TK39 Land of Agave by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 39

L A N D

K I T C H E N O F

MEXICO

A G A V E

The Succulent Spirit 「酒」访故土

HONG KONG

Viva Agave! 品味龙舌兰

TEQUILA

A Little for the Spirits 墨魂流传

STARTER

Chef Esdras Ochoa of 11 Westside in Hong Kong presents hamachi ceviche, which features a base of roasted tomatillo-avocado sauce topped with sashimi-grade fish sourced from Japan. “I eat ceviche a lot,” he says, “especially when I’m where I come from – near the Sea of Cortez in the Pacific.” 香港「11 Westside」主厨 Esdras Ochoa 用烤墨西哥酸浆酪梨酱作为基底，放上日本直送的生食等级鰤鱼，制成风格别具的酸橘汁腌鱼。

DAVID HARTUNG

「我很爱吃腌鱼，特别是在家乡太平洋沿岸科尔特斯海的时候。」 Esdras 说：

TK | land of agave

T A S T I N G 39

L A N D

K I T C H E N O F

A G A V E

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer. Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

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The blue agave is the only variety of the succulent plant that Mexican federal law permits in the production of tequila. At harvest, its thick spiny leaves are cut away to reveal the heart, the piña, the rich source of sugars that are cooked, fermented, and distilled into the storied spirit. 按墨西哥法律规定，蓝色龙舌兰是唯一可以酿制龙舌兰酒的多肉植物品种。采收龙舌兰时，需先割下它的厚叶，取出龙舌兰芯。龙舌兰芯是糖份的来源，经烹煮、发酵后，再蒸馏成传承墨西哥精神的龙舌兰酒。

TK | land of agave

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. The genesis of this issue, Land of Agave, traces to my first encounter with bartender Jay Khan four years ago. I was charmed by several of his cocktails and mesmerized by his encyclopedic knowledge of what goes into them. Already an ardent student of agave spirits, Jay had started making annual pilgrimages to Mexico. As our friendship deepened, he one day popped what now seems an inevitable question: would TK like to come with him to Tequila? Director of Photography David Hartung and I immediately agreed. Soon finding ourselves outfitted in sombreros and surrounded by coawielding jimadores, we absorbed facts about piñas, tahonas, fructans, column stills, diffusers, and spontaneous fermentation. What left the strongest impression were days spent in the midst of vast oases of agaves contemplating the patient contribution of every plant – each one must spend six to eight years in the ground before the spirit-making process can even commence. It may sound a bit mystical, but once you’ve forged a personal bond with the agave as a living thing and have come to appreciate its sacrifice, tequila is experienced in a whole new way. Its rich herbal notes and deep connection to the earth are tasted in every sip. One of our most memorable distillery visits was to Fortaleza, founded by the inimitable Guillermo Erickson Sauza. After decades away from Mexico, Guillermo returned in middle age to restart his family’s historic stills. He began making small batches of traditionally crafted tequilas that are now regarded by connoisseurs as some of the purest expressions of agave’s potential. There are parts of the world you never expect to see, but once you arrive, you know they will leave their marks for a lifetime. Our tequila odyssey was that type of journey, and we hope our enthusiasm for the place and its storied spirit will prove infectious.

MARK HAMMONS

TK | land of agave

Mark Hammons, Jay Khan, and David Hartung

land of agave

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12 Japanese Aristocrat • 14 Patterns of Life • 16 Alchemy in Yucatán 20 Viva Agave! • 28 The Succulent Spirit • 70 A Little for the Spirits 78 Raising Spirits • 84 Sumptuous Style • 88 Mythical Mixology

20 108 102

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68 60

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118 70 38

90 88 58 32

CONTENTS

92 Revisiting a Classic • 94 The Mexicali–Hong Kong Express 98 Melco’s 10-Star Spectacular • 114 Of Land and Sea 116 To the Heights • 120 The Spice Is Right • 124 Centuries of Innovation 129 L I S T I N G S • 132 L A S T C A L L

16 108 102 98 14

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68 60

118 38 28

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124 90 58 land of agave

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WINE ART

日本贵族

japanese aristocrat

二十一世纪葡萄酒界的其中一项重大变革，就是亚洲崛起成为葡萄酒酿制与消费中心。即便中国的葡萄栽培技术并非全然成熟，葡萄也大多数被直接食用及制作成果脯，但凭

An old native grape is finding new expression in wines of subtle distinction. COLUMN AND ART BY SARAH HELLER

TK | land of agave

ONE OF THE GREATEST SHIF TS in the

借着全球知名的中国琼浆玉液「敖云」与「加

twenty-first-century wine world is likely to be the emergence of Asia as a vital center of production as well as consumption. China has set things aflutter with prestige bottlings like Ao Yun and Jia Bei Lan and with its rapid rise in vineyard acreage, although not all of it has yet reached maturity and much of it is devoted to table grapes and raisins. Japan, meanwhile, has been chipping away more quietly at the challenge of modern, international-level viticulture. A cadre of top producers like Tomi No Oka, Grace Wine, and Château Mercian, founded in 1877, have coalesced around koshu, Japan’s native grape once relegated to lowgrade, sugar-dosed wines. Understated and inherently fine in bearing, top-quality dry koshu wines flicker across the palate with a whiff of pomelo and yuzu that yields to powdery yeast notes laced in by a bracing acidity. When fermented on the skins, as in Château Mercian’s Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris, the wine’s nuanced minimalism takes on additional weight. Pink grapefruit and dried peach frame nutmeg and cedar shavings, and the mid-palate, padded with cotton flowers and rounding nearly into waxiness, retreats at the last instant to a refreshingly bitter close.

贝兰」，加上境内葡萄园面积迅速扩张，中国已逐渐在世界葡萄酒市场占有一席之地。与此同时，日本也悄然无声地在当代国际级葡萄培育技术上崭露头角。登美之丘、葛蕾丝酒庄及成立于 1877 年的 Château

Mercian 等顶级酒庄，均不约而同地力推日本古老品种甲州葡萄。而这种葡萄其实曾一度被认为是品质欠佳、糖分过多的品种。然而，这款葡萄实质低调朴素、天生丽质。优质的干型甲州葡萄酒款带有一缕柚香与柑橘香，在味蕾上若隐若现，随后酵母粉感质地袭来，与鲜活强劲的酸味紧密纠缠。若用甲州葡萄皮发酵制酒，如 Château Mercian 的灰之甲州白酒，则格外突显酒体的细腻和简约，粉红葡萄柚和风干杏桃带出肉豆蔻与雪松芯片香气，中段有如棉花铺陈，渐渐铺开成柔软、滑顺的口感，最后以清新微甘的滋味收尾。

Sarah Heller is a content creator, visual artist and wine expert and Asia’s youngest Master of Wine. Here, she visually expresses the character of Château Mercian’s Fuefuki Koshu Gris de Gris. Sarah Heller 是一位媒体创作人、视觉艺术家及葡萄酒专家，是亚洲最年轻的葡萄酒大师。她别出心裁地以艺术形式表达 Château Mercian的灰之甲州白酒。

INPSIRED LIVING

生命图腾

patterns of life The intricate details of a luxury tableware collection express the richness of a designer’s story.

MEXIC AN-BORN, Sydney-based lifestyle designer Lorena Gaxiola launched her eponymous upscale homewares collection in 2013, following decades of success in San Diego. Among her consistently vibrant offerings of bedding, rugs, and tableware is a dinnerware set named La Vida. Perhaps the range most obviously influenced by her Mexican heritage, its cups and plates are adorned with elaborate patterns that are rooted in the designer’s life experiences, past, present, and future. Gaxiola’s Mexican roots come through in the owl and the serpent motifs derived from the Aztec ritual calendar, her new life down under is interpreted in patterns inspired by indigenous Australian painting, and her future is portrayed in the water themes that have appeared throughout her interior architecture and homeware designs for decades. In a nod, says the designer, to an abundant spiritual life, water appears in the form of 24-karat gold hail. “People buy my pieces because they are conversation starters,” she explains. “In formal settings, my designs tend to be ice breakers – people try to make sense of all the artful details on what is usually just a dinner plate.” Each piece of the bespoke La Vida collection is handmade in limited quantities in a centuries-old factory in Limoges, France.

TK | land of agave

生活品味设计师 Lorena Gaxiola 生于墨西哥，现居悉尼，在圣地亚哥享有数十载功成名就。早于 2013 年，她便推出同名高档家居用品系

↑ La Vida Cup AUD115.00

列。在她一贯色彩鲜艳的寝具、地毯和餐具产品设计中，有一套名为生命 (La Vida)，这

La Vida Saucer AUD125.00

系列明显受到墨西哥传统文化的影响。杯盘上精美繁复的图饰设计是根源于她本身「过去」、「现今」和「未来」的人生经历。

Lorena 的「过去」便是墨西哥文化，以猫头鹰和阿兹特克祭祀日历中的蛇形图案为象征，「现今」则受到澳洲原住民绘画的启发，而「未来」展现在她数十年间以「水」为题的室内装潢及家饰设计中。设计师颔首道来，在丰沛的精神生活中，水会被想像成以二十四克拉金箔般的形式展现。她说：「在正式场合中，我的设计作品往往能达到破冰的作用，也就是在聚会伊始，人们尝试以餐具的个中美学细节来打开话题，纷纷谈论这些本来只是餐盘的作品。」

La Vida 生命系列每件订制作品，皆由有百年历史的法国利摩日工厂手工限量制作。

↓ La Vida Dinner Plate AUD150.00

→ La Vida Soup Bowl (pictured outside) AUD105.00 La Vida Salad/ Dessert Plate (pictured center) AUD140.00

land of agave

TK |

COURTESY OF LORENA GAXIOLA

DESIGN

炼金魔法

alchemy in yucatán An award-winning design transforms a nineteenth-century industrial building into a strikingly modern dining venue.

“OUR TASK WHEN WORKING on a new restaurant,” says noted

室内设计大师 Paulina Morán 说：「打造一家新

interior designer Paulina Morán, “is always to coordinate the interior scheme with the culinary experience.” Accordingly, a key part of the creative process in fashioning the perfect space for acclaimed restaurant Ixi’im was Morán’s ongoing consultation with its chef, Jorge Vallejo, founder of famed Quintonil Restaurant in Mexico City. Ixi’im, which means “corn” in the Mayan language, offers a contemporary menu built around the ancestral traditions of Mayan cuisine, with local organic produce coming from a farm on the property. Opened in the heart of Chocholá, Yucatán, in 2017, Ixi’im soon stepped into the international spotlight when it took home the 2018 Prix Versailles world architecture award in the restaurant category. To visit this award-winning restaurant is to travel back to the Mexico of the 1800s, when the building was part of the production facilities of a plantation growing henequen, a tough sisal fiber derived from a type of agave plant.

餐厅会遇到的最大挑战，肯定是如何糅合室内

TK | land of agave

设计与料理主题了。」因此，在打造佳评如潮的「Ixi’im」餐厅时，Paulina 与主厨，即墨西哥城鼎鼎大名的「Quintonil」餐厅创办人 Jorge Vallejo 不间断地沟通、讨论如何塑造餐厅内美妙的用餐空间，这是创意过程必不可少的关键步骤。「Ixi’im」在马雅语中有「玉米」之意，餐厅内主自家农场的有机产品。

2017 年，「Ixi’im」在尤卡坦州 Chocholá 市中心盛大开幕。随即，餐厅便在 2018 年以黑马之姿夺下餐厅类建筑凡尔赛奖，跃上国际舞台。走进餐厅，人们犹如穿越时空，重回 1800 年代的墨西哥，参观黄条龙舌兰纤维种植园，这种强韧的剑麻纤维便是来自这种龙舌兰植物。

KENNY VIESE (2), SOL TAMARGO

打加入现代巧思的马雅传统料理，食材更是来自

as containers. The upholstered furnishings are covered with fabric imported from Italy and customized by a nearby tapestry manufacturer. In further tribute to Mexican heritage, Ixi’im is home to what

TK | land of agave

Paulina 精心创造的综合式设计，让 Chablé Resort and Spa 健康中心内的招牌餐厅「Ixi’im」。她表成为当地文化与餐饮历史的华丽「代言人」示：「在开始设计前，我们会先全面研究当地文化。以『Ixi’im』为例，黄条龙舌兰种植业对餐厅所在地的文化产生了深远的影响。因此，我们试着保留当地建筑的工业特色，再设法融入尤卡坦地区的传统元素，例如磁砖地板、阔叶树以及工业机械等。」所有主要设计元素皆取自邻近地区，吧台更是由当地雕塑家 George Samuelson 以废弃卡车零件拼凑而成。尤卡坦厂商 Mosaicos La Peninsular 则负责提供地板磁砖，配合 Paulina 的特殊规格在传统设计上做微调，以融入餐厅内部的现代装潢。化妆室洗手台则由邻近的 Dzitya 镇工匠打造，使用单一颗当地石材配上镭射切割大理石勋章。「 Ixi’im 」内光滑明亮的花岗岩餐桌，由当地的手工研磨厂 Kanda 制造。主包厢的大灯则是当地工匠手工制作，黄金叶片和纯黑漆料覆盖其上，更悬挂 120 颗墨西哥葫芦，这常被风干制成传统容器。松软舒适的座椅则采用意大利进口布料，由当地刺绣业者客制化加工完成。为了对墨西哥传统致以更高的敬意，「Ixi’im」

KENNY VIESE (2)

Morán’s meticulously integrated design for Ixi’im, which is the signature restaurant of luxury wellness center Chablé Resort and Spa, is an exuberant celebration of the cultural and culinary history of the area. “Before we start any project, we conduct comprehensive research of the local culture,” she says. “In this case, the culture surrounding the manufacture of henequen is very ingrained in the area. We tried to preserve the industrial aspects of the building and combined that with traditional Yucatán elements, such as the tile floors, the hardwood, and the industrial machinery.” All of the major design elements were obtained from sources nearby, including the bar, which was made from salvaged truck machinery by local sculptor George Samuelson. The floor tiles were supplied by Yucatán manufacturer Mosaicos La Peninsular, handmade to Morán’s specifications and adapted from traditional designs to suit the more contemporary setting. The bathroom counter was formed from a single piece of quarried stone fitted with a laser-cut marble medallion custom-made by local artisans in the neighboring town of Dzitya. Ixi’im’s burnished granite tables were produced by Kanda, a local artisanal milling factory. The main saloon lamp was handcrafted by a team of local artisans. Dressed with gold leaf and black lacquer, it features 120 guajes , Mexican gourds that are traditionally dried and used

DESIGN

In further tribute to Mexican heritage, Ixi’im is home to what Guinness certifies as the world’s largest collection of tequila bottles. 为了对墨西哥传统致以更高的敬意，「Ixi’im」收藏了吉尼斯世界纪录史上最多的龙舌兰酒瓶。

Guinness certifies as the world’s largest collection of tequila bottles. To elevate their display to museum-level standards, the design team worked with a local blacksmith to create seventeen showcases with highly polished edging and gleaming glass shelves. The cases appear to float within the walls of the dining space, an effect achieved with red lights carefully concealed within the frames. The design’s finishing touch is an homage to traditional Mayan food preparation. “At the entrance to the restaurant,” says Morán “we placed a granite mirror featuring the image of a torch. It represents the alchemic influence that fire has on this unique style of food.”

收藏了吉尼斯世界纪录史上最多的龙舌兰酒瓶。为了将这些收藏升级成博物馆级展览，设计团队还与当地铁匠合作，打造十七座橱窗，每座的边缘都研磨至极致平滑，再搭配闪闪发光的玻璃支架。支架内含隐藏式红光灯，让橱窗乍看之下仿佛漂浮在餐厅墙中。整体设计的最后点缀则是向马雅传统烹饪「餐厅入口处放置了一方式致敬。Paulina 说：座模拟火把造型的花岗岩镜面，象征火焰在马雅料理中产生如炼金般的深远影响力。」

TEQUILA BAR

TK | LAND OF AGAVE

品味龙舌兰

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

TEQUILA BAR

JAY KHAN SMILES at the realization that COA, his award-winning Mexican-inspired craft cocktail bar, has nearly reached its first anniversary. You get the impression from the very outgoing and widely respected bar veteran that it’s been a year he has loved. That’s because Khan has quickly established a genuinely different presence on the competitive Hong Kong nightlife scene. COA is a spot that’s popular with everybody – locals, tourists, and expats – and the giveaway is when Khan boasts that “the guys from the Mexican consulate come here quite often as well as a big American, Argentinian, and Spanish crowd.” The bar’s look is deliberately simple: concrete, wood, and brick. “We wanted to bring that feel of Mexico City. You always think there’s tons of color in Mexican hospitality, but when you go to cool and trendy bars, they’re minimalist, and some customers tell us it looks just like we’re in Mexico.” Street art is also a big part of Oaxacan culture, hence the mural of Mayahuel, goddess of the agave plant, which Khan poses beside for a quick portrait. COA takes its name from the tool used to hand harvest the agave plant, which is used to produce mezcal, the spirit celebrated in many of Khan’s innovative libations. “The coa is a symbol of a craft passed down from father to son,” he explains. “They use it to shave the leaves off the agave and to cut the piña (or “pineapple,” so called for its resemblance to the fruit) out of the ground. You first cook the piña, then press out the juice. There’s so much labor and love involved in making mezcal. It’s not industrialized, it’s a beautiful artisanal process. The agave plant takes between six and ten years to mature – imagine harvesting wine grapes only once every six years!” Khan knows more than most about the process and culture behind the drink. “I’ve been to Mexico a lot of times and seen how the product is made. Mezcal is very small-batch and authentic, so to me it’s the most interesting spirit. Agave is also expressive of terroir, and that plays a big role in the flavor of the drinks. Most spirits are transformed by age, but agave is already flavorful.” “My idea from the beginning was to promote the agave category,” he says. “It was more a passion than a business. Selling agave drinks takes a bit of convincing, so we wanted to change the image of shots and partying, because there’s so much more to it. We’re keen to reintroduce these spirits,” he says, “so come, have fun, and enjoy them the way they’re meant to be enjoyed.” With more than two hundred varieties of agave, thirty to forty of which are used in the Mexican spirits, there’s a huge range for Khan’s imagination to explore. Here he presents four of his remarkable drinks.

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LA PALOMA DE OAXACA “A Paloma is a classic drink with grapefruit soda, lime, tequila, and salt, but in our case, we add mezcal and use worm salt, called sal de gusano . It’s the larvae of a moth that are dried and crushed into powder and added to regular salt and chili to give a very nice umami flavor. It looks like chili pepper and lends an earthy flavor that’s unique – refreshing and spicy, something you haven’t tasted before. It’s a build drink – we rim the chilled glass, add the hand-carved rectangular ice and the tequila, mezcal, and grapefruit soda. One of the best-selling drinks on our menu, it’s very good with the weather in Hong Kong.” 「经典鸡尾酒帕洛玛通常以葡萄柚苏打水、莱姆、龙舌兰酒及盐制成，但在，我们还会加入梅斯卡尔酒，及『COA』以蠹蛾幼虫干磨成粉，再加入盐和辣椒制成的虫盐，有种诱人的鲜味。这是有点像胡椒加上泥土的味道，清爽却又带点辣劲，保证是从没品尝过的滋味。这款调酒以直调法制作，冰杯杯缘抹盐，放入我们自制的方形冰块、龙舌兰酒、梅斯卡尔酒及葡萄柚苏打就大功告成。帕洛玛是店内最畅销的调酒，与香港当地的天气很配。」

TK | land of agave

TEQUILA BAR

HORCHATA DE PISTACHO: RICE, CINNAMON, PISTACHIO, TEQUILA REPOSADO, LEMON, SALT, WHE Y, BIT TERS, SWEE T POTATO DUST, PISTACHIO BISCUIT

香港墨西哥手工鸡尾酒酒吧「COA」屡获大奖肯定。在酒吧即将欢庆一周年之际，创办人 Jay Khan 脸上满是笑容。他为人活泼外向，在调酒界多年亦备受尊敬。从他的表情看来，过去这一年，想必他过得非常开心。

Jay 带领「COA」在香港竞争激烈的夜生活光景中杀出重围，在极短时间之内打造出风格截然不同、人气高踞的酒吧，消费族

“The horchata drink wasn’t invented in Mexico, it was brought there by the Spaniards. It’s made differently in Spain, but we represent Mexican culture, so our version is made with rice and flavored with cinnamon. Pistachio is not native, but it’s a personal touch. It’s tequila based – Tequila Ocho from blue agave is the first to have the vintage on the bottle, and every year it tastes a bit different. Then instead of egg white we add whey, which gives a nice silky texture. The accompanying biscuit is a by-product of making the horchata. We’re left with a paste that we bake into a biscuit, with butter, flour, and sugar. From a distance, roasting agave smells to me like sweet potato with caramel. Delicious.”

