

The large market share was the result of a strong presence of fabrics, apparel manufacturing and home furnishing facilities available in the region. Additionally, woven fabrics have intersected into its sub-sector, i.e. the technical textile industry, which is rapidly developing at the highest CAGR, and projected to reach USD 842.6 billion in value by 2020.

Along with the growing market trend, the textile industry, however, continues to face challenges, especially in its quest to keep

Bangladesh Textile Today |

up with consumer demands, evolving digital connectivity and e-commerce channels. Traditional production processes are gradually being phased out in favor of new and innovative technologies.

To remain competitive, manufacturers have invested in R&D – to reduce operational costs, maximize uptake and productivity, and reduce contamination and waste to ensure sustainable production.

Innovations such as artificial intelligence, predictive analytics and IoT have morphed into push factors for all players in the textile industry to attain 4.0 leadership to enable automated control throughout the various processes of textile manufacturing.

Volume 12, Issue 06

Automated machines continue to prove integral to the persistent challenges of the textile industry, but such sophisticated machinery is not complete without their air compressors. With their vital role in controlling the air for textile machinery and tools, air compressors are utilized in as much as 60 machines in a textile manufacturing plant.

Referred to as the 4th utility in the manufacturing plant, air compressors are also used for Auto Corners, pneumatic actuators in yarn and fabric production, texturizing, spinning and weaving.

It is also significant in powering tools that ensure manufacturing equipment and its environment remain at the optimal condition in cleanliness and efficiency.

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 

During design making, they should consider Bangladesh environment.



rice has to be P reasonable for Bangladesh along with quality goods.



Local and foreign fashion brands in a race to grab Bangladesh market

oreign brands have to F focus on local culture, not western tradition.

oreign brands have to F make traditional dress Nakshikantha, PajamasPanjabi, Sarees and salwar kameez because of the cultural barrier.

Mohammad Nurul Alam Bangladesh’s economy is growing rapidly at an average of nearly 6.5% a year and as per the World Bank’s forecast, it will grow at an average of 7.3 percent in 2019. Rapid growth has enabled Bangladesh to reach the lower middle-income country.

So global brands are looking for grabbing the opportunity to start a retail business in Bangladesh. This is a good sign for Bangladesh image that foreign brands are considering the country as one of the safest places to start a business.

Besides, many export-oriented Bangladesh’s companies are also entering the local market and

offering the best quality product in a reasonable price. So foreign brands can be both threat and opportunity in the retail market for Bangladeshi retailers.

Foreign brands in the Bangladesh market Recently a German leading sports brand Puma kick-started its first flagship store in Bangladesh at Banani Road 11 in Dhaka.

One of the leading diversified conglomerates of Bangladesh DBL Group is the local franchisee of Puma in Bangladesh.

Similarly, a few years ago Uniqlo, Japan’s most popular clothing merchant and one of the

largest foreign manufactures in Bangladesh, opened two retail locations in Dhaka. The stores are partnerships with the Grameen Bank. Both stores feature a range of Uniqlo’s trademark colorful basics—all garments are manufactured in Bangladesh and priced for the local middle class.

Yukihiro Nitta, Chairman, Uniqlo Bangladesh, expressed his opinion with BBC during opening shop in Bangladesh, "The economy is growing rapidly. There are 160 million people living in Bangladesh. So, we found that we have a great opportunity to start a retail business."

Abhishek Ganguly, Managing Director of Puma India said during the launching ceremony of Puma in Bangladesh, “Bangladesh has a rapidly growing sporting culture and is a strategically important market for us to be in. We are excited to establish our presence.”

But when discussing with the people those are engaged in retail business in Bangladesh, they opined foreign brands may not be profitable in the Bangladesh market unless considering below factors to stay competitive: • Foreign brands have to focus on local culture, not western

52

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Brands & Bangladesh

we eventually gained a good reputation among the people.”

There are many advantages for the local brands to be competitive in the Bangladesh market according to people who are engaged in the local brands. Such as•L ocal brands can understand tradition and culture.

•T hey can understand the trend and change of habit.

•T he designer uses domestic handicrafts materials during design.

•T he traditional block print and embroidery is used carefully. tradition.

• During design making, they should consider Bangladesh environment.

• Price has to be reasonable for Bangladesh along with quality goods.

• Foreign brands have to make traditional dress Nakshikantha, Pajamas-Panjabi, Sarees and salwar kameez because of the cultural barrier.

Local brands have a vision to expand Similarly, local entrepreneurs are expanding their steps in developing own brands while many young entrepreneurs are coming in the race. Besides many export-oriented garments factories are launching their own brand and showrooms as they have all the manufacturing facilities.

well as garments in a habit with bargaining from the market. They feel bargaining shop is suitable to win during purchase.

So, it was the biggest challenge for local retailers to motivate customers and to change their traditional buying habit from bargaining to fix price shopping.

After years of motivation now local customers are accepting these brands very positively, and they feel comfortable to purchase their fashion products from fixed price local brands’ outlets.

Shaheen Ahmmed, Anjan’s Proprietor and Fashion Designer, opined, “We used to participate in different fashion competitions, which are organized by different fashion magazines. As a result,

•L ocal brands focus on the festival like Eid or Pooja-Parbhan for traditional fashion.

•T hey can combine western fashion with the traditional one in a sophisticated way.

•L ocal brands also offering a quality product in a reasonable price.

Will foreign brands be threating for the local brands?

The global market is open, unlimited and not confined in a country’s territory. This is the real factor of open trade in the global market that none of the business entity can be resisted by the law and regulation.

So foreign brands will come as the expansion of their business

Yellow, Texmart, Trendz, Amber Lifestyle, Plair and Sailor are some of them who have already made their strong presence in the Bangladesh market with their unique and lucrative products. There are also some leading domestic market-oriented brands like Aarong, Kay Kraft, Dorji Bari, while Sara, Klubhaus, Red, Twelve Clothing and O’code are the recent ones.

The retail culture in Bangladesh Traditionally people in Bangladesh like to buy everyday products as

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Brands & Bangladesh

in Bangladesh to get the undiscovered market segment. So, foreign retailers see Bangladesh as the highest potential to start a business.

Bangladesh rather this can be an opportunity for the local brands to upgrade their quality and product sense so that they can open shops outside of Bangladesh.”

But the presence of the giant retails can be also a threat for the local brands and it can grab the biggest market share.

Snowtex—the export-oriented garment manufacturer has launched its own brand ‘Sara’. The company’s Managing Director SM Khaled expressed that his local brand will be present not only in the country but also to set the footprint outside of the country.

In the open global trade, how local brands can be competitive and stay in the market that is a concerning factor for all.

While discussing with the concern people of the local brands as well as experienced personnel those are engaged with retails and trading business, we found a mix reaction on the entity of foreign retailers in Bangladesh.

Mohammad Aktaruzzaman, Director, Corporate Affairs & Branding, Twelve Clothing, said, “As the global market is open, so no one can resist any brand to enter in Bangladesh. This is in one hand good for the local retailers to match the quality up to the international level. I feel local retailers can offer good quality and affordable price than the foreign brands.”

K. I. Hossain, President, Bangladesh Garment Buying House Association and CEO of Total Apparel, said: “We cannot stop foreign brands to come in

54

What Bangladesh retailers need to do?

While talking with designers who are working for local clothing brands – their opinion is to work more on a traditional dress that people wear in Bangladesh.

Designers need to be aware of what’s currently fascinating while making the dress based on traditional practice and cultural heritage of Bangladesh.

According to Takibul Hassan Paramanik Tapu, Fashion Designer, Sara Lifestyle Ltd, “We have to understand the present trend of young people and have to offer a good range of quality product to sustain in the market.”

Md Fazlur Rahman Managing Director of the local brand—Dorji Bari said Textile Today, “Chase the youth’s taste and cope with it is the major challenge to sustain and

compete.”

To sustain in the market Bangladesh retailers have to be proactive and consider the below factors: • Always try to develop the designs following local ethnic fashion sense.

• Designers have to take the time to understand mass requirements.

• Price has to be within the purchasing capacity of the mass people.

• Right product for the right people at the right time.

• They should motivate and attract the middle class towards more to retail culture.

• Practicing good service needed.

• Ensure for the quality product as well as attractive in design.

In the nutshell, the presence of retailers from outside Bangladesh may not be a threat for the local brands if they offer world-class designs and quality product that will build long lasting relation and partnership with the customers.

Fashion brands have to facilitate to grab the growing demands for fashion wears especially for the youth who frequently changes their tastes. So, the brands have to combine western fashion with the traditional ones to be competitive with the foreign brands.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

55

Textile Today Question of the Month Foreign yarn, fabrics and several dress materials, imported through mis-declaration or illegally, are being largely sold in the local markets. As a result, local manufacturers of fabrics and yarn are facing serious trouble and struggling to survive due to lower prices of imported fabrics and yarn.

Primary textile sector leaders also claimed that about 50% looms located in Narsingdi, Baburhat, Rupganj, Pabna, Sirajganj, and Madhabdi were on the verge of closure due to sales of smuggled and duty-free imported fabrics and yarn.

What should be the steps from the government to stop the illegal imports of yarn and fabric and raw materials?

Mohammad Ali Khokon President, BTMA

Recently illegal import of Indian and Pakistani clothing products and misuse of bonded warehouse trade facility are the serious problems for the primary textile sector. I think, to stop the sale of duty-free imported fabrics, the government should write ‘not for sale’.

Besides the government has to stop the misuse of fabrics and yarn imported under duty-free facilities.

Nur E Yasmin Fatima Chief Executive Officer Nice Denim Mills Limited

As one of the largest denim fabric manufacturer, we are already facing a lot of challenges regarding this.

Our government must ensure that no one can import fabric and yarn in any illegal way. Also, VAT and TAX on raw materials should be minimized for the betterment and to sustain the textile and garment industry.

56

Mohammad Hatem Sr. Vice President, Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) I do not think foreign yarns and fabrics are imported illegally in our country. Some fabrics and raw materials are imported from abroad and sold in Islampur market. These fabrics, yarns and raw materials which we cannot produce locally.

Firstly, we need to research, why we could not produce this type of garments. Many products come illegally through our border from nearby countries. Bangladesh government should establish and maintain a strong monitoring system in our border.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

57

Textile Today Question of the Month

Md. Masud Rana Managing Director Asia Composite Mills Ltd. Primary textile is directly and absolutely dominating other forward industries. You see, many foreign apparels are sold in our local market, but we have no monitoring system whatsoever.

I think the government should take a proper decision through law without VAT or TAX in such a way that no one can import any materials illegally.

Ruhul Amin Managing Director Baishakhi Spinning Mills Ltd More than 60% of over 100000 small and medium power looms which were mainly serving the domestic market has been shut down over the last six months due to illegally imported yarns.

The government should take necessary steps in this issue to curb it. Besides, the government should increase monitoring to our port and border so that no one can immport any raw materials illegally.

Mir Md. Mustafa Kamal General Manager (Textile Division) Silver Line Group.

To avail a sustainable textile industry in Bangladesh, we must identify the routes of those illegal loopholes and shut down immediately all sorts of smuggling channels.

For the local textile market, the government should restructure the laws and legislations more strictly so that the local market safeguard the export oriented RMG industry. Imported yarn and materials should be under higher bars of duties immediately to protect our internal infrastructure. The industry leaders should raise the voice right now before things get completely out of control.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Training and development can be driving forces of RMG’s better future Ghulam Sumdany Don, Professional Corporate Trainer

The RMG sector is one of the most promising and blooming sectors of our country. Being a corporate trainer, I had the honor and privilege of working with many major brands and companies belonging to the RMG sector, including H&M, Li &Fung, Auchan Apparel, Next Sourcing, R-pac, Epyllion Group, Envoy Denim, etc.

As promising as the sector is, it cannot be denied that with the proper training and development, this industry can reach milestones that it has been aiming for.

Many of the big companies have the capability to be the best not only in the country but also on a global scale. Among other versatile factors, human resource development will be a frontier to achieve and sustain such heights.

From my firsthand experience with the industry, training and development can be deemed as one of the driving forces for this industry to do wonders in the future.

Polishing existing resources The people already working in the RMG sector are most definitely worthy of the position that they hold in the industry. However, can you imagine how advanced it can be if they are properly trained?

The prospects are high in this industry and getting into such a high demanding industry is not an easy job. So, the ones who are

Bangladesh Textile Today |

lucky enough to grab a position here, they must keep upgrading themselves through training and development to sustain in the long run.

Talking the universal language The RMG industry is highly dependent on communication in English. People working in this sector must have good command over English and should be well groomed. As this is an industry that represents our country on an international platform. The standards must be maintained without any compromise.

Compete with upcoming automation We cannot deny the fact that the way technology is improving, very soon the upcoming automation will take over the necessity of direct human involvement in this ever-growing sector. To do so, it is essential to focus on soft skills such as emotional intelligence, empathy. Because no matter how advanced technology gets, it will never reach a point in which they can imitate human emotions or make decisions through empathy.

to talk to the CEOs or COO’s of many big organizations, when I asked them why they prefer hiring people from other countries for these roles, the majority of them answered that they do not find eligible candidates for the role in our country.

Does that mean we do not have talented people who can run such a big organization? Of course not. There are many people who are highly capable to take on the task but because of lack of proper training and grooming, they miss the opportunity.

The significance of learning and development cannot be covered in just one article. What I have seen from my experience, this industry has every element to be one of the top money-generating sectors of our country. So, for now, the focus must be targeted towards proper training and development in the sector so we can thrive to be the best in business all across the world.

Making good use of local talent Statistics show that majority of the leading textile or garment organizations put their faith on foreign managers or senior correspondents when it comes to appointing for a higher position.

As a trainer, I got the opportunity

Volume 12, Issue 06

Author Ghulam Sumdany Don Professional Corporate Trainer

59

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Knit & woven dyeing & finishing

June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 61 to 78

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Te c h n o l o g y R e v i e w

Different coloration techniques for dyeing and printing industry Redwanul Hasan Coloration process of textile fibers are essential portion in the textile industry. Actually, textile coloration means a wet process which is carried out using dyes, chemicals and a large volume of water. Textile coloration is the driving force of the textile industry because the quality of fabric depends on the coloration of textile fibers mostly.

There are lots of techniques about textile coloration. Some of them are conventional and some of them are modern.

According to conventional technique, it is parted by1. Electrochemical reaction 2. Electrochemical reduction by direct 3. Electrochemical reduction by an indirect process

not require any kind of water. So, it is helpful to reduce M:L ratio. So, in a broad sense it is very much helpful for our dyeing sector.

The conventional and modern techniques are discussed below: Conventional technique 1. Electrochemical reaction: In the coloration of cellulose fibers, vat dying with sulfur dyes still give a relatively maximum part of the dyestuff market. The situation will remain constant also in the upcoming future.

Mainly because vat dyes yield colored fibers of excellent allround rapidness, particularly to light, washing, and chlorine bleaching. Sulfur dyes are prerequisite for the production of cheap products having average fastness requirements. The

dyes are very quick to light and washing, but not to chlorine.

Below the figure shows these dyes have to be reduced before coloration to be transferred into the water-soluble form which have to toward fibers and which after absorption into the fibers to be dyed, must be re-oxidized to the pure water- insoluble dye pigment make the fibers .

In conventional system, most of the dyes mechanism is used as above. Below I want to show the worldwide dyes consumption of cellulosic fibers.

From this pie chart, we can know that most of the dyeing industries use reactive dyes. But reactive dyes are not environment friendly.

So, we have to move for other dyes due to others issue.

4. Electrocatalytic hydrogenation.

According to modern techniques of coloration process of textile fibers are-

OH H

O H N

reduction oxidation

N

1: Using nanoparticles

H O indigo

2: Using ScCO2 (Supercritical carbon di oxide)

ONa H N

N

alkali hydrolysis

N

N

H OH insoluble form

H ONa soluble form

Mechanism of reduction/oxidation of indigo dyes

3: Using plasma technology 4: Using microwave process O

5: Using ultrasonic system The conventional process is needed for large volume of water.

It is a big challenge for a wet process engineer to reduce M:L ratio. Our Environment is getting polluted day by day due to dyeing factories chemicals water, and these techniques are very lengthy process.

