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T A S T I N G 36

F R O M

HONG KONG

K I T C H E N T H E

From the Vine 源自天赐之藤

V I N E

ALSACE

One Land, A Thousand Terroirs 一方水土 百种香醇

NAPA VALLEY

A California Original 加州原创佳酿


DAVID HARTUNG

STARTER

Anticipation is an important element in any great meal – the mystery of the dishes to come, the ingredients chosen, the story the chef is about to tell. A shot taken at JAAN, Swissôtel The Stamford, Singapore, captures the precise moment an aperitif arrives, signaling the start of an exciting dining experience. 「期待」是每道成功餐点的必备元素,佳肴本身的神秘感、选用的原料、主厨的理 念,都能激发顾客的好奇心。这张在新加坡史丹福瑞士酒店的 JAAN 餐厅拍摄的照 片,精准地捕捉开胃酒上桌的一刻,象征一场激动人心的美食冒险即将展开。

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T A S T I N G 36

F R O M

K I T C H E N T H E

V I N E

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Chris Dwyer

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Inara Sim

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Karen Chiang

MANAGING EDITOR

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Lucy Morgan

Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Jenkins

IMAGE EDITOR

Rachel Duffell

TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

Jane Wong

Sarah Dallof

Babel Communications

Zita Wan

ACCOUNTANT

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Terrie Lam

Denise Lo Ann Kuok Vivian Pun

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Lauriane Lemaire

Vicki Williams Xania Wong

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

PRINTING

Yan Ni

Asia One Printing

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street

ACCOUNT DIRECTOR

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics

Chef Eric Räty of Arbor in Hong Kong presents a sumptuous dish of foie gras that features the subtle sweetness of Sauternes in both a foie gras emulsion and a compote of cherries. Read more about Räty’s masterful marriage of wine and fruit, starting on page 26. 香港 Arbor 餐厅主厨Eric Räty精心呈现奢华鹅肝料理,并将贵腐酒的微妙 香甜芬芳完美融入鹅肝酱与糖渍樱桃中。更多 Eric 高超的水果酒品搭配 料理,请见第26页。

Photography by David Hartung ©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2018 All rights reserved

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Laissez-vous surprendre, soyez Barrière. © Laurent Fau / Fabrice Rambert.

Be wahou, be Barrière I

mbued with luxury, elegance, charm and refinement, this palace is perfectly located on the Croisette, facing the Mediterranean Sea and the Palais des Festivals, the Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic houses 349 rooms, including

5 Signature suites and 2 penthouse suites. Gastronomy is one of the convivial pleasures that the Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic conveys through its 3 restaurants. Treat yourself to the luxury of a heated outdoor pool all year round and a private beach, or treat yourself to a 450 m² oasis at the Spa Diane Barrière. Hôtel Barrière Le Majestic, a winning combinaition of tradition, modernity and excellence ! Information and reservations : +33 970 82 09 00 - www.lemajestic-cannes.com


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, From the Vine, TK celebrates the glory of the grape and the bounty that flows from it. In our Wine Art column, we survey a new series of works created by Chinese artist Liu Bolin in partnership with Ruinart. Liu, who frequently acts as both artist and subject, spent several weeks at the vineyards and chalk cellars of the Champagne house, where he was struck by the rhythm of life and by the winemakers’ skills in drawing the best from the natural environment. Madame Clicquot of Champagne fame was known for valuing both the taste and appearance of her wines. Our Food & Art column reports on how the beauty of their colors is celebrated in a new collaboration that imaginatively pairs Veuve Clicquot Champagnes with a palette of vibrant dishes. In our feature on Hong Kong restaurant Arbor, Chef Eric Räty, who conceived the dish on our cover, presents four more of his original creations that incorporate and intermingle the flavors of fruit and wine. The issue’s vineyard journey comes in three parts. First we go to Napa Valley and historic Freemark Abbey, founded by California’s first female winemaker. Then we travel to Alsace in France to explore the region’s unrivaled diversity and maverick spirit and to talk with a dozen winemaking pioneers, several of them leaders in organic and biodynamics approaches. Finally, we stop in Austria to learn about its distinctive local grape varieties and the growing availability of Austrian wines in Asia. We hope you’ll enjoy From the Vine with a glass of one of your favorites.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER

10  The Glass of Fashion  •  14  A Toast to Creation  •  18  Continuing the Legend  •  20  The Colors of Clicquot  •  26  From the Vine 38  One Land, A Thousand Terroirs  •  66  Fine Dining the Wynn Way  •  76  Revival at Rocks  •  82  It Starts with Steak 88  Summer’s Inspirations  •  92  Sumptuously Simple  •  96  Matching Morpheus  •  100  Complex Simplicity  •  106  The Theme Is Cream

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14

18

20

26

20 68

66

84 76

38

82

104 88

96

108 100 116

106 120


CONTENTS

32  A California Original  •  110  Changing Courses  •  112  Viennese Japanese 116  Plant-Based Pleasures  •  118  Vienna’s Culinary Coastline  •  124  Austria Uncorked  •  128  Unaltered Traditions 132 L I S T I N G S   •  136 E N D N O T E S

112

116

118 124

DAVID HARTUNG

88

98

124 118

108 150 32

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INSPIRED LIVING

酒杯添香

the glass of fashion

Rolls-Royce Picnic Hamper

COURTESY OF ROLLS-ROYCE, COURTESY OF SWAROVSKI

Today’s most fashionable glasses enhance the wine-drinking experience.

THE SIMPLER THE RECIPE, the finer the ingredients must be. The same holds true when it comes to savoring a great wine. Besides a corkscrew, the only implement required is the right stemmed glass, and finding the perfect one is what gives an already pleasurable experience a heightened sense of occasion. The Rolls-Royce Picnic Hamper ( price upon request) is ideal for luxe alfresco wining and dining or those high-end tailgate gatherings. Nestled inside a handsome box of leather, teak, and polished aluminum are delicate crystal wine glasses and decanters, handmade by the Ajka Crystal factory in Hungary. Also included are Wedgwood porcelain plates and four elegant cutlery sets in stainless steel. Noteworthy evenings call for exceptional glassware, like Swarovski’s Gold Tone Crystalline Toasting Flutes ( HKD 3,200, set of two). Clear faceted crystals form the bases, and sparkling gold crystals fill the stems. Delicate, yet sturdy, these glasses let celebrants clink with assured éclat. Although they’re sold in pairs, each of the glasses in Versace’s Medusa Lumiere Red Wine Set (HKD4,400) is a one-ofa-kind work of art. Cut, milled, and polished from blocks of solid glass by skilled artisans, individual pieces come with slight variations that set them apart from the humdrum mass-produced. Completing the look are classic Medusa-head carvings at the base of each bowl.