群庞大，其中包括本地人、游客及外派人士。「除了墨西哥领事馆的人 Jay 自豪不已地说：常来之外，还有为数众多的美国、阿根廷及西班牙客人。」酒吧的外观以混凝土、木头及砖头为主，「我们想让特意营造出简单的风格。Jay 称：人有置身墨西哥城的感觉，当地的风俗及景观总让人联想到五彩缤纷的颜色，但去过那些最时髦的酒吧的客人就知道，现在最流行的是极简风。有些客人说到『COA』就好像到了墨西哥一样。」街头艺术是墨西哥南部瓦哈卡市的著名城市风景之一，因此 Jay 也亲自选了一幅龙舌兰女神－玛雅赫尔 (Mayahuel)

「墨西哥并非 Horchata 的发源地，起初是由西班牙人引入的。这款酒与其在西班牙的做法有所不同，但『COA』以代表墨西

的肖像画挂在店外墙壁上。店名「COA」原意是用来挖出龙舌兰植

哥文化自居，我们的版本也是正宗墨西哥风格，即以白米调制，

株的工具，该植株会用以制成墨西哥代表性

加上肉桂增加风味。加入开心果则是我的个人创新，并非当地

的梅斯卡尔酒 (mezcal)，为店内多款创意作

作法。Horchata 的基酒是 Ocho 龙舌兰，以蓝色龙舌兰制成，每年味道都有细微差别，其酒厂也是最早依照产季推出年份瓶

品的基酒。Jay 接着进一步说明 coa 的用法：「coa 代表一种世代相传的手艺及工具，可以

装龙舌兰的大厂。另外，我们以乳清替代蛋白，从而营造更为

切断龙舌兰叶，也能把『凤梨』从土里翻出来。

细致柔滑的口感。酒杯上的开心果饼干则是制作 Horchata 的副

挖出来的『凤梨』煮过之后把汁压出制作梅

产品，剩下的混合物加入奶油、面粉及糖，放进烤箱烘烤即可。

斯卡尔酒，整个过程耗时耗力，其中也包含

Horchata 上桌后，远远就有炙烤龙舌兰时的焦味扑鼻而来。我

了酿酒人的爱。这过程一切纯人工，没有丝

觉着这味道就像焦糖甜薯，超级美味。」

毫经工业化加工。龙舌兰完全成熟需时六年到十年，想像一下葡萄每六年才采收一次会是怎样的景况。」（注：龙舌兰球根貌似凤梨，上文中以凤梨代称。）

Jay 对于梅斯卡尔酒的酿造过程及文化背景了若指掌。他说：「我去过墨西哥多次，看过酒是怎么做的。梅斯卡尔酒小批生产，非常纯正，这真的是我见过最有趣的一种酒。龙舌兰反映当地的风土，对酒的味道起到关键的作用。大部分的酒会越陈越香，但龙舌兰本身的味道就相当浓郁。」他强调：「一开始我的目标就是推广龙舌兰类的酒，与其说做生意，更像是热情使然。但是，进行龙舌兰调酒销售需要一点说服别人的功夫，我们想扭转只有喝子弹酒或狂欢时才会想到龙舌兰的印象，它还有很多值得探索的地方。我们想重新引荐这些酒，想邀大家一起来玩，用最地道的方式，享受这些酒原本的美味吧。」龙舌兰种类超过二百种，用于墨西哥酒中的大概有三四十种，可以让 Jay 尽情发挥想像力。他特地挑出四款别出心裁的调酒，于本文一一介绍。 land of agave

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COCONUT MILK PUNCH “Back in the 1700s, housewives would add milk to spirits and use citrus to curdle the batch. If the milk breaks down, it forms curds, and when you strain it, it comes out clear. Spirits were harsher then, so it’s not necessary to do that today. Instead of regular milk, we have a coconut milk liquor that curdles – it comes out completely clear but it’s soft and smooth on the edges with intense flavors inside. It’s not stirred or shaken, just poured directly on ice. The coconut taste comes out first, then aged rum, black tea, and a bit of tamarind aftertaste. We’re very proud of it – we add a touch of dry sherry to cut through the sweetness and add a nutty flavor.” 「十七世纪时，许多主妇习惯把牛奶加在酒里，再放入柑橘加速凝结，牛奶分离后产生凝乳，过滤后会变得相当清澈。那个时代酒很粗糙，现在，我们用椰奶取则完全不需要这么做。在『COA』代牛奶，可以达到同样凝结效果外，出来的成品还特别清莹，入口柔嫩滑顺，细细品尝则味道浓郁。无须搅拌或摇杯，直接倒到冰块上即可。客人先是尝到椰子的味道，接着是陈年兰姆、红茶，及些许罗望子后味，相当有层次。这款酒是我们的自信之作，加了干雪莉中和甜味，增添一丝坚果韵味。」

TEQUILA BAR

CAFFEINATED NEGRONI “This is like a negroni but darker, with a cube of ice and a piece of chocolate. We infuse the vermouth with coffee from Veracruz in Mexico – it’s an arabica that adds a touch of acidity to the cocktail. We also add gin like in a regular negroni, but it’s a beautiful claypotdistilled mezcal that gives a unique creamy mouthfeel. It’s simple looking but does the job and everyone loves it – even people who don’t like negronis!” 「这款酒和内格罗尼相似，但颜色更深，加了一大颗冰块及一片巧克力。苦艾酒里加了墨西哥南部大城维拉克鲁斯产的咖啡，形同阿拉比卡咖啡混入鸡尾酒一样，带来些许酸呛。我们也放了调内格罗尼不可或缺的琴酒，但入口后那独一无二的绵密口感则要归功于泥罐蒸馏出来的美味梅斯卡尔酒。这杯酒简单大方却赢得满堂彩，让每个人都爱不释手，连不爱内格罗尼的人都抵挡不住它的魅力。」

land of agave

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

one has to start with mezcal. Although tequila and mezcal are different by modern definition and now have distinct denominations of origin, historically, they’re the same. Tequila was once known as mezcal de tequila , which is to say, mezcal from Tequila, a small Mexican town near the city of Guadalajara in the state of Jalisco. In order to get deeper into the subject, I had the pleasure of traveling again to Jalisco, this time with TK publisher Mark Hammons and photographer David Hartung. We embarked on a busy ten-day quest to learn all about the history and production of the spirit, beginning with its essential ingredient. There are approximately two hundred species of the agave plant, and Mexico is home to around one hundred fifty, the greatest diversity of agave in the world. The Spanish called the plant maguey , a word they learned from the indigenous Taíno people of the 想了解龙舌兰酒， Caribbean, where Spanish explorers may first have encountered agaves. In most parts 必须先从梅斯卡尔酒着 of Mexico today, locals still refer to the spiny-tipped succulent as maguey. 手。虽然，现时龙舌兰酒 The indigenous people used agave for many purposes: food, shelter, needles, 和梅斯卡尔已是两种定义 textiles, paper, and pulque, a fermented beverage made from the sap of some of 的种类，而且各有所属的起 the larger plants. Mezcal, the name of the agave beverage produced by distilla源地，但在以前，这两款酒却 tion, is derived from the Nahuatl language of the Aztecs and means “cooked 是同一种存在。墨西哥哈利斯科 agave.” 州瓜达拉哈拉市附近，有一座名 During the seventeenth century, the distillation of mezcal was pro为「特其拉」的小镇，而龙舌兰酒 hibited by the colonial authorities, and most mezcal makers moved to 曾有「特其拉的梅斯卡尔酒」的别称。 remote sites. Distillation practices quickly spread northward to the 为了更深入了解此酒，我有幸与 mining centers, and, since the stills were made with local materials TK 创办人 Mark Hammons 和摄影师 David and were easily fashioned for small-scale production, their use Hartung 重游哈利斯科州。在十天紧凑的行 spread among the indigenous population in the south. 程中，我们探悉龙舌兰的历史发展和生产过程， Shortly after the prohibition was repealed, mezcal 从至关重要的原料 — 龙舌兰植物开始。 production resumed but was constantly taxed to gener龙舌兰植物大约有二百种，而墨西哥拥有世界 ate revenue for the crown. Mezcal producers in some 上最多的龙舌兰品种，约一百五十种。当年西班牙探 parts of what is now known as Jalisco avoided tax 险队发现这种植物，并从加勒比海原住民泰诺人那里听 collectors by renaming their product raicilla , mean闻 maguey 一词，于是开始称龙舌兰为 maguey。如今墨西 ing “small root,” and labeling it as a medicinal 哥大部分地区，当地人仍称这种带刺的多肉植物为 maguey。 remedy. As we traveled through Jalisco, we 原住民将龙舌兰物尽其用，运用于食物、家居、针具、纺 met Esteban Morales, owner of a modern织、纸张以及布尔盖制造业以特定的大型植物汁液制成的发酵饮 day brand of raicilla, who is a pioneer in 料。透过蒸馏制作的龙舌兰饮品称为「梅斯卡尔」，此词源自于阿兹 exporting the beverage internationally. 特克人的纳瓦特尔语，亦即「煮熟的龙舌兰」。十七世纪时，殖民者当局下令禁止蒸馏梅斯卡尔酒，于是大多数梅斯卡尔制造厂转移至偏远地区。蒸馏方法迅速地向北传播到采矿集中地，加之蒸馏器具可由当地材料制成且易于小规模生产，因此南方原住民也广为使用。禁令废除后不久，梅斯卡尔酒的制造开始复苏，却不断被征税，以利王室收入。哈利斯科州某些制造商为了逃税，曾将梅斯卡尔酒改名为「拉伊西亚酒」( 意译「小根」)，并将其标记为药物。我们在走访哈利斯科州时，遇到了现代版「拉伊西亚酒」的所有人 Esteban Morales，他也是饮品国际出口的先驱。

1785 年，西班牙国王查理三世再次下令禁止墨西哥当地所有发酵及蒸馏饮品的制造，以进口类似的西班牙产品。1795 年禁令解除不久后，José Maria Guadalupe de Cuervo，亦

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

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land of agave

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In 1785, Charles III of Spain once again began enforcing a ban on all local fermented and distilled beverages to encourage the importation of similar Spanish products. It was eventually lifted in 1795, and soon after, José Maria Guadalupe de Cuervo – the José Cuervo – was granted the first official license for the legal distillation of what became known as mezcal de Tequila. Following Mexican independence in 1821, the regime of President Porfirio Diaz, convinced that modernization was good for Mexico, encouraged the commercialization and industrialization of the mezcal industry, and distilleries began to concentrate near Tequila. The town’s subsequent dominance in production was the result of geographic good fortune, according to Clayton Szczech, founder of Experience Tequila, a tequila tour and education company. At one of the master classes he conducted earlier this year at COA, my agavespirits bar in Hong Kong, he explained that it had to do with the development of the railroads and with Tequila’s proximity to the city of Guadalajara and its direct rail connection to Mexico City, which was mushrooming by the early 1900s. In response to the growing demand for mezcal de Tequila and the completion of the railroad, a few powerful distillers started investing in technology that would increase production volume. Even before independence, hand-mashing of agaves had been replaced by the tahona, a large stone wheel turned by a donkey, horse, or mule. Traditionally in Tequila, agaves were cooked over a wood fire in underground pits, but by the 1890s, masonry ovens heated by steam boilers were in full swing. A few distillers even adopted column

TK | land of agave

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

land of agave

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TK | land of agave

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

land of agave

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

land of agave

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

TK | land of agave

称 José Cuervo，获得了首个合法蒸馏「特其拉的梅斯卡尔酒」的正式许可。

1821 年墨西哥独立之后，总统 Porfirio Diaz 所带领的政府坚信现代化对墨西哥的正面效益，并鼓励梅斯卡尔酒产业的商业化及工业化，于是蒸馏厂开始集中开设在特其拉小镇。龙舌兰酒的导览业者、「体验龙舌兰」创办人 Clayton Szczech 表示，特其拉小镇的绝佳地理位置赋予其在龙舌兰酒业的主导地位。他在上半年于香港龙舌兰酒吧「COA」举办的大师班中解释道，由于二十世纪初墨西哥城正值蓬勃发展时期，因此铁路的发展、邻近瓜达拉哈拉市、铁路直达墨西哥城等因素大大促使当地的成功发展。面对市场的需求增长以及铁路的竣工，少数具规模的蒸馏厂开始投资有利于增加产量的技术。在墨西哥独立之前，人工捣碎龙舌兰的制程就已由驴、马或骡子带动的大石轮「巨磨」所取代。特其拉镇的传统做法是将龙舌兰放在坑中的柴火上烹煮，但到了 1890 年代，厂商大规模地使用由蒸汽锅炉加热的砖石炉，一些蒸馏厂还采用了柱式蒸馏器，取代独立前西班牙殖民者在进行甘蔗蒸馏所引入的阿拉伯式蒸馏仪。现代普及的龙舌兰碾碎机则是到 1950 年代才开始使用。「特其拉的梅直至 1880 年代，斯卡尔酒」始以玻璃瓶取代木桶盛装，此一创举据说是由 Jesús Flores 领导的 Cuervo 蒸馏厂所推出。同时， land of agave

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stills, replacing the Arab-style stills that had been introduced by the Spanish colonists for sugarcane distillation before independence. The ubiquitous modern agave shredders did not come into use until the 1950s. By the 1880s, mezcal de Tequila was seen in glass bottles rather than barrels, an innovation believed to have been introduced by the Cuervo Distillery, led by Jesús Flores. Mezcal de Tequila, which came to be known simply as tequila during this period, began gaining international recognition in 1893 at the World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago. As demand for tequila grew, adulteration followed, and producers lobbied the government to act. In 1949, the first official quality standard was launched. The requirements were short and simple: tequila must be produced from 100 percent blue agave (Agave tequilana Weber var. azul) harvested in Jalisco and must be distilled in Jalisco. In 1964, because of an agave shortage caused in part by the explosive popularity of the margarita cocktail in the United States, the requirement for 100 percent blue agave was reduced to 70 percent, with 30 percent of the sugars coming from other sources. In 1968, added flavorings and colorings were allowed, and in the 1970s, the blue agave requirement was further reduced to 51 percent, creating a class of tequilas known as “mixto.” Tequila was awarded a denomination of origin – the first outside of Europe – in 1974. The DO standards listed only Jalisco and selected municipalities in the states of Nayarit, Michoacán, and Guanajuato until political pressure added a fifth state, Tamaulipas, in 1977. In 1994, The Consejo Regulador del Tequila (Tequila Regulatory Council) was created. A private nonprofit organization, the CRT is accredited as a verification unit and certification body to ensure the quality of tequila and to promote its culture. The CRT created two categories: “100 percent agave tequila” and “tequila.” The former is required to use sugar entirely from the blue agave plant and must be bottled in Mexico, but the latter can use up to 49 percent other sugars, including those sourced from corn, other grains, or even sugarcane, but not from other types of agaves.

也就是在那个时代，「特其拉的梅斯卡尔酒」也开始简称为「龙舌兰酒」，并于 1893 年在芝加哥举行的世界哥伦比亚博览会上打响国际知名度。随着市场对龙舌兰酒渐增的需求，掺假之事也随之而来，生产者于是游说政府采取行动。1949 年推出第一个官方品质衡量标准，其要求言简意赅：龙舌兰酒必须百分之一百以哈利斯科州所收成的蓝色龙舌兰来生产，且蒸馏过程也必须在该州完成。

1964 年，由于玛格丽特鸡尾酒在美国风靡一时，导致龙舌兰酒短缺，原先百分之一百的要求减至百分之七十，剩余百分之三十的成分则可取自其他来源。1968 年，调酒中允许添加调味剂和着色剂。1970 年代，蓝色龙舌兰占比的要求又降至百分之五十一，因此出现称为「混合」龙舌兰酒的类别。

1974 年，龙舌兰酒获原产地地名命名，这是首度以欧洲大陆以外的地名为酒品命名，正式的名单仅包含哈利斯科及纳亚里特州、米却肯州、瓜纳华托州内特定的城市名。

1977 年，因政治压力又增加第五个州 —— 塔毛利帕斯。 1994 年，民间非营利组织龙舌兰酒监管委员会（CRT）成立，公认为有利于龙舌兰酒的品质管控及其文化推广的检验及认证机构。CRT 设立两个类别「百分之一百纯龙舌兰酒」和「龙舌兰酒」，前者需要完全使用蓝色龙舌兰植物为原料，且必须在墨西哥装瓶，后者则可使用如玉米、其他谷物，甚至甘蔗等高达百分之四十九的非龙舌兰属植物的原料。

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

land of agave

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

BLUE AGAVE TAKES AN AVERAGE OF SIX TO EIGHT YEARS to fully mature, painfully slow compared to crops for other distilled spirits. The hand harvesting, a profession passed down from father to son, is performed by jimadores , who work in groups, arriving in the fields before sunrise and finishing just before sunset. One cold morning at five, we drive to one of the fields near Tequila to experience the process ourselves. The jimadores wear jeans and long-sleeved shirts to protect themselves more from the sharp leaves than from the cold at dawn or the heat later in the afternoon. Every jimador carries a tool known as a coa , a kind of machete with a round blade heavy and sharp enough to cut through

the thick leaves, which are usually left on the fields to decompose. We got a chance to talk to Jaime, a third-generation jimador. At age thirty-eight, he’s been working in the fields for twenty years. Jaime shared with us the fact that it takes a skilled worker a full day to harvest around a hundred agaves. He told us that they get paid based on how many kilos of agaves are harvested collectively and that the money – anywhere between two hundred and six hundred pesos (roughly HKD70 to HKD200) per person – is shared between them. The pay is also dependent on prevailing agave prices, which fluctuate with shortages and excesses in supply resulting in part from the long agave maturation cycle. Throughout the labor-intensive day, the jimadores take short breaks for breakfast and lunch. Some bring portable mini stoves to reheat their tortillas and cafe de olla , coffee flavored with cinnamon and unrefined piloncillo sugar. The harvested agaves are carried by donkey to a truck parked nearby. On an average day, Jaime and his crew harvest around a thousand agaves. It takes about seven kilos to make one liter of 100-percent-agave tequila. land of agave

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TEQUILA PRODUCTION

采收相较于其他蒸馏酒的原料，蓝色龙舌兰的熟成时间漫长，平均需要六到八年才能完全成熟。世袭的人工收成技术由 jima-

dores（龙舌兰采割者）分组进行，他们要在日出前抵达栽种地，在日落前完成采收。在一个寒冷的早晨，我们五点钟开车到特其拉镇附近的一个栽种地，亲身体验采收过程。

Jimadores 身穿牛仔裤和长袖衬衫并非为了晨间抗寒或午间防晒，而是为了避免被利叶刮伤。每个

jimador 都带有一把重而锋利的弯刀 ―coa，用来割下龙舌兰的厚叶，再将叶子放置于地上，让其自然分解。我们有机会与第三代 jimador、三十八岁的

Jaime 交谈。已在栽种地工作二十年的 Jaime 介绍

说，一名技术工人一整天可以采收约一百株龙舌兰，其酬劳取决于全体工人采收的总公斤数，分配后每人可得二百至六百比索（约合七十至二百港币），工资同时也取决于龙舌兰的市场价格，其漫长的熟成周期会影响供给的短缺或过剩，进而造成市场价格波动。在劳力密集的一天里，jimadores 会利用吃早餐和午餐的时间短暂休息，有些人携带可携式迷你炉子加热玉米饼，配上以肉桂和粗糖调制的咖啡。收成的龙舌兰由驴子运到停放在附近的卡车上。Jaime 和他的员工平均一天可收获大约一千株龙舌兰，而一升的百分之一百纯龙舌兰酒，需要大约七公斤的龙舌兰。

TK | land of agave

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

THE TRUCKS LOADED with agaves are driven to the distillery for the next step, cooking, or hydrolysis, which helps break down the complex sugars into simpler ones. Imagine eating a raw sweet potato versus a cooked one. The transformation of the sugars is what gives agave its distinctive flavor. The old method of cooking agaves over a wood fire in an underground pit is still followed by many producers of mezcal, hence its smoky character. But the high demand for tequila, and its requisite mass production, make such an artisanal cooking process, which can take four or five days to complete, infeasible. In recent years, however, a few tequila producers have begun making limited batches of tequila by the old method. We meet with Eduardo Orendain, a fourth-generation distiller who is currently producing his 100-percent-agave Tequila Arette. The Orendain family, one of the oldest names in the business, once produced its flagship brand of the same name at El Llano distillery, where Arette is now made, but has moved the production of Orendain to a bigger facility next door. Eduardo explains that agaves for Arette are cooked in a large specialized autoclave, a type of pressure cooker that is faster than most other traditional methods. After steaming for approximately eight hours, the agaves are rested for an additional five in the insulated heat. As succulent plants, agaves are extremely juicy once cooked, and before the round autoclave doors are opened, valves on the bottom release the steam and excess liquid. A few minutesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; walk from El Llano takes us to Fortaleza distillery. Although it was launched only in 2005, the family tequila-making tradition actually dates back a hundred and forty years. Guillermo Sauza is the greatgreat-grandson of Cenobio Sauza, who pioneered steam cooking in place of underground pit-roasting and is credited with exporting the first mezcal de Tequila to the United States. Tequila Fortaleza is known for doing things a little more traditionally. Agaves are steam-cooked in brick ovens, each holding up to fifteen tons, for approximately thirty-six hours. According to Guillermo, it takes about nine kilos of blue agave to make one liter of his 100-percent-agave tequila, considerably higher than the industry average. He noted that some large producers who employ diffusers, monstrous machines that extract the agave sugar before cooking it, reduce the agave required per liter to two to three kilos. Because much of the agave flavor is stripped out and must be reinforced with additives, tequilas produced this way are considered low quality by connoisseurs.

