TK60 Top of the Pass

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TASTING KITCHEN

TOP OF THE PASS

HANGZHOU

TASTINGKITCHEN TOP OF THE PASS 60

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化,艺术设计,以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited • www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座

Mark Hammons

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER

创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com

Joey Cheang DEPUTY PUBLISHER

副出版人 joey@tasting-kitchen.com

Mamie Chen

Marilyn Burkley

Robert Burkley

Zita Wan

SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

Vivian Pun

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER 数字媒体经理

Victoria Lei

Odelia Kuok

PROJECT MANAGERS 项目经理

David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

IMAGE EDITOR

图像编辑

Jin Lao

IMAGE TECHNICIAN

图像技术员

Kate Nicholson

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

ART AND DESIGN

特约编辑-艺术设计专栏

Annabel Jackson

Chris Dwyer

Julie Tu

Lorria Sahmet

Victoria Burrows

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

特約作家

ON THE COVER

Photography by David Hartung

This pear-shaped tribute to mountain clouds, an ethereal creation from Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fong of Chef Tam’s Seasons at Wynn Palace Macau, captures the essence of Top of the Pass – where elevated cuisine meets artistry at the peak of perfection.

在澳门永利皇宫的谭卉,这道梦幻甜品出自行政总厨 谭国锋之手,完美诠释了「厨传巅峰」的主题 香 梨犹如被山间云雾环绕,将顶级厨艺与艺术之美升华 至巅峰。

Alicia Beebe ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

Richard Lee

SENIOR BUSINESS CONSULTANT

高级业务顾问

Phoebe Yeung

SENIOR ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

高级客戶总监

Lucy Morgan

BUREAU CHIEF, PARIS

巴黎区编辑主管

Elaine Wong CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER 营销总监 elaine@tasting-kitchen.com

John Ng

WINE & SPIRITS DIRECTOR

葡萄酒及烈酒总监

Eleanor Hawkins

REGIONAL EVENTS DIRECTOR

区域活动策划总监

Khushee Soni

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TRANSLATION SERVICES

翻译服务 Babel Communications jonna@babel.com.tw

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Asia One Printing Limited 宏亚印务有限公司

Jaakko Sorsa OCEAN TABLE EXECUTIVE CHEF OCEAN TABLE 行政总厨 jaakko@tasting-kitchen.com

Jonna Chen

ACCOUNTS MANAGER

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Amber Qian

MARCOM MANAGER, MAINLAND CHINA

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Eddie Cheung

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA

中国内地编辑总监

Edison Xia

EDITOR, MAINLAND CHINA

中国内地编辑

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2025 All rights reserved

Welcome to TK60, Top of the Pass.

In the heart of every fine-dining kitchen, the pass is where it all comes together – where plates are refined, garnishes fall into place, and fleeting moments become lasting impressions. It’s a place of precision, heat, and discipline. But it’s also a stage. And in this issue, we celebrate the chefs who stand at the very top of it.

Top of the Pass is a tribute to culinary leadership across Asia. It’s a toast to the creative minds reshaping what it means to cook at the highest level – and to the quiet mastery that fuels their every move. From Bangkok to Seoul, from Macau to Tokyo, from vineyard estates to waterfront pavilions, these chefs are not only crafting exceptional food – they’re defining an era. We take you behind the scenes of the awards ceremonies of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2025 and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 to meet the people behind the plates: Gaggan Anand’s audacious storytelling, Vicky Cheng’s refined reinterpretations of Chinese heritage, and Chef Tam’s deep alignment with the rhythms of the land. And in Hangzhou, we shine a spotlight on Chef Wang Yong of Jin Sha, whose poetic balance of tradition and technique at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake has helped establish the restaurant as one of China’s most compelling culinary destinations.

At Tasting Kitchen (TK), we believe great cuisine isn’t only about ingredients or execution – it’s about expression. It’s about people. And in these pages, you’ll meet some of the most expressive, driven, and visionary individuals in food today. Their dishes may last only minutes. Their ideas, we suspect, much longer.

亲爱的 TK 读者,展卷愉快。 欢迎阅览 TK 第 60 期《厨传巅峰 ( Top of the Pass)》。 在每一家顶级餐厅的厨房核心地带, 传菜台(pass)是所有元素汇聚之处 摆盘在这里得到精雕细琢,配菜在此刻各 归其位,转瞬即逝的瞬间化作永恒的印 记。这是一个讲究精准、高温与纪律的殿 堂,更是一座舞台。在本期,我们向那些 站在传菜台最前端的厨艺大师致敬。

本期是对亚洲餐饮界领军人物的礼 赞。它既是对那些重塑顶级烹饪意义的创 意头脑的致敬,也是对他们每个动作背后 所蕴含的深厚功底的颂扬。从曼谷到首 尔,从澳门到东京,从葡萄庄园到海滨亭 阁,这些厨师不仅在创选非凡佳肴,更在 定义一个时代。

我们将带您走进《香港澳门米其林 指南 2025》颁奖典礼,以及「亚洲 50 最 佳餐厅」评选的幕后,认识那些缔造盘中 美味的幕后英雄:Gaggan Anand 大胆的 叙事烹饪,郑永麒对中国传统美食的精妙 诠释,以及谭师傅与土地韵律的深刻共 鸣。在杭州,我们聚焦金沙厅的王勇师傅, 他在杭州西子湖四季酒店以传统与技艺 的诗意融合,将金沙厅打造成中国最具魅 力的美食目的地之一。

我们坚信,伟大的烹饪不仅在于食 材或技法,更关乎表达,关乎人。在这方 纸页间,您将遇见当今餐饮界一些最具表 现力、最富进取心和远见的杰出人物。 他们呈现的菜肴或许仅存几分钟, 但我们深信,他们的理念将长久留存。 请享受悦读时光。

Founder and Publisher

自我命题

self-connections

Food, fantasy, and identity collide in Thai artist Gongkan’s surreal reflections on belonging and time.

THE CONCEPT OF “right person, wrong time” is a central theme in Asynchronous Affinities, a solo exhibition by Thailand-born artist Gongkan at Tang Contemporary Art in Hong Kong from March to May. The unsettling phrase spurs exploration of the conflict between the individual and the time or culture they inhabit. “Sometimes we feel like we don’t belong,” says Gongkan, “but maybe it’s not we who are wrong – it’s the context that makes us feel that way. Growing up with certain expectations can make it hard to feel fully like ourselves.”

In the one-meter-square acrylic Beauty of the Past (Ikebana), the artist highlights his long-time fascination with Japanese floral arrangement as a reflection of Asian beauty in the face of chaos. The painting holds high the messy, overwhelming aspects of life as something worth honoring, “a life that has experienced so much,” as Gongkan puts it.

His art is undeniably surrealist, inspired by seminal figures René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. “The genre gives me the freedom to express both thought and imagination in my visuals,” he explains. “It creates a unique space where reality blends with fantasy, and I enjoy combining the two.” In the painting We’re Burning Together, a planet-shaped peephole into space replaces the eyes of two people pressed cheek to cheek.

Gongkan has depicted these “teleportation holes” since his earliest days sticker-bombing city streets. In Asynchronous Affinities, he expands on the iconography. According to exhibition curator Larys Frogier, Gongkan’s images “magnificently unfold as contact zones, areas of passage, but also as extended

「对的人 / 错的时间」这一概念,是泰 国艺术家 Gongkan 于 3 月至 5 月在香港 当代唐人艺术中心举办的个展《异时 • 相系》(Asynchronous Affinities)的核 心主题。这句令人不安的话,促使人们 去探索个体与所处时代或文化之间的冲 突。Gongkan 说:「有时我 们会觉得自己格格不入,但 或许问题不在于我们自身, 而是所处的环境让我们有这 样的感觉。在特定的期望中成长,会让 我们很难完全做自己。」

在一幅名为《过去的美丽(花道)》 的一平方米丙烯画作中,Gongkan 突显 了他长期以来对日本花道的着迷,将其 视为面对混乱时亚洲美学的一种体现。

这幅画作将生活中杂乱无章、令人应接 不暇的方面,视为值得敬重之物。正如 他所说,那是「一段经历丰富的生命」。

他的艺术作品无疑具有超现实主义 风格,受到 René Magritte 和 Salvador Dalí 等重要人物的影响。他解释:「这种 风格让我在视觉表达上能够自由地展现 思想和想象力。它创造了一个独特的空 间,现实与幻想在此交融,我享受将两 者结合的过程。」在画作《我们一起燃烧》 中,两个脸颊相贴的人的眼睛,被一个 形似行星的太空窥视孔所取代。

Gongkan 早期在城市街道上贴满贴 纸时,就描绘过这些「瞬移之洞」。在 《异步联结》展览中,他对这一意象进 行了拓展。策展人 Larys Frogier 介绍, Gongkan 的作品「宏伟地展开成接触区、 通道区域,同时也是能量的延伸场。这

Beauty of the Past (Ikebana), 100 x 100 cm, acrylic on canvas, completed 2025 《过去的美丽(花道)》,100×100厘米,布面丙烯,2025年

GONGKAN

Fusion Cuisine, 100 x 100 cm, acrylic on canvas, completed 2025

“In any culture food is a fundamental social act that contains multiple and contradictory values related to cultural identity, family bonds or conflicts, national affiliation, or cross-cultural links.

在任何文化中,食物都是一项基 本的社会活动,其中蕴含着与 文化身份、家庭纽带或冲突、

民族归属感或跨文化联系相关 的多重且相互矛盾的价值观。”

fields of energies that could express resistance and opposition, reaction and counteraction, sadness or fierceness, eroticism or meditation, serenity or criticality.”

Laying out a spread for deeper musings on identity, memory, and societal values are Fusion Cuisine, a large artwork showing two disembodied heads peering out from tableware beside a flower-filled vase on a Chinesestyle table, and the installation by the same name, where dishes of fast fashion, magazines, and CDs revolve on a lazy Susan. “In any culture,” explains Frogier, “food is a fundamental social act that contains multiple and contradictory values related to cultural identity, family bonds or conflicts, national affiliation, or cross-cultural links. In this exhibition, food deals with such cultural frictions but also goes beyond them, embracing larger topics, such as pollution, environmental care, overconsumption, artificiality, and destruction of human and nonhuman components.”

As both a graphic designer and a contemporary artist, Gongkan favors clean visuals and relies on his own aesthetic language. “As I grow,” he says, “my work develops with me. I approach ideas the way I did in advertising, but with an artistic side that’s more emotional and expressive.” That evolution prompts the question, what comes next? “I want to explore more cultural narratives,” he says, “especially ones that feel relevant to me. Asian culture and generational themes are topics I feel particularly connected to right now.” At its heart is a drive for self-acceptance: “I hope my art helps viewers reconnect with themselves.”

些能量可以表达抵抗与对立、反应与反击、悲伤或激烈、情欲 或冥想、平静或批判」。

大型画作《融合料理》及其同名装置作品,为深入思考身 份、记忆和社会价值观提供了素材。在画作中,两个脑袋从一 张中式桌子上的花瓶旁的餐具中探出头来;而在同名装置作品 中,装有时尚快消品、杂志和光盘的盘子在转盘上旋转。Larys 解释道:「在任何文化中,食物都是一项基本的社会活动,其中 蕴含着与文化身份、家庭纽带或冲突、民族归属感或跨文化联 系相关的多重且相互矛盾的价值观。这次我们透过食物探讨了 这些文化冲突,同时也超越了它们,涵盖了更广泛的话题,如 污染、环境保护、过度消费、人造性,以及人类和非人类成分 的破坏。」

作为平面设计师和当代艺术家,Gongkan 偏爱简洁的视觉 效果,并依自己独特的审美语言而为。他说:「随着成长,我的 作品也与我共同发展。我处理创意的方式和在广告行业时一样, 但艺术层面的表达更具情感和表现力。」这种演变引发了一个问 题:接下来会是什么?他说:「我想探索更多文化叙事,尤其是 那些与我息息相关的内容。目前,亚洲文化和世代主题是我特 别有共鸣的话题。」其核心在于自我接纳的渴望:「我希望我的 艺术能帮助观众重新与自己建立联系。」

We’re Burning Together, 24.2 x 18.3 cm, acrylic on canvas, completed 2025 《我们一起燃烧》,24.2×18.3厘米,布面丙烯,2025年

Noritake Design Collection, Bangle Collection, designed by AB Concept.

由AB Concept设计, Noritake Design Collection 制作的Bangle系列餐具。

瓷韵自然

feeling nature

AB Concept and Noritake Design Collection transform natural textures into fine porcelain to create a deeper connection between food and its sources.

HONORING THE ORIGINS of ingredients is a concept central to culinary approaches ranging from farm-to-fork cuisine to seasonally focused Japanese omakase dining. Hong Kong-based luxury design firm AB Concept and Noritake Design Collection elevate this idea with their inaugural Bangle Collection. The dishes’ form resembles a stack of statement bangles, while the finishes are inspired by nature’s topographies. The first series, Ocean Bangles, drawing from the quiet beauty of life under white-tipped waves, features tubercles from sea urchin tests and ribs and nodes of clamshells.

“We wanted the Ocean Bangle series to feel as though it belongs in a space where ingredients are carefully sourced and presentation is elevated to an art form,” says Ed Ng, cofounder of AB Concept. “By inviting diners to not only taste but also feel nature, the collection deepens the experience at the table, allowing guests to truly connect with the natural world.”

从农场到餐桌,再到遵循时令的日本「厨 师发办」料理,餐饮界始终秉持同一理 念:致敬食材本源。香港设计事务所 AB Concept 与 Noritake Design Collection 通 过首套 Bangle 餐具将这一理念升华 餐具造型如叠戴的手环,表面处理则从自 然地貌汲取灵感。首个海洋系列从浪尖白 沫下的静谧生命获取灵感,呈现海胆壳的 结节与蛤蜊壳的肋纹结构。

The process of creating the Bangle Collection presented manufacturing challenges that stretched Noritake’s already industry-defining knowledge. “It was particularly difficult to apply the glaze evenly and maintain the subtle color and texture during the high-temperature firing process,” says Tomoyuki Katada of the executive office at Noritake. “To solve this problem, we developed a new glaze formula and achieved the ideal texture by having artisans manually adjust the glaze thickness.” The design process posed hurdles for the AB Concept team, too. One of the main challenges, Ng explains, was “achieving a level of texture that felt authentic and true to its natural inspiration.” Working closely with their R&D lab, they used 3D model printing to prototype intricate surfaces with a high degree of precision before translating them into porcelain.

The Bangle Collection was well-received by guests at its Milan Design Week debut in April, with many commenting on the tableware’s ability to enhance the dining experience by elevating food presentation while looking just as good on a shelf when not in use. “The Bangle Collection features a unique tactile quality, offering chefs and food enthusiasts a blank canvas for culinary expression,” says Ng. “It allows them to freely explore their creativity, interweaving sight, smell, taste, and touch to create one-of-a-kind culinary stories.” Porcelain dinnerware enthusiasts with a love for natural textures are in luck: AB Concept and Noritake are preparing to launch their new Forest Series in the near future. “The ocean and forest are vast sources of inspiration, providing endless opportunities to design new pieces,” Ng notes. “To me, the Bangle Collection feels like an open-ended journey with limitless possibilities for expansion.”

AB Concept 联合创办人 伍仲匡说:「我们希望海洋系 列能融入食材经精挑细选、摆 盘显艺术之美的空间。这套餐 具邀请食客深化餐桌体验,实现人与自然 世界的真实联结。」

Bangle 系列的烧制过程为 Noritake 本已领先业界的生产工艺带来了挑战。

Noritake 执行办公室的 Tomoyuki Katada 坦言:「高温烧制时均匀施釉并保持微妙 的色泽与肌理尤其困难。我们研发了一种 新的釉料配方,并由工匠手工调整釉层厚 度,从而达成理想的纹理效果。」设计过 程同样因难重重,伍仲匡解释最大难点在 于「还原令人信服的自然肌理感」。团队 与研发实验室紧密合作,先以 3D 打印技 术精准制作复杂的原型表面,再转化为瓷 器。

Bangle 系列于四月的米兰设计周首 度亮相,便已广获赞誉。宾客盛赞它既能 提升食物的呈现效果,不使用时亦是优雅 展品。伍仲匡表示:「Bangle 系列拥有独 特的触感品质,为厨师与美食爱好者提供 展现烹饪创意的空白画布,让他们自由调 动视觉、嗅觉、味觉与触觉,编织独一无 二的美食叙事。」钟爱自然肌理的瓷器藏 家将再次迎来惊喜:森林系列即将面世。 伍仲匡说:「海洋与森林都是无尽的灵感 宝库。Bangle 系列如同一场永无止境的 旅程,充满无限可能。」

鎏香映画

scene-driven ambience

Housed in a historic Shanghai villa, Mi Shang Prada, the luxury brand’s first restaurant in Asia, channels filmmaker Wong Kar Wai.

IN WONG KAR WAI’S landmark 2000 film, In the Mood for Love, Mrs. Su (Maggie Cheung) and Mr. Chow (Tony Leung) cross the narrow corridor of their apartment building in hushed, glancing encounters brimming with unspoken longing.

Mi Shang Prada offers visitors a similar sense of quiet intimacy. Guests move through rooms that, like fleeting moments in the film, collapse the boundaries between modern life and history, emotion and pragmatism, reality and fiction. Located on the second floor of Prada Rong Zhai, a renovated 1918 Shanghai estate reopened in 2017, the space features interiors conceptualized by Wong. It offers café-style fare as well as fine dining, a contrast that seamlessly mirrors the philatelic concept of tête-bêche – a pair of joined postage stamps printed in opposing orientations. The name Mi Shang, a portmanteau of “Milan meets Shanghai” that also means “be obsessed with” in Chinese, reflects themes of obsession that permeate Wong’s films.

Each of the restaurant’s distinctly designed rooms unfolds, perhaps unsurprisingly considering their maker, with a scene-driven ambience. The boundary between the present and memory, old Shanghai and new, feels as gently blurred as it does in Wong Kar Wai’s films. Visitors enter The Pastry Shop, helmed by world-champion pastry chef Diego Crosara, through a corridor decorated with woodblock artworks from the Rising Clouds, Blooming Flowers series, a collaboration

in The

Room evoke scenes from Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love 餐厅内的卡座让人想起王家卫电 影作品《花样年华》中的场景。

在王家卫 2000 年的经典之作《花样年华》中,苏太太(张曼玉饰)和周先 生(梁朝伟饰)在公寓狭窄的走廊擦肩而过,那些匆匆的相遇中,眼波流 转间尽是欲说还休的渴望。

「迷上 Prada 荣宅」为访客营造出类似的静谧亲密之感。宾客穿梭于各 个房间之间,就像电影中稍纵即逝的瞬间,打破了现代生活与历史、情感 与理智、现实与虚构之间的界限。餐厅位于 2017 年修缮重啓的 1918 年上 海老宅 —— 荣宅的二楼,空间内部由王家卫构思设计。这里既提供咖啡馆 风格的餐食,也有精致佳肴,这种对比恰如其分地呼应了邮票中的「对倒」 概念 —— 即两枚印制方向相反的相连邮票。「迷上」这个名字是「米兰遇见

Booths
Dining

between Wong and Duo Yun Xuan Art Center inspired by the television series Blossoms Shanghai. There they find exquisite Italian pastries housed in cherrywood and brass cabinetry reminiscent of Prada’s earliest boutiques. Crosara looked to the aesthetic universe of Wong when crafting his offerings. Regional desserts like tiramisu, cassata, and pasticciotto are reimagined in form while staying true to their origins. “There must be harmony between what is seen and what is tasted,” he notes.

上海」的组合词,在中文中也有「迷恋」之意,反映了王 家卫电影中贯穿始终的执念主题。

考虑到设计者电影大师的身份,每个厅室都延续着 「场景驱动」的美学逻辑,或许并不令人意外。现在与回 忆、旧上海与新时代的界限,如同王家卫镜头下那般温柔 模糊。访客从一条装饰着《云起花开》木版水印系列艺术 作品的走廊进入由世界冠军级糕点师 Diego Crosara 主理 的糕点店。该系列作品是王家卫与艺术品牌朵云轩合作, 灵感源自电视剧《繁花》。樱桃木与黄铜打造的展柜陈列

The Library holds a curated selection of Chinese and Italian design books. 藏书室收藏了一系列精心挑选的中意设计类书籍。

Guests move through The Caffè with its Art Deco Shanghai elements before entering The Study, a real-world embodiment of Wong’s “frame within a frame” device. They peruse a collection of books on Chinese crafts and Italian design in The Library before continuing to The Dining Room and The Terrace. “I studied the structure of the villa and the layout to integrate the elements with the dining experience,” says Executive Chef Lorenzo Lunghi. “Every detail, from the arrangement of tables to the play of mirrors, shaped my creative approach.” The Dining Room evokes the intimate booths and hues of In the Mood for Love, and The Terrace, nestled in Prada Rong Zhai’s garden, offers dining in the open air.