TO PURCHASE

Rolls-Royce: Shop 4 G/F, Wu Chung House, 213 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai, Hong Kong, +852 2870 1692 Swarovski: Shop 1017, IFC Mall, 1 Harbour View Street, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2234 7126

Swarovski Crystalline Toasting Flutes, Gold Tone

Versace: Shop A, G/F, SCB Tower, 12 Queen’s Road Central, Central, Hong Kong, +852 2561 5018

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INSPIRED LIVING

越简单的作法需要越好的 食材,品评好酒也异曲同 工。除了开瓶器外,选对 搭配的高脚杯便是余下的 步骤。寻觅好酒杯可让愉 悦 的 品 酒 过 程 锦 上 添 花, 增添更多乐趣。 劳斯莱斯野餐箱 (RollsRoyce Picnic Hamper) 正是奢 华户外品酒野餐,或后车厢派 对的最佳拍档,帅气的外箱以 真皮、柚木及亮面铝板等材质组 成,里面除了匈牙利水晶玻璃品牌

Ajka 手工制作的精美水晶酒杯及醒酒 瓶外,还有英国陶瓷品牌 Wedgwood 瓷 盘,以及四组不锈钢雅致餐具。 值得纪念的夜晚要有一流的酒杯才 能相互辉映,好比施华洛世奇的金色祝 酒杯,每对售价为港币 3,200 元。套杯 底座由切面方整的水晶组成,杯脚内填满 金色水晶,闪闪发光,做工精细,却又坚固 耐用,让宾客觥筹交错间不失高雅格调。

Versace 美 杜 莎 系 列 的 Lumiere 红 酒 杯 组, 虽然为两件一组,但每一件皆是独一无二的艺术 品,售价为港币 4,400 元。技术高超的工匠对大 量坚实的玻璃板进行雕琢,切割、洗磨及抛光等, 每个步骤都无比精确,制作出的每件作品却都有 着细微的不同之处,与大量制造的寻常产品大异 其趣。品牌著名的美杜莎头像则刻在杯体与杯脚 交界,巧夺天工。

劳斯莱斯:香港湾仔皇后大道东213号 胡忠大厦地面层4号铺, +852 2870 1692

Versace Red Wine Glass

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施华洛世奇:香港中环港景街国际金融中心 商场1017号铺, +852 2234 7126 Versace: 香港中环皇后大道中 12号上海商业银行大厦地面层A铺, +852 2561 5018

COURTESY OF VERSACE, COURTESY OF ROLLS-ROYCE

购买地点


Rolla-Royce Picnic Hamper

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WINE ART

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艺术礼赞

a toast to creation

ARTIST: LIU BOLIN, COURTESY OF RUINART (2)

Yan Ni finds out how Ruinart, the world’s oldest house of Champagne, is continuing its long-standing commitment to the arts.

PARIS AT THE END of the nineteenth century was the world’s capital of fashion and style. Streets were filled with vivid advertising posters, works of art in their own right that transformed the city into an open-air museum. It was this vibrant spirit of creativity that André Ruinart hoped to infuse into his own brand. In 1896, he invited Czech artist Alphonse Mucha to create a poster promoting Ruinart Champagne. Their partnership was to mark the beginning of Ruinart’s storied relationship with the arts. Today, the Ruinart Champagne House participates in numerous international arts festivals each year. It also partners annually with a contemporary artist on a special project close to home. The creative vision presented by each of these commissioned artists offers the public a unique perspective on the history and values of the Ruinart brand.

19 世 纪 末 的 巴 黎, 是 潮 流 盛 典 之都,城市充盈着色彩鲜明的海 报,街道就像一个个露天的美术 馆。André Ruinart 寻思着,想要 为 Ruinart 香槟注入新的艺术生 命。1896 年,André 第一次大胆 尝 试, 请 捷 克 艺 术 家 Alphonse

Mucha 创 作 了 一 张 海 报。 从 那 时 起,Ruinart 就 一 直 致 力 于 艺 术事业。 除了参与大量国际艺 术展,酒庄每年都会与一位当代 艺术家于其家乡的周边地区,展 开专题项目的合作,通过他们独 特与具创造性的视野,让大众能 通过独特的角度更深刻地体会

Ruinart 的传奇历史与品牌价值。

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WINE ART

This year’s artistic collaboration features Chinese contemporary artist Liu Bolin. Liu is known for casting himself as both the artist and the subject of his work. With his body colored to match the surroundings, he virtually disappears into the lush greenery of a Ruinart vineyard, the earthwork of its underground wine cellar, or the golden hues of Ruinart’s Champagne bottles. Akin to still lifes, the pieces evoke a sense of longing and nostalgia:

他安静地伫立在那里,仿佛与万物合一 ; 他安静地伫立在那里,仿佛变成时间之 矢,贯穿或消失于自然的永恒之中。 今年,Ruinart 与中国当代艺术家刘勃 麟携手共创艺术作品。作品中的他既是艺术 家又是艺术品本身,身上承载着颜色,消失

He stands there quietly, as if becoming one with his surroundings. He stands there quietly, as if becoming a vector in time, passing through or disappearing into the eternity of nature.

于葡萄园中、地窖中,以及 Ruinart 金色的

The figures found within Liu’s works display enigmatic expressions at once friendly and devout. Thoroughly merging with their environment, they seem to stand naked in the midst of unadulterated scenes that inspire meditation on what it means to return to nature:

他们的眼神友善虔诚,当身披着环境的颜色

酒瓶中。如同一幅幅静物画,作品所呈现的 憧憬与怀念之情将感染在场的观众。 刘勃麟呈现的作品透露出友好和虔诚。 并站在环境中时,形同赤身。这份纯粹激发 起观众思考返璞归真的真正含义。

自然孕育人类,也是人类得以生存的源

Nature, which gave birth to the human race, is the source of our

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泉。人类站到自然的对立面,为了有


ARTIST: LIU BOLIN, COURTESY OF RUINART (2)

existence. Standing apart from it, we seek to grasp and transform it for the benefit of our own development. But in forgetting our existence, in returning to nature’s embrace, what is it that we truly leave behind in this world? During the summer of 2017, Liu traveled to Reims, where he spent some time at the Ruinart Champagne House and was deeply affected by what he saw: “I was impressed by the team’s expertise and how the surrounding natural resources are put to use in the production of Champagne. From the vineyards to the chalk cellars, whose inherent temperature and humidity are ideal for wine production, Ruinart winemakers draw the best from nature without causing harm.” Liu Bolin presents us with his own experience, helping us to perceive the rhythm of life that pulses within, the harmonies that resonate between the individual and the ecosystem as a whole, and the freedom that comes from honoring this relationship. In its essence, Ruinart itself can be seen as a work of art, one born from a synthesis of human creativity and the surrounding natural environment.

利于自身发展所需,去把握和改造自 然。但如果不曾返璞归真,忘记自己 存在的根本,我们又能为这世界留下 点什么?

