TK9 Treasures of the Sea

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

tasting kitchen #9 • sep 2013

Hong Kong

Treasures of the Sea 海中珍宝 Aberdeen

Seafood Central 海鲜集中地 centrAl

The Heart of the Mandarin 创意之源

starter

Flowers or food – or both? This lovely flower arrangement, created at The Mandarin Oriental’s Krug Room by Chef Uwe Opocensky’s, turns out to be both beautiful and delicious. Read more about "Branch" and Chef Uwe starting on page 38. 鲜花能与美食共存？图中的精美花卉料理出自文华东方酒店库克餐厅主厨 Uwe Opocensky之手，美轮美奂，味道诱人。如想了解更多请翻至本刊38页详读。

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Discover a New Dimension with K端ppersbusch

German Built-in Kitchen Appliances since 1875

treasures of the sea September 2013

•

ISSue #9

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOunDER & CO-PuBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Jenny Man GROuP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PuBLISHER jman@tasting-kitchen.com

Jeff Hammons

Jean Alberti

EDITOR AT LARGE jeff@tasting-kitchen.com

CHEF AT LARGE jean@tasting-kitchen.com

sales@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey cheang

David Hartung

gerard William Whitty

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy

EDITORIAL COORDInATOR CHInESE EDITOR

Alicia beebe

Li Meng de bakker Mamie chen Sarah Dallof Kristen gallagher Annabel Jackson Lucy Morgan roland Muksch Kate nicholson inara Sim Helene Wong

ART DIRECTOR

Kennis Yuen

group ADverTiSing

ASST. SALES DIRECTOR HK : +852 5196 0253 Macau: +853 6279 2238 gerard@tasting-kitchen.com

SubScripTionS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

prinTing Infinity Printing Company Limited 3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building 9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong

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CIRCuLATIOn & SuBSCRIPTIOn ExECuTIvE

rita ng ACCOunTAnT

COnTRIBuTInG WRITERS

The three sea urchins on our cover come from the cool waters off the coast of Brittany, France.

Along with all of the amazing seafood featured on pages 58 to 71 they were generously provided by Classic Fine Foods, Asia’s leading importer of gourmet foods, whose products confirm the truth of their motto: “We select the best from the world and bring it to you.” 封面所拍摄的三颗新鲜海胆来自法国西北部地区布列塔尼沿岸的冷水域。与本刊第58至71 页所提及的其它高级海鲜食材一样，均由Classic Fine Foods所供应。这家全亚洲首屈一指的 优质食材供应商，所有产品均能突显其宗旨：“我们坚持从全球各地引入最优质的食材。”

Photograph by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen 2013.

All rights reserved

contents

18 Food Champion • 24 Winning Dishes • 28 Sweet Moments • 30 Bounty of the Bay of Naples 32 Diners, Start Your Engines • 34 Seafood, Stainless Steel Style • 36 The Art of Elegant Living 38 The Heart of the Mandarin • 44 Blending the Senses • 46 Yin Yang Autumn Delights 50 Savor the Sea • 54 Singing the Brittany Blues • 58 Treasures of the Sea • 72 Mirror Menu

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74 Shooting Stars • 80 Fishy Business • 84 Classic Match • 96 Culinary Diplomacy 100 Cataplana de Marisco • 104 Seafood Central • 116 Austria’s New Generation of Winemakers 120 Champagne Savoir-Faire • 126 Paradise Found • 130 A Fine Selection • 134 Wine Player 138 W h e r e t o f i n d t K • 140 r e s t a u r a n t L i s t i n g s • 144 d e s s e r t

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publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

In this issue we present you with an autumn seafood smorgasbord: smoked eel, stir-fried scallops with ginger, stone-roasted John Dory, steamed grouper and doubleboiled conch, razor clams, Portuguese bacalhau and cataplana, Brittany blue lobsters, Peruvian ceviche, pan-roasted arctic char, abalone, oysters, crab and more.

We talk to an etiquette consultant about the cultivated way to enjoy caviar, share advice on properly pairing Champagne, and take you to the top of the Ritz-Carlton for an exclusive caviar and Champagne pairing menu.

In our cover story, you’ll be introduced to some underwater wonders that are worth adding to your bucket list, including goose barnacles and scorpion fish, Tarbouriech oysters and Brittany sea urchins. After spending some time getting to know these rare treasures of the sea, you’ll follow them to Mirror restaurant in Wan Chai where they were the stars in a memorably imaginative meal created by Chef Jeremy Biasiol.

If you’ve enjoyed seafood in Hong Kong, there’s a good chance it passed through the Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market on its way from the sea to your plate. In this issue’s photo essay by TK Director of Photography, David Hartung, we share glimpses of the energy and hard work that define the market in the hours before dawn.

In addition to all the seafood, we take you inside the Mandarin Oriental’s newly renovated Krug Room to experience some of Chef Uwe Opocensky’s famously innovative dishes, trace the inspiration and vision of one of Hong Kong’s wine pioneers, sample a world-class New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, meet a trio of Austrian winemakers, and explore the city’s largest cheese room.

Enjoy!

MARK HAMMONS

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Tai K

O oo penin Pla ce g in in O cto

ber

in Op Ta en iK no oo w Pla ce

Contemporary Japanese cuisine, served within a space that reflects elegant Zen simplicity.

With our third Shiro restaurant now open in TaiKoo Place and more to follow, join the Shiro Sushi Society to enjoy exclusive preview opportunities, member privileges and special invitations at all locations.

Please visit www.aqua.com.hk to join.

Shiro, LG1, Two Pacific Place, Queensway, Hong Kong

Shiro, 1301 Hysan Place, 500 Hennessy Rd, Causeway Bay

G/F, Lincoln House, TaiKoo Place, 979 King’s Rd, Island East

Tel: 2117 9481

Tel: 2155 8066

Tel: 2116 4969

chef’s note

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen.

My first job in the kitchen was at a restaurant in Alsace, on the German border, far from the sea. Twice a week I would arrive at the restaurant at midnight with the other apprentices and we would wait for a load of precious cargo.

The fresh seafood would arrive by trucks in the middle of the night in wooden boxes filled with crushed ice. The scallops were still live in their shells, full of sand, and I spent hours meticulously cleaning them until every grain was gone.

After graduation I landed a job in Paris at a restaurant called L’Alsace aux Halles, which specialized in seafood. There I learned how to cook, smoke, steam, grill, and sautée all types of seafood, but my most valuable lesson was taught by l’ecaillers (the scalers).

They taught me how to prepare raw seafood – oysters, clams, winkles, shrimp, gambas, and spider crabs – and how to create colorful seafood sculptures on a bed of seaweed and ice.

The restaurant was near the red light district in Paris, and at around four in the morning the girls would come to eat our frog legs soufflé and drink along with the butchers from nearby shops who were starting their days early with cognac and coffee.

Later, when I was cooking in the West Indies, I liked to watch the kids dive into the sea and come out with enormous conches. They’d extract the flesh and eat it raw. I tried it once and I could not even sink my teeth into the rubbery texture – cooked, though, it became a great delicacy.

The best seafood I ever had was at a small roadside restaurant in Yunnan, China. An older tattooed chef slowly cooked a fresh fish stuffed with tea leaves and red pimento over an open fire and it was extraordinary.

Sometimes culinary revelations find you when you’re least expecting them.

JEAN ALBERTI

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presented by g.h. mumm food champion Terry Ho Kai-tung is Hong Kong’s top oyster shucker. He prevailed over a field of twentyfive talented chefs at the 2013 Hong Kong Oyster Shucking Championship, organized by Café Deco on the Peak and Worldwide Seafood.

The chefs were tested on speed, dexterity and presentation – oysters needed to be opened cleanly, detached from the shell and presented artfully on ice. For his efforts, Chef Ho, who works at Café Express at the Hotel Panorama, won a trip to the Galway International Oyster and Seafood Festival in Ireland. 何启东(Terry)参加由顶峰景餐厅(Café Deco on the Peak)及环球海产(Worldwide Seafood)合办 的2013年香港开蚝挑战赛，从25位具有实力的竞 争者中脱颖而出，成为全港第一开蚝高手。开 蚝速度、敏捷度及摆盘都是评分标准－参赛的 厨师开蚝切忌拖泥带水、生蚝需完全脱壳及摆 于冰上的美观等都是重点所在。 Terry来自隆堡 丽景酒店「咖啡亭(Café Express)」，凭借一身 绝活为自己赢得前往爱尔兰「Galway国际生蚝 海鲜节」一游的门票。

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tasting news

红白交映 肉中骄子

red, white and moo Up until the seventeenth century in England, cattle were bred to be work animals, pulling heavy carts and working the land. After this point farmers began breeding cattle for their meat – strong steers with flesh sweetened by the green pastures of the English countryside.

Grass is the most natural feed for ruminants. It is pure and easy to digest. As they graze, cattle walk miles, becoming fit and lean.

Royal Standard English beef has good mouth

十七世纪的英国，牛只尚为拉曳拖车的驼兽，用于农忙耕地。而后农家才开始畜

feel and a pure, clear taste. This natural, delicious

养肉牛，以英国乡间翠绿青草为主食的食用牛肉质鲜甜，品质极佳。

and traditional beef from England’s green and pleasant land is now available in Hong Kong.

对牛只这种反刍动物而言，青草正是最天然的饲料，纯净无染又容易消化。 放牧的牛只每日行走数里，也让肉质变得结实精瘦。「皇家品质英国牛肉」口感好， 味道纯净、不带任何杂质。来自英国大草原、纯天然传统英国牛肉美味满分，现

www.englishbeef.hk

在在香港就吃得到。

红焰冰娘子

ice bride on fire “Autumn is traditionally wild game, hairy crab and truffle season, and these ingredients match well with traditional yet adventurous cocktails,” say China Rouge bartender Jerry Li and bar manager Roy Kong. Featuring flaming rosemary, traditional Shaoxing hua diao wine, fresh lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and tomato juice, Ice Bride on Fire is among three special drinks recently added to the menu at the exclusive Macau nightspot. For inspiration, Li and Kong drew on ancient Chinese wedding customs and literary references to the decadent wine parties of dynastic China. “The classic ingredients and familiar totally new sensory experience.” 澳门高级私人会所「红伶 (China Rouge)」名噪一时，调酒师 Jerry Li 及酒吧经理 「照传统，秋天正是品尝野味、毛蟹及松露的节候，搭 Roy Kong 异口同声表示 ： 配经典却带点颠覆性的调酒正当时。」以传统绍兴花雕酒为基酒、加入柠檬汁、 伍斯特郡黑醋、蕃茄汁，再插入迷迭香点火就是「红伶」最近推出的三大秋季调 酒之一「红焰冰娘子」。这款调酒以古代中国婚礼习俗为灵感、封建时期饮酒作

China Rouge 紅伶 Galaxy Hotel, Macau Avenida De Cotai, Taipa, Macau 澳門路氹城大馬路澳門銀河酒店 +853 2888 0888

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乐的宴会作为参考所创作。 Jerry 及 Roy 解释 ： 「经典的调酒成分及熟悉的味道让 人联想到昔日的美好时光，花雕酒则带来全新的感官体验。」

C o U R T E S y o F E n G L I S H B E E F, C H I n A R o U G E

flavors recall memories of good times, but adding hua diao wine makes for a

奢华中秋献礼

lunar luxury The Mid-Autumn Festival is a time for sharing and giving thanks. While millions are preparing to dig into all manner of traditional mooncakes, the festival’s famous culinary delight, those looking for an original alternative this year can opt for La Maison du Chocolat’s exotic Moonchocolates . Five different selections harbor flavors like ginger, blueberry and praline. Mid-Autumn revelers will also appreciate the lucky cloud and moon designs printed on both chocolates and their packaging. 又来到分享欢乐与表达感谢的中秋佳节，许多人 正 在 挑 选 琳 琅 满 目 的 传 统 月 饼。 但 今 年， 您 可 以 拥 有 不 一 样 的 选 择。 法 国 进 口 La Maison du Chocolat 中秋朱古力礼盒发挥独特创意，精选鲜

La Maison du Chocolat 2801 4880, Shop 2006 2/F, IFC Mall, 1 Harbour View, Central 中環港景街1號國際金 融中心商場2樓2006號舖

姜、蓝莓、果仁等五种口味，并于朱古力本身 及包装上均绘有象征喜庆吉祥的云中邀月图案， 是中秋佳节最亮眼、体面的精致礼品。

觅甜有方

a taste of le salon de thé no need for diners to pack their passports: a taste of France can now be found at the new location of Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. The chic tea salon, which opened in the ifc mall this summer, seats sixty and offers an afternoon tea service in addition to decadent pastries

C o U R T E S y o F L A M A I S o n D U C H o C o L AT, A TA S T E o F L E S A L o n D E T H é

and macarons almost too beautiful to eat. Think creamy mango cheesecake, fresh mixed fruit tart and chocolate cappuccino cake dusted with cocoa powder. The behindthe-scenes secret is simple: top-of-the-line fresh ingredients that elevate natural flavors. Délicieux! 品尝法式美味，何须远赴法国？ Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon 于香港国际金融中心商场盛大开幕，风格时尚， 内附 60 个座位，供应下午茶、各式诱人甜点及造型精巧、 令人爱不释手的马卡龙，法式美味，一次满足。还有绵 密的芒果起司蛋糕、新鲜综合水果塔及洒缀可可粉的巧 克力卡布奇诺蛋糕，每样都是让人食指大动的顶级甜点。 美味秘诀在于 ：运用品质最好的新鲜食材，突显原味的 鲜美。好吃没话说！ +852 2234 7422, www.robuchon.hk september 2013

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tasting news

珠宝糕点赏心悦目 美味无穷

rich jewels, rich tastes What do jeWelers, goldsmiths and pastry

chefs have in common?

“Both pastry and jewelry are seen as refined art pieces,” says Richard Long, Executive Pastry Chef at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. “We are all working towards stylistic and aesthetic perfection.”

A new afternoon tea collaboration between The Lounge & Bar at The RitzCarlton, Hong Kong and iconic Italian jewelry brand Damiani showcases these shared ideals. During the month of September, tea takers will be treated to edible chocolate pendants modeled on pieces from Damiani’s Belle Epoque collection. Other tempting pastries, like

珠宝工匠、金匠及糕点师傅三者有何相似

或是富五层质感的 limoni 茶香蛋糕、金黄

the five-textured limoni tea cake “shot”

之处？香港丽思卡尔顿酒店行政糕点总厨

西西里开心果及野莓牛角包等多种甜点，

and the golden Sicilian pistachio and

骆育文一语道出 ： 「糕点和珠宝都是精致的

散发珠宝般的璀璨光芒，撩动宾客的味蕾

raspberry croissant, tempt with saturated

艺术品，追求卓绝风格及雕琢极致美感的

与心弦。

jewel tones.

程度并无二致。」 酒店大堂酒廊 (The Lounge & Bar) 最

糕点精巧可人、维妙维肖，味道也无从挑剔。

jewelry, the meticulously crafted, gem-

新推出的下午茶套餐，便是与意大利首屈

其中以大量巧克力奶油交叠制作的「illy」

like pastries both display good taste and

一指的著名珠宝品牌「Damiani」共同打造

塔 将「Damiani」Gomitolo 系 列 戒 指 交 错

deliver it, literally. Chef Long counts a

的梦幻逸品。整个九月，宾客品茶时都能

的纹理设计表现得淋漓尽致，更是骆育文

creation in the ring category as one of his

同时享用仿造「Damiani」美好年代 (Belle

的得意之作。他自豪表示 ： 「味道和口感搭

favorite selections. The “illy” tarte echoes

Epoque) 系列项链坠饰制作的巧克力点心，

配得天衣无缝。」

the woven bands of Damiani’s Gomitolo col lection with cascading waves of chocolate cream. “It has a great balance of taste and texture,” says Long.

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The Damiani jewelry tea set is available September 1-30, 3 PM - 6 PM. Damiani 限量下午茶将于2013年9月1日至30日下午3时至6时供应 HKD388 for one, HKD618 for two. +852 2263 2270, restaurantreservation.hk@ritzcarlton.com

COuRTESy OF DIAMAnI

以「Damiani」顶级珠宝为灵感打造的

Figuratively inspired by Damiani’s

秋唤味蕾醒

autumn awakening

The Mira Hong Kong has joined forces with venerable Australian winemaker Penfolds to bring a seasonal set dinner menu to their wine destination restaurant, WHISK. Chef de Cuisine Bjoern Alexander has created a fresh and original menu sourcing the finest produce from around the world. Shellfish are paired with a

餐酒聪明搭配

wine and dine wisely

C O u R T E S y O F T H E M I R A H O n G KO n G , R n A I S S A n C E H A R B O u R V I E W H OT E L

Penfolds Riesling from the Barossa Valley. Smoked eel and lemongrass meet their perfect match with a

“Wine is like a friend of mine,” says leading sommelier Andy She, who

Penfolds Pinot noir. And with Chef Bjoern’s succulent

since April 2013 has been making wine selection simple for restaurant

Scottish beef, don’t miss the much-loved Penfolds

guests at the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel in Hong Kong. Burgundy

2010 Magill Estate Shiraz, a small batch drop made

chardonnays and pinot noirs from new Zealand’s Central Otago wine

from hand-picked grapes from the winery’s original,

region currently rank among his favorites. Mr. She says wine and wine

heritage-listed Magill vineyard.

pairing never fail to fascinate: “Every time I pair wines with various foods

or dishes, I have a new experience.”

The Mira Hong Kong 与澳洲知名酿酒商「Penfolds」 合 作， 打 造 旗 下 品 酒 殿 堂「Whisk」 欧 陆 餐 厅 全 新

自 2013 年 4 月加入香港万丽海景酒店

的 季 节 套 餐。 在 主 厨 Bjoern Alexander 严 格 把 关

(Renaissance Harbour View Hotel) 以

下，餐厅也搜罗了来自世界各地的顶级食材。贝类

来，担任首席侍酒师的 Andy She 在餐

搭 配 Barossa 河 谷 酿 制 的 Penfolds Riesling 白 酒 享

厅里协助客人挑选餐酒，他还以「酒如

用 ，Penfolds 黑皮诺红酒则是烟熏鳗鱼及柠檬草的

密友」来形容自己与酒密不可分的关

最佳拍档。至于主厨特制、软嫩多汁的苏格兰牛肉料

系。他目前的最爱则是纽西兰中奥塔哥

理，享用时一定要试试 Penfolds 2010 年的 Magill 酒

(Central Otago) 酿酒区所产的伯艮第夏

庄 Shiraz 葡萄酒，来自 Penfolds 最早的 Magill 葡萄园，

多内及黑皮诺葡萄酒。葡萄酒与餐酒搭

仍保留酿酒的优良传统，严选人工摘取的限量葡萄所

配魅力无穷，让他不时萌发崭新灵感 ：

酿，备受好评。 Call 2315 5999 or book online at www.themirahotel.com.

Available until October 31, 2013. 查询可致电2315 5999或于www.themirahotel.com 线上预 约， 供应至2013年10月31日。

「每逢食物料理遇上葡萄酒，都让我有 新的体验。」 Renaissance

Harbour View Hotel 香港万丽海景酒店 www.renaissanceharbourviewhk.com

tasting news

季节料理抢鲜争艳

winning dishes A chAnge of seAson brings with it new tastes

and flavors. The chefs at Wynn Macau have recently launched new menus featuring fresh and seasonal ingredients from around the world.

新季悄临，永利澳门酒店 (Wynn Macau) 招牌餐厅理各 自推出全新菜单，搜罗世界 各地的新鲜时节食材，打造 崭新美馔，满足饕客味蕾。 Stir-Fried Scallops with Marinated Ginger At Golden Flower, Executive Chef Liu Guo Zhu ensures that, in authentic Tan-style, the true flavors of his ingredients are honored and kept in perfect balance. This innovative dish, a combination of seafood and young ginger, brings together ingredients from both Southern and Northern China. The scallops are fresh and tender, the ginger is pungent and crisp – the spicy element enhances the sweetness of the scallops. Crunchy Shandong leeks add another textural dimension. 泡姜滑炒带子 「京花轩」行政总厨刘国柱主掌的「谭家菜」的风格， 一向主张彰显食材原味，拿捏精准完美。这道创意料理 结合海鲜及嫩姜，食材正好来自中国南北两方。带子新鲜 软嫩，辅以呛鼻爽脆的嫩姜，一丝劲辣正好激发带子的鲜 甜。饶富口感的山东韭葱则让这道菜吃来层次更加丰富。

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Stone-Roasted John Dory with Dungeness Crab Risotto and Leek Emulsion Another winning combination of premium ingredients and amazing textures

by Il Teatro Chef De Cuisine Anthony Alaimo.

Flown in directly from the pristine waters of southern New Zealand, the John Dory is stone-roasted, avoiding the harshness of a grill and giving the fish a subtler flavor. The crab risotto provides rich texture. 石烧尊多利鱼伴珍宝蟹意大利饭及大蒜浓汁 「帝雅廷意大利餐厅」高级主厨Anthony Alaimo 的拿手料理 可说是顶级食材与绝佳口感的完美结合。为避免烤架破坏肉 质，纽西兰南部纯净海域空运而来的尊多利鱼以石头炙烧， 让细致美味更上一层楼。螃蟹炖饭则增添丰富的口感，与鲜 嫩鱼肉搭配得恰到好处。尊多利鱼与黄金蟹均是以永续渔 业捕捞方式取得，也正是餐厅研发新菜色所遵循的理念。

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Kaiseki Appetizer The key to great kaiseki is harmony – using just the right flavors so that every dish succeeds on its own and also plays it role in the ensemble. An artist at heart, Mizumi Chef de Cuisine Hiroshi Kagata designs each dish so that tastes are carefully balanced and no dish overwhelms another. For absolute freshness, the seasons determine which ingredients are selected.

Chef Kagata’s kaiseki appetizer can include grilled sweet fish, seared Omi beef, marinated deep fried rock fish, boiled abalone, spicy cod roe and cucumber, sweet corn, lily root and boiled shrimp. 「泓」日本料理：怀石料理前菜 怀石料理的精髓就是「完美调和」， 味道调试得恰到好处，让每道菜发 光发亮，各司其职却又能为整体加 分。 「泓」日本料理高级主厨加贺 田浩精心雕琢每道菜肴，让味道彼 此调和，却不喧宾夺主，锱铢必较 的艺术家性格展露无遗。因为追求 绝对新鲜，通常会以季节来决定烹 煮的时令食材。主厨的怀石料理前 菜包括烧烤香鱼、炙烧近江牛、酥 炸调味石斑鱼、汆烫鲍鱼、辣味 鳕鱼子及小黄瓜、甜玉米、白藕及 汆烫鲜虾，无一不是一时之选。

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Seafood Panzanella SaladSalad Seafood Panzanella Il Teatro ChefChef de Cuisine Anthony Il Teatro de Cuisine Anthony Alaimo puts puts a fresh spin spin on a on a Alaimo a fresh classic Italian salad.

The original classic Italian salad.

The original panzanella saladsalad has been panzanella has been popular for centuries for its popular for centuries forsimple its simple combination of flavors and textures. combination of flavors and textures.

Heirloom tomatoes, cucumber, Heirloom tomatoes, cucumber, onions, avocado and homemade onions, avocado and homemade citruscitrus dressing makemake a dynamic dressing a dynamic blendblend of fresh flavors.

Croutons of fresh flavors.

Croutons add crunch.

Scallops, prawns and and add crunch.

Scallops, prawns lobster add depth of flavor. lobster add depth of flavor. 海鲜意大利面包牛油果沙律伴柑橘汁 海鲜意大利面包牛油果沙律伴柑橘汁 传统意式panzanella沙拉作法简单， 传统意式panzanella沙拉作法简单， 口感新鲜细腻，在意大利流传数百年 口感新鲜细腻，在意大利流传数百年 而人气丝毫不减，在「帝雅廷意大利 而人气丝毫不减，在「帝雅廷意大利 餐厅」高级主厨Anthony Alaimo的 餐厅」高级主厨Anthony Alaimo的 巧妙改良下，沙拉加入味道质朴的祖 巧妙改良下，沙拉加入味道质朴的祖 传蕃茄、小黄瓜、洋葱、酪梨及自制 传蕃茄、小黄瓜、洋葱、酪梨及自制 柑橘酱，舒爽度倍加，方形面包块增 柑橘酱，舒爽度倍加，方形面包块增 添酥脆口感，最后在扇贝、明虾及龙 添酥脆口感，最后在扇贝、明虾及龙 虾的搭配下，层次更为丰富饱满。 虾的搭配下，层次更为丰富饱满。

s e p st e pmtbeemrb 2e 0r 1230 |1 T3A S| TTIANSGT IKNIGT CKHI ET N C H| E27 N |

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甜蜜时光

sweet moments Toward the end of her recently released book, Butterflies and All

Things Sweet , Bonnae Gokson quotes the Bengali writer Rabindranath Tagore: “The butterfly counts not months but moments, and has time enough.” The book, subtitled The Story of Ms. B’s Cakes , is a celebration of Ms. Gokson’s focus on evanescent pleasures, on the enjoyment of moments, and on her tremendous talent for creating sweet moments for other people.

