TK41 Roads to Siam

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T A S T I N G 41

R O A D S

K I T C H E N T O

S I A M

MACAU

Deconstructing Thai 泰味揭秘 BANGKOK

The Timelessness of Thai 经典不朽

HONG KONG

The Bangkok Feel 曼谷情怀

WE WEDIDN’T DIDN’TINVENT INVENT THE THEMARGARITA MARGARITA Every Every margarita margarita deserves deserves the world’s the world’s finest finest tequila. tequila.

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STARTER

Executive Chef Pim Techamuanvivit of nahm delights guests with a pair of complementary – and complimentary – snacks. Her menu commences with a savory wafer colored by coconut ash and stuffed with prawn and coconut. At meal’s end, diners are presented a sweet wafer filled with “golden threads,” a popular Thai dessert made by drizzling egg yolk into boiling syrup. 「nahm」餐厅主厨 Pim Techamuanvivit 为客人精心准备了餐前及餐后小点。以椰 子灰染色的美味薄餅作为整顿饭的前奏，内里包裹著鲜虾和椰肉。终曲则是风行泰

DAVID HARTUNG

，填满香甜的威化饼。 国的甜点，这是将蛋黄倒进沸騰的糖漿中制成一条条「金线」

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T A S T I N G 41

K I T C H E N

R O A D S

T O

S I A M

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

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Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

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Monnipa Rungthong, head chef of Saffron at Banyan Tree Macau, presents her heavenly dessert from the Land of Smiles. A Thai classic, khao niaow ma muang is made with glutinous sticky rice that is seasoned with salty-sweet coconut milk and served with fragrant pieces of tender mango. Pandan leaf and hibiscus add tropical flavor. 澳门悦榕庄「尚坊」主厨Monnipa Rungthong带来 微笑之国的传统甜点代表 - 芒果糯米饭。以咸甜椰 奶调味的香软糯米饭，配上多汁香甜的熟芒果，放 在班兰叶上并配以朱槿花点缀，倍添热带风味。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2019 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

This issue, Roads to Siam, is about artists and chefs and restaurateurs, creators who have followed a diversity of paths but who share a common inspiration: the endlessly fascinating country of Thailand.

We start with a Bangkok ceramist whose layered designs, hypnotic and calming, are influenced by Buddhist meditation. Another Thai artist challenges the country’s established social and political systems, often through provocatively symbol-laden paintings of fruit.

In videos with Technicolor backgrounds, a Bangkok-based performance artist makes serious points about the value of human labor.

And HK-based Master of Wine Sarah Heller shares a visual tasting note on an unusual wine made three hours northeast of Bangkok.

When illustrious chef Gaggan Anand came to Thailand more than a decade ago, he could hardly have foreseen opening a progressive Indian restaurant, Gaggan, that would be named best in Asia four years in a row.

Now that it has become an icon – one set to close next year – the media focus has shifted to some of his other recent projects.

These have included backing talented sous chefs who have left Gaggan to embark on ventures of their own. And he and his wife, Tripradap Anand, have launched restaurant Mihara Tofuten Bangkok following a fortuitous trip to Japan several years ago that opened their eyes to the magnificent potential of tofu.

Next door to Gaggan is Wet, a new wine bar run by the restaurant’s head sommelier, who shares his thoughts on the bar’s concept of natural wines paired with Gaggan soul food.

Across from Gaggan is Gaa, helmed by Garima Arora, who briefly worked with Anand and was recently named Asia’s best female chef. Her modern cuisine combines the spirit of Indian gastronomy with the science of negative food pairings, magically bringing disparate flavors together to create dishes that surprise and delight.

While Macau may seem an unlikely spot for authentic Thai cuisine, the city is home to several world-class Thai chefs who import their fresh ingredients from Bangkok. The head chef of Saffron at Banyan Tree Macau leads us on a deep dive into two of the country’s quintessential dishes.

We hope this issue, through the food, the art, and the people you’ll find here, will inspire you to travel down any number of the many intriguing Roads to Siam.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12 Meditations in Clay • 16 The Art of Questioning • 20 Art of Work • 22 Tropical Syrah 24 From Adversity to Wonder • 28 The Bangkok Feel • 34 True to Thai • 40 Real Thai • 44 Deconstructing Thai 56 The Power of Negative Pairing • 64 Transcendent Possibilities • 72 Taking Thai Modern • 78 The Height of Cool 82 The Essence of Thai • 86 Sharing Its Treasures • 88 Pursuing a Beautiful Balance • 92 Dynastically Delicious

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52 The Timelessness of Thai • 96 Call of Nature 98 The Best in Macau • 102 June Wedding 108 L I S T I N G S • 112 D E S S E R T

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INSPIRED LIVING

陶土之思

meditations in clay A Thai ceramic artist creates vessels inspired by Buddhist contemplative practice and the measured pace of pottery making.

ASPIRING CERAMIST Aor Sutthiprapha was finally set on her path to creative enlightenment through an encounter she had with meditation before visiting a friend who had recently become a Buddhist monk.

The first hints, however, of the importance of calm and quiet in her work had appeared earlier, during her studies for a master’s degree at HDK - Academy of Design and Crafts in Sweden. “Despite the quiet,” she says, “I was happy working in the studio for very long hours.

I never once became bored or lonely and I began to wonder why.”

It was this question she took with her to her first seven-day course in meditation, a requirement for anyone wishing to pay a visit to the order of monks her friend had joined. After participating in the process of looking inward, Sutthiprapha found uncanny similarities between the endless practice needed to achieve a serene meditative state and the repetitive, disciplined

This Too Shall Pass – Red

Aor Sutthiprapha 是一位胸怀大志 的陶艺师。她曾在拜访一名刚成为 和尚的朋友之前，尝试进行冥想， 而这特别的经验，让她的创作之心 茅塞顿开。然而，她作品中强调的 平和、安详风格，在她攻读瑞典哥 德堡大学设计与工艺学院硕士学位 时，已可窥知一二。她说 ： 「虽然 清淡，我却还是乐在其中，在工作 室待上好几个小时从不嫌无聊孤 单，于是我开始探究其因。 」 参观友人的修道会前，她必须 先练习冥想，参加共七天的课程， 而冥想过程中她便问自己，为何能 甘之如饴。透过省思训练，Aor 发 现要达到冥想状态所需的无尽练 习，与制陶过程中反覆不断的严谨 操作，有着惊人的相似之处。她解

pursuit of pottery making. “The method of meditation is about refining your mind,” she explains. “You get rid of anything unnecessary, and your life becomes easier. I found this very helpful.”

Born in Bangkok and now living and practicing there, Sutthiprapha has worked tirelessly over the past decade to both deepen her understanding of meditation and refine her ceramics skills. Before deciding on career as a ceramic artist, Sutthiprapha worked in product and graphic design and even did a stint in marketing. It was only when she took a job as assistant to her ceramics professor at the Thai university where she completed her undergraduate studies in industrial design that she started on her path to Sweden and her future as a potter.

After graduating from HDK , the multi-awardwinning artist released her first series, Weaving Indigo , to much acclaim in 2011 and 2013. In these works, her

释： 「冥想的方式就是不断理清自 我，排除心中杂物，生命因而轻盈。 我获益匪浅。 」

Aor 生于曼谷，如今回乡工作 生活，十年来孜孜不倦地深化对冥 想的理解，亦不断精进自己的陶艺。 踏上陶瓷艺术家之路前，她曾投入 过产品平面设计，甚至从事过一阵 子行销。直到在她完成工业设计本 科研究的泰国某大学担任陶艺教授 助理时，她才算是将瑞典行及陶艺 师生涯，正式列入人生清单。 在 哥 德 堡 大 学 毕 业 后， 屡 获 殊荣的她推出了初试啼声的作品集 「靛蓝交织」 ，在 2011 年与 2013 年 大获好评。这些看似朴实、简约的 作品，巧妙地抓住众人的目光、引 人深思。蚀刻表面的冷蓝色陶瓷圆

COURTESY OF AOR SUTTHIPRAPHA (3)

From the series Internal Dialogue – Transition No. 1 (2017)

From the series Weaving Indigo (2013) roads to siam

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COURTESY OF AOR SUTTHIPRAPHA (2)

INSPIRED LIVING

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Food for body, Food for soul (2016) ←

Kuro – On Cloud (2013)

spare, deceptively simple style subtly captivates the eye and intrigues the mind. The etched surfaces of the calm blue porcelain cylinders more closely resemble fabric than clay. Her method over the years since then has changed little. Taking about a week to produce a single hand-thrown piece, she creates multiple layers with combinations of various colored clays.

Before and after firing, Sutthiprapha painstakingly buffs each piece using sandpaper of increasing fineness to produce her signature silky-smooth finish. She polishes until the porcelain becomes, she says, almost like glass.

“The repetition just happens through me. If you work simply, along the way the surface will express itself, and somehow your identity will shine through.”

Sutthiprapha’s oeuvre includes commissions of geometric teacups for international exhibitions, innovative tableware for restaurants and cafés, outlier series produced during artist residencies, and even 120 olive-tree planters for the garden of a luxury Thai home. But her true calling remains her ongoing Internal Dialogue series, which continues her earlier explorations in Weaving Indigo . “Every time I make a work, I improve it,” she says, “but you can only see the details change little by little between each series.”

In her upcoming solo exhibition, to be held in September at Bangkok-based Serindia Gallery, Sutthiprapha will be nudging her works another generation forward. The yet-to-be-named series will plumb the often-obscure depths of the inner psyche through cylinders that seem to be coming apart, rippling and overlapping to form knot-like structures. “For me,” she says, “making ceramics requires a lifetime of learning. It’s a really slow process. When I moved from design to craft, people kept telling me to change my style. But I don’t consider my work to be design. It’s more than that – it’s my practice.”

筒 体， 乍 看 酷 似 布 料 而 非 陶 土。 多年来，她的制陶哲学始终如一， 鲜有改变。单个手捏作品就耗时 近 一 周， 利 用 颜 色 相 异 的 陶 土， 层次交叠，始得完成。 入窑前后，Aor 都会小心翼 翼地将每个作品以砂纸抛光，务 求成品带有她招牌的丝绸般质地。 反覆研磨直到陶瓷表面变为她所 说的「玻璃」质感。 「透过双手自 然练磨。朴实无奇的过程，能让 作品表面透出独一无二的色彩， 作者的性格也崭露无遗。 」她说。

Aor 的作品繁多，其中包括 为国际展特制的几何茶杯、为餐 厅及咖啡馆订做的独特餐具、外 出露宿时创作的番外系列，甚至 包括专为泰国豪宅庭院设计的

120 座橄榄树盆。但最能代表她 个人特色的，还是进行中的「内 心对话」系列， 延续了「靛蓝交织」 的艺术探索。她说 ： 「创作总是越 做越好，每个系列之间，都会看 到一小步一小步的缓慢精进。 」 今年九月于曼谷 Serindia 艺 廊举办的个人展中，Aor 将展示 更具深度的作品。尚未命名的系 列，将透过看似破裂、摆动、交 叠的圆柱体，组成绳结般的结构， 探究人类心理中深层的模糊概念。 她说 ： 「对我来说，制陶是一生的 课题，而过程非常缓慢。当年我 从平面设计转到工艺制作时，人 们总告诉我得改变风格。可惜我 从来不将作品视为设计风格。或 者说，那更是我的人生历练。 」

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画中有话

the art of questioning A Thai artist, often using coded images of food, explores sensitive issues of politics and society.

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Mythology no.1 (2011)

WIT TAWAT TONGKEAW is obsessed with leading his audiences to

屡获殊荣的艺术家 Wittawat Tongkeaw 热

the truth. The award-winning artist has built his reputation on astutely observing and pointedly challenging his home country’s social and political establishments by means of a wry fruit salad of symbolism and in-jokes.

Born in 1974, Tongkeaw, who studied painting at Silpakorn University in Bangkok, was inspired by his father’s passion for photography to pursue an art education, despite its being considered an uncertain path. Although he began as a talented landscape painter, the nature of his oeuvre has shifted in recent years.

Today, he is known for his hyperrealistic paintings and also for stunningly subversive sculpture, installation, and video works, all of which feature a signature mix of allegory and sardonic wit.

While many have understandably chosen to avoid Thailand’s tumultuous political landscape of the past decade, Tongkeaw has been driven to take stock of its effects on society through research and conversation with leading academics and affected communities. “People who do not receive justice in this society,” he says, “are driving me to create works of art in order to question the root of hidden problems. The more that thoughts are prohibited and controlled, the more people will struggle and fight. This is a driving force for my creativity.”

In many ways, Tongkeaw’s works embody a kind of positive subterfuge: the riddles concealed within them allow the artist to bypass social convention and censorship, delivering meaning to an audience that has become skilled at deciphering the subtle intent. “There are some things you cannot say in this sensitive situation in Thailand,” he says, “so my works are full of symbolic systems that represent something people don’t have permission to talk about.”

衷于引导观众去面对真相。他对泰国国内

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的社会、政治体制作出敏锐的观察和尖锐的挑战，用奇 异的水果沙拉画作来表现象征主义和隐喻玩笑。这种创 作风格使他闻名于世。

Wittawat 出生于 1974 年，曾在曼谷的泰国艺术大 学学习绘画。尽管当时艺术教育行业可谓「前途未卜」 ， 他仍在热爱摄影的父亲启蒙之下，开始投身艺术教育。 起初，他十分擅长于风景画创作，但近年的作品风格有 了改变，现在他以超现实主义绘画、令人震惊的颠覆性 雕塑、装置和影视创作而著称，作品中隐含寓言和机智 的讽刺意味。 泰国过去十年政治局势动荡。当许多人选择逃避时， 展开研讨与对话。他说 ： 「那些在这个社会中没有获得正 义的人们，促使我创作，激发我用作品去直视问题的根 源。当更多的思想被禁止和管控，就会有更多的人们选 择挣扎和反抗，这就是我创作的驱动力。 」 在许多方面，Wittawat 的作品虽正面却暗藏奸诡寓 意 ：作品的隐喻使艺术家得以规避社会习俗和审查制度， 又能让懂得破译作品的观众会心一笑。他说 ： 「在如此敏 感的时间点，人人噤若寒蝉，而我的作品充满象征意味， 诉说大众无法公开谈论的议题。 」 最近由曼谷 SAC 画廊主办的两个展览中，2014 年

COURTESY SAC GALLERY (2 + PRECEDING PAGE )

Wittawat 却选择身先士卒，与学界先贤和受冲击的团体

FOOD & ART

In two recent exhibitions hosted by Bangkok’s SAC Gallery, Mythical Reality in 2014 and Prelude in 2018, the artist exploits the Thai penchant for linking the names of foods to hidden meanings in order to conceal the true intent of a conversation. For example, “pizza” has come to be a disguised reference to section 112 of the Thai criminal code, which threatens imprisonment for defaming the royal family, because 112 is similar to the hotline delivery number of the country’s largest pizza chain. Viewers are left free to interpret the pizza featured in Tongkeaw’s Durian and Pizza, an evolving work begun in 2016, as just such a provocative allusion.

In his installations, Tongkeaw takes the symbolism a step further, encouraging his audiences to physically consume food while at the same time digesting the hidden political meanings. “When a creative work can aid people in the society who are in trouble,” he says, “or give them the power to fight obstacles, or help those who are afraid to get up and do something, or encourage people to question the power that dominates Thai society, that makes me proud of my art.”

的「神话现实」和 2018 年的「前奏」 ，Wittawat 利用泰国的政治倾向，通过牵系食物名称与隐藏意 义来掩盖对话背后的真实意图。例如， 「披萨」影 射了泰国刑法中第 112 条，因为该条款言明若意图 诽谤王室将遭致监禁，而 112 正是泰国国内最大披 萨连锁店的外送号码，观众可以自由地解读他作 品「榴莲与披萨」中的披萨，这一创作从 2016 年 开始就持续不断的发酵，带有一种挑衅意味十足的 暗示。

Wittawat 装置艺术中的象征主义更加鲜明， 提醒大众在进食、消化食物的同时，也要消化生活 中隐藏的政治意义。他表示 ： 「这项富有创造性的 工作可以帮助到社会中有困难的人，激发出他们抵 挡阻碍的力量，激励到惧怕起身打拼的人，或鼓励

Durian and Pizza (2016)

人们质疑这主宰泰国社会的权力。我 为自己的艺术感到自豪。 」

FOOD & ART

劳动艺术

art of work In videos that are feats of physical endurance, an artist challenges viewers to consider the arduous labor behind everyday acts of consumption.

AUSTRALIAN-THAI PERFORMANCE artist Kawita Vatanajyankur contorts her body into deceptively upbeat mimicries of mundane human work in video vignettes that at once repel the gaze and compel the observer to continue looking. Over the past half decade, she has transformed herself into such functional objects as a mop being dunked into a bucket, laundry being tossed into a basket, a loom, and the arms of a scale at a produce market.

As the daughter of a successful production company head, Vatanajyankur, who grew up in Thailand and Australia, spent her childhood surrounded by the world of advertising, films, and art. It wasn’t a surprise that she decided to pursue a BFA in painting at RMIT University in Melbourne. Today, her brush-and-canvas background is apparent in the candy-colored but painstakingly constructed video pieces she conceives.

“My performance videos question the impact of human consumption on human rights,” she says. “I want the work to look sugar-coated, like a billboard or ad poster, while the action tells the truth behind the illusion.” Although portrayed in moving images, the action is subdued.