2017 年 夏 天, 刘 勃 麟 来 到 兰 斯, 在 Ruinart 酒庄度过了一些时光。期间他被眼前 的事物所打动 : 「团队的专业给我留下了深刻 的印象,我也目睹团队将周围的自然资源活 用、转变成香槟的过程。离开田间,酒窖的 温度和湿度都很适合酿酒。Ruinart 的酿酒师 从自然界中吸取了精华,却没有对自然造成 任何伤害。 」 刘勃麟借作品诉说他的亲身经验,让我 们感知个体和整个生态系统的韵律结合,我 们亦将因尊重这种关系而获得更大的自由。

Ruinart 是将人为的创造力与自然环境融合为 一体,继而孕育而出的作品。 from the vine

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续谱传奇

continuing the legend C L O S E T O T W O H U N D R E D Y E A R S after The Macallan debuted its first expression in 1824, the iconic Scottish single malt producer has unveiled its remarkable new distillery and visitors center on the heritage site of Easter Elchies Estate in Craigellachie, the heart of Scotland’s fabled Speyside region. Designed by internationally acclaimed London-based architects Rogers Stirk Harbour+Partners, the new distillery will enable production of The Macallan to meet a growing global demand for its single malts, with Asia currently the thirstiest market. The facility’s new stills were crafted by Scottish coppersmiths Forsyths, who have been making The Macallan’s “Curiously Small” stills since the 1950s. Exceptional care was taken to ensure that the spirit continues to be produced in exactly the same way as it was in its previous distillery. The stunning new facility has been built into the landscape to preserve the region’s unique countryside. Its timber rooftop was designed to resemble softly undulating hillocks, and 95 percent of its energy comes from renewable sources. Visitors will enjoy unforgettable views of Macallan’s thirty-six copper-pot stills and pay a visit to the cavernous tasting library of more than nine hundred fifty bottles, dating back to 1936. To celebrate the landmark opening, Creative Director

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Ken Grier visited Hong Kong, bringing with him the latest release in The Edition Series, The Macallan Edition No. 4, which embodies the craftsmanship and pioneering design of the new distillery. This limited-edition expression has been shaped by the use of handpicked European and American oak casks, which have imbued rounded honey and sweet toffee aromas and an intense flavor burst of nutmeg and wood spices. “Edition No. 4 is a celebration of The Macallan’s heritage as we enter an exciting new era,” says Master Distiller Nick Savage. “It marks the coming together of our history and new horizons in the creation of two structural masterpieces: a remarkable whisky and a magnificent new distillery.” Hong Kong, a key market for Macallan, was chosen for the Asia Pacific debut of Edition No. 4 in a two-day event held at ArtisTree in Taikoo Place. “As The Macallan has grown globally, it has become very important to make sure we can sustain demand for this wonderful amber liquid,” remarked Grier in welcoming guests to the launch. “We’ve taken exceptional care that the spirit produced in the new distillery is identical to that from our previous facility. This is the beginning of a really exciting new chapter in the evolution of this wonderful brand known around the world as The Macallan.”

COURTESY OF THE MACALLAN (2)

To toast a new era in its long history, The Macallan launches Edition No. 4 in Hong Kong.


WINE NEWS

The Macallan 在 1824 年首度推出威士忌至今

为庆祝新酒庄落成,创意总监 Ken Grier

已将近两世纪,如今这个具标志性的苏格兰

把系列最新作品 The Macallan Edition No. 4

单一麦芽威士忌品牌打造出全新蒸馏厂与游

单一麦芽威士忌带来香港,此佳酿不仅彰显

客中心,坐落于苏格兰斯佩河畔核心地区的

精湛工艺,还突显出新酒庄的前卫设计。这

克莱拉齐精神庄园 (Easter Elchies Estate)。

款限量版使用了酿酒师亲自精心挑选的欧洲

这座新酒庄由伦敦建筑公司 Rogers Stirk

与美国橡木桶,为酒体注入蜂蜜与太妃糖香

Harbour+Partners 设 计, 可 望 提 升 产 量, 以

气,与肉豆蔻及橡木香交织,韵味独特。

满足国际上对单一麦芽威士忌节节攀升的需

「Edition 首席酿酒师 Nick Savage 表示 : No. 4 是 The Macallan 威士忌酿造传统工艺

求,而亚洲更为目前全球需求最大的市场。

The Macallan 重视精神传承,希望新的

迈入崭新时代的见证。非凡的威士忌与华丽

蒸馏仪能跟之前酒庄里的一致,并以相同的

的全新酒庄是 The Macallan 的两项呕心沥血

技 法 制 作, 于 是 委 托 从 1950 年 代 起 便 为 他

之作,象征我们将继往开来。 」

们制作「最小巧」蒸馏仪的铜匠企业福赛斯

香港被选为 Edition No. 4 在亚太地区上

(Forsyth),一手打造酿酒厂的新铜管蒸馏仪。

市的首站,在太古坊 ArtisTree 举办为期两天

新酒庄的设计完美嵌入当地风景,保存

「The 的庆祝活动。Ken 在迎宾致词时表示 :

当地独有的乡村景观。木造屋顶有如波浪起

Macallan 不断拓展版图,因此满足大众的需

伏的天然丘陵,95% 的电力来自再生能源。

求并持续生产这琥珀色佳酿,尤为重要。我

访 客 在 此 能 欣 赏 让 人 过 目 不 忘 的 36 支 The

们将旧酒庄的传统贯彻在新酒庄的烈酒生产

Macallan 铜制蒸馏仪,还可参观收藏追溯至

当中。The Macallan 正站在时代的开端,此

1936 年、逾 950 瓶威士忌的偌大品酒室。

刻已翻开了令人兴奋与感动的历史新章。 」

The Macallan Edition No.4


FOOD & ART

幻彩戏法

the colors of clicquot A great Champagne house celebrates with a palette of vibrant dishes that match the notes and nuances of its famous wines. MADAME CLICQUOT ONCE WROTE of her renowned Champagnes, “Our wines must be flattering both on the palate and on the eye.” The precept holds true today as Veuve Clicquot pays homage to color with its 2018 Colorama collection. Extending the tribute in an imaginative collaboration, Alberto Hernández, executive chef of Aqua Restaurant Group, has created Colorama dishes that pair his striking BY presentations and essential flavors with selected Veuve RACHEL DUFFELL Clicquot Champagnes. Hernández brings a wealth of experience to the tables PHOTOGRAPHY BY at Aqua, including time spent at world-famous restaurant DAVID HARTUNG elBulli in Catalonia. A native of Spain himself, his dishes, inventive, considered, and sophisticated, reflect his roots as well as the influences that have shaped his approach. Above all, they show a deep appreciation for the raw components. “My style is always based on the product and its quality. A very good chef with a bad product FIRST COURSE can do nothing. You work with respect, but add your touch, as well as the things you have learned. The result is the TRIBUTE TO YELLOW LABEL main ingredient with different flavors and effects, but you 向黄牌酒标致敬 always taste the quality.” Putting his culinary philosophy on vivid display, The iconic sunburst hue of Veuve Clicquot’s Yellow Label, Hernández’s Colorama dishes, inspired by both the colors first trademarked in 1877, influenced Colorama’s first and blends of Veuve Clicquot’s signature Champagnes, course: oyster and scallop ceviche with pumpkin purée. radiate with bright hues. “The aim,” Hernández says, “was A painter’s tube of saffron cream and an accompanying to pair as much as possible with the natural flavors and the palette knife allow diners to express their inner artist by natural ingredients to get the colors.” adding additional sauce strokes as desired. “Oysters and The dishes incorporate tastes that complement Champagne make a classic pairing,” says Hernández. “I and point to many of the aromas and notes of the add marinated scallops in a ceviche style so that we’ll Champagnes. “I’ll always have three or four ingredients in have two different textures. The last touch is the saffron a dish, not more,” says Hernández, ”because if you have too many flavors, you’ll simply be lost in the dish.” – because I’m Spanish!”

