April 2019 | Textile Today

Bangladesh ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 April 2019

Driving business with knowledge Volume 12 |

Issue 04 | 134 Pages |

BDT 200, USD 10

April 2019

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U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Govt. should take proper policy to ensure win-win benefits from FDI

Economic Zones

See advertisement at page 25

April 2019

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A c t i v a t e Yo u r L i f e

Unveiling industry best practices

Telecomunication Banking

FDI in major sectors

Gas & Petroleum

April 2019

Textile & Apprels

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FDI hits $2.84 billion during period of Jan-Nov'18 MEZ and MIEZ – the two lucrative destinations for local and foreign investors

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Driving business with knowledge

Editorial Panel Editor in Chief Prof. Md. Monirul Islam Executive Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Ayub Nabi Khan Technical Editor Prof. Dr. Engr. Md. Saifur Rahman Dr. Engr. Md. Fazley Elahi Dr. Md. Abbas Uddin (Shiyak) Dr. Mohammad Nazmul Karim Consulting Editor Dr. NN Mahapatra Dr. Mohammed Tareque Aziz C.N. Sivaramakrishnan Ashfaque Ahmed

MARKET

LEADER Enzyme Based

in

Bio-Scouring

Associate Editor Jamal Abdun Naser Md. Mominul Motin (Tusher) Managing Editor Akhi Akter Sub Editor Sanjoy Kumar Saha Mohammad Nurul Alam Technical Team

combined Bio-scouring & Bio-polishing in same bath

Co-ordinator Setara Begum Member S.N. Abdullah Amzad Hossain Monir Rakibul Islam

Be Sustainable & Save

Editor & Publisher A.S.M Tareq Amin Published on 28th April 2019 by Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. House-41, Road-5, Block-B, Monsurabad R/A, Adabor, Dhaka-1217 Tel: +88 02 55093682 Email : info@textiletoday.com.bd Web : www.textiletoday.com.bd

Cost

Chemicals

Energy

Time

Water

Environment

Printed by: VIP Printers, Fakirapool, Dhaka.

The views expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or the editor. We accuracy. Bangladesh Textile Today does not accept any liability for claims made by advertisers or contributors. The publisher reserves the right to edit and publish any editorial material supplied and does not accept responsibility for loss or damages of any unsolicited material or contribution. Š All rights reserved to Amin & Jahan Corporation Ltd. 2018 Volume 12, Issue 04 (April 2019) Reg 8/2012, Dhaka.

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Bangladesh

Bangladesh ISSN 1999-2076 Reg. 8/2012 April 2019

Driving business with knowledge Bangladesh Textile Today

www.textiletoday.com.bd Volume 12 |

Issue 04 | 134 Pages |

BDT 200, USD 10

Power Economic Zones

See advertisement at page 25

Telecomunication Banking

FDI hits $2.84 billion during period of Jan-Nov'18 MEZ and MIEZ – the two lucrative destinations for local and foreign investors

Textile & Apprels

Driving business with knowledge

A c t i v a t e Yo u r L i f e

See advertisement at page 19

Govt. should take proper policy to ensure win-win benefits from FDI

On the Cover

FDI in major sectors

See advertisement at page 17

Gas & Petroleum

See advertisement at page 23

April 2019

ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ Mosdorf GmbH & Co. KG is a well known Germany based textile auxiliaries and specialty chemical manufacturer.

Their high performance auxiliaries are easing the textile finishing process.

Content

Advertisement

Editorial

12

26-32

April’ 19 |

Top Story

"

Volume 12 |

Factory Tales

45 Steep hike of gas prices to push the textile sector’s production cost

HR-Outsourcing: Your virtual HR department (Part-I)

Cotton Today

34 14-16

Issue 04

Editorial

What is financial discipline and how can it be achieved?

47-48

Spinning Today

Cover Story In pursuit of increased consumption of sustainable fiber that uses only ......

Power Economic Zones

Telecomunication Banking

36-40

Exclusive Interview

Gulshan Spinning achieved higher customer satisfaction for their quality products

52

Safety Today

Gas & Petroleum Textile & Apparel

Govt. should take proper policy to cash benefits from FDI

18-21

Cover Plus

Master Plan of MEGHNA ECONOMIC ZONE LIMITED Meghnaghat, Sonargaon, Narayanganj LAND USE SCHEDULE UNIT 1

UNIT 2

UNIT 3

Area (Acre)

2

18.681

7

19.316

2

10.677

11

48.674

1

0.206

1

0.273

1

0.408

3

0.887

1

0.476

1

0.162

1

0.242

1

0.098

1

0.349

Number

Area Area Area Number Number (Acre) (Acre) (Acre)

TOTAL (ALL UNITS)

Number

Industrial Plot Administrative Office Building

Feature

Community Centre

1

Bank

1

0.543

Industrial Plot

1

0.350

0.422

Staff Residence

1

0.298

Control Room & Substation

1

0.594

Effuent Treatment Plant (ETP)

1

0.386

Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

1

Solid Waste Dumping Plant (SWDP)

1

0.343

1

0.226

1

0.608

1

0.356

2

1.258

Sewage Treatment Plant (STP)

1

0.114

0.422

1

0.543

1

0.350

2

0.774

1

0.594

3

0.790

3

0.555

1

0.226

1

0.349

1

0.117

3

1.022

0.226

1

0.114

3

0.596

5

0.321

6

1.165

13

Central Fire Fighting Station

1

0.349

Water Reservoir Rain Water Harvesting Area Open Space / Green Space

1

0.297

1

1

Utility Offices (Water, Electricity, Gas etc.)

...

0.266

Security Buillding

1

0.599

1

Water Tank

1

0.023

1

2.744 0.349 0.226

1

0.599 0.023

1

0.354

Road Network

...

2.297

...

3.875

...

2.320

...

8.492

Total

15

26.5680

22

26.6300

14

15.5110

51

68.709

Large Yard

0.354

LEGEND Proposed Project Boundary Existing Industries Proposed Industries Administrative Area Community Facility Staff Residence Open Space/ Green Space Future Extention Water Reservoir Fire Fighting Station Existing Plant ROAD

Existing Road Network Proposed Road Network ETP, WTP, SWDP, RWHA, STP Sub Station, Water Tank

MASTER PLAN PREPARED BY: CIVIL ENGINEER Eng. Salah Uddin Ahmed RAJUK Enlistment No: RE-07-006 IEB Life Fellow: F-7350

TOWN PLANER

GEOGRAPHER

Planner Ashikur Rahman

Mohammed Ikbal Hossain

Bangladesh Institute of Planners (BIP) Membership No: M-915

Life Member, Bangladesh National Geographical Association (BNGA)

MEZ and MIEZ – two lucrative destinations for local and foreign investors

GEO ASSOSIATE BD

House #14, Road #05, PC Culture Housing Socicety, Shekhertek, Mohammadpur, Dhaka-1207 March 03, 2016

22

Investment Today FDI hits $2.84 billion during period of Jan-Nov'18

Collected

6 years of Rana Plaza tragedy BD garment factories are now one of the safest workplace All the stakeholders should sit together to form a complete textile policy

54-56 In this scenario, what should be the government policy in gas supply and its pricing for the textiles and garments industry?

57-59

Textile Icon

Need to set policy for bottom price and order amount to ensure fair price

"Need to set policy for bottom price and order amount to ensure fair price" Mohammad Abdur Rouf

Content

April’ 19 |

Processing Today Editorial

63

Denim Today

81

64

82-84

Enzyme Today

66-67

Bio-scouring, a cost-saving trend for knit processing industry

85-87 Consistent quality drives N.R. Group to use Pailung ...

Apparel Today A good day spent at Denim Expert Ltd.

90-93

Market Analysis

Global Fabric Care Market Share (%)

By Product Type (2018)

48.7%

121-122

Stain Removers /Bleach

Others Fabric Care Products

CAGR of 5.9% (2018-2027)

Fabric Softeners/ Enhancers

Mahmud Denims Ltd, a name for quality denim fabrics

94

Fabric Detergents

Source: Future Market Insights, 2018 Note: Market shares are not depicled as per the actual scale and are only for illustration purposes.

Fabric care market expected to rake in revenues worth US$ 152 billion by 2027

117-120 11 ways to maintain professionalism in merchandising

Silkflex launches all ranges of AOP inks along with denim & taffeta fabrics

76

Application of lean philosophy can ensure desire profit in knitting (Part–I)

Denim makers installing rope dyeing technology to cater the growing demands

Printing Today

68-69

Knitting Today

102-103

Knit Fabric Dyeing

10 causes and remedies of running shade in knit dyeing

Issue 04

99

Building sustainalble supply chain in denim industry Color removal in biological treatment process

Volume 12 |

Denim Event 10th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo...

Buy or Sell idle Manufacturing Capacity & Product Here!

Quality control and audit in sewing for trouser manufacturing

126-127 "We should break the fear' that we are not ...

Uzzal Dakua

+880 1309 005 227 info @ aliganz.com FB/aliganzbd

®

Editorial

Steep hike of gas prices to push the textile sector’s production cost Proposed gas price hike to increase apparel sector production costs by 18% Akhi Akter Gas distribution companies have proposed Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission (BERC) to increase gas price to Tk 18.04 per cubic metre from current rate Tk 7.76 for the industry. If the proposal is accepted then, gas price will be increased by 132 percent.

The government wants to hike prices of gas to reduce the burden of subsidies as it has to buy per cubic meter of LNG at Tk32 and selling it at Tk 7.17.

According to Dhaka Chamber of Commerce and Industry (DCCI), Bangladesh apparel and textile sector to see an 18.06% rise in production costs, if the prices of gas is increased as proposed by the distributing companies.

On the other hand, production costs in the textile sector also will rise by 4.5% if the electricity prices is hiked by 30%.

DCCI made the rough estimation in its assessment on the impact of energy price hike on industry.

“If the prices of gas for captive power and industry increased by

96.3% and 132.5% respectively, it will increase the production cost by 18.06% in the country’s textile sector,” said Muhammad Fouzul Kabir Khan, former Secretary to the Power Division.

Khan made the estimation it his



In the given situation, rise in the gas and electricity price will add salt to wound. So, the government should not increase prices of gas and electricity prices right now, said Kokhon.

In adjusting prices of production costs, the government should give an opportunity to the industry to grow up, he added.

Meanwhile, the experts suggested the government to increase prices gradually rather than steep increase in energy prices.

Diversifying away from natural gas by investing more on renewable energy, coal and nuclear solutions and introducing energy efficient building code, could a be great solution, they added.

Meanwhile, apparel makers fearing to lose the competitiveness in the global markets if the prices of gas and electricity as proposed by the distributors.

“For last couple of years, the apparel sector spent a lot in improving the safety standard, while workers’ wages increased by 51% last year. The production cost went up by manifold but the buyers are not incensing prices,” Exporters Association of Bangladesh (EAB) president Abdus Salam Murshedy told the Textile Today.

key note presentation at a seminar on “Energy Pricing: Impact on Industry” organized by DCCI in the capital on May 11.

“However, production cost will increase by 4.5%, if the price of electricity is increased by 30%.”

“The primary textile sector, a strong backward linkage industry of the apparel sector, is going through crucial time as the production costs have gone up caused by rise in workers wage and other expenses to improve safety standards,” Bangladesh

12

Textile Mill Association President Mohammad Ali Kokhon told the Textile Today.

As a result, we are losing competitiveness in the global markets to our competitors. So, our call is not to increase the prices of gas and electricity, said Salam, also a former President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association.

Meanwhile, the experts suggested the government to increase prices gradually rather than steep increase in energy prices.

Diversifying away from natural gas by investing more on renewable energy, coal and nuclear solutions and introducing energy efficient building code, could a be great solution, they added.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

TEXTILE SOLUTIONS.

Textile Auxiliary Solutions.

Cover Story

Power Economic Zones

Telecomunication Banking

Gas & Petroleum Textile & Apparel

Govt. should take proper policy to cash benefits from FDI Sayed Abdullah Foreign direct investment (FDI) is increasing day by day in Bangladesh. The FDI is an investment in the form of controlling ownership in a business in one country by an entity based in another country. FDIs offer two win-win benefits- economic development for host states and profit maximization for foreign investors.

Bangladesh is adopting a more open economy as the country is moving towards Developing Country from Least Developing Country. To accommodate this, the Bangladesh Government has 14

gone for massive infrastructure development, power, and energy development, etc. And to make it possible the government is looking and attracting more foreign investors through FDI.

days,” said Aminul Islam.

Kazi Aminul Islam, executive chairman of Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA), said “Our doors are open for FDI, and foreign investments will jump by a significant margin in the coming days.”

Attracting foreign direct investment for developing countries generally, contribute to the development of countries.

Developing countries have many objectives for that, such as, creating new jobs and attracting more businesses. At the same time, these investments may have the potential of harmfully affecting the net capital flow of the economy.

“Our doors are open for FDI, and foreign investments will jump by a significant margin in the coming

Shafiul Islam Mohiuddin, President of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

Cover Story

3 2.5

2.58

2.45

2

2

1.83

1.5 1 0.5 0

FY15

FY16

FY17

FY18

NET FDI INFLOW (In billions of $) Figure 1: FDI inflow in Bangladesh from Fiscal Year 2015 to 2018.

(Source: Bangladesh Bank)

Industry (FBCCI) said, "To attract more FDI, the government has to first attract local investment as the foreign investors consider the trend of local investment before making any investment decision."

The local economy might profit from the initial foreign investment, but if the investing company sends all the profits to investors in another country for years on end that could be a drag on for the host economy in the long run.

506

687

109

Country-wise FDi flow in 2017-2018 (in millions of $)

125

373

125 135 158

171

191

China UK Hong Kong USA Singapore Norway South Korea India Netherlands Others

Source: Bangladesh Bank

Figure 2: Country-wise FDI inflow in Bangladesh in FY 18. Source: Bangladesh Bank

The present global order is extensively interconnected and the developing country like Bangladesh caters to the so-called developed nation’s ever-increasing demand with cheap human resources and dwindling natural resources. However, sometimes the FDI that comes from a developed country can shake up an existing industry because they’re bringing competition for the domestic companies that already exist.

In this regard, the government needs to be careful to protect the country’s economy from any unexpected catastrophe that can happen for unplanned FDI. To receive any FDI, the government should ensure below things: National interest Arriving FDIs must be in line with national interests, which should include the net economic benefit and policy compliance. A screening and approval manual with a list of criteria along the line of the regulatory directives in section 3 of FPIA to avoid dictatorial and non-transparent decision-making should be made readily available to potential investors and use to regulate net economic benefits and policy conformity. The net economic benefit must assess whether the proposed FDI would: FDI proposals must be compliant with the constitution and its state policies, and laws and policies on the environment, occupational health and safety, taxation, labor, security, defense, heritage, and natural resource exploitation.

Protectionism of local trade As FDI comes with heavy finance with state of the art technology, efficient management, and squeeze out maximum efficiency from workers, in contrast, local investors, who have a limited investment, ad hock basis management, lack of leadership skill, can’t bring out standard workers efficiency, on top of that,

Figure 3: Bangladesh govt. should form concrete rules and regulations for foreign investors to safeguard local industry as well as workers fair pay.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

15

Cover Story

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

EPZ Area and Component-wise FDI Inflows (Net) from 2015 to 2018 (In million US$)

FDI Net Inflows classified by Major Sectors for the quarter Jul-Sep, 2018 (in million US$) 600

300 250

500

200

400

150 100

FDI inflow

2016

Reinvested earnings 2017

41.91

158

193.15

123.03

250

165.47

258.4 Equity Capital 2015

233.45

37.68

0

13.63

25.2

100

25.32

227.01

Leather and Leather Products

Gas & Petroleum

Banking

Telecommunication

Textile and Wearing

NBFI (including Financial Intermediaries)

Power

416.77

406.66

200

0

416.77

300

50

Intra-company Loans

2018 (Jan-Sep)

• Increasing price negotiation capacity Total Net FDI Inflows

limited knowledge on international trade, ethics and norms will surely go to peril.

In most cases, Bangladeshi businessman fight against all odds to keep afloat their business. Where scarcity of loan prevail, mediocre mid-level management with premature leadership skill, etc. small and medium businesses will be overly exposed against top-notch foreign investors.

“Most of the times we cannot delegate much to our mid-level management because we have not been able to train them up as well. So most of the times, when there are some problems or disturbance in the factory its mostly coming from the challenges of mid-level management not being able to address the concerns of the workers properly,” said Rubana Huq, President of BGMEA.

•B randing Bangladesh textile and apparel to the world Reasoned incentives Incentives to attract FDI must be subject to a costbenefit analysis to prevent revenue losses and capital control risks.

Tax holidays are a key cause of consecutive revenue losses due to their exploitations by foreign investors taking advantage of long duration, lack of effective control, and administrative corruption. Various direct and indirect tax incentives lead to huge tax expenditure often offsetting the expected revenue.

Safeguarding workers interest The world has a black history of exploitation of workers by the elite. As we have seen in a renaissance in Europe, the East-India company in the Indian subcontinent, etc.

Keeping this grievous perspective under a magnifying glass. The government and the local trade bodies can play the life support role for the local businessmen, who are keeping the wheel of trade in motion.

Ensuring a strong liability from foreigners is a major obstacle. As foreign investors are backed by their countries, influential lobbyists, and local corrupt collaborators is a cause of great concern.

• Giving priority to a local tradesman in SEZ and EZ’s

And Bangladesh has a poor track record of upholding workers' rights, worker union, etc. and exploitation of workers by the foreign owners will add another throne in the already overburdened workers.

Government has to take proper initiative to safeguard the workers from exploitation by foreign investors.

FDI inflow

Equity Capital 2015

16

2016

690.04

140.09

47.95

762.8

1029.42

981.94

Reinvested earnings 2017

270.92

0

886.34

500

585.74

• Getting close to end consumers for extra edge

1000

501.22

•M arket diversification with the help of the government

1500

886.06

•E ncouraging local manufacturers to grab the local market in case of a global recession

2000

671.47

• Financial support with easy terms and condition

2500

2038.58

•S mooth operation of sea, air and land ports for easy export

Non-EPZ Area and Component-wise FDI Inflows (Net) from 2015 to 2018 (In million US$)

1670.73

•P romoting human capital transformation for maximum efficiency

1915.95

• I ncreasing R&D in universities and educationaltechnical institutions to eradicate mid-level management crisis

1828.73

•S ector-wise separate policy to protect local business

Intra-company Loans

2018 (Jan-Sep)

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

17

Cover Plus

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

MEZ and MIEZ – two lucrative destinations for local and foreign investors M M Uddin Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA) has been emerged by the Bangladesh Economic Zones Act, 2010, aiming to establish economic zones in all potential areas in Bangladesh including backward and underdeveloped regions with a view to encourage rapid economic development through increase and diversification of industry, employment, production and export. Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina launched and laid foundation stones of 65 uplift schemes including 24 economic zones on 3 April this year. Of 24 economic zones, 11 are suitable for setting up industries, including Meghna Economic Zone (MEZ) and Meghna Economic Industrial Economic Zone (MEIZ) at Sonargaon in Narayanganj.

Meghna Group of Industries has built these two economic zones on 325 acres of land. The construction of the two EZs -- Meghna Economic Zone on 245 acres and Meghna Industrial Economic Zone on 80 acres – have been completed and when all the factories will fully go for an operation, they will create about 30,000 jobs.

Already many local and international company invested at Meghna Economic Zone and Meghna Economic Industrial Economic Zone. Recently Australian TIC Group has set up a hanger factory with an initial investment of US$ 10 million in the Meghna Industrial Economic Zone. TIC Group’s hanger factory has started its operation on 18 February, though the trial

18

Master Plan of MEGHNA ECONOMIC ZONE LIMITED Meghnaghat, Sonargaon, Narayanganj LAND USE SCHEDULE UNIT 1 Feature

Number

UNIT 2

UNIT 3

Area Area Area Number Number (Acre) (Acre) (Acre)

TOTAL (ALL UNITS)

Number

Area (Acre) 48.674

Industrial Plot

2

18.681

7

19.316

2

10.677

11

Administrative Office Building

1

0.206

1

0.273

1

0.408

3

0.887

Community Centre

1

0.422

1

0.422

Bank

1

0.543

Industrial Plot

1

0.350

Staff Residence

1

0.298

Control Room & Substation

1

0.594

Effuent Treatment Plant (ETP)

1

0.386

1

0.162

1

Water Treatment Plant (WTP)

1

0.343

1

0.098

1

Solid Waste Dumping Plant (SWDP)

1

0.226 1

0.349

Water Reservoir

1

0.608

1

0.297

1

0.117

3

1.022

Rain Water Harvesting Area

1

0.356

1

0.226

1

0.114

3

0.596

Open Space / Green Space

2

1.258

6

1.165

13

2.744

1

0.349

1

0.599

1

0.023

1

Sewage Treatment Plant (STP)

5

0.321

Central Fire Fighting Station

1

0.349

Utility Offices (Water, Electricity, Gas etc.)

...

0.266

Security Buillding

1

0.599

1

0.543

1

0.350

2

0.774

1

0.594

0.242

3

0.790

0.114

3

0.555

1

0.226

1

0.349

0.476

0.226

1

0.023 1

0.354

1

Road Network

...

2.297

...

3.875

...

2.320

...

8.492

Total

15

26.5680

22

26.6300

14

15.5110

51

68.709

Water Tank Large Yard

0.354

LEGEND Proposed Project Boundary Existing Industries Proposed Industries Administrative Area Community Facility Staff Residence Open Space/ Green Space Future Extention Water Reservoir Fire Fighting Station Existing Plant ROAD

Existing Road Network Proposed Road Network ETP, WTP, SWDP, RWHA, STP Sub Station, Water Tank

MASTER PLAN PREPARED BY: CIVIL ENGINEER

TOWN PLANER

GEOGRAPHER

Eng. Salah Uddin Ahmed

Planner Ashikur Rahman

Mohammed Ikbal Hossain

RAJUK Enlistment No: RE-07-006 IEB Life Fellow: F-7350

Bangladesh Institute of Planners (BIP) Membership No: M-915

Life Member, Bangladesh National Geographical Association (BNGA)

GEO ASSOSIATE BD

House #14, Road #05, PC Culture Housing Socicety, Shekhertek, Mohammadpur, Dhaka-1207 March 03, 2016

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

19

Cover Plus

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

with 5 of its own power plants with total capacity of 140MW. Besides this, there will be facilities of the effluent treatment plant, water treatment plant, sewerage treatment plant, wastewater treatment plant, etc. The zone also has rainwater harvesting area, central fire station, security barrack, mosques, etc.

Scopes at Meghna Economic Zone

Land 245 acres

Upon full operation of the zone, it will employ over 20,000 employees including male-female and skilled-unskilled workers.

Presently the zone is planned to contain only the industries of Meghna Group of Industries, and also in cooperation with Chong Qing Min Metal Industries of China.

Power plant 5 (with 140MW capacity)

Location • Beside the Meghna River • Dhaka- Chattogram highway 1 km away • Hazrat Shahjalal Int’l Airport 37 km away

Scopes at MIEZ Meghna Industrial Economic Zone (MIEZ), Meghna Group of Industries’ 2nd venture of Private Economic Zone. The zone is located in Chhoto Shilmandi Mouza of Narayanganj district.

Located in the most prestigious industrial area of Narayanganj and adjacent to Dhaka- Chattogram Highway, the zone has taken measures to make the available supply of power, gas and water holding the maximum benefits that an EZ can provide to the prospective industries.

Job opportunity 20,000 people

Treatment facilities • Effluent • Water • Sewerage • Wastewater production began in November 2018. The factory will produce 150 million hangers yearly.

other hand, Unique Cement Fibre Industries Ltd will produce fiber bags, jumbo bags, etc.

Earlier, Japanese Sakata Inx is set to invest $10 million to establish a liquid ink manufacturing plant in MIEZ, a development that can reduce the country's import dependency of the product.

Scopes at MEZ

Unique Cement Fibre Industries Ltd and Sonargaon Printing & Packaging Industries Ltd. also invested among others. Sonargaon Printing & Packaging Industries Ltd will produce Corrugated Carton Box (Master & Inner Box), Sanitary Napkin, Baby Diaper, etc. On the

20

Upon complying with all the rules and regulations of BEZA, MEZ has been awarded the first Private Economic Zone license of Bangladesh on August 23rd, 2016. MEZ is located at a suitable location for industrial setup conveniently beside the Meghna River, with the Dhaka- Chattogram highway just 1 km away, Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport 37 km away.

The zone is currently capacitated

MIEZ is targeted for potential investors including foreign as well as local ones. In this directive, it is under intense planning to not only be the most investor-friendly but also to be an exemplary zone in the country.

Mostofa Kamal, Chairman and MD of Meghna Group of Industries said, “Its location is one of the most lucrative factors for the investors- is adjacent to the Dhaka- Chattogram highway, 37 km from Hazrat Shahjalal Int’l Airport, 220 km from Chattogram Sea Port, 25 km from Kamalapur Rail Station, and around 5 km from nearest river port.”

Mostofa Kamal mentioned that the zone is planned considering the international standards of

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Cover Plus

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

Scopes at Meghna Industrial Economic Zone

Land 80 acres

Power Continuous supply of gas and electricity Location • Beside the DhakaChattogram highway • Hazrat Shahjalal Int’l Airport 37 km away • Chattogram Sea Port 220 km away • Kamalapur Railway Station 25 km away

Job opportunity 10,000 people Treatment facilities • Effluent • Sewerage • Rainwater harvesting Industrial plots 137 industrial plots, each of 0.5 acres or 2000 m2 in size economic zones. There will be 137 industrial plots, each of 0.5 acres or 2000 m2 in size. A continuous supply of electricity will be ensured by the own power supply of MGI and REB upon requirement, while gas will be provided by TITAS and water will be extracted from an underground source.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

The roads will be of 60ft – 80ft width, and provisions for central effluent treatment plant, sewerage treatment plant, rainwater harvesting, fire services will be present. Furthers pace for commercial banks, restaurants, investor’s club, mosques, etc. will be allotted for the benefits of the

Volume 12, Issue 04

investors.

MIEZ is receiving great response from investors of global renowned international brands from Japan, Thailand, China, Singapore, India, etc. with their interests to invest and build up the suitable infrastructure for their industries.

Among products/ finished goods, 30%- 40% are expected to be exported while 60%- 70% will be for the local market. The entire project will be carried out in two phases-first phases in developing the land, construction of boundary walls and road network; while in the second phase utilities, drainage and sewerage disposal, and allocation of land to investors will occur.

The entire project is projected to be in full operation from the year 2020, while the first phase will end in 2016 and the second phase started in 2017.