These sweet moments often take the form of her famously inventive cakes. “The cakes I create for my customers are like butterflies, here and then gone, devoured in a few sweet bites,” she says. The book itself is a series of lovely moments, with images of the cakes surrounded by the things that have inspired them: “Spools of brightly colored ribbons, the seeds of a pomegranate, a fragment of handmade lace that holds memories of my years in fashion, the petals of a peony: all these things inspire me to create cakes that give pleasure to my customers.”

You might say that Bonnae Gokson’s aim in life has been to release a series of butterflies out into the world. The evidence in her book suggests that she has been succeeding, and beautifully. 香港「甜点女王」郭志怡 (Bonnae Gokson) 在新书「Butterflies and 「蝴蝶在世不 All Things Sweet」文末引用了印度诗人泰戈尔的一段话 ： 算年月，而以瞬息计，却已无比充裕。」新书副标为「The Story of Ms. B’s Cakes」，记载了郭志怡追求生命乐趣的执着。她享受每一刻，发挥 无限想像力为客人创造甜蜜回忆。 这些令人无法忘怀的回忆，主要归功于她的招牌创意蛋糕。郭志 怡形容 ： 「我为客户量身订做的蛋糕就像蝴蝶一样，不消几口即享用完 毕，稍纵即逝。」新书内容如同美好时光的汇串，一幅又一幅精美蛋糕 伴随其灵感来源的美丽画面，正如书中所述 ： 「亮色缎带的卷轴、石榴 的籽、勾起过往时尚界回忆的一片手工蕾丝，或牡丹花瓣－都能激发 我的灵感，创作独一无二的蛋糕，带给客人欢乐。」 或许可以说郭志怡的人生目标，就是让一只只蝴蝶来到这个世界。 由这本书可知，她成功了，蝴蝶翩翩起舞，美丽又动人。

Marie Antoniette’s Crave Cake from SEVVA

books

Ebony & Ivory from Ms B’s Cakery

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food & art

那不勒斯湾 大海的恩赐

bounty of the bay of naples A vivid sea-themed mosaic provides insight into the dining habits of the Ancient Romans.

Before the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79 AD, the Roman

西元 79 年，维苏威火山爆发前，罗马帝

port city of Pompeii did a roaring trade in wine, olives and its

国海港城市庞贝一片欣欣向荣，可见酒类、

most infamous export, garum . This pungent fish sauce, made

橄榄的大宗交易，以及让不少人掩鼻走避、

by crushing whole fish and fermenting the mixture in brine for

味道刺鼻的出口品鱼酱 (garum)。罗马人

up to six weeks, was used to flavor dishes across the Empire.

把全鱼捣烂、浸于盐水中发酵六周制成鱼

Not everybody was a fan: Seneca, the Roman philosopher

酱，为当时全国家家户户均会使用的调味

and statesman, complained that it “burns up the stomach

品。不过也有人不买帐，像罗马哲学家及

with its salted putrefaction.”

政治家赛内卡就曾抱怨，鱼酱的「盐腐味

In this wonderfully detailed mosaic, unearthed by archeologists in a nondescript city villa, the observer is

30

让胃都要烧起来了」。 这幅马赛克于庞贝某处不知名的别墅

invited to dive deep under the white crests of the Bay of

中出土，细节之丰富让考古学家大为惊艳，

Naples. Among the rocks and seaweed adorning the sea

可一探那不勒斯湾海底世界的奥妙。磐石

floor, a lobster and an octopus are locked in battle. Around

及海草处处可见的海床上，龙虾及章鱼正

them floats a smorgasbord of edible sea creatures. Some –

打的难分难解，旁边则穿插了各种可食用

the mullet, bream, squid, eel and prawn – feature regularly

的海中生物，其中鲱鱼、欧鳊、乌贼、鳗

on tables today, while others, such as the sharks, stingray,

鱼及明虾至今仍是常见的食材，另外像鲨

scorpion fish and barnacle, are rarer delicacies.

鱼、魟、天蝎鱼及藤壶则是较为少见的珍馐。

The Ancient Romans used mosaic to decorate walls and

古罗马人喜欢用马赛克装饰商店、餐

floors in shops, restaurants and dwellings. Similar undersea

厅及住宅的墙壁及地板。类似的海洋主题

scenes have been discovered in other Pompeii residences,

作品也曾于庞贝他处民宅，如奢豪的「农

such as the lavish House of the Faun, suggesting that many

牧 神 之 家 (House of the Faun)」 中 发 现，

citizens of the city may have shared a grateful appreciation

代表了当时许多庞贝居民对于地中海惠赐

for the bounties of the Mediterranean Sea.

的丰饶物产都怀着感激之心。

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inspired living

老饕们，引擎始动

diners, start your engines

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In honor of the approaching Macau Grand Prix, set a visually exciting table with Hermès’ racetrack motif Rallye 24 collection. The bold Limoges-porcelain tableware stands out with its modern design and six color options reminiscent of racing-team hues. Rallye 24 comes in 17 shapes and is dishwasher and microwave safe – a collection created to go the distance. 为了即将到来的澳门格兰披治大赛车，顶级品牌爱 马仕(Hermès')以车道为设计灵感，推出由Limoges 陶瓷打造、全新的「Rallye 24」系列餐盘。前卫 及流线设计，及六大色系均让人联想到参赛车队 的代表颜色。 「Rallye 24」系列共有17种造型， 均可放入洗碗机及微波炉内使用，绝对耐用。

+852 2525 5900, www.hermes.com

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inspired living

海鲜食具精选

seafood, stainless steel style Succulent seafood is also slippery seafood.

To avoid a mess, invest in Pott’s stainless steel tools.

Oyster Glove 生蚝手套 Comes in standard and large to fit a range of oyster lovers.

Stirring Spoon / Lobster Fork 挖杓/龙虾叉 Slim sticks do double-duty.

One end stirs, the other spears.

Shells don’t stand a chance against this heavy duty appliance.

细柄两端各有功用： 一边挑起，一边戳刺。

龙虾钳设计精巧、 耐用，虾壳迎刃而解。

€ 39 (set of two, € 74)

€ 156



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Marisco Oyster Chucker 牡蛎剥壳刀

Oyster bowl serving set with stand

Oyster Fork 生蚝叉

Twist and slide the blade to open even the most stubborn shells.

生蚝立盘 A little ice, a lot of oysters and a feast is ready.

Frees an oyster from its watercolor shell with ease.

顺势插入、一扭，最难缠的牡 蛎壳也只能乖乖敞开大门。

铺点冰块、放上大量生蚝， 美味飨宴准备上桌。

€ 159

€ 175

标准、特大尺寸应有 尽有，满足生蚝迷所需。 € 218

H www.pott-bestecke.de

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Lobster Pliers 龙虾钳

september 2013

将生蚝自水彩般的壳中 取出，不费吹灰之力。 € 39



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savoir-vivre

雅致生活 艺术所在

the art of elegant living Etiquette consultant Catherine Soulas-Baron is the founder of Hong Kong’s Academy of Etiquette and Modern Manners. She devotes herself to studying the role of food and drink in the history of society and is an expert on savoir-vivre and the art of elegant living.

What is savoir-vivre exactly?

仪节 (savoir vivre) 一词该如何理解？

The French phrase savoir-vivre is a little hard to translate. All in

「savoir vivre」在法文中可指礼貌、礼节、

one phrase it conveys politeness, etiquette, demeanor, personal

举止、个人行为、风度或餐桌礼仪等，意

behavior, how one carries oneself, table manners and more. It

思很多，要直译其实有点困难。如需诠释

can be understood as the path to a life of cultivation. France’s

可理解为高尚生活之道。法国的高尚生活

own path to cultivation started with King Louis XIV, the Sun

之道从太阳国王露易十四开始，已成为世

King, and has long since been the world standard for etiquette.

界礼仪之坐标。时至今日 , 已成为一种生

Nowadays, it has become both a lifestyle and a life philosophy

活格调，一种生活哲学，是优雅与卓越的

synonymous with elegance and excellence. Savoir-vivre defines

代名词。如何品尝美食、如何品酩、如何

how delicacies are to be enjoyed, how to taste wine, how to

品味雪茄、如何招待宾客，乃至于餐桌礼

savor a fine cigar, how to receive guests, and the rules of table

仪等都含括其中 。

etiquette.

What is so important about etiquette?

礼仪为何如此重要？

These kinds of soft skills can turn a simple meal into a pleasant

透过得当的软性技能 (soft skills)，简单的

and relaxing event, as well as assist you with smoothly fitting

一餐也能变成愉悦及惬意的飨宴，同时也

into refined social circles. Proper etiquette makes you

能帮助你顺利融入上流社交圈。

stand out from the crowd, gives you an elegant

举止恰宜的人与众不同，举

bearing and encourages modesty and respect.

手投足间得体优雅、端庄 有礼，受人尊重。

Caviar EtiquEttE

如何享用鱼子酱

 Caviar is considered by some to be the

 鱼子酱是西方顶级食

pinnacle of Western gourmet cuisine. Therefore,

材的代表，常盛装于水晶

it should be served in a crystal bowl to better highlight its elegance.

36

盘中，衬托其高雅的气质。  鱼子酱一定要置于铺着碎冰的

 Caviar should always be served on a bed of crushed ice.

盛盘上。

 A silver spoon should never be used with any respectable

 任何品质优良的鱼子酱，均不得以银制

caviar, as it will transfer an unpleasant taste to the caviar.

汤匙品尝，否则会影响鱼子酱的原味。

 There are many ways to enjoy caviar, but true connoisseurs

 品尝鱼子酱的方式很多，但真正的行家

eat it after making a small mound of the eggs on the back of the

喜欢用手背来品味，虎口处放上一小匙鱼

hand, between the thumb and index finger.

子酱，直接吸吮入肚就是最佳的方式。

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tasting notes

创意之源

the heart of the mandarin At The Mandarin Oriental’s Krug Room, Chef Uwe Opocensky’s innovative dishes defy categorization.

The firsT sign that this will be no ordinary dining experience is the delicate posy of freshly picked English wildflowers on the long marble dining table of the recently refurbished Krug Room. Uwe Opocensky, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s Executive Chef, has seen to the floral arrangement himself.

How interesting that the Executive Chef concerns himself with the details of the room’s decoration. His attention to detail is clearly extraordinary – but that’s not the whole story. The floral arrangement isn’t just beautiful. Every element of the gracefully composed bouquet also turns out to be edible: the pale pink meadowsweet, the toothwort sprigs, the fine nettles and the “branches” that are in fact crisp brown bread

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sticks intended to be dipped in the creamy herb butter placed at the base of the vase.

Chef Uwe grins: “You’re not going to be eating normal food today.”

Indeed. In his six years as Executive Chef of that grand dame of Hong Kong establishments, the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, German-born Chef Uwe has brought imagination, freshness and vision to a hotel that has always enjoyed a sterling reputation for dining excellence, but perhaps less recognition for innovation and creativity. The process of transforming the Mandarin into a dynamic dining destination began here, in the Krug Room, the

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twelve-seat enclave that is now the beating heart of the hotel’s gastronomic culture, the place where ideas have their genesis before radiating out into the hotel’s other restaurants.

“We start with a concept for a dish. In the Krug Room, we might test this idea on two people first. We then think, ‘Can we do this dish for five hundred people? A thousand? Two thousand?’ You modify it slightly of course. But the Krug Room is the heart of where it all begins.”

The transformation of the room has been inspired in part by the idea of dining in a luxury train carriage. “Like the Orient

Express,” explains Chef Uwe. Gone are the austere white plates and contemporary finishes of the former Krug Room, replaced by tones of plum and gold and an air of refined, but never ostentatious, luxury.

This makes sense, given the partnership with that most elite yet discreet of Champagne brands – Krug. The weight of such a reputation boosts expectations sky-high: is there ever any hesitation in pushing the envelope, knowing Krug CEO Margareth Henriquez is watching every move with interest? “No. Never,” says Uwe. “It’s exactly the opposite. They are always asking me, ‘What

踏入新近整修完成的香港文华东方酒店「库 克厅」，便会被大理石长桌上的现摘英伦野 花束所吸引。雅致精巧的花艺由行政总厨 Uwe Opocensky 亲自打理，也似乎预示着 接下来会是场别开生面的飨宴。 作为总厨，连餐厅内的装饰摆设都要 亲自操办，还真少见。他对细节锱铢必较 的程度令人赞叹，不过若以为仅止于此可 就大错特错了。 花艺设计不只为赏心悦目，花束里看 得到的几乎都是食材，包括淡粉色的绣线 菊、齿鳞草细枝、上好的荨麻以及置于花 瓶底部的「树枝」－其实是沾裹草本奶油、 酥脆焦黄的面包条。

德籍总厨 Uwe 笑着说 ： 「今天会来点 跟平常不一样的。」 的确，他入主香港奢华酒店代名词「文 华东方」六年来，以天马行空的想像力带 来许多惊奇及愿景，除了维持「文华东方」 于顶级餐饮界第一把交椅的地位不坠，也 挹注原本较为缺乏的创新力道及创意想法。 「库克厅」在此转型过程中扮演举足轻重的 角色，仅能容纳 12 位宾客的斗室却是驱动 「文华东方」追求极致餐饮文化的核心所在， 创意由此灵聚，继而辐散至其他餐厅。 「一道料理我们会先提想法，可能在库 克厅试做给两个人吃，然后会想，『那可以 做给五百个人吃，甚或一两千人吃吗？』

The Lawn, Afternoon Tea

当然过程会稍有调整，但库克厅就是心脏， 所有创意的来源。」 库克厅重新装修的灵感来自高级列车 车厢，总厨说明 ： 「就像在东方特快车上用 餐一样」，往昔素静淡白的餐盘及当代设计 风格已不复见，取而代之的是青紫及金色 的主色调、精致却不铺张的低调奢华。 华美气势正与库克厅另一幕后推手， september 2013

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are you going to come up with next?’ There is no limitation here on what you should and shouldn’t do. When I speak with Krug, it is never, ‘Oh, what food are you going to do to go with our Champagne?’ They are totally relaxed about the whole thing.”

Chef Uwe’s confidence and unfettered creativity are manifest in his exquisite “Vivaldi” dish. Inspired by its namesake’s Four Seasons concertos, it is an artfully arranged medley of paprika, pea, pumpkin and caviar purees, poured to form the image of a tree in full seasonal splendor. A cherry-shaped ball of fois gras dangles from

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a branch. “For a dish like this, I’ll do a drawing, and then from that we make a special stencil to create the image.”

Food this precise is serious business, but Chef Uwe’s sense of humor ensures that dining at the Krug Room is never stiff or pretentious. He recalls the story of a frequent Krug Room customer who hired the room for his 40th birthday. “He asked, ‘Can we do something special here?’ We said of course we can, so we served a school dinner. It was big pots of vegetables, mash, peas, steak and kidney pie, even our interpretation of Spam in a can.” And the pièce de résistance? Chef

Uwe, dressed in a tuck-shop apron, wheeling the feast in on a kitchen trolley and doling out wooden trays so everyone could stand in line to get their serving. “That was an interesting experience!” he laughs.

And creating an experience, explains Chef Uwe, is a chef ’s most important goal.

“If you come to the Mandarin and it is just an intake of food, I have not succeeded.

Hong Kong is so fast paced. If I can make you stop for a moment, have a conversation about the food, take a picture even, put away the Blackberry and enjoy the moment, then I’m doing my job well.”

同名顶级香槟品牌的风格相互衬托。与业 界无人不晓的「库克」香槟合作，想必期 待值也几乎破表 ：想到一举一动都被「库 克」执行长 Margareth Henriquez 都看在眼 里，是否真能放开胆子去尝试？ Uwe 强调： 「跟大家想的刚好相反，反而是他们一直问 我『接下来要做什么新东西』，没有人下指 导棋，想做什么都可以。和库克沟通的时候， 从来不会听到『你要创作什么料理来搭配 库克的香槟？』，他们很放心，也从不干涉。」 总厨无穷的想像力在发想自作曲家韦 瓦第知名协奏曲「四季」的同名自信之作 中展露无遗。在他巧妙安排下，混制红辣椒、 豌豆、南瓜及鱼子酱成泥，绘制一棵尽显

春日之美的树，加上悬挂树枝、樱桃形状 的鹅肝球，更添趣味。「做这种创意料理 我会先画草图，再就此特制模版，方便实 际做出造型。」 料理做到如此精准不能不令宾客肃然 起敬，但总厨独有的幽默感，却总能让库 克厅的气氛轻松自然。他还记得有个常客 某次包场要庆祝 40 岁生日： 「客人问我『能 不能来点特别的？』我说当然没问题，于 是就做了全套的英美学校晚餐。大锅大锅 的蔬菜、马铃薯泥、豌豆、牛排及肉排腰 子派，以及库克风格的猪肉罐头应有尽有。 Uwe 还配合演出，穿上白围裙，化身打菜 大叔推出餐车，宾客排排站着，等他派发

Vivaldi, The Krug Room

木头餐盘拿食物，更是『当天的高潮所在』。」 总厨也忍俊不住 ： 「当真兴味盎然！」 为 客 人 创 造 体 验， 厨 师 责 无 旁 贷。 Uwe 特别强调 ： 「如果到文华东方只是吃吃 东西就走的话，就是我失职。香港步调这 么快，如果我能让客人稍微抽空聊聊眼前 的美食，甚至黑莓机先放一旁，拍张照片， 享受当下，我就成功了。」 september 2013

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tasting notes

How does Krug maintain consistent

all the aspects of the Champagne to show

You have recently been exploring the

quality every year?

themselves. They call it “The Joseph” after

realm of sound with your Champagne –

We keep a library of beautiful vintages

our founder. But you could also serve Krug

tell us a little more about that.

and blend them together to make the

in a white wine glass to give it a chance to

Every Champagne sounds different, but I

most stunning liquid, ensuring that when

reveal its flavors. As the wine warms up

think Krug has the most beautiful sound

a particular vintage is disappointing, Krug

when you drink it, you will notice more and

of all. Everyone appreciates the beauty

lovers will still have the chance to drink

more aromas and flavors coming to the

in the sound of the sea, and as children

a wonderful Champagne. The blending

fore – it’s a journey, down to the last sip!

we hold seashells to our ears to hear the roar and whoosh of the waves. I was

is an art – there can be over a hundred individual wines in a blend and it is

It’s really about activating all the senses.

inspired to bring that dimension – the

completely driven by taste. The blend will

Champagne is a drink that delights all

sense of sound – to the experience of

be changed and altered until it is perfect.

the senses. When you take a sip of

tasting Champagne, so Krug has created

Champagne the first thing you do is smell

a beautiful conch-like shell, which fits on

How should Champagne be served to

it – this opens your palate and allows you

top of the Riedel glass. If you put your ear

appreciate it fully?

to fully savor the wine. But there is more

to the shell, it amplifies the sound of the

Champagne is about joy, so its flavor should

to wine than just those two senses. It

bubbles.

not be stifled. I don’t like flute glasses as

looks beautiful, with the bubbles rising in

When you agitate the liquid, the

they hide the flavor of the wine. And it is

the golden liquid. And there is an aural

sound becomes louder and more intense.

not good to serve Champagne too cold – it

quality too – the pop of the cork, the

I love to watch people’s faces when they

restrains the subtle notes. Riedel designed

sound as the wine is poured into a glass,

listen to Champagne for the first time –

us a special glass, which is wider and allows

and the sound of the bubbles dancing.

they are so beautiful!

blending the senses

Joseph Krug founded the Krug Champagne House in 1843 with a vision: to produce Champagne of superlative quality and to do it every year, again and again. With

a background in the commercial wine trade, he felt that he owed his customers a wonderful wine regardless of the vagaries of that year’s harvest. Current Krug CEO Margareth Henriquez spoke with TK about blending vintages and senses. •

早在 1843 年，

Joseph Krug 创立库克香槟酒庄 (Krug Champagne) 时就惦记着一件事 ：每年都要制作出品质无可挑剔的香槟，循环往复。因 为出身酒水贸易背景，他总觉得不管每年收成好坏，都应让顾客拥有绝佳的美酒享受。库克香 槟 总 裁 Margareth Henriquez 近 日 特 别 接 受 TK 访 问， 分 享 混 酿 酒 及 品 酒 感 官 享 受 的 经 验 谈。

库克香槟如何保持品质上乘？

「Joseph」为名的宽颈酒杯，能完整体现香

混酿之最 感官之旅

您最近一直钻研香槟的声音，其中故事能

我们对于葡萄丰收年份均有详细记载，精

槟的各种特色。用白酒杯也是一种选择，

否和我们分享一下？

心挑选、混酿制作令人惊艳的好酒，即便

可以让我们品牌的香槟散发独有的气味。

每支香槟听起来都不一样，但我敢说库克

某一特定年份的酒液不尽人意，我们的忠

入口后香槟渐暖，会逐渐引发内蕴的多种

声音之美，绝对数一数二。海洋之声，大

实客户仍不乏特极香槟可享用。混酿真的

香气及味道。在最后一口前，味蕾都能徜

家都非常推崇，小时候我们也喜欢把贝壳

是门艺术，动辄就要混搭上百种酒液，箇

徉在各式绝妙的美味中。

放耳边， 聆听浪潮的翻覆呼啸。所以我就想， 何不加强听觉的享受，让品尝香槟的体验

中拿捏完全取决于所要的味道。达到完美 品质前，混酿需要不断修整及微调。

喝香槟就是要让人五感舒畅是吧？

更加丰富。库克因此在特制 Riedel 酒杯上

香槟能启动全身感官，让人通体舒畅。喝香

加缀看似贝壳的响螺，造型相当别致。喝

香槟的最佳享用方式是？

槟第一件事就是「闻」 ，有助打开味觉，品

香槟时附耳到响螺边，泡沫声可听得一清

香槟为欣悦而生，天性使然。一般细长酒

味好酒。但除了嗅觉及味觉，视觉也是关键

二楚。摇晃酒杯，声音会愈加集中继而更

杯会掩盖香槟风味，对此我个人并不欣赏。

所在，气泡不断从金黄色泽的香槟中冒出，

响亮。我喜欢看大家第一次听到香槟声音

此外香槟不宜过冷，否则细致的味道会被

着实赏心悦目。加上开瓶、倒酒及泡沫喷流

的表情，真是太美好了！

压抑。 Riedel 特别为我们设计了以创办人

起舞的声音，不斥也是一场听觉飨宴。

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sponsored feature

Steamed Sliced Garoupa with Egg White Custard and Chinese Wine 花雕蛋白蒸海斑球

sponsored feature

阴阳食补暖迎秋

yin yang autumn delights City of Dreams Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung chooses the best and healthiest ingredients for Jade Dragon’s autumn menu.

“We like to do as much as we can to make

our guests feel comfortable,” says Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon Restaurant. “That includes looking after their physical well-being. Our dishes are carefully prepared in accordance with our philosophy: yin yang balance and seasonally appropriate eating. Our menu is more than just fine dining – it’s also healthy dining.”

Chef Tam believes foods contain different elements that can support the body’s basic functions. Eating healthily and being mindful of the time of year, climate and available ingredients gives people a greater chance to feel fit and well all year round.

“Autumn in Southern China is when the weather becomes drier, less humid. We need moister food to counteract the changing conditions. The perfect foods for autumn are mildly nourishing and slightly warming, but tend not to have really strong flavors.”

“This is a sea conch, caught locally,” says Tam, presenting a foot-long, pointed and convoluted sea snail with a pale green shell.

The flesh inside is peach-colored. “The meat is very sweet. Conch is popular in the South of China but is very much a deluxe product.”

Tam makes sure nothing is wasted from this special creature: “If we have a large conch like this, we make two dishes. We take the meat out, peel and slice it, then stir fry. We use the skin for double-boiled soup.”

Tam has created a delicious soup, perfect

「誉珑轩」行政总厨谭国锋在谈到餐厅理念 时表示 ： 「我们竭尽所能让顾客舒服自在， 像是以各种对健康有益的食材入菜方面， 我们便下了极大的功夫。在我们餐厅，任 何一道菜的准备功夫都马虎不得，就是希 望能展现阴阳平衡和时令餐饮等两大经营 哲学。我们的菜色不仅精致，更是健康饮 食的代名词。」 谭国锋深信，食物蕴含的不同元素可 作为人体机能运作的后盾。饮食健康，留 心时节递换及气候转变，适度食用季节食 材都有助身心平衡，让人整年维持在最佳 状态。「时序进入秋天，中国南部潮湿天 候逐渐远离、变得干燥，需要适时多摄取 饱含水分的食材。营养丰富、略微温热且 味道适中的食材最适合于秋天品尝。」

Lobster with Rice in Superior Broth 浓汤龙虾泡饭

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sponsored feature

Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung 中菜行政总厨谭国锋

for the changing season, by adding chicken stock and sliced ginger to the conch meat.

“We use ginger to make the soup a little warming. We keep it simple – no serious herbs or seasonings, just the natural seafood flavor, a slight meaty back-taste from the chicken and some ginger to lift it. Great for balancing the body’s condition.”

Conch is one of many treasures swimming around near the coast of Southern China, where the fresh waters of the Pearl River estuary dilute the deep salty ocean. “In the old days people sat on the steam boat between Hong Kong and Macau for hours, just so they could buy our local crabs and carry them home in their bamboo baskets.

The taste of Macau crab is natural and succulent – the waters are rich in feed for the fish and this gives a juicy quality to the meat.

We have lionhead fish too which you can find in the wet markets here. They are expensive, but the flavor and texture of them is something you will never forget! And then there are the prawns. South China Sea prawns have great texture – both tender and chewy.