What movement there is – her body swinging or being thrown, pieces

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澳泰混血行为艺术家 Kawita Vatanajyankur 将身 体摆设成看似欢快的日常工作样貌，小小一段影 片，让人想别过头去，却又移不开目光。五年来， 她不断将自己化成实用的生活用品，有时是桶子 里的一支拖把，有时是篮子中的一团衣物，有些 时候是织布机，或是市集上的天秤双臂。 身为龙头生产商的千金，Kawita 在澳洲及泰 国两地长大，从小就活在广告、电影、艺术的世 界，因此决定考取墨尔本皇家理工大学绘画艺术 学士也是顺理成章。如今从影片中，她的绘画功 力透过色彩缤纷又精心设计的作品展露无遗。 她说 ： 「我的表演影片质疑了当代日常消费对 人权造成的冲击，我希望作品的外表看起来甜美 诱人，像张告示牌或广告海报，而随着影片进行， 观众才会发现错觉背后的真相。 」尽管作品以影片 呈现，却悄无声息 ：影片中只能看到她整个人荡 来荡去，或是从一边被丢到另一边，有的是从果 篮中掉下的水果砸在她身上，还有的是她的脸化 成削冰机，从冰块上刨下片片冰花，这些动作都

COURTESY OF KAWITA VATANA JYANKUR (2)

of fruit dropping on her from out of frame, her face shaving fragments from a large block of ice – is carefully rehearsed. Editing a single video can take weeks.

In The Scale , the artist, in a yoga-like pose, balances a plastic box on her feet as watermelon chunks are thrown into it from above. In Squeezers , she juices an orange with her mouth while simultaneously becoming the overflowing receptacle. In works such as these, Vatanajyankur is asking her audience to consider the people who work difficult jobs to bring displays of fruit or packaged foods to the market. “By realizing the hard and repetitive work of these laborers,” she explains, “and not thinking of them as mere tools or machines that produce the food we eat, I hope the audience will think about how they may be complicit in human rights and labor violations, like those in the fishing and agricultural sectors.”

Vatanajyankur, a self-proclaimed “contemporary feminist artist,” is at the core a humanitarian. Concerned not only with the issues of gender inequality apparent in her focus on so-called “women’s work,” she seeks to create art that shines a light on the broader abuse of human rights: “My work suggests that, no matter their beliefs, backgrounds, genders, positions, or place in society, we should respect others for who they are.”

需要细心排练。有时剪辑一段影片就需要花上 好几星期。在作品「磅秤」中，她用瑜珈般的 姿势倒立着，双脚捧着一个塑胶篮，此时一块 块西瓜就从上方不断砸下、砸进篮中。「榨汁 机」中，她则用嘴巴榨橘子汁，化身为满溢汤 汁的容器。Kawita 希望透过这类作品，让这些 辛勤工作、为市集带来一箱箱水果、食物的劳 动者日常，引发观众反思。她解释 ： 「透过一 睹这些工人们每天付出的艰苦劳力，不将他们 仅仅视为工具或制造食物的机器，我希望人们 能意识到，自己也许是农业、渔业中，常见的 藐视人权与劳动剥削的共犯。 」 自诩为「当代女权主义艺术家」的 Kawita， 其实骨子里也是个人道主义者。她不仅关注领 域中的「女权追求」 ，尝试破除性别不平等问 题，也利用艺术作品，将日渐严重的罔顾人权 「我的作品想 现象，展现在世人面前。 她说 ： 表达，不论其信仰、背景、性别、职业、社会 地位，只要忠于自我，都值得被尊重。 」 roads to siam

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热带西拉

tropical syrah

说到葡萄藤，位处热带气候区的泰国在葡萄 酒爱好者心中并非首选，因这里普遍被认为 没有栽种所需的条件。不过这种先入为主的 想法，在这个蕴藏多元地理环境的微笑国度

One of Thailand’s leading wineries grows its grapes beside a lush national park.

COLUMN AND ART BY SARAH HELLER

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T R O P I C A L T H A I L A N D may not be the

first destination that comes to a wine lover’s mind as a promising spot for the vine, but such preconceptions belie the sheer diversity of landscapes across the Land of Smiles.

While the northern reaches of the country have higher elevations and a more temperate climate than the sandy coastlines of the south, one hub of quality wine production lies a lot closer to the capital than you might expect. Khao Yai National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a pocket of high-altitude respite that’s a mere three hours’ drive northeast of Bangkok.

Famed for its abundant flowers, it is now also known to the Asian wine elite as the next-door neighbor of GranMonte, arguably Thailand’s most promising wine producer.

GranMonte The Orient Syrah is the winery’s ambitious take on the variety.

Aged in French and American oak, it entices with a spicy, pepper-and-anise fragrance.

Dense, dark-purple fruit gives way to sweet dill on the finish.Throughout, it shows an angular, solid frame with bold, firmly constructed tannins.

中可是行不通的。 一般来说，泰国北部地区地势较高，气 候比起以砂质海岸线为主的南部来得温和， 但当地高品质葡萄酒酿酒厂 GranMonte 的庄 园却座落在离首都不远处的考艾国家公园附 近。这座被联合国教科文组织列为文化遗产 的公园位处高地，从曼谷往东北方向出发， 开车约三小时即可抵达。除了远近驰名的各 式丰富花种外，现在也因为位处泰国最具潜 力的酒庄 GranMonte 旁，为许多亚洲品酒达 人熟知。 酒 庄 的 力 作「 东 方 西 拉 (The Orient Syrah)」以西拉葡萄种为主，放入法国及美 国橡木桶中陈年，气味深邃，入口后混着辛 香、胡椒及大茴香的味道，最后则由时萝的 甜香取代厚重、深紫色的葡萄果味，令人回 味再三。整体来说，这款酒架构扎实、硬朗， 单宁味结实、浓郁，特色极为鲜明。

Sarah Heller is a content creator, visual artist and wine expert and Asia's youngest Master of Wine.

Her digital work expresses the angular structure and notes of spice and dark fruit found in GranMonte The Orient Syrah.

Sarah Heller是一位媒体创作人、视觉艺术家及葡萄酒专家，是亚洲最年轻的葡萄酒大师。 她的数位绘图作品完整呈现 GranMonte「东方西拉」硬朗扎实的结构，以及深色葡萄的辛香风味。

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WINE ART

藤蔓长歌

from adversity to wonder

COURTESY OF RUINART

A contemporary visual artist captures the strength and resilience of vines that are the source of Ruinart’s legendary Champagnes.

FOR AS LONG AS MAISON RUINART has been at the forefront of the craft of fine Champagne, it has been a passionate patron of the arts. Founded in 1729 during the Age of Enlightenment, the house has carried into the present day the period’s energetic flowering of creativity, philosophy, and culture.

What started as Ruinart’s simple but inspired idea of commissioning a young Czech artist named Alphonse Mucha to create a now-iconic advertising poster has morphed into today’s steady stream of collaborative projects with globally celebrated artists and leading art fairs.

The starting point, says Frédéric Dufour, president and CEO of the House of Ruinart, is always the distinctive character of the house’s renowned Champagne: “Elegance, refinement, purity, light, and its emblematic grape variety of chardonnay form its DNA and make it a truly timeless and modern icon.”

In seeking to express the vibrancy of its 2018 vintage, Ruinart invited Vik Muniz, a Brazilian photographer, mixedmedia artist, and Academy Award–nominated documentary filmmaker, to spend time among the chardonnay vines in a months-long residency at its Sillery vineyard. The far-north site in the Montagne de Reims subregion of Champagne grows the chardonnay grapes that are the soul of Maison Ruinart cuvées. “I met Frédéric Dufour three or four years ago,” recalls Muniz, “and we discovered many common points, including our passion for an epicurean lifestyle, enjoying amazing food and wines in good company.”

Muniz is best known for repurposing everyday materials, from chocolate and sugar to thread and garbage, to create illusionistic photographic images that often reference classical artworks or explore compelling social and political issues. His sense of the power of images was developed at an advertising agency where he worked at the beginning of his career.

Muniz later embraced the mediums of photography and film

Ruinart 酒庄是精品香槟工艺的先驱， 也是艺术的忠实拥护者。建于 1729 年 启蒙时代的酒庄，将当时蓬勃兴盛的 创新、哲学和文化带到现今。 起初，Ruinart 委托一位年轻捷克 艺术家─ Alphonse Mucha 创作一幅具 标志性的广告海报，但当初这一简单 而新潮的想法，如今已经演变成与世 界知名艺术家和领先艺术展会合作的 固定主流项目。

Ruinart 酒 庄 总 裁 兼 首 席 执 行 长 Frédéric Dufour 表 示， 一 切 始 于 酒 庄 著名香槟的独特性。他形容 ： 「优雅、 精致、纯净、轻盈，再加上招牌的葡 萄品种 ─ 霞多丽的无穷魅力，这些元 素完全融入品牌基因之中，使其成为 永恒的现代经典酒品。 」 为 庆 祝 2018 年 的 葡 萄 收 成 季， Ruinart 酒 庄 邀 请 了 Vik Muniz， 这 位 巴西摄影师、复合媒体艺术家、奥斯 卡奖提名纪录片导演，到西勒里葡萄 园中度过一个月，体验围绕于霞多丽 葡萄藤蔓之中的生活。霞多丽葡萄的 香 槟 区 位 于 法 国 远 北 的 兰 斯 山 地 区，

Ruinart 酒 庄 的 精 髓 亦 来 源 于 此。Vik 回忆道 ： 「我在三四年前见过 Frédéric， 发现我们有许多共同点，都十分讲究 饮食生活，喜爱与同好共享美食佳酿。 」 在创作幻觉摄影作品时，Vik 最出 名的技艺就是重新利用日常生活中的 素材，如巧克力、糖、线或废弃物等等。 通过将这些素材重新排列组合，Vik 重 绎古典艺术品或探讨受人注目的社会 和政治议题。他的职业生涯开始于一 间广告公司，在那里，Vik 意识到图像 roads to siam

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WINE ART

所蕴含的能量。其后，他开始透过摄影和 电影，来传达人类对自然产生的正面及负 面影响。 在 Ruinart 酒庄居住期间，Vik 花了 大量的时间游走在葡萄园的阡陌之间，吸 收历史和葡萄栽培知识，倾听总酿酒师

Frédéric Panaïotis 解说极其残酷的自然景 「 与 Frédéric 见 面 是 很 棒 的 观。Vik 说 ： 经历，他了解所有关于植物学和自然的知 识，光是看着叶子就能洞悉一切。 」 在他的名为「流动」的创作系列中， 有 一 部 分 是 取 材 于 Ruinart 酒 庄，Vik 以 视觉模拟法来阐绎他的理念，将扭曲纠结 的葡萄藤蔓在恶劣环境中愈挫愈勇的动态 感，与传统日本舞踏中刻意却流畅的身体 「我想表 律动两者相比拟。Vik 解释说 ： 现葡萄藤蔓在吸收香槟区白垩土壤的营养 和水分后，缓慢生长的流动感，远观犹如 日本舞踏舞者所表现出的震撼舞姿，近观 时却可以看到所有细节。 」 人类与自然之间长久以来的共生关 系是葡萄酒生产中的关键。为了向这一 关键致敬，Vik 还拍摄了由 Frédéric 用双 手紧握、以熏黑的木头和木炭仿制的葡萄

“I wanted to represent the slow flow of the vines getting nutrients and water from the chalky soil. 我想表现出，葡萄藤蔓在吸收 香槟区白垩土壤的营养和水分

藤。他说 ： 「对于香槟区是个土壤贫瘠、 艰困寒冷的地区，我感到十分惊讶。但矛

后，缓慢生长的流动感。

盾的是，这里却出产最好的葡萄，艰困的 环境使果实更甜美、葡萄酒更香醇。我的 挑战就是要透过艺术来捕捉逆境求生的创 造性张力。 」

COURTESY OF RUINART (2)

to express the impact, both beneficial and destructive, that humans have on nature.

During his Ruinart residency, Muniz spent many hours among the vineyard’s undulating rows, soaking up historical and viticultural knowledge, as well as narratives of the surprisingly unforgiving natural landscape, from Cellar Master Frédéric Panaïotis. “Meeting with Frédéric was a great experience,” says Muniz. “He knows all about botany and nature and can see everything in the leaves just by looking at them.”

In his Flow series, part of which is pictured here, Muniz draws a visual analogy between the twisted, intertwining limbs of the vines, sculpted by their fight to thrive in a harsh environment, and the purposeful, fluid movements of butoh, a traditional Japanese dance form.

“I wanted to represent the slow flow of the vines getting nutrients and water from the chalky soil in Champagne,” Muniz explains. “From afar, they resemble the strong gestures made by butoh dancers, and as you get closer, you can see all of the details.”

In homage to the ancient symbiotic partnership between humans and nature that is essential to the production of wine, Muniz also photographed his vine stock recreations, made from blackened wood and charcoal, held in the hands of Panaïotis. “I was very surprised,” says Muniz, “to learn that Champagne is a region with poor soils that is quite cold and difficult. But, paradoxically, this is where you get the best grapes. That struggle makes better fruit and better wines. My challenge was to capture the creative tension that takes us from adversity to wonder.”

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Wagyu beef boat noodles made with thin rice noodles, crispy pork rinds, and Thai watercress 以米粉、酥脆猪皮、泰国西洋菜制成的和牛船面

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TASTING NOTES

曼谷情怀

THE BANGKOK FEEL Hong Kong restaurant Samsen captures Thailand’s authentic street-food scene.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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Stir-fried glass noodles with fermented tofu, tiger prawns, squid, chili, egg, and Thai celery 配上腐乳、草虾、 乌贼、辣椒、 鸡蛋、泰国芹菜 的炒冬粉

SAMSEN CO-OWNERS ADAM CLIFF AND BELLA KONG, partners both in business and in life, are narrowing down possible locations for a second branch of their highly popular, Michelin-recommended street-food shophouse.

Kong, who handles the business side of the restaurant, smiles as they look around the restaurant today and reference the original mood board put together when they first began conceptualizing the venue. “It’s funny,” she says. “What you see now is actually very close to what we envisioned back then.”

During the development process, the pair visited Thailand time and again to research Bangkok’s street-food experience and absorb as much Thai culture as they could. “During those trips,” says Kong, “we picked up on certain details that we kept seeing, like the colorful buildings and gates, and we tried to incorporate them into our design.” Cliff and Kong then chose specific elements, including the coral-tinted metal gates and rattan blinds that line the entrance, unfinished concrete walls partially papered over by tattered posters, distressed cabinets, and vintage-style tilework, that would evoke the low-key and laidback atmosphere of a Bangkok street-side eatery.

Samsen sits next to Hong Kong’s UNESCO-honored Blue House cluster of bright-hued old tenement buildings, and the fact that the restaurant blends seamlessly into the middle of such a heritage block is a tribute to Cliff and Kong’s persistence in finding the perfect location. “Samsen isn’t just the food and the menu,” says Cliff. “There’s a lot more that goes into it. The old-neighborhood vibe adds to the whole experience of eating at our restaurant.”

Eating, of course, remains the primary interest of any restaurant experience, and at Samsen, the emphasis is on authenticity. The menu includes universally loved dishes like pad Thai and phat kaphrao , a stir-fry of beef with

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Adam Cliff 与 Bella Kong 为「 泰 面 」 的 共 同经营者，此米其林推荐泰式街头美食店 正在探寻第二家分店的开设地点，希望其 他地区的民众也能一尝泰式街头小吃。 两人在餐厅巡视，負責打理餐厅生意 的 Bella 微笑回想当年构思餐厅时的故事 ： 「说来有趣，您现在看到的餐厅样貌其实与 当年所想相差不多。 」规划期间，两人经常 到泰国研究曼谷街头小吃，尽可能吸收当 「那时侯我们 地纯正泰国文化。Bella 说 ： 归纳出一些频繁出现的元素，例如色彩缤 纷的建筑及大门，于是我们试着将这特色 融入餐厅设计。 」他们就这样选定特定元素， 包括珊瑚色的金属大门、入口排成一列的 藤制吊帘、部分覆盖着褴褛海报的水泥墙、 复古橱柜、仿古磁砖，他们希望用这些单 品重现曼谷街边小吃店低调慵懒的氛围。 「泰面」坐落在联合国教科文组织认证 的香港蓝屋建筑群旁，因两人坚持不懈的 追寻，才能为餐厅找到一个如此适合的地 点，与一旁的亮色老公寓融为一体。Adam 说： 「 『泰面』带来的不只餐盘与菜单上的 体验，精华荟萃是餐厅的特色。附近的老 社区氛围也是我们希望顾客一同感受的重 点。 」最重要的餐点还是大多顾客的兴趣所 在，而「泰面」所强调的是料理的道地性。

Co-owners Bella Kong and Adam Cliff

← Wok-fried wagyu beef with holy basil, Thai garlic, and chili, served with crispy-fried egg and jasmine rice 炒和牛、圣罗勒、泰国香蒜及 辣椒，配上煎蛋及泰国香米

Pandanus coconut dumplings in warm salted coconut cream 斑兰椰饺佐盐味温椰奶

holy basil and Thai garlic served with a fried egg and rice. But, as Cliff says, “a dish can be good, or a dish can sing.” The difference, the chef explains, lies in refusing to take shortcuts and in concentrating on small but critical details, like the phat kaphrao yolk remaining runny and the flavors of the pad Thai coming through with freshness and perfect balance.

Cliff and Kong decided to take a leap of faith by introducing some of their personal favorites that at the time were new to Hong Kong, dishes like rich and hearty beef boat noodle soup thickened with blood and powerfully pungent glass noodles stir-fried with fermented tofu. “It can be a dangerous dish to have on the menu,” Cliff remarks of the latter. “You either love it or you hate it. But we don’t aim to please everyone. We have to please ourselves first, and our customers will ultimately appreciate that.” The gamble has clearly paid off, with the boat noodles quickly becoming a perennial favorite and the glass noodles building its own core following.

Adds Kong, “Adam had many sleepless nights worrying what the reaction would be to the boat noodles. Back then, a lot of people had traveled to Thailand without ever trying them there. But now, once they’ve had them here, people actually go to Thailand looking for boat noodles, and that makes us happy!”