Conclusion Bangladesh government is developing a total of 100 economic zones with a view to encouraging rapid economic development that will build the country as a developed one through creating employment and increasing industrializations.

This endeavor will be successful when Bangladesh will show its better performance on ease of doing business. At the moment, Bangladesh is one of the lowest performers on ease of doing business, it is 176 out of 190 countries. All the countries and regions are competing to receive investment. Therefore, to attract more foreign investment Bangladesh has to provide better services than its competitor countries.

Remarkably, Bangladesh is performing well now that is understood when we see the TIC Group’s hanger factory took only one year completing its construction at MIEZ. It means ease of doing business is increasing in Bangladesh

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I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

F D I Tr e n d

FDI hits $2.84 billion during period of Jan-Nov'18 Textile Today Analysis In January-November of 2018, Bangladesh saw FDI of $2.84 billion, up by 32.09%, compared to the total FDI of $2.15 billion in 2017, according to the Bangladesh Investment Development Authority (BIDA).

Issues like policy reforms by the government and steady economic growth helped the country tap the enhanced FDI inflow. Equity and reinvestment by existing foreign companies doing business in the country are the two major sources of the $2.84 billion FDI, BIDA officials said.

Bangladesh remains in the highest position in business expansion plans by Japanese companies in the next one or two years, according to a recent report titled ‘2018 JETRO Survey on Business Conditions of Japanese Companies in Asia and Oceania’.

Japan has already signed two deals to invest over Tk22,000 crore in Bangladesh’s private sector.

China was the highest investor with $374.52 million, while the United Kingdom made investments of $88.75 million followed by Singapore $77 million as of September 2018.

During the period, the power sector received the highest investment of $274.50 million, while the textile and clothing sector was the second largest sector with an investment of 22

$146.33 million.

Bangladesh government undertook measures to expedite the business registration process by introducing one-stop services aimed at attracting investments. Additionally, the government has been spending a large sum of money to remove infrastructural deficiencies.

Economists, business people, and government officials are observing this growth as a positive sign for Bangladesh.

The scenario is also good because some of the private Special Economic Zones [SEZs] have started allocating lands to businesspeople, which in turn, will attract more investment.

Although global FDI fell by 20% in 2018, in line with the country’s current positive trend, Bangladesh’s FDI in 2019 is expected to reach $3.7 billion.

Among all the other least developed countries (LDCs), Bangladesh is doing better in terms of economic growth but receiving less FDI. The rise in the FDI is a result of policy reforms and the introduction of the one-stop service for investors—which is already in operation, said a chief official of the BIDA. As part of its reforms, the

government enacted the One-Stop Service Act 2017, in an effort to facilitate services and reduce the cost of doing business for both foreign and domestic investors.

However, some industry leaders opined that although government takes initiatives in progress to ensure a businessfriendly environment, the rate of implementation is not “satisfactory” to attract new investments.

To attract more FDI, the government has to first attract local investment as foreign investors consider the trend of local investment before making any investment decision.

The amount of FDI is not enough considering the size of Bangladesh’s economy, they said.

They emphasized on sustainable investment. Sustainability will depend on the investment climate and for this, Bangladesh will have to improve port capacity and service quality.

The operation of the Special Economic Zones (SEZs) will be another tool to retain the FDI growth trend.

The government is aiming to establish 100 SEZs across the country by 2030, of them 24 SEZs are inaugurated by Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina on 3 April.

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Volume 12, Issue 04

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F D I Tr e n d

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73.2% Japanese firms willing to expand their business in Bangladesh: JETRO For low production cost Bangladesh is a lucrative destination for doing business Staff Correspondent Bangladesh remains in the highest position in business expansion plans by Japanese companies in the next one or two years, according to the ‘2018 JETRO Survey on Business Conditions of Japanese Companies in Asia and Oceania’.

The study finds that 73.2% of firms surveyed want ‘expansion’ in Bangladesh, whereas 72.8% want in India, 72.1% in Myanmar, and 69.8% in Vietnam.

The country gets the top position among Asian and Oceania regions despite problems in quality control, deregulation and securing labor force. The study shows the country’s position in operating profit forecast by the firms among the top three.

According to the World Bank, Bangladesh is one of the lowest performers on ease of doing business, it is 176 out of 190 countries. So, a question can be raised that why are the Japanese firms willing to expand their business in Bangladesh?

They are mainly willing to expand their business here in Bangladesh due to less production cost as Bangladesh is providing the lowest wage to their manufacturing workers among 19 countries were surveyed.

According to the study, a three years experienced manufacturing worker gets $109 wage per month in Bangladesh.

The Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) survey found the diffusion index higher in India, Laos, Vietnam, Bangladesh, and Cambodia, indicating the companies’ business confidence for 2018.

It said 61% of companies showed the reason for expansion as ‘high growth potential’ and ‘sales increase in local market’.

Over 5,073 out of total 13,415 affiliated companies with direct and indirect investment from 10 or greater in 20 countries responded in the 32nd JETRO survey.

In Bangladesh, 57 out of 140 Japanese firms were surveyed, of them, thirty of the firms belong to large groups and 27 small-andmedium enterprises.

According to the survey, 55.1% of the firms questioned from October 09 to November 09 in 2018 selected ‘expansion’ as their approach to future business challenges. This is up by 1.4 percentage point from 53.7% in the 2017 survey.

Although 4.2% of firms forecast ‘reduction’ or ‘transferring to a third country/region or withdrawal from current local markets’, there is no such firm in this group from Bangladesh.

But 26.8% of the companies responded to remain in the same position, meaning no expansion plan in the next one or two years.

“Business confidence of the Japaneseaffiliated firms is continuing to improve,” the JETRO cited in the survey.

Some 41% of companies highlighted ‘sales increase for export expansion’ as the key reason.

But the firms reacted to reasons like high receptivity for high valueadded products, reconsideration of production and distribution networks, cost cuts, deregulation and ease of securing labor force.

On the average rate of annual rise in wages for all industries for 2019, it was the highest 10% in Pakistan followed by 9.6% in Bangladesh and India, 8.1% in Sri Lanka.

The JETRO found that 62.5% of companies questioned the quality of employees, 58.9% of pay hike and 64.6% difficulty in quality control.

Country wise Manufacturing Workers’ Wages Unit: US$

Australia New Zealand Hong Kong South Korea Singapore Taiwan China Malaysia Thailand Indonesia India Vietnam Philippines Cambodia Pakistan Laos Myanmar Sri Lanka Bangladesh

3,637 3,003 2,212 2,208 1,946 1,097 493 413 413 296 265 227 220 201 187 180 162 139 109

Figure 2: Manufacturing workers in Bangladesh get the lowest salary among 19 surveyed countries.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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Volume 12, Issue 04

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HR-Outsourcing: Your virtual HR department (Part-I) Md. Kamruzzaman, Chief Human Resources Officer, Asrotex Group Fellow & EC & Treasurer- BSHRM, E-mail: mdkzaman1207@gmail.com The HR industry is experiencing a transformation. Organizations are looking beyond the functional role of HR and developing strategies to increase their impact on business performance and growth. But the role of ‘strategic business partner’ comes with its challenges and managing all of the elements needed to succeed can be a strain on even the largest of HR teams.

HR professionals are expected to deliver a streamlined and attractive talent management process; find leading candidates; fulfill each generation of

26

employees; predict their organizations’ future labor supply and demand; motivate employees to perform their best, and manage the administrative duties related to all of these tasks. And integrating all these, they have to ensure that employees at every level understand and execute the workforce strategy.

That is why it has become increasingly critical for HR to build valuable partnerships with product vendors and service providers who can automate key processes, deliver the latest technologies, and

ultimately, free up time that can be better spent strategizing which is called HRO. What is HRO? With the advent of time BPO – Business Process Outsourcing comes to us very frequently where companies are looking after better 3rd party service at affordable prices to meet the upcoming global competitions. In HR it is called HRO or HR-Outsourcing, it is the process of sub-contracting human resources functions to an external supplier. Outsourcing

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Benefits

To p S t o r y

Quality service

Human Capital

Simplification & standardization

HR functions may create greater efficiency within human resources systems.

Your HR outsourcing companies will consider your requirements and expectations, and come up with a proposed action plan and will provide you with service solutions that fit your needs.

With HR outsourcing, you will be benefited in experience and know-how, delivered to you from your offices or directly on your premises.

How they work Complete HR delivers tailor-made HR solutions to help your business reach its goals. They can work for you on an hourly, daily or fixed fee basis – on or off-site.

• Full outsource – they take care of all your HR need

Support for future growth

Cost reduction

2. Talent acquisition and management 3. Survey & OD 4. Payroll and automation 5. Learning and training 6. KPI & KSA based performance management system 7. Administration of the employment lifecycle 8. Rewards and benefits 9. Meeting the employment legislation requirements including Income Tax and lab your dispute 10. Policy and SOP development 11. Standardization and certification 12. Employee matrix and research 13. Event management 14. HRIS –automation

Access to best practices

Future business growth

easy to understand and put the ambitions of the business first – let us help your business thrive.

They build and manage a complete infrastructure of processes, policies, procedures, and employee communications, all bundled with your technology for a complete, efficient, tactical HR, benefits and payroll infrastructure that can scale with your business.

And because they build it custom for your business, you can take it over when you’re ready.

2. Talent acquisition and management Executive search (headhunting) is a specialized recruitment service which organizations pay to seek out and recruit highly qualified candidates for seniorlevel and executive jobs (e.g., President, Vice-president, CEO).

• Semi outsource – they take care of some of your HR needs • Project – they deliver an HR project from start to finish • Retainer – they provide HR expertise and solutions on a regular basis for an annual fee • Ad hoc – they are available when required on a daily basis What services they can offer In advanced human resources, practices companies enjoy the whole HR process from a 3rd party who has gained professional excellence on that particular service(s). Advanced technology is being utilized by outsourcing providers to help streamline important HR functions.

Alternatively, they can tailor-make your offering specifically to your needs including the following services: 1. Complete HR solutions

Bangladesh Textile Today |

15. Referral checking.

1. Complete HR solution A complete HR services company deliver tailor-made HR solutions to help the business reach its goals better and faster. HR solutions are

Volume 12, Issue 04

Headhunters may also seek out and recruit other highly specialized and/or skilled positions in organizations. The method usually involves commissioning a third-party organization,

27

Human Capital

typically an executive search firm, but possibly a standalone consultant or consulting firm, to research the availability of suitably qualified candidates working for competitors or related businesses or organizations.

Talent acquisition refers to the job and process of sourcing, attracting, recruiting, interviewing, and on-boarding employees to an organization. It is a function of corporate recruiting and is usually housed within the Human Resources department.

To p S t o r y

OD and career management

Organizational Development

Leadership Initiatives

Bottom-up Diagnosis

Change Management

Situation Awareness

OD Interventions

3. Survey and OD Survey gives the internal picture of any organization – a good survey can suggest where, when and what strategic measure should be taken for the best benefit of your organization. The outcome will accelerate slow processes within your organization, eliminate inefficiencies, improve productivity and control costs.

In organizational development (OD), employee research involves the use of surveys, focus groups and other data-gathering methods to find out the attitudes, opinions, and feelings of members of an organization.

Their employee research expertise stretches across every stage of the employee lifecycle, helping you tailor your employer brand to attract the best talent, measure employee engagement, understand what is driving it, and identify the causes of employee turnover to help retain key employees. With Your proven “Say, Stay, Strive” model and best-inclass technology, they will guide you through specific areas of focus to improve employee engagement and create an impact on customer experience and retention.

Following examples are given• Wages and salary survey

4. Payroll and automation HR outsourcing companies are offering payroll service where they take the responsibility of calculating payroll, disbursing and maintain confidentiality at their end. Payroll automation can be

integrated into the company’s Enterprise Resource Planning (ERP) system that provides an overall view of the company’s or community’s finances; in addition to payroll, it can manage employees’ details, job history,

Payroll Automation Automating payroll is among the first automations adopted by any organization irrespective of country or industry.

Time Saving Save productive time with one time configuration of components

Maintain Standards

Error Free

Organization Brand and standardization of pay slips.

Eliminate calculation errors in salary processing

Terget

Employee Satisfaction Compliance

Data Security

Remain 100% compliant with statutory requirements

Keep records confidential 100%

• Employee engagement survey • Employee morale survey • Employee attitude etc.

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On time Processing Process salaries on time month after month

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

29

Human Capital

To p S t o r y

personal information, and asset management.

Payroll management consists of several stages and procedures that require expertise in financial administration, such as employment contract management. Payroll management performs the following tasks: • Calculating and paying wages, settlement of tax withholdings • Delivery of wage calculations and certificates to the employees • Compiling statistics for

Learning

Education

different authorities, and for the purposes of improving activities

• Providing regulatory reports to the tax agencies and insurance companies • Calculating annual holidays

Position

Types of Program

Sample of Title

C-Suit Level

CEO, COO, ED, Director, DMD

Leadership Based Training (LBT)

• • • • • • • •

Creative Leadership Emotional Intelligence Leading people for change Personality Development Change of Leadership Strategic Management Business Sustainability Develop Corporate Culture

• The travel costs and travel invoices from the employees are usually processed together with payroll.

5. Learning and training Learning and development, often called training and development, forms part of an organization’s talent management strategy and is designed to align group and individual goals and performance with the organization’s overall vision and goals.

HoDs Level

GM, DGM, AGM

Attitude Based Training (ABT)

• • • • • • • • • • • •

Wheel of Motivation, Habits of Win, Empathy your team E-mail at Work Leading team effectively Conflict Management Stress & Time Management Value Stream Mapping Aligning team in business Mentor your team Corporate Etiquettes In search of excellence

Mid Management Level

Manager

Competence Based Training (CBT)

• • • • • • • • • • •

Effective Delegation Effective Communication Value Addition in the Business Skill of report Writing Managing Employee Separation Managing Company Meetings Skill of Supervision Taking decision through fishbone Tips to be successful Grievance Management In search of leadership

• • • • • • • • •

PSDT 5-S Waste Management Defect Management of Garments EOSH Grooming Etiquettes Production Management Productivity Management Receiving employee grievance properly

Operation Level

30

Supervisor, Officer, Executive

Competence Based Training (CBT)

Training

• Managing deductions for employee benefits

• Drawing up employment contracts

Category

Development

On a practical level, individuals responsible for learning and development must identify skills gaps among groups and teams often through SMART objectives, one-to-one interviews, and performance appraisal and then finding suitable training to fill these gaps. Your HR outsource team can design a training program for following levels of individual through Assessing Training Needs (ATN): 6.

KPI & KSA based performance management system A good outsourcing company can design an effective performance management system where a standard performance measuring and reward system will be reflected.

There's a constant pressure to achieve

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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Human Capital

To p S t o r y

pension plans; retirement accounts; stock options; time off for vacation, illness, and maternity.

• Employee Development: Providing training to help employees learn new skills, and retaining high-performing employees.

• Employee Relations: Facilitating communication between employee and manager, including consultation on employee rights and responsibilities, resolution strategies for workplace issues, and explanation of organization policies and procedures.

Performance Management System Company Goal Year

Level

1

Manager Performance Level +2 Individual’s Performance Level +2

2

Manager Performance Level +1 Individual’s Performance Level +1

3

Manager Performance Level +2 Individual’s Performance Level +2

performance targets, to reach a higher performance level, and to ensure that people's work supports and furthers the organization's goals. Performance management is the process used to manage this performance.

This is where key performance indicators come into play, and they apply both at the organizational and individual levels. At an organizational level, a Key Performance Indicator (KPI) is a quantifiable metric that reflects how well an organization is achieving its stated goals and objectives.

Performance management is a shared understanding of how individuals contribute to an organization's goals. Effective performance management and appraisals process focus on aligning your workforce, building competencies, improving employee performance and development, and driving better business results.

1. Planning and expectation setting 2. Monitoring 3. Development and improvement 4. Periodic rating

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• Organizational Development: Improving organizational performance and growth through continuous analysis, planning, implementation, and evaluation of processes, departments, and resources.

5. Rewards and compensation 7. Administration of the employment lifecycle Managed HR services that support your organization throughout the entire employee life cycle.

From recruitment through alumni management, their talented HR professionals guide you through every step of the employee administration process. They provide services to help your organization manage the complete life cycle of your employees.

Your highly skilled experts, along with leading software, bring efficient, affordable processes for your HR needs, as follows: • Recruiting: Searching for, filtering, and selecting prospective employees to interview.

• Onboarding: Hiring employees, providing orientation, and ensuring that they have access to applications, systems, and other requirements for your jobs.

• Benefits Administration: Establishing, maintaining, and managing benefits for employees, including medical, life, and disability insurance;

• Performance Management: Establishing processes for managers to evaluate employee performance, including setting goals, evaluating results and accomplishments, communicating expectations, and resolving performance gaps.

• Compensation Administration: Planning and managing direct and indirect compensation for employees, including salary, bonuses, incentives, and time off.

• Termination: Transitioning employees out of the organization through resignation, firing, or retirement, including removal from organization systems, exit interviews, and relevant benefits transitions.

• Alumni Management: Maintaining contact with former employees for business development, rehiring, and knowledge networking. (…to be continued)

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Figure: A World Bank report reveals Bangladesh will witness a 7.3% GDP growth projection in the FY2019.

Need to address several challenges of Bangladesh economy to continue its growth Staff Correspondent Bangladesh economy continues to be among the fastest growing economies in the world due to stable macro and export-oriented industry-led growth, a World Bank report said.

The country is among the five fastest-growing economies of the world, despite insufficient private sector investment, with a 7.3% GDP growth projection in the FY2019, the report said.

As per the projection of the global lender, Bangladesh is the fifth in the rank of fastest growing economies after Ethiopia, Rwanda, Bhutan, and India respectively.

Bangladesh shares the position with Djibouti, Ivory Coast and Ghana. Ethiopia’s GDP is projected to grow by 8.8%, Rwanda 7.8%, Bhutan 7.6% and India 7.5%.

On the other hand, according to the Asian Development Bank, Bangladesh’s economy will grow at 8 percent in fiscal 2019. It also said in its outlook for the economy that Bangladesh’s economy is in a good shape and is likely to be the fastest growing economy in ‘Asia and the Pacific’ in its report.

The report ‘Asian Development Outlook 2019’ underlined that Bangladesh must focus on prudent macroeconomic policies, sound debt management, resource mobilization, and strengthening banking sector to achieve the goal of becoming a higher middle-

Bangladesh Textile Today |

income country and beyond.

However, Finance Minister AHM Mustafa Kamal said Bangladesh's economy will grow at 8.13 percent this fiscal year, the highest in its history.

Bangladesh’s growth outlook remains strong and stable. Sound macroeconomic policies – such as keeping the budget deficit below 5% of GDP – and resilient domestic demand have led to growth in manufacturing and construction industries on the supply side. On the demand side, growth is led by private consumption and exports, said the World Bank report.

“In addition, the country has substantially improved its electricity generation and a bumper agricultural harvest has further stimulated growth.

To sustain this progress, the country needs continuity in priority reform areas: financial

sector, fiscal, infrastructure, human capital, and business regulation.

The biggest internal risk is in the banking sector, which is ridden with Non-performing Loans (NPLs). Another risk is a shortfall in revenue mobilization, which hinders the implementation of the development budget.

In the development update, the World Bank has noted that private sector investments in Bangladesh remain weak.

As of now, FDI remains low at less than 1% of GDP. Net FDI inflow amounted to $910 million in the first half of FY19, compared with $823 million in the first half of FY18.

Initiatives are needed to address several challenges, particularly in boosting private sector investment and diversifying exports. Domestic revenue mobilization is well behind the target so far this year, said WB Country Director Bob Saum.

10

8

6

Bangladesh

India

Bhutan

Rwanda

Ethiopia

Figure : Top five fastest growing global economies.

Volume 12, Issue 04

33

Spinning

To d a y

Cotton

To d a y

In pursuit of increased consumption of sustainable fiber that uses only natural seed that we can call as “By Default Semi-Organic”: (CmiA) CmiA’ has huge potential for sustainable fashion value chain Abdul Wadud, Management Consultant, TRANSFORM, System’ same as BCI, but also CmiA has ‘Hard Identification Process’ or HIP that is actually a semi-alternative to Organic cotton with full traceability.

The future of fashion is now more focused on sustainable products and circular economy with obvious reasons as we really need to focus on all our activities to reduce the carbon footprint and focus on activities that can save the Mother Nature so that we can leave a livable world for our future generation.

Among the notable sustainable initiatives on cotton that so far has been going on since last few decades, like; FT (Fair Trade), Organic, CmiA (Cotton Made in Africa), BCI (Better Cotton Initiative), MyBMP, LEEDS, etc. CmiA can be singled out that has a lot of potentials for the fashion value chain to work within the future.

CmiA follows the same principle of organic cotton production as far as seed is concerned. Like organic cotton, CmiA does not allow to use genetically modified seeds and uses only the natural local variety.

To be a CmiA certified farmer, it is mandatory to be a small farmer as one of the most important purposes of CmiA initiative is to support marginal farmers who have to face big challenges to cultivate cotton and earn a living.

As a matter of fact, CmiA works well with the cotton producing countries of African small farmers who are mostly marginal, as they don't have to spend extra money to buy the genetically modified seed that is quite expensive and requires precious foreign currency.

One of the biggest advantages of CmiA cotton is that most of its origin’s quality is excellent.

For instance, color grade and trash is 31-2 and better, Staple is

34

28.50 mm+, Average Mic is 3.80, GPT is 29 in HVI (High Volume Instrument) and Maturity is 88%+ (In AFIS), cotton is with low level of Neps, homogenous and good for both knit and woven yarn for medium count yarn (With a range of Ne 20- Ne 30). CmiA is not contamination free but the contamination level is lower than most of the sustainable cotton initiatives.

CmiA cotton has one of the highest yields that reduce the cost of yarn production. Yarn realization in carded and combed process is minimum 2-5% higher than other sustainable cotton initiatives.

Most importantly, CmiA cotton does not upcharge a single penny while other sustainable cotton initiatives charge minimum 0.50 to 30 cents per lbs of cotton when the spinner buys the cotton.

CmiA cotton can also be used as BCI cotton, provided the spinner has both CmiA and BCI certification.

CmiA not only has ‘Mass Balancing

CmiA cotton growing origins don't use any Genetically Modified Cotton Seed, even for producing Non-CmiA cotton and every farmer uses only natural seeds for growing cotton. Thus, it is historically evident that the cotton quality parameter for both CmiA and Non-CmiA of a particular origin is similar. CmiA cotton origins are therefore automatically immune to not use any genetically modified cotton seed. This is a plus point for CmiA cotton to encourage more use of CmiA cotton through HIP as a close alternative for organic cotton.

Currently, most of the CmiA cotton bought by spinners are being used as BCI as there is very high demand for BCI cotton due to the high level of commitment from major brands and retailers for BCI cotton. Brands and Retailers commitment to use CmiA cotton is lower up to now.

With the above discussion, we can easily understand the value that CmiA cotton can offer to the fashion value chain. And it would not be illogical to think that more and more requirement for CmiA cotton would come from brands and retailers eventually. If it happens so it would uplift the living standard of small African farmers, as well, it would contribute to a higher level of eco-friendly activities in the coming future. We leave it to the brands and retailers as well as the cotton value chain.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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Exclusive Interview

C o t t o n To d a y

All the stakeholders should sit together to form a complete textile policy Mehdi Ali, President of Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA) and Chairman of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FBCCI)

Mehdi Ali comes from a respectable background rich in culture, social work and political background. His great grandfather Prof. Muzaffar Ahmed is the legendary politician in Bangladesh and President of Bangladesh National Awami Party- which is well known as NAP (Muzaffar).

Mehdi Ali was born in July 30, 1966. He is a graduate from Dhaka University, presently acting as President of Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA) and Chairman, Standing Committee relating to Ministry of Foreign Affairs,

36

the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce & Industry (FBCCI).

Traders, Cotton Growers, Cotton Ginners and Cotton Controllers (Inspection Companies).

He has been working endlessly in the development of the cotton sector. He is one of the leading key players for organizing the Global Cotton Summit, which has become now a brand in the cotton industry of the globe.

BCA is an affiliated member of the Federation of Bangladesh Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FBCCI) and an affiliated Association of the International Cotton Association (ICA) based in Liverpool, UK.

Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA) was established in the year 2000 with a strong desire to serve the Cotton Community of the Country. This is the national trade body of Cotton Agents, Cotton

Recently in a conversation with Textile Today, he opened up some paramount issues including cotton sourcing and the prospect of backward linkage of the textile business.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Exclusive Interview

C o t t o n To d a y

Textile Today: You are the President of BCA, what are your plans to make BCA’s roles more effective for the textile industry?

Mehdi Ali: The formation of Bangladesh Cotton Association (BCA ) was the biggest challenge with the Agents, Cotton Traders, Cotton Growers, Cotton Ginners and Cotton Controllers (Inspection Companies) because we are not strong enough financially like other stakeholders in the textile and apparel industry.

Organizing Global Cotton Summit in Bangladesh, an office for the association and arranging all the financial support was my achievement to make the association successful.

My plan is to tagging the BCA with other stakeholders in the textile and apparel industry for a comprehensive work to get touched 50 billion appeal export target by 2021.

Textile Today: How is BCA promoting and diversifying cotton business?

Mehdi Ali: Bangladesh is mostly dependent on India for its cotton source due to geographical proximity and shorter lead time.

But this is not sustainable for textile industry rather can be a future threat if any embargo is imposed by the neighbor country.

Also Indian cotton is not good in quality, short staple length and not contamination free. So diversifying cotton business is really important to secure cotton source.

Bangladesh cotton importers.

Some importers are importing cotton illegally by the false declaration of yarn count or quality and getting the privilege of free or low tax and charges.

really possible for the government to seal the whole border to stop dumping.

This illegal cotton importcompeting in an unparalleled trade race with the genuine cotton importers.

Even, we could not stop illegal cotton import through false declaration, using bonded facilities some traders are selling fabric in the local market but we see no strong initiatives or regular raids from law enforcement agencies.

BCA proposed to establish a lab in the border to test yarn count and quality that matching to the declaration. This will not cost much for the government to set up testing labs.

So BCA urges Bangladesh government to take action to stop illegal cotton import for securing legal business and should impose an anti-dumping law to protect our local spinning industry.

Textile Today: We are saying made in Bangladesh but importing cotton from all over the world like Africa, the US, or Brazil, how you will distinguish cotton quality that stands for Bangladesh identity.

ď„?

BCA proposed to establish a lab in the border to test yarn count and quality that matching to the declaration. This will not cost much for the government to set up testing labs.