Both chefs were drawn to the lotus flowers adorning the walls of Rong Zhai as inspiration. “Beyond the symbolic meaning,” says Lunghi, “the lotus flower has influenced me visually and culinarily in creating elegant and refined dishes. We also incorporated it into the ceramics that accompany the dishes, a touch that echoes the decorations in the space.” Similarly, Crosara “wanted to integrate the symbol into my work, incorporating it into the decoration of the pastries, including the millefeuille.” Flowers are a recurring motif in Wong Kar Wai’s films, appearing in the boldly floral cheongsams worn by Mrs. Su in In the Mood for Love and in Happy Together as a metaphor for a relationship that once blossomed and is now wilting.

着精美的意式糕点,让人联想起 Prada 最早期的精品 店。Diego 在创作糕点时,借鉴了王家卫的美学世界。

对提拉米苏、西西里蛋糕 、柠檬甜点等传统糕点进 行形体重构,却始终忠于本味。他说:「视觉与味觉 必须和谐统一。」

宾客其后穿过充满上海装饰艺术元素的咖啡厅, 进入「书斋」,这里是王家卫「画中画」手法的现实 体现。宾客可以在藏书室中翻阅关于中国工艺和意 大利设计的典籍,随后继续前往正餐空间和露台。 行政总厨 Lorenzo Lunghi 表示:「我研究了宅邸的结 构和布局,将建筑元素与用餐体验相融合。从桌椅 的布局到镜子的运用,每个细节都塑造了我的创作 思路。」餐厅唤起了《花样年华》中私密卡座和色调 的回忆,而位于荣宅花园中的露台,则提供露天用 餐体验。

两位主厨都从荣宅墙上的莲花装饰汲取灵感。 Lorenzo 说:「除了象征意义,莲花从视觉和烹饪层 面都启发我创作出优雅精致的菜式。我们还将其融入 与菜式搭配的陶瓷餐具中,与空间装饰相呼应。」同 样, Diego「希望将这象征元素融入我的作品中,例 如拿破仑上的装饰」。在王家卫的电影中,花卉是一 个反复出现的主题。在《花样年华》里,苏太太身着 艳色旗袍;而在《春光乍泄》中,花卉则隐喻着一段 曾经绽放、如今却已凋零的感情。

The tiles lining The Terrace are reminiscent of those seen in Happy Together’s tango scene. 露台铺就的瓷砖让人联 想到《春光乍泄》中 的探戈场景。

Ceramic plates embellish the walls of private event space The Study. 陶瓷餐盘点缀着私人活动 空间「书斋」的墙壁。

CELEBRATING

THE UNVEILING OF THE MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG AND MACAU 2025 BECOMES A GALA TRIBUTE TO THE REGION’S EXCEPTIONAL RESTAURANTS, TALENTED CHEFS, AND TRENDSETTING FOOD.

THE STARS

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

THE 2025 MICHELIN GUIDE awards ceremony for Hong Kong and Macau, recently held at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, was an unforgettable evening, a celebration of culinary brilliance and innovation, an occasion to bring together the region’s top chefs and restaurateurs and honor their achievements.

This year’s Guide features 260 restaurants, including ninety-five with Michelin stars, seventy-six in Hong Kong and nineteen in Macau. Among the highlights were the award of a third star to Amber and a second star to Chef Tam’s Seasons.

Underscoring the region’s dynamic and evolving culinary landscape were seven new restaurants winning their first Michelin star: Ami, Plaisance by Mauro Colagreco, and Tuber Umberto Bombana in Hong Kong, along with Aji, Mizumi, Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa, and Zuicho in Macau.

Adding to the evening’s excitement was “Art on a Plate,” a unique presentation designed to showcase the artistry of gastronomy. Behind a

近日于澳门上葡京综合度假村举办的《香港澳 门米其林指南 2025》颁奖典礼,以难忘的夜 晚礼赞烹饪艺术与创新精神,并云集两地厨艺 界翘楚,共同见证加冕时刻。

今年的《香港澳门米其林指南》收录了 260 间餐厅,其中 95 间荣膺星级荣耀(香港 76 间,澳门 19 间)。最瞩目的当属 Amber 晋 升三星,以及谭卉摘得二星。

七间新晋一星餐厅更彰显了两地餐饮版 图的蓬勃生机:香港的 Ami、Plaisance by Mauro Colagreco、Tuber Umberto Bombana ; 澳门的雅吉、「泓」日本料理、「鮨吉祥 宫川」、 瑞兆。

当晚的一大亮点是「盘中艺术」展演, 展现了烹饪艺术的极致魅力。在一道气势恢宏 的黑色幕布后,一群世界级名厨气定神闲地站

Cacao Chunko Sphere 可可球 ②

Extreme Altitude Choclo, Lamb, Panca 玉米羊肉佐秘鲁辣椒酱

Cold Seawater Scallop, Spirulina 冷海水扇贝、螺旋藻

Beef, Betel Leaves, Calamansi 牛肉、槟榔叶、金桔

Mushroom, Black Garlic, Fermented Rice 蘑菇、黑蒜、酒酿

Yellow Croaker with Shepherd’s Purse Dumpling 荠菜黄鱼蒸饺

dramatic black curtain, a lineup of world-class chefs stood coolly at their stations, ready to reveal their masterpieces. As the curtain rose, they stepped into the spotlight one by one to present stunning canapés that demonstrated their creativity and craftsmanship.

The roster of chefs included such culinary stars such as Julien Tongourian of Robuchon au Dôme, Richard Ekkebus of Amber, Wong Chi Fai of T’ang Court, Ding Yong of Xi Rong Ji, Santiago Fernandez of Maz, Auntie Gaik Lean from Malaysia, Sam Tran of Vietnam’s Gia, and Arvin Wan of Taiwan’s Minimal.

Each dish highlighted consummate expertise and finesse, from Richard Ekkebus’s intricate Foie Gras, Beet Root & Raspberry Chup Chup to Wong Chi Fai’s Cantonese classic Stir-Fried Japanese Wagyu Beef with Spring Onion and Wasabi.

As the host venue, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau provided the perfect backdrop to the evening. The setting’s sense of grandeur made it a fitting stage for an event saluting excellence in the culinary arts. And the “Art on a Plate” showcase brought to life all the passion and dedication that define each and every Michelin star.

Red Abalone Liver Chawanmushi with Plankton, Seaweed & Sweet Peas Ragu 鲍鱼肝茶碗蒸配微藻粉末、紫菜及甜豆肉酱 ②

Abalone, Vietnamese Citrus Pepper, Starfruit 鲍鱼、越南胡椒、杨桃

White Asparagus Mousse with Wu Liang Ye and Beans

白芦笋慕斯配五粮液和豆

Kerabu Bee Hoon 娘惹拉拌米粉

在工作台前,准备揭晓他们的杰作。随着幕 布缓缓升起,他们逐一登场,在聚光灯下呈 现尽展创意与匠心的惊艳小点。

这个厨师阵容包括:天巢法国餐厅 的 Julien Tongourian 、 Amber 的 Richard Ekkebus、唐阁的黄智辉、新荣记的丁勇、 Maz 的 Santiago Fernandez、来自马来西亚 的 Auntie Gaik Lean、越南 Gia 的 Sam Tran, 以及台湾 Minimal 的万士杰。

每道小点皆彰显他们的高超技艺和细腻 手法:从 Richard Ekkebus 繁复的鹅肝、甜菜 头、覆盆子啫喱,到黄智辉演绎粤式经典的 芥末香葱爆和牛粒,无不令人赞叹。

作为东道主,澳门上葡京综合度假村的 宏伟气度,成就了这场致敬烹饪艺术和卓越 成就的盛事。这种「盘中艺术」,则生动地诠 释了每一颗米其林星星所蕴含的热忱与奉献 精神。

Minimal Ice Cream 3 Flavors: Bi Luo Chun, Sugarcane, Angelica Root (left); Pine Needle, Camellia Oil, Herb Tea (middle); Olive Oil, Oolong Tea, Magnolia (right) Minimal的三款雪糕: 碧螺春、甘蔗、山当归(左) 松针、苦茶油、青草(中) 橄榄、乌龙茶、玉兰叶(右)

Caviar with Crab and Cauliflower Mousseline

CULTURAL JULIEN TONGOURIAN HIMANSHU SAINI TOHRU NAKAMURA SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE

AT GRAND LISBOA PALACE RESORT MACAU, “CULTURAL ECHOES” TRANSFORMED DINING INTO A THEATRICAL NARRATIVE WHERE EACH PLATE TOLD A STORY OF HERITAGE AND SHARED HUMANITY.

THE GRAND PAVILION at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau recently became the epicenter of a rare gastronomic event. Four culinary visionaries from opposite corners of the globe, each bearing Michelin stars like badges of honor, converged for “Cultural Echoes,” a dining experience that defied conventional boundaries.

More than a sumptuous dinner, it was SJM ’s manifesto of what can happen when culinary diplomacy meets theatrical brilliance. The evening’s theme – “home away from home” – played out as a sensory narrative, with the four chefs revealing personally meaningful stories through their creations.

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG CULINARY

Executive Chef Julien Tongourian of Robuchon au Dôme, which has held three Michelin stars for seventeen years, anchored the event with his masterful French technique. The chef’s Egg Mimosa with King Crab and Caviar showcased his precision and 澳门上葡京综合度假村的上葡京礼堂近日成为一场美 食盛事的舞台。四位来自世界各地的米其林星级厨艺 大师,带着如勋章般闪耀的荣誉齐聚这次「文化味旅」 晚宴,打造突破常规的餐饮体验。

这不仅是一场奢华晚宴,更是澳娱综 合对「当精致佳肴遇上戏剧艺术」的完美 诠释。四位主厨以匠心巧手打造「他乡亦 故乡」的感官体验,用他乡滋味讲述各自 的文化印记。

天巢法国餐厅已稳坐米其林三星宝座 十七年,行政总厨 Julien Tongourian 以「法 式含羞草沙律蛋,帝王蟹,鱼子酱」诠释了法式烹饪 的精确美学。他说:「烹饪是无须翻译的语言,今夜 我们用致敬根源又全然创新的风味来对话。」

来自迪拜 Trèsind Studio 的主厨 Himanshu Saini 以当代技艺重新定义了印度菜。他为晚宴带来了「印 BY JOEY CHEANG

JULIEN TONGOURIAN HIMANSHU SAINI

TOHRU NAKAMURA SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE

ECHOES

reverence for tradition. “Cooking is a language that needs no translation,” he remarked. “Tonight, we speak through flavors that honor our roots, while creating something entirely new.”

Joining him was Chef Himanshu Saini of two Michelin-star Trèsind Studio in Dubai. Known for reimagining Indian cuisine through a contemporary lens, Saini presented his Blossom Chaat with Trio of Chutney Seasonings. “When culinary traditions meet,” he said, “magic happens. My dishes reflect the cultural crossroads where innovation meets heritage.”

Chef Tohru Nakamura brought his unique Franco-Japanese perspective from Munich’s two-Michelin-star Tohru in der Schreiberei. His Scallop, Aspic of Mussels, Yuzukosho, and Roasted Shell Beurre Blanc captivated diners with its delicate harmony.

“I create bridges between cultures through food,” he said. “Each dish tells a story of connection and shared humanity.”

Completing the quartet was Chef Sang-Hoon Degeimbre

度鲜花沙律,三种印度酸辣调味酱」,并表示:「当烹 饪传统相遇,魔法就会出现。我的菜肴犹如传统与创 新交汇的文化十字路口。」

主厨 Tohru Nakamura 则携其独特的法日融合理 念而来。这位来自慕尼黑米其林二星餐厅 Tohru in der Schreiberei 的料理大师,以一道「带子,青口冻,柚 子胡椒配烤白贝奶油酱」征服了在场宾客。他说:「我 通过食物搭建文化间的桥梁,每道菜肴都在诉说联结 与共情的故事。」

压轴登场的是比利时双星主厨 Sang-Hoon Degeimbre,他执掌的 L’Air du Temps 餐厅不仅获得米 其林二星,更荣膺「绿星」可持续认证。这位生于韩 国、长于比利时的主厨呈现的「鸽肉配红菜头和韩式 辣酱」,完美诠释了他的植物料理哲学。他阐释:「大 自然使用着一种通用语言,我只是将土地的馈赠转译 到餐盘之上。」

of Belgium’s L’Air du Temps, which holds two Michelin stars as well as a Michelin Green Star for sustainability. Born in South Korea and raised in Belgium, Degeimbre presented Pigeon with Beetroot and Gochujang, a dish that embodies his philosophy of botanical gastronomy. “Nature speaks a universal language,” he noted. “I listen to what the land offers and translate it onto the plate.”

Surprise performances by The Three Waiters opera singers turned the evening into an immersive theatrical experience that was further enhanced by a stunning projection map displaying the blending of Eastern and Western artistic traditions.

Commenting on the event’s significance was SJM Managing Director Daisy Ho: “‘Cultural Echoes’ not only celebrates Macau’s reputation as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy but also amplifies its role as a global culinary nexus.”

The lavish dinner represented a kind of edible diplomacy, crafted by masters who proved that, in the right hands, food can transcend its physical form to become a powerful cross-cultural dialogue.

As the menu unfolded, each of six dishes, like the chapters of a gastronomic narrative, told its own story of cultural heritage and culinary innovation:

当晚的高潮是三位侍应生突然化身歌剧演员, 将晚宴升华为沉浸式互动剧场体验。而光雕表演 则结合中西装饰艺术,构成了这场表演最生动的 和唱。

澳娱综合常务董事何超凤女士在致辞中阐释 活动深意:「『文化味旅』不仅是对澳门作为『联 合国教科文组织创意城市美食之都』的礼赞,更 彰显澳门作为全球美食枢纽的重要地位。」

这场盛宴堪称「可食用外交」的典范 在 四位烹饪大师的匠心演绎下,美食超越了物质形 态,升华为强而有力的跨文化对话。

随着菜单徐徐展开,六道佳肴犹如美食叙事 的六个篇章,各自诉说着文化传承与烹饪创新的 故事。

EGG MIMOSA WITH KING CRAB AND CAVIAR

法式含羞草沙律蛋,帝王蟹,鱼子酱

“This is a very traditional French preparation we call mimosa,” says Chef Tongourian. It begins with hard-boiled eggs, the yolks transformed into a robust mayonnaise heightened with mustard and pronounced seasoning and the whites stuffed with a seasonal mixture of hairy crab and king crab. “This is actually crab season,” notes Tongourian, who is committed to using locally available ingredients. French caviar crowning each egg adds a luxurious touch to this elegant interpretation of a French classic, served as a fitting introduction to the evening’s culinary journey.

Julien 介绍:「这是称为 mimosa 的经典法 式做法。」这道料理以水煮蛋为基底,蛋黄 制成浓郁的美乃滋,并调入芥末与香料提 味,而蛋白则填入毛蟹肉和帝王蟹肉。坚 持使用本地食材的 Julien 提到:「现在正是 蟹季。」法国鱼子酱如皇冠般点缀于鸡蛋上, 为这道经典法国菜式的优雅诠释增添奢华 感,也拉开美食之旅的序幕。

BLOSSOM CHAAT WITH TRIO OF CHUTNEY SEASONINGS 印度鲜花沙律,三种印度酸辣调味酱

Chef Saini’s creation reimagines India’s beloved street food tradition through a botanical lens. “Chaat,” he explains, “typically embodies flavor contrasts – sweet, sour, savory, spicy, umami, tangy – with diverse textures, colors, and temperatures – cold and warm at the same time.” His interpretation centers on butternut squash used in its entirety: blossoms fried into crisp tempura shells, flesh transformed into seasoned mash, and seeds toasted for texture. The composition continues with tamarind-mint seasoning, edible flowers for visual impact, and potato-crafted butterflies for a playful accent. The result is what he describes as “a refreshing way to start.”

这道印度街头小吃,被 Himanshu 以植物美学赋予新生。

他解释:「Chaat 通常融合甜、酸、咸、辣、鲜、辛等 风味对比,同时兼具丰富质地、缤纷色彩与冷热并存 的温度层次。」他的版本以南瓜为核心,花朵经酥炸成 天妇罗外衣,果肉调味后制成绵滑南瓜泥,南瓜籽则 经烘烤增添香脆口感。Himanshu 再以罗望子薄荷酱汁 调味,并用食用花卉点缀,而马铃薯制成的蝴蝶则增 添雅趣,最终呈现被他称为「清爽开场」的味觉游记。

Himanshu Saini
MICHELIN GUIDE DUBAI 2024

Tohru Nakamura

TOHRU IN DER SCHREIBEREI 3

MICHELIN GUIDE GERMANY 2024

SCALLOP, ASPIC OF MUSSELS, YUZUKOSHO AND ROASTED SHELL

BEURRE BLANC

带子,青口冻,柚子胡椒配烤白贝奶油酱

Chef Nakamura’s seafood composition, balancing “earthy taste” with “sea flavor,” begins with a translucent dashi aspic concealing razor clams and maitake mushrooms. The dish builds complexity with an emulsion of grilled French oysters, introducing smoky elements reminiscent of barbecue, and ponzu-marinated clams add brightness. At the center stands a caramelized scallop, but Nakamura’s approach to making use of the entire mollusk reveals his philosophy: the skirt is cleaned and gently cooked, and the shells are roasted to flavor butter that enriches a refined mussel beurre blanc. This thoughtful use of each component demonstrates how secondary parts can become critical flavor elements, capturing the essence of the sea in multiple dimensions.

Tohru 的海鲜料理以「泥土味」与「海潮香」的平 衡为基调,将青口与舞茸菇的鲜味组合藏在晶莹的 日式高汤冻中。法国生蚝经炙烤后制成乳化酱,烟 熏气息唤起烧烤的记忆,而用柑橘醋腌制的蛤蜊则 清新明亮。焦糖化的带子作为视觉焦点,而通常被 丢弃的扇贝裙边经精心处理,烘烤过的贝壳则用来 熏香黄油,最终融入精致的奶油酱。这种充分利用 「边角料」的哲学,让海鲜的每个部位都绽放独特 光彩。

SCAMPI RAVIOLI, FOIE GRAS SAUCE WITH BLACK TRUFFLE 螯虾意大利饺子配鹅肝酱和黑松露

Chef Tongourian’s iconic dish features magnificent Norwegian langoustines – “with shell and head, 300 grams per piece.” They yield generous tails that are gently rolled in chopped French truffle and sesame seeds before being sautéed. Cross-cultural inspiration manifests in the preparation of what Tongourian calls “dumplings, but with a French style.” The ravioli rest atop butter-cooked Savoy cabbage, accompanied by a technically brilliant sauce of langoustine bouillon reduced and enriched with foie gras butter, creating a delicate foam. Before serving, the ravioli are glazed with foie gras sauce and finished with julienned truffle. “Three flavors – truffle, langoustine, and foie gras – mixed for good balance,” notes Tongourian, referencing the famous philosophy of his mentor, Joël Robuchon.

Julien 的招牌之作以体型硕大、每只足有 300 克 重的挪威海螯虾为主角。海螯虾尾部在轻煎前, 先裹上一层法国黑松露碎与芝麻。这道菜的跨文 化灵感体现在 Julien 所说的「法式饺子」中,精 致的饺子放在精心烹制的萨伏伊白菜上,与之 相伴的是一道展现精湛技艺的酱汁 将海螯 虾高汤浓缩,融入鹅肝黄油,制成如泡沫般轻 盈的质地。饺子在上桌前要淋上鹅肝酱,并撒 上松露丝。他解说:「松露、海螯虾与鹅肝,三 种风味需要达到完美平衡。」这正是其恩师 Joël Robuchon 闻名于世的美食哲学。

Julien Tongourian

MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG MACAU 2025

ROBUCHON AU DÔME

天巢法国餐厅

Sang-Hoon Degeimbre

L’AIR DU TEMPS

PIGEON WITH BEETROOT AND GOCHUJANG

鸽肉配红菜头和韩式辣酱

Using the humble beetroot, Chef Degeimbre’s composition demonstrates his integration of Korean and European influences. The centerpiece is a sophisticated tartlet filled with beetroot confit intensified with orange juice, soy sauce, and star anise. A jangajji ribbon made with Korean preservation techniques crowns the base, and, showcasing his waste-minimizing approach, leftover beetroot becomes a gochujang-spiced mousse. Accompanying this vibrant preparation is house-pickled biquinho pepper “from our garden.” The protein element reveals Degeimbre’s technical mastery: “squab cooked for more than four hours at 50˚C,” then smoked and glazed with a complex mix of “beef garum, squab jus, brown butter, and smoked butter.” A sauce crafted from squab bones completes this thoughtful expression of cross-cultural technique.