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广受欢迎的料理有泰式炒米粉，以 及用牛肉、圣罗勒、泰国香蒜大火 翻炒，配上炒蛋与饭的打抛牛。但 「料理可以只是不 如 Adam 解释 ： 错，也可以令人赞不绝口。 」其中 的差异是对细节毫不马虎的坚持。 例如打抛牛的蛋黄一定要半生、炒 米粉的口感也要清爽又均衡等。

Adam 与 Bella 当初端出偏好 的料理，都是对香港人来说从未接 触过的新菜，例如香浓、以血勾芡 的牛肉船汤面，或是气味浓烈的腐 乳炒冬粉，那时可说是放手一搏。 「这道 Adam 为腐乳炒冬粉附注 ： 料理好恶分明，绝不是所谓的安全 牌。客人可能很爱，也可能完全不 能接受，但我们的目标从来就不是 取悦所有人。我们先得取悦自己， 顾客才会自然地欣赏这些料理。 」 「Adam 那时担 Bella 补充说 ： 心大家对船面的接受度，有好一阵 子辗转难眠。毕竟当时连许多去过 泰国的人，都压根没尝过这些料 理。如今他们到『泰面』来，有了 第一次，许多人居然会主动到泰国 寻根，想尝尝当地的船面。我们听 了是打从心底觉得非常开心！」

TASTING NOTES

“‘A dish can be good, or a dish can sing.’ The difference, the chef explains, lies in refusing to take shortcuts and in concentrating on small but critical details.

料理可以只是不错，也可以令人赞不绝口。其中的差异是对细节毫不马虎的坚持。”

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「泰」正宗

TRUE TO THAI At Aaharn, Hong Kong discovers David Thompson’s seasoned and sophisticated approach to Thai cuisine.

BY ANDREA LO

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Silken Eggplant Salad with Steamed Egg 丝滑茄子沙拉伴蛋

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DAVID HARTUNG

TASTING NOTES

“ I D O N ’ T T R Y T O CO M P R O M I S E on Thai food,” says David Thompson. “There are certain tastes that have to be there.” The Bangkokbased, Australian-born chef and restaurateur is widely recognized as an authority on Thai food and a creative force who helped put it on the map internationally at nahm, the acclaimed fine-dining hotspot that he opened first in London and later in Bangkok.

Currently, Thompson operates Long Chim, which offers Thai street food at locations in Singapore, Sydney, Melbourne, and Perth, and Some Day Every Day, a casual and affordable eatery in Bangkok offering curry and rice. Last year, he launched Aaharn, which opened to fanfare as Hong Kong’s first restaurant featuring the chef’s trademark style of elevated Thai dining.

Thompson’s deep knowledge of the flavors and techniques behind Thai cuisine has been decades in the making. When he first came to Thailand for a holiday in the 1980s, he fell in love with the country, ended up moving there, and began steadily learning the ropes of Thai cooking. Before achieving the global acclaim of nahm, his first venture was Darley Street Thai in Sydney in the 1990s. All along the way, he has remained true to the food he knows best. “The faithfulness that I try to demonstrate here is based upon my experience,” he says. “I’m obliged to cook Thai food properly and also present a Thai meal properly.”

Originally, Thompson envisioned a venue in Hong Kong that would become another outlet of Long Chim. But the location he found, a leafy spot at Tai Kwun, the revitalized heritage complex that once housed Central Police Station, Victoria Prison, and the Central Magistracy, inspired him to open a fine-dining space instead. According to Thompson, the concept behind Aaharn (which means “food” in Thai) is “a menu that reflects the complexity, sophistication, and diversity of Thai food, not necessarily directed toward the cliché and the familiar.” roads to siam

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「我对泰国料理从不妥 David Thompson 说 ： 协，有些味道就是不可或缺。 」这位来自澳大 利亚的餐厅老板兼主厨曾旅居曼谷。堪称泰 国料理权威的他曾在伦敦和曼谷先后开设高 ，两家餐厅都成为备受饕客 级餐厅「nahm」 赞誉的热门高端餐饮据点。他的大胆创新将 泰国料理推向了国际舞台。

David 目前经营数家餐厅，「Long Chim」 在新加坡、悉尼、墨尔本、珀斯等地供应泰 国 街 头 小 吃， 「Some Day Every Day」 则 是 位于曼谷的平价简餐馆，提供咖喱与米饭。 「Aaharn」去年于香港盛大开幕，为当地首家 主打主厨招牌风格的升级版泰式食府。

David 料理泰国菜已有数十年，对泰国 菜的风味和烹饪手法钻研极深。他于八十年 代初次到泰国度假，便对此地一见钟情，更 决定迁居至此，开始逐步学习如何炮制泰国 料理。在「nahm」享誉国际之前，David 曾 于九十年代在悉尼初试啼声，开设「Darley

Street Thai」餐厅。一路走来，他始终忠于这 种最熟悉的味道。他说 ： 「我所展现的原汁原 味正糅合了我的个人经验。我有义务烹制正 宗泰国菜，展现道地的风味。 」 原 本 David 预 期 在 香 港 的 新 店 将 是 「Long Chim」 的 延 伸。 然 而， 他 其 后 找 到 的地点位于大馆，这里不仅绿树蓊郁，还是 一栋整修后焕然一新的历史建筑。该建筑前 身曾是中区警署、域多利监狱和中央裁判司 署所在地，这让他兴起开高档食府的念头。

David 表示，餐厅名「Aaharn」在泰语中是「食 物」的意思，店名背后的意涵是「反映出泰 国料理的复杂、精致及多样性，且不落俗套」 。 除了可以一尝泰国各地都有的经典菜式 之外，来到「Aaharn」的宾客还可一尝 David 的巧妙匠心。他擅长以平衡与深度展现泰式 料理的繁复深邃，同时突显食材作为菜式主 不过度繁复。就算厨师知识渊博，但『巧妇 难为无米之炊』 。此外，我们只用最上等的食 材，这是我的坚持。 」 「Aaharn」的所有食材 都经精挑细选，尽可能从泰国进口，随后主 厨与团队再根据食材挥洒创意。 David Thompson

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

角的地位。他介绍 ： 「食物经过精雕细琢，但

Stir Fry Beef with Thai Basil and Oyster Sauce 泰国罗勒蚝油炒牛肉

TASTING NOTES

Diners at Aaharn will find many of the classic dishes offered in restaurants across Thailand presented alongside Thompson’s own creations. These showcase the complexity of Thai cuisine through balance and depth while always putting the ingredients in the starring role. “It’s about food that is honed and not overly complicated,” he says. “You might have all the knowledge, but if you don’t have the ingredients, you can’t cook. We only use the best – I insist on that.” Sourced from Thailand whenever possible, the ingredients selected by Aaharn very much dictate what the chef and his team create.

One much-loved classic is Thompson’s silken eggplant salad with steamed egg. Seasoned with a rich mix of herbs – mint, shallots, coriander, and deep-fried garlic – it is topped with homemade dried prawns. Aromatic chicken curry, another

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David 其 中 一 道 广 受 欢 迎 的 经典菜式是丝绸般柔滑的茄子沙 拉伴鸡蛋，以薄荷、红葱头、香菜、 炸 大 蒜 等 丰 富 佐 料 调 味 后， 再 摆 上 自 制 干 烧 虾。 另 一 道 历 久 不 衰 的泰式经典为香气四溢的咖喱鸡， 鸡腿肉和马铃薯浸在用浓郁辣酱 和 新 鲜 椰 浆 制 成 的 酱 汁 中， 简 单 却美味无比。

David 的干烧咖喱虾放在以椰 子油和自制椰浆制成的红咖喱酱中

← Aromatic Chicken Curry 咖喱鸡 → Dry Prawn Curry

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

干烧咖喱虾

time-honored Thai favorite, is a simple dish of chicken legs and potatoes in a sauce made with a rich spice paste and fresh coconut cream.

Thompson’s dry prawn curry, which features red curry paste cooked in coconut oil and homemade coconut cream, is finished with fish sauce, sugar, kaffir lime leaves, and coriander. His succulent braised pork with five spice egg, a traditional Thai dish inspired by the Chinese, is simmered in stock and served with boiled eggs and Chinese broccoli. Stir-fry beef with Thai basil and oyster sauce comes straight from the chef’s signature repertoire.

“After thirty years of cooking,” says Thompson, “my faculties are really attuned to what Thai food should be. It comes through my taste buds, through my eyes, and through my understanding.”

拌 煮， 再 加 入 鱼 露、 糖、 泰 国 柠 檬叶和香菜。而他香嫩多汁的五香 蛋炖猪肉是一道改良自中菜的传统 泰国料理，用高汤基底煨煮后，佐 水煮蛋与中式绿椰菜 ；泰国罗勒蚝 油炒牛肉则是他最拿手的招牌菜之 一。 「做了三十年厨师， David 說 ： 真正泰国料理的模样早已融入我的 感官之中。我的料理来自于我的味 蕾、我的眼睛、我的体会。 」 roads to siam

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PRESENTED BY BANYAN TREE MACAU

← Gaeng Prik Kradook Moo: Spicy Pork Ribs, Southern Chili, Black Pepper 泰式黑椒排骨 → Miang Kham-Savoury Leaf Wrap 皇家叶包香菜料

正宗泰味

REAL THAI IN A WORLD WHERE trendy fusion food has become a culinary cliché, Monnipa Rungthong, head chef of award-winning Saffron at Banyan Tree Macau, takes a stand for the time-honored. “I want guests to experience dining at Saffron just as though they were eating in a Thai home,” she says. “Here they can enjoy food with authentic tastes cooked in a very traditional style.”

Ingredients that are the absolute essentials of every Thai kitchen, including galangal, lemongrass, and kaffir limes, are imported directly from Thailand and are of the highest quality available. “These are the things you need as the basis of any truly satisfying Thai dish.” But it’s the remarkable results that Rungthong achieves with these ingredients that make Saffron such a standout on Macau’s dining scene. “The key to cooking really great Thai food,” she explains, “is knowing how to balance the four key tastes – sour, salty, sweet, and spicy. Every dish in Thai cuisine incorporates, if not all four, at least two of these. One flavor may be dominant, but others will be there too, all playing off one another.”

Saffron’s open kitchen offers diners a glimpse into the culinary alchemy of the chef and her team. The restaurant’s sleek interiors, with high ceilings, handsome dark wood furnishings, vibrant accents, and subtle lighting, also help to create a warm and spacious feel that enhances the dining experience. “I like to know that our food

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Saffron’s accomplished chef brings diners all the abundance of her homeland’s classic flavors.

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Pla Rad Prik: Crisp Fried Seabass, Chili-Pineapple Sauce 酸甜菠萝脆炸鲈鱼

当世界各地的餐饮界相继刮起融合菜肴风潮，相竞推出创新 料理，澳门悦榕庄泰国餐厅 ─「尚坊」的获奖主厨 Monnipa 「我希望 Rungthong 选择专注于传承世代的传统厨艺。她说 ： 宾客在这里体验用餐时，感觉如同在泰国家庭吃饭一样，品尝 到以非常传统手法料理的正宗泰菜。 」 从泰国直接进口最佳品质的南姜、柠檬草和青柠，都是泰 「要烹调任何一道色 国料理中不可或缺的食材。Monnipa 说 ： 香味俱全的泰国料理，这些都是你所需要的基本食材。 」主厨 就是透过这些食材，让「尚坊」在澳门的美食界脱颖而出。她 解释 ： 「烹饪出美味泰式料理的关键在于懂得如何平衡酸、咸、 甜、辣四种主要风味，一道泰国菜中若没有四味俱全，至少都 有其中两种，由一种风味主导，并与其他风味相辅相成。 」 「尚坊」的开放式厨房让宾客能够一窥堂奥，近距离欣赏 主厨与其团队的烹饪绝活。餐厅里的时尚装潢、挑高天花板、 精制手工木质家具、活力氛围和典雅灯光，整体营造出温馨宽 敞的感觉，提升用餐体验。主厨说 ： 「我希望我们的料理能让 客人感到悦目娱心。这种开放式的工作空间，让我们有机会与 客人互动。当我们见到他们眉开眼笑，这一切就值得了。 」

Monnipa 经验丰富，能够精准地融合并协调各种风味， 展现出在世界各地的厨房中磨练出的好厨艺。尽管曾在众多名 厨手下工作，她的偶像仍旧是她的母亲。她说 ： 「我从五岁开

Seafood Thai Tiffin Lunch 海鲜泰式便当午餐

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始就在厨房帮忙，母亲除了指导我如何做饭外，还让我体会到 与朋友、邻居一同分享佳肴的美好。她是我一生中最大的灵感 来源。 」 虽然在曼谷出生长大，但 Monnipa 对泰国南部的美食有 着浓厚的兴趣。她说 ： 「我喜欢泰国每个地区的食物，但南部 的美食在我心中的地位无可替代。南部的味道更鲜明、更香辣， 糅合更多香料和姜黄，个中滋味相当美妙。 」 为了使「尚坊」的料理更具泰式风味，最近 Monnipa 推 出全新泰式便当午餐─ Thai Tiffin Lunch， Tiffin 就是便当的意思， 传统上会带到家里以外的地方如工作地点、学校食用。便当的 三个餐盒盛载不同食物，打开便是一顿丰富的午餐。尚坊一共 推出四款套餐选择，主菜包括素食、海鲜、肉类和鱼类，皆搭 配开胃菜、汤、饭和甜点。她说 ： 「便当是每个泰国人的儿时记 忆，能够为澳门带来这个道地的泰国文化真是好极了。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

makes people happy,” says the chef. “Being able to work so openly gives us the chance to interact with guests, and seeing their enjoyment and delight makes it all worthwhile.”

Rungthong’s seasoned style, with its carefully balanced combinations of flavors, reveals skills that have been honed in kitchens around the world. And although she has worked under a roster of master chefs, her culinary hero remains her mother. “From around the age of five,’’ she says, “I started helping her in the kitchen. She taught me so much – not just how to cook, but also the importance of sharing good food with friends and neighbors. She really is my biggest inspiration.”

Although born and raised in Bangkok, Rungthong has developed a passion for Southern Thai cuisine. “I love the food from all regions of the country, but Southern cuisine holds a special place in my heart. It’s stronger, spicier, and uses more herbs and turmeric. The tastes are amazing.”

To complement Saffron’s authentic offerings, Rungthong has recently launched a new Thai Tiffin Lunch set menu.

Traditionally used for lunch at work or school or anywhere outside the home, a tiffin is a collection of three stacked containers that open to reveal an entire meal. Saffron offers four different sets, with vegetarian, seafood, meat, or fish main dishes, each one accompanied by a starter, soup, rice, and dessert. “This is something everyone grows up eating in Thailand,” she says. “It’s nice to be able to bring a genuine touch of my culture to people here in Macau.”

PRESENTED BY BANYAN TREE MACAU

Gaeng Kati Poo Alaska: Southern Style Spicy Yellow Curry King Crab Alaska, Pickle, Rice Vermicelli Noodle 泰南黄咖喱阿拉斯加蟹

INGREDIENTS

P R AW N S TO C K 鲜虾高汤

CO CO N U T 椰子肉

C H I L I PA S T E 辣 椒 酱

泰味揭秘

S H R I M P PA S T E 虾酱

DECONSTRUCTING THAI

Saffron’s head chef reveals what goes into her elegant versions of two Thai favorites.

L I M E 青柠

K A F F I R L I M E L E AV E S 泰国柠檬 L E M O N G R A SS 柠檬草

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C H E R R Y TO M ATO E S 樱桃番茄

CHILIES 辣椒

G A L A N G A L 南姜

R I V E R P R AW N S 淡水虾

BY INARA SIM

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

S H A L LOT S 红葱

M U S H R O O M S 蘑菇

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INGREDIENTS

海鲜冬阴功

TOM YUM GOONG THAILAND’S CELEBRATED hot-and-sour soup is a national signature dish that deliciously exemplifies the character of the cuisine by featuring all four of the famed Thai tastes: salty, sour, sweet, and spicy. The name, which translates as “boiling” (tom) and “spicy salad” (yum), often ends with a word that varies according to what is added to the soup. The most popular version is tom yum goong with prawns.

It’s unclear when the dish’s first incarnation made its appearance, but it’s thought to have been created for the royal court, a meal served to impress both the nation’s ruling elite and their guests. Coming up with new dishes for the royals meant pushing boundaries wherever possible, with the goal of making an impact by letting diners discover new flavor sensations with every mouthful.

At Banyan Tree Macau’s signature Thai restaurant, Saffron, Head Chef Monnipa Rungthong’s take on the iconic soup is definitely fit for a king. According to her, the perfect tom yum goong is rich and creamy and vividly orange. The color, as well as exceptional aroma and taste, is only possible by incorporating the fatty juices in the heads of the river prawns. “It’s basically what can make or break a great tom yum,” she says. “If you miss this important ingredient, your soup just won’t be the same.

“To start the dish, we add prawn stock, lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, and chilies to the pot. It’s important to bruise the lemongrass, lime leaves, and galangal to make sure that all their flavors and aromas are released. Then we let it boil together until you can really smell the fragrance of the herbs.”

Chili paste, shrimp paste, shallots, mushrooms, and tomatoes are added and cooked until the vegetables are tender. The prawns are added at the last minute and cooked quickly until they turn a beautiful pink. Off the heat, flavoring flourishes of fish sauce, coriander, and lime are added to complete the dish.