Mehdi Ali: This is true locally produced Bangladeshi cotton cannot meet the total required demand but we have special yarn quality in our locally produced cotton that is unique in the world and can stand for Bangladesh identity.

Textile Today: Dumping of yarn from our neighbor countries making the business impossible for our local spinners. How could we come out of this situation?

Mehdi Ali: Bangladesh border is surrounded by an enormous neighbor like India. So this is not

This unique quality is blended of different world-class cotton such as US cotton mix to African cotton by a percentage to produce new yarn quality.

Some mills can do it appropriately such as Naheed Cotton Mills Ltd. They are maintaining worldclass quality as well as keeping the price reasonable. This price benefit directly goes to the

Mehdi Ali: Illegal Cotton import is the biggest challenge for the

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Cotton cultivation (in Hector)

156509 42850

153280

152536

42800

41498

42700

129000 39756

Textile Today: What are the challenges of Bangladesh cotton importers? How is BCA contributing to overcome the challenges?

144616

In this regard, BCA wants to promote the cotton sourcing from Africa, Brazil or USA. Importing cotton declines from India notably 46% now, previously it was 49% of total cotton import.

Cotton yarn production (Bale)

Figure 1: Yearly cotton production in Bangladesh (in Hector and in Bale).

Volume 12, Issue 04

37

Exclusive Interview

apparel manufacturer to offer better garment price in the global competitive market.

Textile Today: Cotton made in Bangladesh, what are its prospects and what we can do to produce more cotton from our land?

Mehdi Ali: Cotton made in Bangladesh is high-quality cotton that can be compared with worldclass cotton quality.

Recently some high officials from Primark, an Irish clothing and accessories retailer in a day-long visit came to Bangladesh to see its cotton firm and highly impressed for quality cotton that grows here.

They expressed to use cotton made in Bangladesh for their apparel products and wants policy support if they can invest more to produce Bangladeshi cotton.

But Cotton Development Board (CDB) says they have land scarcity which hinders more cotton production.

In this regard once I shared my personal opinion to the Executive

38

C o t t o n To d a y

Director of CDB, Dr. Md. Farid Uddin, if they can utilize the open space of mango firms at Rajshahi for cotton firming. And I thought it can be a good solution for land crisis to produce cotton.

Fortunately, CDB started a new project at Rajshahi and now cotton production rose in a remarkable scale. Also, Bangladesh hill track area can also be an alternative option for land scarcity.

This quality cotton can be used for heavy fabric like the bed sheet.

Textile Today: Do you think that Bangladesh Textile policy is strong enough to boost the backward and forward linkage of the textile industry?

Mehdi Ali: The new Textile Policy-2017 has been approved by the ministry of Jute and Textiles on 13th February, 2017. The mission of the policy is stated as productivity improvement, employment generation and a surge in export and foreign investment to ensure a safe and eco-friendly textile and apparel sector.

But there are many contradictory provisions that make the policy ambiguous and not textile friendly. For example, it is not clearly mentioned that cotton is under which ministry, it will be considered for the business ministry of Jute and Textiles or Ministry of Agriculture?

So we really cannot go for clarification or business support from both of the ministry.

To have a complete textile policy, we should sit with all the stakeholders together – BCA, BGMEA, BKMEA and BTMA - to prepare a proposal for government’s review that will help the ministry to find the genuine picture of the industry and that can help to make a friendly policy for the industry.

But we are still struggling to meet all the stakeholders and work on the policymaking. Hopefully, end of this year or by the beginning of next year we can complete the proposal.

Textile Today: At present

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

C o t t o n To d a y

I n v e s t m e n t To d a y

Bangladesh, spinning mills are producing around 95% yarn for the knit and 35-40% for the woven sector. So what do you suggest strengthening textile backward linkage?

Mehdi Ali: I will strongly urge the Bangladesh government to announce special incentives and privileges of low or charges free import of cotton for the textile backward linkage because without strengthening the backward linkage 50 billion apparel export target never possible to achieve.

Our primary textile sector has a great contribution in this regards.

We see most of the media are talking about RMG sector means

7% 13% India Africa 46%

Imported Raw Cotton (in %)

16%

Pakistan, Brazil & others Uzbekistan USA

18%

figure 2: Top five destination of Bangladesh to import raw cotton (in %).

forward linkage for its business growth and challenges and backward linkage always kept in behind the door and not in the scene.

So the electronic and paper media should write and give focus for backward linkage and has to bring its prospect and challenges in the spotlight.

PM inaugurates 24 economic zones to begin new scopes in industrialization Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina today has launched and laid foundation stones of 65 uplift schemes including 24 economic zones Desk Report Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina opened and laid foundation stones of the development projects by unveiling plaques through a video conferencing from her official residence Gono Bhaban on 3 April.

Prime Minister also opened the commercial production of 16 mills and factories and laid foundation stones of 20 others at the function.

The inaugurated eleven economic zones are: Mongla Economic Zone at Mongla in Bagerhat district, Meghna Economic Zone and Meghna Economic Industrial Economic Zone at Sonargaon in Narayanganj, Abdul Monem Economic Zone at Gazaria in Munshiganj, Bay Economic Zone at Gazipur Sadar in Gazipur, Aman Economic Zone at Sonargaon in Narayanganj, City Economic Zone at Rupganj in Narayanganj, Kishoreganj Economic Zone at Pakundia in Kishoreganj, East West Special Economic Zone at Keraniganj in Dhaka, Karnaphuli

40

Figure: Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina has inaugurated and laid the foundation stones of 65 uplift schemes, including 24 economic zones.

Dry Dock Special Economic Zone at Anwara in Chattogram, and Sreehatta Economic Zone at Moulvibazar Sadar in Moulvibazar.

These eleven economic zones are suitable for setting up industries.

The premier also laid foundation stones of 13 economic zones and works of five development projects under the initiative of Bangladesh Economic Zones Authority (BEZA).

They are Miresharai, Sitakunda and Feni Economic Zones at Bangabandhu Sheikh Mujib Industrial City in Chattogram and Feni districts, Miresharai Economic Zone-2A at Miresharai in Chattogram, BGMEA Garments Park at Miresharai in Chattogram, Mongla Economic Zone-2 at Mongla at Bagerhat, Moheshkhali Economic Zone (Dhalghata) at Moheshkhali in Cox’s Bazar, Jamalpur Economic Zone at Jamalpur Sadar in Jamalpur and Sirajganj Economic Zone at Sirajganj and Belkuchi in Sirajganj, Akij Economic Zone at Trishal in Mymensingh, Cumilla Economic Zone at Meghna in Cumilla, Bashundhara Special Economic Zone at Keraniganj in Dhaka, Standard Global Economic Zone at Gazaria in Munshiganj, Hosendi Economic Zone at Gazaria in Munshiganj and Arisha Economic Zone at Keraniganj in Dhaka.

The premier earlier opened 10 economic zones in 2016.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

S p i n n i n g To d a y

Jute

To d a y

Jute Staple Fiber (JSF) can be a new source for sustainable fiber in future Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM Brands and retailers are all turning their focus to sustainable fiber and circular economy. For example, by 2030, H&M pledge to be working with sustainable fabrics. For that reason, they have already dropped cashmere and 95% of their cotton is recycled or sustainable.

Jute is a sustainable natural fiber and Bangladesh produces the best jute in the world. But the kind of products that are made with jute are not focused to serve the need for high-end fashion items. The problem of jute fiber is its fiber staple length (1.0-1.50 meter) and higher micronaire (7+). With the conventional jute spinning system, finest count that can be made is Ne 5/s that is very coarse.

Since 2016, I have been working with jute fiber and came out with quality ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ that can be blended to make medium count yarn with the conventional ring and rotor dry spinning process.

However, Jute Research Institute has produced ‘Juton’ that is a jute blended cotton yarn. But the quality is not good and with their process, it is not possible to make Ne 16+ yarn to the best of my knowledge.

The development that I call as ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ is a very highquality fiber. For experimentation, I have made blended yarn blending it with other fiber; cotton and PSF, in different proportions. At first, I made trail yarn through sample spinning machine to find out what is the maximum percentage of ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ that can be used to produce yarn. It was found that ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ could be used from 10% to a maximum of 50% with cotton.

Then I have used it in bulk dry ring spinning process to produce

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 1: Jute Staple Fiber (JSF) can be a new source to meet the need for sustainable fiber for the fashion industry. Courtesy: Reuters

Ne 30/s knit yarn with 20% ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ and 80% PSF. The yarn quality was very good. It was dyed and the fabric quality is also good. Of course, jute fiber requires a separate softening process that was not done but it is possible to remove harshness with proper treatment that is already proven.

In order to see how it performs in the rotor spinning process and to see how much finer yarn count can we produce in dry ring spinning process, we did another bulk trial. We used 20% ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ and 80% cotton as raw material and made yarn in rotor and ring spinning process.

The in-ring process, we produced Ne 38/s weaving. The yarn quality was okay but CSP was low 1700.

Actually, since the micronaire of jute fiber is high, in my opinion up to Ne 30/s we can expect good quality and CSP for both knit and woven yarn. Of course, it is a fashion item with effects similar to linen blends. In the rotor spinning process, we produced Ne 10/s and Ne 18/s. The yarn quality of both counts was very good with 2400 CSP.

Volume 12, Issue 04

In my opinion • In rotor dry spinning process, it would be possible to go for even up to 50/50 blend ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ to produce Ne 6/s to Ne 20/s and we can get high-quality yarn with very good CSP that can be used in producing high-end fashion denim, home textile and suiting and knitting. The in-ring dry spinning process, it would be possible to go for even up to 50/50 blend ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ to produce Ne 6/s to Ne 20/s yarn and we can get high-quality yarn with very good CSP that can be used in producing high-end fashion denim, home textile and suiting.

• In-ring dry spinning process, it would be possible to blend 5% to 20% of ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ to produce Jute blended quality yarn of Ne 20/s to Ne 30/s yarn and we can get high-quality yarn with good CSP that can be used in producing high-end fashion denim, home textile and suiting, shirting and knit garments.

I hope ‘Jute Staple Fiber’ to be used to produce jute blended yarn to produce high-quality fashion items in the future.

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Transforming Human Capital

TEXTILE TODAY TRAINING

Certificate achievers of Knit Dyeing & Finishing under FSD Training program of Textile Today Training.Trainer Md. Rahat Ullah Rashed, Head Of Technical Support of Taiwan Persotex Corporation & Factory trainer Engr. Md. Rashedul Islam, GM (Dyeing & Knitting) of APS Group handed over the Certificates to the trainees.

Certificate achievers of Lean Manufacturing (2nd & 3rd batch) under FSD Training program of Textile Today Training.

Mizaan Rahman, Sr. Manager – HR of Northern Tosrifa Group handed over the Certificates to the trainees.

Certificate achievers of Business Communication under SSD Training program of Textile Today Training. Trainer Md. Nomanuzzaman, Director of HSPP Consultants Ltd. & Certified Master Trainer™ – Dale Carnegie handed over the Certificates to the trainees.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

NORTHERN TOSRIFA GROUP

April 2019 w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

53

BD government constitutes EUR50m loan fund for RMG factory safety Gulshan Spinning achieved higher customer satisfaction for their quality products

6 years of Rana Plaza tragedy BD garment factories are now one of the safest workplace

49

Revolutionary Innovation, New Generation Dyeing Machine Achieves Mission Impossible, Dyer’s Dreams Come True Intelligent Conveyer Drive High Pressure Constant Speed Dyeing Machine

Worldwide patented

Extreme low liquor ratio 1: 2.5~3.5 Save water, steam, energy and chemical more than 65% Reduce waste water and CO2 emission more than 65% Total cost saving more than 65% 20-26 JUNE 2019 FIRA DE BARCELONA, GRAN VIA BARCELONA, SPAIN

Visit us at:

H2-B309

ACME MACHINERY INDUSTRY CO., LTD. TEL: 886-3-3247291~6 E-mail:acmemach@ms26.hinet.net http://www.acmemach.com.tw

Sole Agent: Tel: +88 02 841 5752, 841 8027 Email: shah@leoneint.com Cell phone: + 88 01777815898

April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 43 to 130

44

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Editorial

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

What is financial discipline and how can it be achieved?

Abdul Wadud, CEO & Management Consultant, TRANSFORM Financial discipline is about knowing your numbers. If you cannot measure it, you cannot manage it. The concept is as simple as that.

In order to cultivate financial discipline in a company, there are of course many ways how it can be achieved. As a student of Finance, in my more than twenty years’ experience as a professional, I have always seen and experimented Finance in my own ways and was fortunate to be able to address different challenges in different roles for different organizations.

Some of those challenges were on finance, marketing, supply chain, project planning and implementation, operations, strategy formulation and execution and most importantly people management. In my opinion, we may proceed through the following steps to bring positive outcome and ensure financial discipline in an organization: •T he very existence of an organization is to produce something and sell in the market to make profit. One wing of Finance is supply side or source of the fund; say equity, retained earnings, and short-term longterm debts. The other side of Finance is demand side or investment for man, machine, land, building, system, and entrepreneurship.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

•S trategic alignment of all activities of a company is a tricky thing and single most important element for success.

A strategic plan is required to achieve the mission and vision of a company, keeping in mind the core values of the company. First, a SWOT (Strength, Weakness, Opportunity, and Threat) analysis is done to set a number of strategic goals. The purpose of having a strategic plan is to set some strategic goals for the company, cascade it down to operational activities to achieve those goals and keep the actual activities on track in order to connect the dots between people, customers, stakeholders, and system.

T he owners need to validate their vision, mission, and core values to business professionals to set strategic goals. Professionals eventually cascade it down to different activities to achieve strategic goals. Business professionals can do the job of connecting the dots well only if they are given the responsibility with appropriate authority to fulfill the professional responsibilities.

I n many of the cases, the owners are reluctant to delegate the authority for lack of confidence and trust on professionals where management consultants can be used as a bridge to develop

Volume 12, Issue 04

the leadership and appropriate system for the company.

Eventually, strategic planning needs to be left with the internal business professionals as done by top business houses throughout the world.

•R oll out the annual budget, marketing plan, operational plan, investment plan, financing plan, and Human Resource development plan based on the strategic plan required to achieve the strategic goals. In order to make it clear and easy for all to understand in the same wavelength and avoid ambiguity, try to define the strategic goals, activities, and KPIs (Key Performance Indicators) in measurable units; numeric and/or non-numeric.

•D uring the execution of the above plans, there must be deviations. It is important to continuously monitor the activities against the plan and actual, find out reasons for positive or negative deviations and take corrective actions to keep things on the right track.

We can call it strategic business alignment.

•F inally, we need to evaluate the achievements versus plans to reward based on performance and take future strategic plans based on the experience of the previous plans.

45

Sections under Factory Tales April 2019 Page (43-130)

Page (61-78)

An initiative of Textile Today

Unveiling industr y bes t practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

April 2019

April 2019 A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 43 to 130

w w w. f a c t o r y t a l e s b d . c o m

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 61 to 78

The Team Color removal in biological treatment process

53

Tareq Amin Founder & CEO

BD government constitutes EUR50m loan fund for RMG factory safety

Bio-scouring, a cost-saving trend for knit processing industry

Gulshan Spinning achieved higher customer satisfaction for their quality products

Amzad Hossain Monir Head of Business Development

10 causes and remedies of running shade in knit dyeing

6 years of Rana Plaza tragedy BD garment factories are now one of the safest workplace

49

Revolutionary Innovation, New Generation Dyeing Machine Achieves Mission Impossible, Dyer’s Dreams Come True

Rakibul Islam Soma Akter Nepal Nath Naznin Wahed Business Development

Intelligent Conveyer Drive High Pressure Constant Speed Dyeing Machine

Worldwide patented

Extreme low liquor ratio 1: 2.5~3.5 Save water, steam, energy and chemical more than 65% Reduce waste water and CO2 emission more than 65% Total cost saving more than 65% 20-26 JUNE 2019 FIRA DE BARCELONA, GRAN VIA BARCELONA, SPAIN

ACME MACHINERY INDUSTRY CO., LTD.

Visit us at:

H2-B309

TEL: 886-3-3247291~6 E-mail:acmemach@ms26.hinet.net http://www.acmemach.com.tw

Sole Agent: Tel: +88 02 841 5752, 841 8027 Email: shah@leoneint.com Cell phone: + 88 01777815898

On the Cover: This image captured at APS Group & Advertisement strip showing machinery solution

On the Cover: This image captured at Envoy Textile Ltd. & Advertisement strip showing dyes & chemical solution

Page (79-96)

Rahbar Hossain Editorial Coordinator

Page (97-114) Unveiling industry best practices

Unveiling industry best practices

SN Abdullah Research & Development

Knitting & Knitwear April 2019

April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 97 to 114

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 79 to 96

Rapidly growing denim sector in Bangladesh require top quality yarns

Mahmud Denims Ltd, a name for quality denim fabrics

Sanjoy Kumar Saha Mohammad Nurul Alam Sanaullah Sabuj Engagement & Communication

A good day spent Denim Expert Ltd.

at

Denim makers installing rope dyeing technology to cater the growing demands

Application of lean philosophy can ensure desire profit in knitting (Part – I)

Consistent quality drives N.R. Group to use Pailung knitting machine

Strong backward linkage pushes knitwear sector value addition to 75%

Mosfikur Rahman Video & Graphic Editing Yeasin Mia Graphic Design

On the Cover: This image captured at Envoy Textile Ltd. & Advertisement strip showing excellence in denim production

Ashraful Alam Cinematographer

On the Cover: This image captured at DTG 2019 & Advertisement strip showing machinery solution

Page (115-130)

Sujon Mohalder Asst. Cinematographer

Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 115 to 130

See advertisement at page 87

Riasad Rion Sr. Executive, Web & IT

We should break the fear' that we are not good at communication - Uzzal Dakua

11 ways to maintain professionalism in merchandising

Quality control and audit in sewing for trouser manufacturing

Md. Ariful Islam Md. Masudur Rahman Abir Basak Editorial Contributions www.factorytalesbd.com

On the Cover: This image captured at Denim Expert Ltd. & Advertisement strip showing excellence in machinery solution

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S p i n n i n g To d a y

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Gulshan Spinning achieved higher customer satisfaction for their quality products FT Research Team

Figure 1: Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd produces ring and rotor yarn and well known to their customers for their consistent yarn quality.

Gulshan Group is a renowned business entity in Bangladesh doing diversified business since 1995. Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd, a concern of Gulshan Group, has set their level to the customers by maintaining the consistency of quality.

Bangladesh spinning sector is in the loss for the last few months due to the dumping of yarn, illegal yarn importing, rising cotton price, etc. Here, Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd also suffered due to these reasons. But still, they are maintaining their quality harmony.

Salman A Rahman, Director, Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd, and BTMA said, “Our valued customers know us for quality. They don’t hesitate to pay us extra cents as they are getting a consistent quality product.”

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Quality is the strength Spinning is the backward sector of garments industry. “To produce a quality garment you must need the quality yarn and that is our strength,” Salman said.

“Ensuring quality is not an easy task because Bangladesh does not produce cotton. 100% cotton we have to import from other countries where almost 50%

comes from India. Sourcing raw material is the most vital point to ensure yarn quality and that’s why we source mainly from CIS countries.”

Salman A Rahman mentioned some points by which they maintain quality• Raw cotton source from CIS countries • Ensure high micronaire value

Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd at a glance Establishment year

1995

Product mix

Ne 20 – Ne 50 both Card or Combed & Rotor Yarn 7/s to 20/s

Spindles

123,000 (including rotor)

Cotton sourcing

CIS and West African countries

Machinery

Perkins, Crosrol, Truetzschler, Reiter, SKF, Uster, Jenbackher, Toyota and Muratec

No. of employee

5200

Project value

Approx. USD 50 Million

Volume 12, Issue 04

47

S p i n n i n g To d a y

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

and our fixed sellers understand our demand,” Salman stated.

“We always try to make a report on our own to ensure the raw cotton quality. If we find any extremely low quality lot then we send back. This consumes significant time but we give zero tolerance about quality.”

Figure 3: Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd has state-of-the-art machinery in blow room line.

(micronaire values between 3.7 and 4.2 are optimum for cotton yarn spinning) • Remove dead fibers and PP manually during bale opening • Skilled manpower • Well-equipped laboratory Difficulties in cotton sourcing Usually, spinners have to put their order before the season and it is uncertain that what would be the raw cotton quality. On the other hand, a country like Bangladesh

“Lastly, I would like to say that all together we have built this industry, around 40 million people depends on this sector. So, all the stakeholders and government should nourish this sector for more growth,” Salman concluded.

has no influence in the world cotton market.

“We have some fixed seller and we usually don’t purchase cotton from others.

Because, long term business relation makes things easy that creates commitment

Figure 2: Salman A Rahman, Director, Gulshan Spinning Mills Ltd & BTMA in a conversation with Textile Today Team.

Epyllion bags Sedex Awards 2019 Safety/Labor Program (Suppliers) category for Sedex 2019 Awards.

Staff Correspondent Epyllion Style Limited, one of the leading garment manufacturers and exporters of Bangladesh has won the Sedex Awards 2019 in the Best Health & Safety/Labor Program (Suppliers) category.

The Sedex Awards were presented on Tuesday 26th March 2019 at the Sedex Awards Dinner, Grand Connaught Rooms.

Epyllion has successfully implemented a program related to health and safety and/or labor practices. Epyllion’s driving force is its human spirit. Through responsible manufacturing, Epyllion ensure sustainable business by providing their employees with a safe workplace, improved health & safety conditions, support of education of worker families, and ensuring

48

Figure: Md. Junaid Abu Salay Musa, Director, Epyllion Style Ltd. took the the Sedex Awards 2019 on behalf of their company.

equal rights for all.

“We are delighted to announce the winners for the annual Sedex Awards 2019. The Sedex Awards highlight the best practice projects Sedex members have carried out all over the world across a range of industries to improve working conditions and the environment in supply chains,” said Sedex.

Snowtex Outerwear Limited was shortlisted in the Best Health &

In 2019 Sedex had five awards categories highlighting collaboration, environmental and labor programs. Award entries were shortlisted based on their level of innovation, the scale of impact and implementation, possibility of replication and transparency of communication and leadership.

Other four winners are Dutjahn Sandalwood Oils (Australia) in Best Collaborative Effort category; Driscoll’s (USA) in Best Health/ Safety Labour Programme (Buyers) category; Mace (UK) in Best Environmental Sustainability Programme (Buyers) category and Varcli Pinares (Costa Rica) & Welspun India (India) in Best Environmental Sustainability Programme (Suppliers) category.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Nonwovens, Floor Covering and carpet, Garment, Stocks, Home textiles, Industrial Textiles, Automotive Textiles, Medical Textiles, Window covering, Sales, Inventory, Production, Purchasing, Planning, Production Scheduling, Shop-Floor, Fabric Inspection, Product Development, Business Intelligence, Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Nonwovens, Floor Covering and carpet, Garment, Stocks, Home textiles, Industrial Textiles, Automotive Textiles, Medical Textiles, Window covering, Sales, Inventory, Production, Purchasing, Planning, Production Scheduling, Shop-Floor, Fabric Inspection, Product Development, Business Intelligence, Fiber, Yarn, Fabric, Nonwovens, Floor Covering and carpet, Garment, Stocks, Home textiles, Industrial Textiles, Automotive Textiles, Medical Textiles, Window covering, Sales, Inventory, Production, Purchasing, Planning, Production Scheduling, Shop-Floor, Fabric Inspection, Product Development, Business Intelligence, Socks.

S p i n n i n g To d a y

Rieter offers two new draw frames to ensure best machine quality RSB-D 26 and SB-D 26 offer optimum quality and productivity on a small footprint Desk Report Rieter offers two new draw frames: the double-­head autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 26 and the doublehead draw frame SB-D 26 without autoleveling function. Both draw frames offer a number of innovations resulting in lower production costs, better sliver quality and easier operation and maintenance.

They impress with even greater performance: the double-head autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 26 (Fig. 1) and the double-­head draw frame SB-D 26 without autoleveling function complement each other perfectly. Compared to its predecessor models, the RSB-D 26 with patented ECOrized drive concept has lost a quarter of the belts, numerous drive ele­ments and the differential gear. The frequency-controlled drive for the suction and the individual drive for the coilers are unique (Fig. 2). The straight belt tracking increases the lifetime of the belts considerably.

The new drive solution allows savings of up to EUR 1 500 per year and machine. Over the lifetime of the machines, this means an extremely attractive return on the investment. As a standard feature, the draw frames are now equipped with integrated energy monitoring. This supports preventive maintenance and can reduce the risk of machine failures.

Figure 1: The new RSB-D 26 double-head autoleveler draw frame – maximum productivity combined with precise autoleveling technology for high sliver quality.

autoleveler draw frame RSB-D 26 produce, in practice, at a delivery speed of up to 1 200 m/min.

Depending on the fiber material, this means that up to 33% higher speeds compared to predecessor models are possible. The excellent scanning precision and high autoleveling dynamics of the RSB-D 26 ensure the high level of quality.

Further optimized drafting system Conventional sliver guides in front

of the drafting system pose a risk of incorrect adjustments. The most common consequence of this is non-centric guidance of the slivers and the resulting disturbing faults in the yarn. The patented sliver guide of the new D 26 generation guarantees centric guidance of the slivers at all times (Fig. 3). The web width is set to a reproducible dimension by the simple turning of the guide elements. Additional

Up to 33% more productivity without any loss of quality The draw frame SB-D 26 without an autoleveling function and the

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Figure 2: The servomotor for the coiler allows rapid optimization of the speed.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

S p i n n i n g To d a y

Figure 3: Patented sliver guide for consistent and reproducible quality.

fiber guides in the main drafting field prevent lateral slipping of the edge fibers. As a result, there are fewer disturbing faults in the yarn.

Due to the reduced heating of the lifetime lubricated top rollers, the lifetime is increased and maintenance is reduced. Active sliver separation by the RSB-D 26 ensures trouble-free can changes when processing chemical fibers.

A thin place is deliberately created for this purpose in the autoleveler drafting system which breaks during the subsequent can change.

Clean sliver coiling The CLEANcoil coiler is suitable as standard equipment for all fiber materials. The spiral coiling tube ensures coiling without drafting faults.

Even at high delivery speeds. The honeycomb structure on the coiler underside reliably prevents deposits.

The CLEANcoil-PES coiler for processing 100% polyester (Fig. 4) is new. A special type of coating offers unique advantages in coiling. Even with critical polyester fibers, the production time until the next cleaning cycle can be doubled. This leads to more consistent sliver and yarn quality.

For cotton, the CLEANtube equipment ensures sliver coiling without accumulations of trash.

