Apparel Today | February 2019

Unveiling industry best practices

Apparel accessories & fashion February 2019

A Textile Today Initiative l Published with Volume 12, Issue 02 l Pages 97 to 108

We have to boost our marketing competence -Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman, Well Group

Ergonomics and comfort central to flame retardant apparel innovation

Getting rid of bottleneck operations in garments industry

Bangladesh suit industry requires backward linkage support and strong negotiator Unveiling industry best practices Knit & Woven Dyeing & Finishing

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Getting rid of bottleneck operations in garments industry Rasel Ahmed Likhon What is a bottleneck?

The bottleneck is an extreme point in the production line where the production is hampered from the normal flow of production. The lowest output point in production line is called bottleneck. In garments industry bottleneck means lowest capacity of one or more operations which results in lowest production and ultimately lowest profit. So, identifying bottleneck operation and removing it is a very significant task to get the highest capacity production.

To identify bottleneck operation in a line, we can easily find out it visually where there are more input and less output. For this reason, the actual flow of production is hampered for the next operations.

The bottleneck can be found out by the following approaches which are more practical

Figure 1: identifying bottleneck operation and removing it is a very significant task to get the highest capacity production

We could check, whether they are set right.

computerized UBTs and other specialized machines.

4. W orkplace improvements: This could be relating to ergonomic issues like light, fan, seat adjustment, etc.

6. W ork breakdown: Investigate whether it is possible to further divide the process.

5. W ork aids & specialized machine: Guide, Folder, attachment, Jigs etc. Using

• I dentify the operation sequence as per the actual flow of material •G et the capacity study and hourly production sheet ready

Identify

• I dentify the actual bottleneck with its priority.

2. B etter operator allocation: We could check if any ‘A’ grade operator is allocated on a high capacity operation, and whether the bottleneck operator is only ‘B’ grade. If this is the case both the operators could be swapped to get more productivity out of bottleneck.

3. Machine speed or calibrations:

Bangladesh Textile Today |

A. S ame machine as that of bottleneck B. T he right skill required for the bottleneck operation.

Bottleneck elimination techniques 1. M ethods improvement: Improving the way the operator is handling the material and doing the operation.

7. W ork sharing: Giving some part of the work (or some of the pieces) of bottleneck operation to share with a nearby operation which has potentially higher capacity than required for line output. Care should be taken that the operator with which work is shared has

Consequences

Manage

Prevent future bottlenecks

Figure 2: Steps of finging out the bottleneck

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8. Quality problems: Could look if there is any quality issue in the previous process, due to which the operator is not receiving proper input to work on, thus decreasing its productivity.

9. W ork overtime: Bottleneck operations could be made to work overtime to make enough of WIP. 10. Adding additional manpower/ machine: In case we find the potential capacity per hour too less than the target output of the line.

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Bangladesh suit industry requires backward linkage support and strong negotiator FT Research Team Interlink is one of the leading suit manufacturing companies in Bangladesh garments industry since 1985. Interlink started manufacturing with J.B. Garments Limited and later Interlink Apparels Limited with the commitment to produce the best quality of garments. Now Interlink has three sister concerns and manufacturing tailoring trousers and blazers.

About 3000 skilled people works at Interlink. Only four factories in Bangladesh are manufacturing suits so far.

Interlink Dresses is one of the 100% export oriented garments manufacturing factory established in 2009 located at Joydebpur, Gazipur; producing formal & tailoring trouser, blazer etc. mainly for men. Annual turnover of Interlink is US$ 35 million and the country suit industry turnover is around US$ 250 million. Revenue in the suits (men & boys) segment amounts to US$ 6,742m in 2019.

The market is expected to grow annually by 1.4% (CAGR 20192021).

Top 5

0

500

1000

1500

United States

US$ 1,818m

Italy

US$ 1,404m

United States

US$ 991m

United States

US$ 639m

United States

US$ 507m

2000

Source: Statista, April 2018 © Nutural Earth

Figure 1: With a market volume of US$1,818m in 2019, most revenue will be generated in the United States.

Precisely, we choose this market segment for its business opportunities, to bring product diversification and to contribute a significant amount in the national export,” said A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad, Head of Merchandising & Marketing of Interlink Dresses.

He also said with a grievance

that all the suit manufacturers of Bangladesh have to import almost all raw materials including fabrics, accessories etc. from India and China. He urged the new entrepreneurs to invest in these segments mainly for polyester, poly-wool and poly-viscose fabric manufacturing factory.