TK | land of agave

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

烹煮

装载龙舌兰的卡车开往蒸馏厂进行下一步骤 ― 烹煮或水解，这有助于解构复杂的碳水化合物并转化为可发酵糖类。想像一下吃生红薯和熟红薯的不同，就可以理解为何烹煮龙舌兰能使它别具风味。许多梅斯卡尔酒生产者仍在地坑的柴火上烹煮龙舌兰，以增添烟熏风味。但是，对龙舌兰酒的高市场需求，所以有大规模生产的必要，这种需费时四至五日的人工烹煮法显得不切实际。然而近年来，一些龙舌兰酒生产商却开始以手工烹煮的旧方法限量生产龙舌兰酒。我们与 Eduardo Orendain 会面，他是蒸馏厂第四代传承者，生产百分之百纯龙舌兰酒。 Orendain 家族是龙舌兰产业中历史最悠久的品牌之一，曾在现今生产 Arette 的 El Llano 蒸馏厂出产其同名旗舰品牌，如今 Orendain 的生产已搬至隔壁更大的厂房。Eduardo 解释道，Arette 龙舌兰是在大型专用高压灭菌器中烹饪的，此法比多数其他传统方法更快。先将龙舌兰气蒸约八小时，再保温静置五小时。龙舌兰是肉质植物，一旦煮熟后会释出很多水分，所以在圆形高压灭菌器门打开前，底部的阀门会先释放出蒸气和多余液体。从 El Llano 蒸馏厂步行几分钟即可到达 Fortaleza 蒸馏厂。虽然它在 2005 年才建立，但实际上家庭自产龙舌兰酒的传统可追溯至一百四十年前。Guillermo Sauza 是 Cenobio Sauza 的玄孙，Cenobio 是首位将特其拉梅斯卡尔酒出口至美国的人，更开创蒸气烹煮法来取代地坑柴烧法。

Fortaleza 龙舌兰酒以偏传统的制程闻名，以砖炉蒸煮龙舌兰约三十六小时，每个炉子最多可乘载十五吨。据 Guillermo 的介绍，用此传统法生产一升的百分之一百纯龙舌兰酒，约需九公斤的蓝色龙舌兰，高于业界一般的需求量。Guillermo 也指出一些大型生产商会采用扩散器，先萃取出龙舌兰汁后再烹煮，即可将每升所需的龙舌兰原料量减少到仅二至三公斤，但大部分龙舌兰风味已被剥离，必须另外加入风味剂，因此酒品鉴赏家公认此手法所生产的是劣质的龙舌兰酒。

land of agave

TK |

碾碎 CRUSHING IS THE PROCESS by which the aguamiel, or sweet juice, is extracted from the cooked agaves. As with cooking, crushing methods vary among producers. Two widely adopted ones are pressing with a tahona, a large stone wheel pulled by an animal or a tractor, and shredding with a roller mill. One producer, however, has his own unorthodox technique. We drive two hours east of Tequila toward Los Altos to meet with third-generation tequila maker Felipe Camarena, known as the “mad scientist.” Camarena makes a range of tequilas at his El Pandillo Distillery, including G4, his flagship brand named in honor of sons Luis and Allan, the fourth generation in the family tradition. Camarena’s extraction tools are known as Igor and Frankenstein. Igor is a small machine that shreds the agave by means of a fifteen-horsepower electric motor. Frankenstein is a mechanical tahona made with spare parts from Camarena’s junkyard. It rolls back and forth, powered by a second small electric motor. According to Felipe, this tahona is easier to clean and uses less energy, making G4 one of the most sustainably produced tequilas on the market.

TK | land of agave

碾碎是从煮熟的龙舌兰中萃取龙舌兰甜汁的过程。与烹煮步骤一样，碾碎方式因生产者而异，两个广泛采用的方式为以动物或拖拉机拉动巨磨来磨碎，或以辊磨机碾碎。而另一家酒厂拥有独创的非传统龙舌兰酒。我们从特其拉镇向东驱车两小时前往 Los Altos，与人称「疯狂科学家」的第三代龙舌兰酒制造商 Felipe Camarena 会面。他在 El Pandillo 蒸馏厂开创一系列龙舌兰酒，包括 G4，是为儿子 Luis 和 Allan 家传第四代命名的旗舰品牌。

Felipe 的萃取工具被称为 Igor 及 Frankenstein，Igor 是一台小型十五马力的电动碎龙舌兰机，

Frankenstein 是 Felipe 从弃置零件中自行组装的机械磨具，其前后磨动的动力来自第二个小型马达，

Felipe 说这款机械磨具更容易清洁且耗能更少，使 G4 成为市场上可永续生产的龙舌兰酒之一。

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

land of agave

TK |

TK | land of agave

land of agave

TK |

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

发酵 The transformation of the natural sugar to ethyl alcohol is one of the most important steps in developing the flavors of any liquor. In the mezcal world, most fermentation relies on natural yeasts picked up by the cooked agave after cooling and during the fermentation process itself. But most tequila producers use their own varieties of cultivated yeast, which offers more control of the fermentation process. While wild fermentation may seem more exciting by adding the terroir element to mezcal, each method has its pros and cons. Another difference among producers is in the material used for fermentation containers. Fortaleza, for example, employs wood, and El Llano, either stainless steel or concrete.

将天然糖分转化为乙醇是展现酒类风味最重要的步骤之一。以梅斯卡尔酒来说，大多数依赖于经煮熟、冷却、发酵的龙舌兰中捞起的天然酵母，但大多数龙舌兰酒生产者会使用自己培育的人工酵母，以控制发酵过程的稳定度。虽然野生发酵听起来更有趣，能在梅斯卡尔酒中反映当时的环境风土条件，但每种方法都皆有其优缺点。不同生产者使用的发酵容器在材质上也各异，例如

Fortaleza 蒸馏厂采用木质容器，而 El Llano 蒸馏厂则采用不锈钢或混凝土容器。

TK | land of agave

land of agave

TK |

TK | land of agave

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

DISTILLATION IS THE PROCESS by which the alcohol is extracted from fermented matter by means of temperature control. Since alcohol boils at 78.3°C and water at 100°C, during heating, the alcohol evaporates first and can be collected. Until recently, it was thought that the conquistadors brought the knowledge of distillation methods to Mexico in the 1500s. Based on their findings, however, some archaeologists and scholars are now debating the question of whether distillation was known before the Spanish set foot on what now is Mexico. In any case, the earliest documented reference to a distilled agave-based spirit in Mexico is by a Spanish cleric in 1619. Some archaeologists believe that distillation in Mexico may have originated near the Colima volcanoes with a style of still introduced by early Filipino settlers. It consists of a hollow tree trunk and two metal pans, one placed directly above the fire to hold the fermented liquid and the other, which contains cold running water, on top of the trunk. As the heated fermented liquid evaporated, it condensed upon touching the cold metal at the top and then dripped down into an agave leaf and slid through a bamboo pipe into a container. This primitive method is still used in some raicilla and mezcal production today. The first distillation in tequila production, known as ordinario , comes in at around 25 percent alcohol by volume (ABV). Minimum distillation is twice, the standard for most distilleries, but a few, such as Casa Noble, distill three times. The second round takes the level to about 55 percent ABV for most tequilas, but some, like Fortaleza at 46 percent, are lower. The second distillation comprises three parts: heads, heart, and tails. Some fraction of the heads and tails is removed to eliminate any compounds that might be toxic or unpleasant. Felipe Camarena notes that, because his methods produce such low methanol levels, he is the only distiller in the industry to use all the heads in his tequilas. The toxin is increased, he says, when distillers crush agaves with mills, breaking much of their fiber: “You’re destroying a certain amount of the cellulose, which raises the methanol.” Camarena averages 160 parts per million, while the law sets a limit of 300. “More than this,” he says, “is considered toxic.” land of agave

TK |

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

蒸馏蒸馏是透过温度控制自发酵物质中提取酒精的过程。由于酒精在摄氏七十八点三度时沸腾，水在摄氏一百度时沸腾，因此加热过程中，酒精先蒸发后便可进行收集。直到最近，人们都还是认为是殖民者在十六世纪将蒸馏法的知识带到墨西哥，但是考古的新发现使一些考古学家和学者开始辩论，墨西哥人是否在殖民者抵达前就掌握蒸馏法。无论如何，在墨西哥最早提到关于龙舌兰蒸馏酒的文献，是在 1619 年由一位西班牙牧师提供的。一些考古学家认为，墨西哥的蒸馏法可能起源于科利马火山附近，由早期的菲律宾移民者所引进。它由一个空心树干和两个金属平底锅组成，一个盛有发酵液体，直接放在火上方，另一个盛有冷水的则放在树干顶部。当加热的发酵液体开始蒸发时，蒸气接触到上方冷的金属锅底时会凝结，并滴落在龙舌兰叶上，再通过竹管滑入容器中。这种原始方法仍然应用于现今一些「小根酒」和梅斯卡尔酒的生产过程。第一次蒸馏出的龙舌兰酒，称为普通蒸馏，酒精浓度约二十五。标准的蒸馏厂会至少蒸馏两次，但是少数蒸馏厂如

Casa Noble 会蒸馏三次。大多数龙舌兰酒在第二次蒸馏后，酒精浓度可能约五十五，但是如 Fortaleza 则较低，仅四十六度。第二次蒸馏分为三部分，前部、中部、尾部，有些作法会将蒸馏液掐头去尾，以除去任何可能有毒或欠佳的物质。

Felipe 说他是业内唯一会保留蒸馏液前部的人。他解释，当蒸馏师用磨碾压龙舌兰时，释出的毒素增加。他说：「这样会造成一定量的纤维破坏，使甲醇含量增加。」他的龙舌兰酒平均甲醇含量是百万分之一百六十，而官方规定为三百以下，「只要超标，就视为有毒」。

land of agave

TK |

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

TEQUILAS, whether 100 percent blue agave or mixto, come in five labeled classes with varying degrees of aging: • Blanco (silver, plata, white, platinum)

•

tequilas are often completely unaged, considered by many to be tequila’s purest state, but they may be aged up to two months. Gold ( joven, oro) tequilas are typically inexpensive young mixtos containing added colors and flavors. Tequila reposado (“rested”) is aged between two and eleven months in storage tanks or oak barrels. Tequila añejo (“aged”) spends a minimum of one year in oak barrels that have a maximum capacity of 600 liters. Tequila extra añejo (“ultra aged”), the newest category, introduced in 2006, is aged for at least three years in oak barrels that have a maximum capacity of 600 liters.

We end our tour by driving from El Pandillo to La Alteña Distillery in Arandas, where we meet master distiller Carlos Camarena, brother of Felipe. Carlos, whose family is known for creative methods of tequila aging, tells us that his father was actually the first to produce extra añejo tequila – unofficially – in 1991. Aged for a minimum of three years, it was named El Tesoro de Don Felipe Muy Añejo in honor of Carlos’s grandfather. After only a year and a half, the Mexican government forced them to stop production, because, they said, the designation “muy añejo” did not exist under the law. More than a decade later, however, the category was finally acknowledged as “extra añejo.”

TK | land of agave

陈年无论是百分之百的纯龙舌兰酒还是混合酒，皆以五种不同等级标记陈年时间： • 银色龙舌兰酒通常是完全未经陈年的新酒，许多人认为是龙舌兰酒最纯净的状态，但它们也有可能会陈年两个月。 • 金色龙舌兰酒，是价格偏低的混和酒，添加了调色和调味剂。 • 微酿龙舌兰酒在橡木桶陈放时间介于两个月到一年之间。 • 陈酿龙舌兰酒在橡木桶陈放时间超过一年以上，橡木桶容量不超过六百升。 • 特级陈酿是 2006 年的新增等级，代表龙舌兰酒在橡木桶陈放时间超过三年以上，橡木桶容量不超过六百升。在结束旅程前，我们从 El Pandillo 蒸馏厂开往阿兰达斯的 La Alteña 蒸馏厂，在那里我们遇到 Felipe 的兄弟 ― 蒸馏大师 Carlos

Camarena。他的家族是以创新手法陈放龙舌兰酒闻名。他透露，其实早在 1991 年，他父亲是首位非正式生产特级陈酿龙舌兰酒的人，其所酿制的酒至少陈年三年，被命名为

El Tesoro de Don Felipe Muy Añejo，以纪念 Carlos 的祖父。而这款酒却在短短一年半后就被墨西哥当局下令停产，理由是根据当时法律，「额外陈年」的名称并不在规范中。然而十多年后，该分类最终得到认可定为特级陈酿等级。

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

TEQUILA PRODUCTION

TK | land of agave

land of agave

TK |

墨魂流传

INTERVIEW

Can you fill us in on how it all began with Don Cenobio 您能否说说当年 Don Cenobio Sauza Sauza? 是如何发迹的呢 ? 我的曾曾祖父，在 1850 年代来到 My great-great-grandfather, my tatarabuelo , got here in 此地，当年他只是个十六岁的男孩。那 the 1850s as a sixteen-year-old boy. He could do one thing 时能读书写字的人少之又少，他的读写 that a lot of people couldn’t do and that was read and write. 能力使他与众不同。其后，他前往庄园 So he went to work on a hacienda and learned how to 工作并学习制作龙舌兰酒。那时这里是 make tequila. There were maybe three thousand people in 个大概只有三千人的小镇，不过水源与 this town, but it had water and lumber. You needed oak for 木材不虞匮乏。大大的木桶需要橡木来 the vats and other woods that were around here to burn in 制作、锅炉里的蒸气则要用松木和其他 the boiler. He started his distillery in 1873. 的杂木当作燃料方能产生。就在 1873 年， He died in 1909, and by then he had over seventy 他踏上了酿酒之路。 thousand hectares and he’d bought seven haciendas, one 他在 1909 年过世时，已有七万公顷 for each of his children. One was my biasabuelo, or great以上的土地，坐拥七座庄园，分给他的七 grandfather. We still have the house that’s turned into the 个子嗣，其中一位便是我的曾祖父。那座 museum – if you get a chance, go by there tomorrow. 庄园中的房子至今都还保留着，转型成一 The house is right on the center plaza, and my great座博物馆，如果你们有时间，欢迎去看看。 grandfather and his six brothers and sisters were born 房子就矗立在中央广场，我的曾祖父和他的 there. 六个兄弟姐妹就在那儿出生。

What’s in the museum? We have a lot of cool stuff. My tatarabuelo started as a distributor for tequila. It was in barrels and big glass jars called damajuanas , and we have some in there. We have a lot of paintings of my ex-girlfriends that were used for the calendars for Tequila Sauza in the ’60s and ’70s. People would put out calendars, and there’s one that people were particularly fond of. We found her in Playboy – I don’t know if my grandfather knew, but they were just putting clothes on the centerfolds. And it showed a bottle of Sauza Conmemorativo at the bottom. Conmemorativo was John Wayne’s favorite drink, and we have letters from him in there. Conmemorativo was made here? Yes. It was made from agave, but they called it whiskey, because it didn’t matter then, there were no rules or regulations, we didn’t need any licenses. What was that saying? No badges. We don’t need no stinking badges.

博物馆里有什么呢 ? 有趣的东西可多了。我的曾曾祖父一开始负责分送龙舌兰酒。那时都会装在木桶或是称作 damajuanas 的大玻璃缸里运送，博物馆里就有这些古物。博物馆里还有一大堆以我前女友为主角，六零、七零年代 Tequila

Sauza 用来当作日历的图画。以前人们喜欢发行日历，其中有一份特别受欢迎。我们在《花花公子》杂志里找到它，天知道我祖父有没有发现，总之他们就用衣服把那张插页给盖住。那插页图的底部就放着一瓶 Sauza

Conmemorativo，那是 John Wayne 最爱的一款酒，我们还有他写给我们的信呢。

Conmemorativo 是在这里制作的吗 ? 没错，是用龙舌兰做的，但是他们称之为威士忌，因为当时并不是很讲究，也没有什么特定规则或惯例，要酿酒也不需要什么执照。那句台词是怎么说的 ?

我们不需要徽章。没错，我们才不需要那些臭徽章呢。

land of agave

TK |

INTERVIEW

可否说说您祖父的故事。他在 1950 年代买下这座酿酒厂。那时镇民都对他爱戴有加，因为他的钱都没有投资到国外，全数用作购买镇上的土地、修建房舍，可以说是取之社会用之社会，创造了很多工作机会。这座酿酒厂在他掌管下一直运作到 1968 年，因为生产效率实在太低、产品质量也每况愈下、石碾技术也太过缓慢而停止营运。

接着您就出现了 ? So what’s 酒厂就这么停运超过三十年。直到 2000 年，我决定让它重新活过来。 the story with 我那时也没仔细去研究这厂房，只知道锅炉还在、罐式蒸馏器还在、冷凝 your grandfather? 塔也都还在。 He bought this property in the 1950s. The town really loved him because he didn’t take his 这段空窗期酒厂有做任何运用吗 ? 农耕之类的 ? 是的，那时只用来耕种。我们后来开始整修，到 2005 年龙舌兰 money out of the country, he invested 酒开卖，那时有银色、微酿和陈酿款式，全都是以百分之百龙舌兰 everything right back here and he created so 制作。原本是打算用滚式碾压机造酒，效率较高，但是后来喝过 many jobs. He kept the distillery working until 石臼造出的酒。大伙就说：「我们改一下行销策略吧，只卖石臼 1968. It was too inefficient, the yields were crummy, 酒就好。」于是就这么决定了。 a very inefficient stone-crushing process. And then you came along? 这一切可以说都是从龙舌兰开始的吧。龙舌兰有两百五十种，事实上不是仙人掌的类 It was closed for more than thirty years, and in 2000, I 科。唯一与仙人掌的共同点就是都在晚上进行光合 decided to open it up. I didn’t know what I was getting into, but 作用。科利马火山是一座活火山，离本地约两百 the boiler was still here, and the pot stills were still here, and the 英里。龙舌兰仰赖的火山土就是得益于这座火 condensation towers were still here. 山。这种植物只要泡水过久就会生病，而火山土排水明显比一般土快得多。但龙舌兰又需 Was the property being used for farming, or what? 要非常多水灌溉，所以厂区后方有一条终 Farming, that’s all. We started fixing it up, and in 2005 we started sell年有水的河流。而那座蓄水的水坝，当初 ing tequila, making blanco, reposado, añejo, all 100 percent agave. We were 是城镇用来防洪的。我祖父盖了这水库 going to use a rolling machine for crushing so we could get a volume going, 也是为了把这个分水岭的水导引到厂区 but then we tasted what was coming out of the stone crusher and said, “Let’s 来。 change our business plan, let’s just make the stone-crushed one,” which we did.