The intelligent control of the coiler drive ensures that no trash particles and short fibers accumulate in the sliver duct.

The sliver coiler can be quickly optimized during operation if necessary. Individual drives for the can plates allow convenient adjustment of the speed and direction of rotation on the display.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

assistance with analyzing faults, for example by displaying periods and draft waves in the spectrogram.

Operators can thus quickly rectify faults and increase the Figure 4: CLEANcoil-PES: The coiler with a special surface availability of the for 100% polyester doubles the production time until the machine. Connection to next cleaning. the Rieter SPIDERweb mill monitoring system Touch display and LED displays is possible and helps improve the for efficient operation efficiency of the system.

The SB-D 26 and RSB-D 26 use the Minimal space requirements latest generation of controls with a colored touch display. This allows The small footprint of the quick and easy operator guidance. machines makes them ideal LEDs visible from a distance provide for applications where space is information about the status of limited. With a machine width the draw frame, provide clear of less than three meters, the indications for the operator and also SB-D 26 is not only the most allow efficient work (Fig. 5). compact of its class but, together Technological expertise in the machine display Once the raw material data has been input, recommended settings for the whole machine appear on the display. A good standard quality can, therefore, be achieved even when specialists are not available or the staff are inexperienced. The basis is the well-known SLIVERprofessional expert system that is now incorporated into the machine control. Settings can quickly be correctly transferred to other machines via a USB interface.

SLIVERprofessional also provides

Figure 5: The clearly structured display with LEDs visible from a distance allows easy and efficient operation.

Volume 12, Issue 04

with the RSB-D 26, also forms the most compact draw frame line on the market. Both models allow mounting both on the floor of the hall and recessed into the floor. For maximum flexibility regarding sliver feed, there is a selection of variants with cans arranged in two, three or four rows to ensure maximum flexibility for sliver guidance.

Established benefits preserved The new generation of draw frames includes all the unique and in some cases patented features of the predecessor models SB-D 22 and RSB-D 24. The completely independent sides of the machine and the autoleveling of the RSB-D 26 guarantee high sliver quality on both heads. A sensor ensures exact first sliver coils, even with cans where the plates are too low. Constant suction in the drafting system and lifting cleaning lips on the top rollers guarantee the best Classimat values in the yarn.

With the new RSB-D 26 and SB-D 26 draw frames, Rieter has set another milestone in draw frame engineering with the declared aim of offering the customer the best possible machine quality for their mill.

51

S a f e t y To d a y

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

6 years of Rana Plaza tragedy BD garment factories are now one of the safest workplace Akhi Akter, Managing Editor After six years of Rana Plaza tragedy, Bangladesh Readymade Garments (RMG) industry is now standing in a new phase of safety safeguarding for its workers. Collective efforts of the government, factory owners, Western brands and retailers, trade unions, and two inspection bodies—the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh and the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety—have made substantial progress in fire, electrical and structural safety in the garment factories over the past six years. Certainly, garment factories are now safer workplaces than they were before Rana Plaza incident.

As of now, 93% percent of safety remediation has been completed in factories affiliated with the Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety.

It was a collaborative process to ensure workplace safety in Bangladesh’s RMG factories, which includes stakeholders from Bangladesh and US governments, apparel retailers – mostly North American, policymakers and rights organizations.

At the same time, 428 Alliance-affiliated factories have implemented their initial Corrective Action Plans (CAPs).

On the other hand, according to the latest data of the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh, 89% of initial remediation is completed. Total 197 factories have finished the initial remediation, while over 90% remediation is done in 996 RMG factories.

At the same time, the government in association with the International Labor Organization launched an inspection program

52

Collected

for the rest of the apparel factories which were not on the lists of the Alliance and the Accord as both foreign inspection bodies tenure has ended. Alliance already went away from Bangladesh and Accord is on the way to leave.

The government-ILO initiative conducted its initial safety inspection in 1,549 export-oriented garment factories.

Another achievement of the Bangladesh RMG industry is establishing green factories. 300 green readymade garment (RMG) factories are under construction apart from existing 67 such factories in the country.

“A total of 67 RMG factories have so far been certified as ‘green factories’ by the United States Green Building Council (USGBC), and of them, 17 factories are included as the platinum class,” said Tofail Ahmed, former Commerce Minister Tofail Ahmed.

The world’s best seven factories out of the 10 certified by the USGBC are situated in Bangladesh.

BGMEA former President Siddiqur Rahman said, “Environmentfriendly factories have been established in the country, meeting

the best compliance standards of the world. That will increase the confidence of buyers in our clothing industries. It will expand the business as well.”

“The working environment is very peaceful After Rana Plaza incident, I was very scared to work in the garment factory. However, now I feel very safe to work in this sector and I have inspired my elder daughter to work here,” Sumaya Begum, a supervisor of an RMG factory said Textile Today.

Workers and managers are trained up as they can work without any fear of insecurity. They are now very much conscious about the safety issue.

Yes, Bangladesh RMG industry has reached a safe horizon, but safety is a constant journey. There is no doubt that significant problems remain as garment workers are still struggling to meet their basic rights.

However, the initiatives-taken by millers to improve workers and workplace safety- is praisable.

Now need to continue the process of improvement, in that case, if the safety journey continues the remaining problems will not stay for longer.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

53

Textile Today Question of the Month In a recent move, gas distribution companies have proposed Bangladesh Energy Regulatory Commission (BERC) to increase the gas price to Tk 18.04 per cubic meter from Tk 7.76 now for industry. If the proposal is accepted then, gas price will be increased by 132% and it will push the production cost of the garments industry to increase by 5 percent.

Industry leaders claimed that they are paying an additional gas bill for what they are consuming. In addition, they are not getting enough and regular gas supply, however, they have to pay VAT on the gas bill.

Industrial

Captive Power

Tk-5.86- March (7.24), June(7.76)

2017

TK7.76

2018

TK 18.04 Proposed

2019

2017 Gas price trends in Bangladesh (per cubic meter)

2018

TITLE GOES HERE Tk-4.18 –March (8.98), June(9.62) Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna

TITLE GOES HERE

Tk 9.62

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna

TITLE GOES HERE

2019

Tk. 18.88 Proposed

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetuer adipiscing elit, sed diam nonummy nibh euismod tincidunt ut laoreet dolore magna

In this scenario, what should be the government policy in gas supply and its pricing for the textiles and garments industry?

Syed M Tanvir

Abdullah Al Mamun

Director, Pacific Jeans Ltd

Vice President, BTMA

I think the main reason for the gas price hike is to import LNG. Our government is focusing to provide uninterrupted power and gas supply for the manufacturers.

Government has already established economic zones, where the government will ensure uninterrupted gas, power supply for the factories. I hope that the government should set a reasonable gas price which will be helpful for our textile and apparel sector.

The proposal of gas distributors to hike prices is very unclear. There is no clear logic in the presentation seeking to increase the price of gas.

Our local textile millers will be left in a dire situation if a gas price hike is implemented.

Besides we need a long-term policy on gas and electricity, it can be 5 or 10 years policy, so that manufacturers can make proper business decisions.

Osama Taseer Director, Tiffinys Wear Ltd. President, DCCI If the proposed increase of gas rate is effective, the production cost of the industrial sector will be increased.

Government must have to ensure uninterrupted gas supply at cheap prices for the apparel and textile industry as the industry can remain competitive in business with the competing countries such as Vietnam, Indonesia, Myanmar, and Cambodia. Govt should take research initiatives on the valuation of LNG, reducing dependence on imported LNG, reducing system loss and making 3-5-year gas price policies.

54

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

55

Textile Today Question of the Month

Mansoor Ahmed

Mohammad Joheb Rashid

1st Vice President, BKMEA

Chief Executive Officer Pakiza Knit Composite Ltd.

Production cost is increasing day by day but the price is decreasing, though our garment factories did huge progress on safety standards. Our export is growing due to our government support. Our government always tries to support manufacturers.

If we want to achieve the export target of $50 billion from the garment sector, the govt should not raise the gas price. We need energy policy for our industrial sector.

It is getting very difficult for the industry to cope with the new expenses like new wage board, gas price, additional sourching cost etc. The government needs to monitor where we can save money and reduce the unnecessary costs to help this industry. Government should also focus on policy making. Otherwise, there is a possibility that the industry will become less important to the buyers which will affect the entire economy.

Md. Abdul Wadud Chowdhury, Managing Director, Sadia Textile Mills I think the government needs to ensure uninterrupted gas and power supply to all industries at a reasonable price. Every textile miller is losing their business due to interruption in gas and power supply. Recently we have established a dyeing factory and every month we do loss a huge amount because we did not get gas connection yet. Besides, I hope the government should give 10-12 percent cash incentives for primary textile sector.

Engr. Muhammad Mahiuddin Executive Vice President of Robintex Group.

Day by day production cost is increasing due to worker wages, gas price hike and several other issues.

I think the government should take proper decision for gas price implementation so the manufacturing mills can sustain their business. Besides buyers should increase product price considering the production cost augmentation.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Te x t i l e I c o n

Need to set policy for bottom price and order amount to ensure fair price Bangladesh apparel millers did not set any bottom price or they have no standard benchmark as buyers can’t order under a certain amount. This situation is creating unnecessary competition with local millers and it is an obstacle to getting the proper price for their products from buyers.

Mohammad Abdur Rouf, Executive Director, Dekko Accessories Ltd. Retail expert in Bangladesh, Mohammad Abdur Rouf is leading the Dekko Accessories Ltd from March 2017 as Executive Director, who was former Chief Operating Officer (COO) at BRAC-Aarong (Dec 2013 – March 2017).

He completed Doctor of Business Administration (DBA) from IBA of Dhaka University. Recently Abdur Rouf shared his colorific

Bangladesh Textile Today |

experiences and visions about Dekko Accessories Ltd in a recent discussion with Textile Today.

Dekko Accessories Ltd. is the second largest accessories manufacturer locally and one of the pioneer garments accessory companies in Bangladesh operating over the last 21 years.

They are the largest metal and plastic button manufacturer in

Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh.

Dekko Accessories Ltd. produces finest varieties of accessories like woven and printed labels, different types of buttons, poly bags, plastic items, printed hang tags, woven labels, care labels, heat transfer sticker, woven belt, screen printing, embroidery with state-of-the-art technology. With a yearly turnover of USD 40 million.

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Te x t i l e I c o n

Textile Today: You worked long time as the Chief Operating Officer in Bangladesh's largest retail chain Aarong. Now operating business as Executive Director at Dekko Accessories Ltd, please share some experience from your professional life for the Textile Today readers.

Abdur Rouf: I started my career in the local retail sector and worked in many organizations.

I worked at Aarong for almost 8 to 9 years and during my 5 years period as COO, Aarong achieved 110% sales and increased profit margin by 5%.

Basically retail business is B2C but I also wanted to learn the B2B business and that’s why I’m here. I have joined Dekko on 15th March, 2017.

Here, challenges are different and quality is the most important issue. In retailing, we always had to study the customer behaviors but now mostly business are nominated by buyers. Study on customer behavior is now done by buyers and we supply the products according to the buyer requirement.

As 95-98% time we make the products according to buyers’ sample, we have to go through many challenges to ensure accuracy and quality. So, I am enjoying the challenges and it is a great learning opportunity for me I think.

Textile Today: What drives you to come in this sector?

Abdur Rouf: Bangladesh RMG is the biggest economic sector in Bangladesh and almost 84% of export earning comes from this sector. Our total RMG export is now about $33 billion. So, it has more opportunities and my vision is to explore this biggest and challenging sector.

India, Pakistan, Sri-Lanka and China in top management. What I feel is we should lead our own companies. But we are importing foreign experts and they are bringing their deputies. In this way, we are losing our leadership growth in the RMG sector.

Unfortunately, we still can’t present ourselves in the international platform spontaneously, maybe



If a newbie joins the retail or RMG they must know there is a good future and career in this sector.

Top management should also look into it.

Textile Today: Right now what are the action plans to make Dekko Accessories more superior?

Abdur Rouf: First two years I have worked to make the factory fully compliant. Now we are working on technology and good working environment. Because the factory should be like a peaceful place to work. The worker should have a comfortable workplace so that they can work with their dignity.

Globally most of the green factories are in Bangladesh.

Bangladesh has 13 LEED Platinum green factories and around 350 companies are in the pipeline for LEED certification.

But we can’t do price bargaining and we are stuck by expenditure.

If we expect 40 cents more, for sure buyer will cancel the order. Garment manufacturers have to admit the price whatever it is because at the end of the month they have to pay the loan.

The worker mustn’t think workplace as a punishment.

Specially, top management, midmanagement, lower management’s leadership should be set in a string wheeling system.

Textile Today: After implementing the new wage board, garment manufacturers are struggling to secure a minimum profit margin. In this situation, how the accessories sector could help the garment manufacturers?

Abdur Rouf: Dekko had some meeting with garment manufacturers. Actually, our wage percentage also grew in the same way as the garment sector.

Accessory factories are also in pressure because the accessory sector is the backward linkage of the garment sector.

our factory is better than India but their presentation is better than ours. So, the first impression is always the best impression.

Another thing which inspires me to come in the garments sector is the leadership gap.

We are losing orders because of our poor leadership and communication skill. So, there is a leadership gap in this RMG sector and I think I have an opportunity to work in it.

We always import experts from

Another objective is to create

58

a learning culture to develop others. It must be started from somewhere and I think some are doing it.

Buyers are squeezing garment makers and they are giving pressure on their suppliers to reduce price but we have no place to release the pressure.

We are more involved in cost maintaining processes for supporting the garments manufacturers. We are also trying to be a more efficient and developing process. We are also absorbing additional expenditure.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Te x t i l e I c o n

This is how we are co-existing in the business.

Manufacturers can’t afford to import accessories from China, so they are looking for local suppliers.

We can’t do much about price as we have to think about ourselves too. But we are trying to reduce the price whereas we can.

Textile Today: How China is dominating the Bangladeshi accessories market?

Abdur Rouf: In terms of accessories, our main competitors are Chinese companies. Around 60% of accessories still come from abroad. Once we had some limitation and that’s why buyers used to prefer them. But now they are doing irregular manufacturing because of Chinese government policy change. Some of the companies shifting their factory in Bangladesh and Bangladesh government is offering them many facilities which actually will hamper greatly our local accessories manufacturers.

As we know, China is the best at metal factories and if they build a button factory here and bring their system, they can easily reduce their global cost. 75% of work is done in China and the rest 25% of finishing they are doing in our country and exporting. The product we are giving for $5 they are giving it for 3-$4.5.

Many Chinese illegal companies conducting their business from here. Our government should take immediate steps against them.

Textile Today: Globally Bangladesh has achieved a positive image but yet manufacturers don’t get a satisfying price what they always claim. What will be your suggestion to get out from this loop?

Abdur Rouf: I have visited many factories in China.

They don’t allow any buyers in their factory. Just you want the product, get the product and leave! There is no compliance issue. They have unity and strong policy what we don’t have.

But, globally most of the green factories are in Bangladesh. Bangladesh has 13 LEED Platinum green factories and around 350 companies are in the pipeline for LEED certification. But we can’t do price bargaining and we are stuck by expenditure.

If we expect 40 cents more, for sure buyer will cancel the order. Garment manufacturers have to admit the price whatever it is because at the end of the month they have to pay the loan.

Actually, we created the situation on our own because we didn’t set any bottom price. If we see Vietnam, they have a standard benchmark that buyers can’t order under a certain amount.

Also, we don’t have the correct accounting system.

Some use black money so they don’t have to worry about repayment.

So, if we really want to get out from this bad loop we all should think collectively. Our textile bodies like BGMEA, BTMA, and BKMEA, etc. should work more actively then one day we will control the market.

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 61 to 78

U nveiling indus tr y bes t practices

10 causes and remedies of running shade in knit dyeing

April 2019

Bio-scouring, a cost-saving trend for knit processing industry

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Color removal in biological treatment process

62

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Editorial

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Color removal in biological treatment process Kazy Mohammad Iqbal Hossain, South Asia Sustainability Manager, Lindex HK Ltd. The biological effluent treatment plant is one of the most preferable technology in the world for its low operating cost and durability.

Though capital expenditure at the beginning is quite higher than other Physico-chemical treatment plant. Still, most of the textile industry owners in Bangladesh are going for replacement of their conventional effluent treatment plant with 100% biological effluent treatment system.

But the biggest challenges that factories are facing regarding biological effluent treatment plant is the removal of color. The outlet wastewater after treatment does not seem very transparent as like Physico-chemical treatment plant.

Though the legal requirements for color in Bangladesh or in most of the countries in the world are not so stringent but still it’s a matter of mental satisfaction and aesthetical issue.

So, a common question is arising from factories- then what is the way of removing color in biological effluent treatment system?

First of all, we have to understand the reason for color in wastewater.

There could be two reasonsundecomposed/ un-oxidized suspended solid and the presence

oxidation process can breakdown and decompose most of those, however, still, there is something which is not suitable for a micro-organism to decompose-this is the reason for color.

But obviously, there are some acceptance limit in regulations for Figure 1: Textile millers are looking for the way of color, such as ECR’97 removing color in the biological effluent treatment for BD allow 15 co-pt. system.

And I believe the after treatment wastewater of advance of soluble solids which show biological process is able to deliver optical color properties. For textile wastewater within this limit. wastewater- I can say mostly the first one, i.e. suspended solid is responsible. Normally biological effluent treatment system is not able to decompose/ oxidize (biologically) all of the suspended solids present in the wastewater, especially those which contain complex chemical structure, high molecular weight and have longer half-lives.

One can imagine easily that some of the new generations of organic dyes contain all of these behaviors.

In some special case-biological effluent treatment plant with modern technology is allowing very high number microbial colony (very high MLSS), the induced

Figure 2: Need to go for chemical color removal process after biological treatment for complete removal of color.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

If you want the complete removal of color in conventional biological treatment plant- you have to go for the chemical color removal process after biological treatment.

Chlorine, H202, O3 (or any other commercial color remover). The use of Chlorine is very effective but it itself is very hazardousproper caring is required to handle this-and of course after chlorination, the wastewater needs to go through the dechlorinating process to remove residual amount.

H202 is also very active regent for color removal but as hazardous as Chlorine, but the removal of residue may not be required. O3 is the safest decoloring agent which does not remain any residue but the generation of Ozone is a costly process. I prefer Chlorine gas to use in this regard, because it also kills micro-organism in the outgoing wastewater. And Chlorine gas can be found as a byproduct from industrial synthesis (e.g.

HCl plant.). But a big remark for that-“Proper Caring is required to Handle Chlorine gas and Dechlorination is Mandatory.”

63

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Knit Fabric Dyeing

10 causes and remedies of running shade in knit dyeing FT Research Team Running shade in knit dyeing factories is the most common and frequently happening problem which leads to a huge loss for the factory in terms of money and time.

What is running shade?

Running shade is more specifically meter to meter variation of shade in fabric. So, basically when dyes cannot migrate properly in the whole fabric thus exhaustion of dyes in fabric becomes uneven which leads to running shade or uneven dyeing.

If running shade occurs, definitely there needs re-process which causes some severe problems.

Running shade also hampers production time, reduce efficiency and production output which directly converted into money.

Shrinkage problem • GSM problem • Poor fabric strength and fabric quality • Importantly fabric surface become more hairy • Not meeting the lead time • Extra chemical and process cost etc.

Possible causes and remedies of running shade So, there are some important causes which lead to running shade which is given below: 1. Lack of proper combination of dyes 2. Not maintaining exact dyeing process 3. Lack of proper amount of salt and alkali dosing 4. Lack of quality products and proper products in the bath 5. Lack of proper alkali dosing 6. Lack of proper pretreatment 7. Not selecting good leveling agent 8. Lack of awareness for water quality

64

40’

60oC

3’

15’

Dyes

20’

20’

20’

Salt

20’ Soda 2g/l

Auxilaries + Levelling agent + Sequestering agent + Anti-foam + Anti-crease

10’

30’

Rest of alkali Progressive 70%

Linear dosing

Figure: Standard procedure to dye evenly in knit dyeing.

9. Not maintaining proper machine and material operation by the operator 10. Lack of proper after treatment Possible remedies of running shade: 1. First of all, the combination of dyes meaning the exhaustion and fixation curve of the dyes must be more or less similar. If there is a significant difference, it will create running shade.

2. Dyeing process: Standard dyeing process should be maintained that means dosing of chemicals and dyes should be of sequence wise and maintain required temperature and pH for the specific chemical and dyes.

3. The proper amount of salt and alkali needed in the liquor because if there is excess salt in the liquor then fiber affinity will be increased thus migration of dyes will be less which leads running shade.

4. Select quality product and proper product for the specific purpose.

5. Properly alkali dosing is important because when pH > 9.9 then dyes will not

migrate only fixation will occur.

6. Proper pre-treatment is badly needed to make sure fabric and liquor is free from impurities, so, a good wash is mandatory. (For better result, one may use- Persoclean STN) 7. Good leveling agent should be used. On the other way, dyes will be precipitated because when there is the hardness in the water, metal gets complex bond with dyes thus improper dyes distribution in the liquor causes running shade.

8. Ensure good water quality (standard less than 40ppm). If it is 40 or less than 40 then use sequestering agent and if it is <= 10ppm, sequestering agent will not be required.

9. The operator should be aware of machine and material operation which means sequence of dosing amount of dosing and machine RPM. 10. Lastly, proper after treatment is essential. When using softener, proper PH and softener size is must and when there is excessive unfixed dyes on the surface of fabric use proper soap to remove it perfectly.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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Volume 12, Issue 04

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E n z y m e To d a y

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Bio-scouring, a costsaving trend for knit processing industry FT Research Team Bangladesh knit sector is one of the largest knit garments manufacturing industries for global fast fashion brands. With consistently decreasing prices and shortening delivery times in the world of fast fashion, the knit sector in Bangladesh has been experiencing profitability crisis. In recent times, the situation has been worsening with the increasing production cost and reducing the price from the buying brands. Maintaining the environmental impact of production is also a burdening issue. The garments owners are eager to adapt the solutions to cut down the expenses to sustain their business.

This circumstance is additionally affecting the suppliers related to the sector. Dye chemical manufacturers continue to invest heavily in innovation to remain economically feasible by introducing new products which are environmentally and economically sustainable, which are also able to increase productivity with less use of resources, saving energy, time etc.

In knit dyeing and processing, there is as yet an enormous scope to cut the cost of dyeing.

For knit fabric pre-treatments bio-scouring is the option which saves chemicals, water, time and energy. However, this process was not welcomed by most of the dyeing factories as this process has some technical and quality challenges to maintain.

But in recent time some chemical

66

manufacturers and suppliers bring revolutionary development in bio-scouring product and process that significantly solved the issue. Company owners getting confidence and this bio-scouring process is becoming a trend in the knit pre-treatments process.

Bio-scouring, multi-scouring and combined bio-scouring plus biopolishing Enzymatic scouring or bioscouring can simply be defined as the application of Pectinase enzyme to remove the natural and added impurities from fabric for absorbency. There are several bioscouring products in the market now. Some manufacturers claim multi-scouring as bio-scouring, while multi scouring is nothing but a mixture of all conventional scouring and bleaching chemical in one or two combined product.

Combined bio-scouring plus bio-

polishing is a single product of Cellulolytic Pectate Lyse enzyme produced by the genetically modified organism. Enzyme base bio scouring product is 100% biodegradable.

Economic perspective of bioscouring Bio-scouring process is very much economical and cost-effective compared to traditional scouring.

By considering the following parameters for cost analysis it is found that this process reduces 30%-45% of the total annual cost which adds a significant amount of profit to the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual turnover.

1. Less chemical cost 2. Energy saving 3. Time-saving 4. Less water consumption 5. Preserved fabric strength and weight

Table-1: Chemical Consumption: Traditional Scouring vs Bio scouring/Combined Bio Scouring plus Bio-Polishing Traditional Scouring

Bio Scouring

Combined Bio scouring + Enzyme

1. Detergent

Detergent

Detergent

2. Sequestering Agent

Acetic Acid

Acetic Acid

3. Soda Ash

Bio Scouring Enzyme

Combined Bio scouring & Bio polishing Enzyme

4. Caustic Soda 5. Hydrogen Peroxide 6. Stabilizer 7. Peroxide Killer 8. Acetic Acid 9. Bio polishing Enzyme

Bio-Polishing Enzyme

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

P r o c e s s i n g To d a y

Table-2: Benefits of Combined Bio scouring plus Bio-Polishing over Traditional Scouring and Enzyme Regular Process

Bio Scouring plus enzyme

Savings

Chemical cost per KG

4.5 BDT – 6 BDT

3.5 BDT – 4.5 BDT

1 taka – 2 taka

Total time

3 hours – 4 Hours

1 hours – 1.3 Hours

2 hour

Chemical Consumption

7–8 chemicals

2– 3 chemicals

4– 5 chemicals

Dyes Consumption

Regular

10% -12% less

10% -12% less

Total No. of Bath

5

2

3

Total Water litter/kg

40 – 50 litter/kg

14– 20 litter/kg

26 litter/kg

Steam Temp Required

98°C

55°C

43°C

Process Loss

10-11%

8-9%

1-2%

Effect on High ETP(COD&BOD)

Low

ETP Chemicals

Nature

Bio-degradable

ETP cost

Hazardous

6. Less weight loss of fabric 7. Less dyes required 8. Less effluent treatment cost Benefits of bio-scouring 1. Process simplicity: Combined scouring and bio polishing carried out in a single bath.

2. Reduce process time: As scouring and bio-polishing occur in the same bath it reduces pretreatment time significantly.

3. Increase production: Bioscouring reduces processing time and enables increased production throughput.

4. Reduced water consumption: In a single bath it performs scouring and bio polishing together. So at least 3 baths can save.

5. Save energy: Can work as low as 55 °C. Incoming process water needs minimal heating to bring the bath into operating temperatures, reducing the time and saving energy.

6. Preserved fabric strength and weight. Enzymatic Scouring process provides better treatment without aggressive change to the underlying fabric fibers. This provides higher fabric strength and weight retention when compared to

Bangladesh Textile Today |

traditional caustic scouring.

7. Low process loss: Due to gentle action of the enzyme on the surface of the fabric, it retains more natural structure than classic scouring process. It reduces the use of dye to achieve the desired color, or the same amount of dye to increase dye color intensity.

8. Save ETP chemicals: As bioscouring is an enzyme-based product, it is totally biodegradable so, the process releases minimum TDS on ETP thus minimize the usage of ETP chemical.

Technical challenges of multiscouring and bio-scouring 1. Absorbency: Multi scouring could not provide absorbency as traditional scouring, whereas if bio-scouring applied with good quality detergent that provides very good absorbency.