Why in suit industry?

Producing basic t-shirt or so called low end products is now become a wasting of opportunity in this competitive market. Here, producing suit could play a vital role to secure better price though Bangladesh only gets the cost of making (CM).

“Interlink entered in the business with a different vision and we are the second company in Bangladesh producing suits.

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Figure 2: A.K.M Saifur Rahman Farhad, Head of Merchandising & Marketing of Interlink Dresses showing trouser.

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Buyers & products

4. Smart negotiator.

Interlinks 70% of buyers from the UK and 30% from Canada & South Africa as the South African fashion industry is right now a most emerging industry in the world.

Recently they also catering some Indian brands orders. According to Saifur Rahman Farhad, Indian top three suiting brand Raymond, Peter England, and Blackberrys only placing their 10% order here but Bangladesh is not availing this properly due to lack of factory.

5. The industry has to up-to-date with the new technology and innovations.

Right now at Interlink Dresses, they have 7 lines trouser (1 lac 30 thousand/month) and 4 lines blazer (60,000/month) facility.

2,200 skilled manpower are continuously working to achieve the organization's goal.

6. Sick competition has to be stopped among the manufacturers.

Figure 3: Finest quality blazers are produced at Interlink Dresses Ltd.

Rahman Farhad, he pointed out some important facts that have to be considered to boost the suiting industry.

1. B uyer awareness raising about strength.

How to boost the suit industry

2. T raveling across the world to understand demand and fashion.

In the discussion with Saifur

3. S trong R&D and designer.

7. Easy and proper banking policy.

8. Strong government policy and support.

9. T raining facility for the operators etc.

“Bangladesh is a ready hub, so our new entrepreneurs and existing manufacturers should not be bothered. We have to be more innovative and should keep our nerves!” Saifur Rahman Farhad concluded.

Accessories sub-sector to earn $11.22 billion in FY21 Staff Correspondent

According to a recent estimation of Textile and Jute Ministry, Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging sector, backward linkage industry of RMG, will earn $11.22 billion in FY 2020-21.

At present, almost all requirements of garments accessories and packaging of readymade garments and other export-oriented industries are being met up locally which is about 95%.

However, to attain this target the sector needs to expand its market globally.

“Nowadays our market is confined to only in Bangladesh but we are capable of taking this to foreign markets also. Now we have a production capacity exceeds the local requirement with excellent quality,” Md Abdul Kader Khan, President, Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging

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Packaging Company Ltd.

Figure: Bangladesh Garments Accessories and Packaging sectors’ production capacity exceeds the local requirement with excellent quality.

Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGAPMEA).

“I think to boost the export of accessories and packaging products we need to participate in different international expositions.

We urged the EPB to give us the opportunity to participate in the international expos. We just want a booth, we will bear all costs,” said Kader Khan, also the Managing Director of Khan Accessories &

“If we could participate 4 to 5 expositions every year, we ought to be able to show our strength in garments accessories and packaging sector,” he emphasized.

“To achieve the US$50 billion export target by FY 2021, GAP sector is likely to be exported US$ 12 billion respectively. If the government provides adequate facilities and policy support, then we will be able to contribute more than $12bn of export earnings by 2021,” Kader Khan highlighted.

Export earnings from packaging and accessories items stood at $7.10 billion in FY 2017-18.

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Volume 12, Issue 02

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 Apparel Innovation

Ergonomics and comfort central to flame retardant apparel innovation FT Research Team Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal protective equipment used by workers in industries that pose a risk of most serious safety hazards, including oil & gas, mining, petrochemical, and electronics & electric power industry. Global flame retardant sales reached nearly 192 million square meters in 2018, with momentum likely to drive the market to a 6.2% YoY in 2019. Imposition of stringent regulatory rules and growing awareness about workers’ safety in high-risk industries worldwide continue to drive growth.

self-extinguishing characteristics.

However, both, inherent and treated flame retardant apparels are used in several end-user industries, depending on the industrial applications.

Based on the product types of flame retardant apparels, the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into two categories – inherent flame retardant apparels and treated flame retardant apparel. The price of the flame retardant apparels varies zone wise all over the world. (fig- 1)

The Fact.MR study provides valuable information and actionable insights on critical dynamics of the flame retardant apparel market to help readers to fathom future prospects and current growth parameters of the flame retardant apparel market.

The report opines that effective implementation of workplace safety guidelines in developing countries can open up new opportunities for manufacturers.

