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T A S T I N G 40

K I T C H E N

WINES ACROSS THE CAPE

ELANDSFONTEIN

Flower Powered 细语花草

SOUTH AFRICA

Uncorking the Cape

南非美酒先鋒 FRANSCHHOEK

Taking Flight 逆风高飞


STARTER

Chef Chantel Dartnall of Restaurant Mosaic gives the classic canapé of potato blini and caviar her personal twist in this deconstructed amuse-bouche. It features Aquitaine caviar harvested from sturgeon by cesarean section, leaf-shaped potato, lightly pickled radish, and dried asparagus. With her signature botanical flourish, Dartnall adds sweetly scented white star jasmine and vegetal-flavored yellow cornflowers. Dartnall will showcase her award-winning botanical cuisine as guest chef at the Park Lane Hong Kong from April 11-14. 「Mosaic」餐厅的主厨 Chantel Dartnall 把她的个人风格揉合在这道传统的烤面包中。 她特别选用鲟鱼剖腹生产的阿基坦鱼子酱 , 切成叶片形状的土豆、腌萝卜和干芦笋,

Chantel 将于四月十一日至十四日担任香港栢宁酒店的客席主厨,为宾客带来 一系列精致的草本料理。

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DAVID HARTUNG

再加入她标志性的食用花草-甜美的白花藤以及黄色的矢车菊。


T A S T I N G 40

K I T C H E N

WINES ACROSS THE CAPE

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

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A harvest plate by Chef Eric Bulpitt of Pierneef à La Motte Restaurant tells the story of a South African wine farm. Meatballs called frikadelle, made from minced game bird, are wrapped in grape leaves and served with mashed potatoes and grape gravy. Completing the narrative are mosbolletjies, traditional Cape Dutch sweet buns made with grape must left over from wine production, a glass of grape must (not pictured), and a ripe bunch of shiraz grapes. 「Pierneef à La Motte」餐厅主厨Eric Bulpitt以一道丰盛的佳肴讲述南非葡萄酒园 的故事。Eric用免治野生鸟肉制作被称为frikadelle的肉丸,以葡萄叶包裹,配以土 豆泥和葡萄汁。让故事更完整的是传统开普省荷兰甜面包mosbolletjies,以在生 产葡萄酒过程中留下的剩余物制成,再搭配一杯葡萄汁(不在图中)以及一串成 熟的西拉葡萄。

Photography by David Hartung

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©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2019 All rights reserved


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. This issue celebrates the spectacular wines, gastronomy, and culture of South Africa. We start by visiting a Cape Town potter whose color glazes capture the wild beauty of his environment, from the sapphire skies of the Northern Cape to the varied greens of the khaki bush and camel thorn trees. In Pretoria, we talk with a botanical artist who conveys the organic vitality of South Africa’s abundance of food-providing species. Master of Wine Sarah Heller offers our first perspective on South African wines with her visual tasting note on an elegant chenin blanc. Our first taste of the country’s cuisine comes near the town of Elandsfontein. There, an award-winning chef harvests the magic of her local environment to create dishes inspired by the region’s sights, scents, memories, and traditions, food that sings with flavor. Then it’s time to get serious about wine. First, we learn how one of the country’s most respected chenin blanc producers caught his vision for the grape and its untapped potential. We continue with a grand tour, visiting leading producers of both pinotage and traditional-method sparkling wines before meeting the country’s first black female winemaker. Going on to explore the region of Elgin, we find out what makes its land so fertile and get into some technical nittygritty with winemaker and master of wine Richard Kershaw. Hong Kong wine writer Tersina Shieh offers an insightful recap of CapeWine 2018, reviewing three hundred sixty years of wine in South Africa. Before looking ahead to the future of the industry, she highlights its talented new winemakers, its beguiling sweet wines, and a program to preserve its treasured old vines. Finally, we make a lively detour to Kruger National Park to observe firsthand how the food chain in the wild really works, while trying to keep from becoming a part of it. We hope you enjoy Wines across the Cape.

MARK HAMMONS

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WE DIDN’T INVENT TEQUILA Tequila has been around for centuries, but we took the time to get it right, crafting a small-batch spirit that’s worth sipping slowly. It requires Mexico’s finest 100% Weber Blue Agave, hand-selected and distilled in custom copper stills for a smooth finish every time. We didn’t invent tequila,

WE JUST PERFECTED IT.

The perfect way to enjoy Patrón is responsibly. Handcrafted and imported exclusively from Mexico by The Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV. 40% abv.


CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10  Of Dunes and Sky •  14 The Art of Botany •  16  Lyric Labels •  18  Fruity Finesse •  20  A Sense of Surprise 22  Famously French •  24  Flower Powered •  38  Crossing Boundaries •  42  Taking Flight •  48  Quest to Be Best 50  Vintage 360 •  62  Old Vine Project •  68  Uncorking the Cape •  82  Beyond the Tasting Room

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CONTENTS

98  Presently Thai •  102  A Six-Hands Jam •  116  Chocolate in the Barrel 118  American Adventure •  120  At Its Peak 124  Promising Harvest •  126  African Encounters •  140  Far and Wide 144 L I S T I N G S   •  148 D E S S E R T

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INSPIRED LIVING

故里情怀

of dunes and sky

ANDRE DU PLESSIS / MERVYN GERS CERAMICS, MERVYN GERS CERAMICS

Inspired by his native province, a Cape Town potter is creating custom tableware that is distinctively South African.

I N 1987, Mervyn Gers started taking pottery classes once a week. The youngest child in a family of eight, he lived in a village called Daniëlskuil that borders the Kalahari in the Northern Cape. His early interest soon led to a passionate affair with the malleable medium, both as a collector and as a gifted craftsman. He started in his small home studio by making and selling large vessels with unusual surfaces influenced by Japanese and Korean glazing techniques. Today he operates a large workshop with forty-seven staff members who produce bespoke tableware for some of South Africa’s top chefs. Other clients include luxury guest houses and game lodges, local and international retail outlets, and discerning individuals. His success is the result of immense raw talent combined with a measure of good luck. In 2011, he heard about a studio available in a light-industrial district five kilometers from Cape Town. Since the company that had owned the facility was in the business of importing china from Asia, applying their own transfers, and reselling the products domestically, the space came equipped with kilns, screen-printing machines, and plenty of room for the wheels, molds, mixers, and shelves that a commercial pottery needs. At the time, Cape Town’s booming restaurant scene meant that chefs, bored with the pedestrian, were on the hunt for something distinctive. Excited by the opportunity to expand into more functional items, Gers and five staff moved into the space, where he quickly set about making his mark by developing his own clays, glazes, and a trademark rustic approach.

Ostrich Egg glaze with platinum fill, set to be released in March

1987 年,Mervyn Gers 开 始 每 周 一 次的陶艺课。身为八人家庭中年纪

Mervyn Gers Ceramics的上釉瓷器 Ostrich Egg,特色是填充了真实的 铂金,于三月推出市面发售

最小的他,住在位于北开普省喀拉 哈 里 边 界, 一 个 称 为 Daniëlskuil 的 小村庄。幼年培养的兴趣,很快型 塑出 Mervyn 对陶艺的热情,让他不

仅成为一名收藏家,更是天资聪颖

A sneak peek of new glazes inspired by the South African landscape, set to be released by Mervyn Gers Ceramics in March

的制陶师。家庭工作室草创时期,他 主要制造及销售表面特殊的大型容 器,此种特殊表面融合日式及韩式

以南非景色为灵感创作的一系列 Mervyn Gers Ceramics上釉陶瓷餐 具,于三月推出市面发售

釉彩技术。如今,他已拥有一家大 型工作坊,员工四十七名,专门制 造南非名厨爱用的客制化餐具。除 了厨师,举凡奢华民宿、户外风酒店、

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INSPIRED LIVING

Mervyn Gers, South African master potter and founder of Mervyn Gers Ceramics 南非陶艺大师和Mervyn Gers Ceramics创始人 → A brilliantly hued feature wall of bespoke tiles by Mervyn Gers Ceramics at Johannesburg restaurant Marble 约翰内斯堡的「Marble」餐厅的 一面墙壁由Mervyn Gers Ceramics 的定制瓷砖制成,缤纷夺目

国内外零售商店,以及品味不凡的散 客等,都是他的客户。 他的成功,可归功于无人能及的 天赋加上数次的好运气。2011 年,刚 好有一家位于距离开普敦五公里的轻 工业区的工作室待售。这家工作室的 前老板专营亚洲瓷器进口以及国内运 输 转 卖, 因 此 已 经 有 了 现 成 的 陶 窑、 网版印刷机及足够的空间可供摆放陶 瓷转盘、模具、搅拌机,以及陈列商 品用的货架。那时开普敦正值餐饮业 的风光时期,厨师们已厌倦了一成不 变的事物,都在找寻饶富趣味的厨房 用 品。 于 是 Mervyn 与 五 名 员 工 便 趁 这股转换跑道的气势买下工作室,用 他自创的朴实工法,开始发展自家的 陶坯和釉彩,欲一举打响名号。

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第一个合作对象是位于法国角一 家南非最古老的开普荷兰式农场,名 为 Babylonstoren 的豪华综合酒店。接 着 则 是 Walter Battiss 公 司,Mervyn 为他们设计了结合抽象画家经典作品 的手工容器与盛盘。最近则与 Silvan

Safari 豪华户外风酒店合作,调制符合 室内装潢的全新釉彩。约翰內斯堡的 「Marble」餐厅更为了 Mervyn 打造的 客制餐具,特地另外订制一整面手工 陶瓷墙面与其搭配。 为 维 持 招 牌 风 格,Mervyn Gers 的产品雏型基本上保持不变,不过产 品上的釉彩却年年都会透过严格的试 「通 验,持续研发新配色。Mervyn 说: 常完整开发一种釉彩需要六周,才有 时间进行产品测试。有时工艺比较复 杂,甚至需要更久。 」光是今年,他已 释出十九种独特釉彩,全系列皆取材 自对 Mervyn 影响深远的北开普省家 乡景色。「此精选系列的主轴,来自 沙漠土丘、宝蓝天空、翠绿卡其草丛, 以及刺槐树的自然之美。 」

MERVYN GERS CERAMICS, ELSA YOUNG / MARBLE (2)

The studio’s first collaboration was with Babylonstoren, an opulent hotel complex in Franschhoek on one of the oldest Cape Dutch farms in South Africa. Then came a partnership with The Walter Battiss Company, for whom Gers and his team adapted the abstract painter’s iconic artwork to handcrafted vessels and platters. More recently, Mervyn has worked with luxury lodge Silvan Safari to create new glazes that complement their interiors. And Marble, one of Johannesburg’s most exciting restaurants, commissioned a wall of handmade ceramic tiles to coordinate with the tableware that Gers’s studio had designed for them. The basic shapes of the pieces in the Mervyn Gers product ranges remain largely unaltered, ensuring continuity of his signature style, but new glazes are developed annually through a rigorous process of experimentation. “Generally,” says Gers, “we work on a six-week timeline, which allows us to do some product testing. But if the desired effect is elusive, it can take longer.” Nineteen glazes have been released so far this year, each one sparked by Gers’s greatest influence, the landscape of the Northern Cape where he was born. “My approach to this selection,” he says, “was directed by the beauty of the desert sand dunes, the sapphire blue sky, the greens of the khaki bush and the camel thorn trees.”


FOOD & ART

美植万千

the art of botany In delicate watercolor, Daleen Roodt depicts the boundless diversity of South Africa’s native flora.

“I TRY TO CAPTURE and convey a plant’s organic beauty,” says

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Pretoria-based botanical artist Daleen Roodt, “and also provide the viewer an expression of my unique style.” Roodt has illustrated a wide range of the estimated fourteen hundred food-providing species found throughout the expansive wilds of South Africa. These include the famed baobab, a bulbous tree used for everything from fruit powder to storage barns, and the mopane tree, habitat to protein-rich grubs commonly eaten dried or roasted. In addition to its fruit, the sycamore fig tree yields leaves that are prepared as a relish, and the marula tree’s plumlike fruits are used to make the South African liqueur Amarula. Predominantly self-trained, Roodt got involved in botanical illustration after taking a module in plant morphology while studying languages at the University of Pretoria. This led to her first commission, a set of scientific illustrations for South African National Biodiversity Institute ( SANBI). Work for books, magazines, hotels, and restaurants followed, accompanied by numerous awards. “Adopting a more scientific approach has taught me not only to see and understand my subject matter but to consider the purpose of every brush stroke.” Regular and often days-long treks to the varied landscapes of her home country are a necessity for any commission she undertakes. “I will very roughly sketch a wild presentation of the subject,” she explains, “to capture that first impression, its essence, its soul, so to speak. This process also involves a sensory acquaintance of feeling, smelling, touching, and sometimes even tasting the subject in order to register its textures in my mind.” Watercolor is Roodt’s preferred medium, although she has also worked in oils, copper inscription, and techniques for more precise scientific or microscopic illustration. Known best for her depictions of the continent’s rarest flora, she has an unbounded enthusiasm for South Africa’s orchids: “The first time I discovered an indigenous orchid was roughly a decade ago when I came upon a glorious display of a large Bonatea speciosa showing off its

「我试着捕捉并传达植物的生机之美,也让

dew-glistened, swirly tentacles. I was in complete awe of its intricate beauty.”

一见钟情。它那难以捉摸的美,让我不禁

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赏画者感受我的独特画风。 」

Daleen 目前已画过一千四百种南非野 外形形色色的可食用植物,包括著名的猴 面包树,这种带球根的树用途广泛,可做 成水果粉,也可拿来盖储藏室 ;可乐豆木 则是高蛋白质蛴螬的栖息地,此虫可风干 食用,也可以烤着吃 ;而西克莫无花果除 了果实能吃,其叶片也是一道可口美食 ; 马鲁拉树如梅子般的果实,则常用来酿造 南非爱玛乐利口酒。

Daleen 的画技几乎全靠自学。她在比 勒陀利亚大学学习语言时,接触到植物形 态学,是她走入画界的开端。后来她接到 第一份工作,为南非国家生物多样性研究 中心 (SANBI) 描绘一系列学术插图。之后 一路在书籍、杂志、旅馆及餐厅中一展所学, 获奖无数。她认为 : 「将科学运用到画画中, 让我不仅懂得观察、理解画中主题,更能 仔细审视每一笔划的目的。 」 接下工作后,她总会花好几天跑到主 题所在的户外环境,体会家乡南非的多样 地貌。她说 : 「我会先概略地画出主题,以 捕捉对它的第一印象、基本元素,以及它 的灵魂。我也会利用各种感官知觉以更加 熟悉主题,感觉、嗅觉、触觉,甚至会用 到味觉,将主题的质感深深地刻在脑海里。 」

Daleen 偏 好 使 用 水 彩, 也 会 运 用 油 铜刻印及精准的精密科学绘图技术。她以 南非珍稀植物绘画见长,对兰花尤其热爱。 她称 : 「大约十年前,我画下一幅规模壮观 的波纳兰 (Bonatea speciosa),花上晶莹的 露珠、招展的枝丫,让我对这种原生兰花 肃然起敬。 」


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SPIRIT ART

如诗装扮

lyric labels Three new French liqueurs express their essence in visual poetry.

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巴 黎 的 烈 酒 品 牌 H.Theoria 的 美 食 经 理 Camille

to make a difference,” says Camille Hedin, gourmet cuisine manager of Paris-based H.Theoria. “You need to be disruptive, visionary, and agile.” The company’s olfaction and formulation expert, Marlène Staiger, agrees: “H.Theoria is open to creativity, to rethinking the spirit experience. We’re taking hold of the world of aromas, where fantasy journeys begin.” The proof that innovation is the driver behind the brand’s two founding visionaries is apparent in the scandalous names they’ve chosen for its three distinct flavor offerings: Procrastination, Hystérie, and Perfidie. “We’re trying,” says Staiger, “to revisit, compose, and convey the most shameful of our emotions through taste.” Their nonconformist streak also shows up in the artwork custom-created for the liqueurs by Samy Halim, art director of Waaw Studio in Bordeaux, and Joel Caussimon, art director at French brand consultancy Pixelis. “We chose to work with these artists,” says Hedin, “because of their proven talent in conveying a sense of luxury and their passion for crafting packaging with a strong identity.” The three labels, featuring hand-drawn illustrations reminiscent of copperplate engravings, were suggested by themes of tradition, romance, and mystery from a bygone era – specimens of flora and fauna locked away in an old curiosity cabinet, the scent of a deep

「创立新烈酒品牌的最大挑战是如何独 Hedin 说 :

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树一格,这需要抛下成见、眼光放远,还要临机 应变。 」香气及配方专家 Marlène Staiger 也附和 : 「H.Theoria 广纳各种创新思维,反思现有的品酒体 验,现在已逐渐掌握香气的奥妙,抓住展开奇幻 旅程的门票。 」 要证明两位梦想家着实以创新为品牌核心, 只需看两人如何用略为嘲讽的字眼来命名产品便 能知晓。这三款风味迥异的产品,分别是 :爆裂 、 「我们试着重温、组合 空想及奸狡。Marlène 说 : 各种气味,利用味觉传达最难以启齿的几种情绪。 」 这种不落俗套的特质,尽情展示在由波尔多

Waaw Studio 及法国顾问公司 Pixelis 两家的艺术 总监 Samy Halim 和 Joel Caussimon 共同设计的三 「我们选择与艺术 种客制艺术包装上。Camille 说 : 家合作,是因为他们的设计成功带出奢华感,对 于打造个性化的包装剪裁,更是充满热情。 」 三款包装以纯手工绘制,带有铜板雕刻的质 感,画中主题为逝去年代的老传统、罗曼史及未 解之谜。一眼看去,仿佛能感受到身旁摆着装有 动植物标本的珍奇橱柜,皮椅、热红茶及旧书的


leather armchair, hot black tea, old books. Printed on creamy paper, the artwork adorns handcrafted Italian flacons, complete with glass stoppers, that were inspired by nineteenth-century perfume bottle designs. The unorthodox style choices were meant to ensure that the products stand out on the shelf, looking more like the irresistible “Drink Me” potion in Alice in Wonderland than conventional liqueur bottles. H.Theoria’s ethos of rarefied fantasy has pushed the brand into the spotlight. Its offerings, now available across Italy, Norway, Switzerland, the United Kingdom, Hong Kong, and South Korea, are inspiring chefs, sommeliers, and bartenders. “Our customers,” says Hedin, “are hedonists, curious people who love to discover new sensations.”

气味扑鼻而来。奶油色的包装纸,包覆着手工制 意大利小玻璃瓶,瓶口以玻璃塞密封,此设计源 自十九世纪的香水瓶。这种特立独行的酒瓶外观, 为的就是让人在货架上能一眼认出,看起来更像 爱丽丝梦游仙境那般令人无法抵抗的「喝我吧」 魔力药水,而不是习以为常的烈酒瓶。

H.Theoria 秉持想像无限的独特理念,将品牌 推向世界焦点。如今在意大利、挪威、瑞士、英国、 香港、南韩都能买到他们的产品,更让厨师、侍酒 「我们 师及调酒师一看到就灵感泉涌。Camille 说 : 的顾客都是喜欢尝鲜、追求享乐生活的爱好者。 」

H.Theoria products are distributed in Hong Kong by French Concept, 12/F Room 5, Remex Building, 42 Wong Chuk Hang. sales@laparisienne.com.hk +852 9014 8305 wines across the cape

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WINE ART

「果」然精巧

fruity finesse

源自法国卢瓦尔河谷的白诗南葡萄 (chenin

blanc) 在南非的产量已大比例超越世界各地 的总和,这品种仿似在这里找到了其第二个 天然栖地。

Wines made from South Africa’s most widely planted grape take on new sophistication.

COLUMN AND ART BY SARAH HELLER

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O R I G I N AT I N G I N the Loire Valley of

白诗南又称「Steen」 ,据传是 1655 年首

France, chenin blanc seems to have found its natural second home in South Africa, a country where chenin plantings are greater than the rest of the world’s combined. Possibly among the vines first brought to the Cape in 1655, this vine, which came to be known as Steen, enjoyed a somewhat inauspicious start as the basis for brandy and later for an inexpensive semisweet blended white. Although simple, gluggable versions still exist and are widely enjoyed domestically, truly fine chenin is something eminently achievable across a whole range of climates within the Cape winelands. Kloof Street Chenin Blanc from Mullineux brings together many of the trends in South African wines from this grape. Based in the Swartland, a region known for its ancient chenin bush vines grown on granite and shale, Mullineux has prioritized fresh, frank expression over ambition in their Kloof Street range. Both tank-aged for fruit freshness and oak-aged for complexity, these wines sit cheerfully between the drinkability of earlier times and the evolved finesse of today. Its fruit is tropical, rounded out by apricot and quince, its body waxy, rounded, and solid but with brightening freshness at either end.

批葡萄引进开普敦时一同带入种植,起初并 未受到极大赏识,只用作白兰地基底或廉价 白酒的混合材料。尽管朴实顺口的酒款依然 受到当地人喜爱,但开普敦酒乡得天独厚的 宜人气候,使产出品质上佳的白诗南葡萄变 成了可能。 马利诺酒庄 (Mullineux) 的 Kloof Street Chenin Blanc 将南非白诗南葡萄酒的各个特 质融为一体。酒庄发源于斯瓦特兰,因在花 岗岩与页岩上种植的古老白诗南而闻名。新 鲜、直率、雄心壮志则是 Kloof Street 系列葡 萄酒的特色。不论是采用酒槽熟成的新鲜果 香,或是木桶熟成的多层次风味,这款系列 在出产初期便呈现不俗的顺口度,如今口感 更显精纯细致。果香表现突出,散发浓烈杏 果和木梨香 ;酒体质地如蜜蜡,圆润且扎实, 两种特质都带有清新明亮的尾韵。


Sarah Heller is a content creator, visual artist and wine expert and Asia’s youngest Master of Wine. Her digitally executed image expresses the complexity and tropical-fruit freshness of Kloof Street Chenin Blanc. Sarah Heller是一位媒体创作人、视觉艺术家及葡萄酒专家,是亚洲最年轻的葡萄酒大师。 从她的插画可一窥Kloof Street Chenin Blanc美酒的多层次风味和热带果香。

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DESIGN

老房焕新

a sense of surprise The interior of one of Cape Town’s most notable heritage sites is transformed into a modern visual and culinary experience.

TO STEP INSIDE Salsify is to enter a space where the legacy of Cape Town converges with its contemporary identity. The restaurant nestles in the undulating interiors of The Roundhouse, one of the landmark buildings of South Africa’s mother city. This undeniably beautiful, if somewhat stuffy, lateeighteenth-century structure has been given a vibrant internal remodel by South African designer Sandalene Dale-Roberts. Located in the scenic suburb of Camps Bay, Salsify opened last October on The Roundhouse’s upper level. Leading South African chef and restaurateur Luke DaleRoberts, Sandalene’s husband and business partner, is in charge, along with Head Chef Ryan Cole and General Manager Markus Fiedler. The venue is the latest addition to a stable of restaurants founded by the DaleRoberts duo, well-known throughout and beyond South Africa for their spirit of adventure and ardor for culinary excellence. Built as a guardhouse, The Roundhouse d a t e s t o 1 7 8 6. G e n e r a l L o rd C h a r l e s Somerset, governor of the Cape Colony from 1814 to 1826, used it as a hunting lodge. Considering its history, Sandalene, who was interested in creating a space that would be less an “escape for the well-to-do” than a welcoming spot for people of all walks of life, approached the project with care. “We had to be very respectful of the heritage of the building,” she says, “while also trying to push the envelope in terms of design.” The exterior appears much as it always has, but arriving guests immediately recognize that they’ve entered the city’s most strikingly contemporary restaurant environment. Focal point of the central dining area is a bronze sculpture of a nude female figure by noted local artist Otto du Plessis. Half game bird, half woman, the piece, entitled Salsify , serves as the restaurant’s guardian and muse. Throughout the five unique spaces filling the inner and outer rings of the restaurant are murals designed to delight guests at every turn. They are the work of street artist Louis de Villiers, born in South Africa and now

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← The Sea Room integrates Naturalis custommade furnishings with vintage accessories. Sea Room 装饰有 Naturalis 定制家具和复古配饰 ↙ A mural by internationally recognized street artist Louis de Villiers greets Salsify’s guests. 挂在餐厅大门迎接宾客的是 由国际知名街头艺术家Louis de Villiers亲手绘制的壁画

走进「Salsify」餐厅,犹如走入开普敦横贯古 今的历史文化。在这个南非最早发展的城市, 有一座地标性建筑称作 The Roundhouse,餐 厅就隐藏在其波浪般的装潢中。由 Sandalene

Dale-Roberts 设计的崭新餐厅内装,让十八 世纪末保守却无可比拟的古典结构之美,更 添鲜活色彩。 「Salsify」位于坎普斯湾景色优美的郊区, 去年十月在 The Roundhouse 二楼隆重开幕。 经 营 者 是 南 非 引 领 潮 流 的 主 厨 兼 老 板 Luke

Dale-Roberts,同时也是 Sandalene 的丈夫兼 合作伙伴,总厨 Ryan Cole 及总经理 Markus

Fiedler 则是得力拍档。这里是夫妇二人最新 开设的餐厅,两人对卓越餐饮不畏冒险的精 神以及洋溢的热情,早已让「Salsify」在南非 声名远播。

The Roundhouse 于 1786 年建造,原为 警 卫 室,1814 到 1826 年 间 被 开 普 殖 民 地 统 治者 Charles Somerset 勋爵改建为猎人小屋。 回顾其历史,Sandalene 决定将其精心打造成 适合所有人来访之处,而非「有钱人的专用 别墅」 。她说 : 「希望在尊重建筑背后的历史 同时,能将设计潜力推向颠峰。 」 虽然外部设计与以往别无二致,一旦走 进室内,转瞬间便能到达现代装潢风格的用 餐环境。餐厅的中心矗立一座迷人的裸女铜 像。这座半禽半人的雕像,是当地著名艺术 家 Otto du Plessis 的杰作。雕像取名 Salsify, 负责守护餐厅并启发人们源源不绝的灵感。 餐厅内外间隔出五个独特空间,各个转 角均放置了现在纽约发展、南非本地街头艺 术家 Louis de Villiers 的心血作品。除了壁画 之外,骨董波斯地毯、木板镶嵌墙面、古典 丝绒及皮革元素亦点缀其中。

JASON PATRICK (2)

Sandalene 的设计公司 Naturalis 更手工 based in New York. Vintage Persian rugs, wood paneling, and velvet and leather upholstery hint at an earlier era. Bespoke furniture handcrafted by Sandalene’s design company, Naturalis, is juxtaposed with antique pieces, including the repurposed marble-topped bedside tables used by Sommelier Nash Kanyangarara to present the wine selection to guests. Chef Cole sees a parallel between the redesigned restaurant and its rather obscure namesake root vegetable, a relative of the parsnip with a taste that many find reminiscent of oysters. “It’s hard to imagine,” says Cole, “how salsify, when properly prepared, evolves and reveals its flavor from its original unassuming state. This sense of surprise and metamorphosis is what I feel about Salsify the restaurant – the space has been beautifully reborn to reveal the treasures of a once-rundown building by transforming it into a cool and edgy setting.”

