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T A S T I N G 43

N O R T H

K I T C H E N T O

HOKKAIDO

N I S E K O

Bountiful Homage 丰盛敬意

NISEKO

Destination Niseko 雪国仲夏

HIRAFU

A Tale of Two Seasons 两季物语


PERFECT comes of age.

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The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. ©2019 Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by Patrón Spirits International AG, Schaffhausen, Switzerland, 40% alc./vol.


TION


Located in a peaceful forest, steps away from AYA, the Ace Family Quad Lift, and village amenities, Intuition is the first and only onsen estate in the center of Grand Hirafu, the most popular ski village in Niseko, Japan. The exclusive estate hosts 10 villa sites and a luxurious condominium with 32 apartment units, ranging from studios to 6-bedroom penthouses. It will also house dining, hot spring and hotel concierge facilities exclusive to the Intuition residences. Limited units are now available for sale. Contact your local real estate agents for details.


IN I NFFOO@@I N I NTTUUI TI TI O I ONNNNI SI SEEKKOO. .CCOOMM IN I NTTUUI TI TI O I ONNNNI SI SEEKKOO. .CCOOMM

developed developedby by


STARTER

Nestled in the fishing village of Iwanai in Hokkaido, Japan, Michelin-recommended Takezushi serves an array of delicate, painstakingly prepared sushi creations in a traditional setting. It doesn’t get any fresher, or more authentically Japanese, than this. Take the restaurant’s sushi platter, which features catches sourced both in local seas and across Japan: sea urchin, flounder, bluefin tuna, mackerel, tuna belly, scallop, cuttlefish, red prawn, salmon roe, squid, soft clam, and octopus.

DAVID HARTUNG

位于日本北海道岩内町渔村的米其林推荐餐厅「Takezushi」,供应一系列最新鲜、最正统的传 统日本寿司。寿司拼盘中的水产均是来自当地及日本海域,包括海胆、比目鱼、蓝鳍鲔鱼、鲭 鱼、鲔鱼腩、扇贝、墨鱼、红虾、鲑鱼籽、鱿鱼,软蛤蜊和章鱼。(从左至右,从上至下)

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T A S T I N G 43

N O R T H

K I T C H E N T O

N I S E K O

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Andrea Lo

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Lucy Morgan

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Chris Dwyer

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Kate Nicholson

Babel Communications

IMAGE EDITOR

Miyako Kai

jonna@babel.com.tw

EDITORS

Jane Wong

Zita Wan Vivian Pun

ACCOUNTANT

ASSISTANT EDITORS

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Terrie Lam ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Lauriane Lemaire

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

TRANSLATION SERVICES

PRINTING Asia One Printing 13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

Jonna Chen ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Shinichi Maeda, executive chef and owner of An Dining in the Ki Niseko hotel, creates a delightful tromp l’oeil effect of fish skin by wrapping paper-thin shavings of kombu seaweed around Himemasu trout and scallop fish cake and deep-frying it like tempura. Go to page 38 to read more about how he presents the best local ingredients in dishes that are beautiful homages to the farmers and fishermen in Niseko and around Hokkaido.

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木新雪谷酒店内的「An Dining」餐厅的老板兼主厨Shinichi Maeda 以海苔包裹姫鳟与扇贝鱼饼,再如天妇罗般油炸,使海苔如鱼 皮般轻薄。翻阅第38页,了解他如何用新雪谷和北海道的各种 食材入馔,以别处难寻的美味向当地的农夫和渔民表达敬意。

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2019

Photography by David Hartung

All rights reserved


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. TK has been honored to collaborate with the Niseko Tourism Board

in creating North to Niseko, this special issue to be distributed at the region’s upcoming G20 tourism summit. Travelers to Niseko are most often drawn by the region’s famous winter activities, but, as we so delightfully discovered this past August, its outdoor lifestyle and dining destinations hold an equal allure. We start our journey with the work of an artist whose striking contemporary renditions of urushi, a type of traditional Japanese lacquerware, adorn not only the tables but also the walls of the restaurants he partners with. Nearby, a Niseko metalsmith works in an old warehouse next to the river, creating fanciful works inspired by the four seasons and the area’s natural environment. Then it’s time for our culinary tour, starting with a restaurant whose modern menu is built around one of the most important fish in Japanese cuisine, the ayu, as well as a panoply of locally sourced products: vegetables from an organic garden, livestock raised according to principles of ethical animal husbandry, and seafood harvested through sustainable aquaculture. We continue with a visit to Niseko’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, whose chef makes the most of the region’s disparate seasons. He creates imaginative menus that evolve every week and that even in winter feature a high proportion of Hokkaido products, including preserved vegetables and a healthy helping of the region’s flavorful dairy products. Next on our plate is a steak to beat all others, the result of a decades-long family competition and a scientific approach to refining every variable, from the cut of the beef and the grind of the pepper to the temperature of the grill and the resting time of the beef. To balance all the protein, we get a personal lesson in handcrafting soba noodles made with buckwheat that’s stone-ground in the restaurant and water from a nearby Niseko spring. There’s also a multifunctional café and art space, potatoes wet-aged for 540 days, local sake and wine – but, then, the best approach is simply to read on, get inspired, and plan a Niseko journey of one’s own.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12  Art of Dining •  16  Forging Ideas •  18  Going Under •  22  Snow Place Like Home •  24  New Horizon •  28  Chefs without Borders 38  Bountiful Homage •  48  A Tale of Two Seasons •  54  Steak Supreme •  58  Niseko Soba •  64  Experiential Eating •  68  Accidentally Delicious 86  Imagination and Wonder •  96  The Possibilities of Peppers •  124  Taking It Modern •  126  Bordeaux Among Friends

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18

22 108 102

48

38

58 24

86

124

126

64 60

96 58


CONTENTS

72 Destination Niseko •  132  The Benefits of Aging • 136  Out of the Past 138  Golfing in Paradise •  140  Sustainable Luxury •  144  Flying High •  146  Niseko Goes Italian 152 L I S T I N G S   •  156 D E S S E R T

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148

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118 38

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FOOD & ART

食艺

ART OF DINING Japanese lacquerware moves from the table to the wall in an exhibition of sinuous sculptures by Nozomi Watanabe.

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COURTESY OF EXPERIENCE NISEKO (2 + PRECEDING PAGE )

「An Dining」是日本新雪谷最新颖的餐厅之 T H E I N T I MAT E I N T E R I O R of An Dining, one of the most 一,自今年七月起,餐厅内部展出一系列 innovative restaurants in Niseko, Japan, has been home since 由艺术家渡边希打造的朱红色曲面雕器与 July to a collection of undulating, vermilion-hued sculptures and 食器作品。日间,餐厅柔和的自然光能突 table objects by artist Nozomi Watanabe. During the day, the 显这些作品的流线外型,但要等到夜幕低 restaurant’s soft natural light enhances the flowing curves of 垂之际,这些作品的生命才真正 Watanabe’s creations. But it’s at night that the works, 跃然墙上。作品展于黑色墙面, mounted on the long black walls that dominate the BY 墙面幅度相当长,占据餐厅大半 space, really come alive: lamps positioned around the KATE NICHOLSON 空间,这些带有浓艳风情的漆器 room highlight the flamboyant, reflective surfaces of 在室内灯光环绕照射下,映照出光亮色泽。 each piece. 渡边希擅于将古老的技艺转化为当代 Transforming ancient techniques into contemporary art 艺 术, 她 自 小 成 长 于 风 景 如 画 的 北 海 道, is something of a specialty for Watanabe. Growing up in pic即 日 本 最 北 方 的 岛 屿。2006 年 她 毕 业 于 turesque Hokkaido, Japan’s northernmost island, the artist 东北艺术工科大学后,便师事于松山继道 graduated from Tohoku University of Art and Design in 2006 and (Tsugumichi Matsuyama) 大师,开始钻研 then went on to study the urushi methods of traditional Japanese 日本传统漆艺。 lacquerware under the guidance of master artisan Tsugumichi 漆艺是一种相当古老的制程且过程非 Matsuyama. 常艰辛,要从漆树上采集漆液,漆树属于 The process of creating urushi pieces is ancient and 漆树科盐肤木属,常见于东亚地区。许多 incredibly painstaking. Urushi itself is a s ap col lected 世纪以来,涂漆工艺被运用于碗盘、珠宝 from Toxicodendron vernicifluum , a tree in the sumac family that 盒的外层,以达到保护与防水效果。渡边 is cultivated throughout East Asia. It has been used for centuries 希将此工艺用于制作当代作品时,采用奈 to create a protective, water-resistant coating over such objects 良时代一种干漆塑型技巧,使用麻布沾取 as plates, bowls, and jewelry boxes. In making her contempo漆 液 作 为 黏 着 剂 后, 反 覆 堆 叠 于 模 型 上, rary works, Watanabe uses the Nara period molding technique 厚度足够后,再将胚胎模型抽离,这种技 of kanshitsu , in which hemp cloth is repeatedly applied to a form 巧 舍 弃 木 头 等 较 硬 的 材 料, 而 改 用 麻 布, using urushi as the adhesive. When the layers are thick enough,


FOOD & ART

the form is pulled away from the mold. Using hemp instead of harder materials like wood produces objects that are lightweight and unaffected by changes in temperature and humidity. Watanabe is accustomed to working in culinary environments. Top chefs have chosen her urushi-ware works to plate their creations, and she has even transformed the material into knives and forks, rather than the more traditional chopsticks, for an Italian restaurant in Japan. “I change my works, depending on the people who commission them or the spaces they’ll be shown in,” she says. “In the case of public art, my large-scale pieces coordinate with the construction concepts or the theme of the exhibition.” Urushi’s unique properties, Watanabe believes, make it a perfect medium for a wide variety of applications, including on restaurant dining tables. “Urushi is naturally antimicrobial and acid-resistant,” she says, “and it neutralizes preservatives. It also resists fingerprints and doesn’t change color.” Curated by local Kiyoe Gallery, the showing of Watanabe’s widely acclaimed urushi work is the third exhibition to be hosted by An Dining. Although the artist typically shows her works in more traditional spaces like galleries, museums, and corporate lobbies, she has a fondness for restaurants as exhibition spaces. “The tableware and artwork interact with the chef’s menu, the lighting, the interior design, and the layout of the space itself,” she says. “And if the chef loves my work, it gives customers who use my urushi-ware a unique experience.”

打造出的作品重量较轻,也较不易受到环 境温度与湿度变化的影响。 渡边希经常与餐厅合作,顶级主厨会 挑选她的漆器作品作为摆盘的食器,而她 甚至为一间日本的意大利餐厅特制以漆器 「我 制成的刀叉,而非传统的筷子。她表示: 会依照委托人的需求,或是展示的环境来 改变。如果是公共艺术创作的委托,我会 依照搭配的建筑理念或是展览的主题来打 造大型作品。 」 渡边希认为漆器的独特性让它成为制 作食器的完美材质。她说 : 「漆器具有天然 抗 菌、 抗 酸 功 能, 而 且 还 能 中 和 防 腐 剂, 也不必担心会沾到指纹,或是色泽会有所 改变。 」 本 次 展 览 由 当 地 的 Kiyoe 画 廊 策 划, 展出渡边希极富盛名的漆器作品,这也是 「An Dining」主办的第三次展览。虽然渡边 希展览作品的地点多半在较为传统的艺廊、 博物馆或是商业大厅,但她个人偏好在餐 厅内展出作品。她认为 : 「这些食器与艺术 作品能与主厨的料理、灯光、室内装潢设 计、以及整体空间的规划产生互动,如果 主厨喜欢我的作品,那么客人也能享受以 漆器餐具用餐的独特体验。 」


INSPIRED LIVING

铸塑雪域

forging ideas Using traditional Japanese techniques, a Niseko metalsmith fashions imaginative modern works of iron and copper.

and exotic birds, animals, and insects, some of which visitors may have spotted while hiking the hills or skiing the slopes nearby.

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日本金属工艺历史悠久 , 技术的发展可追溯到西元前 200 年, 有些技术甚至流传至今,从未失传。金属茶具铸造技艺有大约 三百年左右的历史。时至今日,铁制、铜制或锡制的茶壶已成 为日本饮食文化中不可或缺的元素。 金工师 Masafumi Sawada 移居到日本北海道新雪谷已逾 二十载,其实之前他便从事金属艺术的创作。他出生于宫崎县 的南端,距离日本北方的北海道非常遥远,由于深受当地「夏 日的凉爽气候、冬日细雪以及美味蔬果」的吸引,他才决定要 搬到这个岛上。Masafumi 是经专业训练的金工师,主要运用 铁与铜进行创作,但在进行家具、茶具以及室内外雕刻的创作 时也使用不锈钢细网与木头。

Masafumi 目前的工作室兼艺廊是 Gallery RAM。这个工 作室由老旧仓库翻新而成,当初这间仓库原本在七天内便即将 面临报废,幸好由 Masafumi 抢救翻新。工作室附近有一条景 色优美的河流,上方是新雪谷大桥。金工创作难免产生敲打熔 接的高分贝音量,所以 Masafumi 精心挑选了这个僻静的地点。 然而,现在这个工作室成为当地热门的旅游景点,这一点倒是 跟 Masafumi 的原意有些相悖。此外,他经常一边坐在河畔神 游或是钓鱼,一边构思未来的创作主题。 在早年的创作生涯中,Masafumi 打造不少功能性的餐具, 如清酒杯、茶壶、日式茶杯等等,而现在他则醉心于北海道野 生动物的自然风貌。他说 : 「这里四季各有不同的样貌,包含自 然景致与野生动物,非常迷人。 」因此他近期的功能性器具创作 较少。他表示 : 「最近实用性创作的数量比较少,我脑中出现有 意思的想法或设计时,便会开始构思创作主题。 」Gallery RAM 艺廊的展示架上,除了许多茶壶与日式茶杯外,还摆满了各式 各样的动物金属雕塑,如本地与外来的禽鸟、动物及昆虫品种。 如果你到当地爬山或滑雪,也许还看过其中某些动物呢。

IMAGE COURTESY THE ARTIST

JAPAN’S LONG HISTORY OF METALCRAF T includes methods that date to the second century BC, with some of them still in use. The art of making metal tea ware began three hundred or so years ago, and today, examples in iron, copper, and tin are an everyday part of Japanese dining culture. Artist Masafumi Sawada has been working with metal since before he settled in Niseko more than two decades ago. Born far south in Miyazaki Prefecture, a world away from northern Hokkaido, Sawada says he was drawn to the island by “the summer coolness, the winter powder snow, and the delicious vegetables.” A trained forger, he works predominantly in iron and copper, but also incorporates fine stainless steel net and wood into his furniture, tea ware, and indoor-outdoor sculptures. The artist’s studio and exhibition space, Gallery RAM , is in an old warehouse that he saved just one week before it was set to be demolished. Located next to the picturesque river that flows under the Niseko Ohashi Bridge, the isolated spot was chosen because Sawada’s hammering, bending, and welding is inherently noisy. Although a bit out of the way, the studio has become a popular stop on the local tourist trail. And it’s while sitting and fishing on the bank of the river that Sawada dreams up the concepts for his next projects. Earlier in his career, he produced a lot of functional tableware like sake cups, tea kettles, and tumblers. But now, a fascination with the untamed landscapes of Hokkaido – “changes in the four seasons, nature, and the wildlife” – have led Sawada to fashion less utilitarian pieces. “I haven’t made many practical things recently,” he says. “The subjects I focus on are created when an interesting idea or design comes to mind.” Alongside the teapots and tumblers that adorn Gallery RAM’s shelves is a growing menagerie of both local


Sake pots: “(澄) Clear” series by Japanese metal artist Masafumi Sawada 清酒壶「澄」由日本金工师 Masafumi Sawada 创作。

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One of only three underwater restaurants in the world, Under literally rises out of the waves of a wild bay in southern Norway. 「Under」是世上仅有的三间海底餐厅之 一,伫立在挪威南部港湾的海浪中。


DESIGN

Made of a concave reinforced concrete shell, Under blends in with the stony cliffs that surround it, sitting naturally in the landscape. 「Under」的外壳以凹形的钢筋混凝土制成,与周围的石壁悬崖融为一体。

上「膳」若水

going under

INGER MARIE GRINI / BO BEDRE NORGE, ANDRE MARTINSEN

Norway’s remote and tempestuous southernmost shoreline is now home to one of only three underwater restaurants in the world. RISING DEFIANTLY BUT GRACEFULLY from unforgiving waves within a craggy, cliff-lined bay in Høllen, Lindesnes, is Under, which opened its hatches to guests earlier this year. Appropriately shaped like a periscope, the restaurant is barricaded against the might of the sea with a reinforced concrete shell, three-foot-thick acrylic windows, and local oak cladding. “We tried out several other more complicated ways of getting from A to B,” explains Marlene Fenger Vedal, senior interior architect at Snøhetta, the world-class firm tasked with designing the building, “but we ended up feeling that the diagonal line down like a periscope was the most logical shape.” For diners lucky enough to snag a reservation at this indemand restaurant, those first steps into a space submerged five and a half meters beneath the sea are likely to be filled with trepidation. “Before we’d even finalized the shape of the building,” says Fenger Vedal, “we knew that we needed to orchestrate a voyage from the surface to the seabed below that would intrigue guests.” Visitors are led down a flight of stairs to a second-level bar, where they pause for a brief interlude before being seated in the dining room another floor down. The walls around them are lined with Kvadrat Soft Cells, a soundabsorbent, fire-resistant, soft-to-the-touch textile panel system specially developed for the space. The color of the squares

挪威林德斯纳斯区的渔村紧邻陡峭崎岖的 海岸线,巨浪翻腾汹涌,从海面突出一座 「Under」餐厅,以优雅而突出的姿态屹立 于岸边。 「Under」餐厅今年初甫开幕,外 观像是一个潜望镜,为了抵挡海浪冲击及压 力,特地设计了强化水泥墙,以及三尺厚 的大压克力窗,外侧贴覆着当地的橡木板。 该餐厅委托国际级的斯诺赫塔 Snøhetta 建 筑事务所进行设计,资深建筑师 Marlene 「我们尝试过更为复杂 Fenger Vedal 表示 : 的外观设计,但最后得出共识,认为这样 斜插入海面的潜望镜造型最合理。 」 「Under」 餐 厅 的 订 位 非 常 热 门, 成 功预定的幸运儿在进入餐厅时,首先得步 入 5.5 米深的海底通道,不免令人有些惴 「在建筑体外观还 惴 不 安。Marlene 说 : 没拍板定案之前,我们就知道势必要为消 费者打造一段从海平面步入海底的惊奇旅 程。 」旅客走下一段阶梯之后,便进入第 二层的酒吧区,在此短暂驻足之后,将往 下进入底层的用餐区,周围的墙面使用

Kvadrat Soft Cells 建材,是具有隔音防火 功能、专门为海底建筑所设计的软质面板 north to niseko

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DESIGN

Once guests are seated at Under, there’s no escaping the fact that they’re dining in Norway’s icy seas.

The walls of Under are lined with bespoke Kvadrat Soft Cells. 餐厅的墙面选用 Kvadrat Soft Cells 建材。

宾客入座后,立刻会察觉自己正身处挪威的冰冷海域中。

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系统,渐层色调由深蓝绿晕染为柔和的粉白色,营 造出静谧的日出景象。 大型压克力全景窗让人犹如置身水族馆,上方 的天花板内嵌数百个照明灯,以特殊光线柔化反光, 框住一方深海景观,而且此处照明色调经过悉心设 计,弱化绿色调的强度,让充满海景风格的室内环 境能更为突出。 「Under」不仅外观是前所未见的独 特,室内设计也是全面专属订制,所有家具摆设都 是由斯诺赫塔建筑事务所设计,再采用挪威橡木于 当地制作而成。该餐厅从家具的色彩组合、本地建 材到菜单料理,无一不散发出浓浓的海洋风情。餐 厅料理采用当令的当地特产食材,某些餐具甚至还 含有挪威的海沙。 宾客入座后,立刻会察觉自己正身处挪威的冰 冷海域中,成群海底生物在窗外悠游跃动,宛如在 观赏一场表演,有些海产生物甚至化为眼前美味的 盘中飧。 颇负盛名的主厨 Nicolai Ellitsgaard 于 2016 年 获邀主掌「Under」厨房,他立刻一口答应。他受 访时表示 : 「人生能有多少机会能主掌一家海底餐 厅?这可是一生一次的难得机会。 」他的料理向来以 善用当地当令的野味闻名,并坚持所有料理一律采 用挪威本地食材,大部分食材的食物里程都在十公 里之内。 「我觉得挪威拥有全世界最美味的海鲜,因 为在低温的海水中,生物成长速度较为缓慢,采用 这些食材做成的料理也因此具备独特风味。 」

IVAR KVAAL (2), INGER MARIE GRINI / BO BEDRE NORGE

transitions from deep green-blue to soft pinkish-white, imitating the serenity of a sunrise. Hundreds of light points are deeply recessed into the ceiling to ensure that no reflections are visible on the huge aquarium-like window that frames the seabed view. The color of the lighting is also carefully toned to counteract the greenish hue that would otherwise tinge anything within the submarine interior. Like its never-beendone-before exterior, everything inside Under is bespoke. All of the space’s furniture was designed by Snøhetta and fabricated locally in Norwegian oak. Tributes to the surrounding landscape are everywhere, from the design’s color palette and use of local materials to the menu, which employs regionally sourced ingredients almost exclusively. Some of the tableware even contains Norwegian sand. Once guests are seated, there’s no escaping that they’re in actual fact dining under Norway’s icy seas. An exquisitely agile ballet of marine life, some of which may make an appearance on their plates during the evening, is performed before their eyes. Head Chef Nicolai Ellitsgaard, of Måltid fame, was first approached to helm Under in 2016. He dove right in: “How often do you get a chance to run an underwater restaurant? It’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.” As a long-time champion of local, seasonal, and wild foods, he insists that everything on the Under menu come from Norway, with most items sourced from within ten kilometers of the restaurant. “I think Norway has the best seafood in the world,” says Ellitsgaard. “Things grow slower in this cold water, and that brings something special to the taste.”


Lighting in Under is carefully toned to counteract the greenish hue of the ocean. 灯光色调经过悉心设计,以弱化海洋绿色调的强度。


雪谷之家

snow place like home

An Australian real estate developer brings luxury housing to Japan’s top ski resort.

“ E V E R Y PA R A D I S E S TA R T S T H E S A M E WAY, ” says Simon Robinson. “It’s the adventurous backpacking market that finds it.” The founder and president of Hokkaido Tracks Resort Properties (HTRP) first encountered budget skiers on his visits to the powder

haven of Niseko in 2002. “These guys said, ‘Isn’t this the best skiing in the world?’ And their girlfriends said, ‘But it has the worst accommodations.’” That glaring lack was one factor that led Robinson to open up shop. Since its founding in 2003, HTRP has built over two hundred properties in the Niseko-Hirafu region and Furano. “You don’t tend to find ski resorts with land available,” he says. “We kept on buying land and building, and it grew and grew.” Today, Niseko is filled with properties catering to a high-end clientele, with HTRP at the forefront.

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「每座天堂都以同样的方式展开。 」Simon Robinson 说道 : 「 这 是 冒 险 刺 激 的 背 包 客 市 场。 」北海道

Tracks Resort Properties(HTRP)的创始人兼总裁 于 2002 年走访新雪谷的粉雪天堂时首次遇到滑雪 背包客。 「他们说: 『这真是世上最好的滑雪胜地!』 , 而他们的女朋友接着说 : 『却有最糟的住宿。 』 」 当地如此再明显不过的缺失正是促使澳洲人来 此投资的因素之一,自 2003 年成立以来,HTRP 在 新雪谷比罗夫地区和富良野建造了两百多座房产。 「不会一直都找得到有地可用的滑雪胜 Simon 说 : 地。我们持续买地兴建,并使其扩张成长。 」如今, 新雪谷满是迎合高端客户需求的住宿,而 HTRP 位 居前茅。


DESIGN

← The firm specializes in houses inspired by traditional Japanese box home designs. HTRP专攻传统日本箱 体设计的房屋。 ↓ Catering to high-net-worth individuals, homes are delivered fully furnished. 为了满足高净值资产人士 的需求,房地产交收时, 装潢家具已一应俱全。

DAVID HARTUNG (2), KENJI MASUNAGA (INTERIOR)

The company initially found great success catering to the Australian market, but after the 2008 financial crisis and the 2011 earthquake and tsunami, Robinson “reinvented the business” as a specialist real estate company. “Our team helps buyers find a plot of land with what they want – views, or access to the ski hill – and we go through the sales process,” explains Dylan Hughes, HTRP’s construction and design manager, also an Australian native. “In custom homes,” says Robinson of properties that range from 1.5 to 9 million US dollars, “buyers are very emotionally involved. We find out what their direction is and introduce them to good-quality architects.” Partnerships are also formed with experienced developers building a branded product in Niseko. “They have more of a vision of what they want,” explains Hughes. The firm expects to deliver more than twenty properties by the end of 2019. According to Robinson, a shinkansen high-speed rail line linking Sapporo with Niseko, set to be completed in 2030, will be a “gamechanger” that will continue to transform the area. In the meantime, he adds, the firm has positioned itself as regional experts committed to its ongoing quest as a “one-stop shop” providing exceptional vacation experiences. “In ten years’ time, I intend to still be here, hiking the peak.”

他 们 一 开 始 就 成 功 迎 合 了 澳 洲 市 场, 但 在

2008 年金融危机与 2011 年地震和海啸后,Simon 的专业房地产公司「重整商业模式」 。在澳洲土生 「我 土长的建筑与设计经理 Dylan Hughes 解释说 : 们的团队会帮买家找到他们属意的土地,包括景 观或进入滑雪场地路线,然后带客户走过整个销 售流程。 」

Simon 提 及 房 产 的 价 位 落 在 一 百 五 十 万 至 九百万美元之间 : 「订制住宅时,买家会投入相 当多情感,于是我们会观察客户心之所向,并为 他们引见优秀的建筑师。 」合作关系也是在资深 开发商于新雪谷建立品牌商品时所建立,Dylan 解释道 : 「建筑师对客户想要的设计有更多的了 解。公司预计到 2019 年底前,能交付二十多处 房产。 」 据 Simon 所言,连接札幌和新雪谷的新干线 高速铁路将于 2030 年完工,它将改变「游戏规则」 并重塑当地风光。与此同时,HTRP 定位自己为该 区域的房产专家,致力提供「一站式服务」 ,提供 「在这十年间,我 卓越的度假体验。Simon 补充 : 打算继续待在这里登峰造极。 」 north to niseko

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G R I L L E D D A L I A N A B A LO N E S E R V E D W I T H A B A LO N E L I V E R S A U C E , P O A C H E D C H A R R E D EG G P L A N T, A N D A M A R A N T H S 烧大连鲜鲍搭配鲍肝酱、炖煮炙烧香茄和苋菜

“The fresh abalone we source from Dalian is deep and multilayered,” says Kostow, “thanks to an intense but balanced sauce made from liver, egg yolks, eggplant poached in clarified butter, and dried abalone liquor. Purple amaranths complete the picture-perfect dish.” 主厨 Christopher 表示 : 「大连直送的新鲜鲍鱼气味丰富、 层次浓厚,以无水黄油及鲍鱼干酒炖煮肝脏、蛋黄与茄 子,所提炼的酱汁浓烈又不失平衡,加上紫苋菜的点缀, 让人忍不住拿起手机一拍再拍。 」

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TASTING NOTES

东方新视界

NEW HORIZON An eminent American chef brings his California culinary ethos to one of China’s most dynamic urban centers. BY CHRIS DWYER

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Q U I C K LY S M O K E D C AV I A R W I T H P OTATO A N D C R È M E F R A Î C H E C U S TA R D , F R E S H P E A S 烟熏鱼子酱搭配马铃薯凝乳和鲜甜豆

This dish is an explosion of green and a master class in delicious textural interplay. “Using Chinese ossetra caviar as the focus,” says Kostow, “we do a custard of fermented potato garnished with tiny peas and a green onion oil made from parsley and green garlic tops. The thickened pea juice has fresh shucked peas and fresh pea tendrils from Relish Farms.” 这道料理是对食材质地的掌握与蔬食的发扬 交织而成的绿色美馔。主厨 Christopher 介绍 说: 「以中国的鲟龙鱼子酱为料理主角,搭配 腌马铃薯制成的酸酪,放上小颗豌豆,滴上 由香菜、蒜苗尾制成的青葱香油。浓稠的豌 豆汁则以来自 Relish Farms 的新鲜脱壳豌豆 与豌豆须制成。 」

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ENSUE, WITH ITS BREATHTAKING VIEWS from atop the Futian Shangri-La, Shenzhen, adds a ray of Napa Valley sunshine to a city shaded by more skyscrapers than any other city on earth. This remarkably fast-growing Silicon Valley of the East is a culinary home far removed from Chef Christopher Kostow’s famed other dining room, three-Michelin-starred The Restaurant at Meadowood in the heart of California’s scenic wine country. But therein lay the challenge and excitement for Kostow, the youngest American-born chef ever to head a restaurant achieving the culinary world’s highest honor. Ensue’s DNA, he says, “is the aesthetic and ethos of The Restaurant at Meadowood applied to a different geographical and cultural place. There’s something at play here that feels pioneering, adventurous. Shenzhen represents in many ways a new horizon.” The dream team behind Ensue’s realization includes New York designer Chris Shao, who combines traditional elements of Chinese luxury with features representing Napa Valley‘s notable natural beauty. Under Kostow‘s leadership, Head Chef Miles Pundsack-Poe from The Restaurant at Meadowood is in charge of kitchen operations, assisted by Executive Sous Chef Kevin Finch from Atelier Crenn. Working with an energetic team of Chinese and foreign chefs in a kitchen that has to be seen to be believed, they present an exquisite tasting menu showcasing some of the finest of China’s produce. “We’ve been diligent in sourcing great product,” says Kostow. “Our cooking simply does not work without it. While it’s a bit more challenging than being in Napa, we believe we can find the best examples of the things we want to use.”