And it all starts with the agave. 这附近似乎处处皆有酿酒厂。这里有大约二十七座酿酒 There’s two hundred fifty species, and it’s not part of the cactus family. The 厂，包括以前是我们的 Cuervo only thing cactus-like about it is that it does its photosynthesis at night. Colima 和 Sauza，还有 Arete 和 Don Mountain is still active as a volcano, it’s about two hundred miles from here, and Fulano 等等，邻近的就有四五 that’s what gives the volcanic soil that agave likes. You get diseases if it sits in water 座，也有一些小型的酒厂。 too long, and this volcanic soil obviously drains faster. It needs a lot of water, we have 我拿些微酿龙舌兰酒给 this year-round river running behind us. The dam, the reservoir was built to stop flooding 你们试试吧。我喜欢酒在木 in the town. My grandfather built it because we get all of the drainage off this watershed. 桶中熟成的滋味，但我也常

It seems like the whole area is full of distilleries. There are about twenty-seven here – Cuervo, Sauza, which we used to own, Arete, Don Fulano, there’s about four or five distilleries right over here, and a lot of small ones. Let’s get some reposado going for you guys. I like the taste that comes from the barrel – I like to say that it’s adulterated by the barrel. So the true tequila is blanco, and this is just changing the flavor. So back to the agaves. It’s a lot of work. We have to keep the weeds low, and fertilize throughout all of its life cycle. We also have to watch for pests. At harvest, we use what’s above the ground, not below, and it takes about two minutes each. The coa is about five pounds on one end, so it’s quite the workout. I’ve never seen an overweight full-time jimador – what we call a harvester. They’re just rock solid, because they do this all day. They have a quota of three tonnes a day, so they like going after the biggest ones, and we have to be out there and say, “No, take the ripest ones.”

TK | land of agave

说木桶给这些酒掺了一些杂质。所以想喝纯正的龙舌兰酒，还是要喝不陈年的，放进木桶熟成只是为了改变一下风味。

T h e c o a is a b o u t fiv e p o u n d s o n o n e e n d ,

so it ’s q u it e t h e w o r k o u t . I’v e n e v e r se en

a n o v e r w e ig h t fu ll -t im e jim a d o r – w h a t

w e c a ll a h a r v e st e r . T h e y ’r e ju st r o c k so lid ,b e c a u se t h e y d o t h is a ll d a y .

锄头一端可是有五磅重，实在非常费力。这也是为什么我从没见过过胖的全职jim a d o r ，也就是我们说的采收工。每天干这些粗活，个个可是身强体壮。

再跟我们说说龙舌兰的种植要点吧。这些可是非常繁重的工作。我们要常常确保杂草不长太高，也要不断施肥直到收割为止。害虫防治也是必须的。收割时我们只收长在土上的部分，一株大概要花两分钟。锄头一端可是有五磅重，实在非常费力。这也是为什么我从没见过过胖的全职 jimador，

How much tequila do you get from one agave? About ten bottles, because we’re particularly inefficient, but using what’s called a diffuser can yield twenty-five, twentyeight bottles, because they’re so efficient at cleaning all of the pulp off of the fiber.

也就是我们说的采收工。每天干这些粗活，个个可是身强体壮。他们每天都要达到三吨的采收量，所以最爱收割那些大株的，因此我们都要在一旁监督，随时提醒他们：「嘿，割最成熟的才对。」

一株龙舌兰能做多少龙舌兰酒呢 ? 大概十瓶，我们用的是比较没效率的做法，如果用先进的扩散器，可以增量到二十五、二十八瓶之多，因为这种机器实在太高效了，能把果肉从纤维上分离的干干净净。

其他酒厂的萃取效率较高吗 ? Other people are doing that? With diffusers it’s down to about three kilos of agave per liter, and we’re up over nine. It’s like crushing a grape – you’re crushing everything out of that grape, including what’s in the skin, versus just doing a foot crush. You can never really crush everything out of the grape by doing a foot stomp – it’s kind of similar.

用扩散器的话做一公升的酒只要三公斤的龙舌兰，我们的做法则要用到九公斤。就像榨葡萄汁一样，用机器压，能把葡萄汁的所有汁液榨得一干二净，葡萄皮也不例外；而用脚踩，就算再怎么用力跺，也不能榨出所有的果汁，龙舌兰也是一样的道理。

Like squeezing juice out of the seeds and all that bitter stuff? I’d say that that’s a very good analogy. It’s like making orange juice out of the rind. I’m not sure I want the rind in my juice. When you see red splotches, the agave is extrema madurez or extremely ripe, and that’s what we want. If you use a ripe product, your tequila’s going to taste better. We make our tequila just like my great-great-grandfather did. But the price of agave varies wildly. Four years ago it was down to about six hundred bucks US for fifteen tonnes to fill my oven up. Right now, it’s ten thousand dollars.

所以机器会连同籽还有那些带苦味的汁都一起榨出来 ? 你推论得对，这其实有点像用橘子皮榨橘子汁。你会想要你的果汁用皮榨成吗？你看看龙舌兰上的那些红斑点，这代表植株已经非常成熟了，我们要的就是这种状态。成熟的植株做出的酒，尝起来就是比较棒。我的做法与我曾曾祖父的做法如出一辙。但龙舌兰的价格可不

So has the price of tequila increased in proportion? No, all the big guys have put in diffusers. So, as they’ve increased the efficiency of the machinery to wash the crap out of the fibers, they can still claim 100 percent, but they can keep their price a lot lower. So, we’re battling the big guys, but it just doesn’t taste like this. It’s steam-cooked for over thirty hours. We use the old boiler, born in 1903, same year as my grandfather, who was born on one of the seven haciendas my tatarabuelo bought, Hacienda La Labor, about two hours from here by car, but in those days it was about nine hours on horseback. The boiler still works and it’s about a hundred and fourteen years old. Cooked agave is very sweet because of the fructans. You did taste the cooked agave?

同以往。四年前，六百美金的低价就能买到塞满我炉子的十五吨龙舌兰。现在一样的量可要花我一万美金。

We did.

LAND OF AGAVE | TK |

We’re turning the fructans to sugars by thermodynamic conversion of starches to sugars. Now we have to get them off there, you can see the miels, we do get about two thousand liters of miels for every oven load.

这么说来龙舌兰酒的价格也跟着水涨船高 ? 也不尽然。大公司都使用扩散器，可以把植物纤维洗到干净溜溜，又快又好。然而，他们一样可以对外宣称百分百纯龙舌兰制作，同时又把价格压得很低。我们

Liters of what? Liters of miels, of honeys – they come from the bottom of the oven as it’s cooking, and we save that and use it in the fermentation process too, because it’s sweet, the syrup of agave. Didn’t you guys walk through the factory? Yes, we did. So, we’re trying to get the pulp off the fiber and get rid of the fiber. The fiber has the same molecular composition as wood – what kind of alcohol do you make from wood? Methanol. So, we want to get the fiber out of the process. We were going to replace the stone, it was slightly too short, so I got one off the side of a mountain that was about 90 percent carved out, probably around 1900. We just had to have the last 10 percent done. We got it down here and chipped out the center piece for the axle, and it was still too heavy. So, we have it right out in front, and it’s actually a garden ornament. Too heavy to use? It was going to bust up the floor of the tahona. I always joke that it’s a garden ornament now and you can buy it for what I put into it, which was eight thousand dollars – but you have to pay the shipping. So, I told that one day and some lady says, “I’ll take it.” She’s like eighty years old from Arizona and she’s got this giant house and she says, “I really like it, I’ll take it.” So now I have to raise the price, because if somebody’s going to take it, I want them to pay good money. I told her it was a joke. We wash the fiber by hand, we put the water in to make a mash we call mosto . This is a system set up by my grandfather, and as you can taste, it makes fantastic tequila, it doesn’t burn, doesn’t affect you, because it’s very low in methanol.

就像小虾米对大鲸鱼一样，可是我必须说，我们这种方式造出来的酒真的没得比，我们可是扎扎实实地蒸了三十个小时以上。我们用的也是 1903 年制的老锅炉，这跟我那个在曾曾祖父买的七个庄园之一出生的祖父一样老。那座庄园叫做 Hacienda La Labor，离这里就两小时车程，不过以前可是得马不停蹄地骑九个小时。那个锅炉至今还能正常运作，它已有一百一十四岁的高龄了。煮过的龙舌兰释出果糖，尝起来非常香甜。你尝过了吧？

是的。果糖因为热能的关系，从淀粉类转换成糖类。现在则要把你看到的那些「miels」给清出来，每一炉都会产出约两千公升的。「miels」

两千公升的什么 ? 「miels」啊，就是你们说的糖蜜。随着蒸煮的过程，它会在炉底慢慢累积，我们把它收集起来，用来发酵。因为它非常甜，也称为龙舌兰糖浆。你们参观过工厂了吗？

参观过了。那你们应该有看到。过程就是把果肉与纤维分离，然后丢掉那些不要的纤维。龙舌兰纤维的分子结构与木头相同，那木头会用来做什么酒精呢？甲醇。所以才要把纤维都去除。原本要换掉那个压榨用的石头，因为它有点太短了，所以我从山边搬了一颗回来，其实新的这个已经完工约百分之九十，重达 1900 公斤。做完剩下的

No hangover? You get a hangover if you drink enough, but I can tell you now, if you drink water with each shot you’ll be standing all night long. Fermentation is three days in wood fermenters. There are a lot of faster ways to ferment and some of the companies have got fermentation down to eight hours, depending on what yeast they use and what chemicals they add. We like the slow method, again, because of the taste. Copper pot stills, everything we make comes through these two stills. It’s a two-pass system and the second pass, it’s 46 percent. We bottle at 40 percent, so we’re getting pretty close to what we bottle at. We store it in stainless steel, so it doesn’t pick up any color or taste, and then go to barrels for reposado and añejo. They’re used whiskey barrels, and that’s where the color is coming from in the reposado and that’s where the taste comes from. I’ve had very famous people, movie stars, come to me and ask if I would make a tequila for them, and I don’t make tequila for

TK | LAND OF AGAVE

百分之十就能取用了。我们把它中心挖空，准备放入轮轴，想不到挖了还是太重。最后只好放在酒厂前面的花园当作吉祥物。

重到不能用吗 ? 拿来用的话大概会把石臼下面的地板给砸出一个大洞。我常常开玩笑说那颗石头现在就是个装饰品，大家随时可以用我花费的价格买走它，我花了八千块在那石头上，不过运费可要自己出。我就一直这么挂在嘴边，直到有一天，一位女士对我说：「那我买了。」她大概有八十岁吧，从亚利桑那州来的，据说拥有一幢非常大的房子，她说：「我真的很喜欢，我买了。」所以现在我得把价格抬高一点了，万一真的有人突然要买，我也想卖个好价钱。后

INTERVIEW

anyone, all our tequila goes into our bottles and only our bottles. We’re still using the old bottle machine used in the ’30s and ’40s that we took out of a museum. People say, “You make everything out of those two small stills?” Well, when you walk back out you will see that they’re still working, they’re working twenty hours a day right now, so we’re running two shifts.

来我跟她说那是玩笑话她才罢休。我们会用手清洗分离出的纤维，把水加进去弄。成混合物，称作「mosto」这是我祖父自创的一套做法，

And you intend to stay small? The owner of a big brand comes every year, calls up our secretary and says, “I’d like to meet with Guillermo, so we can talk about the tequila business.” And it’s the same question every year – “Do you need any partners yet?” “No.” Two years ago he was sitting right here, he goes, “Don’t you want to go to the beach and retire and just live a nice life at the beach?” “No, I like my life.” “Don’t you need a partner in the museum, we can do something together.” “No, I like our museum the way it is, thank you very much.” But they’ve bought everything around us and we’re like the last of the Mohicans. Anyway, we’ve just got so much industry support. We don’t do any advertising, we don’t do any incentive pricing, we don’t do anything all those big guys do, and it’s just been word of mouth that’s gotten us out there.

你喝过我们的酒，就知道这可是绝佳的龙舌兰酒原料，它不可燃，也对人体无害，因为甲醇含量非常低。

喝了不会宿醉吗？喝太多还是会，不过要是配着水喝，一杯酒一杯水，我敢保证你喝整晚都还能站得直直的。发酵得在木制发酵槽里，耗时三天。有很多方法能加快速度，有些酒厂能压到八小时内，得看是用什么酵母菌、加什么化学物质。我们喜欢慢慢来，一样

What’s the production, or is that public? Twelve thousand cases last year, it’s just a tiny little distillery. We’re not trying to keep too many secrets, but we don’t let other distillery owners come in here. They all want to come in here.

是因为口味的差异。还有铜制罐式蒸馏器，我们所有产品都得经过这两座罐子。经过双重的蒸馏程序，能让第二次出来的成品浓度达 46%。等到降至 40% 时装瓶，可以看出之间的落差不大。

这些新鲜的成品会放到不锈钢容器里保 Oh really? 存，以免被其他气味或色泽污染，如果要做 They want to copy us, we’ve been very successful. We had Brand 成微酿或是陈酿，才会再移到木桶里。这些木 X copy us. A friend calls me up one night and says. “Hey, I have some 桶是原本用来装威士忌的木桶，微酿龙舌兰酒 tickets for a Santana concert here in Guadalajara,” and I go, “Great, 的色泽与香气就是由此而来。 that sounds good. Who else is going?” “The general manager of 曾有些名人、电影明星来我这，要我为他们 Brand X is going, blah, blah” – like eight friends, ten friends. 特制一瓶龙舌兰酒。我必须声明我所有的酒都只 I had a driver, he drops me off at the parking lot, I go look能装进我们自家的酒瓶里。装瓶机器也是从博物馆 ing for them. So, I find him and they go, “Hey, let’s break out the 搬出来的三零年代、四零年代的老骨董。 tequila.” This guy’s like six-foot-three, a sales rep for the biggest 大家总问：「你这些产品都是从那两座小小的蒸 distributor in the US. And then I think, “Oh my God, I hope he 馏器做出来的？」如果你往后走出去看看，可以看 didn’t bring my tequila, because the f**king general manager for 到蒸馏器仍在运作，一天要运作二十小时，因此工 Brand X is here and they do two million cases a year. Anyway, 人也会轮两班看顾。 so first we drank a bottle of Tapatío, and I’m like, “Oh good, it wasn’t my tequila.” Then he goes back and I’m thinking, “Oh s**t, I hope he doesn’t bring out one of mine.” He brings out a Fortaleza 您是刻意维持小本经营的吗？某家大品牌公司每年都会到访，一来就找我们 Blanco, and I go, “F**k, this is it now.” They pour it and the rep 的秘书，嚷嚷着：「我要见 Guillermo，我们可以谈 goes, “Jesus Christ this is good – who makes this s**t? This is really 谈龙舌兰酒事业。」每次他的问题都一样：「你需不 good s**t.” Nine months later Brand X brings out a line to copy us. 需要一位合作伙伴？」我回：「还是免了吧。」两

But, how can they produce the volume – they’re not using the same method? No, they use a stone crusher and they pick it up in buckets and move it to the fermentation vats. We wash ours in the tahona, get the pulp off – we don’t want the fiber. They ferment with the fiber, the bagasse . Then they have roller mills, which is where you get volume, and they mix up the two results together, maybe it’s 5 or 10 percent tahona-crushed, but it is 100 percent agave. They’ve got like fifteen of these stone crushers, and then of course they have the roller mills where you can’t see them. It’s enormous, it’s like being in a giant warehouse.

年前，他就坐在那个位子上。他说：「你难道不想找个沙滩，好好的退休度过快活的余生吗？」我回：「不想，我喜欢我现在的生活。」他又问：「那博物馆呢？我们可以一起做些大事。」我还是回：「请回吧，我很喜欢博物馆现在的样子，不过还是感谢您的建议。」那家公司买下我们附近的所有动产与不动产，我们犹如最后的莫西干人。总之，我们就只有这些资源。我们不打广告、也不做特价，大公司做的我们都不做，一路走来靠的只有口耳相传的好口碑。 land of agave

TK |

INTERVIEW

t h e r e ’s m e w it h m y a b u e lo o n t h is p r o p e r t y in 19 67 – Iw a s 12 y e a r s o ld – a n d I’m fo r t u n a t e t o w a lk in

h is fo o t st e p s. N o t a lo t o f p e o p le g e t t o w a lk in t h e

fo o t st e p s o f t h e ir a b u e lo ,b isa b u e lo ,t a t a r a b u e lo .

无论如何，19 67年，我与我祖父就站在这里，当时十二岁的我有幸能跟随他的脚步迈进。不是每个人都有机会，能一路跟着祖父、曾祖父还有曾曾祖父的脚步。

您们的产量如何？是商业机密吗？去年有十二万箱，我们就只是一家小小的酒厂。其实也没什么好机密的，只有一点不能妥协，其他酒厂老板禁止进入厂内。他

It’s not going to taste the same as this, right? I see him about two or three years later and he says, “I have to ask you, do you ferment with your fiber or not, because we can’t match your s**t.” Those were his words. His first release was sixty thousand cases and that was like four or five years ago, and they still haven’t sold them all. He walks into a bar in California – a bunch of my friends have told me this – and goes, “Hey, it’s a really nice tequila, try it,” and the bartender says, “Thanks, it’s all right, but we already have Fortaleza.” They’re trying to match it, and I’m sure they’ll match us one day. Anyway, there’s me with my abuelo on this property in 1967 – I was 12 years old – and I’m fortunate to walk in his footsteps. Not a lot of people get to walk in the footsteps of their abuelo, bisabuelo, tatarabuelo. It’s a very special place, this area. The Indians were living here when the conquistadors came. It’s such a fertile valley and it’s never too cold, never too hot. We invite you to come down during Día de Los Muertos. We have a great tour, we do events, and it’s actually one of the times I enjoy the most, because we go to the cemetery too. We have a costume party in the caves and I work the bar. We have the bats that I was telling you about and the only tequila made in a bat cave. Everybody decorates their tombs. The tomb of my family, my tatarabuelo, is here, my bisabuelo is here, my grandfather’s here too. Once a year, it’s a tradition, something amazing to do, and we hang out there and we have some shots there. When we’re done, we don’t leave too much for the spirits, but we leave them a little bit.

TK | land of agave

们总想进来看看。

当真？他们想抄袭我们的作法，毕竟我们还算是满成功的企业。例如某大牌就一心想如法炮制我们的产品。某晚一位友人打给我说：「我有瓜达拉哈拉本地的 Santana 演唱会券，你要来吗？」我说：「太棒了，当然要。还有谁要去吗？」他说：「那品牌的总经理也会来，还有谁谁谁 ...」总共八个还是十个朋友吧。我的司机放我在停车场下车，我走进去找他们。找到后，他们就说：「我们来开

想必尝起来一定跟您的不一样吧？

几瓶龙舌兰酒吧。」这家伙大概一百九十公

两三年后我遇到那位总经理，他说：「我

分高，是北美区最大的经销代表。我当时

一定要问问你，你们是连纤维都放进去发酵

心想：「天啊，希望我朋友没带我们家的酒

吗？因为我怎么做都做不出你们的味道。」他

来，毕竟那品牌的总经理就在这，而且他们

真的一字不漏地说了这些话。他们第一次推

的年产量可是有两百万箱。」总之，我们先

出是在四、五年前，那次产量约六万箱，到

「太棒了，不是尝了几瓶 Tapatío，我又想：

现在都还没卖完。我听我朋友说，有一次那

我们家的酒。」然后我朋友突然起身又去拿

总经理走进一家加州酒吧，对酒保说：「试试

酒，我心想：「这下惨了，他不会要去拿我们家的酒吧。」他果然就拿了一瓶 Fortaleza 「该死，该来的还是要来。」 Blanco，我想：

我这款龙舌兰酒吧，很不错喔，」然后酒保说；」「谢谢，不过我们这里有 Fortaleza 就够了。他们很努力想要跟我们并驾齐驱，我也

酒从瓶口倒出，经销代表说：「我的老天爷，

知道他们总有一天会做到。无论如何， 1967 年，

这酒真是惊为天人，这是哪一家做的酒啊，

我与我祖父就站在这里，当时十二岁的我有

简直太棒了！」九个月后，那品牌就推出了

幸能跟随他的脚步迈进。不是每个人都有机

跟我们一样的产品线。

会，能一路跟着祖父、曾祖父还有曾曾祖父的脚步。

可是他们怎么有办法做出一样的酒精浓度，总不可能用完全相同的做法吧？确实没有，他们用石头碾压以后，捡到

这片区域非常特别。当年征服者到来时，印地安人就居住在此。这座山谷土壤肥沃，气候冷热适宜。欢迎你们亡灵节时再来一趟，

小桶子里再放到大发酵桶去发酵。我们则是

那时候有各式旅游景点和精彩活动，是我个

直接在石臼里面洗涤，收集果肉，去掉纤维。

人最爱的节日，因为我们也会去公墓欢庆一

他们的发酵过程也是连纤维，也就是龙舌兰

番。洞窟里会举行变装派对，我负责吧台部

渣，一起发酵。他们也用滚式碾压机，负责

分。到时可以看到我跟你提过的授粉蝙蝠，

产出酒精浓度，最后再把两边的成品加在一

还可尝尝蝙蝠洞里独一无二的龙舌兰酒。大

起，虽然只有百分之五到十是用石臼碾压出

家都会盛大装饰家族坟墓。我曾曾祖父、曾

来的，却仍然可以宣称百分百龙舌兰制造。

祖父还有祖父的坟墓也都在这。这项传统每

他们的石臼大概有十五座吧，滚式碾压机当

年一次，是一项非常棒的活动，大家到那谈

然是不会让你看到的。总之就是非常大，像

天说地、把酒言欢。活动结束后，我们也不

一间超巨大谷仓。

会给先人留下太多酒，就留一点点。

PRESENTED BY LOS SOTANO

墨西哥之魂

raising spirits Los Sotano offers food and drink to wake the living and the dead.