打造客制化家具,用以搭配各式古董器具, 包括侍酒师 Nash Kanyangarara 向客人展示 藏酒的大理石床头桌。 总厨 Ryan 将餐厅重新打造的过程,比 喻 成 一 种 默 默 无 闻 的 同 名 植 物。 这 种 根 茎 类蔬菜是欧洲萝卜的近亲,味道近似生蚝。 「谁都想不到毫不起眼的婆罗门蔘 Ryan 说 : 只要料理得当,就能释放出惊为天人的滋味。 这过程如同餐厅的蜕变,从原本残破不堪的 建筑羽化成蝶,利用新潮的前卫设计重现荣 光。 」 wines across the cape

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再现法国传奇

famously french Renowned Chef Michel Troisgros and his son Léo make their Hong Kong debut at Épure.

T WO MEMBERS of one of France’s fabled culinary dynasties, the Troisgros family, recently traveled to Hong Kong to star as guest chefs at Épure, widely acclaimed for its imaginative contemporary French cuisine. Nicolas Boutin, executive chef of Épure, had invited the father-son duo to his Michelin-starred restaurant to collaborate on a sumptuous dinner tasting menu that was presented over three nights, February 21 to 23. The occasion also served as a reunion of former culinary colleagues. In the 1990s, Boutin had apprenticed with Michel at the family’s famous La Maison Troisgros restaurant in Roanne, France. There Boutin, who was in his early twenties, had scaled the ranks from commis chef to sous chef. “Having worked with Nicolas back then,” said Michel, “and given the trust I have in him, I’m confident in bringing my team to Épure.” The Troisgros culinary heritage is long and illustrious. Michel’s grandfather, Jean-Baptiste, opened La Maison Troisgros in 1930, and in the ’50s, the torch was

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「Troisgros 家族」是法国的传奇美食世家之一。最近,两位

Troisgros 家族成员来到香港,在创意无限的著名现代法式料 理餐厅「Épure」担任客座主厨。 行政总厨 Nicolas Boutin 邀请这对父子档莅临「Épure」 米其林星级餐厅,于 2 月 21 至 23 日通力合作为顾客设计顶 级奢华的晚宴菜单。此次场合亦是两位前同事的久别重逢。 在 1990 年代,Nicolas 曾与 Michel 一同于法国罗阿讷享负盛 名的家族企业「La Maison Troisgros」餐厅担任学徒。Nicolas 当时约二十岁出头, 有幸受提拔从三厨升到副主厨。Michel 说: 「与 Nicolas 共事的过往经验,加上对他信任有加,因此我有 」 十足的信心带领团队至『Épure』一展身手。

Troisgros 家族在烹饪界历史显赫悠久。Michel 的祖父 Jean-Baptiste 在 1930 年 创 立「La Maison Troisgros」 餐 厅, 到 50 年 代 才 由 Michel 的 父 亲 Pierre 和 叔 叔 Jean 接 下 指 挥


TASTING NEWS

←← Milk & Truffle 牛奶黑松露 ← Charcoal with black truffle, chestnut crème and deep fried squid bread crumbs 木炭配黑松露、栗子奶 油和炸鱿鱼面包

← Tartelette made with corn, pumpkins marinated with fresh and preserved lemon, pumpkin seeds 由玉米、以新鲜和醃柠檬醃制的 南瓜以及南瓜籽制成的Tartelette

→ Léo and Michel Troisgros

passed to Michel’s father, Pierre, and his uncle, Jean. Then, in 1983, Michel, along with his wife, Marie-Pierre, took the helm as third-generation chef and owner. The family’s three-Michelin-star flagship operation was relocated to rural Ouches in 2017 and given the name Le Bois Sans Feuilles. It occupies a seventeen-hectare site with a remodeled stone farmhouse and barn. Like its predecessor, the restaurant seats sixty and features an open, amphitheaterstyle kitchen with a team of accomplished chefs that includes Michel’s sons César and Léo. Joining Michel and Léo at the Épure event in February was Michele Abbatemarco, pastry chef at Troisgros in Tokyo. Together they created a spectacular array of dishes from luxury ingredients like Petrossian beluga caviar, French winter black truffles, and premium crayfish and scallops. “On our first visit to Épure,” remarked Léo before the occasion, “I was very impressed with how welcoming the team was. I’m genuinely anticipating our collaboration.”

棒。1983 年,家族企业重任移交予第三代经营者兼主厨,亦 即 Michel 与妻子 Marie-Pierre 身上。

2017 年,米芝莲三星级的旗舰家族企业迁移到乌什,更 。新餐厅占地十七公顷,包括 名为「Le Bois Sans Feuilles」 改装后的石砌农舍及谷仓。座位规划参考以往特色,可容纳 六十人,厨房为开放式、圆形剧场风格设计,烹饪团队均经 验老到,其中亦包括 Michel 之子 César 和 Léo。 「Troisgros」东京分部的糕点厨师 除了 Michel 和 Léo, Michele Abbatemarco 亦 受 邀 前来 参 与「Épure」 二 月 活 动。 三人协力创作一系列令人食指大动的料理,所选一流食材包 括 Petrossian 鲟鱼鱼子酱、法国冬季黑松露、顶级小龙虾及 「这次首度至『Épure』拜访, 扇贝等等。Léo 于活动前表示 : 当地团队的亲切礼待令我印象深刻,因此非常享受此次的美 食交流合作。 」 wines across the cape

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TASTING DESTINATION

细语花草

FLOWER POWERED In advance of Chantel Dartnall’s guest chef visit to the Park Lane Hong Kong in April, senior writer MAMIE CHEN and photographer DAVID HARTUNG explore the idyllic natural setting that inspires her award-winning cuisine.

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TASTING DESTINATION

“ T H E G E N E R A L R U L E for harvesting

flowers is to not pick everything from one bunch,” says Chantel Dartnall, chef-patron of Restaurant Mosaic, a fine-dining destination in Elandsfontein, not far from the South African capital of Pretoria. “You should leave about 90 percent on the plant. That gives it some stimulation, and the next morning you’ll have a burst of new flowers.” The well-tended gardens from which she sources many of the flowers, herbs, and vegetables that make her dishes so enchanting are distributed across Francolin Conservancy, a protected environment her family created to preserve habitat for countless species of indigenous and endemic flora and fauna. In a never-ending attempt to outwit the opportunistic wildlife, many valued plantings are tucked away in hidden corners of the two hundred eighty hectares. “I’ve all but given up,” says Dartnall with a good-natured shrug, “but we still plant and harvest what we can.” This morning, she focuses her attention on the area just outside the gates of The Orient hotel and its abundance of local wildflowers. In a picturesque spot between two rare Aloe marlothii plants that Dartnall estimates to be at least fifty years old, she kneels among the blossoms, sharing thoughts and insights while her hands flit effortlessly from bunch to bunch. The miniature verbena, often mistaken, she says, for lemon verbena, is actually a native South African plant that leaves a sweet nectar flavor in the mouth, perfect for use in desserts. Wild garlic flowers, too pungent in their natural form for most of her recipes, become milder after marinating in a light vinaigrette of lime sugar syrup and white balsamic vinegar. Aloe blossoms cooked down into a preserve make an excellent condiment for pairing with cheese, although she prescribes removing the pollenbearing stamens to prevent allergic reactions. Dartnall traces her interest in edible flowers and herbs back to her adolescence,

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ON THE VINE

V I N E TO M ATO E S , A G E D B A L S A M I C , S W E E T B A S I L

与藤共舞 :带茎番茄、陈年香醋、鲜甜罗勒

We were slowly drifting down the Canal du Midi in the lazy heat of summer, coming to rest and anchoring our barge, like Hippocrates of old, under the spreading branches of a monumental old plantain tree near the small village of Les Moulins du Pont. That evening we strolled into the village square and bought some sugar-sweet Apero cherry tomatoes, prettily arranged along their central stem, to enjoy with our jambon de Lacaune and a bottle of Lanquedoc wine. A moment of sheer bliss, etched into our memories forever, to be returned to and savored, as if tasting the juicy sweetness on our tongues again, and again, and again. 伴着慵懒的炎夏热浪,我们顺着米迪运河的河水缓缓而下,如旧时 的希波克拉底一般,将驳船停靠在蓬莱穆兰小村庄旁一株硕大的老 芭蕉树荫下。那个晚上,我们信步迈入村庄广场,买了些香甜的开 胃樱桃番茄。只见番茄一颗颗漂亮整齐地排列在番茄茎上,于是我 们便用来搭配吕克赛火腿和朗格多克葡萄酒。如此纯粹的幸福,将 永远烙印在脑海里,如今尝一口这道料理,仿佛当初口中那香甜多 汁的滋味,又不断地在舌尖翻动、再翻动,令人回味不已。

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TASTING DESTINATION

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UNDER THE VEIL

LANGOUSTINE, WHITE PEACH, HIBISCUS

帐 下 天 地 :海 鳌 虾 、 水 蜜 桃 、 木 槿 花

One of my earliest memories as a young toddler was my grandmother, my ouma Nanna, hanging out her washing, with me sitting in the linen basket amongst her fragrant bedsheets smelling faintly of lavender and her 4711 Eau de Cologne. Thinking back, it seems as if my whole adolescent life was spent in her room dressing up in her evening gowns, trying on her high-heeled shoes and putting on lipstick in front of the mirror with her favorite string of pearls adorning my small frame and hanging down to my knees. What a thrill it was during my first school holidays to pitch a make-believe tent, made from her umbrella and one of her bedsheets, on the carpet in front of her bed. We spent many an evening together in our tent, with me curled up on her lap listening to the adventures of Mowgli read by torchlight. Recalling her soothing voice and warm embrace that soon put me to sleep will forever be one of my sweetest memories. This dish is an ode to all the oumas out there, who can create magic from a humble item to transport young minds to a world of enchantment.

「Mosaic」餐厅主厨 Chantel Dartnall 称: 「采花的基本原则就是,

小时候的回忆总有我奶奶的身影。记得我总坐在亚麻篮子

下甜甜的花蜜香,十分适合用于制作甜点。 」对于她大部分的

中,被芬芳的床单包围,看着她将洗好的衣物挂到架上,

料理而言,野生的大蒜花味道都太过强烈,但若以含有莱姆糖

身边不时传来薰衣草清香和她惯用的香水味。回想起来,

浆、白酒醋的清爽油醋酱腌渍后,气味就变得温和许多。芦荟

我的少年时光似乎都在她的房间度过,我总是拿她的晚礼

花做成的蜜饯可说是奶酪的最佳搭档,她会事先摘除带有花粉

服、高跟鞋来穿,把玩梳妆镜前的口红,小小的身躯挂着

的雄蕊,避免客人食用后引起过敏。

她最爱的珍珠项链,长度及膝。第一次学校放假,我还兴 奋地在她床前地毯上造了一座假帐篷,用的是她的雨伞和 床单。好几个午后,我们都是在那座帐篷中度过,我蜷曲 在奶奶的腿上,就着烛光,听她读毛克利的大冒险。听着 她温柔的声音,在她温暖的怀抱中渐渐睡去,是我永生难 忘的美好回忆。这道料理献给全天下的奶奶,颂扬她们在 平淡生活中施展的魔法,让年幼的我们能在梦幻世界遨游。

别一次过把同一丛花摘完。 」 「Mosaic」是位于埃兰兹才丹的精 致餐厅, 就在南非首都比勒陀利亚的不远处。她继续解释称: 「每 次采摘应该留下九成的花草,刺激植株促进生长,这样隔天一 早又是花开满丛。 」

Chantel 悉心照料花园中的一草一木,并运用这里的花草、 香料、蔬菜创造美味迷人的料理。她的花园广布于法兰克林保 护区内,该保护区是由 Chantel 的家族所创立,旨在为无数原 生种与特有种的动植物提供栖息地。在盗采者伺机而动的野生 自然环境中,许多珍贵的植物被隐密藏匿于占地 280 公顷的保 「我只好放弃了, 护区中。谈及此,Chantel 耸耸肩温和地说 : 不过我们仍然尽最大努力种植与采收各种花草植物。 」 那天早上,Chantel 来到离南非东方酒店大门外不远的花 园,此处有丰富的本地野花品种。她蹲在两株稀有的鬼切芦荟 之间,推论这两株至少已生长达五十年。这里风景如画,她蹲 在蔚然花海中,畅谈自己的看法与观点,同时一双巧手穿梭悠 游于缤纷花丛间。 「这是常被误认是柠檬马鞭草的 Chantel 指着一株植物说 : 小型马鞭草,其实它是一种南非原生植物,咀嚼时会在口中留

Chantel 从青少年时期起便对可食用花草充满兴趣,当时 她决定吃素,但是因为母亲不愿意为她另外准备素食餐点,她 只好自行摸索让素食料理更有变化的方式。她曾经做过许多试 验,比如压碎凤梨鼠尾草的叶子,赋予餐点浓烈香气,或是将 凤梨鼠尾草的鲜艳红花加在料理中,增添一股柑橘薄荷的风味。 她也开始研究许多植物的药性,比如使用琉璃苣花治疗青春期 的红肿青春痘。 多年以后, 她去到英国, 在名厨 Michael Caines 的「Gidleigh Park」餐厅工作,学习更多运用花草的摆盘方式,后来她将此 。 处所学融会贯通,形成自己独树一帜的风格,并带回「Mosaic」 她说 : 「当时有人形容我的摆盘方式是一种革命,那时候很少 有人用花摆盘,而我就是个做任何菜都要加入花花草草的女 孩。 」

2009 年,Chantel 终于有机会到法国朝圣,拜访草本美食 。她说 : 「简直 之父、传奇名厨 Michel Bras 及其餐厅「Bras」 是惊为天人。我那时才知道,原来只把取自于大自然的元素摆 wines across the cape

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TASTING DESTINATION

FROM THE FROZEN OCEAN

放在盘中是不够的,我必须改变自己的心态,让餐点更契

极 冻 深 海 美 味 :北 冰 洋 鲑 鱼 、 海 草 、 海 鲜 汤

能说清楚每道菜料理方式的原因,并能解释每道料理背后

A R C T I C S A L M O N , S E AW E E D , O C E A N B R OT H

I have never been an early riser, but if you want to witness one of the wonders of the modern world, you’ll need to set your alarm for two o’clock in the morning. That’s when the Rungis International Market kicks into second gear to start trading, sending fresh produce daily around the globe long before a new dawn breaks over the majestic monuments of Paris. With a dazzling array of fresh fish landed in the harbors of Europe barely a few hours before, they promise to have your choice in your restaurant’s kitchen anywhere in France before the noonday sounds. Standing transfixed amongst a sea of containers, staring unashamedly at the sheer exuberance of choices on hand, I knew I had to mimic the process with salmon, as if freshly plucked from the frozen Arctic Ocean but a few hours before, presented au naturel and in its juiciest state at your table. 我从来就不是一只早起的鸟儿,但若想一睹现代世界奇景,闹钟可得调至 凌晨两点。这时候,郎吉斯国际市场已经忙碌起来,车水马龙,好不热闹。 早在曙光映照巴黎雄伟的纪念碑之前,商家已将新鲜产品运送到全球各 地。数小时前才抵达欧洲港口的各式鲜鱼,琳琅满目的陈列眼前。鱼贩自

合于自然。我仍然能保有对于花草的热爱,但是必须学习 的故事与灵感。 」 因此,她开始重新规划,学习运用这套哲学,其后 更打造出专属于她个人的料理哲学。Chantel 将第一道突 ,这道料理诉说她终 破性料理命名为「赞颂 Michel Bras」 于找到美妙灵感并带回南非的故事,并以 Michel Bras 的 风格摆盘,总计采用三十七种呈现南非自然之美的花草食 材。 「从那次开始,我的料理运动正式展开。 Chantel 说 : 我所做的每道料理都有一个故事,每道料理都能诉说为何 采用这些食材。 」一开始,她着重于探究个别食材的特色, 比如采用七种不同的胡萝卜或是十二种不同品种的番茄等 等,等她累积更多信心后,便能运用美食讲述独特的经验。 目前的菜单中,有一道料理呈现她孩提时期穿梭在奶奶刚 洗好的床单间玩耍的经验,另一道料理则充满来自法兰克 林保护区的风景与香气,还有一道菜讲述一种古老而具有 永续性的非洲传统捕鱼方式,那是一个用竹制陷阱捕鱼的 故事。

信地保证,不论餐厅位在法国何处,都能将所选的鱼获于正午十二声钟响

她提到 : 「厨师的工作非常忙碌,几乎没有机会能向

前送到你的厨房。站在以容器承装的一大片海鲜中,我愣住了,并自顾自

客人解说菜单与每道餐点背后的故事,但对我而言,厨师

地望着目不暇给的鱼货,同时脑海想像到这样的画面 :几小时前才刚从极

与食客之间的连结非常重要。我希望每位客人都能明白,

冻的北冰洋捞起鲑鱼,下一刻就能为顾客呈上鲜嫩多汁的清蒸鲑鱼。

我们用这种方式烹调以及选在这里开设餐厅的原因。 」 wines across the cape

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TASTING DESTINATION

“Back then,” she says, “my way of plating was viewed as almost revolutionary. Most people weren’t really garnishing with flowers, and there I was, this girl putting flowers everywhere. 当时有人形容我的摆盘方式是一种革命, 那时候很少有人用花摆盘,而我就是个 做任何菜都要加入花花草草的女孩。”

when she declared herself a vegetarian. Because her mother refused to cater to her new diet, she had to find her own ways to make vegetarian food more interesting, such expedients as crushing a pineapple sage leaf to release its tangy fragrance into a dish or adding the plant’s bright red flowers for their citrus-mint flavor. She also began learning about the medicinal uses of many plants, including borage flowers for self-treatment of teenage acne flare-ups. Years later, while working for Michael Caines at the Michelin-starred Gidleigh Park in the UK, Dartnall learned more about using herbs and flowers in a gourmet setting, an approach she would eventually incorporate into her unique style at Restaurant Mosaic. “Back then,” she says, “my way of plating was viewed as almost revolutionary. Most people weren’t really garnishing with flowers, and there I was, this girl putting flowers everywhere.” In 2009, Dartnall finally made a pilgrimage to France to visit the father of botanical cuisine, Michel Bras, at his restaurant, Bras. “It was mind-blowing,” she says. “I realized that it wasn’t enough just to have elements from nature on the plate. I had to change my

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mind-set and be more in tune with nature. I could still have a love for herbs and flowers, but I had to justify it and be able to explain the story and inspiration behind the dish.” She was compelled to regroup and find a way to adopt this philosophy while making it her own. Her first breakthrough dish, My

Ode to Michel Bras, presented the story of finding her great inspiration and bringing it back to South Africa. The dish, plated in Michel’s style, showcased thirty-seven elements and components that reflected her local South African surroundings. “From there, the movement truly


FISHKRAAL

M A U R I T I A N S E A B A SS , C I T R U S V E LO U T É , C A P E R S

盘 中 鱼 笼 :模 里 西 斯 海 鲈 鱼 、 柑 橘 酱 、 酸 豆

T he first time I met Nhelo, he was standing thigh-deep in the lukewarm waters of the estuary of Kosi Bay repairing his fish traps, originally constructed by his grandfather. Each circular basket has a cunning gate made of crisscrossed sticks – easy to enter, but hard to exit. Once inside, large fish cannot escape, but small ones can squeeze between the stakes of the basket, which are tied with thick fiber stripped from the leaves of wild banana palms. Nhelo called the ones that get caught “stupid fish,” but he said it gently, as if to ask who among us has not made a stupid choice. “They could swim up the channel, but instead they come into my trap,” he said with mild amazement. My inspiration for this dish was found in the centuries-old tradition of the ancient Vatsonga people, who built traps to catch fish moving in and out of the estuary with the tide, a daily practice still continuing today.

第 一 次 遇 到 Nhelo 时, 他站在戈西湾河口处、水高 及腰的温热潮水中,修补着他爷 爷制造的捕鱼笼。这种圆形笼子有一个 诡诈的开口,以纵横交错的竹棍做成,鱼群一 旦进入,便很难原路折返。换句话说,大型鱼 类一进不出,但毕竟这只是使用野生香蕉棕榈 树叶的厚纤维来捆绑这些竹条,小型鱼倒是可 从笼子的编织隙缝钻出去。Nhelo 把这些被抓 的大鱼称做「笨鱼」 ,但语气却很温柔,仿佛懂 得世间万物总是偶尔会犯傻。 他略带诧异地: 「他 们本可以顺着渠道往上,却反而往我的陷阱里 游。 」这道料理便是受到以竹制陷阱捕鱼的古老 利用河口处的潮汐现象, 民族 Vatsonga 所启发, 让鱼顺流游入陷阱里。这种捕鱼方式已持续数 个世纪,至今仍颇为常见。


TASTING DESTINATION

PAVLOVA

PA SS I O N F R U I T, V I O L E T, L E M O N M E R I N G U E

帕 芙 洛 娃 蛋 糕 :百 香 果 、 紫 罗 兰 、 柠 檬 蛋 白 糖 霜

When we leave adolescence behind, size becomes less of an issue, and, being confronted by the subject, we will most likely put a smile on our face in place of the expected frown on our brow. It may be her petite size – and the magic surrounding her persona – that earned my mother Mari the nickname The Faerie among family members and close friends. It is with bated breath and a private chuckle that we see, time and time again and to the delight of all around the table, how, at the end of a meal at one of our favorite classic bistros in France, the largest portion of profiteroles or pavlova is placed before her, putting to shame any of the other portions served. It has become part of her enchantment and charm how she, looking no more than adolescent, can attract these monstrous portions of desserts, as if the garçon wants to favor her above all the other diners. This, then, is my ode to my Mom – our own member of the faerie folk – who makes magic wherever she goes, and whose size is not indicative of the vast power she wields. 当我们长大成人,不再那么看重体型差异时,谈到 这类话题便不会眉头不展,而能莞尔一笑,侃侃而 谈。也许是因为我的母亲 Mari 身形娇小,加诸她 身上散发如魔法般的气质,在亲友间她有着「小仙 子」的称号。在我们最爱的一家法国小酒馆里,每 到餐点最后的点心时刻,所有人愉快地围着餐桌, 我们屏住呼吸、带着窃笑,看着最大份的泡芙或是 帕芙洛娃蛋糕,总是落在我母亲的面前,其他人的 份量相形见绌。她就像是施了魔法一般,身躯那么 娇小,却总是能拿到最大份的甜点,仿佛侍者独钟 她一人。这道料理便是致敬那位家族中的仙子、拥 有所向披靡的魔力、力量与身形不成比例的,我的 母亲。

started,” says Dartnall. “Each and every one of my dishes told the story of why I selected the ingredients.” Early on, she focused on exploring individual ingredients – seven varieties of carrots or twelve kinds of tomatoes, for example. As she grew more confident, she began to portray experiences. Her current menu features a dish that draws on memories of playing under a tent of her grandmother’s freshly laundered sheets, another that takes inspiration from sights and scents in the surrounding Francolin Conservancy, and a third that tells of ancient African traditions of sustainable fishing with bamboo traps. “Chefs are so busy that they rarely have the opportunity to tell guests the story behind their dishes and their menus,” she says. “But for me, it’s important to have that connection and ensure that guests understand why I’m cooking the way I am and why we’re located where we are.” She’d had enough, she says, of working in underground kitchens in the UK where she never saw a ray of sunshine during the winter. “I discussed opening a restaurant with my family, and I knew it had to be here, where I grew up. I needed that connection with nature. I want my chefs to work in an environment where they can see greenery and nature. Just imagine the energy going through their fingers into the food, the harmony they’re creating on the plates and sending out to the guests. “People ask why I don’t open a second restaurant. I think Mosaic’s success has to do with the energy from its surroundings. After you’ve visited the property, you can see why it would be impossible to capture that and recreate it anywhere else.”

Chantel 表示,在英国习艺期间, 位于地下室的厨房实在让她难以忍受, 尤其在冬季简直不见天日。她表示 : 「我跟家人商量要开设一家餐厅,而且 我知道非开在此处不可,这里是我自 小成长的地方。我需要与大自然有更 多亲近接触,也希望我的厨师能在放 眼皆是绿意盎然的自然环境中工作。 试想,厨师舞动指尖,将大自然生命 力揉进每道料理,每一盘美食散发浑 然天成的和谐美,然后还把这份喜悦 带给客人。 」 「很多人问我,为 Chantel 表示 : 『Mosaic』 什么不开第二家分店。我想, 的成功要归功于周遭美妙的大自然环 境,只要你来过这里,就能明白这样 的氛围真的不可能在别处重现。 」 wines across the cape

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TASTING DESTINATION

蔷薇初见

IT BEGAN WITH ROSÉ MOSES MAGWAZA, sommelier at Restaurant Mosaic, trained under the renowned French sommelier Germain Lehodey. A graduate of both the Cape Wine Academy and the International Wine Center, he is completing Level 3 accreditation with the Wine & Spirit Education Trust. He has also won the Eat Out Wine Service Award two years in a row. Recently, Magwaza was interviewed by TK ’s Mamie Chen:

What do you think is a sommelier’s most important skill? First of all, patience. You have to be able to understand people. Some people want something, but they don’t know what they want. So you have to be very patient and ask questions to figure it out. What type of wine do they usually enjoy? Is it more on the fruit side, the sweeter side, the dry side, or the robust side? That’s where I can start. You also have to get people interested in wines by telling stories about the vineyard and how the wine is made. I could talk forever about a glass of wine. Just yesterday, there was a lady who did not want the wine pairing. But after she heard me introducing the wine to the other guests, she asked, “Why can’t I have that wine?”