看似朴素的红菜头在 Sang-Hoon 的巧手下, 化身为韩欧风味融合的厨艺杰作。最吸引的 是一个精致的挞壳,内填经橙汁、酱油和八 角慢煮浓缩的油封红菜头。挞底点缀着采用 韩国传统腌渍技法制作的 jangajji (酱菜)缎 带,而主厨「零浪费」理念的体现,在于将 剩余的红菜头制成韩式辣酱风味慕斯。为了 配搭这道色彩明艳的料理,Sang-Hoon 带来 自家腌制的餐厅自种 biquinho 辣椒。蛋白质 的选择则尽显主厨的技术造诣:乳鸽在 50�C 低温慢煮四小时以上,再经烟熏,最后淋上 用牛肉鱼酱、鸽肉汁、褐化黄油与烟熏黄油 调制的釉汁。以鸽骨精心熬制的酱汁为这道 菜画上完美句号,每一元素都诉说着跨文化 烹饪技艺的深度对话。

Julien Tongourian

MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG MACAU 2025

ROBUCHON AU DÔME

天巢法国餐厅

STRAWBERRY-BASED DESSERT 草莓甜品

Chef Julien Tongourian’s finale honors his mentor Joël Robuchon through eloquent minimalism. Premium Japanese strawberries – Macau’s finest seasonal treasure – appear in multiple textures within a sculpted strawberry-chocolate shell, each one brightened by lime’s gentle acidity for perfect balance. This architectural composition rests on a translucent strawberry jelly, crowned with delicate sugar artistry. In line with Robuchon’s philosophy, the dessert speaks volumes in just three harmonious flavors, proving that restraint often reveals the most profound culinary poetry.

Julien 的压轴之作以精妙极简之风向其恩师 Joël Robuchon 致敬。当季的 精选日本顶级草莓以多重质感呈现于雕琢精美的草莓巧克力脆壳之中, 每一口都因青柠的温和酸度而达到完美平衡。这道美味艺术佳作置于晶 莹剔透的草莓啫喱上,顶部缀以精致糖艺。秉承 Joël Robuchon 的美食哲 学,这款甜品仅以三种和谐风味便道尽千言万语,印证了「克制」往往 能彰显最深邃的烹饪诗意。

JACK COOPER
William Drew

环球连结 食界佳话

THE WORLD’S BEST STORIES

William Drew, at the heart of the global culinary landscape, is one of gastronomy’s most compelling narrators.

AS THE HEAD OF EDITORIAL for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, William Drew doesn’t just compile lists – he curates connections, champions authenticity, and captures the essence of what makes dining transcend mere sustenance.

“The greatest chefs are also the greatest storytellers,” he says, relaxing into our conversation. “As an organization, we in turn try to pass on their stories as well as share those of the chefs themselves. Storytelling is part of what they’re doing – storytelling through food.”

In the world’s most celebrated kitchens, this narrative approach is everywhere. Consider Hong Kong’s Mono, where each dish functions as a memoir chapter, or Paul Pairet’s recently closed Ultraviolet in Shanghai, which Drew describes as “extraordinary storytelling in a multisensory manner.” With just eight seats per service, this almost-impossible-to-book venue repeatedly ranked among the top ten of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, a testament in the eyes of many to the list’s integrity. For Drew, the essence of an exceptional restaurant transcends the food itself. “I’m a great believer in the way it makes you feel when you’re in the restaurant before you’ve even had a bite,” he says with conviction. “That makes everything taste better, quite literally and scientifically. It’s the way the team makes you feel, the way they treat you. It’s still a people business.”

作为「世界 50 最佳餐厅」的编辑主管, William Drew 的工作远不止于编制榜单 他精心编织着与大家的关系,推崇真诚,捕捉 让餐饮超越单纯果腹之需的本质精髓。 William 说:「最伟大的厨师也是最伟大 的故事讲述者。相应地,我们也试图讲述这些 故事,以及厨师们的故事。叙事是他们工作的 一部分 通过食物来讲述故事。」

这种叙事手法在世界享负盛 名的厨房中随处可见。以香港的 Mono 为例,每一道菜都宛如自传 中的一章;又例如 Paul Pairet 近期在上海停 业的 Ultraviolet,William 将其描述为「以多 感官方式进行的非凡叙事」。Ultraviolet 每餐 仅设八个座位,因此堪称「世界 50 最佳餐厅」 榜单诚信度的典范:一间食客几乎不可能重复 预订造访的餐厅,却跻身世界前十。

Such a philosophy aligns with the views of industry pioneers like Danny Meyer and Will Guidara, whose books on hospitality have become industry touchstones. What’s more, Drew, who has witnessed the evolution of dining cultures across continents, holds a perspective uniquely informed through a global lens.

Nowhere is this evolution more evident than in Asia, where 50 Best launched its regional list in 2013. “We’ve seen an increased excitement about authentic Asian cuisines rather than overly adapted ones,” notes Drew. “In the twentieth century, there was the colonial model where everything got adapted for local tastes. Now there’s more interest in authenticity.”

The search for culinary truth moves in multiple directions. While Asian cuisines gain global appreciation for their classic expressions, Western cuisines in Asia have evolved toward greater specificity – not

对 William 而言,一家好餐厅的精髓远超 于食物本身。他坚定地说:「我相信,在你品 尝第一口食物之前,餐厅带给你的感受已至关 重要。这确实能让一切味道更加美妙,从字面 和科学角度上都是如此。这关乎团队带给你的 感受,他们对待你的方式。餐饮业终究还是以 人为本的行业。」

这一理念与 Danny Meyer 和 Will Guidara 等业界先驱不谋而合,他们的餐饮服务著作已 成为行业的试金石。然而,William 的视角独 具全球视野,他见证了不同地区的餐饮文化演 变。

亚洲的演变尤为显著。2013 年,「50 最佳」 在此推出了地区榜单。William 表示:「我们见 证了大家对正宗亚洲美食的热情日益高涨,而 非过度改良的菜品。20 世纪时,殖民模式盛行, 一切都要迎合当地口味。如今,人们对正宗美 食的兴趣愈发浓厚。」

“People are traveling to different parts of the world, wanting to discover new cuisines in a deeper way. That can only be a positive thing.

消费者为美食而旅行,渴望以更深层次的方式 发现新美食。这是一件积极的事情。”

merely “Italian” restaurants but Roman or Piedmontese. At the same time, fusion continues its own sophisticated development. A case in point is Singapore’s Odette, where French techniques increasingly incorporate Asian ingredients and influences.

The pandemic, Drew reflects, has accelerated another profound shift in restaurant culture: “The thing that came out of it was a greater respect for people. That’s largely internal – how the restaurant world treats its own is super-important. The pandemic brought that into sharp focus.”

This people-centered approach has manifested in concrete changes: more four-day work weeks, less acceptance of grueling split shifts, and service that adapts to customers rather than imposing rigid standards. “The thing we’ve learned is a greater focus on human sustainability,” says Drew.

As head of editorial, he oversees content across video, social media, written storytelling, and live events. While the lists remain the vital heart of the organization, the mission has expanded to include promoting best practices and showcasing positive forces in the food world.

“We’ve earned a degree of credibility,” he says, “but with that comes responsibility. We see it as our job to push those agendas forward – to tell great stories through food, and food is one of those things that bring people together.”

50 Best’s editorial direction extends to the special awards categories that provide platforms for hospitality excellence, sustainability champions, and outstanding female chefs. These honors have empowered influential ambassadors who spread positive impact throughout the industry.

Drew cites the late Margarita Forés, Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2016, as exemplifying this ripple effect: “She was already an amazing professional figure in the Philippines, but the recognition gave her the opportunity to have a positive influence across Asia and internationally. We just helped her do that.”

One thing remarkable about the 50 Best community is the way it transforms potential competitiveness into camaraderie. Despite the high-stakes ranking system, the events maintain nearly full attendance by chefs who return year after year with their teams. Drew credits this to an approach that celebrates everyone equally, regardless of their place on the list.

这种对美食真相的追寻呈现多元方向。亚 洲美食以其正宗表达在全球赢得认可,与此同时, 亚洲的西式美食也朝着更加特定的方向发展 不再只是「意大利餐厅」,而是罗马或皮埃蒙特 风味餐厅。融合美食也在进行着精致演变,新加 坡的 Odette 便是例证,餐厅的法式烹饪技法融 入了更多亚洲食材和元素。

疫情加速了餐厅文化的另一个深刻转变。

William 反思道:「疫情带来的收获是大家对人有 了更多的尊重。这在很大程度上是内部的 餐 饮界如何对待自己的员工至关重要。疫情让这一 点变得尤为突出。」

这种以人为本的理念体现在具体的变化中: 更多四天工作制、更少令人疲惫的轮班制,以及 更加适应顾客需求而非强加刻板标准的服务。他 说:「我们学到的是更加关注人的可持续发展。」

作为编辑主管,William 负责影片、社交媒 体、文字叙事内容和现场活动等统筹。尽管榜单 仍是核心,但其使命已扩展至推广美食界最佳实 践和展示积极的力量。他说:「我们赢得了一定 程度的公信力,但随之而来的是责任。我们认为 推动这些议程向前发展是我们的职责 通过食 物讲述精彩的故事。美食是能将人们团结在一起 的伟大事物之一。」

编辑方向还延伸至特别奖项类别,为餐饮 服务卓越、可持续发展倡导者和杰出女厨师提供 被看见的平台。这些认可催生了具有影响力的代 言人,他们在整个行业中传播着积极影响。

William 以已故的 Margarita Forés 为例, 她于 2016 年荣获「亚洲最佳女厨师」称号,展 现了这种连锁效应:「她已是菲律宾餐饮界令人 瞩目的专业人物,但这荣誉让她有机会在整个亚 洲和国际上发挥积极影响。我们只是推动了这一 过程。」

「50 最佳」社群的非凡之处,在于它将潜在 的竞争转化为友爱。尽管排名竞争激烈,但颁奖 礼几乎能吸引所有厨师的参与,他们年复一年地

“The ranking is more of a device that attracts attention – people love a list,” he says. “It creates excitement on the night, but those chefs and restaurateurs who’ve been around for a while understand that whether you’re 25 or 35 doesn’t matter. Being part of the community and the friendships they make matter more.”

When asked about the legacy of 50 Best’s first decades, Drew doesn’t hesitate: “It’s the community. People are traveling to different parts of the world, wanting to discover new cuisines in a deeper way. That can only be a positive thing.”

In a world increasingly influenced by artificial intelligence and aggregation, Drew remains committed to human expertise and experience. “We are expert-curated, and that’s a kind of USP of what we do,” he insists. “The human experience remains supremely important – perhaps more important than ever.”

By the time our conversation wraps up, it has become apparent that Drew himself exemplifies the storytelling prowess he celebrates in chefs. By creating not just lists but narratives, he and his team have transformed restaurant rankings from competition into cultural conversation, an exchange that continues to reshape how we understand food, hospitality, and our shared human experience around the table.

带着团队回归。William 将此归功于无论排名如何, 他们都平等地为每位得奖者欢呼祝贺。

他解释:「排名更像是用来吸引注意力的 人们都喜欢排行榜。它营造了兴奋的氛围,但各 位厨师和餐厅经营者明白,无论第 25 名还是第 35 名都不重要,重要的是成为这个社群的一部分, 以及他们建立的友谊。」

当被问及「50 最佳」首个十年积累的宝物时, William 毫不犹豫地回答:「是社群。消费者为美 食而旅行,渴望以更深层次的方式发现新美食。 这是一件积极的事情。」

在日益受人工智能和聚合算法影响的当下, William 仍相信人类的专业知识和经验。他说:「我 们是由专家策划的,这是我们的独特卖点。人类 的体验仍然至关重要 或许比以往任何时候都 更重要。」

随着交谈,William 本人体现了他所赞颂的厨 师们的叙事才能。通过精心策划榜单和叙事,他 和团队将餐厅排名从竞争转变为文化对话,并持 续重塑着我们对美食、餐饮服务以及餐桌上的体 验的理解。

百百百百百

THIS YEAR’S LIST OF ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS DEMONSTRATES ONCE AGAIN

TOPPING

HONORING THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME of the continent’s chefs, pastry chefs, and sommeliers, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 awards took place in Seoul on March 25. This year’s announcement ceremony, held in the South Korean capital for the second year in a row, was particularly spirited, with new friends and old enjoying the chance to celebrate the thirteenth edition of the annual event. Claiming the No. 1 spot, along with the title of The Best Restaurant in Asia 2025, was Gaggan in Bangkok.

2025 年 3 月 25 日,「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」颁奖

典礼在首尔举行,向亚洲顶尖主厨、甜点师和 侍酒师致敬。这是韩国首都连续第二年举办颁 奖典礼,新朋旧友欢聚一堂,共同庆祝第十三 届榜单发布。曼谷的 Gaggan 荣登榜首,并成 为 2025 年「亚洲最佳餐厅」。

Restaurants from sixteen cities across Asia made it onto this year’s roster. The biggest rivalry of the night was between Tokyo and Bangkok, with the two cities running neck and neck at nine restaurants each. Perennially popular dining meccas Hong Kong and Singapore won seven rankings each, and Shanghai and the host city came in at four apiece.

The awards continue to showcase an increasing diversity of locations, with solo winners from Macau, Manila, Fukuoka and Osaka in Japan, Jakarta, Mumbai and New Delhi in India, Taipei and Taichung in Taiwan, and, for the first time, Beijing.

Across the region, chefs are redefining traditional cuisines by

今年共有十六个亚洲城市的 餐厅入围。东京和曼谷的佳绩平 分秋色,各有九家餐厅上榜。而

素来备受食客喜爱的美食之都香港和新加坡各 有七家餐厅挤身榜单,上海和东道主城市首尔 则各有四家餐厅上榜。

榜单的地理多样性持续增强,澳门、马尼 拉、福冈、大阪、雅加达、孟买、新德里、台北、 台中等城市均有代表入选,更有北京餐厅首次 上榜。

在亚洲各地,主厨们正透过平衡传统与创 新,重新定义传统美食。曼谷的 Nusara (第

THAT THE REGION’S DINING LANDSCAPE RANKS AMONG THE WORLD’S MOST EXCITING.

ASIA

balancing heritage with innovation. Restaurants like Bangkok’s Nusara (No. 6) and Le Du (formerly No. 1, currently No. 20), as well as Masque in Mumbai (No. 19), Onjium in Seoul (No. 10), and Toyo Eatery in Manila (No. 42) showcase local ingredients and traditional dishes but present them with a contemporary sensibility.

Theatricality makes a return this year, most notably at Gaggan, where dining involves pyrotechnics, loud music, storytelling, and audience participation. At Potong (No. 13), led by chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij (who was last year’s Asia’s Best Female Chef and is this year’s World’s Best Female Chef), a miniature street stall trolley plays music, and at Labyrinth in Singapore (No. 37), guests shave their own ice for desserts served tableside.

Sustainability is a growing concern for many of the region’s restaurants, with chefs looking to both wisdom of the past and cutting-edge approaches to reduce their impact on the planet. From sourcing produce from local, small-scale farmers to promoting staff wellness, chefs are increasingly recognizing the need to support communities inside and outside the restaurant walls.

6 位)和 Le Du(曾夺榜首,现居第 20 位)、孟 买的 Masque(第 19 位)、首尔的 Onjium(第 10 位),以及马尼拉的 Toyo Eatery(第 42 位) 等餐厅,均以当地食材和传统菜肴为特色,但 以现代感十足的方式呈现。

今年,餐饮剧场元素再度回归,最引人注 目的当属 Gaggan——用餐体验融合了烟火表演、 喧嚣音乐、故事敍述和食客互动。在由主厨 Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij(去年摘得「亚 洲最佳女厨师」,今年更荣膺「世界最佳女厨师」) 掌舵的 Potong(第 13 位)里,一辆迷你街头小 吃推车会播放音乐;而在新加坡的 Labyrinth(第 37 位)里,宾客们可以亲自刨冰制作甜点。 可持续发展理念日益深入人心。厨师们借 鉴过去的智慧,又采用前沿方法,以减少对地 球的影响。从采购当地小农的农产品到关注员 工福祉,厨师们越发重视支持餐厅内外社区的 重要性。

GAGGAN

THIS FULL-THROTTLE, immersive fourteen-seater by Gaggan Anand blazed into the top position this year, earning the title of The Best Restaurant in Asia for a record fifth time, first winning it in 2015.

“I didn’t expect coming back again,” says Anand. “It’s an unpredictable list, but to come back gives me confidence. What we’re doing as a restaurant is very radical. The only secret is to stick to what you believe and keep evolving. And if the world loves it, we’re happy.”

Gaggan blends progressive Indian cuisine with influences from Japan, France, and Thailand. His menu of more than twenty courses, with an artisanal wine pairing, unfolds like a performance, with theatrical lighting, pounding music, and a flame torch putting the final touch to a dish in a pitchblack room. In curse-laden storytelling that covers topics ranging from the food system to rock ’n’ roll, diners are cajoled into licking plates, eating vegetarian “rat’s brain,” and taking part in quizzes.

“We take people away from today’s ‘fine dining’ and bring them to food, entertainment, music, and my character,” says Anand. “I’m doing what I’m doing, and this award shows that what we’re doing is not wrong.”

由 Gaggan Anand 打造的十四座沉浸式剧场餐厅,今年一 跃再登榜首,第五次问鼎「亚洲最佳餐厅」,首次获奖是在 2015 年。

Gaggan 表示:「重返榜首让我感到意外。这份榜单充满 变数,但再次回到榜首让我信心倍增。我们作为一家餐厅, 所做的事情很具颠覆性。唯一的秘诀就是坚持自己的信念, 并不断进化。如果大家喜欢它,我们就很开心。」

Gaggan 将现代印度美食与日本、法国和泰国的风味融 合。二十多道菜的菜单搭配美酒,而剧场灯光、激昂音乐、 黑暗中的火焰表演为菜式画上点睛之笔,宛如一场表演。在 带有脏话的故事敍述中,话题从食品体系到摇滚乐应有尽有, 食客们被哄骗着舔盘子、吃素食「老鼠脑」,并参与问答竞 猜游戏。

Gaggan 说:「我们打破当下『精致餐饮』的桎梏,带他 们领略美食、娱乐、音乐和我的个性。我在做自己想做的事 情,这个奖项表明我们没走错路。」

THE CHAIRMAN | 大班楼

HONG

RESTAURATEUR DANNY YIP, who last year won the prestigious Icon Award for his contribution to revealing the essence of authentic Cantonese cuisine, travels every month to villages across Hong Kong and southern China to hunt out hidden ingredients – from small river crabs to twenty-year-pickled lemons – that he features in his creative dishes. Opened fifteen years ago, The Chairman remains a frontrunner in local sourcing and ingredient-focused Chinese cuisine.

“We’ve always used as many local Hong Kong ingredients as possible, including local chickens, pigs, vegetables, fruits like pomelo, and whatever comes in from the fishing boats overnight,” says Yip. “These all have distinctive flavors, and we want to showcase and preserve them.”

In 2021, The Chairman was the first Chinese restaurant to place No. 1 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list and to break into the top ten among The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.

Yip moved The Chairman to its new address in Hong Kong’s Central in 2022, styling the dining room with plenty of plants and bookshelves to give the feeling of eating comfortably at home. The culinary approach is the same, however, and signature favorites like steamed crab with Huadiao wine remain on the menu.

去年因展现地道粤菜精髓而荣获「标志人 物奖」的叶一南,每月都会前往香港和华 南各地的乡村,搜寻隐秘食材 —— 从小河 蟹到二十年陈年柠檬 —— 这些食材都会出 现在他的创意菜式中。开业已十五年的大 班楼,至今仍是本地食材采购和以食材为 中心的中餐领域的佼佼者。

叶一南表示:「我们一直尽可能使用 香港本地食材,包括本地鸡、猪、蔬菜、 水果(如柚子),以及渔船夜捕的食材。 我们希望展示并保留这些独特风味。」

2021 年,大班楼成为首家在「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」榜单上登顶,并跻身「世 界 50 最佳餐厅」榜单前十名的中餐厅。

2022 年,大班楼迁至香港中环的新 址,餐厅内摆满了绿植和书架,营造出 在家舒适用餐的氛围。然而,烹饪方法 依然如故,招牌菜式如鸡油花雕蒸大花 蟹仍保留在菜单上。

Chefs’ Choice Award

3

WING 永

WING, chef-owner Vicky Cheng’s elegant fine-dining restaurant, keeps going from strength to strength. Not only did the restaurant, known for its modern takes on classics from the eight great cuisines of China, come in at No. 3 this year but Cheng himself took home the respected Inedit Damm Chefs’ Choice Award 2025.

“Ascending in rank is always a wonderful feeling,” he says, “but I also feel perhaps even more blessed to have been honored with the Chefs’ Choice Award, voted on by my peers. Knowing that I have the support of my chef friends and industry colleagues who believe in me – it’s a great position to be in.”

Wing also triumphed at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 awards held in Las Vegas last June, when it swooped into twentieth place and picked up the Highest New Entry Award.

Cheng, who grew up in Canada, trained in the French culinary tradition. A decade ago, he returned to Hong Kong, the city of his birth, and opened Vea, where he features Chinese ingredients in French-inspired dishes. With a twenty-year background in French fine dining, he never expected to open a Chinese restaurant, but, after returning to his roots, he taught himself how to

master the Chinese repertoire. “We should continually strive for excellence,” he says. “No matter how good we are, we must never stay still.”