Stigibeu: Del Maguey Vida mezcal, Ancho Reyes chili liqueur, house pineapple tepache, house cinnamon spice syrup, and Bittermens Xocolati Mole bitters, garnished with sal de gusano, or worm salt. Del Maguey Vida 梅斯卡尔酒、Ancho Reyes 辣椒利口酒、自制凤梨特帕切酒，自制肉桂糖浆、Bittermens Xocolati Mole 苦酒，佐以虫盐

TK | land of agave

wild tobalá , accounts for roughly 85 percent of the mezcal produced today. While the commercial success of tequila has brought stainless steel autoclaves, motorized conveyor belts, and modern roller mills to its distilleries, mezcal largely remains an artisanal product produced in small family-run distilleries known as palenques . Kariakin considers the hours spent bouncing along rugged dirt roads well worth the effort to reach remote villages where fifth-generation palenqueros still

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

ROB KARIAKIN HOLDS UP a shot glass of Quiquiriqui mezcal and solemnly intones a Zapotec toast: “Stigibeu!” He may not have first traced out a cross on the ground with mezcal from a terra-cotta cup, an old tradition in the highlands of the Mexican state of Oaxaca, but he does go on to explain the meaning: “It’s more than just ‘cheers’ – it’s a combination of ‘to your health,’ ‘to mother earth,’ and ‘to the spirits around us.’” This last salute strikes a particularly resonant chord in the dimly lit surroundings of Los Sotano. The subterranean bar is lined with murals of stylized skeletons spraypainted by a trio of renowned Miami graffiti artists, and it features a wall of bronze skulls paying tribute to the indigenous Mexican calavera art motif that celebrates them as symbols of death. Kariakin, Los Sotano’s head mixologist, has recently returned from a pilgrimage to Oaxaca, the unofficial birthplace of mezcal, to learn more about the distinctively smokyflavored agave distillate that is gaining rapidly on the more widely recognized tequila. Technically, in fact, tequila can be considered a type of mezcal. The denomination of origin for tequila requires that it be produced within one of five Mexican states and be made from blue agave, whereas mezcal can be produced in any of nine states from more than thirty different varieties of agave. Oaxaca, with climate and topography that foster a rich diversity in agave plants, from cultivated espadín to super-rare and

Rob Kariakin, acclaimed as one of LA’s top mixologists, now takes his place behind the bar at Los Sotano. 洛杉矶知名调酒师 Rob Kariakin 现为「Los Sotano」首席调酒师

PRESENTED BY LOS SOTANO

Patrón X Tomahawk: a 48-ounce USDA Prime tomahawk marinated in Patrón Silver and grilled to order 龙舌兰酒X战斧牛排：现烤以Patrón龙舌兰酒腌制的四十八盎司美国顶级战斧牛排

TK | land of agave

Rob Kariakin 举起一杯 Quiquiriqui 梅斯卡尔酒，庄重地用萨波特克语敬了一声：「Stigibeu ！」虽然他没有依照墨西哥南部瓦哈卡市的古老传统─先用杯中的酒在地上划出一个十字，但他接着解释道：「这不只是单纯的『干杯』，还结合了『敬健康、大地之母、精神灵魂』的隐意。」此次的致敬，与「Los Sotano」幽暗的环境产生和谐的共鸣，地下酒吧和座位区墙上装裱着由三位知名迈阿密涂鸦艺术家绘画的骷髅头喷漆画，还有一面青铜头骨墙面，展现了墨西哥当地视死亡为生命礼赞的亡灵文化。「Los Sotano」首席调酒师 Rob 最近刚从瓦哈卡 ─ 梅斯卡尔酒的非正式原产地朝圣回来，探究这种由烟熏龙舌兰蒸馏制成，并在龙舌兰酒中迅速窜红的梅斯卡尔酒。理论上，龙舌兰酒是梅斯卡尔酒的一种，按要求龙舌兰酒仅能在墨西哥的特定的五个州内生产，且须由蓝色龙舌兰制成，而梅斯卡尔酒则在特定的九个州内生产，并由三十多种不同品种的龙舌兰制成。瓦哈卡当地气候和地形有助于培养龙舌兰植物多样性，从植栽的 espadín 到极其稀有的野生 tobalá 都有，约占当今梅斯卡尔酒产量的 85%。虽然龙舌兰酒的销售成功促进了酿酒厂中不锈钢高压灭菌器、电动传送带和现代化辊磨机的普及，但梅斯卡尔酒仍然是由手工制成，产自小型家庭式酿酒厂。

Rob 认为十分值得花上数小时沿着崎岖的泥土路跋山涉水到偏远村庄，走访仍然遵循流传数百年技术、经营至第五代的家庭式酿酒厂。龙舌兰心在衬有石头的坑中慢火烟熏数天或数周，再用马力石轮或大木槌手工压碎，最后再放入露天大桶中自然发酵。他提到：「俗话说『含水的梅斯卡尔酒不是梅斯卡尔酒』。」就是这种坚持，酒庄才会以蒸馏来证明纯度并保证永远不会掺「由于不想酒被任何一滴水稀释，因此在装瓶前，他们甚至会用水。Rob 称：梅斯卡尔酒冲洗新瓶子。」这趟研究之旅让 Rob 有机会理解到商品背后的制程脉络，如此第一手的产品知识对酒吧十分重要。「Los Sotano」打造一个精心设计的酒室，收藏过

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

follow centuries-old techniques. Piñas , or agave hearts, are slow-roasted in stonelined, earth-covered pits for days or weeks before they’re crushed with horsepowered stone wheels called tahonas or by hand with large wooden mallets called battes . The resulting mosto is then naturally fermented in open-air vats. “They have a saying,” says Kariakin: “‘Mezcal con agua no es mezcal.’” The words express the purists’ belief that mezcal should be distilled to proof and never cut with water. “In these palenques,” he adds, “they traditionally rinsed new bottles in mezcal before filling them because they didn’t want a single drop of water to dilute it.” His research trips have given Kariakin the opportunity to learn the stories behind the labels. Such firsthand product knowledge is critical at a bar like Los Sotano, which boasts a carefully curated library of over a hundred different tequilas and mezcals, some exclusively imported. “I really emphasize to the staff that narrative sells,” says Kariakin. “If you’re recommending Siete Leguas to a customer, it doesn’t

Forbidden Fruit: Szechuan chili-infused Casamigos Blanco tequila, apple, house cinnamon spice syrup, pineapple, Scrappy’s Firewater Tincture bitters 渍有花椒的 Casamigos 白龙舌兰酒、苹果、自制肉桂糖浆、凤梨、 Scrappy’s Firewater Tincture 苦酒

Lobster Drunk on Tequila: street taco of Avión-marinated lobster, guacamole, and black-garlic sour cream atop a fresh corn tortilla 龙舌兰醉龙虾： Avión 腌龙虾、酪梨酱和黑蒜酸奶酱佐新鲜玉米饼

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY LOS SOTANO

mean anything to just say that they use the best ingredients. You might instead describe its peppery finish and then talk about how this is the distillery that produced the original Patrón for John Paul DeJoria when he launched the brand.” He applies a similar philosophy to the cocktail menu, where descriptions always specify the spirits used. “It’s so strange to me when I go into a nice cocktail bar and read a list of ingredients that just says ‘reposado’ or ‘gin.’ Which one? There can be a world of difference in flavor and value.” To encourage guests to appreciate and explore the range of tequilas and mezcals on offer, Kariakin works closely with head chef Abel Ortiz A in crafting a tequila-forward menu of upscale Mexican dishes. The collaboration goes both ways: Kariakin has tasted all of Ortiz’s dishes in order to add tequila-pairing suggestions to the grill menu, and Ortiz draws inspiration from Kariakin’s cocktails and favorite tequilas in creating new dishes. “I designed all the food to complement and elevate the flavors you find in tequila,” says Ortiz, who excels at taking authentic Mexican flavors and adding a premium twist. For example, he marinates a shucked lobster tail in Avión tequila chili syrup for a day, allowing the flavors to infuse the meat before grilling it and serving it atop a fresh corn tortilla with dollops of fresh guacamole and black-garlic sour cream. Los Sotano cofounder Jordon Moss recommends pairing the dish with newly arrived Avión Reserva 44 Extra Añejo tequila. Drawing on his years of experience in charge of sauces and stews at world-ranked Peruvian restaurant Central, Ortiz serves a whole barramundi with slow-cooked Vera Cruz sauce of chunky tomatoes, peppers, garlic, and capers. Kariakin pairs the dish with the green vegetal flavors of Mezcal Amarás Cupreata. Another old saying goes, “Tequila is to wake the living, mezcal is to wake the dead.” At Los Sotano, both apply magnificently.

Head chef Abel Ortiz A

百种不同的龙舌兰酒和梅斯卡尔酒，有的甚至是独家进口。Rob 说：「我向员工强调故事行销的重要性，例如向客户推荐 Siete Leguas 时，不仅要介绍它的成分有多优越，亦需同时描述其辛辣口感，并细说该酿酒厂在 John Paul DeJoria 创立其品牌时，特别」酿制 Patrón 龙舌兰酒的过程。重视精神价值的理念也运用在调酒单中。他说：「当我进入一间高级调酒吧，见到那些只单单提到龙舌兰酒或琴酒等名称的酒单时，我不禁存疑到底差别在哪？可见口感形容和背后的价值传递会对酒品印象产生极大差异。」为鼓励客人品尝并探索一系列龙舌兰酒和梅斯卡尔酒，Rob 与主厨 Abel Ortiz A 密切合作，设计出搭配龙舌兰酒的高级墨西哥料理。Rob 品尝所有 Abel 的烧烤菜式，以提供餐酒的搭配建议，Abel 则从 Rob 的调酒及喜爱的龙舌兰酒中汲取灵感，创造出新菜式。「我设计主厨 Abel 擅长运用墨西哥的道地风味并改良出更上乘的菜式。他说：的所有菜式皆可充分衬托并升华龙舌兰酒的味道。」他将去壳的龙虾尾放于 Avión 龙舌兰酒辣椒糖浆中腌制一日，使其入味后再烹烤，搭配新鲜的玉米饼、酪梨酱和黑蒜酸奶酱。「Los Sotano」共同创办人 Jordon Moss 推荐这道料理搭配新引进的 Avión Reserva 44 Extra Añejo 龙舌兰酒一同享用。凭借多年来在世界知名的秘鲁餐厅「Central」中烹调酱汁和炖菜的丰富经验， Abel 将整条澳洲鲈鱼淋上由番茄粒、辣椒、大蒜和酸豆慢炖而成的维拉克鲁斯酱。 Rob 将这道料理搭配具有鲜蔬风味的 Amarás Cupreata 梅斯卡尔酒。「龙舌兰酒是为了唤醒生命，「Los Sotano」的经营方式，一再应证了一句老话：梅斯卡尔酒则是为了唤醒亡者。」 land of agave

TK |

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

奢华经典味觉升华

sumptuous style SW Steakhouse at Wynn Palace Cotai delivers Macau’s ultimate steak and seafood experience.

EVERY CHEF CAN RECALL one special person or experience that inspired their culinary dreams. For Burton Yi, Executive Chef at SW Steakhouse, it was his grandmother. “She was amazing in the kitchen and she taught me how to cook,” he says. “I loved spending time with her, helping out, just peeling vegetables and learning. When she passed, I realized how much I wanted to follow her passion.” While studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Los Angeles, Chef Yi began working for Wolfgang Puck’s catering company, where he helped cater the Oscars every year. Soon he was asked to join Spago, Puck’s signature restaurant. “It was only supposed to be short-term,” says Yi, “but I just kept working my way up.” In the years that followed, he continued under the famous chef, helping to launch several concept restaurants across the United States and eventually one in Singapore. In 2017, he joined Wynn Palace Cotai. “My food philosophy is all about great products that are in season,” he says. “If you start with something substandard, the finished plate can’t be good, no matter how hard you try. Cooking seasonally is a major factor in getting any dish just right.”

回首踏上烹饪之旅的契机，每个大厨都有一位启蒙老师，或一场难忘的体验。对于「永利扒房」行政总厨叶宝桐来说，这个特别人物是他的祖母。他回忆道：「祖母手艺极佳，是她教会我做菜。我喜欢在她身边帮忙，剥着菜叶学习。直到她离开，我才意识到我多想承继她对烹饪的热情。」叶宝桐于洛杉矶蓝带国际学院硏读时便开始為名厨 Wolfgang

Puck 的餐飮集团工作，每年协助准备奥斯卡颁奖典礼的餐点，没多久便被挖角到 Wolfgang 的旗艦餐廳「Spago」一展所长。他表示：「原本只是短期的工作，但我把握机会往上爬。」几年的时间，他成为 Wolfgang 的得力助手，在美国多处设立全新概念性餐厅，还包括一间位于新加坡的海外分店。

USDA Prime Steak Tartare USDA牛肉鞑靼

谷饲干式熟成T骨牛扒及精选配菜

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

→ Grain-Fed Dry-Aged Porterhouse Steak with a Selection of Sides

land of agave

TK |

Executive Chef Burton Yi 行政总厨叶宝桐

At SW Steakhouse, Yi has the luxury of working with only the finest cuts of meat and the freshest seafood presented in the most elegant of surroundings. “We’re a classic American steakhouse, with great food, great cocktails, great service and a stunning environment,” he says. “Steakhouses were traditionally where you’d go to impress someone, make deals, or celebrate special occasions. SW takes all of that to the next level – it’s an indulgent homage to old-style Vegas.” Yi largely credits the uniform excellence of the restaurant’s cuisine to the availability of outstanding products. “I’m really fortunate to work for a company that lets me source the very best,” he says. “We feature A5 wagyu from Japan, USDA prime beef, Black

TK | land of agave

Inspired by cult classics like Dawn of the Dead and The Walking Dead, SW’s mixologists take on a timeless tiki-bar classic with brio. Using añejo aged rum and reserve calvados as a base, they combine tropical hints of citrus, pineapple, and white peach with black peppercorns and a reduction of fresh pomegranate juice.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Angus from Australia, grass-fed beef from Spain – and the list goes on. There are no restrictions on what I can get my hands on, the top cuts of beef from all over the world.” And if meat isn’t a diner’s thing, there are plenty of premium seafood choices too. “We have our pick of seafood coming in from all over the world three times a week, along with exceptional shellfish from Australia.” Although Chef Yi has been in the business for years, he still considers his parents his biggest motivators. “They’re the ones who made the sacrifice to leave their families and move from Korea to the States to give us more opportunities,” he says. “They went in search of something more, something better, and that’s what I find myself doing now, whether it’s developing an interesting new dish or searching for an unusual product. They wanted to see what was out there, and I’m the same way.” That adventurous approach is also evident in the remarkably imaginative cocktail menu at SW Steakhouse. Mixologists at Wynn Palace Cotai have designed a selection that goes way beyond the ho-hum old fashioned or martini.

Dawn of the Walking: Tropical Caribbean 破晓红霞：洋溢加勒比风情

调酒师以恐怖片经典《活死人黎明》及《行尸走肉》为灵感来源，改造「tiki」异国风情酒吧代表性的经典鸡尾酒。以añejo 陈年朗姆酒及珍藏版苹果白兰地为基酒，再加入柑橘、凤梨、白桃等热带元素，佐以黑胡椒碎，还搭配新鲜的石榴汁。

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

→ SW Negroni (aged 6 weeks) 永利扒房内格罗尼 (六周陈放) In 1919, so it goes, when Count Camillo Negroni wanted more kick to his Americano, soda was replaced with gin, and the rest is history. In SW’s simply delicious take, classic London dry gin provides leading notes of juniper and citrus, Campari lends its grassy bitterness, and rouge vermouth smoothes it all together. 1919年，内格罗尼伯爵要求调酒师以琴酒代替鸡尾酒「美国佬」中的苏打水，内格罗尼调酒因此诞生。经调酒师巧手调制，经典的伦敦干杜松子酒带来充满杜松和柑橘味的主调，金巴利酒带来了草的苦味，而胭脂苦艾酒则将它们融为一体。

2017 年，他加入永利皇宫路氹。他强调：「使用当季最佳食材就是我的料理哲学，若食材的品质欠佳，不管中间多努力，最终成品也一定让人失望。依据时令做菜正是料理好吃的不二法门。」来到环境优雅的「永利扒房」，总厨手边尽是品质无可挑剔的肉类及上乘的海鲜。他自豪表示：「我们餐厅是道地的美式扒房，有美食、美酒、最棒的服务及环境。一般而言，扒房是初次见面、商务洽谈，或庆祝特殊活动时的首选。『永利扒房』让此一体验更上一层楼，也向传统拉斯维加斯風格致敬。」总厨把餐厅能稳定供应高品质的餐点归功于各种绝佳食材。他称：「很幸运能在此工作，让我得以料理从各地空运来澳的最好食材，包括日本 A5 和牛、美国 USDA 顶级牛肉、澳洲黑安格斯牛及西班牙草饲牛等等，应有尽有。世界各地最高级的牛肉随我运用。」如果客人不是为了吃肉而来，餐厅也有多种顶级海鲜任君挑选。总厨表示：「我们一周三次严选、采购来自世界各地的海鲜，如澳洲进口、品质无懈可击的甲壳贝类。」总厨从业多年，闯出一片天，依然认为父母是自己最大的动力来源。他指出：「他们作出牺牲，离开韩国来到美国，就是为了给孩子创造更多的机会。终其一生，他们从没停止寻求更多、更好的可能性，和我现在所做的事情，比如开发一道好玩的新菜或找寻特殊的食材等不谋而合。当时，他们不断探头看外面有什么新的机会；现时，我也同样。」总厨冒险探索的精神也反映在餐厅天马行空的创意鸡尾酒单上。除了常见的马天尼等经典调酒，永利皇宫路氹的调酒师精心设计的一系列橡木桶陈放及艺尝鸡尾酒，绝对超乎想像。 land of agave

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调酒学传奇

mythical mixology In its creative new cocktail lineup, Vida Rica Bar makes legend and lore part of the mix.

Law of the Jungle 魔幻森林

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JACOB SHTEYNTSAYG’S CAREER has taken him around the world. “Working in Russia taught me about spirits,” says the resident mixologist of Vida Rica Bar at Mandarin Oriental, Macau. “Israel’s very guest-forward bartending style taught me how to host. Italy was all about understanding the ingredients.” The Russian native grew up in St. Petersburg and began working at the age of sixteen in his hometown. He went on to a position in Tel Aviv and then moved to Piedmont in Italy to earn a master of gastronomy degree. He arrived in Macau this summer to take up his current post at Vida Rica Bar. With so much roaming under his belt, it’s no wonder that Shteyntsayg has come up with an inventive selection of cocktails that take an international storytelling approach.