「Mosaic」的侍酒师 Moses Magwaza,师从大名鼎鼎的 法国侍酒师 Germain Lehodey,毕业于「Cape 葡萄酒学 院」和「国际葡萄酒中心」 ,目前即将完成在「葡萄酒与 烈酒教育基金会」的第三级认证。他更连续两年赢得「Eat

Out 葡萄酒服务奖」。以下为 TK 资深作家 Mamie Chen 与 Moses 的专访内容 : 身为侍酒师,您认为最重要的技能是什么? 「耐心」绝对是第一优先,还要能懂客人的心。有些 人想喝某种酒,却说不出那种酒的特征。这时候就得保持 耐心,循循善诱,多问问题,从他的回答中找答案。可以 问他们平常喜欢喝什么酒?是果味重的?甜或不甜?浓 烈不浓烈?我一般是从这个方向入手的。 讲讲庄园的故事,或是那瓶酒的制造过程,也是引 起客人兴趣的方法。即便是一杯酒,我都能聊一辈子。好 比早前有一位女士,起初并没有选搭餐酒。后来她听到我 跟其他客人介绍这瓶酒,她就问 : 「我能不能也尝一尝?」

您是何时开始对葡萄酒产生兴趣的?

How did you get interested in wine? I was working in the garden at the time when the restaurant and hotel were just getting ready for operation. Cobus du Plessis [Chantel Dartnall’s father and the restaurant’s cellar master] asked me to help move his wine collection from his private cellar into Mosaic’s. I asked a lot of questions, and Cobus could see I had an interest in wine. So he started to explain it and gave me some booklets to read. Eventually, he gave me a glass of rosé to taste, as if to say, “This is what I’m talking about.” I don’t remember the label, because I didn’t know anything about wine then. I remember it was fruity and tasty – nothing like the beer and whisky I knew. I thought to myself that I could enjoy drinking this. That’s when I really started to get interested in wines.

其 实 餐 厅 与 酒 店 刚 完 工, 准 备 开 始 营 业 时, 我 是 在花园工作的。有一次 Cobus du Plessis(主厨 Chantel

Dartnall 的父亲,也是餐厅的酒窖总管)请我协助将私人 收藏的酒搬运到「Mosaic」的酒窖。 过程中,我提问许多问题,Cobus 看出我对葡萄酒 的兴趣,便开始传授知识,并挑选一些书让我阅读。最后 他递给我一杯玫瑰红葡萄酒 : 「这就是我跟你说过的那种 酒。 」那时我对酒还懵懵懂懂,也不记得酒的品牌,只记 得尝起来果香很重、很美味,不像我认知的任何啤酒或威 士忌。当下心里就浮现一个念头 : 「也许我懂得品尝这款 酒。 」从那时起,便对葡萄酒兴致盎然。

哪种食材最难与酒搭配?

What ingredients do you find difficult to pair? Tomatoes can be challenging. We’re so lucky to have the chenin blanc from Domaine du Clos Naudin in our cellar. The 2003 Vouvray Demi Sec has a nice acidity and is not overpowering in sweetness, so it balances both the acidity and sweetness that you can get from tomatoes.

番 茄 还 满 棘 手 的。 所 幸 我 们 酒 窖 里 藏 有 du Clos Naudin 酒 庄 的 白 诗 南 葡 萄 酒。 这 瓶 The 2003 Vouvray Demi Sec 酸度恰到好处,甜度也适宜,刚好与番茄的酸 甜味互补平衡。

如何为「Mosaic」选搭餐酒?

How do you approach pairings at Restaurant Mosaic? Working with Chantel is amazing. When she has a dish that’s ready for pairing, she deconstructs it so we can taste the individual elements. If we find an ingredient that doesn’t work with the wine, sometimes she can adjust the recipe. I don’t think there are many chefs who do this. But Chantel encourages everyone to taste, taste, taste. It makes life much easier. Of course if the ingredient is one of the main components of the dish, that’s when we scratch our heads. It’s fun when Cobus and each of the sommeliers brings a bottle to see which one is going to win the pairing. When you nail it, a punch in the air – yes!

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与主厨 Chantel 合作是极好的事情。每当有新菜式 需要搭配餐酒时,她会将所用食材一一呈现,让我们单独 品尝每一种元素。要是我们觉得其中的某样食材与酒有点 不搭,她会加以微调或置换食材。这种事可不是每位厨师 都会做,Chantel 就是这么特别,总是鼓励我们多多尝试。 我们的工作也因为她,变得容易许多。 当然,要是需要调整的食材刚好是那道料理的主角, 就有点伤脑筋了。这时候,Cobus 和其他侍酒师就会各显 本领拿出推荐的酒,评比哪款最适合,这过程非常有趣。 赢的人就能高举双手并大喊高呼 : 「YES !」


TASTING DESTINATION

创意无界

CROSSING BOUNDARIES Three Cape Town restaurateurs take Fyn’s contemporary cuisine to the edge.

右上方顺时针往下依序为:「乌贼拉面」、柑橘佐鰤鱼和蓝虾生鱼 片、松露茶碗蒸、腌黄瓜及白萝卜与红萝卜泡菜、日式生黑斑羚肉

乍看之下,这碗「乌贼拉面」平平无奇。浓郁的海鲜香味随

「有道日本料理称为乌贼素面,就是把乌贼 Tempelhoff 说 :

着热气冉冉上升,蜷曲面条赏心悦目,吸附饱满汤汁,每一

切成长条状,看起来就跟面条一样,但是生吃的,也不会卷

口都齿颊生香。面条上摆着当地栽种的无花果与海蓬子,用

起来。有一天我们突发奇想,用这种独特的方法处理乌贼。 」

奶油稍微嫩煎,增添一股甜甜咸咸的平衡风味作结。

这道菜式恰好灵活运用了 Peter 与两位合伙人 Ashley Moss 与 Jennifer Hugé 至臻完美的烹调技艺,不仅创意十足,

殊不知这道料理暗藏玄机,只消咬一口便恍然大悟。

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「面」其实不是面,是一条条切成细丝的鱿鱼,经猛火快炸

突显当地食材风味,与南非紧密攸关,又富含日本料理的元

后卷曲如拉面一般。开普敦新开幕餐厅「Fyn」的老板 Peter

素。餐厅墙面摆满形似算盘的饰品,映照着一整片垂挂着一

TK | wines across the cape

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Clockwise from top right: “squid ramen,” yellowtail and obsiblue prawn sashimi with ponzu, truffle chawanmushi, pickled cucumbers and daikon radish and carrot kimchi, and impala tataki

T H E B O W L O F “ S Q U I D R A M E N ” appears straightforward enough at first glance. A rich seafood aroma rises with the steam. The delightfully curly noodles are shaped to capture the luscious broth with every slurp. And a topping of locally grown figs and samphire, lightly sautéed in butter, adds sweet and salty notes for balance and finish. But the dish’s playful nature becomes apparent with the first bite. The noodles are in fact pieces of squid, thinly sliced and flash-fried to curl like ramen. “There’s a Japanese dish called squid somen ,” says Peter Tempelhoff, co-owner and visionary of Cape Town’s newly launched Fyn. “It has squid slices that resemble noodles, but it’s served raw and they don’t curl up. One day we just came up with our own unique and fun way to serve squid.” T he dish neatly captures the culinary approach perfected by Tempelhoff and partners Ashley Moss and Jennifer Hugé: innovative, ingredient-focused food that’s deeply grounded in its South African setting and takes inspiration from Japanese cuisine. The thematic duality is echoed in the interior’s abacus-like wall decorations that mirror a striking ceiling hung with strings of oversized African wooden beads. The ramen is served kaiseki-style with three other starters that are beautifully plated on roughly finished earthenware and simple stoneware pieces arranged artfully on an oak tray. Fyn’s dishes feature largely local ingredients, including seafood from South African waters, game from nearby farms, and produce custom-grown by a Cape Town farmer.


Sweet and tender langoustine from Mozambique is served with a Thai-style coconut curry sauce with langoustine bisque and accompanied by pan-fried salsify, tempura king oyster mushrooms, pickled onions, and crimson seaweed. 来自莫桑比克的香甜软嫩挪威海螯虾,搭配泰式椰香咖喱酱与螯虾 浓汤,佐以香煎黑婆罗门参、杏鲍菇天妇罗、腌洋葱和红海藻 WINES ACROSS THE CAPE | TK |

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The iconic Japanese citrus stars in a bright and vibrant dessert of yuzu kurd and fresh blueberries poached in yuzu stock. Coconut ice cream brings balance to the dish, while a crumble of puffed wild rice coated in white chocolate brings added texture. 以著名的日本柚子为主角,制成轻盈、鲜明的柚子奶 冻及柚子汁蓝莓。椰子冰淇淋中和整道料理的风味, 再配搭淋上白巧克力的米通,带来更有层次的口感

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TASTING DESTINATION

Gesturing toward the kaiseki tray, Tempelhoff explains, “This is where the whole concept started. Guests no longer want to sit down to a three-anda-half-hour tasting menu with a waiter coming over eleven times to explain each course.” After presiding over his share of such marathons during a twentytwo-year career, Tempelhoff realized that it was time for a fresh idea. Fyn’s dinner menu comprises a bento box of four canapés, a kaiseki tray of four starters, and another of three desserts. Interspersed between are a course of French bread and savory bone marrow coal, an interactive palate cleanser that involves freeze-dried flowers and a Japanese mortar and pestle, and an inspired main course of locally raised Peking duck served with white-fleshed bride eggplant. “By serving three or four courses together on a kaiseki tray,” says Tempelhoff, “we’re able to concentrate the experience and give our guests a wonderfully full range of flavors and textures.”

串串硕大非洲木珠的天花板,如此装潢可谓与料理的 双重主题相互呼应。 拉面的摆盘风格犹如怀石料理般精致,粗制陶器 装着三道前菜,简约无华的陶盘以及陶碗陈列在橡木 盘上,充满艺术气息。 「Fyn」的料理几乎都采用当地 食材 :海鲜来自南非海域,肉类产自邻近农场,蔬果 则由一位开普敦农夫为餐厅量身定做。 「整体 Peter 一边指着怀石料理盘,一边解释道 : 概念就从这里开始。以往顾客要坐三个半小时才吃完 一整套料理,期间服务生上菜超过十一次,还要等服 务生一一说明每道菜肴。现在的顾客已经不想这样等 了。 」Peter 在这种马拉松式的宴席间付出二十二年的 心力,其后他发现,转变的时刻到了。 「Fyn」的晚餐菜谱包含一个装有四道开胃小菜的 便当盒,一个装有四道前菜的怀石料理盘,另一个装 有三道甜点的料理盘。穿插其中的,则是法国面包佐

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

香气四溢的烧烤骨髓 ;顾客自己动手用日式研钵和研 杵捣磨的冷冻花卉,用来清新味蕾 ;还有一道以当地 养殖的鸭烹制而成的北京烤鸭创意料理佐白肉茄子。 「我们在怀石料理盘上同时摆放三到 Peter 表示 : 四种料理,顾客就可专注体验和品尝各种美味与口感 的享受。 」 Co-owners Jennifer Hugé, Peter Tempelhoff, and Ashley Moss

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PRESENTED BY PASERENE

逆风高飞

TAKING FLIGHT Paserene brings Napa Valley style to boutique wines that express distinctively South African terroirs.

“My wines will always be different, and Paserene has found its following. 我的酒永远与众不同,Paserene 也逐渐走出

WINEMAKER MARTIN SMITH radiates contentment. He sits

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自己的路。”

DAVID HARTUNG

at a makeshift tree-stump table beside an enchanting little dam on his property at the foot of the Witzenberg Mountains near Tulbagh, about seventy-five kilometers east of Cape Town. Vigorously swirling a glass of his deep ruby bordeaux-style 2016 Marathon, he breathes in the newly released aromas of blackcurrant and black cherry with undertones of camphor and cedar. Then he sips, rolling the velvety liquid across his tongue and aspirating the wine before swallowing. “It’s doing really well,” he says. “This wine is absolutely singing out here in the sun.” Smith based the name Paserene on a term for the taxonomic order that includes swallows and swifts, birds that symbolically feature on his labels. And like the swallow on every bottle of Marathon, Smith has flown “the long way home.” Although he actually resides a hundred kilometers south near Paserene’s tasting room and winemaking facilities in Franschhoek, he is in many ways making a home in Tulbagh, where he sources the grapes for his red blends and has planted new cabernet sauvignon vines that he expects to harvest in two years. Here, the summers of hot days and cold nights are similar to those of California’s Napa Valley. There Smith spent a decade honing his viticultural and oenological skills on full, ripe, black-fruit cabernet sauvignons and full, ripe, golden-flavored chardonnays. “My time in California has had a direct effect on the wines I want to make,” he says. Even now, he holds in his mind Robert Foley’s Hourglass wines as the standard for comparison. “You always love to make the wines you started out with.” For his chardonnay, Smith gained access to an excellent block in the Elgin district, but quickly realized that the coolerclimate grapes naturally yielded something more linear and steely than the ripe fruit flavors he had originally sought. “Paserene Chardonnay is almost like a chablis,” he says. “She’s a crowd pleaser, fragile but still powerful, and I love her for that.” He’s also looking to source grapes elsewhere for a bigfruit chardonnay, perhaps separate from the Paserene label. In Tulbagh, Smith found a climate and soil type that grows grapes better suited to his preferred style of reds. It was serendipity that brought him to the district when he was launching his own label. He was on the hunt for syrah, because his


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employer at the time, Vilafonté, wouldn’t permit him to use varietals that would compete with their Series bordeaux blend. Over the phone, an industry friend put him in touch with a Tulbagh farmer known as Uncle Tony. “Funny thing is,” says Smith, “I wasn’t a syrah guy. But I managed to get enough to make two barrels. And I also discovered that he had cabernet sauvignons that were exquisite.” By pure luck, Smith found a block of cabernet clone 338 vines, a variety he knew well from California. “People would give a lot to have these,” he says. They were likely the first ever planted in South Africa and just coming into their prime at twelve years of age. Uncle Tony has since sold his farm

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酿酒师 Martin Smith 脸上透着满意的神情。这里是他在图尔巴附近威兹伯格 山脉脚下的一座庄园,位于开普敦以东约七十五公里。在这里,他坐在临时 搭建的树干桌旁,边上有座迷人的小水坝。摇晃着杯中的 2016 波尔多风味

Marathon,他大口地嗅闻从杯中渗出的新鲜黑醋栗和黑樱桃香,以及樟木和 雪松香气。接着,他浅尝一口,让鹅绒般柔滑的液体在舌尖翻动,入喉​​前于 口腔里反覆吸允。他说 : 「真是好酒。这酒在阳光下显得耀眼夺目。 」

Paserene 这名称是引用鸟类学名中的一个类别,这类别包含了家燕和雨 燕,也就是酒瓶品牌包装上的象征。如同酒瓶包装上的那只燕子,Martin 回 家也得「长途跋涉」 。虽然他住在法国角,但他大多时间以图尔巴为家,在这 里采收葡萄,最近更种下新的赤霞珠葡萄藤,希望能在两年后收成。 这里的夏天昼热夜冷,与加州的纳帕郡非常相似。Martin 曾在那待了十 年,专攻饱满成熟的黑赤霞珠葡萄及黄金风味霞多丽葡萄,磨练葡萄栽培及 酿酒技术。他称 : 「在加州的日子,形塑了我心目中向往酿的酒。 」时至今日, 「人总会不忘初 他仍将 Robert Foley 的沙漏酒当作心中的参照标准。他续称 : 衷地去酿造与自己渊源最深的酒。 」

Martin 在埃尔金地区找到一块宝地种植霞多丽葡萄,但很快就发现这种 凉爽地区的葡萄品种,比起原先追求的成熟葡萄风味更来得清凛、生硬。他 说: 「Paserene 的霞多丽葡萄很像夏布利葡萄,一尝就会深深着迷。该酒的


PRESENTED BY PASERENE

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The swallow on Marathon’s front label represents Smith’s long travels in pursuit of winemaking knowledge, while the Union label depicts the coming together in Tulbagh of a girl and a swift, Mother Nature and the winemaker, respectively. Marathon酒标上的燕 子,代表Martin在酿 酒路上的长久追寻, 而Union酒标上的女孩 及雨燕,分别代表大 自然与酿酒人,以及 两者在图尔巴的相遇

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PRESENTED BY PASERENE

“This wine is absolutely singing out here in the sun.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

这酒在阳光下显得耀眼夺目。”

to Juergen Mayer, who works closely with Smith to grow the cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot that go into the Marathon blend, along with their own carménère that they’ll be planting this year. The vineyards also produce the syrah, carignan, and mourvèdre that make up the Union blend. Smith visits the farm at least once a week, and twice during harvest, to monitor the grapes. Pacing the rows of syrah, Smith confers with Mayer, pulling off berries and tasting them at random. He squeezes a drop onto the quartz surface of a refractometer and holds it up to the light. Earlier, Mayer had found some grapes with a sugar level as high as 27, but the syrah are uneven this year. “23.5,” reports Smith. “The skins still need to soften. I think we’re going to have to go quite ripe.” They’ll be ready for harvest, he believes, in about a week’s time. Some will go for the Union blend and others for a new rosé. The two men walk past the mourvèdre and carignan toward the cabernet sauvignon, whose small berries are gratifyingly uniform. “Now you just have to water a little bit for the heat wave,” says Smith. The temperature has soared past 40˚C but will drop back at night. As in Napa, the dramatic temperature swings help produce quality fruit for wines with high acid, high fruit, and full body characteristics. But tonnages in the Tulbagh district won’t rival those that South Africa’s well-known Stellenbosch vineyards normally yield. “There are some very old wine estates here,” says Smith, “but somehow grape production never really took off. Many winemakers prefer other climates, but I believe this is the best area. My wines will always be different, and Paserene has found its following.”

The sun sets into the mountains beyond Paserene’s tasting room, designed as an understated, contemporary interpretation of a swallow’s nest. 夕阳于后方群山间缓缓落下,映照在Paserene以燕巢风格设计的品酒室, 透出低调现代风格

酒体柔弱,风味却很刚劲,我就喜欢这点。 」他亦四处寻找大颗的霞多丽葡萄, 将来也许会另创子品牌。

Martin 在图尔巴找到一处气候与土壤皆宜之处种植他心目中的红葡萄。 那时他还在着手创立品牌,而发现这块地完全是意料之外。Martin 的前雇主

Vilafonté,不许他使用会与自家波尔多产品线相冲突的葡萄品种,因此他转 战找寻西拉葡萄。当时,透过与同业友人电话沟通,Martin 得知图尔巴有位 名叫 Uncle Tony 的农夫有兴趣合作。 「我不是很喜欢西拉葡萄,却还是想办法取得够做两桶酒的 Martin 说 : 份量。过程中,我意外发现他们家的赤霞珠葡萄品质非常优异。 」幸运地, 「这品 Martin 找到所熟知的赤霞珠克隆 338 加州品种的葡萄藤。他表示 : 种可是人人抢着要的珍品。 」这些葡萄大概是南非初次引进的第一批,正好 处在巅峰的十二年期。随后,Uncle Tony 便转卖庄园予 Martin 密切合作的 Juergen Mayer,由此两人就开始一起种植 Marathon 混酒所需的赤霞珠及小 维多葡萄,今年也种下卡门内葡萄。庄园内还有西拉、卡利浓、慕维得尔葡萄, 用来制作 Union 混酒。Martin 每周至少会到庄园视察一次,收成季节则到访 两次,以管控葡萄品质。 走在一列列的西拉葡萄藤间,Martin 与 Juergen 边讨论边随手采摘果实 品尝。他将果汁挤在验光仪的石英表面上,再举高,让光线透射过去。稍早

Juergen 找到一些甜度高达 27 度的果实,不过今年的西拉葡萄甜度参差不齐。 Martin 相信,大约一周内这些葡萄就可以收成,将选一部分用来做 Union 混 酒,其他的做粉红酒。 两人走过慕维得尔、卡利浓葡萄,再走到赤霞珠葡萄区,赤霞珠葡萄的 「因为热浪的关系,得 小果实一颗颗长得整齐划一,非常标致。Martin 说 : 再多浇点水才行。 」白天温度会飙升至摄氏 40 度,到了夜晚才会回降。纳帕 郡也是一样的气候,要制作高酸度、高果实含量、酒体浓厚的葡萄酒,需要 优质的葡萄。急遽的温度变化,让这类葡萄品质更加提升。然而,图尔巴区 「许 的葡萄产量,还是无法超越南非有名的斯泰伦博斯区的产量。Martin 说 : 多酿酒人偏好别区的气候,我却唯独钟情此区,并坚信这里具备了最好的风 」 土条件。我的酒永远与众不同,Paserene 也逐渐走出自己的路。

Paserene is currently seeking a distributor in Hong Kong. Contact or purchase wines at www.paserene.co.za, info@paserene.co.za, +27 (21) 876 2714. Paserene目前正开拓香港市场,欢迎有意购买或合作者联络洽谈。 wines across the cape

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逐鹿之旅

QUEST TO BE BEST The FMC, Ken Forrester’s iconic chenin blanc, challenges the world’s top white wines.

WHEN SOUTH AF RIC AN WINEMAKER Ken Forrester was in France’s Loire Valley learning the tricks of chenin blanc production from Bernard Germain of Château de Fesles, he tasted an amazing 1947 vintage that was, he says, “hands down, the best white wine I had ever tasted.” It was a moment of profound revelation for him, the idea that a grape widely accepted in South Africa as a workhorse variety for bulk blends or brandy distillation was capable of producing a world-class wine.

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Owner Ken Forrester is known within the industry as “Mr. Chenin Blanc.” 庄主Ken Forrester在业界有 「白诗南先生」的美名

来自南非的酿酒师 Ken Forrester, 当年曾在法国卢瓦尔河谷, 向菲乐酒庄 (Château de Fesles) 的 Bernard Germain 大师讨教白诗南葡萄 (chenin blanc) 酿造技术。 「那是我此生尝过最棒 当时,他尝到一支惊为天人的 1947 年葡萄酒。Ken 说 : 的白葡萄酒,无庸置疑。 」那一刻,他心中留下深刻的启示 : 「没想到,在南非 广受欢迎、用来做桶装酒及蒸馏白兰地的主要品种,居然也能做出世界级的葡 萄酒。 」那时起,他便为自己的庄园定下愿景。同时,他也携手酿酒好友 Martin 「不只是最好的白诗南,也不仅只是生产南非最好 Meinert,共同追寻他所说的 : 的酒,而是酿出世上最棒的白葡萄酒。 」 (Forrester Meinert 白诗南 ) 的葡萄,两人从庄 为了种出他们名为「FMC」 园最古老的白诗南种植区着手,听从顾问的建议,将那些老品种拔除,换成白苏


PRESENTED BY KEN FORRESTER

A bottle of Ken Forrester’s flagship wine, The FMC, rests on a 45-year-old chenin blanc bush vine.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Ken Forrester的旗舰葡萄酒「FMC」,伫立 在一丛四十五岁的白诗南葡萄藤上

From that point, the vision for his vineyard was set. Forrester joined forces with fellow winemaker Martin Meinert and together they embarked on a quest to make, as he says, “not just the best chenin, not just the best wine in South Africa, but the best white wine in the world .” To create what they were to name The FMC (Forrester Meinert Chenin), they turned to the vineyard’s oldest block of chenin blanc bush vines, the very ones that consultants had advised Forrester to tear out and replace with sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. Very quickly they discovered that their lofty goal was much easier said than bottled. Of their first three attempts between 1997 and 1999, Forrester simply says, “terrible, awful,” as he laughingly intones a sad trombone womp , womp . The pair finally struck gold in 2000 and brought the result to a London wine show, where critics couldn’t believe that what they were tasting was actually chenin blanc, and from South Africa at that. The crucial difference had been switching their focus from the winemaking process to management of the fruit. Forrester remarks of their epiphany, “We don’t make the wine, the fruit makes the wine.” S i n ce t h e n , t h e y ’ve b e e n l e ve ra g i n g Normalized Difference Vegetation Index (NDVI) technology to break the FMC block into smaller sections defined by their canopy density and group together grapes that share similar qualities of fruit, levels of intensity, and rates of ripening. For a period of about three weeks, the block looks like a crime scene, with different sections randomly cordoned off with hazard tape, as the team returns six or seven times to methodically harvest the designated grapes section by section. Each batch is vinified separately to allow full control in blending the components back together to shape the year’s vintage. “Assembling The FMC from the different batches is like building a giant Jenga tower,” says Forrester. “Ultimately, I’m trying to create powerful elegance in the wine. But you have to go for that fullness while also holding back for the elegance. It’s like you’re fighting against what you’re trying to achieve, and it’s a fascinating challenge every year. Are we the best ? We’re in the right mix, and I’m quite happy with that.”

维翁和霞多丽。尽管已踏出第一步,但很快地,他们发现要达到这个远大的志向, 「非 难如登天。1997 到 1999 这三年初试啼声的产品,Ken 给出直截了当的评语: 常难喝,难以下咽。 」他一边说着,一边哭笑不得地发出「哇,哇,哇,哇喔 ~」 的声音。

2000 年,两人终于成功并带着成品到伦敦的酒品展,结果让评审大吃一 惊,不敢相信口中所尝的是由白诗南所酿出的酒,而且还产自南非。成功的关键, 主要是重心的转移,从注重酿酒过程,转而专心控管葡萄的品质。Ken 为他们的 顿悟补充 : 「原来酿酒的从来就不是我们,是葡萄本身。 」 后来,他们更利用常态化差值植生指标 (NDVI),观察植被的密度差异,将 FMC 种植区切分,把那些特性相似、浓淡相近、成熟度也接近的葡萄归为一区。

执行此计划的头三周,整区看起来活像个犯罪现场,每个切分区只用警戒线克 难地围起来,团队也在那段期间,系统性地一区接一区采收了六、七次。每批 葡萄都分开酿造,以精准管控混和酒里的每个元素,最后才能酿制成该年的产品。 「把每批不同的 FMC 调和在一起,就像在盖一座巨大的叠叠乐。 Ken 说 : 我的终极目标是做出既有力度又不失优雅的葡萄酒,追求力度饱满亦保持优雅 的风范。就像是在接自己打的球,想打得远,又怕接不到,每年就持续在如此 迷人的挑战中奋斗。问到我们是不是最棒的?我只能说,酿制的比例恰到好处, 我个人非常满意。 」 wines across the cape

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Paul Cluver’s chardonnay vineyard was the first to be commercially planted in the cool-climate Elgin region in 1986. Paul Cluver是1986年首个在气候清爽的埃尔金地区进行商业种植的霞多丽葡萄园

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IN DEPTH

岁月共荣

VINTAGE 360 Hong Kong wine writer TERSINA SHIEH goes to Cape Town to discover New World wines that increasingly reflect their South African identity.