TASTING NOTES

从位于福田香格里拉大酒店的「Ensue」餐厅俯视, 美 景 一 览 无 遗。 在 大 楼 密 度 堪 称 全 球 第 一 的 深 圳, 「Ensue」送来纳帕郡的耀眼烈阳,在高楼间投射出一 丝晴朗辉光。这个东方矽谷,如今是主厨 Christopher

Kostow 烹饪之旅的第二个归宿。第一个是位于加州、 , 堪称葡萄酒乡的「The Restaurant at Meadowood」 已摘下米其林三星,是与「Ensue」风格迥异的餐厅。 对于这位美国史上纪最年轻、旗下餐厅却勇夺烹 饪界最高奖项的主厨来说,这是难得的刺激与挑战。

WAT E R- T U R T L E S O U P S T E E P E D W I T H A R O M AT I C S FROM THE CHINESE PA N T R Y, A U S T R A L I A N WINTER TRUFFLE 澳洲冬产松露炖中药鳖汤

「 『Ensue』继承『The 谈到「Ensue」的本质,他说 :

Restaurant at Meadowood』的美学与精神,并应用 在截然不同的地理环境与文化中。这过程充满开拓性 及冒险。深圳的各方面对我来说,都是新的视界。 」 「Ensue」的建立,当然不仅单凭一己之力,背后 的梦幻团队还包括纽约设计师 Chris Shao,将中国传 统奢华元素与纳帕郡独具特色的田野魅力相互结合。

“We’re so thrilled to be able to use a traditional ingredient like the water turtle and straddle the line between East and West, between comfort and luxury,” says Kostow. “There are Chinese aromatics – ginseng, yellow olives, golden flowers – as well as honey dates, Norton Farms ham, North China kombu, and a terrine made from the gelatinous part of the shell and Australian winter truffles.” 主厨 Christopher 说道 : 「有机会运用中 华传统食材如鳖肉来料理,跨越中与西、 家常与奢华的界线,实在令人兴味盎 然。这些是各种中式香料及配料,有人 参、黄橄榄、菊花 , 还有蜜枣、Norton

Farms 火腿、中国北方昆布,以及以鳖 壳胶质和澳洲冬产松露制成的凝冻。 」

在 Christopher 的领导下,从纳帕郡餐厅调派的 行政主厨 Miles Pundsack-Poe 统筹管理餐厅运作,来 自「Atelier Crenn」餐厅的行政副主厨 Kevin Finch 则 从旁协助。主厨们通力合作拼搏,设计出无可挑剔的 菜单,让中国最优质的食材散发光芒。Christopher 说: 「我们不断寻找上等食材,食材够好,才能端出最棒 的料理。与纳帕郡相比,虽然好的食材有点难找,但 相信只要专心致志,总能找到最好的真材实料。 」 Christopher Kostow


PRESENTED BY MGM

厨 艺 无 边

CHEFS WITHOUT BORDERS Grill 58’s chef-partner Mauro Colagreco and chef de cuisine Daniel Smeenk find inspiration in flavors from around the world.

「我的烹饪理念是追求天然而且完全无国界。 」澳门美狮 “MY CULINARY PHILOSOPHY is natural and completely 美高梅酒店「盛焰」餐厅的星级名厨 Mauro Colagreco borderless,” says Mauro Colagreco, the globally celebrated 说: 「像我一样,就是各种文化、影响和旅行交织下的 chef behind Grill 58 at MGM COTAI. “Like me, it’s the prod杰作。 」 uct of a mix of cultures, influences, and travels.” Argentinian by birth, Italian by blood, and French by Mauro 生于阿根廷、拥有意大利血统、居住在法国。 佳评如潮的他在今年众望所归地荣获米其林三星,而他 residency, Colagreco has won critical acclaim that has cul在 法 国 芒 通 的 知 名 餐 厅「Mirazur」 也 名 列 minated this year in three Michelin stars and BY the number one spot on the list of The World’s 2019 年全球 50 大最佳餐厅之首。餐厅体现 MAMIE CHEN 了 Mauro 对顶级食材的不懈追求,以及他如 50 Best Restaurants 2019 for his famed Mirazur • 何在飨宴中以其绝世才能来展现上乘食材。 in Menton, France. The restaurant embodies PHOTOGRAPHY BY 尽管「盛焰」作为一家以铁板烧为特色 Colagreco’s relentless pursuit of the best ingreDAVID HARTUNG 的牛扒餐厅, 与「Mirazur」的概念相去甚远, dients and his unerring talent for showcasing 但 Mauro 依然以相同方式研发菜式。他说 : them in an immersive dining experience. 「我总是会设想,在这两家餐厅做出什么才能让宾客叹 Although Grill 58, as a steak-forward restaurant 为观止。 」 featuring teppanyaki, is very different in concept from 「盛焰」的皱皮青柠海螫虾清汤融合了泰国青柠、 Mirazur, Colagreco takes the same approach in develop香茅、橙橘和柠檬皮,最后加上西米。Mauro 解释他是 ing his dishes. “In both cases, I ask what would surprise 认知到汤品在亚洲料理中举足轻重,比任何其他文化都 and wow guests the most.” 还要重要。他选用极致鲜嫩可口的海螫虾,并维持一贯 Take Grill 58’s langoustine consommé, infused with

combawa , lemongrass, and orange and lemon zest and finished with sago pearl. Explaining his thinking behind it, Colagreco acknowledges the important role that soup plays in Asian meals, “much more so than in any other culture.” He selects a crustacean prized for decadent delicacy, and in keeping with his penchant for bringing bright acidity to his dishes with garden-grown citrus from

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总爱在料理加入鲜明酸度的作法,采用了来自法国芒通、 庭园种植的柑橘类水果,用芳香扑鼻的泰国青柠增添一 抹令人玩味的东南亚风味。 总 厨 Daniel Smeenk 与 Mauro 的 风 格 一 致。 「我在『Mirazur』的一年历练与经验将陪伴 Daniel 说 : 我一辈子。我们共事了八年,他对我影响当然很深远。

Mauro 非常有创意,总是擅长现点现做的料理。我学到


Chef de Cuisine - Grill 58 总厨-盛焰 Daniel Smeenk


PRESENTED BY MGM

Menton, he adds a playful, Southeast Asian twist with intensely aromatic combawa. Chef de cuisine Daniel Smeenk is in complete alignment with Colagreco’s style. “The year I was at Mirazur will stay with me the rest of my life,” he says. “We’ve worked together for eight years and, of course, he’s influenced me a great deal. “Mauro is so creative and always good at cooking à la minute. I’ve learned a lot about freedom in interpreting a dish – how I can change something and make it more interesting. That’s what I’m trying to teach our young chefs here.” Grill 58’s teppanyaki, too, features unusual dishes with touches of East meets West. Toasted brioche, for example, is served with the Asian flavors of uni and yuzu butter and topped with a hefty dollop of caviar. With an emphasis on teppanyaki, Smeenk has launched an eight-course carte blanche menu. Highlighting seasonal ingredients and specially available products, it’s tailored to guests’ individual preferences. “Tell us what you like, and the chef will be able to base a menu around it,” he says. “It really sparks our creativity and enhances interaction with the guests. That’s how we plan to move forward.”

了如何自由地诠释一道料理,如何做出改变 使其变得更有趣,这就是我试着在这里传授 给年轻厨师的观念。 」 「盛焰」的铁板烧也以「东西融合」的 独特料理为特色,例如铁板烤法式甜包,配 上亚洲风味的海胆和香柚牛油,上头还缀有 一大团鱼子酱。

Daniel 着重于铁板烧,推出了八道式的 无菜单菜单,依宾客的喜好客制菜式。他聚 焦于时令食材和特殊供应的品项,并解释 : 「告诉我们您想要什么,厨师就会以其为核 心来设计菜单。这确实激发了我们的创意, 并强化了与宾客间的互动。这就是我们规划 的走向。 」 At Grill 58, chef-partner Mauro Colagreco shares his experience as chef-patron of Mirazur, bringing a touch of Mediterranean spirit and his daring vision for a modern international steak house. 星级主厨Mauro在「盛焰」分享于「Mirazur」作为主厨兼經營者时的经历, 让他接触到地中海精神,并带给他创立现代国际牛扒馆的宏大愿景。

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C H A R- G R I L L E D C A N TA LO U P E , 5 J I B E R I CO H A M , YO G U R T S A U C E 炭烤哈蜜瓜、5J 西班牙黑毛猪火腿、 乳酪酱

In a modern revision of a classic starter course, Smeenk marinates sweet and aromatic cantaloupe in butter, honey, and thyme overnight, then lightly grills it over charcoal for a hint of smoke. Enhanced with the sweet and nutty savor of thinly sliced Cinco Jotas ibérico ham, the dish is finished with creamy tahini yogurt dressing and a lavish sprinkling of thyme leaves, black sesame seeds, and lime zest. 这道现代版的经典头盘料理,Daniel 用黄油、 蜂蜜和百里香腌制香甜哈密瓜一整夜,再置于 炭火上轻烤,带出些许烟熏味。为衬托出薄切

5 J 西班牙黑毛猪火腿的香甜和果仁风味,这 道料理还配有滑顺的芝麻乳酪酱、撒上百里香 叶、黑芝麻和青柠皮。

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PRESENTED BY MGM

H A M A C H I , CO CO N U T, G R A P E F R U I T, M A C A D A M I A M I L K 油甘鱼、椰子、西柚、夏威夷果牛奶

Inspired by Colagreco’s interest in exploring textures and flavors, this dish starts with the full-bodied taste of thinly sliced hamachi and then layers on the richness of macadamia milk, the crisp bite of red and spring onion, the crunch of chia and coriander seeds, the meatiness of grated coconut, the acidity of grapefruit gel, and the brightness of lime zest.

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这道菜启发自 Mauro 对探索口感与风味的 兴趣,首先是薄切油甘鱼的饱满口感,接 着是夏威夷果牛奶的浓醇风味、红葱和青 葱的鲜脆、奇亚籽和香菜籽的爽脆、椰丝 的扎实、西柚凝露的酸,以及柠檬皮的画 龙点睛。


AUSTRALIAN BLACK ANGUS BEEF C A R PA CC I O , L I M E , J A L A P E Ñ O , CO R I A N D E R , S A LT E D A N C H O V Y 澳洲黑安格斯牛肉薄片、 青柠、墨西哥辣椒、香菜、 咸鯷鱼

Smeenk special-orders the Black Angus beef, normally reserved for the domestic market, from Rangers Val ley in Australia. “Grass-fed like this is typically leaner and has a texture that’s better for carpaccio,” he says. Adding anchovies for a salty element, jalapeños for heat, and coriander oil for warm depth of flavor, the chef gives this classic an international flair. “It reflects Mauro’s approach – finding ways to make things interesting and a little different.” Daniel 特别订购了主要销往澳洲 国 内 市 场 的 Rangers Valley 黑 安 格斯牛肉,他说 : 「像这样的草饲 牛只大多比较精瘦,其肉质更适 合 用 来 做 薄 片 料 理。 」为了赋予 这道经典料理国际风貌,主厨加 入鯷鱼来增添咸味、墨西哥辣椒 增加辣度、香菜油带来和暖深厚 「这反映出 的风味。Daniel 补充 : Mauro 的取向,要找到让料理变 得有趣且不同的方法。 」

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CUT TLEFISH STEWED WITH CO D F I S H T R I P E , B A S I L P E S TO , F R E S H G R E E N P E A S 墨鱼炖鳕鱼肚、罗勒酱、鲜青豆

St arting with a traditional French Mediterranean sauce made from a stock of clams, codfish tripe, codfish tongue, and basil pesto, Smeenk presents a summery interpretation augmented with stewed cuttlefish and fresh green peas. “It is a beautiful dish that can be enjoyed exactly as is,” he says. “It’s also an easy-to-play-with base. I recently customized the dish for a small group by adding sea bream on top. It was lovely.” Daniel 先以蛤蜊、鳕鱼肚、鳕鱼舌和罗 勒酱调制出传统的法式地中海酱,再加 入 炖 墨 鱼 和 新 鲜 青 豆 来 增 添 夏 日 意 象。 他说 : 「这是道赏心悦目又美味的料理, 而它的基底也可随需求做变化。我最近 才为一小群宾客客制,为这道料理加上 鲷鱼,实在是太美妙了。 」

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PRESENTED BY MGM

Special eighty-seat dining events featuring cuisine from Mirazur by Chef Mauro Colagreco are scheduled for October at Grill 58. The six-course dinner menu on Oct. 18 and 19 is priced at MOP1888, plus 10% service charge, per person. The four-course lunch menu on Oct. 20 is priced at MOP888, plus 10% service charge.

八十席的特别飨宴将在十 月 于「 盛 焰 」 举 行, 名 厨

Mauro Colagreco 将 献 上 来 自 「Mirazur」 的 珍 馐 美 馔。10 月

18 日 至 19 日 的 六 道 式 晚 膳 套 餐价格为每人 1888 澳门币,另 加 10 % 服 务 费。10 月 20 日 的 四道式午膳套餐价格为 888 澳 门币,另加 10%服务费。

C U S TA R D C R E A M W I T H F U D G E G L A Z I N G , PA SS I O N F R U I T T U I L E 焦糖吉士布丁、热情果脆片

Smeenk achieves the perfect balance of flavors and textures by topping smooth custard cream with a half-centimeter layer of dark caramel fudge glazing that provides just enough bitter sweetness to counter the richness below. A caramel-based passion fruit tuile adds sweet-tart chewiness, and passion fruit sorbet delivers a refreshing finish.

Daniel 在口感滑顺的吉士酱上摆放一 层半公分厚的深色焦糖釉面,让苦甜 的 滋 味 与 下 方 的 香 醇 浓 郁 形 成 对 比, 借 此 达 到 风 味 与 口 感 间 的 完 美 平 衡。 焦 糖 热 情 果 脆 片 增 加 了 酸 甜 的 嚼 感, 而热情果雪葩则划下冰凉沁心的句点。

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丰盛敬意

BOUNTIFUL HOMAGE With the help of local farmers, fishers, and foragers, a Japanese chef reveals the abounding natural flavors of Hokkaido. BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Lalala tomato caprese with Takahashi Farm bocconcini and a “shisovese” pesto sauce made from shiso leaves 啦啦啦意式番茄沙拉佐高桥牧场博康奇尼 奶酪与紫苏叶研磨青酱

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「你知道香鱼吗?」Shinichi Maeda 问道。「它 most important fish in Japanese cuisine.” The executive chef and owner 是日本料理中最重要的鱼类之一。」木新雪谷 of An Dining, a modern Japanese restaurant in the Ki Niseko hotel, scrolls 酒店内,这位现代日式餐厅「An Dining」的 through his phone, sharing photos of a recent fishing excursion and the 行政总厨滑动他的手机,一边展示最近钓鱼的 story of his catch. 照片,一边分享着捕鱼的故事。 To many, the ayu evokes Japanese summers, when restaurants serv对于许多人而言,香鱼唤醒日本的夏天。 ing freshly caught sweetfish, as it is also known, pop 季 节 一 到,从 北 部 的 北 DEEP-FRIED HIMEMASUup along riversides from Hokkaido in the north to the 海道到西南部的九州岛, T R O U T - A N D - S C A L LO P island of Kyushu in the southwest. The fish is prepared 日 本 全 国 各地的河岸会 FISH CAKE WRAPPED as raw sashimi to highlight its legendary melon-like 涌 现 不 少 餐 厅, 并 开 始 W I T H KO M B U S E AW E E D aroma or skewered and grilled whole over an open 供应刚捕获的新鲜香 昆布海苔裹炸姫鳟与扇贝鱼饼 flame, then sprinkled with sea salt and savored in its 鱼。 香 鱼 被 用 来 做 生 鱼 entirety – head, fins, guts, and all. Because the species 片, 以 突 显 如 蜜 瓜 般 的 “I wanted the fish cake to be moist thrives only in clean, fast-flowing rivers where its food 独 特 香 味, 更 常 见 的 是 on the inside and crunchy on the source of moss and algae can grow, the popular little 串 烧 以 及 整条鱼放在火 outside but without the heaviness fish have become a flash point in the growing environ上炙烤,撒上海盐调味, of a flour batter. So I tried deepmental clamor over habitat loss due to dams. 让 食 客 从 鱼 头、 鳍、 内 frying it in paper-thin seaweed wrapping. And it looks like fish Fortunately for Maeda, a river just an hour’s drive 脏等细细品尝整条香鱼。 skin! T he salsa is green rock from Niseko remains crystal clear and unobstructed. 香 鱼 只 能 在干净且水流 melon, cucumber, and capsicum in “These ayus were voted number one in Japan in a blind 快 的 河 中 生 存, 该 环 境 a vinegar dressing with wasabina taste test a couple of years ago,” he says. “They don’t 利 于 其 食 物 来 源, 即 苔 leaves for garnish.” stock this area – they’re 100 percent native and wild.” 藓和藻类的生长。然而, He tries to fish for ayu at least once a year, always 由 于 建 立 水坝导致栖地 「我想让鱼饼外脆内嫩,但不要太厚 in the company of a professional who has been teach消 失, 这 炙 手 可 热 的 淡 重的面粉外层。于是我试着把鱼饼 ing him the uniquely Japanese technique of ayu-no水河小鱼也是岌岌可危。 放在轻薄如纸的海苔里油炸,炸出 tomozuri, whereby a live ayu is used as a decoy to lure Shinichi 感到幸运的 来就像一层新鲜的鱼皮!酱料则是

“DO YOU KNOW THE AYU?” asks Shinichi Maeda. “It’s one of the

out its notoriously territorial brethren. “We call it ‘friend’ 是, 仍 有 一 条 清 澈 干 净 用哈密瓜、小黄瓜、油醋辣椒调配 fishing,” he says. “But it’s really an intruder that we put 河 流, 且 距 新 雪 谷 只 有 而成,最后再加上装饰用的山葵叶。 」 in someone else’s territory. We hook the nose, head, 一小时车程。他说 : 「在 and tail, and there’s another free hook, so they’re caught when they try 数年前的日本味道盲测中,这里的香鱼被评为 to attack it from behind. It’s amazing!” 第一名。它们不是养殖,而是百分之百自然野 The act of fishing, particularly using traditional methods, is one way 生。」他试着每年至少去钓一次鱼,而且总是 for Maeda to stay connected with his ingredients. For the same reason, 与专家同行。专家教他一种名为「友钓法」的 he and his An Dining team began cultivating their own small vegetable 独特日本技术,就是利用活的香鱼去靠近原占 garden. And he also personally visits his suppliers, who all practice either 有地盘的香鱼,引诱原地盘内的香鱼去撞击饵 organic farming, ethical animal husbandry, or sustainable aquaculture. 鱼而触发鱼钩。他说: 「我们称之为『友钓法』, “It’s really important to see and to know,” says Maeda. “As a chef, I 但并不是真正的朋友,而是将不速之客引入别 want to understand what happens behind the ingredients.” That includes 人的地盘。我们钩住鱼鼻、鱼头和尾巴,另外 touching the soil and the plants and observing how they grow, visiting the 还有一个自由钩子,所以当它们试图从后面攻 livestock farms to see what the animals are fed and how they’re raised, and 击时就会被抓住,实在是太有趣了!」 working with a marine research company to learn the differences between Shinichi 透过钓鱼,尤其是传统钓法,来 varieties of sea urchins and sea cucumbers. From that personal knowledge and experience, he says, comes true respect for the ingredients. Maeda’s summer menu is a bountiful homage to the produce and seafood that Hokkaido is famous for. He proudly declares that 90 percent of his ingredients are from the island. Dish descriptions are detailed with the towns where products are sourced: Akkeshi oysters, Shiretoko wagyu beef, Ebetsu pork belly, Kutchan tofu.

与料理食材保持联系。出于同样的原因,他与 「An Dining」餐厅团队也开始经营自己的小菜 园,因此他亦会亲自拜访从事有机农产品种 植、人道畜牧及永续水产养殖的合作供应商。 「身为厨师,眼见为凭非常 Shinichi 说 : 重要,我想了解食材的来源。」到访行程包括 亲自触摸土壤与树叶,亲眼观察植物如何破土 north to niseko

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TO M U R A U S H I B E E F S I R LO I N S T E A K W I T H ROASTED SUMMER V EG E TA B L E S A N D C U R E D EG G YO L K S A U C E 新得西冷牛排佐夏日 烤时蔬与腌蛋黄酱

“Jersey cattle are typically used for dairy, but this farmer raises them just like his wagyu cattle. The beef has wonderful flavor, with just enough fat to be tender and soft without feeling heavy.” The cured egg yolk is soaked for six to nine hours in a master stock of soy sauce, mirin, and sake with bonito flakes, kombu, and dried shiitake mushrooms. 「娟珊牛通常专为生产乳制品所饲 养,但这位酪农培育它们的方式就像 养和牛一样。这种牛肉的味道一流, 脂 肪 量 恰 到 好 处, 尝 起 来 柔 嫩 又 没 有油腻感。 」腌蛋黄则在酱油、味醂, 和添加柴鱼片、昆布和干香菇的清酒 所制成的精制高汤中充分浸泡六到 九个小时。

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Some dishes, like his tomato caprese with bocconcini and shisovese sauce, feature produce from farms within twenty minutes of the restaurant. “The tomatoes, shiso leaves, and borage flowers are from Lalala Farm, and the cheese is from Takahashi Farm not far from there,” he says. “I made the dish to show off all we have in the Niseko area. Even though it seems almost like an Italian dish, when you taste it, you get really Japanese flavors. I have a rule for myself: if an ingredient grows in Hokkaido or is made here, then I can use it and still make it into ‘modern Japanese’ food.” By not limiting himself to traditionally Japanese products, Maeda can make use of Hokkaido’s famously creamy dairy products. And he feels free to employ any seasonal fruit or vegetable that local farmers grow, from princess bamboo shoots and red shiso leaves to lime cucumbers, Cape gooseberries, and purple basil. “Actually, I don’t order specific vegetables from Lalala Farm – I let him choose,” says Maeda of owner Yoshihiro Hattori. “I pretty much take anything and everything. Yesterday afternoon, he came in with boxes and boxes

而生,参观牛、猪、鸡养殖场,看看这些动 物的饲料以及被饲养的方式。他还与一家海 洋研究公司合作,了解各种海胆和海参的异 同之处。 他说,透过这些自身的知识和经验, 学会重视与欣赏食材。Shinichi 的夏季菜单向 北海道知名农产和海鲜致敬。他自豪地宣称 其中九成食材皆源自岛上,菜式也都是来自 镇上的地道美食,其中包括厚岸生蚝、知床 和牛、江别五花肉和俱知安豆腐。 某些料理,如意式番茄沙拉配博康奇尼 奶酪和青酱意大利面,其中食材出品牧场距 离餐厅只需二十分钟路程。他说 : 「番茄、紫 苏叶和琉璃苣来自 Lalala 农场,奶酪来自就 近的高桥牧场。我做这道料理是为展现在新 雪谷地区的所有产品。即使它貌似意大利菜, 当你品尝时便会感受到日式风味。我的原则 便是,只要食材出产或出品自北海道,就能 用以制作成『现代日式』料理。」 除传统日本产品,Shinichi 也选用北海道 知名乳制品,亦得以采用当地农夫认为适宜 种植的时令蔬果,从公主竹笋、红紫苏叶到 青柠黄瓜、灯笼果和紫罗兰。他谈到农场主 「其实我没有从 Lalala Yoshihiro Hattori 时说 : 农场订购特定蔬菜,我让农场主自己决定。」 Shinichi 与员工也是新雪谷道路休息站的 常客。这个休息站曾因其农夫市场内贩售附 近六十多座农场所产的食材而被评为日本国 内最佳休息站。他说 : 「我的员工今早去了一 趟,打电话来问要购买什么。我说,只要看 起来不错的,我都要。」 即兴的选择成为搭配新得沙朗牛排和腌 制蛋黄酱的烤夏季蔬菜。Shinichi 说 : 「现在 有非常甜的甜椒和烤大蒜,但其他日子可能 就会是完全不同的蔬菜组合。」 鸡 蛋 则 来 自 当 地 农 场,Hideki 和 Naoki Ishikawa 兄弟所饲养的三万只鸡,每天生产 二万四千颗鲜美鸡蛋。Naoki 说,特制的饲 料是影响蛋黄味道和色泽的关键因素,主要 包括专属为养鸡场所生产的纯野生沙丁鱼肉、 北海道玉米和北海道大豆。石川农场是日本 仅存两座采用当地玉米而非进口便宜玉米的 农场之一。 「Ishikawas 兄弟所养的鸡 Shinichi 说 : 只只吃北海道的食物,连贝壳粉也是,在饲 料中不添加任何化学成分和防腐剂,其供应 商亦然。重点在于我们能完全掌握鸡蛋的成 分。」因与供应商保持直接联系,他能亲自 验证商家所秉持的理念和做法。他耸了耸肩 说: 「因为有时标签并不能代表什么。」


SUNOMONO WITH MURASAKI U N I , WAT E R S H I E L D , O K R A, AND SHIMEJI MUSHROOMS 海 鲜 杂 菜 :紫 海 胆 、 莼 菜 、 秋葵和本菇

“ This is a very traditional Japanese cuisine starter dish using seasonal vegetables and seafood in a sweet vinegar sauce. The watershield has a really short season of about three weeks. That and the yuzu are from the south of Hokkaido. Everything else is from around here – the uni is from Kamoenai fishing village, the shimeji from twenty minutes away, and the okra and nasturtium are from my own garden.” 「这是一道相当传统的日式开胃料理,主 要食材为季节时蔬和甜醋酱海鲜。莼菜 的产期很短,大约只有三周,和柚子一 样来自北海道南端。其他食材则来自周 边 地 区, 其 中 紫 海 胆 来 自 神 惠 内 渔 村, 本菇的产地距离这里大约二十分钟车程, 秋葵和金莲花则采自我自家的花园。 」

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of vegetables. Now I’ll decide how to use them.” Maeda and his staff are also regular customers at Niseko View Plaza, rated the best rest stop in all of Japan for its farmers market that offers produce from more than sixty farms in the vicinity. “My staff stopped by this morning, called me, and asked what I wanted – I said whatever looks good.” This spontaneous selection becomes the roasted summer vegetables that accompany Maeda’s Tomuraushi beef sirloin steak with cured egg yolk sauce. “There’s a very sweet pepper and a roasted garlic. On another day, it could be a completely different set of vegetables.” The eggs are from a local farm where brothers Hideki and Naoki Ishikawa rear thirty thousand chickens that produce twenty-four thousand flavorful eggs each day. The specially formulated feed, which Naoki says is the most important factor affecting the flavor and color of the yolk, consists largely of pure wild sardine meat, made exclusively for his farm, along with Hokkaido corn (the Ishikawa farm is one of only two Japanese producers to use it rather than cheaper imported product) and Hokkaido soybeans. “These chickens eat only Hokkaido ingredients,” says Maeda, “even the shell powder. T he Ishikawas don’t use any chemicals or preservatives in their feed and neither do their suppliers. We know exactly what’s in and isn’t in the eggs.” By maintaining direct contact with suppliers, he is able to personally verify their stated philosophies and methodologies. “Sometimes the labels don’t mean anything,” he says with a shrug. Maeda is also able to leverage his personal relationships to better understand the products. For example, he first began testing Maeda gently cradles a long-spined murasaki sea urchin. Maeda大厨轻捧着一个长针紫海胆。

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recipes for reconstituting and cooking dried sea cucumbers as a favor to help local businesses in the three fishing villages that make up the Gan-wu coastal area. As a result, he perfected a technique for reducing the two-to-four-day rehydration process: “It’s all about the temperature and how soft you want it. Sixty-five degrees is the lowest that works, and you can make it soft enough to eat within twenty hours.” Maeda now serves as an official ambassador for Kit Blue, a local sea cucumber and sea urchin merchant representing Gan-wu fisheries. Sea cucumbers feature only on An Dining’s winter menu, but in summer, guests enjoy the peak season for the bafun and murasaki varieties of uni, or sea urchin. Although the general belief is that the more expensive short-spined bafun are sweeter and tastier than the long-spined murasaki, Maeda, after having worked closely with the fishermen, disagrees. “When I order sea urchin, I don’t specify bafun or murasaki,” he says. “I let the fishermen give me whatever is available and of better quality at the time.” He serves both kinds in his restaurant at the same price. “Sometimes I lose money doing it, but I want my guests to taste the best things I have that day, and I want to prove that there’s no difference in quality between the two types.” To Maeda, it’s a great irony that the area’s peak season for tourism is exactly opposite to that for much of the produce and seafood Hokkaido is famous for. While he prefers to feature seasonal products, the same Niseko weather that brings its legendary snowfall, drawing powder hounds from around the world, drives Maeda south to source ingredients from Japan’s more temperate climes. He continues, nevertheless, undeterred in his quest to share Hokkaido’s abundance with the rest of Japan and the world beyond. Since moving to Niseko five years ago, Maeda has developed an interest in the traditional cuisine of the Ainu, Hokkaido’s indigenous people. By foraging through the mountains with Ainu guides, he has learned a great deal about their ingredients and cooking techniques. An Dining has already begun serving a special Ainu set meal, available only on summer weekends. It features his take on such traditional dishes as yuk ohaw , a wild venison stew with a stock made from two wild plants, an alpine leek called pukusa and a windflower called pukusakina . “You can actually get most fruits and vegetables anywhere in Japan and, in fact, all around the world,” says Maeda. “But the wild mountain vegetables and grasses – that’s the real local Hokkaido flavor.” He looks forward to someday soon writing a cookbook and opening a bush restaurant showcasing a fresh culinary approach that combines elements of wild mountain plants from Ainu traditions and modern ingredients grown, caught, and produced in Hokkaido. “I hope when people visit here a hundred years from now, they’ll call this new type of cooking ‘traditional Hokkaido cuisine.’”