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泰国著名的冬阴功是一道当地美味的特 色菜，体现了泰式美食中的四大特色 ─ 咸、酸、甜、辣。菜名中的第一字「冬」 ， 译为「沸腾」 、第二字「阴」为「辣沙律」 而最后一个字则依配料不同而变化名称， 如最受欢迎的就是冬阴功酸辣虾汤。 目前还不清楚这道料理最初的样 式，但相传创作源自宫廷食宴，这是为 了让国家的统治精英与其贵宾留下深刻 的印象。这道专为皇室所设计出的佳肴 也意味着随时都会增添新奇的发想，目 的就是要惊艳贵宾，让他们每一口都发 现新滋味。 在澳门悦榕庄的泰国餐厅「尚坊」 ， 主 厨 Monnipa Rungthong 的 独 门 绝 活， 绝对能让这道料理被称为宫廷御膳。据 她所说，完美的酸辣虾汤味道浓郁、质 地浓稠、颜色呈鲜橙色，而如此的色、香、 味要透过熬煮虾头中的油汁来达成。她 说： 「这基本上决定了一锅冬阴功的成败， 如果遗漏了这个关键食材，口感就不一 样了。 」 「开始准备 Monnipa 进 一 步 解 释 ： 料理时，我们先在锅里加入鲜虾高汤、 柠檬草、柠檬叶、南姜和辣椒，重点是 要搓揉一下柠檬草、柠檬叶和南姜，以 确保所有的味道和香气都释放出来，再 一起滚煮，直到能闻到香草的香气。 」放 入辣椒酱、虾酱、红葱、蘑菇和番茄烹煮， 直到蔬菜都熟软后，最后一刻才加入虾， 并迅速汆烫成美丽的粉红色。起锅后， 淋上鱼露，配上香菜和青柠就完成了。

INGREDIENTS

CO R I A N D E R

香菜

RICE STICK NOODLES

米粉

F I S H S A U C E 鱼露

L I M E 青柠

D R I E D C H I L I E S 干辣椒 C H I V E S 韭菜 P I C K L E D T U R N I P S 腌萝卜

CRUSHED PEANUTS 碎花生

D R I E D S H R I M P S 虾米 TA M A R I N D 罗望子

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EG G S 蛋

LO B S T E R 龙虾

TO F U 豆腐

S H A L LOT S 红葱

G A R L I C 大蒜

B E A N S P R O U T S 豆芽

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INGREDIENTS

泰式炒米粉

PAD THAI UNDOUBTEDLY THE MOST RECOGNIZED and internationally popular of Thai dishes, pad thai (more accurately kway teow pad thai ) is believed to have originated in China. An early version likely arrived with settlers crossing the border from the north, and over time, Thai ingredients and flavors were added to make the dish that we know today.

But how did such a humble dish rise to such lofty national esteem? Severe flooding during the Second World War caused a shortage of rice, and in an effort to preserve its reserve stocks, the Thai government began promoting noodles to the people as an alternative. What had been a largely overlooked home-style dish suddenly burst into the mainstream of popular taste and into kitchens across the country.

“It’s a quick and easy meal, something you can whip together for lunch,” says Chef Rungthong. “Traditionally it’s made with prawns, but to make it special, we use lobster.”

The chef starts by soaking rice noodles for at least an hour.

“Once the noodles are soft,” she says, “we fire up the wok to a high heat and quickly stir-fry the shallots, pickled turnip, tofu, and dried chilies before adding the lobster, egg, and noodles.

The palm sugar and tamarind are mixed until the sugar dissolves, and the combination, along with the fish sauce, is poured over the noodles.” Taking less than ten minutes to prepare, the dish is finished with toppings of spring onions, chives, bean sprouts, crushed peanuts, and a wedge of lime.

The sweet, sour, salty, and spicy tastes that feature in nearly every Thai dish are eminently evident in Rungthong’s sumptuously flavorful pad thai. The palm sugar lends a sweet roundness, the tamarind provides both sweet and sharply sour notes, and the Thai chilies give it the essential spicy wallop.

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泰式炒米粉肯定是最知名且受世界各地 欢迎的泰国料理，确切来说，应该被称 为泰式炒粿条。据说这道菜起源于中国， 最初可能是由中国移民从北方入境时传 入泰国，随时间进展，逐渐融入泰国当 地食材与风味而演化至如今的样貌。 然而，如此简单的料理怎会成为响 亮的泰国招牌菜？原来第二次世界大战 期间的洪水导致米粮短缺，为了增加国 家储备粮，泰国政府开始向人民推广面 条，用以替代米饭。于是这道往往被忽 视的家常菜便倏地成为国内各地流行的 主流菜式，风行于家家户户的厨房。 「这是一道简易 主厨 Monnipa 说 ： 方便的料理，炒一炒就可以作为一顿午 餐了。传统上，配料是用一般的虾，但 为了与众不同，我们使用龙虾。 」 主厨先将米粉浸泡最少一小时。她 说： 「米粉变得湿软后，我们就放锅开火。 先大火快炒红葱、腌萝卜、豆腐和干辣 椒，再加入龙虾、蛋和米粉。将棕榈糖 和罗望子混合搅拌直到糖溶解，再将鱼 露一起淋在米粉上。 」这道料理不用十分 钟就完成了，最后再以红葱、韭菜、豆芽， 碎花生和一瓣青柠点缀于其上即可。 几乎每道泰国菜中都有甜、酸、咸、 辣的滋味，Monnipa 的泰式炒米粉也不 例外，棕榈糖带来饱满的甜味，罗望子 有着酸甜的滋味，泰国辣椒则是呛辣的 刺激。

PRESENTED BY BANYAN TREE

Savory sauce of shrimp, peanuts, coconut, and golden beans, served with raw, blanched, and fried vegetables 新鲜生菜、炒蔬菜拌金豆椰香花生虾酱

PRESENTED BY COMO METROP OLITAN BANGKOK

经典不朽

the timelessness of thai

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

At nahm, a noted chef celebrates the rich past and exciting present of Thai cuisine.

“ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I do every time I come back to Bangkok,” says Chef Pim Techamuanvivit, “is visit a couple of markets so I can feel the rhythm and see the changes in the seasonal produce and ingredients. You can taste so many things and get to know the people selling them.” The Thaiborn restaurateur is both executive chef of Michelin-starred nahm at COMO Metropolitan Bangkok and chef proprietor of the equally lauded Kin Khao in San Francisco.

Techamuanvivit casts a wide net in her never-ending search for new and interesting products. On taking over at nahm a year ago, she conducted a blind taste test of local fish sauces, ultimately selecting three: one made from wild anchovies, another from freshwater fish, and the third a byproduct of shrimp-paste preparation. She also actively went out searching for producers of distinctive sugars, including coconut and palm, to bring variations in sweetness to her dishes.

When her chefs occasionally visit family in other parts of the country, they often bring back varieties of heirloom rice for her to sample. She even tells of receiving Line messages from her market vendors who have sleuthed out noteworthy products in remote villages. “As a chef,” she says, “I take it as my social responsibility to find and support the artisans who are producing great ingredients – they are the basis of my food. I want to make sure producers can make a good living and hopefully pass on their skills and knowledge to the next generation. It’s a difficult business, and they are getting harder and harder to find.”

Artisanal ingredients play a prominent role in the cuisine that is Techamuanvivit’s cultural heritage and that she invites guests at nahm to explore. But even as she remains true to traditional recipes, she believes that improvisation and

Spicy Chiang Mai larp of guinea fowl, crisp alliums, and herbs 酸辣清迈珠鸡、葱酥、香草 roads to siam

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innovation aren’t merely permitted, they’re often essential. “I reference old cookbooks and I reference the flavors I loved growing up,” she says. “But at the same time, I’m looking at the ingredients in front of me and trying to coax the best out of them.”

With this in mind, Techamuanvivit’s sophisticated interpretations often lean toward flavoring and balancing dishes with a light, deft touch. “We have a fisherman who sends us wild prawns from Songkhla. They’re delicious and fresh and taste of the sea, so we want to calibrate the seasoning in such a way that the beauty of the seafood shines through. Too much and we might as well use tofu.”

Techamuanvivit also likes to embrace old dishes and

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主厨 Pim Techamuanvivit 说 ： 「每次我回到曼谷，第一件事就是先走访几个市场， 感受城市的脉动，查看时令农产品和食材，品尝种类繁多的材料，还能结识市场上 的摊贩。 」出生于泰国的 Pim 是曼谷大都会酒店中米其林星级餐厅「nahm」的行 政总厨，也是美国旧金山知名餐厅「Kin Khao」的老板。

Pim 撒 下 天 罗 地 网，旨 在 不 断 寻 找 创 新 且 有 趣 的 食 材。 一 年 前，她 接 管 「nahm」 ，盲测了当地鱼露的味道，最终挑选了原料为野生鳀鱼和淡水鱼的产品， 以及虾酱制程中的副产品等三种鱼露，供餐厅使用。她还积极寻找生产特殊糖类的 业者，包括椰糖和棕榈糖，为料理中的甜味带来多样变化。 餐厅其他厨师偶尔会回乡探亲，会各自从家乡带回家传的米饭给她品尝。市 场摊贩还会与她互通讯息，谈论他们在偏远村庄收成了上好的食材。她说 ： 「作为 一名厨师，我的社会责任就是找到并支持以传统方式生产的业者，食材是我料理的 根基。我想确保他们的收入足以养家活口，并将生产技能和知识传授给下一代。这 是一项艰难的任务，而且越来越难找到这样的农民。 」

← Blue swimmer crab, coriander, pickled garlic, and peanuts on a rice cracker 花蟹、香菜、腌大蒜、花生米饼 →

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Executive chef Pim Techamuanvivit

prepare them in new ways. One salad recipe had such an interesting combination of ingredients, flavors, and textures that she decided to present it as a one-bite miang kham of lobster, chicken, green mango, and snake fruit wrapped in a betel leaf. In another example, she adapted a classic relish recipe, creating an original dish by making the relish the basis for a stir-fry with live river prawns. “In this way,” she explains, “we follow something old while improvising with something new. And it’s still true Thai food.

“I want my guests to have a great meal, to appreciate the ingredients we’ve sourced, to enjoy the way we present our dishes, to really taste Thai food the way I’d like them to taste it.”

以传统方式生产的食材在 Pim 的料理中扮演着举足轻重的角色，她想借此让 「nahm」的贵宾去探索其中文化传承的意义。然而，她也认为，尽管忠于传统食谱， 但即兴创作及创新也是必要的，甚至是不可或缺的。她说 ： 「我参考传统食谱和伴 随我成长的熟悉味道，但同时也审视食材，尝试巧妙地带出新滋味。 」 依着此理念，Pim 对于料理的细致诠释往往是以轻盈、灵巧的手法调味与平 「一位渔夫从宋卡为我们带来野生虾，味道鲜美清甜、海味十 衡风味。 她介绍说 ： 足，所以我们想以适当的调味来突显海鲜的鲜甜，有时还会加入豆腐。 」

Pim 也喜欢「旧菜新尝」，沙拉中有趣的食材、风味和口感搭配，使她突发奇 想，将龙虾、鸡肉、青芒果、蛇皮果包裹在槟榔叶中，作为一口吃的包叶料理。 另一个例子则是她参考经典开胃小菜食谱，用炒活虾设计出一道原创料理。她说 ： 「虽然我们在传统中玩创新，但仍是正宗的泰式料理。 」 「我希望餐厅的贵宾能够在享用美食之余，赏识我们精心选购的食材， Pim 说 ： 欣赏我们摆盘的艺术，并按照我个人建议的方式，真真正正地品尝泰式料理。 」 roads to siam

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TASTING DESTINATION

逆转传统

THE POWER OF NEGATIVE PAIRING

DAVID HARTUNG

In the spirit of Indian flavor traditions, an intrepid chef creates a uniquely modern cuisine.

THINLY SLICED STRAWBERRIES are geometrically puzzled together and shaped into an irregular hexagon, topped with a quenelle of Royal Project sturgeon caviar, and lightly scented with drops of lemony hor wor oil.

Presented midway through the fourteen-course dinner at Michelinstarred Gaa in Bangkok, this intriguing and elegantly plated dish is one that chef and co-owner Garima Arora describes as “the perfect embodiment of what we are trying to do here.”

At first glance, and even after first taste, the combinaBY tion defies categorization within any specific cuisine. And MAMIE CHEN that’s exactly the point. “Our food is not Indian, obviously,” • says Arora, a Noma-influenced enthusiast of Thai food who PHOTOGRAPHY BY was born in Mumbai and trained at Le Cordon Bleu. Indeed, DAVID HARTUNG one would be hard-pressed to find any traditional Indian dish that features either strawberries, caviar, or hor wor, an herb foraged from forests in Chiang Rai province. “But, in spirit,” explains Arora, “our food is from that part of the world. What we do here is tap into Indian techniques to create a completely new and unique modern palette.”

Along those lines, the chef has been pondering the science behind “negative food pairing.” According to this concept, positive pairings are those that, when compared to a randomized sampling across the full range of flavor molecules, have a greater degree of similarity among their flavors, and negative pairings are those that have a lesser degree of similarity.

In exploring how to leverage the principle in her own modern style, Arora has made a counterintuitive break with her professional training in Western cuisines, where prevailing pairing philosophy marries coordinating ingredients like strawberries, genoise, and crème mousseline to mutually

PORK 猪肋

“This dish looks a lot like chaat that we have in India, with pomegranate, onions, and coriander.

There’s so much umami in these ingredients already, and then they’re added to pork rib grilled with tamarind glaze. So it’s sweet and sour and smoky all at the same time.” 「这道料理看起来很像印 度小吃，本身就鲜味十足 的石榴、洋葱和葱花，再 搭配上罗望子酱烤猪肋 骨，让整道料理酸酸甜甜 又带有浓浓烟熏味。 」

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BE TEL LEAF 槟榔叶

“The betel leaf is common to both Thailand and India, so we bookend the meal with a savory and a sweet version. We start with a leaf cooked in duck stock and seasoned with a bit of herb salt. And we end with a leaf covered in dark chocolate and cardamom on one side and dusted with fennel powder and roasted chutney on the other.” 「我们以半咸半甜的手法料理泰国和印度 皆常见的槟榔叶。首先，将叶子放入鸭 肉高汤中烹煮，并撒上少许香草盐调味， 接着将半边叶子覆以黑巧克力，上方洒 上小豆蔻，另一边则裹以茴香粉，蘸上

BE TEL LEAF 槟榔叶

“The betel leaf is common to both Thailand and India, so we bookend the meal with a savory and a sweet version. We start with a leaf cooked in duck stock and seasoned with a bit of herb salt.

And we end with a leaf covered in dark chocolate and cardamom on one side and dusted with fennel powder and roasted chutney on the other.”

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“ 槟榔叶对泰国和印度来说都很 常见，所以我们用咸味和甜味的 方式来制作这顿饭。 我们首先 用鸭肉烹制的叶子和用少许草药 盐调味。 最后，我们的一面是 一片黑巧克力和小豆蔻，最后撒 上茴香粉和烤酸辣酱。“

magnify the sweet taste profiles and lift the entire dish. In contrast, most Asian cuisines, especially Indian ones, follow the opposite approach by pulling together from across the spectrum ingredients with wildly different tastes, expertly combining them to achieve an astonishing range of complex and wellrounded flavors.

“You wouldn’t instinctively try to balance a dish with these three unrelated ingredients,” Arora admits.

“But when you do, you realize that they absolutely work together. It’s the sweetness from the strawberries, the saltiness from the caviar, and the hint of bitterness from the hor wor oil that find harmony in the end.”

In a similar way, the course concisely listed on the menu as “corn” negatively pairs a spice rub of black salt, chili, and lime on grilled baby corn with a corn-milk dip. Inspired by the popular Indian street-food combination

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

印度酸辣酱。 」

TASTING DESTINATION

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主厨创作这道料理时，利用几何概念将薄切草 莓片拼铺成不规则的六角形，再摆上一小团皇 家顶级鱼子酱，最后再以几滴带有柠檬清香的 植物油增添风味。 这道优雅迷人的料理，呈现在曼谷米其 林一星餐厅「Gaa」十四道菜的套餐中，身兼 主厨和合伙人的 Garima Arora 形容此料理「完 美体现我们不断追求的目标」 。 这 样 的 食 材 融 合， 使 宾 客 在 乍 看 之 下， 甚至在品尝之后，仍难以将其归类为特定的料 理风格，但这正是其玩味之处。Garima 说道 ： 「我们的料理的确不是印度式的。 」她出生于孟 买，毕业于蓝带国际学院，是位深受「Noma」 餐厅影响的泰式料理爱好者。大众确实很难见 到传统的印度料理会使用草莓、鱼子酱、hor

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

of bhutta , or roasted corn, and chai, the dish, under Arora’s direction, delivers an exquisite balance of salty, spicy, sour, and sweet profiles that allow the true essence of corn to shine through.

Arora draws from her Indian background throughout the tasting menu to create a defining flavor style for Gaa. “Chefs from around the world have been using French techniques to make something new,” she explains. “Even the new Nordic movement is based on them. I think Indian techniques can do the same in providing tools to express yourself in a completely modern and relevant way.”

Of khakra , the crispy spiced breakfast cracker from India’s Gujarati region, Arora remarks, “We definitely knew we wanted to do something with it.” She places a very lightly grilled local freshwater crayfish atop the khakra, serving it with a thin spread of umami-rich emulsified crayfishhead oil and delicately garnishing it with pomelo juice vesicles and baby coriander leaves.

JACKFRUIT 菠萝蜜

“When we serve the unripe jackfruit, guests are always surprised. Jackfruit is rarely eaten unripe in Thailand. But in India, it’s very, very rare to find it ripe. This is perhaps a more refined version of how unripe jackfruit is cooked, so even our Indian guests will say, ‘Oh, my God, I’ve never had jackfruit this way. How did you cut it and keep it whole like this?’” 「当未熟透的菠萝蜜端上桌时， 宾客总是感到惊奇，因为泰国 人不吃尚未熟透的菠萝蜜。相 反地，印度人却极少吃熟透的 菠萝蜜。对于这道经过精致烹 调后的未成熟菠萝蜜料理，连 印度宾客都直呼 ： 『哇，天哪！ 我从来没有尝过这样的菠萝 蜜，你是如何将它切片后还保 持得如此完整？』 」

“One of the most amazing things I found in Indian foods was how to draw umami from vegetables,” says Arora. “That’s how we’re able to serve a completely vegetarian main course without anybody missing the meat.” Unripe jackfruit is sliced horizontally to reveal an uncommon crosssection view of the fruit. Cooked on the grill to release glutamate from the proteins, it is seasoned with caramelized onions for an extra level of umami and served with pickled condiments and roti made from ripe jackfruit flour.

