Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.
SHANGHAI: Room H2, No 25, Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai • 上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室 HONG KONG: Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong • 香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室
MACAU: Rua do Volong n2-a, Lazarus Verde, Rés-do-chão C, Macau • 澳门和隆街 2 号晶品艺楹地面 C 座
Mark Hammons
FOUNDER & PUBLISHER
创办与出版人 mark@tasting-kitchen.com
Joey Cheang DEPUTY PUBLISHER
副出版人 joey@tasting-kitchen.com
Mamie Chen
Marilyn Burkley
Robert Burkley
Zita Wan
SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑
Vivian Pun
DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER 数字媒体经理
Victoria Lei
Odelia Kuok
PROJECT MANAGERS 项目经理
David Hartung DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监
J. Carl Kerkman, MFA
IMAGE EDITOR
图像编辑
Jin Lao
IMAGE TECHNICIAN
图像技术员
Kate Nicholson
CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
ART AND DESIGN
特约编辑-艺术设计专栏
Annabel Jackson
Chris Dwyer
Julie Tu
Lorria Sahmet
Victoria Burrows
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
特約作家
ON THE COVER
Photography by David Hartung
This pear-shaped tribute to mountain clouds, an ethereal creation from Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fong of Chef Tam’s Seasons at Wynn Palace Macau, captures the essence of Top of the Pass – where elevated cuisine meets artistry at the peak of perfection.
In the heart of every fine-dining kitchen, the pass is where it all comes together – where plates are refined, garnishes fall into place, and fleeting moments become lasting impressions. It’s a place of precision, heat, and discipline. But it’s also a stage. And in this issue, we celebrate the chefs who stand at the very top of it.
Top of the Pass is a tribute to culinary leadership across Asia. It’s a toast to the creative minds reshaping what it means to cook at the highest level – and to the quiet mastery that fuels their every move. From Bangkok to Seoul, from Macau to Tokyo, from vineyard estates to waterfront pavilions, these chefs are not only crafting exceptional food – they’re defining an era. We take you behind the scenes of the awards ceremonies of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong and Macau 2025 and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 to meet the people behind the plates: Gaggan Anand’s audacious storytelling, Vicky Cheng’s refined reinterpretations of Chinese heritage, and Chef Tam’s deep alignment with the rhythms of the land. And in Hangzhou, we shine a spotlight on Chef Wang Yong of Jin Sha, whose poetic balance of tradition and technique at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake has helped establish the restaurant as one of China’s most compelling culinary destinations.
At Tasting Kitchen (TK), we believe great cuisine isn’t only about ingredients or execution – it’s about expression. It’s about people. And in these pages, you’ll meet some of the most expressive, driven, and visionary individuals in food today. Their dishes may last only minutes. Their ideas, we suspect, much longer.
亲爱的 TK 读者,展卷愉快。 欢迎阅览 TK 第 60 期《厨传巅峰 ( Top of the Pass)》。 在每一家顶级餐厅的厨房核心地带, 传菜台(pass)是所有元素汇聚之处 摆盘在这里得到精雕细琢,配菜在此刻各 归其位,转瞬即逝的瞬间化作永恒的印 记。这是一个讲究精准、高温与纪律的殿 堂,更是一座舞台。在本期,我们向那些 站在传菜台最前端的厨艺大师致敬。
Food, fantasy, and identity collide in Thai artist Gongkan’s surreal reflections on belonging and time.
THE CONCEPT OF “right person, wrong time” is a central theme in Asynchronous Affinities, a solo exhibition by Thailand-born artist Gongkan at Tang Contemporary Art in Hong Kong from March to May. The unsettling phrase spurs exploration of the conflict between the individual and the time or culture they inhabit. “Sometimes we feel like we don’t belong,” says Gongkan, “but maybe it’s not we who are wrong – it’s the context that makes us feel that way. Growing up with certain expectations can make it hard to feel fully like ourselves.”
BY KATE NICHOLSON
In the one-meter-square acrylic Beauty of the Past (Ikebana), the artist highlights his long-time fascination with Japanese floral arrangement as a reflection of Asian beauty in the face of chaos. The painting holds high the messy, overwhelming aspects of life as something worth honoring, “a life that has experienced so much,” as Gongkan puts it.
His art is undeniably surrealist, inspired by seminal figures René Magritte and Salvador Dalí. “The genre gives me the freedom to express both thought and imagination in my visuals,” he explains. “It creates a unique space where reality blends with fantasy, and I enjoy combining the two.” In the painting We’re Burning Together, a planet-shaped peephole into space replaces the eyes of two people pressed cheek to cheek.
Gongkan has depicted these “teleportation holes” since his earliest days sticker-bombing city streets. In Asynchronous Affinities, he expands on the iconography. According to exhibition curator Larys Frogier, Gongkan’s images “magnificently unfold as contact zones, areas of passage, but also as extended
Beauty of the Past (Ikebana), 100 x 100 cm, acrylic on canvas, completed 2025 《过去的美丽(花道)》,100×100厘米,布面丙烯,2025年
GONGKAN
Fusion Cuisine, 100 x 100 cm, acrylic on canvas, completed 2025
“In any culture food is a fundamental social act that contains multiple and contradictory values related to cultural identity, family bonds or conflicts, national affiliation, or cross-cultural links.
在任何文化中,食物都是一项基 本的社会活动,其中蕴含着与 文化身份、家庭纽带或冲突、
民族归属感或跨文化联系相关 的多重且相互矛盾的价值观。”
fields of energies that could express resistance and opposition, reaction and counteraction, sadness or fierceness, eroticism or meditation, serenity or criticality.”
Laying out a spread for deeper musings on identity, memory, and societal values are Fusion Cuisine, a large artwork showing two disembodied heads peering out from tableware beside a flower-filled vase on a Chinesestyle table, and the installation by the same name, where dishes of fast fashion, magazines, and CDs revolve on a lazy Susan. “In any culture,” explains Frogier, “food is a fundamental social act that contains multiple and contradictory values related to cultural identity, family bonds or conflicts, national affiliation, or cross-cultural links. In this exhibition, food deals with such cultural frictions but also goes beyond them, embracing larger topics, such as pollution, environmental care, overconsumption, artificiality, and destruction of human and nonhuman components.”
As both a graphic designer and a contemporary artist, Gongkan favors clean visuals and relies on his own aesthetic language. “As I grow,” he says, “my work develops with me. I approach ideas the way I did in advertising, but with an artistic side that’s more emotional and expressive.” That evolution prompts the question, what comes next? “I want to explore more cultural narratives,” he says, “especially ones that feel relevant to me. Asian culture and generational themes are topics I feel particularly connected to right now.” At its heart is a drive for self-acceptance: “I hope my art helps viewers reconnect with themselves.”
AB Concept and Noritake Design Collection transform natural textures into fine porcelain to create a deeper connection between food and its sources.
HONORING THE ORIGINS of ingredients is a concept central to culinary approaches ranging from farm-to-fork cuisine to seasonally focused Japanese omakase dining. Hong Kong-based luxury design firm AB Concept and Noritake Design Collection elevate this idea with their inaugural Bangle Collection. The dishes’ form resembles a stack of statement bangles, while the finishes are inspired by nature’s topographies. The first series, Ocean Bangles, drawing from the quiet beauty of life under white-tipped waves, features tubercles from sea urchin tests and ribs and nodes of clamshells.
“We wanted the Ocean Bangle series to feel as though it belongs in a space where ingredients are carefully sourced and presentation is elevated to an art form,” says Ed Ng, cofounder of AB Concept. “By inviting diners to not only taste but also feel nature, the collection deepens the experience at the table, allowing guests to truly connect with the natural world.”
The process of creating the Bangle Collection presented manufacturing challenges that stretched Noritake’s already industry-defining knowledge. “It was particularly difficult to apply the glaze evenly and maintain the subtle color and texture during the high-temperature firing process,” says Tomoyuki Katada of the executive office at Noritake. “To solve this problem, we developed a new glaze formula and achieved the ideal texture by having artisans manually adjust the glaze thickness.” The design process posed hurdles for the AB Concept team, too. One of the main challenges, Ng explains, was “achieving a level of texture that felt authentic and true to its natural inspiration.” Working closely with their R&D lab, they used 3D model printing to prototype intricate surfaces with a high degree of precision before translating them into porcelain.
The Bangle Collection was well-received by guests at its Milan Design Week debut in April, with many commenting on the tableware’s ability to enhance the dining experience by elevating food presentation while looking just as good on a shelf when not in use. “The Bangle Collection features a unique tactile quality, offering chefs and food enthusiasts a blank canvas for culinary expression,” says Ng. “It allows them to freely explore their creativity, interweaving sight, smell, taste, and touch to create one-of-a-kind culinary stories.” Porcelain dinnerware enthusiasts with a love for natural textures are in luck: AB Concept and Noritake are preparing to launch their new Forest Series in the near future. “The ocean and forest are vast sources of inspiration, providing endless opportunities to design new pieces,” Ng notes. “To me, the Bangle Collection feels like an open-ended journey with limitless possibilities for expansion.”
AB Concept 联合创办人 伍仲匡说:「我们希望海洋系 列能融入食材经精挑细选、摆 盘显艺术之美的空间。这套餐 具邀请食客深化餐桌体验,实现人与自然 世界的真实联结。」
Housed in a historic Shanghai villa, Mi Shang Prada, the luxury brand’s first restaurant in Asia, channels filmmaker Wong Kar Wai.
BY KATE NICHOLSON
IN WONG KAR WAI’S landmark 2000 film, In the Mood for Love, Mrs. Su (Maggie Cheung) and Mr. Chow (Tony Leung) cross the narrow corridor of their apartment building in hushed, glancing encounters brimming with unspoken longing.
Mi Shang Prada offers visitors a similar sense of quiet intimacy. Guests move through rooms that, like fleeting moments in the film, collapse the boundaries between modern life and history, emotion and pragmatism, reality and fiction. Located on the second floor of Prada Rong Zhai, a renovated 1918 Shanghai estate reopened in 2017, the space features interiors conceptualized by Wong. It offers café-style fare as well as fine dining, a contrast that seamlessly mirrors the philatelic concept of tête-bêche – a pair of joined postage stamps printed in opposing orientations. The name Mi Shang, a portmanteau of “Milan meets Shanghai” that also means “be obsessed with” in Chinese, reflects themes of obsession that permeate Wong’s films.
Each of the restaurant’s distinctly designed rooms unfolds, perhaps unsurprisingly considering their maker, with a scene-driven ambience. The boundary between the present and memory, old Shanghai and new, feels as gently blurred as it does in Wong Kar Wai’s films. Visitors enter The Pastry Shop, helmed by world-champion pastry chef Diego Crosara, through a corridor decorated with woodblock artworks from the Rising Clouds, Blooming Flowers series, a collaboration
in The
Room evoke scenes from Wong Kar Wai’s In the Mood for Love 餐厅内的卡座让人想起王家卫电 影作品《花样年华》中的场景。
between Wong and Duo Yun Xuan Art Center inspired by the television series Blossoms Shanghai. There they find exquisite Italian pastries housed in cherrywood and brass cabinetry reminiscent of Prada’s earliest boutiques. Crosara looked to the aesthetic universe of Wong when crafting his offerings. Regional desserts like tiramisu, cassata, and pasticciotto are reimagined in form while staying true to their origins. “There must be harmony between what is seen and what is tasted,” he notes.
上海」的组合词,在中文中也有「迷恋」之意,反映了王 家卫电影中贯穿始终的执念主题。
考虑到设计者电影大师的身份,每个厅室都延续着 「场景驱动」的美学逻辑,或许并不令人意外。现在与回 忆、旧上海与新时代的界限,如同王家卫镜头下那般温柔 模糊。访客从一条装饰着《云起花开》木版水印系列艺术 作品的走廊进入由世界冠军级糕点师 Diego Crosara 主理 的糕点店。该系列作品是王家卫与艺术品牌朵云轩合作, 灵感源自电视剧《繁花》。樱桃木与黄铜打造的展柜陈列
The Library holds a curated selection of Chinese and Italian design books. 藏书室收藏了一系列精心挑选的中意设计类书籍。
Guests move through The Caffè with its Art Deco Shanghai elements before entering The Study, a real-world embodiment of Wong’s “frame within a frame” device. They peruse a collection of books on Chinese crafts and Italian design in The Library before continuing to The Dining Room and The Terrace. “I studied the structure of the villa and the layout to integrate the elements with the dining experience,” says Executive Chef Lorenzo Lunghi. “Every detail, from the arrangement of tables to the play of mirrors, shaped my creative approach.” The Dining Room evokes the intimate booths and hues of In the Mood for Love, and The Terrace, nestled in Prada Rong Zhai’s garden, offers dining in the open air.