2. Light shade: Deep shade like Black or Navy could dye very easily both by multi scouring & bio-scouring. But it is difficult to dye light shade. In the market, some manufacturers recently bring bio-scouring that could dye up-to 1% shade easily.

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Silkflex launches all ranges of AOP inks along with denim & taffeta fabrics FT Research Team SILKFLEX is the leading manufacturer of eco-friendly water-based textile printing inks worldwide. In addition to their impeccable record for product consistency and chemical compliance, they have achieved GOTS, REACH, Oeko-Tex, ZDHC Gateway, etc. certificates.

SILKFLEX is nominated chemical suppliers for PUMA, C&A, and H&M. In Bangladesh, they are operating a business for the last 12 years and now they have around 200 customers here.

Recently Silkflex global team visited Chattogram arena to explore the market, showed the latest developments, solved the problems of factories and gave a possible solution. They visited Pacific Jeans Ltd, Figure 1: Various types of special printing developments of SILKFLEX Jay Jay Mills (Bangladesh) Private Ltd, and Sea Tex Ltd. products of water inks for special complication of these types of Based on the visit, Dr. Eric HL paste for NYLON / POLYESTER fabric print by introducing waterTAN, Managing Director of Silkflex / TAFFETA fabric (SILKFLEX based inks for Taffeta, Nylon and Polymers Sdn Bhd, Malaysia shared NYLON PE WHITE SNPW-1905, Polyester fabric. Water based his view about Chattogram factories Silkflex Nylon PE Clear SNPCinks donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t contain any banned and the prospect of business in 1906).

Normally for taffeta fabric, chemicals, no failure in Azo test, Chattogram. factories are using solvent based Phthalate test or any banned The Silkflex global team also (petroleum oil based) inks which are chemicals. We also visited Young includes Md. Kabir Mollah, nowadays prohibited by most of the One at DEPZ to solve the issue of Managing Director, Silkflex brand and retailers as solvent-based Nylon and Taffeta fabric print by Bangladesh Limited; Thian Own inks contain banned chemicals (as these new products.

Chin, Technical Director, Silkflex per ZDHC MRSL guidelines).

Prospect of printing in Chattogram Polymers Sdn Bhd, Malaysia, and Years after years, the factories Engr. Ahmed Javed Jamal, Head of What we have seen that most who are working for screen print Technical Operations & Marketing of the printing factories in on Nylon, Polyester and Taffeta of Silkflex Bangladesh Ltd. Chattogram area are working for fabric, they face problems for printing on woven, denim and Chattogram printing market both brand and retailerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s chemical polyester based fabrics. Recently and physical test requirements.

During Chattogram visit we many factories are also working SILKFLEX has made easier the introduced our newly launched 68

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Figure 2: SILKFLEX Global team with Pacific Jeans Ltdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s supply chain and printing team.

Sl

Silkflex All Over Printing Inks

Specialties

1

SILKBOND 35(BINDER)

Nano-polymer dispersion for cotton and synthetic fabric High Opacity Brilliant White Paste with excellent elasticity

2

Premium AOP White

3

AOP White XT

High Opacity White Paste for color mixing

4

AOP White

High Opacity white paste for direct printing

5

AOP White HV

High Viscosity White Paste

6

AOP Clear

Clear Paste with excellent wet/dry rub fastness

7

AOP Aquadis White

White Paste for discharge like print

8

AOP Aquafoil Gold

Golden paste for direct printing foil effect

9

AOP Aquafoil Silver

Silver Paste for direct printing foil effect

10

AOP Aquafoil Clear

Clear paste for direct printing colored foil effect

11

AOP Gloss Gel(GLITTER PRINT)

Clear paste for gloss enhancement and glitter print

12

AOP Stiffener

Clear Paste to improve stiffness of fabric

13

AOP Emboss

Direct print puff ink

14

AOP Glow in the Dark

Soft feel efflorescent ink

15

AOP Silicon White/Clear

Silicon like ink

Sl

Silkflex All Over Printing Additives

Specialties

1

Nylon Oxal

Eco friendly adhesion promoter

2

Cross Linker

Eco friendly additive to improve toughness and durability

3

Defoamer MO

Additive to reduce surface foam

4

Softener SL

Additive to improve the softness and slip

5

Silkwet

Additive to wet improve wetting, fabric penetration and emulsification of organic solvents in water

6

Retarder

Additive to increase the drying and wet edge times

7

Disperse

Additive to improve the dispersibility of solids and dispersion in water

8

Thickener

Thickening Agent for aqueous systems

for knit fabric printing. There are almost 150 printing factories whether it is small or large in Chattogram area. The reputed brand and retailers are also increasing their printing fabrics orders in Chattogram based on different factories. Moreover, there are three existing EPZs (Chattogram EPZ, Korean EPZ, and Karnafuli EPZ) in Chattogram. So, there have been a huge potential market

Bangladesh Textile Today |

in Chattogram after Dhaka and Gazipur based printing factories.

Challenges Now the brand and retailers are requiring different chemical restrictions which is actually good for everyone. Because all are now concerned to use eco-friendly chemicals and inks for printing the fabrics. On the other hand, they reduce the price for printing

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garments. For that, most of the factories face challenges to use good quality products to meet the Brand Retailerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s given price.

In this case, brands can revise the price issue. Also, the printers in Bangladesh are not yet aware to use eco-friendly chemicals as they claim that brands are not given them a sustainable price.

These can be solved mutually understanding by policymakers.

Opportunities At Chattogram, there is a huge opportunity in the printing area as Bangladesh already is famous for excellence in printing fabric all over the world. Day by day, the printing fabric orders from different buyers are increasing. The good quality printing inks directly or indirectly also contribute to these. SILKFLEX is supporting all of its customers by technical know-how in Bangladesh.

SILKFLEX is very popular for screen printing inks, but recently Silkflex AOP series is developed to provide viable high-quality alternatives to the current global market of products with relatively limited performance. The Silkflex AOP introduces a new dimension to rotary and flatbed printing by providing excellent physical and chemical performance in addition to the creation of unique specialty prints that are not previously available.

SILKFLEX is going to be arranged AOP Seminar in upcoming September 2019.

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AATCC conference focuses on building future innovation ecosystem through collaboration Special Correspondent With the “Innovating Today for a Challenging Tomorrow” theme the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) organized its 2019 International Conference from April 9-11 at the Sheraton Downtown in Fort Worth, Texas.

Microfiber pollution, Chinese regulatory actions on textiles and personal microclimates were on the AATCC agenda.

Presenters included executives from Figure: Textile professionals of several countries participated at the AATCC international conference.

JCPenney, Lands’ challenge. To be success they have End, Honeywell, trusted automation and strategic Cotton Incorporated, Lenzing partnership with innovation. and the NCTO’s Microfibers Committee, among many others.

AATCC International Conference Trey Bowles, Cofounder and focused several issues including Executive Chairman of the Dallas fiber, fabric and materials Entrepreneur Center, provided innovations; technology and the keynote address on “Building process innovation; product design the Future Innovation Ecosystem and supply chain challenges and through Collaboration.” environmental challenges and



As we look at the changing workforce requirements over the next few decades, it is essential that we figure out how to develop ecosystems driven by collaboration. Through working together we can ensure that all stakeholders in an ecosystem are working together to provide necessary education, training, and development to ensure our future workers are adequately prepared to ensure innovation is possible.

The keynote explored the key components of an innovation ecosystem and how by working collaborative we have the best chance of innovating today for the 70

AATCC International Conference focused on fiber, fabric and materials innovations; technology and process innovation; product design and supply chain challenges and environmental challenges and planning for the future.

challenges of tomorrow.

Two USA companies who are the textile manufacturers shared their opportunities with challenges, both companies took speed to market as their main opportunity and regulations as their current

planning for the future.

First day session end up with student paper competition followed by welcoming reception at the exhibit area.

Textile professionals from various countries participated in this international conference including Bangladesh. Bangladeshi participants included Sanjeewa Malaviarachchi from A&E Thread Bangladesh; Ruwanga Prasad Yatawara from Harris & Menuk; Janitha Kulasekara from Jeanologia; Hafizur Rahman (Nixon) from Swiss Color and Azeez Asukeen from Harris & Menuk.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

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Zhejiang Runhe Chemical New Material Co. Ltd.

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Sustainable Chemicals

NICCA seminar focuses on recent challenges and opportunities of textile industry Staff Correspondent Hong Kong Nicca Chemical Ltd. is contributing proactively engaging textile mills and brands in Bangladesh to reduce environmental footprint and to drive sustainable excellence to compete in the global market.

Bangladesh’s textile industry is the world’s second-largest apparel exporter after China. This industry is having double digit growth year on year basis. The industry also accounts for 20% of Bangladesh’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP), with more than three-quarters of its total exports heading to Europe and the US. NICCA Chemical Co. Ltd is a leading global leader in developing sustainable, high performing processing and effects chemicals that have low environmental impact. NICCA co-organized a technical seminar entitled ‘Activate your life using sustainable and innovative chemicals’ with its agent JB Chem-Bridge Ltd. on 23 March in Dhaka.

The event brought together more than 100 representatives from textile mills, brands, retailers, NGOs and academic institutes to discuss the challenges and opportunities they collectively face in the apparel and textile industry. Covering a multitude of issues ranging from the ZDHC and innovative environment products and solutions to meet the industry’s toughest challenges, each topic was designed to help create value-add for the respective textile segments.

Kotaro Takeuchi, GM of Bangladesh Liaison office was there in welcoming all the guests from the factories.

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Figure : NICCA Chemical Co. Ltd. co-organized a technical seminar with its agent JB Chem-Bridge Ltd. that held on 23 March.

Biswajit Banik, Senior Country Manager for Nicca who is having huge experience in working for other leading multinational companies, lead the technical seminar as master of the ceremony.

“The contents are comprehensive, insightful and up-to-date, providing textile stakeholders with an excellent overview of some of the industry’s challenges and Japanese expertise and technical know-how. R&D capabilities along with its innovative products and solutions further boosted our confidence that NICCA is the Go-To Partner to help us meet our environmental targets,” commented Danny Leung, Executive Director of South China Bleaching and Dyeing Factory Ltd. “Creating a sustainable textile value chain is one of the top priorities in the textile industry.

As one of the global leaders in addressing industry challenges with sustainable products and solutions meeting economic and ecological needs, NICCA is

committed and well positioned to help the industry address these challenges. NICCA will continue to invest and collaborate with various stakeholders in Bangladesh to help the industry minimize their environmental footprint and to meet sustainability targets to compete in the global market,’ said Atsu Kobayashi, Managing Director, Textile Division, Nicca Chemical Co., Ltd. Asia is a key growth market for NICCA Textile Division. In the last few years, NICCA have invested $30M in the region. These include world-class distribution centers and facilities located in China, Indonesia, Thailand, and Taiwan.

In addition, a state-of-the-art NICCA Innovation Centre in Fukui, Japan was also established to complement all the facilities across the globe and for all the customers. These measures firmly positions NICCA as a truly competitive global and regional chemical manufacturer and demonstrate its confidence in the growth of the textile industry in Asia.

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Sunichem offers textile printing solutions Two seminars were organized by Sunichem Corporation, China and Dysin-Chem Ltd., Bangladesh mainly for introducing Sunichem Corporation in Bangladesh textile market Staff Correspondent Right time product delivery is one of the key challenges of the textile and apparel industry. To overcome the challenge DysinChem Ltd. can help the millers through a comprehensive range of products. Dysin is the largest Dyestuff and Chemicals supplier and technical service provider for the Bangladesh Textile Industry.

It is the pioneer to introduce new technologies for the knit-dyeing, garments washing and garments printing industries in Bangladesh.

Speakers from Dysin, C&A and ZDHC pointed out this above issue in the recent two seminars titled ‘Textile Printing Following C&A Quality and Safety Standard’ and ‘Textile Printing Complying with Major Brands’ Standard and ZDHC’. The seminars were jointly organized by Sunichem Corporation, China and DysinChem Ltd., Bangladesh on 28 and 30 March in the city.

Amanur Rahman, Managing Director of Dysin International Ltd. said, “Expert technical support and extensive laboratory services have been the key to our growth.”

Figure 1: Organizers and participants posed for a picture in ‘Textile Printing Following C&A Quality and Safety Standard’ seminar.

to remove existing problems in pigment printing.

They highlighted Sunichem’s research and production of textile-related specialty chemicals and materials.

“By always striving for the best quality and aiming higher, we proudly see our products being used globally including coating, printing, flocking and finishing application, etc. We are committed to achieving excellence and creating values through innovation and sustainable development.

Poor color brightness and poor fastness, normally reach a level less than 3 degrees, are great problems in pigment printing.

Sunichem offered a solution of these problems.

They mentioned that Sunichem is meeting quality and chemical safety in different textile printings.

It is maintaining the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC)’s goal to eliminate the use of priority hazardous chemicals to supply enviro-friendly chemicals.

In these seminars, Sunichem Corporation was introduced to Bangladesh market. Introducing Sunichem Corporation, Amanur Rahman said that Sunichem is a leading manufacturer with core competencies in research, formulation, production of textile related specialty chemicals and materials, the textile coating process and non-waste water printing and dyeing projects for industrial uses.

Sunichem representatives showed that how Sunichem will support

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure 2: Question-answer session in the ‘Textile Printing Complying with Major Brands’ Standard and ZDHC’ seminar.

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Huntsman and Swiss Colours roundtable shows the way to improve productivity Desk Report More than 20 senior leaders from key Bangladeshi textile companies came together in Bangkok to discuss challenges and opportunities in textile wet processing as competition in the sector intensifies around the world, according to a PR.

Figure: The Huntsman Textile Effects and Swiss Colours Bangladesh team with some senior leaders

and key decision makers from the Bangladesh textile industry.

The roundtable meeting, jointly expertise and our technologies to Commercial, at Huntsman Textile organized help our customers produce higher Effects.

by Huntsman Textile Effects value products from a cleaner and and Swiss Colours Bangladesh, “Our aim is to enable our more efficient supply chain,” Rohit provided a forum for business customers to stay at the forefront Aggarwal also added. leaders to exchange ideas on of industry trends and regulatory how textile manufacturers in The roundtable also included a changes and create a more Bangladesh can improve their tour of Huntsman Textile Effect’s successful and sustainable textile productivity and move up the world-class manufacturing site at industry in Bangladesh,” added value chain, said the PR. Mahachai, which is about 50 km Chuck Hirsch.

It was also an opportunity for the group to explore innovative new technologies and process innovations.

Speaking at the roundtable, Rohit Aggarwal, Huntsman Textile Effects President, said, “As the long-term partner of Bangladesh's textile industry leaders, we are fully committed to driving sustainable solutions that are environmentally friendly and economically sound.”

“We believe in collaboration and are pleased to be able to share our

Bangladesh Textile Today |

outside the Thai capital.

Participants saw how Huntsman’s high-quality reactive, wool and polyamide dyes and digital inks are produced and discussed environmental, health and safety (EHS) best practices with leaders at the site.

The textile and ready-made garments (RMG) sector accounts for 84% of the annual exports of Bangladesh, and downstream investment in textile processing is increasing to keep up with higher demand for high-quality dyed and printed fabric from local exporters.

“Bangladesh is an important market for Huntsman Textile Effects and we work closely with our partner Swiss Colours to provide customized and innovative solutions for this market,” said Chuck Hirsch, Vice President,

Price pressure in the sector remains intense, and costs are increasing as wages rise and mills make changes to meet stricter EHS standards and remove restricted chemicals from the supply chain.

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Market Analysis

Fabric care market expected to rake in revenues worth US$ 152 billion by 2027 Desk Report

Fabric care detergents, a product type segment, is projected to gain significant growth in the global fabric care market owing to the increasing use of liquid fabric care products, rise in the adoption of washing machines in developing countries, frequent launch of new fabric care products that are compatible with various types of washing machines and the ease of use associated with liquid fabric care detergents as compared to soaps, bars and blocks are some of the key factors driving the demand for fabric care products across the globe. Moreover, rapidly growing population, increasing per capita expenditure on household cleaning products, expanding global FMCG industry and the growing trend of hygienic personal care are also among factors that are expected to boost the demand for fabric care products during the forecast period.

Companies in the fabric care market are adopting various marketing strategies to increase their market share, revenue, penetration and customer base.

For instance, various players offer combo deals, which helps boost

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Global Fabric Care Market Share (%)

By Product Type (2018)

48.7%

Fabric Detergents

Fabric Softeners/ Enhancers

Stain Removers /Bleach

Others Fabric Care Products

CAGR of 5.9% (2018-2027)

According to the market report published by Future Market Insights (FMI) titled â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Fabric Care Market: Global Industry Analysis 2013-2017 and Opportunity Assessment 2018-2027â&#x20AC;&#x2122; the revenue generated from fabric care is estimated to be valued at over US$ 90,658.6 mn in 2018, which is projected to increase at a CAGR of 5.9% during the forecast period (2018-2027).

Source: Future Market Insights, 2018 Note: Market shares are not depicled as per the actual scale and are only for illustration purposes.

their sales & generate profits.

But, nowadays, consumers are not only concerned about buying natural and green-label home care, personal care, and fabric care products, also demanding environment-friendly packaging.

Thus, growing consumer expectations for eco-friendly packaging and consciousness about the detrimental effects of fabric care containers and plastic packaging on the environment are projected to accelerate the growth of the natural fabric care market worldwide.

The global fabric care market is segmented on the basis of regions, which include North America, Latin America, Asia Pacific Excluding Japan (APEJ), Europe, Middle

East, Africa, and Japan. Among all the regions, the Asia Pacific excluding Japan and Europe regions are estimated to have a substantial value share. In terms of value, APEJ is the most attractive region in the global fabric care market and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.9% over the forecast period. In the global fabric care market, the region is expected to gain 278 BPS during the forecast period.

On the basis of product type, the fabric care market is segmented into fabric detergents, fabric softeners/enhancers, stain removers/bleach, and other fabric care products. In 2018, the fabric detergents segment accounted for the highest revenue share of 48.7% in global fabric care.

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Volume 12, Issue 04

Unveiling industry best practices

D e n i m F a b r i c & E ff e c t s April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 79 to 96

Rapidly growing denim sector in Bangladesh require top quality yarns

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April 2019

Denim makers installing rope dyeing technology to cater the growing demands

Knitting & Knitwear

A good day spent at Denim Expert Ltd.

Unveiling industry best practices

Mahmud Denims Ltd, a name for quality denim fabrics

MAHMUD FASHION LIMITED MAHMUD DENIMS LIMITED MAHMUD SPINNING LIMITED MAHMUD JEANS LIMITED MAHMUD WASHING PLANT LIMITED MAHMUD INDIGO LIMITED MAHMUD WOVEN DYEING LIMITED

CORPORATE OFFICE: House-25, Road 10, Sector-6, Uttara Model Town, Dhaka-1230, Bangladesh. Tel: +88-02-8961594, Fax: +88-02-8961508 FACTORY: Shafipur, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Phone: 0682-251117, Fax: 0682-251116 , Hartokitola, Chandra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur. Phone: +88 0666 8114007 80

info@mahmudgroup-bd.com, www.mahmudgroup-bd.com Bangladesh Textile Today

|

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Building sustainalble supply chain in denim industry FT Research Team

Denim is a fixture of the apparel industry and a wardrobe staple for millions around the world. Denim is one of the most popular types of clothing around the world and practically everyone has a favorite pair they pull on when all else fails.

But unfortunately, the mass appeal of denim has turned into a problem for our environment and for the people who produce it.

Denim is one of the dirtiest garments in the clothing industry.

But the industry should practice the sustainable supply chain.

Right now, many are trying to find some sort of consensus on what it means to be sustainable. Individual companies are spending on safety and sustainability certifications, like the Higg Index, Cradle to Cradle, or ISO 9000. The problem is, they pay millions to get a snapshot of the processes used to make a product, but there’s still no high-level awareness or data collection on the industry as a whole.

The industry—valued at more than $57 billion, according to P&S Market Research, which also says the sector will experience an annual growth rate upward of 6 percent through 2023. Denim jeans have been a fashion staple for over 150 years so it is not going anywhere soon. That’s why the industry needs to find ways to help clean up the process and build a more sustainable supply chain.

Figure: The denim industry needs to support a sustainable supply chain.

standards. Levi’s has separate requirements for a denim product than J.Crew, BLK DNM or Gap. And it’s really up to the mills creating these jeans to meet each requirement.

So in order for a mill to differentiate themselves from competitors, they get every sustainability and manufacturing certification possible—and it’s incredibly inefficient. On one hand, it’s laudable that many of these companies are spending the time and money to get their production practices certified as sustainable. Yet no one has a clear understanding about which certifications matter to consumers or how they all stack up against each other.

According to Samantha Radocchia, a blockchain entrepreneur and CoFounder of Chronicled, the denim industry has to follow the below conditions to ensure sustainable supply chain:

The industry can start by examining every standard and finding areas where they overlap.

A single standard is the first step in getting to network-wide, industry-wide interoperability.

Once that happens, the industry then needs a system that allows it to track how well people are following the standard.

The denim industry should follow a single standard

The denim industry should create an ecosystem

Right now, every company and manufacturer has different

The real value will come from bringing the denim industry

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Volume 12, Issue 04

together to create an ecosystem focused on sustainability. Once an ecosystem is established, it opens up the doors for using a blockchain payment system that incentivizes good behavior. As each participant in the supply chain achieves goals, like meeting the new standard, they can automatically receive discounts or rewards that incentivize them to continue working in a sustainable, ethical manner.

Companies can prove their products are sustainable or more environmentally-friendly by putting their manufacturing records on the blockchain, and that will illuminate who is and isn’t living up to the standards.

The final step is a move towards localized, on-demand production This is what’s known as a demand chain, and it’s going to be a total reinvention of how denim and other garments are produced in the first place. In this system, companies will no longer have to rely on centralized manufacturing.

Rather, they’ll send design files to autonomous machines at different locations, where customers will wait while the clothing is quickly made on-site.

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Figure 1: Bangladeshi denim manufacturers are installing rope dyeing technology to meet increasing demand as well as value addition.

Denim makers installing rope dyeing technology to cater the growing demands FT Research Team A couple of denim fabric makers have introduced the latest technology mainly to cater to the growing demands and earn more through value addition, industry people said.

Rope dyeing is one such technology that local denim fabric makers are installing in their units in recent years, they added.

Moreover, denim makers are now expanding their capacity to sustain in the long run, grab the growing global demand for fashionable denim wear shifting from China following the trade war between China and the USA. Many of the 32 local denim mills are going for expansion while a couple more will come into operation with fresh investment within the next two or three years, they said.

Syeed Ahmed Chowdhury, General Manager Operation at Square Denim, said the company expanded its denim fabric production capacity to 2.5 million

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yards last year from 1.2 million yards per month mainly to meet the demand.

Work orders from US buyers are increasing here in the country as they are decreasing their sourcing from China due to the trade war between the two countries, Syeed Ahmed said adding at part of buyers’ shifting orders from China, they are relocating their fabric orders first.

“Though orders are on an upward trend, US buyers are offering very ‘tougher’ rate for locally produced items,” Chowdhury noted.

India and Pakistan are offering more competitive price than Bangladesh because of their devalued rupees. They have their own raw materials and Bangladesh is facing tough competition with them, he said.

There is no alternative to expansion to sustain the existing business and achieve the $50 billion garment export earnings target by 2021,

industry people said.

Despite all odds, the country will lead denim garment making across the globe as it has already developed a strong washing capacity, they said China, India and Pakistan are major competitors of Bangladesh in terms of fabric manufacturing as they are cottonproducing countries.

Due to the growing demand, especially for more value-added products, a few denim fabric makers are now introducing the latest technology including rope dyeing.

Rope dyeing is considered to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for yarn as short dyeing time that doesn't allow indigo to fully penetrate the fibers, thus creating ring-dyed yarn that fades better and faster than fully-dyed yarn.

Shade variation is comparatively lower in the rope dyeing process than the most used slashed dyeing, a denim factory official explained. Less water is consumed

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www.knitdenim.com

Hengliang textile, as a national knitting denim product development base enterprise, after more than ten years of growth and development, has become a number of domestic and foreign clothing brands designated fabric suppliers.

Company equipped with rope dyeing production line, imported circular knitting machine, high speed warp knitting machine, finish line, and other knitted denim production equipment, dyeing, weaving and finishing of knitted denim comprehensive management and production, have professional scale.

Company produces 5000 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim corn yarns, 8,500 tons of hengliang brand knitted denim fabrics, and 2.5 million pieces of knitted denim garments annually. The companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main customer base at present is throughout Europe, America and southeast Asia, enjoying a good reputation in the denim industry and fast fashion brands at home and abroad.

Indigo knit

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HENGLIANG Bangladesh Textile Today | JIANGYIN Volume 12, Issue 04

Cotton warp knitting

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Denim People

while chemical use is high, people involved with the process said.

Another aspect of the process is it provides a deep indigo look, the unique look that denim lovers are looking for.

Though rope dyeing machinery installation cost is higher than slashed dyeing, buyers offer 10 to 15 cent higher price due to its color and quality, they explained.

Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first LEED Platinum Certified Denim Manufacturing facility, Envoy Textiles Limited is a manufacturer of 100 export-oriented high-quality denim fabrics.

Starting commercial operation in 2007, the company is the very first in Bangladesh to use rope dyeing technology. It is considered as one of the largest denim manufacturing facilities in Bangladesh with a production capacity of 50 million yards per annum.

Abdus Salam Murshedy, Managing Director of Envoy Group said, "Denim is a 12-month product for both men and women. Rising cost in China has created an opportunity to grab the increasing demand."

The country is now producing midsegment of denim products on a small scale following growing demand from upscale customers, he said, adding that due to such demand, one

Figure 2: It provides a deep indigo look, the unique look that denim lovers are looking for.

of his units-Envoy Textiles Ltd (ETL)-introduced rope dyeing for the first time in the country.

ETL manufactures high-quality fashion denim and is one of the largest denim fabric makers in Bangladesh, he said.

"Some big brands demand for ropedyed denim products and offer 10 to 15 cent more per yard," he said.

Partex Group that also makes denim products has recently introduced rope dyeing along with its existing slashed dyeing process mainly to meet the increasing demands made by some buyers.

Local entrepreneurs have the capacity to set up industry and bag work orders as they have technical know-how for production.

Some 32 units are involved with denim fabric and product making while the figure was only four to five in 2001. Total investment in the sub-sector stood more than $ 900 million, according to industry people.

The sub-sector earns about $ 3.5 billion and plans to increase exports to $ 7.0 billion in the next couple of years, they added.