NHCOC6H5

OH

reduction

alkali

oxidation

hydrolysis

ONa

NHCOC6H5

O

OH

ONa

anthraquinone dye

insoluble dye

insoluble dye

Mechanism of reduction/oxidation of vat dyes

D

But the modern techniques take less time and environment friendly.

To cap it all, these techniques do

Bangladesh Textile Today |

NHCOC6H5

Volume 12, Issue 06

S

S

sulphur dey

D

reduction

2 D

SH

alkali

insoluble form

2 D

SNa

soluble form

Mechanism of reduction/oxidation of sulfur dyes

63

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Te c h n o l o g y R e v i e w

electrochemical reduction process is an electron transfer process from cathode to surface of the microcrystals.

direct dyes 16%

les

o pth

3%

na es 7% sulfur dy

reactive dyes 50% td va

s ye

17

Mediators are regenerated iron complexes with indig gluconic acid as o 7% ligands. These mediators are very expensive and not fully harmless from a toxicological point of view.

After the reduction and prior to the coloration process the mediator has to be detached from the soluble leuco dye by ultrafiltration.

%

Figure 1: Worldwide consumption for dyes.

2. Electrochemical reduction by direct process: Generally, the reduction process needs a mediator, but in electrochemical reduction by the direct process, it is not needed. Actually, it does not need any redox mediator.

The leuco dye acts as an electron shuttle between the electrode and the surface of the dye pigment.

It is generated first to initiate a small amount of reduction which is proceeded by itself.

4. Electrocatalytic hydrogenation: Electrocatalytic hydrogenation process is very promising for our textile industries. It is also friendly for ecological aspects.

Electrochemical hydrogenation is a process which absorbs hydrogen,

produce in-situ by electrolysis of water, reacts with absorbed organic substrates (e.g.: vat dye at the electrode surface).

So, Vat dye is called eco- friendly dye. But it is consumed only 17% worldwide. Below the electrocatalytic hydrogenation process is drawn: Modern techniques 1. Using nanoparticles: Nanotechnology is essential for textile coloration. Textile fiber composites are basically bound in various types of molecules. After textile coloration, nanoparticles are vibrated and displaced from actual position. So, dye molecules penetrate the fiber axis and change the phase of material. Particles which are 1-100 nanometer ranges are called nanoparticles. Nanoparticles are used in two ways in textile coloration. They are: • Nanosized pigment components in textile coloration • Durability of nanocomposites.

Below the pictures of

Below the mechanism of direct electrochemical reduction of indigo radical is drawn.

3. Electrochemical reduction by indirect process: This type of reduction process needs a soluble redox mediator to increase the rate of the electron transferring process. Generally, an

Figure 3: Various types of nanoparticles.

N H

O

N H

O

O O

H N

2

O

Figure 2: Electrocatalytic hydrogenation of indigo dye.

64

H N

O

H N

N H

nanoparticles are given

O

ELECTRODE

N H

H N

O

Nanoparticles are highly emerging particles which are used for textile coloration. Actually, nano sized pigment is used in textile finishing. The advantages of using nanoparticles are nanoparticles can be sized in any shape and they can be dispersed well to avoid aggregation of the nanoparticles in dye baths. Exhaust dyeing of cationized cotton with nanoscale component dispersion has been shown good result recently and dyeing gives better soft handle

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Te c h n o l o g y R e v i e w

chemical processes.

In particular, the reaction time and energy input are supposed to be mostly reduced in the reactions that are run for a long time at high temperatures Conventional Heating Microwave Heating under conventional Fig 4: Microwave heating (volumetric) vs conventional heating (surface) conditions. Microwave is volumetric and more brilliant shade. So, techniques is low-temperature heating fast whereas nanoparticles are very much plasma treatment, which allows conventional is a surface heating appropriate for textile coloration. the surface properties to be varied slowly. over a wide range and the area of 2. Using Supercritical Carbon 5. Using of the ultrasonic system: application of polymeric materials di Oxide (ScC02): The using Power ultrasound increases a wide to be considerably extended. This of ScC02 in dyeing is very much variety of chemical and physical surface modification increases the eco- friendly in the textile industry. processes, mainly on account of hydrophilicity of the treated fiber.

ScC02 coloration technology has the incident known as cavitation An important characteristic of some potential to overcome many in a liquid medium that is the plasma treatment is that it affects technical and environmental issues growth and explosive collapse of only the surface of a material in many textile applications like: microscopic bubbles. The sudden subjected to treatment and a very Yarn preparation, coloration and and explosive collapse of these thin near-surface layer whose finishing. ScC02 is a unique media bubbles can make hot spots. thickness varies from 100A * to for either transporting chemical Finally, we can say that the several micrometers, according to because super-critical fluids take different estimates. The conditions, coloration process is essential gas-like viscosities and diffusivities to our textile industry. The new retaining the mechanical, physio and liquid –like densities. Because technology helps the industry to chemicals and electrochemical C02 is non –toxic, non-flammable, reduce environment pollution and properties of organic material. environmentally friendly and this technology helps to reduce The UV photons emitted by chemically inert under some M:L ratio. It is helpful to reduce plasma have sufficient energy to conditions. cost in the dyeing industry. So, break chemical bonds (e.g.: C-C, This its production is less costly. all dyeing industry should launch C-H) and to create radicals which Super critical fluids are really the new technology of dyeing and can transfer along the chain and produced by the effects of gas printing also. regenerate. It is depended on the and liquid changes in pressure plasma conditions and on the [Note: The article is written based and temperature. In the carbon nature of the polymer. on review paper ‘Coloration phase diagram, the triple pint Process of Textile Fibers’ 4. Using Microwave Process: occurs where temperature, volume published in International Journal Microwave promoted organic and pressure remain in the same of Scientific and Engineering reactions as well- known as phase. The critical point for carbon Research, Volume 9, Issue 11, environmental methods that di oxide occurs at a pressure of November -2018, ISSN-2229-5518] can enhance a great number of 73.8 bar and its temperature is 31.1-degree Celsius.

3. Using plasma technology: Plasma is a partially ionized gas which contains ions, electrons and neutral particles produced by the interaction of the electromagnetic field with gas under appropriate pressure. The pretreatment and finishing of textile fabrics can be replaced against the wet chemical method.

One of the most expecting and advanced polymer modification

Sound Source

Expansion Compression

Expansion

Compression

Figure 5: Ultrasonic cavitation in a liquid medium.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Air Efficiency

The power of air in textile manufacturing Meera Mathialagan The textile industry is booming, particularly in the Asian Region which accounts for 46% share of the global manufacturing market.

The strong presence of fabrics, apparel manufacturing and home furnishing facilities available in the region are contributing to this growth.

to as the fourth utility, after electricity, water and gas is an essential element for businesses around the world. For the clothing industry and manufacture of technical fabrics, compressed air is used as an energy source in the production processes.

Most apparel manufacturers prefer oil-free screw or turbo technology due to its high productivity for the operation of air jet looms.

Woven fabrics have also intersected into its sub-sector, namely, the technical textile industry which is rapidly developing at the highest CAGR, and projected to reach USD 842.6 billion in value by 2020.

Along with the growing market trends, the textile industry faces many challenges in its quest to meet consumer demand for greener production, evolving digital connectivity and automation. Traditional production processes are gradually being phased out in favour of new and innovative technologies.

Manufacturers are investing more in R&D as they seek new technology solutions to lower operational costs, maximise uptake and productivity, and reduce contamination and waste.

Innovations such as artificial intelligence, predictive analytics and IoT have morphed into push factors for major players in the textile industry towards automated control through the various processes of manufacturing.

Like many other plants, air quality is a major concern for the textile industry due to the presence of moisture, dust particles, oil and solid contaminants that can adversely affect air quality.

Compressed air, often referred

68

Figure 1: Nalin Amunugama, General Manager, BOGE Kompressoren Asia Pacific.

ď„?

The S-3 and S-4 series of screw compressors developed by BOGE Kompressoren, a leading compressed air specialist, are the ultimate solution to cost-effective operations in the textile industry. Its oil-lubricated compressed air reduces friction and prevents corrosion, and wearing of actuators in machinery used for weaving and knitting, thereby increasing their lifespan.

For spinning, the preference is for low cost oil-injected screw compressors with downstream filtration to get technically oil-free air with only 0.001mg/m3 residual oil similar to that of the oil-free compressed air generation.

The S-3 and S-4 series of screw compressors developed by BOGE Kompressoren, a leading compressed air specialist, are the ultimate solution to cost-effective operations in the textile industry.

Its oil-lubricated compressed air reduces friction and prevents corrosion, and wearing of actuators in machinery used for weaving and knitting, thereby increasing their lifespan.

Integrated compressed air treatment systems can also be equipped with advanced abilities to remove oil, water and dust particles completely for clean-air production where necessary.

The integrated Focus 2.0 compressor controllers are setup to save energy by switching the compressor as required to produce compressed air. And its BLS system can integrate up to 4 compressors in a system to master control and run the needed compressors to meet the air

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Air Efficiency

demand of the factory.

accessories.

“BOGE’s oil-free air compressors have several advantages: it is clean and non-toxic and can transfer large amounts of energy at the same time. The high energy density ensures a lower weight for the pneumatic machinery, while increasing power and speed,” says Nalin Amunugama, General Manager of BOGE Kompressoren Asia Pacific.

As fashion and textile interweave into the future, labour-intensive manufacturing will continue to undergo major transitions towards the automated production of textiles. By the year 2025, 1.2 million industrial robots will be employed.

With oil-free screw compressors, oil cannot penetrate through the compression process, and this means oil-free air from the start. Oil-free air also means less expensive downstream air treatment.

More importantly, these compressors are engineered for the safe and reliable generation of large quantities of oil-free air and energy efficiency, in base load or intermittent mode.

BOGE’s compressed air systems are not only used for Auto Corners, pneumatic actuators

Figure 2: BOGE’s air compressors are used for Auto Corners, pneumatic actuators in yarn and fabric production, spinning and weaving.

in yarn and fabric production, spinning and weaving but also as control air for textile machines and tools. Master controllers like the Airtelligence Plus and Airtelligence Provis 2.0 are an added advantage.

The Airtelligence Plus can control up to 6 compressors of the same or different output in a combined system while the Airtelligence Provis 2.0 allows for the operation of up to 16 compressors and 24

“The growing popularity of automation and smart technologies in the textile manufacturing sector is only at the beginning of its prime - networked and integrated procedures, represent the progressive way of making textile processing quicker, more flexible and sustainable,” Amunugama says.

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ITMA Preview

ITMA 2019 Sustainable Innovation Award finalists unveiled Desk Report CEMATEX, the European Committee of Textile Machinery Manufacturers, has unveiled the finalists of the second ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award, says a recent press release.

The award comprises two categories: ITMA Industry Excellence Award which celebrates the collaboration of ITMA exhibitors and their customers, and the ITMA Research & Innovation (R&I) Excellence Award for Master’s students of R&I Pavilion exhibiting institutions.

Industry Excellence Award The panel of judges selected the following three finalists who have worked closely with ITMA 2019 exhibitors to introduce innovative solutions to their production process or products: • Candiani SpA Innovation: Candiani Re-Gen: creating circular denim Nominated by ITMA exhibitor: Lenzing AG One of Europe’s largest denim producer, Candiani SpA created a denim fabric using regenerated and recycled raw materials to commemorate its 80th anniversary. 50% of the ReGen fabric comprises Tencel x Refibra Lyocell made from pulp from cotton scraps and wood pulp using Lenzing’s closed-loop process; the other 50% consists of post-industrial recycled Candiani fibers.

• Levi Strauss & Co Innovation: FLX Customization Studio Nominated by ITMA exhibitor: Jeanologia S.L Winner of the first ITMA Sustainable Innovation Award in 2015, Levi Strauss & Co continues

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to break new ground with the FLX Customization Studio. The studio revolutionizes in-store customization by allowing customers to pick their denim finish and create a unique pair of jeans in less than two hours.

It is a mobile installation where technologies needed for a sustainable garment finishing are found within two 40-feet containers that can be taken anywhere. Leveraging Jeanologia’s water recycling system, H2Zero, the studio operates on 100% recycled water.

• VF Corporation

R&I Excellence Award – Master’s The Award recognizes outstanding achievements in textile and garment related post-graduate research. The finalists are: • Mathias Zidda, Institut Für Textiltechnik, RWTH Aachen University Thesis: Development of a gear driven 3D rotational braiding machine and its control concept • Pamela Massaccesi, Universidad De Buenos Aires Thesis: TUTTI – Reusable Food Wrapping • Sarika Sunil Borikar, D.K.T.E. Society’s Textile & Engineering Institute

Innovation: All-in-One System Nominated by ITMA exhibitor: Tonello S.R.L. One of the world’s largest apparel, footwear and accessories companies, VF Corporation leverages Tonello’s garment finishing system for its Wrangler® and Lee® denim brands. The Allin-One System combines four technologies that drastically reduce the water needed in the finishing stages of jean manufacturing to 13.5 l/kg, compared with the traditional process requiring almost 100 l/ kg. Besides saving energy, it also cuts down chemical consumption, processing times and total production costs.

Thesis: Sanitary Napkin: A Greener Approach One of the judges of the R&I award, Prof Vladan Koncar, Distinguished Professor at ENSAIT (Ecole Nationale Supérieure des Arts et Industries Textiles), commented: “Many of the submissions by the students have innovative concepts with the potential to be commercially viable when further developed and ready for the market.

A number of them are also excellent sustainable solutions that answer the environmental and social concerns of today.”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

ITMA Preview

Huntsman Textile Effects introduces a new era of digital printing solutions at ITMA Desk Report Huntsman Textile Effects will launch the next-generation of high performance digital ink ranges to help customers achieve superior printing on cellulosics and polyester/cotton blends, says a recent press release.

As the industry’s focus on sustainability and performance increases coupled with the rising market demand for polyester/ cotton blends, these two new product ranges offer state of the art performance substantially enhancing sustainability and environmental standards.

Next-generation of digital inks NOVACRON® ADVANCE ink is the next generation of reactive inks for cellulosics with outstanding shade depth and color gamut, developed for the latest industrial digital printing machines. The full range achieves remarkable deep shades with perfect reliability and reproducibility compared to currently available technologies.

“We are excited to introduce our next generation ink solution that delivers high performance in terms of remarkable brilliancy, gamut and color depth,” said Mike Mordente, Business Unit Director for Digital Inks at Huntsman Textile Effects.

Mike Mordente added, “More efficient to use with higher mileage, these products require minimal maintenance and result in greater savings while meeting stringent industry standards.”

ERIOFAST® VISTA ink enables printers to achieve brilliant lasting designs on polyester/cotton blends and outperforms the best alternative solutions in digital printing in terms of brilliancy, color depth, fabric handle and

wash fastness. Using inks from this range enables printers to adopt a simple ureafree process with significantly reduced energy consumption, washing, machine maintenance and carbon dioxide emissions.

Unrivalled expertise and experience Huntsman Textile Effects will showcase its comprehensive portfolio of dyes, chemicals and digital inks at ITMA 2019 from 20 to 26 June 2019. Featured products include, AVITERA® SE and TERASIL® W/WW high washfast dyes and HIGH IQ® Repel Durable Water Repellents. We will also share our unparalleled technical support and application know-how with mills to improve their productivity and competitiveness.

Visit Huntsman Textile Effects at ITMA in Hall 3, Stand B129.

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Volume 12, Issue 06

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ITMA Preview

Archroma prepares for ITMA with 5 innovations and 24 system solutions Visit Archroma at ITMA, hall 3 booth C153, from 20 to 26 June 2019 in Barcelona, Spain Desk Report Archroma, a global leader in color and specialty chemicals towards sustainable solutions, will be at ITMA to launch its latest innovations and system solutions aimed to help textile manufacturers with optimized productivity and/or value creation in their markets, says a recent press release.

At ITMA, Archroma will present 24 solution systems and 5 innovations, and will hold “Innovation & Solutions Sessions” at its booth to present them. (See “Agenda” below).

At ITMA, visitors will be able to discover how the innovations and ingredients selected in each system are combining to help create value in their application process and end market: • Denim & casual wear

for each market.