Nowadays there is a focus on farmed food and fish, but I don’t agree with it. I prefer natural, wild-caught food. It tastes better.”

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South China Sea prawns are the main focus of another of Tam’s autumn dishes. A lacy basket made from translucent rice flour holds pink prawns, shiny walnuts studded with tiny sesame seeds, and gleaming chive shoots. This beautiful dish has a fresh and delicious aroma. Made with local produce, it’s light-flavored yet deeply satisfying.

“Prawns are a good source of protein,” says Tam. “The combination of fish and chives is naturally warming. Chives come from the garlic family and are reputed to defend against cold, bacteria and germs. As for walnuts – well, the Chinese believe that they are a healing food, good for the brain and kidneys. We toast the walnuts with some brown sugar in the wok, then fry them for two minutes. When you roast nuts with a little brown sugar it makes them more nourishing for the body. Perfect for autumn!”

Chef Tam summarizes Jade Dragon’s cooking philosophy: “It is better to eat right on a daily basis than to wait until you get sick and rely on medicines. Daily consumption of good, nourishing food will balance your body’s condition. Choosing the right food for the season should help keep you healthy throughout the year.”

总厨拿起了只长约一尺的响螺、螺壳 外突、呈盘旋状，带着白绿色泽，螺肉颜 色则像蜜桃般娇嫩。他说 ： 「螺肉很甜，在 中国南部算是很受欢迎的顶级食材。」 在 「誉珑轩」，这般大小的海螺通常会做成两 道菜，一道把肉取出、去皮切片后下锅爆炒， 皮则放于炖汤，物尽其用。 为了迎合季节变换，谭国锋使用螺肉、 鸡汤及姜片熬煮独门汤品，美味非常。他 也大方分享制作秘诀 ： 「姜可让汤喝起来较 暖，除此之外一切简单至上，无须添加特 别的药草或调味品，便能喝得到海鲜的原 味，另外在姜的提味下，还尝得到些许鸡 肉香甜的余韵，对于身体状况平衡大有益 处！」 中国南部沿海地区与珠江交会，偏咸 的海水受到稀释，孕育出许多近海珍馐， 海螺便是其中之一。「以前有不少人习惯 搭蒸气船往返港澳，花上数小时就是为了 采买我们当地的螃蟹，再用竹篓整笼带回。 澳门蟹滋味天然、水分饱满，且拜此区水 中生物繁多所赐，栖息的鱼类肥美，肉质 多汁。这里的生鲜湿货市场也找得到狮头 鱼，虽然价格不菲，但味道及肉质让人一 试难忘！南中国海出产的明虾也绝对不能 错过，软嫩中带有嚼劲，口感极佳。现在 许多养殖食物或鱼类大行其道，但我总无 法苟同，还是偏爱天然、野生捕捉的食材， 吃起来滋味更足。」 韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾正是谭国锋 秋季菜单中的另一个亮点。红粉的明虾、带 有亮泽的合桃，缀以芝麻及透亮的葱芽，置 于糯米粉制成的花边透明篮篓中，相当别致， 散发清新且诱人的香气。使用的俱是地方农 产食材，口味清淡，却让人一尝倾心。 谈到这道菜，谭国锋表示 ： 「花竹虾富 含蛋白质，另外鱼肉加上细葱有天然温热 的效果。细葱与大蒜系出同门，都有祛寒、 遏止细菌及病毒的功效。至于合桃，中国 人视为具疗效的食材，对于大脑及肾脏特 别好。我们在铁锅中加入合桃及些许黑糖 烘烤，再拌炒两分钟即可。坚果类加点黑 糖过烤，有助释放出对人体有营养的成分， 正是秋季菜式的不二之选！」 总结「誉珑轩」的餐饮理念， 谭国锋说： 「相较于病起求医，每天的正确饮食显得更 为重要。摄取品质良好、营养丰富的食物对 于保持身心健康平衡极有裨益。顺应时节吃 的好、吃的对，可保经年健康无虞。 」

Double-boiled Sea Conch with Dried Longan, Yam and Wolfberry 桂圆淮杞炖响螺

Stir-fried Sea Prawns with Walnut and Garlic Chives 韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾

Curry Crab Tartlets 咖哩蟹肉批 Roasted Chorizo with Toasted Bread and Thyme 燒葡国腸配香草多士 Sauteed Broad Beans and Black Sausage with Tomato & Coriander 葡国黑血腸炒扁豆 Stewed Chicken Giblets with Beer 葡式啤酒烩鸡杂

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sponsored feature

葡轩推出全新菜单 海中美味应有尽有

savor the sea

At Galaxy Macau’s Gosto, Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil’s new menu showcases the fabulous seafood of Portugal.

™」葡轩 (Gosto) 总厨马俊杰自 「 “Portugal is famous for its seafood,” 豪表示 ： 「葡萄牙靠海，海岸线绵长，海鲜 says Gosto Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil. 也赫赫有名，造就葡萄牙菜别于其他欧陆 “It’s a seaside country with a lot of shore料理，独树一格的美味。海鲜正是我们全 line and I think that is what distinguishes 新系列菜色的聚焦所在。」 Portuguese from other European cuisines. 马俊杰于 2013 年 4 月接掌葡轩后，无 The new menu will really focus on that.” 时不在构思于 10 月下旬即将推出的全新 Since taking over at Galaxy 菜色。菜单概想将有如故事书一 Macau™’s Gosto in April 2013, 般，有传统葡式料理、当代 Chef Mario has been busy 葡澳美味，也有集两派之 designing a new menu, 长的全新融合菜色，知名 set to be launched in 葡萄牙海鲜料理几乎全 late October. It will 员到齐。如此丰盛的海 showcase traditional 鲜飨宴，要总厨从中挑 Portuguese dishes, 出自己所爱可真是难倒 current Macanese 他了。 favorites, and modern 马总厨笑着说 ： 「没 twists on both. Plenty of 有什么最爱的啦！不过鱼 Portugal’s famous seafood 类料理千变万化，一直是我爱 dishes are included. 用的食材，着实能够大展身手。 “I do like to work with fish Traditional Potato Soup 处理鱼类需要细工，没两把刷 – it is very versatile, you can do with Green Cabbage 子可做不来，得要全神贯注才 so much with it,” he says. “I love and Chorizo Oil 行。处理或蒸煮过度都可能会 the fact that it is very delicate 葡国薯蓉青菜汤 令鱼的鲜味尽失。」 and demanding to work with, 说到葡萄牙海鲜，绝对不 so you really have to focus. If 能漏掉的就是无所不在的国民食材马介休 you overwork it or overcook it, the flavors (bacalhau)，也正是马总厨的拿手食材之一。 disappear.” 在新菜单上你能找到包括马介休球佐鸡心 It’s impossible to talk about Portuguese 豆沙拉等多种马介休美食。 马总厨表示 ： seafood without mentioning the ubiquitous 「马介休球和鸡心豆沙拉都是常见的前菜， bacalhau, and a variety of salted cod dishes 但甚少放在一起上桌。我这次用现代手法 feature on the new menu, including Deep 将两者融合，以崭新风貌上桌，却又丝毫 Fried Cod Fish Balls with Chickpea Salad. 不减彼此的风味。 」 “These are usually served as two individual september 2013

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Deep Fried Cod Fish Balls with Chickpea Salad

Seafood Stew in a cataplana

炸马介休球配鸡心豆沙拉

葡萄牙特级海鲜煲

「在葡萄牙，以马介休为食材的料理 之多，一时半刻都说不完。如果身在国外， 要端出地道的葡式料理的话，一定少不了 马介休，我们都称它为『最好的朋友』。」 走遍澳门各地的葡式餐厅，几乎都能 看到马介休的踪影，但为了配合当地饕客 的口味，马总厨于准备过程中有稍做调整。 「味道太咸本地人吃不习惯，所以我小调了 一下，做出本地饕客喜欢的口味。一般作 法是让马介休在水中浸超过 48 小时，以略 减咸味 ；但在我们餐厅时间拉更长，才不 会那么咸，有时会到 50 甚或 52 小时，但 再过可就不行了，味道可能会跑掉。」

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以传统半球形铜锅炖煮而成的经典葡 式 美 味「 葡 萄 牙 特 级 海 鲜 煲 (cataplana)」 也是新菜单上的一大亮点。 「海鲜煲集各式海洋美味精华于一身， 包括蛤蛎、淡菜、明虾及三种鱼类。通常 是放在一起炖煮，但为了保留个别食材的 美味，我特别分开处理后再组合上桌，尝 得到鱼肉的鲜美，也吃得出淡菜的滋味。 一起煮的话味道容易混淆，剩下的只有强 烈的海鲜味道。但在我们餐厅，各种美味 尽能品尝。」 总厨也特别推荐烤肉肠、鸡杂及咖喱 蟹等葡萄牙风味小菜 “pesticos”。 马总厨特

别说到，咖喱蟹可视为自己对传统葡澳料 理的个人诠释 ： 「调味较为清淡，正可品尝 螃蟹的美味，咖喱味过重反而容易喧宾夺 主。」 马俊杰虽然初来乍到，但葡轩的厨师 团队却是他最坚实的后盾。团队成员对于 新菜单投注的心力让他赞赏不已，他说： 「特 别像葡式小菜这种新概念，他们也都能全 力以赴。」 「我常鼓励旗下厨师要把重点放在味道 上，试着去品尝食物。再三品尝，力臻完美。 我们有新菜单、崭新菜色即将上桌，我们 准备好了！」

starters. I combine them and present them in a more modern way,” says Chef Mario. “But the flavors are all still there.”

“In Portugal we say we have 1,001 recipes for bacalhau. If you are outside of Portugal and you are representing Portuguese cuisine, then you must have bacalhau on the menu. We call it our best friend.”

Chef Mario alters the preparation slightly to suit local tastes. “Here diners don’t like things quite so salty, so I have adapted to suit the local palette,” he says.

“Usually bacalhau rests in water for 48 hours to lessen the salt content, but here we have to leave it in for longer so that it is not as salty. Sometimes we leave it in for 50 to 52 hours, but it can’t be much more than that or you really lose the flavor.”

The new menu also features his country’s classic cataplana, a robust seafood stew cooked in a traditional domed copper vessel.

“The cataplana combines everything our shore gives us – clams, mussels, prawns, and three different types of fish. Typically it’s a stew, but I cook everything separately and then combine it all in order to maintain all the individual flavors. The fish will taste like fish, the mussels will taste like mussels.

If you put everything in together, flavors get lost and you may only taste the strongest seafood. This way, you taste everything.”

Chef Mario is also introducing petiscos – Portuguese tapas – such as roasted chorizo, chicken giblets, and curry crab. “This is my interpretation of the traditional Macanese dish,” Chef Mario says of the crab. “The flavor will be a little bit lighter so that you can really taste the crab. Too much curry can really overpower this delicate flavor.”

Although Chef Mario is new to Gosto, he has a supportive team of chefs behind him. “My team here is really committed to this new menu,” he says. “I encourage my chefs to focus on the flavors and to taste and taste and taste again. We have new dishes, a new menu, and we’re ready to present the best of Portugal.”

“If you are outside of Portugal and you are representing Portuguese cuisine, then you must have bacalhau on the menu. We call it our best friend.”

Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil

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蓝色狂想正当时

singing the brittany blues Colorful crustaceans make a splash at Banyan Tree Macau’s Belon

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Blue lobster tartar, fragrant ginger, gourmand salad 蓝龙虾他他

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Belon Chef de Cuisine Robby Setiawan and Assistant Beverage Manager for Banyan Tree Andy Tam

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The rare BriTTany Blue loBsTers have come out of hiding and Belon Chef de Cuisine Robby Setiawan is taking full advantage of their bravado. “September and October are the only months to catch them,” he says. “By November, they’ve disappeared for another year.”

Lobsters are usually a motley mix of green and brown, but these Brittany Blues have a distinct blue tint and are prized for being sweeter and tastier than their Boston counterparts. “The blue lobster is much richer in flavor,” Robby says. “You can taste the ocean.”

To showcase the rich distinct flavor of these prize lobsters, Chef Robby has created a set menu featuring fresh tartar, lobster bisque, and a beef spare rib ‘surf ‘n’ turf.’

For those who prefer their lobster straight up, steamed or grilled whole lobsters can be selected from the carving trolley.

The indigo-tinged beauties are best paired with Krug champagne, advises Andy Tam, Assistant Beverage Manager for Banyan Tree Macau. “This Krug is non-vintage and has been aged in the bottle for six years,” he says.

“It makes the flavors much more intense.

Grilled lobster really brings out the smoky charcoal characteristics of the champagne.

It’s really perfectly paired with something so delicate.”

“Lobster doesn’t have to be difficult to work with,” says Robby. “You just need to understand the lobster and respect the ingredients. If you cook it too long you will ruin the flavor and the texture and you’ll get nothing. Treat them nice, and they will be good to you!”

Beef spare rib, surf n turf, sauteed potato, kenya bean, stuffed tomato 香烤蓝龙虾拼美国牛子骨

九月和十月是蓝龙虾每年仅有的两个月捕 捞期，相当珍贵。总厨石志云就说 ： 「到了 十一月龙虾便会消失无踪，直到隔年才又 出现。」因此他打算好好把握难得的蓝龙虾 盛产季，大展身手。 龙虾通常是绿色及棕色混杂，但蓝龙 虾一如其名，带着显眼的青蓝色泽，也因 肉质较波士顿龙虾来得鲜甜美味而大受饕 客喜爱。 石志云形容 ： 「味道非常丰富， 吃得到来自大海的新鲜美味。」 为了让饕客品尝蓝龙虾的各式美味， 总 厨 特 别 打 造 全 新 餐 单， 包 括 新 鲜 龙 虾 他 他、 龙 虾 浓 汤 及 搭 配 牛 肋 排 的 海 陆 料 理。 偏 好 品 尝 全 龙 虾 的 客 人， 也 可 从 桌

边 烹 调 车 选 择 清 蒸 或 烧 烤 全 虾， 大 快 朵 颐一番。 蓝 龙 虾 的 餐 酒 搭 配 也 马 虎 不 得， 悦 榕庄餐饮部副经理 Andy Tam 便大力推荐 法国顶级香槟 Krug ： 「这支酒是不记年香 槟，陈酿大概六年，味道非常浓纯。烧烤 龙虾正好诱发出香槟酝酿的烟熏焦炭风味。 Krug 与肉质细嫩的龙虾可说是天作之合。」 总厨也大方分享料理龙虾的心得 ： 「烹 煮龙虾也可以很简单，重点是要对龙虾有 通彻了解，并充分发挥好自己手中的食材。 若烹煮时间过长，食材便会失去了其味道 及口感。反之，对食材好一点，他们将会 以最佳姿态呈现，给你最大的回报！」 september 2013

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海中珍宝

Treasures of the Sea Six delicious underwater wonders, imported to Hong Kong from around the world by Classic Fine Foods

september 2013

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靜待伯樂

S low Burner Goose Barnacles 鹅颈藤壶

The goose barnacle, with its distinctive rings of black

鹅颈藤壶坚硬、类似骨头的壳上绕着多个

around a hard, bone-like shell, has been described as looking

黑色环圈，甚至有人以恐龙脚来形容其独

like a dinosaur’s claw. Found stubbornly attached to rocks and

特造型。鹅颈藤壶栖息于巴塞隆纳沿岸海

flotsam off the coast of Barcelona, they must be collected by

域，顽强吸附在岩石或船只残骸上，因此

hand, sometimes at great hazard in the crashing surf. Even

仅能以人力采集，碰到海浪来势凶猛时，

after being rinsed, scrubbed, packed in ice, and then shipped

作业环境也变得相当险峻。经过冲洗、刷揉、

by air, many arrive at kitchens still clinging to the rocks on

冰库装箱，即便最后空运到餐厅，许多鹅

which they were found.

颈藤壶仍紧紧依附于石头上。

Goose barnacles have been enjoyed in Spain and

西班牙人及葡萄牙人食用鹅颈藤壶已

Portugal for centuries, where they are boiled in salt water and

有数百年历史，通常是以盐水汆烫后作为小

eaten as tapas, with the tubular skin peeled back to reveal

菜享用。去掉管状外皮，就能看到弹牙且口

the springy, stretchy pink neck meat. The harder outside

感扎实的粉色颈肉，拿着坚硬的外壳可将颈

shell is left on as a useful handle for dipping in aioli, a type of

肉佐以普罗旺斯蒜味酱汁「aioli」食用。

garlicky Provençal sauce.

鹅颈藤壶虽然在西班牙很受欢迎，但

While the Spanish might know when they are on to

在其他国家的回响却是相当两极。虽然一

a good thing, international acceptance has been mixed.

度被捧为高级餐饮界的新星，但似乎仍走

Once touted as the next big thing in upscale dining, goose

不出伊比利半岛。但近几年在高级食材批

barnacles have never really caught on outside of Iberia. In

发商的推波助澜下，似乎出现了转机，不

recent years fine food wholesalers have reported an uptick in

少时尚亚洲餐厅对鹅颈藤壶的兴趣渐浓，

interest from some tonier Asian restaurants, but demand for

不过真正下手的仍是少之又少。但这样也

this underrated morsel is still criminally modest. No matter:

好 ：意味着我们有更多机会品尝这备受低

that leaves more for the rest of us.

估的美味食材。

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陽光饗宴

A � lace in the Sun Tarbouriech Oysters 生蚝

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IT Is TempTIng to dismiss the distinctive pinkish hue of the

Tarbouriech 生 蚝 的 粉 色 蚝 壳 独 树 一 格，

Tarbouriech oyster shell as nothing more than a marketing

犹如美人脸颊的一抹红晕，但拿来当作行

gimmick, a swipe of blush on a beauty queen. After all, what

销的亮点似乎仍有点勉强。毕竟单凭外

can the merest tint of pink really reveal about the flesh within?

壳的颜色难以保证蚝肉也同样粉嫩诱人，

As it happens, quite a lot.

不过打开之后却是里外如一，令人惊艳。

Tarbouriech oysters hail from Bassin de Thau, a tideless

Tarbouriech 生蚝产自法国南部大城

lagoon near Marseille in the South of France. Many other oyster

马赛附近一处水波不兴的泻湖「Bassin

farmers have their bases in these waters, but a unique farming

de Thau」。在此也有许多其他种类的生

technique makes the Tarbouriech special. At intermittent

蚝养殖场，但 Tarbouriech 生蚝却有一点

periods throughout the day, a solar-operated mechanism lifts

与众不同 ：一天当中固定时期，太阳能

the oyster frames out of the water, exposing each precious

启动的机器会将养殖架自水中升起，让

oyster to the sunshine in an attempt to recreate a natural tidal

每颗生蚝都能晒到太阳，模拟自然的潮

environment.

汐环境。

Exposure to light and oxygen forces oysters to produce

吸收阳光及氧气让生蚝产生肝

glycogen, which in turn causes the muscle to become denser

糖， 使 肉 质 结 实， 坚 果 味 更 为 浓 郁。

and “nuttier” in taste. Chefs praise the Tarbouriech for its almost

Tarbouriech 生蚝近乎弹牙的口感备受大

chewy texture. The sunshine is also responsible for adding the

厨的好评，蚝壳上的招牌玫瑰色泽也是

trademark rosy hue to each shell.

受阳光恩赐。

The benefit of this farming system is twofold: not only

此种特殊养殖技术有两种好处，一

is the taste improved, but it also breeds into the oysters a

则让美味升级，同时也加强生蚝适应环

hardiness and adaptability to environmental changes, allowing

境改变的能耐，运输途中的存活率比起

them to survive much longer in transit than ordinary oysters. A

一般生蚝高出许多。时值全球五大洲对

definite plus, considering the distances each oyster must travel

于生蚝需求遽增，能长途旅行无虞的生

to fulfill burgeoning demand in all four corners of the globe.

蚝确实是一大优势。

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深海之后

Deep Sea Diva Obsiblue Prawns 蓝虾

p r e c I o u s , c o s s e T e d a n d p e r f e c T ly f o r m e d , it is no

珍贵异常、备受青睐，各方各面均无懈可

wonder Obsiblue prawns are often referred to as the “Rolls

击，无怪乎 Obsiblue 蓝虾享有虾中「劳斯

Royce” of their species. A pretty, almost translucent blue,

莱斯」的美名。蓝虾带着近乎透明的青蓝

with a dark tail, long delicate tentacles and superb pearl grey

色泽、虾尾颜色转暗、一对虾须细致又长，

flesh, in no more than ten years they have risen from Coral

加上蕴含珍珠光泽的灰色虾肉，使其不到

Sea obscurity to become a versatile fine-dining staple. What

十年的时间便从澳洲珊瑚海默默无闻的食

triggered this ascent to superstardom?

材跃升为顶级餐厅的新宠。 Obsiblue 蓝虾

Perhaps the explanation is that Obsiblue prawns are

有何魅力短时间窜红晋升为明星食材呢？

special from the start. Farmed in low-density cages located

细列原因，第一点可能是 Obsiblue 蓝

in a pristine natural lagoon off the coast of New Caledonia

虾原本就独树一格，养殖于东澳新克里多

in Eastern Australia, the spacious living arrangements

尼亚沿岸水质纯净的泻湖，每笼仅放入少

and crystal clear waters ensure that each prawn grows

量蓝虾，让每只虾能在宽阔的环境及清澈

unstressed to full size. Growth hormones, antibiotics and

的水质中毫无压力的养殖至成年体型。生

artificial substances of any kind are banned from their

长激素、抗生素及任何人造补给物均严格

environment. As with any blossoming diva, it simply wouldn’t

禁止。蓝虾也如培养绝代女伶般，非一朝

do to rush an Obsiblue along: they are given nine leisurely

一夕可成 ：比起一般餐厅用虾子三个月的

months to reach maturity, as opposed to three for a standard

成长期，蓝虾可是有悠悠漫长九月龄的生

restaurant prawn.

长期。

To obtain Obsiblue classification, each prawn must be

每只蓝虾都需个别检查、全虾运送、

caught, individually examined, and transported as a flawless

务求完美，才够格成为 Obsiblue 的一员。

whole. The merest imperfection has them ruthlessly culled

若有一丝瑕疵便只能接受无情淘汰的命运。

from the lot.

出产的每批蓝虾都是品质保证，拥有

The result is an elegant, unblemished outer shell, and

漂亮无瑕的外壳及鲜甜、弹牙扎实并俱的

flesh with both a complex sweetness and bouncy firmness,

口感，生吃时更能体验其美妙滋味。吃过

especially when eaten raw. Once tasted, the question is not

的人必定对 Obsiblue 蓝虾身为米其林餐厅

why Obsiblue prawns are on every Michelin-star menu, but

的必备珍馐毫无疑问，只想问等候佳肴的

why it took so long .

时间为何如此天长地久！

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天然美味用途多

�eed and Reap Seaweed 海草

IT c an be drIed in the sun, baked, pan-fried, ground to

海草有上百种加工方法，晒干、烘烤、干

powder, boiled, or eaten fresh. Farmers don’t have to plant

煎、磨粉、汆烫或直接生吃。不用费心栽

it, or water it – if you are lucky enough to live near a beach,

种或浇水－幸运一点住海边的话，甚至早

you can collect it for free on your morning walk and have

上散步采一些海草回家，中午就可以当沙

it salad-ready by lunch. Nutritionists agree that it’s packed

拉享用了。海草也有营养师背书，富含多

with vitamins and essential minerals. It has a unique, natural,

种维他命及必要矿物质，味道天然、鲜甜，

sweet and salty flavor. Depending on the variety, it can offer

带有咸味，独树一格。不同种类更能为海

a unique summery kick to seafood dishes. Roasted, it has a

鲜料理带来独一无二的夏日风情。网烤处

wonderful savory flavor.

理则会散发扑鼻的开胃香气。

It’s versatile, healthy and delicious. If you’re not already in the habit of rejoicing at the joys of seaweed, it’s time to start.

Most edible types of seaweed can be broadly divided

现在开始还不晚。

into three categories: brown, green and red. Brown seaweeds,

绝大部分食用海草可分为三类 ：棕海

like Wakame, hail from temperate and arctic waters and are a

草、绿海草及红海草。前者类似日本人常

common element of Japanese cooking.

吃的「Wakame」海菜，生长于北极圈较

Green seaweeds, sometimes known as sea lettuce, include varieties such as Kombu Breton and Kombu Royal.

为温暖的海域，为日式料理常见的食材。 绿海草有时称为海白菜，包括布瑞顿

Also a core ingredient of Japanese cuisine, green seaweeds

(Breton) 昆 布 及 皇 家 (Royal) 昆 布 等 多 个

are used to add extra texture to soups and salads, and that

种类。日式料理常用昆布为汤品或沙拉增

certain savory flavor the Japanese call “Umami” or the “fifth

添味道，此一独到风味日本人称为「鲜味

flavor.”

(Umami)」或「第五味」。

In the red corner are seaweeds that are slightly sweeter

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海草用途百变、美味，对健康极有益 处。还没习惯吃海草、大啖海草美味的人，

相较之下，红海草较甜，常烘干食用，

and often eaten crispy and dry. Dulse, a champion grower

口感酥脆。生长于大西洋及太平洋北岸的

found on the northern shores of the Atlantic and Pacific

品种「Dulse」品质一流，冰岛人习惯和着

Oceans, is used in Iceland in the place of tortilla chips, or

玉米饼，或沾一大层奶油温温的吃，也算

eaten warm and slathered in butter. Not bad for a weed.