Bangladesh is now the top denim products supplier to the European Union overtaking China, and third largest to the US after China and Mexico, industry people said. Bangladesh supplies denim products to major global buyers and retailers including Levi's, G-Star Raw, H&M, Tesco, Wrangler, Hugo Boss.

Zakir Hossain Lenin elected as the new President of BGWTF garments washing and to help the members through charitable activities.

Staff Correspondent Bangladesh Garments Washing Technologist Federation (BGWTF) biannual election has been befallen on 10 April 2019. Zakir Hossain Lenin, Plant Head of Agami Washing Ltd has been elected as the new President of BGWTF for the 2019-20 session.

Md. Mehedi Hasan, Founder President of BGWTF and AGM of Sterling Laundry Ltd congratulated the new President.

Among others, Kamal Uddin Mia elected as Sr. Vice President; Eng. Ananta Kumar Malo as General Secretary; Sujan Kumar Mandal as Organizational Secretary and Abu Hanif Mia as Treasurer.

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Figure : Zakir Hossain Lenin the new President of BGWTF for 2019-20 session.

BGWTF, a dedicated name for the garments washing industry BGWTF started its journey from 2009 as a non-profit, non-political charitable foundation. The mission of this foundation is to share technical solution regarding

BGWTF also arranges technical training for the members and for the manpower to sharpen their knowledge. They also arrange training on chemical use and safety issues for the workers.

The foundation also provides a financial fund to help the members in their needs.

Every year on 1 May, BGWTF arranges an annual general meeting where a roundtable discussion panel is arranged on washing technical issue and also exhibits the factoryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own wash development.

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A good day spent at Denim Expert Ltd. Rahbar Hossain Bangladesh denim sector is becoming a denim superpower all over the world. Locally we are producing about 435 million yards of denim fabric yearly which is around 50% of our demand. Right now in Bangladesh there are 31 denim factories are operating with clients mostly from US and EU. Among 31 factories, Denim Expert Ltd (DEL) is one of the prominent and finest denim garments producers in Bangladesh founded in 2009. Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd leading the organization from the front line. He is also locally and internationally known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Denim Mustafizâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; for his passion and professionalism.

On 6 April 2019, Textile Today Team visited the Denim Expert Ltd factory at Karnaphuli EPZ, Chattogram. After the visit, it is

Bangladesh Textile Today |

understood why Denim Expert is expert in denim!

Right now almost all the factories have the similar technology, some are installing more automated machineries. But what distinguished Denim Experts is skilled and descent team. We have spent the whole day with Denim Expert production, marketing and compliance team at factory.

They welcomed us warmly and showed the facilities. Sukanta Chowdhury, Manager of HR & Compliance gave us a nice presentation on Denim Expert journey, strength, contribution to country branding etc. after the warm reception.

Interesting facts of Denim Expert Ltd.

12000 pcs/day

32 mn gallons rain water reservoir

Production facilities Denim Expert Limited is an ACCORD enlisted safe factory which has the latest

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skilled manpower

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Figure 2: Workers working at Denim Expert Ltd in a safe environment.

technology machineries for the finest production and highly sophisticated wet and dry finishing facilities that I have mentioned earlier. Raw fabric inspection to final garments packaging, all the processes are directed and ensured by the skilled employees.

The modern equipped laundry facility provides a fully comprehensive service to its customers. Garments are specifically developed to meet customer’s business model and pricing structure as well as aesthetic and performance requirements. DEL’s garment manufacturing management is

ensured by an ERP system.

In-house laboratory of DEL is well capable of performing almost any kind of physical and chemical tests such as pull tests, shade band tests, color fastness, crinkle and others.

Research & Development “I am a designer of denim products myself, and I do not copy and paste other's designs,” said Mostafiz Uddin to a daily newspaper.

“I have a big design studio and I spend a lot of time and effort to produce new designs.”

Almost 30 experts working in DEL’s R&D team with the direction of Mustafiz Uddin. They develops 30 pieces samples for each brands especially for ZARA which is now a fast forwarding brand in the world market.

DEL has an impressive product gallery where they displayed some of their shipped goods in the last six months. Any denim lover will love to have these finest jeans.

Denim Expert does 90% business on their collection based and other 10% is like others means take sample from buyer and develop according to buyer requirements.

This is not usual business format in context of Bangladesh but DEL doing this successfully.

Mustafiz Uddin is a visionary person, said, “I have set up an independent business plan to avoid the hassle of middlemen. I sell my products directly to my customers.”

Branding is strength

Figure 3: Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd.

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Mustafiz Uddin took Denim Expert at a level by his unique and unparalleled branding strategy and activity. You will find ‘Denim Mustafiz’ in every social media social media platform. He also bring his company in every denim focused

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ul J

ea ns

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.

Figure 4: Such beautiful jeans are displayed at Denim Expert Ltd.

international platform like Kingpins.

Surprisingly, Mustafiz Uddin also made an international platform for the denim fabric and garments producers and buyers namely ‘Bangladesh Denim Expo’. The expo takes place twice in a year. 10th edition of ‘Bangladesh Denim Expo’ will be held on 2-3rd March 2019.

These activities of Mustafiz Uddin also giving Bangladesh a positive image to the outer world.

Earlier, after completing his BBA and MBA from Madras University in India in 1998, he joined as a trainee officer with a monthly salary of $30 in a small foreign garment buying house in Chittagong.

His BlueXonly is the first international denim brand from Bangladesh. BlueXonly has its own warehouse in the Netherlands, from where the trousers are distributed to different boutiques in Europe.

DEL produces 12,000 pieces of garments in a day and Mustafiz Uddin has target to increase the capacity to 50,000 pieces within next few years.

Denim Expert Limited’s laundry is the first of its kind in Bangladesh to recycle 60% of its water usage.

Their custom-designed chemical effluent treatment plant (ETP) has been designed to recycle the waste water before returning it to the earth.

They also have a large water

reservoir with a capacity of 32 million gallons; the stored water is used for dyeing and washing of the denim products.

100% export oriented buying house

Denim Expert nourishes its employees. Facilities provided to the workers by DEL are• Free transportation • Lunch allowance • Free medical facility • Insurance facility •J ob opportunity for transgender and physically challenged people • Regular festival bonus etc.

DEL’s anti-harassment committee actively regulate the workers behavior and many other such activity makes the working environment safe for the women workers.

1900 skilled manpower works at Denim Experts and produces denim products worth 20 million USD yearly.

The company exports to the US, Canada, the UK, Ireland, Spain, the Netherlands, Germany and Turkey and its mother buyer is INDITEX. Certification Denim Expert Limited has always been committed to the safety of its employees whilst aspiring to the highest operational standards.

The company has certifications WRAP, SEDEX, BSCI and has been accredited ISO 9001:2008 (Quality and Management System) and ISO 14001:2004 (Environmental Management System), with an inhouse compliance management team

A.S.M Asaduz Zaman(Saiful) Managing Director

Corporate Office: Soul Jeans & Fashions Ltd. House- 1/A. 4th floor, R. -14/A, Sec. -4, Uttara -Dhaka.

Email: zaman@souljeansfashions.com Cell: +8801725706260

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F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Rapidly growing denim sector in Bangladesh require top quality yarns Desk Report Bangladesh has become one of the most significant hub for denim apparel production around the world.

Bangladesh is the second largest producer of denim garments after China!

Until recently, garment factories in Bangladesh have been highly dependent on Figure 1: (From left) Aijaz Ahmed Faridi, Sr. General Manager Production, Jamuna Group Spinning imported denim Division; Thomas Sifrig, Sales Manager Loepfe Brothers Ltd.; Rashid Ali, General Manager Quality, fabrics. To meet Jamuna Group Spinning Division. the ever-growing demand by the from textile to real estate. At the yarn clearers in the winding readymade garment sector, Group’s Textile Division, the unit department, we feel that optical local textile entrepreneurs made ‘Jamuna Spinning Mills Ltd’ is yarn clearers give us greater substantial investments in recent producing various types of ring flexibility, as we process many years in denim fabric production. spun yarns with a capacity of different specialty yarns such Today, locally produced 150,000 ring spindles whereas at as slub yarn and core yarns. denim fabric can meet 50% of unit ‘Jamuna Denim Spinning Mills Reliability and the excellent service Bangladesh’s total annual demand; Ltd’ daily 36 tons of classical open provided lead us to the conclusion the rest is being imported from end spun denim yarn is produced to upgrade all our existing rotor China, India, and Pakistan. for the group’s denim weaving unit. spinning machines as well with According to the Bangladesh In total 96 tons per day of various Loepfe’s 1N1 yarn clearers, which Textile Mill Association (BTMA), yarns is leaving its spinning mills. perform extremely reliable and Bangladesh currently has 31 denim precisely on our rotor spinning Aijaz Ahmed Faridi, Senior fabrics manufacturing mills, many machines, helping us to achieve Manager Production, and Rashid of them vertically integrated. our high-quality requirements,” Ali, General Manager Quality of they said.

Two well-known names in the Jamuna Group’s Spinning Divison denim industry in Bangladesh rely explain why the Group’s spinning The Mahmud Group of Industries exclusively on optical yarn clearing mills are preferring Loepfe’s provide total solutions in denim technology from Loepfe Brothers Ltd. optical yarn clearers for both ring and jeans with vertical integration and rotor spun yarns. from spinning, weaving, dying and The Jamuna Group has diverse final garments manufacturing. business interests, which range “Since we started to use Loepfe

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The spinning unit converts raw cotton into top quality yarns and is producing a total of 900 tons per month with ring spindles and rotors in various styles and for the group’s denim weaving unit.

Engr. Md. Hasibur Rahman, General Manager of Mahmud Spinning Mills Ltd. points out that the positive experience made with Loepfe’s YarnMaster ZENIT and ZENIT+ yarn clearers as well as with YarnMaster 1N1 clearers is confirmed by weaving unit in terms of achieved weaving machine efficiency and fabric quality.

Today’s high-speed air-jet and rapier weaving machines used in denim production require top quality yarns from the spinner, ensuring productivity and efficiency of its denim mills.

Hasibur Rahman said, “Especially the white PP yarn clearing

Figure 2: Md. Hasibur Rahman, General Manager Mahmud Spinning Limited with Md. Khorshed Alam Suman, Managing Director, Masterline Technologies (Pvt.) Ltd., (Loepfe Brothers Service Partner in Bangladesh).

performance of Loepfe’s latest yarn clearers YarnMaster ZENIT+ DFP is giving us extremely good results. My colleague from our weaving unit reports me, that the number of yarn breaks during the warping process in our denim mills has been reduced substantially

due to the fact, that disturbing white PP fibers were removed during the winding process, which finally leads to an increase of weaving machine efficiency.

Another advantage is, of course, that claims due to rejected fabric quality will be minimized.”

Cause and remedy of streaky mark fault in denim fabric Shahrukh Khan Dwip, Production Officer (Rope Dyeing), Nice Denim Mills Ltd. Streaky mark is a common and serious problem in denim fabric which is also known as ‘line mark’.

Usually, buyers don’t accept the fabrics which have this kind of fault.

Cause & remedy of line mark/ streaky mark Streaky mark can occur due to dyeing, weaving, finishing problems etc. But I will discuss from practical experience how this fault originated from rope dyeing and the possible remedy.

• Creel arrangement is a vital factor in the rope dyeing process. The creel arrangement has to be set exactly count by count or set by set.

• Fabric wetting ability sometimes causes the line mark problem in denim fabric. So, it should always be checked the wetting ability in

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: buyers don’t accept the denim fabrics which have streaky mark fault.

mercerize or pre-wetting bath, dye bath etc.

• Dyeing parameter like gpL, Hydro, ORP, pH should be aligned with the program.

• Machine roller pressure should be optimum with the parameters. Because pressure variation occurs the line mark fault in the denim fabric.

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• Every part of the machine should be cleaned regularly, because the dirt, grime etc. are clung with the machine parts which actually lead to the streaky or line mark problems.

If a rope dyeing house strictly follows the points then it is expected that they will be able to avoid this severe problem.

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Mahmud Denims Ltd, a name for quality denim fabrics FT Research Team Mahmud Denims Ltd. (MDL), a sister concern of Mahmud Group is one of the leading manufacturers and exporters of denim fabric in Bangladesh since 2006. MDL has developed fully vertical setup of spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing and ETP plant with the latest sustainable technologies.

They employed green technology to produce environment friendly denim for world renowned buyers like H&M, KIABI, C&A, Carrefour, Mango, M&S, Bestseller, Debenhams etc.

about 800 tons raw cotton from West Africa, Brazil, USA and always three-month stock are available in their store.

They mainly produce Ne 6’s to Ne 20’s yarn of different types like lycra, dual core, slub, regular, siro yarn and cotton blends etc.

Production capacity is about 10,296 spindles in ring process and 1440 drum in open end process.

Trützschler, Toyota, Oerlikon brands of machine are used in ring spinning. Latest and advanced model of Autocoro 360 open ended machine is enabling it to

Spinning Mahmud Spinning Ltd has well established spinning shade where the new technology and latest machineries are installed to produce top quality ring and openend yarn. The company imports

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Figure 1: Mahmud Denims Ltd. has own strong backward facility.

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produce excellent yarn. They also use optical yarn clearing technology from Loepfe Brothers Ltd.

F a c t o r y Ta l e s

Table: Mahmud Denims Ltd. at a glance Establishment year

2006

Plant area

49 acres

No. of employee

3150

Production capacity

4 million yds per month

Laboratory

Spinning process

Ring spinning, open ended

With the growth of industry, the laboratory facilities have not grown in Bangladesh significantly. But MSL has a full setup of testing laboratory which is equipped with top notch companies like Uster. They have Uster tester-5, Uster HVI Spectrum, Uster AFIS PRO, Lee strength tester, Wrap reel, Twist tester etc.

Spinning capacity

30 tons per day (ring & OE)

No. of weaving machine

Air jet-198 from Picanol, Rapier -120 from Picanol Optimax

Dyeing processes

Rope dyeing, Slasher dyeing, Woven fabric dyeing (CPB) (4 Slasher dyeing, 2 Sizing, 6 direct warping, One Rope (32) Dyeing and 5 Ball warping machines)

ETP (Biological)

200 cubic meter/hr.

Buyers

H&M, KIABI, C&A, Inditex, Carrefour, Mango, M&S, Bestseller, Debenhams, HEMA, K-Mark etc.

Expansion plan

Roof top solar, Rain water harvesting plant, Extended finishing floor

Cones are conditioned in SARA ELGI PROFIX by maintaining standard temperature and relative humidity.

Weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two different sets of yarns are interlaced to form a fabric. MDL weave more than 4 million yards of denim per month using 100% cotton and blends in all weights from 4 ounces to 14 ounces.

which increases the production.

The company also have four slasher dyeing machine from Taiwan for organic and recycled yarn.

Average RFT is 96 percent of MDL. They also have two BENNINGER and KUSTERS DYE PAD woven fabric dyeing machine of 60,000 meter per day capacity.

Sustainable production

Figure 2: Mahmud spinning lab is well equipped with branded testing machinery.

Mainly they produce different king of stretches’, slub cross hatch, satin, print, coated and tensile variety.

They have total three weaving floor where number of air jet loom is 198 and 120 is rapier loom.

Engr. Md. Sirajul Islam, COO of Mahmud Group shared that, “We started our journey with only 40,0000 yds production capacity, now we have reached to 4 million capacity monthly. We are committed to our customers by providing best product, best

quality, best service and ontime delivery. We also have a sustainable product line.”

To maintain the quality of product, they are using state-of-the-art stenter machine. Considering environmental issues, MDL using green technology and machineries for sustainable products.

AIRO waterless finishing machine from BIANCALANI Italy is used to increase the softness properties of fabric where no chemical and water are required, only steam and air are used.

This company is the country’s first JEANOLOGIA G-2 machine user for Ozon (waterless) finish. They

Dyeing Rope dyeing machine is a latest technology in denim industry.

Warp yarns are dyed in rope form in this machine. In Mahmud Denims Ltd. The rope dyeing machine is from MASTER brand, Italy. Rope dyeing is considered to be the best possible indigo dyeing method for warp yarn as short dyeing time

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Figure 4: 96% RFT of Mahmud Denims Ltd. dyeing unit.

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Mahmud Denims Ltd to treat the waste water from dyeing or other processes. It reduces BOD, COD, TDS and Imhoff cone (sludge) from the water.

30 percent treated waste water are using for gardening and harvesting. They have plan to reuse the water for production in near future.

On regular basis, different parameter is maintained and controlled by laboratory testing.

Here shows some parameter and per assessment schedule: Figure 5: Mahmud Denims Ltd. has sustainable production line (picture shows AIRO waterless finishing machine).

also have JEANOLOGIA dynamic laser printer machine which can print on denim fabric without any color.

ETP With the capacity of 200 cubic meter per hour, the world class biological effluent treatment plant (ETP) has been installed at

Testing frequency BOD

Per 5 days

TDS

Daily

COD

Daily

DO Meter

Daily

PH

Daily

TSS

Daily

Imhoff Cone

Daily

Certifications and awards Mahmud Denims Ltd has been achieved different awards and certifications like ISO-14001:2015, OCS, RCS, GOTS certifications, FEDEX, Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), LEED Gold, Control Union certification, Oeko-Tex for their contribution in sustainably, compliance, quality and others sector.

Denim Event

10th edition of Bangladesh Denim Expo sets out to be a hit Desk Report

Bangladesh Denim Expo, a twoday international exhibition on denim products, will take place at the International Convention City Bashundhara (ICCB) in Dhaka on May 2-3, said a press release.

Now at its 10th edition, Bangladesh Denim Expo is more fast approaching, sets out to be a hit both nationally and worldwide, along with another groundbreaking round of the Bangladesh Fashionology Summit.

Bound to further the role Bangladesh plays in world apparel and with ‘Circularity’ as its main theme, the show will also be the backdrop of the Bangladesh Fashionology summit, which will be dedicated to the role of technology and innovation in fashion.

The Denim Expo was created by the visionary mind of Md. Mostafiz Uddin and in the course of a dazzling decade has

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gained momentum, consistently exceeding all expectations.

‘Circularity’ as main theme According to the release, this time around, the show will be hosting 63 exhibitors, representing the very best from the local and international denim community. Taking centre stage as running theme will be ‘Circularity’ – a concept on which both the future of the planet and textile industry depend.

“As the world goes digital and the industry becomes circular, our apparel industry cannot afford to stay behind” claimed Md. Mostafiz Uddin, Ceo and Founder of Bangladesh Apparel Exchange (BAE),.

“This is why, both the Summit and the Expo are an important chance for our country to set an example for the rest of the world on how sustainable and technological development goals and business profit motives can work hand in

hand to create a better future for all economic sectors and people,” said the release quoting Mostafiz.

In the release, the Bangladesh Denim Expo exposed their firm belief The industry adapts and installs for below reasons, according to the release: •D esign of product for longevity, considering resource efficiency, biodegradability and recyclability.

•P roduce efficiently, ethically and with regard for the environment.

•W herever possible reuse, recycle, repurpose any waste product.

As it tackles an ongoing and critical issue, the Bangladesh Denim Expo promises to be another successful hit, providing answers and solutions with a renewed offer featuring a series of seminar and workshop sessions in a 2-day packed agenda, that will also feature the Bangladesh Fashionology Summit.

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S a f e t y To d a y

BD government constitutes EUR50m loan fund for RMG factory safety Desk Report

The government has established the loan fund in Bangladesh Bank with the support of Agence Francaise de Developpement of France.

Under the ‘Programme to Support Safety Retrofits and Environmental Upgrades in the Bangladeshi Ready-Made Garments Sector Project‘, the AFD would sponsor the amount while technical assistance worth 14.29 million euro for participating financial institutions (PFIs).

In addition, RMG factories were also offered under the SREUP sponsored by European Union, Kreditanstalt fur Wiederaufbau (KfW), Gesellschaft fur Internationale Zusammenarbeit (GIZ) and Bangladesh Bank.

According to a circular issued by Bangladesh Bank on 31 March, PFIs would be provided with prefinance for disbursing the credit to eligible RMG factories under the loan fund for Safety Retrofits and Environmental Up-gradation.

The a circular said that eligible RMG factories would get loan amount up to one million euro

but not the building and owners of a building where at least one factory is located would be eligible for the fund.

Eligible RMG companies would have to apply for loans to the PFIs for Figure: Bangladesh government constitutes EUR50m loan their sub-projects fund for RMG factory safety with the support of Agence Francaise de Developpement of France. investments based on corrective action plans with maximum 7 percent interest commitments to the EU retailers rate and the loan amount might be platform Accord, North American extended up to 3 million euro for buyers group Alliance and National major environmental up-gradation.

Tripartite Plan of Action, said the The maturity of the loan would Bangladesh Bank circular. be usually 3 to 5 years, however, in To apply to the request for case of major environmental upproposal, participate in the project gradation or any other duly justified and access the loan funds, banks and documented case, it might be and non-bank financial institutions extended up to seven years. would be required to meet and The circular said that BB would maintain certain criteria including provide the pre-finance fund to the duly licensed from Bangladesh PFIs with 3.5 percent interest rate Bank, minimum seven years of and the PFIs would have to bear operational experiences with the credit risk of end-borrowers. audited records and existence RMG companies owning both a of lending policies and strategy RMG factory and the building, related to the RMG sector, companies owning a RMG factory Bangladesh Bank said.

Alliance brands to continue monitoring BD factory in new scheme Desk Report

Several former Alliance members and other brands committed to sustaining the culture of factory safety in Bangladesh have launched Nirapon, a locally managed organization tasked with overseeing the ongoing safety, training and helpline efforts of the factories from which Nirapon members source.

According to a press statement, Nirapon will monitor 600 factories from which its member brands source to verify that they continue to meet the National Action Plan’s standards for physical safety

Bangladesh Textile Today |

(structural, fire, and electrical); have implemented standardized training programs focused on worker safety; and continue to make the helpline service, Amader Kotha, available to their factory workers.

Over 20 brands and retailers are backing the new organization including The Children’s Place, Walmart, VF Crop, Nordstrom, Target, Macy’s, JC Penny, Gap Inc, Abercrombine & Fitch, and Li& Fung.

It will serve as a single point of contact between its members and the factories on these issues

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and will also focus on building local capacity to manage fire and building safety to sustain the investments in worker safety that have been made to date.

Nirapon is not a regulatory agency, but a member organization tasked with serving as a single point of contact between its member brands and factories on factory safety issues. “Following Rana Plaza, Bangladesh has made tremendous progress towards building a safer RMG industry” said Moushumi Khan, Chief Executive Officer of Nirapon.

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f ro m f i e l d to fa s h i o n

Sales Inquiry +88 0184 1166 233 amran@maksonsgroup.com.bd www.maksonsgroup.com.bd

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 97 to 114

Strong backward linkage pushes knitwear sector value addition to 75% April 2019

Knitting & Knitwear

Consistent quality drives N.R. Group to use Pailung knitting machine

Unveiling industry best practices

Application of lean philosophy can ensure desire profit in knitting (Part â&#x20AC;&#x201C; I)

Application of lean philosophy can ensure desire profit in knitting (Partâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;I) Engr.Kawsar Alam Sikder; CEO, www.aliganz.com; Consultant, 7S Lean Consultancy Knitting charge of single jersey fabric is only approximate 1.5-2% of FOB price of garments, 4.5 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 5 % for elastant jersey. Profit margin is not mentionable. Knitting factories those have only knitting facilities, they are passing tough times, meet up the overhead expenses becomes tougher even, and mostly they have to depend on subcontracting works.

Factories who can able to produce elastant jersey, fleece, rib, and others diversified product, and they can manage somehow.

So, if knit factories can able to implement lean tools, by which factories can able to reduce wastage, reduce down time which leads to increase production with the same machines and manpower.

Today, I want to share a case study, how much factories can enhance production by implementing only one proven tool like Quick change over (QCO).

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Quick change over is a proven tool which helps to reduce set up time, increases machine availability for production. Knitting machine servicing is inevitable maters, generally, we have to do servicing once per month of each machine.

Periodic machine servicing ensures good quality grey fabrics as well as keep knitting elements in good conditions. Servicing duration depends on several factors, general practice is once in a month.

Generally, around 6 hours required to do the servicing of single jersey, it takes up to 13 hours for rib/ interlock machines. On average, 9.5 hours is required to do the servicing.

If one factory of 100 machines, monthly total servicing time is 950 hours. If we consider average production per day per machine is 16.5 kg, total production loss for servicing is 15,675 kg per month.

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I have implemented QCO methodology in one renowned knitting factory, where we have been able to bring down average servicing times to 4.5 hours, means 8250 kg additional production per month, yearly 99 tons production will be increased with existing machines and manpower, also noted, no investment is required.

This will be achieved only just setting the procedure as per lean philosophy and trained the concern peoples. If we consider, average knitting charge 15 tk/kg, additional revenue per annum will be 14.85 lacs.

About author Mr. Kawsar, B.Sc. in Textile, Certified Lean six Sigma Black Belt & TQM, having more than 21 years working experience in textile value chain.

Love to implement TQM & Lean tools in Textile & RMG. Enjoy in conducting training & Consultancy to transform TQM & Lean to Bangladesh Textile & RMG Sector.

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Editorial

Strong backward linkage pushes knitwear sector value addition to 75% Staff Correspondent Value addition to the Bangladesh knitwear sector, a sub-sector of the country’s apparel sector, has reached 75%, thanks to strong backward linkage industry.

According to Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) data, in July-February period of the current fiscal year, Bangladesh earned $11.5 billion exporting knitwear products, up by 13.5%, which was $10.12 billion in the same period last year.

A 75% value addition means, of the total export earnings, 75% will remain in the country as the manufacturers do not import raw materials to make their products.

Talking to Textile Today, sector people from primary textile sector and knitwear manufacturers opined that current value addition to the knitwear sector stood at over 75%.

This is because of the strong backward linkage industry as the local manufacturers of spin and fabric are capable of meeting local demands about 90%.

“As of now, the value addition of knitwear sector is about 85%, which is increasing gradually. This is because of the strong backward linkage industry,” said Mohammad Hatem Managing Director of MB Knit Fashion.

The great advantage of the Bangladesh knitwear sector is its strong backward linkage. And the sector is capable of supplying about 90% of knit fabrics that the local manufacturers need.

As a result, the value addition of the country's knitwear sector has reached 75%, however, the sector people claimed that it is now about 85%.

Meanwhile, the sector people are introducing the latest technology and upgrading machinery to improve the quality of the fabric for valued added products.

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Figure: In the July-February period of the current FY, Bangladesh earned $11.5 billion exporting knitwear products.