European market to create the most promising growth opportunities with over one-third volume share

Figure 1: Flame retardant apparel is an important type of personal protective equipment used by the worker in the industries.

Based on geographical regions,

CARG (2019-27)

Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Analysis by End Use

Middle East & Africa

Japan

Latin America

Asia Pacific (Excl. Japan)

North America

What is flame retardant apparel?

Value Opportunity (US$ Mn)

Flame retardant apparels are manufactured using materials, such as woven, non-woven, or knitted clothing, which have been treated chemically to give them

Oil & Gas Petrochemical Power

Source: Fact.MR

Mining

Electronics Automotive & Building & Federal & State & Electrical Transportation Contruction Departments

*The size of the pie charts represents relative market share in 2018

Figure 3: Global flame retardant apparel market analysis by end use.

Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Pricing Analysis (2018) Price (US$ per Mt Sq.)

Treated Flame Retardant Apparel

Inherent Flame Retardant Apparel

North America

13.8

15.0

15.3

16.8

Latin America

13.5

14.7

15.0

16.4

14.1

15.3

15.6

17.1

13.0

14.1

14.4

15.7

12.0

13.0

13.3

14.5

12.4

13.5

13.7

15.0

Europe Japan APEJ MEA Source: Fact.MR

Lowest

Highest

Figure 2: Global flame retardant apparel market pricing analysis (2018).

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Europe

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the flame retardant apparel market is segmented into North America, Latin America, Europe, Japan, Asia Pacific region excluding Japan (APEJ), and the Middle East & Africa (MEA). (fig- 2) EU remains at the forefront of global flame retardant apparel demand, with over one-third volume share in 2018. The constantly evolving regulatory framework for personal protective equipment in Europe has

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Apparel Innovation

accelerated the demand for flame retardant apparels in the region.

The mandatory conformity to the Regulation (EU) 2016/425 adopted by the European Commission has been instrumental in boosting the growth of the Europe flame retardant apparel market.

Oil & gas and power generation industries create promising growth opportunities The oil & gas industry remains the largest consumer of flame retardant apparels. Protective clothing, such as flame retardant apparels, has proven to be an effective safeguard against serious injuries and fatalities. The fatal accident rate (FAR) in the oil & gas industry decreased by approximately 36% in 2017 over 2016 as the number of fatalities decreased from 50 to 33 during the year. The study opines that the effectiveness of protective

ďƒś

Global Flame Retardant Apparel Market Analysis & Frecast by Type Incremental $ Opportunity US$ 793.6 Mn

2018E 2027F

US$ 736.0 Mn

2018E 2027F 2018E

US$ 806.6 Mn

2027F 2018E Woven

2027F Non-Woven

Knitted

Source: Fact.MR

clothing in improving worker safety will continue to drive sales in 2019 and beyond.

The demand for flame retardant apparels will be complemented by healthy adoption in the power industry. Evolving workplace safety regulation in power, electronics electrical, and automotive & transportation industries are also likely to influence growth.

Furthermore, rapidly growing oil & gas demand in the European Union has bolstered the expansion of the oil & gas industry in the region, which is likely to create positive growth environment for flame retardant apparel market players. Thereby, flame retardant apparel market players are shifting their focus on complying with the European regulatory framework and meeting the dynamic end-user requirements in the region.

16 exporters received export trophy in GAPEXPO 2019 Staff Correspondent

16 garments accessories, printing & packaging exporters of Bangladesh received the export trophy in GAPEXPO 2019.

Bangladesh Garments Accessories & Packaging Manufacturers & Exporters Association (BGAPMEA) awarded export trophy for the second time in the GAPEXPO 2019 to motivate exporters of garments accessories, printing and packaging of Bangladesh on the closing ceremony of GAPEXPO on 20 January at ICCB in Dhaka.

Among 60 applicants who exported from January to December 2017, 12 garments accessories exporters of the country had received the export trophy in four categories (Small, Medium, Large and Direct Export).

Besides, a woman entrepreneur was also awarded a trophy and certificate as part of the recognition in the ceremony.

State Minister for Planning

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organizations received gold, silver and bronze trophies. Siam Computerized Elastic Ind. Ltd; KDS Poly Ind. Ltd; Sams Packaging Ind. ltd respectively.

In large category, Montrims Ltd.; KDS Figure: 16 exporters had received an export trophy for Accessories Ltd.; Etafil their outstanding contribution.

