TK55 Gifts from the Earth

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GIFTS FROM THE EARTH 55 HKD200 | MOP200 | RMB200 | NTD810 | SGD35 | USD26 | GBP20 TASTINGKITCHEN SOIL Macau’s Green Star 绿色新星 SEA Flavors of the Deep 海洋珍味 LAND A Heritage of Riches 传世珍材

TASTINGKITCHEN GIFTS FROM THE EARTH 55

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化,艺术设计,以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited • www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室

HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座

Mark Hammons

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey Cheang DEPUTY PUBLISHER 副出版人 joey@tasting-kitchen.com

Mamie Chen

Marilyn Burkley

Robert Burkley

SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

Zita Wan

Vivian Pun

Victoria Lei

ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑

Violien Ng

CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑

David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

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Kate Nicholson

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑-艺术设计专栏

Annabel Jackson

Ashley Tang

Daniel Cheung

Dorothy So

Juliana Loh

Lucy Jenkins

Lucy Morgan

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

ON THE COVER

Photography by David Hartung

Gifts from the Earth bring sustenance and delight to our lives. The sea brims with strange and delicious creatures that offer up their sweet and briny flavors to enjoy. And from the soil spring a cornucopia of colorful vegetables and lavish bouquets of fragrant herbs.

Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

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HEAD OF NEW MEDIA 新媒体总监

大地之恩,馈赠滋养,赐予 生活美食与欢愉。海洋中充 盈着奇异而美味的生物,它 们提供了甜美而咸鲜的风味 供我们享受。而从土壤中涌 现出五彩缤纷的蔬菜和芬芳 馥郁的香草花束。

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2024

All rights reserved

2 | TK | gifts from the earth
DAVID HARTUNG

ROOFTOP SPEAKEASY IN THE HEART OF BANGKOK at Rosewood Bangkok, Thailand

Lennon’s, a stylishly indoor speakeasy bars sits atop the 30th floor of Rosewood Bangkok, with city skyline views.

Designed as a whimsical tribute to a 70s-era home recording studio, it houses an interactive 6,000-LP collection, the largest assemblage of vinyl in Asia, as well as rare pre-Prohibition-era spirits and cigars.

Here guests can imbibe based on their favorite musical genre of recent decades. For 80s music fans, the “John Lennon” cocktail or perhaps “Donna Summer” for an immediate flashback to the iconic video. A little more edge is on offer with “Chantana Kittiyapan”; classy, old-school pleasure with the Sinatra-inspired “Fly Met to the Moon” cocktail.

Open daily from 6 p.m. to Midnight Tel: +66 2080 0030

www.rosewoodbangkok.com

FILIPPO SANCHI Director of Bars
#FeelingLikeABoss

Welcome to TK 55, Gifts from the Earth. Our theme, woven throughout the issue, is a celebration of our planet’s generous and nourishing bounty. Three cover stories span the globe to survey a profusion of wonderful things to eat from sea, land, and soil. We sample delicious foods that not only sustain our bodies, but also delight our senses, inform our cultures, and bring families and friends together in good times around the table.

“Flavors of the Deep” highlights the versatility and special qualities of Norwegian shellfish, a range of species that flourish in the ideal conditions of Norway’s cold, clear waters. Four noted Hong Kong chefs, each from his own culinary perspective, create dishes that bring out the briny best from sustainably harvested Norway lobsters, scallops, and red king crabs.

“A Heritage of Riches” tells of Britain’s time-honored farming traditions that protect and preserve the land while producing a wealth of products to share with the world. Three talented Hong Kong chefs express their personal styles in dishes that show off what the UK has to offer in artisanal cheeses and responsibly raised beef and pork.

Featured in “Macau’s Green Star” is the UTM Educational Restaurant, the city’s only recipient of the Michelin Green Star, awarded for achievements in sustainable practices. Its menu of Macanese, Portuguese, and Western dishes with a modern flair makes use of hyper-local produce –from eggplants to okra to lemon grass – raised in soil-filled containers on classroom rooftops.

Each of these stories, while opening the way to adventures in good eating, also reminds us that nature’s horn of plenty comes with a weighty responsibility, the duty to nurture, guard, and respectfully pass on to the future the fertile but fragile source of these gracious gifts from the earth.

亲爱的 TK 读者,展卷愉快。

欢迎阅览 TK 第 55 期《来自地球的恩赐》

(Gifts from the Earth),本期主题环绕人们 对于大自然产物丰饶的赏颂。 三篇封面故 事分别来自世界不同角落,让我们一窥海洋、 陆地与土壤赠予我们的种种美食佳肴。 这 些美食不仅满足口腹之欲,更是带来感官享 受、文化意义,以及与家人好友的欢聚时光。

「海洋珍味」(Flavors of the Deep)以 挪威寒冷清澈的理想渔场出产的甲壳海鲜为 题,聚焦这些海味料理上的多样性和独特性。 来自香港的四位名厨以他们独特的个人视 角,诠释这些永续捕捞方式获得的龙虾、扇 贝和红帝王蟹,创造出令人惊艳的大海之味。

「传世珍材」(A Heritage of Riches)带 您前往英国,深入了解这个拥有悠久历史的 国家的农畜产业传统。这些传统在环境保护 和土地保护的同时,成功地生产出一系列令 世界瞩目的农畜产品。三位充满才华的香港 厨师发挥个人风格,利用英国制造的手工乳 酪和以负责任方式饲养的肉类产品,展示了 英国农畜产业丰富的成果。

「绿色新星」(Macau’s Green Star)的 主角是澳门旅游大学教学餐厅,这是澳门唯 一一家获得米其林绿星认证的餐厅。该餐厅 以现代烹饪技巧呈现澳门菜、葡国菜以及其 他西餐料理,并使用校园内种植的本地食材, 如茄子、秋葵和香茅等,展示了永续成就方 面的卓越表现。

这些故事不仅为美食探索打开了大门, 还提醒我们享受大自然的恩赐伴随着重要 的责任。这些珍贵的资源需要我们用心呵 护、严加保护,并以敬畏之心将丰富而脆 弱的自然产物留给后代,让大地继续给予 生命的滋养。

4 | TK | gifts from the earth PUBLISHER’S NOTE
6 | TK | gifts from the earth CONTENTS 8 From the Ground Up • 12 Dreamlike Design • 16 Legendary Journeys 36 Portuguese Reimagined • 40 Stars Shine • 54 Flavors of the Deep • 74 A Heritage of Riches 86 Macau’s Green Star • 90 Delicate Operations • 94 Thoughtful Gastronomy 94 90 8 40 12 74 86 36 16
gifts from the earth | TK | 7 102 Naturally Inspired • 104 Hokkaido and the Highlands 106 Indulging the Curator • 110 One-of-a-Kind Luxury 118 Experiencing Wine • 120 Naturally Simple • 122 Changing Food CONTENTS 110 106 104 102 120 118 122 54

向土而生

from the ground up

The interdisciplinary collaboration between potter Gregg F. Moore and Chef Dan Barber explores the origins of what we put on our tables.

THE WATER CUPS at two-Michelin-star Blue Hill at Stone Barns, helmed by Dan Barber, who is often referred to as a philosopher-chef, intentionally resemble the grass-fed beef bones that they’re crafted from. Inspired by trabecular bone tissue with its honeycomb-like structure, they are made by Philadelphia-based artist, designer, and educator Gregg F. Moore, who fires the vessels at the highest possible temperature. “They go into the kiln round,” he says, “and they come out warped and distorted.” Each one is unique.

Of the hundreds of pieces that Moore has crafted for Blue Hill, he considers these wafer-thin, translucent Grass-Fed Bone China tumblers the most important. “The one object that stays with the diner for an entire meal is the water cup,” he says. “It’s held in the hands, and it touches the lips. There’s an intimacy that develops.” This lack of, as he puts it, “critical distance” allows his approach –and Barber’s too – to unfold over the length of the meal.

这个跨界合作始于著名米其林二星餐厅 Blue Hill at Stone Barns,由被誉为「哲学家厨师」 的 Dan Barber 主理。餐厅采用的水杯特意模 仿草饲牛的骨骼结构,呈现出类似蜂巢状的骨 小梁组织。 这些器皿由费城艺术家、设计师 兼教育工作者 Gregg F. Moore 所制作,关键 在于使用最高温度窑烧陶土。他说:「这些杯 子进窑之前是圆形的,但出窑后 却不同形狀。」因此每个水杯都是 独一无二的。

Before going on to earn a masters of fine arts from New York State College of Ceramics at Alfred University, Moore studied at Skidmore College, where he majored in geoscience with a concentration in invertebrate paleontology, disciplines that clearly inform his current practice as a potter. “It’s really about storytelling through multilayered perspectives,” he says, “and the first layer, from the ground up, is the material.” For Moore, that material is clay, which he believes contributes as much meaning to

在为 Blue Hill 制作数百件陶 艺作品的过程中,Gregg 认为这些 薄如蝶翼的半透明草饲牛骨瓷水杯最为重要。 他说:「在整个用餐过程中,与用餐者最贴近 的器皿就是水杯。用餐者把水杯紧握在手中、 双唇与之接触,产生了一种亲密感。」这种近 距离的体验让 Gregg 和 Dan 的理念通过一顿 饭的时间得以展现。

在获得阿尔弗雷德大学纽约州立陶瓷学 院的艺术硕士学位前,Gregg 曾在斯基德摩 尔学院主修地球科学专攻无脊椎动物古生物 学,这些学科对他 从事的陶艺工作产生了深远

INSPIRED LIVING 8 | TK | gifts from the earth

主厨的同名料理所作

→ Rooting, Pecking, and Grazing: a triptych of plates 三联盘作品:食草、食穗、寻根

↖ Beet Steak Plate, crafted exclusively for Chef Barber’s iconic dish of the same name 甜菜根盘,专为 Dan Barber COURTESTY OF GREGG F. MOORE, ANDREW SCRIVANI (3)

an object as form or decoration – the latter of which he often in fact eschews. “If there’s any decoration, it’s content-driven,” he explains. “It highlights the relationship between the object and the food and puts the food at the forefront of the experience.”

Barber and Moore have been engaged in their symbiotic collaboration since 2015, when Moore read Barber’s seminal book, The Third Plate, and contacted the chef. “The way Dan works with ingredients is how I work with materials,” says Moore. “I build a dish out of clay, and he builds a dish out of food – from the material out for me, from the ingredient out for him.”

A case in point is Moore’s Beet Steak Plate that he created for Barber’s iconic dish of tallow-covered and aged beetroot. It’s one of his rare wares coated in slip and glaze, white on white. As the beet is cut at the table, its blood-red juice spills over the luminous

影响。 他表示:「地球科学的本质就是通过多层次的视 角讲述故事。而地球的表面是我们可以探索的第一层, 这也是故事的灵感来源。」对于 Gregg 来说,陶土就是 他的材料,他相信陶土本身赋予物件以意义,这种意义 不亚于形式或装饰。事实上,他的创作很少使用装饰。 他解释道:「如果有装饰,那是为了内容的需要,用来 突出物件与食物之间的关系,将食物置于体验的核心。」

Gregg 与 Dan 的合作关系源于 2015 年,当时 Gregg 拜读了 Dan 的开创性著作《 The Third Plate 》后, 便与这位主厨联系。 Gregg 说:「Dan 处理食材的方式, 正如我对待创作媒材一样。我用陶土制作盘子,他用食 材制作菜肴。」

举例来说,Gregg 为 Dan 的招牌菜 —— 陈年甜菜 根淋牛油,设计了一个专属的甜菜根盘。 这个器皿采

Vegetable “geodes” made using clay that is a mixture of stoneware and farm soil. 使用石器土和农田土混合制成的植物水晶洞。
10 TK | gifts from the earth
COURTESY OF GREGG F. MOORE

At Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, grass destined for sheep consumption grows in a mold, which is later used in making Grazing 在Stone Barns粮食和农业中心,羊群食用的鲜草生长 在腐土环境,也是后来《食草》的创作媒材。

finish, enhancing the effect. The plate, thick and soil-like, tells its own origin story: “It’s like Dan’s philosophy on a plate,” says Moore. “If we were going to do something so performative, it would have to be grounded in an aesthetic based on soil.”

Moore’s triptych of plates named Grazing, Pecking, and Rooting expresses this concept materially, translating Blue Hill’s book-like menu, which replaces a traditional bill of fare and tells a farm-to-table story, into fossil-like dishes. Each one represents an outward expression of how the sheep, geese, and pigs at Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture eat. “What I was really interested in,” says Moore, “was the surface of the farm as a real and metaphorical space where material transmutates from the geological to the biological – the surface emerges from inside the object and is renewed with every use.”

用了罕见的白色釉彩装饰。当甜菜根在餐桌上被切开, 鲜红的汁液溅洒在光洁的盘面上,效果非常惊艳。这个 碗状盘子质感沉实,散发着土壤的气息,仿佛在述说着 自己的来历。Gregg 表示:「如果要通过器皿表达 Dan 的哲学,那大概就是如此。若要做出如此具表演性的作 品,必须立基于以土壤为本的美学。」

Gregg 的三联盘作品 ——《食草》(Grazing)、《食 穗》(Pecking)和《寻根》(Rooting),以具象手法诠释 Blue Hill 那犹如书本般的菜单,讲述着从农田到餐桌的 故事。 作品中的每一个盘子,都代表了 Stone Barns 粮 食和农业中心的绵羊、鹅以及猪只进食方式。 Gregg 说: 「我对农场作为一个真实而富有隐喻意义的空间非常感 兴趣,这里的物质会如何在地质与生物间进行转化 物件由内而生,并在每次使用中展现新的面貌。」

INSPIRED LIVING
Grass-Fed Bone China water cups for Blue Hill at Stone Barns 专为Blue Hill at Stone Barns 设计的草饲牛骨瓷水杯 Moore preparing the mold for his fossil-like work, Pecking Gregg Moore正在准备《食穗》的创作素材
gifts from the earth | TK 11
COURTESTY OF GREGG F. MOORE (2), JOCHEM VAN GRUNSVEN (PORTRAIT)

如梦似幻

dreamlike design

At Bar Magritte, visitors leaving the Magritte Museum can continue their journey into the influential painter’s surrealist world.

BAR MAGRITTE opened last year in Brussels on November 21, the same date on which René Magritte was born in 1898. Ensconced in iconic Hotel Amigo, it’s the first bar in the world where patrons can spend an evening surrounded by all things Magritte while sipping from a bowler-shaped glass. The artist’s life and work are thoughtfully reimagined in the form of cocktails, cuisine, and decor that create an undeniably surreal dreamscape.

The interior was born of the decadeslong relationship between the in-house design team of Rocco Forte Hotels, helmed by Olga Polizzi, and Sarah Daniels of London’s DO Design Studio. Surprising contrasts, a hallmark of surrealism, are everywhere. Lolly-pink armchairs counterpoint the bar’s jazz-lounge-green upholstery. Deep jewel tones sit beside Art Deco-era stained glass and bright brass finishes.

Bespoke Adam Ellis wallpaper was inspired by four of Magritte’s lesser-known works: Woman on Horseback, Three Women, Three Nudes in an Interior, and Donna. The aim is for guests to feel that they’ve “stepped through a portal of surrealism, where they’re

DESIGN
COURTESY HOTEL AMIGO
12 TK | gifts from the earth

creatively stimulated and their imaginations are expanded,” says Tim Young, head of design for Rocco Forte Hotels.

With Hotel Amigo little more than a one-kilometer stroll from the Magritte Museum, art lovers who’ve spent time savoring the painter’s oeuvre can then explore his personal predilections through Bar Magritte’s menu of twenty cocktails. Behind the collection is the inventive mind of mixologist and longtime Rocco Forte collaborator Salvatore Calabrese, who developed the drinks after discussions with the museum, historians, and those close to the artist.

Ten of the cocktails, including The

Bar Magritte 去年 11 月 21 日在比利时布鲁塞尔开幕,这一天恰巧是出生在 1898 年的超现实画家 René Magritte 的生日。这间酒吧位于著名的 Hotel Amigo,是全球首间为顾客量身打造的马格里特体验空间。在这里,宾客可 以一边品尝马格里特主题调酒,一边欣赏充满超现实意象的独特室内装潢设 计。Bar Magritte 巧妙地将艺术家的生平与作品融入餐饮与空间设计中,带 来绝无仅有的梦幻视觉飨宴。

这间酒吧的室内设计,是 Rocco Forte 酒店集团内部的 Olga Polizzi 设 计团队与伦敦 DO Design Studio 的 Sarah Daniels 长达数十年合作的心血结 晶。酒吧内随处可见富有超现实主义特色的对比元素,例如座位区的红色 与绿色扶手椅、或同时并列的深邃宝石色调、20 世纪装饰艺术风格的彩绘玻 璃,以及闪亮的黄铜元素。

酒吧墙壁所使用的 Adam Ellis 订制壁纸,其灵感来自马格里特四幅 较鲜为人知的作品:《女子骑马像》(Woman on Horseback )、《三位女人》 ( Three Women )、《室内空间中的三名裸人》( Three Nudes in an Interior ) 及《女人》( Donna )。 Rocco Forte 酒店集团设计总监 Tim Young 表示:「我

14 TK | gifts from the earth

Return, sky blue and salt-tinged, channel Magritte’s artwork. The rest, like the Negroni and French 75, are classics from his lifetime. “It’s our way of paying homage to the artist’s legacy while providing our guests with an experience that transcends mere refreshment,” says Carlo Ferrigno, director of operations at Rocco Forte Hotels. A small-plates menu includes cheesecake served under a cloche that evokes the cheese in Ceci est un morceau de fromage. Salade Liégeoise was added after the team learned from acquaintances of René and Georgette Magritte that it was a personal favorite.

们希望宾客能感觉自己置身于超现实主义的场景中,在这里大胆想像、有 所启发。」

Bar Magritte 距离马格里特美术馆仅一公里多的路程,艺术爱好者在结 束美术馆巡礼后,可以继续在酒吧中品尝多达 20 种马格里特特色调酒。长 期与 Rocco Forte 酒店集团合作的资深调酒师 Salvatore Calabrese 与美术馆、 历史学家及马格里特私交好友深入商讨后,才构思出这一系列富有创意的主 题调酒。

有 10 种调酒的名称直接取材自马格里特的画作,像是「重返」(The Return)便试图以蓝色酒体和盐巴呈现画作中的蓝天白云。其他调酒如尼格 罗尼(Negroni)与法式 75(French 75),都是马格里特所处时代流行的经 典饮品。Rocco Forte 酒店集团营运总监 Carlo Ferrigno 说:「我们希望透过 这种方式,向这位艺术大师的传奇生涯致敬,同时为宾客带来超越一般餐饮 体验的享受。」酒吧也提供轻食小点,奶酪蛋糕的造型灵感来自马格里特的 名画《这是一块乳酪》(Ceci est un morceau de fromage);菜单上的比利时 马铃薯沙拉是马格里特夫妇的最爱,这个小道消息是由他们的好友提供。

DESIGN COURTESY HOTEL AMIGO (2) gifts from the earth TK | 15

传奇之旅

legendary journeys

16 TK | GIFTS FROM THE EARTH

Iconic properties from Belmond’s global collection of luxury sites are seen through the eyes of internationally acclaimed photographers in “Belmond Legends.”