During the pandemic, he opened Wing, which is Cheng’s Chinese name and represents hope and perseverance. Guests there are welcomed with a seasonal tea, which in spring may be a corn and sugar cane infusion to celebrate the rising temperatures and the “awakening of the insects.”

Diners then move through ten or so beautifully presented courses, including sumptuous signatures like fragrant Chilli Alaskan King Crab with Crispy Cheung Fun, stunning Golden Crystal Egg with Chilli Oyster with its glossy and transparent egg white, Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chilli and Bull Kelp, and Baby Pigeon Glazed with Sugar Cane.

His menus invariably also include what Cheng describes as his favorite ingredient, fish maw. “I love everything about

it,” he says. His Abalone Sauce Fish Maw Rice takes about five days to make, including steaming the aged, dried maw, steeping it in cold and then hot water, refrigerating it, and repeating the process. Once pliable, it is braised in abalone sauce. The fish maw rests on short-grain rice with yellow fungus from China’s Yunnan province.

Courses are paired with wines sourced from around the world. The beverage list features an impressive selection of Champagnes, particularly vintage Krug, plus Chinese wines, baijiu, and sake.

Cheng credits constant innovation and revisiting of classics, along with making guests the top priority, as the secret to Wing’s success. “We always keep track of how many times our patrons have visited,” he says, “and we train our staff to ensure that each return feels like coming home, with new experiences, menus, and dishes.”

由总厨兼老板郑永麒打造的优雅精致餐饮餐厅永正日益强 大,知名度不断提升。今年,这家以现代手法演绎中国八大 菜系经典菜式的餐厅不仅位列第三,郑永麒本人还荣获了 2025 年「Inedit Damm 厨师之选奖」。

郑永麒表示:「排名上升固然令人欣喜,但能获得由同 行投票选出的『厨师之选奖』,让我更加感恩。知道有相信 我的厨师朋友和行业同事的支持,是一种很棒的感觉。」

去年 6 月在拉斯维加斯举行的 2024 年「世界 50 最佳 餐厅」颁奖典礼上,永也大放异彩,一举跃升至第 20 位, 并获得「最佳新上榜餐厅奖」。

在加拿大长大的郑永麒曾研习法餐。十年前,他回到 出生地香港,开设了 Vea,并将中国食材融入灵感源自法餐 的菜式中。有着二十年法国精致餐饮背景的他,从未想过会 开设一家中餐厅,但回归本源后,他自学掌握了中国菜系的 精髓。他说:「我们应该不断追求卓越,无论我们做得多好, 都不能停滞不前。」

疫情期间,郑永麒开设了永(取自他的名字,寓意希望 和毅力)。一杯时令茶是迎宾之礼,春天可能是玉米和蔗汁 混合的茶饮,以呼应气温回升和「惊蛰」。随后,宾客们会 品尝到约十道精美的菜式,包括招牌菜如香辣阿拉斯加皇帝 蟹配煎肠粉、香辣日本蚝伴自制黄金皮蛋、萤火鱿配云南皱 皮椒及海茸,以及烟熏蔗汁乳鸽等。

菜单上总少不了他最喜欢的食材 花胶。他表示:「我 喜欢它的一切。」他的鲍汁花胶饭需耗时五天炮制,包括蒸 制陈年花胶、将其浸泡在冷热水中、冷藏并重复这一过程。

花胶变软后,再用鲍汁炖煮,并搭配短粒米和云南黄耳食用。

菜式会搭配来自世界各地的葡萄酒。酒单上令人印象深 刻的香槟选择众多,尤其是 Krug 香槟。此外还有中国葡萄酒、 白酒和清酒。

郑永麒将持续创新、回顾经典,以及将宾客放在首位视 为成功的秘诀。他说:「我们会记录客人来访的次数,并培训 员工确保每次回访都像回家一样,带来新的体验、菜单和菜式。」

4 SÉZANNE

NAMED THE BEST RESTAURANT IN ASIA 2024, Sézanne serves contemporary French food made with exceptional Japanese ingredients. For Daniel Calvert, the ferociously talented chef behind this three-Michelin-star restaurant, maintaining excellence is all about training.

“The team I trained then trains the next team,” he says, “and as long as everyone is treating the restaurant like it’s their own and training everybody to a high standard then that’s the way it works. Of course I have to stay here and align everything – it’s like two trains, one on the straight track and the other one slightly to the left, and you’ve got to keep realigning it.”

TOKYO, JAPAN I 日本東京

2024 年「亚洲最佳餐厅」得主 Sézanne 提供 以优质日本食材制作的现代法式美食。对于这 家米其林三星餐厅背后才华横溢的行政主厨 Daniel Calvert 来说,保持卓越的关键在于传承。 他表示:「我培训的团队会继续培训下一 个团队,只要每个人都把餐厅当成自己的,并 以高标准培训每个人,那么这种方式就能奏效。 当然,我必须留在这里并协调一切 —— 就像两 列火车,一列在直道上行驶,另一列稍微偏左, 你必须不断调整。」

MINGLES

CHEF MINGOO KANG began his career in the Western culinary tradition, working around the world in such top restaurants as three-Michelin-star Martín Berasategui in Spain.

Then he immersed himself in his heritage by training with Buddhist monk Jeong Kwan and the “godmother” of Korean cooking, Cho Hee-sook. At Mingles, Kang blends European cooking with traditional Korean cuisine, known as hansik, including the fermented soybean sauces, known as jang, that are its cornerstone.

“I want to expand the boundaries of Korean food but keep the essence of Korean flavors by respecting the jang,” he says. “Chefs need to appeal to a younger audience, but it’s important that they respect tradition and culture.”

Jang even makes it into Kang’s signature sweet, Jang Trio, which includes the three most important condiments in the Korean culinary lexicon in a dessert of doenjang crème brulée, ganjangmarinated pecans, gochujang, vanilla ice cream, and whisky foam.

主厨姜珉求的职业生涯始于西方烹饪传统, 并曾于西班牙米其林三星餐厅 Martín Berasategui 等世界顶级餐厅工作。

随后,他通过与静观师太和韩国烹 饪「教母」赵希淑一起学习,深入了解 了自己国家的传统。在 Mingles,姜珉 求将欧洲烹饪与韩食精髓融合,包括 发酵大豆酱(即酱)这一基石。他说: 「我希望通过尊重『酱』来扩大韩国美 食的边界,同时保持韩国风味的精华。

厨师需要吸引年轻食客,但尊重传统 和文化也很重要。」

酱甚至被融入了招牌甜点「酱味 三重奏」中,这道甜点包括了韩国烹饪 中三种最重要的调味料:豆酱风味的焦 糖炖蛋、酱油风味的焦糖核桃、辣椒酱调 味的米饼,以及香草冰淇淋和威士忌泡沫。

SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA I 韓國首爾

CHEF TAM’S SEASONS

IN AN IMPRESSIVE ASCENT, opulent Cantonese restaurant Chef Tam’s Seasons at Macau’s Wynn Palace leapt forty spots to ninth position. Chef Tam Kwok Fung has more than thirty years of experience, including stints in China, Thailand, and Hong Kong, and has cooked for some of the world’s top dignitaries and members of the Thai, Japanese, and Nepalese royal families.

“I’m deeply humbled and grateful that Chef Tam’s Seasons is helping to put Macau’s vibrant culinary scene on the world map,” he says. “The jump in our ranking is a reflection of our team’s dedication and passion. Our success stems from our commitment to continual learning and adaptation, especially when the gastronomic world is changing so rapidly. I have never stopped learning, and the same goes for my team – they’re just as motivated as I am and always stay inspired.”

Tam changes his menu every fifteen days in sync with the twenty-four solar periods in the Chinese calendar, an ancient system of knowledge based on the sun’s position, seasonal changes, and cyclical weather conditions, that informs traditional farming.

“In Cantonese cuisine, seasonal ingredients play a vital role,” says Tam, “and I find it fascinating to interpret these traditions through the lens of seasonal cooking, expressing the idea of eating in harmony with the seasons in a meaningful way.”

Tam visits local markets five times a week to learn from stallholders what is available on a daily basis. In the Cantonese approach, cooking methods also change seasonally. Warmer summer weather calls for lighter fare with more vegetables like gourds that help cool the body. In autumn and winter, when people are said to crave richer flavors, Tam incorporates more braised dishes and uses heartier ingredients. For example, in autumn, the old-school snack of gwo zaa, or deep-fried egg custard, bursts with the taste of seasonal hairy crab.

DAVID HARTUNG

Tam’s focus on seasonality is also connected to sustainability. He and his team study market trends and the lifestyles and preferences of diners of different age groups, which helps them tailor their dishes and menus. He has found that diners are increasingly focused on health over extravagant ingredients, and on lessening the negative impacts on the environment.

“By celebrating seasonal ingredients,” he says, “we support ecological balance and align our practices with natural agricultural cycles. This approach not only honors our cultural and culinary traditions but also allows guests to enjoy food at its peak freshness and nutritional value. It provides them with a diverse and authentic dining experience that reflects the changing seasons.”

Being so seasonally focused allows for constant evolution. “My team and I continually strive for excellence and recognize that there’s always room for improvement,” he says. “That’s why we’ve always maintained a lifelong learning mentality.”

澳门永利皇宫的奢华粤菜餐厅谭卉成绩骄人,跃升 40 位至 第 9 位。行政总厨谭国锋拥有超过三十年经验,曾在中国、 泰国和香港工作,并为多位世界顶级政要及泰国、日本和尼 泊尔皇室成员烹饪佳肴。

谭师傅说:「谭卉让澳门充满活力的美食版图走向世界 舞台,我深感荣幸和感激。我们排名的跃升是团队的奉献精 神和热情的体现。我们的成功源于对持续学习和适应的追求, 尤其是在美食世界瞬息万变的今天。我从未停下学习的脚步, 我的团队也是如此 —— 他们和我一样充满动力,总是保持对 创作的热忱。」

谭师傅会根据中国农历的二十四节气,每十五天更换一 次菜单。二十四节气是中国古代一套基于太阳位置、季节更 替和周期性天气变化的知识体系,对传统农耕有着重要的指 导意义。谭师傅说:「粤菜讲究『不时不食』。通过时令烹饪 的角度来诠释这些传统,以一种有意义的方式表达顺应时节 而食的理念,我觉得十分有趣。」

谭师傅每周会去当地市场五次,了解食材供应情况。在

粤菜中,烹饪方法也会随季节改变。夏季天气炎热,需要更 清淡的菜肴,搭配丝瓜等有助于消暑的蔬菜。在秋冬季节, 据说人们会更渴望浓郁的味道,谭师傅会加入更多炖菜,并 使用更丰富的食材。例如,在秋季,传统的戈渣小吃会融入 当季毛蟹的鲜美滋味。

谭师傅对时令性的关注也与可持续理念紧密相连。他和 团队会研究市场趋势及不同年龄段食客的生活方式和偏好, 以定制菜式和菜单。他发现食客们越来越注重健康,而非奢 华的食材,并希望减少对环境的负面影响。

他表示:「我们通过选用时令食材来支持生态平衡,并 使我们的做法与自然农业周期保持一致。这种方法不仅尊重 我们的文化和烹饪传统,还让宾客能够享受到食材最新鲜、 最具营养价值的时刻。这为他们提供了多样化、地道的用餐 体验,充分反映了季节的更迭。」

对时令性的高度关注使餐厅不断推陈出新。他说:「我 和团队始终追求卓越,深知总有改进的空间。因此,我们一 直保持着终身学习的心态。」

Highest New Entry

最佳新上榜餐厅奖

EATANIC GARDEN

SEOUL, SOUTH KOREA I 韓國首爾

CHEF SON JONG-WON’S EATANIC GARDEN, overlooking Seoul from the thirty-sixth floor of Josun Palace Hotel, burst onto the list for the first time at No. 25.

There is no menu, only an illustrated guide to key ingredients, with a memory or reflection from someone on the Eatanic Garden team written on the back. “I want the guest to know that I’m not doing this by myself,” says Son.

Eatanic Garden’s Korean food with a creative spin puts the focus on fermentation and aging, offering inventive dishes like Hanwoo beef served three ways alongside fermented cauliflower and winter vegetables shaped like pristine snowflakes.

“Previously, I didn’t appreciate my culture as I do now,” says Son. “But I studied it, and the more I learned, the more I respect and love it. I think that’s what chefs should be doing – finding their roots, not just in food but in culture too.”

由主厨孙钟元打造的 Eatanic Garden 位于朝鲜皇宫豪华精选 酒店 36 楼,可俯瞰首尔全景,首次登榜便位列第 25 位。

这里没有菜单,只有一份主要食材的图文指南,背面写 着餐厅团队某位成员的记忆或感悟。孙钟元说:「我希望客 人知道,我并不是一个人在完成这些菜式。」

Eatanic Garden 的创意韩国料理以发酵和熟成工艺为重 点,推出如韩牛三吃等创新菜式,搭配发酵花椰菜和形似纯 净雪花的冬季时蔬。

他表示:「以前,我并不像现在这样欣赏自己的文化。 但当我深入研究了它,学得越多,我就越尊重和热爱它。我 认为这就是厨师应该做的 —— 找到自己的根,不仅在食物上, 也在文化上。」

The supremely talented chef behind Baan Tepa in Bangkok (No. 44) is known as much for her farm-driven food and her sustainability ethics, including a low-waste kitchen, as she is for her stunningly elegant dishes that reimagine Thai cuisine.

While Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam has worked in male-dominated kitchens, at one point, hers at Baan Tepa was staffed by an all-female cast of chefs. “I may be biased,” she says, “but to me, female chefs have a lighter touch and a focus on detail, and they’re more sensitive to other people. When you go into a gender-balanced kitchen, everyone is more at ease, and people express themselves more. There’s not less pressure but less unnecessary pressure.”

Her message to budding women chefs is buoyant: “This is the time – the acceptance level may not yet be equal, but if you want it badly enough, you can do it.”

Best Female Chef

最佳女厨师

CHUDAREE “TAM” DEBHAKAM

执掌曼谷 Baan Tepa(第 44 名)的主厨 Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam 不仅以她重构泰国料理的优雅美学 而闻名,还因她采用农场直供食材及其可持续发展理念 (包括打造一个低浪费的厨房)而备受赞誉。

虽然 Chudaree 曾在男性主导的厨房工作,但 Baan Tepa 一度拥有一支全由女性厨师组成的团队。她 说:「我可能有些偏心,但对我来说,女厨师的手法更 细腻,更注重细节,而且对他人更敏感。当厨房实现性 别平衡时,每个人都会更自在,也会更自由地表达自己。 压力并没有减少,但不必要的压力减少了。」

她对有志成为女厨师的女性传递出振奋人心的信 息:「现在是时候了 —— 接受程度可能还不平等,但如 果你足够渴望,你就能做到。」

Thai-born pâtissier Dej Kewkacha first studied math, then tourism, before launching Kacha Brothers with his siblings at the age of twenty-two. The company now runs more than fifty outlets, including Kyo Bar, Thailand’s first and only dessert bar serving a seasonal “omakase” menu.

Today, Kewkacha commands the pastry kitchen at Gaggan at Louis Vuitton (No. 31) in Bangkok. “I’ve known Gaggan for more than a decade,” he says, “and I’m very familiar with his cooking philosophy. My desserts, using French techniques on Thai ingredients, have a taste profile matched to chef Gaggan’s Indian flavors.

“I think the notion that pastry chefs play second fiddle may no longer be true. Leaving customers with a good last impression is so crucial.”

泰籍甜点师 Dej Kewkacha 最初学习的是数学,之后再攻 读旅游专业,直到 22 岁时与兄弟姐妹共同创立了 Kacha Brothers 公司。该公司现在运营着五十多家门店,包括 泰国首家也是唯一一家提供季节性「主厨发办」甜点套 餐的甜点吧 Kyo Bar。

如今,Dej 掌管着曼谷路易威登内的 Gaggan(第 31 位)的甜点厨房。他表示:「我认识 Gaggan 已经十多年 了,对他的烹饪理念非常熟悉。我的甜品采用法国技术 来处理泰国食材,其口味与 Gaggan 的印度风味相得益彰。

我认为甜点师只能担任配角的观念可能已经过时了。给 顾客留下美好的最后印象至关重要。」

Best Pastry Chef

最佳甜点师

DEJ KEWKACHA

Woodford Reserve Icon Award 2025

标志人物奖

MARGARITA FORÉS

THE MOST EMOTIONAL MOMENT at this year’s awards came with the bestowal of the Icon Award to the late Margarita Forés. The honor, which recognizes those who have made an outstanding contribution to the hospitality industry, recognized her transformative influence and her legacy of elevating Filipino cuisine.

In accepting the award on her behalf, Forés’s son, Amado, remarked, “My mom always said her life purpose was simple – to make the world more beautiful and delicious for others.”

Forés was selected Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016, became a Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy in 2018, and was named Ambassador for Gastronomic Tourism in 2019 by the United Nations.

Throughout her three decades in gastronomy, she was known for supporting local farmers, fishers, and artisans and for showcasing Philippine culinary heritage on the world stage through her restaurants, including Lusso.

She was also acclaimed for her innovative fusion of Italian and Filipino cuisines and for her restaurant chain CIBO , which introduced authentic Italian food to Filipino diners.

今年颁奖典礼上最令人动容的时刻,是向已故 的 Margarita Forés 颁发「标志人物奖」。这一 荣誉旨在表彰那些对餐饮业作出杰出贡献的人 士,认可了她为行业带来的变革性影响,以及 她在提升菲律宾美食地位方面留下的宝贵遗 产。

Margarita 的儿子 Amado 在代表她领奖 时表示:「我妈妈总是说,她的人生目标很简 单 —— 就是让世界变得更美丽、更美味。」

Margarita 于 2016 年当选「亚洲最佳女 厨师」,2018 年成为意大利之星勋章骑士,并 在 2019 年被联合国任命为美食旅游大使。 在她三十年的美食生涯中,她以支持当地 农民、渔民和工匠,以及通过她的餐厅(包括 Lusso)向世界展示菲律宾烹饪遗产而闻名。 此外,她还因将意大利和菲律宾美食创新 融合而受人颂赞,她创立的连锁餐厅 CIBO 也 为菲律宾食客引入正宗意大利美食。

POET OF FLAVOR

At Jin Sha, a culinary artist has been quietly shaping Hangzhou’s dining landscape for more than a decade.

Hazelnut duck liver mousse, spring onion pancakes, green apple

BY
CHEUNG
JOEY CHEANG • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake 杭州西子湖四季酒店一隅

NAMED CHEF OF THE YEAR 2022  by The Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, Jin Sha’s Senior Executive Chinese Chef Wang Yong has also won three Black Pearl diamonds and a Michelin star for the acclaimed Zhejiang-cuisine restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake.

Unfazed by such accolades, he remains focused instead on the essence and evolution of each of his carefully crafted dishes, creations that, like his culinary philosophy, may seem deceptively simple but are in fact profoundly nuanced.

Wang’s career has traced a steady course from a somewhat accidental entry into the profession to his current reputation as a guardian of Hangzhou cuisine. “From 1991 until now, I’ve never left this industry,” he says. Born to parents who were “sent-down youth,” he grew up in Jiangxi before returning to Shanghai with his family and eventually settling in Hangzhou fifteen years ago and forging a deep connection with the city’s food culture. Along the way, Shanghaibased chef Tony Lu of the Fu restaurant group became a pivotal influence that shaped his approach to cooking.

在杭州西子湖四季酒店金沙厅,一位低调的主厨 用美食陪伴了杭州人十多年。作为黑珍珠三钻、 米其林一星与黑珍珠年度最佳厨师的获得者,资 深中餐行政总厨王勇却对这些光环轻描淡写,始 终专注于每一道菜的本真与创新。

王勇从一位偶然入行的厨师,走到如今,被 誉为「杭帮菜守护者」。他回忆道:「从 1991 年 到现在,我一直未曾换过行业。」父母曾是知青, 他从小在江西长大,后随家人回到上海,最终在 十五年前落脚杭州,开启了与这座城市的饮食文 化的深度联结。在这个过程中,上海福系列本帮 菜大厨卢怿明成为他重要的启发者,深刻影响了 他的烹饪理念。

当被问及用哪一道菜比喻人生时,王勇选择 了红烧肉。这道金沙厅的招牌菜蕴含着他对烹饪 和生活的深刻理解。他解释:「猪肉从生坯到上桌, 要经过蒸制、定型、塑形,长时间炖煮,最终吸 足味道。这就像我的工作经历,最早出来时什么

Double-boiled white fungus syrup, lily bulb, osmanthus

When asked which dish best reflects his life story, Chef Wang chooses braised pork, a Jin Sha signature. “From raw ingredient to finished dish, the pork undergoes steaming, shaping, and slow braising to absorb flavors fully,” he says. “It’s like my own journey –starting as a blank slate, being shaped by experiences, and gradually becoming my best self.” The dish’s magic lies in its sweet-savory equilibrium, a lesson in balance that Chef Wang applies to his team as well: “I rarely overexplain. I prefer finding subtle ways to convey understanding.”