“The textile industry is currently undergoing deep transformations and challenges, such as the constant consumer demand for more innovation and performance in apparel and textiles, Figure 1: Stay tuned with Archroma highlights and activities at ITMA 2019 by visiting on the dedicated event as well as the growing webpage. Courtesy: Archroma concerns about • Home & intimate textiles resource scarcity and product safety”, comments • Fashion & formal wear Marcos Furrer, President, • Automotive & transportation Brand and Performance Textile • Outdoor & active wear Specialties, Archroma. “With our • Workwear & uniforms. new approach based on system solutions, Archroma is further Archroma has set up a dedicated supporting our customers in webpage (https://www.archroma. addressing those challenges - and com/itma2019) to keep visitors opportunities. Because it’s our informed the systems and nature!” innovations that will be introduced

Revolutionary textile dye process launched Desk Report The future of exhaust dyeing has arrived: Nano-DyeTM’s disruptive, patent pending, sustainable cationic textile dyeing technology, The Nano-DyeTM Process, sets a new benchmark for exhaust dyers in the cotton and cotton blend textile arena with the start-up of its first two continuous, mass production systems in Bangladesh with one in March 2019 and the second this May 2019.

Nano-DyeTM’s award winning prototype system released in 2014 led to this monumental milestone.

Through collaboration with leading textile equipment manufacturers, cotton dye plant directors and textile chemists.

Nano-DyeTM’s break-through dyeing technology now allows 72

cotton exhaust dye jets to use no salt and exhaust up to 99% of dyestuff (eliminating solid waste).

Use 75% less water and 90% less energy while yielding greater lot to lot shade reproducibility and consistent quality fabric in all colors.

Additionally, the reduction of the pollution in the effluent makes Zero Discharge Water Treatment plants economical to run and sets their position for future placement making textile dyeing a clean industry.

The Nano-DyeTM System requires just one “drop-in” pretreatment step to the greige goods straight from knitting and a modification of the exhaust dye jet cycle, increasing output and lowering overall dyeing costs. The resulting fabric has a color that is cleaner in tone, has a softer hand, normal smell and increases colorfastness.

The Dyeing Industry, due to its concentration in emerging economies, needs better practices and disruptive solutions to prevent further damage to our quantum environment. After years of research and development, the future of sustainable exhaust dyeing has arrived with the NanoDyeTM System.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Q u a l i t y To d a y

QC Circle - how textile & apparel industry can be benefited Md. Zahid Hossain Introduction ’80s was the era when Bangladesh Garments sector started booming, then in the year 2000, this sector started offering superior products with improved quality concern and characteristics.

Imposing strict quality control at production factories, benefited us in two ways: firstly, our factories started getting customer confidence and could make ourselves a reliable source and secondly, our rate of rejection got lower, making us more efficient in production.

Now the time has come to adopt another concept, this one originated in Japan, practiced in almost all industry, and its benefits are immense. Imagine a portion of your workers, say 6 to 7 in number, leaded by their supervisor, one morning, approached you with a proposal of system improvement, with which company gets a little leap in efficiency. The first expression in our mind blows out, wow! This is called Quality Control Circle.

Structure of QCC

Figure: Md. Zahid Hossain (right) along with colleagues at 23rd National Annual Quality Convention-2019 at BIAM auditorium..

Not necessarily they come from your quality department, they can be from any department, who, by discussion with their team leader, feel the necessity of improving work place, may be in the case of line layout, or use of coordinated way, which will improve their work result and as a result company will be benefitted.

Definition

Steering committee

Circle Leader

Deputy Leader

Member

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Member

When matured, true quality circles become self-managing, having gained the confidence of management.

Flow chart of QCC activities:

A Quality Circle is a volunteer group composed of workers, usually under the leadership of their supervisor, who are trained to

Facilitator

identify, analyze and solve workrelated problems and present their solutions to management in order to improve the performance of the organization and motivate and enrich the work of employees.

Member

Member

Why Quality Circle?

Participative management technique always helps the company. Within the framework of a manufacturing system in which small teams of (usually 6 to 12) employees voluntarily form to define and solve a quality or performance related problem.

In Japan (where this practice originated) Quality Circle is an integral part of enterprise management and are called quality control circles.

Typical topics may be improving product design, improvement in the work design and manufacturing processes, occupational safety & health, line layout, line balancing idea, cutting

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Q u a l i t y To d a y

Objectives of quality circle Theme Selection Activity Schedule

Self Evaluation

Find Facts

Management Presentation

StandardisAtion

Quality circle’s Activites Flow chart

Evaluate Result

Problem Analysis

ImplementaTion

marker efficiency, snap attaching better idea, etc., These are related especially to the quality of output or services in order to improve the performance of the organization/department and motivate and enrich the work of employees.

The members receive training in problem solving, statistical quality control and group processes.

Quality Circle generally recommends solutions for quality and services which may be implemented by the management.

Thus, Quality Circle is not merely a suggestion system or a quality control group but extends beyond that because its activities are more comprehensive. Furthermore, it is not a taskforce because it can be made a permanent feature of the organization or a department.

History Pioneered by Japanese.

• Japanese nomenclature: Quality Control Circles (QCC), generally now known as Quality Circles (QC) or some call it as Small Group Activity (SGA).

• 1962: First Quality Circles was registered with Quality Circles Head Quarters in Japan.

• 1974: Lockheed Company, USA

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Set Target

Measure & counter Measure

started Quality Circle movement.

• 1977: International Association of Quality Circles (IACC) was formed in the USA. • 1980: BHEL, Hyderabad first in India to start Quality Circles.

• 1982: Quality Circle Forum of India (Quality Circles) was founded.

The perception of Quality Circles today is appropriate for use and the tactic implemented is to avert imperfections in services rather than verification and elimination.

Hence the attitudes of employees influence the quality. It encourages employee participation as well as promotes teamwork.

Thus, it motivates people to contribute towards organizational effectiveness through group processes. The following could be grouped as broad intentions of a Quality Circle: • To contribute towards the improvement and development of the organization or a department.

• To overcome the barriers that may exist within the prevailing organizational structure so as to foster an open exchange of ideas.

• To develop a positive attitude and feel a sense of involvement in the decision-making processes of the services offered.

 Bangladesh also has got Quality Circles activities; it is organized here by Bangladesh Total Quality Management system organization. Each year, a good number of participants from across the industries participate in Quality Circles competition. This year 2019, a total of 74 participants celebrated the Quality Circles festival.

• To respect humanity and to build a happy work place worthwhile to work.

 ‘Chorei’ is a common morning meeting ritual in Japanese organizations. Each work day begins with a meeting where employees stand in a circle and share their day's work agenda or project status.

Chorei is a cultural export in the expanding global economy.

Practitioners of chorei believe this type of meeting technique can help improve communication resulting in better productivity.

• To reduce cost and redundant efforts in the long run.

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• To display human capabilities totally and in the long run to draw out the infinite possibilities.

• To improve the quality of products and services.

• To improve competence, which is one of the goals of all organizations.

• With improved efficiency, the lead time on convene of information and its subassemblies is reduced, resulting in an improvement in meeting customers due dates.

• Customer satisfaction is the fundamental goal of any library.

It will ultimately be achieved by Quality Circle and will also help to be competitive for a long time.

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Q u a l i t y To d a y

PDCA for QCC

Problem solving tools used by QCC Quality circle report presentation

Plan

Do

*Select venue

*Execute

*Plan activity

&

*Assess

Analysis

status quo

Check

Act

*Verify

*Review

I recently ran across an example of a QC Circle presentation which was held at BIAM auditorium in this year 2019. This was one of the national level competitions among 74 participants which were across the various industry, like pharmaceuticals, RMG, Cosmetics, Battery, Testing Lab, etc.,

&

result *Standardize

improve

*Set goal *Formulate strategy

Benefits of quality circles By practicing Quality Circles in the organization, the company may be benefitted in multiple ways, including there may be an immense financial benefit as well.

The other benefit may be• Self-development: Quality Circle’s assist the selfdevelopment of members by improving self-confidence, attitudinal change, and a sense of accomplishment.

• Social development: Quality Circles is a consultative and participative program where every member cooperates with others. This interaction assists in developing harmony.

• Opportunity to attain knowledge: Quality Circles members have a chance for attaining new knowledge by sharing opinions, thoughts, and experience.

• Potential Leader: Every member gets a chance to build up his leadership potential, in view of the fact that any member can become a leader.

• Enhanced communication skills: The mutual problem solving and presentation before the management assists the members to develop their communication skills.

• Job-satisfaction: Quality Circle’s promote creativity by tapping

the undeveloped intellectual skills of the individual.

Individuals, in addition, execute activities diverse from regular work, which enhances their selfconfidence and gives them huge job satisfaction.

QC Circles used the basic method of report presentation. Typically, the QC Circle reports include but are not limited to: • Title • Member Introduction • Background and Context • Reasons for Selection • Current Situation

• Healthy work environment: Quality Circle’s creates a tension-free atmosphere, which each individual like, understands, and co-operates with others.

• Goal for the Project

• Organizational benefits: The individual benefits create a synergistic effect, leading to cost effectiveness, reduction in waste, better quality, and higher productivity.

• Results and Confirmation of Effect

• Analysis of the Problem • Countermeasures • Plan for Implementation

• Remaining Steps and Standardization • Reflection Points

Group members meet at a certain time to discuss Brainstorm

Data base analysis of present situation and what will be after implementations

Pareto Analysis

Cause & effect diagram, called as ishikawa diagram Fishbone Diagram

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

ITMA Preview

BRÜCKNER to highlight innovation in upcoming ITMA 70 years of success through innovation Desk Report BRÜCKNER has been the worldwide partner for all companies which are drying, coating and finishing web-shaped materials: whether clothing fabrics, nonwovens, carpet, glass or coatings.

BRÜCKNER has invested, developed and implemented a lot in this area in recent years: • Intelligent assistance systems monitor the machine settings in the background and provide the machine operator with information on how to run the system even more productively and consuming fewer resources.

Studies have shown that optimizing production parameters can increase production speed by up to 40% and/or reduce energy consumption by up to 30%.

• A newly developed simulation tool helps to optimize existing recipes. The many machine parameters to be set to have reduced to the essentials and

can in future be calculated automatically on the basis of the textile key data.

• For the service, there is a new maintenance tool that proactively gives the machine operator or maintenance department service instructions that can be tracked in a logbook. In the future, a newly developed online service platform will support our customers with all service inquiries.

• The exchange of machine data with higher-level control station or ERP systems is easily possible with OPC-UA. This allows to rationalize processes in the textile factory and to monitor the quality.

BRÜCKNER has invested a lot in the denim sector and has also increased its personnel. The German market leader offers

integrated finishing systems for pigment dyeing, synthetic resin finishing and coating: BRÜCKNER can offer new concepts in the field of continuous dyeing. The continuously improved POWER-INFRATHERM IR predryer has heating and cooling times of less than 5 seconds.

The BRÜCKNER POWERCOLORTHERM Hotflue ensures uniform drying of the fabric over the entire width of the chambers.

Optionally available are patented, driven special spreading rollers for crease-free operation with sensitive fabrics (stripe satin/ percale/weft-elastic fabric) as well as a highly effective, fully automatic roller cleaning system.

With the new BRÜCKNER POWER-FRAME VNE multi-layer stenter, only one machine operator is required, as the entry and the exit are on the same machine side.

LTG to showcase air-related technology at ITMA Desk Report LTG specialized in HVAC products in Europe with innovation, quality and dependability in all areas of air related technology, is going to showcase in the upcoming ITMA 2019, Hall 8.1, Booth B 102, said a recent press release.

Whether natural textiles, nonwovens or high-tech fiber production: In the textile industry, LTG technology provides the appropriate indoor climate, the air flow for laying, or filters fibers to make them available for disposal or recycling within the process.

For the separation of fibers and dusts, among other things, the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

pre-filter TVM and the fine filter CDF.

compact filter unit CFU has proven itself. It has a modular structure and can be composed of different filter stages, for example the

Volume 12, Issue 06

The filtered substances can be safely and efficiently separated into fiber or dust compactors.

The LTG drum filters are specially designed for larger air volumes.

LTG also offers radial, axial and cross-flow fans for a variety of applications, such as conveying dusts, drying in belt or continuous processes, or laying and compacting nonwovens.

The portfolio is rounded off by humidification systems, which ensure ideal humidity in the production process.

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Unveiling industry best practices

D e n i m f a b r i c & e ff e c t s June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 79 to 96

6 of the best-fitting denim brands

April 2019

Knitting & Knitwear

Global denim fabric consumption upsurge indicates a bright future for Bangladesh

Unveiling industry best practices

Amber Denim and Textile Today jointly launched ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ training

Editorial

A proactive planning team can make production process easy Shafiur Rahman, Regional Operations Manager, G-Star Raw

Here we can see every team is partially doing others team job and which actually makes the whole process complicated. But is it not better to simplify this and make respective team accountable? So, we should find the best way to do it! The planning team should lead to RMG manufacturing. However, if we look at the existing way of working is as below: - Marketing team following up production, quality, purchase, commercial, etc.

- Production team following up planning, merchandising, etc.

- Sewing team following up cutting, finishing, printing, embroidery, etc.

- Finishing team following up sewing, cutting, washing - GPQ as part of merchandising team works for assuring product quality - Quality team monitoring production work

Bangladesh Textile Today |

ď„?

Generally, it is difficult for the merchandising team as it is not easy to co-ordinate all internal resources. If production teams want to lead, then they need to compromise with efficiency or product quality. On the other hand, the planning team is working in the center of all team, so the planning team should be able to take the better lead, but planners should have enough product and manufacturing knowledge.

Volume 12, Issue 06

- HRD is working to hire a new team as management is not happy for existing team The current situation is planning team preparing the Gantt chart after getting order input from the marketing team. It’s a kind of assistance for the production team to know the order pattern.

If the production team follows proposed Gantt chart blindly then a certain percentage of production line may stay input less ending up with efficiency loss as they are not responsible to ensure supply chain.

Purchase and the merchandising team are responsible for ensuring smooth feeding the lines.

Sometime logical unexpected reason can be there for delaying in housing materials. But this message is not conveying to the planning team always, rather passing to their managers or production managers. Then production manager starts thinking of alternative feeding for his sewing lines with/without

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Editorial

D e n i m To d a y

- Quality team for quality

Marketing

- HR for resource development Finance

Planning

- Marketing for order feeding It also can assist to ensure- Transparency - Traceability

Merchandising/ Purchase

Export commercial

- Accountability - Reduce lead time - Frustration in work - Short shipment - Reduce waste

Supply chain

Quality

- Misusing company resources - Happiness in work

Production

- Correct material flow

Planning

Figure: Simplified production process

consulting with the planning team.

Means production manager can’t fully concentrate on his responsibility rather he is thinking for others work. Automatically product quality is deteriorating which is ending up delay delivery, short shipment, creating conflict among internal teams, and even creating personal conflicts. Surely also losing efficiency.

So, one team should lead internally and one team ensure externally.

We all know that the marketing team is leading externally, also internally in some cases. The marketing team is not interested to lead internally. If the marketing team see smooth delivery with correct quality, then they can go back to brands and retailers for more order even at a higher price.

So who can ensure smooth execution to deliver in time? Who can lead internally? Probably we all are thinking of anyone team among merchandising or planning or production team. Generally, it is difficult for the merchandising team as it is not easy to coordinate all internal resources. If production teams want to lead, then they need to compromise with efficiency or product quality.

On the other hand, the planning team is working in the center of all

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team, so the planning team should be able to take the better lead, but planners should have enough product and manufacturing knowledge.

Still, the main challenges of planning will be a smooth supply chain or alternative planning.

The solution of the problem is introducing supply chain department as back end support of the planning team and planners need to work from order receiving date instead of start working one week before PCD. They need to focus on both macro planning and micro planning, so that top to bottom part of the team has aligned.

That does mean that hiring new people, rather re-organizing of existing manpower and training them if necessary.

Management can transfer Production or Quality General Manager to lead planning team to simplify the whole process – marketing – planning – merchandising/purchase – supply chain – planning – production – quality – export commercial – finance – marketing.