ART
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH | TK | 17

SINCE ACQUIRING HOTEL CIPRIANI IN VENICE IN 1976, Belmond has grown into a worldwide collection of forty-six exceptional destinations across twenty-six countries. Believing that the path that brings one to a place is as important as the destination itself, the luxury travel group specializes in curating one-of-a-kind experiences that encompass not only hotels but also trains, river cruises, and safaris.

A pioneer in slow travel, Belmond has been operating the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express since 1982. The group has since expanded to include sumptuous beach resorts like Maroma on the Riviera Maya, historic hideaways like Villa San Michele in the Florentine foothills, urbane escapes like Copacabana Palace in Rio de Janeiro, and gateways to UNESCO World Heritage Sites like Hotel das Cataratas in Brazil’s Iguassu National Park.

Le Fur’s mastery of light and color is on full display in her images of Caruso in Ravello, Italy, creating a bold new take on the hotel’s sense of height and elevation. Her transcendent colors offer a strikingly modern perspective on the Amalfi Coast by balancing the ethereal and the graphic to create authentic moments of dreamlike serenity.

Letizia 特别擅长捕捉光线与色彩,而她为意 大利拉维洛的 Caruso 酒店拍摄的照片就完美 印证这点。她以大胆崭新的手法,诠释酒店 的高度及海拔位置。照片中超凡脱俗的色彩, 为阿玛菲海岸注入抢眼的现代风情,在空灵 与图样线条之间找到完美平衡,创造出梦幻 宁静的真实时刻。

自从在 1976 年收购威尼斯的 Hotel Cipriani 酒店之 后,Belmond 已发展成一个在全球二十六国拥有 四十六间卓越观光酒店的集团。Belmond 相信,到 达一个目的地的途径与目的地本身同样重要,因此 他们致力于策划独一无二的体验,除了酒店的环境 之外,还包括火车、内河游轮及野生动物观赏等行 程体验。

作为慢旅行概念的先驱,Belmond 自 1982 年起开始经营威尼斯 Simplon 东 方快车。此后,该集团的业务不断扩展, 包括玛雅里维耶拉的 Maroma 等奢华海滩度假村、 佛罗伦斯山麓的 Villa San Michele 等历史悠久的世 外桃源、里约热内卢的 Copacabana Palace 等都市 休闲胜地,以及巴西伊瓜苏国家公园的 Hotel das Cataratas 等联合国教科文组织世界遗产的据点。

Seeing itself as the custodian of storied, special places, Belmond, which has been part of luxury group LVMH since 2019, is committed to building on the past to create a new legacy for the future. It works in collaboration with communities and local talents as well as some of the world’s leading chefs, designers, and artists to enhance and perpetuate the fine art of travel.

To celebrate the fascinating stories and rich heritage behind its remarkable properties, Belmond has launched a contemporary photography series called Belmond Legends. Through an array of vibrant images, the series brings the luxury brand to life and strengthens Belmond’s long-standing commitment to creative expression. Some of today’s top photographers from around the world were invited to capture the inner essence of Belmond’s unique destinations through their lenses and from their personal perspectives. Chosen for their distinctive approaches to light, space, and color, the artists include Letizia Le Fur, Chris Rhodes, François Halard, Jalan and Jibril Durimel, Thomas Rousset, Rosie Marks, Jeano Edwards, and Jack Davison:

Belmond 自 2019 年起成为奢侈品集团 LVMH 的一份子,一直以来都将自己定位为守护者,致 力于维护历史悠久的独特地区景点,并努力以过 去的历史为基础,为未来创造新的传承与经典。

Belmond 与社群、当地人才和世界顶尖的厨师、设 计师与艺术家合作,共同提升和传承旅行的艺术。

为了颂扬集团旗下酒店背后的精彩故事及丰 富历史,Belmond 推出名为 Belmond Legends 的 当代摄影集。透过一系列鲜活的影像,将奢华品牌 带进生活当中,并强化 Belmond 长期以来对于创 意表达的投入与努力。几位来自世界各地、享誉 盛名的当代摄影大师在集团邀请下,透过他们的镜 头与个人视角,下列摄影师因处理光线、空间与 色彩的方式独到,被挑选参与这本摄影集的创作:

Letizia Le Fur 、 Chris Rhodes 、 François Halard 、 Jalan 及 Jibril Durimel 、 Thomas Rousset 、 Rosie Marks、Jeano Edwards 和 Jack Davison。

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Caruso

Capturing a world of timeless glamour and bold energy, British artist Chris Rhodes reveals new perspectives on the ebb and flow of daily life at Venice’s Hotel Cipriani, where the world’s most fascinating people come together to indulge in life’s greatest pleasures. During his stay at this legendary Italian residence, he discovered allure in the ordinary by immersing himself in the fabric of this beautiful Giudecca island hideaway.

英国艺术家 Chris Rhodes 透过镜头捕捉了 一个充满永恒魅力与大胆活力的世界,以 全新视角揭示威尼斯 Hotel Cipriani 的日常 点滴。在这里,世上最迷人的宾客汇聚一 堂,尽情享受生命中的最大乐趣。停留在 这座传奇意大利宅邸的期间,他沉浸在美 丽的朱代卡岛这个世外桃源之中,探索这 个岛屿平凡日常的魅力。

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Renowned for lensing noted artists’ interiors, François Halard explores the unique legacy of La Residencia. In a true celebration of the island’s light, he captures the hotel’s organic energy and sensuous atmosphere. Halard offers a revealing view into Deià’s intimate mountainside enclave that for centuries has been a place of spiritual connection for writers, artists, and musicians, a sanctuary of the bohemian spirit nestled in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains.

François Halard 以拍摄著名艺术家的家居室内装 潢闻名,这次他受邀前来探索 La Residencia 独 一无二的传统设计。他以这座岛上自然的光线为 辅,表现出酒店自然流露的能量及感性氛围。几 世纪以来,这里一直是作家、艺术家和音乐家的 精神归属,是一个位于特拉蒙塔纳山脉的波西米 亚精神圣地。

La Residencia

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Splendido Mare

Rich with a spirit of effortless irreverence, Chris Rhodes’ work has the allure of elegant simplicity. With the underlying poetry of his artistic approach, he reveals the beauty of Belmond’s famed Splendido in Portofino on the Italian Riviera, originally built by Benedictine monks in the sixteenth century. In his images, radiant shades of blue and green are met with white boats sprinkled across the water. His lens deftly explores the hotel’s décor, from architectural details of the façade to exquisite works of art that grace each room and suite.

Chris Rhodes 的作品充满随兴不羁的率性精神,带有优雅简约的 魅力。他以个人艺术手法中蕴含的诗意,展现意大利海岸地带菲 诺港著名的 Splendido 酒店之美,该酒店最初是由本笃修道士于 十六世纪所建。在他的作品中,蓝绿相间的色调与水面上散落的 白色小船相互辉映。他透过镜头巧妙探索酒店的装饰,从外墙的 建筑细节到每间客房和套房的精美艺术摆设,所有细节都浓缩在 影像之中。

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Twin brothers Jalan and Jibril Durimel capture the hedonistic past and present of Rio de Janeiro’s renowned Copacabana Palace. Born to French-Caribbean parents in Paris, they have pursued an international career that has included photo campaigns for the likes of Wales Bonner and Louis Vuitton. Each image in their series, drawing inspiration from their colorful upbringing and exposure to diverse cultures and cinematic influences, is an ode to Copa’s rich history. Their portrayal, with the people of Copa as protagonists and the palace as their playground, is relaxed, refined, and seductive, evoking the city through a palette imbued with sandy browns and a sun-kissed haze.

Jalan 与 Jibril Durimel 这对双胞胎兄弟以里约热内卢 著名的 Copacabana Palace 为主角,展现辉煌酒店中 来自过去与现在的享乐氛围。他们出生于巴黎,父母 是法裔加勒比人。他们的摄影作品享誉国际,曾为 Wales Bonner 与 Louis Vuitton 等品牌拍摄广告。他们 从多采多姿的成长经历、多元文化的薰陶及电影的影 响中汲取灵感,拍摄出的每一幅作品都是对 Copa 悠 久历史的赞颂。他们的作品以 Copa 当地居民为主角, 将 Copacabana Palace 当成游乐场,展现轻松、雅致、 迷人的特质,透过充满沙棕色和金黄色阳光的朦胧色 调,来唤起观者对这座城市的回忆。

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Copacabana Palace by Jalan and Jibril Durimel

Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons

Depicting the symbiotic relationship between the exterior and interior world at Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons in Oxfordshire, Thomas Rousset’s photographs reflect a constant exchange of ideas and storytelling – with a surrealist twist. The work of the innovative photographer, who lives and works in Lausanne and Paris, reflects the property’s spirit as he flirts with contrasts between everyday life and imagination, fairy tale and realism, work and play. His images highlight the lush gardens and playful gastronomy synonymous with Le Manoir through an avant-garde approach that blurs the boundary between photography and painting.

Thomas Rousset 的摄影作品描绘牛津 郡 Le Manoir Aux Quat’Saisons 外部和 内部世界之间的共生关系,反映出思想 与叙事之间持续不间断的交流互动,同 时显现超现实主义的色彩。这位在洛桑 和巴黎生活与工作的创新摄影师,藉由 作品反映出这座庄园的精神。他将日常 生活与想像力、童话与现实主义、工作 和娱乐并置对比。他的作品以前卫手法 抹去摄影与绘画之间的界线,突显出庄 园郁郁葱葱的花园及缤纷的美食。

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Mount Nelson

With a profuse palette of color, British photographer Rosie Marks reveals the hidden details and lesser-known rituals that take place at Mount Nelson. Having created imagery and films for Martine Rose, Miu Miu, and Marc Jacobs, she presents the viewer with a series of Mount Nelson microdramas that unfold in the lavish grounds and feature subjects who are unguarded, trusting, and genuine. Marks’s lens gives depth and soul to the iconic pink hotel with an almost Alice-inWonderland-like sense of intrigue.

英国摄影师 Rosie Marks 以丰富的色彩呈现 Mount Nelson 鲜为人知的细节及日常仪式。她曾为 Martine Rose、Miu Miu 和 Marc Jacobs 创作图像和 影片,这次她呈现一系列 Mount Nelson 精彩细腻 的瞬间。这些场景在奢华的酒店腹地当中开演,拍 摄对象毫无戒备,对摄影师抱持完全的信任,展现 最真诚自然的一面。Rosie 的镜头赋予著名的粉色 外墙酒店更多深度及灵魂,给人一种爱丽丝梦游仙 境的神秘感。

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Jamaican-born filmmaker and photographer Jeano Edwards’s images of Cap Juluca serve as an ode to nature and tranquility, with the ephemeral radiance of Anguilla as a focal point. His photography captures the dynamic, ever-changing light on the island, from the vivid hues of midday sunshine to the soft hypnotic tones and metallic notes of dawn and dusk. Each image throughout the series is a peaceful moment, with Cap Juluca’s Moorish architecture abstracted and luminous. As a sensitive documentarian, Edwards presents a quietly mesmerizing tribute to Cap Juluca and the island of Anguilla.

牙买加出生的电影制片人兼摄影师 Jeano Edwards 以安圭拉岛短暂辉煌的光芒为主体, 将 Cap Juluca 记录为一首自然与宁静的颂歌。

他的摄影作品捕捉岛上动态及不断变化的光 线,从正午阳光的鲜艳色调,到黎明和黄昏 的柔和宁静质感与金属色调。每张照片都象 征着宁静的时刻,Cap Juluca 的摩尔式建筑以 抽象形式呈现,闪耀灿烂光辉。作为一位敏 锐细腻的影像纪录者,Jeano 以静谧祥和的方 式向 Cap Juluca 和安圭拉岛致敬。

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Cap Juluca
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Maroma

British photographer Jack Davison brings his deft, almost painterly use of light and shadow to Maroma. Driving his interpretation of the property is the concept of “feeling versus seeing.” Corn is elevated to something majestic, the carved stucco architecture is playfully explored, and the faces of Maroma take center stage, welcoming the spectator in. Reflecting the synergy between the jungle, the ocean, and the spiritual experience of the Riviera Maya, Davison’s work contrasts bold, saturated colors with silvery monochrome shades. His documentation of Maroma is sensual and jovial, communicating to the viewer the energy of the reinvigorated property coming back to life.

英国摄影师 Jack Davison 将自己高超的光影运用技法 带到 Maroma。他对这块土地的诠释,运用了「感觉 对上视觉」的概念。玉米变成魔幻写实的物件,雕刻 的灰泥建筑展现出俏皮趣味的风格,而 Maroma 当地 民众则为摄影作品的主体,欢迎观者的凝视。Jack 的 作品反映出丛林、海洋与玛雅里维耶拉地区精神风格 之间的协同作用,将大胆、饱和的色彩与银色的单色 色调并置,呈现出鲜明对比。他以感性欢快的方式纪 录 Maroma,向观者传递庄园重获新生之后焕发的活力。

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At Chiado, Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa fulfills his sophisticated culinary vision.
portuguese reimagined 葡式高雅餐飨
鮟鱇鱼与龙虾烩饭、番茄与香菜 36 TK gifts from the earth
Monkfish and lobster rice, tomato, coriander

HAKE IS JUST A SIMPLE, everyday fish, but when carefully salted and patted dry before cooking, “the texture is amazing,” says Chef Henrique Sá Pessoa. He plates it with a razor clam, a slice of grilled oyster mushroom, a yellow fricassee sauce, and bright green leaves. This delicate dish, which offers a glimpse of his extraordinary culinary vision for Macau, appears on the new all-seafood Coast to Coast menu at elegantly understated Chiado at The Londoner Macao, a restaurant selected by the Michelin Guide Hong Kong & Macau 2024.

In his native Portugal, Sá Pessoa is a TV celebrity and one of only seven chefs to operate a restaurant with two Michelin stars. But he feels a connection to Macau, and, ever since his first visit in 2011 as guest chef at Clube Militar, he’d pondered the idea of doing something more permanent here. Meanwhile, in a Lisbon neighborhood called Chiado, he had opened his flagship restaurant, Alma, which went on to receive its first Michelin star in 2016 and its second in 2018.

Chiado opened in 2017 at Sands Cotai Central, on the condition that Sá Pessoa’s former colleague and close friend Chef Dario Santos would agree to become head chef. They’d worked so closely together in Lisbon that Sá Pessoa knew he would understand the journey they were embarking on. In order to run a restaurant from afar, says Sá Pessoa, you have to trust your chef completely.

The menu at that time was quite “traditional Portuguese,” but when the restaurant was looking to reopen post-pandemic, the top F&B minds at Sands suggested that Sá Pessoa begin shifting the focus toward a more “gastronomic” and

《香港澳门米其林指南 2024》入选餐厅澳门伦敦人希雅度葡国餐厅的主 厨 Henrique Sá Pessoa 表示,哈克鱼虽然是种简单、日常的鱼类,但 如果在烹饪前仔细腌制并拍干,它的口感会变得令人惊叹。他将哈克鱼 与蛏子、一片烤杏鲍菇、黄色白汁与翠绿的叶子一起摆盘。这道精致的 菜肴出现在新推出的海鲜菜单「希雅度海之飨宴」上,餐厅装潢低调优 雅,宾客更能从中领略到 Henrique 对澳门怀抱的烹饪愿景。

在 Henrique 的家乡葡萄牙,他是一位电视名人,也是当地仅有的 七位米其林二星餐厅的经营者之一。由于对澳门情有独钟,主厨自 2011 年首次造访澳门并担任澳门陆军俱乐部餐厅的客座主厨后,就开始考虑 于澳门开设一家长久经营的餐厅。与此同时,他也在里斯本的 Chiado 区开设自己的旗舰餐厅 Alma,此餐厅于 2016 年获得第一颗米其林星星,

2018 年获得第二颗。

2017 年,Henrique 于金沙城中心开设希雅度葡国餐厅,并邀 请前同事兼好友 Dario Santos 担任主厨。两位曾在里斯本密切合作,

TASTING NOTES
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Henrique Sá Pessoa
COURTESY
OF CHIADO (2)

Hake, razor clams, grilled mushroom and fricassee sauce 大西洋哈克鱼、蛏子、烤蘑菇、白汁

“refined” vision, to something that would offer a more intense guest experience. In other words, to something that would more closely resemble Alma’s impressive achievements.

The culinary journey of Sá Pessoa in many ways recalls the processes that saw the emergence of Macau’s unique Macanese food four and a half centuries ago, a cuisine whose canon reveals the breadth of Portugal’s culinary influences in Asia, from Nagasaki to Goa.

Although Sá Pessoa loves to incorporate his global culinary discoveries, he intuitively reimagines taste sensations rather than delivering self-conscious fusion food, a term he doesn’t care for. He brings touches of dashi and yuzu from Japan, the tang of fresh herbs to elevate a foam, an unexpected hit of chili, the reduction of onions to an intense, heady broth.

The restaurant’s tableware is beautifully sourced and the food he places on each piece is defined by artful considerations of shape, color, and drama. Certain ingredients are specifically imported for Chiado – extra virgin olive oil from Portugal, fish and seafood from Europe and Japan – but, in general, high-quality ingredients are readily available through the Sands logistics teams.

The biggest challenge in today’s Macau, says Sá Pessoa, is the competitive nature of the European fine-dining market. “It’s very much dominated by French and Italian, but it’s still a relatively new market we’re entering. We feel that we’re paving the way and are 100 percent sure that we’re going to have Michelin-starred Portuguese restaurants here in Macau.”

Henrique 相信 Dario 能够理解他们一同步上的旅程。 Henrique 认为,如果要远距离经营一家餐厅,就必须完 全信任主掌的厨师。

当时开发的菜单是相当「传统的葡萄牙料理」,但 当餐厅希望在疫情后重新开业时,金沙餐饮高层建议 Henrique 将重点转向更「着重于料理」和更「精致」的 方向,来提供更完整的餐饮体验。换句话说,就是更接 近 Alma 的辉煌成就。

Henrique 的烹饪历程在很多面向都让人联想起四 个半世纪前特有的土生葡菜出现的过程,这种料理典范 显示出葡萄牙烹饪在亚洲地区带来的广泛影响,从长崎 到果阿都可见其踪影。

Henrique 并不执着于「融合」,虽然他喜欢发掘全 球各地的烹饪并融入料理中,但他凭直觉重新想象味觉 感受,而不是推出自我意识强烈的融合菜。他从日本引 进高汤和柚子,用新鲜的香草味道来提升泡沫的风味, 并以意想不到的辣椒和洋葱气味来调制浓郁的高汤。

餐厅使用的餐具皆十分精美,Henrique 在将食物 摆放在食器上之前,都会针对形状、颜色及艺术性的对 比效果进行考量。他特别为餐厅进口葡萄牙的特级初榨 橄榄油、来自欧洲和日本的鱼类和海鲜,金沙的物流团 队也有能力随时提供各地高品质的食材。

Henrique 表示,当今澳门最大的挑战是欧洲精致 餐饮市场的竞争。他说:「法国和意大利餐厅在这个市 场中占主导地位,但我们进入的依然是一个相对较新的 市场。我们知道自己正在开拓道路,也百分之百确信澳 门将出现米其林星级的葡萄牙餐厅。」

TASTING NOTES
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Sea flavors and citrus, featuring yuzu sorbet and crystallized algae 海韵柚子雪芭、糖霜海藻

Six celebrated chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants around the world present signature dishes at this year’s lavish Gala Dinner hosted by Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2024 and SJM.