Accessories Ltd. had received gold, silver, bronze trophy M.A Mannan was present in respectively for exporting. the ceremony as Chief Guest, while Bangladesh Bank, Deputy Governor, Shitangshu Kumar Sur Chowdhury were present as Special Guest in the ceremony. The ceremony was presided by the BGAPMEA President Abdul Kader Khan.

In small category three organizations received gold, silver and bronze trophies. They were Trims Int Ltd; Golden Accessories Ltd and Polycorr Packaging Ltd respectively.

In medium category, three

In the direct export category, Montrims Ltd; Simtex Industry ltd.; Al Muslim Accessories had received the trophy for exporting in China, India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka.

Special Award for Woman Entrepreneur went to Green House, Dhaka for exporting and in GAPEXPO stall category, Adzi Trims Ltd.; Union Label and Accessories; Cosmo Group; Technocraft Ltd. and Zisan Int Ltd. had received the export trophy.

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Volume 12, Issue 02

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Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman of Well Group, opined to boost the marketing efficiency of Bangladesh textile and apparel industry.

Despite having topnotch production house that produces international standard products Bangladesh is lagging behind than India or other rival countries only for the poor marketing efficiency.

 We have to boost our

marketing competence Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman, Well Group

Well Group is the pioneer of embroidery and sewing thread in Bangladesh, established in 1973 by Abdus Salam, Founder Chairman of the Group. Well Group spread its wings into the Textiles, Food, Hotel and Real Estate sectors in Bangladesh. The recent growth rate of Well Group is over 25% and such growth in this competitive market is the outcome of a consistent combination of high quality of products and professional management system.

Recently Sayed Nurul Islam, Chairman of Well Group shared his 35 years’ expert knowledge with the Textile Today Team about their journey, industry challenges and way outs etc.

Textile Today: Kindly give us an overview of Well Group’s ventures and recent updates.

Sayed Nurul Islam: Our main business is textiles although we are well known for Well Food. But only 10% of our total turnover is from Well Food and rest of 90% from textile and textile-related business.

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Back in 1973, my elder brother Abdus Salam started a small sewing thread processing factory.

I’ve joined in 1985 and started thinking about how to produce industrial sewing thread and concentrated on that.

Soon after we started a small sewing thread business with the

name ‘Well Thread’. From 1990 we grew a lot and at present, we are one of the largest sewing thread producers in South East Asia.

Because of our integrated facilities – from spinning, twisting, dying, finishing – all things combined I think we are one of the largest producers of sewing thread in this region.

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 Parallelly, we stepped on to the garment business by introducing Well Fashion Ltd. with 100 sewing machines in around 2005.

Currently, we have 6 composite factories with over 3000 machineries.

We also do garment trims and accessories like sewing thread, poly bag, twill tape, hanger, gum tape, printed label etc. also we have a washing facility. And from sewing to finished product, means we have a complete package in the textile sector.

And we have our own spinning with 40,000 spindles, then we have in house twisting facility, and dye the yarn to make yarn dyed fabric. Which ultimately make Well Group a fully composite group.

And our yearly export turnover is more than 100 million USD. Textile Today: Out of all these Well Group’s concerns, which one is your flagship business?

Sayed Nurul Islam: Although garment export is a good sum among the groups earning but our main venture is still sewing thread with Well Thread as the flagship business. And we feel proud to be the pioneer in sewing thread business in Bangladesh.

Well Group is one of the leading sewing thread producers in Bangladesh and exporting globally and we are competing with multinational companies like Coats, AMANN Bangladesh and A&E etc.

Textile Today: Currently Bangladesh textile and garment industry is facing many challenges like wage hike, raw material sourcing, gas price hike etc.

Textile bodies like BGMEA, BKMEA or others they don’t give any concrete guideline except saying to increase efficiency and productivity overall. So, as a CEO of Well Group, what is your viewpoint?

Sayed Nurul Islam: When we started the business back in the 1980s, there

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were also tremendous challenges.

And challenges will be always there. As CEO of Well Group, from my experience, I should say that manufacturers have to be a lot more hard worker and exceptionally innovative. And yes, we must also have to increase productivity and efficiency.

Otherwise, we can’t sustain this business. What I do believe, global competitiveness is very important.

If you talk about challenges, our neighboring competitor countries have higher labor wage, electricity is even expensive, and infrastructure is not far beyond the sun better than us. So, we shouldn’t highlight the negative things but positive happenings. At the back end, we have to work on our weakness.