经典的凯歌夕阳黄牌香槟,于 1877 年注册商标,是搭配

Colorama 菜单中的第一道菜-南瓜泥佐柠檬渍生蚝及扇 贝的最佳拍档。藏红花酱的颜料旁放着一把调色刀,顾 客可尽情地在餐盘上加入喜欢的线条,释放自己的艺术 「生蚝与香槟是经典组合,再加上柠汁 魂。Alberto 说 : 腌鱼风格的柠檬渍扇贝,如此便能尝到两种相异的口感。 最后加点藏红花点缀,这是因为我来自西班牙 !」

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Colorama is available at Aqua and Armani/Aqua in July and August. To learn more, please visit aqua.com.hk.


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FOOD & ART

凯歌夫人曾为自家美酒写下这样一句话 : 「我们的

SECOND COURSE

TASTE OF TIME 品味不同年份

酒 一 定 要 让 品 尝 者 的 舌 尖 与 目 光 都 无 法 招 架。 」至 今, 这 句 名 言 依 然 与 凯 歌 香 槟 对 色 彩 致 敬 的 2018 Colorama 系列相当吻合。Aqua Restaurant Group 行 政 主 厨 Alberto Hernández 创 造 出 Colorama 菜 单, 其令人惊艳不已的摆盘与绝佳美味,与凯歌香槟的特 选佳酿完美配合,借这创意无限的组合再向料理致敬。

Hernández fluently blends his Spanish heritage with Aqua’s Italian style of food in a dish that combines Norwegian salmon and Mazara red prawn with the height of luxury, osetra caviar. The dish rests on a brush-stroked base of black cuttlefish ink, common in Spanish cuisine, and is accompanied by black cannelloni. “Black is the color of luxury,” says Hernández. “Go for a luxury dinner and the men will put on black tie.” That was the idea behind a dish designed to pair with such a spectacular Champagne as Veuve Clicquot Extra Brut Extra Old in its blacktinted bottle.

「Aqua」餐厅里处处展现出 Alberto 的老到经验, 这要归功于主厨在世界知名的加泰罗尼亚「elBulli」 餐厅任职的时光。身为土生土长的西班牙人,他的料 理不只充满创意、胆大心细,更精雕细琢,反映他的 民族性与烹饪路上所受的历练。最重要的是,这些料 「我 理表现出主厨对原始食材的深刻了解。Alberto 称: 的菜式风格总是根据食材的品质而定。即使厨艺过人, 没有好的食材也无计可施。烹饪时要带着敬意,也得 带入一些自己的巧思与经验。最后烹调出来的料理, 虽然受到不同调味与煮法的影响,却依然能尝出食材 的好品质。 」

Alberto 熟练地将西班牙特色带入「Aqua」其中一道融合挪威

Alberto 的 Colorama 料 理, 受 到 缤 纷 色 彩 和 凯

鲑鱼、玛扎拉大头虾和极致奢华的 Osetra 鱼子酱的料理中。墨

歌经典黄牌香槟的启发,在餐盘上散发着耀眼光辉,

鱼在西班牙菜中实属常见,而这道菜就静静躺在大笔一挥刷出

「最主要的目标, 尽显主厨的烹饪哲学。Alberto 说 :

「黑 的墨鱼汁线条上,再配上黑色的意大利面卷。Alberto 说 :

是尽可能将天然食材与天然调味料层层搭配,创造最

色象征奢华,就像前往高级餐厅的男士也会佩上黑色领带。 」这

丰富的色彩。 」

道菜便是起源于这种理念,搭配凯歌特级干型极老香槟这款顶 级黑瓶酒。

料 理 亦 有 助 于 衬 托 并 提 升 香 槟 的 芬 芳 香 气。 「每道菜绝不超过三到四种食材,因为 Alberto 说明 : 一旦掺杂太多味道,很容易迷失在味觉的迷宫中。 」

即日起至八月底止,Colorama 菜单可在「Aqua」和 「Armani/Aqua」餐厅品尝。欲获取更多信息,请查 阅 aqua.com.hk。

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FOOD & ART

THIRD COURSE

THE CLICQUOT PALETTE 凯歌调色盘 In 1818, Madame Clicquot became the first to blend a rosé Champagne. Clicquot’s innovation is reflected in Hernandez’s dessert, a flight of fancy based on an artist’s palette, with flavors and tones to match all aspects of Veuve Clicquot Rosé. Amarena cherry cheesecake topped with cloudlike candy floss forms the centerpiece. Accompanying is a pink rainbow of sauces, whose colors are at odds with their flavors, requiring diners to distinguish the strawberry from the white chocolate or the mango. “It’s a little bit of fun,” says Hernandez. “I’ve played with the color. If you think it’s one thing, it just might turn out to be something else.” 1818 年,凯歌夫人成为混酿玫瑰香槟的创始人。Alberto 的甜点,异想天开 地用调色盘取代餐盘,盘上的口味与色调都为了配合凯歌玫瑰香槟而精心制 作,反映出凯歌夫人的创新精神。铺上云朵状蛋白泡沫的黑樱桃奶酪蛋糕是 这道甜点的焦点,一旁搭配如彩虹般的粉红色酱汁。这些酱汁的颜色与口味 并无关联,顾客要自行找出草莓、白巧克力与芒果的味道各居何处。Alberto 说: 「这样能带给顾客一些乐趣,我用颜色来玩些小把戏。在放进嘴巴之前, 你永远猜不到这是什么味道。 」

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WINE CREATION

源自天赐之藤

from the vine In the hands of a master, subtle notes of fruit and wine become the inspiration for Arbor’s newest offerings.


Eric Räty, Arbor’s chef de cuisine, has a true gift for conceiving innovative French food that unites classic French techniques with Japanese ingredients. It is largely this unique talent that has made Arbor such a critical hit since it opened earlier this year. But, as Vicki Williams discovers, Räty is also a master at using one ingredient to highlight another, as demonstrated by four remarkable fruit-andwine-centered dishes. §「Arbor」餐厅行政主厨 Eric Räty 擅长

利用传统法式烹饪技术处理日式食材,进而创造新颖的法式料 理。凭借这项过人的天赋, Eric 让开业不到一年的「 Arbor 」成 为城中热话。TK 记者 Vicki Williams 发现 Eric也是让食材相互辉 映的大师,主厨巧妙地把水果和美酒完美结合在以下四道美轮 美奂的创作料理当中,充分展示了 Eric 的才华。

Foie Gras 鹅肝

For Räty, a dish must taste as good as it looks, and this certainly holds true for his exquisite offering of foie gras accented with Sauternes. The famous sweet wine of France is used in both an airy foie gras emulsion and a cherry compote, discreetly concealed beneath glazed cherries filled with Japanese ume. Finished with toasted buckwheat and edible flowers, the dish, with a prominent yet balanced undertone of wine, plays out a symphony of complementary tastes and textures on the palate. Eric 坚持料理一定要色味俱佳,在特制的贵腐酒香鹅肝料理中 更能体现他的烹饪原则。远近驰名的香甜法国葡萄酒 加入轻盈的鹅肝酱与樱桃酱,并小心翼翼地呈 放在点缀着日本梅子酱的糖渍樱桃底下, 最后放上香烤荞麦粒与食用花瓣作 点缀,整道菜带有独具一格却 不失平衡的淡淡酒香,在 口中演奏出美味与口感 相辅相成的动听交

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

响曲。

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Turbot 多宝鱼

Perfectly pan-roasted wild turbot from Brittany gently rests on a smoky, white-wine cream sauce with contrasting hints of acidity from French sorrel. What lingers longest in the memory is the single accompanying Japanese muscat grape, lightly pickled in rice vinegar, mirin, and sake and adorned with delicate dill blossoms. Lifting and intensifying the flavor of the fish, this simple element adds a rousing burst of color and flavor.