Arora takes special pride in the dish: it surprises Thai guests, who have typically eaten jackfruit only when ripe and sweet, and delights Indian guests with an unexpectedly modern presentation that manages to preserve much of the fruit’s natural form. “What inspires me as a chef is trying something for the first time,” says Arora. “It could be a new product, a new combination of flavors, or a new technique. That excites me, and I think it excites any diner.”

wor，这是一种在清莱省森林中采集到的香草。 「然而，我们是凭借印度料理的 Garima 解释 ： 精神，利用印度料理的烹饪手法，创作出新颖 且独树一帜的现代料理。 」 依着此一料理原则，主厨反覆思索着「反 向搭配」背后的科学，其概念是将所有食材依 味道分门别类，再将料理中会使用到的食材加 以连结分析， 「正向搭配」意指食材间的味道 相似度高， 「反向搭配」则表示食材间的味道 相似度低。 在探索如何将「反向搭配」运用于自己 现代料理中时，Garima 自成一格，打破西式 厨艺训练中对于食材间「正向搭配」的直觉反 应，认为草莓、海绵蛋糕和幕斯琳奶馅就该相 互搭配以突显甜味、提升层次。相较之下，大 roads to siam

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B A BY CO R N 玉米笋

“A farmer brought us the baby corn.

When we started working with it, it took me back to growing up in Bombay. During the monsoons we’d always have corn on the cob with chai, a super-reduced sweetened tea. Here, we take the flavors of the street food, replace the big corn with baby corn, and give you corn milk instead of the tea.” 「一开始料理农夫带来的玉米笋时，

多数亚洲料理，尤其是印度料理，则多采用

我想起了在孟买的童年时光，雨季时

「反向搭配」 ，熟练地结合味道截然不同的食

总是吃着整支玉米配又浓又甜的印度

材，以创造出复杂却饱满的味觉惊艳感。

奶茶。我们将这街边小吃的滋味融入

「直觉上，你不会去结合 Garima 坦言 ：

菜单中，用玉米笋代替整支玉米，搭

这三项毫不相关的食材，并摸索其中的协调

配玉米白奶酱而不是奶茶。 」

性，但是当你尝试后，会意识到他们之间绝 对适以相成，草莓的甜味、鱼子酱的咸味、 以及香草油的甘味糅合，达到味觉上的完美 和谐。 」 相同地，在菜单上一道被精简命名为「玉 米」的料理中， 「反向搭配」了以黑盐、辣椒 和青柠调味的烤玉米笋以及玉米白奶酱，灵 感源自烤玉米配印度奶茶。这一印度小吃 ，

Garima 完美呈现咸、辛、酸、甜间的协调性， 充分释放出玉米笋的美味精华。

Garima 从 其 印 度 背 景 中 汲 取 灵 感， 为 「Gaa」创造出独树一帜的品尝菜单与料理风 格。她解释 ： 「世界各地的厨师总是在运用法 式烹饪技巧设计别出心裁的料理，连北欧新 风料理风潮也是以之为基础。我认为，印度 料理的烹调手法也能借此方式，展现自我的 现代化料理风格。 」 谈及印度古吉拉特的早餐脆饼，Garima 说： 「我们的确想用它来创作新口味。 」她在 脆饼上摆了微烤小龙虾，抹上薄薄一层带有 丰富鲜味的乳化虾头油，最后再以柚子泡沫 和嫩香菜叶精心点缀。 她续说 ： 「印度料理中最令我惊艳的技 法之一就是如何从蔬菜中萃取鲜味，这使我 们能提供足以让宾客完全忘却肉类的全素主 菜。 」Garima 将尚未熟成的菠萝蜜水平切成 片，以展露其特殊横切面，放在架上烘烤后， 其蛋白质成分会释放出鲜味，再用焦化的洋 葱调味添加风味，上桌时佐腌渍配料和以熟 成菠萝蜜粉制的印度面饼。

Garima 尤其对这道菜式感到自豪，因为 它让平时只吃熟成甜菠萝蜜的泰国宾客感到 惊喜，同时印度宾客也赞叹，现代料理竟然 主厨的动力来自每一次的新尝试，可能是一 种新的菜式料理、味觉组合或烹调技法。这 能让我总是兴奋不已、跃跃欲试，也使宾客 悦目娱心。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG

能大大保留水果中的天然原形。她说 ： 「我当

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白玉方壁

食之馨香

TRANSCENDENT POSSIBILITIES At Mihara Tofuten Bangkok, a unique omakase experience makes tofu a fine-dining star.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Fresh homemade tofu 新鲜的自制豆腐

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TASTING DESTINATION

Rum raisin, pistachio, matcha, and cacao tofu chocolate 朗姆酒提子、开心果、抹茶及可可口味的豆腐巧克力

“IT’S YUMMY BUT IT’S BORING,” says Tripradap Anand of her

former perception of tofu. By heritage half Thai and half Chinese, she’d been eating the mundane staple all her life without giving it much thought. “I didn’t know that tofu could be more,” she says, “until then.”

“Then” was the first time she and her husband, Gaggan Anand, dined at Mihara Tofuten in Fukuoka, Japan. Gaggan is chef-owner of famed Bangkok restaurant Gaggan, which holds two Michelin stars and was ranked number one on the list of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants four years in a row.

The couple had never before experienced anything like the tofu-forward menu of Mihara Tofuten, one of two informal izakaya restaurants operated by the Mihara family to showcase the products of their nearby tofu factory. The kinu tofu was more silken and creamy. The fresh sheets of yuba , or tofu skin, were more delicately flavored and tender. The atsu-age tofu was deep-fried with a light touch to crispy golden perfection. The tonyu , or soy milk, was enlivened with dashi and served as a dipping sauce for somen noodles. “When I had that dish, I drank all the soy milk like tea and then asked for more,” she laughs. “It made a lasting impression and is still my favorite.”

Even before the meal was over, Tripradap knew that she wanted to bring the concept to Bangkok. Her husband agreed.

Despite Gaggan’s celebrity-chef status, they took their time gently broaching the idea to owner Hiroki Mihara. Two years of discussion and another of exploration ultimately led to a unique proposition: a three-way creative collaboration between Mihara, Gaggan, and Takeshi Fukushima, the chef-owner of La Maison de la Nature Goh, named among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants. Rather

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「 好 吃 是 好 吃， 但 觉 得 有 点 无 聊 啊。 」 这 是 Tripradap

Anand 以前对豆腐的看法。中泰混血的她，从小就吃 着这种平凡的主食，也一直没想过这种食物可以有其 「在那天前，我并没发现豆腐 他的可能。Tripradap 说 ： 的无限潜力。 」 「那天」其实是她与丈夫 Gaggan Anand 首次光 临日本福冈「三原豆腐店」的日子。身为主厨兼老板，

Gaggan 经营的知名两星级曼谷餐厅「Gaggan」，已是 《亚洲五十最佳餐厅》榜单的四连冠。 老练如他们两人也不曾体验过这样的豆腐菜单。 三原家族拥有两家居酒屋，皆采用邻近的自家豆腐厂 制品，上述位于福冈的便是其中一家。 「kinu」绢豆腐 ，也就是 质地如奶油，非常柔滑细致。新鲜的「yuba」 油豆腐皮，风味高雅，口感软嫩。 「atsu-age」炸豆腐 经过高温酥炸，刚好达到金黄的酥脆口感。而「tonyu」 则是豆乳，加入一点日式高汤提味，可作为素面的沾酱。 「我吃到这道料理时，把那豆乳酱给 Tripradap 笑着说 ： 喝个精光，还向服务生多要了一些。我心里一直惦记 着这道菜，这至今仍是我的最爱。 」 那顿饭吃到一半，Tripradap 已决心将此概念带回 曼 谷， 丈 夫 也 举 手 赞 成。 尽 管 已 是 名 厨，Gaggan 仍 谦冲自牧，平和耐心地向豆腐店老板 Hiroki Mihara 解 释他们的构想。经过两年漫长讨论，加上一年的探勘， 最终促成了独一无二的方案。这个别出一格的合作方 案由三大名厨领衔，包括 Hiroki、Gaggan，加上《亚 洲五十最佳餐厅》之一「La Maison de la Nature Goh」 的主厨兼老板 Takeshi Fukushima。他们并没有将豆腐 店的休闲居酒屋风格原封不动地搬回曼谷，而是将三 方各自的烹饪特色、料理诠释，融合到新的顶级无菜

Wagyu roll with uni and yuba Ikura and avocado cream with okara chips Monkfish liver with miso-cured tofu

海胆豆皮和牛卷 鲑鱼卵酪梨霜佐豆渣脆片 安康鱼肝佐味噌腌豆腐

Lotus-root ball and yuki tofu in dashi soup with zuwai crab 日式藕球雪豆腐汤佐松叶蟹

TASTING DESTINATION

单豆腐料理餐厅中，将平凡的食材升华至新境 界。 三人共同设计当季菜单，Hiroki 和 Takeshi 挑选日本食材，Gaggan 则提供地道的菜式灵 感，以及即时的回馈与支援。Tripradap 负责餐 厅的日常营运，从会计、人手以至营销，都由 她一手包办。她说： 「餐厅的所有事都由我负责， 」 但厨房则全权交给新主厨 Yushi Takayama。 多达十二道的无菜单料理，总是以最纯粹 美好的三原豆腐作开场。前版本为冰凉的豆乳， 加入些许清爽、芳香的柚子酱。冬日版则以一 小碗新鲜的自制豆腐搭配昆布高汤、香料、紫 苏鲜花来开启饕客的味蕾。这是唯一一款在曼 谷店午、晚餐前，现场制作的豆腐。Tripradap 说： 「因为这款豆腐工序较单纯，采用来自日 本的特殊制作机器。 」为确保新鲜，每两天都 会从三原豆腐工厂引进制作用的豆乳。 其他豆腐制品及大部分原料都远从日本 进口，就连制作用水都是每周从日本瓶装输 入，与佐贺县的鹿岛豆腐厂采用相同的水源。 」 「Hiroki 先生尝过曼谷的水，说不适合做豆腐。

Tripradap 解释，这是因为 PH 值差异以及水豆 气味不相容的关系。 豆腐料理一道接一道如巡游般鱼贯而出， 令人赞叹的食材搭配与开创性的独特摆盘令人 目不暇给。高纤高蛋白的豆腐渣，巧妙使用了 豆腐制程中的泥状副产品。中空的笔柿，则放 入香醇浓厚的豆腐白芝麻膏，上方再放上鲣鱼 及火腿。豆腐松泡则将空气般轻盈的质地导入 味噌花椒叶椭斑马鲛料理。加入了蘑菇、培根、 切达奶酪的豆乳霜，放进面包屑中翻滚几圈， 置入热油中，起锅即为美味的豆乳可乐饼。 豆皮、味噌腌豆腐、雪豆腐、笊豆腐、木 棉豆腐、豆乳意式冰淇淋、豆腐巧克力，当然 还有 Hiroki 的招牌 — 豆乳高汤酱佐素面，全都 是无菜单料理中的闪亮之星。 「我们清楚，豆腐在世人 Tripradap 表示 ： 眼中就是一样不起眼的食材，人们觉得这不过 就是豆子跟水罢了。而这就是我们想藉由餐厅 去改变大众的想法，让大家知道，豆腐也隐含 着无限奥妙。 」 Momen tofu and A5 wagyu shabu shabu 木棉豆腐及A5和牛涮涮锅

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TASTING DESTINATION

than simply recreate the casual izakaya in Bangkok, they would draw on the diverse experience and culinary expression of each partner to launch a tofu omakase fine-dining experience that would raise the humble ingredient to new heights.

The three partners collectively plan seasonal menus based on ingredients that Mihara and Fukushima select from Japan, and Gaggan provides on-the-ground inspiration, support, and feedback. Tripradap handles all the day-to-day operations of the restaurant, from accounting to human resources to marketing, “everything,” she brightly admits, “except the cooking,” which is managed by new head chef Yushi Takayama.

The twelve-course omakase menu always begins with a simple dish that invites guests to appreciate the pure flavor of Mihara tofu. A previous edition featured chilled soy milk with a smidgen of refreshingly aromatic yuzu paste. The winter menu starts the degustation with a small bowl of fresh homemade tofu accompanied by kombu dashi, yakumi , and a fresh shiso flower. It is the only tofu currently made in-house in Bangkok every morning and afternoon before the lunch and dinner services. “It’s the least complicated tofu to make,” says Tripradap, “and we use a special machine from Japan.”

To ensure freshness, they also use soy milk imported every two days from the Mihara Tofu Factory.

All of the other tofu products as well as the majority of other ingredients are imported from Japan. Even the water, bottled from the same source used by the tofu factory in Kashima in Saga Prefecture, is imported on a weekly basis. “Mihara-san tasted the water here in Bangkok and said we could not use it to make tofu,” Tripradap says, explaining that the pH levels differed and the flavors of the beans and water would not blend properly.

Course after course, guests are dazzled by a parade of tofu dishes that feature inspired pairings and innovative presentations. Okara chips, high in fiber and protein, make delightful use of the pulpy by-product of the tofu production process. A thick, rich shira-ae dressing of tofu and sesame paste is served inside a hollowed-out Japanese persimmon and topped with bonito and ham.

Tofu espuma introduces a light airy texture to a dish of grilled Spanish mackerel with kinome and miso sauce.

Soy milk cream is mixed with mushrooms, bacon, and cheddar cheese, then coated in bread crumbs and deepfried into croquettes.

Yuba, miso-cured tofu, yuki tofu, zaru tofu, momen tofu, soy milk gelato, tofu chocolate, and, of course, Mihara’s signature tofu milk dashi with somen all make an appearance on the menu.

“We know that the general impression of tofu is that it isn’t fancy,” says Tripradap. “People think it just comes from beans and water. But we want to change the way they think and help them see that it can be much more than they ever imagined possible.”

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“We know that the general impression of tofu is that it isn’t fancy.

People think it just comes from beans and water.

But we want to change the way they think and help them see that it can be much more than they ever imagined possible.

我们清楚，豆腐 在世人眼中就是 一样不起眼的食 材，人们觉得这 不过就是豆子跟 水罢了。而这就 是我们想藉由餐 厅去改变大众的 想法，让大家知 道，豆腐也隐含 着无限奥妙。”

Soy milk gelato with chiffon cake and fresh soy milk over strawberry sauce 豆乳意式冰淇淋佐戚风蛋 糕配新鲜草莓酱豆乳

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青咖喱鳕鱼伴红菜头

DAVID HARTUNG

Cod Fish in Green Curry, Beetroot

PRESENTED BY SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK

泰式现代风

taking thai modern The talented head chef of Bangkok’s Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin puts a daringly contemporary spin on classic Thai flavors.

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Head Chef Chayawee (Berm)

PRESENTED BY SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK

Salt-baked Beetroot with Sweetbreads is great paired with green curry 盐焗红菜头配甜面包与青咖哩的味道非常匹配

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

F R OZ E N R E D C U R R Y served like ice cream and bites of lobster encased in gelatinous pearls that melt in the mouth with each sip of tom yam soup don’t sound like traditional Thai cuisine. Nor are they meant to.

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin at Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok boldly bills itself as a “modern Thai fine dining restaurant,” and the accent is unabashedly on that first word.

Chayawee Suthcharitchan, Sra Bua’s audacious head chef, impressively reconfigures the familiar flavors of traditional Thai cooking to present a constantly evolving array of inventive food that has won the restaurant a Michelin star and brought it international recognition.

“I loved eating and I liked cooking,” says Suthcharitchan of the genesis of his culinary career. “So on the weekends I’d cook for my friends and we’d enjoy it together. And then I started wondering about making Western food – Thai food I knew. I wanted to learn the techniques of Western cooking, so I went to culinary school in the US for a short period.

And I found out that maybe this was what I was looking for in my life at that time. And I just kept on cooking.”

After his training at Collin College, Suthcharitchan stayed on to work for a couple of years in Dallas before going on to New York for a time.

The biggest influence on the development of his approach undoubtedly began with his association with renowned chef Henrik Yde Andersen, who, says Suthcharitchan, inspired him with “a different point of view.”

Andersen, who’d been trained in classic French techniques, experienced

冷冻红咖哩冰淇淋和珍珠状的凝胶龙虾肉，配 上 泰 式 酸 辣 汤 后， 在 口 中 融 化 开 来， 这 听 起 来不像是传统的泰式料理。是的，它本来就不 是。曼谷暹罗凯宾斯基酒店的餐厅「Sra Bua

by Kiin Kiin」大胆地自称是一家「现代泰式精 致料理餐厅」 ， 还 特 别 强 调「 现 代 」 两 个 字。 大 胆 创 新 的 餐 厅 主 厨 Chayawee Suthcharitchan 精彩地重新诠释了传统泰式料理中为人熟 悉的风味，献上不断演变的创意餐点，这亦使 餐厅摘下米其林之星，并享誉国际。 「我 谈及烹饪生涯的起源，Chayawee 说 ： 喜欢享受美食， 也喜欢烹饪各种佳肴。 」他续说： 「我会在周末为朋友下厨，然后一起享用。在熟 知泰国菜后，我开始对西式料理产生兴趣，想 学习西式的烹饪技巧，所以我在美国的厨艺学 校待了一阵时间。由此，我发现烹饪就是我人 生理想，于是就一直沉浸于此。 」 在接受科林学院的训练后，Chayawee 在 美国达拉斯继续工作了几年，然后又在纽约待 了一段时间。与名厨 Henrik Yde Andersen 的 合 作 很 大 程 度 地 影 响 了 Chayawee 的 职 涯 发 展。Chayawee 说，Henrik 以「 不 同 的 观 点 」 启发了他。Henrik 曾受过专业的法式厨艺训练， roads to siam

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a culinary epiphany on a trip to Thailand in 2000 and never looked back.

His original Michelin-starred Kiin Kiin restaurant, opened in 2006 in Copenhagen, has broken the mold for Thai cuisine and introduced the world to a new way of appreciating its flavors.

Today, Andersen oversees operations at Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin, which he visits four times a year. The restaurant’s imaginative seasonal menus, creative collaborations between Suthcharitchan and Andersen, take the form of artfully presented performances. Courses are carefully choreographed to make the most of at-their-peak ingredients in the service of a heightened delivery of uniquely Thai flavor profiles.