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Jacob Shteyntsayg

Jacob Shteyntsayg 的职业让他有幸借工作环游世界。这位澳门文华东方酒店「御苑酒廊」的驻店调酒师说：「俄罗斯让我懂得烈酒；以色列的调酒风格以顾客为尊，我学到招待宾客的技巧；意大利则十分注重食材。」身为俄罗斯人的他在圣彼得堡长大，十六岁开始在家乡工作，后来到特拉维夫担任调酒师，再搬到意大利皮埃蒙特，获得美食学硕士学位。今年夏天，他来到澳门「御苑酒廊」，Jacob 凭借丰富的游历经验得以荟萃世界各地的精彩故事，调制出一系列精彩新颖的鸡尾酒。酒单上共十一款酒，款款均讲述着独一无二的传奇故事，其中十款与亚洲国家或地区有关，另一款则向澳门的葡萄牙殖民文化与历史致敬。十一款调酒不多不少，恰如其分地呼应了文华东方酒店刚好十一折的折扇标志。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

其中一款鸡尾酒航海巨人以《卢济塔尼亚人之歌》命名，这是一首由著名葡萄牙诗人贾梅士 1572 年于澳门完成的伟大史诗，颂赞十五、十六世纪葡萄牙航海事业的丰功伟绩。此款鸡尾酒盛装在迷你玻璃瓶里，述说

Birds of Prey 天狗

着水手们从葡萄牙向东航行的勇敢事迹。 land of agave

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

City of Dragons 龙之城

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Each of the menu’s eleven drinks interprets a different legend, ten from Asian countries and territories and, in a nod to Macau’s colonial heritage, one that’s Portuguese. The total of eleven neatly echoes the number of folds in the fan of Mandarin Oriental’s distinctive logo. Shteyntsayg’s delicious concoction named Giant of the Seas is based on Os Lusíadas , an epic poem written in Macau in 1572 by famed Portuguese poet Luís Vaz de Camões to celebrate the nation’s voyages of discovery in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries. Served in a miniature glass bottle, the drink tells the story of sailors traveling from Portugal to the East. “The cocktail inside is like muddy water at sea,” he explains. “It’s smoked with cinnamon to give it a ‘storm’ effect.” Ginger milk provides “Chinese influence,” and rich complexity comes in the form of Amarula Cream Liqueur from South Africa, an addition that reflects the voyage of Camões’s sailors around the Cape of Good Hope. City of Dragons, a twist on the mai tai, represents Hong Kong and takes its cue from ancient urban legends of the fearsome creatures stalking the city’s hills. “We added Chinese elements,” says Shteyntsayg, by starting with a congee-like base of rice syrup and adding chili liqueur and lime. The drink, served in a cup shaped like a “dragon egg” and decorated with the beast’s red and green colors, arrives dramatically spewing fire. The Law of the Jungle cocktail references Mowgli, the central character in Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book ,

Eyes on the Horizon 望夫石

as well as the work’s exotic Indian setting. It features ingredients from the subcontinent that include clarified milk punch, mango juice, lemon, cardamom bitters, saffron, and Batavia arrack, a sugarcane-based distillate produced in India and Southeast Asia. “It’s basically unfiltered rum,” says Shteyntsayg, “very strong, very flavorsome. It’s hard to take on its own, but in a cocktail it does amazing things.” The drink is fittingly served in a ceramic cup shaped like an elephant’s trunk.

他解释道：「瓶内的调酒就像混浊的海水，经过肉桂熏香，制造出『暴风雨』的效果。」姜汁撞奶体现出中国文化的影响，醇厚繁复的口感则来自南非爱玛乐奶油酒，象征贾梅士笔下的水手经过南非好望角的航程。龙之城则是迈泰的进阶版，引用香港的一个传说：据说很久以前，有一条令人生畏的大龙盘踞在香港的山「我们融入丘上。Jacob 说：了中国的元素。」这款酒先以粥一般浓稠的米糖浆为基底，再加入辣椒利口酒与莱姆酒，最后用「龙蛋」造型的酒杯盛装，装饰以龙身的红绿色，张口喷出火焰，戏剧张力十足。魔幻森林鸡尾酒的灵感来自拉迪亚特 • 吉卜林所著《丛林故事》的主角毛克利，以及故事里充满异国情调的印度场景。调酒的材料全部来自印度次大陆，包括透明牛奶宾治、芒果汁、柠檬、小豆蔻苦精、番红花，以及产自印度和东南亚、以甘蔗为基底的蒸馏酒 — 巴达维亚「这基本亚力酒。Jacob 说：上是未过滤的兰姆酒，非常强劲、风味浓郁，单独喝往往难以入口，但若用在调酒里就会发挥很神奇的效果。」这款酒用一只象鼻形状的陶杯盛装，可谓相得益彰。 land of agave

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PRESENTED BY METADESIGN

经典再现

revisiting a classic Brickhouse bar is reacquainting Hong Kong with the world’s biggest name in tequila.

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说起 Jose Cuervo，许多人会想到在棕榈树荫下，享受配有伞饰的夏威夷玛格丽特调酒的阳光假期。事实上，Jose Cuervo 旗下的 Especial 龙舌兰酒香甜顺喉且质感柔滑，是调配出各式各样鸡尾酒的好拍档。

Jose Cuervo 的系列经升级后更受到广大品酒人士的喜爱。品牌已拥有两百多年的经验和技术，更历经十代经营与创新的传承。到目前为止，Jose Cuervo 仍由经营拉丁美洲最古老的 La Rojeña 蒸馏厂的 Cuervo 家族成员配制。它的卓越品质和精致度使其广为大众所识，尤其在现今的香港，更是爱酒之人的宠儿。香港 Maximal Concepts 集团餐饮经理 Nick 「Jose Cuervo 系列产品因其多样性而与 Hargrave 说：众不同，消费者都能从中各取所需。」香港墨西哥餐厅「Brickhouse」调酒师 Lok Gurung 对此表示赞同：「 Jose Cuervo 的 Tradicional 系列是餐厅招牌酒，包括 1800 Tequila、Platino、以及优质的 Reserva de la Familia 等不同选择，以满足不同需求的客人。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

TO MANY, JOSE CUERVO may be known best for sunny holidays of umbrellagarnished Hawaiian margaritas under shady palms. And, indeed, the sweeter profile and smooth, soft finish of the brand’s Especial tequilas make them ideal for casual mixed drinks. But Jose Cuervo’s full range ascends to levels that have made them growing favorites among the most discerning of drinkers. The brand, after all, has been distilling tequilas for more than two hundred years, passing down their experience and skills through ten generations. Today their premium labels are still made by a member of the Cuervo family in Tequila, Jalisco, at La Rojeña Distillery, the oldest in Latin America. Jose Cuervo is a name increasingly recognized for finely crafted spirits attuned to the tastes of connoisseurs, and nowhere more so than in the Hong Kong of 2019. “The diversity in Jose Cuervo’s range is what really makes it stand out from others,” says Nick Hargrave, group beverage manager for Hong Kong’s Maximal Concepts. “There’s something for everyone.” Lok Gurung, mixologist at the city’s latenight Mexican restaurant and bar Brickhouse, concurs: “Here alone, we carry Jose Cuervo’s Tradicional range for our house pour, 1800 Tequila, Platino, and, of course,

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Taco Platter pairing with Brickhouse Margarita

Dos Mole Pollo pairing with Brickhouse Paloma

墨西哥卷饼配玛格丽特

墨西哥辣朱古力酱烤鸡配帕洛玛

ultra-premium Reserva de la Familia. This offers our customers a great deal of variety to meet every preference. “My favorite,” adds Lok, “is Jose Cuervo Platino. The extra step of recapturing steam from the distillation process to enhance flavor really produces a greattasting tequila. And I personally like the 1800 Silver for shots and serve it regularly at Brickhouse. It’s very smooth and suits this purpose well.” So what’s the best way for newbies as well as confirmed tequila lovers to get reacquainted with Jose Cuervo? “I’d start with any of their 100 percent agaves,” says Lok. “You’ll experience tequila in its purest form. Also try one of our phenomenal tequila-forward cocktails made with 100 percent agave varieties – either our Paloma or the Brickhouse Margarita. For that we use Jose Cuervo Tradicional Reposado as the base and add a little pineapple juice and agave nectar for a unique sweetness that balances out the fresh lime juice.” Adds Nick, “If you want to know more about tequila, our bar staff regularly engage with customers to educate them on the quality of these amazing premium labels. Once customers taste them and discover what they offer, they always come back for more!”

Jose Cuervo 系列产品中，Lok 的最爱是 Platino ：「重覆蒸馏的额外步骤为这款酒带来更多风味，使它口感更佳。而我个人喜欢以 1800 Silver 作为子弹酒，并放在『Brickhouse』的酒单上。它口感顺滑，作为子弹酒最好不过了。」那么该如何让龙舌兰新手及爱好者重新认识 Jose 「建议从百分之百的纯龙舌兰酒 Cuervo? Lok 表示：开始，先体验它的纯粹。也可以品尝我们用百分之百龙舌兰品种制作的龙舌兰调酒 – 像是我们的帕洛玛或『Brickhouse』玛格丽特。我们使用 Jose Cuervo Tradicional Reposado 作为调酒基底，添加一点凤梨汁和龙舌兰蜜，以独特的甜味平衡新鲜莱姆汁的酸度。」「若想要进一步了解龙舌兰酒，我们 Nick 补充：的调酒师会与客人交流，介绍这些世界知名品牌的酒单和品质。当客人品尝过不同酒款，感受過每款酒的独特风格后，必定会因此着迷！」 land of agave

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墨港特快车

the mexicali-hong kong express How a taco king and a cocktail maven teamed up to rush Mexico’s vibrant flavors to an eagerly waiting Hong Kong.

PRESENTED BY 11 WESTSIDE

Bang Bang Look for Cimarrón tequila, Lustau dry amontillado sherry, kumquat, and the flavor of Earl Grey tea in this unique drink, named for a Dr. Dre song. It’s a take on the margarita, with nods to Eun’s LA upbringing and his Hong Kong base in the form of kumquat and homemade Earl Grey syrup. 这款混搭 Cimarrón 龙舌兰酒、Lustau 干型阿蒙蒂亚雪莉酒、柑橘和格雷伯爵茶的独特调酒，以 Dr. Dre 的歌命名。原型为玛格丽特，添加柑橘和自制格雷伯爵糖浆，向 Daniel 的洛杉矶成长背景和现居地香港致敬。

Oyster taco 生蚝塔可

The chef was “playing around” at his taqueria when he stumbled on the combination of oyster with a roasted-jalapeño, “bastardized” version of beurre blanc sauce and onions and cilantro wrapped inside a handmade corn tortilla. “It’s crunchy, and all the juices are ready to burst out as soon as you take a bite.” Esdras 在餐厅「边玩边试」，用生蚝、烤墨西哥辣椒、「非正宗」的白奶油酱、洋葱、香菜随意组合，包在手工玉

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

米饼中。他说：「一口咬下，口感香脆，浓郁的汤汁就在口中迸发。」

“WHEN I THINK ABOUT 11 WESTSIDE,” says Esdras Ochoa, “I think about Hong Kong and all the experiences I’ve had here. It’s surreal. It’s one of the biggest adventures I’ve ever had.” Over a year ago, the chef, who’s been lauded by food critics as the “LA Taco King,” transplanted from Los Angeles to Hong Kong to launch his Mexican restaurant and bar in buzzing Kennedy Town. But neither he nor cofounder and beverage director Daniel Eun could have anticipated the kind of reception that 11 Westside would receive. “I don’t think we understood how hyped-up our restaurant was,” Eun says. “It’s great when you’re the hot new restaurant in town, but, very honestly, we weren’t ready. The time cycle is so fast here.” Initially, the partners had geared toward opening a casual watering hole with Mexican bites. “When we opened, it was very apparent that the public expected us to be a restaurant. So we retooled in that direction.” Today, it’s a sixty-forty split at 11 Westside: the food takes center stage, but the drinks have more than their fair share of fans too. It’s essentially a taqueria delivering the fresh flavors of Mexicali to this hemisphere, although “a lot of our drinking customers come to eat and also happen to throw down a bottle or two of tequila,” Eun says. The cocktail menu features tequilas and margaritas aplenty, and the opening last year of The Wilshire, a hush-hush back room behind the restaurant and bar, also draws in the drinking crowds. Ochoa and Eun, who met at a Korean barbecue in Los

Esdras Ochoa

被各大食评誉为「洛杉矶塔可王」的「一想到『11 名厨 Esdras Ochoa 说：

Westside』，我就想到香港，还有我在这里的所有经历。这像是一场梦，也是我人生中最重大的冒险之一。」一年多前，Esdras 从洛杉矶移居香港，在车水马龙的坚尼地城创立了他的墨西哥餐厅与酒吧。当时他本人以及共同创办人兼餐饮部总监 Daniel Eun 都没料想到「11 Westside」会掀起这样一股墨西哥旋风。「那时我们不知会 Daniel 表示：引起狂热。跻身为城中热话固然很棒，但老实说，我们根本还没准备好，赶不上这里的步调。」在开设初期，餐厅的经营方向是休闲酒馆配上墨西哥小吃。他说：「但开张后，顾客们都希望我们转型为餐厅，于是我们才重新调整方向。」时至今日，「11 Westside」呈现食 land of agave

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Moment of Clarity Inspired by Eun’s love of hip-hop music, most of 11 Westside’s cocktails are named after West Coast rappers. This drink, named for a track by New York artist Jay-Z, is made with tequila, clarified grapefruit juice, and a dash of saline. A spin on the paloma, it’s a clear drink that mimics the look of a martini but is garnished with grapefruit. 基于 Daniel 对嘻哈音乐的喜爱，「11 Westside」的大部分调酒都以美国西岸的饶舌歌手命名。这款调酒则是纽约歌手 Jay-Z 的一首单曲名称，以龙舌兰酒、纯葡萄柚汁和少许盐水制成，算是帕洛玛的改版，澄清质地如马天尼，杯口以葡萄柚点缀。

物、饮品六四分的局面，虽然美食肩负大任，饮品却也获得超乎比例的粉丝。墨西哥快餐店的任务就是将新鲜的墨西卡利滋味带到每「许多喜欢喝酒的顾张餐桌，Daniel 补充说：客来这里吃一餐，几瓶龙舌兰酒也跟着下肚。」调酒酒单内含多款的龙舌兰酒和玛格丽特，而去年新开的「The Wilshire」酒吧是隐藏在餐厅和吧台后的私密空间，同样吸引了广大爱酒之人。

Esdras 和 Daniel 均在美国拥有出色的餐饮从业经历，他们在洛杉矶的一家韩式烤肉餐厅相识。「洛杉矶塔可王」Esdras 出生于墨西哥城，在墨西卡利和卡莱克西科两座跨越美墨边境的城市成长，后来搬到洛杉矶就学，十年前还经营一辆塔可餐车。

Angeles, both have illustrious hospitality backgrounds in the US. The Taco King, who was born in Mexico City and grew up between Mexicali and Calexico, cities that straddle the US-Mexican border, moved to Los Angeles for school and opened a taco truck there a decade ago. His food, offering the authentic flavors of his native northern Mexico, was a huge hit – no small achievement in taco-obsessed LA. He went on to open Mexicali Taco & Co., followed by Salazar four years later. Still serving up northern Mexican fare alongside grilled meats and California cocktails, he found enormous success with Salazar and, in 2017, was convinced by Jon Chan of Hong Kong shisha bar Boba Bear to open a venture in the city. Last year, he appeared on Netflix’s The Final Table , a culinary competition between elite chefs from around the world, and this year he opened Sancho’s, a Mexican restaurant in Mumbai. Eun, a professional mixologist and LA native, got his big start in 2008 at legendary New York speakeasy Please Don’t Tell, although it was almost by accident. He was working frequent shifts at the bar when one day, as he recalls, founder Jim Meehan looked at him and said, “Well, I guess you’re our head bartender.” Since then, he’s worked at some of the finest bars on both US coasts, including The Normandie Club in Los Angeles. Staying true to authentic flavors, 11 Westside has not tried to cater to the local palate. “I think we have an upper hand when it comes to the restaurant game here,” Ochoa says, “because the whole experience is very unique. When it comes to the food, we create and serve a specific flavor. So when people think about Mexican food, if they like our style, they’ll crave it, like, ‘man, I want carne asada taco or corn tortilla.’”

TK | land of agave

Esdras 的美食完整重现了道地的北墨西哥风味，引起不少人的追捧，这在嗜「塔可」如命的洛杉矶可是非常惊人的成就。后来他，四年后又接连开了「Mexicali Taco & Co.」，这两家店都是以烤肉和加又开了「Salazar」州调酒点缀的北墨美食餐厅，「Salazar」更是一举打响他的名号。之后在 2017 年，他被香港水烟吧「Boba Bear」老板 Jon Chan 说服，到这个城市来闯一片天。去年 Netflix 推出烹饪比赛节目《国际名厨争霸赛》邀请各路精英主厨到场参赛，其中就包括 Esdras。今年，他又在孟买开了一。家墨西哥餐厅「Sancho’s」专业调酒师 Daniel 在洛杉矶土生土长， 2008 年意外从纽约的传奇地下酒吧「Please Don’t Tell」打出知名度。回想当时，他一如往常地在酒吧工作，老板 Jim Meehan 突然看了他一眼说：「我想你就来当我们的调酒领班吧。」那时起，Daniel 便开始于美国东西岸各家顶级酒吧工作，包括洛杉矶的「The

Normandie Club」。

PRESENTED BY 11 WESTSIDE

Daniel Eun

「11 Westside」坚持正统风味，从

Pulpo a la feria Mexicana

「我想我不迎合当地口味。Esdras 说：

墨西哥精炖章鱼

们在餐厅的激烈竞争中有一定的优势，因为顾客在我们这里的用餐经验是独一

Ochoa created this dish with chef Rafael Gil during a Spanish culinary challenge round on Netflix’s Final Table. A traditional octopus dish from Spain is given a Mexican makeover, becoming an heirloom tomato salsa of charred tomatoes, jalapeños, onions, and garlic, with fresh coriander-potato foam and smoked paprika for garnish.

Esdras 与「Rafael Gil」主厨在 Netflix《国际名厨争霸赛》的西

无二的。以食物来说，这里有明确的口

班牙烹饪挑战赛中一起创造这道

风格，当他们一想到墨西哥菜时，他们

料理，把墨西哥风味融入传统西

心里就会出现像是『啊，我真想吃一下

班牙章鱼料理。祖传番茄莎莎酱、

他们的烤肉塔可或玉米饼』的想法。」

烧烤番茄、墨西哥辣椒、洋葱、

味取向。如果顾客喜欢我们餐厅的美食

Daniel 表示，调酒也是一样的道

大蒜、香菜马铃薯泥为主要食材，

理，虽然每家墨西哥餐厅都有玛格丽特

以烟熏红辣椒装饰。

酒单，却都「以特有的方式」与食物搭配。他也设计过以墨西哥知名龙舌兰调酒「帕洛玛」为基底的酒。他解释：「严格来说，帕洛玛是龙舌兰酒、葡萄柚汽

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

水、一点盐再加上装饰用莱姆。」虽然

The same philosophy applies to the cocktails, which complement dishes “in a conscious way,” says Eun, who adds that although “every Mexican place has a margarita menu,” he has also created drinks that are a play on the paloma, a tequila-based cocktail popular in Mexico. “Paloma in the strictest sense is tequila, grapefruit soda, a little bit of salt, and maybe lime as a garnish.” Several variations of the drink are permanent items on the menu, even as it undergoes constant change. With all their devotion to authenticity, they still find it a challenge to replicate Mexico on a plate. “When people take a bite out of a proper taco,” the chef explains, “I wish they could hear mariachi playing, that they could see the colors of the Sea of Cortez where I’m from, see the farm laborers smiling and working hard, see the streets and the hustle.”

常常还是会做些变化，但许多改良版本的调酒皆为长期供应。尽管致力带来道地的料理，但将墨国风味原封不动地搬到餐桌上还是相当有难度。主厨解释：「当顾客咬下塔可，我希望他们在脑海里能听到墨西哥乐队悠扬的琴声，能看到我家乡的科尔特斯海的湛蓝海岸、田地里农夫辛勤的耕作与灿烂的笑容，当然还有熙熙攘攘的墨西哥街道。」 land of agave

TK |

十星殊荣

MELCO’S 10-STAR SPECTACULAR

DAVID HARTUNG

Macau’s leader in luxury resorts takes top honors at a glittering Michelin gala.