璀璨星光

Stars Shine

GLAMOUR AND GLITTER prevailed on March 14 when more than four hundred invited guests gathered at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau for a spectacular Gala Dinner in celebration of the breathlessly anticipated sixteenth edition of the Michelin Guide Ceremony Hong Kong & Macau.

The Gala Dinner brought together a half dozen internationally acclaimed guest chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants in Taiwan, Bangkok, Shanghai, Hong Kong, Macau, and Berlin. Supported by the Macao Government Tourism Office, the event was part of its efforts to advance Macau’s status as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy by highlighting the region’s rich culinary heritage and spirit of innovation.

Modern dance and live music performances accompanied the occasion, as well as dazzling projection mapping displays by SJM Resorts, S. A.’s creative team that fused Eastern and Western art traditions. The high point of the evening was, of course, the extravagant menu of dishes from six culinary masters:

香港澳门米其林指南与澳娱综合主办《香港澳门米 其林指南 2024》典礼活动「星级盛宴」,邀请到六 位来自全球不同城市的米其林星级主厨,在这场盛 会上呈献各自的特色名菜。这场晚宴在 3 月 14 日于澳门上葡京综合度假村举 行,庆祝万众瞩目的香港澳门米其林指 南第十六版的发行,现场四百多名宾客 应邀前来,热闹景象盛况空前。 这次盛会集合六位来自台湾、曼谷、 上海、香港、澳门及柏林的米其林星级 餐厅主厨参与。本次活动得到澳门旅游局大力支持, 致力推广澳门作为联合国教科文组织「创意城市美 食之都」的地位,展示澳门丰富的饮食文化传统和 创新精神。 宾客一边用餐,一边欣赏澳娱综合精心安排的 现场音乐、现代舞演出,以及中西结合的光雕投射 表演,为活动增添华丽享受。这场盛会的亮点无疑 是六位大厨带来的美食飨宴:

CULINARY CELEBRATION
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(clockwise from left) Supaksorn Jongsiri, Jimmy Lim, Stefan Stiller, Adam Wong, Julien Tongourian, René Frank Chef Jimmy Lim 林恬耀
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MICHELIN GUIDE TAIWAN 2023 JL
Studio

ASAM PEDAS: AMBERJACK YELLOWTAIL | JACKFRUIT | FERMENTED STARFRUIT 亚参酸辣鱼 : 油甘鱼 | 大树菠萝 | 发酵杨桃

Chef Jimmy Lim Tyan Yaw grew up in Singapore, where he began his culinary career by helping out at his father’s hawker stall. Fast-forward to 2023 when he became the first Singaporean chef to helm a restaurant awarded three Michelin stars. Of his Gala signature, he says, “Tonight, I am presenting a beloved dish of the Malay community in Singapore, Ikan Asam Pedas, which translates to ‘sour spicy fish.’ But I’m putting my own spin on it through the lens of JL Studio.”

在新加坡长大的林恬耀主厨从小在父亲的快炒店 帮忙,开启他的厨艺生涯,如今他于 2023 年成 为第一位获得米其林三星肯定的新加坡籍厨师。 他在介绍为盛宴带来的佳肴时表示:「今晚,我 将带来新加坡马来社群喜爱的经典亚参酸辣鱼, 并以 JL Studio 的风格重新诠释。」

gifts from the earth | TK | 43

YUM: FROZEN WING BEAN SALAD | PRAWN | COCONUT MILK | HOMEMADE CHILI OIL | HERBS 冰冻四棱豆沙拉 | 虾

CULINARY CELEBRATION 44 TK gifts from the earth
| 椰奶 | 自制辣椒油 | 香草

Sorn 2

Chef Supaksorn Jongsiri

MICHELIN GUIDE THAILAND 2024

Chef Supaksorn “Ice” Jongsiri holds a deep appreciation for the rich culinary culture of the south of Thailand, where he was born and where he was inspired by his beloved grandmother, who cooked for the whole family. “Sorn is about taking no shortcuts,” he says. “It’s about the authenticity of Thai food and the best ingredients we can find.” The unique frozen wing bean salad in his Gala dish was a challenge: “We tried nitrogen, and it worked out really well.”

Sorn 主厨 Supaksorn Jongsiri 出生于泰国南部,在祖母的启 蒙下与当地饮食文化产生深切连结。他说:「Sorn 就是不走 捷径,这关系到泰国菜的正宗性和我们能寻获的顶级食材, 我们致力呈现、绝不取巧。」主厨为这场餐会呈献富有挑战 性的冷冻四棱豆沙拉,他表示:「我们尝试使用液态氮,效 果非常理想。」

gifts from the earth | TK | 45

3

Chef Stefan Stiller

MICHELIN GUIDE SHANGHAI 2024

Taian Table 泰安门

CULINARY CELEBRATION
Shown here is Taian Table Executive Chef Christiaan Stoop 泰安门行政主厨Christiaan Stoop

SEA

BASS | CHORIZO | SAUCE BOUILLABAISSE

鲈鱼 | 西班牙辣肉肠 | 马赛鱼汤

Starting his culinary career at age sixteen, Chef Stefan Stiller worked in Michelin-star restaurants across his native Germany before moving to Shanghai, where he opened Taian Table in 2016. “We serve a modern, creative, and innovative menu based on the European style of food but with a lot of Asian ingredients,” he says. Of his Gala dish, he remarks, “The most important part of this is the sauce, the traditional French fish soup served on the Côte d’Azur and in Marseille.”

Stefan Stiller 主厨从 16 岁开始烹饪生 涯,他曾在德国各地的米其林星级餐 厅工作,之后移居上海,并于 2016 年 开始经营泰安门。他表示:「我们打造 当代创新的欧式菜肴,并用上大量亚 洲食材。」对于晚会上所带来的菜式, 他特别说明:「这道菜的精髓在于酱汁, 使用法国蔚蓝海岸和马赛有名的传统 法式鱼汤制成。」

gifts from the earth | TK | 47
CULINARY CELEBRATION 48 TK gifts from the earth

4

Chef Adam Wong 黄隆滔

MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG MACAU 2024

Forum 富临饭店

The apprentice of the “King of Abalone,” Master Chef Yeung Koon Yat, Chef Adam Wong has been with Hong Kong’s renowned Forum Restaurant for thirty-two years, during which time he has garnered a long list of awards. “I believe we are familiar with the traditional char siu,” he says of his Gala dish. “I added new elements and transformed it into coffee char siu by using Eastern spices with Spanish pork and then marinating with premium coffee to create a unique and distinctive flavor.”

黄隆滔主厨为「鲍鱼大王」杨贯一的徒弟,于 香港著名的富临饭店工作了三十二年,期间获 奖无数。他介绍这道为晚会制作的菜肴时表示: 「相信大家对于传统叉烧都很熟悉,但这次我添 加了新元素 以咖啡入馔,西班牙猪肉先以 东方香料调味,后以精品咖啡腌制,呈献出这 道风味非凡独特的『咖啡叉烧』。」

BBQ PORK COLLAR WITH COFFEE SAUCE | EGG FRIED RICE 咖啡叉烧 | 蛋炒饭
gifts from the earth | TK | 49

天巢法国餐厅 5

Chef Julien Tongourian

MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG MACAU 2024

Robuchon au Dôme

PIGEON | FOIE GRAS | BLACK TRUFFLE | GREEN CABBAGE

乳鸽 | 鸭肝 | 黑松露 | 椰菜

A disciple of legendary Chef Joël Robuchon, Chef Julien Tongourian is executive chef of Macau’s Robuchon au Dôme at Grand Lisboa Macau, which has held three Michelin stars for sixteen years. Of his Gala dish, he says, “The foie gras gives a little bit of richness and flavor to the pigeon breast. We roll on the truffle and the savoy cabbage and a little slice of bacon and steam it all together. The surprise when cutting the pigeon is that you have something really beautiful inside.”

澳门新葡京天巢法国餐厅的行政主 厨 Julien Tongourian 为传奇名厨 Joël Robuchon 的徒弟,餐厅连续十六年获 米其林三星肯定。谈及他的晚宴菜肴时, 他说道:「我们利用鸭肝为乳鸽胸创造 丰润基调,并把松露、椰菜,一小片培 根包卷起来,一起蒸煮。当您切开鸽胸 肉,会看到美丽细嫩的肉质,增添惊喜。」

CULINARY CELEBRATION
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH | TK | 51

Chef René Frank

MICHELIN GUIDE GERMANY 2024

CODA Dessert Dining

6

Drawing his culinary inspiration from all over the world, renowned chef and pâtissier René Frank constantly strives to break new ground. With CODA in 2016, he realized his dream of opening a restaurant dedicated to desserts. “We offer a fifteen-course dinner menu, where everything is inspired by dessert and pastry but not necessarily sweets.” For his Gala dish “we created a concept called ‘bean-to-plate,’ where we grind the cacao beans and make our own chocolates for a mousse that we combine with semi-dried cherries.”

从世界各地汲取烹饪灵感的知名 大厨及甜点大師 René Frank,不 断开拓创新天地。2016 年,他通 过创办 CODA Dessert Dining,实 现了开一家专业甜点餐厅的梦想。 「我们提供十五道菜的晚餐菜单, 其中所有灵感都来自甜点和糕点, 但不一定是甜的。」对于他的晚宴 作品,他说:「我们秉持『从果实 到餐盘』的概念,我们以自行烘 焙研磨的可可豆制作巧克力慕斯, 佐半干樱桃,成就这道甜点。」

CULINARY CELEBRATION
CACAO & CRISPY | CHERRY | SOY MILK 可可和脆片 | 樱桃 | 豆浆
gifts from the earth | TK | 53

FLAVORS of the

DEEP

Four leading Hong Kong chefs create dishes that celebrate the bounty of Norwegian seas.

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL BY DOROTHY SO DAVID HARTUNG
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 55

“The level of salt in Norwegian waters is also higher compared to that in Asia, so the seafood has a deeper, richer umami flavor as well.

与亚洲海域相比,挪威海域的盐度更高, 因而赋予海鲜更有层次而丰富的鲜味。”

Fabio Nompleggio

“We don’t need much to reveal the freshness of these crabs, because the quality of the product is really so high.

只要看一眼,就能看出这些红帝王蟹 的鲜美,因为它们的品质太好了。”

“NORWAY HAS COLD WATERS that are a treasure trove of certain types of seafood, especially shellfish,” says Executive Chef Fabio Nompleggio of Asaya Kitchen at Rosewood Hong Kong. “They’re bigger in size, juicier in texture, and more vibrant in color. The level of salt in Norwegian waters is also higher compared to that in Asia, so the seafood has a deeper, richer umami flavor as well.”

Not only do Norway’s crystal clear, bracingly frigid seas provide prime conditions for marine life to thrive but its seafood industry also takes care to ensure the highest standards in everything from environmental protection and product harvesting to handling and transportation.

“The country follows the cycle of marine life and takes resources from the sea in a way that’s respectful of the environment,” says

香港瑰丽酒店 Asaya Kitchen 的行政主厨 Fabio Nompleggio 表示:「挪威的冰冷海水对某些海产 来说相当珍贵,对虾蟹贝类海鲜而言更是重要。 在这种环境下生长的它们体型更大、更多汁、颜 色更鲜艳。与亚洲海域相比,挪威海域盐度更高, 因而赋予海鲜更有层次而丰富的鲜味。」

挪威的海域清澈见底、低温冷冽,这对海洋 生物的繁衍生息来说是最理想优越的环境。此外, 挪威的海产食品在环境保护、渔获捕捉、处理和 运输等各方面,都严格遵守最高标准。

香港柏宁酒店 SKYE 天台酒吧及餐厅的主厨

Florian Muller 说:「挪威遵循海洋生命的自然循环, 所以海产在品质及可持续方面都是顶尖的。」

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN
SEAFOOD COUNCIL
56 TK gifts from the earth

“The country follows the cycle of marine life and takes resources from the sea in a way that’s respectful of the environment. Norway is the best in terms of both quality and sustainability.

挪威人遵循海洋生命的自然循环并适 度开采资源,所以挪威海产在品质 及可持续方面都是最顶尖的。”

“Live Norway lobsters have a firm and creamy texture that chilled and frozen products just can’t compare with.

活体挪威海螯虾口感紧实细腻, 冰鲜或冷冻产品都无法与之相比。”

Zinc Leung

Chef Florian Muller of SKYE at The Park Lane Hong Kong. “Norway is the best in terms of both quality and sustainability.”

This respect for nature is what allows the freshest catch from Norway’s depths, including live Norway lobsters, to reach Hong Kong in pristine condition. Access to such premium-quality seafood products is a dream come true for the city’s most talented chefs, including Zinc Leung of Sushi Zinc. “Live Norway lobsters,” he says, “have a firm and creamy texture that chilled and frozen products just can’t compare with.”

Executive Chef William Ma of Canton Room at Gloucester Luk Kwok Hotel is another of the city’s culinary masters who is sold on the flavor and freshness of Norwegian shellfish, from succulent Norway lobsters to lusciously sweet Norwegian red king crabs: “These are something I definitely recommend.”

由于对自然抱持尊重的态度,各种来自挪 威深海的新鲜渔获才能以最原始的状态抵达香 港,其中包括活体挪威海螯虾。对于有才华的 厨师来说,能取得这样优质的海鲜产品简直是 美梦成真,Sushi Zinc 的 Zinc Leung 当然也不 例外。他说:「活体挪威海螯虾口感紧实细腻, 冰鲜或冷冻产品都无法与之相比。」

香港六国酒店粤轩的行政主厨马荣德是另 一位烹饪大师,他对挪威虾蟹贝类的美味与新 鲜赞不绝口,从肉质鲜美的挪威海螯虾,到香 甜可口的挪威红帝王蟹都是如此:「我绝对会推 荐挪威海产!」

gifts from the earth | TK | 57
58 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH
Baby Zucchini Ravioli, Wild Turnip, Pine Seed Emulsion, Norway Lobster 迷你栉瓜面饺、野生芜菁、 乳化松子酱、挪威海螯虾

ASAYA KITCHEN

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 59
Norwegian King Scallop, Celeriac Remoulade, Pink Grapefruit, Juniper Emulsion, Ossetra Caviar 挪威大扇贝、芹菜根佐雷莫 拉酱、粉红葡萄柚、乳化刺 柏植物酱、奥西特拉鱼子酱

WHEN COOKING WITH TOP-QUALITY INGREDIENTS, Asaya

Kitchen’s Chef Fabio Nompleggio believes in sticking to basics. His philosophy especially holds true for Norwegian shellfish, which he says requires little adornment to shine: “I try to pair these beautiful products from Norway with simple ingredients, mainly vegetables that enhance their lovely flavors.”

One example is Norway lobster, also known as langoustine. This graceful crustacean is prized for its sumptuous texture and elegant sweetness. To retain its natural meaty deliciousness, Nompleggio steams it at a gentle 90°C and keeps it in cold shellfish broth until it’s ready to be plated with light and refreshing baby zucchini ravioli and fragrant wild turnips. An unembellished celebration of quality ingredients, this dish is what Nompleggio calls “a harmonious balance between earth and sea.”

The same respect for nature’s gifts is evident in Nompleggio’s second dish, which features Norwegian scallops, wild mollusks that grow slowly in ice-cold waters where they develop a firm, meaty texture and a distinctly clean sweetness. The chef gently poaches them in a light broth infused with herbs and spices. Then they are sliced and marinated with juniper oil and lemon zest for a touch of brightness. For serving, they’re arranged in their shells over a celeriac remoulade and topped with a generous scoop of Ossetra caviar for a sophisticated evocation of the ocean’s brininess. A final drizzle of grapefruit dressing adds an elevating citrus astringency.

Asaya Kitchen 的主厨 Fabio Nompleggio 认为, 在使用顶级食材烹饪时,无需过于花巧,这个理 念尤其适用于挪威虾蟹贝类。他说它们不需要太 多点缀与加工,就能大放异彩。「我尝试用简单的 配料来搭配这些来自挪威的顶尖海鲜,其中以蔬 菜为主,借此加强其迷人的风味。」

挪威海螯虾就是其中一例。这种优雅的水生 动物,因饱满的口感和细致的甜味而备受推崇。 为了保持肉质原有的鲜美风味,Fabio 用相对温和 的 90°C 来进行蒸煮,并且保存在冷汤汁中,最后 再与清淡爽口的迷你栉瓜面饺,以及香味四溢的 野生芜菁一起享用。Fabio 认为这道菜是「大地与 海洋之间的完美平衡」,同时也向不加修饰的顶级 食材致敬。 Fabio 端出的第二道菜,同样体现对大自然 的尊重。这道菜的主角是挪威大扇贝,这种野生 的软体动物在冰冷的海水中缓慢生长,肉质紧实, 并带有明显的清甜口感。主厨将扇贝放入浸透香 草与香料的清汤中微微煮熟,然后将其切片,用 杜松子油和柠檬皮腌制来提升鲜味。上菜时,扇 贝承装在原本的贝壳当中,底部衬着芹菜根佐雷 莫拉酱,再淋上一大勺奥西特拉鱼子酱,让人感 受到海洋的咸鲜。最后滴上几滴葡萄柚酱,增添 柑橘的清新酸涩风味。

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL gifts from the earth TK | 61
Fabio Nompleggio
Salt & Pepper Norwegian Red King Crab Legs 椒盐挪威红帝王蟹脚 62 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH

CANTON ROOM 粤 轩

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 63

FOR CHEF WILLIAM MA OF CANTON ROOM, Norwegian red king crabs are true monarchs of the Barents Sea. “We don’t need much to reveal the freshness of these crabs,” he says, “because the quality of the product is really so high.” To showcase their excellence and versatility, Ma created two courses that are vastly different but equally delicious. The first is a simple preparation that lets the flavor of the crab speak for itself. The stars here are the creature’s sweet and succulent legs, which Ma flash-fries in a well-heated wok to lock in the taste. While the result is delicious enough to be eaten au naturel, Ma seasons the legs with salt and pepper and adds a dash of Sichuan peppercorn oil for a floral, mouth-tingling finish.

Following the understated first course, the second is a more elaborate presentation of Norwegian red king crab as well as a demonstration of Ma’s culinary artistry. The chef starts by removing the meat from the claws as well as the joints – an often overlooked part – and combines it with egg whites. The mixture is steamed in the crab’s carapace to create a delicate custard, on which Ma arranges pieces of romanesco and morels stuffed with crabmeat and shrimp paste to mimic a scene of a tranquil lake surrounded by trees and moss-covered boulders. The custard is then covered with a layer of crystal roux and more crabmeat to evoke the shimmering effects of light dancing on the water’s surface, while orange pearls of crab roe bring to mind the colors of the setting sun.