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Shinichi 还善用自身的人脉以更加了解产品。例如,他 为协助岩宇沿海地区三个渔村内的当地企业,开始尝试新食 谱来重塑和料理干海参,成功提升技术,缩短原先需两到四 天的补水过程。他说 : 「这完全取决于温度和你想要的嫩度。 65 度是最低温,可以让海参软嫩到在二十小时内皆可食用。」 Shinichi 现在担任当地代表岩宇渔业的海参海胆贸易公司─ Kit Blue 的官方大使。 「An Dining」的冬季菜单有海参,但在夏季,尤其是七月 下旬,客人可以享受马粪海胆和紫海胆的旺季。虽然人们普遍 认为,较为昂贵的短刺马粪海胆比长刺紫海胆更鲜甜美味,但 在与渔民密切合作后,Shinichi 不同意。他说 : 「当我订购时没 有指明要马粪海胆或紫海胆,只是让渔民提供任何当下现有且 品质最佳的品种。」两种海胆在餐厅的价位一样,所以他说: 「有 时会亏钱,但我希望客人能够品尝当天现有的最好食材,而且 我想证明这两种海胆的品质并没有差别。」 对 Shinichi 而言,讽刺的是,该地区的旅游旺季与北海 道大部分知名农产与海产的旺季截然相反。由于无论如何都


A I N U - S T Y L E F LO U N D E R B OT TA R G A A N D C U R E D W I L D V E N I S O N , S A L M O N TATA K I , A N D M A N D A R I N - P E P P E R- A N D - M I L L E T C A K E 阿伊努风味龙利鱼籽酱、腌渍野鹿肉、霜烧鲑鱼、 花椒及软米糕

“Honestly, it would be difficult to make traditional Ainu food tasty by modern standards, because they only had salt for seasoning and preserving foods. There was no fermentation for soy sauce or miso. Their salmon tataki would use the head, soft roe, and side fins. But that is very strongly flavored, so I make a milder version of just the salmon meat with the roe added on top.” 「老实说,要把传统的阿伊努菜做得让现代人觉得好吃,实在 不太容易,因为阿伊努人只用了盐一种佐料来调味和保存食 物 ;没有酱油,也没有味噌等发酵食材。传统的霜烧鲑鱼会 使用鱼头、鱼籽和鱼鳍,但这种作法口味实在太重,因此我 发明在鲑鱼肉上点缀几颗鱼籽的清淡版本。 」

倾向使用时令食材,因此在相同天气状况下,壮观的降雪吸 引了世界各地的白雪爱好者来到新雪谷,而 Shinichi 却要往 南,在气候更温和之处寻找食材。 再者,他仍持续追寻如何与日本其他地区和世界各国分 享北海道的丰富资源。自从五年前搬到新雪谷以来,Shinichi 一直对北海道原住民阿伊努人的传统美食深感兴趣,并且与 阿伊努导游一同在山林中野外采集,他学到很多相关食材与 厨艺。「An Dining」已经开始提供特别的阿伊努套餐,仅在 夏季周末供应,其中包括传统菜肴如 yuk ohaw,野生鹿肉炖 汤,汤底是以高山韭菜和银莲花熬制而成。 「其实在日本任何地方就可以取得许多蔬果, Shinichi 说 : 事实上在世界各地也都有,但山野的蔬菜和草木才是真正的 北海道道地风味。」他期待在不久的将来出版食谱并开设一家 丛林餐厅,展示新的烹饪方法,将阿伊努传统的野生植物结 合北海道种植、捕获与生产的现代食材。Shinichi 续说 : 「我 希望一百年后,当人们来到这儿,会把这种新兴烹饪方式称 为『传统北海道料理』。」 north to niseko

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TASTING DESTINATION

两季物语

A TALE OF TWO SEASONS A Hokkaido-born chef finds inspiration in Niseko’s bountifully disparate times of year.

新雪谷第一家也是唯一一家米其林星 Y U I C H I KAM I M U RA, chef-owner of Kamimura, Niseko’s ,其老板兼主厨 级 餐 厅「Kamimura」 first and only Michelin-starred restaurant, casts an appraising Yuichi Kamimura 将审视的眼光投向了 eye over the little garden and burbling brook just outside his 他的第二家现代风餐厅「Kitchen」外 second restaurant, a modern dining lounge called Kitchen. He 的一座小花园及潺潺流动 considers the effort it would take to clear the wild 的 小 溪。 他 盘 算 着 如 果 将 BY vegetation from this little oasis and grow some 这 些 杂 草 清 除, 把 这 块 小 MAMIE CHEN vegetables and herbs for his two establishments. 绿洲用来种两家餐厅所需 • Undecided for the moment, he shrugs.

Stripe prawn capellini dressed in kombu and herring roe, topped with cauliflower purée and garnished with purple cabbage powder and oregano flower 昆布鲱鱼籽裹斑纹虾天使面, 搭配白花椰泥,放上紫 高丽菜粉、牛至花

的 蔬 菜 及 香 草, 得 花 多 少 PHOTOGRAPHY BY While it might be a fun project for him and 心 力。 犹 豫 不 决 的 他, 耸 DAVID HARTUNG his team, truth be told, Kamimura already has 了耸肩。 abundant sources of high-quality ingredients from 对 Yuichi 与团队来说,这个计划 Niseko and its environs. He works closely with a handful of 是挺有趣,但事实上,Yuichi 的身边便 farmers that he visits nearly every day during the summer, 围绕着各式各样新雪谷高品质农作物。 always on the lookout for what he might be able to use. He’s 他与许多地方农夫紧密合作,每当夏 also a big fan of Niseko View Plaza, Japan’s top-rated rest 季几乎天天光顾农场,时刻注意有什 stop that features a farmers market supplied by over sixty 么食材能用。在日本首屈一指的新雪 local growers. “I can’t visit everyone’s farm, but at the plaza, 谷道路休息站内,有处超过六十位农 I can see all the new things starting to come in.” He scouts 夫组成的农夫市集,也同样经常能见 the market once a week himself, and his staff returns to buy 「我去不了每 到他的身影。Yuichi 说 : what’s needed for each day’s menu. 座农场,但在这个市集,我只要等着 “Every week, the season changes, what’s available 各种新鲜货自动出现就好。 」他每周亲 changes, and my dishes start to change as well. It all depends 自到市集一次,标注需采购的食材后, on what I find at the farms and the market.” At the end of 再由员工对照每日菜单前往购买。 July, his dish of roast Niseko summer vegetables includes 「每周,随着时令变化, Yuichi 称 : basil, zucchini, cauliflower, purple cauliflower, broccoli, peas,

lime cucumber, and kale. Later in the summer, eggplant may feature prominently, replacing the broccoli and cauliflower. Complemented by a daub of black garlic mayonnaise and

市集产品也随之而变,我的料理自然 也不尽相同,菜式全凭我在农场及市 集的收获来创作。 」七月底时,他的新 north to niseko

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TASTING DESTINATION Squid fritto with Niseko tomato salsa and rocket 炸乌贼搭配新雪谷 番茄莎莎酱及芝麻菜

topped with a dehydrated kale crisp, the salad pays beautifully simple homage to the natural flavors and textures of the coolclimate vegetables. Kamimura similarly emphasizes the freshness of his ingredients in the restaurant’s squid fritto. First marinating the seafood in kombu, ginger, and sesame, he flash-fries it for just ten seconds for a crispy outside and a sashimi-style inside, smoothly chewy and delicately sweet. The squid is served over a tangy salsa, bright with the savory-sweetness of freshly picked heirloom tomatoes. But for all of Hokkaido’s generous summer bounty – the island accounts for a quarter of Japan’s cultivated acreage – its growing season is surprisingly short. When, from mid-November through mid-April, Kamimura’s would-be garden and the local farms lie dormant under a thick blanket of snow, the chef gets more creative with his ingredients. “Even in the wintertime,” says Kamimura, “my goal is to use as many Hokkaido products as possible. We have the root vegetables, and we also use local dairy and tofu made from Hokkaido soybeans.” The team often calls upon summer vegetables that were frozen, dried, or preserved for year-round use. By way of example, the chef presents a crêpe originally created for last winter’s degustation menu. Made from beetroot purée, it has a rich filling of Hokkaido tofu and Hokkaido cream cheese. The restaurant closes for six weeks every October-November to allow Kamimura and his team time to focus on menu development. “Every year, we want to create something new for the winter menu, something never seen before.” Something, in other words, that expresses the pure, clean flavors of Hokkaido in Kamimura’s passionate yet decisively refined manner. north to niseko

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TASTING DESTINATION

↑ Roasted vegetable salad 烤时蔬沙拉 → Niseko beetroot crêpe with olives, tofu cream, and plum jam 新雪谷甜菜根可丽饼搭配 橄榄、豆腐酱和梅酱

Chef-owner Yuichi Kamimura

“A playground for adults” is his concept of fine dining, one that offers guests a full and authentic experience of good food with good wine in good company. “When my restaurants are packed with people enjoying their time eating, drinking, and laughing together, then I’m so happy,” he says. “I love the life here. In the winter, Niseko is so busy, and I love the energy and atmosphere. In the summer, I enjoy finding and cooking fresh Hokkaido ingredients. Then we can be nice and relaxed when we share it with our guests – how good is that?”

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雪谷烤夏日时蔬沙拉包含罗勒、西葫芦、白花椰、紫花椰、 西兰花、豌豆、青柠黄瓜、羽衣甘蓝。夏末期间,就会改用 茄子取代花椰菜作为料理的主角。此道沙拉完整保留温带蔬 菜的天然滋味与口感,佐黑蒜美乃滋及脱水羽衣甘蓝脆片, 享用美味之余更尊重大自然。 另一道炸乌贼也蕴含 Yuichi 对食材新鲜度的坚持。先将 乌贼以昆布、姜与芝麻腌渍,接着放入热油中快炸十秒,​​使 外皮金黄酥脆,内层依然保有生食般的口感,尝起来滑顺、 嚼劲十足又鲜甜。最后与新鲜腌渍的香甜原种番茄及浓郁莎 莎酱搭配上桌。 北海道的物产在夏天是如此丰饶而富足,算起来全日本


约四分之一的耕地面积就在这座岛上,然而占地虽广,产季

专心研发菜单。他解释说 : 「每年我们都会在冬季菜单中创

却短到令人感到诧异。从十一月中到隔年四月中,Yuichi 常

造一些前所未见的新菜式。 」换句话说,餐厅希望能以 Yuichi

造访的田园、农场,都将休眠于厚厚的雪衣之下,这时主厨

对食物的热情及秉持精致、果断的风格,透过更多原创菜式,

就更加需要发挥创意搜寻食材。

展现北海道的纯净原味。

「就算是冬天,我还是希望尽可能多用北海 Yuichi 说 :

「大人的游乐场」是 Yuichi 对精致饮食的诠释,希望让

道的自家农产品。我们有根茎类蔬菜,也会利用当地乳制品

顾客能与对的同伴,一同感受道地的美酒佳肴。他说 : 「看到

及北海道黄豆做的豆腐来料理。 」团队会将夏天的蔬果冷冻、

餐厅里的宾客,一同吃着、喝着、笑着,共同享受着美好时光,

风干、保存,冬天就能用来入菜。作为示范,主厨现做一道

我就会感到由衷的快乐。我热爱这里的生活。在冬天,新雪

去年冬天特制品尝菜单中的可丽饼,主材料为甜菜根泥,加

谷熙熙攘攘,我就喜欢这样的活力与氛围。到了夏天,我可

入北海道豆腐与北海道奶酪酱的香浓内馅。

以尽情在各种北海道食材中探索、尝试新食材。上菜给宾客

十月至十一月,餐厅会休业六周,让 Yuichi 与其团队能

后,就能沉浸于这样愉快又轻松的气氛,夫复何求呢?」 north to niseko

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The HakuSteak: Shiraoi A4 wagyu strip steak, seared eryngii, soubise, wasabi chimichurri, and blueberry compote 嘉士伯碳烤牛排:北海道白老町 A4 和牛西冷、 香煎杏鲍菇、洋葱酱、芥末香草酱、蓝莓果酱


TASTING DESTINATION

Executive Chef Luiz Low

牛排升级 全新食感

STEAK SUPREME Some families hold game nights, others watch movies together. For the past twenty years, the extended Chen family has found collective inspiration in steak.

大部分家庭活动不外乎聚在一起玩玩桌上游戏,有些则 INITIALLY, IT WAS BONDING OVER DINNERS at Peter 偏好一起看电影。而对陈氏家族来说,过去二十年间最 Luger Steak House in Brooklyn, New York, and later it became 重要的事,就是找到对牛排的全新灵感。 a competition to replicate the legendary porterhouse at home. 家族成员在纽约布鲁克林区「Peter Luger」牛排 “We started by trying to make a better version of their steak,” 馆的聚会,是一切的开端,之后他们便在 says Michael Chen. “Over time, we inevitably BY 家中竞相努力,期望打造出同样高级的餐 diverged in style from each other and even from MAMIE CHEN 「起初我 馆。Michael Chen( 陈 仁 杰 ) 说 : Peter Luger.” • 们试着做出他们家牛排的『升级版』 ,但久 Chen is founder of HakuLife, which develops PHOTOGRAPHY BY 而久之便发展出各自的风格,甚至和『Peter and manages fully staffed ski chalets and villas DAVID HARTUNG Luger』的风格渐行渐远。」 and will soon open the HakuSteak restaurant at HakuVillas in Niseko’s Upper Grand Hirafu Village. Michael 是白鸟生活的创始人,负责经 营人员众多的滑雪小木屋及别墅,并即将在新雪谷大比 “I’m a big fan of letting the natural flavor of the meat 罗夫上村的白鸟山庄开设全新的「白鸟牛排馆」 。 shine,” he says. “My goals are to find the right salt and pepper 「我非常坚持要充分发挥牛肉的原味。 combination to bring out and enhance those natural flavors and Michael 说 : 我的目标在于找到盐巴和胡椒的正确配方,以带出肉品 to create a better crust than even Luger’s.” Chen’s steak, the 自然风味,并创造出比『Peter Luger』更美味的牛排外 clear winner by general consensus among family and friends, 皮。 」Michael 的牛排已成为亲朋好友口中的上乘之选。 was the result of endless and painstaking experimentation with 这是他无数次辛苦实验的结果,包括不同的牛排切法和 a list of variables that included the cut of steak and its thick厚度、盐巴和胡椒的种类和研磨方式、烤盘的温度,以 ness, the type and grinding method of salt and pepper, the grill 及烹饪和静置时间等各项变素的测试及调整。 temperature, and the cooking and resting times. 白鸟山是 Michael 第一家供餐的新雪谷滑雪度假屋。 At Hakuchōzan, his first catered ski chalet in Niseko, Chen north to niseko

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他发现日本牛肉的高脂肪含量,会让更多油滴落到烘烤设备 上,进而燃起较大的火焰穿透炉格,为外皮的口感增色。他 说: 「只要能在烹调牛排时,精准掌控这样的火焰,就能更 加提升牛排的口感与层次。 」 行 政 主 厨 Luiz Low 加 装 了 一 台 嘉 士 伯 炭 火 烤 箱, 让 Michael 的独家料理更上一层楼。他说这台烤箱能达到更高 的烹饪温度,制作出更酥脆的外皮,并带来迷人的烟熏味。

Luiz 和团队也曾前往北海道寻找最上等的和牛。在深入 的研究以及无数次的品尝后,他们终于和白老町一处小型家 庭牧场达成协议,独家购买其遵循全天然古法豢养所生产的 「他们的目标并不在赚钱,而是期许能制作 牛肉。Luiz 说 : 出健康的牛肉,供家族成员享用,甚至没想过把牛肉卖给别 Uni in a Claypot: Hokkaido sea urchin, truffle, fried shallot, aromatic shoyu, rice 白鸟山庄海胆煲仔饭:北海道海胆、 松露、炸小洋葱、香酱油、米饭

人。我们花了好几个月展现我们的决心并坚称会严守他们的 信念,才说服他们。 」 至于「白鸟牛排馆」 ,Luiz 打造了以现代精致怀石晚餐 为主轴的餐厅,并以当地的星辰美景招揽游客。菜单上的料 理也展露来自日本、法国和地中海菜肴的影响,以及自产地 直取新鲜食材的坚持。例如别出心裁的尼斯沙拉便挑选当地 农夫种植的小黄瓜、四季豆和各种野菜,以及炙烧中鲔鱼腹。

found that the higher fat content of Japanese beef meant more of it dripping onto the grill’s heating element, which in turn caused greater flare-up through the grates and an improved crust on the steak. “Learning how to cook with that flame took the steak to another level,” he says. Executive Chef Luiz Low has further upped the ante on Chen’s winning recipe by installing a Josper charcoal oven, which he says can hit higher cooking temperatures for a crispier crust while also imparting a wonderfully smoky flavor. Low and his team also went on a hunt for the best wagyu in Hokkaido; after extensive research and multiple rounds of taste testing, they finally secured exclusive rights to buy their beef from a small family-owned farm in Shiraoi that follows all-natural, very traditional Japanese cattleraising practices. “Their goal is not to make money,” says Low. “They said their vision is to produce healthy beef for their family, and they weren’t even interested in selling their meat. It took us months to convince them that we respect their product and to prove our commitment.” For the HakuSteak, Low has developed a restaurant with a modern, refined kaiseki dinner menu that features the star attraction. The food also draws influence from Japanese, French, and Mediterranean cuisines and reflects his passion for sourcing fresh local ingredients. His salade niçoise, for instance, is artfully composed to highlight cucumbers, haricots verts, and other garden vegetables grown by local farmers as well as the dish’s seared maguro

chutoro . Low’s unique take on katsu sando tops the decadent wagyu sandwich with ikura , scallop, uni, and king crab. “It’s the ultimate surf and turf combination,” says Low of his invention. “And all from Hokkaido, of course.”

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Luiz 对炸肉排三明治也有独特见解 :他将鲑鱼籽、扇贝、海 胆和帝王蟹肉放在奢华的和牛三明治上。Luiz 谈论着他惊人 的发明 : 「这就是所谓的『究极海陆大餐』 ,当然这一切都来 自北海道!」

HakuKatsu Sando: Shiraoi A4 wagyu, onion jam, ikura, scallop, uni, king crab meat 炸肉排三明治:北海道白老町 A4 和牛、 洋葱酱、鲑鱼籽、扇贝、海胆、帝王蟹肉


TASTING DESTINATION

Hakuchōzan cheese platter: locally grown grapes and lingonberries, Hokkaido-sourced cheeses, and smoked tofu made with natural spring water from nearby Yoteizan no Wakimizu 白鸟山奶酪拼盘:当地种植的葡萄 和越橘、北海道奶酪、以邻近的羊 蹄山真狩村涌泉制成的烟熏豆腐


THE KITCHEN

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新雪谷荞麦面

NISEKO SOBA Senior writer MAMIE CHEN and photographer DAVID HARTUNG go into the kitchen to witness the spellbinding artistry behind a Japanese classic.

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THE KITCHEN

PLAIN, COLD SOBA NOODLES served with a cup of dipping sauce appear to be the simplest of offerings. But we’re in a land where artisans spend years, even decades, honing their crafts with singular devotion and where shibui aesthetics find beauty in simplicity, sophistication in subtlety. In Japan, a dish like this deserves a closer look. We marvel at the uniformity of the hand-cut noodles at Teuchi-Soba Ichimura in Niseko, admiring their slender elegance. We dip a third of their ample length in tsuyu  sauce and slurp them up lustily, the better to draw in air and enhance the nuttiness of the noodles and the rich aromas of the sauce. We chew, noticing how buckwheat soba are less yielding than those made with wheat flour. In appreciating the unobtrusive details, the hidden complexities of the soba are revealed and appreciated. There are only two components in the recipe, buckwheat flour and water (for nihachi soba, the softer, more elastic variety, wheat flour makes up 20 percent of the dry ingredients). The buckwheat at Teuchi-Soba Ichimura, which

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质朴的荞麦冷面配上一碗沾面酱汁,看似 是一道再简单不过的料理。然而,在这个 国度,一个「职人」愿意花上数年甚至数 十年一心奉献于这项工艺 ;在这里, 「涩之 美」在简约、精致和细微中找到美感。在

Takahiro portions out a serving of mori soba. Maki Takahiro 分 出一份冷荞麦面。

日本,像荞麦冷面的料理也值得一窥其妙。 在 新 雪 谷 的 手 打 荞 麦 面 店「TeuchiSoba Ichimura」, 手 切 面 条 的 一 致 性 令 人 为之惊叹,不禁佩服它们的细致美感。我 们将面条的三分之一浸入酱油露中,再呼 噜呼噜地大口品尝,最好是要同时吸入空 气来增添面条的果仁香和酱汁的浓郁香气, 我们在咀嚼时发现荞麦制的面条比小麦面 粉制的更有嚼劲。 在赞叹微妙细节之时,荞麦面中所隐 藏的繁复之美也展露无遗,令人叹为观止。 制面配方中只有两种成分 ─ 荞麦面粉 和 水( 像 是 更 柔 软、 弹 牙 的 二 八 荞 麦 面, 小麦面粉就占其干粉中的两成) 。 「Teuchi-

Soba Ichimura」的荞麦购自黑松内町的农 民,每天在餐厅用石具磨制以保有最佳新 鲜度,水则选用来自新雪谷本身的天然泉 水。制作荞麦面的真正奥妙之处在于这些 成分如何在大师手中融为一体。 师傅用灵巧的双手将面粉和水混合在 一起,用碗按压小结块,直到完全成为一 north to niseko

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The standard soba served at Ichimura is the softer nihachi variety, which is made with 80 percent buckwheat flour and 20 percent wheat flour. Juwari soba, made with 100 percent buckwheat, is available upon request. 餐厅供应的标准荞麦面是偏软的二八荞麦面,由八成荞麦面粉和两成小麦面粉所制成, 也可以依客人要求,提供由百分之一百荞麦所制成的十割荞麦面。

is sourced from a local farmer in Kuromatsunai, is stone-ground daily in the restaurant for maximum freshness, and the water comes from Niseko’s own natural spring. The true magic of soba-making is in the way these ingredients come together in the hands of a master. With deft passes of the hand, the chef combines flour and water, pressing small clumps against the bowl until they merge into a single, supple ball. On a work surface generously dusted with flour, or uchiko , the chef presses one palm down on the edge while cupping the dough and rotating it a few degrees. Press, shift, press, shift. His movements are efficient and graceful. After another dusting, the chef lightly grasps a wooden dowel, or noshibo , and, with fingers curled loosely and hands spread wide apart, exerts an even pressure, rolling it back and forth over the dough, which he occasionally rotates. As it gets larger, he begins to expertly roll and stretch the dough into a rectangle by furling and unfurling it around the noshibo . Furl, unfurl. Furl, unfurl. Then with a generous dusting of flour between each layer, he folds it in half and then in half again. A wooden board, or komaita , is laid atop the dough to guide a special knife,

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团柔软的球状为止,然后潇洒地在工作台 上撒上面粉来防黏,用一手的掌心揉压面 团边缘,同时曲起手掌来托住面团并稍稍 旋转移动,揉、移、揉、移,手艺精准而 优雅。 当再次撒上面粉来防黏后,师傅双 手轻轻地握住擀面棍,手指微弯,两手完 全分开让压力能均匀分散,擀面棍在面团 上来回滚动,并偶尔旋转方向。随着面皮 的面积渐渐增大,他开始用擀面棍轻轻地 卷收几次,熟练地将面皮形塑成一面矩形, 滚擀、卷收、滚擀、卷收,然后在每层面 皮间洒上大量的面粉,对折再对折。 在面团上头放上一片木板,再拿出 一把专门用来削切和舀挖的特制刀,师傅 以惊人的速度、灵巧度和精确度落刀、起


THE KITCHEN

Ichimura’s tsuyu is made with a special dashi that contains five types of dried fish. Counterclockwise from top left: old bonito, young bonito, auxis, sardine, mackerel (saba), kombu seaweed, and horse mackerel (aji) 餐厅选用的日式酱油露是由含有五种鱼干的特殊日式高汤制成。左上角起逆时针方向:老鲣鱼、小鲣鱼、花鲣鱼、沙丁鱼、鲭鱼、昆布、池鱼。

a sobakiri , that is specially shaped for cutting and scooping. With incredible speed, dexterity, and precision, the chef pushes the knife down and forward, down and forward, down and forward, making clean cuts of uniformly thin strands. Gathering batches of noodles and patting off excess flour, he twists them into loose skeins and arranges them in a wooden box. Later, the chef dangles a skein above a pot of boiling water and, wiggling his fingers to loosen the strands, lets them fall. After a single stir and within a minute, they’re scooped out with a draining basket and rinsed in cold water. Traditional mori soba is served chilled, tangled deliciously on a zaru, a bamboo serving mat, and accompanied by  tsuyu , spring onion and wasabi, for dipping. When their noodles are gone, guests are encouraged to pour some  sobayu , the cooking water, into the remaining  tsuyu  and sip it like soup. Oishī ! “It’s the fresh air and the fresh water here,” says Maki Takahiro, owner of Teuchi-Soba Ichimura. “If I followed this whole process in Sapporo, it wouldn’t taste the same. Everything is better in Niseko.”

手、落刀、起手、落刀再起手,俐落地切 出纤细一致的面条。集结一整批的面条并 拍下多余的面粉,将它们缕成松散的面条 团并置于一个木盒中。 然后,师傅手握一束面条悬在一锅滚 滚热水上方,晃动手指让面条松开掉入水 中,搅拌一次,在一分钟内就用沥水篮舀 出面条并放入冷水轻洗。 传统的冷荞麦面盛于竹垫之上,蘸上 日式酱油露、青葱和芥末。食用完面条后, 会鼓励客人将荞麦汤倒入剩余的酱油露中, 然后像喝汤一样啜饮,实在是太美味了! 「Teuchi-Soba Ichimura」的老板 Maki 「这里有新鲜的空气和水质。 Takahiro 说 : 就算在札幌依照相同制程,口感也会不同。 所有的一切在新雪谷就是更好。 」 north to niseko

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独特饮食体验

EXPERIENTIAL EATING In Niseko, a creator brings his unique artistic vision to life.