Both chefs were drawn to the lotus flowers adorning the walls of Rong Zhai as inspiration. “Beyond the symbolic meaning,” says Lunghi, “the lotus flower has influenced me visually and culinarily in creating elegant and refined dishes. We also incorporated it into the ceramics that accompany the dishes, a touch that echoes the decorations in the space.” Similarly, Crosara “wanted to integrate the symbol into my work, incorporating it into the decoration of the pastries, including the millefeuille.” Flowers are a recurring motif in Wong Kar Wai’s films, appearing in the boldly floral cheongsams worn by Mrs. Su in In the Mood for Love and in Happy Together as a metaphor for a relationship that once blossomed and is now wilting.
The tiles lining The Terrace are reminiscent of those seen in Happy Together’s tango scene. 露台铺就的瓷砖让人联 想到《春光乍泄》中 的探戈场景。
↓
Ceramic plates embellish the walls of private event space The Study. 陶瓷餐盘点缀着私人活动 空间「书斋」的墙壁。
CELEBRATING
THE UNVEILING OF THE MICHELIN GUIDE HONG KONG AND MACAU 2025 BECOMES A GALA TRIBUTE TO THE REGION’S EXCEPTIONAL RESTAURANTS, TALENTED CHEFS, AND TRENDSETTING FOOD.
THE STARS
BY JOEY CHEANG
PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
THE 2025 MICHELIN GUIDE awards ceremony for Hong Kong and Macau, recently held at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau, was an unforgettable evening, a celebration of culinary brilliance and innovation, an occasion to bring together the region’s top chefs and restaurateurs and honor their achievements.
This year’s Guide features 260 restaurants, including ninety-five with Michelin stars, seventy-six in Hong Kong and nineteen in Macau. Among the highlights were the award of a third star to Amber and a second star to Chef Tam’s Seasons.
Underscoring the region’s dynamic and evolving culinary landscape were seven new restaurants winning their first Michelin star: Ami, Plaisance by Mauro Colagreco, and Tuber Umberto Bombana in Hong Kong, along with Aji, Mizumi, Sushi Kissho by Miyakawa, and Zuicho in Macau.
Adding to the evening’s excitement was “Art on a Plate,” a unique presentation designed to showcase the artistry of gastronomy. Behind a
Yellow Croaker with Shepherd’s Purse Dumpling 荠菜黄鱼蒸饺
dramatic black curtain, a lineup of world-class chefs stood coolly at their stations, ready to reveal their masterpieces. As the curtain rose, they stepped into the spotlight one by one to present stunning canapés that demonstrated their creativity and craftsmanship.
The roster of chefs included such culinary stars such as Julien Tongourian of Robuchon au Dôme, Richard Ekkebus of Amber, Wong Chi Fai of T’ang Court, Ding Yong of Xi Rong Ji, Santiago Fernandez of Maz, Auntie Gaik Lean from Malaysia, Sam Tran of Vietnam’s Gia, and Arvin Wan of Taiwan’s Minimal.
Each dish highlighted consummate expertise and finesse, from Richard Ekkebus’s intricate Foie Gras, Beet Root & Raspberry Chup Chup to Wong Chi Fai’s Cantonese classic Stir-Fried Japanese Wagyu Beef with Spring Onion and Wasabi.
As the host venue, Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau provided the perfect backdrop to the evening. The setting’s sense of grandeur made it a fitting stage for an event saluting excellence in the culinary arts. And the “Art on a Plate” showcase brought to life all the passion and dedication that define each and every Michelin star.
①
Red Abalone Liver Chawanmushi with Plankton, Seaweed & Sweet Peas Ragu 鲍鱼肝茶碗蒸配微藻粉末、紫菜及甜豆肉酱 ②
这个厨师阵容包括:天巢法国餐厅 的 Julien Tongourian 、 Amber 的 Richard Ekkebus、唐阁的黄智辉、新荣记的丁勇、 Maz 的 Santiago Fernandez、来自马来西亚 的 Auntie Gaik Lean、越南 Gia 的 Sam Tran, 以及台湾 Minimal 的万士杰。
每道小点皆彰显他们的高超技艺和细腻 手法:从 Richard Ekkebus 繁复的鹅肝、甜菜 头、覆盆子啫喱,到黄智辉演绎粤式经典的 芥末香葱爆和牛粒,无不令人赞叹。
Minimal Ice Cream 3 Flavors: Bi Luo Chun, Sugarcane, Angelica Root (left); Pine Needle, Camellia Oil, Herb Tea (middle); Olive Oil, Oolong Tea, Magnolia (right) Minimal的三款雪糕: 碧螺春、甘蔗、山当归(左) 松针、苦茶油、青草(中) 橄榄、乌龙茶、玉兰叶(右)
Caviar with Crab and Cauliflower Mousseline
CULTURAL JULIEN TONGOURIAN HIMANSHU SAINI TOHRU NAKAMURA SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE
AT GRAND LISBOA PALACE RESORT MACAU, “CULTURAL ECHOES” TRANSFORMED DINING INTO A THEATRICAL NARRATIVE WHERE EACH PLATE TOLD A STORY OF HERITAGE AND SHARED HUMANITY.
THE GRAND PAVILION at Grand Lisboa Palace Resort Macau recently became the epicenter of a rare gastronomic event. Four culinary visionaries from opposite corners of the globe, each bearing Michelin stars like badges of honor, converged for “Cultural Echoes,” a dining experience that defied conventional boundaries.
More than a sumptuous dinner, it was SJM ’s manifesto of what can happen when culinary diplomacy meets theatrical brilliance. The evening’s theme – “home away from home” – played out as a sensory narrative, with the four chefs revealing personally meaningful stories through their creations.
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG CULINARY
Executive Chef Julien Tongourian of Robuchon au Dôme, which has held three Michelin stars for seventeen years, anchored the event with his masterful French technique. The chef’s Egg Mimosa with King Crab and Caviar showcased his precision and 澳门上葡京综合度假村的上葡京礼堂近日成为一场美 食盛事的舞台。四位来自世界各地的米其林星级厨艺 大师,带着如勋章般闪耀的荣誉齐聚这次「文化味旅」 晚宴,打造突破常规的餐饮体验。
来自迪拜 Trèsind Studio 的主厨 Himanshu Saini 以当代技艺重新定义了印度菜。他为晚宴带来了「印 BY JOEY CHEANG
JULIEN TONGOURIAN HIMANSHU SAINI
TOHRU NAKAMURA SANG-HOON DEGEIMBRE
ECHOES
reverence for tradition. “Cooking is a language that needs no translation,” he remarked. “Tonight, we speak through flavors that honor our roots, while creating something entirely new.”
Joining him was Chef Himanshu Saini of two Michelin-star Trèsind Studio in Dubai. Known for reimagining Indian cuisine through a contemporary lens, Saini presented his Blossom Chaat with Trio of Chutney Seasonings. “When culinary traditions meet,” he said, “magic happens. My dishes reflect the cultural crossroads where innovation meets heritage.”
Chef Tohru Nakamura brought his unique Franco-Japanese perspective from Munich’s two-Michelin-star Tohru in der Schreiberei. His Scallop, Aspic of Mussels, Yuzukosho, and Roasted Shell Beurre Blanc captivated diners with its delicate harmony.
“I create bridges between cultures through food,” he said. “Each dish tells a story of connection and shared humanity.”
Completing the quartet was Chef Sang-Hoon Degeimbre
主厨 Tohru Nakamura 则携其独特的法日融合理 念而来。这位来自慕尼黑米其林二星餐厅 Tohru in der Schreiberei 的料理大师,以一道「带子,青口冻,柚 子胡椒配烤白贝奶油酱」征服了在场宾客。他说:「我 通过食物搭建文化间的桥梁,每道菜肴都在诉说联结 与共情的故事。」
压轴登场的是比利时双星主厨 Sang-Hoon Degeimbre,他执掌的 L’Air du Temps 餐厅不仅获得米 其林二星,更荣膺「绿星」可持续认证。这位生于韩 国、长于比利时的主厨呈现的「鸽肉配红菜头和韩式 辣酱」,完美诠释了他的植物料理哲学。他阐释:「大 自然使用着一种通用语言,我只是将土地的馈赠转译 到餐盘之上。」
of Belgium’s L’Air du Temps, which holds two Michelin stars as well as a Michelin Green Star for sustainability. Born in South Korea and raised in Belgium, Degeimbre presented Pigeon with Beetroot and Gochujang, a dish that embodies his philosophy of botanical gastronomy. “Nature speaks a universal language,” he noted. “I listen to what the land offers and translate it onto the plate.”
Surprise performances by The Three Waiters opera singers turned the evening into an immersive theatrical experience that was further enhanced by a stunning projection map displaying the blending of Eastern and Western artistic traditions.
Commenting on the event’s significance was SJM Managing Director Daisy Ho: “‘Cultural Echoes’ not only celebrates Macau’s reputation as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy but also amplifies its role as a global culinary nexus.”
The lavish dinner represented a kind of edible diplomacy, crafted by masters who proved that, in the right hands, food can transcend its physical form to become a powerful cross-cultural dialogue.
As the menu unfolded, each of six dishes, like the chapters of a gastronomic narrative, told its own story of cultural heritage and culinary innovation:
“This is a very traditional French preparation we call mimosa,” says Chef Tongourian. It begins with hard-boiled eggs, the yolks transformed into a robust mayonnaise heightened with mustard and pronounced seasoning and the whites stuffed with a seasonal mixture of hairy crab and king crab. “This is actually crab season,” notes Tongourian, who is committed to using locally available ingredients. French caviar crowning each egg adds a luxurious touch to this elegant interpretation of a French classic, served as a fitting introduction to the evening’s culinary journey.
BLOSSOM CHAAT WITH TRIO OF CHUTNEY SEASONINGS 印度鲜花沙律,三种印度酸辣调味酱
Chef Saini’s creation reimagines India’s beloved street food tradition through a botanical lens. “Chaat,” he explains, “typically embodies flavor contrasts – sweet, sour, savory, spicy, umami, tangy – with diverse textures, colors, and temperatures – cold and warm at the same time.” His interpretation centers on butternut squash used in its entirety: blossoms fried into crisp tempura shells, flesh transformed into seasoned mash, and seeds toasted for texture. The composition continues with tamarind-mint seasoning, edible flowers for visual impact, and potato-crafted butterflies for a playful accent. The result is what he describes as “a refreshing way to start.”
SCALLOP, ASPIC OF MUSSELS, YUZUKOSHO AND ROASTED SHELL
BEURRE BLANC
带子,青口冻,柚子胡椒配烤白贝奶油酱
Chef Nakamura’s seafood composition, balancing “earthy taste” with “sea flavor,” begins with a translucent dashi aspic concealing razor clams and maitake mushrooms. The dish builds complexity with an emulsion of grilled French oysters, introducing smoky elements reminiscent of barbecue, and ponzu-marinated clams add brightness. At the center stands a caramelized scallop, but Nakamura’s approach to making use of the entire mollusk reveals his philosophy: the skirt is cleaned and gently cooked, and the shells are roasted to flavor butter that enriches a refined mussel beurre blanc. This thoughtful use of each component demonstrates how secondary parts can become critical flavor elements, capturing the essence of the sea in multiple dimensions.