The current eight-course Summer Journey menu, featuring produce that evokes the essence of the season, is a case in point. It begins with

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2000 年在泰国旅行时突然对于烹饪有了顿悟， 由此一路向前。他创办的米其林星级餐厅「Kiin Kiin」于 2006 年在哥本哈根开幕，打破了泰国 菜的窠臼，向世界展现了品味泰式料理的全新 方式。 如今，Henrik 一年会到「Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin」四次，以视察餐厅运营状况。餐厅独创 的时令菜单由 Chayawee 和 Henrik 联手打造， 以艺术的表演形式来呈现两人之间的创意合 作。餐点经过精心设计，融合最完善的厨技与 最新鲜的食材，献上独特的泰式风味。 目前推出的夏季之旅菜单，八道菜都蕴藏

PRESENTED BY SIAM KEMPINSKI HOTEL BANGKOK

← Maine Lobster Salad, Frozen Red Curry 缅因州龙虾沙拉 配冷冻红咖哩 → Mango with Sticky Rice

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

芒果糯米饭

intriguing snacks and street-food bites with names like Eatable Plastic Bag, Lotus in Lotus, Yellow Curry Cornetto, and Laksa on the Beach.

Following courses include Thai Ceviche with Halibut, Passion Fruit, Tangerine; Larb Duck Salad with Foie Gras, Mint; and Chanterelle Mushrooms Flan and Foamy Aromatised Coconut Milk. The dramatic finale, a dessert named Flowers of Thailand that is inspired by the work of artist Vers Yves Klein, is accompanied by Leaves of Thailand’s Tea with pandan and kaffir lime.

“Some Thai chefs,” says Suthcharitchan, “still love to cook traditional food, but others try something different – it all depends on what you like.

Come to Sra Bua with an open mind and you’ll find a different experience, a very memorable experience.”

了夏日精华。首先是趣味盎然的开胃小品和街 头小食，如「可食用塑料袋」 、 「莲中莲」 、 「黄 咖喱牛角包」和「海滩上的叻沙」 。 接下来的餐点还包括百香果柑橘渍泰式生 比目鱼、薄荷鹅肝酱鸭肉沙律、鸡油菌蘑菇馅 饼佐泡沫香甜椰奶。菜单以梦幻的甜点作结， 这道「泰国之花」伴以香兰叶和柠檬叶，灵感 源自艺术家 Vers Yves Klein 的作品。 「有些泰国厨师只喜欢烹 Chayawee 说 ： 調传统泰国菜式，有些人则会尝试不同的东西， 这都取决于个人喜好。欢迎顾客敞开心扉来到 ，体验一场全新难忘的飨宴。 」 『Sra Bua』 roads to siam

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PRESENTED BY SO SOFITEL BANGKOK

把酒言欢在云端

the height of cool HI-SO bar delivers Bangkok’s warmest nightlife vibe with the coolest view in town.

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当琥珀色的午后已转为灰蓝缎色的薄暮，成千

↗

上万的都会灯光开始照亮曼谷的天际线，勾勒

Banana Whiskey Sour

出夜生活的轮廓。从地平线散发出的光辉，仿 佛都聚焦在曼谷索菲特特色酒店的二十九及

↗↗

三十层。当顾客在「HI-SO rooftop bar」用餐，

Choya Blossom

便可将如此动人的魔幻景色尽收眼底。 顾客从大片落地窗包围的下层，循着楼梯 往上走，便可来到气氛怡人的露天楼顶。黑色

→ Lumpini’s Pride

的金属梁柱包围座位区及六角形的现代风餐桌。 大胆的顾客，大可选择围着半身高玻璃墙的座

→→

位，体验与无尽深空相隔一线的景致。

SO Amaretto Thyme

「HI-SO」很快地成为曼谷必去的聚会首选， 大批内行的本地人、外国人及游客们慕名而来。 然而，这个糅合前卫风格和高度社交元素的场 所，彰显多重魅力，而极富特色的酒吧环境只 是其一。 曼谷索菲特特色酒店的酒水部经理 Kishan Rampersad 以其创新思维，亲手打造「HI-SO」

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

EVENING’S AMBER GLOW softens to a satin blue-gray dusk, and a billion glimmering flecks begin to delineate the urban excitement of Bangkok’s spectacular skyline. It’s the magic moment at HI-SO rooftop bar, the pulse-quickening time when night has arrived and the sweep of light across the horizon comes into dazzling focus from the vantage point of SO Sofitel Bangkok’s twenty-ninth and thirtieth floors.

A staircase leads the way from the glassed-in lower level to the intimate, open-to-the-stars rooftop. Black metal arches frame seating and tables designed in a modern hexagonal motif.

The daring choose seats that hug a waist-high glass barrier, all that separates them from the vertiginous infinity beyond.

HI - SO has quickly become one of Bangkok’s must-beseen-at gathering places for in-the-know locals, expats, and visitors to the city. For this often edgy and highly sociable mix, the bar’s über -dramatic setting is only part of the appeal.The creative force behind HI-SO’s sophisticated menu of customcrafted drinks is SO Sofitel Bangkok’s beverage director Kishan

PRESENTED BY SO SOFITEL BANGKOK

“That introduction into the culture for the first-time guest, and even the returning guest, is what we’re about.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

能带给新顾客与回头客这种愉快的文化印象，就是我们最大的期望。”

Rampersad, or “ SO Kish,” as he is known in the hotel’s style of address. A seasoned cocktail consultant, he grew up in the US and lived and worked across Asia before arriving in Bangkok four years ago. “We’re like a little family here,” he says of HI-SO’s team culture.

“It’s a very welcoming place and I feel like when you come here, you feel you’re part of it. We try to imitate that feeling in the cocktails we’re creating.”

The standout array of very welcoming cocktails can only be appreciated in the tasting. Ten signature drinks lead the list, from Lychee Rose Martini to Butterfly Bellini to Banana Whiskey Sour. Of this last, made from Jim Beam bourbon, banana liqueur, fresh lime, bitters, and sugar syrup, SO Kish notes, “We were trying to create something a little bit different, and here, banana was the insight. It’s nothing overly complex, a whiskey sour with slight hints of banana coming through, a little bit sweeter than a traditional version.”

Another HI-SO original is Lumpini’s Pride, named for the lush, expansive park that the bar overlooks. A base of Smirnoff Vodka and tonic water is embellished with fresh rosemary, grapefruit syrup, Campari, and Martini Rosso. “It builds a nice complexity,” says SO Kish, “and it’s enjoyed by a lot of guests as more of an aperitif-style drink before they go into the fine-dining restaurant.”

SO Amaretto Thyme is an intriguing blend of Amaretto, Jim Beam, fresh lime, homemade thyme syrup, bitters, and elderflower and orange foam. “When I first got here,” says SO Kish, “the portfolio was missing some sort of digestif, so this is a subtle twist on an American sour. The hint of bourbon just takes it to the next level, and a bit of thyme syrup and the two dashes of bitters bring out the nutty flavors.

It’s very easy drinking, not intense or overly sweet, a nice alternative to a digestif.”

Also on offer are classic cocktails on request, fruity mocktails, aperitifs, wines by the glass, imported beers, premium spirits by the bottle, and a list of boutique-spirit shots. Accompanying the libations is a snack selection of pizzas, cold cuts, Asian bites, comfort plates, salads, and sweets.

Above and beyond the stellar menu, SO Kish puts the emphasis on HI-SO’s convivial ambience. “That’s really what Thailand is,” he says, “the feeling, the hospitality. That introduction into the culture for the first-time guest, and even the returning guest, is what we’re about. HI-SO is good food, good drinks, and people.”

精采多样的客制化酒水菜单。根据酒店文化被称 、已是老练调酒顾问的他在美国长 为「SO Kish」 大，曾至阿布达比、杜拜、越南、寮国工作，四 年前才在曼谷落脚。 谈及「HI-SO」的团队文化， 他说： 「这里就像个大家庭，所有人一起奋斗打拼。 气氛非常热情友好，往来的顾客应该都能感同身 受，仿佛他们也是团队一员。这种亲切的滋味正 是我们在调酒时希望呈现的要素。 」 怡人的、出色的系列调酒，当然得通过品尝 才能领会。十款招牌调酒领衔列出，有荔枝玫瑰 马丁尼、蝴蝶贝里尼等，还有一款是香蕉威士忌 酸酒，这款酒由占边波本、香蕉利口酒、新鲜青 「我们 柠、苦精、糖浆等混和制成。SO Kish 说 ： 想创造与众不同的作品，香蕉就刚好点题。威士 忌酸酒的气味配上隐约透出的香蕉味道，单纯简 约，比传统版本稍甜。 」另一款 HI-SO 原创酒称作 Lumpini 的骄傲，由酒吧向外俯瞰，那葱郁、广 阔的 Lumpini 公园便是这款调酒的由来。以皇冠 伏特加与汤力水为基底，加入新鲜迷迭香、葡萄 柚糖浆、金巴利、马丁尼苦艾酒点缀。SO Kish 说： 「这款调酒的层次感交叠而出，许多顾客在精致餐 厅用餐前，会来一杯当开胃酒。 」百里香苦杏酒是 一款融合了苦杏酒、占边波本、新鲜青柠、自制 百里香糖浆、苦精、接骨木花柑橘泡的奇妙调酒。 SO Kish 说 ： 「刚来的时候，菜单上少了餐后酒，

于是我把美国酸酒稍加改良。波本的香气画龙点 睛，少许百里香糖浆及两小匙苦精更突显坚果芳 香。喝起来相当顺口，不烈也不太甜，替代餐后 酒的好选择。 」除上述特制调酒外，经典调酒亦能 因应需求客制，另有无酒精调酒、餐前酒、单杯 葡萄酒、进口啤酒、优质瓶装烈酒，以及一系列 精品小杯烈酒。而酒类的好拍档， 如披萨、 冷切肉、 小点、沙拉以及甜点等，当然也不会缺席。 令人眼睛一亮的菜单背后，SO Kish 也希望 「泰 营造「HI-SO」欢乐活泼的用餐气氛。他说 ： 国就是这样，体验亲切、待客热情。能带给新顾 客与回头客这种愉快的文化印象，就是我们最大 的 期 望。HI-SO 钻 研 的 不 只 是 优 质 料 理 与 调 酒， 更注重温暖的互动与关怀。 」 roads to siam

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泰式精粹

THE ESSENCE OF THAI NAAM’s talented sous chef reveals the authentic heart of one of the world’s great cuisines.

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LAPA MACAU

Thai Pomelo-Prawn Salad tiger prawns, coconut cream, crushed peanuts, palm sugar, chili 泰式暹逻香草柚子虾沙律 虎虾、椰奶、碎花生、棕榈糖、辣椒

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LAPA MACAU

→ Lamb Shank Braised in Red Curry Sauce peanuts, sliced ginger, crispy shallots, pearl shallots 红咖喱煨羊膝 花生、姜片、炸葱酥、珍珠洋葱

“I LIKE THINGS TO BE just as they should

be,” says Nukorn Satruphinat, hovering over a steaming plate of khao soi kai and fastidiously adjusting the crispy fried noodles until they sit perfectly. “But there’s no need to lose your head over things.”

As sous chef at NAAM, Grand Lapa Macau’s signature Thai restaurant, Satruphinat possesses a measured demeanor far removed from that of the temperamental stereotype. Born and raised in Surin, a northeastern province of Thailand, Satruphinat spent his early years, like so many other creative chefs, watching his mother prepare food for the family. “I started to help her cook at a very young age,” he says. “She was so happy and calm in the kitchen, and that’s what inspired my culinary journey.”

After working in Thailand for years, Satruphinat made his way to Macau and began his ascent at NAAM : “I went from first cook to demi chef de partie, to chef de partie, to junior sous chef, and now to sous chef.” While many Thai restaurants are busy “fusing and confusing,” NAAM remains dedicated to serving the authentic flavors of classic Thai dishes. “I’m a traditional chef,” he says. “I cook food the way we make it in Thailand, not mixed with Western styles or flavors. When you dine at NAAM, you’re going to experience Thai food quintessentially, not transformed into something it’s not.”

Satruphinat describes his personal cooking style as ingredient-focused. “I love being able to use traditional Thai products,” he says. “I get inspired by good quality ingredients, something special that can really make a dish pop.” His tom yam kung , the popular spicy hot-and-sour prawn soup, is a tasty case in point. “The soup is made with galangal, kaffir lime leaf, straw mushrooms, tiger prawns, and lemongrass,” he says. “You can’t get much more Thai than that.”

The common association of curries and coconut with Thai food may make it seem simple to the untrained, but Satruphinat Sous chef Nukorn Satruphinat and Director Desmond Hill

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DAVID HARTUNG (4+PREVIOUS PAGE )

Crispy-Fried Egg Noodles Chiang Mai style

Boston Lobster Braised in Green Curry Sauce

yellow curry sauce, organic chicken, dried chili oil

fresh green peppercorns, sweet basil, Thai eggplant, kaffir lime leaf

清迈炒蛋面

青咖喱酱煨波士顿龙虾

黄咖喱酱、有机鸡肉、干辣椒油

新鲜青胡椒粒、甜罗勒、泰国茄子、柠檬叶

insists that it is in fact the complexities that give Thai cuisine its special stature.

“There are so many elements that contribute to the success of each dish,” he explains. “Most include all of the four core flavors – sweet, sour, salty, and spicy – but it’s how they are balanced with each other that gives every dish a unique profile.”

Since Satruphinat’s favorite flavor combination is sweet and sour, it’s no wonder that pomelo prawn salad has become one of his standout signatures.

Made with fresh Thai pomelo, tiger prawns, coconut cream, crushed peanuts, and chili, he characterizes it as the perfect flavor medley to wake the senses. “The chili adds another dimension,” he says. “Different chilies have different levels of heat that can so easily alter the balance. That’s what I love about being a chef,” he says, “the way the simplest things can change the entire personality of a dish.”

「 我 喜 欢『 适 得 其 Nukorn Satruphinat 说 ：

Nukorn 认为自己的烹饪风格是以食材

所』 ，但要避免『适得其反』 。 」他的双手游

为主角 ： 「我喜欢使用传统泰国食材，优质

移在热腾腾的泰北黄咖喱鸡麺，讲究地调整

的食材给予我灵感，也为料理带来画龙点

酥脆面条的摆盘方式，直到完美地呈现。

睛之妙。 」他的冬荫功，这种人人都爱的酸

身为澳门金丽华酒店「蘫泰国餐厅」的

辣虾汤，就是个美味的范例。他续指 ： 「汤

副主厨，Nukorn 拥有一股与众不同的气质。

底是用南姜、青柠叶、草菇、虎虾和柠檬

他在泰国东北部素辇府出生长大，如同许多

草熬制而成，没有比这更具有泰式风味了。 」

极具创意的主厨一样，他小时候都看着母亲

在一般人眼里，咖喱、椰子与泰国料理

为家人料理三餐。他说 ： 「我很小的时候就

间的关系看起来理所当然、毫不复杂，但事

开始帮忙做饭，母亲在厨房里总是笑容满面、

实上，Nukorn 认为泰国菜的特殊性就在于

气定神闲，这为我的烹饪生涯带来启发。 」

其「繁杂性」 。他解释 ： 「一道成功的料理归

在泰国工作几年后，Nukorn 就前往澳

功于众多元素，大多数料理都包括四种核心

门发展，并开始在「蘫泰国餐厅」步步高升，

味道，即甜、酸、咸、辣，随着这四种味道

他说： 「我一路从厨工、厨师领班、厨师主管、

相互之间的平衡，让每道菜都独具风味。 」

初级厨师长、直到现在担任副主厨。 」当许

「酸甜」是 Nukorn 最喜欢的风味组合，

多泰国餐厅汲汲营营于无国界融合料理时，

因此香草柚子虾沙律成为了他的招牌菜之一。

「蘫」仍然一心致力于正宗的泰国风味料理。

混合新鲜泰国柚子、虎虾、椰奶、碎花生和

「我是个传统的厨师，按照泰国 Nukorn 称 ：

辣椒，被形容为唤醒五官感受的完美风味。

既有的烹调方式来料理，不参杂西式风格或

他说 ： 「辣椒替沙律添加了另一个维度，不同

口味，所以当客人在『蘫泰国餐厅』用餐时，

辣椒拥有不同辣度，很容易改变既有的平衡。

享用到的是正宗的泰式美食，而非新派的泰

最简单的食材就足以改变整道料理的风味，

式料理。 」

这就是我身为厨师最引以为乐的地方。 」 roads to siam

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珍宝与共

sharing its treasures Sabatino Tartufi brings the luxurious and complex flavors of Italian truffles to the world.

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PRESENTED BY

all about truffles

Minced-scallop-stuffed crab in carrot and chicken broth 胡罗卜鸡汤炖干贝蟹肉

香港 JW 万豪酒店中菜厅行政总厨邓家濠认为 ： 「在选 用各式松露产品时，追求味道上的平衡十分重要，如与 中性或细致的食材搭配时，只需少量使用。 」黑松露白 米奶油伴脆米是邓主厨的殿堂级甜点，上述美味技巧在 这款甜点中展露无遗 ：松露粉轻铺于甜点的表面，增添 细腻的繁复感，却不会喧宾夺主影响白米奶油的味道， 主厨更巧妙地利用视觉上的阴阳调和来象征味觉上的协 调感。 两年前，萨巴提诺松露进入香港市场。由此开始， 邓主厨与香港过百位顶级厨师成为萨巴提诺松露系列 优质产品的忠实爱好者。萨巴提诺亚洲区董事 Alberto 「萨巴提诺天然黑松露粉是一款依照家传 Perez 表示 ： 秘方而研发出的革命性黑松露调味料，能让简单的菜式 幻化成令人难忘的用餐体验。 」 邓主厨在他的红菜头菌菇粿中，加入少量萨巴提 诺松露酱油提味，再以萨巴提诺新鲜松露为整道料理作 结，创造致密的余韵。而胡萝卜鸡汤炖干贝蟹肉是另一 道现代料理，邓主厨加入松露粉、黑松露酱和新鲜萨巴 提诺夏季松露，大大引出了海鲜本身的鲜甜美味。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“THE RIGHT BALANCE is vital when using any truffle product,” says

Jayson Tang, Chinese executive chef at JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong. “Only a small amount is needed when pairing with neutral or delicate ingredients.” A delicious case in point is Tang’s heavenly dessert of rice cream, crisped rice, and Sabatino Tartufi Truffle Zest. The light dusting of Truffle Zest makes for a sophisticated finish that adds nuanced complexity without dominating the subtle taste of the rice cream, and the chef’s clever yin and yang presentation serves as a visual symbol of harmony achieved.