“I’M ALWAYS TRYING to develop something that’s very different from the norm,” says Shouya Grigg, founder of Somoza, an intriguing blend of cafe, restaurant, teahouse, and art space. “I say to people, this is somewhere you can dine, have a cup of tea or coffee, purchase handmade items or my art, and look at artifacts in this amazing location.” Hugging the Hanazono hills of Niseko on the Japanese island of Hokkaido, Somoza is the brainchild of a serial entrepreneur who opened what were considered the town’s first upmarket dining establishments in 2005. Somoza, whose name

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「Somoza」 餐 厅 巧 妙 结 合 咖 啡 厅、 餐 厅、 茶 馆 及 艺 廊。 餐 厅 创 办 人 「我总是尝试做 Shouya Grigg 说 : 些独树一格、与众不同的事。我告 诉人们,来到这里,您可以享用一 顿饭、品尝杯茶或咖啡,买些我的 手工艺品或欣赏馆内陈设。 」 「Somoza」紧邻北海道新雪谷的


TASTING DESTINATION

Scallop carpaccio 薄切生扇贝

combines the first letters of those of Grigg’s three children, opened two and a half years ago. Paying homage to Hokkaido’s indigenous culture, Somoza offers dishes influenced by ingredients that were consumed centuries ago by the region’s inhabitants. The basement gallery exhibits Grigg’s own art, along with a collection of historical artifacts from Hokkaido. Traditional Japanese tea ceremonies are offered in a tatami tea room in a top-floor space and in the gallery. “Through the gallery,” explains Grigg, “you’re able to travel on a journey across the ages. And it connects with the ‘experiential dining’ on our menu.” During what Grigg calls Niseko’s “green season,” following its famously snowfilled winters, the dishes are as fresh as they are eclectic. Summer produce abounds, and Somoza’s menus are inspired by nature, taking full advantage of what is available locally. “Like most things we do, none of it is typically Japanese or Western – it’s a mix.” Somoza’s scallop carpaccio is made with cherry vinaigrette and red shiso, and

新雪谷花园,这却并非 Shouya 的 首家企业,早在 2005 年,他已创 立镇上第一家高级餐厅。 「Somoza」 于 两 年 半 前 盛 大 开 幕, 名 称 取 自

Shouya 三 位 儿 女 的 名 字 字 首。 餐 厅建筑体为日本南部的老农舍,经 拆解再运到新雪谷重建。 「Somoza」根据数世纪前当地 居民的每日饮食来选择食材,以向 北海道传统文化致敬。顾客可在地 下室艺廊欣赏 Shouya 自创作品及 北海道的历史文物收藏,亦可在艺 廊或餐厅顶楼的榻榻米房内体验道 「透过 地日本茶道。Shouya 解释 : 艺廊,人们能体验文化、游历古今, north to niseko

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Pan-seared pork 香煎豚肉

the cold soup contains a purée of Hokkaido potatoes, a stock with leeks and herbs, and udo, a wild mountain vegetable that sprouts in the spring. Pan-seared pork with fermented rice is served with fresh summer b ea n s a n d c r i s py o n i o n s fo r tex t u ra l contrast. A pasta dish, served with blue crab sourced from the nearby fishing town of Iwanai, is cooked in tomato stock made with shells from the crustacean. And a puff-pastry dessert features lavender from a local farm and haskap , a berry native to Hokkaido.

Cold Hokkaido potato soup 北海道马铃薯冻汤

In many ways, says Grigg, Somoza is the culmination of his background in hospitality. Originally from England, he moved to Australia as a teenager. Following work as a DJ, photographer, and creative director and after trotting around the globe, he settled in Hokkaido, where he’s had a hand in restaurants, bars, hotels, and restoration projects. He doesn’t , however, want to be labeled as commercial. “I’m an artist and creator first,” he says, “and, in some ways, that seems to make everything more special.”

而这些文化会与菜单设计的『体验式饮食』 有所连结。 」 雪白的冬季过后,新雪谷将迎来 Shouya 所说的「绿色季节」 ,届时菜式将既新鲜又 丰 富 多 样。 夏 季 农 产 丰 饶, 「Somoza」 的 菜单正好取自田野,将当地食材物尽其用。 「如我们一贯作风,没有什么是 Shouya 称 : 绝对的日式或西式,而是汲取其中最美妙的 融合点。 」 「Somoza」的薄切生扇贝利用了樱 桃香醋以及红紫苏,而冻汤亦加入北海道马 铃薯泥、韭菜草本高汤,以及只在春季才找 到的野生食材 — 土当归。香煎豚肉佐米酿则 搭配上新鲜夏豆及酥炸洋葱,增添对比口感。 另一道菜是意大利面,使用邻近渔村岩内 町的美味蓝蟹,放入小型虾蟹熬煮的番茄高 汤中慢炖。最后的酥皮甜点,也善用当地农 场的薰衣草,及北海道原生莓果 — 蓝靛果。

Shouya 表 示,「Somoza」 完 整 体 现 他 的 成长背景及好客性格。他生于英国,少年时 移居澳洲,当过 DJ、摄影师、创意总监,于 世界各地奔波后,在北海道定居,跨足餐厅、 酒吧、酒店及重建计划。然而,他并不想被 贴上商业味浓厚的标签 : 「我从艺术及创作起 家,这影响了我的思维理念,让一切变得不 落俗套。 」 north to niseko

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适逢佳味

ACCIDENTALLY DELICIOUS A potato producer, with the encouragement of a respected restaurateur, turns a chance event into a thriving concern.

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→ Naniwatei’s 540 Days Aged Potatoes 540日熟成马铃薯 ↓ Hiromi Homma

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Hiromi Homma 在自家马铃薯产业工作期间,某日发现被遗忘了近 一年半的马铃薯库存。此前,Hiromi 在酒店业务合作中认识了当 地极具声名的「俱知安町新雪谷浪花亭」餐厅老板 Koji Murai,因 此 Hiromi 决定将这些可食用马铃薯送到他手中鉴定。Koji 回忆道 : 「他们看起来品质非常好,我忍不住提议,为何不将它们卖出去 ?」 于是,Hiromi 在 2017 年以 540 日熟成马铃薯发展新事业。 这些冰存马铃薯直到被发现,已历经精确 540 天的湿式熟成过程, 其独具的甜味可归功于新雪谷特有的风土环境特质,包括传颂悠 久的粉雪 (power snow)。由此,Hiromi 得以跻身到善用当地天 然资源拓展事业的生产商之列。他说 : 「这些土壤是大地恩赐的宝 物。 」 「清蒸并仅用些许盐 Koji 在菜单中特别提及美味诀窍。他说 : 巴调味,可突出马铃薯最佳口感与风味。 」餐厅开创崭新经营理念, 将两种深受欢迎的日式料理形式融合 :一种是「炉端烧」 ,字面意 义为「炉边烹调」 ,也就是在宾客面前带来开放式炙烧料理 ;另一 种是「怀石」 ,以一系列小口份量且精致的菜式呈现。Koji 说道 : 「炉端烧是一种比较平易近人的料理模式,而我想加入一点怀石的 元素。 」餐厅于 2016 年开张,成为自 1962 年以来,所属札幌家族 企业的首家分店。

540 日熟成马铃薯亦运销到新雪谷、札幌及东京等地的其他 「这样独特的风味是绝对模仿 餐厅。Hiromi 不担心被仿制。他说 : 不来的,除非他们在别处能找到同样的土壤质地。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (4 + PRECEDING PAGE )

WHILE WORKING at the family potato business, Hiromi Homma one day came upon leftover stock that had been forgotten for a year and a half. He decided to show the apparently edible potatoes to Koji Murai, proprietor of restaurant Robata Niseko Naniwatei, whom he’d met through hospitality connections. “They still looked perfect,” remembers Murai, whose restaurant is one of the most highly regarded in the area. “I said why don’t you sell these?” Homma established his new venture, 540 Days Aged Potatoes, in 2017. The tubers undergo a wet-aging process in a refrigerator for 540 days, the precise period that the original ones had been left before discovery. They have a distinctly sweet taste that Homma says is due to Niseko’s unique combination of growing conditions, including its legendary powder snow: “The soil we have here is a gift.” Homma is just one among many producers in the area who have learned how to make the most of the resort’s agricultural advantages. “The best way to bring out the utmost flavor in this potato is to steam it and sprinkle it with salt,” says Murai, who features it on his menu. In a firstof-its-kind concept , Robata Niseko Naniwatei blends two beloved forms of Japanese cuisine: robatayaki, literally “fireside cooking,” in which dishes are barbecued before guests on an open grill, and kaiseki, which presents a series of exquisite, often bite-size dishes. “Robatayaki is very casual,” says Murai, “and I wanted to combine the kaiseki element.” Opened in 2016, the restaurant is an offshoot of a family business in Sapporo that dates to 1962. 540 Days Aged Potatoes are also distributed to other restaurants in Niseko, Sapporo, and Tokyo. Homma isn’t worried about copycats: “It would be hard for them to emulate. Only if they found the same soil conditions elsewhere could they hope to succeed.”


↙ Daikon, pumpkin, pod pea, burdock, eggplant, carrot and maple-shaped wheat gluten simmered in dashi 汤煮大根、南瓜、碗豆、牛蒡、 茄子、胡萝卜及枫叶形状的面筋 ↓ Koji Murai

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雪 国 仲 夏

There’s way more to this celebrated Hokkaido resort than skiing and snowboarding. BY ANDREA LO

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

EVERY WINTER, skiers and snowboarders from around the world flock to Niseko for its legendary powder snow. Located on Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaido about a two-hour drive from Sapporo, this once quiet and secret paradise for in-the-know snow bunnies has emerged as a cosmopolitan resort offering world-class dining and luxury accommodations. The town began to take off over the last fifteen years or so, but even with so much development, built largely to cater to the needs of the growing numbers of international visitors in snow season, Niseko becomes noticeably quieter in the warmer months. This is ironic, given that during the green season the region produces an abundance of top-quality culinary ingredients, from fruits and vegetables to seafood, and that its temperate summer weather makes it a prime outdoor-lifestyle destination. With this year’s G20 Tourism Summit, the international forum for tourism ministers, set to take place in Niseko this fall, there’s no better time to explore what this special place has to offer year-round, from top-flight restaurants, bars, and hotels to unique tourist experiences.

每年冬天,来自世界各地的滑雪和单板滑雪 爱好者接踵而至,来到新雪谷找寻传说中的 粉雪。 新雪谷位于日本最北端的北海道岛 屿,距离札幌约两小时车程,这座曾是个以 雪兔而知名的幽静天堂,现已化身成为有着 世界级餐饮和豪华住宿的国际级度假胜地。 这个小镇大约在十五年前开始蓬勃发展,主 要是为了满足雪季时越来越多的国际游客的 需求,但尽管历经了许多开发工作,暖月时 的新雪谷其实相对冷清。 可惜的是,温暖季节才是该地生产众 多优质食材包括蔬果、海鲜的时候,温和的 夏季天气也使其成为户外活动地点的首选。 集结各国观光部长的国际论坛 – G20 旅游高 峰会将于今年秋天在新雪谷举行,这正是来 探索这个特色之地的好时机,从顶级餐厅、 酒吧、酒店到独特的旅游体验,一整年都能 享受无穷乐趣。

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NISEKO TRAVEL

KU TC H A N J A G A F E S T I VA L N I S E KO A U T U M N F O O D F E S T I VA L

俱知安马铃薯节

新雪谷秋季美食节

Every year, about a dozen of Niseko’s best-loved restaurants and bars join forces for an affair that showcases food and drink made from the best of the fall harvest. Held in Hirafu, this year’s event took place across four days in September. Stay tuned for next year’s event, and note that shuttles are available between Sapporo and Niseko.

The potato, or jaga-imo , is without doubt the most famous produce to come out of Kutchan, a town near Niseko. Its annual summer festival pays tribute to the specialty with a massive parade and fireworks display. Expect traditional taiko drumming, performances from jazz bands, and food stalls set up by local restaurants.

每年秋季,十几间新雪谷最受欢迎的餐厅和酒吧会联袂展出以优

马铃薯无疑是新雪谷周边俱知安町最著名的土产,一年一

质秋收制成的美食佳酿。今年九月将在比罗夫举行四天活动。敬

度的夏祭带来大型的游行和烟火表演,还有传统的太鼓表

请关注明年的活动信息,并留意札幌和新雪谷间的接驳车服务。

演、爵士乐演奏以及当地餐馆摆设的小吃摊。

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N I S E KO V I L L A G E 新雪谷度假村滑雪场

Think of a resort that caters to visitors looking to keep their itineraries packed and offers convenient access to things to do. Niseko Village, part of a consortium of area resorts, is a complex with four current accommodations options and luxury hotels Hinode Hills and Ritz-Carlton set to open in 2019 and 2020. Those looking for a homeaway-from-home experience should opt for Kasara Niseko Village Townhouse, a series of spacious three-bedroom, threebathroom serviced residences, complete with kitchen, dining, and laundry facilities. Throughout the village, find spas, onsens , restaurants, and activities for both summer and winter. In the summer, PURE at Niseko Village, a nature activity center, offers plenty of family-friendly leisure choices like tree trekking, zip line tours, rail sliders, and hot air ballooning, to name a few. 新雪谷度假村能够迎合喜欢行程紧凑、交 通便利的游客,它是该地联盟度假区的一 部 分, 目 前 集 结 四 间 住 宿 选 择, 而 奢 华 的逸之彩希尔酒店和丽思卡尔顿酒店将于

2019 年和 2020 年开幕。想体会「宾至如 归」感受的游客,可选择 Kasera 连栋度假 别墅,这包括一系列宽敞三卧室和三浴室 的服务式公寓,配有厨房、餐厅和洗衣设施, 还可在度假村享受水疗中心、温泉、餐饮、 夏季与冬季的体验活动。在夏季,新雪谷 村的户外活动中心「PURE」 ,提供众多适合 家庭的休闲选择,如树林徒行、高空溜索、 轨道滑雪和热气球等等。

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N I S E KO G R E E N FA R M 新雪谷绿色农场

Providing fresh organic produce to eateries around the area, Niseko Green Farm offers summer tours and interactive farming experiences. Depending on the season and the weather, participants can get their hands dirty with seeding, planting, and harvesting. Using produce picked during the tour, visitors are invited to create pizzas in a dedicated space complete with a woodfired oven. As an added plus, there’s an onsite goat farm. 新雪谷绿色农场为当地餐厅供应新鲜有机的 农产品,并为游客提供夏季导览与互动式农 场体验。根据季节和天候状况安排活动,游 客可以亲手播种、栽种和收成作物,并于设

A S P EC T

S H I K I N I S E KO

阿斯佩克特旅馆

四季新雪谷

Luxury vacation accommodations abound in Niseko, but for those who want to be at the heart of the action, Aspect is a highly rated pick. With a coveted location at the heart of Hirafu’s Middle Village – lined with exclusive properties and nicknamed Millionaires Row – this snazzy apartment complex offers two-, three-, and fivebedroom serviced homes. There are amenities like open kitchens and laundry facilities, along with unbeatable views of active stratovolcano Mount Yōtei.

One of the resort town’s latest additions, Shiki, meaning “seasons” in Japanese, is a hotel and dining complex in the heart of buzzing Hirafu Village. The glitzy building comprises the sixty-three apartment suites of Hyatt House Niseko, Michelinstarred restaurant Kamimura, and five other eateries and cafés. 四 季 新 雪 谷 是 度 假 小 镇 中 的 最 新 成 员, ,是一间位 「Shiki」意为日文的「四季」 于热闹的比罗夫村中心,兼具住宿及餐饮 的酒店。这座绚丽的建筑包括凯悦嘉寓酒

有燃木烤箱的专门场地里,以亲自采摘的食 材制作薄饼。农场内亦有一座山羊养殖场供

新雪谷的奢华住宿比比皆是,但对于精益

店的六十三间公寓套房、米其林星级餐厅

游客观赏。

求精的游客,阿斯佩克特旅馆是深受佳评

「Kamimura」以及其他五家餐厅和咖啡店。

的选择。这家时髦的公寓位于比罗夫中村 中心,占尽地理优势,与私人豪宅和昵称 为百万富翁街的街道并列,提供二、三和 五卧室的服务式住宿。除了开放式厨房和 洗衣设备等便利设计,游客更可于旅馆一 览成层活火山 – 羊蹄山的绝色美景。

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TA K A H A S H I D A I R Y FA R M – M I L K KO B O A N D P R AT I V O R E S TA U R A N T 高 桥 牧 场 牛 奶 工 房 和 「 P R AT I V O 」 餐 厅

N I S E KO W I N E R Y 新雪谷酒庄

The area’s first and only winemaker, Niseko Winery, grows its own grapes for producing its range of sparkling wines. Following “the exact same winemaking process as the method used in Champagne,” owner and producer Yasunori Honma takes advantage of a terroir with climatic conditions similar to the famed French winemaking region: mild summers, major day-to-night temperature variation, and high altitude. Made from varieties that include sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, bacchus, Müller-Thurgau, kerner, gewürztraminer, and zweigeltrebe, these certified-organic wines have “very rich, very delicate flavors, similar to the aroma of apple,” says Honma. They have a fine level of acidity, a 20-percent natural sugar content, and “everything is natural.” Honma and his wife live on a property built next to one of the three vineyards he owns, and customers must pay a visit here during the lunch hour to purchase his wine, since it’s not distributed elsewhere. 该地区第一家也是唯一一家的酿酒厂 – 新雪谷酒庄, 以自产葡萄酿造气泡酒。 「酿造过程与制造香槟所使 用的方法完全一致」 ,酒庄所有人兼生产者 Yasunori Honma 充分善用了与法国著名葡萄酒产区相近的气候 条件 ─ 和煦的夏季、最大日夜温差,以及高海拔等特 色,酿造出包括白苏维翁、霞多丽、巴克斯、米勒图高、 肯纳、琼瑶浆和茨威格等酒品。Yasunori 说,这些经 有机认证的葡萄酒「味道丰富细致,犹如苹果香气」 , 蕴含完美酸度与百分之二十的天然含糖量, 「一切都很 天然」 。Yasunori 拥有三座葡萄园,他与妻子住在其中 一座的旁边。商品绝无仅有,建议宾客一定要亲访并 购买葡萄酒,且务必在午餐时间光临,因为别的地方 绝对买不到。

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For ice cream, cakes, cheese tarts, cream puffs, and other sweet treats made from Hokkaido’s famously rich milk, this family-run farm managed by Kei Takai is worth a stop. From its ranch filled with happy cows – who have their own massaging devices – Milk Kobo produces dairy products that are particularly popular with souvenir hunters. While the farm itself is not open to the public, the grounds boast a beautiful field that’s great for strolls in warmer months. Prativo, a restaurant within the grounds, serves simple yet satisfying dishes along with a buffet featuring locally sourced produce. 想要一尝冰淇淋、蛋糕、奶酪挞、奶油泡芙和其他北海道著名鲜奶所 制成的甜点,绝对要造访高桥牧场牛奶工房。牛奶工房中养殖的奶 牛拥有专属的按摩设备,所生产的奶制品成为受欢迎的纪念品。虽 然农场本身不对外开放,但可在温暖月份时漫步于农场的美丽田园。 「Prativo」餐厅座落于田园当中,提供简单又美味的主菜及集结当地 食材烹制各式菜式的自助餐。


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TO S H I R O ’ S B A R A N D N I K K A W H I S K Y YO I C H I D I S T I L L E R Y

Niseko’s favorite watering hole, Toshiro’s Bar, is run by husband-and-wife team Akinori and Yoko Toshiro. With two locations in town to meet wintertime demand, the bar features more than five hundred international varieties of spirits, with a focus on Japanese labels. “When people come here,” says Yoko, “they of course want to try Japanese whisky and gin.” While working in his native Sapporo as a bartender, Akinori “formed a good relationship” with Nikka Whisky, a fabled brand whose Yoichi Distillery was founded in 1934 by the late Masataka Taketsuru, widely regarded as the father of Japanese whisky. The couple, says Akinori, moved to Niseko in 2014 “because of a love of hot springs and snowboarding.” They set up shop and started a reputation of stocking hard-to-come-by spirits from the distillery. Akinori says that to this day he remains the only bartender in town closely affiliated with Nikka. Toshiro’s Bar creations that feature its blends include classics with a twist, like apple whisky, made with malt-rich Nikka Rare Old Super and Nikka Apple Wine; an old-fashioned made with Nikka Whisky from the Barrel; and a cocktail named Smoked Penicillin made with Single Malt Yoichi and Yoichi Peaty & Salty, dramatically presented in a glass case filled with smoke. Those interested in Nikka Whisky’s history can visit the firm’s Yoichi Distillery, an hour’s drive from Niseko in an area known for its water and a climate similar to that of the Scottish Highlands, where Taketsuru learned the craft of whisky-making. Opened in 1934, the distillery offers tours of its facilities and a museum detailing Taketsuru’s story. Nikka’s traditional process, including direct coal-fire distillation, is still in use today. A shop offers a variety of Nikka products, some sold exclusively at the distillery.


「 TO S H I R O 」 酒 吧 及 一 甲 威 士 忌 余 市 蒸 馏 所 新雪谷最受欢迎的品酒之地─「Toshiro」酒吧,由丈夫

Akinori Toshiro 和妻子 Yoko Toshiro 共同经营,在当地 设有两个据点以满足冬季的生意需求。酒吧内备有超过 「人们来 五百种国际烈酒,大多为日本品牌。Yoko 说 : 到这里,自然而然会想尝尝日本的威士忌和琴酒。 」

Akinori 在他的家乡札幌当调酒师时,与一甲威士 忌建立了良好关系,一甲威士忌是一个传奇品牌,其余 市蒸馏所于 1934 年由被誉为日本威士忌之父、已逝世 的竹鹤政孝所创立。Akinori 说,他们夫妇俩是因为喜 欢温泉和单板滑雪,于是在 2014 年搬到新雪谷。他们 开设商店,收藏来自酿酒厂不可多得的烈酒。Akinori 说, 直至今日,他仍是当地唯一与一甲威士忌密切合作的调 酒师。 「Toshiro」酒吧以创意调酒为特色,包括花式经典 系列,例如以丰富麦芽的一甲超珍稀陈酿调和威士忌 和一甲苹果酒调制而成的苹果威士忌 ;遵循古法运用 橡木桶陈酿的一甲威士忌 ;还有一款鸡尾酒名为烟熏 盘尼西林,以余市单一麦芽威士忌和余市泥煤风味单 一麦芽威士忌调制而成,戏剧化地呈现于烟雾迷漫的 玻璃容器中。 若对一甲威士忌的沿革及历史感兴趣,可以参观 他们的余市蒸馏所,该地区以特有水质闻名,气候又 与竹鹤学习威士忌制程的苏格兰高地相似。余市蒸馏 所于 1934 年开幕,游客可参加行程参观酿酒设施及一 座详细介绍竹鹤生平的博物馆。一甲威士忌的传统制 程,包括直接燃煤蒸馏等,依然沿用至今。另有商店 贩售各种一甲威士忌的产品,包括酿酒厂独家销售的 酒款。

“It is a bit hard to imagine incorporating potato into ramen,” admits Hiromi Sagara, co-owner of Niseko Ramen. She runs the wildly popular joint alongside her husband, chef Kazuhiro, who invented the eatery’s signature potatofoam variation. The chef wanted to “make something from a local specialty and welcome people to Niseko,” she says. Although Hiromi says you wouldn’t know it at first glance, the dish features a secret-recipe layer of piping-hot potato foam atop miso ramen – a sight that is, she notes, both “impressive and beautiful.” It’s proven to be a great warmer-upper with skiers and snowboarders in the winter months, but summer also sees admiring crowds demanding the local favorite.

N I S E KO R A M E N 新雪谷拉面

「新雪谷拉面店」的老板 Hiromi Sagara 不禁承 认: 「很难想像将马铃薯加入拉面。 」她和丈夫

Kazuhiro 主厨,一起经营这间广受欢迎的拉面 店。Kazuhiro 研 发 了 餐 厅 招 牌 ─ 马 铃 薯 泡 沫, 说是为了用当地特产来欢迎人们到访新雪谷。 即使 Hiromi 说乍看之下很难发现,但确实有一 层神秘而滚烫的马铃薯泡沫满布于味噌拉面上, 她形容看起来「既惊奇又美丽」 ,在冬季的数个 月里让滑雪和雪板爱好者暖胃又暖心,甚至在 夏天餐厅也是时常爆满,就为一尝这当地美味。 north to niseko

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位于四季新雪谷时尚新潮空间的「Temporada」 餐 厅, 是 由 土 生 土 长 的 荷 兰 人 Dennis van den

Brink 所经营,同时他也负责数间在新雪谷最受 欢迎的用餐场所。他开设的西班牙式酒吧在当地 以提倡「农场到餐桌」的理念而名声四起,主 打 以 北 海 道 食 材 烹 制 的 料 理, 适 合 全 家 共 享。 「Temporada」的菜单不断推陈出新,招牌菜包括 烤油甘鱼配酸豆和腌渍绿辣椒,以及用当地捕获 的鹿肉制成的炖鹿膝等。Dennis 认为,因为夏季 有最好吃的海鲜,游客应多在新雪谷较温暖的月 份到访。餐厅于傍晚开始营业,白日里的空间则 ,提供咖啡、 用作 Dennis 的「Green Farm Cafe」 日式和西式早餐、沙拉和三文治。餐厅内亦设有 烘豆设备,并贩售来自世界各产地的咖啡豆。

Dennis 的 艺 术 家 妻 子 Saori 开 创 自 有 品 牌 IKIYA,手工设计配饰,其中包括日本传统的水引 绳结手艺品。为了向顾客呈献独特的本地商品, 她还向邻近以稻米品种多样化闻名的兰越町采购 米粒,并以水引绳结装饰创造精致包装来贩售, 在「Green Farm Cafe」的菜单上也看得到。她说: 「它的口感和香味使其成为日本最好的米饭。 」

T E M P O R A D A A N D G R E E N FA R M C A F É Occupying a sleek space in the Shiki complex, Temporada is run by Dennis van den Brink, a native of the Netherlands who is responsible for some of Niseko’s most popular dining establishments. Known locally for advocating a “farm-to-fork” philosophy, his tapas-and-wine bar offers dishes made with Hokkaido-sourced ingredients best enjoyed family style. Temporada’s constantly changing menu includes signatures like grilled hamachi with capers and green-chili pickles and osso buco made with locally hunted venison. People, van den Brink believes, should take advantage of the warmer months in Niseko: “The best seafood is available in summer.” The restaurant, which is open in the evenings, by day yields its space to van den Brink’s Green Farm Cafe, a casual spot for grabbing coffee and Japanese or Western-style breakfasts, salads, and sandwiches. It also has an in-house coffee roastery and sells beans sourced from around the world. Under her IKIYA brand, van den Brink’s artist wife Saori creates handmade accessories featuring mizuhiki knots, an ancient Japanese craft. With the goal of bringing unique local products to the masses, she also sources the renowned rice grown by farmers in the nearby town of Rankoshi. It is sold at Green Farm Cafe in her exquisite packaging adorned with mizuhiki knots and is also offered on the menu at Temporada. “The flavor and fragrance of the rice make it among the best in Japan,” she says.

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Green Farm Cafe’s beef, mozzarella and tomato sandwich 「Green Farm Cafe」 的牛肉、马苏里拉奶 酪和番茄三文治


Temporada’s yellowtail wrapped in seaweed, salmon roe with cucumber, and purple radish 「Temporada」的黄尾鱼紫菜卷,鲑鱼籽伴黄瓜及紫萝卜


Tsubara Tsubara’s tsumire soup curry 「Tsubara Tsubara」的鱼丸汤咖喱


NISEKO TRAVEL

TSUBARA TSUBARA Originating in Sapporo, soup curry is a deliciously warming dish that has spread in popularity throughout the prefecture. The dish has a broth-like base rather than the thick sauce typically seen in Japanese curries. The result is flavors that are rich and intense without overshadowing the vegetables and meat. Tsubara Tsubara, named after a line in an old Japanese poem meaning “to relax and enjoy from your heart,” invented the tsumire Japanese-style meatball soup curry, a twist on usual meat-on-the-bone style. Although traditional soup curries are on the menu, along with a vegetarian version, owner Keiji Sakai says the tsumire offers the restaurant’s many foreign visitors something a bit more familiar. 汤咖喱起源自札幌,暖胃又美味,受到 全县人的爱戴。这道料理以汤为基底, 非日式咖喱中常见的浓酱底,呈现出浓 厚的风味,而不会盖过蔬菜和肉类的口 感。 「Tsubara Tsubara」的命名,是来自 日本古诗中的一段词,意为「放松纾心」 。 餐厅所研发的日式鱼丸汤咖喱,配菜有 别于常见的带骨肉。菜单上有传统汤咖 喱 以 及 素 食 咖 喱, 不 过 老 板 Keiji Sakai 坦言​​,反而许多外地游客最熟悉的就是 鱼丸汤咖喱。

Kagra’s whitebait with rice 「Kagra」的银鱼饭

G O O D C ATC H 理想之选

Niseko neighbors a trio of small fishing towns, Iwanai, Suttsu, and Kamoenai, that are within an hour’s drive. Some are well-known for particular types of fish, but since all three are on the same famed southeastern coastline of Hokkaido, it’s safe to say that all of their catches are of exceptional quality. Takezushi, located in Iwanai, earned a Bib Gourmand in the Hokkaido Michelin Guide 2017. This elegant spot, which features tatami-style dining rooms, has been open for four decades. Locally sourced seafood in its delicate sushi platter includes scallops, salmon roe, octopus, flounder, and squid from Iwanai and sea urchin from Kamoenai. Suttsu Oyster Village is a kaki-goya , or oyster shack, right by the ocean. A family-run business, it offers seafood cooked on a grill in front of the diners. Its oysters, as well as scallops, conch shells, and Sakhalin surf clams, all come from Suttsu, of course. All-you-can-eat packages are available. For those looking for convenience, especially in the winter months when long-distance driving might prove difficult, there is plenty of fresh seafood from local fishermen that is easily available near Niseko. Kagra, a restaurant that is especially popular with local Japanese, sources sea urchin, scallops, yellowtail, and whitebait from Suttsu. Sashimi bowls and sushi rolls are just some of the favorites found on the menu. And Yan Shu Ten in Niseko Village is a casual dining spot that sources oysters from Suttsu and flounder from Iwanai.