物尽其用了。

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法国制造

French Connection Brittany Sea Urchin 布列塔尼海胆

ThIs sea urchIn’s journey begins in the cool waters around

法国布列塔尼沿岸某处突出半岛邻近的

a peninsula jutting off the coast of Brittany, France. The

冷 水 海 域， 是 为 此 种 海 胆 旅 程 的 起 点。

commune of Quiberon is famous not only for urchins, but also

Quiberon 行 政 区 有 名 的 不 仅 是 海 胆， 也

as the spiritual home of a frequently overlooked contribution

是罐装沙丁鱼的故乡，虽鲜为人所知，却

to world cuisine: the tinned sardine. In the early 19th century,

是全球餐饮文化中不可或缺的要角之一。

Quiberon was the home of a brilliant French chemist called

十九世纪曾居住於 Quiberon 的聪明法国化

Nicolas Appert, who revolutionized the way the world eats

学家 Nicolas Appert 首创以煮沸的密闭锡

with his technique of preserving fish by placing it in boiled,

罐保存鱼肉，为世界饮食历史带来革命性

airtight tins.

的影响。

By contrast, the local method of collecting urchins is still

相较之下，当地采集海胆的方式仍然

decidedly low-tech. With its white shell beaches, salty sea

相当原始。 优美的白沙滩、咸味海风及怀

breezes and charming ancient fishing villages, Quiberon in the

古风情的渔村景致，让 Quiberon 在夏日时

summer months is a laid-back seaside resort. But come winter,

光里成为悠闲的海边度假圣地。但时序进

as the sea breezes turn to icy winds straight off the Bay of

入冬天， 比斯开湾吹来的海风冰寒彻骨，

Biscay, the hardy Quiberonnais foot fishermen get to work.

却正是当地吃苦耐劳的渔夫们开始工作的

October to April is sea urchin season, and a select few local fishermen are permitted to collect, by hand, a strictly

时节。 十月到四月为海胆产季，仅有少数获

enforced quota of the creatures. Licenses are difficult to

准的渔夫得以用双手采集为数有限的海胆。

obtain and easy to lose. Few fishermen risk their livelihood

采集证照不仅难以取得，一不小心更会失

for the sake of a few extra Euros.

There is a marvelous French expression that references the sea urchin’s sharp defensive spines and is used to describe someone who is tight-fisted with his money: “Il a des oursins

去采集资格，少有渔夫愿意为了多赚那几 块钱卖命下海。 法文中有句话以海胆尖锐的刺骨为譬 喻，用以形容人一毛不拔可说是活灵活现 ：

dans les poches!” (He has urchins in his pockets!) Such dining

「Il a des oursins dans les poches!( 他口袋

companions are best avoided if you wish to order Brittany

中有海胆 )」，要找这种人去餐厅大啖布列

sea urchins. With a distinctively tangy yet smooth flavor

塔尼海胆的话，可要三思。海胆味道浓呛

like nothing else from the sea, they continue to command a

却又滑顺，找不到其他海鲜与之比拟，不

handsome fee everywhere they go.

管在哪品尝可都所费不赀。

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吓人外表 极致美味

Armed and Delicious Scorpion Fish 天蝎鱼

The name ITself inspires trepidation – is it really worth

天蝎鱼一如其名，让人听来心生畏惧，真有

experimenting with the flesh of such a creature for the sake

需要为了尝鲜拿这种高难度的鱼类来开刀

of an original seafood experience? Fiercely orange, slimy, and

吗？天蝎鱼的橘红色泽挑衅意味十足，加上

armed with savage-looking teeth and venom-covered spikes,

黏滑的身躯、血盆大口内的锋利牙齿以及含

its appearance isn’t exactly welcoming. The roe and internal

有剧毒的尖刺，确实叫人退步三舍。天蝎鱼

organs are deadly poisonous. Some species in the scorpion

卵及内脏满是致命剧毒，同科鱼类下更有数

fish family have been uninvitingly described as the “world’s

种名列「全球最致命」排行榜，再怎么想都

deadliest” fish. Hardly a gourmet’s delight.

难以和老饕的盘中美味划上等号。

But to dismiss the scorpion fish too quickly is to miss the point that in this case, the end may in fact justify the means.

Caught by line from the depths of tropical or temperate

70

但可别急着下定论，说不定最后会出 现意想不到的结果。 天蝎鱼一般以延绳捕捞，它们栖息在

seas, particularly off the coasts of Eastern Australia and

东澳及西班牙沿海热带或温热的深海海域，

Spain, its finely-grained white flesh is tender and juicy,

白色的鱼肉纹理细致、软嫩多汁，不油不柴、

not too oily and not too dry. It is firm and robust enough

肥瘦间隔得宜。天蝎鱼质地扎实、风味独具，

to make an excellent ingredient in just about any dish,

搭配各式料理都有水准以上的表现，除了

holding up particularly well in pasta, but doing just as nicely

拌制意大利面外，香煎处理也非常美味。

pan-fried. Scorpion fish is flavorsome and slightly sweet,

天蝎鱼味道丰富、带些许甜味，与石斑一

not unlike grouper, never so brash as to overpower more

样能与他种细嫩食材调和，交汇彼此。总

delicate ingredients. In short, a scorpion fish tastes a lot more

的来说，天蝎鱼虽然外表吓人，但吃来让

welcoming than it looks, and it’s the perfect fish for a chef to

人惊艳，对于欲大展身手的大厨们，也是

use to demonstrate his or her skills.

能一显高超技巧的绝佳食材。

So don’t let the spikes scare you away. Or if you do

所以可别让满身尖刺给吓跑了！或真

decide to play it safe and toss the scorpion fish into the too-

觉得难度太高、只求安全过关的话，拿走

challenging basket, just make sure you’re wearing protective

天蝎鱼的时候可千万记得戴着手套，别受

gloves.

伤了。

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menu



Dining out on Mondays is usually a lowkey affair – that is, unless you are booked

Amuse-bouche 开胃小点



to enjoy dinner at Mirror Restaurant with

Tarbouriech Oysters with Orange and Lemon Citrus Emulsion Tarbouriech 生蚝佐香橙及柠檬柑橘乳沫

a group of Asia’s best chefs and gourmet delicacy importers. For this dinner, TK teamed up with Classic Fine Foods to set Mirror’s

Appetizers 开胃前菜



head chef, Jeremy Biasiol, a unique challenge:

Obsiblue Three Ways Obsiblue 蓝虾三吃

to create an original menu using some of

Marinated and raw, with caviar

the ocean’s most treasured offerings. Did

调味生蓝虾佐鱼子酱

he rise to the challenge? See for yourself.

In a cocktail, revisited Mirror style 经典 Mirror 鸡尾酒​​虾 Pan seared with mushrooms and sauce from the head

创意海鲜盛宴

mirror menu

虾头酱汁及蘑菇煎烧蓝虾



Cauliflower Royal 皇家白花菜 Cauliflower puree, Quiberon sea urchins and seaweed 白花菜茸、Quiberon 海胆及海草

周一出门用餐的客人通常较为低调，但若是和 亚洲一流大厨及美食进口商在「Mirror」法式

Fish course 鲜鱼套餐

餐厅有约，可就另当别论了。由 TK 和顶级食材 代理商「Classic Fine Foods」共同举办的主厨



Red Brittany Spiny Lobster 布列塔尼红龙虾

晚宴，给了「Mirror」行政主厨 Jeremy Biasiol

Served with eggplant caviar, tomato confit,

一道难题 ：运用海中珍馐打造一系列原创菜

sauce au Comté, and goose barnacles

色。主厨表现如何，就留待看倌们自行评判了。

佐圆茄鱼子酱、油封蕃茄、法式康提酱及鹅颈藤壶



Scorpion Fish 天蝎鱼 Stuffed and oven roasted with fennel, onions, potatoes and saffron-coconut sauce 镶料佐茴香、洋葱、马铃薯及蕃红花 - 椰子酱香烤 Dessert 甜点



Mirror Chocolate and Raspberries Pie with Seaweed Chantilly Mirror 特制巧克力及覆盆子派佐海草奶油霜

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







 september 2013

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73

presented by

闪烁的星光

shooting stars Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque Champagnes pair beautifully with Chef Pino Lavarra’s creative caviar menu.

D o c a v i a r a n D c h a m pa g n e make the best

鱼子酱与香槟是否真为天生一对？若是

gourmet match ever? When the Champagne is

「 巴 黎 之 花 」 的「 花 漾 年 华 」 香 槟 加 上

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque and Tosca Director

「Tosca」意大利餐厅总监洛卫华悉心准备

Pino Lavarra is preparing the caviar, the answer

的鱼子酱，答案绝对是百分之百肯定。顶

is a yes and an anticipatory sigh of pleasure: it’s

级餐酒美馔，定让饕客惊呼两者为「天作

a match made in heaven.

之合」。

At the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s Tosca,

香港丽思卡尔顿酒店「Tosca」意大

Chef Pino’s latest degustation menu showcases

利餐厅总监洛卫华推出全新菜单，一展四

a selection of the kings of caviar, paired with

款帝王级鱼子酱的极致美味，搭配精选「巴

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque 2004 and Belle

黎之花」的「花漾年华 2004 年份香槟」

Epoque Rosé 2004 Champagnes.

及「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」享用。

The flavors of Chef Pino’s dishes progress

洛卫华主厨的全套菜色口味由淡转

from mild and delicate to powerful and savory

浓，从细致温和到浓郁美味，从开胃菜到

and they are accompanied by the Belle Epoque

最后一道都能搭配「花漾年华」香槟享用，

Champagnes from first course to last.

相得益彰。

The 2004 Belle Epoque wines exhibit all

从细致花香、优雅的酒体结构、水果

the qualities for which the label is famous: a

韵味到「巴黎之花」晶莹剔透的质感，所

floral bouquet, elegant structure, hints of fruit,

有与众不同之处都在这款 2004 年「花漾

and crystal-clear expression of the Perrier-Jouët

年华」香槟上展露无遗，酿酒大师 Hervé

style. Cellar Master Hervé Deschamps calls it a

Deschamps 甚至以「多重感官飨宴」来

“multi-sensorial” style of wine.

形容，独特风格可见一斑。

“When you eat caviar something special is

「Tosca」 餐 厅 经 理 Francesco Del

happening, so you want the same concept for

「品尝鱼子酱时，味蕾出现 Gaudio 说道 ：

the wine,” says Tosca Manager Francesco Del

奇妙的美味变化，选用的酒也希望能有此

Gaudio. “Champagne is usually used to open a

一魔力。香槟常用来当开胃酒享用，但若

meal, but this level of Champagne is amazing

是「花漾年华」此种顶级香槟，整顿晚宴

to drink with the whole dinner. Caviar and

下来都是最佳配角。鱼子酱和香槟的搭配，

Champagne is the best match ever.”

真可说是无懈可击。」

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presented by perrier-Jouët

With this classic dish, Chef Pino uses mild-flavored white sturgeon caviar. The light, subtle flavors of the dish find their perfect complement in the crystal-clear floral notes of the Belle Epoque 2004. The Chardonnay in Perrier-Jouët’s blend provides a mineral backbone; Pinot Noir adds complexity; and the effervescent delicacy of the Champagne makes this an ideal pairing. 在这道经典意大利料理中，洛卫华使用较为温和的白鲟鱼鱼子酱，淡雅细致的味道与 2004 年「花漾 年华」香槟的清澈花香相辅相成。「巴黎之花」这款混酿美酒中以夏多内葡萄的矿物质风味为基底， 另用黑皮诺增添了丰富层次。香槟令人雀跃的美味口感，与鱼子酱可说是天生绝配。

Potatoes Focaccia with Mimosa Egg 意大利马铃薯香草面包，酿鸡蛋 White Sturgeon Caviar, Gold Leaves and Lemon Sour Cream White Sturgeon 鱼子酱，金叶和柠檬酸奶 TrAdITIoN: WHITE STurGEoN 传统鱼子酱 : 白鲟鱼

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Red prawns, caviar, sea tiramisu and sea scallops are combined to create an explosion of flavor in Sea Tiramisu, Chef Pino’s signature dish. “The prawns are Italian,” he says, “and with the Adriatic sturgeon, this dish takes us back to Italy.” The salty sea flavors are balanced by the sparkling citrus notes of the Belle Epoque Champagne, and the golden wine and red-accented dish make for an elegant pair. 主厨的招牌菜食材有红虾、鱼子酱、海 鲜提拉米苏及海扇贝，所有美味精华于 味蕾一次爆发，让人大呼过瘾。「红虾 是从意大利进口的，加上意大利亚得里 亚海鲟鱼鱼子酱，让料理充满浓浓的意 式风情。」「花漾年华」香槟的柑橘气息 正好调和海鲜的咸味，亮金色泽的香槟 加上红艳诱人的海鲜，搭配的优雅大器， 魅力凡人无法挡。 Sea Tiramisu: Mediterranean Red Prawns Carpaccio with Rice Crackers 地中海生红虾薄片配米饼 Da Vinci Adriatic Caviar and Sea Foam Da Vinci Adriatic 鱼子酱和海洋泡沫 dA VINCI: AdrIATIC STurGEoN dA VINCI AdrIATIC 鱼子酱 - 亚得里亚海鲟鱼

The almond, herbs and sea aromas of this pasta salad blend alluringly 2004. The almond cream plays sweet counterpoint to the caviar and the

Warm Spaghetti with Caviar de Venise, Chives and Seaweed Venise 鱼子酱配暖意大利面， 细香葱和海藻

Champagne helps light up all the wonderful flavors that are layered above

CAVIAr dE VENISE: SIbErIAN STurGEoN

the spaghetti base. “It’s a perfect marriage,” says Chef Pino.

VENISE 鱼子酱 – 西伯利亚鲟鱼

with the delicate, peonies and red fruits bouquet of the Belle Epoque Rosé

意大利面沙拉的杏仁、草本及海洋风味，佐以「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」， 牡丹及鲜红水果交错的细腻韵致，十分诱人。杏仁奶油的香甜与鱼子酱的 滋味相互调和，香槟入口更让意大利面的独特口感与滋味更上一层楼，真 的就像洛卫华所说的 ： 「配的恰恰好。」

presented by perrier-Jouët

For this dish, Chef Pino renders autumn radishes with a Champagne and caviar sauce. “The radish is quite sweet so it balances well with the briny taste of the caviar, and it goes perfectly with the poached lobster,” he says. The nutty, buttery flavor of the Russian caviar is pierced by the light acidity of the Belle Epoque Rosé 2004, and the flavors of dish and Champagne alike linger silkily on the palate.

Poached Lobster Tail with Chervil Root Puree 水煮龙虾尾，山萝卜蓉 Baby Salad Leaves and Royal Oscietra Caviar Sauce 皇家奥赛佳鱼子酱和沙拉 oSCIETrA royAl: ruSSIAN STurGEoN 皇家奥赛佳鱼子酱 – 俄罗斯鲟鱼

使用上好的秋季山萝卜，佐以香槟及鱼子酱汁调味，洛卫华介绍「山萝卜 味道香甜，正可中和鱼子酱的咸味，也是水煮龙虾的最佳拍档。 」俄罗斯 鲟鱼的核果味及奶香在「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」的细微酸度衬托下， 显得恰到好处不腻口。餐点与香槟交融的美妙滋味如丝般柔顺，萦绕于味 蕾上，久久不散。

Available until 23 December. 鱼子酱套餐供应至12月23日。 july 2013

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kitchen conversations

天马行空海味鲜

fishy business Dot Cod Executive Chef Arron Rhodes searches the globe for the best seafood, and has plenty of interesting ideas about what to do with it when he finds it.

Pan-roasted arctic char, white dune asparagus, cauliflower, peas and mint, tendrils and quinoa 烤北极鲑鱼，白芦笋，花椰菜， 豌豆，薄荷，卷须，藜麦

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Two recTangles of juicy pink fish with crispy skin lie on a mattress of freshly shelled peas and broad beans. Crisp white asparagus tips, decorated with tendrils of slender pea shoots, stand like sentries on the plate.

Baby beetroot leaves add color. “This is Arctic char,” says DotCod Executive Chef Arron Rhodes. “The texture and flavor is somewhere between salmon and trout, with a little taste of white fish in there too.

I sourced this char from a small fishing village on a little outcrop of islands just off the east coast of Norway. As soon as the fishermen catch it, it’s on a plane to us, so it’s really fresh.”

Chef Arron is very particular about the fish he serves. “Always buy a fish whole,” he says. “Then you can see that the gills are pink, the eyes are clear and the skin is shiny.

And it should smell fresh too.” He checks all the fish that comes into the restaurant and if it doesn’t pass his test, it won’t be on the menu that day. “I’m very strict about that,” he laughs, “but I am flexible about what I buy too. If I see something really lovely and fresh, I will buy it and offer it to the guests that day. I like to surprise them.”

Arron has fun in his kitchen. He loves to experiment with new flavors and dishes which he brings to the guests as a surprise course. “I call them ‘chef snacks,’” he says.

“We have a range of special miniature dishes and glasses to serve them in, so they look really good. It’s a great way to see how customers respond to the new ideas I have.”

He describes a fish lollipop he invented, mixing tuna with white chocolate and rolling

两块方整多汁、呈粉红光泽的鱼肉外皮酥 脆，平铺于新鲜去壳的豌豆及蚕豆上。清 脆白透的芦笋尖从细嫩豆芽的盘根错节中 昂然立起，就像站哨的卫兵一般，接着再 放上一些幼甜菜根叶增添色泽。 Dot Cod 行政总厨 Arron Rhodes 表示 ： 「这是北极鲑 鱼，口感和滋味介于鲑鱼和鳟鱼之间，还 带着些许白鱼的味道。这鱼是我从挪威东 海岸的一个离海小岛渔村找来的，鱼被捕 获后立即空运直送，新鲜有保证。」 对于鱼类料理，总厨有特别的坚持， 他强调 ： 「一定要整条鱼买下来，才能看到 鱼鳃是否粉嫩、眼睛够不够清澈，并观察 鱼皮的亮泽程度，当然闻起来也一定要新 鲜才行。」每条送到餐厅的鱼他都会从头到 尾检查一番，未能通过他的法眼，自然也 上不了当日菜单。他笑着说 ： 「对新鲜我非 常有要求，至于要进什么种类的鱼我倒是 很乐意尝试。看到诱人且新鲜的食材我就 会买，当天就端上桌当成给客人的惊喜。」 Arron 在厨房总能自得其乐，喜欢试验 新的味道，出来的成果端上桌每每让客人大 呼惊喜。他透露： 「我都叫这些菜是总厨小点， 装盛于我们餐厅特别准备的各式缩小版杯盘 中，非常别致，卖相极佳，也可以当作是为 我的创意料理试水温，看看客人反应如何。 」 他以独门的鲜鱼棒棒糖为例，混搭鲔鱼及白 巧克力后，用跳跳糖卷起来，入口后绽放有 如火花般的口感，层次非常丰富。巧克力混 搭鱼肉乍听很大胆，要能搭配的恰​​到好处也 有一定难度，不过总厨可不这么认为 ： 「巧 克力搭配鱼早就不那么稀奇了。我喜欢不断 尝试，手上最新的目标是混搭爪哇和尼泊尔 两地独特的香料，我用的尼泊尔胡椒带有葡 萄柚的气味。鱼肉质地细嫩，因此要注意味 道绝对不能过重，只需一点柚香提味，就有 画龙点睛之效。 」

kitchen conversations

Miniature marzipan tomatoes, mushrooms and carrots nestle in delicious chocolate soil made from roasted raw cocoa beans. Attention to detail is amazing: Chef Rhodes has painted the underside of the mushroom with coffee to stain it darker, and uses the stamen of a tiny edible blue flower to form the stalk of the tomato. Fresh mint leaves have a faint hint of chocolate. “It’s a specially grown chocolate mint,” explains Rhodes. “If you put a little chocolate into the plant feed, it gets absorbed by the roots and makes the leaves taste a bit chocolaty. It’s the perfect garnish for this dish.” 小巧的蕃茄、蘑菇及红萝卜糕饼置身于炙烤生可 可豆做成的巧克力糊中，雕琢精细、令人赞叹： 蘑菇底层涂咖啡上色，让颜色稍暗，并取一小型 蓝色花朵的雄蕊作为蕃茄的果柄。新鲜薄荷叶散 发着一丝巧克力的气息，Arron说明：「这是特 别培育的巧克力薄荷，把少许巧克力混入肥料 中，渐渐可由根部吸收，薄荷叶尝起来会带点 巧克力香，用来装饰这道菜再完美不过了。」

Chocolate Garden 巧克力花园

the resulting creation in popping candy to produce a fireworks effect in the mouth.

Chocolate and fish may seem a bold and perhaps excessively challenging combination, but Rhodes is quick to disagree: “Chocolate with fish isn’t that unusual any more. I like to keep experimenting. At the moment I am working with exciting spices from Java and Nepal. The Nepalese pepper we use has a scent of grapefruit. Flavors must not be too heavy as fish is delicate – just a little aromatic kick, to lift it a bit.”

Light flavors are orchestrated to create a delicious crab appetizer: miniature sweet tomatoes play counterpoint to quenelles of crab meat. Salty samphire spears (also known as sea asparagus) stand in pools of avocado puree. Cubes of tart apple jelly and a foamy mound of apple mousse add fresh orchard aromas. In the centre of the plate, resting on a sesame crumble, is a tiny deepfried Japanese river crab. “I wanted the plate to look like the crab was crawling on sand,” says Arron. “You can pick the crab up and just eat it whole – like a crispy snack.”

Fish can vary within a species, depending on where they live. This presents a challenge for chefs. Sea temperature, currents, the salinity and minerality of the water all have an

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impact on the texture and flavor of the flesh.

Salmon from the waters around Alaska, or the North of Scotland, live in rough cold waters and have to swim hard to survive. They are lean and fit as a result, with firmer meat. New Zealand King salmon has a slightly easier life – and a bigger belly to match. “We use salmon from Tasmania at Dot Cod,” says Arron. “You need to take into account how you want to cook and serve it. This particular salmon was the juiciest and softest and looked the best on a plate.” Arron loves shopping around for the best the seas can produce. “We are just trying some prawns from Madagascar,” he says with great excitement. “Prawns are everywhere – but I want to find the best. These ones are really sweet and delicious – I can’t wait to introduce them on the menu. I’m always keen to try new suppliers. It’s a competitive business and new sources appear all the time.”

Choosing the right fish is just the first step to a great meal. Chef Arron elaborates: “It’s about understanding the individual ingredients in a dish – creating something with distinctive flavor and beautiful presentation. If I create a dish that someone remembers when they leave the restaurant – then my job is done.”

美味的蟹肉开胃菜则由清爽的食材组 合而成 ：小巧甜蕃茄与蟹肉丸相映成趣， 咸味珊瑚草叶 ( 或称海芦笋 ) 则立于酪梨 果泥中，一颗颗略酸的苹果冻及绵密、形 状有如小丘的苹果慕斯则增添些许水果芳 香，令人神清气爽。再往盘中一看，只见 一只小型酥炸日本河蟹安坐于芝麻碎末上。 Arron 解释 ： 「希望看起来就像螃蟹在沙中 爬动一般，顺手一抓可以整只入口，如同 吃香脆零食一样简单。」 同一种类的鱼因为栖息地不同会出现 些微差距，对厨师来说可是一大挑战。海 中温度、洋流、咸度及矿物质含量不同， 均会影响鱼肉的口感及味道。像是来自阿 拉斯加邻海或苏格兰北部等极冷海域的鲑 鱼，为了生存需要特别奋力游动，因此肉 质偏瘦、较为扎实，吃起来稍微硬一些。 纽西兰国王鲑鱼相对之下生活较为惬意， 自然鱼肚也大多了。总厨谈到自家餐厅说 ： 「我们用的是塔斯马尼亚产的鲑鱼，怎样烹 煮、如何上菜都要先在脑中沙盘推演。这 种鱼很特别，肉汁最多、吃起来也最软嫩， 摆盘特别漂亮。」Arron 钟情于海中各式食 材，遇到最棒的绝不放过。他语带兴奋表 示： 「明虾到处都有，但我只要品质最好的。 手头上现有的是马达加斯加进口的明虾， 又甜又好吃，真的等不及要放到菜单上了。 我总喜欢开发新的供应​​商，市场竞争激烈， 永远都会有新的供货来源。」 选对鱼还只是做好菜的第一步而已。 Arron 特别强调 ： 「对每道菜里面的各种食材 都要了若指掌，做出风味独树一格、摆盘精 美的佳肴。若有客人离开餐厅后还对我的料 理念念不忘的话，就代表我成功了。 」

Crab salad, brioche crouton, apple jelly, river crab, avocado crème, and homemade sun-blushed tomatoes 新鲜蟹沙拉，配以油煎法国 香脆面包粒，苹果果冻， 牛油果奶油及秘制鲜红番茄

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天作之合

classic match Cloudy Bay’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc pairs perfectly with four fresh seafood dishes – crab, lobster, oysters and abalone – prepared by four great Hong Kong chefs.