对于粤轩的主厨马荣德来说,挪威红帝王蟹是巴 伦支海的真正霸王。他说:「只要看一眼,就能 看出这些红帝王蟹的鲜美,因为它们的品质太好 了。」为了展示红帝王蟹的卓越品质与百搭的料 理特性,马师傅制作了两道风格迥异但同样美味 的料理。第一道椒盐挪威红帝王蟹脚运用简单的 烹饪手法,让红帝王蟹本身的风味成为主角。这 道菜的重点是鲜甜多汁的蟹腿,马师傅将蟹腿放 入烧热的镬中急火快炒来锁住鲜味。虽然蟹腿的 美味也可以直接原汁原味享用,但他还是在蟹腿 上洒了盐巴和胡椒,并加入少许四川花椒油,来 达到香气四溢、令人垂涎欲滴的效果。

紧接在第一道菜后,第二道菜石林蟹影则 以匠心独运的手法烹制挪威红帝王蟹,同时展示 马师傅的烹饪技艺。他首先从蟹爪及关节当中将 蟹肉取出,然后与蛋白混合。接着,他将混合物 放进蟹壳中蒸熟,形成细腻的蒸蛋白。马师傅在 蒸蛋白上摆放宝塔花菜和塞满蟹肉和虾胶的羊肚 菌,模拟出一个覆满树木及青苔的宁静湖泊。最 后,他在蒸蛋白上覆盖一层玻璃芡及更多蟹肉, 让人联想到光线在水面上舞动、波光粼粼的 效果,而橙色的蟹籽则让人联想到夕阳的光彩。

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL
64 TK gifts from the earth
Steamed Egg with Norwegian Red King Crab and Fungus 石林蟹影 William Ma 马荣德

SKYE KYE

PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL
66 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 67
Norwegian King Scallop, Jerusalem Artichoke, Soissons Bean Cream, Noilly Prat Sauce, Oyster Leaf 挪威大扇贝、耶路撒冷洋蓟、 白腰豆奶油、娜利普莱 香艾酒酱、生蚝叶

“WHEN I USE A PRODUCT that’s of really high quality,” says Chef Florian Muller of SKYE, “I just want to do a simple preparation that will enhance its taste without covering it.” He is particularly impressed by Norwegian scallops, which he calls “pure diamonds of the sea” for their superior freshness, color, and sweetness.

To imbue these morsels with a rich and woodsy umami taste, Muller first smokes them with pine cones and dry tobacco leaves and then cooks them in butter over pine wood on a plancha grill. Ensuring that no part of the mollusk goes to waste, Muller cooks the roe and frills with Noilly Prat vermouth and farm-fresh cream to create a rich sauce. To further highlight the shellfish’s elegant succulence, he plates them with velvety Soissons bean purée and Jerusalem artichokes cooked in fish stock.

SKYE 主厨 Florian Muller 表示:「当我使用真 正优质的产品时,我只想用最简单的方式来烹 饪,在不掩盖原味的情况下提升食材的风味。」 挪威大扇贝在他心中留下特别深刻的印象,他 将这种扇贝称为「海洋之钻」,只因为它们的 鲜度、色泽及风味都无可匹敌。

为了替挪威大扇贝注入浓郁的木质鲜味, Florian 先用松果和干燥烟草熏烤扇贝,然后 再搭配黄油在松木上烤制。为了确保不浪费它 的任何一个部位,Florian 用娜利普莱香艾酒 酱和农场新鲜奶油烹制扇贝的卵及边缘,制作 出浓郁的酱汁。为了进一步突显贝类的优雅多

68 TK gifts from the earth
Florian Muller

Norway Lobster, Leek Compote, Oscietra Caviar, Champagne Marinière Sauce, Green Celery Gel

挪威海螯虾、糖煮韭菜、奥西特拉鱼子酱、 香槟酒酱、绿芹果冻

A second dish from the chef stars Norway lobster, which he favors for its pure, sweet taste. “I first poach the lobster in boiling water for a short moment,” he says, “and then plunge it in an ice bath to make it easy to remove from the shell. Then I simply pan-fry the Norway lobster in butter. For me, this is the most straightforward way to prepare it and retain its flavor.”

In tribute to the essence of the ocean, Muller plates the lobster with a quenelle of Oscietra caviar and a marinière sauce made with fresh local clams, shallots, and white wine. He rounds off the dish with a slow-cooked leek compote that complements the shellfish’s sweet profile and a fresh, herbaceous green celery gel.

汁,他还用天鹅绒般的白腰豆泥及用鱼汤烹制的耶路撒 洋蓟来装盘。

主厨的第二道菜是挪威海螯虾,他偏爱挪威海螯虾 纯正的甜味。他说:「我会先把海螯虾放在沸水中浸泡片 刻,然后再放入冷水中使其易于剥壳,再用黄油香煎。 我认为这是最直接的料理方式,且能保存它的风味。」

为了向海洋的精华致敬, Florian 用奥西特拉鱼子

酱,以及用当地新鲜蛤蜊、香葱和白葡萄酒调制的酱汁 装盘。最后,他用慢火烹制的韭菜及新鲜的绿芹果冻装 饰摆盘,成为这道菜的画龙点睛之笔。

gifts from the earth | TK | 69

SUSHI ZINC

70 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH
PRESENTED BY THE NORWEGIAN SEAFOOD COUNCIL
GIFTS FROM THE EARTH | TK | 71
Seared Scallop Wrapped with Guanciale, Japanese Aged Rice Vinegar Glaze, Lemon Honey-Pickled Japanese Citrus 风干猪脸肉卷香煎挪威大扇贝、 日式陈年醋酱、日式蜂蜜柠檬柑橘渍
Zinc Leung 72 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH

ACCORDING TO CHEF ZINC LEUNG of Sushi Zinc, scallops from Norway boast a firmer texture and more pronounced umami than those from Japan. To spotlight the endless possibilities of this premium ingredient, Leung came up with a dish that plays with a variety of tastes and textures. First, he wraps a scallop in guanciale and sears it on both sides until a golden caramelized crust forms on the outside while the center remains tender and buttery. Besides providing a crisp contrast to the scallop’s succulence, the guanciale also offers a pleasing unctuousness that balances the bivalve’s sweet salinity. To add an uplifting and vibrant acidity, Leung serves the seared mollusk over honey-pickled citrus and a glaze made with Japan’s famed Yohei aged rice vinegar.

After showing his penchant for boundary-breaking innovation, Leung returns to his sushi-making roots with Norway lobster. He notes that, unlike the chilled langoustine shipped from Hokkaido, Norway lobsters are delivered live to Hong Kong, thanks to the meticulous care that goes into the handling and transporting of Norwegian seafood.

Despite its seeming simplicity, the sushi’s preparation involves multiple intricate steps designed to reveal every flavorful subtlety that Norway lobster has to offer. Leung first boils the crustacean for a few seconds and then places it in an ice bath, leaving the meat tender and creamy but firm enough to be separated from the shell. The outer membrane is peeled and the shellfish is deveined before it’s marinated with syutou – salt-fermented fish entrails – which has a bold, deep-sea salinity that complements the Norway lobster’s delicate taste. Leung stir-fries the tomalley until fragrant and combines it with broth made from the lobster’s shells. The mixture is cooked down to create a deeply savory and aromatic sauce that is brushed over the Norway lobster just before serving. Eaten with vinegar rice and a dab of wasabi, this dish displays what Leung describes as “the perfect balance.”

根据 Sushi Zinc 的主厨 Zinc Leung 介绍,与日本 的扇贝相比,挪威大扇贝质地更坚实、鲜味更突 出。为了突显这种优质食材的无穷可能性,Zinc 设计了一道将各种口味和口感融为一体的料理。 首先,他用意式盐渍猪颊肉包裹扇贝,然后双面 煎烤,直到扇贝外层形成金黄色的焦糖化外皮, 而中间仍保持鲜嫩的黄油质感。除了与扇贝的多 汁形成鲜明对比之外,意式盐渍猪颊肉也提供了 一种令人愉悦的油润口感,平衡了扇贝的甜咸滋 味。为了增添令人口齿留香的酸度,Zinc 以日 式蜂蜜柠檬柑橘渍及日本著名的陈年醋酱搭配扇 贝。

除了展示自己对于突破和创新的构思,Zinc 也回归初心,以挪威海螯虾制作自己最熟悉的寿 司。他指出,与来自北海道的冰鲜海螯虾不同, 挪威海螯虾是活体抵达香港的,这都要归功于挪 威海鲜在处理和运输过程中的一丝不苟。

虽然看似简单,但寿司的制作过程中却包括 多个复杂步骤,目的都在于展现挪威海螯虾的每 一种微妙风味。Zinc 先将挪威海螯虾煮几秒钟, 然后放入冰水中冰镇,让肉质更鲜嫩细致,但又 结实弹牙,能够轻松与外壳分离。剥去外壳、去 除内脏之后,再用「酒盗」(用盐发酵的鱼内脏) 腌制,这种食材具有强烈的深海鲜味,与挪威海 螯虾的细致口感相得益彰。Zinc 将海螯虾肝炒至 散发香味,然后与虾壳熬制而成的汤汁混合。混 合后的汤汁在烹制过程中会产生浓郁的咸味和芬 芳香气,并且在盛盘上桌之前浇淋在挪威海螯虾 上。配上醋饭及少许芥末,这道挪威海螯虾寿司 就成为了 Zinc 口中的「完美平衡」。

gifts from the earth | TK | 73
Sushi Norway Lobster, Syutou Marinade 挪威海螯虾寿司,日式下酒菜「酒盗」

A Heritage 传世珍材 of Riches

Britain’s premium meat and dairy products are showcased in creative dishes from three renowned Hong Kong chefs.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
PRESENTED BY AHDB Roasted
烤牛肋排 GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 75
Rib of Beef

THE UK’S LUSH OPEN FIELDS and rolling hillsides, nurtured by the country’s time-honored farming traditions that span the generations, continue to yield an abundance to share with the world. While around 60 percent of Britain’s agricultural production is consumed domestically, its exports, including famed meat and dairy products, are sought after by top restaurants across the globe for their superior flavor, wholesomeness, and sustainability.

To highlight the the exceptional quality, variety, and versatility of these ingredients, the Agriculture and Horticulture Development Board (AHDB) has launched its “Rich with Heritage” campaign. As part of the initiative, three of Hong Kong’s culinary masters, Chef Tiffany Lo of jean may, Chef Saito Chau of Chinesology, and Chef Adam Catterall of Roganic, have been invited to express their own personal styles in original dishes that make the most of Britain’s finest cheeses and meats.

英国拥有丰美广阔的田野和起伏的丘陵,在历 史悠久的农业发展下持续供应丰富的农产品。

尽管英国有六成的农产品对内供应,但其农业 出口也是举世闻名。其中,英国的肉品和乳制 品风味卓越、有益健康且采用可持续农法,因 而受到全球顶级餐厅的青睐。

为了突显这些食材的非凡品质、多样性和 可塑性,英国农业与园艺发展局(AHDB)推 出「传世珍材」活动,并邀请三位香港名厨 jean may 主厨 Tiffany Lo、唐述厨艺总监周世 韬,以及 Roganic 行政主厨 Adam Catterall, 以原创料理诠释英国优质奶酪与肉品,借以展 现独特的个人料理风格。

本次活动精选英国顶级农产品,包括来

Bix Amber mist 琥珀雾 Red Storm 红色风暴 Black bomber 黑色原味 Rock Star 英国威尔士岩洞 熟成切达奶酪 Beechwood
76 TK gifts from the earth
Blue Stilton 斯蒂尔顿蓝奶酪

English Sausages and Cumberland Sausages 英国香肠和坎伯兰香肠 Striploin 前腰脊

Among these are a variety of beef cuts from Alec Jarrett, a familyowned producer located between Bristol and Bath. Founded by its namesake in 1926, the company began by supplying meat to local butchers before growing on a national and then an international scale. Jarrett, which prides itself on the highest ethical, sustainability, and quality standards, processes its products in one location and is in complete control of its bio-security systems. All of its livestock is sourced from local farms, to both support the community and reduce transport mileage.The “Rich with Heritage” menus of the three featured restaurants also shine a light on British artisanal cheeses from a range of elite purveyors. These provide a diverse and eclectic selection of offerings from producers who follow traditional handcrafted methods of making and aging fine cheeses.

自 Alec Jarrett 的牛肉产品。Alec Jarrett 成立于 1926 年,并以创办人的名字命名,是一间位于 布里斯托尔和巴斯之间的家族企业。这间肉品 公司最初以供应给当地肉铺起家,而后逐渐扩 展至国内和国际市场。Alec Jarrett 以最高的道 德、可持续和品质标准自豪,其产品在单一地 点进行加工,以利完整控管生物安全系统。所 有的家畜都源自当地农场,既支持社区发展, 又减少了运输里程。 此外,本次「传世珍材」菜单也可以找到 由知名英国奶酪供应商制作的手工奶酪。这些 供应商精选以传统工艺制作和熟成的奶酪,并 提供丰富多样的品项。

Beef Mince 免治牛肉 Tenderloin 牛柳 Featherblade 牛肩翼板肉
PRESENTED BY AHDB gifts from the earth | TK | 77
Tenderloin 牛柳
Rustic, classical cuisine in a new light

以创新手法呈现传统乡村美食

jean may

曾拜名厨 Pierre Kauffman 为师的 Tiffany Lo 主厨从小受家人影响,练就一手广 东上海菜绝活。其中,她的祖母对她 影响甚深,因而她将餐厅命名为「jean may」,作为纪念。在踏上厨艺之路前, Tiffany 曾是一名受过训练的病理学家, 也曾从事银行业工作。除了深受祖母影 响,她也认为自己的料理风格与母亲非 常相像。

「我的食物朴实却丰富,希望让每 个人都能享受美食。英国产肉品相当美 味,即使是不那么广为人知的部位也是 如此,所以我想让顾客透过我的菜式来 探索它们。举例来说,我的红酒炖牛小 排佐法式马铃薯泥,就选用了英国带骨 肋排。这道菜看似简单,实则费工费时, 处处充满了学问。此外,这道菜也象征 了我中西合璧的料理风格。考虑到这道 菜需小火慢炖,我将牛肉纵切处理。」

CHEF TIFFANY LO, who trained with renowned chef Pierre Kauffman, grew up preparing homemade meals of Cantonese-Shanghainese flavors under the influence of her family of excellent cooks, including her grandmother, in whose honor she named her restaurant. “In a way, my cooking style is very similar to my Mum’s,” says Lo, who was a trained pathologist and pursued a career in banking before following her heart into the kitchen.

“My food is rustic and rich and meant to be enjoyed by everyone. British meats, including the less well-known cuts, are so flavorful that I’ve put them on my menu for diners to discover and enjoy,” she says. “In my Red Wine-Braised Beef Short Ribs with Pomme Purée, I’ve chosen to especially showcase British bone-in rib. This recipe might look simple, but there’s a lot of work and time that go into making it and distilling the flavors – there’s a lot of complexity to the dish. It’s a combination of my culinary influences along with Western cooking techniques. Because of the slow-cooking process, I’ve chosen a down-toearth cut for this dish.”

Respect for nature and at-its-peak produce are what inspire her most. “I work with whatever is available at the market in every season. We also have partnerships with suppliers and farmers – they’re symbiotic relationships where I ask for certain ingredients to create a new recipe and am always open to exploring unusual ones.”

她对于大自然和顶级食材的敬重, 是料理创作上的灵感来源。她说:「我喜 欢利用菜市场可以买到的当季食材入馔。 我们也会与供应商和农民合作,请他们 提供新食谱所需的特定食材,他们也总 是愿意探索不寻常的食材,进而发展出 彼此共生的关系。」

说到她的两道猪肉料理 苏格兰 蛋佐英式泡菜和乡村猪肉酱,Tiffany 介 绍:「苏格兰蛋外层的香肠使用美味的猪 肩肉制成,非常适合拿来制作苏格兰蛋。 猪肩肉的油脂分布均匀,味道相当浓郁。 这个部位常常被大家忽略,却可以让肉 酱更容易成型,风味也更鲜明。」

jean may 的综合英国奶酪拼盘严选 三种制作费工的英国奶酪:气味浓烈的 斯蒂尔顿蓝奶酪;拥有奶油质感的黑色 原味切达奶酪;在威尔斯史诺多尼亚国 家公园板岩洞穴内熟成时间长达十八个 月英国威尔士岩洞熟成达奶酪。Tiffany 也计划将这些特色奶酪融入到未来的新 菜式中。

Chef Tiffany Lo of jean may jean may主厨Tiffany Lo
78 TK gifts from the earth

Of her two pork dishes, Scotch Egg Piccalilli and Country Terrine, Lo remarks, “The pork shoulder used in the sausage is delicious and works beautifully in the Scotch egg. This part of the pig has an excellent distribution of fat and a full flavor. It’s a part of the animal that people often overlook, but it gives the terrine a perfectly rounded and robust taste.”

Three artisanal cheeses were chosen for jean may’s sumptuous British cheese board: Blue Stilton, a classically pungent English cheese; Black Bomber Cheddar, delightfully creamy yet grainy; and eighteen-month-cave-aged Rock Star, another variety of English cheddar matured in the slate caverns of Snowdonia National Park in Wales. Lo also plans to use these standouts in new dishes when and where inspiration hits.

↑ British Cheese Board 综合英国奶酪拼盘
PRESENTED BY AHDB gifts from the earth | TK | 79
→ Scotch Egg Piccalilli 苏格兰蛋佐英式泡菜

Chinesology Chinese classics from a modern perspective

从现代角度看中国经典

WITH MORE THAN TWENTY YEARS OF EXPERIENCE in such Chinese cuisines as Yue (Cantonese), Chuan (Sichuanese), and Jing (Pekingese), Chef Saito Chau has developed a repertoire of dishes that are modern in approach yet retain classic flavors and preparation techniques.

“My ingredients must be authentic and come from a sustainable source,” the chef remarks on one of the cardinal principles of his creative process. “Texture and flavor are also key.” And it’s precisely because of the unique textures and flavors of innards and offal, as well as their versatility with a variety of cooking methods and marinades, that these delicacies at the heart of traditional Chinese cuisine feature in many of Chau’s dishes.

In one of his personal favorites, British Ox Tongue, Honeycomb Tripe, Pickles, Pepper Broth, he works a variation on a traditional dish by switching the tripe from pork to beef. Its more intense flavor is perfectly balanced by a broth with a slow-cooked chicken stock base made by steaming a fowl for two hours and then deep-frying it in a wok till golden brown. It is added to the broth along with preserved vegetables, radishes, the beef tripe, and crushed pepper to create a complex, rich brew that is tart, savory, and a bit

周世韬师傅拥有超过二十年的厨艺经验,擅 长粤菜、川菜和京菜等菜系。这次他带来一 系列注入现代精神、却不失经典风味和技艺 的新式中菜。

在料理创作上,周师傅有着自己的坚持: 「我的用料必须可靠实在且符合可持续标准。 口感和口味也是一大关键。」正因为他对于口 感和口味的坚持,让传统中国菜核心的内脏 料理,成为他的招牌菜。内脏拥有独特的质 地和味道,其料理方法和腌料也变化万千, 是适合展现周师傅料理精神的完美食材。

周师傅其中一道最喜欢的菜是胡椒咸菜 煮牛舌和金钱肚,代替猪肚的牛肚是这道传 统菜式的创新巧思。为了增添风味,这道菜 以鸡汤为基底,先蒸鸡肉两小时再入油锅炸 至金黄,最后慢火熬煮。他把牛肚和鸡汤、 咸菜、萝卜和胡椒碎一起熬煮,创造咸香中

PRESENTED BY AHDB 80 TK gifts from the earth

← British Ox Tongue, Honeycomb Tripe, Pickles, Pepper Broth and British Ox Tongue, Honeycomb Tripe, Spicy Sichuan Sauce 胡椒咸菜煮牛舌和金钱肚及 川辣凉拌牛舌和金钱肚

→ Saito Chau, Culinary Director of Chinesology 唐述厨艺总监周世韬

spicy. “We also tend to use ingredients like tomatoes to balance the flavors and add some acidity,” says Chau, “and we extend the braising time of the beef tripe for a deliciously tender texture.”