Jin Sha’s menu, blending Hangzhou traditions with contemporary touches, has been called “Song dynasty poetry on the palate.” His Mashed Broad Bean with Xiangchun, Soft-Boiled Egg, and Sea

都不是,经过多处打拼,慢慢塑造自我。」红烧肉 的精髓在于咸甜平衡 既不过分甜腻,也不过度 咸涩。这正如王勇处理菜品和管理团队的方式:「我 很少过度表达或解读,更喜欢找到一个委婉而让大 家理解的点。」

金沙厅的菜单被誉为「舌尖上的宋韵」,在保 留杭帮菜传统精髓的同时融入当代元素。以他的创 新作品「香椿蚕豆泥,海胆溏心蛋」为例,将江浙 常见的热菜改良成凉菜,用海胆提升甜味,蚕豆泥 调和,保留香椿的独特香气,赋予传统家常菜全新 形式。王勇说:「如果没有能力改变和驾驭,我就 忠于原味。但如果可以突破,我会用新手法呈现。」

Boiled river shrimp, preserved vegetable, tomato 菜脯头番茄煮河虾

Steamed glutinous rice ball, preserved vegetable, pork 梅菜鲜肉粢毛团

Urchin, for example, is a classic Jiangzhe dish reimagined as a delightful chilled delicacy. Heightened with sea urchin’s sweetness and mellowed by broad-bean purée, it preserves the distinct aroma of toon sprouts. “If I can’t improve a dish, I stay true to its roots,” says the chef. “But where possible, I reinterpret.”

The menu also deeply respects Jiangnan’s time-honored seasonal eating philosophy. In spring, shepherd’s purse, ma lan tou greens, and river snails star as regional treasures, and before the East China Sea fishing moratorium, oily fish lent themselves to featured seafood dishes. Even summer’s limited harvest inspires creativity – defying the “light flavors only” convention. “Overly bland food kills the appetite,” says Wang. “Balanced boldness, with acidity or spice, can be more refreshing in heat.”

金沙厅的菜单体现了江南「不时不食」的 饮食哲学。春季时节,乡村荠菜、马兰头、河 螺是重要的江南风物。东海封海前,鱼类油性 丰富,适合制作各式小海鲜。即使在物产相对 单一的夏季,王勇也能从瓜果中挖掘丰富可能。

他打破「夏日清淡」的传统观念:「过于清淡 反而影响食欲,适当的重口味,搭配酸辣开胃, 反而更适合夏天。」

面对杭帮菜的推广责任,王勇选择顺势而 为,不做说教。他说:「我们只是呈现菜品本 来的状态,让食客在自然体验中感受其魅力。」

对于获得的诸多荣誉,他始终保持着平和心态:

Senior Executive Chinese Chef Wang Yong
Steamed leopard coral grouper, chicken broth
Crispy chicken, taro, spicy salt, soy sauce

龙井炖奶

Although esteemed as an authority on Hangzhou cuisine, Chef Wang avoids preachiness: “We let dishes speak for themselves – their charm unfolds naturally.” And of his honors, he’s characteristically grounded: “Recognition validates effort, but not everyone gets the platform to be seen.”

For many Hangzhou natives, Jin Sha has become part of life’s fabric. One guest, who first dined here in high school, returns religiously during visits home, retracing flavors tied to life milestones, from studying abroad to parenthood. “We’re not just a restaurant,” Chef Wang muses. “We’re a repository of memories, a culinary touchstone.”

Chef Wang’s restrained yet forward-looking approach, which is writing a new chapter in Hangzhou cuisine, ensures that its thousand-year legacy will continue to shine.

「荣誉是对付出的肯定,但并非人人都有合适 的平台被看见。」

十余年来,金沙厅已成为许多杭州人生 活的一部分。一位从高中时期就在此用餐的 客人,即使调往外地工作,每次回杭都要重 访旧地,品尝各式菜品。王勇感慨道:「金沙 厅不仅是一种陪伴,也承载着很多人的记忆。 从学生到为人父,从留学到归国,这里始终 是他们的味觉家园。」

在金沙厅,这位「西湖畔的味觉诗人」, 正用一道道佳肴书写着杭帮菜的当代篇章, 让这份宋韵悠长的烹饪艺术在新时代继续绽 放光彩。

Longjing tea crème brûlée

debrief, unwind, enjoy

After a busy night, three close colleagues at Aji sit down together to relax, share their thoughts, and savor a moment with The Macallan.

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY

AS THE FINAL GUESTS slip out of Aji –MGM COTAI ’s modern Asian bistronomy concept – the energy shifts. The dining room stills. In the open kitchen, the intensity of service gives way to a quieter rhythm.

Chef de Cuisine Pan Sihui steps out from the pass. The evening’s tasting menu – a blend of classical French technique and vibrant Asian flavors – has run its course. As the brilliant mind behind Aji’s first Michelin star, he creates dishes that reflect both childhood memories and his global culinary journey. Everyone on the team calls him Papa Pan. He joins Restaurant Manager Katrina Saulog – known affectionately as Mama Kat – at a curved banquette beneath Aji’s signature wave-like lighting. A quiet smile passes between them. The night is over, but the moment is just beginning.

MGM’s Assistant Director of Beverages Andy Tam arrives with a bottle of The Macallan. More than a meetup, this is shared ritual. “Some nights call for sherry warmth,” Andy says, pouring three measured drams. “Others, spice or smoke. But tonight feels classic.”

They raise their glasses. A soft clink. A quiet breath.

“That first sip – it marks the shift. You’re no longer thinking about timing or plates. You’re just here.

第一口入喉,便是角色转换的仪式。不用再思量上 菜时序或餐盘装饰,只是纯粹地活在当下。”

潘思荟

Restaurant Manager Katrina Saulog
Katrina Saulog

Assistant Director of Beverages Andy Tam 助理饮品总监谭颖恒

Pan: That first sip – it marks the shift. You’re no longer thinking about timing or plates. You’re just here.

Katrina: The pressure lifts. You start to feel the night, not just manage it.

Andy: Like whisky, service reveals itself in layers. You only see the whole picture afterward.

Aji’s approach echoes this philosophy. Pan’s cooking is about innovation, balance, and clarity – flavors that speak without shouting. The experience is designed, but never rigid. It leaves room for interpretation.

Pan: That’s why I like The Macallan. There’s control in the way it’s made. But also character. It doesn’t need to impress. It just holds.

Andy: Same as your menu. It respects technique, but it’s personal. It knows where it’s from.

Pan: And like a good dish, a good whisky doesn’t try too hard. It’s confident, not loud.

当最后一批客人悄然离席,雅吉 澳门美狮美高梅 中以亚洲料理酒馆为概念的餐厅 的氛围悄然转变。

喧嚣散去,大厅归于宁静,开放式厨房里紧绷的节奏 也化作了轻柔的余韵。

主厨潘思荟从出餐台后步出。夜晚的品鉴菜单融 合了经典法式技艺与灵动的亚洲风味,此刻已落下帷 幕。作为带领雅吉斩获米其林一星的核心人物,他的 每一道菜式既承载着童年记忆,又沉淀着环球厨艺之 旅的哲思。团队成员都亲切地称他「潘爸」。

他走向餐厅经理 Katrina Saulog—— 大家口中的 「Kat 妈」,并肩落座在雅吉标志性波浪灯饰下的弧形卡 座。两人相视一笑,此刻无声胜有声。夜色渐深,而 属于他们的「时光」才刚刚启幕。

美高梅助理饮品总监谭颖恒带着一瓶 The Macallan 威士忌翩然而至。这不是例行公事,而是团 队间心照不宣的习惯。「有些夜晚适合雪莉桶的温润」 谭颖恒说着斟出三份恰到好处的威士忌,「有些需要烟 熏或辛香的点缀。但今晚,应是经典的味道。」

他们举杯轻碰,脆响如珠落玉盘,又如一声轻叹。

“That’s why I like working with The Macallan. It gives you room to play, without losing structure.

我也因此喜欢The Macallan威士忌。

它给予创作者自由,却始终以结构为锚。”

Andy Tam 谭颖恒

The conversation flows easily. The room, now empty, feels lighter but still warm. The team’s connection – built through countless services – is casual, but close. As they sip, ideas for a new pairing menu with The Macallan begin to take shape, blending their shared creativity with the whisky’s timeless character.

Katrina: These moments matter. We come back to ourselves. We talk like friends, not roles.

Pan: It’s how we reset. How we remember what we’re doing this for.

Andy: And the whisky helps. It slows things down. Gives us space.

They sip again. The Macallan opens slowly, revealing notes of oak and dried fruit – no different from a dish revealing itself one ingredient at a time.

Pan: Pairing whisky isn’t easy. So many strong characters. But when it works, it really works.

Andy: That’s why I like working with The Macallan. It gives you room to play, without losing structure.

Pan: Same with cooking. You find the balance, you hold the line, and then you let it go.

The bottle sits between them. The moment isn’t about the drink – it’s about what the drink allows.

Katrina: It started informally. But now it’s something we look forward to. A small pause. A reward.

Andy: A good digestif doesn’t make a statement. It just finishes the night well.

Pan: Whether it’s whisky or cuisine, the goal is the same. Care, balance, and something worth remembering.

They raise their glasses once more. No fanfare. Just a shared understanding between people who care about what they do.

潘思荟:

第一口入喉,便是角色转换的仪式。不用再思量上菜时序或 餐盘装饰,只是纯粹地活在当下。

Katrina: 压力随之消散,才能感受这个夜晚,而不只是「管理」它。

谭颖恒:

就像威士忌,餐饮服务需顾及多方层面,事后才能看清全貌。

雅吉的理念恰好与此呼应。潘思荟的烹饪讲究创新、平衡与纯粹 风味无需喧哗,自能抵达人心。整个体验虽经精心设计,却绝不刻板, 总留有诠释的空间。

潘思荟:这也是我喜欢 The Macallan 的原因。他们以严苛工艺掌控 风骨,但仍保有鲜明个性。无需刻意惊艳,自有岁月沉淀的韵味。

谭颖恒:和你的菜单一样。尊重技法,而保有自我,且其来有自。

潘思荟:好菜如佳酿,从不刻意张扬。自信,又内敛。

对话自然流淌,空旷的餐厅因这份松弛而更显温暖。无数次服务铸就 的默契,让团队间的羁绊看似漫不经心,实则坚如磐石。在浅酌慢饮间, 与 The Macallan 搭配的新菜单创意开始逐渐成形,将集体的创造力 与威士忌隽永的特质巧妙融合。

Katrina: 这些时刻弥足珍贵。我们褪去「职位」的外衣,以「朋友」 的身份对话。

潘思荟:这是我们重启的仪式,提醒自己为何坚持。

谭颖恒:威士忌恰如其分地让时光慢下来,为我们留出呼吸的空间。

他们再次品味。The Macallan 威士忌在杯中徐徐舒展,橡木与干果的 香气层层绽放 如同一道佳肴,渐次呈现食材的本味。

潘思荟:威士忌配餐并不容易。两者皆个性鲜明,但若能相得益彰, 便是天作之合。

谭颖恒:我也因此喜欢 The Macallan 威士忌。它给予创作者自由, 却始终以结构为锚。

潘思荟:烹饪亦如是。守住平衡之基,再放手呈现。

酒瓶静立桌间。此刻的重点不在杯中物,而在于它所开启的对话。

Katrina: 这起初只是随兴之举,如今却成为了我们最期待的仪式,是 犒赏身心,也是片刻停驻。

谭颖恒:完美的餐后酒不必喧宾夺主,只为夜晚画上优雅句点。

潘思荟:无论是威士忌还是料理,追求始终如一:用心、平衡,以及 值得铭记的回忆。

三人再次举杯。此时没有浮夸的辞藻,只有专注和热忱在杯中流转。

Chef de Cuisine Pan Sihui

破界之味

breaking barriers

At Wing Lei Bar, Mark Lloyd’s innovative mixology bridges cultures, making the venue an ambassador for Macau’s emerging cocktail scene.

“SOME DRINKS just contain favorite flavors of mine,” says Head Mixologist Mark Lloyd of Wynn Palace Macau’s Wing Lei Bar. “The Yuenyueng is inspired by going to the cha chaan teng and having breakfast – taking something local and making it mine.” This approach has produced standouts like the technically accomplished Cola Cube and the playful Melon Ball, which Lloyd describes as a “disco drink.”

The signature menu highlights Lloyd’s creativity across four distinct categories, each with fan favorites. From “Classics,” the Sidecar emerges as a clear winner, revolutionizing this timeless cocktail with a combination of croissant-washed cognac, Cointreau, and yuzu honey syrup. The “Alternatini” section showcases Lloyd’s favored Yuenyueng, a cultural nod to Macau with pineapple rum, Mr Black, espresso, black tea, and pineapple syrup. Under “Sours,” the Melon Ball captivates with rum, Midori, falernum, lemon, and house-made Irn Bru orgeat. The “Stirred” category is anchored by the Cola Cube, a bourbon-based drink with Penja pepper and cola bitters that remarkably delivers the flavor of Coca-Cola without containing any cola.

「有些酒款只是装载着我钟爱的风味。」澳门永利皇宫永 利吧的首席调酒师 Mark Lloyd 这样描述他的创作理念。 「Yuenyueng(鸳鸯)的灵感源自茶餐厅的早餐 将 澳门日常生活的文化记忆转化为调酒语言。」这种理念 催生了以精湛技艺调制而成的 Cola Cube 与充满玩味的 Melon Ball,后者被 Mark 戏称为「Disco 饮品」。Mark 的调酒不仅是技艺的展现,更是一种文化表 达,赋予每一杯酒独特的故事和灵魂。

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Lloyd tours with these creations globally. “I travel with Yuenyueng because it’s the easy entrance to my world,” he says.

招牌酒单以四大类别展现 Mark 的创意 疆界。「经典风格」系列中,Sidecar 以可颂 洗干邑搭配君度橙酒与柚子蜂蜜糖浆,重 塑这款永恒经典;「马天尼酒」部分中主打 澳门风情的 Yuenyueng,混合菠萝朗姆酒、

Mr Black 咖啡利口酒、浓缩咖啡、红茶和菠萝糖浆; 「酸鸡尾酒」系列的 Melon Ball 用朗姆酒、蜜瓜利口酒、 法勒诺姆酒、柠檬和自制的 Irn Bru 杏仁糖浆赋予活泼 个性;而「搅拌酒」系列的 Cola Cube 不着一滴可乐, 仅凭 Penja 胡椒与可乐苦精便复刻出可乐风味。

Mark 带着这些创意作品走向世界。他解释:「我 总带着 Yuenyueng 到世界各地客席交流,它就像进入 我世界的通行证。人人都知道浓缩咖啡马天尼,借此讲 述澳门故事就水到渠成。」从新加坡、温哥华到即将启

Mark Lloyd

“Everyone knows an espresso martini, so it’s accessible while letting me explain Macau.” Having taken this message to Singapore and Vancouver – with Vietnam next – Lloyd notes, “The hardest thing is letting people know there’s more to Macau than just casinos.”

This cultural exchange works both ways. Wing Lei Bar has invited acclaimed teams for guest shifts, including Liverpool’s Bar Glue, whose community-focused, story-driven approach has inspired Lloyd’s team. “Bar Glue taught the team how to turn personal experiences into something that tells a story,” says Lloyd. Cross-collaborations with Wynn’s restaurants have produced innovative offerings like pigeon and char siu martinis for the menu at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant – Chef Tam’s Seasons.

Looking forward, Lloyd’s 2025 Culinary-inspired Cocktail Series will further blur the lines between food and drink with quarterly drink menu rotations showcasing different culinary approaches. Each cocktail will be paired with complementary small bites, breaking down traditional barriers between bar and kitchen.

With Asia’s 50 Best Bars on the horizon, Lloyd remains focused: “Making Wing Lei Bar a good bar, a fun bar, is number one for me. It’s about building a space that people talk about – if you go to Macau, you have to come here.”

程的越南,他始终在传递一个讯息:「最难的是让人们 知道,澳门不只有娱乐场,而是有更多值得专程来一 趟的理由。」他希望通过一杯酒,让更多人看到澳门的 多样性与魅力。

这种文化交流是双向的。永利吧曾邀请顶尖团队 进行客座调酒,其中包括知名的利物浦 Bar Glue,他 们以社区为中心、以故事为驱动的理念,深深啓发了 永利吧的团队。Mark 说:「Bar Glue 将个人经历酿成 杯中故事。」与此同时,与澳门永利皇宫食府的跨界合 作也催生了创新之作,例如为荣登「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」 榜单的谭卉设计的鸽子马天尼、叉烧马天尼等。不仅 将澳门美食文化融入鸡尾酒中,也成为吸引国际目光 的味觉名片。

展望 2025 年,Mark 的「味觉的跨界之旅:美食 灵感鸡尾酒系列」,将通过季度更迭的酒单进一步模糊 美馔与佳酿之间的界限。每款鸡尾酒都将搭配相得益 彰的小食,酒香与美味交织,共同打破酒吧与厨房的 传统藩篱,重塑饮食体验。

面对即将公布的「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」榜单, Mark 依然保持初心:「对我来说,让永利吧成为一家 有趣的酒吧是首要任务。关键是要打造一个大家津津 乐道的空间 如果你去澳门,就一定要来这里。」

Melon Ball Breakfast Gimlet Pandantini Away Colors (from left to right)

投币之后 幸福流动

coin-op happiness

Vender, crowned The Best Bar in Taiwan 2024, blends playfulness, creativity, and human connection into a cross-cultural, multisensory odyssey.

TUCKED AWAY IN TAICHUNG’S WEST DISTRICT, Vender greets guests with a retro vending machine. Guests insert a coin for a welcoming Singapore Sling and embark on a journey that combines innovation with childlike wonder.

In addition to its Best Bar in Taiwan title, Vender holds the rank of number 30 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024. It is the brainchild of Summer Chen, who, along with her partner, Darren Lim, opened the bar after returning from Singapore to her native Taiwan.

Their idea was to reference the popularity and ubiquity of vending machines by reimagining the conventional bar experience with a “vending happiness” philosophy. Besides Vender’s creative cocktail menu, just a twist of the capsule machine delivers a randomly crafted drink. This “game of fate” infuses each cocktail with delightful unpredictability and transforms guests from passive drinkers into active participants.

As a Singapore-inspired bar rooted in Taiwan, Vender enriches every design detail and cocktail concept with cross-cultural storytelling, reinventing tradition in a way that feels local and personal. For example, the Vender Sling, the bar’s signature take on the Singapore classic, retains the drink’s fruity, refreshing, slightly herbal flavor profile while thoughtfully replacing ingredients with ones found in both Singapore and Taiwan and that produce similar tasting notes. The result is a unique cultural bridge with a flavor twist that’s fresh, unexpected, and true to Vender’s identity.

The bar’s handcrafted cocktail menu, housed in a treasure box of twelve compartments that hold real ingredients, turns the selection process into a tactile exploration of sight, scent, and emotion. This ingenious artistry encapsulates Vender’s redefinition of cocktail culture into a harmony of technical mastery and joyous narrative experience.

With no flashy gimmicks and no empty theatrics, Vender trades in pure, back-to-basics delight. It’s a place where one drink can reignite the belief that happiness might be just a coin-drop away.

座落台中西区一隅,Vender 以一台老式贩卖机迎接来客,一枚 硬币、一杯新加坡司令,便开启一场结合文化、创意与童趣的 感官旅程。

Vender 于 2024 年荣获「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」第 30 名、同 时获选「台湾最佳酒吧」。它是 Summer Chen 从新加坡回到故 乡台湾后,与 Darren Lim 共同创办的创意结晶。

他们以贩卖机为主调,不仅颠覆传统酒吧体验,更以「贩 的是快乐」为核心,将互动与味觉巧妙交织。来到这里,除了 独特的创意酒单外,还能转动扭蛋贩卖机,即可获得一杯随机 创作的调酒。这份「命运的选择」让每杯酒都带着一点惊喜, 也让宾客从饮用者,成为参与者。

作为一家植根台湾的新加坡风情酒吧,Vender 从设计语言 到调酒概念,都融入了浓厚的跨文化叙事,并用本土化视角重 塑传统风味。招牌的「Vender 司令」保留了经典果香清爽与草 本基调,更选取新加坡与台湾共有的食材进行重构 —— 每一处 原料更迭都经过精密风味配比,最终呈现的风味令人耳目一新, 既保留传统,又带着 Vender 的独特灵魂。

最令人惊喜的,莫过于那个以十二宫格构成的手工酒单盒。 每一格皆藏有实体食材,让选择过程不再只是理性阅读,而是 一场视觉、嗅觉与情感的探索。这份细致与巧思,也正体现了 Vender 对调酒文化的重新定义 —— 不只是技艺,更是一场欢愉 且富含故事的体验。

Vender 不谈华丽,不追浮夸。它贩售的是一份回归初心的 朴实愉悦,一种让人愿意为了一杯酒,重新相信「选择」本身 也能充满幸福的提案。

MACAU HOSTS MORE LUXURY HOTELS than any other cityscape in the world, and almost all of these prestigious properties are located within spectacular casino complexes. So how does a Mandarin Oriental hotel, as part of a beloved global five-star brand, manage to stand out and maintain momentum while operating outside of Macau’s so-called “casino economy”?