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Once a landscape dOminated by cattle and sheep farms, during the past forty years the Wairau Valley in Marlborough has become known for a more luxurious agricultural product: wine grapes. Cloudy Bay, one of New Zealand’s most storied wine companies, has been growing grapes and making wine on this fertile alluvial plain since early in the region’s development. The company takes its name from a nearby beach that was christened Cloudy Bay in 1770 by British explorer Captain Cook. In a visual tribute to the dramatic glacial ranges that provide the valley with its free draining, mineral-rich soils, Cloudy Bay features Mount Riley, one of the highest peaks in the region, on its distinctive wine bottle labels.

The company’s grape production is spread across four estate vineyards, including the original Cloudy Bay Estate on Jackson Road and five local vineyards. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the

chief varieties grown, while lesser quantities of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris are also produced. “With thirty years of grape growing and winemaking experience, Cloudy Bay has been able to focus on the vineyards and sub-regions that produce complex flavors and consistent quality,” says Cloudy Bay winemaker Nick Lane. This “blending of the highest quality” – which involves leaving out batches of wine that do not suit the company’s style – is crucial to the success of Cloudy Bay’s signature Sauvignon Blanc. “Through the art of blending, we can now make a wine with genuine complexity,” says Lane.

Sauvignon Blanc is a vigorous vine that grows exceptionally well in the Marlborough region, with its crystalline combination of clear, sunny skies and cool nights. “The fruit thrives in a cool, dry climate and produces intense flavors of citrus, tropical fruit and lifted herbaceous notes,” Lane says. That climate can, however, fluctuate unpredictably,

particularly during the October/November growing season and the picking time in frosty April. “Timing of harvest is crucial with Sauvignon Blanc,” says Lane. “Approaching harvest, we taste the grapes every day. We’re looking for a combination of ripe, tropical flavors with underlying citrus and a zesty acidity.”

Thanks to highly favorable weather that resulted in a fruit with intense flavors, 2013 was a bumper year for Cloudy Bay grape growers. “Not only will we be able to enjoy a wine with the signature aromatics,” says Lane, “but also a full-bodied wine with fantastic palate weight.”

On the following pages, Cloudy Bay’s famously crisp and focused Sauvignon Blanc is served with fresh crab, lobster, oysters and abalone, classic dishes prepared by four accomplished Hong Kong chefs. The citrus focus and mineral qualities of the Sauvignon Blanc and the fresh salty sweetness of the seafood make for a classic match.

“Through the art of blending, we can now make a wine with genuine complexity. 我们不断钻研混酿的学问，现在已可酿制 出味道繁复、质感纯正的葡萄佳酿。”

纽 西 兰 马 尔 堡 (Marlborough) 的 怀 劳 谷 (Wairau Valley) 得天独厚，大片好山好水过 往曾是牧牛及绵羊的天下，最近 40 年则成 为高附加价值的农产品「酿酒葡萄」的产 地。「云雾之湾 (Cloudy Bay)」作为首批踏 足这片肥沃冲积土地的酿酒商，多年来栽 种葡萄及酿酒，早已成为纽西兰最负盛名 的酒庄之一。 1770 年英国探险家库克船长 (Captain Cook) 初来此地，将邻近海滩称为 「云雾之湾」 ，酒庄后来也以此为名。拜冰 河山脊冲刷地形所赐，河谷土壤排水良好， 富含矿物质，「云雾之湾」所产葡萄酒酒标 上亦可见该区最高的莱利山图腾，特色鲜 明。 「云雾之湾」酒庄共有四座葡萄庄园， 包括杰克森大道上的创始庄园，以及其他 五处据点。庄园主要种植白苏维翁、夏多

内及黑皮诺三种葡萄，另还有少量 Gewürztraminer 种、 雷 司 令 及 灰 皮 诺 等。「 云 雾 之湾」酿酒师 Nick Lane 表示 ： 「酒庄累积 三十年栽种及酿酒经验，对于葡萄园及次 级区域栽植都相当得心应手，制作的葡萄 酒口味繁复，品质仍能维持不坠。」所说的 「最高品质混酿法」是去芜存菁的一个方 法，未达酒庄标准的批次都会被淘汰，造 就了「云雾之湾」备受好评的白苏维翁白 酒。Lane 说道： 「我们不断钻研混酿的学问， 现今已可酿制出味道繁复、质感纯正的葡 萄佳酿。」 白苏维翁种的葡萄藤茂密健壮，在天 气晴朗、日照充足且入夜凉爽的马尔堡长 的特别好。 Lane 自豪表示 ： 「干爽宜人的 气候特别有利水果生长，柑橘香及热带水 果味浓郁，散发草本韵味。」然而水也可覆

舟，十月 / 十一月栽植季及采收时期－结 霜的四月气候难以预测，变动极大。「白 苏维翁的采收季是决定味道的关键时期， 随采收脚步越来越近，我们几乎每天都要 品尝葡萄的味道，严格挑选蕴含柑橘及酸 味，带有热带气息的熟成葡萄。」 2013 年天公做美，经年好天气孕育了 气味浓郁的葡萄。 2013 年酒庄葡萄大为丰 收，Lane 强调 ： 「葡萄酒散发招牌迷人香 气之外，酒体也相当浓厚，入口质感极佳， 口齿留香。」 接下来香港四大名厨将分别使出拿手 绝活，搭配「云雾之湾」白苏维翁白酒著 名的舒爽及浓醇口感，端出鲜美螃蟹、龙虾、 生蚝及鲍鱼等经典美味。白苏维翁细致的 柑橘香及矿物质味和海鲜咸甜适中的鲜味 相遇时，岂是绝配两字足以形容。 september 2013

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Salt-Roasted French Crab 盐焗法国新鲜面包蟹 Prince Restaurant 王子饭店

When the lid of Executive Chef Wong’s crab casserole is lifted, an irresistible aroma rises from the salt-encrusted crustacean’s succulent meat. Sight and scent promise moist and intensely flavorful crab meat, and they do not deceive.

“We keep the crab whole, instead of cutting it into sections which risks allowing the natural flavors to escape,” says Chef Wong, describing the method he has adapted from Japanese cuisine. “This is unusual in Chinese cooking but it is also the reason why our crab is renowned for its pureness and intensity.”

As the perfect pairing for Prince’s star dish, Chef Wong selects Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc. “It is a very suitable match,” he says, “The wine has freshness and a hint of sweetness that soften the saltiness of the crab.” 厨部主管黄健仪特制的全蟹料理热腾腾上 桌。掀开砂锅，只见裹在厚厚盐层里的螃 蟹肉汁满溢，散发诱人香气。色香俱全， 味道自然也无可挑剔，温润多汁、层次相 当丰富。 为了充分展现螃蟹的美味，总厨特别向 日式料理取经 ： 「我们选择原只螃蟹烹制， 而非切分几等份，就是希望保留原味不流 失。这样做中国菜很罕见，但也因为如此， 我们的螃蟹味道鲜纯，后劲十足，大受好 评。」

Executive Chef Wong Kin Yee 厨部主管黄健仪

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苏维翁口感清爽且带有些许香甜，正好调 和螃蟹的咸味，两者简直是天作之合。」

Edmon lEong

为了衬托螃蟹美味，黄健仪精选云雾之 湾酒庄的白苏维翁为餐酒搭配。他强调： 「白

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Lobster Basil Ravioli 龙虾罗勒意大利云吞

Fish Bar at JW marriott Hotel Hong Kong 香港JW万豪酒店Fish Bar

Fish Bar guests were clamoring for a seafood pasta dish and Executive Chef Stephen doe responded by creating a hit: lobster Basil Ravioli, Fennel Puree and Chips, with lobster Sauce. Keeping things simple to bring out the lobster’s natural flavor, he lightly blanches and sautés the meat with olive oil and herbs before folding it into the ravioli with basil and a taste of mascarpone cheese. The bite of the pasta shell delays the peak pleasure for just a moment – then the rich lobster flavor floods wonderfully out into your mouth.

“After tasting the Cloudy Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc, we incorporated fennel with a puree and chips garnish, to complement the fennel flavor within the vintage,” explains Chef doe. “I think it pairs very well because it won’t overpower or complicate the wine.” 为了让每个光临 Fish Bar 的客人都能大饱 口腹之欲，一尝海鲜意大利面滋味，行政 总厨 Stephen doe 发挥巧思，端出精心创 作的美食「龙虾罗勒意大利云吞佐龙虾汁、 茴香茸及薯片」。为了保留龙虾原味，总厨 一切简单至上，虾肉稍微汆烫、以药草及 橄榄油过煎后搭配罗勒包进意大利云吞， 并加上些许马斯卡朋起司提味。吃这道菜 好戏在后头，先吃云吞外皮，龙虾精华要 一会儿才在味蕾化开，满口都是鲜甜美味。 Edmon lEong

「试过云雾之湾酒庄 2013 Stephen 说明 ： 年的白苏维翁白酒后，我们加入茴香茸和 薯片，让餐酒相互融合。茴香让酒喝来同

Executive Chef Stephen Doe

样甘醇，又不会抢味，搭配得恰到好处。 」

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Trilogy of Gillardeau Oysters on Ice 法国生蚝三重奏

oyster & Wine Bar at Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers 香港喜来登酒店蚝酒吧 White wine and oysters have been a trusted duo since the dawn of food and wine pairings. But this wonderfully simple combination isn’t as simple as it seems: chefs and sommeliers enter a world of complexity as they fine tune matches between varieties of oysters and grapes. “gillardeau oysters have a salty and crispy quality with a sweet aftertaste,” says Chef oscar Chow, who serves them three ways: with cucumber and apple; with cauliflower puree and Imperial caviar; and with salmon roe and ginger salsa.

“Cloudy Bay’s 2013 vintage is fresh and light and fruity, which is where some of the condiments enhance its qualities,” says Sommelier Ace lee. “And this Sauvignon Blanc also has a strong mineral taste – that is why the minerals in the oysters blend so well with this wine.” 从人们开始讲究餐酒搭配起，白酒和生蚝 就是最佳拍档。看似简单，里头其实是大 有学问 ：因应生蚝及葡萄种类的不同，搭 配也需不时微调，大大考验厨师和侍酒师 的功力。谈及法国 gillardeau 生蚝，总厨 周国豪形容 ： 「口感爽脆带咸，后味则有丝 鲜甜。」他以三吃展现生蚝美味 ：佐小黄瓜 及 苹 果、 佐 白 花 菜 茸 及 Imperial 鱼 子 酱， 及搭配鲑鱼卵及姜味莎莎酱。 蚝酒吧首席侍酒师李志伦解释 ： 「2013 料衬托下更别有一番风味。另外，白苏维 Chef de Cuisine Oscar Chow 总厨周国豪

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翁也有浓郁的矿物质劲道，无怪乎与生蚝 的矿物质味搭的完美无瑕。」

Edmon lEong

年的酒清爽、淡雅并带有果味，在部分佐

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Braised Abalone

蚝王扣澳州三头鲜鲍 IFC lei garden Restaurant 中环利苑 lei garden, established four decades ago, has become synonymous with both tradition and innovation and has created over a thousand dishes that have moved in and out of its repertoire through the years. From this impressive list, the famed Braised Abalone has been a consistent favorite with the restaurant’s many guests.

While the abalone is normally paired with a rich white wine to harmonize with the dish’s powerfully aromatic sauce, lei garden has broken with tradition and adapted the recipe to create a less concentrated jus for a lighter and fresher experience.

With this in mind, lei garden found in Cloudy Bay’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc a natural and delicate pairing that marries the vintage’s citrus notes with this refreshing take on its beloved seafood classic. 已有四十年历史的中环利苑向来是传统及创新融合的代名词，多年来匠心独具的创作菜色 更已超过千道。不可胜数的招牌菜之中，又以蚝王扣澳州三头鲜鲍特别受到青睐，为许多 忠实客户的首选。

Edmon lEong

因鲍鱼搭配味道鲜明的酱汁，餐酒常选用浓郁的白酒一同上桌。但利苑不走传统老路， 改良菜单烹制较为清淡的酱汁，让鲍鱼吃来更为鲜美清爽。 利苑也看上「云雾之湾酒庄 2013 年白苏维翁白酒」带着柑橘香气的雅致味道，与这道 清爽版的经典菜色一起享用，再适合不过。

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tasting notes

美食外交

culinary diplomacy Lan Kwai Fong’s Mayta restaurant flies the flag for New Peruvian Cuisine “I see thIs restaurant as a culinary embassy,” says Executive Chef Jaime Pesaque of restaurant Mayta. “Peru is an important country with diverse ingredients and strong influences from abroad.”

European, African, and Asian settlers have all influenced the Peruvian cooking style. In combination with a range of unique native ingredients, these multiple intertwined culinary traditions make for an excitingly varied and flavorful cuisine.

In recent years, international foodies have discovered Peru and, as Peruvian restaurants have opened up across the globe and top chefs raid the Peruvian repertoire for new ideas, culinary influence is spreading in the other direction.

Peru benefits from a long coastline, mountainous regions and deep jungle.

Fertile soil and a range of microclimates yield an abundance of produce. “There are more than sixty different types of fruits in the rainforest,” says Jaime. He talks enthusiastically about the sweet flavor of the giant, fruit-eating fish that live in Peru’s jungle rivers. Peru is also home to more than 3,000 varieties of potatoes, one of the world’s richest fisheries, and that nutrient-packed Andean super food, quinoa.

The classic Peruvian dish, and one of the dishes that has helped Peruvian cuisine become a worldwide hit, is ceviche. Fresh raw fish is diced and steeped in a lime juice marinade, with thinly sliced onions, salt, pepper and spicy ají. Marinating produces a refreshing, spicy, and addictively delicious

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「Mayta」行政总厨 Jaime Pesaque 自 信满满表示 ： 「这间餐厅就像秘鲁的 美食大使馆，宣扬我们丰富多元的 食材及综合异国文化而成的饮食风 格。」 秘鲁当地饮食曾受欧洲、非洲 及亚洲殖民者影响，加上国内多种 独特食材，交织而成多元的餐饮传 统，呈现的料理种类多变、口味非 常丰富。秘鲁料理近年在国际食坛 声名鹊起，成为不少老饕的新宠， 秘鲁餐厅版图也随之拓展到世界各 国。同时也有许多顶尖大厨发挥创 意，改良传统秘鲁料理，影响力也 在各地逐渐发酵。 秘鲁海岸线极长，加上大片的山 区及茂密丛林，天然资源得天独厚。 农产也拜肥沃的土壤及不同地形的微气 候所赐，非常丰富。 Jamie 就说 ： 「光在雨 林就有超过 60 种以上的水果。」总厨特别 提到栖息在丛林水域、以水果为主食的巨 型鱼类，对其鲜甜的肉质赞不绝口。秘鲁 国内孕育超过 3,000 多种马铃薯、鱼获量 全球数一数二，更有来自安地斯山脉、营 养满点的超级谷物「藜麦」。 帮秘鲁菜在全球打响名号的经典料理 非「ceviche( 虎之奶腌鲈鱼 )」莫属。作法 简单，将生鱼切块、浸入莱姆汁为底的卤 汁调味，再加上洋葱细片、盐、胡椒及「ají」 辣酱即可。腌酱呈白色，当地称为「leche de tigre」，即「虎之奶」的意思，味道清新、 呛辣，好滋味让人一口接一口。「ceviche」 为美洲沿岸各国常见的料理，但美味程度 却无人出秘鲁人之其右。 Jamie 强调 ： 「这么多年来，ceviche 一 直都是代表秘鲁的国民料理，不过日本人

Arroz con Pato

MaytaChef Executive Jaime Pesaque Mayta Executive Jaime Chef Pesaque

white juiceleche called tigre – tiger’s differentoctopus topping:tentacles octopus curl tentacles atop “I vanilla. make an ice out of olive oil,” white juice called de leche tigre –detiger’s different topping: atop curl vanilla. make an“Iice cream outcream of olive oil,” milk. is Ceviche is coastal made incountries coastal countries deepsweet orange sweetorb; potato orb; a juicy says Jaime.

“We experimented to find a more milk. Ceviche made in the deep the orange potato a juicy says Jaime.

“We experimented to find a more throughout the Americas, butdoes nobody does throughout the Americas, but nobody prawn tops the yellow and the flavor savory flavor.

I’ve sprinkled the ice cream prawn tops the yellow mash; andmash; the flavor savory flavor.

I’ve sprinkled the ice cream it better than the Peruvians. it better than the Peruvians. of the deeppotato purple is brightened by toasted of the deep purple is potato brightened by withquinoa, toastedtoo. quinoa, too. It’s recognisably a with It’s recognisably a beendish a staple dish in Peru “Ceviche “Ceviche has been has a staple in Peru but has more suspiro – suspiro but has–more going on.”going on.” sharp, spicy tiger’s from a finely the sharp,thespicy tiger’s milk frommilk a finely takes an innovative takesalso an innovative approach approach salmon ceviche.

“This chopped chopped salmon ceviche.

“This dish usesdish usesJaime alsoJaime many, manysays years,” says“The Jaime. “The for many,formany years,” Jaime. with his Patowith – Duck with his Arroz conArroz Pato con – Duck Rice.with Rice. cutmore the fish likefavourite my favourite all: aji amarillo,” Japanese Japanese taught ustaught to cut us thetofish likemoremy ingredientingredient of all: aji of amarillo,” sashimi to eat itCeviche quicker.should Ceviche should Jaime, describing “This is traditional in the northbut of Peru, but I sashimi and to eatand it quicker. continuescontinues Jaime, describing the chillithe chilli “This is traditional in the north of Peru, I be refreshing.” cold and refreshing.” peppers give a particular smoky spice a little.the I made the rice be cold and peppers that give that a particular smoky spice changed itchanged a little. itI made rice more likemore like Mayta, has introduced to thethey dishes they “I can’t imagine paella and marinated duck At Mayta,At Jaime hasJaime introduced a scallop a scallop to the dishes flavor.

“I flavor. can’t imagine paella and marinated the duck the confit andconfit and ceviche cape gooseberry in the “I cooking ourwithout cuisineit.” without it.” beer itto soft make it tender.” soft and tender.” ceviche with capewith gooseberry in the blend.

“I blend. cooking our cuisine breast in breast beer toinmake and Jaime loves Peru’s traditional ingredients Peru’s traditional ingredients havethis topped withblack toasted black quinoa,Jaime loves rice iswith cooked with cilantro fragrant cilantro have topped with this toasted quinoa, The rice The is cooked fragrant a graingrows whichhigh grows highAndes in the Andes and but dishes, to innovate andchocloand – a large-kernelled a grain which in the and dishes, likesbut to likes innovate and and – achoclo large-kernelled corn that corn was that was mountains andwas which once by mountains and which oncewas eaten by eatenmodernize modernize his cooking. new Peruvian another Incan popular Incan grain. his cooking.

“It’s new “It’s Peruvian another popular grain.

The tangThe of tang of theThe Incas.

Thegives quinoa this ceviche the Incas. quinoa thisgives ceviche cuisine but - classic, with a little twist. Take a cleansing relish made cuisine - classic, with abut little twist.

Take a cleansing relish made from olivefrom oil, olive red oil, red crispness.” this de Suspiro de dessert Limeña –dessert onion, and chopped crispness.” this Suspiro Limeña I have – I have onion, salt, limesalt, andlime chopped chilli cutschilli cuts Jaime Peru’s boundless added smallofpieces of pineapple toasted pineapple Jaime draws on draws Peru’s on boundless potato potato added small pieces toasted through the rich andrice. creamy through the rich meat and meat creamy Tinyrice. Tiny varieties fordish. another dish is called acidity andOtherwise texture. Otherwise be baby glazed baby carrots and sweetness. varieties for another “Thisdish. dish“This is called for acidityfor and texture. it can be it can glazed carrots lend colorlend and color sweetness.

– a colloquial for ahe friend,”too hesweet.” tooThe sweet.”

Theissuspiro lake of dulceRegardingRegarding his ambassadorship, culinary ambassadorship, causa – acausa colloquial term for term a friend,” suspiro a lake is of adulce his culinary this to try say:to“We trymany to bring many Jaime hasJaime this tohas say: “We bring says. Designed for itsharing, couldn’t have leche –caramel sweet sauce caramel sauce pushed says. Designed for sharing, couldn’tit have de leche de – sweet pushed things here tosoMayta, people can try the things here to Mayta, peoplesocan try the a better“To name. make fun, it more we a soda toand aerate it and make a better name. make“To it more we fun,through athrough soda siphon tosiphon aerate it make three different kinds of potato it fluffy. on Floating on the base caramel is a spectrum whole spectrum of Peruvian cuisine. It’s use threeuse different kinds of potato and add anditadd fluffy. Floating the caramel is a base whole of Peruvian cuisine. It’s some interesting trio of mashed some interesting flavors.” Aflavors.” trio of A mashed crispcookie, quinoabuttery cookie,with buttery with a pleasing nice to try different things. crisp quinoa a pleasing nice to try different things. You have You fun,have fun, crunch. of this is a quenelle crunch. On top ofOn thistop cookie is cookie a quenelle potato come spheres come in theyellow purple, yellow and you experience more.”like Spoken potato spheres in the purple, and you experience more.” Spoken a truelike a true andcolors orange of aEach sunset. has a cream of ice butthe it’subiquitous not the ubiquitous and orange of colors a sunset. hasEach a of ice – cream but it’s–not diplomat.diplomat.

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t2e0m1 b3 e r 2 0 1 3

tasting notes

让我们学会把鱼肉切的更像日式生鱼片， 入口方便吃得更快。Ceviche 就是要够沁凉、 清爽才好吃。」 在「Mayta」也吃得到总厨对这道菜的 特殊诠释－扇贝「ceviche」搭配灯笼果。 Jamie 亲自介绍 ： 「我用的黑藜麦生长在安 地斯山脉高海拔区，也曾是印加帝国人民 的主食，放到 ceviche 上层，可以增添酥脆 口感。」 总厨另一道招牌菜「causa( 三色薯蓉 )」 用的是秘鲁种类多如繁星的马铃薯。 Jamie 进一步说明 ： 「causa 是我们当地对朋友的 俗称。」用在这道大家可以一起分享的料理 上，再适合不过。「为了增添令人玩味的 口感、吃起来更有趣，我们总共用了三种 不同的马铃薯。」马铃薯泥三重奏依序有紫 色、黄色及落日的橘红色，上方个别搭配 了不同食材 ：香甜的深橘马铃薯球上环绕 着章鱼脚、黄色薯泥上有多汁的明虾以及 来自鲑鱼「ceviche」、鲜明呛辣的虎之奶用 在深紫薯泥上。总厨表示 ： 「这道菜里面有 我最爱的食材－ aji amarillo 金黄辣椒」，所 含的特殊熏呛辣味让他爱不释手，「真无法 想像没有 aji amarillo 要怎么煮菜。」 Jamie 热 爱 秘 鲁 的 道 地 食 材 及 料 理， 但也不忘发挥创意、端出改良版的新菜。 「我做的是新式秘鲁菜，经典又带点创新。 就 拿 Suspiro de Limeña 这 道 甜 点 来 说， 我加了小片的烤凤梨，增添些许酸度及口 感，才不会太甜。」Suspiro 指的就是『dulce de leche 焦糖酱』，通常会放进苏打瓶中通 气，增加膨松度。焦糖上有奶香绵密的藜 麦饼，酥脆口感让人吃起来很开心，最上 层则放上一球冰淇淋。不过可不是全拿香 草来充数，总厨强调 ： 「冰淇淋是用橄榄 油做的，多次尝试就是希望做出恰到好处 的咸香口味。冰淇淋里面我也加了些烤藜 麦， 让 人 一 吃 就 知 道 是 Suspiro， 但 层 次 更为丰富。」 另 一 道 料 理「Arroz con Pato( 秘 鲁 黄 椒烩鸭饭 )」也可以看得到总厨的巧思。 Jamie 说 ： 「这是秘鲁北部的家常料理，我 稍微做了点变化，米饭质感偏向西班牙炖 饭，用啤酒腌渍的鸭腿和胸肉肉质更为软 嫩。」米饭加入香气浓郁的胡荽叶及印加 文化另一主要谷类－大型的粒状玉米「choclo」一起煮 ；另外以橄榄油、红葱、盐、 莱姆及辣椒段熬制的佐料口感清爽，让味 道浓郁的鸭肉及绵密的米饭吃来不油不腻， 更加美味。蜜汁小萝卜增添甘甜，使这道 菜色泽更为鲜艳。 讲到「Mayta」美食外交的魅力，Jamie 表示 ： 「我们想在餐厅呈现不一样的东西给 客人，让他们品尝到全方位的秘鲁美食。 能尝试不同的美食料理真的很棒，从中获 得乐趣， 体验更多、 更丰富。 」总厨说着说着， 整个人俨如真正的外交官一样。

Ceviche

Causa

Mayta

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sponsored feature Guincho a Galera Head Chef ​ Martinho Moniz 葡国餐厅总厨

recipe

葡式烩海鲜锅 各式美味精华一次品尝

cataplana de marisco Martinho Moniz, head chef at Guincho a Galera at the Hotel Lisboa Macau, shares his approach to this Portuguese classic.

Bacalhau and Black pork are icons of Portuguese cooking. Cataplana is one, too.

It is a rich part of our culture. Cataplana is the name of the copper pot, and every family in Portugal has one. When closed, the pot is completely air-tight which allows all the flavors to be completely absorbed by the fish.

The dish is originally from North Africa, which shows the influence of Arab culture.

When the pot is placed on the table, it is a very precious moment.