经过完美的 平 底 锅 烘 烤 法, 法国布列塔尼野生

多宝鱼轻柔地躺在带有 法国酢浆草特有酸气的烟熏 白酒奶油酱上。入口后更久久不能 忘怀,是那一颗摆在多宝鱼旁的日本麝 香葡萄,葡萄以米醋、味淋与清酒稍微 腌渍,与装饰其上的精致小茴香花瓣一 同摆入盘中。这样简单的点缀,不仅提 升且增强鱼肉温和的口感,更增添整道

DAVID HARTUNG

菜令人振奋的色彩与风味。

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WINE CREATION

Blue Lobster 蓝龙虾

This new specialty takes a cue from fresh cassis , or black currant, which Räty describes as the “Nordic grape.” The fruit plays a vital supporting role to the star, premium lobster tail from Brittany. Lightly poached in butter infused with black currant leaf, it is served with a selection of Japanese beets prepared in varied ways: baked, pickled, and raw. A creamy lobsterrich beet sauce and fresh black currants complete the cast. The berries, with an acidity and mouthfeel similar to grapes, bring bright piquancy to a sumptuous dish. 这 道 新 特 色 美 食 有 着 新 鲜 cassis, 就是黑加仑子的香气,Eric 将此黑 色浆果形容成「北欧葡萄」 。小小 的水果是不可或缺的最佳配角,将

Muscat Grape

来自法国布列塔尼的顶级龙虾尾推

麝香葡萄

上舞台的焦点。轻轻地将龙虾于泡 过黑加仑子叶的奶油中烫过,再搭

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

配三种分别烤过、腌过与新鲜的日 本红菜头放入盘中。最后加入龙虾 熬煮的红菜头酱与新鲜黑加仑子即 大功告成。黑色莓果富含独特酸性 与近似葡萄的口感,为这道豪华料 理带来鲜明的亮点。

Räty’s finishing tribute to the vine comes in the form of a double dessert named Muscat Grape. Part one features choice grapes from Japan that are marinated overnight in sweet Fu sake, which itself has aromatic suggestions of muscat. Resting on a mix of grapes, sake, and elderflower that has been aerated with a siphon, they are paired with creamy sake rice pudding. Part two features fresh grapes, lemon balm, more rice pudding, and delightfully refreshing grape sorbet. To better showcase the fruit, the plating is intentionally understated.

Eric 向葡萄藤致敬的最后一道菜,称 作麝香葡萄,是双式甜点。第一部分, 将特选日本葡萄放入本身即带有麝香 芬芳的香甜傅清酒中腌渍一整夜。接 着摆在葡萄、清酒和用虹吸管打过气 的接骨木花混和物上,搭配绵密的清 酒米布丁一起上桌。 第二部分,将 新鲜葡萄、蜜蜂花和更多米布丁与令 人神清气爽的葡萄雪葩合而为一。为 了突显水果之美,摆盘刻意保持低调 典雅风格。 from the vine

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加州原创佳酿

a california original The long heritage of a Napa Valley winery lives on in its celebrated wines.


WINE

The iconic stone building dates to 1899 标志性石砌建筑可追溯至1899年

位于圣海伦娜与卡利斯托加之间 的 Freemark Abbey 酒庄拥有酿产 业中最显赫不凡的历史。1881 年,

Tychson 家族来到圣海伦娜,John 与 Josephine 带着两个孩子,计划 在纳帕谷开始酿造他们的第一桶 酒。 四 年 后,John 仙 逝, 留 下 孤 零零的 Josephine 和小孩们望着前 景 堪 忧 的 家 业。 不 过,Josephine 并没有循规蹈矩选择走平凡的路, 也 没 有 携 子 再 嫁, 反 而 著 手 创 建 自 己 的 酒 庄。1886 年, 一 座 优 雅 Estate Manager Barry Dodds

的 红 木 建 筑 矗 立 在 现 今 Freemark

Abbey 酒庄地址,她站在建筑物旁 边,带着第一瓶自酿葡萄酒,成为 加州有纪录以来第一位女酿酒师。

PICTURESQUE FREEMARK ABBEY, nestled between St. Helena and Calistoga, has one of the wine world’s most unusual histories. It begins in 1881 with the journey to St. Helena of the Tychson family, John and Josephine and their two small children, intent on making wine in the Napa Valley. Four years after they arrived, John passed away, leaving Josephine adrift with the children and without prospects of an income from wine. Rather than following the customary ways of the time and remarrying, Josephine set out to establish a winery on her own. Starting with a graceful redwood building on the spot where Freemark Abbey stands today, she became the first female winemaker on record in California, with her debut vintage released in 1886. In 1898, the winery was purchased by Antonio Forni, an enterprising

1898 年,Tychson 家族的友人 Antonio Forni 收购了这家酒庄。这 位继承者是一名极具进取精神的意 大 利 移 民, 后 来 更 兴 建 Freemark Abbey 初 期 的 石 砌 酒 庄, 而 Jackson Family Wines 自 2005 年至 今一直保有该酒庄的所有权。 物业经理 Barry Dodds 娓娓道 出深植于此的当地精神 : 「早期纳 帕谷酿酒业开始兴盛时,大部分酒 商之间的关系都比较友好,许多葡 萄农与酒商的关系就从简单的握手 from the vine

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Italian immigrant who was a good friend of Tychson’s. He went on to construct the original stone building of Freemark Abbey, which since 2005 has been under the ownership of Jackson Family Wines. Estate Manager Barry Dodds explains the deep-rooted spirit of the region: “In those early days of winemaking in Napa Valley, most vintners viewed themselves as collaborators – so many grower and vintner relationships began with a handshake. And there is still a lot of collaboration that occurs at the wineries in Napa Valley today. We’re a very small community, with everyone knowing everyone else. So we all root for one another and champion each other’s success, because it’s Napa’s success.” One of the most enduring bonds established at Freemark Abbey has been with the Bosché family, owners of Bosché Vineyard since 1965. Freemark Abbey began buying the majority of their fruit in 1970 and 1971, and since 1972, Bosché has produced exclusively for Freemark Abbey. Indeed, Freemark Abbey’s Cabernet Bosché became only the second vineyard-designated wine bottled in Napa Valley, just a few months after the release of Martha’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

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开始建立。时至今日,多数纳帕谷的酒庄们 依然维持互助合作的关系。我们就是一个小 小的社群,家家户户互相熟识,所以大家都 是彼此的后盾,更为彼此的成功由衷地感到 开心,因为每个人的成功都是纳帕谷整体的 成功。 」

Bosché 家 族 从 1965 年 起 便 是 Bosché Vineyard 的 所 有 人, 也 是 和 Freemark Abbey 合 作 时 间 最 久 的 伙 伴。Freemark Abbey 在 1970 年 起 成 为 Bosché 葡 萄 园 最 大 买 家, 于 是 Bosché 决 定 于 1972 年 成 为 Freemark Abbey 的 专 属 果 园。 的 确, Martha 酒庄的赤霞珠红葡萄酒开卖几个月 后,Freemark Abbey Cabernet Bosché 便 成为纳帕谷第二款以单一葡萄园为名的限定 酒。 「Freemark Abbey 酒 庄 与 Barry 说 :