Although Mandarin Oriental, Macau, is proudly celebrating its fifteenth anniversary this year, the brand, in fact, has had a presence in Macau for more than four decades. The first location was the property known today as Artyzen

Grand Lapa Macau, and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group also managed the Bela Vista, the much-loved (and greatly missed) eight-suite boutique hotel in a historic landmark building.

Mandarin is a brand close to the hearts of many who call Macau home, and especially its loyal staff. There’s a palpable emphasis on the holistic well-being of every member of the hotel’s team, reflected in the way colleagues talk of each other as family all on the same path – the pursuit of quiet excellence. The sense of community is reinforced by the staff’s impressive number of Long Service Awards, the

General Manager Franck Droin

fifteen

five-star years 东方雅韵 岁月鎏金

An anchor across generations, the Mandarin brand holds a special place in the hearts of Macau’s residents and visitors alike.

BY

recipients of which choose their own gift – a lovely silk scarf, perhaps –and then proudly affix a different-colored trademark Mandarin fan pin to their lapel, representing five years of service, or twenty, or longer.

Director of People & Culture Gloria Ma joined the team in 1994 as food and beverage secretary. Her father, who was himself employed in the Macau hotel industry, commented that if she wanted to enter this sector, there was only one choice: “Work for Mandarin!”

Ling Fung, who had never before stepped inside a five-star hotel, joined the team in 1995, as an order taker in housekeeping. Today she is executive assistant to the hotel manager, and, along with Ma, is part of the community engagement team. This group of colleagues participates in

澳门的奢华酒店密度冠绝全球,但几乎所有顶 级酒店都属于金碧辉煌的娱乐场综合体。作为 享誉世界的五星级酒店品牌,澳门文华东方酒 店如何能在「娱乐经济」以外独树一帜,并保 持蓬勃生机? 尽管澳门文华东方酒店今年正欢庆其十五 周年,实则这个品牌与澳门的缘分已逾四十载。

其前身是如今名为「澳门雅辰酒店」的物业, 文华东方酒店集团还曾管理过备受喜爱(也令 人深深怀念)的八间套房精品酒店「峰景酒店」 —— 这栋历史地标建筑见证了无数传奇。

对许多澳门人而言,尤其对于忠诚的员工 团队,文华东方是镌刻在情感深处的名字。酒 店强调员工的全方位福祉,同事们亲如家人般 的相处之道便是明证 —— 他们共同践行着「润 物细无声」的卓越追求。历年「长期服务奖」 的得主们多不胜数,他们可自选纪念品(或许 是条雅致丝巾),随后将不同色彩的标志性折 扇徽章别于襟前:五年、二十年,或者更久。 人才及文化总监马海珊于 1994 年以餐饮部秘 书身份加入,其父亲作为澳门酒店业前辈曾表 示:「若想入行,文华东方是唯一之选。」而从 未踏足五星级酒店的冯綉娴在 1995 年从房务 部接线员起步,如今已成为驻店经理行政助理。

她们共同带领员工关怀小组组织登山、探访长 者等多元活动,以打破职级壁垒,凝聚团队精 神。

酒店总经理方东宏履职虽仅两年,却是拥 有九年集团资历的老将。他着力推行可持续发 展举措:本地采购、停用一次性塑料制品、开 发水培蔬菜系统。

在澳门特有的喧嚣中,这家酒店始终保持 着从容不迫的气质:客人可安享草本茶饮、沉 浸式影音体验,或慢品由新加坡文华东方主厨 亲传秘方的叻沙。

213 间客房与套房的体量赋予澳门文华东 方温润如玉的品格:灯光柔和,乐声袅袅,絮 语浅浅。

这里也是不少澳门人婚宴寿庆的首选(更 有惊艳的定制蛋糕),许多带着孩子来享用下 午茶的父母,仍清晰记得自己儿时随长辈造访 初代文华东方的场景。

御苑餐厅以手作点心和融合葡国风味的东 方美馔营造商务午餐与家庭聚会的静谧空间; 御苑酒廊的 The Counter 是都市隐士的最爱, 而开放式大堂酒廊则被亲切称作「澳门客厅」。 在这座永不停歇的城市里,澳门文华东方 早已超越五星级酒店的存在 —— 她承载着整座 城市的挚爱,是当之无愧的濠江瑰宝。

Director of People & Culture

a diverse range of activities, from hiking outings to visiting elderly homes, that are designed to break down any hierarchical barriers and enhance the sense of team togetherness.

For General Manager Franck Droin, it’s this spirit that helps set the hotel apart. He joined the property two years ago, though he has been with Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group for nine years. In Macau, he puts an emphasis on sustainability initiatives, including local sourcing, the elimination of single-use plastics, and the development of a hydroponic system for growing vegetables.

In the midst of the madness that is sometimes Macau, another of the hotel’s outstanding features is that no one here is rushed. Guests are guaranteed a good night’s sleep, and they are free to relax over a cup of herbal tea, watch a television series through in-room entertainment, or enjoy a leisurely bowl of laksa made according to a recipe from the chefs at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore.

With just 213 guest rooms and suites, Mandarin

Oriental, Macau, is an intimate property that smiles and never shouts. The lighting is muted, the music gentle, and the conversation just a soft buzz.

The hotel is Macau’s go-to spot for weddings, banquets, and birthday gatherings (as well as extraordinary birthday cakes!). Parents who bring their children for an afternoon tea treat fondly recall going to (the original) Mandarin Oriental with their own parents. Vida Rica restaurant, specializing in homemade dim sum and Oriental favorites (and, in the very spirit of Macau, adding a touch of Portuguese flavor), provides a peaceful environment for business lunches or family reunions. The Counter, a discreet section of fashionable Vida Rica Bar, is a favorite hideaway, and the open-plan Lobby Lounge is affectionately known as “Macau’s living room.”

With the entire community as one big fan, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, is more than just another five-star property in this buzzing city – it’s no less than a local treasure.

Executive Assistant to the Hotel Manager Ling Fung

ACROSS ITALY, AROUND THE TABLE

Belmond, a leader in luxury hospitality, brings together four of its most talented chefs to share their stories in a celebration of Italy’s vibrant regional cuisines.

FROM THE SUN-DRENCHED AMALFI COAST to the rolling hills of Tuscany, from Venice’s storied lagoon to the rugged peaks of Sicily, Italy is a land of culinary traditions as rich and diverse as its landscapes. To celebrate this, Belmond brought four of its most inspired chefs to Mandala Club in Singapore to share not just their cuisines but their philosophies – all of them rooted in seasonality, tradition, and the Italian art of savoring life.

More than a showcase of flavors, for Tasting Kitchen (TK), it was an invitation into their world. In conversation, these chefs revealed how memory, place, and passion shape their cooking, how time itself – whether in slow travel, lingering meals, or heritage techniques – is an essential ingredient. Through their stories, they offer a taste of Italy far beyond the plate, an experience infused with history, connection, and the joy of villeggiatura

从阳光普照的阿玛菲海岸到托斯卡纳的连绵丘陵,从 威尼斯传奇般的潟湖到西西里崎岖的山峰,意大利这 片土地的烹饪传统如同其地貌般丰富多彩。为此,贝 梦德(Belmond)集团特邀四位拥有丰富灵感的厨师 齐聚新加坡曼陀罗俱乐部,除了分享他们的美食,更 传递烹饪哲学 —— 这一切都根植于时令、传统,以及 意大利人品味生活的艺术。

这不仅是一场风味展示,更是一次探索他们世界 的邀请。对话中,这些厨师揭示了记忆、地域与热情 如何塑造他们的烹饪之道,而时间本身 —— 无论是慢 旅行、悠长的餐宴,还是传承的技艺 —— 都是不可或 缺的要素。通过他们的故事,他们呈现的远不止盘中 美味,更是一种浸润着历史、联结与「意式度假(villeggiatura)」欢愉的意大利体验。

味觉诗篇

THE SOUL OF SICILY

SICILY IS A LAND OF STORIES, told not in words but in flavors, in the embrace of a shared meal, in the scent of sun-drenched tomatoes, in the perfume of the sea. When I step into the kitchen, I am not just a chef – I am a storyteller, a custodian of memories woven into every dish. In Singapore, far from the cliffs of Taormina, I bring with me the soul of my island, a place where tradition and evolution dance in perfect harmony.

Sicilian cuisine is a mosaic of influences, a legacy of the many civilizations that have touched our shores. Perhaps none have left as indelible a mark as the Arabs. They gifted us ingredients that are now inseparable from our identity – eggplants, citrus, almonds, saffron. More than that, they gave us methods, like the balance of sweet and sour, a culinary alchemy that lingers in our caponata, where the bite of vinegar kisses the warmth of sugar, expressing both flavor and history.

For me, caponata is not just a recipe – it is my childhood, my grandmother’s kitchen, the sound of oil sizzling as eggplants turn golden in the pan, the aroma of tomatoes and capers mingling in the warm air. It is the dish that reminds me where I come from, and when I serve it, I am not just feeding guests – I am sharing a piece of my past, inviting them to sit at my family’s table to taste not just Sicily but my Sicily.

At Otto Geleng, we celebrate the beauty of simplicity. One dish that embodies my philosophy is Risotto with Cuttlefish, Zucchini Leaves, and Crusco Pepper. It is a reimagining of a humble peasant recipe, with tender zucchini leaves, once a simple ingredient from my childhood, elevated in a refined risotto. This dish is my way of honoring Sicilian tradition while shaping it into something new – a conversation between rustic authenticity and modern craftsmanship.

To innovate is not to discard the past but to understand it so intimately that it can be reinterpreted with respect. My foundation is always the raw, honest beauty of Sicilian ingredients: tomatoes ripened under the Mediterranean sun, the delicate brininess of just-caught seafood, the creamy sweetness of ricotta. These make up my palette, my history, my connection to home. When I create, I begin with the familiar and then push forward, incorporating subtle surprises – an unexpected texture, a whisper of a new spice – never to overpower, but to enhance, to reveal something unseen within the familiar.

But a meal is not just about what’s on the plate – it’s

西西里是一座用风味,而非文字书写故事的岛屿 —— 在共享餐食 的氛围下,在阳光吻过的番茄气息中,在海浪咸香的氤氲间。当我 踏入厨房,我不只是厨师,更是故事的讲述者,是每道菜里编织记 忆的守护人。此刻远在陶尔米纳悬崖千里之外的新加坡,我随身携 带着这座岛屿的灵魂,而它正以传统与创新跳着完美的双人舞。

西西里菜是文明交融的马赛克,每个登陆过的民族都在我 们的海岸留下印记。阿拉伯人的影响尤为深远,他们馈赠的食材 早已成为我们的身份印记 —— 茄子、柑橘、杏仁、藏红花。更珍 贵的是他们带来的烹饪智慧,比如甜与酸的平衡艺术。这道名为 caponata 的酸甜茄子沙拉里,醋的锐利轻吻砂糖的温暖,跃动着 风味的炼金术,也沉淀着历史的回响。

于我而言,caponata 不仅是道菜,更是我的童年记忆。在祖 母的厨房里,茄子煎至金黄的滋滋声,番茄与刺山柑在暖空气中 交织的香气 这道菜提醒我来自哪里。每当呈上它,我不仅在 款待宾客,更在分享我的往昔,邀请他们坐上我家的餐桌,品尝 的不仅是西西里,更是属于我的西西里。

about how it is given and received. In Sicily, food is a shared ritual, a gesture of welcome to a table laden with generosity. Sicilians have a way of making you feel at home, whether in a small village trattoria or at a grand feast by the sea. Hospitality is a way of life offered in the warm greeting at the door, the laughter that fills the dining room, the way a meal is never rushed but savored, every bite a pause in time. I want guests to feel as if they are part of something more than a dining experience, to feel the embrace of Sicily itself – its generosity, its passion, its unspoken invitation to linger just a little longer.

This is the Sicily I bring to Singapore. Not just a menu, but a love letter to my homeland –one plate at a time.

在 Otto Geleng

餐厅,我们颂扬简约之美。代表我烹饪哲学的「墨鱼汁烩 饭配西葫芦叶与克鲁斯科辣椒」,正是对朴素农家菜的重新诠释。柔嫩的西葫芦 叶 —— 我儿时熟悉的平凡食材,在精致的烩饭中获得新生。这道菜是我致敬传 统的方式,同时赋予新意,宛如过去与现在、乡野本真与现代技艺的对话。

创新不是抛弃传统,而是深刻理解后带着尊重的重塑。我的创作根基永远 是西西里食材纯粹的美:地中海阳光下熟透的番茄,刚捕捞海鲜的咸鲜,瑞可塔 奶酪的乳脂甜香。它们是我的调色板,我的历史,我与故乡的联结。创作时,我 从熟悉的味道出发,再向前探索 —— 加入一抹出乎意料的质地,一缕新香料的 耳语 —— 从不喧宾夺主,只为唤醒熟悉味道里未被察觉的层次。

但一餐饭的意义远超盘中物,更在于如何给予与接收。西西里的饮食是共 享的仪式,是摆满佳肴的餐桌发出的欢迎。无论是乡村小馆还是海边盛宴,都总 能让人宾至如归。这种待客之道体现在进门时的问候、餐厅的笑声和永不匆忙的 用餐节奏上

每一口都是时间的休止符。我希望宾客得到的不仅是用餐体验, 更是西西里的拥抱:慷慨和热情,以及无声的「请多留片刻」的邀请。这就是我 带到新加坡的西西里。不只是一份菜单,而是一封写给家乡的情书 —— 一次一盘, 慢慢诉说。

土地絮语

ROOTED IN THE LAND

TUSCANY IS A WAY OF LIFE, with a rhythm dictated by the sun that ripens our tomatoes, the rain that nourishes our olive groves, the hands that work the soil. At Tosca, within the storied walls of Castello di Casole, each season whispers its own story, and we honor it by crafting dishes that celebrate the moment, the land, and the heritage of those who came before us.

To cook with the land is to surrender to its wisdom. Our gardens, the Orti del Castello, offer the freshest vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers along with a lesson in patience, respect, and gratitude. I invite our guests to walk these gardens, to feel the soil beneath their feet, to witness the cycle of life that nourishes their plate. There’s something profoundly humbling about this connection that transforms a meal from mere sustenance into a deeper experience.

Tuscany’s bounty is unparalleled, its terroir an endless source of inspiration. From its rolling vineyards to its sun-kissed olive groves, every ingredient tells a story of place. Pappa al pomodoro, a simple yet soulful soup of stale bread, ripe tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil, is a story that speaks of never wasting what can be transformed. I have reimagined it as a delicate cappellacci, a pasta that cradles the essence of this rustic dish within its folds. Tradition remains at its heart, but its form takes on modern elegance in a conversation between old ways and new interpretations.

I believe that simplicity is the highest form of sophistication. I work with only a few core ingredients in each dish, and every one plays its role with clarity. The challenge is in creating depth without unnecessary embellishment. It’s a pursuit of balance, of allowing flavors to speak their truth.

Some dishes carry the weight of centuries yet remain alive, evolving. Panzanella is a savory salad born from the resourcefulness of Tuscan farmers. Stale bread, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil become a dish greater than the sum of its parts. I reinterpret such classics with reverence, ensuring that their essence is preserved even as textures and presentations shift to suit contemporary palates. A small change, a refined technique, but never a departure from origins.

At Mandala Club in Singapore, I wish to transport our guests. I want them to close their eyes and feel the golden light of the countryside, hear the distant hum of cicadas, imagine the scent of fresh bread baking in a village forno. This is the Tuscany I bring, a land where food is laden with memory, where every meal is a celebration, where the simplest things – a piece of bread, a drizzle of oil, a sip of wine – hold the greatest meaning. My invitation is to taste, to pause, to experience the heart of Tuscany.

在托斯卡纳,生活自有其韵律 催熟番茄的艳 阳,滋润橄榄园的细雨,抚摩泥土的双手,都是它 的节拍器。在传奇古堡 Castello di Casole 石墙内的 Tosca 餐厅,每个季节都在低语它的故事,而我们 用致敬当下的菜肴来回应:致敬这片土地,致敬先 人的智慧。

与土地共烹,便是臣服于它的智慧。我们的菜 园 Orti del Castello 馈赠我们最新鲜的蔬果香草,也 教会我们耐心、尊重与感恩。我常邀请客人漫步园 中,感受土壤的温度,目睹滋养餐盘的生命循环。 这种联系让饮食超越果腹,升华为震撼心灵的体验。

托斯卡纳的丰饶无可比拟,它的风土是永恒的 灵感源泉。从葡萄园到橄榄林,每样食材都在诉说 地域的故事。番茄面包汤用剩面包、熟番茄、罗勒 和初榨橄榄油熬煮,讲述「物尽其用」的生活哲学。 我将它重新诠释为精致的帽子饺,保留传统精髓, 并以优雅的形态诠译现代风华。

我相信简约至上。我煮的每道菜都仅用几样核 心食材,让每种味道都清晰绽放。真正的挑战在于 不靠堆砌而营造深度,追求平衡,让本味发声。

有些菜肴承载着几个世纪的重量,并仍在进化。 Panzanella 这道沙拉由托斯卡纳农夫的巧思而来, 剩面包、番茄、洋葱和橄榄油碰撞出惊人美味。我 怀着敬畏重新演绎这些经典,在调整口感与摆盘时 始终守护其灵魂 —— 精进技艺,但永不背离本源。

在新加坡曼陀罗俱乐部,我想让宾客闭眼时就 能看见乡间的金色阳光,听见远处蝉鸣,想象村庄 面包窑里飘出的麦香。这就是我带来的托斯卡纳: 食物满载记忆,每餐都是庆典,最简单的一片面包、 一滴橄榄油、一口葡萄酒,都饱含深意。我的邀请 是:细品,驻足,感受托斯卡纳的心跳。

一味一世界

A TALE IN EVERY BITE

I BELIEVE THAT EVERY DISH, every ingredient, every technique holds within it a narrative. Mine began in Venice, where the essence of travel, exchange, and discovery is woven into the fabric of our food.

Working with Chef Massimiliano Alajmo taught me that ingredients are the foundation of great cuisine. He had a way of approaching food with childlike curiosity, constantly experimenting. I learned that to cook well you must respect the seasons, the land, and the subtleties of each ingredient.

When I moved from Massimiliano’s structured world to Massimo Bottura’s realm of boundless creativity, he gave me the terrifying yet exhilarating prospect of complete freedom. But in that space, I found my voice and learned that food is a way to bridge tradition and reinvention.

Venice has always been a crossroads of cultures, and my time in Morocco felt so natural because there I encountered spices – saffron, cinnamon, cumin, preserved citrus –that spoke in a language I already understood. Each one was an echo of my own city’s past, carried by merchants and sailors along the same routes that brought Venice its wealth of flavors. Today, these interrelated influences whisper through my dishes.

我深信每一道菜肴、每一种食材、每一项技法,都蕴藏着 独特的故事。我的故事始于威尼斯 —— 它将旅游、文化交 流与发现的精髓编织进食物的基因。

与主厨 Massimiliano Alajmo 共事的经历让我领悟到 食材是烹饪的基石。他总带着孩童般的好奇对待食物,不 断尝试。我学会了真正的烹饪需要敬畏四季、土地与每种 食材的微妙个性。

当我从 Massimiliano 制度严谨的厨房来到 Massimo Bottura 天马行空的世界时,他给予我全然自由的创作空 间,这令人惶恐又振奋。正是在这片天地里,我找到了自 己的烹饪语言,明白食物可以成为传统与革新的桥梁。

威尼斯自古是文明交汇处,我在摩洛哥的时光非常 自在,因为那里的藏红花、肉桂、孜然与腌渍柑橘等香料, 我都早已熟悉,它们犹如经由商船沿着昔日运送风味的航 线抵达我的砧板。如今,这些交织的文化影响仍在我的菜 肴中低语。

然而,一餐饭的意义并不止于盘中的美味。餐厅的灵 魂由其中人们的能量塑造。在我的团队里,我寻找那种让 宾客如沐春风的天然温度。高级餐饮应是放松、品味与神 游的邀约。在 Oro 餐厅,我们待客如归,让厨房与餐室奏 响毫不费力的和谐乐章。

当宾客落座,我希望他们尝到食材的出身,感知孕 育它的风土。比如一只生蚝,便是威尼斯海洋遗产的反映, 承载着大海永恒的馈赠。当食客品味的不仅是咸鲜更是故 事,体验便升华了。

A meal, though, is not just about what’s on the plate –it’s also about the experience surrounding it. A restaurant is shaped by the energy of the people that are part of it. In my team, I look for that spark – that natural warmth that makes a guest feel at ease. Fine dining should be an invitation to relax, to savor, to be transported. At Oro, we welcome our guests as if into our own home, creating an effortless harmony between kitchen and dining room.