His second “Rich with Heritage” dish, British Ox Tongue, Honeycomb Tripe, Spicy Sichuan Sauce, is prepared in the style of a Sichuan cold starter that is traditionally made with lung. The sauce is a medley of ingredients: crushed peanuts, sesame sauce, homemade Sichuan oil, Sichuan peppers, fermented chili bean paste (douban jiang), sesame oil, vinegar, and his special chili oil. The beef tripe and tongue are thinly sliced, mixed with sliced cucumbers, and presented like a mountain – a modernized “lo-hei” dish to toss with chopsticks with the classic spice-numbing “mala” flavors, typical of Sichuan cuisine.

“In a nod to my Chinese heritage, I’m inspired by the golden era of the Tang dynasty, its delicacies and the richness and complexities and presentation of its cuisine. I’ve put everything I’ve learned into my dishes – the goal is always to create the traditional taste of classic Chinese dishes with a modern touch and a little creativity in plating.”

带点酸和辣的风味。他说:「我们使用像是 番茄之类的食材,以平衡味道并增加些许 酸度。此外,我们也延长牛肚炖煮的时间, 使口感更软嫩。」

周师傅为「传世珍材」准备的第二道 菜是川辣凉拌牛舌和金钱肚,传统上是使 用肺脏制作的凉拌小菜。这道菜使用的四 川麻辣酱汁包括多种元素:花生碎、麻酱、 自制四川油、四川花椒、豆瓣酱、麻油、 醋和他的特制辣椒油。牛肚和牛舌薄片与 黄瓜丝混合,堆叠成小山般的形状,像是 现代版的「捞起」,适合用筷子拌食。 他说:「我深受唐代美食的丰富性、复 杂性及呈现形式启发,把一切所学与我的 料理结合 只为了创作出兼具传统灵魂 和现代创意的新式中国菜,向中国千年历 史致敬。」

gifts from the earth TK | 81
BY AHDB
Roganic PRESENTED
82 TK GIFTS FROM THE EARTH
Frozen Tunworth Cheese, Alpine Plum, Buckwheat Crumb and Lemon Thyme 冷冻Tunworth奶酪、阿尔卑斯 李子、荞麦碎和柠檬百里香

Respecting food sources in modern British cuisine

重视食材来源的现代英国料理

GIFTS FROM THE EARTH TK | 83

ONE-MICHELIN-STAR ROGANIC offers the best of modern British cuisine from its founder, renowned chef Simon Rogan. It prides itself on using the best sustainable produce, paying heed to food miles, and using local and regional ingredients whenever possible.

For “Rich with Heritage,” Roganic’s Executive Chef Adam Catterall has chosen three British cheeses: Baron Bigod, with characteristics of a French Brie; award-winning Westcombe Cheddar from the traditional producers of Somerset Cheddar; and award-winning Tunworth, an English take on Camembert.

On Roganic’s approach to menu design, Catterall remarks, “We always begin with small one-bite snacks to whet the appetite.” A case in point is his standout starter course, Fuseau Artichoke and Whipped Baron Bigod, Urban Mushroom Farms’ Oyster Mushroom XO . “The cheese tart snack made with Baron Bigod is part of the medley of starters. One of the snacks is a mushroom croustade – a tall tart filled with confit Jerusalem artichoke dressed in mushroom XO sauce – made from local oyster mushrooms, and we finish the snacks with a decadent and rich Baron Bigod mousse cheese tart.

“Cheese is one of the only things that we need to import, and British cheese is a great fit with our restaurant. Going back to the source, we have such a long history of British dairy farms that produce wonderful milk. Lots of great cheeses are produced by these farmers within their own farms, which means they don’t have to travel far for processing. And there is little to no need to pasteurize the milk, which

Executive Chef

Adam Catterall of Roganic

Roganic行政主厨

Adam Catterall →

Truffle Pudding Caramelised in Birch Sap, Fermented Black Garlic and Aged Westcombe 松露布丁蘸桦树汁, 发酵黑蒜和陈年 Westcombe奶酪

米其林一星餐厅 Roganic 为食客带来创 办人 Simon Rogan 的现代英国料理精华。

Roganic 严选优质可持续食材且重视食材 里程,尽可能使用本地或邻近地区的食材。

Roganic 的行政主厨 Adam Catterall 为了「传世珍材」,选择了三种英式奶酪: 具有法国布里奶酪特性的 Baron Bigod ;曾 获大奖肯定、来自传统 Somerset 切达奶 酪生产商的 Westcombe 切达奶酪;曾获 奖的英式卡芒贝尔 Tunworth 奶酪。

针对本次的菜单设计,Adam 分享道: 「我们会以一口大小的小点心引起顾客的食 欲。」他的开胃菜洋蓟佐 Baron Bigod 奶油 奶酪、「香城遗菇」秀珍菇 XO 酱,就是一 个很好的例子。他说:「使用 Baron Bigod 奶酪的这道菜是开胃料理之一。其他小点 有蘑菇脆饼 使用了油封洋蓟和在地产 秀珍菇制作的 XO 酱,最后以 Baron Bigod 奶酪小塔作结。」

他说:「奶酪是我们少数需要进口的 食材之一,而英国奶酪非常适合我们的餐 厅。英国拥有许多历史悠久且牛乳品质优 良的牧场,而许多出色的奶酪都是由这些 农民于自家农场内生产。这意味着它们无 ↖

84 TK gifts from the earth

helps to maintain the characteristics and personality of the dairy in the cheese.”

Roganic’s Truffle Pudding Caramelised in Birch Sap, Fermented Black Garlic and Aged Westcombe is all about balance. “The Westcombe we use to finish has a lactic quality to it and a citrus note,” says Catterall. “We use quite a bit of dairy in this dish, and the cheese has a nice acidity to balance the earthiness of the truffles and the richness of the pudding. It’s shaved very finely, and it’s light and doesn’t add any denseness to the dish.”

One of Chef Simon Rogan’s favorites, Tunworth cheese from Hampshire, is made into a unique dessert called Frozen Tunworth Cheese, Alpine Plum, Buckwheat Crumb and Lemon Thyme, which is served in a way similar to a cheese course. The Tunworth is first turned into a custard base and then frozen with nitrogen. “It almost looks like Tunworth cheese rocks,” notes Catterall. “We pair it with a plum compote made with Alpine plums from Taiwan grown at high altitude, which gives them a long growing season, some lemon thyme gel, and puffed buckwheat.”

需长途跋涉就能进行加工,几乎不需要对牛奶进行巴 氏消毒,有助于保留奶酪的特性和乳制品的个性。」

Roganic 的 Westcombe 布丁、焦糖桦树汁、司 陶特醋、陈年 Westcombe 奶酪是一道食材完美平衡 的代表作。Adam 说:「在这道菜中,我们使用了相 当多的奶制品。其中,我们以有乳酸质和柑橘风味的 Westcombe 奶酪收尾,这种酸度可以平衡松露和布丁 的浓郁味道。奶酪会以细丝的方式呈现,风味上相当 轻盈,不会给这道菜增添任何的负担。」

Simon Rogan 主厨以其最喜欢的 Hampshire

Tunworth 奶酪制作甜点 冷冻 Tunworth 奶酪、阿 尔卑斯李子、荞麦碎和柠檬百里香,并以一般奶酪料 理常见的方式呈现。Tunworth 奶酪首先被制成奶油 奶酪基底,然后被液氮冷冻。Adam 说:「它看起来像 Tunworth 硬质奶酪,我使用了高山李子制成的果酱进 行搭配。这种李子在台湾的高海拔地区生长,生长时 间较长。此外,甜点也使用了柠檬百里香果酱和荞麦 碎作为点缀。」

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Setting the local pace for environmental responsibility, UTM Educational Restaurant is the first establishment in Macau to receive Michelin’s special award for sustainable practices.

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SILO, IN LONDON’S ever-so-woke borough of Hackney, is regarded as the world’s first zero-waste restaurant and the finest of its kind. Its environmental policies apply not only to food but also, for example, to tableware, furniture, and light fittings created out of upcycled materials that would otherwise have been consigned to the trash.

In order to recognize such exemplary eco-friendly accomplishments, Michelin in 2020 announced its Green Star award. Since then, four restaurants in Hong Kong have received the recognition, as well as one in Macau, the Educational Restaurant at the Macao University of Tourism (UTM), which, in addition to its status as a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant for a number of years, has held its Green Star for the past four consecutive years.

To be awarded such an honor is quite a feat in a place like Macau, where there’s negligible arable land and limited access to locally grown produce. Kudos must go to the General Manager of The Educational Restaurant at UTM Hans Rasmussen, a Macau-born Eurasian, who has been based at the restaurant for a decade. Prior to that, he’d served as a chef in Copenhagen, a city where high operating costs are an added incentive for restaurants to avoid wasting anything.

Michelin has no specific formula for awarding a Green Star. Rather, it recognizes that every restaurant – as well as the region in which it operates – has its own unique set of conditions. Inspectors may, for instance, consider the provenance of ingredients and the seasonal changing of menus, but they are also interested in a restaurant’s

英国伦敦哈克尼区的 Silo 餐厅不只被誉为全球第 一家零废弃餐厅,更是同业中的佼佼者。其绿色 理念不只体现于料理中,连餐具、室内摆设和灯 饰都是由再生材料制成,是一间真正落实零废弃 的餐厅。 《米其林指南》为了表扬这些在可持续发展 方面成就出色的餐厅,于 2020 年设 立米其林绿星评选。自这个奖项设 立以来,除了四间香港餐厅荣获肯 定,澳门旅游大学教学餐厅也获得 这项殊荣,除了获米其林必比登多 年推荐,更连续四年荣获米其林绿 星肯定。 澳门旅游大学教学餐厅位处可耕地稀缺、 本地农产品有限的澳门,能获得绿星肯定实属 不易。这项殊荣应该归功于餐厅总经理 Hans Rasmussen。欧亚混血的他出生于澳门,已在教 学餐厅服务长达十年。在此之前,他曾在丹麦哥 本哈根担任厨师,当地的经营成本高昂,他希望 能尽力避免任何形式的浪费。 米其林绿星没有制式化的评选机制,而是 会将每间餐厅及其所在地区条件的独特性纳入考 量。例如评审员可能会考虑食材来源和季节菜单 的替换,同时也会关注餐厅的环境足迹、可持续 经营方法及食物废弃物管理概念。

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Chef Hans Rasmussen

environmental footprint, approach to sustainability, and concepts regarding food waste management.

According to Rasmussen, there is so much he can’t do in Macau that he focuses instead on what can be done. But even a move toward a more plant-based menu requires what he calls “core competencies and inspiration,” which are not necessarily easy to uncover, and he shies away from flying in organic produce from distant lands. So right now, there are only two vegetarian items on the menus, a salad of green and red leaves with marinated fennel, tomato, lotus root, and sesame-honey vinaigrette and The Impossible Meat Pie created with vegetables that include beans and mushrooms.

His central emphasis is a commitment to the three “Rs”: reduce, reuse, recycle. And while growing mushrooms in coffee grounds might sound sexy, Rasmussen is more interested in policies and certifications like HACCP and ISO 14001, in reducing spoilage through daily waste measurements and precise fridge management, in composting, in

Hans 表示,有很多事情他在澳门是做不到 的,他也因此更专注于能够做到的事情。不过, 即使是转攻植物性料理,要做出好料理必须具 备的「核心竞争力和灵感」同样不可或缺。尽 管在澳门做素食料理的难度颇高,他也不愿意 使用来自遥远地区的有机产品。因此,目前菜 单上只有两道素食料理:一道是由绿色和红色 叶菜、腌渍茴香、番茄、莲藕和芝麻蜂蜜醋酱 制成的沙拉,另一道则是使用豆类和蘑菇制成 的植物肉。

他的理念以 3R 为核心:减量(Reduce)、 重复使用(Reuse)、回收(Recycle)。在理念 实践上,用咖啡渣种植蘑菇听起来很吸引,但 Hans 更感兴趣的是 HACCP、ISO 14001 等绿色 政策和认证,或透过每日测量废弃物和冰箱管 理以减少食材耗损,或制作堆肥,或在必要时

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cutting portion sizes if necessary, and in carefully controlling how much food goes onto the buffet table, since anything that has been sitting out can’t be repurposed.

And far more is happening at the restaurant than hitting the latest food safety target. A number of interesting initiatives are taking place on the UTM campus, including spaces dedicated to experimental hydroponics and aquaponics. Prior attempts to nurture vines and fig trees were failures, but today, carrots, eggplants, okra, turmeric, ginger, basil, mint, chilies, lemon grass, and other crops grow in multiple wooden boxes on the rooftops of classrooms, and bay leaf plants and lemon trees are thriving. Such endeavors not only serve to educate urban students (who might not know that carrots grow underground in the soil and have leafy fronds or that lemon grass is harvested from a bush) but also supply about half of the herbs used in the kitchen. And surpluses of items like rosemary and thyme are dried and beautifully packaged in gift boxes for sale at the restaurant.

减少食物份量,或严格控管自助餐的食物供 量,因为食物一旦出餐便无法再利用。

除了以达成最新食品安全标准为目标 外,餐厅还有许多有趣的事情正在发生。举 例来说,澳门旅游大学正在校园内规划一些 专门进行水耕栽培和养鱼的实验空间。虽然 之前培育藤蔓和无花果树的尝试没有成功, 但如今胡萝卜、茄子、秋葵、姜黄、姜、罗勒、 薄荷、辣椒、柠檬草等植蔬在教室顶层的木 箱中顺利生长,月桂树和柠檬树更是长得相 当茁壮。这些心血结晶为厨房提供大量的香 草,也让一众在都市长大的学生了解到胡萝 卜其实是在土中生长、茂密的羽叶会露出土 壤,或柠檬草其实是从灌木中采摘的。剩余 的迷迭香和百里香经干燥后,会被包装成精 美的礼盒,于餐厅贩售。

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Produce grown on the rooftop of UTM 在澳门旅游大学顶层 种植的农产品
妙手回春

delicate operations

What do you get when you combine the skills of a cardiovascular surgeon and a top chef?

THE HEART SURGEON’S COOKBOOK is a collection of nine intricate recipes designed to test and improve a surgeon’s manual and mental dexterity in the kitchen. It all started when Global medtech provider Getinge, headquartered in Sweden, invited New York-based cardiovascular and thoracic surgeon Dr. Nirav Patel to join forces with Chef Frederik Berselius, founder and owner of two-Michelin-star Aska in New York. The result is a unique culinary training tool for surgeons.

当心脏血管外科医生进入厨房,他们的一双巧手可 以创造出什么意想不到的价值?

“Extraordinary dexterity is something surgeons and chefs have in common,” says Berselius. “The most exciting challenge with this project was to try to look at food through the eyes of a surgeon.” Dr. Patel, who performs around three hundred fifty procedures each year and is also a keen home cook, agrees: “Without precision, surgery is not effective – you must understand the importance of being effortlessly nimble and precise. It’s not that hard to see the parallels with high-end cooking.”

Each of the cookbook’s recipes focuses on a specific technique employed in the operating theater. Utensils used include syringes, scalpels, tweezers, and needles and thread. The book opens with a series of practice exercises, such as using tweezers to remove every seed from a strawberry without harming the flesh and

《心脏外科医生的食谱》收录九道考验并提升外 科医生在厨房内的手艺和心思灵巧程度的食谱。瑞 典医疗技术供应商 Getinge 邀请了纽约心脏血管和胸 腔外科医生 Nirav Patel 博士与纽约 Aska 餐厅创始人兼负责人,同时也是米其林 二星主厨的 Frederik Berselius 携手合作, 这个专为外科医生而设计的独特烹饪培训 課程就此诞生。

Frederik 说:「我们从外科医生和厨师共有的 一双巧手出发,尝试探索外科医生眼中的料理,过 程极具挑战性却也令人期待。」本身就是居家大厨的 Nirav 博士手术经验丰富 ,每年需主理多达三百五十 多场手术。他也同意 Frederik 的话:「讲求精准的手 术才能达到预期效果,这也是为什么所谓『游刃有余』 对医生而言相当重要。料理的最高境界也是一样的 道理。」

食谱中的每一道菜都聚焦其中一种手术室常见 的技术,所使用的器具包括注射器、手术刀、镊子 和针线。本书以一系列练习开场,像是在不伤害果

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creating a pattern of dots as small as one millimeter in diameter with a syringe.

Among the book’s nine complex and remarkably beautiful dishes is Hake with Swedish Dark Beer, Flowering Dill, and Hasselback Turnips. First, the individual portions of fish are brined. “Injecting the flesh with brine is similar to injection of saline solution into a specific layer of a body part,” says Dr. Patel. “And the anatomical surgical dissection of the fish along the muscle line is great practice for avoiding a disruption of the tissue.”

Another dish of roasted quail with truffle and ramp presents special challenges to both chef and surgeon. The quail is deboned, but its frail skin, more prone to rupture than that of other birds, is left on. The quail is then stuffed and the skin sewn back together. “It requires surgical precision to keep it intact and prevent tears, a basic principle of surgical stitching,” explains the doctor.

肉的情况下使用镊子取出草莓种子,或利用注射 器创造直径仅一毫米的点状图案。 本书收录了九道令人叹为观止的菜肴,其中 一道是鳕鱼佐瑞典黑啤酒、开花莳萝、风琴萝卜。 首先,鱼的不同部位须分别进行盐渍处理。Nirav 博士说:「注射盐水进鱼体时所需的技巧,与手术 时在特定人体部位注射生理盐水时所需的技巧类 似。此外,解剖鱼身时沿肌肉线切割的细节,也 是手术时避免组织破坏的重要练习。」

另一项对厨师和外科医生下的战帖,藏在烤 鹌鹑佐松露和野韭葱背后。鹌鹑先去骨并保留外 皮,待填料后再将外皮缝合。Nirav 博士特别解释 道:「由于鹌鹑的外皮较其他鸟类脆弱,透过高度 精准的外科缝合技巧,可以防止撕裂并保持表皮 完整。」

The Heart Surgeon’s Cookbook is available for free online browsing or download at getinge.com/int/campaigns/cookbook.

《心脏外科医生的食谱》可在 getinge.com/int/campaigns/cookbook 免费线上浏览或下载。

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Dr. Nirav Patel, MD (left) and Chef Frederik Berselius (right)
BOOK REVIEW

A new take on classic Barcelona bikini

Rasmus Munk’s “Sunburnt Bikini” is a ball of mochi dough that is cryo-fried (meaning it goes from -60 to 200˚C degrees in an instant) to create a crisp exterior and chewy sweet interior filled with Gruyère cheese and Joselito ham.