WINE

“The relationship between Freemark Abbey Winery and the Bosché family will continue to stand the test of time,” says Dodds. “Our growers care deeply about how their vineyards are expressed in our wines. So it’s important that we honor their legacy and the terroirs of these grapes – in the way we care for the fruit, by making our wines to the highest standards, and by creating single-vineyard designates.” The arrival of Prohibition in 1920 effectively shut down Napa’s seventy-year-old fledgling wine industry and prompted its vineyard owners to move into prune and wheat farming, cattle ranching, and dairy production. With the end of Prohibition, winemaking made a gradual recovery, but it wasn’t until the 1960s that people again began taking Napa Valley seriously as a wine region. It was the Paris Wine Tasting of 1976, waggishly dubbed the Judgment of Paris, in which California wines bested those of France in the legendary blind tasting, that firmly cast Freemark Abbey as a jewel in Napa Valley’s crown – the only American producer to have both red and white wines selected for the event. “Much of the success of the Paris tasting,” says Dodds, “had to

Bosché 家族的关系将不会被时间冲淡。我们 的农夫非常关心所种葡萄在酒中的表现,所以 认真看待这些葡萄,以最高标准酿造并指定单 一葡萄园,是表达对这些葡萄的来源与养成环 境的尊重,也是我们非常重视的环节。 」

1920 年的禁酒令,让纳帕谷刚起步七十 年的酿酒业受到严重打击,促使许多果园老 板转而改作梅干、小麦、畜牧或是乳品制造。 禁令废止后,酿酒业渐渐复苏,不过一直到

1960 年代,人们才再度视纳帕谷为酿酒区。 后来,1976 年巴黎盲品会 (Paris Wine Tasting

of 1976) 成为一个转折点。在这个被众人戏称 为巴黎评判 ( Judgment of Paris) 的活动中,来 自加州的葡萄酒于著名的盲品项目打败所有来 自法国的美酒,这一幕让 Freemark Abbey 不 只成为唯一红、白酒都入围该次大会的美国酒 庄,更一举拿下纳帕谷之宝的王座。 from the vine

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WINE

Freemark Abbey’s spacious tasting room Freemark Abbey 酒庄宽敞的品酒室

do with Napa Valley’s unique winemaking efforts and style that impressed critics on the world stage. Because wines from Burgundy and Bordeaux were dominating the scene in the US, it meant we had to put more effort into making distinctive chardonnays true to our own terroir in Napa Valley. “This is a much warmer region than Burgundy, so our grape acids are a lot closer to where they need to be at the end of the growing season than theirs are. In Burgundy, the tartness must be mitigated by a process called malolactic fermentation, which converts the tangy malic acid into the much creamier and smoother lactic acid. Our winemaker Brad Webb became the first to put a stop to malolactic fermentation, earning him a spot in the hall of fame and the right to be called the pioneer of chardonnay in California.” Does Dodds, who has seen so many vintages of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, and riesling crafted by Director of Winemaking Ted Edwards, have any memorable favorites? “Every vintage opens a window onto that year’s growing season,” he says. “We always have great quality, so those differences are greeted with open arms at Freemark Abbey as we celebrate the diversity. But having said that, I do have a special affinity for the 1994 and 1995 vintages – the first year marked my marriage, the second, the birth of our son.”

「巴黎盲品会的胜利,其实要归 Barry 说明 : 功于纳帕谷得天独厚的酿造技术与酿酒风格,这样 才能在世界级舞台上,让评审如此印象深刻。来自 勃艮第与波尔多的葡萄酒在当时的美国可谓所向披 靡,因此我们必须种出源自纳帕谷风土环境的、独 一无二的霞多丽葡萄。 」 「这里的气候要比勃艮第温暖的多, Barry 亦说: 所以接近采收季时,葡萄的酸性要比勃艮第的葡萄 更加适合酿酒。在勃艮第,葡萄需依赖苹果酸 – 乳 酸发酵程序以降低酸性,使浓厚的苹果酸转化成更 绵密滑顺的乳酸。我们的酿酒师 Brad Webb 是首位 反对使用苹果酸乳酸发酵程序的先行者,并被誉为 加州霞多丽葡萄先锋,更成为加州名人堂的一员。 」

Barry 尝过酿造总监 Ted Edwards 酿造的各式 赤霞珠、梅洛、霞多丽和雷司令葡萄酒。当被问及 哪一款最难忘时,他回答 : 「每一瓶葡萄酒都能引领 你走入那一年生长季的风风雨雨。因为顶尖品质始 终如一,所以每年的差别 Freemark Abbey 都能欣 然接受,甚至成为多样化的优势。但话说回来,我 其实对 1994 与 1995 年的葡萄酒有特别的亲切感, 因为那两年分别是我走入婚姻与拥有第一个孩子的 年份。 」 from the vine

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一方水土 百种香醇

One Land, A Thousand

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With camera and notebook in hand, Mark Hammons meets with talented winemakers from one of France’s most diverse wine regions.


VINEYARDS

Terroirs


VINEYARDS

Alsace, with its seven major grape varieties and fifty-one grand-cru vineyards, is an exhilarating place for wine lovers. It also presents a stimulating challenge for winemakers, who sometimes encounter a new soil, a new terroir, a new grape, or a new style of wine within just a few steps. Of its total vineyard acreage, 15 percent is dedicated to organic and biodynamic wines, making Alsace the European leader. With some vineyards passed down through fifteen generations or more, there is a conviction among its winegrowers that if they take care of the land, the land will take care of them – and of their children. Winemakers here prize what they call a farmer’s common sense, a practical approach to solving problems and a willingness to experiment and always look for a better way. They know what their neighbors are planting and what consumers are drinking, but they have faith in their own approach and in their personal vision for the future. Alsatian winemakers believe that when they can faithfully express the beauty of their land in a bottle, people will fall in love with what they taste.

阿 尔 萨 斯 拥 有 七 种 主 要 葡 萄 品 种、 五十一座特级酒庄葡萄园,可说是个让 所有爱酒之人大为振奋的地方。对于酿 酒人而言,这里也充满各种令人跃跃欲 试的挑战,每走几步,都有新的土质、 风土条件、葡萄品种或是特色酒品映入 眼帘。 阿尔萨斯所有种植区中,百分之 十五采用有机与生物动力农法酿酒,在 欧洲无人能比。代代相传的葡萄园,有 些已超过十五代。此地的酿酒业界始终 坚信,人只要照顾土地,土地就会提供 相应的回馈,甚至子子孙孙也蒙受其惠。 酿酒人非常重视他们所谓的「农夫 常识」 ,代表解决问题的实用法则和勇 于尝试、精益求精的精神。他们心里都 清楚其他人在种些什么,也了解顾客的 喜好,却选择相信自己的耕种方式与对 未来的独到眼光。 阿尔萨斯酿酒人深信,只要酿出的 酒能忠实展现土地之美,顾客一定会情 不自禁地一口爱上。

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Crémant 指的是瓶中第二次发酵,即是所谓的传统 方法。阿尔萨斯以蒸馏酒闻名,所以法国其他地 方酿造的气泡酒就必须另取一个专属名称,于是