在 Oro 用餐,是向愉悦臣服,是将食物视为通往更 深境界的门扉。一顿饭永远不该匆忙 —— 它该如威尼斯悠 长的午后般舒展,似贡多拉在运河中漂游,若黄昏轻抚屋 顶的金色暮光。

When a guest sits at my table, I want them to taste an ingredient’s provenance, the landscape from which it was born. An oyster, for instance, is a reflection of Venice’s maritime heritage, a symbol of the sea’s enduring gifts. When a diner tastes not just the salt but the story, the experience becomes something greater.

To dine at Oro is to surrender to pleasure, to experience food as a gateway to something more. A meal should never be rushed. It should unfold like a long Venetian afternoon, like a gondola drifting through quiet canals, like the golden light caressing the rooftops at dusk.

山海之味

FLAVORS OF LAND AND SEA

THE AMALFI COAST IS GOLDEN LIGHT over terraced lemon groves, the scent of salt on the wind, the hum of waves against the cliffs. It‘s a place where nature dictates what is to be cooked, savored, and shared. My cuisine – an effortless, instinctual expression of where I was raised – is born from this landscape.

The sea speaks first, offering its bounty of scampi, anchovies, and sea urchins. Then it’s the land with gifts of wild mushrooms, sun-ripe tomatoes, and the perfume of Amalfi lemons. My role is simply to bring them together and let them tell their own story. On some days, the wind carries a whiff of the sea deep into the hills, and on others, the breeze sharpens the aroma of mountain herbs. The winds and the seasons guide me, the dishes compose themselves, and nature is their true author.

But family and tradition also shape the spirit of my cooking. In Campania, food is a reason to gather, to linger, to share. Every dish I create is a celebration of connection. Fritto Misto, with its golden pieces of just-fried seafood, is tasted, debated, and enjoyed together. And then there’s Nu’Burdèll, which the server, in a moment of theatrical interaction, completes at table with a pour of hot pasta gently cooking an array of delicate seafood before the eyes of the diners.

Time is perhaps the most important ingredient of all. My dishes reflect the rhythm of la dolce vita, where pleasure is drawn from waiting, savoring, and experiencing without urgency. Campanian rice, for example, is a dish that requires patience. Each ingredient is added in layers and each step coaxes out deeper flavors until the final creaming brings everything together.

The beauty of Campania is in its diversity. In a single meal, you can taste the sea and the mountains, the sweetness of fruit and the depth of aged cheeses, the richness of olive oil and the brightness of citrus. When I name my ingredients, I tell the stories of the hands that nurtured them. The anchovies are Donatella’s, the olive oil is Marco’s from Cilento.

It is this sense of place that I bring to Singapore. At Mandala Club, I want guests to feel as if they are perched on a sun-drenched terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, their skin warm from the July sun, the scent of lemons heavy in the air. Because a meal is never just about food – it‘s also about memories, about savored moments, about time well spent.

阿玛菲海岸是梯田柠檬园上流淌的日光,是海风裹挟的 咸涩气息,是浪花拍打悬崖的低语。在这里,大自然决 定了人们烹饪、品味与分享什么。我的料理 —— 这种源 自成长记忆的本能表达 —— 便诞生于此。

海洋率先献上它的馈赠:海螯虾、鳀鱼与海胆。 然后是陆地的礼物:野生蘑菇、熟透的番茄与阿玛菲柠 檬的芬芳。我的角色只是将它们汇聚,任其诉说自己的 故事。有时海风将咸鲜送入深山,有时山风让草本香气 愈发清冽。季风与时节指引着我,菜肴自然成形,而大 自然才是它们真正的创作者。

但家族与传统同样塑造着我的烹饪灵魂。在坎帕 尼亚,食物是相聚、慢享与分享的理由。我创作的每道 菜都是一场联结的庆典:金黄酥脆的炸海鲜需要众人分 食评点;而鲜虾意面则像一场餐桌演出 —— 侍者将热面 倾入生猛海鲜中,让食客目睹余温将食材缓缓烹熟。

时间或许是最关键的配料。我的菜肴折射「美好 生活」的节奏:等待、品味与从容体验方能收获愉悦。

比如制作坎帕尼亚炖饭需要耐心,层次丰富的食材在慢 煮中释放风味,并在收汁时达至完美和谐。

坎帕尼亚的美妙在于它的丰富性。一餐之间,你 能尝到海洋与山峦、鲜果的甜美与陈年奶酪的醇厚、橄 榄油的丰润与柑橘的鲜亮。当我列举食材时,其实在讲 述培育者的故事:鳀鱼是 Donatella 捕获的,橄榄油则 来自奇伦托的 Marco。

我将这种「在地性」带到了新加坡。在曼陀罗俱 乐部,我想让宾客仿佛置身充满阳光、可欣赏第勒尼安 海的露台,七月的阳光熨烫着皮肤,空气中浮动着柠檬 的清香。因为一餐饭从来不只是食物 —— 更是记忆,是 值得玩味的时刻,是生命中的美好时光。

HEART OF LAOS

A candlelit deck by a jungle waterfall at Rosewood Luang Prabang invites guests into a world where nature and elegance entwine.
Waterfall Pool Villa

In the hush of early dawn, the ancient town of Luang Prabang stirs to life. Mist clings to jungle-covered hills and the sound of flowing water echoes through the valley. On the outskirts of town, Rosewood Luang Prabang lies tucked amid emerald foliage and cascading falls, a sanctuary of timeless charm. Here, the luxury of a world-class retreat lives in harmony with the authenticity of Lao tradition. Each morning, as golden sunlight filters through banyan trees, the resort awakens gently, moving to the unhurried rhythm of Luang Prabang itself. It’s a place where every element – from the flutter of silk curtains to the aroma of frangipani blossoms – tells a story of Laos.

WANDERING ALONG STONE PATHWAYS at Rosewood Luang Prabang feels like stepping into a living museum of Lao heritage.

The resort’s design, envisioned by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, blends French-colonial elegance with indigenous Lao art and craftsmanship. Tented villas perch on the hillside like explorer outposts, and riverside suites feature hand-carved woodwork and textiles woven by local artisans.

“Every detail here is done with purpose and holds significance for the community and the environment,” says Adrien Pons, the resort’s devoted general manager. His vision of cultural preservation is apparent everywhere. In the open-air Great House, he lifts a simple handwoven coaster and explains that it was crafted by hearing-impaired weavers at a nearby arts center. In support of local cottage industry, the menus and maps are printed on handmade saa paper, traditionally made from mulberry bark. Even the fragrant coffee beans brewed at breakfast are sourced from a Lao hill tribe cooperative.

晨光熹微,琅勃拉邦这座古城渐渐苏醒。薄雾萦绕在苍 翠山峦间,潺潺水声在山谷回荡。城郊的瑰丽酒店隐于 翡翠般的林幕与层叠瀑布之中,宛若永恒的避世之所。

这里,世界级的奢华度假体验与老挝传统本真和谐共生。

每日清晨,当阳光穿透菩提树梢,度假村便随着古城不 疾不徐的节奏温柔醒来 从丝绸帘幕的轻拂到鸡蛋花 的幽香,每一处细节都在诉说老挝的故事。

漫步于酒店的石径,犹如走进生动的老挝文化遗 产博物馆。著名建筑师 Bill Bensley 操刀设计,将法式 殖民风情与本土艺术匠心相融。山间的帐篷 别墅如同探险家营地,河畔套房则装点着当 地匠人手工雕刻的木艺与编织品。

酒店总经理 Adrien Pons 说:「这里的 每个细节都承载着对社区与环境的深意。」他的文化保 护理念无处不在:在开放式主楼,他拿起一张朴素的编 织杯垫解释道,这出自附近聋哑艺术家之手;为支持乡 村产业,菜单与地图均采用桑树皮手工纸印制;咖啡豆 也采购自老挝山地部落合作社。

Pons, who grew up amid the grand hotels of Paris, fell in love with Luang Prabang for its soulful character and UNESCOprotected heritage. “We want to create unique experiences for our guests,” he says, “experiences with an authentic sense of place, filled with discovery and connection.” Under his guidance, Rosewood Luang Prabang has become a guardian of tradition. The resort employs local villagers and works hand in hand with the community – from planting a thousand trees on the property to hosting workshops where Lao elders teach younger generations the nearly lost art of basket weaving. The result is a seamless blend of luxury and authenticity: guests bask in refined

在奢华酒店随处可见的巴黎长大的 Adrien,被琅 勃拉邦的灵韵与联合国世界文化遗产深深吸引。他表示: 「我们要为宾客创造充满在地真实感的独特体验。」在他 的引领下,酒店成为传统的守护者 员工与村民共同 协作,栽种千棵树木,也举办濒危竹编工艺传习课。最 终呈现的,是奢华与本真的完美融合:宾客在精致舒适 中沉浸时,老挝的灵魂正在每个角落被温柔留存。

晨光尚未到达山巅之际,已有员工轻叩别墅门, 以唤醒宾客开启神圣之旅。宾客身穿酒店提供的传统筒 裙与披肩,随宾客体验经理 Noi 驱车前往附近村落。天 色初晓间,赤足僧侣身披橘红僧袍缓步而行,村民跪坐 草席,将糯米饭与水果虔诚放入僧钵 这项名为「塔 巴特(tak bat)」的古老布施仪式中,瑰丽酒店的宾客

Tomato and Buffalo Ricotta

comfort while the spirit of Laos is preserved and celebrated in every corner.

Before the sun peeks over the mountains, a gentle knock on a villa door awakens guests for a sacred journey. Clad in traditional sinh skirts and shawls provided by the resort, they join Guest Experience Manager Noi on a short drive to a nearby village. There, as pale light blushes the sky, long lines of barefoot monks draped in bright saffron walk in meditative silence. In an ancient ritual known as tak bat, villagers kneel on woven mats to place sticky rice and fruit into the monks’ alms bowls. On this special morning, Rosewood guests kneel among them. Noi, a lifelong Luang Prabang resident, quietly guides them on proper offering etiquette – how to bow one’s head and offer food with both hands – as distant temple bells toll. “To share our traditions with visitors is an honor,” Noi whispers. “In moments like this, you don’t just observe Laos – you become a part of it.”

After the last monk has passed, Noi leads the guests into the village temple. Inside the cool, dim sanctuary, gilded Buddha

亦躬身其间。Noi

作为土生土长的琅勃拉邦人,在庙钟 悠悠间低声指导布施礼仪:如何双手奉食,如何垂首示 敬。他说:「能与客人分享传统是我们的荣幸。此刻你 不再只是在观察老挝,而是成为了它的一部分。」

当最后一位僧侣远去,Noi 引领宾客步入村寺。幽 凉佛殿内,鎏金佛像正沐着晨光。众人盘坐木地板上, 随长者冥想。香火氤氲中,晨鸟啼鸣与诵经声交织。

十五分钟的静修延至半小时,当宾客再度睁眼时,眸中 跃动着静谧的震撼 他们已接触到老挝的灵性深处。

晨修之后,Noi 带宾客穿梭于喧嚣早市。摊位上异 国风物满溢:茄子、香蕉花、香茅、圣罗勒,宾客品尝 着糯米煎饼,Noi 则讲解每种食材在老挝饮食与传说中 的地位。待到湄公河畔小馆的那碗热气腾腾的 Khao soi 米线上桌时,他们已与古城日常血脉相连。

从瀑布丛林徒步到山顶寺庙僧侣祈福,酒店的每项 探索都是向文化灵魂的朝圣。这些精心设计的行程,让 宾客带回的不只是照片,更是生命体验。

回到瑰丽酒店,文化之旅在盘中延续。The Great

Adrien Pons, General Manager
酒店总经理Adrien Pons

statues catch the new light. The group, sitting cross-legged on the wooden floor, joins a local elder in a simple meditation. The air is thick with the fragrance of incense and the sound of morning birds. Fifteen minutes stretch into thirty as roosters crow and a gentle chant resonates from a nearby altar. When the guests finally open their eyes, they glow with quiet wonder – they have touched the spiritual heart of Laos.

Later that morning, Noi escorts the guests through the bustling fresh market in town. Stalls overflow with exotic produce: eggplants, banana flowers, and such herbs as lemongrass and holy basil. The guests sample sticky rice pancakes and marvel at baskets of spices while Noi explains each ingredient’s place in Lao cuisine and folklore. By the time they sit down to a bowl of steaming khao soi noodles at a local eatery by the Mekong, they have forged an intimate connection with Luang Prabang’s daily life.

From guided jungle treks to hidden waterfalls, to private blessings with monks at hilltop shrines, the resort’s excursions

Overnight Oat (breakfast menu) 隔夜燕麦早餐

→ Khamphone Vongphachan (Ben), Waitress 服务员Khamphone Vongphachan (Ben)

House 餐厅行政总厨 Wochirawish “Ice” Lerttanapornsit 有时会前往探访提供当季食材的当地农夫及采集者。这 位泰国裔厨师在移居琅勃拉邦前便深爱上老挝食材。他 说:「我们每道菜都采用周边农场的时令鲜物。」他的菜 单可谓可食用的文化:晨采香草拌的青木瓜沙拉脆爽鲜 香,蕉叶包裹的蒸鱼飘散莳萝与辣椒香气,传统茄子水 牛肉经久炖煮。为支持当地社会企业,Ice 主厨甚至从 城郊牧场采购各种奶酪。

在 The Great House 的每一餐,都是穿越老挝饮食 文明的旅程。晚餐或许会出现琅勃拉邦名菜 or lam—— 用香茅与黑木耳熬煮的浓汤,搭配茉莉香米炖饭,传统 与创新在此交融。甜点时段,紫糯米配搭椰奶与鲜芒果 的经典组合,正是对街头小食的优雅致敬。Ice 主厨与 团队将食材故事娓娓道来:汤中南瓜来自苗族村寨的有 机农园,淋酱的野蜜采自僧侣照看的森林蜂巢。每一口 都沉淀着老挝的饮食基因。主厨表示:「我希望客人尝 到的不仅是美味,更是食材背后的历史与心意。」在他 看来,方寸餐盘间承载着记忆、文化与联结的三重奏鸣。

Pheng Soudaphone (Pheng), Head Gardener 园丁领班Pheng Soudaphone (Pheng)

are journeys into the soul of the culture. Each outing is so thoughtfully crafted that guests return to the resort carrying with them not just photographs but lived experience.

Back at Rosewood, cultural discovery continues on the plate. In the kitchen of The Great House restaurant, Executive Chef Wochirawish “Ice” Lerttanapornsit begins many days by visiting local farmers and foragers who bring the freshest bounty of the season. Thailand-born Chef Ice fell in love with Lao ingredients long before moving to Luang Prabang. “We use fresh produce from nearby farms and highlight local ingredients in every dish,” he explains, emphasizing a philosophy of farmto-table that underpins the resort’s cuisine. His menus are an edible homage to Laos: vibrant green papaya salads crunch with herbs picked at dawn, fresh fish steamed in banana leaves arrives perfumed with dill and chili, rich buffalo stews are simmered with eggplant and galangal in the age-old way. In fact,

当暮色四合,灯笼被点亮,丛林开始吟唱催眠 曲。此时最适合移步 Elephant Bridge 酒吧 这个位 于潺潺溪流之上的开放式凉亭酒吧,由调酒师 ”Noy” Thanakone Thor 主理。白天,他常在香草园采摘薄荷、 柠檬香蜂草与蝶豆花,用于夜间特调。他捻碎罗勒叶 时低语:「我对将自然幻化成鸡尾酒深深着迷。」酒单 既包括本土化经典款,也有取材自老挝传说的原创之 作:用当地稻米威士忌、棕榈糖与山草苦精调制的 Elephant Bridge Old Fashioned,以及经蝶豆花染色的 香茅马天尼。

Noy

在两位宾客面前铺开材料:木槿干花、新鲜 罗望子、野蜂巢,以及标着 lao-lao 的琥珀色米酒。他 像进行某种仪式般开始调制,将罗望子汁混合蜂蜜和 青柠。他说:「每杯酒都应带着琅勃拉邦的风味。」雪 克杯晃动间,他讲述着灵感来源 度假村入口那株 罗望子树,此刻正在杯中旋转的果实正来自那里。成

Chef Ice sources buffalo mozzarella and ricotta from a dairy farm just outside town to support a social enterprise that empowers local farmers.

Dining at The Great House is a journey through Lao culinary heritage, often with a contemporary twist. One evening’s menu might feature or lam, the famous Luang Prabang stew fragrant with lemongrass and wood ear mushrooms, served alongside delicate jasmine rice risotto – both comforting and novel. For dessert, guests savor spoonfuls of sweet purple sticky rice topped with coconut milk and fresh mango, a nod to a beloved street food treat. Through it all, Chef Ice and his team weave stories of how the organic pumpkin in the soup was grown in a nearby Hmong village or how the wild honey drizzle comes from forest hives tended by monks in a distant monastery. The deep culinary roots of Laos run through every bite. “My hope is that our guests taste not just delicious food but the history and

品缀以香茅卷与鸡蛋花,风味带甜、酸及草本香,恍若 将老挝的温柔灵魄凝练成液态。这里没有浮夸的调酒技 法,只有对风土的精准捕捉。他表示:「就像把这片土 地的灵魂封存瓶中,供客人品味。」

夜色渐深,宾客手执酒杯,在河面吊床轻晃。黑夜 群星闪烁,溪流在灯笼映照下起舞。蝉鸣、庙鼓与欢笑 声交织,此刻的奢华,正是这种与自然人文完全相融的 沉浸感。

临别之际,宾客们已然领悟:琅勃拉邦瑰丽酒店不 仅是奢华居所,更是古今对话的桥梁。在这里,文化不 是展示品,而是生动的体验,深化宾客对老挝的认知。 真正的待客之道不在于铺张,而在于意义 每个细节 都在守护传统,并赠予真实而永恒的礼物。

当晨光再次漫过丛林山峦,没有隆重的告别仪式, 只有一种静谧的信念:这里的人与故事,将在记忆深 处长久萦绕。

heart behind each ingredient,” says Chef Ice, who believes that food blends memory, culture, and connection on a single plate.

When dusk settles, lanterns flicker to life around the resort and the jungle hums a lullaby. It’s the perfect hour for a cocktail, and the Elephant Bridge Bar awaits –an open-air pavilion gracefully spanning a trickling river. Tended by “Noy” Thanakone Thor, this bar is unlike any other. During the day, Noy can often be found in the resort’s herb garden, clipping sprigs of mint, lemon balm, and butterfly pea flowers for his nocturnal infusions. “I love watching nature transform into a cocktail,” he muses, gently crushing fragrant basil between his fingers. On the menu are classic cocktails with local twists and original creations inspired by Lao lore.

One signature, the Elephant Bridge Old Fashioned, marries a local rice whiskey with organic palm sugar and a dash of bitters made from mountain herbs. Another favorite is a bright purple lemongrass martini, colored by butterfly pea blossoms grown on-site.

Noy places a tray of ingredients before a pair of intrigued bar guests. There are bowls of dried hibiscus petals, fresh tamarind pulp, wild honeycomb, and a vial of amber liquid labeled lao-lao, the traditional Laotian rice spirit. He proceeds with the concoction as if performing a ceremonial rite. “Each cocktail should carry the flavor of Luang Prabang,” he says as he mixes tamarind juice with a spoonful of local honey and a squeeze of lime. The shaker clinks rhythmically as he explains the story of how this particular drink is inspired by the tamarind

tree that shelters the resort’s entrance, the very tree that provided the tart fruit now swirling in the mix. He strains the drinks into glasses and garnishes each with a curl of lemongrass and a floating frangipani flower. The first sip is revelatory – sweet, sour, herbal, and utterly transporting. It’s as if the gentle spirit of Laos has been distilled into liquid form. Here, the art of crafting cocktails is not about flashy mixology but about capturing a sense of place. “It’s like bottling a little piece of this land’s soul for our guests to savor,” says Noy.The evening deepens, and guests at Elephant Bridge Bar sway softly in hammocks over the river, drinks in hand. Above, a velvet sky is pinpricked with stars; below, the stream dances under the glow of hanging lanterns. Sounds of the night – the cicadas’ chirp, the distant echo of temple drums – blend with laughter and the

clink of glasses. In this moment, true luxury is the feeling of complete immersion in a place so alive with nature and human heritage.

As guests prepare to depart, they’ve come to understand that Rosewood Luang Prabang, beyond a luxury retreat, is a bridge between past and present, a place where culture is not merely displayed but lived, where every experience offers a deeper understanding of Laos.

Here, hospitality is not about opulence but meaning. Every detail reflects thoughtful commitment to preserving tradition while offering guests what is real and lasting.

As the full morning light spills over the jungle hills, there is no grand farewell, only the quiet certainty that this place, with its people and its stories, will linger long in memory.