SCAMPI RAVIOLI, FOIE GRAS SAUCE WITH BLACK TRUFFLE 螯虾意大利饺子配鹅肝酱和黑松露
Chef Tongourian’s iconic dish features magnificent Norwegian langoustines – “with shell and head, 300 grams per piece.” They yield generous tails that are gently rolled in chopped French truffle and sesame seeds before being sautéed. Cross-cultural inspiration manifests in the preparation of what Tongourian calls “dumplings, but with a French style.” The ravioli rest atop butter-cooked Savoy cabbage, accompanied by a technically brilliant sauce of langoustine bouillon reduced and enriched with foie gras butter, creating a delicate foam. Before serving, the ravioli are glazed with foie gras sauce and finished with julienned truffle. “Three flavors – truffle, langoustine, and foie gras – mixed for good balance,” notes Tongourian, referencing the famous philosophy of his mentor, Joël Robuchon.
Using the humble beetroot, Chef Degeimbre’s composition demonstrates his integration of Korean and European influences. The centerpiece is a sophisticated tartlet filled with beetroot confit intensified with orange juice, soy sauce, and star anise. A jangajji ribbon made with Korean preservation techniques crowns the base, and, showcasing his waste-minimizing approach, leftover beetroot becomes a gochujang-spiced mousse. Accompanying this vibrant preparation is house-pickled biquinho pepper “from our garden.” The protein element reveals Degeimbre’s technical mastery: “squab cooked for more than four hours at 50˚C,” then smoked and glazed with a complex mix of “beef garum, squab jus, brown butter, and smoked butter.” A sauce crafted from squab bones completes this thoughtful expression of cross-cultural technique.
Chef Julien Tongourian’s finale honors his mentor Joël Robuchon through eloquent minimalism. Premium Japanese strawberries – Macau’s finest seasonal treasure – appear in multiple textures within a sculpted strawberry-chocolate shell, each one brightened by lime’s gentle acidity for perfect balance. This architectural composition rests on a translucent strawberry jelly, crowned with delicate sugar artistry. In line with Robuchon’s philosophy, the dessert speaks volumes in just three harmonious flavors, proving that restraint often reveals the most profound culinary poetry.
William Drew, at the heart of the global culinary landscape, is one of gastronomy’s most compelling narrators.
AS THE HEAD OF EDITORIAL for The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, William Drew doesn’t just compile lists – he curates connections, champions authenticity, and captures the essence of what makes dining transcend mere sustenance.
“The greatest chefs are also the greatest storytellers,” he says, relaxing into our conversation. “As an organization, we in turn try to pass on their stories as well as share those of the chefs themselves. Storytelling is part of what they’re doing – storytelling through food.”
In the world’s most celebrated kitchens, this narrative approach is everywhere. Consider Hong Kong’s Mono, where each dish functions as a memoir chapter, or Paul Pairet’s recently closed Ultraviolet in Shanghai, which Drew describes as “extraordinary storytelling in a multisensory manner.” With just eight seats per service, this almost-impossible-to-book venue repeatedly ranked among the top ten of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, a testament in the eyes of many to the list’s integrity. For Drew, the essence of an exceptional restaurant transcends the food itself. “I’m a great believer in the way it makes you feel when you’re in the restaurant before you’ve even had a bite,” he says with conviction. “That makes everything taste better, quite literally and scientifically. It’s the way the team makes you feel, the way they treat you. It’s still a people business.”
作为「世界 50 最佳餐厅」的编辑主管, William Drew 的工作远不止于编制榜单 他精心编织着与大家的关系,推崇真诚,捕捉 让餐饮超越单纯果腹之需的本质精髓。 William 说:「最伟大的厨师也是最伟大 的故事讲述者。相应地,我们也试图讲述这些 故事,以及厨师们的故事。叙事是他们工作的 一部分 通过食物来讲述故事。」
Such a philosophy aligns with the views of industry pioneers like Danny Meyer and Will Guidara, whose books on hospitality have become industry touchstones. What’s more, Drew, who has witnessed the evolution of dining cultures across continents, holds a perspective uniquely informed through a global lens.
Nowhere is this evolution more evident than in Asia, where 50 Best launched its regional list in 2013. “We’ve seen an increased excitement about authentic Asian cuisines rather than overly adapted ones,” notes Drew. “In the twentieth century, there was the colonial model where everything got adapted for local tastes. Now there’s more interest in authenticity.”
The search for culinary truth moves in multiple directions. While Asian cuisines gain global appreciation for their classic expressions, Western cuisines in Asia have evolved toward greater specificity – not
对 William 而言,一家好餐厅的精髓远超 于食物本身。他坚定地说:「我相信,在你品 尝第一口食物之前,餐厅带给你的感受已至关 重要。这确实能让一切味道更加美妙,从字面 和科学角度上都是如此。这关乎团队带给你的 感受,他们对待你的方式。餐饮业终究还是以 人为本的行业。」
这一理念与 Danny Meyer 和 Will Guidara 等业界先驱不谋而合,他们的餐饮服务著作已 成为行业的试金石。然而,William 的视角独 具全球视野,他见证了不同地区的餐饮文化演 变。
“People are traveling to different parts of the world, wanting to discover new cuisines in a deeper way. That can only be a positive thing.
消费者为美食而旅行,渴望以更深层次的方式 发现新美食。这是一件积极的事情。”
William Drew
merely “Italian” restaurants but Roman or Piedmontese. At the same time, fusion continues its own sophisticated development. A case in point is Singapore’s Odette, where French techniques increasingly incorporate Asian ingredients and influences.
The pandemic, Drew reflects, has accelerated another profound shift in restaurant culture: “The thing that came out of it was a greater respect for people. That’s largely internal – how the restaurant world treats its own is super-important. The pandemic brought that into sharp focus.”
This people-centered approach has manifested in concrete changes: more four-day work weeks, less acceptance of grueling split shifts, and service that adapts to customers rather than imposing rigid standards. “The thing we’ve learned is a greater focus on human sustainability,” says Drew.
As head of editorial, he oversees content across video, social media, written storytelling, and live events. While the lists remain the vital heart of the organization, the mission has expanded to include promoting best practices and showcasing positive forces in the food world.
“We’ve earned a degree of credibility,” he says, “but with that comes responsibility. We see it as our job to push those agendas forward – to tell great stories through food, and food is one of those things that bring people together.”
50 Best’s editorial direction extends to the special awards categories that provide platforms for hospitality excellence, sustainability champions, and outstanding female chefs. These honors have empowered influential ambassadors who spread positive impact throughout the industry.
Drew cites the late Margarita Forés, Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2016, as exemplifying this ripple effect: “She was already an amazing professional figure in the Philippines, but the recognition gave her the opportunity to have a positive influence across Asia and internationally. We just helped her do that.”
One thing remarkable about the 50 Best community is the way it transforms potential competitiveness into camaraderie. Despite the high-stakes ranking system, the events maintain nearly full attendance by chefs who return year after year with their teams. Drew credits this to an approach that celebrates everyone equally, regardless of their place on the list.
“The ranking is more of a device that attracts attention – people love a list,” he says. “It creates excitement on the night, but those chefs and restaurateurs who’ve been around for a while understand that whether you’re 25 or 35 doesn’t matter. Being part of the community and the friendships they make matter more.”
When asked about the legacy of 50 Best’s first decades, Drew doesn’t hesitate: “It’s the community. People are traveling to different parts of the world, wanting to discover new cuisines in a deeper way. That can only be a positive thing.”
In a world increasingly influenced by artificial intelligence and aggregation, Drew remains committed to human expertise and experience. “We are expert-curated, and that’s a kind of USP of what we do,” he insists. “The human experience remains supremely important – perhaps more important than ever.”
By the time our conversation wraps up, it has become apparent that Drew himself exemplifies the storytelling prowess he celebrates in chefs. By creating not just lists but narratives, he and his team have transformed restaurant rankings from competition into cultural conversation, an exchange that continues to reshape how we understand food, hospitality, and our shared human experience around the table.
THIS YEAR’S LIST OF ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS DEMONSTRATES ONCE AGAIN
TOPPING
HONORING THE CRÈME DE LA CRÈME of the continent’s chefs, pastry chefs, and sommeliers, Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 awards took place in Seoul on March 25. This year’s announcement ceremony, held in the South Korean capital for the second year in a row, was particularly spirited, with new friends and old enjoying the chance to celebrate the thirteenth edition of the annual event. Claiming the No. 1 spot, along with the title of The Best Restaurant in Asia 2025, was Gaggan in Bangkok.
Restaurants from sixteen cities across Asia made it onto this year’s roster. The biggest rivalry of the night was between Tokyo and Bangkok, with the two cities running neck and neck at nine restaurants each. Perennially popular dining meccas Hong Kong and Singapore won seven rankings each, and Shanghai and the host city came in at four apiece.
The awards continue to showcase an increasing diversity of locations, with solo winners from Macau, Manila, Fukuoka and Osaka in Japan, Jakarta, Mumbai and New Delhi in India, Taipei and Taichung in Taiwan, and, for the first time, Beijing.
Across the region, chefs are redefining traditional cuisines by
THAT THE REGION’S DINING LANDSCAPE RANKS AMONG THE WORLD’S MOST EXCITING.
ASIA
balancing heritage with innovation. Restaurants like Bangkok’s Nusara (No. 6) and Le Du (formerly No. 1, currently No. 20), as well as Masque in Mumbai (No. 19), Onjium in Seoul (No. 10), and Toyo Eatery in Manila (No. 42) showcase local ingredients and traditional dishes but present them with a contemporary sensibility.
Theatricality makes a return this year, most notably at Gaggan, where dining involves pyrotechnics, loud music, storytelling, and audience participation. At Potong (No. 13), led by chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij (who was last year’s Asia’s Best Female Chef and is this year’s World’s Best Female Chef), a miniature street stall trolley plays music, and at Labyrinth in Singapore (No. 37), guests shave their own ice for desserts served tableside.
Sustainability is a growing concern for many of the region’s restaurants, with chefs looking to both wisdom of the past and cutting-edge approaches to reduce their impact on the planet. From sourcing produce from local, small-scale farmers to promoting staff wellness, chefs are increasingly recognizing the need to support communities inside and outside the restaurant walls.
THIS FULL-THROTTLE, immersive fourteen-seater by Gaggan Anand blazed into the top position this year, earning the title of The Best Restaurant in Asia for a record fifth time, first winning it in 2015.
“I didn’t expect coming back again,” says Anand. “It’s an unpredictable list, but to come back gives me confidence. What we’re doing as a restaurant is very radical. The only secret is to stick to what you believe and keep evolving. And if the world loves it, we’re happy.”
Gaggan blends progressive Indian cuisine with influences from Japan, France, and Thailand. His menu of more than twenty courses, with an artisanal wine pairing, unfolds like a performance, with theatrical lighting, pounding music, and a flame torch putting the final touch to a dish in a pitchblack room. In curse-laden storytelling that covers topics ranging from the food system to rock ’n’ roll, diners are cajoled into licking plates, eating vegetarian “rat’s brain,” and taking part in quizzes.
“We take people away from today’s ‘fine dining’ and bring them to food, entertainment, music, and my character,” says Anand. “I’m doing what I’m doing, and this award shows that what we’re doing is not wrong.”
RESTAURATEUR DANNY YIP, who last year won the prestigious Icon Award for his contribution to revealing the essence of authentic Cantonese cuisine, travels every month to villages across Hong Kong and southern China to hunt out hidden ingredients – from small river crabs to twenty-year-pickled lemons – that he features in his creative dishes. Opened fifteen years ago, The Chairman remains a frontrunner in local sourcing and ingredient-focused Chinese cuisine.
“We’ve always used as many local Hong Kong ingredients as possible, including local chickens, pigs, vegetables, fruits like pomelo, and whatever comes in from the fishing boats overnight,” says Yip. “These all have distinctive flavors, and we want to showcase and preserve them.”
In 2021, The Chairman was the first Chinese restaurant to place No. 1 on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list and to break into the top ten among The World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Yip moved The Chairman to its new address in Hong Kong’s Central in 2022, styling the dining room with plenty of plants and bookshelves to give the feeling of eating comfortably at home. The culinary approach is the same, however, and signature favorites like steamed crab with Huadiao wine remain on the menu.