It can help to focus right people into right task like- Production team to production

Then the planning department will be the main data center, so all should know where to pass information. Planning department should be the bridge of all departments. Surely, planning will criticize marketing team for wrong order pattern and marketing team will also criticize for planning failure, but if this criticism act positively. Both teams will find a way to improve for future and synchronize for better harmony.

Once the individual department will do their tasks and the culture gets established, automatically it will help to reduce the number of task for all. Quality team will gain the trust of production quality ending up reducing manpower in the quality team. Marketing will gain trust in production and quality team. HRD will gain trust in their human resources. End of the day – a profitable company will grow up with trust and enjoyment of work.

Author Shafiur Rahman Regional Operations Manager, G-Star Raw

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

www.knitdenim.com

Hengliang textile, as a national knitting denim product development base enterprise, after more than ten years of growth and development, has become a number of domestic and foreign clothing brands designated fabric suppliers.

Company equipped with rope dyeing production line, imported circular knitting machine, high speed warp knitting machine, finish line, and other knitted denim production equipment, dyeing, weaving and finishing of knitted denim comprehensive management and production, have professional scale.

Company produces 5000 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim corn yarns, 8,500 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim fabrics, and 2.5 million pieces of knitted denim garments annually. The company’s main customer base at present is throughout Europe, America and southeast Asia, enjoying a good reputation in the denim industry and fast fashion brands at home and abroad.

Indigo knit

Knit printing

Colorful knit denim

HENGLIANG Bangladesh Textile Today | JIANGYIN Volume 12, Issue 06

Cotton warp knitting

TEXTILE CO., LTD

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House: NO. 83 YunGu Road, Zhouzhuang, Jiangyin City, Jiangsu Province, China. T: +86-0510-86155677 E: sales@knitdenim.com

Denim Brands

6 of the best-fitting denim brands Sarah Boyd, Founder of SIMPLY, President of West Coast Operations – NYLON I could easily live my entire life in jeans. Dress them up or dress them down, there are endless ways to wear and style jeans, making them the perfect go-to for just about any occasion. With the popularity of wearing jeans, however, comes an infinite amount of stylish denim brands. With so many to choose from, it can be difficult to discern which brands are worth the investment.

Here are 6 denim brands that I have tested for you and have determined are worth checking out:

1. Black Orchid

2. Rolla's

LA-based Black Orchid counts celebrities like Jessica Alba and Gigi Hadid as fans, and with their cool washes and great fits, it's easy to see why.

This fun Australian denim brand takes a lot of style inspiration from the 70s and 80s, which I absolutely love. Plus, with most jeans coming in under $100, these are trendy styles that you can play and have fun with.

Dress up these dark wash jeans (fig-1) with heels and a lace bodysuit for a great night-outlook.

These straight-leg jeans (fig-2) are classically chic and look good with a simple white tee as much as they will compliment a bold statement top.

Figure 1: Black Orchid Kate Super High Rise in Studio 54.

Figure 2: Rolla's Dusters in Old Stone.

3. Levi's

4. Outland Denim

Levi's has withstood the test of time for a reason. For almost 150 years they've been creating some of the best jeans in the business, and once you find your perfect fit, you'll wear them forever.

Not only does Outland Denim produce gorgeous, high-quality jeans, but they also support an incredible cause and provide at-risk women with jobs to keep them out of poverty and sex trafficking. With so many clothing lines to choose from, I always love seeking out the brands that are looking to give back and leave the world a better place.

If you don't have a pair of Wedgie Fit jeans (fig-3) in your wardrobe, do yourself a favor and fix that mistake now! Any fashion lover will tell you how flattering and comfortable these jeans are.

Seriously, they fit like a glove!

For a relaxed fit, I would definitely recommend exploring this pair from Levi's. They will look so cute with simple sneakers and a leather jacket.

A cropped style like this pair (fig-4) is a great throwback style for summer, and the shortened ankle is cute on shorter girls.

Figure 3: Levi's Wedgie Fit Jeans in Medium Wash.

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Figure 4: Outland Denim Abigail Crop in Morning.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Denim Brands

Te x t i l e S a v v y

5. Neuw

6. Boyish Jeans

Neuw's jeans have a classic vintage feel to them, even though they are brand new.

One thing that really makes Neuw stand out is that its parent company Three By One (who also owns Rolla's) is committed to creating sustainable and ethical denim, using recycled water for wash cycles and working with sustainable cotton mills.

Like the name suggests, Boyish features plenty of relaxed fits and borrowed-from-the-boys styles.

They are also really reasonably priced, so you can find quality denim without paying a fortune, and sustainably created right in Los Angeles.

These relaxed jeans (fig-6) are perfect for easygoing summer days. Worn with a breezy camisole or linen button down, you'll have a great, casual outfit for any temperature.

These midnight black jeans (fig-5) are so comfortable, and the high waist will flatter every body type.

Figure 6: Boyish Jeans The Kirby in The Birds.

Figure 5: Neuw Marilyn Skinny in Blackest Silk.

This feature is published in Forbes on May 23, 2019.

1 bale cotton makes how many things?

Desk Report Cotton is known for its versatility, performance and natural comfort.

It is used to make all kinds of clothes and home-wares as well as for industrial purposes like tarpaulins, tents, hotel sheets and army uniforms.

For jeans, it is possible to make 215 pairs from 1 bale of cotton! A bale of cotton weighs about 480 pounds. According to the National Cotton Council, here are some of the other quantities of various cotton items one can get from a bale of cotton.:

X 215 pairs of jeans

X 249 single bed sheets

X 409 shirts

• 215 pairs of jeans

x 1217 t-shirts

• 249 bed sheets • 409 men’s sport shirts • 690 terry bath towels

X 3,085 nappies 1 bale Cotton =

• 765 men’s dress shirts • 1,217 men’s t-shirts • 1,256 pillowcases • 2,104 boxer shorts • 2,419 men’s briefs • 3,085 diapers

x 4,321 pairs socks

• 4,321 mid-calf socks • 6,436 women’s knit briefs

X 1,256 pillowcases

x 2,104 pairs of boxer sorts

• 21,960 women’s handkerchiefs

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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D e n i m To d a y

Denim Fabric

Global denim fabric consumption upsurge indicates a bright future for Bangladesh Khurram Bahadur Worldwide denim fabric products created the opportunity for the denim sector of Bangladesh. The sales of the global denim market are predicted to reach 9,130.1 million meters in 2023, with CAGR of 4.7 percent, said the Market Insights Reports.

The global denim fabric market was valued at $19.70 billion in 2018 and will reach $25.40 billion by 2025, growing at a CAGR of 3.2 percent.

The annual growth rate has been increased to 4.77 percent between 2012 and 2016 because of a significant rise in its uses, said the Market Insights Reports.

According to the report, the consumption was 6,618.1 million meters in 2016 against 5,493.7 million in 2012.

It indicates a bright future for Bangladesh. At present, Bangladesh has 30 denim mills with a capacity to produce 150 million yards of fabric a month, which can meet only 40 percent of Bangladesh’s annual demand for denim fabric and the rest is met through imports from China, India and Pakistan.

Global denim fabric market value

$19.70 billion in

was 2018

The market to reach

$25.40 billion by 2025

was mainly driven by growing demand for clothing, household items and many other fields, said by the report.

With fashion effect of denim, the downstream application industries will need more denim fabrics. So, denim has huge market potential in the future.

“It is true that the uses of denim fabrics increased manifold. We are not suffering from a crisis of work orders but from low prices,” said Kutubuddin Ahmed, Chairman of Envoy Textiles, which produces 4.5 million yards of fabric per month.

Two years ago, Ahmed used to produce three million yards and

increased the output to cope with demand.

Like Envoy Textile, many other domestic producers also increased their production capacity. So, there are many suppliers in the market and prices are going down. The uses of denim products increased as the fabric is used for many purposes as for household usage, apart from traditional trousers and shirt making.

“Now the denim fabric is used for almost all fashions both for male and female customers. With the change of fashion worldwide, denim fabrics is used for making jackets as well,” he said.

Last fiscal year, Bangladesh exported denim goods worth $3 billion.

At present, the major manufacturers of denim fabrics are concentrated in India and China.

Now Bangladesh denim products are also dominating the global markets by beating its competitors in the European markets as well as in the United States by occupying of proverbial denim pieces.

Globally the denim fabric market

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Denim People

Amber Denim and Textile Today jointly launched ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ training Staff Correspondent Denim is one of the most growing sectors in Bangladesh RMG industry. Bangladesh is the 3rd largest denim garments exporter to the USA and 1st to the EU market. Bangladesh denim sector is facing many challenges like efficiency, quality ensuring, profitability, etc. Efficient denim professionals are vital to ensure the sustainable growth of the denim sector who will run the denim factories successfully.

With the aim in mind to make efficient professionals for denim sector Textile Today Training has taken initiative to arrange training on ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ jointly with Amber Denim Ltd. Trainer Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury will take the training session which includes inhouse and factory training.

Factory training is held at Amber Denim.

Textile Today is going forward very strongly to make efficient and smart denim professionals who will lead the denim sector of Bangladesh in the future. Amber Denim has already extended their facilities to be a true partner of this initiative and will stay beside in future.

Figure 1: Participants with Trainer Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury at the R&D department of Amber Denim.

 Textile Today is going forward very strongly to make efficient and smart denim professionals who will lead the denim sector of Bangladesh in the future. Amber Denim has already extended their facilities to be a true partner of this initiative and will stay beside in future.

shared the well-organized operating procedure of Amber Denim mills with the help of the denim professionals working at Amber Denim Mills. He shared a number of developed fabrics

by Amber Denim with the participants.

Amber Denim has a well-organized set up to meet the demand of different buyers. Even the sample section of Amber is so disciplined that other garment factories can follow their sample section. From warping to weaving every segment of Amber Denim was introduced with the participants which will be helpful for them in the long run.

‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ is one of the 18 Factory Skills Development

Already Textile Today Training successfully completed the 1st and 2nd batch of ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ training with factory training at Amber Denim, one of the most well-organized denim mills in Bangladesh.

The factory training of ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’ was successfully completed on 5 May 2019 at Amber Denim.

Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury

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Figure 2: Great learning experience for the participants at Amber Denim production floor.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Denim People

D e n i m To d a y

Figure 3: Hamidur Rahman, General Manager (Admin HR & Compliance) and trainer Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury handed over the certificates to the participants.

Training Programs of Textile Today Training. Each course duration is of 16 hours (12 hours inhouse training and 4 hours of factory training). According to this frame, factory training is conducted at Amber Denim which will help the participants to go forward strongly and efficiently.

In the later part of the day after the long training session on ‘Denim Development & Manufacturing’, Md. Hamidur Rahman, General Manager (Admin HR & Compliance) and Engr. Rafat Hasan Chowdhury handed over the certificates to the participants from BUTEX, BUFT, Skyrose Trading, S.M Engineering, etc.

Textile Today Training is going to launch an advanced training on Denim Development & Manufacturing very shortly. Amber Denim and Textile Today Training are determined to go forward jointly to create efficient denim professionals who will face the future challenges of the denim sector in Bangladesh.

Transforming Human Capital

be a

Wash Technologist to unlock enormous Career opportunities

COURSES UNDER THIS CERTIFICATE Denim Development & Manufacturing Garments Washing & Effects Textile Fibre, Yarn, Fabric 3R & Sustainability Quality Control & Inspection Rotary Screen (All Over) Printing Design & Development

Contact: 01734 211085, Visit- https://training.textiletoday.com.bd Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

89

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

TTH Research

Design and development of smart personal floatation device with location tracking Rashedul Islam, Dept. of Wet Process Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles Hasan Shahariar, Ph.D. Fiber and Polymer Science, North Carolina State University, USA Dewan Murshed Ahmed, Assistant Professor, Dept. of Fabric Engineering, Bangladesh University of Textiles The Problem Bangladesh is a riverine country and communication by waterways are proven cheapest and safest mode of transportation in case of carrying passengers or goods.

The hundreds of rivers make the 24000 km-circuitous (DOP) inland water paths in the rainy season to transport passengers and goods.

This important mode of transport is ridden by tragic disasters every year, incurring a heavy toll of human lives.

According to the Department of Shipping, around 3869 people have died and hundreds of people gone missing in only 458 launch disasters since 1976 (DOS, BIWTC). Actually, the total number of people dyed by water transport accident are more than ten thousand and more than two thousand gone missing according to the different personnel of the BIWTA and BIWTC. There are many reasons for the accidents including low fitness of vehicles, adverse weather, lack of skills of the responsible persons, not carrying any personal floatation devices or life-saving vests.

Nowadays, life vests or personal floatation devices used for protecting someone from sinking into water has some limitations.

They are not comfortable to wear.

One of the main problems of the

90

Back Side

Right Side

Front Side

Leftt Side

PFD that it does not keep the proper body shape so that the passengers are not willing to wear.

But in our work, we overcome this problem by giving enough buoyancy force which will float any passenger who does not know how to swim and thus will save thousands of lives in inland waterway accident.

The solution As we know that one object can be floated if the weight of the water replaced by the object

is higher than the weight of the object. But, in the case of a person, the weight of water replaced by the person is all the time lower than the weight of own-self. So, the buoyancy force needs to be higher than the water to float a person. In this stage, the required minimum buoyancy force is to be calculated respectively to the person volume.

According to the mathematical calculation, a sPFD will be designed by the CAD system

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

Te x t i l e Ta l e n t H u n t

TTH Research

keeping proper body shape and distributing the buoyancy force uniformly. After completing the design, it will be materialized by the CAM system using different types of waterproof fabric such as polyester, Nylon or neoprene fabric with enough buoyant material such as polyester foam, polyurethane foam, air, CO2 into the middle of two layers. This will maintain proper body shape and cotton backing will provide enough comfort to the wearers.

Besides, it will allow enough buoyancy force to float any person (baby to older) without doing any physical activity in the water.

In this research work, we introduced a new structural design of the multilayered fabric which is further used to make the sPFD. We also reported on the proper region of the human body where the multilayered fabric was placed to keep the proper body shape. This will keep the human body floated above the water without any activity

performed by a human. Our sPFD will work for both the people who know how to swim or don’t know.

In this work, we designed and developed a smart personal floatation (sPFD) device which is less bulky and comfortable in comparison with existing personal floatation devices or life jacket. It is able to send the exact location to a specific server build in the vehicle. Generally, PFD has bulk appearance due to the use of different foam materials in its structure. Due to bulk structure and discomfort to wear, the passengers, as well as Marine Corps, are not willing to wear any protection devices during their journey or regular activities in the waterway.

examining the different floating materials and their proper ergonomic distribution according to the human body structure.

Simultaneously it provides enough buoyancy force to keep floating a human body. It will save thousands of human lives dying every year due to water transport accidents or any kind of waterway accidents.

In addition, it can also be used as a swimming suit for the new learners as well as for the people who work in the river or in the sea.

To read full research paper please visit

Conclusion Every year more than thousands of people die in the maritime and waterway accidents. One of the reasons is not wearing any personal floatation device. Here, we reduced the bulkiness by

Phone: 0088-0171-3004523 mukarram.hossain@yahoo.com

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06 mukarram.hyosung@live.com

91

d Lt

ea ns ul J So

s .

Itema Group: Innovation on stage at ITMA 2019

n io sh Fa

&

ITMA Preview

Desk Report

Itema, the Italian global leading provider of best-in-class weaving solutions, participates at ITMA with the goal to establish and confirm once again its technological leadership in the industry, said a recent press release.

Itema, that recently launched Itematech – the new division dedicated to technical textiles born as a result of the agreement signed with PTMT (ex Panter) – will feature 3 stands and 11 weaving machines, plus more in partner’s booths.

Seven are the machines displayed in the Itema booth (Hall 4 – C101) which will showcase on the ITMA global stage new innovations set to amaze worldwide weavers and experts, including iSAVER™ – the latest mechatronic marvel equipped on the R9500-2denim weaving machine able to completely eliminate the weft and warp waste on the left-hand side of the fabric establishing a new benchmark in sustainable weaving.

Many novelties will be shown also on

the Itema airjet machines and three new rapier R9500-2, the second generation of the absolute Itema bestseller which comes at ITMA further optimized, will be on the show.