TK | LAND OF AGAVE

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

M E LCO R E S O R T S & E N T E R TA I N M E N T ’ S dazzling collection of fine-dining restaurants was awarded an astonishing total of ten Michelin stars by the newly released 2019 edition of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau. Melco’s remarkable achievement was the highest ever for any integrated resort operator in Macau. Six Melco restaurants won Michelin-star status. At City of Dreams, Jade Dragon attained the ultimate three-star rating for its masterfully prepared and presented Cantonese cuisine. Two stars were awarded to The Tasting Room for ultra-sophisticated French fine dining and to Alain Ducasse at Morpheus for intensely flavorful contemporary French food. Winning one star was Shinji by Kanesaka for authentic Japanese sushi. At Studio City, one star went to Pearl Dragon for its luxurious Cantonese menu, and at Altira Macau, Ying received one star for Cantonese classics with modern flair.

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在最新公布的《米其林指南香港澳门 2019》中，新濠博亚娱乐（新濠）获得辉煌的成绩，旗下的多间餐厅总共夺得十颗米其林星星，放眼澳门各个综合度假村営运商皆无人能及。六间摘星的食府包括获得三星殊荣的新濠天地尊尚粤菜餐厅「誉珑轩」，摘下两星的则有新濠天地法式料理餐厅「御膳房」以及摩珀斯现代法式料理餐厅「杜卡斯餐厅」，另外获颁一星嘉勉的有新濠天地道地日式寿司餐厅「金坂极上寿司」、新濠影汇奢华粤菜餐厅「玥龙轩」，以及新濠锋现代风经典粤菜餐厅「帝影楼」。除此之外，新濠荣获 2019 米其林指南推荐的餐厅还包括摩珀斯无菜单中餐厅「天颐」及经典法式料理餐厅「风雅厨」、新濠锋现代地中海美馔餐厅「奥罗拉」及精致日式天妇罗餐厅「天政」，还有位于新濠影汇、搜罗大江南北中国美食的餐厅「碧迎居」。对新濠来说，旗下共十一间餐厅获得米其林的嘉许，肯定了新濠在餐饮方面的领先地位。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

Michelin recommendations were awarded to an additional five Melco restaurants. At COD, recognition went to Yí for its Chinese omakase-style menus and to Voyages by Alain Ducasse for its innovative take on French bistro classics. Receiving recommendations at Altira Macau were Aurora for fresh renditions of Mediterranean flavors and Tenmasa for exquisite Japanese tempura. Studio City’s Bi Ying was noted for its exciting culinary tour of China. In all, a record-setting eleven Melco restaurants were honored by Michelin. Awards were accepted onstage during a resplendent evening event in late December hosted by Melco’s flagship resort, City of Dreams. Attended by more than five hundred guests, the third annual Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2019 Gala Dinner featured an exceptional menu created by a collaboration of master chefs. The theme, Metamorphosis,

颁奖礼在《米其林指南香港澳门 2019》晚宴上热闹举行，获奖者在逾五百位宾客参与的盛大晚宴中，风光地走上舞台接受颁奖。星级晚宴已是连续第三年于新濠旗下的新濠天地举行，今年大会以「非凡演变」为主题，以反映变化万千的烹饪世界与七位掌厨名厨不断精进的厨艺旅程。当晚的料理由以下几位烹饪界的艺术大师呈献：巴黎「Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée」总厨 Alain Ducasse、纽约「MASA」总厨高山雅氏、香港「龙景轩」总厨陈恩德、美国旧金山「Manresa」总厨 David Kinch、澳门「御膳房」「誉珑轩」总厨欧阳文彦和知名甜点师总厨 Fabrice Vulin、 Pierre Hermé。这些烹饪大师受邀为晚宴创造专属的原创菜式，也分享他们个人与职涯上的非凡演变。搭配七道料理的美酒均获 Robert Parker 超过九十分的高水准评价。日本超级舞团

Fabulous Sisters 更于当晚登台表演，将晚宴推向另一波高潮，为这个新奇、魔幻的非凡演变之夜锦上添花。 land of agave

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

was chosen to reflect the changing culinary world and the evolutionary journeys of the seven virtuosos, six from world-famous Michelin-starred restaurants: Kelvin Au Yeung of Jade Dragon, Fabrice Vulin of The Tasting Room, Alain Ducasse of Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Masa Takayama of Masa, Chan Yan Tak of Lung King Heen, David Kinch of Manresa, and renowned French pastry chef Pierre Hermé. Invited to create original dishes based on personal and career transformation, these luminaries created a seven-course extravaganza accompanied by a selection of wines, each rated by Robert Parker at over ninety points. Enlivening the occasion was the exciting Japanese dance crew Fabulous Sisters. For every guest in the room, Melco’s star-powered celebration became an unforgettable evening of magic and metamorphosis.

10-STAR ACHIEVEMENT M E LCO ’ S D A Z Z L I N G R O S T E R O F R E S TA U R A N T S AWA R D E D M I C H E L I N S TA R S A N D R ECO M M E N D AT I O N S 獲米其林星級嘉許和推荐的餐廳包括

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

Chinese Level 2, The Shops at The Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道二楼 q +853 8868 2822 Lunch: Mon-Sat: 12:00-15:00; Sun & public holidays: 11:0015:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual 5

The Tasting Room 御膳房

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

French Level 3, Nüwa, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地颐居三楼 q +853 8868 6681 Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Closed on Wednesdays A Smart casual 5

Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 杜卡斯餐厅

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

Contemporary French Level 3, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地摩珀斯三楼 q +853 8868 3432 18:30-22:30, Closed on Mondays 5

Shinji by Kanesaka 金坂极上寿司

MICHELIN

Japanese Level 1, Nüwa, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地颐居一楼 q +853 8868 7300 Lunch : 12:00-15:00 Dinner : 18:00-22:00 Closed on Mondays (Lunch & Dinner), Tuesdays (Lunch) A Smart casual 5

Pearl Dragon 玥龙轩

MICHELIN

Chinese Shop 2111, Level 2, Star Tower at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇巨星汇二楼2111号 q +853 8865 6560 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00; Sat-Sun: 11:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00 A Smart casual 5

Ying 帝影楼

Aurora 奥罗拉

Chinese Level 11, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳門氹仔广东大马路新濠锋酒店十一楼 q +853 2886 8868 Lunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

Mediterranean Level 10, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳門氹仔广东大马路新濠锋酒店十楼 q +853 2886 8868 Lunch: 12:00-14:00 Sunday brunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30

MICHELIN

Yí 天颐 Regional Chinese Level 21, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地摩珀斯21楼 q +853 8868 3446 18:00-23:00 5

Voyages by Alain Ducasse 风雅厨 French Level 3, Morpheus, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地摩珀斯三楼 q +853 8868 3436 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Afternoon tea: 15:00-18:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 5

Tenmasa 天政 Japanese Level 11, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳門氹仔广东大马路新濠锋酒店十一楼 q +853 2886 8868 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 5

Bi Ying 碧迎居 Chinese Shop 1182, Level 1, Casino at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇娱乐场一楼1182号 q +853 8865 6650 24 hours 5

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FABRICE VULIN M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

T H E TA S T I N G R O O M

御膳房

“I think the metamorphosis of a chef happens every day. There is no one particular turning point, because every day, every year, you are trying to improve and do better than the day before. My metamorphosis has been a gradual shift from when I was young and first starting out, being influenced by chefs I have worked with – I’m evolving every day. When you create a dish, there is an element of metamorphosis, from your initial concept to the finished product. With this dish, the metamorphosis is in taking different things from the sea, things we love, and recreating them into a dish that can be enjoyed by our guests.” 「我认为厨师每天都在非凡演变与成长，这是连续性的，并不存在特别的转折点，因为每一天、每一年都在努力比前一天变得更好。我的蜕变从年轻时就渐渐开始，也深受身边共事厨师们的影响，是每日每夜不断进化的历程。在创作一道料理时，从原始概念到成品的过程就是一场非凡演变。如同这道料理一般，演变就发生在将汪洋大海中我所珍爱的

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

食材，烹调成供宾客享用的珍馐美馔。」

P O A C H E D G I L L A R D E A U OY S T E R N O .3, S H E L L F I S H TA R TA R E , S E AWAT E R J E L LY, G I N G E R C R E A M , A N D L E M O N CO N F I T F R O M M E N TO N 吉拉多蚝、鲜贝他他、海水啫喱配姜味忌廉及柠檬 A tartare of cooked shellfish with lemon zest puree is placed in an oyster shell and topped with a poached oyster, seawater jelly, and caviar. 鲜贝他他与柠檬风味酱搭配水煮生蚝、海水啫喱以及鱼子酱，放于生蚝壳中。

land of agave

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M A S A TO R O C AV I A R 高山雅式吞拿鱼拖罗配鱼子酱 Fatty Toro is chopped to a smooth tartare and topped with caviar, a squeeze of lime, and finely diced chives. It is served with grilled milk bread for crunch and texture.

肥美的吞拿鱼剁碎成滑嫩的吞拿鱼他他，抹上鱼子酱，淋上柠檬汁，撒上细香葱，最后再搭配香烤牛奶面包来增添酥脆的口感。

MASA TAKAYAMA

高山雅氏 M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

MASA

“To me, metamorphosis isn’t a moment that just happens once in your life. Metamorphosis is a way to live, to constantly change and become a different version of yourself. Sometimes it’s for the better and sometimes you might take a step back, but it’s an opportunity to always be learning along the way. The Masa Toro Caviar dish came to me when I moved to Los Angeles from Tokyo to open my own place. It was a time when I went from feeling like I had made some mistakes to a place where I felt like I had a hit with Ginza Sushiko. I finally understood my customers and what they wanted to eat – this dish very much represents my transition from a sushi chef in Japan to owning my own sushi restaurant in America.” 「对我来说，非凡演变不是生命中某个转变的瞬间，而是一种生活方式，不断成长，蜕变成不一样的自己。尽管时而进步，时而退步，但这也是一个终生学习的机会。这道料理是我从日本搬到洛杉矶并开设自家餐厅所获得的灵感。在『Ginza Sushiko』餐厅取得成功之前的期间，我也曾犯了些错误，但现在我终于能理解我的宾客以及他们所渴望的美食。这道料理诠释了我从日本寿司师傅到美国拥有自己的寿司餐厅经历过的所有转变。」

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CHAN YAN TAK

陳恩德 M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

LU N G K I N G H E E N

龙景轩軒

“In life, the only constant is change. Every time you adapt and break through, you become a new you. A steamed fish dish is perhaps the most emblematic of Cantonese cuisine; it is food that is shared, and it makes frequent appearances on the family table. It’s something I always cook for my family when my children come home for dinner, but this dish can also be elevated and individually plated for a gala dinner. It is the metamorphosis of a family-style dish for the fine-dining table.” 「在生活中，变化是唯一的恒定状态。每当你顺应新环境并有所突破，你就会焕然一新。在粤菜中，蒸鱼可说是最具代表性的一道料理，可与亲友共享，是家家户户餐桌上常见的菜式。这道料理既可以是我每晚煮给家人享用的家常菜，亦可升华为晚宴上的独立料理，展现的就是家常菜摇身变成宴会料理的非凡

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

演变。」

S T E A M E D S E A B A SS F I L L E T I N FERMENTED BEAN SAUCE

French sea bass is marinated in thirty-year-aged mandarin peel, fermented bean, cordyceps, and a variety of spices and served on a bed of vermicelli.

豉汁蒸海鲈鱼

以三十年陈皮、豆豉酱、冬虫夏草与各式香料腌制的法式鲈鱼，与粉丝一同盛盘上桌。 land of agave

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KELVIN AU YEUNG 歐陽文彥 M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

JADE DRAGON 誉珑轩

F I S H M AW I N R A B B I T F I S H S O U P W I T H C R A B M E AT R O L L 花胶蓝子鱼汤配蟹肉卷

Premium wild-caught fish maw, prepared in a rabbitfish soup base with dried mandarin peel for flavor, is accompanied by a succulent crab meat roll 顶级野生花胶熬煮于以陈皮调味的蓝子鱼汤，再搭配鲜嫩多汁的蟹肉卷。

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TK | LAND OF AGAVE

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

“I worked for many years under the guidance of chef Tam Kwok Fung and recently took over the helm from him. This is the biggest turning point in my career, my pinnacle so far, and a real opportunity for metamorphosis. My dish, which takes an ordinary ingredient and changes it into something more, reflects that change.”

「我在谭国锋师傅的指导下工作多年，最近接替他的位置，这是我职涯中最大的转折点，亦是把握机会到达巅峰的非凡演变。这道菜也反映这个变化，把原本的食材提升至更高层次。」

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ALAIN DUCASSE M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

A L A I N D U C A SS E A U P L A Z A AT H É N É E

「烹饪的核心概念是『变化』，烹饪亦是人类与自然的互动关系，将大自然转化成餐桌上的佳肴。这道料理糅合了家常与高端的食材，如常见的土豆及珍贵的松露，都带有丰富的感官享受，每样食材既融合土壤与气候等风土条件，也是人们致力于驯化野性自然的产物。厨师的职责就是尊重并诠释人与自然之间的紧密关系。」

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

“Metamorphosis is at the heart of cooking. Cooking expresses the relationship between humankind and nature, and is essentially the metamorphosis of nature into food. This dish is an alliance of noble and humble produce. Be it a humble potato or a precious truffle, the produce always conveys a wealth of sentiments. Each one conjures up a terroir, a combination of soil and climate. Each one is the result of humans’ efforts in taming wild nature. The role of the cook is to respect and express this intimate relationship.”

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CO O K P OT O F B LU E LO B S T E R , P OTATO E S A N D B L A C K T R U F F L E 法式焗蓝龙虾配薯仔及黑松露菌

French-sourced blue lobster and potatoes are slowly simmered in individual cookpots to concentrate their tastes. French truffle is grated on top before serving. 源自法国的蓝龙虾及薯仔分别以文火慢炖，以萃取箇中精华风味，上桌前撒上细磨法式松露

DAVID KINCH M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

MANRESA

“Metamorphosis means to change, to evolve and grow. It is important, not to be afraid of these challenges, but to embrace them. This is a dish that was introduced to our menu after a damaging fire caused our restaurant to be closed for some time, so it signifies a new beginning. We have charcoal-grilled Japanese beef with Matsutake pine mushrooms and a delicate purée of black garlic and seasoned beef paste. An aged beef broth is poured tableside and pearled on the surface with a mushroom-scented oil.” 「演变的意义，就是改变、进化与成长。重点是不要惧怕这些挑战，而应该去拥抱它。这道菜是餐厅经历祝融而暂时歇业以后的全新菜式，象征餐厅的新开始。炭烤肉眼扒及松茸，搭配细致黑蒜泥及调味牛肉糊。上桌时淋上以烤牛肋骨制成的肉汁，当中的牛脂为料理抹上一层珠光色泽。」

C H A R CO A L G R I L L E D K A G O S H I M A B E E F RIBEYE AND CHARRED CABBAGE, BLACK T R U F F L E W I T H “ J U S CO R S É ”

Beef ribeye is charcoal-grilled, sliced, seasoned, and placed on homemade meat marmite and purée of black truffle and fermented garlic. It is served with roasted, caramelized savoy cabbage, and beef jus is poured tableside to complete the dish. 肉眼扒先以炭火炙烤，经切片、调味后，放在自制马麦酱、黑松露和蒜蓉上，搭配慢火烘烤呈焦糖色泽的卷心菜，最后上桌时淋上牛肉汤汁，香气满溢。

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

椰菜黑松露鹿儿岛肉眼扒

PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

PIERRE HERMÉ “This dessert is a play on the theme of metamorphosis. Soft sponge cake is soaked in hazelnut syrup and served with hazelnut praline cream, hazelnut praline paste, and whipped cream with hazelnut. We spray dark chocolate over it so it takes on the appearance of a truffle. And inside there is black Périgord truffle. It is the metamorphosis of hazelnut into truffle. A metamorphosis is, for me, a transformation, as in the way the black truffle is a buried treasure in the hazelnut. Creating this dessert was an unusual exercise for me, because I researched the visual effect at the same time as the taste, and I am usually mainly interested in taste.” 「这道料理就是一场以蜕变为主题的舞台剧。海绵蛋糕浸于榛果糖浆，再放入榛果仁奶油、榛果仁酱、榛果鲜奶油，并喷上黑巧克力，使其外观形似松露，里面放有佩里戈尔黑松露，象征了榛果转化为松露的非凡演变。非凡演变对我来说是一种转化，如同榛果就像埋藏的宝藏般，转化为黑松露。这道料理与过往的作法不同，我钻研了甜品的视觉效果及滋味。一般来说，我比较着重于料理的美味。」

F R O M H A Z E L N U T TO P E R I G O R D B L A C K T R U F F L E 朱古力松露

Sponge cake infused with hazelnut syrup, hazelnut praline cream, hazelnut praline paste, and whipped cream with hazelnut and black truffle are assembled and coated with dark chocolate to resemble a truffle. 松软海绵蛋糕先浸在榛果糖浆中，并以榛果仁奶油、榛果仁酱、榛果鲜奶油及黑松露层层包覆，并于表面喷上黑巧克力，使其更貌似松露。

PRESENTED BY SHORE HOSPITALITY GROUP

海陆美味聚一堂

of land and sea The essential flavors of the wild, from forest to ocean, come to life in the contemporary cuisine of Hunter & The Chase.

Executive Chef Felipe Lopez

STANDING OUT in a competitive environment isn’t easy, but under the helm of Executive Chef Felipe Lopez, Hong Kong restaurant Hunter & The Chase is making quite the impression. Diners are taking welcome note of its focus on ingredients that are sustainably sourced, free-range, and wild-caught and of its unique selection of American-made artisanal cheeses. Strikingly contemporary dishes, following a less-is-more philosophy, transport guests to the sea, to the farm, to the forest. “I don’t like to complicate,” says Lopez, “I like to highlight and enhance the essence of carefully sourced ingredients.” The chef delivers a vibrant sensation of the ocean with his geoduck sashimi with yuzu lime jus and New Zealand finger limes. Served in its shell, the thinly sliced and tender flesh has a wonderfully creamy, briny sweetness that brings the ocean to the plate. The acidity and lightness of the citrus serve as perfect

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想在竞争激烈的市场中脱颖而出极不容易，但在行政主「 Hunter & The Chase 」在香厨 Felipe Lopez 带领之下，港餐饮界大放异彩。餐厅致力引进永续采购、散养和野生捕获食材的作法，以及全港唯一的美国手工奶酪吧等都大获饕客好评。餐厅的现代风料理体现「少即是多」的哲学，带着客人上山下海，如同亲临海洋、农田及森林一般。Felipe 强调：「我不喜欢太复杂，重点在于让精心挑选的食材发挥特色，突显原味之美。」主厨处理海鲜的不凡功夫在柚子汁腌象拔蚌刺身这道菜中展现得淋漓尽致，柔嫩的蚌肉切成薄片，盛于壳中上桌，入口后绵密的肉质带着咸甜风味，让人宛如徜

FEATURE

Prime USDA Beef Tenderloin – forest mushrooms, bone marrow, reduction sauce

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

野菌烧美国牛柳扒伴牛骨髓

counterpoint, and the purity of the dish awakens the palate and engages the mind in anticipation of what is to follow. From land and forest come a dish of roasted red and yellow beets with lentils, cow’s-milk feta, seeds, and maple vinaigrette. “To experience the sweet, salty, earthy, and sharp notes in harmony, include all the ingredients in one bite,” advises Lopez. Some of the brighter notes come from excellent house pickles, including pickled beets, which, when contrasted with the mellow roasted beets, provide textural intrigue and depth of flavor. According to Lopez, diners are also going wild for the USDA Prime beef tenderloin served with a savory mix of seasonal forest mushrooms, decadent bone marrow, and rich bordelaise sauce. For a very happy ending, let Lopez select his favorite artisanal cheeses available only at Hunter & The Chase.