Adrien Pons

隐逸瑰宝

LOCAL CONNECTIONS

Rosewood Luang Prabang is a hidden retreat, a place where luxury meets authenticity in a setting that feels both intimate and timeless. At its helm is General Manager Adrien Pons, who has woven together a vision of hospitality that is as much about cultural preservation as it is about impeccable service. I recently sat down with Adrien to discuss his journey, Rosewood’s unique approach to luxury, and how this extraordinary property embodies the brand’s “Sense of Place” philosophy. § 琅勃拉邦瑰丽酒店是一处隐秘的避世之 所,在这里,奢华与本真相遇,营造出私密而永恒的意境。酒店总经理 Adrien Pons 一直秉持将文化 传承与至臻服务完美融合的待客之道。近日,我有幸与 Adrien 畅谈他的职业历程、瑰丽独特的奢华 理念,以及琅勃拉邦瑰丽酒店如何诠释品牌「地方感(A Sense of Place)」的哲学。

Adrien, tell us how your journey brought you to Rosewood Luang Prabang.

Before coming here, I was director of sales and marketing at another Rosewood property. But during COVID, I had the opportunity to step into a more operational role. I was one of the few expats who stayed on, and I found myself managing different aspects of the hotel. It became clear that I wanted a new challenge – something different from the corporate hotel world.

I’d always lived in big cities – Paris, Abu Dhabi, Shanghai –but I started exploring rural Cambodia on my own. I discovered the beauty of remote destinations, the richness of small communities, and realized I wanted to be part of something more connected to the local culture. So when the opportunity arose to lead a hotel that embodies cultural preservation, sustainability, and deep storytelling, I knew it was the right fit.

How does Rosewood’s “Sense of Place” philosophy come to life here in Luang Prabang?

“Sense of Place” is not just a design principle – it’s embedded in everything we do. From the architecture to the dining experience to the way we train our staff, everything is about honoring Lao culture.

For example, the menus at our restaurant are printed on handmade mulberry paper, sourced from a local family-run workshop. The same goes for our pottery. We work directly with a pottery village, ensuring that the art continues for generations. Just by staying here – without doing anything extra – guests are supporting these artisans and helping preserve Lao heritage.

Adrien,请分享一下您是如何加入琅勃拉 邦瑰丽酒店的? 我之前在另一家瑰丽酒店担任销售与 市场总监。疫情期间,我有机会接触更多运 营工作。作为少数留守的外籍员工,我参与 了酒店各个环节的管理。这让我 渴望新的挑战 – – 跳出传统商务 酒店的模式。

我曾在巴黎、阿布扎比、 上海等大都市生活,但独自探索柬埔寨乡村 时,我发现了偏远之地的魅力与小社区的淳 朴,并意识到自己渴望投身于更贴近本土文 化的事业。因此当有机会执掌这家注重文化 传承、可持续发展和深度叙事的酒店时,我 确信这就是理想之选。

瑰丽「地方感(A Sense of Place)」的哲 学在琅勃拉邦如何体现? 这不仅体现在设计上,更渗透于每个 细节。从建筑风格到餐饮体验,再到员工培 训,我们始终在向老挝文化致敬。

举例来说,餐厅菜单采用本地家庭作 坊手工制作的桑皮纸,陶器则直接与制陶村 落合作,让这项技艺得以传承。宾客无需刻 意参与,仅下榻于此就是在支持这些手艺人, 助力保存老挝遗产。

How do you bring cultural preservation into the guest experience?

A lot of it comes down to storytelling and connection. Take our trekking experience. Yes, it’s a beautiful walk to Kuang Si Falls, but it’s not just about nature. It’s about spending time with our guide, Noi, who shares stories about Lao spirituality, history, and way of life.

And our almsgiving ceremony, where guests participate in a meaningful Buddhist tradition, is not just an Instagram moment – it’s a lesson in generosity, mindfulness, and respect.

We also work with local families to introduce traditional Lao cuisine. A great example is naem khao, a delicate steamed rice pancake filled with mushrooms, pork, and egg. Most Lao people think of it as simple schoolboy street food, but we brought in a local woman to cook it here for guests. Now our staff see their own culture celebrated, and our guests discover something truly authentic.

Who are the guests that come to Rosewood Luang Prabang? What are your top markets?

Surprisingly, our biggest market is the US. A lot of American travelers are curious, well-traveled, and looking for off-the-beaten-path destinations. Laos is the next frontier. Our second-largest market is China, including Hong Kong. And we have a strong regional market from Thailand, especially Bangkok.

About 60 to 65 percent of our guests are women. We see a lot of mother-daughter trips, girlfriends’ getaways, and women traveling solo. Luang Prabang is a spiritual, cultural place – there are no bars or nightlife – so it naturally attracts a more introspective traveler.

How has the influx of luxury hotels in recent years changed Luang Prabang?

Unlike many destinations in Asia that have been overdeveloped, Luang Prabang has maintained its authenticity. When you walk through town, you still see local families, monks going to temple, and artisans crafting by hand.

Your team here is incredibly special. What’s your approach to hiring and training?

I believe that skills can be taught but passion and curiosity cannot. When we interview potential staff, we don’t just ask about their experience. We ask where they like to eat in Luang Prabang and what temple they’d recommend to a guest. When someone lights up, talking about a hidden noodle shop or a quiet monastery, we know they’ll engage guests with genuine passion. That’s why our guests don’t just remember the design of the hotel – they remember the people.

如何将文化传承融入宾客体验? 关键在于故事与联结。以徒步活动为 例,前往关西瀑布的沿途不仅风景绝美, 更有向导 Noi 分享老挝信仰、历史与生活 智慧。

布施仪式也不仅是打卡瞬间,更是关 于慷慨、正念与尊重的修行。

我们还邀请本地家庭传授传统菜肴, 比如用蘑菇、猪肉和鸡蛋制作的精致米饼 naem khao – – 这本是老挝学生常吃的街 边小吃,但经过本地厨娘的演绎,员工们 见证了自身文化被珍视,宾客则收获了地 道体验。

琅勃拉邦瑰丽的主要客群和市场是?

出乎意料地,美国是我们的第一大市 场。许多美国旅客充满好奇心,足迹遍布 各地,正在寻找秘境。老挝正是他们的新 大陆。中国(包括香港)是第二大市场, 泰国,尤其是曼谷的客源也很稳定。

约 60%-65% 的宾客是女性,常见母 女同游、闺蜜度假或独自旅行的女性。琅 勃拉邦的精神文化氛围 – – 没有酒吧或夜 生活 – – 自然吸引了追求内省的旅行者。

近年来奢华酒店的涌入为琅勃拉邦带来 了什么变化?

与亚洲许多过度开发的目的地不同, 这里仍保持着本真。漫步城中,你依然能 看到当地居民、前往寺庙的僧侣和手工匠 人的身影。

您的团队非常特别,在招聘和培训上有 何心得?

我认为技能可以培养,但热情与好 奇心无法强求。面试时我们不太关注经 验,反而会问他喜欢去城里哪家餐馆? 会推荐客人参观哪座寺庙?当候选人谈 起一家隐秘的面馆或幽静的寺院眼中有 光时,我们就知道他们能以真诚打动宾 客。正因如此,客人记住的不只是酒店 设计,更是这里的人。

Terrace of the waterfall pool villa 瀑布泳池别墅阳台

What unites all Rosewood hotels? What’s the common DNA?

Each property is different – whether it’s an urban hotel in Bangkok or a remote retreat like ours – but what ties us together is our commitment to honoring local culture. It’s not about luxury in the traditional sense. It’s about creating experiences that educate, inspire, and connect guests to a place in a deep way.

Guests won’t remember if they had an avocado toast for breakfast, but they will remember the story behind a handmade textile, the warmth of a conversation with a local guide, the quiet moment of reflection at a temple. We strive for creating moments that stay with people long after they’ve left.

Finally, what keeps you inspired as a general manager?

It’s seeing our staff take pride in their culture. As they watch guests genuinely fascinated by Lao food, crafts, and customs, they start to appreciate their own heritage more deeply.

When a guest leaves and says, “I feel enriched. I’ve learned something new,” I know we’ve done our job. Because in the end, that’s what Rosewood Luang Prabang is all about – not just a luxury stay but a journey into the heart of Laos.

所有瑰丽酒店的共同基因是什么? 无论是曼谷的城市酒店还是我们这样的 隐世之所,对本土文化的敬意是共通的。传 统意义上的奢华并非重点,我们追求的是通 过体验让宾客深度认知、感受并联结这片土 地。

客人或许会忘记早餐是否吃过牛油果吐 司,但一定会记得一块手工织物的故事、与 向导的暖心对话或在寺庙静思的片刻。我们 致力于创造离店后仍长存心间的回忆。

最后,什么是您作为总经理的灵感源泉? 是看到员工为自身文化自豪的模样。当 他们发现宾客真诚地为老挝美食、工艺和习 俗着迷时,也会更珍视自己的传统。

当客人离开时说「我感到充实,学到了 新知」,我就知道我们成功了。因为琅勃拉邦 瑰丽的真谛正在于此 – – 不仅是一次奢华停 留,更是一场深入老挝灵魂的旅程。

THE SIXTEEN COUNTRIES OF THE MIDDLE EAST are a world of culinary diversity, reflecting a rich tapestry woven from history, myriad cultures, and the region’s location at the crossroads of ancient trade routes. Numerous civilizations have helped to define the dishes at the heart of Middle Eastern cuisines, whose fragrant spices like cumin and saffron join fresh herbs like mint, parsley, and cilantro in dazzling, multilayered creations. With a compelling blend of tradition and modernity, coupled with deep-rooted customs of hospitality, the food culture of the Middle East captivates visitors, and it’s no surprise that it has also found fans far from its homeland. A look at Hong Kong, for

中东的十六个国家以历史长河中的多元 文明与古老商路的馈赠,共同编织出风 味交织的美食万花筒。小茴香与藏红花 的馥郁,薄荷、欧芹与芫荽的清新,在 层层叠叠的味觉建构中碰撞出令人赞叹 的火花。

传统与现代的迷人交融,加上长久 以来的好客传统,使中东饮食文化不仅 令旅人沉醉,更在遥远异乡收获知音。 以香港为例,黎巴嫩、埃及、摩洛哥、 伊朗及约旦餐厅在此各展风华。中东饮

CROSSROADS OF FLAVOR

THE MIDDLE EAST & NORTH AFRICA’S

50 BEST RESTAURANTS 2025

CELEBRATES A REGION’S THRILLINGLY VIBRANT FOOD LANDSCAPE.

example, reveals restaurants from Lebanon, Egypt, Morocco, Iran, and Jordan, all celebrating their own unique flavors. A key factor in the cuisine’s success in Asia is its age-old emphasis on communal dining. Indeed, family meals with invited guests are central in both cultures.

But innovation is also increasingly defining Middle Eastern dining as chefs push the boundaries in brilliantly creative menus. Nowhere is that clearer than at Orfali Bros Bistro in Dubai, recently named number one on the list of MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025, announced earlier this year at a glittering ceremony at Erth Abu Dhabi hotel.

The three Orfali brothers, Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar, secured first-place bragging rights for an unprecedented third year running. Their inventive dishes inspired by their Syrian home of Aleppo range from a brilliant take on gyoza with shish barak to the Insta-famous OB Croquette featuring a parmesan dashi custard and luscious onion tamari sauce.

Coming in at number two was Dubai’s fine-dining Indian eatery Trèsind Studio, led by Chef Himanshu Saini. His immersive degustation menus celebrate India in all its incredible geographical and cultural diversity. Dubai rounded out the top three spots with Kinoya, an elegant

食文化在亚洲成功的关键,在于其共食传统 也同样历史悠久。

但主厨们浑洒的创意,使创新成为中东 餐饮的新标签。迪拜的 Orfali Bros Bistro 就 是最佳例证,并在 Erth Abu Dhabi 酒店举办 的颁奖典礼上摘得「中东及北非 50 最佳餐 厅」桂冠。

来自叙利亚阿勒颇的三兄弟主厨 Mohammad、Wassim 与 Omar,以创意惊艳 味蕾,已史无前例地连续三年蝉联榜首。他 们从家乡汲取灵感,打造如日式煎饺与中东 肉饺的奇妙融合,以及风靡社交媒体的 OB 可乐饼(帕玛森高汤奶油与洋葱酱油)。

迪拜高端印度餐厅 Trèsind Studio 位列 第二,主厨 Himanshu Saini 通过沉浸式品鉴 菜单,展现印度辽阔疆域孕育的饮食多样性。

日式居酒屋 Kinoya 则代表迪拜包揽季军,以 顶级食材演绎东瀛风情。

Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar Orfali

celebration of the Japanese izakaya tradition and the finest Japanese produce.

The list’s number four ranking went to Khufu’s in Cairo. Helmed by Chef Mostafa Seif, the restaurant offers iconic Egyptian dishes with contemporary techniques and flavors – along with a spectacular view of the pyramids. Finishing the top five was Ossiano in Dubai, a progressive fine-dining restaurant with a focus on seafood, set amid the dramatic surroundings of an aquarium at Atlantis The Palm.

Although the UAE topped the country list with an impressive twenty-two restaurants, the list included winners from eleven cities

开罗的 Khufu’s 餐厅位列第四,主厨

Mostafa Seif 用现代技法重塑埃及经典美味, 更可从餐厅欣赏金字塔景观。迪拜的 Ossiano 餐厅跻身前五,这家位于棕榈岛亚特兰蒂斯酒 店水族馆内的高级食府,让宾客在鱼群环绕中 享用海洋馈赠。

尽管阿联酋以 22 家上榜餐厅成为最大赢 家,本届榜单也覆盖了马拉喀什、贝鲁特、利 雅得等 11 个城市的佼佼者。

Tala Bashmi 荣获由同行大厨投票选出的

across the MENA region, from Marrakech and Beirut and to Riyadh and Manama.

Winner of the Estrella Damm N.A. Chefs’ Choice Award was Tala Bashmi, chosen by her peers for her positive impact on the regional culinary community and for her redefinition of the country’s cuisine through fresh takes on classic heritage dishes.

MENA ’s Best Female Chef Award winner was Yasmina Hayek, who has carried on the work of her mother, Mireille Hayek, in bringing Lebanese food to the world’s attention through the Em Sherif Group in locations that include Monaco, London, Beirut, and Abu Dhabi.

「Estrella Damm N.A. 主厨之选奖」,她通过创 新诠释经典菜肴,重新定义了国家的美食版图, 其积极影响深获同行认可。

「最佳女厨师奖」得主 Yasmina Hayek 延 续母亲 Mireille Hayek 的事业,透过 Em Sherif 餐饮集团在摩洛哥、伦敦、贝鲁特及阿布扎比 将黎巴嫩美食推向世界舞台。

迪拜 Brix and 3 Fills 餐厅行政糕点主厨 Carmen Rueda Hernandez 获得「最佳糕点师 奖」。这位西班牙明星主厨打造了中东地区唯

← Khufu’s
↓ Tala Bashmi

Carmen Rueda Hernandez, executive pastry chef at Dubai’s Brix and 3 Fills, was named MENA’s Best Pastry Chef. The Spanish star is known for crafting the Middle East’s only dessert tasting menu, with six courses inspired by China, India, Persia, Turkey, Greece, and Italy.

Dara Dining by Sara Aqel in Amman, ranking number eighteen on the list, received the Highest New Entry Award. To understand her mission and how she celebrates local produce, diners shouldn’t miss her Seasonal Bounty Salad.

Finally, Boca in Dubai won the Sustainable Restaurant Award, and its chef, Omar Shihab, was honored with the Icon Award for his focus on responsible dining, zero-waste initiatives, ethical sourcing, and support of local farmers and fishers.

一的甜品品鉴菜单,六道甜品的创作灵感源 自中国、印度、波斯、土耳其、希腊和意大 利的美食传统。

安曼的 Dara Dining by Sara Aqel 餐厅 位列榜单第 18 位,并获得「最佳新上榜餐 厅奖」。想了解主厨对本地食材的礼赞理念, 其招牌时令丰收沙拉不容错过。

迪拜 Boca 餐厅荣膺「可持续餐厅奖」, 主厨 Omar Shihab 因坚持责任餐饮理念(包 括推动零废弃、伦理采购体系及扶持本地农 渔民),被授予「标志人物奖」。

层层优雅 花香绽放

layered elegance

Sofitel’s La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms collection reimagines croissants as floral-themed edible art.

BLENDING FRENCH PATISSERIE MASTERY with native flower motifs from seven of its global destinations, luxury hotel and resort brand Sofitel has introduced La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms collection. Launching this May, the limited-edition series is inspired by blooms native to international locales that range from South Korea and Morocco to Mexico and Australia.

“Creating La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms allowed us to elevate everyday experiences for guests by infusing our pastries with creativity and flair,” says Sofitel Corporate Executive Chef Anne-Cécile Degenne. “We wanted to craft something that not only celebrates local flavors but also redefines how we experience the world’s most beloved pastry.”

One standout creation, the Seoul Bom Blush, transforms South Korea’s famous cherry blossom season into a gastronomic celebration. Available throughout May exclusively at Sofitel Ambassador Seoul Hotel & Serviced Residences, this delicately flaky croissant features cherry blossom whipped ganache and vibrant raspberry gel encased in buttery, petal-like layers. “We wanted to capture the fleeting beauty of cherry blossoms in a way that lingers by offering guests a taste of spring with every bite,” says Pastry Chef Hyunho Lim, who designed the delectable treat.

索菲特全新限量版「La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms」 系列,将法式烘焙艺术与全球花卉的优雅之美结合,打 造前所未有的美味体验。该系列将于今年五月推出,以 七大索菲特目的地的花卉为灵感,包括韩国、摩洛哥、 墨西哥和澳洲等地,将经典可颂重新定义为精致艺术品。

Adding to the collection’s bouquet are, among others, Morocco’s Zesty Orange Blossom, Mexico’s Dalia Rouge, and Australia’s Citrus Fleur, each paying tribute to its origin through locally sourced ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship.

索菲特集团行政主厨 Anne-Cécile

Degenne 表示:「创作 La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms 系列的初衷,是通过融入创意与 巧思,将日常体验提升到新的高度。我们不 仅借此致敬本地风味,还希望重新诠释大家热爱的世界 经典糕点。」

其中一款亮点是「Seoul Bom Blush」,灵感来自韩 国著名的樱花季。这款精美的可颂仅于 2025 年 5 月在 索菲特首尔大使酒店独家供应,以花瓣般的层次包裹着 樱花味奶油夹心和浓郁的覆盆子果冻。负责创作这款可

“Each croissant tells a story of its destination, combining French sophistication with the essence of local culture,” says Degenne. “It’s about creating a sensory journey of constant surprises and delights.”

Beyond this limited-edition release, Sofitel continues its commitment to culinary innovation with year-round offerings like Singapore’s teh tarik croissant, Bangkok’s pandan-infused pastry, and Krabi’s squid ink and sea salt edition. Each of these creations reflects Sofitel’s Cultural Link ethos, which celebrates the interplay of French artistry and regional authenticity.

Beyond sheer indulgence, Sofitel’s Blossoms collection offers travelers and food lovers a chance to explore global cultures through the luscious layers of France’s most iconic pastry.

颂的 Hyunho Lim 主厨分享道:「我们希望以一种悠长的方式呈 现樱花的短暂美丽,每一口都能品味春天的味道。」 此外,该系列还包括摩洛哥的「 Zesty Orange Blossom 」、 墨西哥的「 Dalia Rouge 」和澳洲的「 Citrus Fleur 」等,每款 都通过当地食材和精湛技艺致敬目的地的风土精髓。

Anne-Cécile 说:「每一款可颂都在讲述目的地的独特故 事,融合了法式优雅与本地文化的神韵。这是一场味觉的旅行, 让每一口都充满惊喜与愉悦。」

除了限量系列外,索菲特还推出如新加坡「拉茶可颂」、 曼谷的「班兰风味可颂」和甲米的「墨鱼汁海盐可颂」等全年 供应的创新作品,展现了品牌的「文化链接」精神,将法式艺 术与本地文化完美结合。

对于旅行者和美食爱好者来说, Blossoms 系列不仅仅是 一场味觉盛宴,更是一场通过法式经典糕点探索全球文化的 旅程。

Aji 雅吉

5 Asian Contemporary G/F, Mezzanine, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅酒店地面夹层

Weekdays (Except Tues): 18:00–23:00 Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 12:00–15:00, 18:00–23:00 q +853 8806 2308

Jin Sha 金沙厅

5 Zhejiang

1/F, Four Seasons Hotel at West Lake, 5 Lingyin Road, Xihu, Hangzhou, 310013, Zhejiang Province

浙江省杭州市西湖区灵隐路5号西子湖四季 酒店1楼

Lunch: 11:30-14:00

Dinner: 17:30-21:00

q +86 571 8113 5188

Mi Shang 迷上

5 Western

2/F, Prada Rong Zhai, No.186, North Shaan Xi Road, Jing’an District, Shanghai, China

上海市静安区陕西北路186号

Prada 荣宅二楼

Tue to Sun: 10:00-22:00 q +86 021 2218 0388

Vender 贩

5 Bar & Lounge No. 118, Wuquan West 4th St, West District, Taichung City

台中市西区五权西四街118号

Weekdays:18:00-12:00

Sat & Sun: 12:00-03:00 q +886 4 2372 5875

Wing Lei Bar 永利吧

5 Bar & Lounge

West Esplanade, G/F Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街

地面层

Daily: 17:00-01:00

A Casual elegant q +853 8889 3663

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