Moreover, a real, never-beforeseen surprise will be showcased with the target to demonstrate the Company mission to tirelessly work to innovate the weaving industry.

In the Itematech stand (Hall 4 – A101), the focus will be on technical textiles with 4 weaving machines on display to demonstrate the most comprehensive product portfolio in the market to weave the widest range of technical fabrics.

Last but not least, Lamiflex – the leading supplier of technical composite products of which Itema acquired majority stakes in 2017 – will be present at ITMA (Hall 4 – C106) with its ample catalogue of key rapier weft transfer components available for a wide range of rapier machines on the market.

A.S.M Asaduz Zaman(Saiful) Managing Director

Corporate Office: Soul Jeans & Fashions Ltd. House- 1/A. 4th floor, R. -14/A, Sec. -4, Uttara -Dhaka.

Email: zaman@souljeansfashions.com Cell: +8801725706260

D e n i m To d a y

ITMA Preview

Jeanologia to present new production model based on digitalization and sustainability at ITMA Desk Report Jeanologia, the Spanish company leader in developing sustainable and efficient technology, will present a new production model based on digitalization and sustainability that reduces times and simplifies processes, reinventing the way of producing jeans.

The company will show a complete solution that achieves 100% ecological production, speeding up time to market through the perfect integration of hardware and software. This new agile and efficient way of producing drastically reduces lead time from months to weeks or even days, adapting to the new market needs.

This innovative process also reduces to a minimum the use of water and chemicals, obtaining significative savings

Enrique Silla, CEO at Jeanologia, highlights that sustainability has always been their driving force, working to identify the sector needs and developing the necessary technology. “We were facing a production model that was obsolete, with an intensive use of manual labor and natural resources. This brought us to completely rethink the way jeans are produced.”

and eliminating discharge; helping companies to reduce their environmental footprint, lower costs and taking care of workers’ health.

“Today we can assure that we are technologically prepared to introduce a production model which is completely technological, efficient, ethical and sustainable; without compromising product authenticity.” With Jeanologia as the expert technological partner the industry has all the tools it needs to face the future of jean manufacturing.”

Aleph at ITMA 2019 Desk Report Innovation and environmental sustainability in digital textile printing will be central to Aleph’s showcase at ITMA 2019. A leading Italian manufacturer of sublimation and direct-to-fabric inkjet printers for the textile and visual communication industries.

Aleph will unveil a range of brand-new scanning printing systems aimed at enhancing and integrating its flagship series, LaForte. Designed as a fashion boutique, the company’s booth (Hall H3, Stand B131) will host the latest cutting-edge technologies developed by Aleph and a wealth of textile applications.

Three pioneering models from LaForte series will be on display at ITMA 2019: brand-new, top-of-theline LaForte 600 Fabric, LaForte 200 Fabric and recently launched, dye-sublimation entry-level printer, 94

Aleph’s printer features a compact design, which facilitates its integration into various production environments, and a waterless process that reduces the consumption of water and energy, resulting in drastically lowered production costs and environmental impact.

LaForte 100.

LaForte series, ranging from entry-level to flagship models Debuting worldwide at ITMA 2019, LaForte 600 Fabric is an industrial inkjet direct-to-textile printer designed to deliver high-volume manufacturing of extremely highquality printed textiles. Enabling a print speed from 600 up to 1000 sqm/hour at a print resolution up to 1200 dpi, LaForte 600 Fabric almost reaches the same productivity as single-pass inkjet presses but featuring scanning technology.

At ITMA, Aleph will exhibit a complete production line, featuring: a fabric feeding system that supports jumbo reels (up to 1 m roll diameter and 1.000 kg roll weight), LaForte 600 Fabric (equipped with 48 printheads), a proprietary drying system and an exit plater including optional winding unit. Both the feeding system and the plater are from Italian company Bianco Group, partnering with Aleph.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

JOB OPPORTUNITIES

JOB OPPORTUNITY

A Renowned Denim Factory in Bangladesh is looking for dynamic, self- motivated, proactive and enthusiastic persons for the following posts.

A Renowned Denim Fabric Mill is looking for the Head of R&D who is dynamic, self- motivated, proactive, enthusiastic & has widespread knowledge in Research and Development (R&D) of Denim Fabric.

Position:

Manager Marketing (Fabric)

Position: Head of R&D (Fabric) Educational Requirements

Educational Requirements:

• Bachelor of Science (BSc) in Textile Engineering

• Graduate from any reputed university preferably in B.Sc in Textile Engineering

Experience Requirements

Experience Requirements: • 8 to 10 year(s) • The applicants should have experience in the following area(s): Denim fabric production/ Marketing / Quality Control and R & D

Job Location: Dhaka Salary & benefits: • Negotiable • Attractive package will be offered to the deserving candidates

• 10 to 12 year(s) • The applicants should have experience in the following area(s): Denim Fabric Production, Denim washing, Denim garments, R&D etc.

Job Location: Narayanganj Salary: Negotiable

Deadline: 30 June, 2019 Interested candidates are encouraged to send a complete resume to: sanjoy@textiletoday.com.bd Note: Please mention the job position in subject line.

For details: https://jobs.textiletoday.com.bd

Position: Assistant Manager

Marketing (Fabric) Educational Requirements:

• Graduate from any reputed university preferably in B.Sc in Textile Engineering

Experience Requirements:

JOB OPPORTUNITY One of the prominent Bangladeshi Textile fiber, Yarn, Fabric & Accessories company is looking for young energetic person who is potential performers & ready to prove himself.

Position: Asst. Manager/

• 3 to 5 year(s) • The applicants should have experience in the following area(s): Denim fabric production/ Marketing / Quality Control and R & D

Educational Requirements:

Job Location: Dhaka

• Graduate from any reputed university preferably in B.Sc in Textile Engineering

Salary & benefits:

Experience:

Manager-Marketing

• Attractive package will be offered to the deserving candidates

• 3 to 5 year(s) • The applicants should have experience in the following area(s): Sales/ Marketing of Cotton, Yarn and Fabric.

Deadline: 30 June, 2019

Job Location: Dhaka Salary & benefits: Negotiable

• Negotiable

Interested candidates are encouraged to send a complete resume to: sanjoy@textiletoday.com.bd Note: Please mention the job position in subject line.

For details: https://jobs.textiletoday.com.bd

Deadline: 30 June, 2019 Interested candidates are encouraged to send a complete resume to: sanjoy@textiletoday.com.bd Note: Please mention the job position in subject line.

For details: https://jobs.textiletoday.com.bd

Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 97 to 114

Being a country of the highest wastage and lower productivity, how do we ask higher price?

Surgical sutures, the most common implantable medical textiles

Unveiling industry best practices

New report shows more than 50% of consumers plan to switch to more eco-friendly brands

June 2019

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

A p p a r e l To d a y

Thirst Sector

Immense untapped potential for Bangladesh sewing thread sector Sayed Abdullah Sewing sector in Bangladesh is the backbone of the RMG industry.

And the sector people are forecasting that within the next 10 years the sewing sector will gain growth of an average 15%.

In 2015, Bangladesh RMG sector exported around US$21 billion, and the sewing sector supplied near about $21 million of thread. In FY 18-19, local sewing thread factories supplied $29 millions of thread. Making the backward linkage industry more capable and noteworthy.

As the apparel export is growing at a healthy stage in parallel with increasing the demand for locally made sewing thread. And can be termed as a vital implicit export sector.

Currently, there are more than 30 sewing thread factories in Bangladesh.

Major six factories – three of them are a foreign-local joint investment and the rest three are locally owned company - are supplying 72% of the current demand.

Sewing sector experts said the demand for the cotton thread is lower than of polyester thread.

Local thread producers import the white sewing thread and dye it here, or some like Well Thread produce thread locally.

World’s biggest sewing thread producer, US based COATS, with A.K. Khan & Co. jointly founded COATS Bangladesh, is the largest shareholder in the sewing producing market, supplying 31% of the market share.

One of a pioneer in sewing thread business in Bangladesh, Well Thread, founded back in 1973.

Currently, they have 7% of the Bangladesh sewing market share, making them 4th in the list.

Well, Thread is also one of the largest sewing thread producers in

Bangladesh Textile Today |

 The sector people highlighted that, buyers fix the quality of sewing thread when they place an order. Sometimes, foreign buyers also fix the sewing thread supplier company! And unsurprisingly, foreign companies tend to get a major share of orders.

South East Asia, has a versatile product range, making them a dominating sewing entity in the South Asian region.

With its integrated facilities – from spinning, twisting, dying, finishing – all things combined it is one of the largest producers of sewing thread in this region.

Syed Nurul Islam, Chairman of Well Group expressed to Textile Today, on the matter of extreme price competitiveness in the global sewing market, “Challenges will

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be always there. As CEO of Well Group, from my experience, I should say that manufacturers have to be a lot more hard worker and exceptionally innovative.”

“And yes, we must also have to increase productivity and efficiency. Otherwise, we cannot sustain this business. What I do believe, global competitiveness is very important,” Nurul Islam further added.

Amann Bangladesh – a GermanBangladesh joint investment company – supplies 8% of the local sewing thread demand. Making them 3rd largest supplier in the market.

Apart from the state-of-the-art factory, AMANN Bangladesh has the most experienced and versatile of professionals from the sewing threads sector of Bangladesh leading the team.

Md. Rokonuzzaman, FCA, Managing Director of AMANN Bangladesh Ltd. said, “Sewing business is mainly operated by back-to-back LC (letter of credit).

Where numerous banks and NBR is involved. Making the sewing thread delivery process lengthy, which makes the customers

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Thirst Sector

dissatisfied. This is a paramount area where the concerned authorities should look to ease.”

“To make Bangladesh more competitive in the global arena, the government should provide additional and financial benefits to the locally produced raw materials for sewing thread. Then this sector will be more self-dependent,” Rokonuzzaman hoped.

2025 US$ 5432 mn

2018 US$ 4265 mn

Currently, the global sewing thread market is well fragmented and intensely competitive. But the investment in the sector also increased considering the positive growth or RMG export.

Although the sewing thread growth is good, there is always uncertainty as the demand is constantly fluctuating. To ride on the market wave the sector needs to bring production diversification.

The sector people have voiced that, there is a practice of unhealthy competition regarding prices among the international and local sewing thread producers. Though the locally made thread is cheaper the majority market share is still in the hands of foreign companies.

Global sewing thread market CAGR 3.6% (2019-2025) But why? The sector people highlighted that, buyers fix the quality of sewing thread when they place an order. Sometimes, foreign buyers also fix the sewing thread supplier company! And unsurprisingly, foreign companies tend to get a major share of orders.

However, considering all the factors there is huge untapped potential for Bangladesh sewing thread sector. Global textile and apparel market is observing an unstable situation as the trade

war between the US and China is escalating. The US companies are coming more to Bangladesh for business. And China is moving out of the textile business, which is a golden opportunity for Bangladesh.

Considering these factors, the sewing thread sector will expand.

And in the new economic zones, most investors are interested in the textiles and apparel sector.

Meaning the future of the sewing thread sector bright.

Transforming Human Capital

Certificate on

Marketing Skill to unlock enormous Career opportunities COURSES UNDER THIS SOFT SKILL DEVELOPMENT CERTIFICATE Strategic Marketing for Sales Excellence Relationship Marketing Digital Marketing Sales Management & Succession Planning for Sales Brand & Retail Marketing

Contact: 01734 211085, Visit- https://training.textiletoday.com.bd

A p p a r e l To d a y

Circular Fashion

Apparel waste: annual export earnings jump to $5 million Sayeed Abdullah Apparel waste or ‘Jhuta’ business is fetching a hopeful sum of US$ 5 million annually. If these wastes are recycled for making new yarns and used in re-manufacturing garments, it will be a business of more than $4 billion, the sector people expressed.

Figure 1: annually the apparel waste reprocessing products sector is exporting $5 million.

The idea is to turn the scraps into materials importantly demanded in the fashion world. And simultaneously dealing with two purposes – business growth and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

the hazardous issue of waste management.

BGMEA exVice-President Mahmud Hasan Khan said, “There are two categories of ‘Jhuta’, one is from woven fabric another is from knit fabric. The price of ‘Woven Jhuta’ is low but the price of ‘Knit Jhuta’ is comparatively high. Because, after reprocessing of ‘Knit Jhuta’ it is easy to bring to cotton or fiber stages.”

“They are sold as an alternative to cotton in the local market. The advantage is that cotton prices are high but these are low. Those who are low income people get to benefit from this,” Mahmud Hasan further added.

The key source of raw material in the entire business comes from leftover fabrics and other accessories of export-oriented garment factories in Dhaka and

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Around 50 lakh people have their livelihood with this business.

Jhuta goes to almost 40 countries of the world.

Annually earning 12 to 15 billion BDT Gazipur.

“The regenerated yarn can seize the emerging market in developed parts of the world, with people becoming more sensitive to environmental impacts caused by industrial pollution,” said Fazlul Hoque, Managing Director of Plummy Fashions Ltd. Bangladesh RMG industry is one of the leaders in the sustainable waste management system. One good example is Simco Spinning and Textiles Ltd founded in 2010.

It has the capacity to produce 15 tonnes of yarn a day from ‘cotton

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A p p a r e l To d a y

clips’ that are cut out during the garment stitching process.

‘Jhuta’ traders say that around 50 lakh people have their livelihood with this business. There are more women workers than men in the shops. And the workers of this sector earn more than of RMG workers. Each worker earns Tk 500 to Tk 600 a day, said Abdullah, a cutting master of a factory.

In Pabna district, hundreds of

Circular Fashion

small entrepreneurs in a number of villages have created jobs for 25,000 to 30,000 people and annually produce 18 crore to 20 crore pieces of garments, mostly T-shirts, worth around Tk 1,200 crore to Tk 1,500 crore.

Manufacturers Group.

The factories have to go face some challenges also. One of those is the increasing prices of Jhuta resulting from a monopoly on the business by a syndicate.

Abdus Salam, a small trader in Komorpur village, says small hosiery traders do not get soft loans or cash credit loans. “We borrow money from other sources at high interest rates.”

“Initially, hosiery manufacturers used to sell their products in the local market. Now the T-shirts are exported to India, Malaysia, and Bhutan,” said Barik Hossain Jony, President of Pabna Hosiery

Bangladesh gets one of the lowest prices in US apparel market Akhi Akter

Per SME from Malaysia fetched $5.37, Laos $4.98, Indonesia $3.81, Myanmar $3.08, Vietnam $3.28, and Thailand $2.88.

Bangladesh has not been receiving high prices because the local exporters are mainly competing in some particular items like woven shirts and bottoms that have many competitors, said industry leaders.

As the buyers have alternatives, so they do want to pay low prices.

However, a few new competitors like Myanmar and Ethiopia are managing better prices than Bangladesh although they are far beyond in compliance.

“After the Rana Plaza building collapse Bangladesh apparel sector has been improved a lot.

But the positive image is not 102

(Price value in US $)

explored properly in the west,” said Robin Razon Sakhawat, Director of Robintext Group.

“We are working to brighten the image of the country as we have been following compliance strictly and strengthening workplace safety,” said Sharif Zahir, director of the Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA).

Bangladesh needs improving its rankings in the World Bank’s ease of doing business index and manufacturing value-added garment items.

“Bangladesh government will have to substantially improve

3.28

2.45

1410.33

1930.71

1515.95

1873.63

2524.87

Value/square meter equivalent

2.39

0

2.79

500

3.08

1000

2.81

1500

2.88

2000

1878.19

2586.82

2500

3180.19

3000

2545.63

3500

2.35

The Chinese and Ethiopian exporters were paid lesser $2.35 and $2.45 per SME respectively where the Turkish exporters were paid the highest: $7.38 per SME.

Garments’ price of different countries in USA market

7.38

Bangladeshi garment items were paid $2.79 per unit or per square meter equivalent (SME) in the US market in 2018, which is one of the lowest prices among the other garment trading nations in the world. The Office of the Textiles and Apparel (OTEXA) in the US data is showing this.

Value/100kg

the ease of doing business. At the moment Bangladesh is one of the lowest performers on ease of doing business, it is 176 out of 190 countries,” said Peter Fahrenholtz, German Ambassador to Bangladesh.