WING, chef-owner Vicky Cheng’s elegant fine-dining restaurant, keeps going from strength to strength. Not only did the restaurant, known for its modern takes on classics from the eight great cuisines of China, come in at No. 3 this year but Cheng himself took home the respected Inedit Damm Chefs’ Choice Award 2025.
“Ascending in rank is always a wonderful feeling,” he says, “but I also feel perhaps even more blessed to have been honored with the Chefs’ Choice Award, voted on by my peers. Knowing that I have the support of my chef friends and industry colleagues who believe in me – it’s a great position to be in.”
Wing also triumphed at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2024 awards held in Las Vegas last June, when it swooped into twentieth place and picked up the Highest New Entry Award.
Cheng, who grew up in Canada, trained in the French culinary tradition. A decade ago, he returned to Hong Kong, the city of his birth, and opened Vea, where he features Chinese ingredients in French-inspired dishes. With a twenty-year background in French fine dining, he never expected to open a Chinese restaurant, but, after returning to his roots, he taught himself how to
master the Chinese repertoire. “We should continually strive for excellence,” he says. “No matter how good we are, we must never stay still.”
During the pandemic, he opened Wing, which is Cheng’s Chinese name and represents hope and perseverance. Guests there are welcomed with a seasonal tea, which in spring may be a corn and sugar cane infusion to celebrate the rising temperatures and the “awakening of the insects.”
Diners then move through ten or so beautifully presented courses, including sumptuous signatures like fragrant Chilli Alaskan King Crab with Crispy Cheung Fun, stunning Golden Crystal Egg with Chilli Oyster with its glossy and transparent egg white, Firefly Squid with Yunnan Chilli and Bull Kelp, and Baby Pigeon Glazed with Sugar Cane.
His menus invariably also include what Cheng describes as his favorite ingredient, fish maw. “I love everything about
it,” he says. His Abalone Sauce Fish Maw Rice takes about five days to make, including steaming the aged, dried maw, steeping it in cold and then hot water, refrigerating it, and repeating the process. Once pliable, it is braised in abalone sauce. The fish maw rests on short-grain rice with yellow fungus from China’s Yunnan province.
Courses are paired with wines sourced from around the world. The beverage list features an impressive selection of Champagnes, particularly vintage Krug, plus Chinese wines, baijiu, and sake.
Cheng credits constant innovation and revisiting of classics, along with making guests the top priority, as the secret to Wing’s success. “We always keep track of how many times our patrons have visited,” he says, “and we train our staff to ensure that each return feels like coming home, with new experiences, menus, and dishes.”
NAMED THE BEST RESTAURANT IN ASIA 2024, Sézanne serves contemporary French food made with exceptional Japanese ingredients. For Daniel Calvert, the ferociously talented chef behind this three-Michelin-star restaurant, maintaining excellence is all about training.
“The team I trained then trains the next team,” he says, “and as long as everyone is treating the restaurant like it’s their own and training everybody to a high standard then that’s the way it works. Of course I have to stay here and align everything – it’s like two trains, one on the straight track and the other one slightly to the left, and you’ve got to keep realigning it.”
CHEF MINGOO KANG began his career in the Western culinary tradition, working around the world in such top restaurants as three-Michelin-star Martín Berasategui in Spain.
Then he immersed himself in his heritage by training with Buddhist monk Jeong Kwan and the “godmother” of Korean cooking, Cho Hee-sook. At Mingles, Kang blends European cooking with traditional Korean cuisine, known as hansik, including the fermented soybean sauces, known as jang, that are its cornerstone.
“I want to expand the boundaries of Korean food but keep the essence of Korean flavors by respecting the jang,” he says. “Chefs need to appeal to a younger audience, but it’s important that they respect tradition and culture.”
Jang even makes it into Kang’s signature sweet, Jang Trio, which includes the three most important condiments in the Korean culinary lexicon in a dessert of doenjang crème brulée, ganjangmarinated pecans, gochujang, vanilla ice cream, and whisky foam.
IN AN IMPRESSIVE ASCENT, opulent Cantonese restaurant Chef Tam’s Seasons at Macau’s Wynn Palace leapt forty spots to ninth position. Chef Tam Kwok Fung has more than thirty years of experience, including stints in China, Thailand, and Hong Kong, and has cooked for some of the world’s top dignitaries and members of the Thai, Japanese, and Nepalese royal families.
“I’m deeply humbled and grateful that Chef Tam’s Seasons is helping to put Macau’s vibrant culinary scene on the world map,” he says. “The jump in our ranking is a reflection of our team’s dedication and passion. Our success stems from our commitment to continual learning and adaptation, especially when the gastronomic world is changing so rapidly. I have never stopped learning, and the same goes for my team – they’re just as motivated as I am and always stay inspired.”
Tam changes his menu every fifteen days in sync with the twenty-four solar periods in the Chinese calendar, an ancient system of knowledge based on the sun’s position, seasonal changes, and cyclical weather conditions, that informs traditional farming.
“In Cantonese cuisine, seasonal ingredients play a vital role,” says Tam, “and I find it fascinating to interpret these traditions through the lens of seasonal cooking, expressing the idea of eating in harmony with the seasons in a meaningful way.”
Tam visits local markets five times a week to learn from stallholders what is available on a daily basis. In the Cantonese approach, cooking methods also change seasonally. Warmer summer weather calls for lighter fare with more vegetables like gourds that help cool the body. In autumn and winter, when people are said to crave richer flavors, Tam incorporates more braised dishes and uses heartier ingredients. For example, in autumn, the old-school snack of gwo zaa, or deep-fried egg custard, bursts with the taste of seasonal hairy crab.
DAVID HARTUNG
Tam’s focus on seasonality is also connected to sustainability. He and his team study market trends and the lifestyles and preferences of diners of different age groups, which helps them tailor their dishes and menus. He has found that diners are increasingly focused on health over extravagant ingredients, and on lessening the negative impacts on the environment.
“By celebrating seasonal ingredients,” he says, “we support ecological balance and align our practices with natural agricultural cycles. This approach not only honors our cultural and culinary traditions but also allows guests to enjoy food at its peak freshness and nutritional value. It provides them with a diverse and authentic dining experience that reflects the changing seasons.”
Being so seasonally focused allows for constant evolution. “My team and I continually strive for excellence and recognize that there’s always room for improvement,” he says. “That’s why we’ve always maintained a lifelong learning mentality.”
CHEF SON JONG-WON’S EATANIC GARDEN, overlooking Seoul from the thirty-sixth floor of Josun Palace Hotel, burst onto the list for the first time at No. 25.
There is no menu, only an illustrated guide to key ingredients, with a memory or reflection from someone on the Eatanic Garden team written on the back. “I want the guest to know that I’m not doing this by myself,” says Son.
Eatanic Garden’s Korean food with a creative spin puts the focus on fermentation and aging, offering inventive dishes like Hanwoo beef served three ways alongside fermented cauliflower and winter vegetables shaped like pristine snowflakes.
“Previously, I didn’t appreciate my culture as I do now,” says Son. “But I studied it, and the more I learned, the more I respect and love it. I think that’s what chefs should be doing – finding their roots, not just in food but in culture too.”
The supremely talented chef behind Baan Tepa in Bangkok (No. 44) is known as much for her farm-driven food and her sustainability ethics, including a low-waste kitchen, as she is for her stunningly elegant dishes that reimagine Thai cuisine.
While Chudaree “Tam” Debhakam has worked in male-dominated kitchens, at one point, hers at Baan Tepa was staffed by an all-female cast of chefs. “I may be biased,” she says, “but to me, female chefs have a lighter touch and a focus on detail, and they’re more sensitive to other people. When you go into a gender-balanced kitchen, everyone is more at ease, and people express themselves more. There’s not less pressure but less unnecessary pressure.”
Her message to budding women chefs is buoyant: “This is the time – the acceptance level may not yet be equal, but if you want it badly enough, you can do it.”
Thai-born pâtissier Dej Kewkacha first studied math, then tourism, before launching Kacha Brothers with his siblings at the age of twenty-two. The company now runs more than fifty outlets, including Kyo Bar, Thailand’s first and only dessert bar serving a seasonal “omakase” menu.
Today, Kewkacha commands the pastry kitchen at Gaggan at Louis Vuitton (No. 31) in Bangkok. “I’ve known Gaggan for more than a decade,” he says, “and I’m very familiar with his cooking philosophy. My desserts, using French techniques on Thai ingredients, have a taste profile matched to chef Gaggan’s Indian flavors.
“I think the notion that pastry chefs play second fiddle may no longer be true. Leaving customers with a good last impression is so crucial.”
THE MOST EMOTIONAL MOMENT at this year’s awards came with the bestowal of the Icon Award to the late Margarita Forés. The honor, which recognizes those who have made an outstanding contribution to the hospitality industry, recognized her transformative influence and her legacy of elevating Filipino cuisine.
In accepting the award on her behalf, Forés’s son, Amado, remarked, “My mom always said her life purpose was simple – to make the world more beautiful and delicious for others.”
Forés was selected Asia’s Best Female Chef 2016, became a Knight of the Order of the Star of Italy in 2018, and was named Ambassador for Gastronomic Tourism in 2019 by the United Nations.
Throughout her three decades in gastronomy, she was known for supporting local farmers, fishers, and artisans and for showcasing Philippine culinary heritage on the world stage through her restaurants, including Lusso.
She was also acclaimed for her innovative fusion of Italian and Filipino cuisines and for her restaurant chain CIBO , which introduced authentic Italian food to Filipino diners.
At Jin Sha, a culinary artist has been quietly shaping Hangzhou’s dining landscape for more than a decade.
EDDIE
AND
Hazelnut duck liver mousse, spring onion pancakes, green apple
BY
CHEUNG
JOEY CHEANG • PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake 杭州西子湖四季酒店一隅
NAMED CHEF OF THE YEAR 2022 by The Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, Jin Sha’s Senior Executive Chinese Chef Wang Yong has also won three Black Pearl diamonds and a Michelin star for the acclaimed Zhejiang-cuisine restaurant at Four Seasons Hotel Hangzhou at West Lake.
Unfazed by such accolades, he remains focused instead on the essence and evolution of each of his carefully crafted dishes, creations that, like his culinary philosophy, may seem deceptively simple but are in fact profoundly nuanced.
Wang’s career has traced a steady course from a somewhat accidental entry into the profession to his current reputation as a guardian of Hangzhou cuisine. “From 1991 until now, I’ve never left this industry,” he says. Born to parents who were “sent-down youth,” he grew up in Jiangxi before returning to Shanghai with his family and eventually settling in Hangzhou fifteen years ago and forging a deep connection with the city’s food culture. Along the way, Shanghaibased chef Tony Lu of the Fu restaurant group became a pivotal influence that shaped his approach to cooking.
Double-boiled white fungus syrup, lily bulb, osmanthus
When asked which dish best reflects his life story, Chef Wang chooses braised pork, a Jin Sha signature. “From raw ingredient to finished dish, the pork undergoes steaming, shaping, and slow braising to absorb flavors fully,” he says. “It’s like my own journey –starting as a blank slate, being shaped by experiences, and gradually becoming my best self.” The dish’s magic lies in its sweet-savory equilibrium, a lesson in balance that Chef Wang applies to his team as well: “I rarely overexplain. I prefer finding subtle ways to convey understanding.”
Jin Sha’s menu, blending Hangzhou traditions with contemporary touches, has been called “Song dynasty poetry on the palate.” His Mashed Broad Bean with Xiangchun, Soft-Boiled Egg, and Sea
Urchin, for example, is a classic Jiangzhe dish reimagined as a delightful chilled delicacy. Heightened with sea urchin’s sweetness and mellowed by broad-bean purée, it preserves the distinct aroma of toon sprouts. “If I can’t improve a dish, I stay true to its roots,” says the chef. “But where possible, I reinterpret.”
The menu also deeply respects Jiangnan’s time-honored seasonal eating philosophy. In spring, shepherd’s purse, ma lan tou greens, and river snails star as regional treasures, and before the East China Sea fishing moratorium, oily fish lent themselves to featured seafood dishes. Even summer’s limited harvest inspires creativity – defying the “light flavors only” convention. “Overly bland food kills the appetite,” says Wang. “Balanced boldness, with acidity or spice, can be more refreshing in heat.”