Sunburnt Bikini是Rasmus Munk 对巴塞罗那著名bikini三文治的 全新演绎,麻糬面团经过冷冻 油炸(这意味着它可以在瞬间 从 -60 度升至 200°C),以创造 酥脆的外皮,香甜耐嚼的内馅是 格鲁耶尔奶酪和Joselito火腿。

toast,
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意与味

Danish Chef Rasmus Munk of Alchemist uses food to question and communicate. thoughtful gastronomy

NOSTALGIC FOR AN ERA that existed before his professional career began, thirty-two-year-old Chef Rasmus Munk of Alchemist in Copenhagen enthuses about the pre-social-media culinary world. “Those were the days when you had a lot of time to imagine what a dish would be like before you ordered it and to reflect on the memory of it afterwards,” he says. “I was born in 1991, so social media has been part of my life since I was very young. Now you see polished successful dishes posted across social platforms – you get all the information as soon as you want it.”

He wonders if such innovation, while helping to connect the world, may have curbed creativity. “Although it’s amazing to be able to find out instantly exactly what is being served in a particular region in China, we do need a balance, as it can limit the imagination. Every five to ten years, you start to see restaurants that look very like each other.”

Munk, among the most imaginative chefs on the international culinary scene, helms two-Michelin-star Alchemist, an immersive wonderland of challenging dishes, playfulness, lighting effects, and soundscapes. A visit there becomes a journey that moves guests physically and emotionally from realm to more-extraordinary realm within a vast multi-roomed space and then challenges them to address difficult questions about hunger, food waste, and sustainability.

哥本哈根 Alchemist 餐厅的 32 岁主厨 Rasmus Munk 相当憧憬自己开始职涯前的时光,也就 是社交媒体兴起前的厨艺世界。他说:「以前, 你在点菜前会有很多时间想像待那道菜会是什 么样子。即使离开餐桌后,记忆仍历历在目。 我出生于 1991 年,所以社交媒体 从小就是我生活的一部分。现在 社交平台上尽是精美的有名菜肴照 片,你想知道的一搜就有,即时获 得所有信息。」

他对这转换保持质疑,虽然社交媒体有 助于连接世界各地,但同时也可能抑制人们的 创造力。他说:「社交媒体便利得令人惊叹, 你只要上网就可以马上找到中国某地区的某道 菜。不过,这种便利性也可能局限了美食的想 像力,所以我们更需要平衡,不然五到十年, 你就会发现很多餐厅已变得大同小异。」

作为国际美食界想像力最丰富的主厨 之一,Rasmus 所主理的米其林二星餐厅 Alchemist,是一个总是超越美食边界、用餐 氛围趣味、声光效果俱佳的沉浸式秘境。来到

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“Happy Ending”: A chocolate shell is filled with cashew cream and custard apple purée and then wrapped in gold leaf.

Happy Ending:金箔包裹的巧克力外壳 内的是腰果奶油和奶油苹果泥

Munk feels that excellent cuisine should stimulate all five senses but that it can do more, that it should have a profound impact on the person who eats it. “I’m researching the psychology of dining, understanding how to manipulate the diner – not in a malevolent way, but rather seeing how we can create emotion.”

One of his gastronomic creations, a lifelike replica of a human tongue called Tongue Kiss, can provoke amusement or anger in his guests. “Mostly they laugh,” he says. Describing his dishes as “edible impressions,” he makes them sound more like teaching moments than food.

Alchemist has a thematic structure that Munk describes as similar in principle to a theatrical production – guests are led through the dining experience from room to room, sometimes eating, sometimes observing, always participating. “It’s very cinematic,” he says. “There’s an installation room, light, people talking, and then we take the guests and sit them down and serve them something very settling like a bikini toast or an omelet.”

Some of his dishes deliver serious messages in stark and shocking ways. At the 2023 San Sebastian Gastronomika symposium, Munk showcased a recipe that was a comment on world hunger. “I wanted to recreate the image of a child starving to death,” he says. “We printed a silver rib cage in 3D and used it as a platter for some sustainable rabbit meat.” This was accompanied by a photo of undernourished children.

这里用餐,宾客可以从一个广阔的多房间空间中, 开展一趟不断突破身心灵的旅程,同时引导他们 直视思考饥饿、食物浪费和环境可持续等议题。

Rasmus 认为好的料理不只可以刺激五感,它 可以激起用餐者产生深刻的影响。他说:「我正在 研究用餐的心理学,了解如何引导用餐者,我不是 指恶意操控,而是想探索用餐体验可以创造出什 么情感。」

他有一道人舌造型的美食创作名为「舌吻」, 逼真的造型可引起用餐者愉悦或愤怒的情绪。他 说:「大多数时候他们笑了。」他将自己的菜式描 述为「品尝式印象」;与其说那些是美食,更像是 被美食上了一课。

Alchemist 在空间主题设计上,犹如剧场制

作。客人会被引导到一个个房间,时而用餐、时 而观察,无时无刻都在参与这场演出。他说:「这 非常『剧场式』:在布满装置艺术的房间,有光线, 人们交谈着 ,然后我们带领客人坐下,给他们端 上疗愈的食物,如是火腿奶酪吐司或蛋卷。」

他的部分菜式创作以鲜明而震撼人心的方式 传达了严肃的信息。在 2023 年圣赛巴斯提安烹饪 艺术研讨会上,Rasmus 展示了一份思考世界饥饿 问题的食谱。他说:「我想在餐桌上重现一个因饥 饿而死的孩子的形象,我们用 3D 列印机打造了一

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Five impressions from Alchemist: “Tongue Kiss” (top left), “1984” (top right), “Andy Warhol” (middle), “Antwitch” (bottom left), and “Burnout Chicken” (bottom right) Alchemist的五道「品尝式印象」: “Tongue Kiss” (左上), “1984” (右上), “Andy Warhol” (中), “Antwitch” (左下), and “Burnout Chicken” (右下)

“I can’t go in the kitchen and just make something,” he explains. “It has to resonate with me. It has to mean something. This starving kid, this paradox – why are we throwing out all this food rather than solving world hunger? You pay a lot at Alchemist, and it’s not too much to ask diners to make a donation when they get back home.”

Another challenging dish is blood ice cream with a QR code that invites guests to join an organ donation register. And such thinking about the bigger picture is not limited to the confines of Alchemist. Munk engages in community projects like feeding the homeless and working with a hospital to create tempting meals for child cancer patients.

When the restaurant first opened, diners were confronted with an intense, all-encompassing sensory experience. “We started with fifty edible impressions,” he says. “People were sitting surrounded by this intense 3D-universe and being bombarded with dishes at the same time. After a while, I realized that we needed to take breaks, so guests had a chance to take in what was going on and focus on the food.”

There is something of the movie director about the chef, who admits to being very visual when creating experiences for his guests and that his ideas start with a physical form in his mind’s eye. “I see colors and shapes and I understand that it has to be this particular way. It can be annoying

个银制的胸腔,里面放了永续认证的兔肉。」随 餐点还附上了一张营养不良儿童的照片。

他解释:「我不能只是单纯进厨房烹饪,我 更须和我的每道菜有所共鸣。美食创作背后必须 有意义,正视这个饥饿的孩子,这个矛盾。为什 么我们要扔掉大量的食物,而不是解决全球饥饿 的问题?如果客人可以在 Alchemist 消费,那引 导他们回家后也参与捐款并不过分。」

另一道具有挑战性的料理,是一道附有 QR 码的血冰淇淋,客人可以扫码、并登记加入器官 捐赠行列。此外,Rasmus 不只在餐厅内展现如 此远大的视野,他也参与社区活动,包括提供食 物给无家可归的街友,或是和医院合作,为癌症 儿童烹制可口的餐点。

餐厅初开张时,用餐者的感官体验极强烈 和多元。他说:「那时打造的『品尝式印象』有 五十道,大家坐在『3D 宇宙』中,菜式也一直 被端上。开始一段时间后,我意识到我们需要放 慢,让客人有机会理解过程,并专注于食物上。」

对于这位主厨而言,他觉得自己有点像电 影导演,因为他在创造用餐体验时,脑海中已预

The planetarium dome in the main dining room at Alchemist displays a projection called “heartbeat” that raises awareness about organ donation.

餐厅的天文馆圆顶的投影名为“heartbeat”,以提高人们对器官捐赠的认识。

Rasmus

Rasmus Munk在日德兰半岛兰讷斯郊外的一个乡村小镇长大。

for others, and it takes a lot of work. Sometimes it’s already complete in my head, and other times the team might make it even better.”

Although guests are carefully guided through the array of sensory offerings at Alchemist, Munk enjoys the thought that, as with all art forms, people will experience his restaurant in unique personal ways. “We had a violinist playing a sad song in a room. It was meant to be a time to reflect, but someone said it felt like she was dying and that when the doors opened, she experienced a rebirth. I love to hear guests’ reactions.”

The future of hospitality seems precarious to Munk, who believes that huge changes need to be made for the industry to survive. “We need to redesign the way we do fine dining,” he says. “I think things will disappear from the landscape. And generations change and want different things. This industry currently is not sustainable.” He describes his approach as “Holistic Cuisine,” which involves both using and looking for ingredients that are currently thrown away and ensuring that the people who work for him are treated well.

“Lifeline”: Resembling a droplet of blood, this dish is served on a plate with a QR code leading to a sign-up form for blood donation in Denmark. A pig blood ice cream shell encases wild blueberry jam and ganache, also made from pig blood.

Lifeline:这道菜形似一滴血,放在一个印有 「丹 麦献血登记」的二维码的碟上。猪血冰淇淋外壳包 裹着野生蓝莓果酱和同样由猪血制成的甘纳许。

先有可视化的画面。他说:「当我想到颜色和形 状,我会知道成果必须要如何呈现。有时这可 能困扰到别人,带来额外工作量。有时想象已 在我脑中成型,我的团队却让效果变得更完美。」

虽然宾客在 Alchemist 的感官过程由连 串设定引导,但正如同所有艺术作品一样, Rasmus 也喜欢每个人有自身独特的方式来体 验,他说:「我们曾经请来了一位小提琴家,在 餐厅房间里演奏一首悲伤的歌曲,我们本来预 期这会是个引人深省的时刻,但有人说她听着 听着竟有奄奄一息的感觉。因此当房门打开时, 她感觉自己仿佛重获新生。我很喜欢听到客人 不一样的诠释。」

Rasmus 认为,餐饮业的未来充满变数 , 必须历经转型才得以生存。他说:「我们需要重 新设计高级美食界运作的方式。我认为某些 眼 前的东西将会消失,随着世代变迁,人们开始

TASTING DESTINATION
Munk was raised in a small rural town outside of Randers in Jutland.
SØREN
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GAMMELMARK (3)

↑ “Taste Wall” at Alchemist serves as a backdrop to the test kitchen. 餐厅的厨房中有 一面「味觉墙」。

↙ “Thinking Outside The Box”: A lamb’s brain coated in cherry sauce is presented floating in walnut oil inside a transparent box.

Thinking Outside The Box: 涂有樱桃酱的羊脑漂浮在透 明盒子内的核桃油中。

100 | TK | GIFTS FROM THE EARTH

“We can’t continue with restaurants where 50 percent of staff work for free,” he says, referring to restaurants that rely on large numbers of full-time, unpaid stagiaires as part of their workforce. Munk takes responsibility for his staff by investing in health insurance, pensions, and competitive salaries.

“We are one of the most expensive restaurants in Europe,” he says in a matter-of-fact way. “Because, aside from a handful of work-experience people who just come for a couple of weeks, we make sure that everyone gets paid. After COVID, people are no longer as keen on putting hundreds of hours a week into a restaurant – they’re ambitious but don’t want to work sixty-hour weeks. Our Nordic perspective is to accept and respect this choice. To have a highly rated restaurant, you rely on a lot of people, and that cost will be passed on to the customers.”

Munk recognizes the responsibility that comes with international recognition and chooses to exercise it well. “You have a big platform that you can use to change things. And I want to inspire the younger generation – in this industry, you can have a big impact and inspire them to use their voices actively, perhaps to want to cook for vulnerable people. Ultimately, I want the chefs of the future to understand that you can use food to communicate, to transmit a message, just like a musician uses music or an artist uses paint.”

追求不一样的东西。这个行业既有的运作模式是不永 续的。」他将自己的方式称为「全面美食」(Holistic Cuisine),具体行动包括寻找并有效利用剩食,并确保 员工受到良好对待。

他说:「我们不能和超过半数员工不支薪的餐厅继 续合作。」他指的是那些雇用大量全职但无薪实习生的 餐厅。相对地,Rasmus 透过提供健康保险、养老金和 有竞争力的薪酬,以示他对于员工的重视。

他以一种实事求是的方式说:「我们是全欧洲最昂 贵的餐厅之一,因为除了少数只来几周的实习生之外, 我们确保每个人都有应得的报酬。疫情后,人们不再 热衷于每周投入数百小时在餐厅工作。他们虽然有抱 负,但不想每周工作长达六十小时。我们北欧人的思 维是接受并尊重这样的选择。因此,要经营一间高评 价的餐厅,你需要很多人的帮忙,顾客也会分担当中 的高成本。」

Rasmus 体认到伴随国际认可而来的责任,并选 择善加利用。他说:「我现在拥有一个极具影响力的大 平台。我想借此鼓励年轻世代投入餐饮业,因为你也 可以产生很大的影响。此外,我也想鼓励他们积极行动, 像是透过烹饪帮助弱势族群。长远来看,我希望未来 的厨师能明白,食物也可以作为传递信息和交流的媒 介,就像音乐之于音乐家或颜料之于艺术家一样。」

TASTING DESTINATION
Chef Gregor Power plating the “1984” impression at Alchemist 主厨Gregor Power为“1984”进行摆盘
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PHOTO CLAES BECH POULSEN (THE TASTE WALL), SØREN GAMMELMARK (2)
naturally inspired 源于自然

The Macallan debuts The Harmony Collection Amber Meadow at a gala media event in Macau.

THE MACALLAN HOSTED the invitation-only media launch of The Harmony Collection Amber Meadow, the third in the renowned distiller’s limited-edition Harmony Collection of unique Scotch whiskies, at Galaxy Macau’s Andaz Kitchen Studio.

Each annual release in the series, inspired by The Macallan’s deep-rooted connection to nature for nearly two centuries, unveils packaging designed to fuse innovative techniques with end-of-their-life natural materials and see them reborn with a renewed purpose.

传奇苏格兰单一麦芽威士忌品牌 The Macallan 于 3 月 13 日在澳门安达仕酒店的安达仕厨荟举办 The Harmony Collection Amber Meadow「黄金麦穗」

年度限量系列发布会。这是限量系列 The Harmony Collection 的第三版。

The Harmony Collection Amber Meadow was created in collaboration with Stella and Mary McCartney to celebrate the fertile lands of Scotland. The McCartney sisters’ love of the land stems from memories of summer days in amber fields at the family farm in the Scottish countryside.

To mark this deep connection, discarded meadow cuttings have been given new life in Amber Meadow whisky’s presentation box and bottle labels. The box also features photography of The Macallan Estate by Mary McCartney.

Taking inspiration from Scottish grasslands, The Macallan Whisky Mastery Team created Amber Meadow using a combination of sherry-seasoned oak and bourbon casks. “It’s a single malt redolent of warm meadows and mature barley fields, with a rich, citrusscented finish,” says Whisky Maker Steven Bremner.

“The 100 percent natural summer evening color derived from our exceptional sherry-seasoned oak and bourbon casks reflects the richness of the flavor that awaits. On the nose, fresh citrus fruits and honeysuckle are complemented by hints of vanilla, coconut, and ripe barley fields. On tasting, notes of oak, lemon, and melon are prominent, accompanied by flavors of classic scone and almond with green tea, before giving way to a rich and sweet long finish.”

Augmenting the release of Amber Meadow is the McCartney sisters’ “ TOGETHER : A Collection for The Macallan.” Inspired by nature and realized by master artisans and craftspeople, the collection features eleven lifestyle pieces for the home.

啓发自 The Macallan 近两个世纪以 来与大自然根深柢固的连结,该系列每 年会推出一款新品,其包装设计更将创 新技术与废弃的天然材料相结合,让一 些原本会被浪费的素材重新焕发生机。

「黄金麦穗」由 The Macallan 与 Stella 和 Mary McCartney 姐妹合作推出, 颁扬苏格兰这片沃土。McCartney 姐妹对苏格兰的 热爱,来自于她们过往在苏格兰乡间家族农场的黄 金麦田中欢度的夏日时光。为了纪念如此深厚的渊 源,采收后余下的麦秆也在这酒款的包装盒与酒瓶 标签上重获新生。包装盒上还有 Mary McCartney 拍摄的 The Macallan 庄园照片。 The Macallan 威士忌大师团队从苏格兰天 然草原汲取灵感,使用雪莉橡木桶和波本桶酿制 出「黄金麦穗」。The Macallan 威士忌大师 Steven Bremner 表示:「这款单一麦芽威士忌散发着草原和 成熟麦田的气息,余韵浓郁,带有柑橘风味。」

「100% 天然的夏日暮色色泽,源自我们独一无 二的雪莉橡木桶和波本橡木桶,体现出层次丰富的 风味。在嗅觉上,新鲜的柑橘类水果和金银花,与 香草、椰子和成熟麦田的气息相得益彰。口感方面, 橡木、柠檬和蜜瓜的香气十分突出,同时还伴有经 典松饼和杏仁与绿茶的味道,尾韵则格外甘醇绵长。」 McCartney 姐妹与 The Macallan 的联名系列 TOGETHER 也为「黄金麦穗」的发布增色不少。该 系列精品从大自然汲取设计灵感,由技艺精湛的 匠人精心制作而成,其中包括十一件精致生活方 式单品。

PRESENTED BY THE MACALLAN
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA
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“It’s a single malt redolent of warm meadows and mature barley fields.

这款单一麦芽 威士忌散发着 草原和成熟麦 田的气息。”

高地风味

hokkaido and the highlands

Akkeshi Distillery marries the unique flavors of Japan with classic Scottish whisky-making techniques.

THE SHIMA ENEGA or “snow fairy” is a variety of long-tailed bushtit, a native species in Hokkaido that is glimpsed during winter months. Its pure white plumage and cartoon-like appearance have captured the imagination of artists and designers across Japan, and images of the endearing creature appear on everything from home ware to mochi and rice cakes.

Akkeshi Distillery, named after the small Hokkaido town where it was founded in 2016, has also drawn inspiration from 冬季的日本北海道偶尔可见俗称「雪之精灵」的长 尾山雀,是当地特有的鸟类。长尾山雀 因其一身纯白毛羽和卡通人物般的外型, 常常成为日本艺术家和设计师的创作对 象,从家用品到麻糬、年糕都可见这迷 人小生物的身影。

厚岸蒸馏所于 2016 年成立,并以 酒厂所在的北海道小镇「厚岸町」命名。

这间北海道酒厂也以「雪之精灵」为灵感,让这可

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the shima enega, featuring the shy bird on its Single Malt Blender’s Choice 2023 Bourbon Barrel #1891, part of a new collection released in Hong Kong.

Aged in a bourbon barrel selected by Master Blender Katsuyuki Tatsuzaki, the whisky reveals notes of citrus and sweetness alongside the characteristic peaty flavors that have earned Akkeshi Distillery the moniker “Little Lagavulin.”