Only 20 percent of the exports now are value-added garment items. Bangladesh will get more prices if it manufactures outwear, lingerie, jackets, suits etc.

Human capital transformation is must as the efficiency level of workers is enhanced. It is nearly 50 percent whereas in other countries it is 80 percent, said Robin Razon Sakhawat

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Exclusive Interview

Being a country of the highest wastage and lower productivity, how do we ask higher price?

Kyaw Sein Thay (Dolly), Director of Merchandising, MGF Sourcing Far East Ltd (Dhaka, Bangladesh) Kyaw Sein Thay (Dolly) is one of the most successful professionals in the Bangladesh apparel industry with an enormous experience of 20 years in merchandising and marketing. She completed her Master of Business Administration from Victoria University of Technology, Melbourne, Australia.

Presently she is working at MGF Sourcing Far East Ltd (Dhaka, Bangladesh) as Director of Merchandising.

She also worked at Coolcat, PVH and Li & Fung (BD) Ltd in her long time merchandising career. In a recent conversation with Textile Today, she shared her success story and showed the path to achieve competence in professional life.

Textile Today: Why have you chosen your career in merchandising 20 years back when any graduates never think to build a career in the apparel industry?

Kyaw Sein Thay: My elder sister was in Li & Fung Limited and it was totally her motivation that I came in this sector. She inspired me, and I found the apparel sector to be the stair of the opportunity to build a long-time career. Being a young lady, I was also excited to travel to a foreign country and to work people of different nationality. Finally, I established my career in merchandising and now I believe I am successful.

Textile Today: Being a woman did

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you receive any privileges in your career?

buying house or in the garment industry they are not good.

Kyaw Sein Thay: In my profession, I never received any privilege to be a woman but socially I received help and support from all my male colleagues. But when comes the question of competency and promotion in terms of performance I had to prove my ability.

A girl who is working with foreigners or going to abroad alone for a business trip was treated badly. We were in the social taboo 20 years ago but the present situation is improving and now many females are working in the buying house as well as in the garment industry.

Textile Today: What social obligation you faced in your longtime career path?

Textile Today: Do you think corporate quota in the work place for the female employee can make them more capable?

Kyaw Sein Thay: When I started a career that time our social norms were not favorable for a female to work in the garment industry. It was a common belief in the society that female who is working in the

Kyaw Sein Thay: I think girls should not have to take privilege from corporate quota rather work hard and gather knowledge so that they can stand on their own

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

A p p a r e l To d a y

Exclusive Interview

feet and prove competency. In this case, the society also has to change the attitude that girls are taking privilege in the corporate job rather come forward to build their capacity and reduce dependency.

Textile Today: You are from the non-textile background and also a female professional. So, how could you manage to be sound technically in merchandising?

Kyaw Sein Thay: The people those were sound technically during my early career were not much in quantity. So to upgrade technical knowledge or to understand the difficult technical process was really not easy.

But I was quite lucky to receive guidance and knowledge from my bosses who were Sri Lankan nationalist during my staying at Li & Fung. They helped me in every possible way to improve my knowledge and experiences.

But my learning was not confined in the office room only rather I tried to broaden my knowledge up to practical ground of industry.

In my early career mostly 1st five years, I never left any opportunity to visit industry and always try to discover the unknown technical process.

Textile Today: It is said that Bangladeshi apparel professionals are not capable enough, So many foreign experts are engaged in the country’s apparel industry.

How can Bangladeshi apparel professionals improve their professional expertise?

Kyaw Sein Thay: We have to remove the barrier between education and the industry. All the technical institute has to take consolidate the program to create more technical experts. Selecting people to give expertise training and gradually employ them in the industry to takeover most responsible job can be an easy way to improve the situation.

According to a statistic, there are at least six lac foreigners are

Bangladesh Textile Today |

working in Bangladesh and nearly 10 billion USD is going to derange from the sector. We can reduce the quantity by expertise training from the local people at least to 5% by year.

Textile Today: Some young people, mostly females are working in the overseas buyer’s office those are playing important role in makinga decision and running the business but most of the young generation in our country are not much capable to play the same role. What is your opinion?

 Bangladesh is the 2nd largest garment exporter after china but we are not in a good position for negotiation. Negotiation can be effective and successful when you will know your position to the counterpart. If they are not ready to listen to your word or if you are not important enough to them you will never win in the negotiation.

Kyaw Sein Thay: Young professionals can play their power and domination in the developed country even though they are below age 25. But in the same age, most of the young people in our country are not able to play the same role because of two reasons, one is a lake of root cause analysis and the second is not to think strategically.

Before any professional meeting root cause analysis is important as well as keeping all the strategic data. The root cause analysis is to gather various information

Volume 12, Issue 06

on the coming question and to keep answer ready to drive a successful business meeting.

The young professionals should also understand how to derive a business meeting as well as to run it up to the successful end.

Textile Today: Bangladeshi garment manufacturers are saying in the context of fair price buyers are not ready to pay though all the demands to improve work place safety and upgrade wages already implemented. What is your opinion?

Kyaw Sein Thay: Bangladesh is the 2nd largest garment exporter after china but we are not in a good position for negotiation.

Negotiation can be effective and successful when you will know your position to the counterpart. If they are not ready to listen to your word or if you are not important enough to them you will never win in the negotiation.

We see Vietnam is potentially competing with Bangladesh in the American market, and they will supersede us by next year and has taken 80 billion export target by 2025. The production efficiency is now more than 77% in the garment manufacturing unit in Vietnam.

On the contrary Bangladesh position is, height level of wastage in production. Even some factories are not able to give proper inventory over the wastage quantity also.

We must have to understand all the wastage is our money. Being a country of the highest wastage, the lower rate of efficiency in production how do we ask the buyer for the higher price?

If Vietnam or Sri Lanka can offer a competitive price on their best capability and efficiency how do we ask the better price without improving the above area. If the factory says the buyer is not ready to pay more for the wages hike that means factory does not have the tools to negotiate with the buyers.

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M e d i c a l Te x t i l e s

Surgical sutures, the most common implantable medical textiles Md. Shahjalal & Shah Md. Maruf Hasan; Lecturer (Textile Engineering), Northern University Bangladesh Surgical suture is a medical device used to hold body tissues together after injury or surgery.

The application generally involves using a needle with an attachable length of thread.

Biocompatibility is of prime importance, if the textile materials are to be accepted by the body and following four key factors will determine how the body reacts to the implants: 1) The most important factor is porosity which determines the rate at which human tissue will grow and encapsulate the implant.

2) Small circular fibers are better encapsulated with human tissue than larger fibers with irregular cross sections.

3) Toxic substances must not be released by the fiber polymers and the fibers should be free from surface contamination like lubricants and sizing agents.

4) The property will influence the success of the implantation in terms of its biodegradability.

Types of sutures The different types of sutures can be classified in many ways. First, suture material can be classified as either absorbable or nonabsorbable. Absorbable sutures do not require a doctor to remove them. This is because enzymes found in the tissues of a human body naturally digest them.

Non-absorbable sutures will need to be removed by a doctor at a later date or in some cases left in permanently.

Second, the suture material can be classified according to the actual structure of the material.

Monofilament sutures consist of

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Figure: Surgical suture

a single thread. This allows the suture to more easily pass through tissues.

Braided sutures consist of several small threads braided together.

This can lead to better security, but at the cost of the increased potential for infection.

Third, sutures can be classified as either being made from natural or synthetic material. However, since all suture material is sterilized, this distinction is not particularly useful.

Types of absorbable sutures • Gut: This natural monofilament suture is used for repairing internal soft tissue wounds or lacerations. The gut should not be used for cardiovascular or neurological procedures. The body has the strongest reaction to this suture and will often scar over. It is not commonly used outside of gynecological surgery.

• Polydioxanone (PDS): This synthetic monofilament suture can be used for many types of soft tissue wound repair (such as abdominal closures) as well as for pediatric cardiac procedures.

• Poliglecaprone (MONOCRYL): This synthetic monofilament suture is used for general use in soft tissue repair. This material should not be used for cardiovascular or neurological procedures. This suture is most

commonly used to close the skin in an invisible manner.

• Polyglactin (Vicryl): This synthetic braided suture is good for repairing hand or facial lacerations. It should not be used for cardiovascular or neurological procedures.

Types of non-absorbable sutures Some examples of non-absorbable sutures can be found below. These types of sutures can all be used generally for soft tissue repair, including for both cardiovascular and neurological procedures.

• Nylon- a natural monofilament suture.

• Polypropylene (Prolene)- a synthetic monofilament suture.

• Silk- a braided natural suture.

• Polyester (Ethibond)- a braided synthetic suture.

Suture selection and techniques There are many different suture techniques. Some of them are: Continuous sutures: This technique involves a series of stitches that use a single strand of suture material. This type of suture can be placed rapidly and is also strong, since tension is distributed evenly throughout the continuous suture strand.

Interrupted sutures: This suture technique uses several strands of

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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M e d i c a l Te x t i l e s

suture material to close the wound. After a stitch is made, the material is cut and tied off. This technique leads to a securely closed wound. If one of the stitches breaks, the remainder of the stitches will still hold the wound together.

Deep sutures: This type of suture is placed under the layers of tissue below (deep) the skin. They may either be continuous or interrupted. This stitch is often used to close fascial layers.

Buried sutures: This type of suture is applied so that the suture knot is found inside (that is, under or within the area that is to be closed off). This type of suture is typically not removed and is useful when large sutures are used deep into the body.

Purse-string sutures: This is a type of continuous suture that is placed around an area and tightened much like the drawstring on a bag. For example, this type of suture would be used in your intestines in order to secure an intestinal stapling device.

The manufacturing processes of surgical suture Preparation of raw polymer-

Raw polymers are combined (polymerized), forced through a die and discharged as tinny pellets.

Forming individual filaments by extruder machine -

The machine melts the polymer, and the liquid flows through the tiny spinneret (looking something like a shower head) forming many individual filaments.

Drawing of filaments-

After extrusion, the filaments are stretched between two rollers. The filaments stretch to as much as five times their original length.

Manufacturing of sutures-

Some sutures are produced as monofilaments. Others are braided or twisted. To braid the suture, the extruded monofilament is wound onto bobbins.

Secondary processing-

After braiding, the suture undergoes several stages of secondary processing. Nonbraided sutures will also go through these steps after extrusion and initial stretching. This step might take only a few minutes. The suture passes over a hot plate, and any lumps, snags, or imperfections are ironed out.

Annealing-

The annealing oven subjects the suture to high heat and tension, which actually orders the crystalline structure of the polymer fiber into a long chain.

Coating-

After annealing, the suture may be coated. The coating material varies depending on what the suture is made of. Absorbable coatings include Poloxamer 188 and calcium stearate with a glycolide-lactide copolymer. Nonabsorbable sutures may be coated with wax, silicone, fluorocarbon, or polytetramethylene adipate.

Quality control-

This step the suture conforms to the proper diameter, length, and strength, look for physical defects, and check the dissolvability of an absorbable suture in animal and test-tube tests. If the batch passes all the tests, it is shipped.

Surgical needle preparation-

The surgical needles are made at another plant, and also shipped to the finishing plant. The needles are made of fine steel wire, and drilled lengthwise.

Sterilization-

Next, the suture and attached needle are inserted into a foil packet and sterilized. Sterilization differs according to the suture material.

Subcutaneous sutures: These sutures are placed in the dermis, the layer of tissue that lies below the upper layer of human skin. Short stitches are placed in a line that is parallel to a wound. The stitches are then anchored at either end of the wound.

Raw materials Natural sutures are made of catgut or reconstituted collagen, or from cotton, silk, or linen. Synthetic absorbable sutures may be made of polyglycolic acid, a glycolide-lactide copolymer; or polydioxanone, a copolymer of glycolide and trimethylene carbonate. These different polymers are marketed under specific trade names.

Synthetic nonabsorbable sutures may be made of polypropylene, polyester, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, polyamide, different proprietary nylons, or Goretex. Some sutures are also made of stainless steel.

Suture removal When sutures are removed will depend on where they are on a human body. According to American Family Physician, some general guidelines are as follows: • scalp: 7 to 10 days • face: 3 to 5 days • chest or trunk: 10 to 14 days • arms: 7 to 10 days • legs: 10 to 14 days • hands or feet: 10 to 14 days • palms of hands or soles of feet: 14 to 21 days To remove sutures, the doctor will first sterilize the area. They’ll pick up one end of a suture and cut it, trying to stay as close to the skin as possible. Then, they’ll gently pull out the suture strand.

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Brands & Retail

New report shows more than 50% of consumers plan to switch to more eco-friendly brands Sayed Abdullah Pulse of the fashion industry 2019 report published by the Global Fashion Agenda and Sustainable Apparel Coalition in partnership with Boston Consulting Group showed that more than 50% of consumers plan to switch brands in the future if another brand acts more environmentally.

The report also showed the fashion industry is still far from sustainable. The findings demonstrate that fashion companies are not implementing sustainable solutions fast enough to counterbalance the negative environmental and social impacts of the rapidly growing fashion industry.

If the Pulse Score stays on its current trajectory, the gap between industry output and the Pulse Score will widen.

As a result, if the industry does not implement changes at a faster rate, it will not be able to achieve the United Nations Sustainable Development Goals1 or meet the Paris Agreement2.

Today’s consumers are taking note of fashion brands’ sustainability focus as well. The Pulse report showed shoppers are increasingly interested in fashion brands’ eco-friendly efforts, with 75% of consumers indicating they view sustainability as either extremely or very important to them.

Pulse score The 2019 Pulse Score increased +4pt from last year, compared to +6pt in 2018. This means that measurable progress decreased by 1/3.

Companies in the first quartile slowed in their trajectory this year due to increased challenges in scaling up proven measures into deeper tiers of their supply chains, in inventing and scaling

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transformative technologies and in achieving tangible results from collaborative initiatives. This result needs to be viewed with nuance since players at this level already have high scores, historically, have made strong progress, and their ongoing work does not necessarily immediately translate into Pulse Score gains.



mainly driven by small mid-price and medium-entry-price players by adopting sustainable strategy development and governance, by setting targets in energy, chemicals and water savings, and by aligning association affiliations.

Consumer sentiment • 75% of consumers surveyed view sustainability as extremely or very important.

• Mentions of sustainability in social media increased a third faster than overall social media growth between 2015 and 2018.

Today’s consumers are taking note of fashion brands’ sustainability focus as well. The Pulse report showed shoppers are increasingly interested in fashion brands’ ecofriendly efforts, with 75% of consumers indicating they view sustainability as either extremely or very important to them.

• Consumers mostly acquire information about sustainability issues through an online search (35%), social media (31%) and non-digital print media (29%).

• The strongest triggers for conscious behavior concerning sustainability are climate change efforts (50%), natural disasters (49%).

The report said that in the second quartile, progress slowed.

Nevertheless, efforts are visible: companies report that they are dedicated to sustainability, and they are investing in supplier relationships, supply chain traceability, an improved material mix and changes to their business model towards circularity. Yet, they face additional challenges, as the required resources, capabilities, funding and advanced technologies in the aforementioned areas are not yet fully established.

Players in the third performance quartile saw the largest year-onyear improvements which were

• More than a third of consumer’s report they have already switched from their preferred brand to another because it credibly stands for positive environmental and/or social practices.

• More than 50% of consumers plan to switch brands in the future if another brand acts more environmentally and socially friendly than their preferred one.

• However, consumer considerations of sustainable practices are not yet powerful enough to be the most important driver of purchasing behavior.

The fashion industry must overcome its roadblocks to achieve more substantial improvements that lead to a systemic change. Solving the challenges of scaling and innovating disruptive technologies is a necessity for future progress.

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Volume 12, Issue 06

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Take supports from the largest knowledge platform & industry experts Analyzing business process & setting SOP Organization building & job description preparation Job opening & promotion Head hunting & initial interview Shortlisted candidates Matchmaking & recruitment

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Brands & Retail

World's largest apparel company in 2019 is Christian Dior followed by Nike and Inditex Desk Report The Forbes Global 2000 announced 17th annual ranking of the top 2,000 public companies in the world for the year 2019.

Christian Dior is now the planet's largest apparel company, followed

by Nike and Inditex.