The Cream of the Crémant Nicolas Haeffelin GCF Group

Crémant 就被选中了。Crémant 这个字没有任何意涵, 就是指用传统方法酿造的气泡酒。 法国有八种不同的 AOC Crémant 法定产区酒, 其中 Crémant d’Alsace 堪称最上乘且历史最悠久。 谈及法国人常饮用的酒类,摒除在法国永远畅销的 香槟,物美价廉的气泡酒当属 Crémant d’Alsace。 阿尔萨斯与香槟区的葡萄酒协会曾经连续

CRÉMANT REFERS TO THE ME THOD of a second fermentation in the

bottle, the so-called traditional method. Alsace is known for its distilled wines, so when it came to producing a sparkling wine, other places in France had to find a specific name, and the name that was chosen was Crémant. Crémant doesn’t mean anything – for us it’s just a sparkling wine made using the traditional method. There are eight different AOC Crémants in France; Crémant d’Alsace is the oldest one produced and is considered the best. If you think about what the French people are drinking and you remove Champagne – which is always the top seller on the domestic market – what people are drinking as a cheaper sparkling is Crémant d’Alsace. There was a wine competition two years in a row between the Alsace wine board and the Champagne wine board. They asked both of them to come together and do a tasting of Champagne and Crémant. The first year it was hosted in Champagne, and within the top ten wines were six Crémants and four Champagnes, but the highest Crémant was only classified as number five. The second year, the same competition was held in Alsace. There were seven Crémants in the top ten, and in first, second, fourth, and fifth places were Crémant d’Alsace. After that tasting, there was so much press that they canceled it. To get to Champagne from here only takes two hours, but the climate is very different. The technique used there is quite similar, and they use the same grape varieties that we use here in Alsace, including pinot blanc and chardonnay. The seven other regions producing Crémant are Loire, Bordeaux, Bourgogne, Jura, Savoie, Limoux, and Die. Then there are the sparklings that are made by the traditional method without the name Crémant. For example, Vouvray is made by the traditional method but doesn’t enter the Crémant classification, because the process is not as strict as for Crémant, which is the strictest you can find for sparkling wine in France.

两年举办葡萄酒比赛,双方齐聚一堂试饮香槟和

Crémant。第一年在香槟区举行,在前十名葡萄酒 中有六款 Crémant、四款香槟,但 Crémant 的最好 成绩只是排名第五。 第二年同样的比赛在阿尔萨斯举行,前十名中 有七款 Crémant,第一、第二、第四、第五名都是 当地所产的 Crémant d’Alsace。这场试饮会后,有 不少意见认为评选存在偏袒行为,主办方遭受很大 的舆论压力,最终取消了活动。 从这里到香槟区只需两小时,但气候变化很 大。两个地区使用的技术非常相似,他们使用的葡 萄品种跟阿尔萨斯用的一样,例如白皮诺和霞多 丽。酿造 Crémant 的另有七个地区,分别是卢瓦尔 河流域、波尔多、勃艮第、侏罗、萨瓦、利慕,以 及迪耶。除此之外,还有用传统方式酿造却不称作

Crémant 的气泡酒,例如 Vouvray,虽采用传统酿 造法,却未被归类成 Crémant,原因是其酿造过程 不如 Crémant 严谨。Crémant 的酿造过程是法国气 泡酒当中最严格的。

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Start with the Fruit Séverine Schlumberger Domaines Schlumberger

WE HAVE A HUNDRED AND THIRT Y HEC TARES and are probably the largest privately owned estate. Our challenge is the size and the steepness of our land. I often say we’re not magicians, we’re not technicians, we’re fruit producers. In Burgundy, a domaine can be a négociant , they can buy fruit, but in Alsace, every domaine is 100 percent estate. The domaine has a much higher cost in terms of production, but we can ensure the quality of what we do because we take care of our own fruit. Being a fruit producer is more important in Alsace than anywhere else, because when you look at a grape like pinot gris, if you miss your picking by a few days, it gets overripe and you have a totally different story in your bottle. Picking at the exact right time is absolutely crucial in this region. Here, you have the afternoon sun, and you often have an Indian summer. If it’s warm, your pinot gris can turn around within half a day. So, sometimes we pick four or five different times a year at the perfect ripeness. We’re well known for our classic pinot gris that is mineral and dry – it’s one of the driest in the region because of those exact picking dates. My full grand crus are like children born in the same family – same education, different personalities. Our job is to highlight each personality in the glass. If I have a teenager who doesn’t want to grow up, it’s the Kitterlé. He takes an enormous amount of time to mature, but once he does, he’s better than all the others. My easy explanation of the grapes is to compare them to something people know. Riesling is a grape that reacts like an apple – you have an apple in your kitchen, and no matter when you eat it, it has acidity. Pinot gris reacts like a peach. When you buy a peach, it’s hard and firm, but as the days go by, it gets softer and sweeter. You’ll have different flavors depending on when you eat it. That’s why there’s so much difference between the regular pinot gris and the grand cru. To get the regular pinot gris dry enough to go well with food, we have to be very, very careful on the picking date. The grand cru grapes are picked later, with more concentration, so they’re sweeter. If you have a weather issue in the vineyard, the first grape to suffer is gewurtz. It’s really like an exotic fruit – think of a kiwi or something – when it goes wrong, it just goes wrong. The reason why there’s so much bad gewurtz in the world is because producers are trying to make it in the cellar, and it doesn’t work – gewurtz comes from the fruit.

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我们的酒庄占地 130 公顷, 称得上是最大的私有酒庄。面积大、 坡度陡,

同教育,却有着不同的个性。我们的工作就是突显出它们在酒瓶里的

是我们要面对的挑战。我常说,我们不是魔术师,不是技术员,而是

性格。要说不想长大的青少年当非 Kitterlé 這个产区莫属,他花很长

葡萄生产商。在勃艮第,酒庄常常是收购葡萄的批发商,但在阿尔萨

时间熟成,一旦熟成了,就比其他的更优秀。

斯,每一座酒庄都是百分百的自栽自营庄园。自栽自营的生产成本较 高,但自己栽种葡萄,才能确保生产品质。 在 阿 尔 萨 斯, 自 己 生 产 葡 萄 的 重 要 性 比 其 他 地 方 更 高。 以 灰

如果要简单介绍葡萄,我会跟人们知道的东西一起比较。雷司令 这种葡萄很像苹果,摆在厨房的苹果,不论何时吃酸度都还在 ;灰皮 诺则像桃子,买的时候坚实,但几天过后就变得越软嫩香甜,换言之,