It was Masataka Taketsuru, “the father of Japanese whisky,” who, as a chemist, traveled to Scotland in 1918 to study distillation and paved the way for Akkeshi Distillery to combine traditional Forsyths pot stills and peated barley with the unique flavors of Hokkaido to produce its distinctive single and blended malts.

The distillery lies in the heart of preserved marshes in Bekanbeushi Wetland. Rolling sea fog blankets the town, and during maturation, the whiskies benefit from the ion-rich salty sea air which helps to give them their Islay-like taste and aroma profiles.

Also included in the new Hong Kong collection are four labels representing the distinct seasons experienced in Hokkaido: Keichitsu (Life Awakens) for spring, Shoman (Nature Thrives) for summer, Hakuro (Glistening White Dew) for autumn, and Taisetsu (The Great Snowfall) for winter.

Every bottle has been aged in either new mizunara oak casks or a combination of sherry, wine, bourbon, and mizunara casks to express the seasons’ key flavors, from notes of zesty citrus and tropical fruit to charcoal and black tea.

爱的小鸟出现在其中一支近期于香港推出的威士忌 厚岸「单一桶麦芽调和威士忌 2023 年波本桶 # 1891」的瓶身上。

这款威士忌由调酒大师立崎胜幸先生严选的波 本桶酿造而成,展现出柑橘和甜味香气,以及极具 特色、令厚岸蒸馏所获得了「小乐加维林」称号的 泥煤风味。

日本威士忌之父 竹鹤政孝,以化学家的 身份于 1918 年前往苏格兰研究蒸馏技术,为厚岸 蒸馏所开辟了威士忌酿造之路,利用传统福赛斯 (Forsyths)蒸馏器和泥煤熏烤过的大麦等元素,与 北海道独特的威士忌风味结合,打造厚岸蒸馏所独 有的单一麦芽威士忌及调和式威士忌。

厚岸蒸馏所位于别寒辺牛湿原中心,该处经常 受海雾笼罩,且威士忌熟成期间有富含离子的海风 吹拂,可赋予厚岸威士忌类似艾雷岛威士忌的口味 和香气。

除了以上的酒款,本次在香港推出的系列包括 四支充份诠释北海道四季的威士忌:象征春季万物 初醒的「启蛰」,象征夏季生意盎然的「小满」,象 征秋高气爽的「白露 」,象征冬雪纷飞的「大雪」。

每一款威士忌或在全新水楢桶中陈酿,或是选 用雪莉桶、葡萄酒桶、波本桶和水楢桶的组合混桶 陈酿,以表现不同季节的特色风味,带来包括柑橘 和热带水果 ,或木炭和红茶等丰富多元的香气。

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著迷奇鉴

indulging the curator

↖ Niçoise Salad 尼斯沙拉

→ Qura Vintage Negroni

REGENT HONG KONG, with its rich forty-year history, was among the city’s first true luxury hotels. Today, having reclaimed its original harborside location, it offers multiple dining choices, including glamorous Qura Bar with its intimate lounge, cozy dining room, and unique cigar haven.

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY

The concept behind Qura Bar revolves around a prototypical connoisseur, a sophisticated and well-traveled individual known as The Curator, one who has a taste for the exotic, enjoys the rarer and finer things in life, and appreciates the pleasures of a select array of spirits, cocktails, and gastronomical delights.

“As we portray and reflect The Curator, how do we marry

香港丽晶酒店拥有四十年的悠久历史, 是这座城市早期成立的顶级奢华酒店 之一。时至今日,丽晶酒店重回最初 的海滨位置,为旅客提供多元的珍馔 盛宴,其中包括风格华丽、附设专属 酒廊沙发区、用餐区和顶级雪茄区的 Qura Bar。 Qura Bar 以典型的收藏家为奇想概念,有如 「策展人(The Curator)」:热爱华美且精致的生活、 对异国文化情有独钟、游历经验丰富,精明且乐于 鉴赏各式精选烈酒、鸡尾酒和美食佳肴。

BY
PRESENTED
REGENT HONG KONG Qura Bar offers the ultimate in rare and fine spirits along with approachably upscale dining.
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memories, experiences, and atmosphere in one location?” asks Director of Operations Xavier Schaeffer. “Inspired by the refined taste of this imaginary global epicurean, Qura Bar conveys adventure and curiosity, and we invite our guests to tap into their explorative senses and let multisensory experiences unfold.”

Designed by BAR Studio, Qura Bar feels luxuriously residential, with lavish vintage accents and stylish Art Deco motifs. Restored antique furniture alongside mid-century modern pieces creates a cool, eclectic balance.

“The value being offered is time spent here,” says Schaeffer. “With meticulous curation, selections on our menus reflect decades

营运总监 Xavier Schaeffer 道来:「我们创造 了『策展家』的形象后,下一步该如何在这个空间 里呈现这些回忆、经历和氛围? Qura Bar 从策展 家的角色出发,希望邀请每位贵宾发挥好奇与冒险 精神,和我们一起踏上多感官体验的探索之旅。」

Qura Bar 由 BAR Studio 团队操刀设计,使用 豪华的复古元素及时尚的装饰艺术图案,整体风格 奢华、却保留居家般的舒适感。修复过的古董家具 与二十世纪现代家具相互配衬,创造出有个性且相 容并蓄的风格。

Xavier 说:「整个体验最重要的价值,在于当

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of history, with bygone eras creatively reimagined. While on the pulse of what’s new, Qura revisits familiar experiences through spirits and dishes with delectably nostalgic flavors.”

Qura’s exclusive, one-of-a-kind collection of wines and spirits was designed by Bar Manager and Mixologist Gennaro Pucci. With the support of partners that include Proof & Company and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, the dedicated efforts and administrative hassles were worth the time they took to obtain specific bottles over periods as long as six months to a year. “With such a grand collection to work with,” says Pucci, “our handcrafted cocktails are

“Inspired by the refined taste of this imaginary global epicurean, Qura Bar conveys adventure and curiosity.

Qura Bar从策 展家的角色出 发,希望邀请每 位贵宾发挥好奇 与冒险精神。”

Xavier Schaeffer

下在酒吧度过的时光。我们透过菜单细腻地描述数 十年的历史记忆,并运用想象力重新创造黄金时光。

Qura Bar 除了提供新鲜的选择,也透过经典美酒佳 肴创造愉悦的怀旧体验,唤起熟悉的过去。」

Qura Bar 一系列独家葡萄酒和烈酒,皆由酒吧 经理和调酒师 Gennaro Pucci 精选而来。能够造就 出这一系列美酒收藏,归功于 Proof & Company 和 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 等合作伙伴的支持。

Gennaro 前后花费长达六个月至一年,但获取特定 瓶装酒所需的心力和繁复程序都是值得的。他说:「有

← Qura Martini ↗ Rajiv Chowdhoory, Gennaro Pucci, and Xavier Schaeffer
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product-focused. They’re twists on classics that respect original flavors. And we prioritize responsible sourcing to access collectors’ bottles from legendary distilleries and artisanal partners. There are countless tales waiting to be passed on to our current generation.”

While young adventurers are swept off their feet by Qura’s amazing range of cocktails and spirits, well-seasoned devotees savor every chapter in the bar’s rich library of mixology. One of Qura’s most precious bottles is a 1914 Pierre Ferrand Cognac revealing a taste of France on the cusp of World War I. This museumgrade treasure attests to the long legacy that Qura Bar strives to carry on. Newer collaborations with local brands like Hong Kong’s NIP Gin have led to the birth of the bar’s own Collectors Gin #001 and its mythical creation story of The Curator sourcing botanicals for it across multiple continents.

Qura’s intimate dining room with its handful of tables offers a straightforward and articulate à la carte menu. Under Chef Rajiv Chowdhoory’s direction, the culinary team opens a gateway to exotic flavors matched with sophisticated French technique. “I would describe our dining as accessible gastronomy,” says Chowdhoory, whose résumé includes experience under Alain Ducasse and time at such luxurious hotels as Dubai’s Burj Al Arab.

Qura’s exceptionally French execution is complemented by impeccable sourcing of products, from Caspian Sea caviar to exquisitely marbled Australia Angus Tenderloin. One of the most popular specialties of the house is baby lamb shoulder “Averyon,” imported from France and slow-cooked for thirty-six hours. It’s given a Moroccan spin with pine nuts, raisins, and argan oil and nestled on a fluffy bed of couscous. “We want our guests to feel at home,” says the chef, “with simple dishes like this that incorporate beautifully seasonal ingredients.”

了如此宏伟的收藏为基础,我们的现调鸡尾酒重视 调酒元素的选用。这些酒品都是经典的变化版,对 原始风味致以最高敬意。我们首重有信誉的供应商, 以获取传奇酒厂和精酿家伙伴的收藏瓶。无数的传 奇蕴藏,正等着我们向这个时代打开。」

Qura Bar 品种类丰富的鸡尾酒和烈酒,会惊艳 到年轻的冒险族,也可让老道的爱好者慢慢细尝。

Qura Bar 最宝贵的其中一瓶酒,是 1914 年法国皮 埃尔费朗干邑白兰地,犹如展现出一战时期的法国 味道。这份博物馆级的宝藏,证明了 Qura Bar 一直 致力继承悠久的传统。而 Qura Bar 与香港本地品牌 「N.I.P. 无名氏」琴酒等新合作,也促成了酒吧独有 的「收藏家琴酒 #001(Collectors Gin #001)」的诞 生,背后是传奇般的馆长横跨大陆采集植物的故事 内涵。

Qura Bar 专属用餐室充满私密感,仅设少 数餐桌,提供简明细选的单点菜单。主厨 Rajiv Chowdhoory 拥有丰富的厨艺经验,曾为法国名厨 Alain Ducasse 效力工作,并于杜拜帆船酒店 Burj Al Arab 等奢华酒店服务。厨师团队以精湛的法式料理 工艺,为来宾开启通往异国的奇异体验大门。他说: 「我会形容这是『亲切』的美食体验。」

除了杰出的料理手法,Qura Bar 在食材选用上 更是无可挑剔,包括品质优良的里海鱼子酱及澳洲 安格斯牛柳。其中,法国进口的阿韦龙小羊肩肉, 是酒吧最受欢迎的食材之一。小羊肩肉经三十六小 时慢煮,加入松子、葡萄干和摩洛哥坚果油,并搭 配口感松软的库斯库斯,充满摩洛哥风情。Rajiv 说: 「我们以简单的料理方式烹调美妙的时令食材,希望 能创造宾至如归的氛围。」

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one-of-a-kind luxury 匠心非凡

← Timo Gruenert

Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc 伊甸角罗克酒店

Oetker Collection CEO Timo Gruenert talks with TK about the five-star hotel group’s dedication to creating landmark properties around the world. § TK很荣幸专访 Oetker Collection酒店系列执行长Timo Gruenert, 了解这个遍布全球的五星级酒店集团的事业成就与未来展望。

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RUDOLF AUGUST OETKER and his wife Maja first caught sight of a stunning cliffside hotel while sailing alongside the Cap d’Antibes on the French Riviera during the summer of 1964.

Although his family already owned Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, Oetker didn’t consider himself a hotelier. Yet the couple were so enthralled by the property that, when they learned five years later that it was for sale, they happily expanded their hotel business. Over the following thirty years, they meticulously selected two more magnificent, historic properties for acquisition.

Oetker Collection was officially established in 2008 to operate the existing hotels and to thoughtfully expand its portfolio, which today includes twelve “masterpiece” hotels around the world.

1964 年的夏天,Rudolf August Oetker 和他的妻子 Maja 在法国里维埃拉海岸的 Cap d’Antibes 半岛沿岸航行时 初见一间悬崖饭店,当时即感到相当惊艳。虽然家族已 拥有德国 Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa,但 Rudolf 却不以 一位酒店管理者自居。夫妻俩深深为这间悬崖酒店着迷, 以至于五年后当他们得知这地点要出售时,立即欣喜地 进行收购。在接下来的三十年内,另外两处宏伟非常、 历史悠久的物业,也在他们的精心挑选下成为了品牌系 列。

Oetker Collection 成立于 2008 年,主要业务为酒 店营运、精心发现极具潜力的酒店、扩展事业版图。目 前该集团在世界各地已拥有十二间堪称「杰作」的顶级 酒店。

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What was Mr. Oetker’s original vision and how has that evolved over the years?

When Mr. Oetker bought Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, this term “masterpiece” which we use did not exist in connection to the hotels. But he was overwhelmed by the beauty of the place, and to him it was a masterpiece.

Fast-forward to 2008 when we approached the family and asked them to allow us to create and manage a collection of hotels. They said, you must promise that you’ll never compromise on the quality – you have to speak to our values and our philosophy.

Rudolf August Oetker 先生最初的愿景是什么, 这些年来又如何演变?

在他购入法国 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc 酒店时, 「杰作」的概念其实在酒店业并不常见。当时,他 深受美丽的环境所撼动;对他来说,这就是一件杰 作。 时间快转到 2008 年,当我们与家族接洽,希 望他们允许由我们来创建并管理酒店系列时,他们 要求我们承诺在服务品质上永不妥协,并且必须符 合品牌的价值观和理念。

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Jumby Bay Island

What are you looking for in each new addition to the collection?

Take a masterpiece like a painting or a sculpture or even an haute couture dress from Dior. What unites them? An incredible amount of passion, a lot of time, and an almost obsessive attention to detail. Once they are finished, masterpieces are really unique.

Our aim is to take this concept and translate it to the world of hospitality to create hotel properties that are masterpieces. We look at the location and the architecture. Then the interior design must be bespoke and of the highest quality materials.

You can imagine the way our guests surround themselves in their homes with furniture, fabrics, and decor. We have the ambition to make sure that everything they see and touch in our hotels is of the same quality.

在每间新加入系列的酒店「杰作」中,您们渴望 寻找什么?

犹如举世的名画、雕塑,或以 Dior 的高订时服 装来类比,要解释为什么有些作品可以被称作「杰 作」,可说它们的共同之处皆为背后澎湃的热情、长 期灌注的时间,以及对细节近乎痴迷的关注,直到 完工一刻,「杰作」本身已是举世无双 。

我们的目标是将「杰作」的概念转化到酒店管 理的世界中,创建出杰作般的酒店建筑物。我们先 是关注酒店的所在地和建筑结构。至于室内设计必 须量身而订,选材也是最高品质的。你可以想像客 人日常在家中,被熟悉的家具、布饰和精品环绕着。 我们的决心是确保他们在我们的酒店中可视可及的, 都具有相同的品质和感受。

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How do you balance conserving a property’s history with modernizing it to the standards of Oetker Collection?

You have to approach it very respectfully. For example, Hotel La Palma is located right in the middle of central Capri. Two hundred years ago, it was the first hotel ever built there. It was always the centerpiece of Capri, and when we opened the new La Palma, it needed to still feel like the centerpiece. We had to make sure that every single detail spoke Capri.

For The Vineta in Palm Beach, which will be our next opening, the original facade will still be there, but everything behind it will be new. We respect its heritage by being very sensitive in what we are doing. We may change everything inside, but it needs to be in real harmony with the destination.

What are the values of Oetker Collection?

I put four things in the forefront. The first is “masterpiece,” which describes what the guests can see and touch. Then there are softer values related to what the guests feel at the hotels – family spirit, elegance, and genuine kindness. These create a wonderful common denominator for hotels that can be so different.

We also have the ambition to create a very strong personality for every hotel. Guests staying at The Lanesborough should absolutely feel like they are in London from the moment they open their eyes in the morning to the moment they close them at night. It is nowhere else. And the same for Le Bristol in Paris.

For this, we need strong leaders as our general managers, those who are very good hoteliers and also good entrepreneurs. This is a very rare combination. You cannot create unique places with strong personalities from a corporate office.

Who are your target clientele?

You can’t easily describe them by any demographics. What unites them is their expectations. They treasure this level of refinement, sophistication, and personalization. I know these words are commonly used in luxury hospitality, but I have to say, you don’t actually find them often.

When you arrive at Eden Rock - St. Barths, the likelihood is very high that the general manager

您们如何在构建现代化的同时保留建筑物的历史特色,以符合 Oetker Collection 的标准?

「必须尊重建筑物本身的特性」。例如,意大利 La Palma 酒店位于卡普里岛 中心。两百年前,这里是当地第一间酒店。由于这里一直以来都是当地的核心 地带,因此当我们希望 La Palma 酒店以崭新姿态登场时,我们全力确保这里仍 呈现「中心」的地位,且每一丝细节,也如是展现卡普里岛的当地特色。

至于接下来将在美国棕榈滩营运的 The Vineta 酒店,我们会如实保留建筑 物的正面,内部则重新改造。我们尊重历史建筑物和传统,对于每个下的决定 更是精敏。即使建筑物内的一切全新的展示,但整体仍必须一致和谐。

Oetker Collection 的核心价值是什么?

我们的核心价值可分为四大面向。首先是「杰作」,泛指客人肉眼可见、伸 手可触摸的所有设施。其余则是希望客人能感受到的精神价值 家的感动、 品味优雅,以及真诚善良。在每一间各具特色的酒店,这美丽的四大价值将永 恒地连贯核心。

此外,我们有志于为每一间酒店创造强烈的「个性」。如入住 The Lanesborough 酒店的贵宾,我们希望他们从早上起床睁眼,直到晚上闭上眼睛 的那一刻,也深感正身处伦敦。对于巴黎的 Le Bristol 酒店来说,也是同样道理。

为此,我们必须让出众的领导者担任酒店经理层。他们是出色的酒店业者, 也同样是卓越的企业家。要同时达到这两大要求,可说是相当少见。只拥有过 一般执行经历,很难开创出具有鲜明个性的独特场所。

您们主要锁定什么样的目标客群?

客群是无法轻易以人口属性来概括。他们的共通点,就是对酒店服务有共 同的期望。他们珍爱「精致」、「体现内涵 」、「具个人化的服务」。我知道高级 酒店业者时常使用这些词汇,但我必须说,实际上只有少数能传递这些体验。

The Lanesborough
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will pick you up at the airport – what a difference it makes. Le Bristol Paris is our largest hotel with almost two hundred rooms, but when you walk through the revolving door, senior members of the management team are standing there in the lobby to greet you.

Our guests like the emotional connection with our hotels and our teams. We have about 40 percent repeat clients. They come back because they feel a part of the family.

What lies ahead?

Our aim is to really create masterpieces. We’re very lucky to be able to focus on this and not to start a strategy of growing for the sake of growing. This is thanks to the Oetker family, who are still in charge today. And they continue to send the message “don’t ever compromise.”

We opened one hotel last year, we’ll open one this year, and I’d be very happy to open one in 2025, which we still need to find. It’s a very motivating and rewarding target – to find that needle in the haystack.

像是来到加勒比海 Eden Rock – St, Barths,您很有 机会碰到酒店总经理来亲自接机,这尊视就与其他酒店 明显不同。像是巴黎 Le Bristol 酒店 —— 我们规模最大的 酒店,这里拥有近两百间客房,当每一客人从旋转门踏 进来那刻,站在大堂迎接的正是资深的管理团队成员 。

客人常与我们的酒店团队建立起深刻的情感连结, 高达四成也是重复入住。我想他们之所以对这里产生情 感,是因为他们深刻地感觉到自己也是这个大家庭的一 份子。

您们未来有什么规划?