Although esteemed as an authority on Hangzhou cuisine, Chef Wang avoids preachiness: “We let dishes speak for themselves – their charm unfolds naturally.” And of his honors, he’s characteristically grounded: “Recognition validates effort, but not everyone gets the platform to be seen.”
For many Hangzhou natives, Jin Sha has become part of life’s fabric. One guest, who first dined here in high school, returns religiously during visits home, retracing flavors tied to life milestones, from studying abroad to parenthood. “We’re not just a restaurant,” Chef Wang muses. “We’re a repository of memories, a culinary touchstone.”
Chef Wang’s restrained yet forward-looking approach, which is writing a new chapter in Hangzhou cuisine, ensures that its thousand-year legacy will continue to shine.
After a busy night, three close colleagues at Aji sit down together to relax, share their thoughts, and savor a moment with The Macallan.
BY LORRIA SAHMET
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY
DAVID HARTUNG
AS THE FINAL GUESTS slip out of Aji –MGM COTAI ’s modern Asian bistronomy concept – the energy shifts. The dining room stills. In the open kitchen, the intensity of service gives way to a quieter rhythm.
Chef de Cuisine Pan Sihui steps out from the pass. The evening’s tasting menu – a blend of classical French technique and vibrant Asian flavors – has run its course. As the brilliant mind behind Aji’s first Michelin star, he creates dishes that reflect both childhood memories and his global culinary journey. Everyone on the team calls him Papa Pan. He joins Restaurant Manager Katrina Saulog – known affectionately as Mama Kat – at a curved banquette beneath Aji’s signature wave-like lighting. A quiet smile passes between them. The night is over, but the moment is just beginning.
MGM’s Assistant Director of Beverages Andy Tam arrives with a bottle of The Macallan. More than a meetup, this is shared ritual. “Some nights call for sherry warmth,” Andy says, pouring three measured drams. “Others, spice or smoke. But tonight feels classic.”
They raise their glasses. A soft clink. A quiet breath.
“That first sip – it marks the shift. You’re no longer thinking about timing or plates. You’re just here.
第一口入喉,便是角色转换的仪式。不用再思量上 菜时序或餐盘装饰,只是纯粹地活在当下。”
Pan Sihui
潘思荟
Restaurant Manager Katrina Saulog
Katrina Saulog
Assistant Director of Beverages Andy Tam 助理饮品总监谭颖恒
Pan: That first sip – it marks the shift. You’re no longer thinking about timing or plates. You’re just here.
Katrina: The pressure lifts. You start to feel the night, not just manage it.
Andy: Like whisky, service reveals itself in layers. You only see the whole picture afterward.
Aji’s approach echoes this philosophy. Pan’s cooking is about innovation, balance, and clarity – flavors that speak without shouting. The experience is designed, but never rigid. It leaves room for interpretation.
Pan: That’s why I like The Macallan. There’s control in the way it’s made. But also character. It doesn’t need to impress. It just holds.
Andy: Same as your menu. It respects technique, but it’s personal. It knows where it’s from.
Pan: And like a good dish, a good whisky doesn’t try too hard. It’s confident, not loud.
美高梅助理饮品总监谭颖恒带着一瓶 The Macallan 威士忌翩然而至。这不是例行公事,而是团 队间心照不宣的习惯。「有些夜晚适合雪莉桶的温润」 谭颖恒说着斟出三份恰到好处的威士忌,「有些需要烟 熏或辛香的点缀。但今晚,应是经典的味道。」
他们举杯轻碰,脆响如珠落玉盘,又如一声轻叹。
“That’s why I like working with The Macallan. It gives you room to play, without losing structure.
我也因此喜欢The Macallan威士忌。
它给予创作者自由,却始终以结构为锚。”
Andy Tam 谭颖恒
The conversation flows easily. The room, now empty, feels lighter but still warm. The team’s connection – built through countless services – is casual, but close. As they sip, ideas for a new pairing menu with The Macallan begin to take shape, blending their shared creativity with the whisky’s timeless character.
Katrina: These moments matter. We come back to ourselves. We talk like friends, not roles.
Pan: It’s how we reset. How we remember what we’re doing this for.
Andy: And the whisky helps. It slows things down. Gives us space.
They sip again. The Macallan opens slowly, revealing notes of oak and dried fruit – no different from a dish revealing itself one ingredient at a time.
Pan: Pairing whisky isn’t easy. So many strong characters. But when it works, it really works.
Andy: That’s why I like working with The Macallan. It gives you room to play, without losing structure.
Pan: Same with cooking. You find the balance, you hold the line, and then you let it go.
The bottle sits between them. The moment isn’t about the drink – it’s about what the drink allows.
Katrina: It started informally. But now it’s something we look forward to. A small pause. A reward.
Andy: A good digestif doesn’t make a statement. It just finishes the night well.
Pan: Whether it’s whisky or cuisine, the goal is the same. Care, balance, and something worth remembering.
They raise their glasses once more. No fanfare. Just a shared understanding between people who care about what they do.
At Wing Lei Bar, Mark Lloyd’s innovative mixology bridges cultures, making the venue an ambassador for Macau’s emerging cocktail scene.
“SOME DRINKS just contain favorite flavors of mine,” says Head Mixologist Mark Lloyd of Wynn Palace Macau’s Wing Lei Bar. “The Yuenyueng is inspired by going to the cha chaan teng and having breakfast – taking something local and making it mine.” This approach has produced standouts like the technically accomplished Cola Cube and the playful Melon Ball, which Lloyd describes as a “disco drink.”
The signature menu highlights Lloyd’s creativity across four distinct categories, each with fan favorites. From “Classics,” the Sidecar emerges as a clear winner, revolutionizing this timeless cocktail with a combination of croissant-washed cognac, Cointreau, and yuzu honey syrup. The “Alternatini” section showcases Lloyd’s favored Yuenyueng, a cultural nod to Macau with pineapple rum, Mr Black, espresso, black tea, and pineapple syrup. Under “Sours,” the Melon Ball captivates with rum, Midori, falernum, lemon, and house-made Irn Bru orgeat. The “Stirred” category is anchored by the Cola Cube, a bourbon-based drink with Penja pepper and cola bitters that remarkably delivers the flavor of Coca-Cola without containing any cola.
BY JOHN NG
「有些酒款只是装载着我钟爱的风味。」澳门永利皇宫永 利吧的首席调酒师 Mark Lloyd 这样描述他的创作理念。 「Yuenyueng(鸳鸯)的灵感源自茶餐厅的早餐 将 澳门日常生活的文化记忆转化为调酒语言。」这种理念 催生了以精湛技艺调制而成的 Cola Cube 与充满玩味的 Melon Ball,后者被 Mark 戏称为「Disco 饮品」。Mark 的调酒不仅是技艺的展现,更是一种文化表 达,赋予每一杯酒独特的故事和灵魂。
• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG
Lloyd tours with these creations globally. “I travel with Yuenyueng because it’s the easy entrance to my world,” he says.
招牌酒单以四大类别展现 Mark 的创意 疆界。「经典风格」系列中,Sidecar 以可颂 洗干邑搭配君度橙酒与柚子蜂蜜糖浆,重 塑这款永恒经典;「马天尼酒」部分中主打 澳门风情的 Yuenyueng,混合菠萝朗姆酒、
Mr Black 咖啡利口酒、浓缩咖啡、红茶和菠萝糖浆; 「酸鸡尾酒」系列的 Melon Ball 用朗姆酒、蜜瓜利口酒、 法勒诺姆酒、柠檬和自制的 Irn Bru 杏仁糖浆赋予活泼 个性;而「搅拌酒」系列的 Cola Cube 不着一滴可乐, 仅凭 Penja 胡椒与可乐苦精便复刻出可乐风味。
Mark 带着这些创意作品走向世界。他解释:「我 总带着 Yuenyueng 到世界各地客席交流,它就像进入 我世界的通行证。人人都知道浓缩咖啡马天尼,借此讲 述澳门故事就水到渠成。」从新加坡、温哥华到即将启
Mark Lloyd
“Everyone knows an espresso martini, so it’s accessible while letting me explain Macau.” Having taken this message to Singapore and Vancouver – with Vietnam next – Lloyd notes, “The hardest thing is letting people know there’s more to Macau than just casinos.”
This cultural exchange works both ways. Wing Lei Bar has invited acclaimed teams for guest shifts, including Liverpool’s Bar Glue, whose community-focused, story-driven approach has inspired Lloyd’s team. “Bar Glue taught the team how to turn personal experiences into something that tells a story,” says Lloyd. Cross-collaborations with Wynn’s restaurants have produced innovative offerings like pigeon and char siu martinis for the menu at the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant – Chef Tam’s Seasons.
Looking forward, Lloyd’s 2025 Culinary-inspired Cocktail Series will further blur the lines between food and drink with quarterly drink menu rotations showcasing different culinary approaches. Each cocktail will be paired with complementary small bites, breaking down traditional barriers between bar and kitchen.
With Asia’s 50 Best Bars on the horizon, Lloyd remains focused: “Making Wing Lei Bar a good bar, a fun bar, is number one for me. It’s about building a space that people talk about – if you go to Macau, you have to come here.”
面对即将公布的「亚洲 50 最佳酒吧」榜单, Mark 依然保持初心:「对我来说,让永利吧成为一家 有趣的酒吧是首要任务。关键是要打造一个大家津津 乐道的空间 如果你去澳门,就一定要来这里。」
Melon Ball Breakfast Gimlet Pandantini Away Colors (from left to right)
投币之后 幸福流动
coin-op happiness
Vender, crowned The Best Bar in Taiwan 2024, blends playfulness, creativity, and human connection into a cross-cultural, multisensory odyssey.
TUCKED AWAY IN TAICHUNG’S WEST DISTRICT, Vender greets guests with a retro vending machine. Guests insert a coin for a welcoming Singapore Sling and embark on a journey that combines innovation with childlike wonder.
In addition to its Best Bar in Taiwan title, Vender holds the rank of number 30 on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2024. It is the brainchild of Summer Chen, who, along with her partner, Darren Lim, opened the bar after returning from Singapore to her native Taiwan.
BY JULIE TU
Their idea was to reference the popularity and ubiquity of vending machines by reimagining the conventional bar experience with a “vending happiness” philosophy. Besides Vender’s creative cocktail menu, just a twist of the capsule machine delivers a randomly crafted drink. This “game of fate” infuses each cocktail with delightful unpredictability and transforms guests from passive drinkers into active participants.
As a Singapore-inspired bar rooted in Taiwan, Vender enriches every design detail and cocktail concept with cross-cultural storytelling, reinventing tradition in a way that feels local and personal. For example, the Vender Sling, the bar’s signature take on the Singapore classic, retains the drink’s fruity, refreshing, slightly herbal flavor profile while thoughtfully replacing ingredients with ones found in both Singapore and Taiwan and that produce similar tasting notes. The result is a unique cultural bridge with a flavor twist that’s fresh, unexpected, and true to Vender’s identity.
The bar’s handcrafted cocktail menu, housed in a treasure box of twelve compartments that hold real ingredients, turns the selection process into a tactile exploration of sight, scent, and emotion. This ingenious artistry encapsulates Vender’s redefinition of cocktail culture into a harmony of technical mastery and joyous narrative experience.
With no flashy gimmicks and no empty theatrics, Vender trades in pure, back-to-basics delight. It’s a place where one drink can reignite the belief that happiness might be just a coin-drop away.
MACAU HOSTS MORE LUXURY HOTELS than any other cityscape in the world, and almost all of these prestigious properties are located within spectacular casino complexes. So how does a Mandarin Oriental hotel, as part of a beloved global five-star brand, manage to stand out and maintain momentum while operating outside of Macau’s so-called “casino economy”?
Although Mandarin Oriental, Macau, is proudly celebrating its fifteenth anniversary this year, the brand, in fact, has had a presence in Macau for more than four decades. The first location was the property known today as Artyzen
Grand Lapa Macau, and the Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group also managed the Bela Vista, the much-loved (and greatly missed) eight-suite boutique hotel in a historic landmark building.