Tang is among more than a hundred of the city’s leading chefs who’ve become devotees of Sabatino Tartufi’s line of premium products since the company entered the Hong Kong market two years ago. “Truffle Zest is a revolutionary black truffle seasoning based on a secret family recipe,” says Alberto Perez, Asia Director, Sabatino. “It remains one of his favorites for its power to transform the simplest of dishes into memorable dining experiences.”

In his beetroot and mixed mushroom dumpling, Tang adds a splash of Sabatino Tartufi Truffle Soy Sauce to intensify the umami flavor, completing the dish with Sabatino fresh truffles for an exquisite lingering finish. His modern minced-scallop-stuffed crab in carrot and chicken broth uses Truffle Zest, Black Truffle Sauce, and Sabatino fresh summer truffle to bring wonderful depth and dimension to the seafood’s fresh delicacy.

With Oprah Winfrey and Nobu Matsuhisa among its celebrity fans, Sabatino Tartufi has become the world’s largest truffle company, but it continues as the same family business that was established in Umbria in 1911. Fusing innovation with tradition, its products now include sauces, oils, maple syrup, honey, salt, soy sauce, butter, pâté, zest, and whole and sliced truffles in olive oil.

The company also provides worldwide availability of ultra-quality fresh white truffles from October to December, black winter truffles from November to March, and black summer, or Burgundy, truffles from May to September. “Consistency is key,” says Tang, “and it’s great that Sabatino Tartufi can supply Hong Kong with fresh truffles all year round.”

More information is available from Hong Kong distributor Luen Kee Hoo Co. Ltd (www.luenkee.com, 852 2548 7111) or contact the direct office of Sabatino Asia at 852 3956 8059.

因受到 Oprah Winfrey 和松久信幸等名人的推崇， 于 1911 年在意大利翁布里亚成立的百年家族传承企业 萨巴提诺松露，现已成为世界上最大的松露公司。融合 创新与传统，萨巴提诺松露产品种类涵盖酱料、油、枫 糖浆，蜂蜜、盐、酱油、奶油、肝酱、调味粉、橄榄油 渍的整粒和切片松露。 萨巴提诺松露期间限定产品系列包括有十月至 十二月期间的全球最优质的新鲜白松露，十一月至三月 的黑冬松露， 以及五月至九月的黑色夏季或勃艮第松露。 邓主厨说 ： 「品质的一致性是关键，再者萨巴提诺松露 还能一年四季都为香港带来新鲜松露。 」

更 多 资 讯， 请 见 联 记 号 有 限 公 司 网 站 www.luenkee. com 或电洽 852 2548 7111，亦可致电 852 3956 9059 與萨巴提诺亚洲分公司联络。

Beetroot and mixed mushroom dumpling 红菜头菌菇粿 roads to siam

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PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

味觉平衡 极致追求

pursuing a beautiful balance R E D L A CQ U E R E D D O O R S , exquisitely detailed, mark the entrance to Shang Palace at Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong. Guests stepping through them pause momentarily at the top of a marble staircase to look out over the main dining room. An elaborately carved and gilded wooden panel partially screens view of the tables and enhances the effect of imperial grandeur evoked by lofty ceilings, striking chandeliers, Sung-style paintings, and rich hues of scarlet and gold.

The ornate opulence of Michelin-starred Shang Palace, a mainstay of Cantonese culinary tradition for thirty-five years, offers the perfect setting for an equally sumptuous Hennessy & Food tasting menu, designed exclusively by Executive Chinese Chef Cheung Long Yin. Created to celebrate the enduring legacy of excellence of the illustrious Cognac house, it explores in intriguing ways how the versatility and complexity of Cantonese cuisine finds balance with the vivid aromas and richly textured flavor notes of Hennessy X.O. “You have to be very perceptive in pairing foods with Hennessy X.O because of its wide range of flavors and subtle undertones,” says Cheung. “The dishes must have robust ingredients that can match the complexity Stewed beef cheek, Sarcodon aspratus mushrooms, purple sweet potato purée 黑虎掌菌扣牛脸颊伴紫薯蓉

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Hennessy X.O and classic Cantonese cuisine are skillfully matched by a seasoned master.

Executive Chinese Chef Cheung Long Yin 香宫中菜行政总厨张浪然

and depth of the Cognac, but you don’t want everything on the menu to be overly rich.”

Three seafood appetizers paired with Hennessy V.S.O.P begin the meal. The delicate flavors of the sautéed abalone, marinated scallop, and deep-fried crab claw work well with the Cognac’s fruity and honeyed bouquet and its refreshing, oaky finish. As the meal progresses to X.O-paired dishes, flavors and textures shift in character and complexity to highlight the Cognac’s robust aromas and long-lasting finish.

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Braised shredded fish maw is served with thinly sliced bean sprouts and umami-rich, velvety-smooth broth.

Wonderfully aromatic, the broth is made from Jinhua ham, pork, and chicken that has been simmered for up to five hours. The dish is inspired by Cheung’s childhood memories of his father adding a splash of Cognac to a similar soup as a special embellishment.

Cheung’s stewed beef cheek dish has also been designed with nostalgic recollections in mind. “When I

PRESENTED BY HENNESSY

“Pairing Hennessy X.O with food is about pursuing a sophisticated balance between the two. 用料理搭配轩尼诗

X.O 其实就

是在追寻两者间的巧妙平衡。”

这个精美绝伦、细致如画的红漆大门，便是香港九龙 香格里拉大酒店的「香宫」餐厅入口。宾客一进门， 总是不禁驻足于顺坡而下的大理石阶梯前，俯视整个 用餐区。精心雕刻的镀金木屏风， 让厅内餐桌若隐若现， 也让巍然的天花板、精致的吊灯、仿宋图画、满目皆 是的赤金色调，看起来更有帝王将相富丽堂皇的风貌。 奢华的风格，是传统粤菜界三十五年的中流砥柱， 也是米其林星级餐厅「香宫」的特色，更是豪华轩尼 诗品尝菜单的绝佳搭配。这份菜单是中菜行政总厨张 浪然自豪的独家之作，专为历史辉煌的干邑白兰地酒 庄设计，颂扬酒庄历久不衰的传统。张总㕑天马行空 地将粤菜的多样、多层次性和轩尼诗 X.O 的优雅气息、 醇厚质地巧妙地平衡搭配。 张总厨说 ： 「设计搭配轩尼诗 X.O 的料理，需具 备敏锐的洞察力，因其带有的风味非常多样，余韵也 相当微妙。料理本身也要有相当的力度与厚度，才能 与干邑白兰地的多层次丰厚滋味相平衡，但是要注意， 菜单上也不能每道菜都那么浓重。 」 轩尼诗 V.S.O.P 配搭三款海鲜开胃菜是菜单的前 奏。金沙鲜鲍鱼、葱油玉带及酿蟹钳的细致口味，携 手果香丰富、蜜香萦绕、尾韵带有清新橡木调的轩尼 诗 V.S.O.P 干邑，构成无与伦比的组合。随着菜单推进， Braised shredded fish maw, bean sprouts, Hennessy X.O 红烧龙芽花胶条

之后菜式的口感、风味与层次亦有所不同，与轩尼诗 X.O 配搭时更能突显它的浓郁香气及悠长绵密的余韵。 红烧龙芽花胶条及丝般柔滑的鲜味高汤一同上桌。 以金华火腿、猪肉及鸡肉焖煮五个小时以上萃取而出 的精华汤汁，香气四溢、传香百里。张总厨的童年回 忆是这道料理的灵感来源，总厨的父亲会在类似的汤

DAVID HARTUNG

里加入一点干邑白兰地，作点缀提味。

went out to eat with my father, he’d have different kinds of beef dishes, like braised beef brisket paired with Cognac,” he says. “To elevate the experience of pairing Hennessy X.O at Shang Palace, I use premium ingredients like beef cheek and Sarcodon aspratus mushrooms and add a pop of color with purple sweet potato purée.

“Pairing Hennessy X.O with food is about pursuing a sophisticated balance between the two. The flavors are mutually enhanced and blend beautifully for a round and rich experience.”

张总厨的扣牛脸颊也是怀旧之作。他介绍 ： 「从前 每当与我父亲外出用餐，他总会点各式各样的牛肉料 理，例如炖牛腩配干邑白兰地。我自己作出改良，用 最上等的食材如牛脸颊、虎掌菌菇，来搭配轩尼诗 X.O， 以提升整体风味，最后放上一点紫薯蓉，为整道料理 妆点增色。 」 「用料理搭配轩尼诗 X.O 其实就是在追寻两者间 的巧妙平衡。运用得宜，两者将浑然一体、相辅相成， 入口自然圆滑醇厚。 」 roads to siam

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PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

绝代佳酿

DYNASTICALLY DELICIOUS

ROADS TO SIAM | TK |

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PRESENTED BY PATRÓN

DYNAST Y MARGARITA INGREDIENTS

METHOD

材料

调制方法

45ml Patrón Silver 15ml Patrón Citrónge Orange 7.5ml St-Germain 22.5ml fresh lime juice 7.5ml ginger syrup, such as Liber & Co.

3 fresh or canned lychees grapefruit salt for rim lime twist for garnish

1. Rim a rocks glass with grapefruit salt.

2. Place lychees in a cocktail shaker.

3. Add remaining ingredients to shaker with ice and shake hard to chill and combine.

4. Double strain onto fresh ice in a rocks glass.

5. Garnish with a lime twist.

45ml 培恩银樽龙舌兰酒 15ml 培恩柑橘味龙舌兰利口酒 7.5ml 圣哲曼接骨木花利口酒 22.5ml 新鲜青柠汁 7.5ml 姜汁糖浆， 如利伯牌即可 3个 新鲜或罐头荔枝

西柚盐饰边

装饰用青柠卷

1. 把古典杯的边缘抹上西柚盐。 2. 将荔枝放入鸡尾酒调酒器中。 3. 将所有原料放入鸡尾酒调酒 器，并加入冰块用力摇匀冷 却，混合均匀。 4. 重复过滤后倒在新鲜冰块上， 装入古典杯中。 5. 饰以青柠卷。

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Patrón Tequila’s annual search for the best margarita in the world has found its winner in Hong Kong.

Jay Khan, cocktail veteran and owner of COA bar, devised a drink inspired by traditional Cantonese cuisine. His creation, the Dynasty Margarita, now holds the title of Patrón Tequila 2019 Margarita of the Year. TK caught up with Khan to learn more about his winning formula.

§ 培恩龙舌兰酒厂

(Patrón Tequila) 一年一度的最佳玛格丽特大奖，已在香港揭晓。作为「COA」酒吧的调酒老将

兼店主，Jay Khan 以传统粤菜为灵感，设计出独一无二的作品，成功斩获大奖。这款「王朝玛 格丽特」现拥有培恩龙舌兰酒厂2019年度最佳玛格丽特的头衔。TK 连络上 Jay，以深入了解其 胜利配方：

What drew you to this competition?

I’m a bar owner now, so I don’t really have time to prepare for competitions. But Patrón Tequila’s Margarita of the Year, now in its fifth year, is different. The organizers approach a select number of bartenders and invite them to submit their takes on the margarita for a chance to win the title. My bar, COA, is Mexican and we do a lot with tequila, so I couldn’t resist!

How does it work?

Eight bartenders from around the world, including me, were asked to create margaritas using Patrón’s line of ultra-premium tequilas, together with ingredients inspired by their respective regions.

On International Margarita Day, February 22, our recipes were unveiled online. Then consumers voted for their favorite – I think there were over four million votes. We were invited to Mexico at the end of April for the results. I was shocked but happy to win, since it was quite competitive.

什么原因让您想参加这场赛事？ 身为酒吧店主，其实没有太多时间准备比 赛，但是面对迈入第五年的年度最佳玛格丽特 大赛，自然另当别论。主办方选出数位调酒师， 请他们以自己设计的玛格丽特参赛，角逐冠军 头衔。 「COA」是大量使用龙舌兰酒的墨西哥酒 吧，岂能让获奖机会从指间溜走？

赛事如何进行？ 八位来自世界各地的调酒师受邀参加，我 是其中一位。大家必须运用培恩酒厂的极优质 龙舌兰系列产品，融合各自的地方特色，调配 出心目中的最佳作品。在二月二十二国际玛格 丽特日，所有作品均在赛事网站公开，消费者 将自己神圣的一票投给最喜爱的作品，赛事共 收获四百多万份投票。四月底，众人在墨西哥 齐聚一堂，等待最后结果。因为赛事竞争非常 激烈，所以在得奖的那一刻，我真是又惊又喜。

How did you come up with your winning recipe?

The brief was to make a cocktail that was simple, that uses ingredients easy to find around the world, and that doesn’t require complicated equipment. I was born and brought up in Hong Kong and I’m really influenced by its culture, so I thought about ingredients that define my hometown.

Lychee is native to South China, and it comes into season and appears in markets every May. Ginger is very widely used in Cantonese cuisine, and it’s important in this recipe to balance the sweetness of the lychee – it adds bite to the drink. I wanted to use ingredients that spark nostalgia in Chinese people.

We chose Patrón Silver Tequila for its fresh, clean-tasting qualities and Patrón Citrónge Orange for the classic margarita taste and citrusy zing. My final ingredient was pomelo, a fruit Hong Kongers associate with good luck at Chinese New Year. I grate the rind, infuse it in salt, and use it to rim the margarita glass to deliver another level of citrus.

The Dynasty Margarita is very fruit-forward, refreshing, and approachable. It starts with pretty notes from the lychee, then the ginger kicks in, and it ends with a clean finish – very thirst-quenching and appealing. Now people are asking for it in our bar.

您如何设计出这款获胜作品？ 简单来说，我想做一款单纯的作品，材料 容易找到，也不需精密器材制作。在香港土生 土长的我，深受地方文化影响，因此也希望能 采用有本地特色的食材。 荔枝原产于中国南方，每年五月在街市中 几乎随处可见。姜则是粤菜里非常广泛使用的 食材，对于平衡荔枝的甜味起了关键作用，也 让作品更有风味。我期待这款调酒能勾起中国 人的思乡之情。 我选用培恩银龙舌兰以取其清新爽口滋 味，再加入培恩柑橘利口酒，让作品有经典的 玛格丽特口感与柑橘的活力。最后选用的食材 则是在香港有着「祝人新年好运」寓意的柚子。 取下其果皮，磨成果碎，放入盐水中浸泡，再 装饰于杯口边缘，又更添一层柑橘香气。 王朝玛格丽特以水果为主题，清爽又顺口。 荔枝香甜在入口后爆发，接着姜汁的微辣感袭 来，最后再以满口的清香收尾，非常解渴诱人。 现在酒吧顾客都会想来上一杯。 roads to siam

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INTERVIEW

大自然的召唤

call of nature Senior writer Mamie Chen chats with Vladimir Kojic, long-serving head sommelier at Gaggan, to learn what he and imaginative celebrity chef Gaggan Anand have cooked up for Wet, their newly opened natural wine bar.

§ 资深作家 Mamie Chen 采访「Gaggan」餐厅的资深首席侍酒师 Vladimir Kojic，了解他与创意名

厨Gaggan Anand如何共创新开幕的自然酒酒吧「Wet」。

How did the concept for Wet come about?

请问当初创办酒吧「Wet」的想法从何而来？

Gaggan asked me one day what my dream was, and I said to open a wine bar. Then he immediately said, “When do we open it?” The idea is to serve wines that I believe in alongside Gaggan’s soul food.

是开一间酒吧。他立刻問道 ： 「那我们什么时候可

有一天 Gaggan 问起我的梦想是什么，我回答 以来开一间？」我的想法就是献上我认可的美酒， 并与 Gaggan 的舒心料理相互辉映。

And the décor? I’m of course referring to the infamous entrance through a faux bathroom stall.

Gunn Lee, who is the co-owner and designer of Teens of Thailand, is responsible for the décor. We didn’t want a bar that looks like a French bistro or Italian cantina. We wanted something edgy, something Bangkok.

那么酒吧的装潢呢？尤其是那扇饱受议论的伪洗 手间入口。 作为酒吧「Teens of Thailand」的合伙人兼设 计师，Gunn Lee 统筹酒吧的室内装饰。相较于一 间看起来像法式或意式小酒馆的酒吧，我们想要的 是能够体现曼谷风格的新潮装潢。

That really explains for me what natural wine is, that wine shouldn’t be manipulated and it should show the human personality behind it. The most fascinating thing about natural wines for me is that I can feel that they’re still alive – that might sound strange to some people. If people are buying chicken and have the choice of free-range or industrial ones, I believe 99 percent would go for the free-range. I don’t understand why it’s any different when it comes to wine.

How often do you update your wine list?

I have around five hundred different wines in my cellar, but I only keep about two hundred on the list and rotate them on a weekly basis. At the moment, my greatest treasure is the wine from Andreas Tscheppe of Austria. Over the last few years, he’s been struggling to make more than three thousand bottles per year. When I asked for some, he gave me wine from his personal collection.

That’s one I don’t pour for everybody.

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性情。 」可否阐明引用此句的因由？ 这句话使我理解到什么才是自然酒，它不应该 被人为操纵，应该是要彰显其幕后功臣的个性。自 然酒吸引我的地方在于，我能感觉到它活生生的气 息，但对某些人来说这想法可能有些奇怪。比如， 在购买鸡肉时，如果可以选择自由放养或工业养殖 的鸡种，我相信百分之九十九的人都会选购放养的 鸡种。我认为，在选购葡萄酒时也应跟循类似准则。

请问您多久会更新一次酒单？ 我 的 酒 窖 里 大 约 有 五 百 种 不 同 的 酒， 但 我 只将其中大约两百种放在酒单中，并每周轮换一 次。目前，我最宝贝的收藏是来自奥地利 Andreas Tscheppe 酒庄的葡萄酒。过去几年以来，他都努力 酿酒，实现超过三千瓶的年产量。当我提出需求时， 他分享了他个人的收藏，这些是我不会分享给其他 人的美酒。

How do you divide your time between Wet and Gaggan?