新雪谷与邻近三个小渔镇 ─ 岩内 町、寿都町和神惠内村的距离皆不 到一小时车程。有些以特定的鱼类 而知名,但由于这三座小镇都同样 位在北海道著名的东南海岸线上, 因此可以确信捕捞的所有渔获都是 上好品质。 「Takezushi」 餐 厅 位 于 岩 内 町,在 2017 年《北海道米其林指 南》中获得了必比登推介。以榻榻 米为隔间设计的雅致餐厅已经营了 四十年,精致寿司拼盘呈现的都是 当地捕获的海鲜,包括扇贝、鲑鱼 籽、章鱼、比目鱼、岩内町的鱿鱼 和来自神惠内村的海胆。 寿 都 町 的「Suttsu Oyster Village」餐厅紧邻海边,是一间家 族经营的牡蛎吧,海鲜一字排开于 客人面前新鲜现烤,牡蛎、扇贝、 海螺和北寄贝自然都来自寿都町, 店内亦提供放题的选择。 在 冬 天 长 途 驾 驶 备 感 辛 苦, 对于想寻求便利的游客,在新雪谷 附近便可轻松地自当地渔民那儿购 买丰盛的新鲜海产。 「Kagra」是一 家特别受当地日本居民喜爱的餐 厅,专门从寿都町采买海胆、扇贝、 黄尾鱼和小银鱼,人气料理如生鱼 片丼饭和寿司卷等,各式菜式应有 尽有。另一家新雪谷村的休闲餐厅 ,则选用寿都町的 「Yan Shu Ten」 牡蛎和岩内町的比目鱼。

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PRESENTED BY WYNN

O L D A LTA R P I C K L E S 老坛泡菜

Sichuan Moon’s culinary adventure begins with a selection of “altar pickles” made from a variety of delicious ingredients that change with the seasons. Pickles play an important role in the history of Sichuan cuisine: home cooks take pride in their artisanal preserves, and restaurants offer diners a dazzling selection to complement their main dishes. To uphold these traditions and introduce diners to the diversity of ingredients and flavors, Sichuan Moon has invited a master from the province to oversee its pickle production. Each variety is distinct in its pungency: some have a sour tang, others zing with the heat of chili, stimulating the palate and offering a hint of the gustatory journey to come. “We want you to realize you’re in Sichuan straightaway,” smiles Executive Chef Zor Tan.

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妙纳百川

IMAGINATION AND WONDER At Sichuan Moon, André Chiang brings his prodigiously original touch to a classic Chinese cuisine.

「川江月」厨艺之旅的序章是一系列以时令食材腌制而成的「老 坛泡菜」 。泡菜在四川菜系的地位举足轻重,四川家常厨师以手 工泡菜而自豪,当地的餐厅也会提供丰富多样的泡菜料理。为了 保有传统,并向宾客介绍泡菜各式各样的原材料和风味, 「川江月」 特意邀请一位四川泡菜大师亲自掌管泡菜生产。每款泡菜皆有其 独特风味 :有些带酸,有些带辣,提示接下来将会为宾客带来更 多味蕾上的刺激。行政总厨陈茳誔说 : 「我们希望宾客感觉自己 身在四川。 」 NORTH TO NISEKO | TK |

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PRESENTED BY WYNN

André Chiang, Culinary Director of Sichuan Moon 川江月创意厨艺总监江振诚

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吧。 」江振诚笑着说 : 「这不是典型的烹饪手法,我 们所选择的材料都是为了创造『体验』 ,让宾客在 用餐后对川菜抱有截然不同的想法。 」虽然江振诚 的料理讲求正宗口味,但从食材的组合以至摆盘, 均尽显他优雅、简洁、有趣的鲜明风格。 提及其位于新加坡名声显赫的餐饮据点,江振 诚说 : 「自从『Restaurant André』歇业后,相比厨 师的身份,我觉得自己更像餐厅的策划总监。从宾 客进门直至离开的那一刻,他们整场的用餐体验全 由我主导。我名下共有八家餐庁,各异其趣,但对 美味的诠释始终一致,探究每道料理背后的基因、 风味特征与搭配组合。 」 身为永利皇宫「川江月」的创意厨艺总监,江 振诚设计了一套与众不同的概念,从餐厅蜿蜒曲折 的空间开始,宾客被圆形座位围绕,墙壁略呈弧形, 宽敞的餐厅中唯一有角度的是大气耀眼的品茗吧 台,两位来自四川省的侍茶师正熟巧地沏制各式稀 有上乘的珍茗。 江振诚精心设计的赏味菜单,将这场感官体验

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the combinations.” As culinary director of Sichuan Moon at Wynn Palace, Chiang curates a remarkable concept that begins with the restaurant’s stunningly sinuous space. Diners are embraced by circular seats, walls are gently rounded, and the only angles in the generously proportioned dining room are found in the striking tea bar, an altar-like area where two tea sommeliers from Sichuan Province expertly prepare rare and fine-quality brews. The sensual adventure culminates in Chiang’s meticulously

在「川江月」 ,江振诚为经典中式料理注入鲜 明原创特色。 「准备来发掘一些独具巧思的新花样

DAVID HARTUNG (1 + PRECEDING PAGE ),

“PREPARE TO DISCOVER something really unique,” says André Chiang. “This is not typical cooking. We choose the elements to create an experience , so that diners walk out with a new perspective on Sichuanese food.” While his dishes are based on authentic flavors, their composition and presentation bear Chiang’s unmistakably elegant, spare, and playful hallmark. “Since Restaurant André closed,” says Chiang of his legendary Singapore venue, “I see myself as more of a restaurant curator than a chef. You direct the whole concept, from the moment guests come in to the moment they leave. My group now has eight restaurants and none are the same. But our understanding of tastiness is always the same. We search for the DNA of each cuisine, the flavor profiles,


S I G N AT U R E P I PA C H Á 1987 NIEPOORT PORT CASK

带向高潮。十多道料理带领宾客探索中国以

川江枇杷茶

服务人员悉心地展现烹饪团队一系列迷人的

This unusual and delicious tea is the result of a unique collaboration between China and Portugal to create a distinctive variety for Macau, reflecting the rich and varied history of the territory. Organic oolong tea is grown in the scenic Huangshan mountain range in China’s Anhui province, a beautiful region portrayed in works of art over the centuries. The harvested leaves are shipped to the famous Portuguese town of Porto, where they are aged in special Niepoort Colheita 1987 port wine casks. This unique process imbues the tea with subtle notes from the wine that add layers of complexity to the final brew. The result is an extraordinary “alcoholic tea” that can only be found at Sichuan Moon. 这种特别的美茗是中国和葡国元素交织的成果,两国在历史上的 深刻连结为澳门创造出独特品种。 有机乌龙茶生长在中国安徽省风景秀丽的黄山山脉中,数世纪 以来的艺术品皆描绘出这片美丽境地。收成的茶叶被运往著名的

百菜百味闻名的四川。用餐历时约三个小时, 美味菜式和令人惊艳的创意。 「 川 江 月 」 的 厨 房 由 前「Restaurant André」主厨陈茳誔领军。行政总厨陈茳誔的 卓越才华结合了精准度和想像力,完美契合 江振诚的新意念。陈总厨说 : 「厨师团队成员 皆来自四川,他们将自身对正宗川味的理解 带来餐厅。四川省的湿暖气候为当地生长的 农产品和香料注入了味道的深度及辣度。 」 江振诚将经典川菜的繁复、香气和滋味 划分为多种味型,并呈现于菜单中。除了新 鲜辣椒、干辣椒和腌辣椒所具有的经典辣味, 和经常与川菜并提的花椒麻味之外,料理中 还蕴藏了糖醋味,甜香味,五香味及鱼香味等。 他说 : 「我们做了很多研究,探究如何别出心 裁地呈现各种味型,而不只是把食材染上辣 椒、香菜和生姜的味道。 」

葡国波尔图小镇,并以特殊的 1987 砵酒橡木桶陈酿,此独特制程

小册子形式的菜单中有精美手绘的四川

使茶叶中含有葡萄酒的微妙香气,在冲泡时更显丰富层次,此与

食材和玩味十足的菜名,如「柴烧怪味龙凤

众不同的「酒茶」只在「川江月」才有。 north to niseko

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饼」 。这就是江振诚的特色,提供有关菜式的线索来 吊宾客胃口,激发他们参与充满期待、创意和惊奇 的体验。江振诚说起他的神秘菜单 : 「总该有些留白 等待宾客去探索,我们希望大家以开放的心态来用 餐,所以我们只事先提示食材组合。我们发现无论 我们如何烹调和呈现,宾客都会欢欣接受并尽情享 用。 」 每道餐点都由服务人员配上该菜式的主导食 材,并放在餐桌装饰,打造成一场视觉飨宴-像是 一只巨大的虎爪菌,扑鼻的香气提醒宾客餐点即将 上桌。有些餐点需要宾客的参与,当某道餐点上桌 时,会邀请宾客从稻米上摘下一些轻烤米粒,撒在 无装饰的米食甜点上,这为宾客带来了纯粹的喜悦。 如此精致的呈现方式和趣味互动贯穿了整个餐单。 江振诚说 : 「 『四川菜』一直被视为家常或价廉 的料理,不像粤菜那样受到尊敬,我过去不禁好奇 个中缘由。 」他兴致勃勃地研究了被视为平凡料理的 四川名菜,并以他的高级厨艺重新诠释。他说 : 「酸 辣汤被认为是简朴的料理,里面没有鲍鱼或燕窝, 但我们的呈现方式使它可以像是蕴藏昂贵食材的汤 品一样精致。 」 在「川江月」 ,餐酒搭配是个创新且有趣的尝试。 饮品可选择热或冷, 有或无酒精,大多都是「川江月」 独有,也并非所有都是用葡萄酿造。 江振诚称,餐酒搭配并不单只与餐点互补即可。 在他而言,餐酒搭配是要在餐点与饮品间创造出整 体和谐与色、香、味之间的平衡。 他说 : 「例如,我们在菜单上有卤猪肉,肉质 扎实,油腻且没有太多的余味,因此我们要选择一 款味道强烈的饮品来成全这种『味道』 ,一切关于平 衡。我告诉侍酒师,我们应该将饮料当作搭配料理 的酱汁,当宾客想要平衡餐点的味道时,就啜一口 饮料。 」 在「川江月」选择餐酒搭配的宾客,或许都喜 欢江振诚原创的麻油鸡尾酒。设计概念是为了在辛 辣泡菜带来味觉刺激后缓和味蕾。另一款更稀有的 是青岛原浆啤酒,这是一种未经高温消毒、保质期 仅七日的啤酒,它的口感绵密,还能突显蟹脚中的 大蒜味。 葡萄酒行家都喜欢这款稀有的「贺兰晴雪加贝 兰小脚丫黑皮诺」 ,皆因其独特香气可提升担担面的 麻辣滋味,这一组特别的餐酒搭配反映了「川江月」 料理中的中式根源。此外,餐厅仍有其他国际化的 DAVID HARTUNG (2)

designed degustation menu of more than ten courses that take guests on a culinary exploration throughout Sichuan, the Chinese region famed for diversified flavors. The experience can last more than three hours, as a succession of enchantingly delicious and surprising creations from the culinary team is unveiled with dramatic flourishes by the attentive front-of-house staff. Sichuan Moon’s kitchen is led by Executive Chef Zor Tan, previously executive chef of Restaurant André. Tan’s exceptional talents combine precision and imagination, a perfect fit for Chiang’s new project. “My brigade,” says Tan, “is made up of chefs from Sichuan who bring their understanding of the authentic tastes of the region to our kitchen. The province’s wet and warm climate gives depth and pungency to the produce and spices that grow there.” Chiang categorizes the complex, fragrant, and zesty flavors of classic Sichuan cooking into a number of distinct profiles, showcasing many of them in his menu. Alongside the classic heat of fresh, dried, and pickled chilies and the tingling, numbing quality of potent Sichuan peppercorns so often associated with the region’s cuisine, his dishes reveal sweet-and-sour flavor, sweet-and-aromatic flavor, five-spices flavor, and fish flavor, among others. “We did a lot of research,” he says. “We’re not just putting ingredients together with a lot of chili, coriander, and ginger.” Menus in the form of small books feature beautifully handpainted illustrations of typical Sichuan ingredients and intriguing dish names like “wood roasted meat in unusual flavor.” This is classic Chiang, teasing diners with clues about dishes to come and at the same time encouraging them to participate in the creation of an experience full of anticipation, imagination, and wonder. “A diner should always have some blanks to fill in,” says Chiang of his enigmatic menu. “We want people to approach the meal with an open mind, so we just hint at the ingredient combination. We find that diners accept and enjoy it, regardless of how it is cooked or presented.” Each course is accompanied by a table decoration of ingredients that the waitstaff place as a visual – and, in the case of a giant tiger’s paw mushroom, fragrant – reminder of the flavors in the dish about to be served. Some courses require a little participation from guests as well. At one point, they are instructed to pluck some lightly roasted rice grains from a delicate stalk and scatter them over an unembellished dessert that contains rice as its main ingredient, inspiring diners with a sense of pure joy. “Sichuan food,” says Chiang, “has always been treated as a family-style or cheaper cuisine, not as respected as Cantonese, and I was

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P E P P E R CO R N F L AV O R E D D U C K F O I E G R A S A N D M U S H R O O M S R OYA L E 椒麻野菌鸭肝冻

Chiang’s famous “Memory” dish from Restaurant André reappears in a Sichuan incarnation. Foie gras is blended with eggs and cream and steamed to create a velvety custard that is served with fragrant coulis and light jelly. This was the first dish Chiang created without external influence when he was a young chef in France in 1997. After Restaurant André closed, he began fielding questions from fans asking where they could eat it again. “When we were preparing Sichuan Moon’s menu,” he says, “I decided to include it, using a Sichuan approach. I replaced the truffle with tiger paw mushroom for the coulis – it has a very umami flavor.” The finishing touch of delicate jelly is perfumed with numbing green Sichuan peppercorns.

江 振 诚 在「Restaurant André」 的 名 菜 「忆」 以四川风味重新演绎。将鸭肝、 鸡蛋和奶油搅拌混合后蒸熟,制成绒 丝般的奶油冻,搭配芳香的菌酱和清 新的果冻。 这是江振诚在 1997 年于法国担任 厨师时首次独当一面所设计的菜式, 「Restaurant André」歇业后,他总被 捧场客问及何处可以再品尝该道名菜。 他说 : 「在设计『川江月』的菜单时, 我决定列入这道料理并用四川手法重 新诠释,以带有特殊鲜味的虎掌菌取 代松露。 」画龙点睛的细致椒麻冻满溢 着麻辣青花椒香。

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asking why.” He took pleasure in studying the flavors of famous Sichuan dishes that are often considered humble and recreating them in accordance with his trademark haute-cuisine style. “Hot and sour soup is considered a rather lowly dish,” he says. “It doesn’t have abalone or bird’s nest in it, but the way we serve it shows that it can be just as refined as a soup with luxury ingredients.” At Sichuan Moon, drink pairing is an imaginative and playful endeavor. Selections may be hot or cold, with or without alcohol; many cannot be found elsewhere, and not all are made from grapes. According to Chiang, food and drink pairing is not a simple, straightforward matter of complementing dishes. He believes it is the act of “perfecting a structure” by creating an equilibrium of body, taste, and aroma between drink and dish. “For example,” he says, “let’s say we have braised pork on the menu, a dish with real body. It’s oily and doesn’t have too much of an aftertaste, so we’d choose a drink that makes up the “taste” part, something with a more intense flavor. It’s about balance. I tell our sommeliers that we should treat the drink as the dish’s sauce, and when diners want to balance the dish, they can take a sip of the drink.” Guests at Sichuan Moon who choose the drink pairing may enjoy Chiang’s original cocktail made with sesame oil. It’s designed to calm the palate after stimulation by an array of piquant pickles. Another more unusual drink offering is Tsingtao Original 13˚, an unpasteurized beer with a shelf life of only seven days. This creamy brew amplifies the savory deep-fried garlic notes of a delicious crab leg.

S W E E T CO R N O N A B E D O F S P O N G E C A K E 玉米粑粑

酒 品, 如 泰 廷 爵 白 中 白 香 槟 或 产 量 极 少 的 Tattinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2007, 都 因 其稀有性、高品质,以及与美食的兼容性而雀屏中选。 「川江月」是江振城第二个以四川美食为题的餐 饮据点。同时,他还负责成都的「廊桥」餐厅,该店 位于市内最出名的地标、历史悠久且壮观的安顺廊桥 上。他说 : 「我知道这里会供应川菜,但我觉得澳门该 有点不一样的元素。 」回顾川菜的历史后,江大师决定 要呈现整个菜系,包括四川的街头小食、泡菜、凉菜 和开胃菜。 「这里的料理和您在普通川菜馆看到的截然 不同。我们从烹调手法著手,从龙眼木炭、氮气到低 温慢煮都有。我们只是以正确的方式诠释食材最佳的 味道。 」 在「川江月」用餐是一段惊喜的旅程-意想不到 的秘密餐点、天马行空的饮品搭配,以及剧场般的互 动体验,让宾客感觉自己是一场艺术表演的一分子。 厨师团队、服务人员和用餐的客人一同投入,开展一 系列充满戏剧性、异想天开和欢欣雀跃的交流。知识 渊博的服务员侃侃而谈,介绍每道菜式背后的故事。 宾客就如上历史课一般,透过一道道华美的餐点,了 解何谓正宗四川风味。江大师补充 : 「我们并不是只把 料理端出来给宾客,而是要带他们展开一段激动人心 之旅。 」

To give his guests a faithful overview of Sichuan cuisine, Chiang likes to include traditional street snacks on the menu. This sweet and comforting corn dish celebrates those colorful traditions and demonstrates that some Sichuan dishes contain no chilies or peppercorns. Using a Taiwanese white corn renowned for its sweetness and a Japanese yellow corn with aromatic qualities, the chef assembles this delicate dish from three different manifestations. A light corn mousse is teamed with the epidermis of the kernels, which are gently steamed and removed in one piece from the cob. The combination is then placed on a slice of corn sponge cake. Making use of the whole vegetable is a delicious way to minimize food waste. 为了让宾客全面地了解川菜,江振诚喜欢在菜单上 加入传统的街头小吃。这道鲜甜且抚慰人心的玉米 粑粑颂赞着多彩多姿的传统,也证明了不含辣椒或 花椒的川菜也能引人入胜。

道精致美馔。 由慢蒸的玉米棒上整片取下玉米粒皮, 搭配轻盈的玉米慕斯,再将此组合摆饰于玉米海绵 蛋糕上。完整地利用蔬菜是减少食物浪费的最佳方 式。

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使用以甜味而闻名的台湾白玉米和独具香气 的日本黄玉米,总厨以三种不同的层次口感组成这


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M A S T E R P I EC E M A - P O TO F U 经典麻婆豆腐

Four types of handmade tofu are arranged in a checkerboard effect, adding visual and textural diversity to this most famous of home-style Sichuan dish. Black tofu tinted with squid ink and black beans, hard tofu, Japanese egg tofu, and soft tofu are served in a Taiwanese bowl cover handcrafted from a thousand bay leaves. It both insulates and adds a touch of fragrance to the presentation. The tofu squares, placed on an aromatic pool of Japanese wagyu beef sauce accented with the citrusy notes of dried Sichuan peppercorns, are garnished with fresh French chives at the table. The unique texture of each bite and the perfect freshness of the tofu contrast beautifully with the numbing, spicy qualities of the sauce.

以棋盘格呈现四种手工豆腐,为最知 名的家常四川料理增添了视觉与质感 上的变化。用墨鱼汁及黑豆渍的黑豆 腐、 老 豆 腐、 日 本 蛋 豆 腐 和 嫩 豆 腐, 盛于以上千片月桂叶手工编织的台湾 「千桂碗」 ,彼此毫不违合,更增香气。 豆腐块放在香气四溢的日本和牛 酱池中,带有四川干花椒的柑橘味, 并点缀着新鲜法国小茴香,而豆腐每 一口的独特口感和新鲜度都与酱汁的 椒麻辛辣形成鲜明对比。 NORTH TO NISEKO | TK |

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RICE IS GOLD 稻米是金

Designed to celebrate the most humble of staples, this elegant rice course is an imaginative collection of delicious components. A truly sophisticated taste experience is created by the interplay of myriad textures: airy rice-based espuma, velvety-sweet almond cream and soft almond tofu, a thin layer of crunchy French meringue, and silky rice ice cream. The dessert is decorated with a glamorous streak of gold leaf in the kitchen, and, as a final touch, diners are asked to pick crispy roasted rice grains from a stalk and scatter them over the surface. Rolling across the gold, they create a visual juxtaposition of simplicity and grandeur befitting this remarkable dish.

这道典雅的米甜品是个富有创意的美味组 合,为了宣扬最平凡无奇的主食,无数层 次的交叠创造出真正细致的味觉体验 :蓬 松的玄米泡沬慕斯、丝绒般的甜杏仁奶油 和柔软的杏仁豆腐、薄脆的法式蛋白酥皮 和丝滑的玄米冰淇淋。 上桌时可见一片迷人的金箔叶装饰 在甜点上,最后的巧妙之处在于邀请宾客 从茎梗上摘下酥脆的烤米粒并撒在甜点表 面,米粒滚动于金箔之上,创造出兼容简 约与华丽的视觉美感,正合这道甜点的创 作概念。


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Wine connoisseurs will appreciate a scarce Jiabeilan Baby Feet Pinot Noir 2015, whose exceptional perfume can soar above the deliciously challenging fire and smoke of Chiang’s punchy dan dan noodle dish. While these particular pairing choices reflect the Chinese roots of Sichuan Moon’s food, other more global offerings, like Tattinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2007 or the verysmall-production Telmo Rodriguez Bodega Lanzaga El Velado 2015, are chosen for their rarity, quality, and compatibility with dishes. Sichuan Moon is the second dining destination in Chiang’s collection of restaurants that is Sichuan-inspired; he also oversees The Bridge in Chengdu, built on the city’s most famous landmark, the historic Anshun Bridge. “I knew that our restaurant here in Macau would be Sichuan straightaway,” he says. “I felt the city needed something different.” Looking at Sichuan cuisine holistically, Chiang decided to include street snacks, pickles, cold dishes, and appetizers. “These dishes are very different from what you see in a regular Sichuan restaurant. When it comes to techniques, we use everything from longan-wood charcoal to nitrogen to sous vide. We simply find the ideal methods to bring out the best in our ingredients.” To dine at Sichuan Moon is to enjoy an evening seasoned with surprises: secret courses, imaginative drink pairings, theatrical flourishes. Such is the magic and artistry of dinner service that diners may feel they’re participating in a unique piece of performance art. Kitchen, front-of-house, and guests are united in dramatic, whimsical, and delightful interplay. Articulate and knowledgeable waitstaff captivate guests with the story behind each exquisitely plated dish. The astonishingly original food delivers a subtle history lesson as each course reveals the authentic taste of Sichuan. “At the end of the day,” says Chiang, “you’re not just presenting guests with what you’ve cooked – it’s an exciting exchange.”

“ Y U X I A N G ” EG G P L A N T 腊八豆豉鱼香茄

“Fish fragrant eggplant” is another popular and comforting home-style Sichuan dish on the menu. While “fish fragrance,” or yu xiang, is one of the most famous of the traditional Sichuan flavor profiles, there is actually no fish in the original recipe. The name derives from the traditional mixture of garlic, ginger, onion, vinegar, salt, sugar, and preserved chili that is often used as a sauce for fish. Sichuan Moon’s recipe does in fact include seafood, a superior Chinese caviar that is placed on top with the yu xiang sauce. Wonderful fermented soy bean adds an extra layer of umami. The organic aubergine from Japan is grilled over a low flame, then peeled and steamed to a tender texture and mixed with the yu xiang sauce and caviar. The aromatic sauce at no point overpowers the delicate purity of the dish, allowing the aubergine to take center stage. 「鱼香茄子」是另一道家常川菜。 「鱼香」在川菜味型中相当著名,虽名「鱼香」 ,但在 食谱中并没有以鱼类烹调。菜名其实来自它的酱汁,通常混有大蒜、生姜、洋葱、醋、 盐、糖和腌辣椒,且经常用于鱼类料理。 事实上,川江月确实在这道料理中使用了海鲜─顶级的中国鱼子酱,配搭鱼香酱。 腊八豆为菜式添加了微妙的鲜香,日本有机茄子经低温慢烤,去皮并蒸至质地柔软, 与鱼香茄子酱和鱼子酱相结合,香浓的「鱼香」风味反而更能衬托出茄子的细致纯粹。 north to niseko

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THE POSSIBILITIES

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FEATURE

百变奇「椒」

OF PEPPERS The House of Krug invites Hong Kong Krug Ambassade Chefs to pair Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé with gastronomy’s most versatile vegetable.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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“IT’S QUITE FASCINATING, the world of peppers,” says

Umberto Bombana, scrolling through endless images of exoticlooking specimens. The acclaimed chef is co-owner of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana, and one of six Krug Ambassade Chefs in Hong Kong. As a devoted connoisseur of Krug Champagne, he jumped at the chance to participate in the house’s annual culinary exploration that pairs Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé with a single featured ingredient, in this case, peppers. They are, says Bombana, “unique for their countless sizes, shapes, colors, textures, flavors, and heat levels.” With an estimated fifty thousand varieties, peppers can range from sweet and mild to eye-wateringly hot, from tender-skinned and thin-walled to crunchy and meaty. This protean nature is what makes the humble ingredient such an appropriate choice for Krug Ambassade Chefs, who have sussed out the nuances of numberless strains to create perfect pairings with Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé. In the same meticulous way, Eric Lebel, the house’s longtime cellar master, honors Krug’s legendary savoir faire in winemaking, the philosophy of its founder, Joseph Krug. Lebel has perfected the art of individually vinifying the harvest from each plot so as to fully express its character as a single wine, as a single ingredient in orchestrating the blending of Krug Champagnes. Recently, Hong Kong’s six Krug Ambassades gathered to share notes on their Krug x Pepper creations. For many, it’s their first reunion since their trip to Morocco for this year’s Global Krug Ambassades Voyage. They laugh and reminisce over memorable moments: Uwe Opocensky’s conspicuous delight in the caviar on the flight, Mori Tomoaki’s struggle to stay warm in the desert night, Vicky Cheng’s cold morning shower, and Robin Zavou’s control over his fear of heights in a hot air balloon. Guillaume Galliot shares highlights of a jaunt to Mexico with Lebel and twelve other Krug Ambassades from around the world to discover the origin of peppers. No meeting of Krug Ambassade Chefs would be complete without toasting with a glass of the illustrious Champagne. Galliot, recently returned from a visit to the House of Krug in Reims, impresses everyone by correctly identifying, in a single sip, the Krug Rosé 21ème Édition – unforgettable, indeed!