IT STARTED IN 1659 when Jan van Riebeeck brought in the Cape’s first grape harvest, bottling wine intended to ward off scurvy on the long voyages of the Dutch East India Company’s fabled spice-route fleet. Today, with a 360-year history spent largely in relative obscurity, South Africa’s wine producers are boldly emerging into their own. Recent years have seen international experts like Jancis Robinson, Tim Atkin, and Neal Martin growing louder in their praises of the country’s expanding range of highly notable wines. Last September, the 2018 edition of CapeWine, the triennial premier trade show for South African wines, adopted the theme of hannuwa , a word borrowed from the nation’s ancient indigenous peoples that signifies living in harmony with the land. Twentyfour hundred international attendees at the threeday event had the chance to participate in this revived spirit of balance by tasting its varied manifestations from today’s dynamic generation of South African winemakers. 故事起源自 1659 年,当时 Jan van Riebeeck 带回了 开普敦的首批收成葡萄,把葡萄酒装瓶是为了预防 荷兰东印度公司在香料贸易的航途中可能发生的坏 血病。虽说之后 360 年间的历史记载模糊,但如今, 南非的葡萄酒制造商早已大胆地投入产业之中。 近几年,国际级酒评家 Jancis Robinson、Tim Atkin 和 Neal Martin 对南非新兴的顶级葡萄酒种类 赞誉有加。CapeWine 是南非葡萄酒三年一度的重 要 贸 易 展。2018 年 九 月 的 展 览 以 hannuwa 为 题, 该词源于原住民语言,意即与土地共生共荣。在为 期三天的活动中,二万四千名来自世界各地的参与 者,藉由品尝这一代活跃酿酒师的美酒来体会复兴 且和谐的氛围。

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In conservative circles, where vintage is often the major factor in determining a wine’s price, it took courage to make such a wine. 新 兴 浪 潮

THE NEW WAVE

在 传 统 葡 萄 酒 界, 酒的价格大多取 决 于 年 份, 因 此 酿造无年份葡萄 酒更需要勇气。

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A M O N G T H E A U D A C I O U S B A N D is

Swartland Independent Producers, named for their hot and arid growing region in the Western Cape north of Cape Town. By the time of CapeWine 2012, they were already making their mark as a like-minded group who believe in the true expression of the region’s terroirs and that every wine should proclaim its unique character. Members adhere to a set of viticultural guidelines, including the conservation of old vines and the principle of minimal manipulation. This first wave, including Sadie Family Wines, Mullineux, and Rall Wine, is now firmly established in the international wine world. Husband-and-wife team David and Nadia Sadie started their David & Nadia label with only a couple of barrels of two different wines, but have now expanded their range to eight reds and whites. Their white blend Aristargos has gone from seven hundred bottles in 2010 to more than twelve thousand last year. The pair has also ventured on a pinotage, South Africa’s controversial signature grape, a cross between pinot noir and cinsault. “Pinotage has suffered from bad reputation, because of overextraction,” says David. “With better understanding of the variety – planting in the right area, revival of old plots, and gentler handling of the grapes in the cellar, pinotage can evolve into a wine that excites the palate.” Another adventurous Swartland winemaking duo is Samantha Suddons and Ryan Mostert. Their nonvintage Smiley NV derives its tongue-in-cheek name from the South African term for a sheep’s head, an offcut that is considered a delicacy by many. In conservative circles, where vintage is often the major factor in determining a wine’s price, it took courage to make such a wine, and the pair further defied taboos by using fermentation and aging techniques like skin contact, flor yeast maturation, maderization, and solera blending. Smiley white is 100


IN DEPTH

percent chenin blanc and the red version a Rhône blend. Suddons and Mostert also produce Silwervis, two single-vineyard vintage wines from chenin blanc and cinsault that are fermented in concrete eggs and limited to nine hundred bottles each. The name Silwervis is ironic wordplay on the Afrikaans colloquial term for the silver bag inside boxes of cheap mass-produced wines. “The label is a union of past and present,” says Suddons, “the past, represented by the devil, where people farmed aggressively and without care, and the present, represented by the mermaid, which highlights the delicate nature of our approach of natural winemaking.” The cinsault stands out as a sensory explosion that combines freshness and minerality with floral and savory characters. The pair’s latest project is Terracura, a Swartland syrah from six different vineyards. Its classic label, a far cry from the quirky images on Smiley and Silwervis, aptly echoes Mostert’s purist style. Zoo Biscuits, a loose association of indie producers that surfaced at CapeWine 2015, represents a second generation of new-wave winemakers that, like Swartland Independent Producers, believes in making elegant and restrained wines with minimum intervention. The difference is that they source grapes from the entire Western Cape rather than a single region. The name, taken from a favorite kids’ snack, reflects the playful nature of the group, who like to drink beer and surf when not making wine. Regrouped under the rubric The Zoo Cru at CapeWine 2018, they continue to exude creativity, passion, and energy. Their pavilion featured ’80s movie posters with images of the winemakers and permed hairstyles of the era. Wineries in the group include Crystallum, Hogan, Momento, Savage, and Thorne & Daughters. The new kid on the block at CapeWine 2018 was The Whole Bunch, a diverse collection of six winemakers. Although their backgrounds range from family-owned farms to start-ups and they span regions f ro m Ste l l e n b o s c h to H e r m a n u s, t h e common thread and driving force is product excellence. In both their individual spaces and collaborative effort, they seek to drive the story of world-class South African wines that offer exceptional value for quality. Outstanding producers among them include Gavin Bruwer and Bruwer Raats, cousins and founders of B Vintners, and Lukas van Loggerenberg, whose maiden release was in 2016.

斯瓦特兰德独立生产商联盟成立于开普敦以

瓶。Silwervis 取名自南非口语,带有些许反

北的西开普省内一处炎热不毛之地,并因此

讽意味,意思是用于大规模生产的廉价葡萄

闻名。在 2012 年的 CapeWine,联盟以秉持

「这个名称结 酒盒内的银袋。Samantha 说 :

一致的信念为招牌,坚持让葡萄酒真实呈现

合了过去与现在。过去,如魔鬼般恣意妄为

该地区的风土条件,让每一支葡萄酒都保有

地进行开垦种植,而现在,则如美人鱼般,

其独特性。联盟内的成员遵守相同的葡萄栽

重视美妙大自然所酿造出的美酒。 」神索葡

培指南,包括保留老葡萄藤和最少人为干预

萄结合新鲜花香和矿物咸味,带来味觉与口

原则。在第一波浪潮中, 赛蒂家族酒庄 (Sadie

感的冲击。他们的最新力作是 Terracura,一

Family Wines)、马利诺酒庄 (Mullineux) 和

款以来自斯瓦特兰德六个不同葡萄园的西

拉尔酒庄 (Rall Wine) 的葡萄酒成功地在国

拉葡萄酿造的酒。它的经典酒标与 Ryan 的

际葡萄酒界脱颖而出。

Sadie 夫妻档 David 和 Nadia 仅有少数几桶

极简风格一致,与自成一格的 Smiley 酒和 Silwervis 酒风格迥异。 2015 年 CapeWine 展 上, 出 现 专 门 招

的两种葡萄酒,至今他们的品项已增至八种

揽年轻独立酿酒师的协会 Zoo Biscuits,代

红酒及白酒,其中混酿白葡萄酒 Aristargos

表着第二代的新葡萄酒制造商,像斯瓦特兰

的 产 量, 从 2010 年 的 七 百 瓶 增 至 去 年 的

德独立生产商联盟一样,也秉持以最少人为

一万二千多瓶。二人更冒险尝试,由黑皮诺

干预酿造优雅细致的葡萄酒为原则,但相异

(Pinot Noir)和神索(Cinsault)混种的葡萄

之处在于他们的葡萄是采自整个西开普省,

在 创 立 其 David & Nadia 品 牌 之 初,

皮诺塔吉(Pinotage)酿酒,此品种颇具争

而非单一地区。Zoo Biscuits 此名取自人人

「皮诺塔吉葡萄酒因过度萃 议性。David 说 :

喜爱的儿童零食,反映了组织爱嬉戏玩耍的

取而声名受损。随着对这个品种有更多了解,

一面,因为成员于酿酒之余喜爱相聚喝啤酒

例如在适当区域种植、活化旧种植区、在地

和 冲 浪。 他 们 在 2018 年 CapeWine 展 上 以

窖中更细心地处理葡萄,我们能酿出更耐人

The Zoo Cru 为名重新亮相,持续展现创意、

寻味的皮诺塔吉葡萄酒。 」

激情与活力,他们的展位以八十年代电影海

斯瓦特兰德独立生产商联盟中,另一组 勇于尝试的双人组是 Samantha Suddons 和

报布置,上面印有各个戴着复古卷发造型的

语中的「羊头」 。在传统葡萄酒界,酒的价

酿 酒 师。 该 组 织 的 酿 酒 厂 包 括 Crystallum、 Hogan 、 Moment 、 Savage 和 Thorne & Daughters。 2018 年 CapeWine 展 中 的 新 参 展 团 体

格大多取决于年份,因此酿造无年份葡萄酒

是 The Whole Bunch,集结六位多元风格的

更需要勇气。他们甚至还利用发酵和陈年技

酿酒师。虽然他们的背景不一,既有家族事

术,如浸皮法、酒花发酵法、马德拉式氧化法、

业继承人,也有新创事业个人,所属地区也

索雷拉混酿法等来打破界限。Smiley white

从斯特兰德跨越到赫曼努斯,但彼此共同的

是百分之一百的白诗南(Chenin Blanc)多

信念与动力来源都在于创造卓越的产品。他

年份混酿白酒,与其相对的则是以罗讷河葡

们 各 自 贡 献, 亦 共 同 合 作 努 力, 寻 求 推 动

萄品种酿成的红酒。

世 界 级 质 量 兼 优 的 南 非 葡 萄 酒。 酿 酒 师 包

Ryan Mostert。他们的无年份 Smiley NV 广 受大众喜爱,产品名字的字面意思是南非俚

Samantha 和 Ryan 还 生 产 Silwervis, 两种来自白诗南与神索葡萄的单一葡萄园

括同时是 B Vintners 创办人的堂兄弟 Gavin Bruwer 和 Bruwer Raats,以及 2016 年才首

酒,于蛋型混凝土罐中发酵,每种限量九百

次亮相的 Lukas van Loggerenberg。 wines across the cape

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制作天然甜葡萄酒一直是一 项昂贵而艰巨的任务。 葡萄 必 须 在 恰 当 的 地 方 生 长, 众 所 周 知, 它 们 处 于 变 化 无 常 的气候条件下。

HOW SWEET IT IS 甜 度 几 分

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IN DEPTH

WHEN IT COMES TO SWEE T WINES,

most people automatically think Old World. But a bold move at CapeWine 2018 saw five South African sweet wine producers pitting their best against five from Alsace, Jurançon, Sauternes, Tokaj, and Umbria in a doubleblind tasting. M aking natural sweet wines has always been an expensive and difficult undertaking. The grapes, which must be grown at just the right site, are notoriously at the mercy of fickle climatic conditions. Noble-rot wines like Sauternes and Tokaji aszu require misty mornings and sunny afternoons, while straw wines like Jurançon need dry weather to properly desiccate the fruit. And sweet wine grapes often have to be picked in several passes. Such limitations mean that few regions can reliably produce quality vintage after vintage. The fact that both international and local professionals agreed that the South African entries were more than able to hold their own against the Old World classics turned a tasting competition into a celebration of the world’s greatest natural sweet wines. Among South Africa’s finest was Mullineux Olersay 1º straw wine, a solera blend of healthy old-vine chenin blanc from Swartland soils based on decomposed granite. With multilayered notes of dried fruits, honey, and nuts and a freshness devoid of any cloying aftertaste, it could easily be mistaken for Chateau d’Yquem 2009. Another noteworthy entry was Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2014. Made from late-harvest, botrytis-free muscat de Frontignan, the wine is elegantly balanced between acidity and sweetness. Fresh stone fruits are complemented by marzipan and almond notes. Opulent yet fresh, it was a favorite of the European nobility in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, but production ceased after phylloxera devastated the vineyards. It took more than a century before it was reborn in 1986.

谈到甜葡萄酒时,大多数人都会自动地想到 旧世界葡萄酒。但在 2018 年 CapeWine 上, 五 位 南 非 甜 葡 萄 酒 生 产 商 大 显 身 手, 在 盲 、瑞朗 品 实 测 中 与 来 自 阿 尔 萨 斯(Alsace) 、 苏 玳(Sauternes) 、托卡伊 松(Jurançon) (Tokaj)和翁布里亚(Umbria)的葡萄酒相 互较竞。 酿造天然甜葡萄酒的成本高且过程艰 巨。众所周知,葡萄有特定气候为生长条件, 像是苏玳葡萄酒与贵腐甜酒,就需要有薄雾 的早晨和明媚的午后,而像瑞朗松白酒则需 要干燥的天气使果肉脱水。加上制作过程时 常需要多次采摘葡萄,这些限制意味着很少 有地区每年都能够生产出优质的葡萄 。 国际及国内的专家一致认同,即使是在 与旧世界葡萄酒的竞争中,南非葡萄酒的新 品亦足以保有一席之地,并将评酒大赛变成 世界顶级天然甜葡萄酒的飨宴。南非最好的 是马利诺稻草甜白葡萄酒 (Mullineux Olersay 1º straw wine), 利 用 生 长 在 斯 瓦 特 兰 德 地

Making natural sweet wines has always been an expensive and difficult undertaking. The grapes, which must be grown at just the right site, are notoriously at the mercy of fickle climatic conditions.

区、富含风化花岗岩土壤上的老藤白诗南葡 萄,再透过索雷拉法陈酿。由于带有干果、 蜂蜜和坚果的多层次口感却不留甜腻余味, 它很容易被误认为是滴金酒庄的贵腐白酒

(Chateau d’Yquem 2009)。 另一款值得注意的是克莱坦亚甜酒

(Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2014), 这是由最新一批无贵腐霉的麝香葡萄

(Muscat de Frontignan) 酿造而成,优雅地带 出酸甜度的平衡,以及新鲜硬核水果、杏仁 糖和杏仁香味。十八、十九世纪欧洲贵族最 爱它丰富而新鲜的口感,但是在根瘤蚜摧毁 葡萄园后始停产,一个多世纪后的 1986 年 才又再度投产。 wines across the cape

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FROM HEAVEN AND EARTH 天 上 人 间

比起酿酒师, Kevin 反而更喜欢 被称为农民,每年生产不同的静 心酒庄混酿干红葡萄酒,美妙地 传达了只谈「从何处」而不谈「从 何物」的精神。

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Grant, who prefers to be called a farmer rather than a winemaker, produces Serenity, a red blend whose differences from year to year beautifully express the “where from” rather than the “what from.”

H E M E L- E N - A A R D E , which means

“heaven and earth” in Afrikaans, is a coolclimate region off the Cape South coast. The fourth-smallest wine growing area in South Africa, it has sixteen estates with just over three hundred hectares under vines. Extending from the seaside town of Hermanus, it is divided into three wards: Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, Upper Hemel-enAarde Valley, and Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge. “The wards are distinctly different,” explains Kevin Grant of Ataraxia Wines in the Ridge. “In terms of climate, the maritime influence on the Valley, which is only fifteen hundred meters from the ocean, diminishes as it goes further inland resulting in more continental climate in the Ridge, with more than 10ºC difference between day and nighttime temperatures. Rainfall in the valley, which occurs mostly in winter and spring, is higher than that in London.” Grant, who prefers to be called a farmer rather than a winemaker, produces Serenity, a red blend whose differences from year to year beautifully express the “where from” rather than the “what from.” In Hemel-en-Aarde, whose claim to fame is Burgundian varieties of pinot noir and chardonnay, pinot noir generally ripens with lower pH, favoring tighter, brighter, more elegant wines. Soil and climate differences between the wards find striking expression: pinot noirs from the Valley are more structured, with higher tannins and predominant notes of dark fruits and spices; those from the Upper Valley have silkier tannins and savory palates; and those from the Ridge are more feminine, with softer mouthfeel but no lack of concentration. Admirably demonstrating these terroir distinctions is Storm Wines, the only producer making pinot noirs from all three wards

using the same winemaking technique. Hamilton Russell, harvesting its thirtyninth vintage in 2017, is the oldest winery in Hemel-en-Aarde. Considered to be at the forefront of cool-climate wines in South Africa, they make just one pinot noir and one chardonnay by blending their Valley vineyard plots to express the personality of the estate’s terroir. The latest additions to the region are Restless River, producing outstanding chardonnay and pinot noir as well as a surprisingly elegant cabernet sauvignon, and Tesselaarsdal, the creation of winemaker Berene Sauls. A former employee of Hamilton Russell for fifteen years, Sauls was offered a not-to-be-missed opportunity by Anthony Russell to make her own wine with the assistance of the estate’s expert team, including winemaker Emul Ross. “My village,” explains Sauls, is called Tesselaarsdal after East India Company settler Johannes Tesselaar, who gave this piece of land to his freed slaves to farm when he died in 1810. I source the grapes from an unirrigated vineyard in Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge, which is closest to my village.” Her maiden vintage of pinot noir in 2015 expanded to five tons in 2017, producing a well-balanced wine with good structure and freshness. She plans a chardonnay for 2019.

IN DEPTH

赫麦勒纳德 (Hemel-en-Aarde) 在南非语中 意为「天地」 ,位于开普南海岸附近的凉爽地 区,是第四小的葡萄种植区,有十六个庄园, 葡萄园面积超过三百公顷,从海边小镇赫尔 马努斯 (Hermanus) 一路延伸,分为天地山 谷、上天地山谷和天地山脊三个地区。 山 脊 产 区 静 心 酒 庄 (Ataraxia Wines in 「各区间 the Ridge) 的 Kevin Grant 解释道 : 的自然条件都不同。就气候而言,在距离海 洋一千五百米的地方,海洋的影响随着向内 陆延伸而递减,使山脊地区偏向大陆型气候, 日夜温差超过摄氏十度。山谷雨季主要集中 在冬天和春天,雨量多于伦敦。 」比起酿酒师,

Kevin 反而更喜欢被称为农民,每年生产不 同的静心酒庄混酿干红葡萄酒,美妙地传达 了只谈「从何处」而不谈「从何物」的精神。 赫麦勒纳德以勃艮第黑皮诺和霞多丽

(chardonnay) 两款葡萄品种闻名,黑皮诺成 熟时酸碱值较低,有利于更紧实、明亮、优 雅的葡萄酒。地区间土壤和气候的差异会造 就 出 惊 艳 的 口 感, 山 谷 区 的 黑 皮 诺 更 有 条 理、单宁更高、黑色水果和香料的风味更强 烈,来自上山谷区的则有着更丝滑的单宁和 些微的咸味,而来自山脊区的带有女性的优 雅, 口感柔顺却不失浓郁。施托姆酒庄(Storm Wines)以相同酿酒技术来展现三区不同风 土条件下酿制的黑皮诺。 汉密尔顿酒庄 (Hamilton Russell) 是赫 麦勒纳德最古老的酒庄,于 2017 年收获其第 三十九个年份。酒庄被认为是南非凉爽气候 葡萄酒的先躯,以山谷区葡萄品种酿制出一 款黑皮诺酒和一款霞多丽酒,展现庄园的风 土条件特色。 该地区的最新成员是莱斯河酒庄

(Restless River), 生 产 霞 多 丽、 黑 皮 诺 以 及 高 贵 的 赤 霞 珠 和 Tesselaarsdal。 酿 酒 师

Berene Sauls 曾在汉密尔顿酒庄任职达十五 年,Berene 在 Anthony Russell 的 帮 助 下 把 握千载难逢的机会,经庄园专家团队(包括 酿酒师 Emul Ross)协助酿造出自己的葡萄 「我的村庄以当时东印度 酒。Berene 说道 : 公司殖民者 Johannes Tesselaar 命名,被称 为 Tesselaarsdal,他在 1810 年去世时,将这 片土地交给他的自由奴隶耕种。葡萄是来自 天地山脊区一个未灌溉的葡萄园,距离我住 的村庄最近。 」2015 年她的黑皮诺葡萄酒在 2017 年扩产到五吨,是结构和新鲜度均衡的 葡萄酒,霞多丽则是她 2019 年的计划。 wines across the cape

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OLDER BUT WISER

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国内约两成的葡萄树尚在 二十五到三十四年之间, 很容易被栽种者连根拔 起,所以我们会在必要时 出手拯救。

老 而 睿 智


IN DEPTH

“Around 20 percent of vines in the country are between twenty-five and thirty-four years old, vulnerable to be pulled up by growers. We came around at just the right time to save them.”

南非虽属新世界,却历史悠久,依然保有古 老的葡萄园。然而,以往该国的葡萄酒界并 没有一个保存和记录这些葡萄园的系统,再 加上经济因素,老葡萄藤也被定期连根拔起。 近三十年的老葡萄藤,其产量已少到每公顷

SOUTH AFRICA MAY BE NEW WORLD,

but with such a long history, there are obviously old vineyards around. The industry, however, did not have a system to preserve and record these vineyards in the past, and old vines have been periodically uprooted because of economic factors. Since yields decline to around three tons per hectare as vines approach thirty years of age, the revenue from selling the grapes can be far less than the cost of maintaining the vineyards. Fortunately, the Old Vine Project (OVP) has brought hope to the situation. The project started informally in 2002 when viticulturist Rosa Kruger, after tasting distinctive wines made from old vines in Europe, began her search in South Africa. Such winemakers as Eben Sadie, Chris Alheit, Duncan Savage, and the Mullineuxs soon joined her pledge and began making wines from these old vines, often winning international acclaim in the process. In 2016, the project received the necessary funding from Anthonij Rupert Wines to carry out the Certified Heritage Vineyards program with the aim of preserving and recognizing vines older than thirtyfive years. Beginning with the 2017 vintage, winemakers can now certify any wine as

“Old Vine” that is made with grapes from approved vines. In recognition of the project, South African wine bible Platter’s Wine Guide includes, as of its 2019 edition, the Certified Heritage Vineyards icon next to each certified wine. “There are just over three thousand hectares of vines older than 35 years old in South Africa,” says André Morgenthal, communications manager for OVP, “which represents only 3.4 percent of total vineyard area. Around 20 percent of vines in the country are between twenty-five and thirty-four years old, vulnerable to be pulled up by growers. We came around at just the right time to save them.” Morgenthal is now working on a second classification to register vines at least twenty-five years old that need long-term protection. Many ask what old vines bring to the glass. At CapeWine 2018, Marco Ventrella, chief viticulturist of major producer KWV, explained that vines are much like people. Older ones “think” before they act and are more conservative in terms of growth and yield. They store surplus rainfall and sunshine as reserved energy rather than using it all up in the form of photosynthesis during the growing season. Their deeply anchored root systems, developed through harsh environmental and weather conditions, provide a buffering capacity that helps them adjust their growth cycles in trying times. While younger-vine wines are more fruit forward, old-vine wines are more reserved in expressing varietal character, a trait compensated for by superior texture and structure and by a truer expression of the soil. Old-vine wines may be thought of as ladies and gentlemen who, while still full of energy, are calmer, wiser, and more thoughtful.

约三吨,卖葡萄的收入还不足应付维护葡萄 园的成本。 幸运的是,老藤计划 (Old Vine Project) 为这种情况带来了希望。该计划于 2002 年 非正式开始,当时葡萄种植者 Rosa Kruger 在 品 尝 各 种 欧 洲 古 老 葡 萄 酒 后, 开 始 在 南 非 进 行 探 索。 像 Eben Sadie,Chris Alheit,

Duncan Savage 和 Mullineuxs 等酿酒师很快 就加入行列,开始用老藤葡萄酿造葡萄酒, 过程中不时赢得国际赞誉。2016 年,该项目 获得了 Anthonij Rupert Wines 提供必要资金, 用于开展传统葡萄园认证计划,旨在保护和 识别超过三十五年的葡萄藤。 从 2017 年份开始,酿酒师现在若用经 认证的老藤葡萄,即可将其所酿的葡萄酒认 证为「老藤」 ,为了表彰该项目,南非葡萄酒 圣经 ─《Platter’s Wine Guide》葡萄酒指南

2019 版中,在每款经认证的葡萄酒旁都标注 传统葡萄园认证的标章。 老藤项目的传讯经理 André Morgenthal 表示 : 「南非有超过三千公顷的葡萄树都已 超过三十五年,老藤葡萄园占总葡萄园面积 的百分之三点四,国内约两成的葡萄树尚在 二十五到三十四年之间,很容易被栽种者连 根 拔 起, 所 以 我 们 会 在 必 要 时 出 手 拯 救。 」

André 现在正在进行第二轮的分类,登记注 册二十五年以上需受长期保护的老藤。 许多人都好奇老葡萄藤能为一瓶酒带来 什么。在 2018 年 CapeWine 展上,主要生产 商 KWV 的 首 席 葡 萄 栽 培 师 Marco Ventrella 曾解释说葡萄藤就像人一样。年长者会三思 而后行,因此在生长和收获上相对保守。生 长季时,它们将剩余的雨水和阳光化为能量 储存,而不是立马就以光合作用的形式消耗 掉。恶劣的环境和天气条件使他们具有如锚 般的强根,帮助他们在艰难时期有调整生长 周期的缓冲能力。 年轻葡萄酒有明显的果味,陈年葡萄酒 则在口感表现上偏弱,但却拥有上等的质地、 结构以及更真实地呈现土壤特性,老藤葡萄 酒可以被喻为先生和女士,有些年纪却仍然 精力充沛、冷静沉着、设想周到。 wines across the cape

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虽然有些人可能会将老藤葡萄酒与陈年葡萄 酒混淆,但前者同时可以是年轻葡萄酒,后 者可以是由年轻葡萄藤酿成。对于任何优雅

精 益 求 精

BETTER AND BETTER

的陈年葡萄酒,它需要在结构上以单宁或酸 度来支持果味的浓酸度。 南非是新世界葡萄酒界最古老的生产国 之一,容易被误认为有丰富的老酒藏量。可 惜事实并非如此,因为大多数葡萄酿酒厂都 未设有大型的藏酒室。 然 而, 香 港 最 近 在 一 个 月 内 有 三 次 品 尝南非最好的陈年葡萄酒的机会。首先,香

wines with aged wines, the former may be young and the latter may be the product of younger vines. For any wine to age gracefully, it requires fruit concentration supported by structure from tannin or acidity. Since South Africa is among the oldest of New World producers, one might think it necessarily has a rich store of old wines. Unfortunately, this is not the case, because most of its wineries do not keep large libraries. Hong Kong, however, was recently favored with three opportunities in a single month to sample the best of aged South African wines. First, the Hong Kong Wine Society held a back-vintage tasting spanning the 1970s to the 2000s, with most of the wines sourced directly from producers. Although, according to organizer Greg De’eb, neither wine estates nor collectors normally deem South African wines older than thirty years worth collecting, everyone at the

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table was wowed. None of the twelve ’70s and ’80s wines that were blind tasted and ranked disappointed, but Nederburg The Winemaster’s Cabernet Sauvignon 1974 and 1976 and Villiera Merlot 1989 were the top picks. Two unrated wines that impressed all round were Villiera Charles de Fere Tradition Reserve Brut NV and Klein Constantia Riesling 1987. Both still have years of life ahead. Four weeks later, respected South African wine judge and consultant Michael Fridjhon, who curated Christie’s South African grand crus auction, presented sixteen stellar wines to the trade. Nederburg Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon 1975 left guests especially wide-eyed with appreciation. Then Hans Astrom from Klein Constantia arrived a few days later to showcase the estate’s legendary late-harvest sweet wine, Vin de Constance. The tenvintage lineup included three exquisitely well-aged exemplars: 1992, 1995, and 1999.