“In the global export market, Bangladesh Knitwear sector has become a trusted name and a hub for knitwear goods across the world,” A.K.M. Salim Osman, President of Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BKMEA) told the Textile Today.

In grabbing more market share and to take the lead, BKMEA has taken different types of initiatives such as research and innovation for the products development, skills training for workers and increasing capacity to promote the export growth of knitwear products, said Salim.

In addition, the trade body is working and helping manufacturers to incorporate the latest technology as it will help to add more value to products, he added.

“The country’s primary textile sector, a strong backward linkage industry for the RMG, is contributing a lot the apparel sector by proving of yarn and fabrics,” told Mohammad Ali Khokon, also Managing Director of Maksons Spinning Mills Limited.

As of now, Bangladesh is capable of supplying 85% of yarn and

fabric, along with 40% of woven fabric, required by the knitwear sector, which helped to take the value addition to 75%, he added.

However, value addition to the woven sector is now around 35% to 40% meaning that Bangladesh is unable to fulfill 60% demand of woven fabrics.

“As of now, Bangladesh’s value addition in the knitwear sector is quite good, which helping the country to retain more and reducing import dependency,” former caretaker government Advisor AB Mirza Azizul Islam said.

But in meeting the demands of high valued fabrics, Bangladeshi manufacturers of fabrics and spinning mills owners has to invest in latest machinery and technology, said the economist.

In addition, trade analysts also called for fresh investment in reaching the target of 100% value addition.

Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) Research Director Khondaker Golam Moazzem said, “New investment will raise Bangladesh's competitiveness in the global market.”

“The investment should focus on new technology adoption,” he added.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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Consistent quality drives N.R. Group to use Pailung knitting machine FT Research Team

Figure 1: N.R. Group has 687 circular and 72 flat knitting machine from Pailung.

N.R. Group of Companies has been in the business of knit-garments sector for almost four decades.

Initially catering to the domestic market, it entered into the global market in the mid-eighties. With a modest beginning, the Group succeeded in expanding through the export of quality knitwear and sweater products to the global markets, especially in Europe.

N.R Group has a vertical set up for quality garments production

and is a one stop service center for any brand or buyer. They have spinning to garment production with sweater, ribbon and narrow fabric, embroidery, printing and packaging facility.

As N.R. Group is knitting focused, means the machine is a very sophisticated issue here. With 150 ton knitting capacity per day, N.R. Group is one of the biggest knit fabric producers in Bangladesh.

Currently, N.R. has 687 circular

N.R Group production facilities at a glance

and 72 flat knitting machine surprisingly all are from Pailung brand. They have 16” – 48” diameter circular knitting machines.

Why N.R Group installed all Pailung machine, answering this question Md. Humayun Kabir, DGM (knitting) said from 1998 we are using Pailung knitting machine for their consistent quality.

After European brands, Pailung is doing really good as an Asian brand, Humayun Kabir said. He also pointed out some feedbacks as a regular user of Pailung machine.

Spinning

150 tons/day

Knitting

150 tons/day capacity

• Cost effective than other brands

Dyeing

65 tons/day

AOP

25 tons/day

• The consistent quality of fabric can be achieved

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Figure 2: (L-R 3rd) Md. Humayun Kabir, DGM (knitting), N.R. Group.

• The longevity of Pailung machine is very much satisfactory

• Spare parts are available locally which is very good

• Rib and interlock machines are very much production friendly

• Maintenance cost is minimum

• Fleece machine should be more updated and handy • Pailung machines have stitch length limitation, if it is adjustable then it could be more helpful for factories

• No doubt about Pailung’s after sales service Pailung is an innovative machine manufacturer, they just don’t produce machine but give solutions to their customers. They have a very strong R&D team which made them unique from

others.

I have many inputs in Pailung’s developments and they are very responsive about customer feedback saying, Humayun Kabir.

Usually, a knitting machine give proper production for 10-12 years, but we have some 20 years old Pailung knitting machine giving relentless quality production, Humayun Kabir added.

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M a r k e t Tr e n d

Knitted footwear market to reach US $3.1 billion by 2025 Desk Report Shoe with knitted upper are footwear, where the upper part of the shoe is made using machine knitted fabric has become increasingly popular among the younger generation owing to high influence of sports, which decreases the costs of shipping and tariffs.

athleisure, the report said.

The key players in the shoe with knitted upper market focus on new product launch as the prominent strategy to improve product portfolio, overcome competition, and maintain or improve

The global market size of knitted footwear was valued at US $2 billion in 2017 and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.9% to reach US $3.1 billion by 2025.

A new report published by Allied Market Research, titled ‘Shoe by Type and Distribution Channel: Global Opportunity Analysis and Industry Forecast, 2018 – 2025’ revealed this.

The casual shoe segment dominated the global shoe with knitted upper market in 2017 and is expected to maintain the dominance throughout the shoe with knitted upper market forecast period.

With the improvement of living standards, overweight and obesityrelated health issues and higher demand has been witnessed for comfort of sportswear and

their shoe with knitted upper market in the global market. The key players profiled in the report include Adidas, Asics, FILA, Jack Wolfskin, K-SWISS, New Balance, Nike, Puma, Skechers, and VF Corporation.

specialty stores segment was the highest contributor to the shoe with knitted upper market in terms of value in 2017 and is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 4.4% from 2018 to 2025.

The key findings of the report are:

Based on type, the running shoes segment is expected to grow at the highest CAGR of 7.1% from 2018 to 2025.

Based on type, the casual shoe segment was the highest contributor to the shoe with knitted upper market growth and is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.0%, from 2018 to 2025.

Based on distribution channel, the e-commerce segment accounted for less than one-third in the shoe with knitted upper market share in 2017 and is estimated to grow at a CAGR of 8.0%.

Based on distribution channel, the

Key players in the global knitted footwear market

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Adidas launches knitted bra for superior comfort and support Designed from the inside out and engineered for a perfect fit, the Don’t Rest Primeknit LUX Bra mirrors the female body in motion Desk Report Adidas the German sportswear giant recently unveiled the Don’t Rest Primeknit LUX bra. A ‘premium first of its kind sports bra’ created with Primeknit, Adidas’ revolutionary knitting technology which ensures the perfect fit for female athletes.

The bra offers the ultimate freedom of movement for female athletes to train with zero distraction.

The Don’t Rest Primeknit LUX bra was co-created with Adidas global network of female athletes who revealed the need for a high-

Figure : Don’t Rest Primeknit LUX Bra by Adidas mirrors the female body in motion.

performance sports bra that delivers both support and comfort.

After years of research studying the female body in motion, the Adidas Advanced Concepts team was able to fine-tune the exact amount of flexibility and support required, using this unique Primeknit knitting technology.

The bra has been created with a superior soft and absorbent nylon yarn that provides unparalleled comfort and cooling, while the design and engineered unpadded compression delivers stretch, strain and bounce management for a locked-in feel that doesn’t restrict.

“Women are no longer willing to sacrifice comfort and support during the performance, and they shouldn’t have to. What makes the Don’t Rest Primeknit LUX bra unique

is that we built the infrastructure of the bra from the inside out, based on insights from our female athletes around needing support and comfort in equal measure,” said Clair Wallace, Design Director of Advanced Concepts and Global Brands at Adidas.

The knit construction of Primeknit allows the bra to mirror every movement, enabling female athletes to train without any distractions.

In addition to the bra, Adidas also launched the Believe This Primeknit LUX Tight, which is also developed same Primeknit technology and fabric construction that moves with the body, delivering support and comfort in targeted areas.

The Primeknit LUX Don’t Rest Bra and Believe This Primeknit LUX Tight are available to purchase instore and online.

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Puma launches its first flagship store in Bangladesh Staff correspondent German leading sports brand Puma kick-started its first flagship store in Bangladesh at Banani Road 11 in Dhaka recently.

One of the leading diversified conglomerates of Bangladesh DBL Group is the local franchisee of Puma in Bangladesh.

It is one of Puma’s biggest stores in South East Asia and showcases the widest array of the brand’s latest performance and sport-style products.

Spread over 2,200 square feet, the outlet showcases Puma's latest performance and sport-style products.

Bangladesh cricket team players Mushfiqur Rahim, Mahmudullah Riyad, Sabbir Rahman, Imrul Kayes, Liton Kumar Das, Mosaddek Hossain Saikat and Abu Hider Rony, alongside Managing Director of Puma India Abhishek Ganguly and Managing Director of DBL

the growth of the sport in this nation, supported by our unmatched equipment and gear,” Ganguly elaborated.

MA Jabbar, Managing Director of DBL Group, Puma's local Figure 1: German leading sports brand Puma kick-started its first flagship store in Bangladesh at Banani Road 11 in franchisee, said, “We Dhaka. are incredibly proud.

We are looking at expanding our Group MA Jabbar, attended the footprint in the region. launching ceremony.

Pulak Chaudhary, business head “Bangladesh has a rapidly of multi-brand channel at Puma growing sporting culture and is India, and Abdul Wahed, DBL a strategically important market Group chairman; MA Rahim, Vice for us to be in. We are excited Chairman, and MA Quader, Deputy to establish our presence,” said Managing Director, were also Abhishek Ganguly, Managing present.

Director of Puma India.

Puma offers performance and “This being one of the biggest sport-inspired lifestyle products Puma stores in Southeast Asia is a in categories such as football, testimony of our commitment to running and training, basketball, all the professional and aspiring golf, and motorsports. athletes here. We aim to promote

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Creating demand for cotton is needed Building demand for cotton is needed as good production potential is expected in near future Seshadri Ramkumar, Professor, Nonwovens & Advanced Materials Laboratory, Texas Tech University Cotton is in business as it is presold on its comfort. Speaking to a large audience on 5 April at the 62nd Annual Meeting of the Lubbock-based Plains Cotton Growers (PCG), Inc., Berrye Worsham, President and CEO of Cary-based Cotton Incorporated, highlighted three important aspects of cotton to enhance its demand.

Cotton production in the United States of America in near future is expected to reach 20-25 million bales (480 lbs. each), that necessitates creating more value and new industrial applications such toxic oil absorbent and insulation products.

According to Worsham, cotton’s advantages fall into three categories: 1) Health/wellness 2) Strategic benefits 3) Sustainability.

Percentage of globally sustainable clothing the number in the United States was influencing peoples purchase 47%.

Textiles account for about 37% of microplastic USA 47% contamination in water. With growing India 82% awareness on the China 64% microplastic pollution, cotton being natural, offers competitive advantage, as the fine cotton fibers degrade Compared to some synthetics, in water systems. There are cotton does not cause skin predictions that with an increase irritation. Synthetics may retain in the synthetics’ usage, the odor more than cotton and microplastic contamination can workout clothes from cotton wash grow three times by 2050, which is much cleaner. a serious concern.

In a survey, it was revealed that The cotton industry is also 82% of consumers surveyed in focusing its efforts to create more India stated that sustainability awareness among consumers on influenced their clothing purchase, the fiber content in their clothing, in China 64% of consumers were stated Worsham. influenced by sustainability, while

China signaling buying U.S. cotton Seshadri Ramkumar, Texas Tech University, USA China has started showing interest in buying United States’ cotton.

sooner. While China normally goes for highquality cotton, they are interested in lower grades (31 and 41 color grade) at a discounted price. The trade deal will enable to push these kinds of cotton into the China market.

There has been some movement in the United States’ cotton to China, which is a positive signal.

This is in anticipation of a positive trade deal between China and the United States.

Cotton industry stakeholders who met this morning at Lubbockbased Plains Cotton Growers’ (PCG), Inc., focused their attention on the planting season ahead. With the ginning process completed this week in the High Plains of Texas, it is hoped that the High Plains’ cotton production will cross the 4 million bales mark.

“Demand for cotton is there,” stated one merchant at the meeting. This is evident at the

December Futures value for the new crop (77.60 cents). This is somewhat high, given the volume of cotton left to sell, somewhere about half to three-quarters of a million in the United States.

China’s buying is certainly hampered with the 25% tariff and the future buying in volumes depends on a favorable trade deal that needs to be accomplished

“Everybody is hopeful that a deal can be finalized sooner to clear the way for cotton to move into China,” stated Shawn Wade, Director of Policy Analysis and Research at PCG. On the quality note, this year’s average micronaire for the cotton bales classed at Lubbock USDA classing office has been 4.07, which is a good number compared with the last year’s average of 3.21.

S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Bangladesh sees highest growth in using organic raw materials Desk Report Bangladesh is growing fast to be a hub of organic textile manufacturing amid a rise in demand from international apparel retailers, said in a statement of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), an international benchmark.

Use of organic raw materials rose 29 percent in 2018

Total 155 factories are using organic raw materials

The number of Figure: Bangladesh sees fastest growth in the world recognized organic textile factories. globally recognized textile factories, countries. is seen as part of the solution. which use organic Company leaders use GOTS as risk raw materials, rose 29 percent In terms of total numbers, the management tool and as market last year in Bangladesh, with highest increase is reported from opportunity. Consumers value the the growth rate being highest India, which added more than 315 verifiable certification from field to globally, said Sumit Gupta, factories, followed by Bangladesh finished product.”

GOTS representative for India at 155 and Europe 98. and Bangladesh, said in a recent Bangladesh imports nearly 8 Bangladesh has the second statement. million bales of cotton every year, most GOTS-certified factories mainly from India, the US and In 2018, organic certification grew worldwide with 689 facilities, just from some African countries, of 25 percent in North America, 23 after India with 1973 factories. the imports, nearly 6 percent is percent in Pakistan and 23 percent The other top countries in terms of organic cotton that comes from in South Korea, said the Global total number of certified units are India and the US. Organic Textile Standard (GOTS).

Turkey (519), Germany (500), Italy It includes the entire postharvest “Bangladesh continued its second (340), China (301), Pakistan (238), processing of apparel and home position and registered a growth Portugal (215), the US (127), and textiles made with certified rate of 29 percent in terms of South Korea (85). organic fibre and has both GOTS certified facilities,” said In the statement, GOTS Managing environmental and social criteria.

Sumit Gupta.

Director Claudia Kersten Globally, the number of facilities said that the increasing certified by the GOTS rose 14.6 Country wise factory number using number of certified percent to 5,760 in the year. GOTS organic raw materials facilities aligns with the certification covers the processing Country name Factory number common desire to solve of certified organic fibres along sustainability related India 315 the entire supply chain from field problems.

Bangladesh 155 to finished product. Certified “It confirms that GOTS factories are located in 64 Europe 98

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S u s t a i n a b i l i t y To d a y

Brands should focus on transparency in the supply chain Desk Report Bangladeshi suppliers ‘not afraid of transparency’ after an overhaul in wake of Rana Plaza and the RMG Industry focus should be on brands who fail to list their supply chains, not leaders, said a press statement quoting Mostafiz Uddin, owner of Denim Expert Ltd. He said this to the delegates at a recent London sustainability conference.

“Yes, we have seen a change since Rana Plaza, but it is not enough,” Mostafiz Uddin told the audience at Drapers Sustainability Conference.

“If you look at Bangladesh, we have more than 4,000 garment factories. Each and every one of them has been audited. These factories have nothing to fear now and are comfortable with transparency. I hear that brands are demanding transparency but if there really was a demand, the industry would already be fully transparent. So what are we waiting for?” emphasized Mostafiz.

Mustafiz used the example of product labeling on food packaging and asked the question

Fashion Revolution Transparency Index which shows there are dozens of brands still not making their supply chains public.

These include Forever 21, Lacoste, Khols, Valentino, Ross Stores, and Amazon. Many brands continue to disclose nothing of Courtesy: sustainablefashion.drapersonline.com their supply chains, yet of why manufacturers can tell somehow manage to escape the us exactly where our food was spotlight. made and by whom but such Uddin said, “A lot of change is still transparency has yet to arrive in needed. A couple of organizations the apparel sector. are working hard, but it is not “Transparency is possible,” said enough. We all need to stand Uddin. “We have seen this already up – retailers need to stand up, with progressive brands such as consumers need to stand up – H&M and Marks & Spencer. Yet otherwise, there will be no real it is not right that these retailers change and just a lot of talk.” continue to get shot down by the “We also have to catch the people press. We have to stop this culture who aren’t transparent. Retailers and instead focus on the brands need to work with suppliers. Instead which are not transparent and who of saying, ‘You’ve done something are holding the industry back.” wrong, so now we don’t want to Evidence of the point made work with you,’ they should say,

by Uddin can be found on the ‘This isn’t what we want, but here’s how we want you to work.’”

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E x p o r t To d a y

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Double-digit growth in apparel export earnings continues Staff Correspondent According to the Export Promotion Bureau (EPB), the apparel sector earned $25.95 billion from export in nine months of the current fiscal year up by 12.57% from $22.83 billion during the same period of the previous fiscal year.

Of the total apparel export earnings, knitwear products earned $12.80 billion, which is 13.65% higher than the $11.32 billion earned during the same period of FY 2017-18.

Woven products earned $13.15 billion, up by 13.07% from $11.51 billion during the same period of the previous fiscal year.

Figure : It is a good sign that double-digit growth in apparel export earnings continues.

The specialized textile sector saw a 36.63% growth to $112.5 million from $82.34, while home textile products saw a negative growth of 3.36% to $647.34 million, down from $669.87 million.

Also, it is a good omen for the Bangladesh economy that the non-RMG sectors such as agriculture, frozen foods, and pharmaceuticals are doing better, observes the trade analyst.

“It is a good sign that double-digit growth in apparel export earnings continues, which is also higher than the export target set for the time,” Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD) research director Khondaker Golam Moazzem said.

Bangladesh, however, needs to focus on infrastructural development and improving ease of doing business to attract the foreign direct investment relocating from China, Moazzem finds.

Moreover, the double-digit growth in the apparel sector means stability in the sector; apparel makers are taking advantage of work orders shifting from China over the tariff tension with the

USA, said Moazzem.

He stresses that the government and the export-oriented manufacturers must come up with measures in identifying the goods not handled by the Chinese manufacturers or relocating due to the trade war.

Total apparel export earnings

Knitwear Products

Woven Products

Home Textile Troducts

Specialized Textile Sector

earned $12.80 billion

earned $13.15 billion

earned $647.34 million

earned $112.5 million

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“Political stability and uninterrupted services and safety improvement enhance buyers’ confidence. With boosted confidence, the buyers are placing more orders here pushing up the export earnings,” said Mohammad Hasan, Executive director of Babylon Group.

In addition, he mentions China-US trade war as another reason for the sharp rise in export earnings as the buyers hunting alternative sourcing destination.

Among other major sectors, earnings from leather and leather goods witnessed a 9.08% negative growth to $771.69 million during the period, down from $848.79 million during the same period of FY2017-18.

Jute and jute goods, the third export earning sector, also registered a 23.23% negative growth to $628 million, which was $818 million during the same period in the previous fiscal year.

Exports of frozen and live fish with a positive growth of 2.77% earned $419 million, up from $407.71 million in FY2017-18.

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Lectra’s Innovation Lab brings breakthrough innovation to life Desk Report

Lectra announces the opening of its Innovation Lab, located in the heart of the company’s technological campus in Bordeaux-Cestas. Created by Philippe Ribera, Vice President Innovation, Lectra.

The mission of Lectra’s Innovation Lab is to capture emerging trends, anticipate evolutions and enhance its future technological solutions.

The breakthrough innovations resulting from this work are aimed at the fashion, automotive and furniture markets.

For Lectra, disruptive innovation cannot be conceived in isolation.

The teams in the Innovation Lab work in collaboration with the organizations in their ecosystem: start-ups, research centers, customers and Lectra employees.

Everyone can be invited to create a visual model during a design sprint or participate in an idea generation workshop. The first

Figure: Lectra boosts its innovation process by dedicating a new space to the ideation and design of disruptive solutions.

innovations resulting from these collaborations will serve the fashion industry. A strong principle guides the work of the teams: to rethink the entire value chain of this industry—brands, manufacturers, distributors—as it relates at each stage to the final consumer.

This is reflected in various proof of concept (POC) demonstrations developed within the Innovation Lab. Thus, for brands, key aspects of creation or product

development are reinvented through solutions based on innovative technologies. And for manufacturers, an augmented reality tool has been developed to support cutter maintenance.

“Innovation, particularly disruptive innovation, implies a real cultural transformation within the company. One cannot simply will it into existence. The Innovation Lab teams have understood this well: they are making tangible advances in strengthening Lectra’s and our employees’ commitment to follow this path and lead our customers toward success,” says Véronique Zoccoletto, Chief Transformation Officer, Lectra.

George to use only recycled polyester Desk Report Asda, a British supermarket retailer said that George - fashion and homeware wing - will move to use only polyester in its products that are sourced from recycled materials by 2025. This move is part of the Asda’s commitment to solely use polyester that is sourced from recycled materials by 2025.

George further said that it will increase clearness in its supply chain. It will also publish a list of its second-tier apparel factories responsible for dyeing, printing and finishing its garments, on its website. The brand has already published a list of first-tier

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factories, where its clothes are cut, sewn and trimmed.

Asda claims the move is the first of its kind for a supermarket retailer, is accompanied by pledges to source only viscose and cotton which has received a sustainable certification in the coming years.

“As the second largest clothing retailer in the country, we have a responsibility to do the right thing

by our customers, not only on the price and quality of our goods but also on the impact we have on the world around us,” Senior Vice President for Commercial, Nick Jones said.

The product range launching in the retailer’s 2019 Spring/Summer collection includes cushions and throws made from recycled plastic bottles, and blouses and dresses made with fabric from recycled polyester clothing.

George’s sustainability strategy is always focusing on to reduce the environmental and social impact of its products.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

Knitting

To d a y

Te x t i l e W o r l d

Vietnam garment sector eyes $60 billion exports by 2025 Desk Report According to the Vietnam Textile and Apparel Association (VITAS), Vietnam textile and garment industry, aiming to earn 60 billion USD from exports by 2025.

Last year, the textile and garment industry earned 36 billion USD in exports, up 16% year-on-year, making the country one of the world’s three biggest exporters of textiles and apparel, said VITAS. Speaking at the 2019 Global Textile and Apparel Supply Chain Conference held in Ho Chi Minh City recently, Vu Duc Giang, VITAS Chairman, said this year the association set a target of 40 billion USD in exports, up 11% yearon-year.

for Trans-Pacific Partnership (CPTPP) is expected to boost the development of many industries of Vietnam, including the textile and apparel industry. The industry is also expecting more orders to shift from China to Vietnam due to the ongoing US-China trade war.

Giang proudly added that the industry was expected to enjoy a trade surplus of 20 billion USD, and employ 2.85 million workers.

Vietnam is participating in 16 FTAs. Ten out of 12 signed agreements have been enforced, including the ASEAN Trade in Goods Agreement, the ASEAN-China FTA and the ASEAN-Korea FTA, while the two remaining, the CPTPP and the ASEAN-Hong Kong FTA, have not yet come into force.

Textile enterprises have seen positive signs for orders this year.

“Many businesses have already received orders for the first six months of 2019 and even for the entire year,” said Vu Duc Giang.

This year, the Comprehensive and Progressive Agreement

20-26 JUNE 2019 Fira de Barcelona, Gran Via Barcelona, Spain www.itma.com

Participation in various FTAs could help Vietnamese enterprises have more choices in exporting

their products, but it also brings challenges to the industry, according to VITAS. The FTAs that Vietnam has signed all have environmental barriers with higher green standards, which require enterprises to improve not only product quality but also production processes.

If enterprises fail to do this, they will face a risk of having orders stopped or rejected, especially orders from major international garment brands.

Giang recommended that Vietnam should continue its efforts to ensure environmental protection in manufacturing to become a “sustainable supplier of choice” of textile and apparel.

The country has committed to fully implementing 17 goals of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development to ensure economic, social and environmental benefits, according to Giang.

VIP Trade Delegation to ITMA 2019 Contact: Amzad Hossain Monir, Cell: +88 01775 999 748, Email: monir@textiletoday.com.bd

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Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

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Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

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Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

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Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

U nve i l i n g i n d u s t r y b e s t p ra c t i c e s

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knitting & Knitwear

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

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Unveiling industry best practices

Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

Unveiling industry best practices

F i b e r to Ya r n

We are looking for Editorial Case Studies Results of piloting Feasibility reports Product/Service analysis Interviews News & Views etc.

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Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion April 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 04 l Pages 115 to 130

See advertisement at page 87

We should break the fear' that we are not good at communication - Uzzal Dakua

11 ways to maintain professionalism in merchandising

Quality control and audit in sewing for trouser manufacturing

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11 ways to maintain professionalism in merchandising Mohammad Nurul Alam As a profession, merchandising is now a dependable position to build a career in the apparel industry. Many new graduates aim to be a successful merchandiser as this is the potential profession in the job market.

But in reality, the apparel market still needs many skilled merchandisers those are capable to handle the tougher situation and can work under pressure.

Unfortunately, the employerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s expectation does not match with the quality of job seekers.

Newcomers see the rough walkway in the journey of merchandising career. They feel the profession is challenging and unpleasant due to unlimited pressure to finish in deadline.

Professionalism is the ultimate ingredient in merchandising and so this has to be taken seriously who is willing to start a career in merchandising.

Why efficient merchandiser is needed for the apparel industry?

Bangladesh apparel industry has to reach the export benchmark of $50 billion by the year 2021.

But the present apparel export is still at $32 billion that means huge manpower and infrastructure needed to fulfill this gap between the target and achievement.

Against this backdrop, the organizations are looking for skilled professionals as well as

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure: merchandising is all about being capable to handle tougher situations and to can work under pressure.

merchandisers. The employers feel professionalism is not growing properly among the newcomers those who are coming in apparel merchandising.

This is the reality of Bangladesh apparel industry where people are craving for jobs but unable to meet the requirements.

Consequently, foreign experts are coming in flocks and playing the leading role in the industry whereas thousands of university graduates are roaming in the empty pocket and without a job. So the apparel industry has a big demand for an efficient merchandiser.

Why professionalism is important in merchandising?

Merchandisers play a key role in the apparel industry. They are

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responsible for performing on time goods delivery as well as in correct quantity. Strategically he is the person who runs the entire production through communication among the people.

Any miscommunication may lead the production towards disaster.

So understanding and practicing professionalism is vital to be an efficient and able merchandiser.

Who will deal not only goods delivery but also communication, and generate new thoughts and innovation.

What professionalism really means?

Professionalism means the quality and efficiency expected from a professional, along with adapting to countless challenges.

In other way, professionalism is

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Merchandising

the conduct, behavior, attitude and smart dealing of stress and challenges of someone in a work or business environment.

each other, sharing information and generating a positive image is a good tool to work together in the organization.

True professionals possess a number of important characteristics that can apply to virtually any type of business. But what exactly employers mean by this term ‘Professional’ is not the same in all disciplines.