「 辣 椒 的 世 界 太 引 人 入 胜 了!」Umberto

Bombana 一面翻阅散发出浓浓异域风情、看似 永无止尽的料理图片,一面说着。这位名闻遐 迩 的 厨 师 身 兼「81⁄2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana」 餐厅老板,亦是香港六位 Krug 大使之一。作为 Krug 香槟的忠实鉴赏家,他当然不能错过 Krug 每年一度选用单一主题食材搭配 Krug Grande

Cuvée 与 Krug Rosé 香槟的厨艺挑战。本年度 的主题食材是辣椒。他表示,辣椒「有各式各 样的大小、形状、颜色、口感、味道、辣度, 所以才如此与众不同。 」 辣椒约有五万个品种,味道从香甜到温厚, 再到让人眼泪直流的劲辣 ;口感从嫩皮、薄皮, 到咬起来清脆而肉感饱实。辣椒千变万化的本 质让身任 Krug 大使的一众名厨各显神通,以匠 心巧思设计出最适合搭配 Krug Grande Cuvée 与 Krug Rosé 的 美 馔。 与 Krug 香 槟 的 创 始 人

Joseph Krug 传奇的酿酒哲学遥相呼应,每款辣 椒皆与每座葡萄园的收成一样,被视为独一无 二的原料。Krug 酒庄资深酿酒师 Eric Lebel 的 酿制技艺已臻至完美境界,作品均充分展现出 每座葡萄园的特性。 不久前,六位香港 Krug 大使齐聚一堂, 欢庆 Krug x Pepper 美馔佐佳酿系列正式登场。 这是继今年 Krug 大使环球之旅在摩洛哥之后 的初次聚首。回忆起那趟旅行,他们脸上满是 笑 意 :Uwe Opocensky 大 力 赞 扬 飞 机 上 的 鱼 子 酱 ;Mori Tomoaki 在 沙 漠 的 夜 晚 总 是 觉 得 身子暖不起来 ;Vicky Cheng 喜欢早上洗冷水 澡 ;Robin Zavou 乘坐热气球时竭力克服他的 惧高症。随后 Guillaume Galliot 与大家分享他 与 Eric 及十二位来自世界各地的 Krug 大使于 墨西哥短期游览期间,追寻辣椒产地的点点滴 滴。 当然,Krug 大使的聚会若少了以著名香槟 举杯庆贺就不算完整。Guillaume 最近在放假期 间走访法国兰斯的 Krug 酒庄。他只啜一小口, 便精准辨认出 Krug Rosé 21ème Édition,令在 场人士啧啧称奇,留下无比深刻的印象!

Clockwise from top left, Guillaume Galliot, Uwe Opocensky, Mori Tomoaki, Umberto Bombana, Robin Zavou, and Vicky Cheng

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U M B E RTO B O M B A N A

8 ½ OT TO E M E Z ZO B O M B A N A

Are peppers commonly used in Italian cuisine? If you go to any vegetable shop in Italy at this time of the year, I guarantee that you’ll find peppers. Everybody grows them – in the family garden, the first things you plant for the summer are peppers, tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, and basil. They’re an important part of our diet.

Do you like spicy peppers? I love spicy foods, but not all the time – it depends on my mood. Sometimes I want the spice even in hot weather. I don’t know what that need inside is that drives me to want spicy food, but it’s there.

In the range from soloist to full orchestra, what is your Krug x Pepper dish? We use different peppers and a lot of different ingredients, including rice, stock, anchovy, parmesan, onion, garlic, olive oil, and butter, so the dish must be an orchestra. Like the instruments, each ingredient must have its own precision and focus, but then they meld together to create a beautiful symphony. Actually, it’s like Krug’s approach, where each vineyard plot is treated as a single ingredient that is selectively blended into Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé.

What do you remember of your first sip of Krug? I started drinking Krug when I was working in a Michelin-star restaurant in Italy. I remember the intensity, the deepness and complexity, and the minerality. It’s a very special Champagne, and it became my favorite from that moment.

If you were a pepper, which would you be, spicy or mild? Peperoncino cappello del vescovo – the bishop’s crown. Look at its beautiful shape! That’s the pepper I am – it’s not too spicy, it’s milder and sweeter.

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辣椒在意式料理中常见吗? 每年这个时节你去意大利任何一家蔬果店, 我保证一定会有辣椒。辣椒几乎人人都种。 每到夏天,自家菜园的第一批作物一定是辣 椒、蕃茄、栉瓜、茄子、罗勒,这些是我们 饮食中很重要的食材。

你喜欢辣的辣椒吗? 我爱吃辣,但也不是随时都喜欢,要看心情, 有时候就连天气很热时我也想吃点辣的。我 也不知道体内是什么驱使我想吃辣,但这欲 望就是存在。

用独奏到交响乐来比喻,你觉得你的 Krug x Pepper 料理是哪一种? 我们使用了不同辣椒和众多食材,包括米、

PEPPER PAIRING Pimiento, red cherry, friggitello, cruschi, Senise

高汤、鯷鱼、帕尔玛奶酪、洋葱、大蒜、橄 榄油、黄油,所以这道菜肯定是首交响乐。 就跟乐器一样,每一种食材都有自己的精准 度与焦点,但它们彼此融合,演奏出美丽的 交响乐。其实就像 Krug 的作法,把每一座 葡萄园视为一种食材,经过挑选后再混调成

Krug Grande Cuvée 和 Krug Rosé。

还记得自己喝第一口 Krug 的感受吗?

This dish showcases different forms and flavors that peppers can present. We add a reduction of the juice of red sweet pepper to the risotto. On top is a quenelle of peperonata , a traditional Italian stew of peppers, onion, and garlic. Tiny slivers of friggitello and red cherry peppers give it a spicy touch on top, and we sprinkle a dash each of powdered cruschi and Senise for their sweet aromas. 这道料理能尽情展现出辣椒的各种形式与味道。我们在烩饭里加入红甜椒浓缩

我在意大利一家米其林星级餐厅工作时初尝

汁,摆在上面的是肉丸形状的意大利传统炖菜番茄炖三色甜椒,内含甜椒、洋

Krug,我还记得它的浓烈、深度、繁复与矿

葱和大蒜。些许希腊金椒和樱桃辣椒置于其上,增添少许辣味,然后再撒上少

物味。那款香槟非常特别,从那一刻起就成

许意大利炸干辣椒粉与珊尼斯辣椒粉带出鲜甜香气。

了我的最爱。

WINE PAIRING

如果你是一种辣椒,你要当辣的还是温和 的? 主教皇冠辣椒。你看它形状多美!我要当这 种辣椒,不会太辣,味道温和有点甜。

Krug Grande Cuvée 167ème Édition Krug Grande Cuvée lends itself to a wealth of culinary combinations and pairs with nearly anything, from the simplest dishes to the most complex and spicy. I think the acidity and minerality of the wine go very well with the aromatic flavors in this dish. Krug Grande Cuvée 非常百搭,几乎可以搭配所有料理,包括简朴、繁复、辛 辣的菜式都可以。我认为这款酒的酸度与矿物味非常适合搭配菜式的芳香气味。

MUSIC PAIRING

Night Music of the Streets of Madrid , op. 30, no. 6 (G. 324), by Luigi Boccherini Just as the dish is a tribute to a refreshing summer vegetable, this piece is a lively and elegant recollection of the “music” of gaiety on the streets of Madrid on a beautiful summer’s evening. It was originally composed for a quintet of two violins, two cellos, and a viola, which matches up perfectly with the five peppers in the dish. 如同这道料理向清新的夏日蔬菜致敬,这首曲子轻快而悠扬,让人联想到美丽 夏夜马德里街道上欢快的「乐音」 。这首曲子原本就是两把小提琴、 两把中提琴、 一把大提琴的五重奏,与料理的五种辣椒可谓异曲同工。

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Sweet pepper risotto with anchovy 甜椒鯷鱼意式烩饭


PRESENTED BY KRUG

MORI TOMOAKI D A I G O BY M O R I TO M O A K I

Did you grow up eating peppers? In Japan, green bell pepper is known as the vegetable most hated by children. I grew up in Hong Kong, and I didn’t like it either. But later when I was in Shanghai, I really enjoyed Shanghainesestyle hui guo rou (twice-cooked pork) with green and red peppers, which isn’t too spicy, and now I love peppers. When you’re cooking a Chinese dish, it’s an important flavor, like garlic and ginger.

你从小就吃辣椒吗? 在日本,青椒是最多小孩讨厌的蔬菜。我在香港 长大,小时候也不喜欢青椒,但后来我到过上海, 很喜欢吃上海的回锅肉炒青椒和红椒,不会太 辣,现在我就爱上辣椒了。煮中菜时,辣椒是 很重要的佐料,重要性与大蒜和姜不相上下。

辣椒在日式料理中常见吗? Are peppers commonly used in Japanese cuisine?

有些日式餐厅会使用辣椒,例如七味粉和日本

Some Japanese restaurants use peppers like the togarashi and shishito, but never sushi restaurants. If the pepper is too spicy or strong, it overpowers the fish. So when I ordered eighty togarashi peppers – twenty for the sauce and sixty for the photo shoot – my supplier was so surprised. “What? Are you sure?”

甜椒(狮子唐辛子) ,但寿司餐厅从来不用。如

If your dish were an orchestra, what instrument would your pepper play?

如果把你的料理比拟为交响乐,你的辣椒是哪一 种乐器?

I think the wagyu is the chorus singing the melody and the pepper is in the background providing the harmony. Together, they become something very special.

我觉得和牛是唱主旋律的合唱团,辣椒则隐身

Do you have a favorite memory of drinking Krug? In Morocco with the other Krug Ambassade Chefs, it was unforgettable. We had Krug Grande Cuvée 160ème Édition in jeroboams. I liked it so much that I got one for myself when I returned to Hong Kong. I have it in my fridge, waiting for the right moment.

If you were a pepper, would you be spicy or mild? I’ve used sweet pepper in my dish, but I think I’d be spicy – just enough to be interesting, so you’d always want more.

果辣椒太辣或味道太强烈,就会盖过鱼的风味。 所以我跟供应商订购八十个万愿寺甜辣椒,打 算用其中二十个做成酱,六十个用来拍照。当 时厂商非常惊讶地问道 : 「真的吗?你确定?」

在背景中赋予乐音整体和谐。正因如此辣椒才 这么特别。

你喝 Krug 有什么特别喜爱的回忆吗? 难忘的是在摩洛哥与其他 Krug 大使名厨们的那 次 共 饮。 当 时 我 们 品 尝 了 大 瓶 的 Krug Grande

Cuvée 160ème Édition。我对这款酒爱得不得了, 回到香港后又替自己买了一瓶。它就在我的冰 箱里,等待适当的时机再享用。

如果你是一种辣椒,你会是辣的还是温和的? 我在料理中用过甜椒,但我想我会是辣的那种, 辣得刚刚好有点趣味,让人总想再来一口。

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PEPPER PAIRING Red and green manganji togarashi

Peppers are very challenging for me, because it’s not common to use them in sushi. I decided to present a story around the dish. I’m half Chinese and half Japanese, so I take qing jiao rou si (stir-fried shredded pork with green pepper), a Chinese dish very popular in Japan, and make it like a sushi. A4 wagyu is marinated in soy sauce and honey and grilled over charcoal. On top is red and green manganji togarashi jelly made from the pepper purée mixed with dashi and gelatin. 辣椒对我而言是一大挑战,因为这种食材在寿 司上并不常用。后来,我决定用料理来诉说一 个故事。我是中日混血,所以我将一道在日本 非常受欢迎的中菜─ 青椒肉丝做成寿司 :先将

A4 和牛肉以酱油和蜂蜜腌制,再置于炭火上炙 烤,牛肉片上是红绿万愿寺甜辣椒泥混合日式 高汤与明胶制成的辣椒冻。

WINE PAIRING

Krug Rosé 21ème Édition Krug Rosé is very different from other rosés. For some people, I think pairing beef with a rosé Champagne is unexpected, but for me, red meat with Krug Rosé is always a perfect match. Krug Rosé 与其他粉红香槟有很大差异。我想 有些人可能觉得牛肉搭配粉红香槟很意外,但 我觉得红肉与 Krug Rosé 永远是天作之合。

MUSIC PAIRING

“Hatsukoi” (“First Love”) by Koji Tamaki A lot of Japanese culture came to Hong Kong in the 1980s, and it was very popular for Hong Kong artists to sing Cantonese versions of Japanese songs. Koji Tamaki is a famous Japanese singer, and this is his original version, but I think my guests would recognize the song and remember a Hong Kong artist who also sings it. 八十年代许多日本文化流行到香港,非常多香 港艺人将日文歌翻唱粤语版。玉置浩二是一位 著名的日本歌星,这首歌是他的原唱版本,但 我觉得我的顾客应该会认得这首歌,会想起有 一位香港艺人也唱过。

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Wagyu sushi with manganji togarashi peppers 和牛寿司佐万愿寺甜辣椒


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ROBIN ZAVOU

T H E K RU G RO O M, MAN D AR I N O R I ENTA L H O NG KO NG

Do you like spicy peppers? They aren’t something I automatically pick up. But I tried an interesting chili sauce in Dubai recently. It was quite mild and had almost a wasabi flavor. They brought out eight sauces, from mild all the way to the top. I think I got to number five.

你喜欢辣的辣椒吗? 我通常不会选辣的辣椒,但我最近在杜拜吃到 一种很有意思的辣椒酱,辣性很温和,有一种 山葵的味道。他们拿出八种酱,从最温和的辣 到 非 常 辣 的 等 级, 我 好 像 吃 到 了 第 五 级 的 辣 吧。

How have you prepared peppers to highlight their versatility? Chili peppers are probably the most versatile. You can pickle them or use them in marinades and sauces to add a bit of heat. You can burn chili powder and get a nice smoky flavor. If we put the smoke in a dome, I wonder if it would permeate the dish?

你如何制备辣椒来突显它的用途之广? 辣的辣椒应该可说是最好用的,可以腌制,也可 以将它加在腌渍调料里和酱汁里增添辣味。也 可以烧制辣椒粉,会有很好闻的烟熏香味。如 果把这些烟封在半圆形的容器里,我好奇会否

Tell us about a dish you’ve created to showcase the versatility of Krug. We have one at the moment with raw scallop marinated and seasoned with roasted kombu. It’s paired with seaweed meringue, raw and pickled turnip, and dashi. You’ve got the freshness, the pickled sweetness, the smokiness, the umami, the crunch, and the airy crispiness. Krug Grande Cuvée has the complexity to handle everything and pull it together.

渗入整道料理之中呢?

你设计过什么料理来展现 Krug 的百搭? 我们做过一道菜,以烤昆布作调料腌渍生干贝, 搭配海带蛋白霜、生的与腌渍的大头菜和日式 高汤。这道料理吃得到食材的新鲜、渍物的甜 味、烟熏味、鲜味、清脆和空气感饱满的酥脆。

Krug Grande Cuvée 的繁复口感足以将所有食材 风味融合在一起。

What’s your favorite Krug for pairing? I love Krug Grande Cuvée. It’s got the nuttiness and all these flavors coming through from the chardonnay that work beautifully with fish, seafood, poultry, white meats, and so much more. When we go to a friend’s house and do a raclette, I bring a couple of bottles of Krug, and we enjoy good Champagne and good company.

If you were a pepper, which type would you be, spicy or mild? I guess I’m probably a shishito, quite a mild pepper. I can have a laugh, but I’m quite reserved as well.

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你最喜欢用来搭配料理的 Krug 是哪一款? 我 很 爱 Krug Grande Cuvée, 它 有 坚 果 味 和 霞 多丽葡萄散发出的各种美妙香气,不论搭配鱼、 海鲜、禽肉、白肉和很多种食材都很适合。我 们有次到朋友家做拉可雷特奶酪,我带了几瓶

Krug 过去,香槟好喝,友谊无价,宾主尽欢。

如果你是一种辣椒,你会是辣的还是温和的? 我应该会是日本甜椒吧,辣性很温和的辣椒。我 可以很豪放,但同时又很内敛。


Braised abalone with cuttlefish noodles and shishito pepper tempura 卤鲍鱼佐墨鱼面与 日式甜椒天妇罗

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

PEPPER PAIRING Shishito

There are quite a few things going on at once in this dish. The shishito pepper and calamari tempura are very Japanese. We use Chinese techniques for the abalone, which is cooked for about forty hours in broth and then steamed. The abalone liver sauce is like a French butter sauce. And “noodles” are made from cuttlefish purée and coconut milk passed through a tamis, rolled, cooked sous vide, and sliced. 这道料理有许多精彩之处。日本甜椒与鱿鱼天妇罗走和 风路线,鲍鱼的处理用的是中式烹调技艺,先在高汤里 煮约四十小时再蒸煮。鲍鱼肝酱很像法式黄油酱, 「面」 则是用墨鱼泥和椰奶过筛后卷制而成,真空低温烹调后 再切成长条状。

WINE PAIRING

Krug Grande Cuvée 167ème Édition Krug Grande Cuvée is quite a complex Champagne. It’s like an orchestra with many instruments that you can always connect with. The abalone liver sauce is thick, strong, and pungent, and the tempura is quite light, but the Krug Grande Cuvée is able to work with all the elements and pull them together. Krug Grande Cuvée 是一款相当繁复的香槟,就像用许 多种你很熟悉的乐器奏出的交响乐。鲍鱼肝酱厚重、浓 烈、辛辣,天妇罗则非常清淡,Krug Grande Cuvée 就 是能与所有元素组合起来,将它们融为一体。

MUSIC PAIRING

Peter and the Wolf, op. 67, by Sergei Prokofiev In this composition, each character is represented by a different instrument and leitmotif: the flute plays the bird, the bassoon plays the grandfather, French horns play the wolf, and the strings play Peter. In this dish, the shishito is like the flute – it’s subtle and floats above the stronger flavors but also has its own solo part. 这首曲子里,每一个角色都由不同的乐器和主导动机代 表: 长笛代表的是鸟、巴松管代表祖父、法国号代表狼、 弦乐器代表彼得。这道料理中,日本甜椒就像长笛,尽 管幽微,却凌驾于较强烈的风味之上,但也有它独奏的 时候。

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UWE OPOCENSKY

R E STA U RAN T PETRU S , I S L AN D S H AN G R I - L A H O N G KO NG

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Do you like spicy peppers? I love peppers, but I’m not into the spicy spectrum. I won’t eat something like the ghost pepper – that for me is where the pleasure stops. The problem is that too much spice kills the palate. I think Indian curries have a great balance of spice without killing things. But properly spicy Thai? That takes a skill set I personally don’t have.

What is your most intriguing method of preparing peppers? I think it’s the pepper terrine. We marinate Trinidad scorpion peppers in a pickling juice for about three to four weeks. Guests only see bell pepper in a clear jelly, and it looks unassuming, but then it hits them with the spiciness.

What words of advice can you share about working with peppers? Wash your hands immediately. If you don’t, you’ll learn very quickly that it gets fiery!

What is an unforgettable memory you have of drinking Krug? I cooked for a special Krug press trip in Vienna and tried the first trilogy of Krug vintages, Krug 1990, Krug 1989, and Krug 1988. Later that evening when we went out, we ordered a bottle of Krug Grande Cuvée and got an old label from the ’60s! They were all amazing. You could feel the depth and the aromas. The fact that they still had so much life really showed the dedication and vision behind their Champagnes. I’ve done many incredible, unforgettable things with Krug over the years, but this one really stands out. And to this day, Krug Collection 1990 is still my favorite.

If you were a pepper, which type would you be, spicy or mild? Well my favorite pepper is the bell pepper. It’s on the sweeter side, just like me.

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你喝 Krug 有什么难忘的回忆吗?

你喜欢辣的辣椒吗? 我很喜欢辣椒,不爱辣的那一类,像鬼椒那种我是绝对

我曾在维也纳一趟特别的 Krug 媒体之旅中担任厨师,也

不吃的,辣味太强烈会让味蕾麻木,那对我而言已经没

第一次品尝到 1988、1989、1990 连续出产的三个好年

有饮食的欢愉可言了。我觉得印度咖喱就把辛香料平衡

份的 Krug Collection。那天晚上我们在外点了一瓶 Krug

得很好,丝毫不会彼此减损。至于辣得恰到好处的泰式

Grande Cuvée,上面的酒标竟然是六十年代的!这几款

咖喱呢?那需要高超的技巧,我个人功力尚待磨练。

年份香槟都美味无比,感受得到它们的深度与香气。经 过这么多年仍然朝气蓬勃,证明了 Krug 香槟背后的付 出与远见。多年来我与 Krug 有过许多次很棒的、令人

你制备辣椒最厉害的方法是什么? 我认为是辣椒冻派。我们先用酱汁腌渍千里达毒蝎辣椒

印象深刻的合作,但这一次格外独特。直到今日,Krug

大概三到四周,顾客只会看到在透明的冻派里有灯笼辣

Collection 1990 依然是我的最爱。

椒,似乎毫不起眼,但吃一口就会被它直冲脑门的辣劲

如果你是一种辣椒,你会是辣的还是温和的?

呛到。

嗯,我最喜欢的是灯笼辣椒,它比较亲切可人,就跟我

对于用辣椒入菜你会给什么样的建议?

一样。

用完马上洗手,不然手会立刻辣到发烫!

PEPPER PAIRING

WINE PAIRING

Trinidad scorpion, Scotch bonnet,

Krug Grande Cuvée 167ème Édition

Habanada, shishito, Italian sweet

The main part of the dish is smoked and barbequed quail dressed with quail and Sichuan pepper garum. Guests can tear off a piece and wrap it in a wild pepper leaf along with any combination of pepper condiments. There’s a full spectrum of flavors, spice levels, and presentations, including shishito peppers marinated in quail garum, red pepper coulis, Italian sweet pepper rolls, Italian sweet pepper and spicy pickling juice terrine, and “glass” made of kuzu and spicy pickling juice.

MUSIC PAIRING

“La Ritournelle” (feat. Will Heard) by Pete Tong with the Heritage Orchestra

Because of all the varying degrees of spiciness and the range of flavors and aromas, I think the full spectrum of Krug Grande Cuvée applies better than any other Champagne. This is exactly the type of situation where its complexity always stands out, because it can play with every single ingredient.

I’m a big fan of house music. I found this amazing DJ who reworks club music with a full-scale orchestra to soften the extremes. I really like that balance. Similarly, this dish finds balance between mild and spicy peppers and the ways they’re presented.

由于这道料理的辣度、风味、香气都有许多

我对浩室音乐非常着迷。我发现这个 DJ 很厉

不 同 层 次, 涵 盖 甚 广, 我 觉 得 无 所 不 包 的

害,他把电子舞曲用全编制交响乐重新创作,

Krug Grande Cuvée 比其他任何香槟都适合。

将极端尖锐的部分软化,我非常喜欢这种平

这正是繁复永远胜出的时刻,因为这款酒什

衡。这道料理也是相同道理,在辣度温和与

么食材都能搭。

浓烈的辣椒之间,以及不同辣椒的呈现方式 中间寻找平衡点。

这道料理的主角是烟熏与烧烤鹌鹑淋上鹌鹑 与四川辣椒鱼酱。吃的时候可以撕下一片肉 包在生辣椒叶里,再搭配任何组合的辣椒调 味料一起吃,满满数不尽的风味、辣度与表 现方式,有鹌鹑鱼酱腌渍的日本甜椒、红椒酱、 意大利甜椒卷、意大利甜椒与辣腌渍汁冻派, 以及用葛和辣腌渍汁制成的「玻璃」等应有 尽有。

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caption 或

BBQ quail with smoked, aged, pickled, and fermented peppers 烧烤鹌鹑佐烟熏、熟成、腌渍、发酵辣椒

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

VICKY CHENG

V EA R E STA U R AN T & LO U NG E

Do you like spicy peppers? I love peppers, especially spicy ones. I grew up eating Thai chilies, and my favorite now is habanero. Different peppers are special for their unique flavors, and I love them all.

What words of advice can you share about working with peppers? Explore, explore, explore. Don’t be afraid of the spice level, because there’s always a way to balance it or to tone it down. And don’t be afraid to blend different peppers for the flavors and aromas they bring.

If your dish were an orchestra, what instrument would your pepper play? The first thing that comes to mind is the trumpet, because there are highs and lows. You have the spiciness of the habanero and jalapeño and the sweetness of the Italian chilies. Even though fish maw is the more expensive ingredient, the peppers provide the loudest flavor notes.

你喜欢辣椒吗? 我爱辣椒,尤其是辣的辣椒。我从小就吃泰 国辣椒,现在最喜欢的是哈瓦那辣椒。不同 辣椒都有自己独特的风味,我都喜欢。

对于用辣椒入菜你会给什么样的建议? 尝试、尝试、再尝试。不要怕它的辣度,因 为总有方法去平衡它或减低它,也不要怕将 风味和香气不同的辣椒混合使用。

假设你的料理是交响乐,你的辣椒演奏的是 哪一种乐器? 我第一个想到的是声音有高有低的小号。你 会尝到哈瓦那辣椒和墨西哥辣椒的辣,还有 意大利甜辣椒的甜。虽然花胶是比较昂贵的 食材,辣椒的风味奏出的音符却最响亮。

你还记得第一次喝 Krug 的感受吗? 我初次来香港时运气很好,喝到了 1985 年份

Do you remember your first sip of Krug? When I first arrived in Hong Kong, I was lucky enough to try a Krug 1985 as my first ever taste of Krug. It was so memorable. It was old and yeasty with fine bubbles, and it was served at just the right temperature. I wasn’t a Krug Ambassade yet, but that was when I started to fall in love with Krug. My birth year is also 1985, and now I have some bottles of Krug 1985 in my fridge.

的 Krug 香槟,那是我第一次喝 Krug,那感 觉我至今都忘不了。那款香槟陈年已久,有 香浓酵母味和细致气泡,而且入口时刚好处 于最佳温度,我就对 Krug 一见钟情了。我是

1985 年出生的,现在我的冰箱里也有 1985 年的 Krug。

如果你是一种辣椒,你会是辣的还是温和的? If you were a pepper, which type would you be, spicy or mild? I’d like to say I’m a jalapeño. It’s a medium-spicy pepper that you can still enjoy when it’s raw. And I’m an all-around nice person, but I can be fierce when I have to be in the kitchen.

我觉得自己是墨西哥辣椒,它的辣性中等, 但 生 吃 时 还 是 可 以 享 受 那 股 劲 道。 我 这 个 人 向 来 温 和, 但 在 厨 房 的 时 候 也 可 以 变 得 很凶猛。

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

PEPPER PAIRING

WINE PAIRING

Habanero, jalapeño, Italian

Krug Rosé 21ème Édition

sweet chili

When Krug announced the pepper as the single ingredient, I immediately thought of this dish. A famous Hunan dish called duo jiao yu tou (fish head with chopped chili) uses a Chinese technique of fermenting the peppers with salt and rose wine. I ferment three types of peppers, each of which brings in a different flavor, and then sauté the mixture in butter, which protects the palate from the spiciness. I also braise an aged fish maw in butter, giving it a texture similar to mochi. Spicy heat doesn’t exist in French cuisine, and most spicy cuisines, like Hunan, wouldn’t use butter. So this dish is absolutely Chinese, absolutely French, and absolutely VEA.

Krug Rosé works beautifully with spicy foods. It has a unique expression that allows it to hold its own and even amplify the flavors and aromas of the different peppers. Krug Rosé 与辣的食物很搭,它有一种

MUSIC PAIRING

In the Hall of the Mountain King by Edvard Grieg This dish is mild at the beginning and gradually gets more and more spicy. You’ll feel that echoed in this piece, which begins slowly with quiet notes. Then the main melody speeds up until it becomes loud and frenetic by the end.

绝 无 仅 有 的 体 现 方 式, 不 仅 能 坚 守 自 己 的 风 格, 还 能 放 大 不 同 辣 椒 的 风 味

这道料理入口时很温和,随后逐渐变得

和香气。

越来越辣。这首曲子也会让你不断有这 种感受,一开始是缓慢的轻音符,然后 主旋律速度加快,直到最后变得震耳欲 聋又狂乱。

Krug 宣布辣椒是单一主题食材时,我马 上就想到这道料理。有一道著名的湖南 菜叫做剁椒鱼头,以中式烹调法用盐和 粉红酒发酵辣椒。我发酵了三种辣椒, 每一种都有自己的风味,然后再把它们 一起浸在奶油里,保护味蕾不被辣到。 我还用黄油卤陈年花胶,赋予它类似麻 糬的口感。 法式料理是没有辣味的,而多数辣味菜 式例如湖南菜则不会用黄油,所以这道 料理既中式、又法式,保证「VEA」出品。

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Chopped chili pepper fish maw 剁椒花胶


PRESENTED BY KRUG

GUILLAUME GALLIOT C APR I C E , FO U R S E A S O N S H O N G KO NG

What’s the spiciest pepper you’ve ever eaten?

我在北京工作时,有位厨师问我有没有尝过印

If your dish were an orchestra, what instrument would your pepper play?

假设你的料理是交响乐,你的辣椒演奏的是哪 一种乐器?

The bass. Its role in the orchestra is slow in arriving but strong and very important to the whole thing.

贝斯。低音吉他在交响乐里的角色是慢慢进入

What words of advice can you give about working with peppers? Peppers are very versatile, but you have to find the right balance with other ingredients. For example, I don’t think pepper is compatible with truffle or caviar. It takes time to research, and when you taste it, you’ll know what works and what doesn’t.

What unforgettable memory do you have of drinking Krug? Every time I’ve opened a bottle of Krug, I’ve remembered where I was and who I shared it with. It’s always an unforgettable memory. When Caprice got its third Michelin star, we opened a jeroboam of Krug Grande Cuvée 160ème Édition to celebrate. When I was in Oaxaca with the other Krug Ambassade Chefs earlier this year, we discovered vintages that I’d never tried before, Krug 1982 and Krug 1989. They’re very impressive!