I’m a farm boy from near the sea. From the hospital where I was born, you can see the beach. I grew up in Nazaré, which is very famous for its big surfing waves. I love cooking fish and seafood. For me, cataplana is a symbol of home. I can remember going to the market with my mother to buy the fish to make it. It was my mother who encouraged me to be a chef. Whenever I cook cataplana, I can feel my mother with me.

The big challenge when cooking cataplana in Macau is that my guests are passionate about how their fish is cooked.

At home in Portugal, everything goes into

说到葡萄牙菜，像是马介休 (bacalhau) 或黑 猪都是极具代表性的料理，而「葡式烩海 鲜锅 (cataplana)」也是其中不容错过的佳肴 之一，它充分展现出我们文化丰富的一面。 Cataplana 其实是铜锅的名称，在葡萄牙几 乎是家家户户必备的厨具。闭阖时，利用锅 盖与锅身的密合进行闷煮，有助鲜鱼吸收各 式味道交融的精华。这道菜最早源自于北非， 带有阿拉伯文化的色彩。大锅上桌时，总让 人兴奋不已，是值得纪念的重要时刻。 我是个农村小孩，家里靠海。我成长 的海岸城市拿撒勒（Nazaré）是冲浪迷的 朝圣所在。料理鱼类及海鲜都是我的最爱。 「葡式烩海鲜锅」代表的就是我的家乡。以 前和妈妈一同上市场买鱼、下厨的画面到 现在都还历历在目。每次做这道菜，都感 觉妈妈就在我身旁。 在葡萄牙，习惯一次把所有食材通通 放进锅里煮，有时鱼肉会有点过老，但我 个人不太在意，倒还蛮喜欢的。但在澳门 可就不是这么一回事，当地饕客对于鱼肉 的处理非常敏锐，所以不管是龙虾、蛤蛎 或鱼类等任何新鲜食材，我都会抓好准确 的烹煮时间。这与传统作法没有两样，只 是时间点要抓的恰到好处，才能迎合当地

Chef Moniz uses locally-sourced ​ grouper for his cataplana de marisco. 总厨采用了本地石斑来制作 他的葡式烩海鲜锅

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recipe

CATAplANA dE MArISCo CATAplANA BASE

the pot all at once, with the result that some fish is overcooked. Actually I like it like that! But here, I cook everything, whether it be the lobster, clams or fish, only just as long as it needs to be cooked. I don’t change the recipe – I just use precise timing to make sure everything is perfect and the guests are more than happy. My cooking style is just a little bit modern. I cook traditional Portuguese food, but with the elegance of French cuisine. I work with traditional recipes, but use cuttingedge technology.

The secret of a good cataplana is the quality of the produce. You have to work with the best ingredients for the best taste.

The lobster and the clams come from the United States while the garoupa is local. The potatoes are from France – they’re called ratte and have a wonderful flavor. You can taste the farm where they were grown.

After that, it’s the quality of the stock.

I use a new set of the same ingredients in the stock as in the casserole: prawn heads, lobster tail and so on. The secret for a good stock is using aromatic water. Not just normal water, but water infused with coriander, ginger, pepper corns and celery.

The last secret is lemon. Just a couple of drops draws out all the other flavors.

顾客的口味。我烹调道地的葡国料理会加 入法式料理的优雅元素，并且运用崭新技 术来呈现传统食谱的精华所在。 「葡式烩海鲜锅」要做得好，食材的 品质是关键。要运用最佳食材，创造出无 懈可击的滋味。我们用美国进口的龙虾及 蛤蛎、澳门当地的石斑，以及名为「ratte」 的法国种马铃薯，味道特别棒。一口入肚， 可以吃得到各地食材的道地风味。 讲完食材，接下来的重点就是高汤了。 使用汤料与制作砂锅菜一样，有虾头、龙 虾尾等等。汤头要好，秘诀就在加入胡荽、 姜、干胡椒及芹菜的调味汁。最后别忘了 加上柠檬，一两滴便有画龙点睛之效，让 整体风味更上一层楼。

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1 kg lobster 20 g large onions 2 dl (200 ml) dry white wine chili powder to taste 100 g sprig of coriander 400 g raw shrimp 50 g sprig of parsley 650 g of peeled fresh tomato 3 dl old brandy 100 g cloves of garlic 20 g butter 1 dl olive oil 12 pcs peppercorn 1.5 l fumet of shrimp

葡式烩海鲜锅



Use a saucepan with 5-liter capacity for the mixture of broth and water.



Add in peeled potatoes (cut into pieces), 1 onion (cut into pieces), shrimp, white wine, salt, and peppercorns.



When it has boiled (about 30 minutes), add the lobster and let it cook for 30 minutes.



Meanwhile, use a pan to cook the finely chopped onion, grated garlic, and olive oil. Once the onion begins to brown, add crushed tomatoes and pour in 5 dl of broth through a fine sieve.



Remove all the meat from the lobster, including the paws, corals and roe if any.





Blend all the lobster meat, put it into the broth and simmer for a bit more.

汤底及水混和，置于容量5公升的 汤锅内。



加入削皮马铃薯(切片)、1颗洋葱( 切片)、虾、白酒、盐及干辣椒。



煮沸后(需时约3​​0分钟)加入龙虾， 熬煮30分钟。



同时将切块洋葱、大蒜碎末及橄 榄油放入平底锅炒香，洋葱炒至 焦黄后加入蕃茄泥，并将5公合汤 底过筛倒入。

CATAplANA FISH ANd SEAFood

600 g grouper 500 g sea bass 1.5 kg lobster 400 g clams

锅底

1 公斤 龙虾 20 克 大颗洋葱 2 公合 (200 毫升) 干白酒 辣椒粉（品尝用） 100 克 小株胡荽 400 克 生虾 50 克 小株巴西里 650 克 新鲜脱皮蕃茄 3 公合 陈年白兰地 100 克 蒜头 20 克 奶油 1 公合 橄榄油 12 片干辣椒 1.5 公升 虾高汤



Scrape the spines and scales off the fish and seafood.



将龙虾肉、虾脚及虾卵等全部取 出。

 

Season with salt and pepper.



Place a pan on a heated stove. Add a little olive oil and a knob of butter with coriander and garlic.

龙虾肉充分搅和后放入汤底，慢 火闷煮一下即可。

鲜鱼及海鲜炖锅

 

Lightly sauté both fish and seafood.

Place the potatoes in the cataplana, add the fish and seafood, and pour in the cataplana base/seafood broth.

Enjoy!

600 克 石斑 500 克 鲈鱼 1.5 公斤 龙虾 400 克 蛤蛎

  

将鱼及海鲜去骨去鳞。

 

文火嫩煎鱼及海鲜。

加盐及胡椒调味。 平底锅置于火炉上，倒入一点橄 榄油、一小球奶油、胡荽及大 蒜。 马铃薯放入炖锅内，加入鱼及海 鲜，并倒入炖锅锅底/海鲜高汤。

用餐愉快！

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sponsored markets feature

海鲜集中地

Sea�ood Centra�

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es

markets

nd .

ak m t ke u ar o M ar h o s i eF dg sal orl e l w o Wh afood n e se de g’s ber n A o gK The Hon

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markets

It’s four o’clock in the morning. Do you know where your seafood is? If you live in Hong Kong, odds are good that it’s just arriving at the Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market. In the wee hours of the morning when most of us are still sound asleep, the dockworkers and market hands are already hard at work.

Banish any romantic thoughts of boat dwellers in large-brimmed hats selling their day’s catch fresh from their sampans.

The Aberdeen fishing port is unmistakably modernized. Generators power fish tank pumps, cargo trucks idle, and although it’s still known the “little fragrant harbor,” any aroma of the incense wood that gave rise to Aberdeen’s Cantonese name has long since been replaced by the scent of diesel from incoming and outgoing boats. 一大清早四点钟，海鲜哪里买？香港居民 可有福了，此刻正是香港仔鱼类批发市场 进货的时间。天空尚未露出鱼肚白，多数 人还在梦周公时，港坞工人及市场员工早 就忙里忙外，一刻也不得闲。 若以为现场是渔夫戴着大顶草帽、搭 着小船贩售当日鱼货的渔家风情画可就大 错特错了，香港仔渔港可是非常现代化， 自动发电鱼池帮浦及货车一应俱全。香港 粤语地名，一说为过往曾是香木交易市场 得名。而香港仔渔港作为转运码头，当年 缭绕的香木气息，早已被进出港船只浓浓 的柴油味取代。

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In an effort to ensure quality Hong Kong requires that all fresh marine fish be sold via one of the seven wholesale fish markets operated by the Fish Marketing Organization (FMO). No longer sold by the fishermen directly, the fish pass through numerous middlemen before reaching consumers. While still out on the South China Sea, fishermen transfer their daily catch to connecting agents, who transport the fish to Hong Kong wholesalers, who sell in bulk to buyers, who fill and deliver orders to restaurants, grocers and wet markets, who finally sell the fish to individual customers.

Wholesalers may look back with some nostalgia on the old days, when the market was less regulated and they could select what they wanted as the boats came in. But they appreciate the infrastructure provided by the FMO. The live seafood facilities are equipped with generators and water pumps and provide a supply of clean seawater, all of which reduce stress on the fish. During lowyield seasons the FMO imports seafood to maintain inventory. 香港仔鱼类批发市场是香港鱼类统营处 (FMO) 经营的七大鱼市之一，为严格控管 品质，新鲜鱼货不由渔家贩售，而是经过 多重中盘商营销，最后才到消费者手中。 渔船尚在南中国海时，当日鱼获便已售予 中介，送至香港大盘商后再批发转卖给专 接餐厅、零售商及生鲜市场订单的买家， 最终才单卖给一般消费者。 批发商或许缅怀过往直接向靠岸渔船 采购、市场较为纷沓的时期，但对于统营 处提供的硬体设备仍是高度肯定。临时鱼 池备有帮浦、供应干净的海水，可安定被 捕活鱼的情绪、减低压力。鱼获量较低的 季节，统营处则进口海鲜，让存货供应无虞。

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markets

Each year, the FMO moves around 8,000 tons of live marine fish and 35,000 tons of fresh marine fish through its wholesale fish markets. T he largest market is Aberdeen, which, according to Marketing Manager Boris Wong, accounts for roughly one-third of the fresh fish and threequarters of the live seafood sold in Hong Kong. Business is brisk, and though the market may look chaotic to the untrained eye, the operation is as well-coordinated as a beehive. 统营处旗下的鱼类批发市场每年经手活鱼 达 8,000 吨，生鲜则有 35,000 吨之多。行 销经理 Boris Wong 表示，其中以香港仔市 场规模最大，生鲜及活海鲜经销就各占了 全港约三分之一及四分之三。鱼市交易相 当蓬勃，外行人眼中看来稍嫌有点杂乱无 章，但整体运作其实如同蜂巢一般，分工 合作、井井有条。

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Visitors are advised to stay on their toes. A lapse in attention is apt to result in a painful encounter with cartload of fish or an unexpected dousing of seawater. After one gets the hang of dodging the live fish being tossed around and wading through the streams of ankledeep water sluicing from fish tanks, it’s possible to enjoy the visual feast: glistening mackerel packed in boxes of ice, tanks of brilliantly colored yellow wrasse, buckets of coiled pike conger, bins of exotically striped areolate babylon, and piles and piles of decapitated fish heads whose bodies will soon be made into fish balls. 鱼市的访客需时时提高警觉，否则一恍神撞到满满一车的鱼或泼了满身海水，都是常见的意外。反应够快、懂得躲开抛来丢去的活鱼，或 面临膝盖高度、鱼池排出的强力水流也能安然跋涉的人就可好好欣赏一下鱼市的美丽风景 ：冰块箱里闪闪发亮的青花鱼、水池中鲜艳动人 的黄衣锦鱼、一桶桶蜷曲的海鳗、一柜柜充满各式异国条纹色调的象牙凤螺，以及堆叠成堆的鱼头，其鱼身准备制成鱼丸。

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markets

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markets

T he Aberdeen market makes Hong Kong’s seafood world go around. The market officially closes every day at two o’clock in the afternoon, and most of the wholesale business slows down by late morning, but the pleasure of eating fresh seafood that the market helps to deliver continues all day long. 休市时间为每日下午二点。绝大部分的批 发作业步调随着时序进入中午而逐渐变 慢，但一整个早上的鱼市交易已足够支撑 全港的海鲜经济。可以说，正是香港仔鱼 类批发市场驱使香港海鲜市场不断运作。

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奥地利酿酒 新秀登场

austria’s new generation of winemakers AustriA boAsts nearly three millennia of winemaking history, twenty

奥地利酿酒历史将近三千年，相当悠久，全

thousand wine growers and six thousand producers. Indigenous varietals

国共有近两万户酿酒坊及六千家制造商。当

such as Grüner Veltliner have won international acclaim. The domestic

地培育的 Grüner Veltliner 等葡萄变种品质优

wine culture is rich and appreciative – Austrian demand for their local

异，也备受国际好评。奥国酿酒文化丰富，

wines outstrips supply. It’s one of the world’s great wine regions and it is

品质极受肯定，从当地酿酒产业生产量尚不

thriving.

及国内需求即可见一斑。奥地利产业蓬勃发

Not so long ago though, in the mid 1980s, the reputation of Austrian

116

展，为全球数一数二的酿酒区域。

wine lay in shatters following a scandal involving some producers who

但 1980 年代中期爆发的不肖酿酒业者于

had adulterated their wine with a banned substance found in antifreeze.

酒中掺入违法物质丑闻，重创奥地利酿酒王

Today, many will agree that it was the best thing that ever happened to

国形象。不过现在很多人却认为这是因祸得

Austrian wine. In the aftermath of the scandal, ambitious winemakers

福。丑闻爆发后，不少有志酿酒业者仍义无

emerged who were willing to fight an uphill battle to bring their wines

反顾、投身这场硬仗，希望扭转劣势，让奥

back on to the international stage. Modern techniques and steady focus

地利美酒重回国际市场怀抱。拜现代技术及

on quality turned the tide, and by the late 1990s Austrian wine was back

稳定品质所赐，奥地利酒商终于东山再起。

in the finest restaurants, bars and boutiques in New York, London, Hong

90 年代末期奥国佳酿又于纽约、伦敦、香港

Kong and Tokyo.

及东京等各地顶级餐厅、酒吧再现踪迹。

Now nearly thirty years on, we see these accomplished pioneers

至今将近三十年的时间，当初披荆斩棘

passing on their heritage to a new generation of knowledgeable and

的前辈将宝贵经验传承给同样知识丰富、充

equally ambitious winemakers, who aim to surpass the achievements of

满雄心壮志的新一代酿酒商，希望能青出于

their accomplished fathers. Here are three examples of those who have

蓝胜于蓝。以下为三家已崭露头角的酿酒新

already made their mark.

秀介绍。

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Gerhard Kracher 于父亲 Alois 2007 年过世后正式接下家族 的 酿 酒 事 业。 Alois Kracher 曾六度荣膺年度最佳甜酒酿 酒商，说是奥地利第一酿酒 品牌并不为过。对后继者而 言，虽是不小的压力，但 28 岁的 Gerhard 却以实力证明

Gerhard Kracher

一切，不到两年时间，便在

Weinlaubenhof Kracher, Neusiedlersee

伦 敦 举 行 的 2009 年 国 际 葡 萄酒竞赛中摘下年度甜酒酿 酒商的殊荣。

Gerhard Kracher took over the family vineyards

Kracher 家 族 葡 萄 园 座

after the death of his father Alois in 2007.

落 于 Neusiedlersee 湖 岸

Considered by many to be the best winemaker in

边，浅水、奥地利 Pannonin

Austria, Alois Kracher was six times recognized as

Plain 地区秋季浓雾造成的温

Sweet Wine Maker of the Year. It was a hard act to

暖气候，再加上长时间的熟

follow, but already in 2009, twenty-eight year-old

成期，得天独厚的条件举世

Gerhard himself won the Sweet Wine Maker of the

少有，出产的贵腐酒几乎瓶

Year Award at the International Wine Challenge in

瓶都是品质保证。潮湿天候

London.

孕 育 的 贵 腐 菌 (Botrytis) 使

The Kracher vineyards are located along the

葡萄水分挥发，脱水成葡萄

shore of Lake Neusiedlersee. The shallow depth

干后却有神奇效果，让糖份

of the water and the warm climate of Austria’s

及风味都升级。

Pannonin Plain produce autumn mists and a long

Gerhard 每 年 都 会 挑 选

ripening season, and this is one of the rare areas

多 个 葡 萄 变 种， 混 酿 一 系

in the world where noble rot is almost guaranteed.

列

Infected by the magic-making Botrytis fungus in

lesen( 德文为特选干葡萄之

the moist air, the grapes later dry out and become

意，引伸为贵腐菌葡萄所酿

raisined, with intensely concentrated sugar and

之 甜 酒 )」 特 极 葡 萄 酒， 酒

flavor.

标 中 的 留 存 糖 份 从 160 g/l

Gerhard produces a range of Trockenbeer-

Distributed in Hong Kong by Ponti Fine Wine 香港经销商Ponti Fine Wine www.pontiwinecellars.com.hk

的「Trockenbeerenaus-

到 450 g/l 以上不等。另外，

enauslesen (German for “dried berries selection,”

还有酒柜中熟成的「Nouvelle

the term refers to sweet wines made from the

Vague」、 不 锈 钢 桶 熟 成 的

botrytized grapes) every year from different vari-

「Zwischen den Seen」 葡 萄

etals and blends and labels them in order of resid-

酒等，虽然含糖量高，鲜呛

ual sugar levels which can range from 160 g/l to

的酸度及浓郁的果味却搭配

over 450 g/l. Some are aged in barriques (labeled

的恰到好处，让人忍不住再

Nouvelle Vague ) and some in stainless steel

三品尝。

(labeled Zwischen den Seen ) and despite the high sugar levels are perfectly balanced with crisp acidity and intense fruit.

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Dieter Hoffman-Unzog 出 身 金融背景，非常有商业头脑， 为跨足多个领域的实业家。 2001 年 入 主 Markus Graf zu Königsegg-Aulendorf 及 Max Erbgraf zu KönigseggAulendorf 的 酿 酒 事 业 成 为 共同所有人，并担任 Schloss

Dieter Hoffmann-Unzog Weingut Schloss Halbturn, Neusiedlersee

Halbturn 酒庄的执行长，以 打造奥地利最佳红酒为职志。 也如同他的座右铭「品质不 可 妥 协 」 一 般，Dieter 斥 巨

Dieter Hoffman-Unzog has a background in

资全面更换现代化设备，不

finance and is a serial entrepreneur. In 2001,

惜重本就为了追求最高品质。

he joined Markus Graf zu Königsegg-Aulendorf

从采收到装瓶，设立了一整

and Max Erbgraf zu Königsegg-Aulendorf as

套精细的制作标准流程，包

co-owner and CEO of the Schloss Halbturn

括葡萄园整体管理、葡萄挑

estate with a mission to produce the best

选、双重分类及酒柜使用都

Austrian red wine. His motto: “Quality knows no

有详细规定。

compromise.” Investing in the modernization of

接近匈牙利边界 Halbturn 地

highest quality. He set up meticulous production

方的巴洛克式城堡，过去曾

standards from harvest to bottling, including

为奥国王室家族夏季狩猎的

healthy vineyard management, berry selection,

行宫。昔日的圆顶 馬廄 今已

double sorting, and use of barriques.

改为窖藏多排法国橡木酒桶

The winery is located east of Vienna near

Direct sales only, with worldwide shipping to selected clients. 仅接受直接订购， 会员客户可享全球货运服务 www.weingut-schlosshalbturn.com

还有馆藏丰富的的红酒图书

Halbturn, which used to be the hunting and

资 料 馆， 并 收 藏 2002 年 至

summer residence of the Austrian Imperial

今所有酒款的大型模型瓶。

family. The former vaulted stables are now an

Dieter 打 造 第 一 品 牌 的

exquisite cellar housing rows of French oak bar-

壮志于 2012 年开花结果，酿

rels. The estate maintains an extensive wine

制 的 2008 年 黑 皮 诺 赢 得 奥

library and larger formats for all the wines

地利最佳红酒的殊荣。品牌

which have been produced since 2002.

的顶级红酒系列有来自本地

Dieter’s ambitions bore fruit in 2012, when

原 生 的 St. Laurent 及 Blau-

the estate’s 2008 Pinot Noir won Decanter

fränkisch 葡 萄 变 种， 以 及

magazine’s trophy for Austria’s best red wine.

Cabernet Sauvignon、Blau-

The label’s top red wine range also comprises

fränkisch、Merlot 及 Caber-

single varietal wines made from St. Laurent and

net Franc 的特极皇家混酿。

Blaufränkisch grapes native to Austria, and the kisch, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

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的精美酒窖。庄园占地广阔，

the Hungarian border in the Baroque Palace

Imperial blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufrän-

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酿酒场位于维也纳东部、

the equipment, he spared no expense to ensure

Franz Xaver (FX) Pichler 主 掌 的 葡 萄 园 正 是 酒 评 家 Robert Parker 赞 不 绝 口 的「 拉 图 酒 庄 (Chateau Latour)」 及 奥 地 利 Wachau 区 的「Domaine de la Romanee-Conti」庄园。 Pilcher 虽已年过七旬，仍事必躬亲每日

Lucas Pichler

Weingut F.X. Pichler, Wachau

巡逻葡萄园，悉心照料，1999 年才正式交班给儿子 Lucas。 庄园座落于风景如画的 Danube 河 谷 Wachau 地 区。 2009 年引进最新科技酿酒设备，

Lucas is the son of the famous Franz Xaver (F.X.) Pichler, whose estate wine critic Robert Parker has called the Chateau Latour and Domaine de la Romanee-Conti of the Wachau. Now in his

以最现代的方式颠覆多年传统。

seventies, the elder Pilcher still spends every day

访 客 踏 入 纯 白 无 暇 的 品 酒 间，

in the vineyards tending and caring for his beloved

可一览已延续五代所耕耘的广

vines, but in 1999, he passed the winemaking

阔葡萄梯田。地下酒窖的风格

duties on to his son.

同样干净简单，有如实验室一

The Pilcher estate is located in the beautiful

般。Lucas 亲自指定使用不锈钢，

Danube River valley called the Wachau. In 2009,

酿制的葡萄酒与橡木桶熟成一

a new state-of-the-art winery was inaugurated,

般，纯净不带一丝瑕疵，非常

breaking tradition with ultra modern architecture.

浓郁，尽显当地的风土特色。

From the pristine white tasting room visitors

Kellerberg 的 Loibenberg 的地形以及历史超过 800 年的 陡峭依山梯田孕育出品质一流 的 Grüner Veltliner 及 Riesling 葡 萄， 也 酿 制 成 多 款 Pilcher

enjoy expansive views over the vineyard terraces, which the Pilchers have been cultivating for five generations. Below, in the cellars, the simplicity and almost laboratory-like atmosphere continues.

Lucas uses only stainless steel. Unaltered by

极 具 代 表 性 的 佳 酿。 依 据 特

oak, the character of the resulting wines shines

选 年 份 不 同，Pilcher 也 推 出

through. They are clean and pure and immensely

M(Monumental 特 极 纪 念 ) 及 Unendlich(Infinite 无穷纪念 ) 两 种限量酒款，都是名符其实的 顶级美酒。

concentrated, giving a true expression of their terroir.

The plots of Kellerberg and Loibenberg, steep mountain terraces dating back to the 12th century, produce some of Pilcher’s most impressive and expressive Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings. In selected years, he also produces wines labeled M (for Monumental) and Unendlich (Infinite) – confident wines that both fulfill the promise of their labels.

Distributed in Hong Kong by Altaya 香港经销商大亚洋酒 www.altayawines.com

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sponsored feature

慧眼识餐酒

champagne savoir-faire

When it comes to the rules of fine wines and Champagnes, some are simple. Red meat pairs with red wine, seafood with white and

Champagne with fabulous celebrations. But what happens once you venture off the beaten track? Can Champagne go with a multicourse meal? Which aperitif will enhance a glass of even the best bubbly? And what should a gracious host do if a guest requests a full flute to accompany a nibble of chocolate?

G.H. Mumm is teaming up with L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Tasting Kitchen this October to host G.H. Mumm Chef de Cave Didier selected Champagnes can further elevate the flavors of fine French cuisine.

Tasting Kitchen spoke with the chef and sommeliers at Robuchon responsible for the exquisite pairings about their Champagne philosophies. Combined with advice from the celebrated iPhone app Champagne Protocoles de G.H. Mumm there’s enough expert guidance to elevate a novice to a champ of the Champs .