The ranking is based on a mix of four metrics: sales, profit, assets and market value. Of the 61 countries represented on the list, the United States is home to the largest number, 575 companies.

China and Hong Kong were next with 309, followed by Japan with 223. The breakdown looks very different than it did when Forbes first published the Global 2000 in 2003.

Luxury fashion empire Christian Dior gained as the world's largest company focused on clothing, shoes and accessories.

Its sales rose by double digits to $55 billion in 2018. The fashion house benefits from a 41% stake in its parent company, LVMH, which owns

analysts cautioned about.

World's three largest apparel company in 2019

70 luxury brands including Louis Vuitton, Dom PĂŠrignon and Sephora.

Dior is the French luxury group posted an increase of 16% for the first quarter of 2019 compared with the same period last year, with total revenues for the quarter totaling over $14 billion.

The business group with the biggest increase percentage was the fashion and leather goods division, which posted a 20% increase (15% on an organic basis).

Overall, the company said, all geographic regions are experiencing good growth, which would presumably qualm any lingering fears of a Chinese slowdown that

The second-largest apparel company is the Nike on its 17th annual ranking list. The company's return to growth and its buzzy Colin Kaepernick ad campaign have helped fuel the stock, which locked in a 19% gain in 2018.

Rounding out the top three is Inditex, the Spanish fast-fashion giant that owns Zara as reported Forbes Global 2000.

But Nike ranks No. 14 on Forbes 2019 World’s Most Valuable Brand list, while Adidas comes in No. 61.

Companies like Lululemon and Foot Locker are gaining ground, they aren't exactly close to dislodging the world's apparel giants from their perch. Lululemon jumped a whopping 668 spots to No. 1480 and Foot Locker, which opened its first store in California in 1974, jumped 699 spots to No. 1671.

Transforming Human Capital

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to unlock enormous Career opportunities

COURSES UNDER THIS SOFT SKILL DEVELOPMENT CERTIFICATE SOP and Organization Development Human Capital Statement and Compensation Management Recruitment Management Labor Law, HR Regulation & Training Need Assessment Performance Management & Appraisal 110

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Contact: 01734 211085, Visit- https://training.textiletoday.com.bd

Volume 12, Issue 06

Aleya Aktar, Head of HR, Admin & Compliance of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd (Viyellatex Group).

What are the roles of an HR in textile industry?

FT Research Team In the textile industry, an HR head or manager has many important roles to play because here more than a thousand people work in a single factory. So, it is really a tough job here. Textile Today revealed here the general story of an HR personnel of the textile industry. Aleya Aktar, Head of HR, Admin & Compliance of Interfab Shirt Manufacturing Ltd (Viyellatex Group) answered some questions on the role of an HR in the textile industry.

Textile Today: What are the core responsibilities of an HR in the textile industry?

Aleya Aktar: We all know that the textile industry consists of a large number of people. Without proper management of these people, an organization can’t think of any progress and development. In this regard, an HR professional plays a vital role. The duties of an HR in the textile industry include the following responsibilities: a) Employee relation and talent management b) Training and development c) Compliance and sustainability d) Compensation and benefits e) Admin and support Textile Today: What is the role of an HR in order to run a factory smoothly?

Aleya Aktar: As I have mentioned

Bangladesh Textile Today |

before, an HR decides what kind manpower will work in the factory, he/she plays the most important role in running a factory smoothly. He/she also has to keep basic knowledge about all the operations running in a factory, otherwise, he/she won’t be able to place the right person in the right place.

Textile Today: Would you please tell us what kind of challenges an HR faces?

Aleya Aktar: First of all, to be a good HR you have to understand the minds of people, how they think, reacts and acts otherwise your challenges will be endless.

I have worked in many renowned factories through my career and I found this very important. As an HR, sometimes I had to deal with local political leaders, influential persons and many others to run the factory smoothly. So, this is uncertain what challenge is coming next but you have to be ready mentally for any situation.

An HR always have to communicate with the Managing Director of a factory, if it is a foreign owned company then you must have to learn that language in some cases for smooth communication. Handling unrest situations is a common but sensitive challenge for every HR professional.

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There are actually many challenges daily especially in the textile industry, so you have to be positive and strong.

Textile Today: What kind of role an HR has in buyer handling?

Aleya Aktar: What I do in dealing with buyers is to try to keep my eye on if the buyer demand is logical or not. I try to negotiate everything properly and keep in mind that both parties are benefitted.

In the textile industry, one factory works with more than one buyer at a time. Their demands are also unlike, so we have to balance all the buyer's demand and bring them in one point.

Textile Today: What are the strengths of Viyellatex Group?

Aleya Aktar: We always try to focus on quality but not quantity.

For this, we do not work with random buyers. We try to maintain a certain standard. We always look forward to developing a long-term relationship with buyers. We also focus on managing the 3P’s on our business: People, planet and profit.

Textile Today: What kind of suggestions would you give to the new HRs? Aleya Aktar: My suggestion is more women should come to this sector. Because there are tremendous opportunities here for them.

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Fabric Care

Production of antimicrobial textiles: a new horizon for textile industry Redwanul Hasan Antimicrobial textiles are not a new idea. Foreign Countries have launched this idea in their textile industries. Specially the apparels which are used in sportswear and the textiles which are used in medical sectors are needed for antimicrobial function. Actually, the textiles which are not attracted by bacteria is called antimicrobial textiles. The article is written based on a research paper that has been published recently.

The research author researched about antimicrobial textiles by using copper oxide nanoparticles.

This is one of the helpful ways of making antimicrobial textiles in industry. We know in nanoscience and nanotechnology 1-100 nanometers particles are used. The development of the antimicrobial textiles using copper oxide nanoparticles are a present work in this paper.

The Copper nanoparticles were prepared by wet chemical method and were directly applied on to the 100% cotton woven fabric using pad dry-cure method.

The antibacterial activity of the

a ) Cuo Nanoparticles treated fabric. b) Cuo bulk treated fabric . c) untreated fabric (control) in S. aureus.

finished fabrics was assessed qualitatively by agar diffusion method and parallel streak method. It is quantitatively measured by

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percentage reducing test. The experimental results shows that finished fabric takes 100% antibacterial ability against S.aureus. Elaborately discussed in research paper. Below I want to show antibacterial assessment by agar diffusion method: It is clear that CuO nanoparticles treated fabric showed higher antibacterial activity when compared with CuO bulk treated fabrics whereas the untreated fabrics showed no antibacterial activities. There are lots of test done in this research paper like, antibacterial assessment by percentage reduction test and wash durability test. Below I can give some pictures of antibacterial test.

Finally, it can be said that CuO nanoparicles treated cotton fabric has more antibacterial properties than CuO bulkcc coated fabric and Untreated fabric. The experiment was done by S. aureus and E.Coli bacteria. This is the new horizon for our textile industry to make antimicrobial textile.

Antimicrobial textile is highly important for medical textiles, sports wear and our daily life products. It can give us garments without smell after swelling.

Natuarl fiber and man mad fiber based apperal can be made by this process. To make the antimicrobial textiles the PH of solution,the temperature and

Fabric Treated

Organism

1. F abric treated with CuO nanoparticles

a) S. aureus b) E. Coli

2. F abric treated with CuO bulk

a) S. aureus b) E. coli

3. F abric without CuO a) S. aureus nanoparticles (control) b) E. Coli

Antimicrobial textiles by using copper oxide nanoparticles is one of the helpful ways of making antimicrobial textiles in industry. We know in nanoscience and nanotechnology 1-100 nanometers particles are used. The development of the antimicrobial textiles using copper oxide nanoparticles are a present work in this paper. solvent of reacting solution can be measered properly.

But the potential threat is to create antimicrobial textiles are nanoparticles. Nanoparticles are not available in our Bangladesh. So governmet should take necessary steps to increase research about nanoparticles. The era of technical textile is not far away from us. So we should increase technical textile based on production to hold the textile industry of Bangladesh.

[Note: The article is written based Research Paper ‘Production of antimicrobial textiles by using copper oxide nanoparticles’ published on International Journal of Contemporary Research and Review, ISSN 0976 – 4852]

Zone of inhibition (in cm) Trial -1

Trial-2

Trial -3

Mean

Range

4.9,3.4 5.3,3.2

5.4, 3.3

5.2,3.3

0.5,0.2

2.3,1.9

2.8,1.5

2.4,1.7

2.4,1.7

0.5,0.4

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

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Volume 12, Issue 06

C o t t o n To d a y

Cotton import from India downs from 60 to 26.12% Bangladesh now depends less on India for cotton and African nations become the largest source Akhi Akter India accounted for 26.12% of the total cotton imports of Bangladesh, down from more than 60 percent two years ago. A recent data of the Bangladesh Textile Mills Association (BTMA) is showing this.

Local spinners and millers look to cut down their dependence on a single source for their vital raw material. In this regard, African nations have surpassed India to become the largest source of cotton for Bangladesh.

Last year, Bangladesh imported 37.06% of its requirement for the white fiber from East and West African countries. At the same time, 11.35% of the cotton came from the CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States) countries, 11.14% from the US, 4.65% from Australia and 9.65% from the rest of the world.

The low quality of Indian cotton is the main reason behind the falling imports from the neighboring country. A section of Indian cotton traders also cannot maintain timely shipment and deliver the right quantity of cotton as per agreement.

“Indian cotton quality is not good, it is not contamination free, short staple length and other quality parameters are not good,” said Mohammad Ali Khokon, President of BTMA. For example, it is written in the letter of credit that there may be 3 to 4 percent less cotton than the amount agreed upon when the imported fiber is weighed in Bangladesh. But in many cases, it is 10 to 15 percent less.

“This is a big loss for us. We can’t afford this kind of losses. This

Bangladesh Textile Today |

is 10-12% higher than that of India’s cotton,” said Mohammad Ali Khokon.

“So, Bangladesh cotton importers have increased their importing from African counties,” Khokon concluded.

is another reason for moving away from India,” said Mehdi Ali, President of the Bangladesh Cotton Association.

The concentration of moisture in the Indian cotton is higher than in other countries’, which makes it difficult to store in the warehouses for a long time.

In order to extend local production, staterun Cotton Development Board is looking for new farming lands in hilly and swamp areas in various districts along with the existing farming areas in Jashore, Rangpur, Dinajpur, Rajshahi, Gazipur and Mymensingh.

The board hopes to produce 2.5 lakh bales of cotton by 2021, which will meet nearly 5-7% of the local consumption.

Last year, Bangladesh imported 8.28 million bales of cotton (one bale equals to 282 Kg). In dollar terms, the imports Cotton import sources for Bangladesh are worth $3 (In % of total import) Source: BTMA billion. The country 4.65 produced 1.65 lakh bales of cotton last 9.65 11.14 fiscal year, which is less than 3% of the annual demand for 10 million bales.

9+37+2611125

“We already know 11.35 that in Africa, there are three cotton zones: East Africa, West Africa, and Central 26.12 Africa. These are well known for high-quality and long staple length.  East and West Africa  India The productivity  US  Australia of Africa’s cotton

Volume 12, Issue 06

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 CIS  Rest of the world

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Calendar 2019-20 Special Sections in 2019-20 July’19

August’19

September’19

October’19

November’19

December’19

January’20

February’20

March’20

April’20

May’20

June’20

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

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Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & knitwear June 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 06 l Pages 115 to 122

Global brands are racing towards a comprehensive 3D knitting solution

Sportswear: unexplored opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel makers

Unveiling industry best practices

June 2019

Volume 12, Issue 06

115

Knitting & Knitwear

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K n i t t i n g To d a y

There are many textile mills in Bangladesh, producing various types of knit and woven fabrics. They also can produce sportswear fabric by using existing set up of machinery and manpower. They can train up their people to handle synthetic fabric production. It will help the industry to get fabric within a short period of time and ship out.

Sportswear: unexplored opportunity for Bangladeshi apparel makers Ariful Islam, Merchandiser, Toray International, Inc. Sportswear has now become a fashion trend among non-athletic people. Awareness is growing to mass people for health and fitness in developing countries and the global sportswear market is tremendously booming.

Increasing participation of women in sports and fitness activities is another major driver for this growth. In 2018, the market value of sportswear was US$ 84.1 billion.

It is predicted to be worth the US $ 108.7 billion by 2025 with CAGR of 3.3%.

Said a recent research report published by QY Research Inc. The USA, the world’s largest and most respected market research publisher.

Major trend The major trend of the sportswear

Bangladesh Textile Today |

market is the combination of sportswear with fashion. With the increasing demand for trendy sportswear, manufacturers are now launching innovative products to fulfil the market demand.

Technologies are using insulator, microfiber and nano-technologies for producing sports apparel.

Now a day’s sports apparels are not only for athletes and sports persons but also popular among consumers who are interested in sports and sports related events.

Synthetic fabrics are mostly considered to be the best choice for sportswear as they are able to provide a good combination of functional properties of moisture management, softness, lightweight, insulation and dry relatively quickly.

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Major segment Sportswear market is categorized into product type and application.

More concisely it is segmented into skirts, hats, under garments and upper garments. The proportion of upper garment in 2015 is about 52%. The sales volume of sportswear in 2015 was 2000 million units.

Market player Major market player of sportswear is Nike, Adidas, Puma, Under Armour, Lululemon, Columbia sportswear, Patagonia, Marmot, The North Face, etc.

Most of the market leader of sportswear brands like Nike, Adidas, Puma and Columbia sportswear are buying from Bangladesh. Their buying volume is increasing each year. According

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to BGMEA and EPB data, in the last fiscal year 2018, sportswear export value was 10% of total export value US$ 30.62 billion.

Bangladesh’s perspective on sportswear production Bangladesh is an expert on mostly cotton and cotton blended items. There are few textile mills that can produce the synthetic fabric. Sportswear manufacturers are mainly depending on imported fabric.

Leading athletic apparel, accessoroes & footwear companies in 2018 by sales (million $) 40000 35000 30000

26.265

25000 20000 15000 10000

5.251

5000

“I have received a lot of work orders for sportswear garment items recently, but I do not have the fabrics. So, I have to import the fabrics from China,” a former VisePresident of BGMEA said.

The imported fabric needs a long lead time. So, it is sometimes difficult for the garment factory to get orders from the customer.

There are many textile mills in Bangladesh, producing various types of knit and woven fabrics.

They also can produce sportswear fabric by using existing set up of machinery and manpower. They can train up their people to handle synthetic fabric production. It will help the industry to get fabric within a short period of time and ship out.

“We lack in technical knowhow and we have a shortage of expert people to produce the synthetic fabric. Maintaining fabric quality during dyeing is the main challenge. We need more specialized machinery for ensuring customer required quality, which needs more investment. The owners of the textiles sometimes are not willing to invest more,” said Habibur Rahman, General Manager (Fabric), Northern Tosrifa Group.

Bangladesh can easily handle sportswear fabric manufacturing.

The same machinery which is using for cotton fabric 118

35.285

5.042

2.779

2.530

0

for synthetic fabric dyeing. Heat setting before dyeing can fix the dye stuff strongly in order to break the molecule during high pressure dyeing and finishing. High quality dyes are recommended for good color fastness. Other physical properties also can ensure by following careful handling of the dyeing stage.

 Most of the market leader of sportswear brands like Nike, Adidas, Puma and Columbia sportswear are buying from Bangladesh. Their buying volume is increasing each year.

According to BGMEA and EPB data, in the last fiscal year 2018, sportswear export value was 10% of total export value US$ 30.62 billion.

Habibur Rahman also emphasized on increasing number of synthetic yarn spinning mills. There are 425 spinning mills in Bangladesh but only 3-4 spinning mills are producing synthetic yarn. So, sportswear makers have to import synthetic yarn, especially from China.

“We are not competitive in terms of fabric prices with China due to this,” said Habibur Rahman.

manufacturing can be used for synthetic fabric except for the jacquard and seamless items.

For jacquard and seamless items require sophisticated machine settings and expert people. The machine is needed to remove sharp edges avoid pulling of yarn from fabric as these mostly uses filament yarn. Gloves can be used during the handling of fabric.

