品味奥地利美酒
austria uncorked
Central Europe’s up-and-coming wine region offers the world an abundance of top-tier choices just ripe for the picking.
124
|
TK | from the vine
谈及奥地利的出口产品，可能以莫札特 的音乐最为人熟知，但近年当地生产的 多种世界级葡萄酒也声名鹊起，迅速在 全球市场攻城掠地。奥地利葡萄酒产地 与法国勃艮第纬度相若，阴凉气候相当 适合葡萄树生长。虽然跟全球其他产地 相比，奥地利目前 2.3 亿升的年产量仅 排在第 18 名，但酿酒选用了各种各样本 土及世界各地的葡萄，种类之广，超越 一般人的想像。多瑙河流经的南端山丘 区域及新锡德尔湖葡萄产区受到多瑙河 流域多种微气候影响，栽种土壤则包括 石灰质土及火山土，地形亦横跨结晶岩 梯型地及黄土地形，相当多元。 上世纪 80 年代的假酒丑闻一度重 创业界，但奥地利酿酒业近年急速上升 的成长态势让这成为尘封往事。然而塞 翁失马，焉知非福，此事件反而让当时 的酿酒业者团结一致，瞄准高端外销市
AWMB / WOBERT SOMMERAUER, LUKAN (2), KOMITEE KAMPTAL , G.TRUMLER
WHILE THE MUSIC OF MOZART may be Austria’s best-known export, the country’s growing roster of world-class wines is steadily gaining ground. Positioned at the same latitude as Burgundy, Austria is considered ideal cool-climate wine growing territory, and although its production of 2.3 million hectoliters gives it a modest ranking of eighteenth in the world by volume, its wines are made from a surprisingly wide range of indigenous and international grape varieties. They thrive in a diversity of microclimates influenced by the Danube River, the mountainous landscape south of the river, and Lake Neusiedl and in soil types ranging from calcareous and volcanic to crystalline stone terraces and loess layers. The Austrian wine industry’s rapid upward evolution has made the adulteration scandal of the 1980s a fast-fading memory. Perhaps a blessing in disguise, the episode drove Austrian producers to work together to build a quality-focused brand especially for the high-end export market. Establishing uber-strict wine laws distinguishing origins of production and making the switch to mainly dry rather than sweet white wines were smart measures that have enhanced Austria’s wine quality along with its international reputation. A visit to the biennial Vievinum, Austria’s largest wine trade show, is an eye-opening experience. Held at the Hofburg palace, it’s the best place