徉于海水中一般畅快，再配上柚子的微酸及清爽，味道恰到好处。食材纯粹的原味可以唤醒味蕾，有开胃的效果，叫人迫不及待想要品尝下一道菜。代表陆地及森林的餐点为烤红黄菜头沙律伴枫叶糖浆醋汁。Felipe 提醒，一口里要包含所有食材，才能同时尝到甜、咸、土质及呛味交织的美妙滋味。部分特别轻盈的味道来自腌甜菜根等口味一流的自家制腌菜，对比同道菜里柔滑的烘烤红菜头，添加不同层次的口感，呈现更具深度的风味。主厨也特别透露，味道卓绝的餐厅招牌菜野菌烧美国牛柳扒伴牛骨髓及波尔多酱让不少客人为之疯狂。最后上桌的「 Hunter & The Chase 」独家供应的则是 Felipe 个人最爱、多款手工奶酪，为丰富的海陆飨宴划下完美句点。 land of agave

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PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

中法糅合

to the heights MANY CHEFS QUIP about being born in the kitchen, but in the case of Chef Chung Kuy Fai, the boast is literally true. “It was Chinese New Year, a very busy time in the kitchen, and I came earlier than expected,” says Chung, who first saw the light in the back room of his parents’ Chinese restaurant. Now executive Chinese chef at The Parisian Macao’s signature fine-dining restaurant La Chine, Chung has every right to the claim that “cooking is in my blood.” Following his dramatic debut in the culinary world, Chung launched his career in Malaysia’s hawker stalls and was eventually recruited by a worldwide hotel brand. For the next thirty years, he cooked his way around the globe, from Tokyo to Shanghai to California’s Napa Valley, before bringing his years of experience to Macau and La Chine. Nestled inside the hotel’s half-size replica of the Eiffel Tower, the restaurant oozes sleek industrial chic, with blue and grey tones and elegant tables set amidst crisscrossing steel girders. “It’s all about the spectacular setting,” says Chung. “We’re the only restaurant that offers such a panoramic view of the Cotai Strip. And now we’ve become Macau’s landmark dining destination.” “I think a restaurant like this should be accessible to everyone,” he adds. “That’s why we encourage family fine dining.” This approach is eminently evident in the wide appeal of its offerings. “We have an intriguing mix of dishes,” says the chef. “The menu is 60 percent Chinese and 40 percent Western and French, with some really exceptional fusion specialties like our foie gras char sui.”

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RED DOG STUDIO

La Chine adds the thrill of a Parisian icon to its sophisticated take on French-influenced Chinese food.

PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

← Braised e-fu noodles topped with iberico barbecued pork and crispy ginger 黯然销魂黑豚叉烧伊面 → Seared M9 Wagyu beef sirloin with fresh wasabi, sea urchin and ice lettuce 香煎M9和牛西冷伴日本鲜山葵，海胆和冰菜 ↓ Chung Kuy Fai, Executive Chef

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

曾祺辉，行政总厨

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DAVID HARTUNG

The diversity of such a menu affords the chef ample freedom to explore a broad range of flavors and techniques. And while many chefs have favorite ingredients they like to feature, Chef Chung finds that, for him, certain tastes are what’s paramount. “I love to work with anything that has a powerful flavor,” he says. “Elements that are spicy or sweet or sour make a lasting impression on my palate.” La Chine was recently named a two-diamond restaurant in the second annual Black Pearl Restaurant Guide

很多厨师都打趣地说自己是「生于厨房」，但对曾祺辉总厨而言，却是真有其事。

released by Meituan-Dianping, China’s largest service-focused e-commerce platform. The rating includes the comment “perfect for special occasions,” an accolade Chung agrees with wholeheartedly. “La Chine is absolutely wonderful for parties and celebrations,” he says. “I mean, where else in the world can you experience Chinese fine dining while gazing out from the Eiffel Tower?”

的混合料理。菜单选项百分之六十是中式料理，百分之四十的西式及法式料理，

他说：「当时正值农历新年，厨房忙得不可开交，而我出世的时间又比预产期早。」他出生第一眼所见的便是父母中菜餐厅后面小房间的灯光，现在他已成为澳门巴『烹饪』流淌在我的血液黎人特色餐厅 ―「巴黎轩」的行政总厨，完全有权宣称「中」。在戏剧性地「出生」在餐饮界之后，这位总厨在马来西亚的熟食中心开始他的厨师生涯，后来被挖角到国际知名酒店服务。其后三十年，他曾在世界各地餐厅任职，从东京到上海，再到美国加州的纳帕山谷，现在他又将多年餐饮经验带到了澳门和「巴黎轩」。餐厅位于巴黎铁塔内，装潢散发着时尚工业风，蓝灰色调与雅致餐桌交错于钢梁铁柱间。总厨说：「所有设计皆为了营造令人叹为观止的用餐环境。我们是唯一能将路氹金光大道全景尽收眼底的餐厅，如今已成为澳门地标性的用餐地点。」总厨补充说道：「我认为这样的餐厅应该要平易近人，这就是我们崇尚家庭式精致餐饮的理念。」此餐厅形式充分展现于菜单中。他称：「我们提供令人玩味还有一些非常特别的无国界料理，如叉烧鹅肝。」多元化菜单给予总厨探索各种口味和技巧的自由，虽然许多厨师都有偏好的食材，但总厨发现，对他而言特定口感才是最重要的：「我喜欢运用味道强烈的食材，辣、甜、酸会给人意犹未尽的口感。」近日，中国最大服务型电子商务平台─美团点评公布第二届年度黑珍珠餐厅指南，其中「巴黎轩」获评为二钻餐厅，「非常适合特殊场合」正是餐厅获得的评价之一。对此，曾总厨表示完全认同：「『巴黎轩』绝对是举办派对和庆祝活动的首选。世界上还有何处，顾客可以在此既能品尝中菜，又能从巴黎铁塔眺望美景呢？」 land of agave

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香料至上

the spice is right The Golden Peacock interprets the manifold and complex flavors of India with fine-dining finesse.

Khumb Bajre Ka Soweta

DAVID HARTUNG

慢煮波特菇配有机胡萝卜伴有机黄米

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PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

Justin Paul, Senior Chef 高级主厨

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澳门威尼斯人的星级餐厅「皇雀印度餐厅」，以传统食材结合现代烹饪技术。餐厅高级主厨「所有香料和食材皆来自印度， Justin Paul 说：与在印度使用的如出一辙。我们以现代手法呈现印度味，同时保留道地原味。」

Justin 主厨是印度南部喀拉拉邦人，原本未想过要当厨师。他说：「我本来想成为会计师，但父亲教导我烹饪并启发了我。他不止精通各式菜肴，更不断尝试新东西、探究新食谱。」

Justin 主厨的职涯转变为他带来了源源不绝的成功，带领餐厅以「同类别中出众的餐厅」的好评，连续六年获得米其林一星的荣耀。此外，近日在中国知名电子商务平台美团点评出版「皇雀印度餐厅」的《2019 黑珍珠餐厅指南》中，获评为二钻餐厅。餐厅成为印度次大陆以外最受欢迎的印度餐厅之一。Justin 主厨说最重要的第一步是上等的食材：「我们坚持从印度进口香料。印度料理是强烈的感官揉杂─极其迷人的香气、鲜艳的色彩，糅合各种辛辣、甜美和浓郁的味道。」主厨琳琅满目的香料盒里装满美味珍宝，包括小茴香、香菜、芥菜籽、马萨拉综合香料、姜黄、肉桂、豆蔻和辣椒粉，完美胜任印度料理的烹调所需。

RED DOG STUDIO (2)

TRADITIONAL INGREDIENTS meet contemporary techniques at The Venetian Macao’s stellar Indian restaurant, The Golden Peacock. “All of our spices and other products are authentic,” says Senior Chef Justin Paul, “just as you’d find them in India. We present them with a modern approach, but the flavors are the real thing.” A native of Kerala in the country’s south, Chef Paul never planned on being a chef. “I was going to become an accountant,” he says. “My father taught me to cook and gave me my inspiration. He’d make all different kinds of dishes and he was always trying new things and looking for new recipes.” Paul’s change in career path has only led to growing success. For the sixth year in a row, the restaurant has won Michelin’s one-star rating for its “high-quality cooking, worth a stop.” Adding to its honors, The Golden Peacock has recently been named a two-diamond restaurant in the 2019 Black Pearl Restaurant Guide , published by MeituanDianping, China’s preeminent service-focused e-commerce platform. What is the path to becoming one of the most acclaimed Indian restaurants outside the subcontinent? According to Paul, the vital first step is to start with the best components. “We insist on importing our spices directly from India,” he says. “Indian food is a heady mix for the senses – hypnotic aromas, vibrant colors, and a myriad of spicy, sweet, and tangy flavors.” The chef’s abundant spice box is filled with all the savory treasures – cumin, coriander, mustard seeds, garam masala,

PRESENTED BY SANDS RESORTS MACAO

The traditional clay tandoor ovens 传统土窑炉

turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, and chili powder – everything needed for a perfectly Indian meal. The traditional clay tandoor ovens used at The Golden Peacock can work their magic on any food, most especially chicken. “The juices are sealed inside, keeping the flesh so tender and flavorful,” says Paul. Meats are first marinated in yogurt and spices, and breads like naan and roti are baked against the tandoor’s searing side walls. The proper equipment, ingredients, and techniques mean little, however, without a seasoned culinary staff who know how to make the most of them. At The Golden Peacock, chefs from eight different Indian states are experts at preparing their regional specialties. “I have a remarkable team here,” says Paul. “They bring such a variety of experiences, knowledge, and methods from so many wonderful places – and that’s what helps make this restaurant the very special place it is.”

「皇雀印度餐厅」使用的传统土窑炉，在烹调各项食材上皆能发挥神奇的作用，在鸡肉上的表现尤为见长。主厨说：「这个炉具可锁住肉汁，保持肉质的软嫩和美味。」肉类在窑烤前先以酸奶和香料腌制，而印度薄饼类则是直接贴于土窑炉的侧壁烤制。配备顶级的设备、食材与手法，仍需要经验资深的厨师才能让料理发光发热。在「皇雀印度餐厅」，来自八个不同省份的印度厨师都是各区域特色美食的专家。「我拥有一支优秀团队，不 Justin 主厨说：同背景的成员带来各自的烹调经验、知识和方法，而这也是我们餐厅与众不同的重要因素。」 land of agave

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WINE MASTER

数世纪的研发之路

centuries of innovation One of Bordeaux’s most venerable wineries carries on its long tradition of progress.

says Raphael Reybier, of Château Cos d’Estournel, where many who today work the land of the famed winery are descendants of those who did so at its founding more than two hundred years ago. “We have families who bring all these valued stories from their ancestors.” Reybier attributes the vineyard’s ongoing success in equal parts to innovation and family heritage. He is among the third generation of Reybiers involved in the food industry, and their family-owned vineyard on Saint-Estèphe hill to the north of the Médoc region is one of the few remaining in Bordeaux that have not sold out to big corporations. The winery’s founder was eccentric visionary Louis Gaspard d’Estournel, dubbed the Maharajah of Saint-Estèphe. In 1791, he made the bold decision not only to buy a large vineyard but also to manage the viticulture, blending, and sales himself. When d’Estournel, who had a taste for foreign travel, took his wines in barrels across the sea to India, he noticed that any unsold product that returned with him to France had aged beautifully. He cannily began labeling these choice wines as “returned from India.” Other châteaux soon borrowed the idea, and a new marketing strategy was born. Raphael Reybier’s father, Michel, who purchased the property in 2000, brought an equally innovative approach. The Reybiers have mapped every inch of the vineyard to evaluate the soil composition of each distinct parcel. With this knowledge, they are able to select grapes that are ideal for each wine they produce. Traditionally, a Bordeaux château’s “second wine” is of noticeably inferior quality to its first, but the Reybiers consider that each should reflect the vineyard’s highest potential. At Cos d’Estournel, the same workers produce both wines, with

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DAVID HARTUNG

“OUR PEOPLE are the living archives of our vineyards,”

Raphael Reybier

Pagodes de Cos offers a vivacious alternative in style and blend. Pagodes de Cos 为爱酒之人提供别样迷人的选择。

the aim of offering customers an alternative in style and blend. “The Cos d’Estournel normally needs a lot of time in the bottle,” explains Reybier of the vineyard’s first wine. “But many people don’t have the space or the money to age wine for long, and so the market needs wines that are more accessible. Our Pagodes de Cos is a serious wine with longevity – you can drink it quickly, but it will keep a long time too.” Inside the winery, there have been other innovations, including state-of-the-art gravity-flow equipment installed in 2008, which ensures gentle handling of the wines. “For many years in Bordeaux,” Reybier explains, “there was a lack of maturity in the grapes, but things started to change in 2000. France’s hottest year up to that time was 2003, and every year since has been warmer. We saw that the plants had gone from not enough maturity to too much, and we decided to treat the grapes more gently. It produces a beautifully rounded wine.” Many Bordeaux producers make use of clever blending in creating a consistent house style, but the team at Cos d’Estournel prefers to produce wines that accurately express the year of harvest, with accompanying variations in style from year to year. “Technology has given us the means to fine-tune, to be more precise in our vinification,” says Reybier. “It is another weapon against caprice. In difficult years, it helps in ironing out problems thrown at us by climate and nature. And It has also improved longevity – when wines are very precise, they last longer. Technology should not disturb the wine, it should perfect it.”

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谈到自家酒庄－爱士图尔酒庄 (Château Cos d’Estournel) 时，

Raphael Reybier 自豪地表示，这座庄园已经有 200 多年历史，许多员工的家族世世代代都在此工作。「每一个人都是酒庄里的活字典，许多前人的故事就是由这些家族世代相传的，极具纪念价值。」

Raphael 强调，持续创新及家族传统正是酒庄多年来屹立不摇的两大基石。Reybier 家族跨足食品界，Raphael 是第三代。位于梅多克区北方圣爱斯泰夫 (Saint-Estèphe) 山丘的爱士图尔堡是一座自家经营的酒庄，也是在波尔多地区中，少数尚未被大企业并购的酒庄。创始人 Louis Gaspard d’Estournel 特立独行，且极有远见，享有圣爱斯泰夫大君 (Maharajah of Saint-Estèphe) 的美名。他在 1791 年做了个大胆的决定－买下占地广阔的葡萄园，并亲自负责所有工序，包括栽种、混酿及销售。平时喜爱旅行的 Louis 有次带了数桶自家酿制的葡萄酒远渡重洋到印度，回到法国后发现没卖完的酒特别陈香。他突发奇想，将这些酒冠上「从印度而来」的名号贩售，随后这些酒一炮而红。这个概念吸引许多酒庄效法，成为全新的行销手法。酒庄后于 2000 年由 Raphael 的父亲 Michel Reybier 买下。庄园易主，但不变的是对创新的执着及追求。Reybier 家族先是仔细测量葡萄园的每一吋土地，估测每小块地的土壤成分，作为酿制每款酒所选用葡萄的依据。一般来说，波尔多酒庄的「二军酒」与一军酒相比，品质会出现明显差异，但 Reybier 家族认为不管什么酒，无论等级为何，都应体现酒庄所投入的心血。在爱士图尔酒庄，一军及二军酒由同一批人制作，为顾客提供不同的风格及混「我们的一军酒 Cos d’Estournel 在酿风味。Raphael 表示：瓶内陈酿时间极长，但很多人没那么多空间或资金让葡萄酒

WINE MASTER

“ Technology should not disturb the wine, it should perfect it. 科技不应阻碍葡萄酒的发展，而是要让它越趋完美。 ”

陈化，同时市场也需要容易出货的酒来流通。我们的二军酒 Pagodes de Cos 制作也毫不马虎，陈年能力极佳，既可以马上享用，亦可先陈放一段时间。」酒庄的创新之处不止于此，还包括在 2008 年配置技术领先的重力引流设备，以自然压榨的方式处理葡萄酒。「多年来波尔多葡萄的 Raphael 说明：成熟度都不足，但 2000 年起出现变化。 2003 年是法国当时有史以来最热的一年，其后气温逐年攀升，葡萄从不够熟变得过熟，所以我们才选择上述方法，更温和地对待每一颗葡萄，酿制出来的酒风味更加圆润，相当迷人。」综观波尔多，以精明简单混酿方式达到一致招牌风味的酒庄数量不少，但爱士图尔酒庄团队选择走另一条路，酿制的酒精准反映当年的葡萄品质，以及每一年不同的风味变化。 Raphael 指 COURTESY OF COS D’ESTOURNEL (4)

出：「因为科技，我们有工具可以进行微调，酿酒变得更加精准，我们多了一样武器去与变化多端的自然因素抗衡。在条件较差的年份，气候及大自然带来的难题也能迎刃而解，大大增加了葡萄酒的寿命。当酒成为精确生产过程的产物，将可以流传得更长更久。科技不应阻碍葡萄酒的发展，而是要让它越趋完美。」

Bordeaux’s venerable Château Cos d’Estournel dates to 1810. 波尔多的 Château Cos d’Estournel 酒庄历史悠久，可追溯至1810年。

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T A S T I N G 37

K I T C H E N

T H E F A R O E I S L A N D S

THE FAROE ISLANDS

Shaped by the Sea 向海而生

HONG KONG

Subarctic Specialties 北大西洋海味珍饈

TÓRSHAVN

At the Edge of the World 世界之缘

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$360 $270 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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TK | LAND OF AGAVE

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

11 Westside 5

Mexican restaurant & bar

Hunter & The Chase 5

3/F and 4/F, The L Place, 139 Queen’s

1/F, The Hudson, 11 Davis Street, Kennedy Town, Hong Kong 香港西环坚尼地城爹核士街11号浚峰1楼 q +852 3996 7754

11:00-23:00

Brickhouse 5

Mexican restaurant & bar G/F, 20A D’Aguilar St, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环兰桂坊德己立街20A号地下

American & European Road Central, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环皇后大道中139号 The L. Place 3楼及4楼

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

q +853 8111 9210

Lunch: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00

SW Steakhouse 永利扒房 5

Lunch: 11:00-15:00, Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Los Sotana 5

Mexican Lounge Basement, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong

香港兰桂坊德己立街21号地库 q +852 2970 3887

Daily: 18:00-05:00

American Steak & Seafood Cabaret North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663

Dinner: 17:30-23:00, Closed on Tuesday

澳门巴黎人巴黎铁塔六楼

Indian

q +853 8118 9696

Tue-Sat: 18:00-01:00, Sun: 17:00-01:00

Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

Golden Peacock 皇雀印度餐厅

澳门望德圣母湾街威尼斯人赌场地面大堂

q +852 2813 5787

Chinese & French Level 6, Eiffel Tower, The Parisian Macao,

澳门路氹连贯公路

Casino, Macau

Hing Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环善庆街6-10号华善楼地下

La Chine 巴黎轩

Thu-Sat: 18:00-04:00

da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperanca

Cocktail bar Shop A, LG/F Wah Shin House, 6-10 Shin

Mon-Sun: 11:30-01:00 Hunter (4/F), Lunch: 11:30-15:00

Mon-Wed: 18:00-02:00

Level 1, The Venetian Macao, Estrada

q +852 2915 1638

q +852 2810 0560

COA

Vida Rica 御苑餐厅及酒廊 5

Chinese & Western 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, n.°945 Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

澳门新口岸新填海区孙逸仙大马路 945 号澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8918

Breakfast: 06:30-10:30 Lunch: 12:00-15:00, Dinner: 18:00-22:00 land of agave

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Better Together At T h e E xe c u ti ve C e n tre, we u n d e r s ta n d tha t th e rig h t su p p o r t c a n ma ke a ll th e d i f fe re n ce w h e n i t co m e s to e n su ri n g th e su cc e s s of you r b u si n e s s.

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www.executivecentre.com

+852 2293 2293

hongkong@executivecentre.com

LAST CALL

Los Sotano’s head mixologist Rob Kariakin brings a Oaxacan twist to the classic New York sour by substituting Quiquiriqui mezcal for whiskey. The red wine slowly sinks into the espadín mezcal, giving his Cortés Sour a beautiful ombré effect below the frothy egg-white foam. 「Los Sotano」首席调酒师 Rob Kariakin 以 Quiquiriqui 梅斯卡尔酒取代经典纽约酸酒中的威士忌，添加一丝瓦哈卡风味。当中的红酒慢慢落入

DAVID HARTUNG

espadín 梅斯卡尔酒中，让蛋清泡沫下的 Cortés 酸酒呈现夺目的渐变效果。

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