Special dyes and chemicals selection are important points

“To reduce the fabric price, we need to set up dedicated textile mills, who will produce only synthetic fabric. Which will consume the big volume of yarn, dyes, and chemicals, reducing the cost. Transportation cost of yarn and dyes-chemicals is swelling the fabric manufacturing cost.”

“Most branded chemical manufacturers have plants in China those are helping Chinese supplier for reducing fabric manufacturing cost. Our entrepreneurs should deeply consider this and can invest more on these types of Primary Textile Sector (PTS),” Habibur Rahman concluded.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

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Volume 12, Issue 06

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Sweater

Sweater manufacturers are switching over to automated production system FT Research Team A technological shift has been taking place in the country’s readymade garment sector especially in sweater segment as manufacturers are switching over to an automated production system, industry people said.

The main purposes behind the shift are to grab the growing demands for value-added items, increase the productivity of their units and also avoid any untoward labor unrest that took place over wage issues.

A good number of sweater units have already installed the required machines for automation, while some are installing and others are actively considering it, industry insiders said.

The sweater factory workers get their wage on the basis of piecerate - the number of pieces they produce daily - and the rate is not fixed in the sector. Usually, it is the owners, who fix the piece-rate.

Industry people said they import the automatic machines, mainly from Germany, Japan, and China. Chinese machines are comparatively cheaper than those of Germany and Japan.

According to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), about 786 sweater factories are being operated in the country, employed around 7,00,000 workers.

In 1985, a sweater factory with 366 machines first set up in the country with creating employment for some 570 workers, according to the trade body.

Jersey, pullover, cardigans and waistcoats are the major items shipped to the European Union, the USA and Canada. France, Germany, Italy, UK, Spain and Poland are the major EU markets while Japan and Russia are the potential non-traditional markets for locally made sweater items, industry people said.

Exports earnings from sweater items are also increasing each year.

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and other compliance issues,” he said.

A manual machine costs only $300 to $700 where an automated jacquard machine ranged between $2,000 to $30,000, Fazlee Shamim Ehsan, Figure: Export earnings from sweater items stood at $3.67 Vice President of billion in the fiscal year of 2017-18, making the items top Bangladesh Knitwear five readymade garments (RMG) items.

Manufacturers and Exporters Association The country earned only $70.41 (BKMEA) said. million in the fiscal year of 1995According to the BKMEA leader 96 from sweater items exports, almost all sweater factories have according to Export Promotion installed the automated machine, Bureau (EPB) data. many of them might not go for Now the earnings from sweater full automation. This is because items stood at $3.67 billion in to address labor issues including the fiscal year of 2017-18, making shortage of workers, possible the items top five readymade unrest over payment. garments (RMG) items.

Though automation resulted in job Moshiul Azam Shajal, Managing loss of workers, it has increased Director of Fame Sweaters productivity, help producing more Ltd, said many of the sweater designed based sweater items with factories have invested a huge embroidery and value-added items. amount of money in setting The BGMEA leader explained that automated system in their units an automated Jacquard machine in recent years mainly to increase is not only able to produce productivity and reduce the cost diversified and fashionable related to workers and others. products, but can also fabricate “But exports are not increasing as critical designs, not possible with required as we are not getting fair the manual ones. price of products in line with the “Complexities over the payment of investment made in automation workers are mainly experienced in BD’s sweater export growth to the knitting sector, and automation is largely taking place in this world (Source: EPB) segment,” said Mohammad Hatem, Year Growth a former leader of Bangladesh 2008-2009 26.09% Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

2009-2010 -3.40% 2010-2011

38.59%

2011-2012

-5.94%

2012-2013

11.98%

2013-2014

11.91%

2014-2015

-3.54%

2015-2016

12.49%

2016-2017

5.63%

2017-2018

9.32%

A manual machine needs one operator and can produce a maximum of five pieces a day.

On the other hand, an automatic machine, operated by a single operator, can produce about 30 pieces a day, he explained. So, many owners are opting for those expensive automatic machines to remain cost competitive in the long run.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 06

K n i t t i n g Te c h n o l o g y

Global brands are racing towards a comprehensive 3D knitting solution Pailung Machinery Mill Co. Ltd. — and fully automating shoe upper manufacturing.

In recent years, consumer preferences have quickly swayed towards knitted shoe uppers due to two different yet related phenomena. First, as environmental consciousness penetrates societies around the world, demand for leather shoes is also declining considerably, resulting in a subsequent increase in demand for textile-based shoes.

Second, an acute cultural shift towards athleticism and wellness has manifested itself in rising demand for athletic footwear. In response, manufacturers began focusing even more heavily on knitted shoe upper production.

In 2012, Nike and Adidas both launched a line of virtually seamless, knitted shoes, and were met with incredible success. Not only does the seamless design provide an almost “second-skin” feel, but removing cutting from the production process has significantly cut down on waste — 60% in the case of the Nike FlyKnit — while simultaneously reducing labor hours and environmental impact, improving inventory management, accelerating to market time, and allowing for ultimate customization.

However, there are still distinct limitations to current seamless knitting technology. First, while the process is markedly less labor intensive than traditional cut-and-sew methods, it is not yet fully automated.

In search of a more perfect solution, shoe upper manufacturers are looking to 3D knitting, which promises to all but eliminate human labor from the production process and break through the seamless knitted shoe bottleneck.

Fully automated production At present, a factory with 100 flat knitting machines will need at least 200 people to handle subsequent finishing work, because current production processes continue to

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Lower environmental impact Raw materials also represent a considerable expense in the shoe manufacturing process, which is only aggravated by extreme fabric waste. Warp knitting machines, for example, waste around 2025% of fabric during production (an equivalent of approximately 132.6 tons per million pairs).

Using 3D knitting solutions, each upper is completed individually and requires no cutting or sewing post-production, resulting in a completely seamless shoe upper — and reducing waste by as much as 60%, in the case of the Nike FlyKnit.

rely on labor-intensive cutting and sewing steps. As such, labor costs for global shoe manufacturers remain stubbornly high.

While the seamless knitting production method demonstrated

by Nike and Adidas has eliminated cutting from the post-production process — significantly reducing labor — it is not yet fully automated. After a seamless shoe upper is knitted, each shoe upper still needs to be individually heat-set, and then sewn to the insole. This labor-intensive postproduction process presents a considerable obstacle towards further developing seamless shoe upper manufacturing.

3D seamless knitting technology may be exactly what the industry needs to solve this problem. This new technology enables flat knitting machines to produce a complete shoe upper — ready to be directly connected to the sole — with a single machine. This leap in knitting technology presents an exciting possibility of completely eliminating labor-dependent cutting, sewing and heat-setting from the shoe production process

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Furthermore, replacing leather with textiles has a positive impact on the environment. While leather shoes only account for a quarter of overall footwear production, they are responsible for an estimated 30-80% of global impacts on all metrics, including climate change, resource use and freshwater withdrawal. This is in stark contrast to textile shoes, which only represent 6-21% of total impact in the same categories.

Faster to market time Matt Powell, a well-known sneaker expert and vice president of the market-research firm NPD, believes traditional marketing and distribution plans are unable to keep pace with modern consumer preferences. In an interview with Quartz, he noted that average concept-to-market time is approximately 18 months, if everything goes smoothly (which it rarely does). At the same time, fashion cycles are compressing.

He provides the notable example of performance basketball shoes, which began to catch on in early 2012, died by mid-2015.

If the lifecycle of modern trends has been compressed to just

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3.5 years, the concept-tomarket process will need to be adjusted accordingly. The Adidas Speedfactory is one attempt to close this gap. By bringing production closer to consumers, Adidas has managed to accelerate to market time by a factor of 3.

In the future, Adidas hopes their Speedfactory will be able to complement their original production lines by quickly producing limited runs of customized products, or replenishing certain products that are selling more quickly than expected. 3D knitting opens the possibility of streamlining conceptto-market time by implementing a realistic local production solution.

Reduce inventory costs On average, inventory costs generally represent 20-30% of the total inventory value. Even the most accomplished inventory managers are unable to bring inventory costs down to zero, partly because it’s so difficult to accurately predict how well or poorly a certain item will sell.

Overstocking unpopular items is a big source of loss for many retailers, and is a pain point many are looking to resolve.

3D knitting offers a solution to the inventory problem. Rather than estimate consumer demand months ahead of time — and risk losses due to unsold inventory — 3D knitting opens the possibility to manufacture locally according to real-time demand. While this particular solution is still in its infancy, there is plenty of potential for 3D knitting to begin developing in this direction.

More personalized As professional service companies Deloitte, McKinsey and Company, and PWC all indicate, global consumers are demanding more personalization. As such, manufacturers the world over are finding ways to deliver customized products, which has led to new sales models such as PAM, Speedfactory, and inhouse production — all of which emphasize local production and faster distribution.

This is one of the major advantages of 3D knitting.

Because 3D knitting solution offers a local production option, customers can order customized shoes and have them delivered within a few days, cutting down manufacturing and distribution

time from several months to just a few days. The Adidas Speedfactory is beginning to realize this concept on a smaller scale; in the future, they are hoping to equip each retail store with a 3D knitting machine so customers can take their foot measurements and order customized shoes in store.

The future of 3D knitting Although the entire shoe manufacturing industry is marching towards 3D knitting solutions, they still have a long way to go before they develop a comprehensive solution. For a 3D knitting solution to truly become practical, it needs to be able to knit a double-sided upper while maintaining the versatility and flexibility of shoe uppers.

The seamless shoe uppers that are in existence today have been manufactured using a slightly improved sock machine, producing an end product that is much too thin, ‘tongue-less’, and rather limited in terms of design possibilities.

As such, current technologies still require a certain amount of processing post-production.

There is still a lot of room for improvement, but it’s certainly an exciting industry to watch.

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ITMA Preview

Vanguard PaiLung at ITMA: Built for speed, made in America Vanguard Pailung’s Uwe Heintel, VP International Sales looks forward to welcoming visitors to the company’s booth at ITMA in Barcelona - Hall 8 Booth B206. © Vanguard Pailung.

Desk Report American-made Vanguard circular knitting machines are known internationally for their speed and efficiency and the Monroe, North Carolina, based company has over 100 years of experience, Established in 1916 as the Vanguard Supreme Machinery Company, the company was acquired by Taiwan’s PaiLung Machinery in 2009, creating an international organization headed by knitting innovator and visionary James Wang, whose guidance propelled PaiLung into one of the biggest circular knitting machine manufacturers in the world.

Making strides in global markets Under James Wang’s chairmanship, a new management team and an expanded network of agents are making strides in global textile markets. Besides the company’s strong presence in Central America and Mexico, where Vanguard PaiLung also operates an office for customer service, the company has successfully placed many machines in fast-growing markets such as Bangladesh, India and Southeast Asia. The company also has a solid customer base in South America, where growing sales in Brazil are an important focus for the future.

“High-volume knitting technology is in demand in these markets, and there is vast potential for our machines,” says Uwe Heintel, recently appointed VP, international sales.

First choice for major American brands According to Vanguard Pailung, its machines are firmly established

Bangladesh Textile Today |

as the choice for major North American brands such as Hanesbrands, Gildan, and Fruit of the Loom.

“True American manufacturing starts with American machinery,” says Heintel. “Vanguard is a true American story, still manufactured in North Carolina.”

Vanguard specializes in highspeed machines producing single jersey, including 4-track pattern possibilities, elastic jersey, rib, and three-end fleece models, with an emphasis on full-range machines up to 42“.

Years of innovation and ongoing research have resulted in machinery with increased production volumes and unique features. Vanguard’s high-speed machines perform in body sizes as well as in large diameters on highest speed factors up to 1900.

According to Heintel, Vanguard’s high-speed jersey machines are capable of knitting plain jersey

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at 60 rpm. The company’s jumbo high-frame machines can churn out 230 kilo rolls.

“It’s not how fast you knit; it’s how well you knit fast,” Heintel comments, paraphrasing a wellknown advertisement.

Unique opportunity for success In an era of uncertain tariffs, shifting sourcing patterns, rising prices, and narrow profit margins, Vanguard’s speed and efficiency offers mills, manufacturers, and brands a unique opportunity to be successful, the company says.

Vanguard PaiLung will exhibit its latest innovations, including a recently-developed high-speed open-width machine for elastic jersey fabrics, at ITMA, Hall 8 Booth B206.

“We welcome ITMA attendees to visit the booth and discover how Vanguard’s speed and efficiency can increase profit margins,” says Heintel.

Visit Vanguard Pailung at ITMA

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Welcome on Board!

New Textile Today Corporate Members

Textile Today congratulates and wlecomes it's newly joined Corporate Members. Corporate Members get Textile Today services in privileged scheme. All key services Textile Today Magazine, Website, Textile Today Training, Textile Today Events, Textile Today Jobs and Textile Today Classifieds everything have been brought in to one package under the Corporate Membership schemes.

More details: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/corporate-members

Masco Group - Premium Corporate Member Production capacity: Knitting 1050 tons, dyeing and finishing 1050 tons and garment 7.5 million per month.

The range of knit fabrics: Single Jersey Cotton; Pique/Double Pique; Lacoste/ Double Lacoste; CVC; Interlock; Terry Fleece; Stripe; Cotton Modal; Cotton Slub; Melange; Cotton Elastane; Cotton Polyester; Cotton Rib/ Elastane Rib; Cotton Viscos etc.

M A Sabur Chairman Masco Group

The range of garments: Polo Shirt; Kids Wears; Men’s & Ladies T-Shirt; Tank Top; Leggings; Sweat Shirt; Basic/Fancy Shirts; Children Dress; Children T-shirt; Men's Hody & Ladies Hoody, etc.

Major customers: H&M, C&A, TARGET, ZARA, Hermes, next, kmart, Esprit, MANGO

Major compliance certifications: BSCI, C-TPAT, SEDEX Membership, OEKO-TEX 100 (Class-1), the Walt Disney Certification, Organic Certificate, ECO Certificate and GOTS Certificate Environment and economic sustainability: Introducing machines with low-water consumption; reuse of condensed steam; selecting less utility consumption machine; introducing energy saving lights; use of servo motors/inverter driven machines; harvesting rain water etc.

JOB OPPORTUNITY A Renowned Denim Factory in Bangladesh is looking for a dynamic, self- motivated, proactive and enthusiastic person for the post of Head of Marketing (Fabric).

Position: Head of Marketing (Fabric) Job Responsibilities: Annual Business Plan – preparation and update on regular interval Overseeing marketing department Conduct market research and competitive analysis Develop market communication tools Technical analysis for existing & new business opportunities Planning, directing, and coordinating marketing efforts Identifying potential customers Building brand awareness and positioning Coordinating marketing projects from start to finish.

Educational Requirements Graduate from any reputed university preferably in B.Sc in Textile Engineering Experience Requirements • 10 to 12 year(s) • The applicants should have experience in the following area(s): Denim fabric production/ Marketing / Quality Control and R & D

Job Location: Dhaka Salary: Negotiable

Deadline: 30 June, 2019

Interested candidates are encouraged to send a complete resume to: sanjoy@textiletoday.com.bd Note: Please mention the job position in subject line

For details: https://jobs.textiletoday.com.bd

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Volume 12, Issue 06

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F I R E

C O N T R O L

United States of America

FULL PROTECTION FLOW CHART

RING FRAME

ROVING FRAME

Typical Gamewell-FCI S3 SeriesTM Installation

FIRE ALARM SYSTEM United States of America Optional Digital Communicator

Italy

SLC Loop

Remote Annunciator

Manual Pullstation

wittch LED Sw Switch Control

The erma ma mal Thermal Detector

Di s lay LED Disp Display Driver

e/C /Carbo bo on Fire/Carbon Monoxide Detector

Remo mote te Remote Annunciator

Inte In tell llig ig gen entt Intelligent Duct Detector

O ti t Optional 2nd Loop

NotiďŹ cation Appliance Circuit

RS485 Bus

Graphic Workstation

Ph P hot oto oto Photo Detector

H / St Horn/Strobe

Dual Du D al Input/Output Module

S St t b Strobe

Mult Mu M ltti Cr C itt Multi-Criteria Detector

H Horn rn//S /Str tr Horn/Strobe

Relay Module

P Powe we er Power Booster

Polyurethane Belts

Style 7 for Unsurpassed Survivability

Austria

Italy

Aprons & Cots

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