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ReD DOG STuDiO

Mariotti and world-renowned Champagne expert Richard Juhlin for an exclusive Chef’s Table dinner demonstrating how thoughtfully

餐酒怎么搭？有时很简单，红肉配红酒，海鲜就配白酒或香槟，宾主尽欢，皆大欢喜。但 若另辟蹊径，想走不同的路会怎样？譬如能否以香槟搭配多道套餐、什么开胃菜可让顶级 香槟的味道更上一层楼？或客人想巧克力配香槟，身为主人又该如何是好？ 法国香槟 G.H. Mumm 今年十月特别与 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 及 TK 合作，网罗知 名香槟酒评人 Richard Juhlin 及自家酿酒大师 Didier Mariotti 参加别开生面的主厨晚宴，藉

PAIRING CHAMPAGNE

由精心挑选的香槟，让法式料理的美味加倍升级。 TK 特别专访 L’Atelier 负责香槟与餐点搭配的行政总厨及侍酒师，一窥餐酒搭配奥妙。 加上 G.H. Mumm 专为 iPhone 设计的 APP「Champagne Protocoles de G.H. Mumm」搭配 守则提点，初学者也能功力大增，慧眼挑选最棒的香槟。

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presented by g.h. mumm

what Can be served with Champagne as an aperitif? 该选择何种开胃菜搭配香槟享用？ Champagne is the only wine meant to be enjoyed standing up. And it is a flexible beverage, lending itself quite well to hors d’oeuvres. 可以站着享用的酒，非香槟莫属。香槟搭配性极强，为 各式开胃菜的好搭档。 C h a m pag n e p roto C o l e s d e g . h . m u m m

Can Champagne be served “i would choose caviar. it’s much fresher especially

with a main dish?

when you’re pairing it with some refreshing Champagne.

主菜能否搭配香槟享用？

it’s going to bring out the matching flavor – really it’s just a perfect match. For the Champagne, i think something very refreshing like Blanc de Blancs. Sometimes an aged

槟可引发餐酒搭配的美味，真的无懈可击。讲到香槟我 总会想到气味清新的『Blanc de Blancs』，或者陈年香槟

C h a m pag n e p roto C o l e s d e g . h . m u m m

有时候滋味也很棒。」 Yo u C h i n g Y u e n ( e r i C ) , s o m m e l i e r 侍 酒 师 丘 政 元

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Certain people will answer “no.” Correct them graciously, as the actual answer is “yes.” 有些人会说「不行」，这时请婉转的纠正他们， 其实是「可以的」。

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ReD DOG STuDiO

Champagne is great.” 「我推荐鱼子酱，搭配爽口的香槟，味道会更加新鲜。香

G.H. Mumm’s Brut Sélection NV pairs wonderfully with seafood dishes.

“What is nice about Mumm is that they have a very different type of Champagne. With Mumm you have many years, you have different types of grapes. in French cuisine we have dishes that are sometimes a bit rich with butter, with cream. The champagne helps us balance the dish. When you try the food with the Champagne, it’s amazing how well they match together.” 「Mumm 厉害之处，是它们的酒与众不同。不同年份，葡萄种类也不一样。法式料理常加入奶 油调味，香槟正好可以中和丰厚的味道。美食搭配香槟一起享用相得益彰，常让人惊艳不已。」 oliver elzer, Chef de Cuisine exéCutif

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sponsored feature Warm soft boiled egg with baby spinach puree and aged Comté cheese mousse 日本糖心蛋伴嫩菠菜蓉及 香浓考姆特芝士慕丝

ReD DOG STuDiO

G.H.Mumm Millésimé 2006

presented by g.h. mumm

what should You do if a guest insists on drinKing Champagne with ChoColate? 客人吃巧克力非要搭配香槟怎么办？ On one hand: the most exquisite of all wines. On the other: the most divine of desserts. The temptation to pair them together is irresistible. But you just can’t win: Champagne and chocolate, like the best of enemies, cannot be served together. 一边是口味最细致的酒款 ；一边是最令人钟爱的甜点。 想一并享用也算人之常情，但只怕两边不讨好 ：香槟和 巧克力如同天敌，不可同时上桌。 C h a m pag n e p roto C o l e s d e g . h . m u m m

“Some people say Champagne and chocolate cannot mesh together because of chocolate’s dryness and bitterness, but i often suggest a milk chocolate. Milk chocolate can go with rosé Champagne because the rosé has good fruitiness. i focus on fruitiness to go with bubbles. Mumm Champagne has a fine bubble and is very smooth.” 「有人说巧克力味道干苦，不能和香槟一起享用。不过， 换成是牛奶巧克力就没问题了。玫瑰香槟富含果味，与牛 奶巧克力很搭。我更注重果味与香槟泡沫的融合程度，像 」 Mumm 泡沫就很漂亮，也非常顺口。 a u C h i n m a n ( a n dY ), s om m e l i e r 侍酒师欧展文

what Champagne should be served with dessert? 搭配甜点该选择何种香槟？ When serving sweet delights, the only possible choice is a demi-sec, or extra-dry Champagne as it contains an adequate dose of sugar and is otherwise full and generous. 搭配甜点，半干或略干香槟为不二选择，含一定甜度， 酒体也丰满宽厚。 C h a m pag n e p roto C o l e s d e g . h . m u m m

“There are two kinds of Champagne that are very good. One is the Le Rosé Champagne because it’s much fruitier. i recommend pairing it with fruity dishes like a raspberry tart, simple berries, or blueberry cheesecake. it will be very fine with those because it will enhance the fruitiness. The demi-sec Champagne is very good because you have over fifteen grams of sugar, sometimes over thirty.” 「有两款值得推荐，一是 Le Rosé Champagne 粉红香槟， 果味浓郁，适合和覆盆子塔、综合莓果或蓝莓起司蛋糕 等水果甜点一起享用，提升果香的迷人程度。半干香槟 含超过 15 克糖残量、有时甚至超过 30 克，也是搭配甜 点的绝佳选择。 wo n g K a l u n ( t e r e n C e ), s o m m e l i e r 侍 酒师黄嘉麟

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sponsored feature

Fabien Marcault and Max Traverse

world class

世外天堂

paradise found An escape to the tropical island pleasures of Honi Honi is only as far away as Wellington Street.

“I wanted to create a little paradise – a

way out of the concrete,” says Honi Honi founder Max Traverse. The space he found is on the third floor of a building on busy Wellington Street. When the elevator doors open, guests are transported to a piece of Polynesia. Stools hewn from the trunks of mango trees, hanging lamps fashioned from glass fishermen’s floats, carved Hawaiian art, and a muslin curtain like a rucked sail all make the bar feel perfectly heavenly.

Honi Honi smells of fresh tropical fruit.

The team behind the bar work hard, peeling fragrant mangoes, scalping watermelons and blitzing the juicy flesh to pulp in blenders. “This is a Tiki bar,” says Max. “Tiki is a concept invented by Trader Vic, who fell in love with Polynesian culture, then brought it to America and Europe. It’s about freshness, relaxing and the outdoors. We like to make our drinks with fresh fruit every day and we use the best alcohol we can get our hands on.”

The bar opens out on to a tropical garden enclosed by a bamboo fence. Deep green foliage and exotic plants create a jungle feel – far removed from the bustling streets and shops below. A special rain shower, available for guests who want to get wet, adds to the sense of escape. “We have beach parties here on alternate Sundays,” says bar manager Fabien Marcault. “People come in their beachwear. And yes – they do use the shower!

It’s a great way to spend a sunny afternoon.”

The refreshingly fruity and iced cocktails arrive in fantastic receptacles. Some are carved from wood. Others are ceramic, featuring traditional tiki mask designs. Still

Tiki Angel

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other drinks are served in natural containers, like a hollowed-out, filled-to-the-brim watermelon. “We have sharing cocktails,” says Max. “I watched how people in Hong Kong eat – how they order different dishes and share. And I noticed at cocktail bars how everyone would order a different drink and then taste each other’s. So I thought, let’s try this – let’s make large cocktails for groups of people to drink together. It’s natural and fun.”

Fabien is making a cocktail from Zacapa rum, a fine Guatemalan liquor the color of burnt amber. This rum comes in a bottle wearing a slender belt of woven grass.

“Zacapa rum is at the top of its game,” says Max. “It has sweet honey and vanilla notes that come through – spice too. It’s great on the rocks or in a simple mixed drink so its flavour can shine.”

Today Fabien is making a more complex drink using Zacapa. “We use a lot of ice in tiki cocktails to make the drinks long and refreshing. You want a really good alcohol with classy flavor to make a great drink.”

Fabien carefully rotates the rim of a faceshaped brown tiki glass in a heap of shredded coconut. He mixes rum, pineapple juice and coconut water, adds a dash of coconut and orgeat syrup and pours the drink over plenty of ice. “Coconut water goes incredibly well with rum, and is naturally hydrating, so this is perfect for hot weather.” The coconut looks like a halo around the top of the carved face on the front of the glass. Fabien calls the drink Tiki Angel.

Despite the fruit juice and syrup, Tiki Angel is not that sweet, rather clean-tasting and light. The coconut water is pure and refreshing and the vanilla notes of the rum come through clearly. “It’s a cooling drink – very tiki!” says Fabien. “Good name too.”

“I love to name cocktails,” interjects Max.

“But finding a name for the bar was hard. You want to find something memorable. I stumbled across Honi Honi as it is the name of a rum cocktail. And I thought: girls here in Hong Kong call their boyfriends Honey, and honey is a sweet foodstuff. It all seemed to fit. Then someone told me that Honi Honi is actually the name for a traditional Polynesian greeting, where two people press their noses together whilst simultaneously inhaling. A bit like a kiss in France. And then I knew – a Polynesian kiss! – what name could be better than that!”

Zacapa is the rum of World Class, the global competition which celebrates the skill and style of the world’s best bartenders. Follow all the action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK.

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TIKI ANGEl

50 ml Zacapa 23 Year Old Rum 70 ml coconut water 20 ml pineapple juice 5 ml orgeat syrup 5 ml coconut syrup

Serve in a round tiki mug filled to overflowing with ice and with a coconut-encrusted rim.

50 毫升 23年陈年Zacapa兰姆酒 70 毫升 椰子水 20 毫升 凤梨汁 5 毫升 杏仁糖浆 5 毫升 椰子糖浆

以Tiki圆杯装盛，放入 冰块，再取椰壳置杯缘 点缀即可。

酒吧创辨人 Max Traverse 在谈到创办风尚 酒吧 Honi Honi 的理念时表示 ： 「我想在水 泥丛林中让人有个偷闲的天堂。」酒吧就隐 匿在车水马龙的威灵顿街中，走进所在建 筑物三楼，电梯一开，映入眼帘的景象无 不让人仿佛置身南太平洋玻里尼西亚群岛， 有取自芒果树干凿成的座椅、仿玻璃浮标 的垂挂灯饰、夏威夷雕刻艺术，及横挂的 细布帘子，乍看仿如吹皱的风帆，无处不 是南洋风情，像在天堂一般。 Honi Honi 主打新鲜热带水果酒饮，吧 台后方的调酒师们一刻不得闲，忙着将香 味四溢的芒果削皮、西瓜囊肉取出，把新 鲜多汁的果肉倒进果汁机处理。 Max 自豪 表示 ： 「我们是货真价实的 Tiki 主题酒吧， 这词最早由贸易商 Vic 所提出，把钟情的 玻里尼西亚文化介绍到欧美等国，新鲜、 放松及户外是其三大重点所在。我们每天 用新鲜水果以及手边最棒的酒类制作风格 独具的酒饮。」

酒吧往外，是一片竹篱笆围着的热带 花园。深绿色的树叶及异国植物让人暂时 远离熙攘的街景及商店，安然置身于此遗 世丛林中。想淋个雨的客人，也可利用雨 林装置痛快一番，尽享度假氛围。酒吧经 理 Fabien Marcault 就 说 ： 「海滩派对每隔 一个礼拜天举行，客人穿着海滩装出席， 到热带雨林大玩特玩，阳光普照的午后， 到这准没错。」 各式水果鸡尾酒不仅沁凉爽口，更以 多种别出心裁的特殊容器装盛，令人惊喜。 有木刻杯、传统 tiki 南洋面具图腾的陶杯， 甚或是挖空的西瓜等鲜果也能满注酒饮， 新鲜上桌。 Max 还提出店里的另一大特色： 「我们提供 Sharing Cocktail。香港人喜欢吃 桌菜，点了满桌料理一起分享，我留意到 客人来酒吧也会点自己喝的，再交换品尝。 所以我就想，何不为客人特制大型份量的 酒饮，供大家一起共享，好玩又过瘾。」 Fabien 现场用带有焦黄琥珀色泽、瓜

地马拉的「Zacapa」兰姆酒调酒，搭配细 长草绳编织腰封的酒杯上桌。 Max 为我们 介绍 ： 「Zacapa 兰姆酒效果无懈可击，入口 带有蜂蜜及香草的甜味，还有些微呛辣感， 直接加冰块喝，或简单加几种酒类去调都 能尝得到 Zacapa 独特的滋味。」 不过 Fabien 今天调的稍微复杂一些， 他说 ： 「tiki 系列鸡尾酒通常会用大量冰块， 让鸡尾酒持久清爽冰凉。真正好的酒才能 做出好的饮品，发挥经典味道的独到风格。」 Fabien 小心翼翼、顺着人脸图腾的咖 啡色 tiki 酒杯杯缘旋转，旁边还散落许多 椰子碎末。 Fabien 混和兰姆酒、凤梨汁及 椰子水后，加上少许椰肉及杏仁糖浆，最 后再放入大量冰块。「椰子水与兰姆酒简 直是天作之合，加上水分丰沛，炎炎夏日 享用真是锦上添花。」从酒杯正面看，椰 肉正好就在人脸上方，有如光圈一般，Fabien 也才将调酒取名为「Tiki Angel」。 虽然加了果汁及糖浆，「Tiki Angel」并 不会过甜，喝起来反而相当爽口清凉，尝 得到椰子水的纯味、令人神清气爽，兰姆 酒的香草气息也会在口中散开，就像 Fabien 说的 ： 「这款调酒沁凉十足，百分之百 tiki，名字也取得恰到好处。」 说到这 Max 也忍不住插嘴 ： 「我超爱 取名字的。不过当时为了给酒吧​​取 一个让 人印象深刻的名字，真的快想破头了。我 碰巧注意到一款兰姆调酒叫『Honi Honi』， 谐音就和香港女生喜欢叫男朋友『Honey』 一样，又有甜食的意思，一切都太巧了。 加上有人和我说『Honi Honi』字义代表玻 里尼西亚的传统会面，会晤的两人会边吸 气边将鼻子靠在一起，有点像法国人见面 会亲吻一样，根本就是玻里尼西亚式的礼 貌性亲吻！这可真是天作之合啊！」 september 2013

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sponsored feature

精挑细选

a fine selection Filippo Benicini has the kind of job that makes other gourmets envious. Head of Cheese and Deli at Great Food Hall, the high-end grocer at Hong Kong’s upscale Pacific Place mall, he spends his days tasting and evaluating the world’s most sought-after luxury food products, from Italy’s Dolce Nero black truffles to heritage jamón sourced from Hungary’s Mangelica pigs. If you’re susceptible to envy, it gets worse. The store has recently opened a room dedicated to artisanal cheeses from all around the world. It’s a big room, the cheeses are amazing and Filippo is in charge.

But there is a catch: Filippo’s “office” is permanently chilled to 11 degrees Celsius at 80% humidity, an environment that’s imperative to keeping cheese in top condition.

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Hong Kong’s cheese lovers finally have a room of their own.

“It’s not the cold that worries me, I’m from Northern Italy,” says Filippo, who rarely wears anything warmer than his standard white chef ’s linens. “It’s the dampness that really chills you – it’s not like mountain air.

I try to come out once every hour, to warm up for a few minutes.”

Not that he’s complaining. It might be cold, but for a cheese lover it’s close to paradise: “We have over 280 types of cheese here, which is the largest selection in Hong Kong by far,” says Filippo. The Cheese Room is impressive not just for the sheer number of cheeses on offer, but for a depth of selection which includes rarer and lesser-known

artisanal cheeses. “Of course, sales are important,” says Filippo. “But I am given a lot of freedom to choose based on my personal taste as well.”

When pressed, Filippo nominates Parmigiano-Reggiano as his favorite cheese.

It’s made a mere ten miles from his childhood home and Filippo says he values the cheese not only for its savory, nutty flavor, but also for the happy memories it evokes: “I think for everyone, the food they love the best is the food that can take them back to childhood and happy memories of family.

Of all food, it is cheese that for me has that special ability.”

Filippo Benicini 主掌香港一流商城太古广 场「Great」美食天地的起司熟食专柜，每 天品尝、评鉴来自各国的梦幻奢华食材， 如意大利的「Dolce Nero」黑松露或匈牙 利「Mangelica」猪肉特制的顶级火腿等， 这简直是老饕们梦寐以求的工作。专柜近 来更开了专属空间来展售全球各地的高级 起司。偌大空间里能发现各式经手工严选 的起司。大感赞叹同时，也对 Filippo 能在 此当家艳羡不已。 但可别羡慕的太早，Filippo 的「办公 室」 ，即起司的储蓄室需经年保持在恒温摄 氏十一度及湿度百分之八十的环境下，才 能让起司品质不坠。不过 Filippo 倒是说得 云淡风清 ： 「我来自北意，其实不太怕冷」 。 的确 , 平常除了制式的主厨亚麻白袍外，他 也甚少加上什么保暖配件。 「倒是湿气，可 没像高山上的清新空气那么干燥透爽，真

的会让人打从骨子里冷起来，每个小时都 要出来几分钟暖暖身才行。 」 Filippo 可没有一丝抱怨之意，冷归冷， 但对起司迷来说，这里和天堂可几乎没什 么两样，他自豪表示 ： 「我们的起司专柜 全港最大，超过 280 种，应有尽有。」除 了种类繁多，专柜还搜罗了各地稀有少见 的手工起司，更是备受好评。「当然，业 绩 也 很 重 要， 大 体 上 我 都 能 随 心 拣 出 自 己认可的起司。」Filippo 透露心中的最爱 就是出产地离幼时住家仅有十英里远的 「Parmigiano-Reggiano」。 他 强 调， 一 件 高 品质起司，不仅在味道及令人着迷的浓郁 气味上要取胜，能否让人联想到往昔的快 乐回忆也是重点所在 ： 「对许多人而言，最 爱的食物能让他们重温小时侯和家庭的开 心时光。对我来说，所有食物当中就属起 司有这个神奇魔力。」

Filippo Benicini

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filippo’s favorites

St Marcellin from Isère in the Rhone Alps, France. A very soft cow’s milk creamy cheese with 50% fat content. The degree of ‘runniness’ increases with age as the exterior turns from blue-ish to yellow. “This is perfect with a Côtes Du Rhône red or a good pinot noir,” says Filippo. 法国隆河阿尔卑斯区度假城镇Isère 出产之牛奶起司「St Marcellin」，质地软嫩绵密，脂肪比例 高达五成。 「松软」程度随时间增 加，外皮也会逐渐从蓝色转为黄 色。 Filippo表示：「搭配隆河 坡地区(Côtes Du Rhône)红 酒或黑皮诺(pinot noir)酿 制的好酒再适合不过。」

Etivaz d’Alpage A.O.C. from the Canton of Vaud, Switzerland. Aged for up to 13 months, this cow’s milk cheese has the aroma of fine Swiss alpine herbs and a slightly fruity, aromatic taste. Pair with a pinot noir. 瑞士Canton of Vaud 的「Etivaz d’Alpage AOC 」起司。此款 牛奶起司经13个月熟成， 散发瑞士阿尔卑斯高山 植物的清新香气，味 道则带一丝果味及 馨香，适合搭配 黑皮诺葡萄 酒享用。

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Shropshire Blue from Nottinghamshire, England. The name is misleading: this creamy blue cheese with a slightly yeasty bite actually has its origins in Inverness.

Described as a cross between Stilton and Cheshire, Filippo recommends serving it as part of a cheese dessert plate. 奶香浓郁，带着一丝发酵呛味的英国诺丁罕 郡「Shropshire Blue」蓝起司其实并非如其名 来自Shropshire， 而是源于 Inverness。味道 介于「Stilton」及 「Cheshire」两种 起司之间，建议置 于综合点心盘与他 种起司一起享用。

Ossau-Iraty A.O.C. from Northern Basque County, France. Neither bitter nor sweet, this ewe’s milk cheese has an aging time of 90 days and includes an edible moldy tart rind.

Gentle and pleasing with a rich smooth finish. 法国北巴斯克区「Ossau-Iraty AOC」起 司。此款母羊奶制成的起司不苦 也不甜，熟成期为90天， 发霉的外皮也可一并食 用。口感鲜软、余 韵滑顺且层次丰 富，令人一尝 便爱上它。

Pouligny St Pierre from Central France. Legend has it that the distinctive incomplete pyramid shape of this soft goat’s milk cheese came about when Napoleon Bonaparte, still incensed by his doomed foray into Egypt, came upon the cheese at a small town in the region. The original pyramid structure allegedly brought back too many unpleasant memories, so he lopped off the top with his sword. 产于法国中部的「Pouligny St Pierre」山 羊奶起司形状类似残缺的金字塔，质地软 嫩。相传拿破仑某次于中部地区小镇看 到此金字塔形状的起司，想起远征埃及失 利，愤而砍掉顶端才变成目前的形状。 september 2013

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红酒贵公子

wine player For more than a decade, Paolo Pong has been helping shape and transform Hong Kong’s wine tastes.

Twelve years ago Paolo Pong saw a gap in the Hong Kong wine market and founded Altaya Wines – a wholesale wine merchant giving private investors and trade customers access to the world’s best and rarest wines. His vision had a powerful influence on the Hong Kong wine scene, opening up the world of small boutique producers to the Hong Kong consumer and awakening winemakers around the globe to the importance of Hong Kong as a serious player in the market. TK caught up with him to ask about how the wine scene in Hong Kong has evolved over the last decade.

§ 十二年前，庞建贻看准香港尚未成熟的红酒市场，创立「大亚洋酒」，为 私人投资商及金字塔顶端的商业客户引荐世界一流且稀有的酒品。「大亚洋 酒」就此改写香港红酒市场的生态，让香港品酒人士有机会接触来自世界各 地的一流小型酒庄，也让香港一跃成为全球重要的红酒市场，变成各大酒商 的兵家必争之地。庞建贻接受 TK专访，畅谈香港红酒市场近十年的发展。

When did you become interested in wine?

In my university days I attended master classes and tastings. I was in Boston at the time, but I would make special trips to New York and sometimes even to London just to taste wine. That’s my passion. That is really how I got into wine seriously. I also made friends with some of the critics and they really taught me a lot. People like Jancis Robinson and Michael Broadbent.

They would see this young kid attending all

何时开始对葡萄酒产生兴趣？ 大学时期我住在波士顿，但为了大师 班及品酒课，经常就大老远跑到纽约、甚 至伦敦上课，下了极大功夫去研究葡萄酒， 大概就是那时候开始认真思考红酒事业的 可能性。我与不少酒评家变成朋友，也从 他们身上学了很多。每课必到，渐渐有机 会与 Jancis Robinson 及 Michael Broadbent 等赫赫有名的专家熟识、聚会并深入讨论 红酒。那是 90 年代末期吧，在 2000 年毕 业后，也承蒙他们的推荐信，让我有机会 远赴酒乡波尔多学艺。最开始我在酿酒世

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these events – we became quite close and started our own gatherings, where we would really discuss wine. That was the late 90s.

Once I graduated in 2000 they very kindly wrote me reference letters so I could go off to Bordeaux to learn about wine. First thing I did when I got there was to work the harvest for the famous Moeuix family who own Chateau Petrus.

It was fascinating, really hands-on – hard work but that’s how you get close to the earth, soil and grapes. It was a wonderful experience and I learned a lot. I started to respect the subject a lot more. I realized it’s not just about drinking wine at a fine dining restaurant; it’s not about the fancy service provided by a great sommelier. It’s about the hard work behind the scenes that you don’t really see. This was the turning point for me – I thought this could be an interesting industry to get into. And subsequently I went to Cheval Blanc to learn about the winemaking side. I participated in every little step from cleaning barrels upwards.

I learned about the whole process. It’s an experience I treasure a lot.

What was the wine scene like in Hong Kong then?

At that point it was dominated by a handful of big players – commercial brands that were heavily advertised and ubiquitous.

Pretty much every five-star restaurant and all the restaurant groups had the same wines offered on their lists. That’s when I thought it would be a great idea to start importing boutique brands – mainly family-owned estates that were not represented at that stage in Hong Kong.

That was a wise move when I look back.

Once the consumer’s palate is no longer satisfied by the major brands, they start looking elsewhere – they start looking for the unique product.

What challenges did you face when you started Altaya?

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It took a few years before some of the boutique winemakers agreed to export to Hong Kong – many of them did not know exactly where Hong Kong was! It took a lot of hard work. At the consumer end major hotels or restaurant groups found it easier to work with a few big players, who could provide them with all the products they needed, both wines and spirits. I was a small, young wine merchant going into these five-star hotels and asking them to put my wines on the list. A few gave me opportunities. A few took one or two years of constantly knocking on the door. But it paid off.

undiscovered and have some wonderful value wines. In Burgundy and Champagne there are countless small producers, who realize they have this golden piece of land and are making more and more interesting wines.

So we decided to focus on these regions and to do a lot of tastings and classes to help customers learn more about them. We have two to three events per week – both in-depth and introductory courses – teaching people about the different regions, and offering more detailed tastings of how the vineyards can differ within a certain village in Burgundy. There is so much to discover!

And what is the wine scene like now?

If you open any wine list now in Hong Kong, you will find bigger brand wines alongside those from smaller or boutique producers. It’s quite rewarding to see the change in the last decade. It is not only me – there are other young companies springing up that have also influenced the change.

Ten years ago there were a lot of people who really appreciated wine in Hong Kong – now even more people do. Ten years ago many suppliers thought their own national markets were enough for them. Now they realize the need to think about the Asian market. We have a different role now.