港葡萄酒协会举办品酒会,展示七十年代至 两千年间的酒款,其中大部分葡萄酒都直接 来 自 生 产 商。 召 集 者 Greg De’eb 说, 葡 萄 酒庄园和收藏家品尝后都赞叹不已,他们都 不认为超过三十年的南非葡萄酒才值得收 藏。在盲品实测中,七十年代和八十年代共 十 二 支 葡 萄 酒 的 排 名 也 都 没 令 人 失 望, 而 尼 德 堡 酒 庄 (Nederburg The Winemaster) 的 Cabernet Sauvignon 1974 和 1976, 以 及

Villiera Merlot 1989 是首选。两支未经评级 却令人印象深刻的葡萄酒是 Villiera Charles de Fere Tradition Reserve Brut NV 和 Klein

Constantia Riesling 1987,仍值得继续窖藏。 四周后,备受尊敬的南非葡萄酒评委兼 顾问 Michael Fridjhon 策划了佳士德南非葡 萄酒拍卖,献上十六支有机农庄葡萄酒,而 使 宾 客 为 之 惊 艳 的 则 是 Nederburg Vintage Cabernet Sauvignon 1975。 几天后,Hans Astrom 从克莱坦亚而来, 献上了克莱坦亚康斯坦庄园传奇的晚收天然 甜白葡萄酒 ─ Vin de Constance。十支年份 酒 的 阵 容 中 包 括 1992、1995、1999 年 三 支 经典陈年酒代表。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

ALTHOUGH SOME may confuse old-vine


IN DEPTH

前 景 展 望

THE WAY AHEAD OLD-VINE AND AGED WINES from South Africa are rare largely because of profitability and pricing factors. Increasingly, these considerations are affecting South African wines in general. Carina Gous, chairperson of Wines of South Africa, explains: “Nearly 40 percent of wine producers are loss-making or break-even, and another 49 percent are low profit. They are just not able to hold back old vintages.” And while the trade and consumers agree that the quality of South African wines is consistently high, they are reluctant to pay the premium prices commanded by comparable wines from better-known countries. In recent years, low profitability has meant continuing declines in planted vineyard acreage. This has created a vicious cycle that the industry is struggling to break, even as South Africa’s wine sector bubbles with excitement as never before. Established wine estates and young labels, old and new regions, classic and contemporary expressions complement and inspire one another, giving vibrant life to a wine scene that is at last speaking its authentic voice to the world.

由于获利能力和定价因素,来自南非的老藤 和陈年葡萄酒在市场上很少见。南非葡萄酒 「近四成葡萄酒生 主席 Carina Gous 解释说 : 产商深陷亏损或仅足以收支平衡,另有四成 九葡萄酒生产商则是利润很低,因此他们无 法不卖出旧年份的酒。 」虽然贸易商和消费者 都认为南非葡萄酒有稳定的高质量,但他们 较倾向购买产自其他知名国家的同类葡萄酒。 即使近年南非葡萄酒界正值前所未有的 蓬勃发展,但低获利终究导致葡萄园种植面 积的持续下降,这是葡萄酒界难以打破的恶 性循环。古老庄园和年轻品牌、新产区与旧 产区、经典传承和现代创新,彼此激荡、相 互辉映,为葡萄酒界带来蓬勃生机,向世界 传达真切的声音。

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OLD VINES

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老藤计划

OLD VINE PROJECT Winegrowers and producers combine efforts to preserve South Africa’s heritage vines that have reached the age of thirty-five.


OLD VINES

Four winemakers from the Swartland region discuss why they choose old-vine grapes and how the Old Vine Project is raising awareness of their value among growers, winemakers, and wine drinkers. 四位来自斯瓦特兰葡萄酒产区 畅谈他们选用老藤葡萄的原因, 以及老藤计划如何改变葡萄种植 者、酿酒师和葡萄酒爱好者对老 藤葡萄及老藤葡萄酒的评价。

ANDRÉ MORGENTHAL CO M M U N I C AT I O N S M A N A G E R O F T H E O L D V I N E P R OJ EC T 老藤计划传讯经理

“What we’ve managed to do is create such a buzz around old-vine wines that now we’ve convinced people in many ways. We keep the standard to thirty-five years and older. I often use the analogy of teenagers – they party hard, wake up in the morning with a cup of strong coffee. Older folks are not like that. They have to be more careful in their fifties. They have a career, perhaps a family, and they’re not clubbing every weekend. And old vines are like that. They come into balance. They see how much water they’ve got, what winter is going to be like. And they produce the correct amount of leaves and grapes according to the resources.” 「我们成功为老藤葡萄酒创造话题,如今人 们已渐渐认同并欣赏这种酒。能称作老藤, 至少得满三十五岁。我经常以人比喻,青年 喜欢彻夜狂欢,一早醒来头昏脑胀,摇摇晃 晃地要找一杯浓咖啡醒脑。年纪大一点就不 一样了,知命之年可不能那么放纵。基本上 已经有个稳定的工作,也许有个家庭,也不 再每个周末跑夜店。老藤就像中年人一样, 已找到自己的最佳平衡。它知道自己有多少 水份,了解怎么应对冬天,能依照现有资源 生长出适量的枝叶与果实。 」


CHRISTA VON LA CHEVALLERIE H U I S VA N C H E VA L L E R I E

“I was the first to use old vines in making chenin blanc zero dosage MCCs. For me, the fact that they were old vines was actually a secondary thought. The first was what is in the grape, what am I working with, what do I taste, what do I see? The indicators in the juice – the acidity and sugar and everything else – just started screaming bubbly base to me. Then I started digging into the vineyard – who planted it, how old was it. Funnily enough, in my twenty hectares of chenin blanc, the one I had selected had the oldest vines. The reason I do the Filia (chenin blanc MCC) with the old vines is you can taste it. There is a white pear and a citrus note that changes from lime to grapefruit if you age it in the cellar. But you’ll also get a minerality, and that is the old vineyard just sucking up all the compounds out of the soil. It’s pretty much just a bunch of grapes squeezed, with a bit of bubbles.”

「我是第一个使用老藤葡萄来酿制白诗南零剂量 MCC 的人。对我来说,葡萄是否来 自老藤其实并不重要,最主要的还是葡萄本身 :我在用什么酿酒?它的味道如何? 我看到了什么?果汁中包括酸度、甜度及其他一切指标,都深深吸引着我。然后我 开始着手研究种植它的葡萄园以及它的年龄。有趣的是,在我二十公顷的白诗南葡 萄中,我选择的那株葡萄藤正好是最古老的。 只要品尝一下,就知道我使用老藤葡萄来酿制白诗南 MCC 的原因。如果你把 酒陈放在酒窖里,当中的白梨与酸橙香气会慢慢从青柠转变为葡萄柚香。除此之外, 因为老藤能从土里吸收矿物质,它会含有更多矿物香气。感觉就是挤压一束葡萄后, 再加入一些气泡。 」

CHARL DU PLESSIS SPICE ROUTE

「老藤代表了性格、简朴以 及背后的矿物学。其中最重 要的便是性格,这是必须在 葡萄园屹立不摇几个世代才 能具有的特质。性格赋予葡 萄故事。去掉品质、去掉风 格,剩下最重要的便是背后 的故事。 老藤计划就是在提醒 顾客,一瓶酒不能没有故事。 能娓娓道出酒杯中的古今往 事,是满足客人的基本条件, DAVID HARTUNG (3 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

要是使用五十岁以上的老葡 萄藤,那必定更让人对其中 的传奇难以忘怀。 」

“Old vines bring personality, mineralogy, austereness. The most important thing, personality, comes from being on the farm for generations and sometimes more. And that always makes a nice story to tell. Besides the quality point of view and the style point of view, a very important part is the stories you can share.

I think the Old Vine Project is helping to educate consumers, and it’s about having stories to tell. If I can present my wine and tell my story, that’s the basis of satisfaction – and it’s even better if you’ve got vines that are more than fifty years old!”

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OLD VINES

DAVID SADIE D AV I D A N D N A D I A

“It’s not that every old vine produces a great wine from day one. Some were neglected or abused for mass production. So we’ve got an export label based on old vines that we use as a cash flow project that generates cash so we can farm the vineyard better. Then we can start adding it to our main focus range, which is a blend of seven oldvine vineyards. And eventually, hopefully, we can get it to a point where we can bottle it on its own in our premium focus, single vineyard range. “ 「并不是每株老藤都能从第一天开始就酿出美酒, 别为老藤设立出口标签,作为可以产生现金的现金 流量项目,回馈于改善葡萄园的耕种上。接着七个 老藤庄园的混合葡萄将成为我们的发展焦点。期望 终有一天,我们能让庄园自行为它们的单一葡萄园 系列美酒装瓶。 」

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

也有一些被无视或滥用于大规模生产。因此我们特


SAMANTHA SUDDONS S I LW E R V I S “A lot of the time in South Africa the people who grow the grapes aren’t the people who drink the wine. There was a big disconnect, with people growing grapes to send away for mass-production wine. And now it’s slowly starting to change. People are understanding their vineyards and their sense of place. I think the important thing is to appreciate the farmers and actually pay them a lot more for the grapes so they feel they’re doing something worthwhile. The Old Vine Project has helped with that. I think the greatest challenge is also just to get farmers to understand what’s special and how it should make them proud. We’ve seen that a lot with the farmers we work with. We bring them the wine and say, you know, this is from your farm. And for them, it ties everything together. The sense of place, the farming and taking care of the land, and then making the wine and tasting it.”

「很多时候南非种葡萄的人本身并不喝葡萄酒,因此种植与品尝 之间存在着一道鸿沟。葡萄农只是把葡萄种出来,送到工厂大量 制造。然而,这种情况已逐渐改善。人们开始试着了解自己的葡 萄园,于是逐渐对园区有了归属感。我想重点还是要重视专业, 用更高的价钱买他们的葡萄,让农人感觉到自己的工作充满价值。 老藤计划就是一大助力。最大的挑战,还是让农人了解他们的所 作所为有多特别、多么值得骄傲。与我们合作的农人就渐渐有这 种认知。我们把成品带给他,告诉他这是用他的葡萄做的,于是 一切都有了连结。对葡萄园的归属感、农人的耕作、对土地的照 顾、酿酒的过程及对酒品的欣赏,每个环节都能紧紧相扣。 」

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PIONEERS

南非美酒先锋

UNCORKING THE CAPE

Senior writer MAMIE CHEN and photographer DAVID HARTUNG encounter six adventurous producers whose innovative ways are unleashing the possibilities of South African wine.

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PIONEERS

CHENIN BLANC | 白诗南葡萄

KEN FORRESTER VINEYARDS Vineyards has continued to explore the grape by producing a range of expressions that showcase its multifaceted characteristics influenced by variations in terroir and winemaking methods. “Chenin blanc has myriad capabilities,” says Forrester. “It can produce a clean, happy, everyday drinking wine as well as a powerful, rich, complex one. It can produce a sparkling wine and a dessert wine. Chenin blanc beautifully fits all of those roles.” While The FMC, which is 100 percent wooded and matured on the lees for twelve months in the barrel, is big, bold, and complex with the richness of butterscotch and vanilla, Forrester Petit Chenin Blanc is harvested from younger vines, fermented cool, and bottled early to highlight its fresh fruit

“If you can’t own a category, then create a new one. THE GATE MARKING the entrance to Ken

Forrester Vineyards is purposely small and nondescript. But that hasn’t kept a steady stream of in-the-know enthusiasts from finding their way to the cellar door, securing their glasses of The FMC, and then posing for selfies in front of the iconic block of old bush vines from which Forrester produces his signature chenin blanc. Those, after all, are the vines that are largely credited with sparking, nearly twenty years ago, a newfound regard for South Africa’s predominant grape variety. Given the domestic and international accolades The FMC continues to garner, it’s hard to believe that when Forrester first bought the derelict property in 1993, he was told that chenin was a dead variety, a box-wine grape, and that he should pull out the vines and replace them with more fashionable sauvignon blanc and chardonnay. “It really would have been the height of arrogance,” he says, “for me to walk

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in, assume they were bad, and say, right, pull them out. Those vineyards were thirty years old.” In his first year, Forrester managed to produce more than two hundred cases of sauvignon blanc from his existing vines of the variety, but he knew that with his modest plantings he hadn’t much chance of owning the established South African sauvignon category. What he did have was lots of chenin blanc, and if no one else believed in the grape, he would. Forrester’s instincts were spot on, and after three years of experimentation with winemaker Martin Meinert, the pair developed a winning formula for producing what became the surprise hit among international critics at a 2000 London show. Their wine was eventually named The FMC for Forrester Meinert Chenin. Their flagship product may represent what they believe to be the pinnacle of chenin blanc’s potential, but Ken Forrester

如果你无法独享一个门 派,何不另辟新径?” KEN FORRESTER

flavors. The Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc reflects both the freshness of its tank-fermented component and the more complex, rounded element of its barrel-fermented one. Forrester has also revealed a distinct expression of the grape by growing it in the hotter, drier climate of Swartland. “It’s no longer in its comfort zone, and it changes,” he says. The fresh, fruit flavors typical of his Petit Chenin Blanc give way instead to notes of minerality. With other parcels yet to be explored and new attitudes to be coaxed out, the winemaker known the world over as Mr. Chenin Blanc is looking ahead: “We’ve got chenin blanc in all these forms, but there are still more opportunities out there.”


Ken Forrester 庄园的大门刻意保持简约低调。 然而,这仍阻挡不了资深酒客不断地涌入庄 园,找寻地窖入口,只为一尝 FMC 葡萄酒, 更不忘到 Ken 酿制的招牌白诗南酒原料,就 是那棵传说中的老藤前拍照留念。毕竟将近 二十年前,南非的新优质葡萄品种能够打响 名号,这些老臣可谓功不可没。 在国内外屡获佳绩的 FMC,依然没有停 下获奖的脚步。1993 年,Ken 买下这座废弃 庄园。很难想像,当时有人曾说白诗南是用 来做便宜盒装酒的过时品种,最好全都拔除, 改种一些时下受欢迎的白苏维翁或是霞多丽 之类的云云。他说 : 「要是我那时听从建议, 二话不说直接清掉,那就真的太狂妄自大了。 这些可是三十岁的老藤啊。 」 第一年,Ken 以现有的白苏维翁葡萄酿 出两百多箱酒,但他很清楚光靠这些少数的 植株,难以在成熟的南非白苏维翁市场闯出 名号。他看着手头上数量众多的白诗南,将 希望寄托在这些没人看好的白色宝石上。 历 时 三 年 的 不 断 试 验,Ken 与 酿 酒 师 Martin Meinert 终于研制出一条胜利配方,用 此酿出的成品还在 2000 年的伦敦酒品展大获 国际评审好评。最后两人将这款酒称作 FMC, 。这款旗舰 代表「Forrester Meinert 白诗南」 产品也许已是评审眼中的白诗南顶尖之作,

Ken Forrester 庄 园 却 仍 持 续 探 索 它 的 潜 能, 改变其风土条件与制程,用各种不同的成品 「白诗南 让白诗南展现其万种风情。Ken 说 : 能文能武。能酿出纯净、轻盈、适合每天喝 的酒,也能酿成强劲、浓厚又多层次的成品, 同时制作成气泡酒、甜点酒。 」 FMC 在橡木桶中陈酿,并在酒糟的催化

下成熟,为期十二个月,特性为丰厚、狂野、 多层次,具有奶油糖与香草的醇香。Forrester

Petit Chenin Blanc 则使用较年轻的植株,发 酵过程保持凉爽,期程也短,以保持新鲜果香。

The Old Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 则兼顾新 鲜的槽酿特质以及多层次、圆润的桶酿特性。

Ken 将部分植株移到斯瓦特兰较热、较 干燥的气候区种植,让葡萄又多了一种独特 的诠释。他说 : 「如同人一般,一旦脱离舒适 圈,就会改变。 」Petit Chenin Blanc 的新鲜果 香,遇上这个气候反而变得富含矿物香气。 其他白诗南品种也正等着世人去发掘、 诱发出他们的新姿态。这位广为世人所知的 白诗南先生对未来抱着无限的展望 : 「我们已 经发现白诗南各种不同的样貌,但这绝不是 全部,还充满着许多可能性待我们一探究竟。 」


P I N OTA G E | 皮 诺 塔 吉

KANONKOP ESTATE “WE DIDN’T JUST PICK PINOTAGE at random,” says Johann Krige, fourth-generation owner, along with his brother Paul, of Kanonkop Estate. “We experimented and put a lot of effort into it.” Their Black Label block of old bush vines, planted in 1953, lists among the first commercially planted pinotage in South Africa. And two decades later, Kanonkop was the first to mature its pinotage in new small oak barrels. At that time, pinotage was just one of five or six different wines they were producing. But in 1981, they began to concentrate on pinotage and cabernet sauvignon, the

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two varietals that were best suited to their estate’s soils, slopes, and microclimates. “It was a bold move at the time,” Krige says, “but I believe that if you want to play in the first league, you have to focus. When customers think of Kanonkop, they know the wine is either pinotage or cabernet sauvignon.” That strategic decision has paid off splendidly. Cabernet sauvignon features in Kanonkop’s award-winning Paul Sauer, the winery’s bordeaux-style red blend named for the Krige brothers’ grandfather. The 2015 vintage triumphantly scored the elusive

100-point rating from wine critic Tim Atkin. And for many wine enthusiasts, pinotage has been synonymous with Kanonkop since its then-winemaker Beyers Truter won the 1991 Robert Mondavi Trophy for International Winemaker of the Year for its Estate Wine Pinotage 1989. Since then, Kanonkop’s current cellar master, Abrie Beeslaar, has been named the IWSC International Winemaker of the Year three times. Pinotage is a distinctly South African variety, created in the 1920s by Abraham Izak Perold, the first professor of viticulture at Stellenbosch University. Although Perold


PIONEERS

“If you want to play in the first league, you have to focus.

力争上游,必须学有专精。” JOHANN KRIGE

never documented his reasoning behind cross-pollinating pinot noir, a prince among French grapes, with the humbler cinsault, Krige believes it was a practical economic decision driven by the promise of the heavybearing cinsault improving the yield of the crossbreed, which was dubbed pinotage. “Most of our pinotage are bush vines,” says Krige, who experimented by growing five rows of trellised vines beside five rows of bush vines and comparing the results. “On trellises, the cinsault parent shows through more and the production is too high. The berries were at least 20 to 25 percent bigger than those from the bush vines, a factor that affects the tannin and flavor extraction.” Interestingly, Krige finds that more pronounced pinot noir characteristics emerge after ten to fifteen years in the bottle. Young pinotage wines offer a bold intensity of red fruits and berries, but as they mature, the bouquet becomes multilayered with blackfruit notes and earthy elements. “Imagine walking through a forest where everything is wet and dripping and sticking your hand in the soil. That’s the earthiness you can detect,” he explains, “and it’s a direct reflection of its pinot noir parent.” Unfortunately, he says, few people have the opportunity to drink an older pinotage, and when they do, they have little frame of reference for comparison. In an effort to educate consumers on the aging potential of a well-made pinotage, Kanonkop puts a chart on the back of the bottle to indicate the optimal drinking time. Krige has also begun holding back eight thousand bottles of each vintage of Estate Pinotage for aging and rerelease after ten years of maturation. “We started the program in 2010 by rereleasing the 2000 vintage,” says Krige, “and I think people are starting to understand. That adds value, not only to the current vintage we’re selling, but also to our Black Label wine, which has an even greater aging potential, and to the pinotage category as a whole.”

Kanonkop 庄 园 第 四 代 传 人 「我们可不是丢 Johann Krige 称 : 硬币决定要种皮诺塔吉的,这是 通过无数的试验和汗水才实现的 成 果。 」Johann 旁 边 的 是 他 的 兄 弟 Paul。庄园旗下的黑标老葡萄 藤种植区,于 1953 年开始播种, 是南非最早的一批商用皮诺塔 吉。 二 十 年 后,Kanonkop 首 先 将新型小橡木桶陈年法应用于此 种葡萄。 当时,皮诺塔吉只是园内生 产的六七种葡萄酒其中之一。直 到 1981 年, 两 人 决 定 采 取 精 简 策略,将栽种品种减少至两种, 只 剩 下 最 适 合 庄 园 的 土 壤、 坡 度及微型气候的皮诺塔吉和赤霞 「这可是个大胆 珠。Johann 说 : 的决定,但是要力争上游,就必 须 学 有 专 精。 要 让 顾 客 一 想 到

Kanonkop,就直接联想到我们的 主力商品皮诺塔吉或赤霞珠。 」 事 实 证 明, 这 策 略 大 获 成 功。Kanonkop 有 一 款 名 为 Paul Sauer 的 波

实尺寸比自然栽种区要大上至少百分之二十

尔多式混和红酒,这款屡获殊荣的酒以 Krige

到二十五,这将大大影响单宁与葡萄风味的

兄弟的祖父命名,由赤霞珠担纲大任。2015

萃取。 」

年 的 产 品, 更 从 Tim Atkin 评 测 中, 拿 下 不

有趣的是,Johann 还发现存放超过十至

可 置 信 的 100 分 高 分。 另 一 方 面,1991 年,

十五年的皮诺塔吉葡萄酒,会开始显现黑比

Kanonkop 的 酿 酒 师 Beyers Truter 凭 借 酒 庄

诺的特性。轻陈年的皮诺塔吉酒,能尝到红

葡萄酒 Pinotage 1989,赢得 Robert Mondavi

浆果的刚劲浓郁香气,但随着存放时间越久,

Trophy 的年度国际酿酒师大奖。其后,对许

层次也变得越丰富,黑浆果与大地气息渐渐

多酒迷来说,Kanonkop 已成为皮诺塔吉的代

涌现出来。他解释 : 「想像你走在一片潮湿的

名词。时至今日,Kanonkop 的现任酒窖总管

森林,到处湿答答的,这时伸手抓一把泥土。

Abrie Beeslaar 已三次拿下 IWSC 的年度国际

那就是我所说的大地气息,也正是黑比诺最

酿酒师头衔。

鲜明的特色。 」

皮诺塔吉是实打实的南非品种,二十世

可惜,很少人有机会一尝陈年的皮诺塔

纪二十年代由 Abraham Izak Perold 培育而成,

吉,就算真的尝到,也没有其他参考指标可

他是史德兰波希大学的首位葡萄栽培学教授。

供比较。为了让大众了解优质皮诺塔吉的陈

尽管已无法考究为何 Abraham 将有法国葡萄

年 潜 力,Kanonkop 特 别 在 酒 瓶 后 方 标 示 一

王子之称的黑比诺,和较为低廉葡萄品种的

张时间表,让顾客掌握这瓶酒的最佳赏味期。

神索进行异花授粉。Johann 猜测应是出于单

Johann 也着手保留八千瓶的各种皮诺塔吉红

纯的经济考量,即利用神索的多产特性,提

酒,预计经过十年熟成,再释出供酒客品尝。

高混种葡萄的产量,也就催生了皮诺塔吉。

「2010 年首次执行这个计划, Johann 说 :

「我们的皮诺塔吉大多使 Johann 提到 :

那时释出 2000 年的产品。我认为大众开始认

用自然栽种法。 」他曾将五排棚架栽种与五排

同这种做法。如此一来,不仅有助于提升现

自然栽种皮诺塔吉并排种在一起,从而进行

正贩售的酒品价值,对拥有更大陈年潜力的

「结果显示,棚架上的 比较。Johann 补充称 :

黑标葡萄酒也大有裨益,进而整个皮诺塔吉

葡萄,展现过多的神索特性,产量过高。果

系列都将受益无穷。 」 wines across the cape

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TK |

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PIONEERS

M É T H O D E C A P C L A SS I Q U E ( M CC ) | 南 非 气 泡 葡 萄 酒

VILLIERA WINES “WHEN I FIRST HEARD that my nephew

Xander wanted to launch a chocolate-andMCC pairing, I said chocolate and bubbly don’t go,” says Cathy Grier Brewer, sales and marketing director of Villiera Wines. “Nothing goes with chocolate apart from maybe sweet wine.” Alexander Grier, the first among the fourth generation of Griers to be part of Villiera, serves as winemaker at the familyowned estate. He had recently sampled ruby chocolate, discovering that the new variety, made from red cocoa beans that impart a pink color and sweet-tart flavor, was evoca-

tive of Villiera’s Tradition Rosé Brut. Soon the idea of a tasting experience that would pair chocolate with a selection of Villiera’s entire range of bottle-fermented sparkling wines began to take hold. T he sure -to -raise - eyebrows concept was soon green-lighted. After all, in the thirty-five years since the Griers had bought Villiera, they’d forged their success by embracing unusual new opportunities and progressive passion projects. Among these are the estate’s trailblazing efforts in sustainability, social activism, and wildlife conservation. One embraced opportunity has been Villiera’s foray into production of méthode cap classique (MCC) wines. The term is the designation for South African sparkling wines

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that have undergone secondary fermentation in the bottle and a minimum of nine months’ maturation on the lees. Brewer’s father had been introduced to Jean Louis Denois, a French Champagne maker looking to launch a project with a South African producer: Denois would share his expertise in making bottle-fermented sparkling wine in exchange for a royalty agreement. At the time, Brewer’s brother Jeff was overseeing wine production and her cousin Simon was running the vineyards, but the brand was virtually unknown. “My father,” she recalls, “spoke up, ‘I’ve got a bunch of young kids just starting out that are prepared to do anything.’” The family agreed to the arrangement the same day Denois visited their cellar. While the vast majority of South African sparkling wine producers were injecting carbon dioxide into still wine in pressurized tanks, the Griers were mastering the traditional method of making sparkling wine entirely inside the bottle. And although not the first South African winery to make MCC , Villiera was first to produce it on a commercial scale and today is among the top rank in volume and prestige. “Unlike with some kinds of craft winemaking,” says Brewer, “many of the best bubblies come from bigger producers like us – we have access to more vineyards, base wines, and cuvées.” Villiera’s scale has allowed them to take the industry lead in releasing the first of many variations of South African MCC, including additive-free Brut Natural, low-alcohol Starlight Brut, and their vintage prestige cuvée, Monro Brut. Alexander Grier ’s chocolate -andMCC pairing concept has blossomed into another Villiera success. The ruby chocolate that first inspired him is presented in the form of a rose-water ganache that brings out the suave berry notes of the winery’s fruit-driven Tradition Rosé Brut. “It’s quite a special pairing,” says Brewer.