If you were a pepper, which type would you be, spicy or mild? I’d be something in the middle. I’d be a piquillo with a small dash of Espelette for a little punch, just to remind everyone that I’m nice, but be careful.

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你吃过最辣的辣椒是哪一种?

When I was working in Beijing, another chef asked me if I’d ever tried the ghost pepper – one of the spiciest in the world. He put a small bit in the consommé, and even that was very strong. So I brought one back to my kitchen and asked the team, “Who likes spicy peppers?” I gave them a bit, and the guys were in pain!

TK | north to niseko

度鬼椒,世界上最辣的辣椒。他只放一点点到 法式高汤里,辣味就很浓烈了。于是我带了一 根回到我的厨房,问同事说: 「谁喜欢吃辣椒?」 我只给他们尝一点点,他们就辣到受不了了!

却强而有力,且对整体有很重要的作用。

对于用辣椒入菜你会给什么样的建议? 辣椒的用途很广,但必须找到它与其他食材的 平衡。比如说,我就不认为辣椒适合搭配松露 或鱼子酱,这要花时间去研究。只要用嘴去品 尝,就会知道怎样搭配好、怎样不好。

你喝 Krug 有什么难忘回忆吗? 我每次开 Krug 香槟,都记得当时我人在哪里, 与谁共饮,每次我都记忆犹新。 「Caprice」荣 获第三颗米其林星星时,我们开了一瓶五公升 的 Krug Grande Cuvée 160ème Édition 庆 祝。 今年我与其他 Krug 大使在瓦哈卡时,我们发 现了我从没喝过的 1982 和 1989 年份 Krug 香 槟,实在令人惊艳!

如果你是一种辣椒,你会是辣的还是温和的? 我应该会介于中间,类似融合些许埃斯普莱特 辣椒的西班牙红椒,会有一点劲道,提醒大家 我人很好,但你还是要小心。


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PRESENTED BY KRUG

Cocoa pigeon and piquillo condiment 可可鸽与西班牙红椒调味料

PEPPER PAIRING Piquillo

Peppers are easy to cook, but challenging to match. I had to find the right ingredient to combine with the pepper to balance it for the Champagne pairing. The piquillo is a little sweet, a little bitter, and I find that it’s a very, very good match with strawberry. Because I went to Mexico with Krug, I wanted to use a signature dish that shows Mexican influence – the cocoa pigeon, cooked in a cocoa shell and served with cocoa powder. The Mayan cocoa plus the strawberry plus the piquillo – boom, boom, boom! The dish came together very quickly and easily. 辣椒容易烹调却很难搭配,我得找到适合的食材与辣椒 结合, 彼此互相平衡又适合佐香槟。西班牙红椒有点甜、 有点苦,我发现它非常、非常适合搭配草莓。因为我和

Krug 一起去了墨西哥,我就想用一道招牌菜表现出墨 西哥的影响。我将可可鸽置于可可壳里烹煮,再以可可 粉入菜, 玛雅可可加草莓加西班牙红椒迸出无限的火花, 碰碰碰!没多久这道料理就成形了!

WINE PAIRING

Krug Rosé 21ème Édition Krug Rosé typically pairs very well with savory dishes, and I think it brings an interesting freshness to the more gamey taste of the pigeon. And the red fruit aromas in the Champagne are echoed in the strawberry and piquillo purée. Krug Rosé 通常适合搭配风味浓郁的料理,我觉得它能 从腥骚味较重的鸽肉里带出一股清新,非常有意思,而 香槟红葡萄的香气则与草莓和西班牙红椒酱相互激荡。

MUSIC PAIRING

“Funiculì, Funiculà” by Luigi Denza and Peppino Turco, performed by Luciano Pavarotti The dish can start with a punch and is like a symphony that starts out strong with the strings and all the other instruments. Then you take in some of the sauce, so it slows a bit and then finishes very forcefully again. 刚入口这道料理就给你一记重击,如同交响乐以弦乐器 和其他所有乐器磅礴开场,然后你尝一点酱,曲子开始 悠缓下来,结尾再强而有力的划下句点。 north to niseko

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PRESENTED BY KERRY HOTEL , HONG KONG

焕然一新

taking it modern Hung Tong’s innovative chef reimagines classic Cantonese.

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香港嘉里酒店中菜行政总厨余伟经说道 : 「我 们要不断推陈出新,才能使宾客耳目一新。 」 他重绎酒店内招牌粤菜餐厅「红糖」的菜单, 出品令宾客印象深刻。菜单新添十几道佳肴 与令人垂涎的全新粤式点心系列,为传统经 典粤菜爱好者带来启发性的现代风味与呈现 方式。 这是「红糖」自 2017 年开幕以来第一次 重新设计菜单,并特别改用日本 M.Style 和西 班 牙 Pordamsa 的 典 雅 餐 具, 展 现 时 尚 的 现 代形象与氛围。高度重视的客制化服务与引 人入胜的用餐氛围相得益彰。据余总厨所言, 相较于城市中其他粤菜餐厅, 「红糖」更加亲 民舒心。升级版的菜单以及时尚的环境造就 完美的用餐气氛,吸引越来越多的香港年轻 族群。 总厨的新菜单中有一道出色的开胃菜, 冰镇鲍鱼、枫糖黑豚肉叉烧和金果青柠明虾 球绚丽地呈现于拼盘中,让宾客,尤其是情 侣或夫妇,可以亲昵共享总厨的绝佳创作。 另一道总厨佳作松露白玉鲜蟹钳,精妙

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“ A LWAY S D O S O M E T H I N G D I F F E R E N T, ” says Ken Yu, executive Chinese chef at Kerry Hotel, Hong Kong. “That’s how you make an impression on diners.” Yu has been making quite a notable impression by transforming the menu at Hung Tong, the hotel’s signature Cantonese restaurant. More than a dozen dishes, along with an exciting new dim sum selection, have been added, bringing inspired contemporary flavors and presentation to traditional Cantonese favorites. The redesign of the menu, the first since the restaurant’s opening in 2017, is a fitting counterpart to Hung Tong’s sleekly modern look and feel, typified by elegant new tableware from M.Style of Japan and Pordamsa of Spain. A heightened emphasis on personalized service warmly complements Hung Tong’s engaging vibe, which, according to Yu, is “more casual and less intimidating” than that of many the city’s other Cantonese finedining establishments. The enhanced menu and stylish surroundings perfectly reflect an ambience that “is definitely appealing more and more to Hong Kong’s younger crowd.” One exceptional starter in the chef’s expanded repertoire features chilled marinated fresh abalone with housemade sauce, barbecued premium pork with maple syrup, and stir-fried prawns with mango and lime. Strikingly presented on a platter, it allows diners – couples in particular – to sample a selection of the chef’s greatest hits in intimately shareable portions.


← Braised abalone with black mushrooms and vegetables 鲍鱼三叠 ↓ Steamed fresh crab claw and winter melon with truffle 松露白玉鲜蟹钳 ↓↓ Platter: chilled marinated fresh abalone with housemade sauce, barbecued premium pork with maple syrup, and stir-fried prawns with mango and lime 拼盘: 冰镇鲍鱼、枫糖黑豚 肉叉烧和金果青柠明虾球

Executive Chinese Chef Ken Yu 中菜行政总厨余伟经

Steamed fresh crab claw paired with winter melon delivers the rich fragrance of fresh truffle in a lobster-based stock. Sea cucumber, a perennial Cantonese indulgence, gets a creatively contemporary twist. The panfried delicacy is stuffed with shrimp and pork and served with a flavorful, nutritious soup that contains quinoa, pumpkin, and chicken. No feast would be truly Cantonese without the luxury of abalone. In the chef’s expert hands, slowly braised and served with black mushrooms and vegetables, it becomes the irresistible hero of the dish. Yu’s culinary philosophy remains simple: “Hung Tong’s food is all about the essence of Cantonese flavors and aromas, presented with a distinctly modern sensibility.”

带出龙虾高汤中新鲜松露的浓郁香气。粤 菜中不可或缺的海参也有了独具创意的现 代风貌,煎酿关东辽参饱藏鲜虾与猪肉, 搭配别具风味及营养的藜麦南瓜鸡汤。正 统的粤式盛宴也绝对少不了鲍鱼名馔,细 火慢炖的鲍鱼搭配黑蕈菇和鲜蔬,在总厨 的巧手下化作诱人的鲍鱼三叠。余总厨的 烹饪理念始终简洁扼要,他总结说: 「 『红糖』 的料理就是以鲜明的现代感呈现粤式风味 与香气的精华。 」 north to niseko

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以酒会友

bordeaux among friends Good wine, good food, and good company mark the centennial of Hong Kong’s foremost importer of fine wines.

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“ T H E N U M B E R O N E word is terroir,” says Aymeric de Gironde with a wink. “In the wine world, we like to use complicated words that make us look clever. If you’re stuck on a question and don’t know the answer? ‘Ah, that’s the terroir.’” The CEO of Château Troplong Mondot is kidding, of course. It’s not the type of banter one expects from the head of a top Right Bank estate at an elegant wine dinner. But that’s just the point of this particular occasion. De Gironde, seated at a dining table comfortably set for ten in the beautiful home of Philippe and Cherie Bera, chats as easily as if he were attending a dinner party among friends rather than delivering the keynote address at a promotional event. The uniquely convivial affair is the brainchild of Philippe Bera, CEO of Omtis Fine Wines. “With Omtis Group turning one hundred this year,” he says, “we’re upping the game by hosting one hundred different events, from intimate dinners to larger tastings. But this is the one I myself was looking forward to the most. It’s a rare opportunity to share with our customers the pleasures of good wine, good food, and good company in such a personal setting. If we can’t take them to France, then we’ve brought the Château Troplong Mondot experience here.” Indeed, de Gironde is accompanied by David Charrier, head chef of Les Belles Perdrix de Troplong Mondot, the château’s Michelin-starred restaurant, currently closed for refurbishment. Presiding over the Beras’ kitchen, he personally prepares the evening’s five-course dinner. To preserve his signature emphasis on fresh seasonal products, Charrier arrived two days in advance to scout the Wan Chai market. “I was pleasantly surprised to discover products as good as these in Hong Kong,” says Charrier of his finds, including local green peas and premium prawns. “Good cuisine is made with good products – always.” To further enhance the celebration, de Gironde has brought bottles of Mondot 2015 and magnums of various vintages of Château Troplong Mondot to share throughout the

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY OMTIS FINE WINES


From top to bottom (从上至下): Philippe Bera, David Charrier, and Aymeric de Gironde


PRESENTED BY OMTIS FINE WINES

Philippe及Aymeric在客厅饱 览海景的落地窗前谈天

meal. In true family style, the courses are not paired with specific vintages. Guests are invited instead to taste them all and refill their glasses according to personal preference. “Because 2019 is Omtis’ centennial,” says de Gironde, “we felt it important to find a vintage that ends in 9. One of the best in the cellar turns out to be 1989, so it was an easy choice. Then, 2005 was an amazing vintage in Bordeaux in general and particularly at Troplong Mondot. We received 100 points from Robert Parker. They’re both very good wines but for very different reasons. So it will be interesting to compare. “This other wine is 2012. I think our property outperformed the vintage that year. We really over-delivered. And to me, at this moment, it’s going from a young wine to showing some hints of developing its second life – I like it very much.” Conversation over the course of the meal has covered everything from wine and family

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Blueberry tartelette with white chocolate disks, served on Bera's heirloom plates 放在Philippe的传家手 绘餐具上的蓝莓派

卓 龙 梦 特 酒 庄 的 首 席 执 行 长 Aymeric de 「 『风土』一词总被人 Gironde 眨了眨眼说道 : 挂在嘴边。在葡萄酒界我们喜欢用隐晦的词 语来饰智矜愚,当卡在一个问题上不知道如 何解答时,就说 : 『啊,那就是风土!』 」 身 为 顶 级 右 岸 酒 庄 执 行 长, 他 当 然 只 是 开 开 玩 笑, 而 葡 萄 酒 晚 宴 中 的 宾 客 也 没 预 料 到 这 番 玩 笑, 正 是 这 场 晚 宴 的 焦 点。 在 Philippe 和 Cherie Bera 的 美 宅 中,

Aymeric 坐 在 十 人 的 餐 桌 旁 轻 松 自 适 地 谈 天,犹如正与朋友参加一场晚餐派对,而非

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Bera and de Gironde chat while admiring the seaside view from Bera's living room


(de Gironde’s five-year-old daughter is invited to sniff her father’s wine every night and can recognize when he is not drinking a Bordeaux!) to politics and the latest Marvel movie. As Charrier’s famous blueberry tartelette is served, handsomely plated on hand-painted heirloom dinnerware bequeathed to Bera by his grandmother, the discussion returns to de Gironde and the changes he has implemented since joining the château two years ago. “Every person who runs a winery will contribute his own style and his own hand,” he says. “I want to make wines that are incredible in their balance, in their freshness, in their precision. I will definitely add my input – the wine has already changed in the first two vintages I’ve made. But I can’t change everything, because the core comes from the land. As much as we think we’re smart and skilled winemakers, the thing that actually speaks is the terroir.” He winks again, but this time he means what he says.

在宣传活动中发表主题演说。 晚宴的独特欢愉气氛要归功于安天时酒 「安 库行政总监 Philippe 的精心安排。他说 : 天时集团今年迈入百岁,因此我们隆重以待, 举办从私人晚宴到大型品酒会等百种活动。 但我个人最期待的还是此次难得的机会,在 如此私人的环境中与宾客分享美酒、佳肴和 良伴的乐趣。我们无法带他们亲临法国,于 是在此献上卓龙梦特酒庄的体验。 」

Aymeric 其实还有庄园中米其林星级餐 厅「Les Belles Perdrix」主厨─ David Charrier north to niseko

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“It's a rare opportunity to share with our customers the pleasures of good food, good wine, and good company in such a personal setting. If we can't take them to France, then we've brought the Château Troplong Mondot experience here. 很难得有这个机会,在如 此私人的环境中与宾客 分享美酒、佳肴和良伴 的乐趣。我们无法带他 们亲临法国,于是在此献 上卓龙梦特酒庄的体验。

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的陪伴,餐厅目前因翻修而暂时歇业,于是他前来主理

「另一款是 2012 年。我认为我们酒庄在当年的表现

Philippe 的厨房,亲自下厨准备宴席中的五道菜式​​。David

异常地好,品质极佳。对我来说,年轻葡萄酒此时正逐

对新鲜时令食材一贯坚持,所以他特意提前两天抵达,并

渐展露出其生命第二春的迹象,使我非常喜欢。 」

走访湾仔市场。他说 : 「我惊喜地发现香港的食材也是同

在用餐过程中的谈天话题从葡萄酒到家庭生活,再

样地优质。 」他细数着他的发现,像是本地绿豌豆和优质

到政治和最新的漫威电影。Aymeric 的五岁女儿每晚都

「美食总是出于好食材。 」 鲜虾等。David 称 :

会嗅闻爸爸喝的葡萄酒,还能知道他什么时候喝的不是

为 了 加 码 庆 祝 活 动,Aymeric 带 来 卓 龙 梦 特 庄 园

波尔多。当甜点上桌之时,眼见 David 的知名蓝莓派精

2015 年份以及庄园中各种年份的大瓶酒,并于用餐过程

美地放在 Philippe 祖母的传家手绘餐具上,同时,话题

中分享。在居家的随兴氛围中,不坚持特定的餐酒搭配,

回到 Aymeric 身上以及他在两年前加入庄园后所实行的

为的就是让宾客品尝所有酒款,并依其喜好尽情添酒。

改变。

「由于 2019 年是安天时酒库的百年纪 Aymeric 说 :

他说 : 「每位酒庄的经营者都会贡献自身风格与心

念,我们认为找一款年份以 9 作结的美酒很重要,而酒

力,我想酿出在平衡、新鲜、精确度各方面都杰出的葡

窖中最好的 1989 年份便成为不二之选。另外,2005 年

萄酒。我一定亲力而为,我已为头两个年份的葡萄酒做

波尔多也同样出色,特别是在卓龙梦特酒庄,还获得

出调整,但无法完全改变,因为本质始终来自土地。尽

Robert Parker 的百分评鉴。两款皆为佳酿,但表现亮眼

管我们自誉为聪明且技术娴熟的酿酒师,依然要听从于

的原因各异,所以相较之下更显有趣。 」

风土条件。 」他又眨了眨眼,但这次他没在开玩笑。

TK | north to niseko

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PHILIPPE BERA


Sea bass, artichoke, and spinach, finished with fish bones jus and lemon 海鲈鱼、朝鲜蓟及菠菜,配鱼骨酱汁和柠檬


W E LCO M E F LOW E R 45 ml Patrón Añejo 10 ml butterscotch liqueur infused with salt and raisins 20 ml water 2 g matcha powder 2 dashes homemade hinoki bitters edible flowers for decoration

1. Stir matcha powder with bamboo whisk to create tea. 2. Pour all ingredients into a shaker, add ice, and shake. 3. Pour through tea strainer into glass. 4. Decorate with flowers.

45毫升 培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒 1 0毫升 咸葡萄干风味奶油糖香甜酒 20毫升 清水 2克 抹茶粉 2抖振 自制桧木味苦精 食用鲜花装饰

1. 用竹制搅拌器拌匀抹茶粉以制茶 2. 将所有配料倒入调酒杯,加入冰块后 摇荡混合 3. 以滤茶器过筛后倒入杯中 4. 用鲜花装饰


PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

陈酿之美

the benefits of aging Patrón’s premium aged tequilas inspire some highly advantaged cocktails.

培恩陈年龙舌兰酒为何如此迷人?日本顶级调 酒师之一的 Mitsuhiro Nakamura 相信,透过参 观墨西哥哈利斯科州的培恩酿酒厂并观赏其古 老的酿制过程,使他对于这个提问有了更深刻 的理解。他发现自己对不朽传统的迷恋激发了 他的想像力,创作出更多款耳目一新和原始经 典的鸡尾酒。 「我在三十一岁的时候开始研究日本茶 道。 」 在 东 京 半 岛 酒 店「Peter」 酒 吧 担 任 首 「茶道界中有 席 调 酒 师 的 Mitsuhiro 说 道 : 许 多 禅 语, 而 当 我 在 参 观 培 恩 酒 厂 时, 一 句

COURTESY OF PATRÓN (2)

WHAT IS THE SPECIAL ALLURE of Patrón’s aged tequilas? One of Japan’s top bartenders, Mitsuhiro Nakamura, is convinced that visiting Patrón’s distillery in Jalisco, Mexico, and watching the ancient process unfold brought him a deeper understanding of that question. He found his imagination spurred to create a slew of new and original cocktails by those insights – and by his fascination with another time-honored tradition. “I took up the study of the Japanese tea ceremony when I was thirty-one,” says Nakamura, who is head bartender of Peter: The Bar at The Peninsula Tokyo. “There are many proverbs in the world of the tea ceremony, but one that resonated on my visit to Patrón was 白珪尚可磨 , which says that even an already white and beautiful stone will be enhanced by polishing. In other words, don’t rest on your laurels but continue the pursuit of progress. It was a real eye-opener that such a distinguished brand as Patrón is still looking for ways to improve their barrelaging methods.” Nakamura met Patrón’s master distiller, Francisco Alcaraz, who trained as a bourbon cask maker in his youth and now uses his expertise in making tequila. He disclosed that the distinctive flavors of Patrón Añejo are achieved by aging in five types of oak casks, each of which imparts its own distinct characteristics. Patrón’s process first yields a full-bodied raw tequila by fermenting the juices as well as the fibers of tahona-crushed agave. Filtering, blending, and reduction with locally sourced distilled water then take place before cask-aging. “I was so moved by my visit to Patrón that I wanted to recreate the essence of its warm hospitality in a cocktail,” says Nakamura. “In Welcome Flower, I use Patrón Añejo’s exceptionally rounded flavor to express the generosity I sensed at the distillery. Even though it was my first visit, it felt familiar, and I represent this with infused butterscotch, letting its flavor blossom gradually. Clean-tasting homemade hinoki bitters offer a lingering aftertaste, reminiscent of the afterglow that remained when I returned. The green matcha and edible flowers convey the visual impact of the brilliant flower beds that welcome visitors to Patrón.” Tequila is a surprisingly versatile food-pairing partner, Nakamura

『白珪尚可磨』在我心中产生了共鸣。其意为, 再洁白的美石都可以打磨,使其尽善尽美。换 句话说,不要固步自封,要锲而不舍。而真正 令我大开眼界的是,像培恩如此杰出的品牌仍 在想方设法、优化其酒桶陈酿的方法。 」 north to niseko

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finds, perhaps because the agave is expressed even after distillation: “Simply adding a celery stick or celery bitters gives new dimension to a highball. And the mellow, aged flavor of Patrón Añejo in a highball really holds its own when mixed with soda.” He also suggests a new take on a classic by using punchy Patrón Reposado in an old-fashioned in place of whisky. Then add a Japanese twist by replacing the sugar cube with Japanese sugar, wasanbon , and the cherry with amanatt ō, a sugar-glazed bean. Grapefruit peel, rather than orange, balances out the concoction. A wedding planner turned aspiring hotelier, Nakamura joined The Peninsula Tokyo in 2010. Since then, his newfound enthusiasm for the convivial art of tending bar has propelled him to represent his country in numerous cocktail competitions, including the Patrón Perfectionists 2018, in which he reached the Top 6. In 2017, Nakamura became the first Japanese presenter for Tales of the Cocktail. At Peter: The Bar, Nakamura picks up on each guest’s preferences, not only through conversation but also by closely observing appearance and mannerisms. He then makes minute adjustments to his recipes to personalize each cocktail to the customer. “At the base of the tea ceremony,” he says, “lies the concept that on every occasion, one must offer the guest hospitality as if it were a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”

Mitsuhiro Nakamura

Mitsuhiro 当 时 遇 到 培 恩 的 资 深 酿 酒 大 师 Francisco Alcaraz,他年轻时曾受训造波旁桶,现在则利用其专业知识 酿造龙舌兰酒。他透露,培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒丰富的风味 层次,成就于会在五种不同的橡木桶中陈酿。培恩的酿制过 程首先是发酵龙舌兰汁液和捣碎的纤维来产出醇厚的生龙舌 兰酒,经过滤、混合和以当地的蒸馏水减低酒精含量后,在 橡木桶老化前,倒入桶中陈年。 「培恩酒厂的参访之旅使我十分感动,想 Mitsuhiro 说 : 用鸡尾酒来重现其热情款待的美好。在 Welcome Flower 鸡 尾酒中,我用培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒的独特圆润风味,传达

O L D - FA S H I O N E D

我在酒厂中感受到的慷慨大方。虽然是首次参访,却感到很

50 ml 1 lump 3 dashes 1 dash 2 pieces 1 twist

熟悉,因此我调入奶油糖香甜酒来表现这份感受,让味道逐

1. Put wasanbon in a glass and add splash of soda and bitters to dissolve it. 2. Pour in Patrón Reposado, add ice, and stir. 3. Garnish with amanatto, skewered on a cocktail stick, and grapefruit peel. 50毫升 培恩金樽龙舌兰酒 1块 和三盆(日式细砂糖) 3抖振 阿博特苦精(Abbott’s Bitter) 1抖振 汽水 2粒 甘纳豆 1捻 葡萄柚皮

1. 将和三盆放入杯中,加入少量汽水和苦精使之溶解 2. 倒入金樽龙舌兰酒,加入冰块后搅拌 3. 以葡萄柚皮与鸡尾酒竹签串上的甘纳豆做装饰

渐绽放开来。纯正的自制桧木味苦精余味绵延,象征我离去 前酒厂散发的余辉。绿抹茶和食用鲜花象征着培恩酒厂中花 团锦簇的视觉震撼,欢迎访客的到来。 」

Mitsuhiro 发现龙舌兰酒八面玲珑的特性,可以与不同 食材搭配,也许是因为龙舌兰的风味在蒸馏后更充分地涌现: 「只需添加芹菜梗或芹菜苦精,就可以让高球鸡尾酒焕然一新。 就算混合了汽水,高球鸡尾酒中培恩珍藏金樽龙舌兰酒的醇 厚陈年风味犹存。 」他还在经典鸡尾酒中玩出新花样,用培恩 金樽龙舌兰酒取代古典鸡尾酒中的威士忌,并以和三盆糖和 樱桃配甘纳豆取代方糖,增添日式风格,另以橙橘皮取代葡 萄柚皮,平衡整杯鸡尾酒。

Mitsuhiro 原是一位婚礼策划师,后来对酒店经营满怀抱 负,因此于 2010 年加入东京半岛酒店。此后,他对调酒艺术 萌发的无比热情,促使他代表日本参与无数鸡尾酒大赛,曾 于 2018 年培恩顶级龙舌兰调酒大赛跻身前 6 名,也在 2017

COURTESY OF PATRÓN (2)

Patrón Reposado wasanbon (fine-grained Japanese sugar) Abbott’s Bitters soda water amanattō (sugar-glazed bean) grapefruit peel

年成为首位主持「美国调酒圣会」的日本人。

Mitsuhiro 在「Peter」酒吧透过与客人交谈及观察其外 表举止来了解他的喜好,旋即微调原配方来客制每款鸡尾酒。 他说 : 「茶道的核心理念适用于每个场合,都必须热情款待客 人,因为这是我和客人的『一期一会』 。 」 north to niseko

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WINE MASTER

那年夏天

out of the past

DAVID HARTUNG

The debut of Dom Ruinart 2007, eleven years in the making, brings back memories of the challenging harvest for an exceptional Champagne. “QUITE A FEW THINGS, ACTUALLY,” says Frédéric Panaïotis, chef de cave of renowned Maison Ruinart, when asked what he recalls of the 2007 growing season for Dom Ruinart. “We remember it all. You really live the harvests.” In Hong Kong to launch the latest release of the house’s legendary flagship wine, Panaïotis might well feel his heart beat a little faster on thinking back to the summer of 2007 when he may have questioned his luck in joining Ruinart as chef de cave in that particular year. The warm sunny spring had heartbreakingly given way to a gloomy wet summer with poor prospects for optimal harvesting conditions. But to his surprise, the sluggish weather did not slow the maturation of the grapes at all. “In the past,” he says, “before global warming, a year like that would have had a delayed harvest. Without enough sunshine, we’d have had to wait, because the maturity wouldn’t go fast enough. But when we checked the grapes in mid-August and saw the numbers, we thought, wow, it will definitely be a super-early harvest! You have to realize that ’07 was only the third time we’d ever had a harvest in August. Since then, we’ve had three more, in ’11, ’17, and ’18.” Fortune continued to smile on Panaïotis when the weather cleared up toward the end of August, giving him a small window of opportunity to harvest the chardonnay before the rains returned and compromised much of the pinot noir and pinot meunier. “The first pinot noir came in before the rain,” he says, “and we made a red wine that was quite good. And the chardonnay came in really early. So actually, the ’07 blanc de blancs overall in Champagne were very, very good. If you look at how we harvest grapes, it’s quite linked – the balance at harvest and what the wine is showing now.” Because of the early pick, the alcohol potential was not very high: around 9.5 percent compared to a more typical range of 10 to 10.5 percent. And the acidity of the grapes, not having suffered through any heat waves that might have burned it, was beautifully preserved. “Unsurprisingly,” says Panaïotis, “the ’07 wine has freshness and a zestier character. It has a green edge, which turns into green tea, and there’s a nice herbaceous component. It’s beautiful. I often compare Dom Ruinart to white burgundy, but the 2007 is more like a chablis – there’s a cooler edge to it. I think there will be other years like this in the future. “I must say I had some slight doubts at the early stages of the ’07. Like, pfft – it’s going to be my first vintage and if it doesn’t taste

good, I’m in trouble.” Panaïotis shakes his head and smiles. “But now, I’m super happy.”