Mandarin is a brand close to the hearts of many who call Macau home, and especially its loyal staff. There’s a palpable emphasis on the holistic well-being of every member of the hotel’s team, reflected in the way colleagues talk of each other as family all on the same path – the pursuit of quiet excellence. The sense of community is reinforced by the staff’s impressive number of Long Service Awards, the
General Manager Franck Droin
fifteen
five-star years 东方雅韵 岁月鎏金
An anchor across generations, the Mandarin brand holds a special place in the hearts of Macau’s residents and visitors alike.
BY ANNABEL JACKSON
• PHOTOGRAPHY
DAVID HARTUNG
BY
recipients of which choose their own gift – a lovely silk scarf, perhaps –and then proudly affix a different-colored trademark Mandarin fan pin to their lapel, representing five years of service, or twenty, or longer.
Director of People & Culture Gloria Ma joined the team in 1994 as food and beverage secretary. Her father, who was himself employed in the Macau hotel industry, commented that if she wanted to enter this sector, there was only one choice: “Work for Mandarin!”
Ling Fung, who had never before stepped inside a five-star hotel, joined the team in 1995, as an order taker in housekeeping. Today she is executive assistant to the hotel manager, and, along with Ma, is part of the community engagement team. This group of colleagues participates in
a diverse range of activities, from hiking outings to visiting elderly homes, that are designed to break down any hierarchical barriers and enhance the sense of team togetherness.
For General Manager Franck Droin, it’s this spirit that helps set the hotel apart. He joined the property two years ago, though he has been with Mandarin Oriental Hotel Group for nine years. In Macau, he puts an emphasis on sustainability initiatives, including local sourcing, the elimination of single-use plastics, and the development of a hydroponic system for growing vegetables.
In the midst of the madness that is sometimes Macau, another of the hotel’s outstanding features is that no one here is rushed. Guests are guaranteed a good night’s sleep, and they are free to relax over a cup of herbal tea, watch a television series through in-room entertainment, or enjoy a leisurely bowl of laksa made according to a recipe from the chefs at Mandarin Oriental, Singapore.
With just 213 guest rooms and suites, Mandarin
Oriental, Macau, is an intimate property that smiles and never shouts. The lighting is muted, the music gentle, and the conversation just a soft buzz.
The hotel is Macau’s go-to spot for weddings, banquets, and birthday gatherings (as well as extraordinary birthday cakes!). Parents who bring their children for an afternoon tea treat fondly recall going to (the original) Mandarin Oriental with their own parents. Vida Rica restaurant, specializing in homemade dim sum and Oriental favorites (and, in the very spirit of Macau, adding a touch of Portuguese flavor), provides a peaceful environment for business lunches or family reunions. The Counter, a discreet section of fashionable Vida Rica Bar, is a favorite hideaway, and the open-plan Lobby Lounge is affectionately known as “Macau’s living room.”
With the entire community as one big fan, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, is more than just another five-star property in this buzzing city – it’s no less than a local treasure.
Executive Assistant to the Hotel Manager Ling Fung
ACROSS ITALY, AROUND THE TABLE
Belmond, a leader in luxury hospitality, brings together four of its most talented chefs to share their stories in a celebration of Italy’s vibrant regional cuisines.
BY MARK HAMMONS
FROM THE SUN-DRENCHED AMALFI COAST to the rolling hills of Tuscany, from Venice’s storied lagoon to the rugged peaks of Sicily, Italy is a land of culinary traditions as rich and diverse as its landscapes. To celebrate this, Belmond brought four of its most inspired chefs to Mandala Club in Singapore to share not just their cuisines but their philosophies – all of them rooted in seasonality, tradition, and the Italian art of savoring life.
More than a showcase of flavors, for Tasting Kitchen (TK), it was an invitation into their world. In conversation, these chefs revealed how memory, place, and passion shape their cooking, how time itself – whether in slow travel, lingering meals, or heritage techniques – is an essential ingredient. Through their stories, they offer a taste of Italy far beyond the plate, an experience infused with history, connection, and the joy of villeggiatura
BY CHEF ROBERTO TORO OTTO GELENG AT GRAND HOTEL TIMEO , A BELMOND HOTEL , TAORMINA
SICILY IS A LAND OF STORIES, told not in words but in flavors, in the embrace of a shared meal, in the scent of sun-drenched tomatoes, in the perfume of the sea. When I step into the kitchen, I am not just a chef – I am a storyteller, a custodian of memories woven into every dish. In Singapore, far from the cliffs of Taormina, I bring with me the soul of my island, a place where tradition and evolution dance in perfect harmony.
Sicilian cuisine is a mosaic of influences, a legacy of the many civilizations that have touched our shores. Perhaps none have left as indelible a mark as the Arabs. They gifted us ingredients that are now inseparable from our identity – eggplants, citrus, almonds, saffron. More than that, they gave us methods, like the balance of sweet and sour, a culinary alchemy that lingers in our caponata, where the bite of vinegar kisses the warmth of sugar, expressing both flavor and history.
For me, caponata is not just a recipe – it is my childhood, my grandmother’s kitchen, the sound of oil sizzling as eggplants turn golden in the pan, the aroma of tomatoes and capers mingling in the warm air. It is the dish that reminds me where I come from, and when I serve it, I am not just feeding guests – I am sharing a piece of my past, inviting them to sit at my family’s table to taste not just Sicily but my Sicily.
At Otto Geleng, we celebrate the beauty of simplicity. One dish that embodies my philosophy is Risotto with Cuttlefish, Zucchini Leaves, and Crusco Pepper. It is a reimagining of a humble peasant recipe, with tender zucchini leaves, once a simple ingredient from my childhood, elevated in a refined risotto. This dish is my way of honoring Sicilian tradition while shaping it into something new – a conversation between rustic authenticity and modern craftsmanship.
To innovate is not to discard the past but to understand it so intimately that it can be reinterpreted with respect. My foundation is always the raw, honest beauty of Sicilian ingredients: tomatoes ripened under the Mediterranean sun, the delicate brininess of just-caught seafood, the creamy sweetness of ricotta. These make up my palette, my history, my connection to home. When I create, I begin with the familiar and then push forward, incorporating subtle surprises – an unexpected texture, a whisper of a new spice – never to overpower, but to enhance, to reveal something unseen within the familiar.
But a meal is not just about what’s on the plate – it’s
about how it is given and received. In Sicily, food is a shared ritual, a gesture of welcome to a table laden with generosity. Sicilians have a way of making you feel at home, whether in a small village trattoria or at a grand feast by the sea. Hospitality is a way of life offered in the warm greeting at the door, the laughter that fills the dining room, the way a meal is never rushed but savored, every bite a pause in time. I want guests to feel as if they are part of something more than a dining experience, to feel the embrace of Sicily itself – its generosity, its passion, its unspoken invitation to linger just a little longer.
This is the Sicily I bring to Singapore. Not just a menu, but a love letter to my homeland –one plate at a time.
BY CHEF DANIELE SERA TOSCA AT CASTELLO DI CASOLE A BELMOND HOTEL , TUSCANY
TUSCANY IS A WAY OF LIFE, with a rhythm dictated by the sun that ripens our tomatoes, the rain that nourishes our olive groves, the hands that work the soil. At Tosca, within the storied walls of Castello di Casole, each season whispers its own story, and we honor it by crafting dishes that celebrate the moment, the land, and the heritage of those who came before us.
To cook with the land is to surrender to its wisdom. Our gardens, the Orti del Castello, offer the freshest vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers along with a lesson in patience, respect, and gratitude. I invite our guests to walk these gardens, to feel the soil beneath their feet, to witness the cycle of life that nourishes their plate. There’s something profoundly humbling about this connection that transforms a meal from mere sustenance into a deeper experience.
Tuscany’s bounty is unparalleled, its terroir an endless source of inspiration. From its rolling vineyards to its sun-kissed olive groves, every ingredient tells a story of place. Pappa al pomodoro, a simple yet soulful soup of stale bread, ripe tomatoes, basil, and extra virgin olive oil, is a story that speaks of never wasting what can be transformed. I have reimagined it as a delicate cappellacci, a pasta that cradles the essence of this rustic dish within its folds. Tradition remains at its heart, but its form takes on modern elegance in a conversation between old ways and new interpretations.
I believe that simplicity is the highest form of sophistication. I work with only a few core ingredients in each dish, and every one plays its role with clarity. The challenge is in creating depth without unnecessary embellishment. It’s a pursuit of balance, of allowing flavors to speak their truth.
Some dishes carry the weight of centuries yet remain alive, evolving. Panzanella is a savory salad born from the resourcefulness of Tuscan farmers. Stale bread, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil become a dish greater than the sum of its parts. I reinterpret such classics with reverence, ensuring that their essence is preserved even as textures and presentations shift to suit contemporary palates. A small change, a refined technique, but never a departure from origins.
At Mandala Club in Singapore, I wish to transport our guests. I want them to close their eyes and feel the golden light of the countryside, hear the distant hum of cicadas, imagine the scent of fresh bread baking in a village forno. This is the Tuscany I bring, a land where food is laden with memory, where every meal is a celebration, where the simplest things – a piece of bread, a drizzle of oil, a sip of wine – hold the greatest meaning. My invitation is to taste, to pause, to experience the heart of Tuscany.
BY CHEF VANIA GHEDINI ORO AT HOTEL CIPRIANI , A BELMOND HOTEL , VENICE
I BELIEVE THAT EVERY DISH, every ingredient, every technique holds within it a narrative. Mine began in Venice, where the essence of travel, exchange, and discovery is woven into the fabric of our food.
Working with Chef Massimiliano Alajmo taught me that ingredients are the foundation of great cuisine. He had a way of approaching food with childlike curiosity, constantly experimenting. I learned that to cook well you must respect the seasons, the land, and the subtleties of each ingredient.
When I moved from Massimiliano’s structured world to Massimo Bottura’s realm of boundless creativity, he gave me the terrifying yet exhilarating prospect of complete freedom. But in that space, I found my voice and learned that food is a way to bridge tradition and reinvention.
Venice has always been a crossroads of cultures, and my time in Morocco felt so natural because there I encountered spices – saffron, cinnamon, cumin, preserved citrus –that spoke in a language I already understood. Each one was an echo of my own city’s past, carried by merchants and sailors along the same routes that brought Venice its wealth of flavors. Today, these interrelated influences whisper through my dishes.
A meal, though, is not just about what’s on the plate –it’s also about the experience surrounding it. A restaurant is shaped by the energy of the people that are part of it. In my team, I look for that spark – that natural warmth that makes a guest feel at ease. Fine dining should be an invitation to relax, to savor, to be transported. At Oro, we welcome our guests as if into our own home, creating an effortless harmony between kitchen and dining room.
在 Oro 用餐,是向愉悦臣服,是将食物视为通往更 深境界的门扉。一顿饭永远不该匆忙 —— 它该如威尼斯悠 长的午后般舒展,似贡多拉在运河中漂游,若黄昏轻抚屋 顶的金色暮光。
When a guest sits at my table, I want them to taste an ingredient’s provenance, the landscape from which it was born. An oyster, for instance, is a reflection of Venice’s maritime heritage, a symbol of the sea’s enduring gifts. When a diner tastes not just the salt but the story, the experience becomes something greater.
To dine at Oro is to surrender to pleasure, to experience food as a gateway to something more. A meal should never be rushed. It should unfold like a long Venetian afternoon, like a gondola drifting through quiet canals, like the golden light caressing the rooftops at dusk.
山海之味
FLAVORS OF LAND AND SEA
BY CHEF ARMANDO ARISTARCO RISTORANTE BELVEDERE AT CARUSO , A BELMOND HOTEL , AMALFI COAST
THE AMALFI COAST IS GOLDEN LIGHT over terraced lemon groves, the scent of salt on the wind, the hum of waves against the cliffs. It‘s a place where nature dictates what is to be cooked, savored, and shared. My cuisine – an effortless, instinctual expression of where I was raised – is born from this landscape.