Villiera Wines 的 业 务 行 销 总 监 Cathy Grier 「第一次听到外甥 Xander 有意将 Brewer 说 : 巧克力与 MCC 配在一起时,我告诉他,除了 甜酒以外大概没什么能与巧克力搭配。 」

Alexander Grier 是 Grier 家 族 第 四 代 长 子,在 Cathy 与两位表兄弟一同经营的家族 庄园 Villiera 内担任酿酒师。最近,他利用新 发现的红可可豆,首次做出红宝石巧克力样 本。这种巧克力带有天然的粉红色泽、口味 酸甜,令人联想到 Villiera 的 Tradition 粉红干 香槟。于是,让庄园的部分瓶酿气泡葡萄酒 都配上一款巧克力的想法,逐渐发芽茁壮。 虽然这个计划难免引人顾虑,但毕竟自

Grier 家族三十五年前买下 Villiera 以来,一直 致力创新,加上对热情所在的坚定追求,才 能在产业上占有一席之地。当然,庄园对环 境永续、社会行动及动物保育的引领与付出, 也 是 成 功 的 关 键。 当 初 骤 然 踏 入 méthode cap classique(MCC) 的制作,就是对机会展臂 欢迎的一例。这个词是南非气泡葡萄酒的学 名,泛指在酒瓶中经历二次发酵,并在酒糟 中熟成九个月以上的气泡葡萄酒。当年 Cathy 的父亲与法国香槟制造商 Jean Louis Denois 结缘,那时对方正在寻找南非制造商共同合 伙 :由 Jean 提供制造瓶酿气泡酒的一切技术, 而合伙人则必须签订权利金协议。

Cathy 的哥哥 Jeff 当时负责监督葡萄酒 的生产,而表哥 Simon 则管理庄园事务,那 时他们还称不上有自己的品牌。她回想 : 「我 父亲说他身边有的是一群刚起步、愿意吃苦 耐劳的年轻人。 」抱着姑且一试的心态,父亲 就在 Jean 参观酒窖的那天,签下了协议。 当南非的各个酒商还在利用加压制造法, 将二氧化碳打入静态酒时,Grier 家族已经开 始反璞归真,努力掌握让静态酒自然在瓶中 转换成气泡酒的古法。虽然 Villiera 不是南非 首家制造 MCC 的厂商,却是第一个以商业规 模制造的商家,造就如今在产量及声望上名 列前茅的佳绩。Villiera 庞大的根基,让他们 在南非业界首创许多新奇的 MCC,包​​括无添 加天然干香槟、低酒精星光干香槟还有著名 的陈年特别版,Monro 干香槟。

Alexander 将 MCC 搭 配 巧 克 力 的 概 念, 让 Villiera 迈 向 另 一 个 辉 煌 时 代。Cathy 说 : 「把香槟跟巧克力搭配,真的很合拍。 」让外 甥灵感泉涌的红宝石巧克力,后来以玫瑰水 甘 纳 许 的 形 式 重 现, 搭 配 以 水 果 为 基 底 的

Tradition 玫瑰干香槟,突显其温和的浆果香 「的确是独特的创意搭配。 」 气。Cathy 赞叹 :


“It takes passion and the desire to tell a different story.

要做出与众不同的事, 需要热情与渴望。” CATHY GRIER BREWER

From top to bottom: Villiera Tradition Rosé Brut paired with ruby rose chocolate, Villiera Monro Brut with miso caramel and peanuts in milk chocolate, Villiera Tradition Brut with miso orange ganache in milk chocolate, Domaine Grier Brut with cashew coconut and strawberry in milk chocolate 从上到下: Villiera Tradition粉红干香槟 搭配红宝石玫瑰巧克力 Villiera Monro干香槟搭配味 噌焦糖花生牛奶巧克力 Villiera Tradition干香槟搭配味 噌香橙甘纳许牛奶巧克力 Domaine Grier干香槟搭配腰 果椰子草莓牛奶巧克力

WINES ACROSS THE CAPE | TK |

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PIONEERS

B L A C K ECO N O M I C E M P OW E R M E N T ( B E E ) | 南 非 救 助 黑 人 政 策

ASLINA WINES SOME ARE BORN into established winemaking families and follow well-worn hereditary paths into the industry. Others can recall the exact bottle that stopped them dead in their tracks and inspired them to get involved. But Ntsiki Biyela had not even heard of viticulture or oenology before winning a scholarship in 1999 to study those subjects at Stellenbosch University. It might even be said that winemaking chose her rather than the other way around. She faced the challenges of culture shock and a sense of not belonging when she moved from her all-black, Zulu-speaking village to a predominantly white, Afrikaansspeaking university. And later, she was denied viticulturist positions on the basis of her gender. But strength of character led her to persevere in seizing every opportunity that came her way. “You can’t be limited by a job description,” she says. “If there’s something that needs to be done, do it. If you don’t know how, ask for help. Learn as much as you can.” Although Biyela joined Stellekaya Winery as a junior winemaker, she was hands-on everywhere, from vineyard to cellar to tasting room. That broad experience served her well when she took over as Stellekaya’s head winemaker, making her South Africa’s first black female in such a position. She soon won a gold medal for her inaugural red blend and was named Woman Winemaker of the Year. After her spectacular rise to the top of South Africa’s wine sector, and while still at Stellekaya, she began in 2015 to work on her own label, Aslina Wines. But she was feeling unsettled and unfocused: “I had one foot here and the other foot there, my job on one side and my project on the other,” she says. “I was trying to make it all work, but I couldn’t.” Then, while attending a seminar at the US Department of State’s African Women’s Entrepreneurship Program (AWEP), Biyela was asked about the bigger purpose behind her desire to start a business. She realized that she’d somehow lost sight of it. “A light bulb went on,” she says. “From the day I started at university, I knew I wanted to start my own company so that I could help the youth in my

village and expose them to opportunities like I’d had. These people needed my assistance, and I was wasting time.” Her fellow AWEP participants helped her see that her job at Stellekaya and the peace of mind her salary brought were actually holding her back from pursuing her dreams. With a sense of urgency, she needed to propel everything she had within herself toward accomplishing something real with Aslina Wines. Then, with success, she’d be able to give her community the kind of help that she’d received. “So I jumped,” she

says. “I had forty thousand rand in the bank and seven thousand bottles of wine to sell. And that’s it – I did it.” The reputation Biyela built at Stellekaya and the relationships she fostered there helped provide ready access to the grapes she needs to blend and produce her wines and to the distribution network required to sell them domestically and abroad. With volume increasing at a purposefully measured pace, the next step is to set up her own production facility. “It’s time,” she says, “to give Aslina her own home.”

“There must be a bigger purpose, something burning inside, that drives you to start your business.

下定决心开创事业的人,心中一定要有远 大的目标,如烈火般熊熊燃烧着。” NTSIKI BIYELA

有人生于酿酒世家,凭借天生优势进入业界。

法专心致志。Ntsiki 说 : 「我那时算是在事业

有人则原本走着其他人生道路,其后由某瓶

上脚踏两条船,一边是工作,另一边是品牌。

酒 酿 启 发, 决 定 转 换 跑 道。Ntsiki Biyela 于

我想两面的工作都处理好,却分身乏术。 」

1999 年获得奖学金,在斯坦陵布什大学攻读

参加美国国务院的非洲妇女创业计划

葡萄栽培及酿酒学,那时她才初次接触这个

(AWEP) 研讨会时,Ntsiki 被问及创业背后有

领域。如此特别的经历,让人不禁觉得,也 许是酿酒业选择了她,而不是她选择酿酒业。 离开祖鲁语系的黑人乡村,来到几乎全

何远大目标,她一时居然答不上来。她说 : 「我想起从进入大学那天,就想着要开自己的 公司,为的就是将来有能力帮助家乡的青年,

是白人、说着南非语的校园,她经历了强大

让他们拥有像我那时一样的机会。这些人需

的文化冲击及归属感丧失,更因为性别无法

要帮助,我却还在浪费时间。 」

谋得葡萄栽培师的职位。但她锲而不舍地抓

一 些 AWEP 参 与 者 帮 助 她 了 解 到, 自

紧每个机会。她说 : 「人不能被履历所限制,

己在 Stellekaya 的工作薪资,看似给了她安

什么事该做就去做。不知道怎么做,就外出

定的生活,却反而成为追梦之路的阻碍。她

讨教。要像海绵一样不停吸收、学习。 」

知道自己需要重新振作,并需全心全力规划

尽管 Ntsiki 加入 Stellekaya Winery 时只

Aslina Wines 的未来。等到成功那天,才有

是一位实习酿酒师,她仍打破职位所限,从

可能回馈乡里,让年轻人拥有她当初的机会。

葡萄园、地窖再到品酒室,每个角落都有她

她说 : 「于是我抛下工作,靠着银行里的四万

的 身 影。 丰 富 的 经 验, 让 她 成 为 Stellekaya

兰特,还有手上的七千瓶酒。就这样,我就

首席酿酒师时,显得驾轻就熟,也就这么成

这么做到了。 」

为南非首名担任此高位的非裔女性。很快地,

Ntsiki 在 Stellekaya 的 时 光, 让 她 有 了

Ntsiki 的首款混和红酒便获得了金牌奖肯定,

名气,也建立了广阔的人脉,这些都让她在

她本人亦获选为当年的年度女酿酒师。

需要葡萄来混和、制酒时,有人及时提供原料;

成 为 酒 坛 新 星 之 后, 她 仍 待 在

Stellekaya,并在 2015 年着手规划自创品牌 Aslina Wines。 由 于 蜡 烛 两 头 烧, 她 一 直 无

也在需要国内外销售渠道时,有人指明前路。 随着产量稳定上升,下一步就是拥有自家的 」 酿酒厂。她说 : 「是时候给 Aslina 一个家了。 wines across the cape

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PIONEERS

E LG I N W I N E R EG I O N | 埃 尔 金 葡 萄 酒 产 区

PAUL CLUVER WINES “EVERYBODY SAID we were crazy,” says Dr. Paul Cluver of his decision in the mid1980s to experiment with a planting of forty hectares of grape vines on his family-owned De Rust Estate in Elgin, about seventy kilometers southeast of Cape Town. Nederburg Wines, one of South Africa’s best-known Paarl district producers, had identified Elgin as a promising site for cool-climate wines and had asked Cluver, as owner of one of the largest farms in the area, if he would consider growing grapes for them. Elgin had long been known as a prime apple-producing region, accounting for 60 percent of South Africa’s exports of the fruit. Cluver’s friends and neighbors pointed out that his existing orchards were profitable and that wine grapes would surely prove to be a waste of time, money, and effort. He was persuaded, nevertheless, by the reasoning behind studies on the potential of the region’s terroir. A plateau at an elevation of three hundred meters, Elgin is close to but not on the sea. In summer, prevailing southeasterly winds from the Atlantic blow into the surrounding mountains, giving Elgin a great deal of cloud cover. The cooler temperatures and large differential between day and night readings ripens the grapes more slowly, giving the berries time to develop concentrated flavor and aroma while retaining higher levels of acidity. “I was objectively convinced,” says Cluver, “that Elgin was unlike other winegrowing areas and would be able to produce a special wine.” Cluver spent time mapping the terroir by analyzing the property’s soils and aspects to identify the best locations for vineyards. He planted riesling, chardonnay, and pinot noir the first year and added sauvignon blanc the next. Although Oak Valley, a nearby farm, preceded Cluver in planting an experimental vineyard, he was first to plant commercial vineyards in Elgin and first to release a wine, the 1990 Paul Cluver Riesling. Over the years since then, Paul Cluver Wines has embarked on a voyage of discovery and learning. Cellar master Andries Burger, who is currently producing his twenty-third vintage for the estate, has

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“We were convinced that we were in the right place, and that in Elgin we could do something special.

有人说埃尔金是天选之地,是个能做大 事的地方,我们就这么被说服了。” DR. PAUL CLUVER

evolved a style that stresses terroir over the winemaking process. “We’ve learned,” says Liesl Cluver Rust, Dr. Cluver’s daughter, “that rather than trying to craft too much in the cellar, it’s better to just take what Mother Nature has given us and capture it in a bottle.” As marketing director, Rust has joined with her siblings in running the daily operations of the family business. The Cluvers still bottle a sauvignon blanc, the most widely planted varietal in Elgin, but they concede that its very popularity makes it challenging to find ways to differentiate their label. Instead, they focus most of their attention on pinot noir, chardonnay, and riesling.

“At the opposite end of the scale from sauvignon blanc is our exceptional Noble Late Harvest,” says Cluver of a wine that can be produced only in years when conditions allow botrytis to flourish on their riesling grapes. It requires the prodigious effort of returning to the vineyard block up to five times to harvest bunches that show botrytis and then painstakingly picking out the individually affected berries at the sorting table. “You’re not going through the effort of making Noble Late Harvest for the money,” he says. “But the wine business is about a way of enjoying life. You don’t stay up late at night philosophizing over apples.”


「我就被这客观的分析说服了。 Paul 说 :

「大家都说我疯了。 」Paul Cluver 博士如此说。

的朋友与左邻右舍都劝他先顾好现有的、利

De Rust 庄园位于开普敦东南方七十公里的埃

益较为可观的果园,并称种植酿酒葡萄根本

根据分析,埃尔金与众不同,定能产出独具

尔金。1980 年代中期,Paul 决定在这个自家

就是浪费时间、金钱,徒劳无功。

一格的葡萄。 」Paul 对庄园的土壤和各面向进

的庄园,实验性地种下 40 公顷的葡萄藤,当

他却仍选择相信科学研究所指出该区风

时没人理解他的决定。事实上这是因为位于帕

土条件的开发潜力。埃尔金为海拔高度三百

制地图。第一年种了雷司令、霞多丽、黑比诺,

尔葡萄酒产区、南非最著名的尼德堡酒庄庄主

公尺的内陆高原,同时此区邻海而非位于海

一年后又种了白苏维翁。

独具慧眼,看出埃尔金是个潜力无穷、适合凉

岸上。夏季时节,东南风从大西洋吹进围绕

虽然附近的 Oak Valley 农场早已开始实验

性葡萄生长之处,于是询问此区数一数二的大

四周的山脉,为埃尔金带来浓厚的云层。如

性地种植葡萄,但 Paul 的商业葡萄园在埃尔金

农场主 Paul,是否考虑为他们栽种葡萄。

此一来,凉爽的气候与显著的日夜温差,可

还是一项创举,而且也比 Oak Valley 更早酿出

使葡萄成熟速率趋缓,让果实有更多时间在

第一支葡萄酒,名为 1990 Paul Cluver Riesling。

埃尔金一直都是苹果主要产区,南非百 分之六十的外销苹果皆源于此地。那时 Paul

果树上浓缩其风味与香气,并保留高酸性。

行调查,标示出最适合种植葡萄的地区并绘

之后几年,Paul Cluver 酒庄持续探索与 学习。酒窖总管 Andries Burger 正在为庄园 进行第二十三次酿酒工序,他的独门秘诀便 是让葡萄的风土特质在酿酒过程得以充分展 「我们 现。Paul 的女儿 Liesl Cluver Rust 说 : 发现与其在酿酒的时候加油添醋,不如将葡 萄最自然单纯的一面,原原本本地封藏在酒 瓶里。 」身为行销总监,Liesl 与其他兄弟姊妹 上下一心,维护家族企业的日常运作。 尽管埃尔金最广为种植的白苏维翁也是 庄园的商品之一,过高的人气却也让这种酒 难以与其他酒庄产品有所区隔。因此, 黑比诺、 霞多丽及雷司令酒是庄园现今的主力产品。 「 白 苏 维 翁 酒 和 优 质 的 Noble Paul 说 : Late Harvest 酒,可说是天秤的两端。」这种 酒数年一产,只有当葡萄孢菌在对的时候遇 上雷司令,在其上发芽茁壮,才有机会收成。 这需专人赴葡萄园来回五次以上,将孢菌寄 生的葡萄一一捆绑收割,再小心翼翼地分类 并拣选长有孢菌的果实,过程可谓劳心劳力。 「这些不眠不休的准备,说明 Paul 认为 : 酿 造 Noble Late Harvest 已 非 为 了 图 利。 享 受生活,才是酿酒过程最大的收获。也唯有 葡萄,能让人废寝忘食地高谈阔论一番。 」


T EC H N I C A L W I N E M A K I N G | 科 技 酿 酒 术

RICHARD KERSHAW WINES EVERY SIX WEEKS, rain or shine, winemakers Richard Kershaw and Dudley Wilson repeat the laborious routine of moving every barrel from their cellar out into the open air for tasting. This week, scores of syrah casks are neatly arrayed just outside the doors. After the torrential downpours endured in their previous cycle, the moderate temperatures and clear skies are, they declare, perfect. Dipping a tubular wine thief into a barrel and extracting a bit of the developing liquid, he releases the sample into a single wine glass, gives it a swirl, and then pours half the liquid into a second glass for Kershaw. “Sometimes,” he explains, “there’s a difference between the top and bottom layers. There were times in the past when we found ourselves talking about two completely different wines drawn from the same barrel.” But today they are in complete agreement . “ The best we’ve had in the last two days,” Wilson says. Kershaw concurs: “Definitely an A++. Wonderful intensity of fruit, creamy lavender smell, fantastic integration, and persistence on the palate that just goes on and on and on.” Regular tasting of every barrel is a time-consuming process that many skip in favor of batch testing. But for Kershaw, it’s a critical part of winemaking that allows him to discern individual components through the maturation process. “Any problems will float to the surface sooner,” says Kershaw, “and then we can unpack where it’s going wrong. Maybe it needs extra sulfur or racking. The point of tasting is to ensure that wines reach their end point in fantastic condition.” Individual barrel tasting also allows Kershaw to trace the barrels themselves through their journey from new to old. If a barrel consistently underperforms for his style of wine, he’ll sell it. “That makes the difference that gets you to a 95 or 97 rating,” says Kershaw. “You don’t use barrels that would detract from the final wine.” He keeps a meticulous spreadsheet that tracks which picking of which clone on which soil and from which site has been placed in which fill of which barrel made by which cooperage. The complexity might be headspinning, but it provides valuable insight about how the wines react in various barrels. A batch made from grapes that were harvested earlier, for example, might be more

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herbal and savory than a batch of laterpicked grapes and might therefore require a different type of barrel. Ke r s h aw h a s d eve l o p e d a C l o n a l Selection range of chardonnay, syrah, and pinot noir wines. Each combines multiple clones, soils, and sites across the Elgin region to showcase the characteristics of its coolclimate wine style. “We take all the different clones,” he says, “because they all lend something different. That adds complexity.” He chose to make Elgin syrahs and pinot noirs to prove a point about how the two varietals had veered off track and lost their way. “I wanted to make an elegant, delicate syrah like those we used to have in

the 1980s and 1990s. And I thought maybe we could change today’s perception of pinot noir and make it a bit more savory, a bit more restrained, a bit more intriguing.” Of chardonnay, Kershaw remarks, “My personal mandate is to prove that Elgin is a really great place for chardonnay. It’s a signature grape we can hang our hat on.” He currently has eleven blocks planted with four chardonnay clones, resulting in twenty-one different batches. But what percentage of a given batch should be placed in new oak as opposed to second or third fills? “We’ll never get it 100 percent right,” he admits, “and every year is different. But that’s why we taste, and that’s how we improve.”


PIONEERS

Richard Kershaw (left) and Dudley Wilson (right) sample a barrel of syrah. Richard(图左)和Dudley(图右) 从一桶西拉葡萄酒中取样试饮

“It’s about digging as deep as we possibly can with the tools that we have. 善用手边的工具,竭尽所能地追根究底。” RICHARD KERSHAW

衣草气息,无懈可击地合而为一,口中余韵 并未随时间减退,令人口齿留香。 」

Richard 还发展出克隆品种精选酒单,包 含霞多丽、希拉、黑皮诺等等。每瓶都是各

这样一桶一桶试喝,旷日废时,所以很

种克隆品种植株、土壤及埃尔金地区不同风

多人都选择跳过。然而对 Richard 来说,这却

土条件的荟萃,展现凉爽天候下独有的葡萄

是不可或缺的重要步骤,让他能时刻监控熟

特性。他说 : 「每种克隆品种植株都包含其中,

「如此才 成过程中的每个要素。Richard 说 :

因为各有特色,让整体层次更丰富。 」

每 六 个 星 期, 酿 酒 师 Richard Kershaw 和

能及时发现问题,尽早解决。也许需要再加

Richard 会选择栽种希拉和黑皮诺,主要

Dudley Wilson 总会风雨无阻地将一个个酒桶

点硫、也许需要换个桶子。试喝后,才能确

是认为埃尔金地区的这两款葡萄已失去应有

费劲地从地窖搬出来见见天日、尝尝味道。这

保最后成品在最佳状态。 」

次轮到的是希拉,两人将希拉酒桶整齐地排列

这样一桶桶试饮,亦能监控酒桶对酒从

的质感。 「我想让希拉回到 1980、1990 年代 原有的优雅细致风味,另外也想改变人们对

在地窖门外。经过上次的滂沱大雨,今天温和

年轻到熟成间的影响。若某个酒桶屡未达标,

黑皮诺的观感,赋予更多香气,酒体更收敛、

的天气与清澈的天空,让两人很是满意。

「欲挤身顶尖 他就会果断卖出。Richard 说 :

更饶富趣味。 」

管 状 的 取 样 筒 沉 入 桶 中, 正 在 熟 成 的 葡 萄 酒 被 取 了 出 来,Dudley 倒 了 些 许 在 杯

酒品之列,酒桶的影响不可轻忽,我可不能 容许酒桶拖累成品的品质。 」

「我想证明埃 至于霞多丽,Richard 说 : 尔金真的是霞多丽的最佳种植区,堪称本区

内,轻柔的晃动数下,再将其中一半酒倒入

他有一张精心设计的电子试算表,记录

的招牌葡萄,品质值得信赖。 」他目前已拥有

「有时候,上下层 Richard 的杯中。他解释 :

哪区葡萄园的哪株克隆品种种在哪个地方的

十一个种植区,内有四种霞多丽克隆品种植

的酒尝起来不尽相同。以前我们会为此讨论

土壤、后来第几次装进哪个酒桶的第几桶等

株,总计可收成二十一次。那么,一批葡萄

半天,后来才发现虽然是从同一个桶中取出,

等。看起来虽然让人眼花撩乱,却能清楚追

有多少量需要放入新桶,又有多少需要二次

两人喝进嘴里的却是天差地别。 」

踪酒桶与酒的互动过程。例如这一批葡萄收

或是三次装桶呢?他承认 : 「这种事情永远无

「这 今天他俩却所见略同。Dudley 说 :

成得较早,酿出的酒风味可能就比晚收成的

法百分百保证,每年都不同,这也正是为何

「绝 是两天以来最棒的成品。 」Richard 附和 :

葡萄香气更重、草本味更浓,因此酒桶的选

我们需要试饮,如此经验才能日积月累,慢

对称得上 A++。扑鼻的强烈果香、滑顺的薰

择也会不同。

慢进步。 」 wines across the cape

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WINE TOURISM

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闻香下马

BEYOND THE TASTING ROOM South Africa’s estates entice wine tourists with authentic experiences from fine dining to fine art.

Guarding the entrance to Delaire Graff Estate is artist Dylan Thomas’s majestic cheetah sculpture, part of Laurence Graff’s extensive art collection on display throughout the property. 艺术家Dylan Thomas雄伟的猎豹雕塑守卫着进入德克莱 尔格拉夫酒庄的车道,它也是酒庄庄主Laurence Graff 在庄园中展示的众多令人惊叹的艺术藏品之一


GONE ARE THE DAYS when wine tourism meant simply a stroll in the vineyard, a quick turn through the cellar, and a pause to taste a few samples before buying a couple of bottles to take home. Even the Stellenbosch Wine Route, when it was created in 1971 as the first of its kind in South Africa, served more as a sales tool for participating members than an effective inducement to visitors. But today, the wine tourism concept has broadened beyond mere tasting and selling to encompass a range of appealing experiences related to, or simply taking place on, wine farms. The Stellenbosch Wine Route’s three founding members are among those who have embraced the expansion by adding activities and events that draw visitors into the cultural heart and soul of the wine region. Delheim first opened a restaurant in 1976 to cater to guests exploring the route. Today, they’ve added a whimsical wine and fynbos cupcake pairing that features distinctive flavors drawn from the indigenous vegetation of the unique Cape floral kingdom. Simonsig offers a cellar tour during which guests can try their hand at disgorging their own bottle of MCC or learn the flamboyant art of sabrage, the technique of opening a sparkling wine bottle with a saber. The vast Spier Wine Farm takes a something-for-everyone approach that includes vineyard Segway tours, selfguided heritage and farm tours, and farmto-table tasting experiences showcasing ingredients either grown on the estate or sourced from nearby farms. Spier also emphasizes the visual arts as a powerful tool for bringing about positive engagement with the community. An on-site artisan studio lets guests observe glassbead art and the laying of mosaic tiles. Displayed throughout the estate are square wooden panels of painted artwork that are

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WINE TOURISM


Guests at Boschendal are advised to be cautious of both free-range chickens and children. Boschendal 酒庄建议客人小心留意农场内「自由放养」的儿童和动物

The Grier family created a wildlife sanctuary next to the Villiera vineyards by returning two hundred twenty hectares of land to its natural state. Replanting it with one hundred thousand indigenous trees, they introduced a diverse population of game, small mammals, and birds. Grier家族在Villiera葡萄园旁的220公顷土地重新种植十万棵原生树, 以还原其自然状态。同时引进各种各样的野生动物、 小型哺乳动物和鸟类,以打造占地220公顷的野生动物保护区 ← One of Ken Forrester’s seven dogs freely roams the estate, guarding and occasionally eating the grapes. Ken Forrester飼養的七只狗均能在庄园自由漫游,负责守卫并偶尔吃点葡萄

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WINE TOURISM

brought together from multiple artists, both established and emerging, to form new “creative block” assemblages. The project inspired Spier’s winemakers to release an award-winning Creative Block range of blended wines. “As with the art form,” says Senior Winemaker Johan Jordaan, “our Creative Block wines are carefully selected and blended so that the final whole is greater than the sum of its parts.” Wineries in established regions like Stellenbosch

and Franschhoek, as well as those in newer districts and wards like Elgin, are seeking out broader experiences in an effort to differentiate themselves. “We were looking for an extra something to add to our business,” says Cathy Grier Brewer of Villiera Wines, “and a cousin of ours was looking for a place to keep game. So it all just came together.” The winery was soon running game drives in a wildlife sanctuary of two hundred twenty hectares. “No one can really believe it when they come here and see all the giraffes, wines across the cape

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Boschendal’s herb and vegetable gardens keep the Werf Restaurant supplied for its hyper-local farm-to-table dining. Boschendal酒庄的农庄为 「Werf」餐厅提供「农 场直送」的丰富食材


DAVID HARTUNG (4)

WINE TOURISM

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A cellar worker mixes incoming grapes with the juice in one of Kanonkop’s traditional opentop concrete vats. A “punch-down” team lines the walls and planks every two hours during the three-and-a-half-day fermentation, breaking the crusty cap with wooden tools and pushing down the floating grapes to increase skin contact with the juice. 一名員工混合倒在Kanonkop酒庄其中一个传统开顶混凝酒桶中的葡萄和葡萄汁。 在为期三天半的发酵过程中,一队「敲击」队伍每隔两小时便将墙壁和木板排成一 行,用木制工具挤破葡萄,然后把浮动的葡萄向下压,以增加果皮与果汁的接触

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Chef Virgil Kahn brings a South African farm-to-table touch to Asian cuisine at Delaire Graff Estate’s Indochine Restaurant. His garden vegetable dish features estate-grown eggplant and tomatoes with a panna cotta made from locally grown edamame and a cream of water chestnut, wild garlic, and miso. 德克莱尔格拉夫酒庄的「Indochine」餐厅主厨Virgil Kahn精心烹制一道「农场直送」的亚洲料理。 他以自家庄园种植的茄子和番茄,配搭用当地生产的毛豆,以及荸荠、野生大蒜和味噌奶油制成的奶冻


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WINE TOURISM

zebras, wildebeests, springbuck, kudu, and eland so close to Cape Town.” At Boschendal, a winner at the Best of Wine Tourism awards, guests can stay in one of the restored farm workers’ cottages and explore the vast estate on foot, mountain bike, or horseback. Farm-to-table dining at the Werf Restaurant overlooks the very gardens from which the kitchen’s produce is freshly harvested. “More and more,” says Kathy van Niekerk, Boschendal’s cellar door manager, “we’re seeing that it’s important to include the whole family and provide offerings for all kinds of people.” Liesl Cluver Rust of Paul Cluver Wines agrees: “Whether it’s through food, music, art, or culture, what’s lovely about wine is that it brings together people from all walks of life.”