Without supporting each other merchandiser never can finish the task within the deadline. Great teams are made up of different types of people; each member does different tasks but plays an important role that helps others to complete their tasks.

The term ‘professionalism’ varies in different areas, circumstances.

And in merchandising, below is the shortlists to maintain professionalism: 1. Reliability Unreliability is the number one career-limiting habit that holds back of the professionals.

It is vital if the merchandiser fails to gain reliability in the team then he cannot grow his career in the profession. As unreliable people are actually dangerous to the success of the entire team.

2. Staying work-focused Merchandiser should stay job focused, as he is the backbone in a factory. And he/she should not get too preoccupied with other things.

For example – enjoying casual leaves frequently that seems responsibility is getting in second priority on the personal life and damage the professional image.

3. Being positive No one likes a constant pessimist.

The pessimist sees the difficulty in everything, and an optimist finds the opportunity in every difficulty.

In merchandising profession uncertainty, difficult situations and meeting deadline always pull the negative person to be negative.

They never see things can be done rather influence others not to be positive.

So such negatives professionals don't really fit to be an efficient merchandiser.

4. Supporting other Merchandiser has to work in a team, collaboration is needed with

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5. Showing respect to other Public dealing is one of the major tasks that a merchandiser does every day. Suppliers, messengers, persons from different firms come to meet merchandiser. Sometimes it was seen people have to wait a long time to get a schedule from merchandiser for a meeting.

Showing respect to others is a part of good professionalism so unnecessary schedule delaying should be avoided.

01

Staying workfocused

03

6. Recognizing commitment when dealing with people

Suppose, if merchandiser confirms any kinds of approval verbally and later on refuses to accept that does not look decent and professional.

If a merchandiser becomes rude then after some time he will not receive any favor from the people. As an example – an urgent marketing sample needed to be ready by one day whereas the sample section can do it by three days.

If merchandiser talks in hard line then he may not get priority from the sample section because they can keep the schedule in the queue. So being polite, making them understand the urgency of the marketing sample can be the

09

08

Building good professional networks Listening carefully first then to react

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06

Should not be arrogant and rude

Confessing mistake

7. Should not be arrogant and rude

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Showing respect to other Recognizing commitment when dealing with people

07

02

Being positive Supporting other

05

Communication may not happen all time through e-mail or by the text message. Some of the communication or commitment may go verbally because of time or urgency.

Reliability

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Meeting Etiquette

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best option.

8. Confessing mistake Man is mortal, - mistakes do happen - and this is not exceptional for merchandiser also.

So if he/she tries to hide it from others and apply a tricky method to conceal it that will not be professional.

Because in merchandising nothing can be kept hidden if a mistake happens. So a professional merchandiser always confesses the mistake to others and takes help to resolve the problem.

9. Building good professional networks A professional network is a group of people who are connected with one another for career or business.

So building a network is one of the most important things that a merchandiser can do to advance his career.

Merchandising

As an example – having a good network with the supplier can help to arrange urgent materials which are not available in the local market.

and sincere to maintain a positive professional image while in a meeting. General meeting etiquettes are – • To be on time at the meeting.

10. Listening carefully first then to react

• Sitting appropriately.

Listening properly is half of a successful conversation otherwise it will turn in miscommunication, the final outcome is time wasting and the result is zero.

•E ngaging with the phone during a meeting is prohibited.

So merchandiser has to be careful to listen and then to react.

Suppose – Senior asks junior merchandiser to do any particular task but he was not careful to listen to what exactly boss told him to do. Later on, he sees senior really disappointed when the job is done completely opposite what is asked to do.

11. Meeting etiquette Merchandiser has to be careful

•S peaking loudly enough so that everyone hears.

•S hould not interrupt others in the middle of a speech.

• Questions have to be relevant.

Exhibiting professional behavior is not as easy as one might think.

Workplace professionalism is a mindset. It is about responsibility, knowledge, standards, and ethics.

So, to enhance the professional image in the merchandising better to learn and practice the traits and behaviors of workplace professionalism.

23 Bangladeshi apparel companies exhibit at Bengaluru’s sourcing expo Desk Report ‘Apparel Sourcing Week,’ at Bengaluru, India, the first-ever 2-day regional networking platform which aimed to bring the manufacturing hubs of the subcontinent closer to India’s retail sector, received a huge response from all the stakeholders.

The exhibition held from 15th to 16th March 2019 at Bengaluru, India.

A total of 23 apparel companies from Bangladesh participated in the expo, in a bid to increase Bangladesh’s apparel export to India, according to a press release.

Abdul Wadud, Director of Team Scl Bangladesh, said, “I have been to globally renowned sourcing fairs like Bread & Butter, ISPO and Magic but never witnessed such an organized and well-managed show before. In terms of business leads,

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not to mention the core issues of business generation, networking and knowledge sharing.

Apparel Sourcing Week lived up to my expectations”.

The team is one of the leading apparel manufacturers from Bangladesh.

A flurry of activities – seminars, panel discussions, vendor workshops and open house, were held during the expo touching all key aspects of the booming Indian fashion retail sector, sourcing strategies, products, pricing and

Bangladeshi companies which participated in the expo included Laila Styles Ltd, Bando Design Ltd, Jamuna Apparels Ltd, Energypac Fashions Ltd, Anowara Knit Composite Ltd, Sonia & Sweaters Limited, Pacific Jeans Ltd, Universal Jeans Ltd, Gramtech Knit Dyeing Finishing & Garments Ltd, Standard Group Ltd, Standard Stitches Ltd, Apex Textile Printing Mills Ltd, Pakiza Knit Composite Ltd, Well Group, Anzir Apparels Ltd, Anzir Terry Towels Ltd, Epic Group, Kwuntong Apparels Ltd, Lenny Fashion Ltd, K.C Bottom and Shirt Wear Company, RBSR Fashions Ltd, Denimach Ltd and Green Smirt Shirts Ltd.

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Quality control and audit in sewing for trouser manufacturing Rasel Ahmed Likhon

The readymade garment industry is the lifeline of Bangladesh’s economy and to upgrade the industry quality improvement of garments can play a vital role.

As sewing is the key process of garments construction, so sewing quality control is also vital. If the apparel manufacturers of Bangladesh can achieve zero defects in sewing, the cost of production will reduce dramatically.

To achieve zero defects standard of garments (trouser manufacturing) from sewing lines to laundry or finishing department, the process flow are as follows: 1. All sub-assembly parts (front and back) will be inspected 100% at the end of the last operation of the sewing line.

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Any defects irrespective of however minor must be returned to appropriate operator/needle point to carry out the relevant repairs. The line manager, supervisor and QA must carry out an hourly check to ensure that repairs and defects are certainly returned to the operator for repairs/rectification.

2. At the assembly lines depending on the style and at the PP meeting stage, it will be decided what critical operations are required to implement inspection. Again, this is 100% and responsibilities are as in point 1 above. Example: waist band attach and close in active waistband garments.

3. At the end of the assembly

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line, 3 – 4 QCs will be fully trained and stationed for 100% inspect of the completed sewn garments focusing on all operations including those that were inspected in the subassembly. Any defects must be returned back to needle point for rectification or repairs.

Again, training, education, and ownership must be passed down the line for ownership purposes.

The number of QC’s above will be determined depending on the output of the line.

4. Frequent quality checking: A Roaming QC assigned per twosewing line to audit garments based on 25% of each lot/ bundle at a critical workstation which is Waist Band, Seat Seam

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Quality Control

(Yoke Seam), Back rise, In seam or any other critical points in a sewing line randomly.

5. An auditing process will take place based on 25% of each lot/ bundle. If one defect is found in any bundle, then the respective bundle will be failed automatically and sent back for 100% re-screen.

The defective garments must be returned back to needle points for rectification or repairs. If the bundle has "zero defects” then, and only then, the bundle will pass automatically and it is then

transferred to washing or finishing.

Defects take back to at source Tracking the defects back to the correct operator at needle points is very important to achieve ‘zero defect’ policy and improve the quality of the garments.

• If any operation has more than one operator, then they will put chalk mark/magic pen identification in the garments or panel to identify the respective operator. This identification mark will be identical for each operator to find the correct person.

• In-line, end line quality tables will have defective tags (tags quantity will be based on line output). A tag will be clipped to the defective panel or garment and sent back to the respective operator for repair. After rectification, the panel or garment will be sent to respective QC stations to recheck. If goods have zero defects then only it moves to the next operation. If again found any defects then it will go back to the respective operator.

Sewing in line audits Operation

Type of QC check

% Bundles audited

PCS Per bundle checked

Front Panels

Inspection

100%

All PCS CHECKED

Back Panels

Inspection

100%

All PCS CHECKED

Waist Band Area

Inspection

100%

All PCS CHECKED (based on criticality)

Roaming QC Per two line: a. Seat Seam (Yoke) b. Back Rise c. Inseam d. Out seam e. Waist Band Any other critical area

Audit

70%

25% of each bundle

Sew End Line Inspection

Audit

100%

All PCS CHECKED

Audit

100%

25% of each bundle

Lot acceptance after Sew end line inspection in Sewing Lot acceptance (Zero Defects)

Sewing quality inspection processes details Back & front panels Back panels: Quality Checking

Type

Procedure

Checking point

Inspection

100 % Inspection

Check every garment of a complete bundle. If any defects found then return to source and repair the defects and then passed to next process.

Back pocket high/low, deco, measure pocket distance, bar tack, seat seam, fabric fault, stitching, shading, sequence

Quality Checking

Type

Procedure

Checking point

Inspection

100 % Inspection

Check every garment of a complete bundle. If any defects found then return to source and repair the defects and then passed to next process.

Front pocket, j stitch, bar tack at j-stitch, zipper check, inseam measure length, care label, doublesingle fly, sequence.

Front part:

Sew end line inspection & measurement Sew End Line: Quality Checking

Type

Procedure

Checking point

Inspection

100 % Inspection

Check every garment of a complete bundle. If any defects found then return to source and repair the defects and then passed to next process.

Check all points of the operations.

Quality Checking

Type

Procedure

Checking point

Audit

25% of each bundle must need to Audit

Randomly checked 70% of bundles

Measurement check at inseam, waist band & seat seam, back rise or any other critical areas.

Roaming QC:

Lot acceptance details Lot acceptance (zero defects) after sew end line inspection Lot acceptance (zero defects)

Type

Procedure

Checking point

Audit

25% of each bundle must need to Audit

If 1 defect found then the bundle will fail and return to source at defects to repair. Only zero defects of the bundle will pass for next operations.

Check all points of garments.

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Industry 4.0

Sustainability or existence- how software will help you to choose your next step tactfully B M Shorif, CEO, Skylark Soft Ltd. Industry 4.0, driven by the Internet of Things (IoT), thus the world is ready for the next level of digital transformation. It’s probably only a matter of time before the topic is as commonplace as smartphones.

It is predicted that from the current world of connected people, we are quickly moving towards a world of connected devices.

importance. And the changes and advancements will continue in future as well. (Cognixia, 2017) The long-term success of any country depends on its ability to grab the opportunity for betterment.

While Singapore, China, Turkey and some of the other countries are getting into digitalization day by day, our country is yet, lag behind of

“We need to build a secure, intelligent platform that will solve crucial problems at a scale.

Meanwhile, to develop ideas and get better innovation we need to think smarter about hardware and software. Everything that can be automated should be automated.

Like air and drinking water, being digital will be noticeable only by

B M Shorif CEO, Skylark Soft Ltd.

According to a Forbes article, there can be more than 75 billion devices connected to the internet by 2025. This is being facilitated through the Internet of Things (IoT), which basically means a network of hardware (physical devices) embedded with software (applications) and connectivity – which enables them to exchange, process and analyze data, thus facilitating various services.

There are many industries that are impacted by IoT by now.

Some have already had a major influence of IoT while some are just beginning to realize its 124

using technology in this era where it can be a new light of hope for sustainability with more efficiency.

Especially in RMG sectors, which is being the highest contributing sector to the economy and generates 83% revenue for Bangladesh.

Apparel industry needs to focus on advanced technology like IoT because an August 2015 survey found that 72% of 138 global apparel eras already had IoT projects of some type underway.

And Frost & Sullivan estimates that global IOT revenue will reach $1.7 trillion by 2019, almost tripling from its 2014 level (Global, 2018).

its absence, not its presence,” said B M Shorif, Chief Executive Officer, Skylark Soft Limited.

As per this analysis, it can be predicted that now people are more involved in technology than they were ever before. They want to get real-time information in their hand with only one tap in their cellular phone. Meanwhile, buyers of the apparel industry are more tech savvy now a day. As they are time oriented, they can’t accept an order delay perspective.

Many RMG factories are facing trouble with the number of decreasing buyers because

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Industry 4.0

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they cannot full fill the demand or surplus with the delivery timing. As a result, factories are closing because they are facing less improvement in efficiency, lack of saving cost, lack of proper utilization of resources, mismanagement and so on.

Despite being in a technological era, there is less or can say no relation between RMG sector and technology. Most factories are tracking their production function manually. For this reason, authorities are not getting the right information at the right time. Thus, they cannot take a decision on time.

Because of the, less efficiency factories are trying to converting the whole production function to automation (by using machinery that’s defiantly a matter of big investment). Although it will take more time and need a number of skilled manpower. If factories do R&D wisely then they will find out that Production Tracking System and ERP with the concept of IoT can make their life and production easier.

Skylark Soft Limited (SLS) is conducting that our software “PROTRACKER: Real-Time Production Tracking System” will give a new dimension and

Global IOT Market 1,800 1,600 1,400 1,200 1,000 800 600 400 200 0

2009

2010

2011

2012

2013

2014

2015

2016

2017

2018

2019

Figure: Global Internet of Things (IoT) market trends.

create a revolution in the RMG sector of Bangladesh with the concept of IoT. SLS believes that advance technological thinking can create digitalization for our country. PROTRACKER can help you to increase productivity and efficiency by providing realtime information to the hand of the authority at the right time.

Management can take immediate action if they face any issue during production. Meanwhile, production can be completed with less WorkIn-Process (WIP) and delivered to the buyers on time.

On the other hand, our product

go RMG ERP-Ultimate Enterprise Solution for Garments can improve inventory maintenance, you can smoothly track your orders, it will help you for inventory and proper utilization of resources for production, meanwhile, you can increase quality control and can get cross channel visibility, in spite of that, your factory can increase safety more with the scope of IoT. SLS deliver phenomenal service to the RMG sector to help it digitalize its operations. It can be hopefully said that, with this expanded product portfolio, industry 4.0, will grow charismatically for our country by SLS.

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Contact: House-25A, Lake Drive Road, Sector 7, Uttara, Dhaka 1230, Bangladesh. +88 02 55093682 | +88 01734211085 | info@textiletoday.com.bd

We should break the fear' that we are not good at communication Uzzal Dakua, Merchandising Manager, Echotex Ltd.

Merchandiser is the interface between customer and exporter. He is responsible for order inquiry receive, development, costing, order analysis, Production execution, Shipment and up to payment receiving. So merchandising is the backbone department in the Apparel Industry. It is a passionate job for many textile graduates.

Uzzal Dakua, Merchandising Manager of Echotex Ltd, is working at Echotex for 11 years. He Graduated from Primeasia University in Textile Engineering and involved with many professional platforms.

Recently in a conversation with Team Textile Today Uzzal shared challenges and opportunities of merchandising from Bangladesh perspective.

Textile Today: What are the responsibilities and challenges of a merchandiser?

Uzzal Dakua: The tasks that a merchandiser usually do follow up the processes, costing, negotiating with the customers or retailers, sourcing of raw material (best quality with cheaper

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price), sampling development (product development option work to meet both the needs of consumers and designers) monitoring the production, ensuring product Quality (as per Buyer requirement), on time Shipment and finding the solution of any problem of the product

are the basic responsibilities of a merchandiser. In one sentence Merchandiser is the key person of the Product. He is the main responsible for all these procedures.

A merchandiser has to keep deep knowledge about the product and possess and strong

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Apparel Icon

communication skill as he/she has to deal with the customer as well as the suppliers. Because a single mistake of a merchandiser can bring an irreversible loss for the company. So, merchandisers, every step should be perfect and I think that is the main challenge.

Textile Today: How can merchandisers play an important role to secure a better price?

Uzzal Dakua: Workers wage has increased by 51%, but the customers are unwilling to pay a bit more price. They aren’t helpful about the manufacturers’ situation rather squeezing more for less price.

In this situation, merchandisers can play a vital role by showing their caliber during negotiation with Buyers.

We all should break the myth that we are not good at communication. Factory owners should also focus on increasing their efficiency level, waste minimization and they should think long-term in case of purchasing new technology. Besides investing in technology, also owners should invest in human capital to sustain in the business.

Textile Today: We see the trend of different discipline people are coming in merchandising profession whereas textile engineers do the job in production. What will you say about this?

Uzzal Dakua: First of all, I would like to say that merchandising is the most important section in the textile industry. Because a merchandiser has to keep knowledge of the full supply chain that I have already stated.

If a merchandiser doesn’t have sound technical knowledge of textile processes, there is a possibility of wrong product development. But a textile engineer usually has these basics.

He/she knows how to minimize wastage, how to develop the right product and how to maintain costing with the buyer properly.

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Figure : Merchandising team of Echotex Ltd.

This is why more textile engineers should come in merchandising profession to make this business more profitable.

 Workers wage has increased by 51%, but the customers are unwilling to pay a bit more price. They aren’t helpful about the manufacturers’ situation rather squeezing more for less price.

In this situation, merchandisers can play a vital role by showing their caliber during negotiation with Buyers.

Textile Today: What are the differences between foreign professionals and native professionals who are working in this sector?

Uzzal Dakua: Every year foreign professionals are taking away almost USD 6 billion from our textile sector.

Most foreign professionals working in Bangladesh are Indians, SriLankans, and Pakistanis. The government and BGMEA should have a strict policy about foreign experts.

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On the other hand, every year many talented textile engineers are graduating from BUTEX, PAU, AUST, NITER, BUFT and many other universities. Factory owners should give a chance to the fresh blood to prove their talents.

At Echotex, we don’t hire any foreign professionals. Most of the persons working here are young, energetic and talented textile engineers. Here we all work as a team. Almost every week we sit for a meeting, try to understand ourselves and solve our problems together.

Textile Today: Tell something from your experience for those who are planning to take the merchandising as a profession.

Uzzal Dakua: A fresh textile graduate should do the job in a production unit for at least 2 years.

He/she should also attend different training programs, seminars and understand the basic terms of textile and apparel business with a clear concept. They should also have basic knowledge in Microsoft word, excel, power point, etc.

Textile Today: What is your future plan?

Uzzal Dakua: I want to play my role as a great contributor to Bangladesh’s economy. Whenever I am serving for Echotex, I always think I am working for my country.

If I bring an extra penny for Echotex, it means like an extra penny for my country’s economy.

In this way, I want to contribute to my country’s welfare in the future also.

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Apparel Leader

Rubana Huq elected as first female President of BGMEA

Rubana Huq, Managing Director of Mohammadi Group, has been elected as the first female President of Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) as her panel won all 35 posts of Directors in the biennial election of the trade body today on 6 April.

Staff Correspondent The election was held at the BGMEA offices of both Dhaka and Chattogram that began around 8:00 am and continued till 4:00 pm.

Around 1,492 voters out of total 1,956 cast their votes in Dhaka and Chattogram for electing their leader of the BGMEA for 2019 and 2021 tenure.

In Dhaka, some 1,204 out of 1,597 and in Chattogram some 288 out of 359 votes were cast in the election.

This time Sammilito Forum and Shadhinata Parishad contested for 26 posts of directors as all nine directors were elected unopposed from Chattogram zone earlier.

A total of 35 directors needed to be elected for the formation of the BGMEA board.

Sammilita Forum, led by the Mohammadi Group Managing Director Rubana Huq has swept to victory in the biennial election to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA), bagging all the 35 posts of Directors.

The 26 Directors elected for the Dhaka region are: M.A. Rahim (Feroz), Rubana Huq, Arshad Jamal (Dipu), K.M. Rafiqul Islam, Inamul Haq Khan (Bablu), Miran Ali, Md. Moshiul Azam (Shajal), Md. Mohiuddin Rubel, Md. Nasir Uddin, Md. Rezwan Selim, Md. Kamal Uddin, Mohammed Nasir, Md. Sajjadur Rahman Mridha, Md. Munir Hossain, A.K.M. Badiul

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Alam, Mohammad Abdul Momen, Md. Shahidul Haque Mukul, Iqbal Hamid Quraishi (Adnan), Md. Shehabudduza Chowdhury, Masud Quader Mona, Md. Mosharraf Hossain Dhali, S.M. Mannan (Kochi), Sharif Zahir, Nazrul Islam, Asif Ibrahim, and Faisal Samad.

The nine Directors elected unopposed for the Chattogram region are: A.M Chowdhury (Selim), Anjan Shekhar Das, A.M. Mahbub Chow., Mohammad Atique, Mohammed Abdus Salam, Mohammed Meraj-EMostafa, Enamul Aziz Chowdhury, Mohammed Musa and Khondaker Belayet Hossain.

time of their bad days. We will try to find out the way how to save their factories,” she said.

Earlier, the BGMEA election was held in 2013 and the board continued up to September 2015.

However, in 2015 the election was not held as both Sammilito and Forum panels jointly decided to elect the board in consensus.

So, Siddiqur Rahman, the last BGMEA president, ran the trade body for three years and seven months — although the tenure of an elected BGMEA president is for two years — with a frequent extension from the commerce ministry.

The newly elected 35 Directors also elected a President, a First Vice-President, a Senior VicePresident and Five Vice-Presidents for the Executive Body.

“If the factory owners think that they need help from the BGMEA in case of price bargaining with the buyers, we will set up a separate cell in the BGMEA to assist them,” Rubana Huq said after the election.

She said many small and medium factories are in trouble and they are facing even the closure of their units.

“They need immediate help.

We need to stand beside them in

Figure: Rubana Huq, Managing Director of Mohammadi Group

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S m a r t Te x t i l e

UV protection clothing- a practical approach to sun care Muin Uddin, Consumer and Retail, Physical Laboratory Manager, SGS Bangladesh Limited Ultraviolet is an electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength from 10 nm to 400 nm, shorter than that of visible light but longer than X-rays. Ultraviolet radiation is part of the electromagnetic (light) spectrum that reaches the earth from the sun.

Skin is the largest organ of human body that protects us from the environment, regulate heat, prevent water loss, touch and pain sensor. Sun protection is important because sun exposure is the leading cause of skin cancer.

UV radiation from the sun is associated with about 90% of all skin cancers.

The good news is skin cancer is highly preventable with UV protection, including UV protective apparel, sunglasses, sunscreens and reducing sun exposure between 10AM to 4PM (UV rays are strongest). UV can lead to the degradation of a textile like heat, it can initiate chemical reactions in polymers which result in the breakdown of those polymers and the loss of their physical and chemical properties. The amount and type of damage caused

by UV radiation depend on the nature of the fibers or filaments from which the textile is made.

The penetration of UV radiation in nylon, for example result in a decrease in elasticity and tensile strength. Exposure to UV radiation leads to a deterioration in its color, strength and resiliency in both dry and wet conditions. (Reference: Global Apparel Markets, No 35 April 2017) Currently manufacturers and retailers in the UK and Europe are testing items according to EN 13758-1 and have been setting a UPF value of 40 or more as a minimum performance standard and a maximum of 5% UVA transmission for claims of UV protection as required

by EN 13758-2. In order to fulfil the essential health & safety

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requirement to absorb or reflect the majority of harmful wavelengths, it is understood that the minimum requirements for UPF and UVA from EN 13758-2 satisfy this need. The producer must create a technical file containing all of the relevant information (as below) and must ensure that labelling shows the CE Mark and provides the necessary information concerning the limitations of the protection.

• Sun exposure causes skin damage • Only covered areas are protected • The protection offered by this item may be reduced with use or if stretched or wet Other countries and regions are also using different test standard to evaluate UV protection of clothing complying relevant method. Below are the common test methods used in different countries like US, UK, Europe, China and Australia respectively.

• AATCC 183 • BS EN 13758-1 • GB/T 18830 • AS/NZS 4399

2, nevertheless where there is a claim of UPF, it must carry the CE Mark. Because EN 13758-1 is not a harmonized standard. For sun hats with a UPF claim, the national standard BS 8466 will need to be utilized, at least in the UK, as there is no similar European standard yet available.

With growing public awareness about the dangers of excessive exposure to the sun, some sectors of the textile industry responded by developing ultraviolet (UV) protective clothing. While baby clothes and children’s swimwear initially dominated this niche market, UV fabric manufacturers now produce lightweight and breathable adult-wear that is also functional and fashionable. If you create UV protection fabrics and/or garments, our rigorous testing can help you raise the quality of your outputs and achieve your commercial aims.

For example, because our tests are acknowledged by the world’s standards authorities, you can use our results as the scientific proof behind your marketing claims.

Contact SGS Bangladesh now to find out how we can test your functional treatments according to international standards and provide results that improve fabric quality and performance.

There is also the issue of repeated laundering on the protection level. To this end, it is strongly advised that the UPF performance is measured again after multiple wash cycles (e.g. 5 washes) so that any reduction of performance can be quantified. This information should then be communicated to the buyer in the information leaflet provided with the product.

It is important to note that garments such as swim and beachwear may not fulfil the requirements for body coverage specified in EN 13758-

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Volume 12, Issue 04

Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04

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F I R E

C O N T R O L

United States of America

FULL PROTECTION FLOW CHART

RING FRAME

ROVING FRAME

Typical Gamewell-FCI S3 SeriesTM Installation

FIRE ALARM SYSTEM United States of America Optional Digital Communicator

Italy

SLC Loop

Remote Annunciator

Manual Pullstation

wittch LED Sw Switch Control

The erma ma mal Thermal Detector

Di s lay LED Disp Display Driver

e/C /Carbo bo on Fire/Carbon Monoxide Detector

Remo mote te Remote Annunciator

Inte In tell llig ig gen entt Intelligent Duct Detector

Optional O ti t 2nd Loop

NotiďŹ cation Appliance Circuit

RS485 Bus

Graphic Workstation

Ph P hot oto oto Photo Detector

Horn/Strobe H / St

Dual Du D al Input/Output Module

S St t b Strobe

Mult Mu M ltti Cr C itt Multi-Criteria Detector

H Horn rn//S /Str tr Horn/Strobe

Relay Module

P Powe we er Power Booster

Polyurethane Belts

Style 7 for Unsurpassed Survivability

Austria

Italy

Aprons & Cots

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Bangladesh Textile Today |

Volume 12, Issue 04