The sea speaks first, offering its bounty of scampi, anchovies, and sea urchins. Then it’s the land with gifts of wild mushrooms, sun-ripe tomatoes, and the perfume of Amalfi lemons. My role is simply to bring them together and let them tell their own story. On some days, the wind carries a whiff of the sea deep into the hills, and on others, the breeze sharpens the aroma of mountain herbs. The winds and the seasons guide me, the dishes compose themselves, and nature is their true author.
But family and tradition also shape the spirit of my cooking. In Campania, food is a reason to gather, to linger, to share. Every dish I create is a celebration of connection. Fritto Misto, with its golden pieces of just-fried seafood, is tasted, debated, and enjoyed together. And then there’s Nu’Burdèll, which the server, in a moment of theatrical interaction, completes at table with a pour of hot pasta gently cooking an array of delicate seafood before the eyes of the diners.
Time is perhaps the most important ingredient of all. My dishes reflect the rhythm of la dolce vita, where pleasure is drawn from waiting, savoring, and experiencing without urgency. Campanian rice, for example, is a dish that requires patience. Each ingredient is added in layers and each step coaxes out deeper flavors until the final creaming brings everything together.
The beauty of Campania is in its diversity. In a single meal, you can taste the sea and the mountains, the sweetness of fruit and the depth of aged cheeses, the richness of olive oil and the brightness of citrus. When I name my ingredients, I tell the stories of the hands that nurtured them. The anchovies are Donatella’s, the olive oil is Marco’s from Cilento.
It is this sense of place that I bring to Singapore. At Mandala Club, I want guests to feel as if they are perched on a sun-drenched terrace overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, their skin warm from the July sun, the scent of lemons heavy in the air. Because a meal is never just about food – it‘s also about memories, about savored moments, about time well spent.
A candlelit deck by a jungle waterfall at Rosewood Luang Prabang invites guests into a world where nature and elegance entwine.
Waterfall Pool Villa
In the hush of early dawn, the ancient town of Luang Prabang stirs to life. Mist clings to jungle-covered hills and the sound of flowing water echoes through the valley. On the outskirts of town, Rosewood Luang Prabang lies tucked amid emerald foliage and cascading falls, a sanctuary of timeless charm. Here, the luxury of a world-class retreat lives in harmony with the authenticity of Lao tradition. Each morning, as golden sunlight filters through banyan trees, the resort awakens gently, moving to the unhurried rhythm of Luang Prabang itself. It’s a place where every element – from the flutter of silk curtains to the aroma of frangipani blossoms – tells a story of Laos.
WANDERING ALONG STONE PATHWAYS at Rosewood Luang Prabang feels like stepping into a living museum of Lao heritage.
The resort’s design, envisioned by acclaimed architect Bill Bensley, blends French-colonial elegance with indigenous Lao art and craftsmanship. Tented villas perch on the hillside like explorer outposts, and riverside suites feature hand-carved woodwork and textiles woven by local artisans.
“Every detail here is done with purpose and holds significance for the community and the environment,” says Adrien Pons, the resort’s devoted general manager. His vision of cultural preservation is apparent everywhere. In the open-air Great House, he lifts a simple handwoven coaster and explains that it was crafted by hearing-impaired weavers at a nearby arts center. In support of local cottage industry, the menus and maps are printed on handmade saa paper, traditionally made from mulberry bark. Even the fragrant coffee beans brewed at breakfast are sourced from a Lao hill tribe cooperative.
Pons, who grew up amid the grand hotels of Paris, fell in love with Luang Prabang for its soulful character and UNESCOprotected heritage. “We want to create unique experiences for our guests,” he says, “experiences with an authentic sense of place, filled with discovery and connection.” Under his guidance, Rosewood Luang Prabang has become a guardian of tradition. The resort employs local villagers and works hand in hand with the community – from planting a thousand trees on the property to hosting workshops where Lao elders teach younger generations the nearly lost art of basket weaving. The result is a seamless blend of luxury and authenticity: guests bask in refined
晨光尚未到达山巅之际,已有员工轻叩别墅门, 以唤醒宾客开启神圣之旅。宾客身穿酒店提供的传统筒 裙与披肩,随宾客体验经理 Noi 驱车前往附近村落。天 色初晓间,赤足僧侣身披橘红僧袍缓步而行,村民跪坐 草席,将糯米饭与水果虔诚放入僧钵 这项名为「塔 巴特(tak bat)」的古老布施仪式中,瑰丽酒店的宾客
Tomato and Buffalo Ricotta
comfort while the spirit of Laos is preserved and celebrated in every corner.
Before the sun peeks over the mountains, a gentle knock on a villa door awakens guests for a sacred journey. Clad in traditional sinh skirts and shawls provided by the resort, they join Guest Experience Manager Noi on a short drive to a nearby village. There, as pale light blushes the sky, long lines of barefoot monks draped in bright saffron walk in meditative silence. In an ancient ritual known as tak bat, villagers kneel on woven mats to place sticky rice and fruit into the monks’ alms bowls. On this special morning, Rosewood guests kneel among them. Noi, a lifelong Luang Prabang resident, quietly guides them on proper offering etiquette – how to bow one’s head and offer food with both hands – as distant temple bells toll. “To share our traditions with visitors is an honor,” Noi whispers. “In moments like this, you don’t just observe Laos – you become a part of it.”
After the last monk has passed, Noi leads the guests into the village temple. Inside the cool, dim sanctuary, gilded Buddha
statues catch the new light. The group, sitting cross-legged on the wooden floor, joins a local elder in a simple meditation. The air is thick with the fragrance of incense and the sound of morning birds. Fifteen minutes stretch into thirty as roosters crow and a gentle chant resonates from a nearby altar. When the guests finally open their eyes, they glow with quiet wonder – they have touched the spiritual heart of Laos.
Later that morning, Noi escorts the guests through the bustling fresh market in town. Stalls overflow with exotic produce: eggplants, banana flowers, and such herbs as lemongrass and holy basil. The guests sample sticky rice pancakes and marvel at baskets of spices while Noi explains each ingredient’s place in Lao cuisine and folklore. By the time they sit down to a bowl of steaming khao soi noodles at a local eatery by the Mekong, they have forged an intimate connection with Luang Prabang’s daily life.
From guided jungle treks to hidden waterfalls, to private blessings with monks at hilltop shrines, the resort’s excursions
在 The Great House 的每一餐,都是穿越老挝饮食 文明的旅程。晚餐或许会出现琅勃拉邦名菜 or lam—— 用香茅与黑木耳熬煮的浓汤,搭配茉莉香米炖饭,传统 与创新在此交融。甜点时段,紫糯米配搭椰奶与鲜芒果 的经典组合,正是对街头小食的优雅致敬。Ice 主厨与 团队将食材故事娓娓道来:汤中南瓜来自苗族村寨的有 机农园,淋酱的野蜜采自僧侣照看的森林蜂巢。每一口 都沉淀着老挝的饮食基因。主厨表示:「我希望客人尝 到的不仅是美味,更是食材背后的历史与心意。」在他 看来,方寸餐盘间承载着记忆、文化与联结的三重奏鸣。
Pheng Soudaphone (Pheng), Head Gardener 园丁领班Pheng Soudaphone (Pheng)
are journeys into the soul of the culture. Each outing is so thoughtfully crafted that guests return to the resort carrying with them not just photographs but lived experience.
Back at Rosewood, cultural discovery continues on the plate. In the kitchen of The Great House restaurant, Executive Chef Wochirawish “Ice” Lerttanapornsit begins many days by visiting local farmers and foragers who bring the freshest bounty of the season. Thailand-born Chef Ice fell in love with Lao ingredients long before moving to Luang Prabang. “We use fresh produce from nearby farms and highlight local ingredients in every dish,” he explains, emphasizing a philosophy of farmto-table that underpins the resort’s cuisine. His menus are an edible homage to Laos: vibrant green papaya salads crunch with herbs picked at dawn, fresh fish steamed in banana leaves arrives perfumed with dill and chili, rich buffalo stews are simmered with eggplant and galangal in the age-old way. In fact,
Chef Ice sources buffalo mozzarella and ricotta from a dairy farm just outside town to support a social enterprise that empowers local farmers.
Dining at The Great House is a journey through Lao culinary heritage, often with a contemporary twist. One evening’s menu might feature or lam, the famous Luang Prabang stew fragrant with lemongrass and wood ear mushrooms, served alongside delicate jasmine rice risotto – both comforting and novel. For dessert, guests savor spoonfuls of sweet purple sticky rice topped with coconut milk and fresh mango, a nod to a beloved street food treat. Through it all, Chef Ice and his team weave stories of how the organic pumpkin in the soup was grown in a nearby Hmong village or how the wild honey drizzle comes from forest hives tended by monks in a distant monastery. The deep culinary roots of Laos run through every bite. “My hope is that our guests taste not just delicious food but the history and
heart behind each ingredient,” says Chef Ice, who believes that food blends memory, culture, and connection on a single plate.
When dusk settles, lanterns flicker to life around the resort and the jungle hums a lullaby. It’s the perfect hour for a cocktail, and the Elephant Bridge Bar awaits –an open-air pavilion gracefully spanning a trickling river. Tended by “Noy” Thanakone Thor, this bar is unlike any other. During the day, Noy can often be found in the resort’s herb garden, clipping sprigs of mint, lemon balm, and butterfly pea flowers for his nocturnal infusions. “I love watching nature transform into a cocktail,” he muses, gently crushing fragrant basil between his fingers. On the menu are classic cocktails with local twists and original creations inspired by Lao lore.
One signature, the Elephant Bridge Old Fashioned, marries a local rice whiskey with organic palm sugar and a dash of bitters made from mountain herbs. Another favorite is a bright purple lemongrass martini, colored by butterfly pea blossoms grown on-site.
Noy places a tray of ingredients before a pair of intrigued bar guests. There are bowls of dried hibiscus petals, fresh tamarind pulp, wild honeycomb, and a vial of amber liquid labeled lao-lao, the traditional Laotian rice spirit. He proceeds with the concoction as if performing a ceremonial rite. “Each cocktail should carry the flavor of Luang Prabang,” he says as he mixes tamarind juice with a spoonful of local honey and a squeeze of lime. The shaker clinks rhythmically as he explains the story of how this particular drink is inspired by the tamarind
tree that shelters the resort’s entrance, the very tree that provided the tart fruit now swirling in the mix. He strains the drinks into glasses and garnishes each with a curl of lemongrass and a floating frangipani flower. The first sip is revelatory – sweet, sour, herbal, and utterly transporting. It’s as if the gentle spirit of Laos has been distilled into liquid form. Here, the art of crafting cocktails is not about flashy mixology but about capturing a sense of place. “It’s like bottling a little piece of this land’s soul for our guests to savor,” says Noy.The evening deepens, and guests at Elephant Bridge Bar sway softly in hammocks over the river, drinks in hand. Above, a velvet sky is pinpricked with stars; below, the stream dances under the glow of hanging lanterns. Sounds of the night – the cicadas’ chirp, the distant echo of temple drums – blend with laughter and the
clink of glasses. In this moment, true luxury is the feeling of complete immersion in a place so alive with nature and human heritage.
As guests prepare to depart, they’ve come to understand that Rosewood Luang Prabang, beyond a luxury retreat, is a bridge between past and present, a place where culture is not merely displayed but lived, where every experience offers a deeper understanding of Laos.
Here, hospitality is not about opulence but meaning. Every detail reflects thoughtful commitment to preserving tradition while offering guests what is real and lasting.
As the full morning light spills over the jungle hills, there is no grand farewell, only the quiet certainty that this place, with its people and its stories, will linger long in memory.
Adrien Pons
隐逸瑰宝
LOCAL CONNECTIONS
Rosewood Luang Prabang is a hidden retreat, a place where luxury meets authenticity in a setting that feels both intimate and timeless. At its helm is General Manager Adrien Pons, who has woven together a vision of hospitality that is as much about cultural preservation as it is about impeccable service. I recently sat down with Adrien to discuss his journey, Rosewood’s unique approach to luxury, and how this extraordinary property embodies the brand’s “Sense of Place” philosophy. § 琅勃拉邦瑰丽酒店是一处隐秘的避世之 所,在这里,奢华与本真相遇,营造出私密而永恒的意境。酒店总经理 Adrien Pons 一直秉持将文化 传承与至臻服务完美融合的待客之道。近日,我有幸与 Adrien 畅谈他的职业历程、瑰丽独特的奢华 理念,以及琅勃拉邦瑰丽酒店如何诠释品牌「地方感(A Sense of Place)」的哲学。
Adrien, tell us how your journey brought you to Rosewood Luang Prabang.