从前信步葡萄园、快速穿过酒窖、驻足喝几杯样品,接着买几 瓶酒带回家的葡萄酒观光之旅,如今已不复见。即便是 1971 年设立、南非首见的斯特兰德葡萄酒之旅路程,现在也只是作 为对酒窖会员的一种销售工具,无法真正吸引游客消费。事 过境迁,现在的葡萄酒观光行程已超越以往走马看花的层次, 转变成有关葡萄园的,或在葡萄园中一系列令人兴致勃勃的实 境体验。 斯特兰德葡萄酒之路的三位创始人,亦看准现今潮流, 将诸多让游客走入酿酒区并体验其文化精髓及灵魂的特色活 动,加入观光行程之中。Delheim 首先于 1976 年,在路线上 开设一家餐厅迎合游客需求,如今更设计特色葡萄酒及凡波斯 杯子蛋糕套餐,原料取自开普植物王国的原生植被,风味独具。

Simonsig 则提供一趟酒窖之旅,游客可在窖内体验手榨 MCC, 也可学习名为 sabrage 的用刀开瓶技术,用军刀打开香槟。 幅员辽阔的斯皮尔葡萄园,以人见人爱的行程掳获人心, wines across the cape

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WINE PAIRING AT LA MOT TE A La Motte wine ambassador guides guests through a wine-and-food experience. First, five taste sensations and their effects on wine are explored, in this case, with 2018 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc. Then follows a thoughtful pairing of five La Motte wines with a selection of South African heritage-cuisine canapés prepared by Eric Bulpitt, executive chef of Pierneef à La Motte Restaurant. La Motte 的葡萄酒大使将带领宾客领略美食佳酿相辅相 成的魔力。首先,以 2018 年 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc 为 例 子 感 受 酒 对 五 种 味 觉 的 影 响, 接 着 品 尝 五 款 La Motte 的美酒,与「Pierneef à La Motte」餐厅的主厨 Eric Bulpitt 准备的精选南非传统小菜一同享用,搭配成 完整的体验之旅。

F I V E TA S T E S E N S AT I O N S 味觉五感

S W E E T N E SS 甜 ( A P P L E 苹 果 ) Match the food’s sweetness with wine that is at least equal in sweetness; otherwise, the food will taste sour or bitter. 用甜度至少一样的甜酒衬托食物的香甜 ;酒不够甜则会 让食物显得偏酸或偏苦。

Thozama Thembani leads a wine tasting session at the Boschendal Manor House.

ACIDIT Y 酸 (LIME 莱姆 )

Thozama Thembani主持在Boschendal酒庄别墅举行的葡萄酒品鉴会

Whether in the form of citrus juice, fruits, or vinegar, it is important to match it with a wine that is equal in acidity, making the wine taste richer and mellower. 不论是来自橘汁的酸,或水果、醋的酸,重点是食物要 与酒的酸度相同,如此一来,酒才会显得更加浓厚芳醇。

包含平衡车园内导览、自助农场及遗产之旅,还有现采美食飨宴,借以 宣扬所用食材皆来自园内及邻近农场。葡萄园也相当注重透过视觉艺术

与社区建立正面连结。园内设有艺术工作室,游客可欣赏玻璃珠艺术及 马赛克磁砖铺设技艺。另外,园内处处可见方正木板,板上的优美画作

S A LT 咸 ( F E TA C H E E S E 菲 达 奶 酪 ) The classic combination is salty food with a wine of some degree of sweetness. Salt makes wine taste sweeter, but salt also has an affinity for wine with acidity.

皆是请老练和新锐艺术家共同制作,最后会拼成一大幅组合画,称作「创 。这项计划让斯皮尔的酿酒师大受启发,酿出 意板块 (creative block)」 「与艺 获奖无数的创意板块系列混和酒。高级酿酒师 Johan Jordaan 说 : 术相仿,创意板块系列葡萄酒皆经过精心筛选及悉心调制,如此才能发

带咸味的食物配上微甜的酒,是永远流行的经典组合。

挥团结力量大的混和优势。 」

咸味能让甜酒变得更甜,不过配上偏酸的酒也别有一番

位于斯特兰德、弗兰谷这些发展良久的区域,甚至是新兴埃尔金区

风味。

的酒庄,不约而同地皆在推展更多元的旅游体验,以一众庄园中脱颖而 「我们也不例外,正好那 出。Villiera Wines 的 Cathy Grier Brewer 说 :

时我表哥在找一块地方豢养野生动物。于是我脑中灵光一闪。 」很快酒 庄开始提供野外观赏车,让游客在占地两百二十公顷的野生动物保护所

B I T T E R N E SS 苦 ( R O C K E T 芝 麻 叶 ) Commonly found in some green vegetables and herbs, it should be matched with a wine with good acidity.

「大家来这里看到这些长颈鹿、斑马、角马、跳 内大饱眼福。Cathy 称 : 羚、黑斑羚及驼鹿,都不敢相信自己身在开普敦。 」 获得最佳葡萄酒旅游奖的 Boschendal 酒厂,提供修建后的原栋农

够的酒。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

U M A M I 鲜 ( S OY S A U C E 酱 油 )

This fifth sensation, perceived as savoriness or meatiness, requires a wine low in tannins and with good acidity. 第五味觉,也称作鲜味、肉味,适合搭配单宁含量低、 酸性良好的酒。

DAVID HARTUNG (2 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

许多绿色蔬菜与香草里都能找到的苦味,适合配酸度足

夫别墅,让游客能放下行李,好好地用脚、用越野脚踏车,或是骑马欣 赏整座庄园风光。园内的「Werf」餐厅可将农场菜园尽收眼底,一览盘 「我 中食材的生长之地。Boschendal 的酒窖管理员 Kathy Van Niekerk 说: 们越来越了解,要考虑各行各业、各年龄层的需求,才能让葡萄酒之旅 晋升为家庭旅游的选择之一。 」 「不论是藉由美 Paul Cluver Wines 的 Liesl Cluver Rust 也同意 : 食、音乐、艺术还是文化,葡萄酒都能与之融合,让世上的人们紧紧 相连。 」 wines across the cape

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Charred brackish-water prawns 焦脆淡盐水虾


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presently thai “WE START WITH A DISH that our guests will recognize, and then give it our modern i nte r p ret at i o n , ” s ays M o nt h e p “ T h e p” Kamolsilp, executive chef of Taan, the finecasual rooftop restaurant at Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok. “We transform their old memories into new ones by introducing interesting new elements.” Dinner, for example, may begin with an engaging amuse-bouche course in which guests are invited to pluck hors d’oeuvres from the branches of a small decorative tree. Thai pomelo salad is served as a starter, the bitesize segments of fruit seasoned with smoked, salt-cured snakehead fish in place of fish sauce and wrapped in croton leaves. “Everyone in Bangkok knows croton as a decorative plant, but they’re surprised to see the leaf on a dish and they ask, ‘We can eat it?’ That makes it more fun.” Thep first learned that crotons were edible while exploring northern Thailand. Taking inspiration from videos posted by P h a n u p h o n “B l a c k ” B u l s u wa n , c h ef of Blackitch Artisan Kitchen and a Thai pioneer in locally sourced dining, Thep embarked on a trip to the Hin Lad forest in Chiang Rai to observe the way of life of the Pga K’nyau tribe. “It was a spiritual awakening,” he says. “I returned ten times that year, to learn, not just about cooking but also about life.” Freely confessing that he does a lot of things “the wrong way,” Thep, who is Frenchtrained, hardly sees himself as a traditional Thai chef. Indeed, Taan staunchly affirms its departure from the conventional by touting the tagline, “hyper-local innovative Thai cuisine.” Taan’s menu reflects Thep’s care in sourcing from nearby organic farmers and

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Taan’s inspired chef brings mindfulness and imagination to his contemporary Thai cuisine.

Executive chef Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp wines across the cape

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「Taan」泰国料理天台餐厅,位于曼谷的时尚酒店 Siam@Siam,追求精致 「我们将顾客熟悉的 休闲。餐厅行政总厨 Monthep “Thep” Kamolsilp 说 : 料理,以崭新现代风貌呈现,以有趣的创意元素刷新顾客对料理的印象。 」 晚餐菜单以引人入胜的餐前点心揭开序幕,顾客可从小型装饰树的树 枝上摘下点心享用。接着是开胃菜泰式柚子沙拉,以盐腌生鱼取代鱼露, 连同水果一同包入巴豆叶中,每一口皆尝到浓浓的烟熏鱼香。主厨称 : 「曼 谷人以为巴豆是装饰用盆栽,每次看到盘中的巴豆叶都会问『这个真的能 吃吗?』看到这种逗趣反应也饶富兴味。 」

Thep 是在一次泰北历险中得知巴豆叶是可以食用的。看过「Blackitch Artisan Kitchen」 主 厨 兼 使 用 本 地 食 材 的 先 驱 Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan 上传的影片后,他毅然前往清莱的 Hin Lad 森林,观察 Pga K’nyau 部落的生活方式。他回想道 : 「这是一种精神上的觉悟。那一年我来回造 访了十次,不仅是学习厨艺,更是学习生活。 」

Thep 在法国受训,并未将自己视为传统的泰式料理厨师,同时他也 坦承,许多菜式他是以非传统的烹调手法制成。 「Taan」强调「极原味创 Popped rice and turmeric fish 爆米鱼排

意泰式美食」 ,明确与传统方式作出区分。

Thep 对环保的坚持于「Taan」餐厅菜单中展露无遗,食材合作对象 为邻近的有机耕农,或崇尚永续发展的渔民。出于对他们的尊重,Thep 会 尽可能用到食材的每一部分。每道菜式旁,皆以公里数标明主要食材的运

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送里程。为了减少浪费,每个食材部位会以不同方式物尽其用。例如,一 条鲜鱼的鱼肉为料理主角,鱼皮经盐腌、风干后,酥炸成一道可口配菜, 鱼头和鱼骨以细火慢炖,熬制成滋补养身汤。每晚的剩余米饭都会经煮沸、 碾压、风干、油炸,制成新鲜的米饼。对于何谓「最道地」 ,Thep 认为泰 国菜海纳百川,几世纪来融合诸多不同文化的影响与新食材,例如来自中 国的油炸法和拉丁美洲的辣椒。在此观念下,Thep 的独特作法,让泰式料 理崭露截然不同的面貌。西式技巧搭配泰式做法,选用当地有机食材,巧 妙摆盘带出画龙点睛之效,完美地诠释出他心中的「现代泰国风」 。

Tamarind fish broth 罗望子鱼汤

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

small-scale, sustainability-minded fishermen. He further honors their artisanal work by practicing nose-to-tail cooking. The menu lists distances in kilometers beside each dish to indicate how far its main components have traveled. And to reduce food waste, all possible parts of an ingredient are used in various forms. While a fish’s fillets may star in a dish, its skin is brined, dried, and deep-fried into a crunchy garnish, and its head and bones are slow-simmered into a nourishing broth. Each night’s leftover rice is boiled, puréed, dried, and deep-fried to make fresh rice crackers. Thep simply skips past endless debate over what is “real and authentic.” He prefers to acknowledge that Thai cuisine has absorbed influences and adopted ingredients from many different cultures over the centuries, such things as deep-frying from China and chilies from Latin America. On the strength of that insight, his approach arrives at an entirely new perspective on Thai food. Melding Western techniques with traditional Thai practices and applying them to organic local ingredients, Thep finishes with aesthetically innovative plating to create what he calls “present Thai cuisine.”


Named after the district in Nakhon Pathom province from which its ingredients are all sourced, the rich and fragrant Saam-Pran presents a playful, Thai twist on the Old Fashioned by substituting in Phraya rum, toddy palm water, and bael syrup. 这杯调酒以佛统府三攀县为名,所有材料皆来自此 区,利用当地的昭披耶河兰姆酒、糖棕水及木橘糖 浆,创作出饶富趣味的泰国风经典鸡尾酒改良版

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六手联弹

a six-hands jam Château Palmer invites Chef Ton of Le Du in Bangkok, Chef Richie Lin of Mume in Taipei, and Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery in Manila to create a memorable evening at Le Du.

maker, was on hand both evenings and had his own insights into how various Palmer vintages interacted with the flavors in each of the dishes, which we share in the notes for each of the pairings.

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TRADITIONAL WINE-PAIRING dinners can sometimes feel like a tightly programmed classical music concert: each chef soloist appears in sequence to present a meticulously perfected masterpiece. It quickly became clear that these three young Asian chefs would be adopting a different approach. “This is like a jam,” says Chef Navarra. “I think we probably won’t have the menu decided until fifteen minutes after service starts. It keeps things fluid, and we can adjust our dishes based on what others are doing. We have a plan, but even with that, it’s pretty open. We’re all willing to take risks.” More than just satisfying palates, Chef Ton says the goal is to reach the hearts of guests, many of whom are Le Du regulars: “This will open a lot of minds about how Bordeaux wine can be paired. Some people think that a great Bordeaux can’t be paired with something like spicy Thai food, but we’re going to show how it can.” Although they’d never all worked together at one event, Chef Lin thinks they have the makings of a natural team: “The three of us, our approach is quite similar – we all use a lot of local seasonal ingredients – and I think that’s why we decided we wanted to take on this challenge and cook together.” Thomas Duroux, Château Palmer CEO and wine-


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Fresh finds from the afternoon market visit were chayote shoots, wild celery, lemon basil, Malabar spinach, marigold, mustard flowers, and sunflower sprouts. “The markets here look the same but some things taste different – the fresh mustard leaves here are less pungent than back home, and so you need to try everything,” said Chef Navarra. But the chefs visiting from Manila and Taipei didn’t arrive in Bangkok empty-handed. “Customs were pretty good and didn’t give us a hard time,” said Chef Navarra, who brought handmade buro (fermented shrimp and rice) with him, while Chef Lin packed a classic Taiwanese five-spice mix that he knew would form the base of a sauce. 三人还前往午后市集挖掘新鲜的厨房之宝,包含佛手瓜苗、野生西 洋芹、柠檬罗勒、落葵、金盏花、芥菜花以及向日葵嫩芽。 「市集卖的东西看来大同小异,却滋味不同,例如芥 Jordy 解释 : 菜就没有我家乡的尝起来那么呛辣,所以食材都得入口才知分晓。 」 来自马尼拉和台北的两位主厨可是有备而来。提着自制的「buro」 「还好海关满友善的,没有『大 ( 发酵虾肉及米饭 ) 到曼谷的 Jordy 说 : 开杀戒』 。 」林主厨则带了台湾经典的五香调味料,他相信调味时肯定 派得上用场。

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传统的餐酒晚宴,有时难免让人觉得像是一场编 排严谨的古典音乐会 :每位主厨轮流照着定好的 乐谱演奏, 将精心设计、 零瑕疵的完美杰作端上桌。 各位参与晚宴的宾客很快发现,三位年轻的 亚洲主厨并不打算依瓢画葫。 「我们合作起来就像即兴演奏,最 Jordy 说 : 终菜单大概要等到晚宴开始十五分钟后才会决定 吧。随机应变,随时按照别人的举动调整自己的 料理方向。我们还是有大致的计划,只不过更喜 欢见机行事,毕竟我们三个都很乐意冒险。 」 除了满足味蕾,Ton 还想触动饕客们的心弦, 这些上门顾客大多是「Le Du」的常客。Ton 表 示: 「波尔多葡萄酒能搭配的料理超乎人们想像。 有人觉得好的波尔多不能与泰式香辣料理配在一 起,这次我就要让他们长长见识。 」 尽管不曾合作,但林主厨相信三人能合作无 间: 「我们的料理方式不谋而合,都喜欢使用当 地季节食材,我想这也是为何大家愿意接受挑战, 来到这里一同烹饪。 」 宝玛酒庄的执行长兼酿酒师 Thomas Durou 两个下午都亲自到场,心中已对酒庄各式陈年葡

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

萄酒如何与每道料理互动,有了自己的见解。

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“That’s the fun part of cooking together, to create something new on the day. We want to show how vibrant Asian flavors can pair with an iconic wine like Palmer. 厨房合作的好玩之处,在于能一起设计创新料 理。我们想展示活力充沛的亚洲美食,能如何 灵活搭配像宝玛这样具代表性的葡萄酒。” CHEF TON

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“This event will change people’s idea of how Bordeaux wine can be enjoyed. What I like is that we came up with some totally unusual pairings, and that’s exactly what we were looking for. 这场盛宴将改变人们享用波 尔多葡萄酒的方式。我想设计 的是截然不同的餐酒搭配, 这正是我们的共同目标。” CHÂTEAU PALMER CEO AND WINEMAKER THOMAS DUROUX

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S E A C AT F I S H , I V Y G O U R D , A N D C AT F I S H C U R R Y

“This is challenging because it has a delicate texture, with smokiness at the beginning and spiciness at the end. And so we need very delicate tannins but also strength and exuberance. 这项搭配难度颇高,料理本身质地细致,初入口带有烟熏香气,尾韵却辛辣刺激。 因此酒品需具备平衡的单宁酸,口感也要浓烈而丰厚。”

• Paired with Château Palmer 2005

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海鲶鱼、红瓜、鲶鱼咖喱


“Using spice as a chef is like using oak as a winemaker – if it’s used carefully, instead of clashing, it can provide balance and enhance the final result.

厨师运用调味料,就像酿酒师运 用橡木桶一样,只要分寸拿捏得 当,就能为整道料理大大加分。 ” THITID TASSANAKAJOHN LE DU BANGKOK WINES ACROSS THE CAPE | TK |

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“This dish is all about aroma and spice, and it needs a wine with body and complexity, texture and structure. 这道菜首重香气与调味,需要搭配酒体饱满、层次丰富、 口感结构厚重的葡萄酒。”

• Paired with Château Palmer 1995

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P O R K B E L LY, B U R O & M U S TA R D 猪五花、BURO、芥末


“It’s like riding a wave – the food and the wine, the spice and the tannins just keep chasing each other.

就像冲浪,料理的滋味与 美酒中的单宁,一波接一 波不断地相互追逐、超越 ” JORDY NAVARRA TOYO EATERY MANILA

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PRESENTED BY CHÂTEAU PALMER

OX TO N G U E , C U C U M B E R , A N D TA I WA N E S E S P I C E S

“It’s just the right amount of spice to challenge the wine but not overpower. The wine takes the spice and the smoothness returns, but then the food comes back and says, ‘Hey I’m the winner!’ It’s an incredible game. 这道菜调味恰到好处,足以引发酒的回馈却不过于强烈。酒和美食就像江湖过招,酒接下食物的香气之后, 用滑顺的口感回击,食物却又在酒入喉以后,香气不散,说着 : 『哈,我才是赢家!』”

• Paired with Château Palmer 2000

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

牛舌、小黄瓜、台湾香料


“It would be safe to just copy what we do back home, but even the cucumbers here taste different. So why not just keep everything open – we come, we taste, and then we decide what to do.

安全牌就是把在台北用的 那一套如法炮制,可惜这 里连小黄瓜吃起来都不 太一样。所以何不敞开 心胸,亲临现场,用心品 尝,再决定谱下篇章。 ” RICHIE LIN MUME TAIPEI

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PRESENTED BY CHÂTEAU PALMER

Being a winemaker is about time, humility, and having good taste and a great memory. There is no genius. There are fashions, and you can be ahead of the fashion or behind it. But when you have a historical terroir in your hands, and you have a vineyard with a very, very long history, it’s not about fashion but rather about the style of the place. And so your job is to understand the style and to work to respect it and then to go a bit further. And that’s it.

身为酿酒师,需要历练、谦卑、绝佳的味蕾以及优秀的记忆力。 没有一蹴而就的天才。 酿酒界也有潮流,你可以领先潮流, 也能被潮流远远甩开。 但假如你具备古老的风土条件,也拥有一座历史悠久的葡萄园, 你的眼界将能跨越潮流,转而专注于该地的专属风格。 因此,你要做的就是去发掘那种风格,向它致敬、使它发光发热。 如此而已。

THOMAS DUROUX CEO AND WINEMAKER

DAVID HARTUNG

CHÂTEAU PALMER

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PRESENTED BY TO’AK

陈酿可可

chocolate in the barrel To’ak adopts the flavor-enhancing methods of fine whiskies and wines.

FOR CENTURIES, wooden barrels have been used to store whisky, Cognac, and wine. Initially done for purely practical reasons, people began to notice over time that the extractable aroma compounds of the woods imparted appealing flavor characteristics. In the modern era, barrel-aging has become a critical component of whisky and wine production. Distilleries are particularly expert at using this method to their advantage. In fact, over 70 percent of the flavor profile of a well-aged whisky is the result of the barrel in which it was stored rather than the spirit itself. Some distilleries use multiple types of barrels to age a single edition. Macallan is particularly fond of this approach, which yields a delightfully complex dram influenced by two types of wood and the fragrant remnants of two types of spirit. Their whiskies are initially aged in American oak barrels previously used for bourbon and then finished for a few years in French oak barrels previously used for oloroso sherry. The question that Carl Schweizer and Jerry Toth, cofounders of To’ak Chocolate, asked themselves over five years ago was why not apply this same tried-and-true means of flavor enhancement to chocolate? The natural oil content in dark chocolate readily absorbs aromas, and when it is stored in something as fragrant as a former Cognac or whisky barrel, it should naturally acquire many of those flavors. This was the theory that Schweizer and Toth set out to test – with dazzling results. To’ak had already established a reputation as maker of the world’s most rarefied chocolate. Founded and based in Ecuador, To’ak uses the oldest and rarest cocoa bean variety in the world, Nacional, to make extremely limited editions of single-origin Ecuadorian dark chocolate. And now they’ve become the first chocolate makers to comprehensively apply barrel-aging to their production repertoire. To’ak started in 2014 by importing a fifty-year-old French oak Cognac cask to Ecuador. Their Vintage 2014 Cognac Cask Matured 4 Years edition, of which only 100 bars were produced, sold out almost immediately at USD365 a bar. Since then, they’ve aged their chocolate in whisky, port, sherry, Sauternes, tequila, and bourbon casks, in addition to seven types of Ecuadorian wood. To’ak’s sophisticated use of wood and ex-spirit barrels has prompted many to refer to the company as “The Macallan of the chocolate world.” At retail prices of up to USD685 a bar, their products represent the highest tier of the world of high-end chocolate, a world they’re in the process of deliciously reshaping.

数世纪以来,木桶被广泛用以储存威士忌、干邑白兰地 和葡萄酒。原先只用来当作容器的木桶,却被人们发现 木头中的芳香物质会随着时间散发,透出迷人的香气。 时间拉回现代,使用木桶熟成的步骤已是威士忌、 葡萄酒制造过程中不可或缺的关键部分。酿酒厂便大量 运用此法。事实上,完全熟成的威士忌中,百分之七十 的香气来自存放的木桶,其余的部分才是酒体本身的味 道。 有些酒厂更会在熟成过程运用多款不同种类的木 桶。麦卡伦酒厂是当中的佼佼者,其以两种不同的木桶, 加上两种不同的残留酒气,让酒获得美妙的综合风味。 他们的威士忌酿制亦遵循此法,先在存放波本威士忌的

To’ak Chocolate is available at the Chocolate Club Hong Kong. Also available online at toakchocolate.com, it ships worldwide from Ecuador.