我们的目标是可以真正创造杰作。这不是为了扩大 商业规模而拟定的策略,而是我们很幸运能拥有的坚持。 如今这一番成就,必须归功于至今仍负责集团营运的 Oetker 家族。相信他们将继续传递「永不妥协」的理念。

去年和今年,集团也陆续有新酒店落成,2025 也准 备再推出新的酒店品牌。我们将继续努力寻觅潜藏的瑰 丽之珠,年复一年地为贵宾创造惊艳和美好体验,这也 是我们继续追求卓越的目标。

Le Bristol Paris
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品酩时刻

experiencing wine

Rosewood Hong Kong’s extraordinary series of wine dinners continue to bring new insights.

VINEYARD STORIES AND VERTICAL SERIES, launched slightly more than a year ago, are the two main pillars of Rosewood Hong Kong’s critically lauded wine program. Vineyard Stories are engaging quarterly wine pairing experiences that guide guests in discovering prized wines alongside complementary menus designed by Rosewood’s acclaimed chefs. Vertical Series are voyages through the decades, focusing every quarter on a different region and a single cuvee to explore the influence of time on each wine.

Conceived by Area Director of Wines, APAC , Julien Peros, the hotel’s twin lineups of signature wine dinners aim to highlight the most significant qualities of well-crafted wines and to explore the complex concept of terroirs. At the epic Petrus & White Truffle Dinner, held at Asaya Kitchen in December 2023, Peros presented bottles of the prized Pomerol from five noteworthy vintages, the oldest from 1977.

In January 2024, Rosewood launched the Opus One Ambassador program at Henry, the hotel’s acclaimed American grill and smokehouse.

从去年起,香港瑰丽酒店亚太区餐酒总监 Julien Peros 精心策划了一系列引人入胜的葡萄酒晚宴, 让一众美酒爱好者认识精酿葡萄酒的重要特质, 并探索酿酒风土的奥义。其中「庄园故事」品酒 体验每季更新主题,深入探索各款佳酿,并品尝 由酒店名厨特别设计的佳肴。而「垂 直品鉴系列」让宾客可以重温同一款 佳酿过去数十载之演变,以及时间对 每瓶美酒的影响。

去年十二月于 Asaya Kitchen 举办的 Petrus & White Truffle 晚宴中,Julien 呈献了五款特殊年 份的波美侯葡萄酒,其中最久远的是 1977 年份的 酒款。

今年一月,瑰丽酒店在广受赞誉的美式扒房 和烟熏房 Henry 推出「Opus One 大使计划」。每 场年度葡萄酒晚宴皆由酒庄代表精心策划和呈献, 来宾可品尝直接由酒庄发布的年份葡萄酒,以及

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Rosewood Hong Kong’s wine dinners delight and enlighten guests with a meticulous selection of fine wines from around the world.

香港瑰丽酒店的葡萄酒晚宴以来自世界各地的精选佳酿,引领宾客踏上充满启发的葡萄酒之旅。

Each once-per-year wine dinner, curated and presented by winery representatives, will offer back vintages released directly from the winery, as well as one new matured vintage from the 1990s, to be released exclusively at Rosewood Hong Kong.

In March, the hotel’s fifth anniversary will be celebrated at a number of Rosewood Hong Kong’s fine-dining venues in a gala series of three extraordinary wine dinners as well as a culinary master class. The opening dinner at The Legacy House on March 20 will highlight unique bottles from Domaine Dujac in Burgundy, specially released for the occasion.

On March 21, The Glasshouse by Asaya Kitchen will offer a vertical collection of six vintages of legendary Louis Roederer Cristal Champagne, and on March 22 at Henry, Laurent Delassus of Napa’s Opus One will showcase a vertical selection of seven vintages. On March 23 at Glasshouse by Asaya Kitchen, Jean de Castelnau, cellar master of Louis Roederer, will conduct a master class and lead a tasting of five Champagnes.

Also coming soon is a series of short thematic wine lists, including a spotlight on female winemakers, tailored specifically for each of the Rosewood Hong Kong venues. Designed for approachability, these seasonal lists will also offer dynamic talking points and meaningful memories for wine lovers of all levels.

在香港瑰丽酒店独家供应的一款 1990 年的陈酿葡 萄酒。 三月是香港瑰丽酒店的五周年庆典,旗下多 间高级食府将举办一系列盛大的庆祝活动,包括 三场葡萄酒晚宴和烹饪大师班。首场晚宴会在三 月二十日在彤福轩举行,亮点是勃艮第杜雅克酒 庄专门为酒店周年庆典推出的独特酒款。

紧接着的三月二十一日,The Glasshouse by Asaya Kitchen 推出「垂直品鉴系列」的六款传奇 路易王妃水晶香槟;在三月二十二日,来自纳帕 谷精品酒庄 Opus One 的 Laurent Delassus 将在 Henry 展示酒庄垂直系列的七款葡萄酒。

在三月二十三日于 Glasshouse by Asaya Kitchen 举办的大师班,则由路易王妃酒庄的酒窖 总监 Jean de Castelnau 主理,带领大家品尝五款 品质非凡的香槟。 香港瑰丽酒店亦将推出一系列主题酒单,其 中包括由知名女酿酒师为瑰丽酒店旗下餐厅度身 设计的酒单。这些季节限定的酒单既特别又平易 近人,不论是在新手或是资深葡萄酒爱好者的口 中,都能挑起源源不绝的话题,留下美好的品酒 回忆。

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naturally simple 简约食尚

After training at Michelin-star restaurants around the world, Chef Jun Wong has returned to her home country of Malaysia. She talks to TK’s Mark Hammons about her contemporary cuisine at Yellow Fin Horse, where she uses elemental cooking techniques to celebrate the flavors of local seasonal ingredients. § 在 世界各地的米其林星级餐厅受训后,主厨 Jun Wong 回到家乡马来西亚。她向 TK 的 Mark Hammons 介绍自己在 Yellow Fin Horse 餐厅烹饪的现代化菜肴。在这里,她使用基础烹饪技术来展现当地时令 食材的风味。

You often emphasize that Yellow Fin Horse is not a fine-dining restaurant. Can you explain what you mean by that?

Fine dining in the strictest sense should be refined in every aspect of the experience – almost akin to personal butler service. Yellow Fin Horse looks at eating and drinking as a social occasion. We want to break traditional formats of dining and encourage diners to eat and drink as they choose to.

What is elemental cooking?

It’s cooking in its most basic form – using elements like open fire, charcoal, smoking, and techniques of curing, aging, fermentation, and making everything from scratch. One of our simplest standout dishes is whole grilled baby bass with kelp gravy. We take a humble local ingredient and dry-age it for three to five days to intensify the umami flavors of the fish and wick it of excess moisture for a firmer texture. The result doesn’t disintegrate easily over charcoal, so the skin is able to beautifully crisp up and blister while the flesh cooks just enough to retain its juiciness.

We want to highlight the ingredient itself plus the execution, so we pair it with a light gravy made from kelp to enhance the sea taste without overpowering the natural flavors and the charcoal notes that come through.

How do you practice sustainability in the kitchen?

We aspire to reduce waste and adopt a closed-circle philosophy. With our summer salad dish, we practice a zero-waste approach. We use corn kernels from the amazing local purple corn and save the husks, silk, and stalks for Alif, our mixologist, to ferment into a purple corn tepache for one of his zero-proof cocktails. And our buttermilk crudo features a dressing that uses the by-product obtained from churning our signature smoked butter.

What’s your greatest challenge at Yellow Fin Horse?

Not having a definitive cuisine, at least in the traditional sense. I feel that diners here might not be ready for that yet – most people still need to identify a place with some sort of cultural reference, such as Malaysian, French, or Japanese. In time, people will come to accept that cooking without cultural borders will soon be the norm.

您经常强调 Yellow Fin Horse 提供的并不是精致 餐饮,能解释一下这个说法吗?

严格来说,精致餐饮应该在体验的各方面都 精益求精,几乎类似于私人管家服务了。而 Yellow Fin Horse 将饮食视为一种社交体验。我们希望打破 传统的用餐形式,鼓励宾客按照自己的选择与偏好 来享用美食。

何谓基础烹饪? 这就是最基本的烹饪形式,像是使用明火、木 炭、烟熏等元素,以及腌制、陈酿、发酵等手法, 一切都从零开始。我们最简单的一道拿手菜是海带 肉汁烤小鲈鱼。我们运用一种普通常见的本地食材, 将其干腌三至五天,来增强鱼肉的鲜美风味,并去 除多余水分,让肉质更加坚实弹牙。这样一来,鱼 皮在炭火上就不会轻易分解,能够变得更加酥脆爽 口,鱼肉在烹制过程中也能保有鲜嫩多汁的口感。

我们希望突显食材本身的特色及料理方法,所 以搭配海带熬煮而成的清淡肉汁,不仅提升海洋鲜 味,也不会掩盖食材天然的风味及木炭香气。

您是如何在厨房里实践可持续精神呢?

我们希望减少浪费,并采用封闭式循环的手法。 我们使用零浪费的手法来制作夏季沙拉。我们选用 当地特产紫玉米的玉米粒,并将玉米皮、玉米丝和 叶柄等部分保留下来,让调酒师 Alif 发酵成紫玉米 tepache 无酒精调酒饮品。我们的酪乳生鱼料理的 调味料,使用的是捣碎招牌烟熏奶油时产生的副产 品。

您在 Yellow Fin Horse 餐厅面临的最大挑战是什 么?

从传统概念来看,我们并不遵循任何明确的菜 式规范。我觉得这边的宾客可能还没有准备好接受 这一点,大多数人仍然需要透过某种文化参照来为 餐厅定位,比如说马来西亚菜、法国菜或者日本料 理。随着时间推移,我想大家会逐渐接受无国界的 烹饪方式,这很快就会变成常态了。

CHEF CONVERSATION
MARK HAMMONS 120 | TK | gifts from the earth
Jun Wong

美食革命

changing food

The Kita Food Festival, an annual gastronomy event originally launched in 2021 in Malaysia, is a celebration of Southeast Asian cuisines and an educational platform for the exploration of food sustainability in the hospitality industry. It was cofounded by Darren Teoh, head chef of Michelin-starred Dewakan; Leisa Tyler, food writer and former board member of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants; and Adrian Yap, founder of Tiffin Culinary. TK’s Mamie Chen recently met with Teoh and Tyler to learn more about the three-pronged approach of the festival’s mission to inspire a future of environmentally conscious food production and consumption in Southeast Asia. § Kita美食节是源自马来西亚的年度美食盛事,于2021年首度举办。 它不只是一场以东南亚为主题的美食庆典,也是酒店餐饮业者的可持续饮食教育平台。这场盛会由 马来西亚米其林星级餐厅 Dewakan 主厨 Darren Teoh、美食作家兼前《世界50最佳餐厅》评审委员 会成员 Leisa Tyler,以及Tiffin Culinary创始人Adrian Yap 共同创立。TK近期与Darren和 Leisa会面,

了解Kita美食节如何透过三大任务,促进未来东南亚对于餐饮生产和消费的环保意识。

TASTING NEWS
122 | TK | GIFTS FROM THE EARTH

Leisa Tyler: “Kita” means “we” or “us” in Malay. So, it’s about community and bringing people together. We always had this notion that a community is much stronger if we stick together. We have much more strength as a community.

Darren Teoh: We need a sense of community to effect the kind of change that we think is necessary. Individually, all of the chefs in the participating restaurants feel the same. Together, if we speak the same language and share the same principles and desires, we will see the market start to change from the demand. What we serve to our guests can change. Then, what the guests start to buy from the markets will also change. So, the farmers will change. And then government regulations may also start to change.

The pinnacle of all this is on three fronts: the dinners and collaborations; Horizons, which is our young chef development or exposure program; and Conversations, where we learn from industry leaders.

GASTRONOMY EVENTS

DT: Leisa and I spent a lot of time selecting people whose values align with ours. Folks who were cooking in different restaurants and who resonated values that we share, who try to source locally, for example. We didn’t have a mandate and we didn’t say “you have to cook like this,” but these are people who already do.

We bring down guest chefs so they can immerse themselves in the culinary culture that already exists and then cook with the products that are here.

Leisa Tyler:「Kita」在马来语中有着「我们」的 意思,有关乎社区和团结人心的意涵。我们相 信若大家能团结一致,社区就会更强大,也就 会带来更多力量。

Darren Teoh: 我们需要一种社区意识,以实现 我们认为必要的变革。每一位合作餐厅的厨师 都有一样的感受。如果我们达成共识,有相同 的原则和期望,我们将看到市场从需求开始发 生变化。我们供应给顾客的食物会跟着改变, 而顾客购买的东西也会跟着改变。随之而来的, 将是农民的改变,而政府法规也可能开始改变。 这一切的顶峰源于三大任务:晚宴与主厨 联手活动、Horizons 年轻厨师计画,以及与行 业领袖的 Conversations 座谈会。

美食活动

DT: Leisa 和我花了很多时间筛选与我们有共同 价值观的人。这一群人在不同餐厅服务,却和 我们拥有一样的理念,像是尝试让料理食材来 源在地化。我们没有强制要求,也没有说「你 必须用这样的方式料理」,但这些人早就已经这 么做了。 我们邀请客座厨师来到这里,让他们沉浸 在自己本身就在力行的料理精神,并使用这里 提供的食材进行料理。

COURTESY OF KITA FOOD FESTIVAL
gifts from the earth | TK | 123
(4)

HORIZONS

LT: Horizons runs for about three and a half months. We take twelve young chefs who have already proven themselves. We bring them to different farms and factories that are doing the right thing, as far as we are concerned. We put them in front of heritage cuisine chefs and avant-garde chefs. And then we get them to cook a dinner for everyone on the final night. But there’s a catch! They can only use offcut meats and grade-2-quality products. They cannot use anything premium whatsoever, but they have to make delicious food.

DT: Because we want to shift their perspectives so they consider these as ingredients –not “superior” or “inferior” ingredients – that, when cooked right, can taste great. As these young chefs step further into their careers, we want them to have this as a seed that they will continue to think about more and more.

CONVERSATIONS

DT: We wanted to encourage people to discuss food from a non-consumer point of view. Usually when we talk about food, we are only talking from the food consumption side –where is the best food? Is it Wagyu or Hanwoo beef?

We wanted to have a conversation that revolved around food production – the artisanality, what is going on around the world –and bring that to Singapore and Kuala Lumpur. We felt this was important, not only for people in the industry but also for foodies who crave something that is more than just what you put in your mouth, something where you can be a part of a very live and land-relevant discussion.

THE FUTURE

LT: I don’t think that we even thought we would get this far. We’ve got the model –people follow us and turn up to the events. The next goal is we need to be able to make it financially viable.

TASTING NEWS
COURTESY OF KITA FOOD FESTIVAL 124 | TK | gifts from the earth

HORIZONS 年轻厨师计画

LT: Horizons 为期约三个半月。我们会选出十二名受认可的年 轻厨师,并带他们前往不同农场和工厂,这些地方正在做我们 认为正确的事情。我们会让他们面对风格传统和前卫的厨师, 并请他们在最后一个晚上为每个人料理。但有个条件!他们只 能使用肉类边角料和二级食材 他们须在不使用任何高级食 材的情况下,做出美味的食物。

DT: 我们希望可以借此改变他们的观点,把这些边角料视为食 材,借此放下「食材有优越或次等之分」的观念。只要料理方 法得当,这些食材也可以变得美味可口。我们希望可以把这种 想法化作一粒种子,并在他们往后的厨艺生涯中持续发芽。

CONVERSATIONS 座谈会

DT: 我们希望鼓励人们从非消费者的角度讨论食物。关于食物, 我们通常只从食物消耗的角度讨论 哪里有最好的食物? 是日本和牛还是韩国和牛?

我们想要开启一场关于食品生产的对话,内容包括其中 的工艺和全球动向,并将其带到新加坡和吉隆坡。我们认为这 些议题的重要性不只涉及业内人士,也包括追求食物之外、渴 望参与讨论食物与土地的美食爱好者。

展望未来

LT: 我从未想过我们会走到这一步。我们有一个好的基础 人们会关注我们的活动资讯并参加活动。我们下一个阶段的目 标,是落实商业上的可行性。

Leisa Tyler and Darren Teoh

gifts from the earth | TK | 125
COURTESY OF KITA FOOD FESTIVAL, MARK HAMMONS

Alchemist

5 Western Refshalevej 173C, DK-1432 Copenhagen, Denmark

17:00-02:00

Closed on Sundays and Mondays q +45 31 71 61 61

Asaya Kitchen

5 Mediterranean

6/F, Rosewood Hong Kong, Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong

香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道18号Victoria Dockside香港瑰丽酒店六楼

Lunch: 12:00-15:30

Dinner: Wed-Sun: 18:00-22:30 q +852 3891 8732

Bar Magritte

5 Bar Rue de L’Amigo, 1000 Bruxelles, Belgium q +32 2 547 47 19

Canton Room 粤轩

5 Cantonese

1/F, 72 Gloucester Road, Gloucester Luk Kwok Hong Kong, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

香港湾仔告士打道72号六国酒店一楼

Lunch: 10:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-23:00 q +852 2866 3806

Chiado 希雅度葡国餐厅

5 Portuguese Shop 2206, Level 2, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macao

澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人2楼2206号 17:30-22:30

Closed on Tuesdays q +853 8118 8822

Chinesology

唐述

5 Chinese Shop 3101, Podium Level 3, ifc mall, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环国际金融中心商场三楼3101号

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:00

q +852 6809 2299

jean may

5 French Shop A, 14 Gresson Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

香港湾仔机利臣街14号地下A铺

Lunch: 12:00-16:00

Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays

q +852 9180 6778

UTM Educational Restaurant

澳门旅游大学教学餐厅

5 Macanese, Portuguese and Western

Colina de Mong-Há, Macao, China

澳门望厦山

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

Dinner: 18:30-22:00

q +853 8598 3077

Qura Bar

5 Bar and lounge Lobby floor, Regent Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong

香港九龙尖沙咀梳士巴利道18号香港丽晶酒

店大堂

Sun-Thur: 17:30-00:00

Fri-Sat: 17:30-01:00

q +852 2313 2313

A Smart elegant

Roganic

5 Contemporary British UG08, Sino Plaza, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

香港铜锣湾告士打道255号信和广场UG楼8号

Lunch: 12:00-14:00

Dinner: 18:00-21:00

Closed on Mondays

q +852 2817 8383

SKYE

5 French

27/F, The Park Lane Hong Kong, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong

香港铜锣湾告士打道310号香港柏宁酒店

27楼

Sun-Thu: 12:00-00:00

Fri-Sat: 12:00-01:00

q +852 2839 3327

Sushi Zinc

5 Japanese

Shop A2, G/F, 5-7 Miu Tung Street, Shau Kei

Wan, Hong Kong

香港筲箕湾庙东街5-7号地下A2室

19:00-23:00

q +852 9867 5271

Yellow Fin Horse

5 Western

145, Jalan Tun H S Lee, Else Kuala Lumpur

Hotel, 50000 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia 18:00-00:00

Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays

q +60 18 2110313

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