Before coming here, I was director of sales and marketing at another Rosewood property. But during COVID, I had the opportunity to step into a more operational role. I was one of the few expats who stayed on, and I found myself managing different aspects of the hotel. It became clear that I wanted a new challenge – something different from the corporate hotel world.
BY MARK HAMMONS
I’d always lived in big cities – Paris, Abu Dhabi, Shanghai –but I started exploring rural Cambodia on my own. I discovered the beauty of remote destinations, the richness of small communities, and realized I wanted to be part of something more connected to the local culture. So when the opportunity arose to lead a hotel that embodies cultural preservation, sustainability, and deep storytelling, I knew it was the right fit.
How does Rosewood’s “Sense of Place” philosophy come to life here in Luang Prabang?
“Sense of Place” is not just a design principle – it’s embedded in everything we do. From the architecture to the dining experience to the way we train our staff, everything is about honoring Lao culture.
For example, the menus at our restaurant are printed on handmade mulberry paper, sourced from a local family-run workshop. The same goes for our pottery. We work directly with a pottery village, ensuring that the art continues for generations. Just by staying here – without doing anything extra – guests are supporting these artisans and helping preserve Lao heritage.
How do you bring cultural preservation into the guest experience?
A lot of it comes down to storytelling and connection. Take our trekking experience. Yes, it’s a beautiful walk to Kuang Si Falls, but it’s not just about nature. It’s about spending time with our guide, Noi, who shares stories about Lao spirituality, history, and way of life.
And our almsgiving ceremony, where guests participate in a meaningful Buddhist tradition, is not just an Instagram moment – it’s a lesson in generosity, mindfulness, and respect.
We also work with local families to introduce traditional Lao cuisine. A great example is naem khao, a delicate steamed rice pancake filled with mushrooms, pork, and egg. Most Lao people think of it as simple schoolboy street food, but we brought in a local woman to cook it here for guests. Now our staff see their own culture celebrated, and our guests discover something truly authentic.
Who are the guests that come to Rosewood Luang Prabang? What are your top markets?
Surprisingly, our biggest market is the US. A lot of American travelers are curious, well-traveled, and looking for off-the-beaten-path destinations. Laos is the next frontier. Our second-largest market is China, including Hong Kong. And we have a strong regional market from Thailand, especially Bangkok.
About 60 to 65 percent of our guests are women. We see a lot of mother-daughter trips, girlfriends’ getaways, and women traveling solo. Luang Prabang is a spiritual, cultural place – there are no bars or nightlife – so it naturally attracts a more introspective traveler.
How has the influx of luxury hotels in recent years changed Luang Prabang?
Unlike many destinations in Asia that have been overdeveloped, Luang Prabang has maintained its authenticity. When you walk through town, you still see local families, monks going to temple, and artisans crafting by hand.
Your team here is incredibly special. What’s your approach to hiring and training?
I believe that skills can be taught but passion and curiosity cannot. When we interview potential staff, we don’t just ask about their experience. We ask where they like to eat in Luang Prabang and what temple they’d recommend to a guest. When someone lights up, talking about a hidden noodle shop or a quiet monastery, we know they’ll engage guests with genuine passion. That’s why our guests don’t just remember the design of the hotel – they remember the people.
如何将文化传承融入宾客体验? 关键在于故事与联结。以徒步活动为 例,前往关西瀑布的沿途不仅风景绝美, 更有向导 Noi 分享老挝信仰、历史与生活 智慧。
What unites all Rosewood hotels? What’s the common DNA?
Each property is different – whether it’s an urban hotel in Bangkok or a remote retreat like ours – but what ties us together is our commitment to honoring local culture. It’s not about luxury in the traditional sense. It’s about creating experiences that educate, inspire, and connect guests to a place in a deep way.
Guests won’t remember if they had an avocado toast for breakfast, but they will remember the story behind a handmade textile, the warmth of a conversation with a local guide, the quiet moment of reflection at a temple. We strive for creating moments that stay with people long after they’ve left.
Finally, what keeps you inspired as a general manager?
It’s seeing our staff take pride in their culture. As they watch guests genuinely fascinated by Lao food, crafts, and customs, they start to appreciate their own heritage more deeply.
When a guest leaves and says, “I feel enriched. I’ve learned something new,” I know we’ve done our job. Because in the end, that’s what Rosewood Luang Prabang is all about – not just a luxury stay but a journey into the heart of Laos.
THE SIXTEEN COUNTRIES OF THE MIDDLE EAST are a world of culinary diversity, reflecting a rich tapestry woven from history, myriad cultures, and the region’s location at the crossroads of ancient trade routes. Numerous civilizations have helped to define the dishes at the heart of Middle Eastern cuisines, whose fragrant spices like cumin and saffron join fresh herbs like mint, parsley, and cilantro in dazzling, multilayered creations. With a compelling blend of tradition and modernity, coupled with deep-rooted customs of hospitality, the food culture of the Middle East captivates visitors, and it’s no surprise that it has also found fans far from its homeland. A look at Hong Kong, for
CELEBRATES A REGION’S THRILLINGLY VIBRANT FOOD LANDSCAPE.
example, reveals restaurants from Lebanon, Egypt, Morocco, Iran, and Jordan, all celebrating their own unique flavors. A key factor in the cuisine’s success in Asia is its age-old emphasis on communal dining. Indeed, family meals with invited guests are central in both cultures.
But innovation is also increasingly defining Middle Eastern dining as chefs push the boundaries in brilliantly creative menus. Nowhere is that clearer than at Orfali Bros Bistro in Dubai, recently named number one on the list of MENA’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025, announced earlier this year at a glittering ceremony at Erth Abu Dhabi hotel.
The three Orfali brothers, Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar, secured first-place bragging rights for an unprecedented third year running. Their inventive dishes inspired by their Syrian home of Aleppo range from a brilliant take on gyoza with shish barak to the Insta-famous OB Croquette featuring a parmesan dashi custard and luscious onion tamari sauce.
Coming in at number two was Dubai’s fine-dining Indian eatery Trèsind Studio, led by Chef Himanshu Saini. His immersive degustation menus celebrate India in all its incredible geographical and cultural diversity. Dubai rounded out the top three spots with Kinoya, an elegant
来自叙利亚阿勒颇的三兄弟主厨 Mohammad、Wassim 与 Omar,以创意惊艳 味蕾,已史无前例地连续三年蝉联榜首。他 们从家乡汲取灵感,打造如日式煎饺与中东 肉饺的奇妙融合,以及风靡社交媒体的 OB 可乐饼(帕玛森高汤奶油与洋葱酱油)。
迪拜高端印度餐厅 Trèsind Studio 位列 第二,主厨 Himanshu Saini 通过沉浸式品鉴 菜单,展现印度辽阔疆域孕育的饮食多样性。
日式居酒屋 Kinoya 则代表迪拜包揽季军,以 顶级食材演绎东瀛风情。
Mohammad, Wassim, and Omar Orfali
celebration of the Japanese izakaya tradition and the finest Japanese produce.
The list’s number four ranking went to Khufu’s in Cairo. Helmed by Chef Mostafa Seif, the restaurant offers iconic Egyptian dishes with contemporary techniques and flavors – along with a spectacular view of the pyramids. Finishing the top five was Ossiano in Dubai, a progressive fine-dining restaurant with a focus on seafood, set amid the dramatic surroundings of an aquarium at Atlantis The Palm.
Although the UAE topped the country list with an impressive twenty-two restaurants, the list included winners from eleven cities
across the MENA region, from Marrakech and Beirut and to Riyadh and Manama.
Winner of the Estrella Damm N.A. Chefs’ Choice Award was Tala Bashmi, chosen by her peers for her positive impact on the regional culinary community and for her redefinition of the country’s cuisine through fresh takes on classic heritage dishes.
MENA ’s Best Female Chef Award winner was Yasmina Hayek, who has carried on the work of her mother, Mireille Hayek, in bringing Lebanese food to the world’s attention through the Em Sherif Group in locations that include Monaco, London, Beirut, and Abu Dhabi.
迪拜 Brix and 3 Fills 餐厅行政糕点主厨 Carmen Rueda Hernandez 获得「最佳糕点师 奖」。这位西班牙明星主厨打造了中东地区唯
← Khufu’s
↓ Tala Bashmi
Sara Aqel
Carmen Rueda Hernandez, executive pastry chef at Dubai’s Brix and 3 Fills, was named MENA’s Best Pastry Chef. The Spanish star is known for crafting the Middle East’s only dessert tasting menu, with six courses inspired by China, India, Persia, Turkey, Greece, and Italy.
Dara Dining by Sara Aqel in Amman, ranking number eighteen on the list, received the Highest New Entry Award. To understand her mission and how she celebrates local produce, diners shouldn’t miss her Seasonal Bounty Salad.
Finally, Boca in Dubai won the Sustainable Restaurant Award, and its chef, Omar Shihab, was honored with the Icon Award for his focus on responsible dining, zero-waste initiatives, ethical sourcing, and support of local farmers and fishers.
一的甜品品鉴菜单,六道甜品的创作灵感源 自中国、印度、波斯、土耳其、希腊和意大 利的美食传统。
安曼的 Dara Dining by Sara Aqel 餐厅 位列榜单第 18 位,并获得「最佳新上榜餐 厅奖」。想了解主厨对本地食材的礼赞理念, 其招牌时令丰收沙拉不容错过。
Sofitel’s La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms collection reimagines croissants as floral-themed edible art.
BLENDING FRENCH PATISSERIE MASTERY with native flower motifs from seven of its global destinations, luxury hotel and resort brand Sofitel has introduced La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms collection. Launching this May, the limited-edition series is inspired by blooms native to international locales that range from South Korea and Morocco to Mexico and Australia.
“Creating La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms allowed us to elevate everyday experiences for guests by infusing our pastries with creativity and flair,” says Sofitel Corporate Executive Chef Anne-Cécile Degenne. “We wanted to craft something that not only celebrates local flavors but also redefines how we experience the world’s most beloved pastry.”
One standout creation, the Seoul Bom Blush, transforms South Korea’s famous cherry blossom season into a gastronomic celebration. Available throughout May exclusively at Sofitel Ambassador Seoul Hotel & Serviced Residences, this delicately flaky croissant features cherry blossom whipped ganache and vibrant raspberry gel encased in buttery, petal-like layers. “We wanted to capture the fleeting beauty of cherry blossoms in a way that lingers by offering guests a taste of spring with every bite,” says Pastry Chef Hyunho Lim, who designed the delectable treat.
Adding to the collection’s bouquet are, among others, Morocco’s Zesty Orange Blossom, Mexico’s Dalia Rouge, and Australia’s Citrus Fleur, each paying tribute to its origin through locally sourced ingredients and meticulous craftsmanship.
索菲特集团行政主厨 Anne-Cécile
Degenne 表示:「创作 La Haute Croissanterie Blossoms 系列的初衷,是通过融入创意与 巧思,将日常体验提升到新的高度。我们不 仅借此致敬本地风味,还希望重新诠释大家热爱的世界 经典糕点。」
“Each croissant tells a story of its destination, combining French sophistication with the essence of local culture,” says Degenne. “It’s about creating a sensory journey of constant surprises and delights.”
Beyond this limited-edition release, Sofitel continues its commitment to culinary innovation with year-round offerings like Singapore’s teh tarik croissant, Bangkok’s pandan-infused pastry, and Krabi’s squid ink and sea salt edition. Each of these creations reflects Sofitel’s Cultural Link ethos, which celebrates the interplay of French artistry and regional authenticity.
Beyond sheer indulgence, Sofitel’s Blossoms collection offers travelers and food lovers a chance to explore global cultures through the luscious layers of France’s most iconic pastry.