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美国橡木桶熟成,接着再移到存放雪莉酒的法国橡木桶 中陈放。


COURTESY OF TO’AK

Cognac Cask Matured 4 Years edition」由此诞生,这

To’ak 巧 克 力 的 共 同 创 办 人 Carl Schweizer 和 「何不将这种实证过 Jerry Toth 在五年前对自己发问 :

一批巧克力仅有 100 盒,一开卖便以每条 365 美金的

有效的风味增强法,应用在巧克力制造上呢?」黑巧

售价销售一空。从此,他们的巧克力熟成时光都是在

克力内含的天然油脂,易于吸收环境中的气味,如果

各式酒桶中度过,其中包括威士忌、波特酒、雪莉酒、

将巧克力存放在香气四溢的干邑白兰地或威士忌酒桶

苏玳酒、龙舌兰酒、波本酒的酒桶,以及其他七种厄

中,应能自然地吸收这些木香与酒气。于是两人便依

瓜多尔木桶。

此假设进行测试,惊人结果也成功证明了他们的推论。

To’ak 对于多款木头与烈酒木桶的娴熟运用,让世

To’ak 的巧克力是当今世上公认最香醇的巧克力。

人不禁将他们联想成「巧克力界的麦卡伦」 。每条 685

这个在厄瓜多尔土生土长的品牌,使用全球最古老、

美金的零售价,象征他们在高档巧克力界尊爵不凡的

稀有,称作「Nacional」的可可豆,来制作稀世珍宝

地位,引领产业迈向一场美味新革命。

等级的单一产区厄瓜多尔黑巧克力。该品牌如今更是 全球首个将木桶熟成技术应用于巧克力生产的制造商。

2014 年,To’ak 将 一 个 具 有 五 十 年 资 历 的 干 邑 白 兰 地 法 国 橡 木 桶 运 送 到 厄 瓜 多 尔。 「Vintage 2014

现在至 The Chocolate Club Hong Kong 即可购买 To’ak 巧克力。如欲网上订购,请至 toakchocolate.com,产 品将从厄瓜多尔寄出,全球皆可运送。 wines across the cape

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吮指「美」味

american adventure An innovative chef restores the exciting tradition of wild game to the contemporary cuisine of Hunter & The Chase.

C ALIFORNIA-BORN FELIPE LOPEZ, executive chef of Hong Kong’s immensely popular Hunter & The Chase, is quickly gaining a name for his intensely flavorful signature creations, many influenced by America’s culinary heritage of wild game. “Diners today have a more educated understanding of flavors, of ingredients, of food in general than just a few years ago,” he says. “Tastes have matured and people are much more adventurous about trying exotic dishes, new combinations, and unusual cuts of meat – including game.” In addition to American classics like perfectly grilled USDA Prime steaks, the menu features

a range of wild-caught seafood and sophisticated premium game dishes designed to appeal to Hong Kong’s highly evolved dining scene. For the chef’s enticing rabbit confit with duck fat, hunter’s pickles, and sourdough, the tender, slow-cooked meat is shredded and combined with just enough duck fat to create a luxurious creamy texture like pâté. Lopez finds that reminding diners

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香港当红餐厅「Hunter & The Chase」的行 政主厨 Felipe Lopez 在加州出生,最近他 受美国的狩猎野味文化影响,推出一系列 令人回味的招牌料理,让他的名气迅速窜 「现今客人对料理风味及食 红。Felipe 说 : 材的认识更进一步,品味逐渐成熟,也更 乐于尝试异国料理、新的食材搭配和特殊 的肉品部位,包括野味肉。 」 除 了 经 典 的 美 国 肉 品 如 USDA Prime 牛扒,餐厅亦提供野生捕捞的鲜美海鲜和 顶级野味肉,以迎合香港餐饮界的发展。


PRESENTED BY SHORE HOSPITALITY GROUP

Rabbit Confit – duck fat, hunter’s pickles, sourdough

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

手撕油封兔肉伴自家渍物

of something they have enjoyed before makes a new experience more accessible. Pasta provides a familiar segue to the heartiness of wild boar. Homemade pappardelle is laced with a robust ragu of braised boar, red wine, and tomatoes. A toss of grated Grana Padano makes an elegant finish. Lopez’s savory dish of braised bison short ribs with seasonal forest mushrooms and homemade hunter’s pickles is perfect for sharing. Braising, he says, ensures fork-tender ribs. The braising liquid, brimming with seasonal mushrooms and red wine, is reduced to create a complex sauce that brings all the elements together. “I especially love to bring diners new flavor experiences like bison and wild boar,” says Lopez. “I want Hunter & The Chase to be known as Hong Kong’s premier restaurant for modern American food and exceptional game.”

Braised Bison Short Ribs – forest mushrooms, hunter’s pickles 炖野牛肋骨肉伴森林野菌

其中主厨的手撕油封兔肉伴自家渍物,经慢煮的嫩肉被切碎,加入适量鸭油后拌出如鹅肝 酱一般的滑顺细致口感。他发现能促使客人尝鲜的关键在于唤起他们对于某种料理的味觉 记忆。 烩野猪肉酱阔条意粉结合人们对意粉的熟悉感与野猪肉带来的的舒心感,自家制意粉 搭配浓郁炖肉酱、红酒及番茄,最后以现磨奶酪点缀优雅上桌。 菜单中的炖野牛肋骨肉伴森林野菌适合多人共享,慢火炖煮使肋排入口即化,炖汁中 加入时令菇菌及红酒,煮至收汁成为融合各食材风味的淋酱。 「我热衷于为客人带来如野牛肋骨及野猪肉等创新风味,并期许『Hunter Felipe 说道 : & The Chase』能成为香港首屈一指的美国风味及野味餐厅。」 wines across the cape

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PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

英伦之颠

at its peak Bread Street Kitchen & Bar takes its relaxed dining experience to new heights.

the world to see,” says Head Chef Gareth Packham of Bread Street Kitchen & Bar’s exhilarating new location. The restaurant, which is the brainchild of celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay, has recently relocated from the Lan Kwai Fong nightlife district to the Peak Galleria, a sightseeing hotspot, thanks to its perch at the highest point on Hong Kong Island. The new site features an airy alfresco dining terrace, spacious indoor seating, and an open kitchen. Styled on the design of the famous London original, the warehouse-look interiors combine vintage and modern elements. Renowned for its charcoal-grilled steaks, some dry-aged for twenty-eight days or more, Bread Street Kitchen & Bar sources its premium butcher cuts from Britain, Australia, Argentina, and New Zealand. The range of deliciously glorified UK comfort food includes old favorites like crispy fish and chips – which Packham says he has fond memories of devouring in childhood – and a heartwarming,

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「您眼前所见可是各国游客争相前来一饱眼福的 美丽景色。 」身在「Bread Street Kitchen & Bar」 最近迁至的新据点,大厨 Gareth Packham 这么 说着。厨师 Gordon Ramsay 可谓家喻户晓,这 所餐厅正是他的心血结晶。餐厅最近刚从兰桂 坊夜生活区乔迁至山顶广场,此处位于全香港 最高点,四周景色一览无遗,因此人潮络绎不绝。 开阔的露天用餐平台、宽敞的室内用餐区以及 开放式厨房,都是这里别致的特色。整体风格 以著名伦敦原创设计为主轴,仓库风的内装更 结合古典与现代元素。 「Bread Street Kitchen & Bar」闻名的炭烤 牛排,部分经至少二十八天干式熟成,是来自 英国、澳洲、阿根廷及纽西兰等国家的顶级优 质原块肉品。餐厅还奉上系列令人垂涎、抚慰 人心的英式料理,其中包括 Gareth 幼时最喜爱

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“WE’RE IN A BEAUTIFUL PLACE that people come from around


Shepherd’s pie with peas and carrots 牧羊人派配豌豆及胡萝卜

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FEATURE

Octopus, chimichurri, puy lentils 章鱼、阿根廷青 酱、普伊扁豆

Grilled sea bass 炙烤海鲈 ← Beef Wellington, mashed potatoes, and peppercorn sauce 威灵顿牛排、马铃薯 泥、黑胡椒酱

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的酥脆炸鱼薯条,以及暖人心扉的道地牧羊人派。而 餐厅最远近驰名的拿手好菜,当然非顶极威灵顿牛排 莫属了,这可是主厨 Gordon Ramsay 最受欢迎的招 「想在香港找到完美呈现英 牌料理之一。Gareth 说 : 式风味的餐厅,实在是不容易。 」 有了得天独厚的地点及装潢加持, 「Bread Street Kitchen & Bar」 的 经 典 菜 单 当 然 也 得 焕 然 一 新。 「这是非常自然的适应过程,万事万物会 Gareth 说 : 随境而变,菜单也不例外。 」因此餐厅增加了专为附 近人潮设计的早点,还有为旅人全天供应的菜式,当

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

honest-to-goodness shepherd’s pie. But the restaurant’s pièce de résistance will always remain the ultimate beef Wellington, one of Ramsay’s most in-demand signatures. “It’s hard,” says Packham, “to find a place in Hong Kong that does British cuisine really well.” With its dramatic new setting comes an array of fresh additions to Bread Street Kitchen & Bar’s menu of classics. “It’s a natural process of evolution,” says Packham. “You adapt to your surroundings.” The chef has introduced breakfast for the earlymorning neighborhood crowd, all-day dining for hikers, and specialties that speak to the area’s casual and friendly vibe. Taking


PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

a cue from the sunny locale, he has created what he calls “summer on a plate,” his interpretation of a Mediterranean octopus dish. “It’s covered in chimichurri sauce and paired with a light, fresh lentil salad.” Packham’s grilled sea bass, cooked over charcoal, is influenced by the family-style dining beloved by Hong Kong. “It’s meant for sharing,” he says, “and that turns dinner into an informal, fun affair. The essence of Bread Street Kitchen & Bar has always been people, and our goal is to give our guests a whole lot of wonderful memories.”

然少不了呼应本地休闲、友善气氛的地区特色料理。 大厨更就地取材,从丰沛的阳光汲取灵感,创造一道 独特地中海式章鱼料理,名为「盘中之夏」 。他称: 「这 道菜是章鱼肉淋上浓郁阿根廷青酱,搭配轻爽、新鲜 的扁豆沙拉。 」 受到香港人最爱的家庭式料理所启发,Gareth 推出以炭火慢烧的炙烤海鲈。他说 : 「这道菜诉说的 就是分享,将平凡的晚餐转变成轻松、有趣的亲友互 动时光。我们一直至终秉持以人为本的原则,希冀每 位顾客用餐后都能获得满满的美好回忆。 」 wines across the cape

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PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

富饶之年

promising harvest Austria’s ripe and bountiful 2018 vintage bodes well for the wines to come.

GROWERS across Austria are aglow over the earliest grape harvest ever recorded, surpassing the previous year ’s volume and estimated to total about 2.75 million hectoliters. Such an abundance of fine-quality grapes, even with the more modest harvests recorded in certain regions because of too

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little or too much rain, has meant a nationwide 20 percent increase in the maximum permitted yield per hectare. This will help many estates to recoup crop losses from the underperforming 2017 vintage. Cold temperatures in February and March, after an unusually warm January, brought delayed budding of the vines, which fortunately prevented the damage from late frosts that was suffered in the previous two years. The second-warmest spring since 1767 then stimulated the vines’ growth cycle to catch up with the calendar. By the end of May, one of the earliest blossomings on record was complete across most regions, and this advanced growth pattern continued throughout a hot summer. Although June brought moderate rainfall, July had some especially hot and very dry periods, particularly in Weinviertel, Austria’s largest winegrowing region, famous for its signature grüner veltliner grape. Quick application of irrigation and other techniques helped to protect younger and more shallow-rooted vines from the harsh conditions. By August, the harvest was already underway in some areas. Welcome cooler air arrived at the end of the month, but thunderstorms and heavy rain occasionally hindered the process. Following a September that was mild, sunny, and mostly dry, picking for the most part was complete by the start of October. And then, rather than enjoying t h e o f te n b a l m y d ay s o f a n A u s t r i a n October in the open air, winemakers from Niederösterreich to Wien, from Burgenland to Steiermark, had the greater pleasure of taking to their cellars to begin the patient and painstaking vinification of 2018’s superior vintage.


2018 年奥地利的葡萄产量实现同比猛增,达

热的夏天以惊人的速度生长。尽管六月的雨量

到约 2.75 亿升,更是创下当地有史以来最早

适中,七月却有几天特别干燥闷热,此情况在

的收成,让一众葡萄农惊讶不已。

威非尔特尤为明显,该区是奥地利最大的葡萄

根据以往纪录,境内有某些地区因雨量

酒产区,以种植绿维特利纳葡萄闻名。快速灌

过少或过多而较欠收,而这些地区今年也获得

溉和其他先进技术,让较嫩与较浅根的葡萄藤

了喜人的葡萄收成,比每公顷最大限制产量还

得以战胜这种气候。

高出百分之二十。换言之,许多庄园所有人将 能填平 2017 年因收获不佳造成的损失。 过暖的一月,以及接续寒冷的二、三月, 让葡萄藤发芽速度减慢,反而意外躲过前两年 扰人的后期霜害。接着,当地迎来了自 1767

八月前,某些区域已开始采收。宜人的 冷空气在八月月杪登陆,偶有雷雨及大雨来扰 乱收成。随之而来的九月显得温和、晴朗且较 为干燥,多数地区在十月初前已完成采收。 从奥地利下游到维也纳,再从布尔根兰

年以来第二暖的春天,这加速了葡萄藤的生长,

到施泰尔马克州,奥地利的酿酒人没有走出户

赶上落后的进度。

外,享受芬芳的十月天,而是怀着雀跃的心,

五月下旬,多数地区的葡萄藤都已开花 完成,这速度居历史纪录前列,随后藤蔓在酷

将 2018 年卓越不凡的庄园收获,搬移到酒窖 中,开始艰苦的酿酒过程。 wines across the cape

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TRAVEL

非洲奇遇记

AF RI CAN E N C O U N T ER S On his way to CapeWine 2018, TK’s MARK HAMMONS spends three days communing with his animal-kingdom cousins at Lukimbi Safari Lodge in Kruger National Park.

CO N V E R S AT I O N AT A N Y S A FA R I LO D G E often revolves around recent sightings of the “big five,” which originally referred to those animals considered the most dangerous to hunters: lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants, and African buffalo. But beyond the checklists of such must-sees, a host of subtler safari pleasures is waiting to be discovered. Those who have been to zoos, even zoos with significant space for animals to roam, may underestimate the vast difference between them and a safari. There is a sense of immediacy when encountering wild animals on their own turf that is hard to describe. Human visitors are generally not in serious danger – as long as they don’t foolishly leave their vehicles – but the air is always filled with a palpable tension and an energy of unpredictability. Everyone has an imaginary elephant archetype, but closer observation reveals that the range of personalities in an elephant herd is as varied as that among the pack of tourists watching them. One elephant may be languid and reserved, another more aggressive, stomping his feet in the dirt and waving his trunk grandly about. A third may be more interested in hygiene, trying to clean herself with showers of dust blown from her trunk, while off to one side, a youngster is focused on performing for his newly arrived human audience, prancing an improvised jig with a twist of his trunk and a coy turn of his tender ears.

置身猎游饭店,人们的话题总围绕 着目击「非洲五霸」-狮子、花 豹、犀牛、大象及非洲水牛的经验。 这五种动物拥有如此霸气的称号, 是 因 为 它 们 对 猎 人 的 威 胁 最 大。 但其实除了五霸,非洲还有更多 野生动物的千姿百态正等待发掘。 许多人去过动物园,但即使 是空间大到能让动物四处漫游的 动物园,依然不能与猎游体验相 提并论。与野生动物在它们的栖 地直接接触的即时感受,难以言 喻。只要待在车内,游客通常安 全 无 虞, 但 身 处 这 样 的 荒 野 中, 还是充满着紧张感与不可预测 性。 对于大象,人人心中各有不 同的定义,直到靠近观察,才发 现大象的性格迥异,差异性之大 与正盯着他们的游客们相比可说 是毫不逊色。有些慢条斯理又保 守 ;有些跺着脚、挥着鼻子展现 其攻击性 ;还有些注重卫生,正 用鼻子喷出的沙尘清洗着自己 ; 眼光一转,可能还会看到年轻的 大象转着鼻子、扭着柔软的耳朵, 即兴地手舞足蹈着,让观众们大 饱眼福。

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Betsy Haynes

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The safari rules of engagement mandate that vehicles may leave the road only to track carnivores. The thinking goes that elephants, giraffes, buffalo, and other big herbivores are common enough that it’s not justified to tear up the terrain with the wheels and undercarriage of a Land Rover just to get in closer for better photos. 猎游有一项规定,指明只有在追踪 肉食动物时,才能驶离大道。因为 如大象、长颈鹿、水牛等大型草食 动物常在园区内出现,因此不允许 游客只为拍到更好的照片,就让越 野车的轮子和底盘在栖地上刮出一 道道的伤疤。

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Carnivores like lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and leopards are rare enough that extraordinary measures are permitted in order to gain a sighting. With little advance warning, the ranger may veer wildly off the jeep path and into the surrounding undergrowth, steering between larger trees and plowing right over many smaller ones, all the while communicating by radio with other trackers following the same lead. 而狮子、猎豹、鬣狗、花豹等 肉食动物不会轻易露脸,才特 别允许车辆深入栖地,让游客 亲眼目睹。于是简要说明注意 事项后,管理员便将车来个大 转弯,驶入周遭的灌木丛,在 大 树 间 穿 梭, 压 过 无 数 矮 树, 一边用对讲机与其他追迹人保 持联络。

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It might seem easier just to use drones to monitor the locations of the rarest species, but it turns out that they are strictly prohibited in the park. There is a fear that drones could be used by poachers to track endangered species like rhinos and also a feeling that introducing too much technology into the safari experience could remove the crucial element of unpredictability. 看到这里,也许会觉得先用航拍机定位是更聪明的 做法,然而航拍机其实是园内的违禁品之一。因为 第一,航拍机可能被盗猎者用来追踪如犀牛的稀有 动物。第二,猎游所强调的不可预测性,恐怕会因 运用高科技产品而消失殆尽。 TRAVEL

Lukimbi Rangers

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“There is a sense of immediacy when encountering wild animals on their own turf that is hard to describe… the air is filled with a palpable tension and an energy of unpredictability.” wines across the cape

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To observe a male lion swaggering between a freshly killed buffalo and a nearby mate is to gain a new appreciation for the term king of the jungle. Even when encountering the same species repeatedly, no two moments are the same. Fortunately, lions see a jeep full of khaki-clad tourists as a single, harmless, inedible object, and so it’s possible to get close to a pack of them without seeing any change in their mostly placid expression. Male lions in motion may be a fearsome sight, but between their powerful performances, they sleep up to twenty hours a day. 看着一头公狮在刚死的水牛和母狮之间昂首阔步,能刷 新人们对丛林之王这个词的想像。即便是同样的物种, 每次的相遇时刻都独一无二。幸好在狮子眼中,载满穿 着卡其色装束游客的吉普车,只是一样无害、不可食的 物体,人们才有机会在不惊动它们的情况下,近距离地 观赏这奇妙动物。仅管公狮的一举一动看起来吓人,但 在强势背后,一天却需要长达二十小时的睡眠。

TRAVEL

Filipe Cunha Santos

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It’s not only lions who need their rest: most of the region’s animals take

园内除了狮子,大多数动物也会在炎热的中午

a long siesta during the hot midday hours. The normal rhythm of a safari

睡上一个长长的午觉,因此猎游的步调也得趁

is built accordingly around an early start, with a drive from six to nine in

早。清晨六点到九点便是第一批行程,随后享

the morning followed by breakfast and a bush walk around the vicinity of

用早餐,接着在手持猎象枪管理员的戒护下,

the lodge – staying close to rangers armed with elephant guns. A second

在饭店附近的草丛漫步。第二批就要到午后三

outing takes place in the afternoon from three-thirty to six-thirty. Dinners

点半到六点半。有时轻松宜人的晚餐时间会供

are relaxed and sometimes include legally hunted local game, such as

应合法捕猎的野味,如柔嫩多汁的黑斑羚、精

impala (tender and juicy), ostrich (lean and delicious), kudu (also popular

瘦美味的鸵鸟、常被制成肉干的捻角羚,还有

in the form of biltong, a local jerky), and warthog (try the ribs).

不可错过的疣猪肋排。

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PRESENTED BY HOFEX

Heinz Tomato Ketchup is world-renowned. 番茄酱品牌亨氏享誉国际 Sabatino Tartufi offers premium Italian truffle products. Sabatino Tartufi供应顶 级意大利松露制品

掌握环球美食优势

far and wide HOFEX 2019 brings exhibitors and visitors from across the globe to Asia’s leading food and hospitality trade show.

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THIS YEAR’S HOFEX, held May 7-10 at Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, promises to be the best and biggest ever. The massive show, now in its thirty-second year, packs a powerful international punch. Seventy-four countries and regions will be represented, with fortyeight national and group pavilions showing off their most enticing culinary delights. From Australia to Finland, Latvia to Peru, Singapore to Sweden, the roster goes on and on, countries whose thriving food and beverage industries are eager to bring the finest they have to offer to Asia’s burgeoning markets.The range of exhibits is kaleidoscopic: sectors include Food & Drinks, Bakery & Confectionery, Bean2Cup, ProWine Asia, and Meat. Held in Hall 3B, Meat @HOFEX is designed to satisfy the surging

来自七十四个国家与地区代表,在依国籍与团

demand across Asia for prime meats by providing an ideal forum for sourcing top-quality products from countries around the world. Hong Kong is represented by industry leaders like Sutherland Gastronomy, purveyors of luxury meats throughout the region.

Sutherland Gastronomy 代表出场。 相邻的 The Beer Street,则由香港顶尖的

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体划分的四十八个展间呈献最诱人的美味,一 争全场焦点。从澳洲到芬兰、拉脱维亚到秘鲁, 再从新加坡到瑞典,各国蓬勃发展的餐饮业竭 尽全力,向亚洲新兴市场端出最自豪的宝藏。 展区类型包罗万象,包含食品及饮料区、 烘培及糕点区、咖啡专区、国际葡萄酒与烈酒 区及高级肉类专区。 近来亚洲各国对精品肉类的需求高涨,因 此 位 于 展 覧 厅 3B 的 高 级 肉 类 专 区 将 是 最 佳 的肉类交流平台,展现各国最顶级的优质肉 品。香港则由本地精品肉类供应界的领头羊

手工精品啤酒商及其他海外品牌领衔展出。屠 宰技术挑战赛将在啤酒展区旁举行,邀请宾客


Sutherland Gastronomy is Hong Kong’s leader in luxury meats. Sutherland Gastronomy是香港首屈一指的高级肉品供应商

Nearby is The Beer Street, featuring some of Hong Kong’s top craft beer brewers along with many overseas brands. The Butchery Skills Challenge will be sharing cooked meats with beer exhibitors so that visitors can snack away as they sample brews. Also among exhibitors who will be offering daily treats are Heinz, US maker of the legendary tomato ketchup that rules the culinary world, and Sabatino Tartufi of Umbria, Italy, producer of premium truffle products, including Truffle Zest®, Black Truffle Paté, and White Truffle Olive Oil. The show will also feature a range of exhibitors whose products and services improve functionality and efficiency. Sectors include Foodservice Equipment & Catering Supplies, Hospitality Technology, and Hospitality Design & Supplies. With projections of more than 2,800 exhibitors and 42,000 trade buyers, the spectacle that is HOFEX 2019 will take place in award-winning Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. One the largest facilities of its kind in Asia, it’s also the perfect venue for one of the most impressive trade shows on earth.

在试饮啤酒时,顺道来口肉类小点。 同样于展厅供应美味点心让宾客一饱口福 的,就是烹饪界传奇、家喻户晓的美国番茄酱 品牌亨氏,还有来自意大利翁布利亚大区的顶 级松露产品制造商 Sabatino Tartufi,其产品线以 多元化著称,包含松露调味粉、黑松露肉酱及 白松露橄榄油等。 展览中亦划分专区,展示可让餐饮业者事 半功倍的设备与服务商品,包括餐饮、厨房设 备及供应区、酒店服务及科技专区和酒店款待 供应专区。 场面盛大、精彩可期的 HOFEX 2019,预计 将迎来逾 2,800 家展览商及 42,000 位买家,选 定堪称亚洲最大、获奖历历的香港会议展览中 心隆重开幕,绝对能带给宾客一场难忘的贸易 展览会。 wines across the cape

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Restaurant Mosaic Épure

Fyn 5

Japanese

5

5

British Shop G02, G/F, The Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, Hong Kong

香港山顶山顶道118号山号广场地下G02号 q +852 2350 3888

Mon-Fri: 11:00-22:00 Sat-Sun: 08:00-22:00

Dinner: Wed, Fri and Sat:

Lunch: 12:00–14:30

19:00-20:30

Hunter & The Chase 5

American & European 3/F and 4/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环皇后大道中139号The L. Place 3楼 及4楼 q +852 2915 1638

Dinner: 18:00-23:00 TK | wines across the cape

Lunch: Wed-Sun: 12:30-13:30

Dinner: 18:30–22:30

Lunch: 11:30-15:00

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Elandsfontein, Pretoria q +27 12 371 2902

香港尖沙咀海港城海洋中心4楼403

Mon-Sun: 11:30-01:00

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Crocodile River Valley,

q +852 3185 8338

Dinner: 18:30-20:30

Bread Street Kitchen & Bar

Contemporary French City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong

Str., 8000, South Africa Lunch: Tue-Fri: 12:00-14:00;

The Orient Boutique Hotel,

Shop 403, Level 4, Ocean Centre, Harbour

5th Floor, Speakers Corner, 37 Parliament q +27 21 286 2733

European

5

Taan 5

Hyper-local innovative Thai 25th Fl. Siam@Siam Design Hotel Bangkok, 865 Rama I Road, Patumwan Wang Mai, Bangkok

q +66 65 328 7374

Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:00-23:00


is now Launched www.HOFEX.com/reg/


Take a Moment At The Executive Centre, we understand that the little things can make all the difference when it comes to curating an exceptional work environment. Our expansive network gives you access to flexible spaces that can accommodate everything from private offices to largescale events, and everything in between.... right down to the onsite barista serving your coffee just the way you like it.

+852 2293 2293

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DESSERT

马尼拉「Toyo Eatery」餐厅的主厨 Jordy Navarra 为宾客带来菲律宾流行的巧克力与干鱼配 搭。他选用来自达沃的菲律宾巧克力和用鱼酱调味的焦糖牛奶,基底是同样来自达沃的可 可豆粒,旁边则是脆皮干鱼。

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DAVID HARTUNG

Chef Jordy Navarra of Toyo Eatery shares his take on the popular Filipino pairing of chocolate and dried fish in this dessert of Philippine chocolate, fish sauce, and calamansi. Featured are premium chocolate from Davao and dulce de leche seasoned with fish sauce. Cocao nibs, also from Davao, are underneath, and on the side are crispy dried fish. Read more about Chef Navarra starting on p.102.


THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

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of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

open a cellar door to meet the most ap-

among the world’s greatest wines and

proachable international stars imagina-

are poured at renowned restaurants all

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TK40 Wines Across the Cape  

This issue celebrates the spectacular wines, gastronomy, and culture of South Africa. We start by visiting a Cape Town potter whose color gl...

TK40 Wines Across the Cape  

This issue celebrates the spectacular wines, gastronomy, and culture of South Africa. We start by visiting a Cape Town potter whose color gl...