Not only are we growing in terms of wine consumption but we also lead the trend for a lot of the mainland market. Suppliers look at Hong Kong from a very different perspective from before.

What are some up and coming wine regions?

I will not shut the door to any region. If dedicated people find that magical spot, they can make very nice wine. We import wines from England – we have this wonderful sparkling wine called Chapel Down. They served it at the royal wedding. At some point someone will find a very interesting terroir in China and be able to make high quality wines there too. I think China is the next place to look: Shandong, Xinjiang, Shaanxi.

It will take a lot of time to see the results, years to realize the whole project, as it is a long process. But it’s exciting!

Tell us about your three region-specific Etc wine shops. Where did the idea come from?

First from my passion for these three regions – Burgundy, Champagne and Bordeaux – and for the variety of wines they offer. These are three areas that Hong Kong people recognize too and I also believed they would enjoy getting to know them better. The satellite regions of Bordeaux are reasonably

HK has now arrived as a wine-loving city – when did you notice the change?

The big turning point was 2008 when the Hong Kong Government abolished tax on wine – suppliers really started looking at this market and began travelling here extensively and hosting events several times a year.

Producers, even small producers, began allocating us more wines. They realized the Hong Kong market was becoming very important and would become increasingly so for the next twenty to thirty years, so they need to feed the market with wine. Hong Kong is now the place to sell wine and we are very lucky to be doing that.

家 Moeuix 旗下的「柏翠山庄」从事第一线 农事工作。 每天与土地、土壤及葡萄接触，虽然 是苦差事，但绝对是不可取代的难得经验， 让我获益良多。我对酿酒业因此也有了进 一步的认识及尊敬，除了坐在高级餐厅品 评红酒，享受侍酒师以客为尊的顶级服务 外，背后还有鲜为人知、点点滴滴的辛勤 投入及努力。也在此时我首次萌生以红酒 为业的想法，算是人生的一大转捩点。后 来我转入「白马庄园 (Cheval Blanc)」修习 酿酒技术，从清洗酒桶开始，不放过任何 一个小步骤，最终才得以学到全貌，整个 过程至今都让我回味、珍惜不已。

当时香港的葡萄酒市场是怎样？ 几乎是由几家商业大酒商所主宰，他 们重金下广告，无所不在。走遍任何一家 五星级餐厅或餐饮集团，酒单几乎大同小 异。所以我才会想做专门代理顶级葡萄酒 的生意，当时这些酿酒世家所产的一流佳 酿在香港市场几乎都看不到。现在看来， 当时的决定是正确的。当大酒商无法满足 消费者的胃口时，就是我的机会。消费者 会放宽眼光，寻找独特的产品。毕竟他们 也想与朋友分享新玩意。 「大亚洋酒」创立初期面临何种挑战？ 与一流酒庄交涉可不容易，常常一谈 好几年才获首肯，更别说有些连香港在哪 都不知道的，更是难上加难！没有全神投

入真的做不来。就消费者端来看，主流大 饭店或餐饮集团与市场大酒商常是一拍即 合，轻轻松松就能取得各式葡萄酒及烈酒 等所需产品。但我当时年轻、加上还是个 小小的进口商，要与五星级饭店合作谈何 容易，有些愿意给我机会，也有要花上一 两年才能打通关的，不过一切都是值得的。

现在香港的葡萄酒市场您又怎么看？ 现在到香港餐厅打开酒单，可以看到 除了大厂牌外，还有来自小型酿酒商及酒 庄的葡萄酒。十年过去，出现这种转变真 的让人很欣慰。不只我，还要归功市场上 其他的年轻公司大力投入，才造就目前这 种局面。十年前香港就有很多懂酒的人， 当时很多酒商都自满于内需市场，现在也 意识到将触角延伸到其他亚洲国家的重要 性。我们的角色与过去已大不相同，香港 的葡萄酒消费曲线在不断成长之余，也站 上了领导内地市场趋势的置高点。香港在 世界酒商眼中已不能同日而语了。 Etc 专卖店的构想从何而来？ 首先我对勃艮地、香槟区及波尔多三 大酒乡早已钟情多年，出产的多种葡萄酒 我也非常喜爱。香港酒迷们对这三大区域 也不陌生，相信也乐意进一步探索其奥妙。 波尔多邻近的卫星城镇虽然较不受重视， 但也出产多支顶级佳酿 ；勃艮地及香槟区 则有不可计数的小型酒庄运用天赐的黄金 风土条件，精酿出一支支引人入胜的葡萄

酒。所以我们决定聚焦于这些区域，透过 品酒会及相关课程增进顾客对葡萄酒的了 解。每周都有两三次入门及进阶课程，引 领学员认识不同区域的特色，藉由详细的 品酒解说，介绍伯艮地同一村庄中不同葡 萄园所产红酒的细微差异。可以学的很多！

接下来看好哪些葡萄酒新兴区域？ 任何区域都有发展的潜力。只要有心、 锲而不舍地寻找上佳地点，都有可能酿制 一流的美酒。像我们就有一款英国进口的 气泡酒叫「Chapel Down」，品质极佳，为 皇室婚礼御用。说不定之后也会有人在中 国找到风土俱佳的地方，开始生产高品质 的葡萄酒。中国绝对值得密切注意 ：山东、 新疆及陕西都大有可为。可能需费时许久 才能看到成果、甚至花上好几年才有整体 计画付诸实行，绝非一蹴可几，但前景着 实让人兴奋不已！ 红酒蔚为风潮，香港也已成为美酒之都。 您何时注意到此一转变？ 香港政府 2008 年起废除征收葡萄酒 税，是一大转捩点。自此许多酒商正视香 港市场、频繁造访，每年举办多次活动 ； 眼看香港市场不断茁壮，此一趋势可能未 来二三十年不歇，越来越多酿酒商、甚或 小型酒庄也欲占得先机，开始大量供应各 种不同的葡萄酒。香港现在可说是酒商的 梦幻之地，身为其中一员，我真的觉得很 幸运。 september 2013

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tK" Where to Find tK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RestauRants 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur

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Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat Bricklane Brivo Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Brunch Club Bulldog's Bar & Grill Cafe by the Park Cafe Deco Cafe Elite Cafe Eos Club Cafe Gray Deluxe Café Iguana Café Locomotive Café Loisl Café Muse Cafe O Café on the 1st Cafe Rivoli Cafe TOO Cafe Zambra Cammino Caprice Carousel Fine Cake & Pastries Carpaccio Casa Fina Casa Lisboa Portuguese Restaurant & Bar Casablanca Oyster Steak Restaurant Cecconi's Italian Census Lounge Cepage C'est la B Chesa Chez Moi Chez Patrick Deli Chez Shibata Chikayaki Chilli Fagara Chocolate Chum Chum Mi CIN CIN Ristorante Circle Oyster Classified Mozzarella Bar Classified The Cheese Room Club Chow Club de Flavor Club Havana coast Cocky Bar Cova Café - Admiralty Cova Café - Lee Gardens Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria Cova Ristorante & Caffe Coyote Bar & Grill Craftsteak Cuisine Cuisine - IFC Cutty Sark Da Ping Huo Daddyos Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill Dap Modern European Restaurant Delaney's Wanchai Délifrance Devil's Advocate Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Domani Ristorante Double Happiness Café Duetto Dynasty - Wanchai Eat Right edo & bibo Oyster & Steak House EL CID Spanish Restaurant

september 2013

El Pomposo Estudio F.A.B French - American Bistro Fandango Spanish Restaurant Fat Angelo's Felix FINDS Fish Bar & Grill Flame at Towngas Avenue Fleur de Sel Flute Bar Flutes Champagne and Cocktail Bar Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai Forum Restaurant Fresh Café & Bar Frites Belgium on Tap Fu Ho Restaurant - TST Fuel Espresso Full/half Gaddi's Gaia Ristorante Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gemini glo restaurant + lounge Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Gokayama Gold By Harlan Goldstein Grand Central Bar & Grill Grappa's Ristorante Grecoπ Green Grill Cafe Handle Bar Harbour Restaurant Hard Rock Café Harlan's Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar Hoi King Heen Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk Restaurant Holly Brown Hong Kong University Alumni Association Hooray Bar & Restaurant HOUSE il meglio Ristorante di Venezla Il Moro iL Posto 97 Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - Causeway Bay Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - TST Island Tang Isola Italian No.5 Iwanami Jaa Kitchen Japas Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Jimmy's Kitchen Joe Bananas Joe's Billiards & Bar Joia Kaiko Teppanyaki Katte Shabushabu King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, Wanchai) Kitchen 65 Kitchen M Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar Kosyu Kowloon Tang KYOTO JOE L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon

La Bodega La Bon Restaurant & Lounge La Bon’s Café la brezza café La Cantoche La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar LA Creperie La Cucina Italiana La Maison La Pampa La Parole La Serene Caffè La TASCA La Terrasse l'altro Lattitude 22⁰ LaVilla TST Lawry's the Prime Rib Le Gouter Bernardaud (ICC, IFC) Le Marron Le Mieux Bistro Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant Galerie) Le Salon Restaurant et Croissanterie Le Souk Lei Garden - IFC Life Lil' Siam Limehouse Linguini Fini Lobby Lounge Louis' Steak House Lung King Heen LUPA LUX Bistro & Bar Magnolia Mangrove Bar & Restaurant Marlin Mask of Si Chuen McSorley's Ale House Merhaba Mes Amis Metropolitan Café Ming Court Mini Dans la Ville Mirror MiSet Restaurant Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining Moon Thai Mr. Steak Grill Ms B's Cakery Munch Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Nahm Vietnamese & Thai Nan Tei Nepal Nicholini's Nico's Oceanna Okaki Ole Spanish Restaurant Oliver's Super Sandwiches (Cheong Kong Centre, Hong Kong Station) Oliver's Super Sandwiches Melbourne Plaza One-Thirtyone Only Buonasera Oolaa Oolaa petite Orange Tree Restaurant Otto Restaurant & Bar OWL Our Wonderland Oysters Bar & Restaurant Papa Razzi Papi Pastis Bistro Francais Peace Square Peak Café Bar

Pearl on the Peak Peking Garden Restaurant Petrus Pier 7 Cafe & Bar Pierre PizzaExpress, Central PizzaExpress, Wanchai Pizzazaza Podium Cafe Portobello Posto Pubblico PRIME steakhouse Red Bar & Restaurant Red Rock Bar & Grill Rei Restoration Rex Caffe Roka Rouge Royal Feast Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen Ruth's Chris Steak House Sabatini Ristorante Italiano Sabor Spanish Touch Private Kitchen Sahara Mezz Bar Sakaegawa Japanese Resaturant Sake Bar GINN Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar Scirocco Serenade Sevva Shanghai Fraternity Association Shanghai Jade Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo Shore Steak Shui Hu Ju Simplylife Bakery Cafe Simplylife Bread & Wine SML Social House Socialito SoHo Spice Vietnamese & Thai Solas Sole mlo Sorriso Italian Cuisine Spasso Italian bar SPICE Spicy Fingers Spoil Cafe Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon St.George Star Restaurant Starz Wine Bar Staunton's Wine Bar & Café Steik World Meats Stone's Stormies Studio City Studio Nineteen Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar Summer Palace Sunning Restaurant Sushi Hiro Sushi Imamura Sushi Kuu Sushi Shin T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar Tai Ping Koon Restaurant Tandoor T'ang Court Taste Tate Dining Room & Bar Teppanyaki Kaika Tequila Jack's Thai Orchids Café & Bar KLN Bay Thai Orchids Café & Bar Mongkok

The Box The Dutch Cheese and More The Fifties The Flying Pan The French Window The Great Indian Kebab Factory The Junk Pub The Lobby The Lotus The Parlour The Pawn The Peak Lookout The Press Room The Principal The Quarterdeck Club The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Queen Victoria The Salted Pig The Square The Steak Kitchen Bar & Restaurant The Swiss Chalet The Wheel Tiffin Tim's Kitchen Tivo Tivoli Italian Restaurant Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen Trattoria Doppio Zero Tutto Bene Twyst Uno Duo Trio - Lana's Italian Home Cooking Up Va Bene Van Gogh Kitchen Via 28 Ristorante View 62 by Paco Roncero Vivo W28 Steak House Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant Wagyu Kaiseki Den Wagyu Lounge Wanya Japanese Restaurant Watson's Wine SoHo Weinstube Westwood Carvery Wildfire Wildfire pizzabar & Grill Wing's Kitchen Wooloomooloo Prime Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Wyndham the 4th Xi Yan Sweets Yan Toh Heen Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai Yi Pai Ya Yorkshire Pudding Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant Zelo Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar Zen Zentro Bar & Eatery ZOO Zummer 四合軒

Clubhouses United Services Recreation Club Pacific club HK Bartender's & Sommelier's Association Aberdeen Marina Club American Club - Hong Kong Country Club American Club - Town Club Asia Golf Club Caldecott Hill Chinese Recreation Club

tK" Where to Find tK 《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

Continental Club Craigengower Cricket Club Discovery Bay Recreation Club Fairview Park Country Club Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Gold Coast Resident's Club House Gold Coast Yacht and Country Club Harbour Front Club House Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Country Club Hong Kong Cricket Club Hong Lok Yuen Country Club Kerry Property Management services Ltd (15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, September Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Pacific Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Septemberfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

Wine and GouRmet shops Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté - Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté - Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine Sino Vantage Asia Limited

Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

hotels City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon Hotel Jen Hotel LKF by Rhombus Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui InterContinental Grand Standford InterContinental Hong Kong Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Kowloon Shangri-La Lan Kwai Fong Hotel Langham Place, Mongkok, HK Lanson Place Hotel Le Meridien Cyberport L'hotel Island South Luk Kwok Hotel Mandarin Oriental Peninsula Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Regal Hong Kong Hotel Regal Hotels International Regal Kowloon Hotel Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Hong Kong Rosedale on the Park HK Royal Garden Hotel Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers Royal Plaza Hotel Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers SkyCity Marriott Hotel The Kowloon Hotel The Landmark Mandarin Oriental The Luxe Manor The Park Lane Hong Kong The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong

aiRline lounGes CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST Virgin Clubhouse

Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets (HK) Ltd Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VanGo Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

bookshops Mandarin Oriental Kiosk Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Books Hits Media Center Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimes Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd. Cham Kee Tung Son Yung Kee Great Food Park N' Shop (Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAu hotels Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura

Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Sofitel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RestauRants 11 Cafe 360° Café A Lorcha A Petisqueira ABA Bar Albergue 1601 Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu Bar Azul Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Camoes Restaurant Cascades China Rouge City Café Clube Militar de Macau Conrad the Lounge Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppacoffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Dynasty 8 EDO Japanese @ One Central Edo Japanese Restaurant Edo Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant EDO Japanese Restaurant COD Edo Restautant Festiva Fogosamba Fortune Inn Restaurant Ginza Kaiten Sushi Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kam Lai Heen King of Kings Kira

Kwun Hoi Heen L'Arc Coffee Shop L'Arc Lounge L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan Laurel Laurel Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Litoral Restaurant Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macallan Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie MGM Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Nagomi O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee Pacific Coffee COD Pacific Coffee Galaxy Pacific Coffee SCC Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurante Fernando Rossio Royal Orchid Saffron Sakazuki Savory Crab Shanghainese 456 Singing Bean Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Tenmasa Terrace Terrazza The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Tasting Room by Galliot Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda

september 2013

Vasco Vergnano Italian Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Westin The Lounge Windows Restaurant Windsor Lounge Xin Yamazato Ying Zi Yat Heen

Clubhouses Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

pRiVate bankinG Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

GouRmet shop & Wine shop Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd.

Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

spas Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

tRansit Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

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restaurant listings FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE Belon 贝隆 French 31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路 澳门悦榕庄31楼 q (853) 8883 6090 Bar : Wed to Mon, 6pm – 12am Dinner : Wed to Mon, 6pm – 11pm Closed on Tuesdays A Smart casual 5

Café Deco 峰景餐厅 Western Level 1 & 2,The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road,The Peak, Hong Kong 香港山顶山顶道118号山顶 广场1-2楼101及201号铺 q (852) 2849 5111 Sun to Thurs: 11am to 11pm Fri and Sat: 11am to 11:30pm A Smart casual 5

China Rouge 红伶 Private Members Club Hotel, Macau Avenida De Cotai, Taipa, Macau 澳门路氹城大 马路澳门银河酒店 q (853) 2888 0888 Closed on Mondays & Tuesdays 5

Galaxy

Classic Fine Foods Kong Unit 201, Kerry Warehouse 4-6 Kwai Tai Road, Kwai Chung, N.T, HongKong 香港 新界葵涌葵泰路4-6号嘉里货仓 201室 q (852) 2612 2066

Dot Cod Seafood Restaurant & Oyster Bar Seafood Basement, Prince’s Building, 10 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环遮打道10号太子大 厦地库B4 q (852) 2810 6988 Mon to Sat 7.30 am - 11.30 pm A Smart Casual 5

B4,

Fish Bar Seafood 7/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港金钟金 钟道88号太古广场香港JW万豪酒 店7楼平台 q (852) 2810 8366 (Reservations required) Mon to Sun: 12pm-10:30pm A Smart Casual

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Portuguese G21, G/F, East Promenade, Galaxy Macau™, COTAI, Macau 澳门路氹 城「澳门银河™」综合渡假城购 物大道东地下G21号舖 q (853) 8883 2221 Mon to Fri: 12pm – 3pm;6pm – 11pm Sat, Sun & Public Holiday 12pm – 11pm A Casual 5

Golden Flower 京花轩 Wynn

Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape, Macau 永利澳门酒 店澳门外港填海区仙德丽街 q (853) 8986 3663 Tue.-Fri. 6pm-10:30pm Sat.-Sun. 11:30am-2:30pm; 6pm-10:30pm A Casual Elegant

Guincho a Galera 葡国餐厅 Portuguese Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa, 2-4 Avenida de Lisboa, Praia Grande, Macau 澳门南湾葡京路 2-4号葡京酒店西座3楼 q (853) 8803 7676 Lunch: 12pm-02:30pm Dinner: 06:30pm- 10:30pm A Smart casual 5

3/F

Honi Honi Taki Cocktail Lounge 3/F Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街52号 Somptueux 3楼 q (852) 2353 0885 Mon – Fri: 3:30pm - 2am Saturday: 6pm - 2am Sunday: 3pm - 11pm A Casual 5

Hong

5

Gosto 葡轩

IFC Lei Garden Restaurant 中环利苑 Cantonese No. 3007-11, 3/F., International Finance Centre, Hong Kong 香港中环港景街1号国 际金融中心商场3008至3011店 q (852) 2295 0238 11:30am- 3pm; 6pm- 11:30pm A Casual 5

Shop

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩 Chinese Level 2, The Shops at The Boulevard,City of Dreams,Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹 连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道二楼 q (853) 8868 2822 11am – 3pm; 6pm – 11pm A Smart Casual 5

september 2013

Krug Room 库克厅 Progressive Gastronomy/Modern 1/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东 方酒店1楼 q (852) 2825 4014 Mon-Sat 7:30pm A Smart casual 5

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon French Contemporary Shop 315 & 401, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central District, Hong Kong 香港中环德辅道中12-16号置地广 场4楼401号铺 q (852) 2166 9000 Lunch: 12:00pm-2:30pm Dinner: 6:30pm-10:30pm A Smart casual 5

le Salon De Thé de Joël robuchon French, Bakery, Coffee & Tea Shop Shop 315 - 3/F, The Landmark, 15 Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong 中环皇后大道中 15 号置地广场 3 楼 315 号铺 q (852) 2166 9088 Mon-Sun 8am-8pm (Last Order) Lunch: Mon-Sun Starts at 12pm Afternoon Tea: Mon-Sun Starts at 3pm Happy Hour and/or Dinner: Mon-Sun Starts at 6pm A Casual 5

MIZUMI 「泓」日本料理 5

永利澳门酒店澳门外港填海区仙 德丽街 q (853) 8986 3663

Mon.-Sun. 5:30pm-11:30pm Closed on Tuesday A Smart casual

Oyster & Wine Bar 蚝酒吧 5

French 6th Floor, Tiffan Tower, 199 Wanchai Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong 舖香港湾仔湾仔道199号天辉中心 6楼 q (852) 2573 7288 (Reservation hotline from 10:30am-6:00pm) Mon-Sat: 12pm- 10:30pm A Smart Casual 5

Seafood 18/F,

Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel

& Towers, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀弥敦道20号香港喜来 登酒店18楼 q (852) 2810 6166

Mon - Thurs: 6:30 pm - 1am; Fri - Sat: 6pm - 2am; Sun: 12pm - 3pm; 6:30 pm-1am; Public Holiday: 6:30pm- 2am A Smart casual

Renaissance Harbour View Hotel Hong Kong 香港万丽海景酒店 1

Harbour Rd, Hong Kong

香港湾仔港湾道 1 号 q (852) 2802 8888

Ristorante il Teatro 帝雅廷意大利餐廳 5

Italian 1/F,

c, Rua Cidade de Sintra,

NAPE,Alameda

5

Mirror Restaurant

Macau, Rua Cidade de

Sintra, Nape, Macau

Mayta Peruvian 3rd Floor, Grand Progress Building,15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环兰桂坊15号协兴大厦3楼 q (852) 2790 0928 Mon-Sun: 12:00pm-3:00pm; 6:00pm-11:00pm A Smart Casual

Japanese Wynn

Dutor Carlos

d'Assumpção 澳门宋玉生广场(皇朝)外港填海区 仙德丽街永利澳门酒店一楼 q (853) 8986 3663

Mon.-Sun.:18:00-23:30 A Smart casual

Prince Restaurant 王子饭店 5

Cantonese Shop

209, 2A Canton Road 1881

Heritage, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀广东道2A 1881 Hertitage 209号舖 q (852) 2366 1308

Mon- Sat :11:00am5:00pm/6:00pm- Till end Sun & Public Holidays : 10:00am A Casual

restaurant listings the lounge & Bar

Bar Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Ctr. 1 Autsin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀柯士甸道西1号环球贸 易广场 (ICC)香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 102楼 q (852) 2263 2270 Mon-Fri: Buffet Breakfast - 6.30 a.m. to 10.30 a.m.

Sat, Sun & Public Holiday:Buffet Breakfast - 6.30 a.m. to 11 a.m.

Lunch – 12 p.m. to 2 p.m.

Afternoon Tea - 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Dinner – 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. (with live Jazz band performance) Fri and Sat: 11am to 11:30pm A Smart casual 5

tosca Italian 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce Ctr., 1 Autsin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀柯士甸道西1号环球贸 易广场 (ICC)香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 102楼 q (852) 2263 2270 Mon-Sat: 12：00 p.m. to 2:30 p.m;6 :00p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Sun only: Brunch - 11:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Dinner - 6:00 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.

5

Hotel okura Macau 澳门大仓酒店 Hotel Okura Macau, Galaxy Macau ™, COTAI, Macau 澳門大倉酒店 「 ™」 綜合渡假城 澳門路氹城 www.hotelokuramacau.com

2013

Prize Draw winners

the crystal Piano 水晶钢琴 5 Bar & Lounge 28/F

q +853 8883 5109 18:00–02:00 Closed Wed MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Pantone 451 •

C32 M27 Y57 K0

Free 1-year subscription to tk (6 issues) Carrina Chan, Managing Director, Saint Honore Cake Shop Ltd, Hong Kong

Level

Free Bottle of Moet & chandon champagne: Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒 5 Sake Bar

2/F q +853 8883 5125 16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun MOP 60 and up A Smart Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Whisk Contemporary European The Mira Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀弥敦道118号The Mira Hong Kong 5楼 q (852) 2315 5999

$500 Dining Voucher for Prive, Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 Geoffrey Thellier, Sales Co-ordinator HK – Macau

5

5/F,

SPONSORED

Romeo Alfonso, General Manager Sutherland Gastronomy, Hong Kong

Chocolaterie Valrhona, Hong Kong • Stephanie Dai, Senior Director – China Canada Beef, Shanghai, China Yamazato 山里裡 5 Japanese/Kaiseki

2/F q +853 8883 5127 12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun MOP 300 and up A Casual Chic H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Box of 15btls of karma cola Toby Cooper, The Globe, Hong Kong

Poker café

A unique poker-themed restaurant in Macau. 以撲克為主題， 最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。 5

International

Avenida

de Almeida Ribeiro, Avenida de Cinco de Outubro No. 147 新馬路十月初五街147號

q +853 28 924370 11:00-04:00

MOP

30 to 80

terrace restaurant 和庭餐厅 裡 5 International

2/F q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126 07:00–24:00 MOP 100 and up A Resort Casual H www.hotelokuramacau.com

Box of 15btls of Gingerella Kenneth Lam, Food & Beverage Manager Mr. Steak Concept, Hong Kong

september 2013

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SubScribe 25% off

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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Tasting Kitchen Attention: Terrie Lam 7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 39 Healthy East Street Quarry Bay, Hong Kong Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.”

dessert

At Galaxy Macau’s restaurant Gosto, Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil makes Sweet Rice Pudding Mousse, a delicious variation on a Portuguese classic. “It’s so simple,” he says. “Rice, cinnamon, milk and sugar. I have done a mousse to give it more texture, but the flavors are all there.” 澳门银河葡轩(Gosto)总厨马俊杰精心改良葡萄牙传统点心，特制滋味诱人的甜饭奶油布丁慕斯。他说： 「作法很简单，只要准备米、肉桂、牛奶和糖就好了。 在保证原汁原味的基础上，做慕斯是让层次更加丰富。」

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september 2013