请问您如何兼顾酒吧「Wet」和餐厅「Gaggan」？

Gaggan isn’t just a job for me, they’re my family. I still buy the wines, make the wine list, and do the wine pairings there. But in service, I’m at Wet every day.

人。我现在仍然会替「Gaggan」购买葡萄酒、制作

How does the food fit into the natural wine bar concept?

请问如何将美食融入自然酒酒吧的理念中？

When I joined Gaggan, a lot of people told me that Indian can’t go with wines, and I’m very happy that we were able to change that perception. The food at Wet is simple soul food from Gaggan and his head chef, Rydo Anton. We don’t do wine pairings at Wet, because for me a wine bar should be a fun place where people enjoy good wines, good food, and good music.

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菜单中，引用自然酒之父 Jules Chauvet 的名言： 「好酒必须看它的产地及年份，还有其酿造者的

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「Gaggan」不仅是我的工作，我也视他们为家 ，我每天都开工。 酒单、餐酒搭配。而在「Wet」

当我加入「Gaggan」时，很多人告诉我印度 料理不适合搭配葡萄酒，我很庆幸我们能够扭转这 样 的 想 法。Gaggan 和 主 厨 Rydo Anton 替「Wet」 设计出简单的舒心料理。我们不在「Wet」做餐酒 搭配。我认为，酒吧应该是个尽兴的地方，客人在 此应该尽情地享受美酒、美食和美妙的音乐。

DAVID HARTUNG

Tell me about this quote on the menu from Jules Chauvet, who’s called the father of the natural wine movement: “A fair wine must look where it comes from, the year it comes from, and have the guts of the person who made it.”

EVENTS

亚洲厨艺之巅

the best in macau Wynn Palace hosts Asia’s biggest restaurant awards event of the year.

ASIA’S 50 BEST RESTAURANTS 2019, the continent’s most antici-

2019 年「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」年度榜单可说是

pated, sought-after, and prestigious awards for culinary excellence, swept into town in late March with an extravagant display of glamour and gastronomy.

As the competition grows ever more intense by the year across a vast region that has seen exponential growth in the quantity and quality of fine-dining venues, the stakes have never been higher for restaurants hoping to gain access to the magic top fifty spots on the list.

Wynn Palace, the Forbes Five-Star luxury complex that is part of the Wynn Resorts entertainment empire, proved the ideal choice to host an international affair of such scope and magnitude. Serving as Official Venue Partner for the second year in a row, the resort presented a weeklong constellation of exciting events surrounding the awards ceremonies.

Some of the brightest stars in the culinary universe took part in presenting their original menus as part of the Wynn Guest Chef Dining Series .

Among them was British celebrity chef Simon Rogan, who partnered with Hong Kong luminary Vicky Lau to prepare a banquet of European dishes with Chinese influences at SW Steakhouse. Chef Fran Agudo of Barcelona’s famous Tickets tapas bar brought his cutting-edge small plates to Ristorante Il Teatro.

In an eight-hands lunch, four of Japan’s top chefs, Zaiyu Hasegawa, Hiroyasu Kawate, Yusuke Takada, and Takeshi Fukuyama, all from restaurants that have made the Asia’s 50 Best list, presented their innovative French-Japanese dishes at Mizumi. And, also at Mizumi, Chef Rodolfo Guzmán of renowned Boragó in Santiago, Chile, created an intensely flavorful South American experience with authentic ingredients.

On March 26, the fifty winning restaurants were announced at a gala

整个亚洲餐饮界最受瞩目、追捧、享负盛名的 最高指标，这股魅力无限的厨艺旋风早在今年 三月底席卷澳门。 数年来，亚洲精致餐厅的质与量成指数 倍增，赛事激烈度亦逐年上升，现到了前所未 有的炽热状态，所有餐厅都使出浑身解数，在 这顶尖赛场上一决雌雄。 永利度假村集团旗下的奢华综合度假村 永利皇宫，获得《福布斯旅游指南》五星荣誉， 这里拥有举办如此盛大聚会所需的气势与规 模。连续两年以官方场地合作伙伴身分参与盛 事，永利皇宫今年为与会者带来了为期一周的 一系列精华荟萃、引人赞叹的周边活动。 几位烹饪界的闪亮巨星各自发想原创料 理，共同准备永利客席名厨飨宴，包括英国名 厨 Simon Rogan 与香港大厨 Vicky Lau 在「永 利扒房」合作推出的中式欧餐飨宴，还有来 自巴塞隆纳「Tickets」餐酒馆的 Fran Agudo， 也在「帝雅廷」隆重献上划时代新颖佳肴。 八手同桌的午餐盛宴由四位跻身「亚洲

50 最佳餐厅」榜单的日本顶尖主厨长谷川在佑、 川手宽康、 高田裕介及福山刚携手合作， 在「泓」 日本料理，端出大胆前卫的法式日食。同样在 「泓」日本料理，智利圣地牙哥「Boragó」餐厅 主厨 Rodolfo Guzmán 也不遑多让，用最道地 的食材，将热情如火的南美风味带上日式餐桌。 roads to siam

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EVENTS

ceremony. Capturing the No. 1 spot from famed Gaggan, which had held first place for four years, was Odette, Chef Julien Royer’s gracious fine-dining destination in Singapore that features his sophisticated modern French cuisine.

A diverse array of leading restaurants in Hong Kong and Macau made the winners’ list: The Chairman (No. 11), 81⁄2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana (No. 12), Belon (No. 15), Amber (No. 21), Jade Dragon (No. 27), Vea (No. 34), Neighborhood (No. 37), Lung King Heen (No. 38), Seventh Son (No. 44), and Ta Vie (No. 50).

In addition, Wynn Palace’s own Wing Lei Palace, widely acclaimed for exceptional Cantonese cuisine, broke into the coveted rankings at No. 36. With its opulently appointed three-tiered dining room overlooking the dazzling water, music, and light shows of Performance Lake, Wing Lei Palace offers the remarkable creations of renowned Chef Tam Kwok Fung. As a World Champion of Chinese

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「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」名单已于 3 月 26 日大型 ， 晚宴中揭晓。今年击败四连冠知名餐厅「Gaggan」 荣获第一名的是新加坡现代精致法式料理餐厅 ，由主厨 Julien Royer 领军尽展高超厨艺。 「Odette」 港澳多家享誉盛名的餐厅当然也不让人专 「81⁄2 Otto e 美 于 前， 包 括「 大 班 楼 」(11 名 )、

Mezzo Bombana」(12 名 )、「Belon」(15 名 )、 「誉珑轩」(27 名 )、 「VEA」(34 「Amber」(21 名 )、 名 )、 「Neighborhood」(37 名 )、 「龙景轩」(38 名 )、 「家全七福」(44 名 )，还有「Ta Vie」(50 名 )。 除上述所提，永利皇宫旗下大受欢迎的顶级粤 菜餐厅「永利宫」也榜上有名，拿下第 36 名的佳绩。 华丽的三层内装结构，让宾客一边享用名厨谭国锋 精心烹调的美食佳肴，一边俯瞰表演湖中精彩的声 光水舞秀。 获得中餐烹饪世界锦标赛金奖的谭主

Cooking Gold Medalist, Tam is known for his innovative approach emphasizing natural healthfulness, peak seasonality, and a respect for the rich traditions of Cantonese cooking.

During the week, the spotlight was also on another honored chef, André Chiang, winner of Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants Lifetime Achievement Award 2018. The visionary inspiration behind some of the world’s most lauded Michelin-starred restaurants, Chiang recently opened the elegant Sichuan Moon at Wynn Palace. As its creative director, he offers diners a contemporary interpretation of the depth and complexity of classic Sichuan flavors.

One of the highlights of the week’s Asia’s 50 Best festivities was a Wynn Chef Dining Series event at Sichuan Moon on March 26. Chef Chiang and Chef Tam were joined by Chef Liu Guo Zhu of Wynn Macau’s Golden Flower in a tour-de-force demonstration of their protean powers, a sumptuous lunch of eight imaginative courses.

厨，料理风格不仅兼顾独特性及注重天然健康、 新鲜当季的原则，也体现对粤菜丰富传统的尊 重。除了谭主厨，2018 年「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」 终生成就奖得奖者江振诚主厨也是活动其间的 耀眼之星。他眼光独到、富有想像，是许多广 受好评的米其林星级餐厅的幕后推手。江主厨 近日于永利皇宫开设「川江月」 ，担任创意总监， 期望用现代手法，将经典川菜的层次与深度带 给所有宾客。 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」系列活动亦包括 3 月 26 日在「川江月」举办的永利名厨飨宴。江主 厨、谭主厨以及永利澳门「京花轩」的刘国柱 主厨，三人通力合作展现过人技巧，以一系列 八道菜的午膳套餐，向在场宾客展示变化万千 的源源创意。 roads to siam

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PRESENTED BY WINES OF GERMANY

缔结良缘六月天

june wedding Hong Kong celebrates a month-long match made in heaven: white asparagus and the white wines of Germany.

Dynasty at Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel 香港万丽海景酒店「满福楼」

Duddell’s 都爹利会馆

Coast at MGM Cotai 美狮美高梅「涛岸」

RIESLING WEEKS, now in its seventh year in Hong Kong, is a thirty-day extravaganza of the best of German wines, with the country’s most famous grape leading the way. From June 1 to 30, nearly a hundred venues will participate in the festive campaign by offering wine-pairing menus, wine flights, and free tastings.

This year’s special focus is on matching a whole array of the country’s finest white wines with another famed German specialty, succulent white asparagus. The season for this most regal of vegetables begins in mid-April and extends past St. John’s Day on June 24.

Germany’s elegant whites harmonize beautifully with the delicate texture and flavor of white asparagus. The wines’ subtle aromas enhance the fresh and earthy notes of the tender spears, bringing out their rich complexity on the palate.

Lightly poached asparagus with a buttery sauce goes well, for example, with a delicate silvaner, weissburgunder (pinot blanc) or gutedel (chasselas). If cooked with tarragon or parsley, the herb-infused spears are ideally balanced

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Riesling Weeks 已在香港深耕七年，是一个长达三十天的德 国美酒盛典，由知名的德国品种领衔展出。从六月一日至 三十日，将有超过百家酒馆餐厅一同欢庆，预备精心搭配的 餐酒菜单、方便鉴赏的套酒，以及免费试喝活动，期待诸位 贵宾到来。 今年与以往惯例不同的是将德国最优质的一系列白葡萄 酒，搭配另一项德国特产 – 饱满多肉的白芦笋。典雅的白芦 笋产季为每年的四月中，一直到六月二十四日的圣约翰节。 德国优雅的白葡萄血统，与白芦笋细致的质地搭配，相 互唱和，没有一丝违和。酒体散发的微妙香氛，强化了芦笋 嫩茎的新鲜、泥土质调，顿时口中层次交叠、绵延不绝。 烫过的白芦笋适合以顺滑美酒相佐，例如口感细致的西 白皮诺 (pinot blanc) 及莎斯拉 (chasselas) 等。 万尼 (silvaner)、 如果是与龙蒿、欧芹共煮的白芦笋，吸饱了草本香气，则以 灰皮诺 (pinot gris) 搭配为佳。不能不提的雷司令 (riesling)，

Alibi at the Cordis, Hong Kong 香港康得思酒店「Alibi」

Brasserie on the Eighth at Conrad Hong Kong 香港港丽酒店「怀欧叙」

Namo Avant Thai

by a grauburgunder (pinot gris). Riesling, of course, especially the off-dry style, is also an excellent complement to the flavorful vegetable. When a rich fish like pan-fried salmon, char, or trout accompanies it, the zesty acidity of a fine riesling helps to lighten and brighten the combination. And for asparagus dishes with intense tastes, a spätburgunder (pinot noir) proves just about perfect.

The variety of successful pairings seems endless, and throughout June, a distinguished group of Riesling Weeks participants has been invited to explore the possibilities. The restaurants, some of the most notable in Hong Kong and Macau, will be offering their original asparagus creations matched up with a selection of Germany’s choicest white wines.

The roster includes Duddell’s, Namo Avant Thai, and Sueño, as well as Mirage Bar & Restaurant and Dynasty at Renaissance Hong Kong Harbour View Hotel, Brasserie on the Eighth and Golden Leaf at Conrad Hong Kong, and Alibi and Ming Court at the Cordis, Hong Kong. Macau’s venues are Aux Beaux Arts at MGM Macau and Coast at MGM Cotai.

Sueño

特别是半干型雷司令，绝对也是搭配这种美味蔬果的不俗 之选。要是以口味浓厚的香煎三文鱼、红点鲑、鳟鱼来搭 配白芦笋的话，雷司令的鲜活酸气能让整道菜更轻盈、出众。 黑皮诺 (pinot noir) 则最适合与风味强烈的白芦笋料理配合， 组成无懈可击的一餐。 各种绝妙搭配一言难尽，整个六月 Riesling Weeks 将 由一群经验丰富的专家为您发掘无限可能。与会餐厅皆为 港澳区无人不晓的餐饮界翘楚，将以原创芦笋料理与德国 精选上等白酒搭配，为饕客带来惊喜。 到 现 场 参 与 盛 典 的 餐 厅 有「 都 爹 利 会 馆 」 、 「 Namo Avant Thai 」、「 Sueño 」、香港万丽海景酒店的「 Mirage

Bar & Restaurant 」及「满福楼」、香港港丽酒店的「怀 欧叙」以及「金叶庭」 、 香港康得思酒店的「 Alibi 」及「明 阁」 。澳门区的代表则有美高梅的「宝雅座」及美狮美高 梅的「涛岸」 。 roads to siam

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TK | ROADS TO SIAM

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Aaharn 5

Thai 1/F, Armoury Building 02, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环荷李活道10号大馆02座枪房1楼 q +852 2703 9111

18:30-23:00

COA 5

Cocktail bar Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环善庆街6-10号华善楼地下 q +852 2813 5787

Tue-Sat: 18:00-01:00

Sun: 17:00-01:00

Gaa 5

Indian 68/4 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Road Lumpini, Phathumwan, Bangkok 10330, Thailand

C

q +669 1 419 2424

M

Wed-Mon: 18:00-21:30

Y

HI-SO 屋顶酒吧 5

CM

Rooftop bar

MY

29th & 30th floor, SO Sofitel Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Road, Bangrak,

CY

Bangkok 10500, Thailand

CMY

q +66 2624 0000

K

17:00-01:00

Man Ho 万豪中菜厅 5

Cantonese

香港金钟道 88 号太古广场香港JW万豪酒 店 JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Hong Kong q +852 2810 8366

Lunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00

NAAM Thai Restaurant 灆泰国餐厅 5

Mihara Tofuten Bangkok 三原豆腐店 Japanese

Amizade, Macau 澳门友谊大马路956-1110号

159/3 South Sathorn Road Tungmahamek Sathron Bangkok, Thailand 10120 q +66 83 655 4245

澳门金丽华酒店 q +853 8793 4818

Lunch: 11:30-14:30, Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Closed on Tuesdays

Lunch: 12:00-14:30

Dinner: 18:30-22:00

Closed on Mondays

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DAVID HARTUNG

5

Thai Grand Lapa Macau, 956-1110 Avenida Da

DAVID HARTUNG

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Samsen 泰面 5

Thai street food 68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

nahm 5

香港湾仔石水渠街68号

Thai

q +852 2234 0001

COMO Metropolitan Bangkok, 27 S

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin 5

Lunch: 12:00-14:30;

Sathorn Rd, Khwaeng Thung Maha Mek,

Dinner: 18:30-23:00

Khet Sathon, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon

Road 991/9, 10330 Bangkok, Thailand q +66 2 162 9000

Lunch: 12:00-15:00

10120, Thailand q +66 2 625 3388

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:00 Dinner: 18:30-22:15

Saffron 尚坊 5

Thai Marginal, Flor de Lotus Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门银河™澳门 悦榕庄地面楼层 q +853 8883 6061

12:30-22:30 A Smart Casual

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Shang Palace 香宫 5

Cantonese Lower Level 1, Kowloon Shangri-La, 64 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong

Ground floor, Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida

TK | roads to siam

Thai Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, Rama 1

香港九龙尖沙咀东么地道64号九龙香格里 拉大酒店地下一层 q +852 2733 8754

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30; Sat & Sun: 10:30-15:00 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual

Dinner: 18:00-00:00 A Elegant

Wet 5

Natural wine Bar 68/9 Soi Lang Suan, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok, Thailand

q +66 2117 2835

Mon-Sat: 16:30-02:00

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

Austrian wines are invitations. Simply

of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

open a cellar door to meet the most ap-

among the world’s greatest wines and

proachable international stars imagina-

are poured at renowned restaurants all

ble: the great wines of Austria. Produ-

over the globe.

ced by true artisans respectful

austrianwine.com

DESSERT

Chef Jayson Tang of Man Ho at JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong creates a sophisticated dessert of crisped rice and rice cream dusted with the delightfully surprising flavor of Sabatino Tartufi Truffle Zest. The chef’s fanciful yin-and-yang presentation signifies the perfect balance of complementary flavors. 香港 JW 万豪酒店中菜厅行政总厨邓家濠巧妙地以萨巴提诺松露粉作为甜点白米奶油伴脆米 的点缀，增加层次感。他更在摆盘上糅合阴阳调和，从视觉上带出口味互补的协调感，与细

DAVID HARTUNG

腻的味道遥相呼应。

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F O O D

I S

F O O D

I S

A R T .

A R T.

E L E V A T E P R E S E R V E

I T .

I T.

In craftsmanship and technology Wolf stands alone.

Its professional performance helps you make the most of every meal.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzerowolf.com.hk