Frédéric Panaïotis 是知名 Ruinart 酒庄首席酿酒 他忆道: 「当 师。当被问及 2007 年酒庄的生长季, 时发生了很多事情,一切历历在目。我们真的与 收成共相唇齿。 」 在香港推出闻名遐迩的新旗舰酒款之时,

2007 年夏天的那段回忆让 Frédéric 的心跳不禁 加快。当年没有阳光明媚的春天,只有令人心灰 意冷的阴沉幽暗,潮湿的夏天又不利于取得最 佳的采收成果,这一切都让他质疑,自己能够在

Ruinart 酒庄担任首席酿酒师是否只是一时的运 气。 然而,出乎他意料,滞怠的天气完全没有 减缓葡萄的熟成速度。他说 : 「在全球暖化之前, 像这样的一年,收成必会延迟。没有充足的阳光, 成熟度速度不够快,我们只能等。然而,当我们 在八月中旬测查葡萄时,我们看到数字后都惊 呼『这绝对是要提早采收!』要知道,2007 年 仅是第三次在八月份就能拥有收成,此后又有了

2011、2017 和 2018 三次。」 其后当年天气一直放晴到八月底,让他有 短暂的时间在雨季来临前采收霞多丽葡萄,也 避免雨季危及黑皮诺和莫尼耶皮诺葡萄,对此 「第一批黑皮诺葡萄 Frédéric 喜逐颜开。他说 : 在雨季前就进厂酿酒,酿出的红酒品质相当好。 霞多丽葡萄也是如此,所以其实整体而言,2007 年白中白香槟的品质都非常好。如果你了解我们 收获葡萄的过程,就知道收成与葡萄酒的品质是 相辅相成的。 」 由于提早收成,所以潜在的酒精度不是很 大约只落在 9.5%。 高, 比起一般的 10%到 10.5%, 葡萄的酸度保存完善,没有受到会损及酸度的高 「不出所料,2007 年的葡 温影响。Frédéric 说 : 萄酒清新鲜明。绿色的酒裙彷佛变成绿茶,还有 芬芳的草本风味,可谓佳酿。我经常将 Ruinart 香槟与勃艮第白葡萄酒相提并论,但 2007 年的 反而更像是夏布利白酒,更具特色,我想将来还 会有其他年份也是如此。 」 「 在 2007 年 早 期, 我 确 实 心 生 怀 疑。 那 是我的首酿,如果风味不佳,我就麻烦大了。 」 「但现在,我深感安慰。 」 Frédéric 微笑着摇头 : north to niseko

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高尔夫秘境

golfing in paradise Vivian Pun explores an elite resort that offers world-class golf in idyllic New Zealand surroundings.

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RESORT

KINLOCH MANOR & VILLAS provides a uniquely Kiwi luxury leisure escape. The dramatic complex, designed by Auckland-based architect Andrew Patterson, is a contemporary fantasy inspired by the romance of Scotland’s Kinloch Castle. The recreational centerpiece of the resort is The Kinloch Club, a Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course. This masterpiece designed by a legend of the golfing world is a tribute to the great links courses of the British Isles. It takes golfers on a challenging journey over undulating fairways and fast greens with exhilarating views across Lake Taupo’s sparkling waters. Director of Golf and PGA pro Tom Long, with years of experience and unsurpassed knowledge of the course, offers players a golden opportunity to expand their skills. His expert guidance leads them from the par-4 first hole, where favoring the fairway’s left side may prove advantageous, to the par-5 eighteenth hole, where an on-the-money tee shot is needed to finish in style. Golfers get off to a good start in the course’s well-appointed clubhouse and return to unwind in comfort. The casual Café, a gathering place for everything from a hearty breakfast to a light meal with wine, is the ideal spot for convivial postgame analysis over drinks and delicious seasonal fare. The resort’s Savour ‘K’ Fine Dining offers sophisticated cuisine in a setting of contemporary luxury defined by bold design and clean lines. Creations to delight the senses are prepared from peak seasonal ingredients organically grown on the property or carefully selected from local suppliers. The freshest seafood and hearty game from the owner’s estate is perfectly paired with New Zealand’s finest wines. Sumptuous guest accommodations mesh modern minimalism with the warmth and richness of baronial opulence. The one-bedroom Junior Suite features a king-size bed, oak flooring, a handmade New Zealand rug, and a large and luxurious bath. One- and two-bedroom/bath Villas also include laundry facilities, full kitchens, carbon-neutral fireplaces, furnished private terraces, and private courtyards for al fresco dining. Amenities include the Solar Spa, a secluded hideaway for soothing rejuvenation, as well as nearby adrenaline-rush activities like skiing on Mount Ruapehu, jet boating on Lake Taupo, and running the rapids of the Taupo basin.

俯瞰纽西兰陶波湖波光荡漾的湖面,这个顶 级度假村坐拥绝美秘境,同时也是世界级高 尔夫球场。 克洛赫庄园酒店为游客打造独树一格 的 纽 西 兰 顶 级 庄 园 体 验, 这 座 壮 丽 的 现 代 梦幻庄园是由旅居奥克兰的建筑师 Andrew Patterson 所设计,灵感来自于浪漫的苏格兰 金洛克城堡。 庄园中心是克洛赫俱乐部 – Jack Nicklaus 的名人签名设计球场,由 Jack Nicklaus 亲自 设计,以向不列颠群岛的林克斯球场致敬为 理念。高低起伏的球道以及快速滑球果岭让 击球更有挑战,而球客在大展身手的同时, 也徜徉在迷人的自然美景间,眺望下方闪着 粼粼水光的湛蓝湖面。 庄 园 的 高 尔 夫 与 PGA 锦 标 赛 赛 事 总 监

Tom Long 具备多年高球经验,对球场相当精 通娴熟,能帮助球客提升击球技巧,是增进 能力值的大好机会。他提供专业的引导与建 议,从中距离的第一洞开始,这里发球时最 好选择球道的左侧,一路到长距离的第十八 洞,此处球客的开球必须相当精准,才能为 整场球局画下完美句点。 一场舒适的高尔夫球之旅,从庄园内设 备齐全的高尔夫球俱乐部出发,最后球客再 返回俱乐部内享受放松惬意。气氛悠闲的咖 啡厅餐点一应俱全,无论是丰盛的早餐,或 是佐葡萄酒的轻食,适合各种聚会。球叙后 三五好友聚首,一边开怀畅饮、享用当令美食, 一边评析当日挥杆得失。 庄 园 内 的 高 级 餐 厅「Savour ‘K’ Fine Dining」提供当代奢华的深度美食,室内设计 风格十分大胆,线条简洁。料理食材来自庄 园内有机栽种的当令新鲜蔬果,或是精心挑 选的在地供应商食材,加上最鲜美的海产以 及庄园内的野禽野畜,搭配纽西兰最顶级的 葡萄酒。 华美的住宿套房结合现代的极简主义, 以及暖色调的奢华富丽风格。单卧室的豪华 套房配备一张特大床、橡木地板、手工纽西 兰地毯以及大型豪华浴缸。单卧室与双卧室 / 浴室的度假别墅内,还配有洗衣设施、设备 完整的厨房、碳平衡式壁炉,宾客更可在私 人露台与庭院享受户外用餐的乐趣。 客房设施包含太阳能水疗设备,宾客不 仅能在遗世独立的秘境享受一场放松水疗, 还能到不远处的鲁阿佩胡山体验刺激万分的 滑雪活动,或是到陶波湖搭喷射快艇体验极 速湍流。 north to niseko

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永续奢华

sustainable luxury Vivian Pun visits a setting of untouched New Zealand wilderness that offers tranquility, escape, and refreshment.

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树顶庄园旅舍创始人 John Sax 说,这座旅舍是旅程, 不是目的地。他称 : 「我们不只希望为旅客带来美好 的一天,还希望为旅客带来一趟愉悦的旅程。 」这就 是 John 的心愿,想为宾客献上鼓励、感动与创新。 宏伟华美的旅舍建于奥克兰和惠灵顿之间的北 岛中部,坐拥二百五十英亩犹如世外桃源般的新西 兰原始森林。旅舍位于著名的罗托鲁瓦地热区,而 附近的霍洛霍洛拥有丰富的原始毛利文化。坐落在 壮观地景之中,周围环绕着湍急的瀑布、壮丽的山 脉以及茂密的丛林,原始自然环境中还有着一座野 生动物保护区、四座湖泊和七条溪流。树顶庄园旅 舍带领宾客远离尘世的喧嚣,献上真切、原始、全 新的住宿体验。 树顶庄园旅舍有着新西兰最具永续性的建筑设 施,其豪华房型包括八座别墅、四间小屋、费热特 小屋和独家的主人度假房。质朴木材与石材的运用,

COURTESY OF TREETOPS LODGE & ESTATE (2)

ACCO R D I N G TO FO U N D E R J O H N SAX, Treetops Lodge & Estate is about the journey, not the destination. “We don’t just want you to have a great day,” he says, “we want you to continue a great journey.” And the one he has in mind for his guests is filled to overflowing with encouragement, inspiration, and rejuvenation. The magnificent property comprises twenty-five hundred acres of isolated native New Zealand forest in the Central North Island between Auckland and Wellington. The locale, in Horohoro near the famed Rotorua geothermal district, is rich in indigenous Māori culture. Perched on spectacular terrain, the lodge is surrounded by rushing waterfalls, imposing mountains, and pristine bushland lush with foliage. The untamed environment includes a game reserve, four lakes, and seven streams. Away from the tension and hurry of modern life, Treetops affords visitors an authentic, “unplugged,” and truly transformative experience.


RESORT

With the most sustainably built facilities in New Zealand, Treetops provides luxurious guest accommodations that include eight villas and four lodge rooms as well as Pheasant Cottage and the exclusive Owner’s Retreat. The contemporary design of the eco-style architecture is complemented by rustic timber and stone finishes. Custom wood furniture, fireplaces, and stone floors of the lodge are constructed from the property’s own resources. The warm ambience provides a perfect balance between a sense of open conviviality and a feeling of serene seclusion. Villas, hidden away in verdant native forest or looking out on crystal lakes, let guests commune with primordial nature while enjoying the most modern of comforts and conveniences, including a superking bed, spacious bathroom with spa bath, and a beautiful lounge with open fireplace. Elegant rooms in the main lodge offer super-king beds, large bathrooms, Wi-Fi, and easy access to a spacious shared kitchen. Pheasant Cottage, perfect for a gathering of family or friends, accommodates up to eight. The open plan with living room, kitchen, and dining area provides an ideal space for entertaining around the open fireplace or on the deck with a New Zealand barbeque. The Owner’s Retreat offers the lavish-lifestyle option of a four-room suite that beckons guests to escape from the world in indulgent luxury.

充分展现时尚的生态风建筑设计,山林小屋的定 制木质家具、壁炉和石板地也都是就地取材自旅 舍本身所拥有的资源。温馨氛围巧妙融合了欢乐 感与宁静的隐居感。 别墅隐藏在翠绿的原始森林中,俯视清澈湖 泊的美景,当宾客沉浸于原始自然之时,还能享 受到最现代化的舒适和便利,房间配套特大号床 铺、附水疗浴缸的宽敞浴室和镶着壁炉的别致起 居室。主楼中典雅的客房也提供特大号床铺、宽 阔大浴室和无线网络,以及便于宾客使用的公共 大厨房。 费热特小屋最多可容纳八人,十分适合家庭 或朋友聚会。小屋的开放式格局配有起居室、厨 房和饭厅,宾客可于开放式壁炉旁或烤肉台尽兴 娱乐。主人度假房提供四间套房的豪华选择,让 宾客远离纷扰、尽情享受奢华。 树顶庄园旅舍的时令美馔遵循「产地到餐桌」 的永续性理念,顶级有机农产品百分之百不含农 药,并以世界上最优质的青草喂养羊只和鹿群。 行政总厨 Filipe Ponce 使用最新鲜、直接取自产 地的当地食材创造出充满自然风味的完美用餐体 验。宾客可以一边享用餐前点心、开胃酒或啜饮


Outdoor encounters

Treetops Lodge & Estate’s seasonal cuisine follows a sustainable estate-to-plate philosophy. The premium organic produce is 100 percent pesticide free, and the property’s sheep and deer feast on some of the world’s highest-quality greens. Executive Chef Filipe Ponce prepares a superbly rustic dining experience by using only the freshest of these local ingredients sourced directly from the estate. Guests share their latest adventures while enjoying pre-dinner canapés and aperitifs or sipping mulled wine as they embrace the warmth and crackle of the lodge’s open stone fireplace. Treetops’ expert sommelier is on hand to help in selecting fine wines, from both New Zealand’s best vineyards and abroad, to accompany and complement the chef’s deliciously original dishes. A haven of rest and relaxation, Treetops Spa specializes in natural treatments and wellness, with every detail designed to revive and rejuvenate body and spirit. Guests may luxuriate in a private hot tub, share the experience in the couple’s suite, or find quiet and solitude on the meditation platform. Treetops also provides a range of stimulating outdoor encounters that encourage guests to unwind from the hectic pace of city life and reconnect with the natural world. Among them is outstanding trout fishing in the property’s seven streams and four lakes. Thirty-five miles of adventure trails open limitless opportunities for hiking and geocaching. Other fresh-air activities include mountain biking, horse trekking, caving, hunting, archery, and clay target shooting. Exciting guided safaris for observing and photographing the estate’s rich and varied wildlife are also available, as are cooking classes and an exploration of Māori art and culture. The kids program is full of fun and enrichment. For the ultimate in Treetops adventure, helicopter excursions are offered from the estate to The Kinloch Club, a Jack Nicklaus Signature Golf Course, and also to the live volcano on White Island in New Zealand’s Bay of Plenty.

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COURTESY OF TREETOPS LODGE & ESTATE (4)

各种户外活动


RESORT

Owner’s Retreat 闲适的室内空间

香料酒,一边分享最新的冒险故事,还可同时感受屋中石头

活动包括在七条溪流和四座湖泊中捕捞鳟鱼、在三十五英里

壁炉的温暖与柴烧声。庄园旅舍的专业侍酒师亦会随时献上

的探险小径健行、寻宝,享受无限乐趣。

新西兰国内外的精选葡萄酒,以完美搭配主厨的原创美味。

其他户外活动还包括登山自行车、骑马、洞穴探险、狩

树顶庄园旅舍的水疗中心是舒展身心的天堂,专门提供

猎、射箭和镖靶射击,以及令人兴奋的观光导览、拍摄庄园

自然疗法,重视修复身、心、灵的各个细节。宾客可选择在

内各种野生动物、烹饪课程和毛利文艺探索。孩子的活动也

私人热水浴池中恣意享受、在夫妻套房中分享体验,或在冥

都充满着欢乐趣味和丰富内涵。

想台静坐,寻求宁静与闲适。 树顶庄园旅舍亦提供一系列刺激的户外活动,鼓励客人 从忙碌的城市生活节奏中解脱出来,重新投入大自然的怀抱。

树顶庄园旅舍的终极冒险非直升机导览莫属,从庄园飞 过金洛克高尔夫球俱乐部、Jack Nicklaus 高尔夫球场,再到 新西兰丰盛湾白岛上的活火山,明媚风光,一览无遗。 north to niseko

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至臻飞行享受

flying high Air New Zealand’s award-winning Premium Economy class takes travelers to new heights of style and comfort.

FROM THE MOMENT flight attendants offer a warm Māori welcome of “kia ora,” passengers on Air New Zealand’s service from Hong Kong know they’re in for a different kind of flying experience. In fact, the airline’s Premium Economy class has been named Best Premium Economy 2019 by TripAdvisor’s Travellers’ Choice Awards. Decidedly more premium than economy, the class provides enhanced roominess, service, and amenities. The difference begins with Air New Zealand’s custom-designed seats in luxurious inkcolored leather. Their expansive forty-one-inch pitch and nine-inch recline offer more personal space. And generous five-inch-wide armrests, elevated leg rests, and extendable foot supports mean passengers can stretch out in ease on a relaxing flight above the clouds. Another standout is Premium Economy’s complimentary meals

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听到毛利语「kia ora」 ( 「你好」之意)时,从香港 搭上新西兰航空的旅客们已能预见一场不同于以 往的飞行旅程。事实上,新西兰航空的豪华经济舱 在猫途鹰 (TripAdvisor) 旅游精华奖名单上,夺得

2019 年最佳豪华经济舱的头衔。 既然是豪华,当然要比经济舱更高级,从空 间、服务到设备都全面升级。座椅采用奢华不凡的 客制化墨黑色皮革座椅。座位间距足有四十一吋, 倾斜度更可达九吋,确保有足够的私人空间。大 气的五吋宽扶手、加高的腿托,以及可伸缩的脚撑, 让顾客能舒适的伸展,徜徉在云端之上。 另一项特色便是舱内的免费餐点与饮料。未 到新西兰,便能尝到最棒的新西兰现代风料理与美


TRAVEL

and drinks, offering the best of New Zealand food and wine with a deliciously modern twist. The menu, designed by award-winning consultant chef Peter Gordon, reflects his Māori heritage and world travels. Dinner begins with an appealing starter, such as smoked trout with roasted beets. Accompanying are fresh bakery selections like farmhouse marble rye and rosemary focaccia rolls. Next comes a choice of such delectable mains as herb-crusted salmon with grilled courgettes and capers or slow-cooked beef daube with wild mushroom sauce. Finishing on a sweet note are irresistibles like passion fruit mousse with mango sauce. Complementing the cuisine is a range of premium New Zealand wines selected by an expert panel of consultants. The extensive list features some of the country’s most awarded winemakers and favorite varietals. Inflight entertainment includes more than seventeen hundred hours of the latest movies, TV box sets, video games, and a kids section, presented in widescreen on a personal touch screen. And, of course, USB and iPod connections are available in every seat. With amenities like premium check-in and a baggage allowance of two carry-ons and two checked bags, Premium Economy is just one more example of how Air New Zealand, serving Hong Kong for nearly fifty years, continues to offer the best in air travel, delivered with authentic Kiwi spirit.

酒。获奖无数的 Peter Gordon 主厨负责设计与 监制菜单,呈现的每道美食均糅合了他的毛利背 景及旅游经历。正常的晚餐流程将先由诱人的开 胃菜打头阵,例如烤甜菜佐烟熏鳟鱼。一旁搭配 的新鲜烘焙品如农家混麦面包、迷迭香佛卡夏卷 也不容小觑。再来主菜就由一系列美味无比的料 理挑起大任,其中包括刺山柑西葫芦佐香草烤鲑 鱼,或是野菇酱佐慢煮炖牛肉等。最后以令人难 以抗拒的香甜芒果酱百香果慕斯画下美味句点。 由专家讨论选出的一系列新西兰葡萄酒, 是机上美食的最佳拍档。酒单上收录了著名新西 兰酿酒厂的杰出之作,以及受人盛赞的葡萄品种 葡萄酒。 吃饱喝足后,只需点击座位前方每人一台 的宽触控屏幕,旅客就能享受超过一千七百小时 的最新电影、电视剧集、电玩及孩童类别影片。 当然,USB 及 iPod 插孔也是每座的标准配备。 除了以客为尊的登机报到手续,每人还能 托运及手提各两件行李。新西兰航空在香港耕耘 近五十年,豪华经济舱服务只不过是回馈的其中 一项而已,往后将继续努力不懈地在平流层之上, 提供最具新西兰风情的飞行体验。

Great food, friendly service, and plenty of room 精致的餐饮,友善的服务和宽敞的空间 north to niseko

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PRESENTED BY NISEKO BI-ON

← Naoki Matsuoka ↓ Acqua pazza 意式水煮鱼

雪飘「意」味

niseko goes italian Authentic firewood cuisine comes to the heart of Hokkaido’s famous snow country.

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比罗夫是日本著名新雪谷滑雪度假胜地的最大度假村。新雪谷 「美音」餐厅坐落于此,餐厅菜单结合世界两大料理菜系,十 分引人注目。餐厅是在 2017 年由老板西村利男开设,网罗顶 级的意大利进口食材,加上北海道最优质的肉类、海鲜和时令 蔬菜,打造独具风格的意大利烧烤特色菜单。 餐厅内的温暖氛围和开放式厨房,让人不禁想与「美音」 的天才主厨 Naoki Matsuoka 多聊几句。他的学艺足迹走过意 大利、法国、新加坡和东京,不过他觉得母亲才是对他烹饪哲 学的最初和最大的影响因素。 对于 Naoki 来说,主厨首先需要的是「遇事好问、精益求 精和顾客至上的态度」 。他的目标是利用手边的最好食材,以 日本传统烹饪艺术来提升举世无双的意大利料理。 新雪谷「美音」餐厅的开胃菜包括新鲜的北海道牡蛎生鱼 片、青森鲔鱼腹生鱼片、西北海道海胆等在地珍馐,以及意大 利水牛奶酪和帕尔马火腿等意大利人气美食。 主菜从北海道和牛牛排到柴烤战斧牛排,再到北海道烤猪 肉卷,应有尽有,佐上自制面包和新鲜时令蔬菜,并搭配精心 挑选的意大利和法国葡萄酒。最后,主厨端出令人难以抗拒的 抹茶提拉米苏,为用餐画下美好句点,完美体现新雪谷「美音」 餐厅融合两国烹饪精髓的精神。

AARON JAMIESON (2)

NESTLED IN HIRAFU, the largest village in Japan’s renowned Niseko ski resort, is Niseko Bi-on, a remarkable restaurant that unites two of the world’s great cuisines. Opened in 2017 by owner Tony Nishimura, Niseko Bi-on sources both the finest Italian imports and the best of Hokkaido’s bounty of premium meats, seafood, and seasonal vegetables to create its signature menu of Italian barbecue-style specialties. The restaurant’s warm ambience and open kitchen foster interaction with Bi-on’s talented chef, Naoki Matsuoka. Trained in Italy, France, Singapore, and Tokyo, he credits his mother as the biggest influence on his cooking style, which, he says, has become simpler and more ingredient-focused over time. For Matsuoka, a chef requires above all “an inquiring mind, constant improvement, and a guest-first attitude.” His goal, he says, is to use the best available products to deliver exceptional Italian cuisine enhanced with traditional Japanese culinary art. Niseko Bi-on’s starters include local delicacies like Fresh Hokkaido Oysters Sashimi, Aomori Fatty Tuna Sashimi, and Western Hokkaido Sea Urchin as well as Italian favorites like Italian Buffalo Mozzarella and Parma Prosciutto. Main dishes, served with homemade bread and fresh seasonal vegetables, range from Hokkaido Wagyu Steak to Firewood-Grilled Tomahawk Steak to Roasted Rolled Porchetta from Hokkaido, all of which pair beautifully with selections from a carefully curated list of Italian and French wines. For a perfect ending, nothing epitomizes Niseko Bi-on’s dual culinary inspirations better than the chef’s irresistible Matcha Tiramisu.


PRO J ECT M A N A G E M E N T & D E V E L O P M E N T SERVI CES | REA L ESTA TE SA L ES | H O L I DA Y A C C OM MODATION

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An abundant natural beauty, Niseko is elevated by Hokkaido Tracks stunning property portfolio and 18 year journey in the region. Years of play, growing relationships, building and learning has been driven by a passion to share what we love. Whether you are looking to build a custom home, invest in real estate, or relax and unwind on a refreshing holiday escape – let us accommodate you on your journey.

Get in Touch Today: www.hokkaidotracksaccommodation.com www.instagram.com/hokkaido_tracks book@hokkaidotracks.com

A welcome gift for Tasting Kitchen readers*: Mention code #TKHT when booking a holiday with us this winter and receive a complimentary breakfast pack valued at ¥7,000 on the day of your arrival. *Valid for dates November 23, 2019 – April 30, 2020. Minimum 3 night stay.


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$360 $270 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS NISEKO An Dining Modern Japanese Lobby, Ki Niseko, 183-43 Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 22 5151 Breakfast: 07:00-10:00; Lunch: 11:30-15:00; Dinner: 17:30-21:30 5

Bi-on 美音 Italian firewood cuisine 83-120 Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 55 8739 17:00-23:00 5

Green Farm Cafe Cafe 190-4 Shiki Niseko, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 23 3354 07:00-17:00 5

HakuSteak 白鸟牛排馆 Steakhouse 183-38 Yamada Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 386 66 2849 18:00-22:00 5

Kamimura French First Floor, Shiki Niseko, 190-4 Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 212 288 Summer: Open Fri & Sat only Lunch: from 12:00; Dinner: from 18:00 Winter: Open Mon thru Sat Dinner: from 18:00 5

Niseko Ramen Kazahana

Prativo Buffet 888-1 Aza Soga, Niseko, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 55 8852 Lunch: 11:00-16:00 Dinner: 18:00-21:30 5

Robata Niseko Naniwatei Japanese Huckleberry Farm 259 Aza Kabayama, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 22 3388 Summer: Lunch: 11:30-14:30; Dinner: 17:00-22:00 Closed on Thursdays and Fridays Winter: Dinner: 18:00-22:30 5

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Somoza

Toshiro’s Bar

Modern Hokkaido cuisine 78-5 Hanazono, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 55 8741 Summer: Lunch: 12:00-16:00 Winter: Lunch: 12:00-16:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:00 (winter only)

Bar 2F, J-Sekka, 167-3 Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 23 3377 Winter: 17:00-01:00

Temporada

5

5

Modern Tapas Dining 190-4, Abuta-gun, Kutchan, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 55 6886 17:00-22:00

5

5

Tsubara Tsubara Japanese 132-14 Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 23 1116 Lunch: 11:30-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-21:00

Teuchi-Soba Ichimura Soba 68-4 Aza-Yamada, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 23 0603 11:00-15:00 5

DAVID HARTUNG

Ramen Yamada 179-36, Kutchan, Abuta, Hokkaido, Japan q +81 136 23 3444 Winter: Lunch: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 17:30-21:30 5


RESTAURANT LISTINGS 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA Italian Shop 202, Landmark Alexandra, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环遮打道16-20号历山大厦2楼202 q +852 2537 8859 Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:30-22:30 (Closed on Sundays) A Smart Casual 5

Caprice French 6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong 中国香港中环金融街 8 号香港四季酒店6楼 q +852 3196 8860 Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:30-22:30 A Smart casual 5

Daigo by Mori Tomoaki 醍醐 Sichuan Moon 川江月

Kinloch Manor & Villas 克洛赫庄园酒店 5

Sichuan Cuisine North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路 永利皇宮北名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663 17:30-23:00 (Closed on Wednesdays) A Casual elegant. Children aged 10 and above are welcome. 5

261 Kinloch Road, Kinloch, Taupo 3377, New Zealand

q + 64 7 377 8482

Peter: The Bar

Ensue New Napa Cuisine 40F, Futian Shangri-La Hotel, 4088 Yitian Rd, Futian District, Shenzhen, Guangdong, China 中国广东福田区益田路4088号 福田香格里拉大酒店40-41楼 q +86 188 2343 7333 17:30-23:00 (Closed on Mondays) 5

Grill 58

5

Bar Level 24, The Peninsula Tokyo, 1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, Japan

q +81 362 70 2763

12:00-01:00

Restaurant Petrus 珀翠餐厅 5

French Level 56, Island Shangri-La Hong Kong,

盛焰 Western grill and teppanyaki Ground floor mezzanine, MGM COTAI, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路美狮美高梅GM 层 q +853 8806 2318 Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual 5

Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中区法院道太古广场港岛香格里拉大酒 店56楼 q +852 2820 8590

Lunch: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:30-23:00 A Smart casual – Covered shoes, shirt with

The Krug Room 库克厅 Modern Seasonal Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东方酒店 q +852 2825 4014 Individual Bookings: Thu & Sat: 19:30; Privatizations: Mon-Sat: 19:30 (Closed on Sundays) A Ladies are requested to wear elegant attire and proper footwear. Gentlemen are kindly asked to wear a smart shirt, long trousers and closed-toe shoes. 5

Hung Tong

sleeves and appropriate trousers for

VEA Restaurant & Lounge

红糖

gentlemen. Torn/ripped jeans, sports shoes,

5

Contemporary Chinese q +852 2252 5278 Level 7, Kerry Hotel Hong Kong, 38 Hung Luen Road, Hung Hom Bay, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙红磡湾红鸾道38号 香港嘉里酒店7楼

tracksuits and t-shirts are not allowed.

5

Lunch: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:30

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Treetops Lodge & Estate 树顶庄园旅舍 351 Kearoa Road, RD1, Horohoro, Rotorua, New Zealand q +64 7 333 2066

Innovative Chinese-French 29/F-30/F, The Wellington, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街198号 The Wellington 29及30楼 q +852 2711 8639 29F: 17:00-01:00; 30F: 18:45-00:00 (Closed on Sundays) A Smart casual

DAVID HARTUNG

Sushi G/F, 29-31 Bridges Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环必列者士街29-31号地下 q +852 2979 5977 Lunch: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 19:00-22:30 (Closed on Sundays) 5


DESSERT

Taking delicious advantage of Niseko’s bounty of fresh produce, Somoza creates seasonal menus that show off local ingredients. This eminently Instagrammable dessert, recently on the menu, features the rather rare haskap berry, known for intense flavor and bright acidity. It is complemented by simple puff pastry, honey, and ice cream made with lavender from a farm just a stone’s throw away.

DAVID HARTUNG

「Somoza」餐厅利用新雪谷的各种新鲜农产品,打造时令菜单,展示当地食材的独特品质。这 款适合打卡的甜点,便特别选用了以强烈的风味和酸度而闻名的蓝靛果,配搭简单的酥皮、蜂 蜜和薰衣草制成的冰淇淋,其中的薰衣草来自仅距餐厅一步之遥的农场。

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TK43 North to Niseko  

TK has been honored to collaborate with the Niseko Tourism Board in creating North to Niseko, this special issue to be distributed at the re...

TK43 North to Niseko  

TK has been honored to collaborate with the Niseko Tourism Board in creating North to Niseko, this special issue to be distributed at the re...