Overall, Bangladesh has improved infrastructures in recent years, gas and electricity have also stabilized.

And definitely price is a concern, but uninterrupted power supply has given us the extra mileage.

Also we manufacturers can bear the justified utility adjustment I think.

Decade by decade the challenges has new turns. But we have to think far ahead and plan accordingly with innovation in mind. As well as we have to sales and marketing under a microscope to develop it. As Indians are far ahead than us in branding

Apparel Icon

and marketing, however, we don’t see enough diversified and quality products in Indian production houses. But their marketing is of international standard. Whereas Bangladesh’s production houses provide top-notch international standard products but our marketing is very poor. RMG producers are lacking in policy and strategy.

We need branding. Unless we grow in branding and, marketing Bangladesh’s textile and garment industry will suffer immensely.

Textile Today: What Bangladesh manufacturers should do to increase the brand value?

Sayed Nurul Islam: First we have to adopt the mindset of global competitiveness. Means not only we must increase our production, quality, and efficiency, but we also have to boost our marketing efficiency. We still are focused solely on the US and EU market.

But we don’t see that India, China are potential markets; Malaysia, Thailand, Korea, Japan, and South American countries are also lucrative markets for us. So, we need to expand our existing market into a truly global aspect.

Circular Fashion Brand

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Denim Expert launches circular fashion brand ‘Circle’ Desk Report The Denim Expert Ltd, a market leader in quality denim manufacturing, has launched the first images of the first circular fashion collection under the brand name of ‘Circle’.

In recent years, the notion of a circular economy has been widely promoted globally. In essence, a circular economy implies that all materials and products in society are reused and circulated amongst its users for as long as possible, in an environmentally safe, effective and just manner. Natural resources, including energy, are used effectively during both the production process and the life cycle of the product.

Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd., Mostafiz Uddin, said to Textile Today, “Last year, I was invited to represent Bangladesh at the Copenhagen Fashion Summit in Denmark, where the concept of circular fashion was discussed. I was inspired to set about making a

circular fashion line, produced in Bangladesh, a reality.”

Mosatfiz Uddin takes some initiatives circle for the development of the collection that includes designing with nontoxic, high quality, biodegradable materials and in a timeless style and fit to maximize the product’s durability, longevity and appeal to many customers.

“All products are produced with rigorous consideration to all relevant chemical regulations

and legislations worldwide. If some parts are made out of non-biodegradable materials, for example, the buttons and zipper, these must be able to be easily separated from the main garment components before biodegradation,” he highlighted.

The aim of the designs is to maximize product longevity, sustainability, and durability and to create an image that identifies a product and differentiates it from its competitors.

Day by day, this image of the product will become associated with a level of credibility, quality, and satisfaction in the consumer’s mind.

Figure : Transgender employees of Denim Expert Ltd with Mostafiz Uddin, Managing Director of Denim Expert Ltd. Courtesy: denimexpert.com

Flexwarm jacket offers perfect warmth in winter Desk Report malleable.

New innovations are improving every day’s human lifestyle and benefit the industry, the health and the environment. Flexwarm, a jacket that intelligently adjusts to keep the body temperature perfect, is one of the inventions that made human life easier.

The technology used in Flexwarm is unlike any heating technology invented before. The self-heating jacket looks absolutely amazing. It heats itself by using groundbreaking flexwarmtech. It can produce 50-degree celsius temperature within 360 seconds and the temperature is controlled by a smartphone.

The flexible heating elements now are thin (0.5mm) enough to be printed directly onto fabric.

Also, it is safe (low output voltage), durable and washable, along

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Flexwarm printed elements are better than carbon fiber in trans of heating purpose. Flexwarm takes less time to heats up. On the other hand, carbon fiber heats up slowly.

Figure: Flexwarm vest allow the user to take control of their comfort with precise temperature. Courtesy: 8kflexwarm.com

with precise temperature control feature. Therefore, the technology can be applied anywhere like garments, personal care items and home appliances.

Basic component The flexible film is insulated and waterproof and nano composite material are easily printable and

Key features  Thin and light heating elements: Flexwarm inside technology heating elements are light, flexible, breathable, providing you a comfortable experience.  Water resistant: Flexwarm heating system is water resistant, making it great for sports and outdoor activities.  Wireless warmth and precise  Temperature Flexwarm inside technology provides a user-friendly app that allow the user to take control of their comfort with precise temperature.

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