皮诺为例,只要晚几天采收,葡萄就会过熟,酿成的酒就会完全走

在不同时候食用会有不同的风味,这就是为什么一般的灰皮诺酒款跟

样。在这个地区,把握刚刚好的时机采收至关重要。这里有午后阳

特级酒庄的差异这么大。为了让一般灰皮诺酒款的甜度低到适合搭配

光,夏天的感觉与印度颇为相似。如果天气温暖,灰皮诺不到半天

其他食物,我们必须非常、非常谨慎挑选采收日。特级酒庄的葡萄采

就可熟透,所以有时候我们一年内会趁葡萄成熟得刚刚好之际采收

收时间较晚且浓度高,因此它们也比较甜。

四到五次。这里的灰皮诺最出名的典型特性就是拥有矿石气味且不

如果葡萄园遇到气候不佳,最先遭殃的酒类会是琼瑶浆。这种葡

甜,是这个地区最不甜的品种之一,这是在特定日子采收才有的结

萄相当奇特,像奇异果或其它奇特的水果一样,长坏了就一切都毁了。

果。

全世界会有这么多不好的琼瑶浆,就是因为酿酒商想在酒窖里做出好 我所有的特级酒庄葡萄酒都像我的孩子,生于同样家庭,接受相

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品质,但没有用,因为琼瑶浆完全倚赖葡萄本身。


Alsace Expressions Jolene Hunter Domaine Zind Humbrecht

我们始终致力于让不同风土各自展现其独特色彩,而在我们的产区中, 布兰德园拥有最为优雅的风土条件。面向南山坡地、少量排水良好的土 壤,这里具有让葡萄相对早熟的风土条件。当葡萄开始成熟时,酸味会 开始加速减少,糖份也不断增加,因此采收的速度必须加快,时机真的 非常重要。为了完整维持葡萄酒的细腻与优雅,采样测试、掌握作物状 态是至关重要的任务。在 2015 年度,我们做得非常好。我认为这支葡 萄酒相当细腻纯净,酚类化合物的成熟度极佳,这两项惊艳之处,口感

WHAT WE ALWAYS LOOK FOR is the expression of each individual terroir, and Brand is probably the most elegant terroir that we work with. It has south-facing slopes, very light well-drained soil, and it’s a relatively early ripening terroir. In terms of picking, one needs to be very quick, very precise in timing. It can pick up potential alcohol or lose acidity very quickly, so in order to preserve the finesse and the elegance, it’s very important to sample and to know your pastures. In 2015, we did very well. I think there’s a fantastic purity in the wine, a fantastic phenolic ripeness as well that carries the framework to go with the rest of the wine. Riesling is planted on about 40 percent of the total surface area, and at Domaine Zind Humbrecht, we only have riesling planted on the Brand grand cru. Over the generations, it’s just been the best expression of this terroir. It’s the grape variety where you most consistently see the expression of terroir. That’s not to say that you can’t make a great gewurztraminer or a great pinot gris on this terroir, it’s just a lot more difficult, taking into account the natural characteristics of those grape varieties. Riesling is one of the great terroir characters of the world, so when one works with a lot of different grape varieties, to have riesling, to see the variety of different terroirs through the riesling, is definitely an advantage. I think what’s interesting is that Alsace has fantastic diversity of grapes and variety of terroirs. However, to communicate to consumers that we’ve got multiple grape varieties, multiple terroirs, multiple soils, that’s challenging. We’ve got huge diversity, so the message they’re trying to send, I think, is let’s have a certain consistency in our communication. Burgundy is fantastic, but at the end of the day, it’s one soil type, one white grape, and one style – dry wine – and in Alsace, we multiply that exponentially. We have almost every single soil type, a wide variety of grape types, and a great diversity of wine styles, so it’s very difficult to get everybody together to communicate with one focus, and I think that’s where Alsace is at. When you have a consumer looking for terroir-driven wines made in an artisanal way, wines that have a very specific character, I think Alsace offers great value for the money in that sense. And I think looking at the global trade for fine wine and the prices that wine is going for globally, I think that Alsace has situated itself very well, we’re in a good position. But there’s still work to be done.

与香气共同建立了一个完美框架,能够承载这只葡萄酒的更多特色。 雷司令葡萄的种植面积,约占产区总面积的四成,在鸿布列什酒庄, 我们只在布兰德园的特级酒庄栽种雷司令葡萄。历经多个世代,的确证 明了雷司令葡萄是最能呈现此地风土的不二品种。这个葡萄品种经常被 栽种,呈现各地产区的风土滋味。这并不代表不能在这里栽种优质的琼 瑶浆或灰皮诺,只是考量到这些葡萄品种的自然特性,栽种上较为困难。 雷司令葡萄是世界上最伟大的风土特征之一,所以当栽种许多不同的葡 萄品种时,可以透过雷司令葡萄,见识与欣赏各种不同的风土呈现,我 认为这绝对是一大优势。 有趣的是,阿尔萨斯地区拥有相当多种葡萄品种与多样风土条件。 然而,为了与消费者沟通,跟他们说明「我们拥有多种葡萄品种、多样 化的风土、多种土壤成分」 ,这件事其实颇具挑战性。由于此地区蕴含 着庞大多样性,它所传达出的信息,我认为是为了在对外沟通时,取得 一定程度的一致性。勃艮第相当优异,但追根究底,它只有一种土壤成 分、单一白葡萄品种,以及同一种风格,也就是干型葡萄酒 ;在阿尔萨 斯,众多选项相乘出无数特殊风味。这里几乎拥有各种土壤类型、各式 各样的葡萄品种,以及千变万化的葡萄酒风格,所以很难将所有人都聚 在一起,进行单一焦点的交流,我认为这就是阿尔萨斯。 然而,若有位消费者想要寻找以熟练酿酒技术呈现当地风土的葡 萄酒,想在葡萄酒中追求一种特定风味,我认为阿尔萨斯产区的葡萄酒, 能够给予消费者物超所值的享受。再加上在全球葡萄酒贸易与葡萄酒价 格的前景之下,我认为阿尔萨斯产区占有一席良好地位,我们处于有利 地位。当然我们仍须努力不懈。

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Fourteen Generations of Riesling Christian and Valérie Beyers Domaine Emile Beyer

雷司令对我们来说特别重要,因为十五世纪时第一批雷司令白 酒产于阿尔萨斯,所以我们特别拿手。经过六百年的淬炼,我 们拥有制作雷司令最专业的本领,而且雷司令是以展现出葡萄 栽种当地土壤的风味而闻名。我已经是家族第十四代,我们家 的故事始于十六世纪末,当时我们家族就住在城堡前的房子, 两百年来右边那栋房子都属于我们家。

R I E S L I N G I S E S P E C I A L LY I M P O R TA N T T O U S . Alsace

除了做出好酒,和生意伙伴维系真诚的关系对出口生意很

planted its first tract of it in the fifteenth century, so we really have an expertise. Through six hundred years, we’ve mastered riesling, which is known to show the best expression of the soil where it’s growing. I’m actually the fourteenth generation – the story of our family began at the end of the sixteenth century. We lived in that house just in front of us by the castle, and for two hundred years, the one on the right has been our family house. Apart from making great wine, building true relationships with our business partners is important for our export business. We meet our partners many times a year – we just had a distributor visit us from the US for two and a half days. At the end of the week, on our own initiative, we took them around and showed them everything. We toured the area and let them breathe in the air and get their impression of the region. Alsace is very rich in history – we’ve been growing wine since at least the second century. It’s been about eighteen hundred years since the Romans created their architecture, which is considered the crown of the winegrowing regions of France. In showing a bottle of wine, we talk professionally about the quality, acidity, food pairing, diversity of aging, but people also have to feel some emotion and maybe experience the culture and atmosphere of this place. And that’s what we try to do when people come visit us – we explain professionally about the wine, but we also want to show them that Alsace is great. We talk about the history, culture, landscape, architecture, and how wine is a complement to the region. We’re winemakers, but many of us, including me, consider ourselves futurists. The biggest part of the job is expressing ourselves organically and being respectful of the planet and of the soil – nature provides the best expression. We’re certified organic, and we’ll be certified environmentally friendly by next year – it’s something we’re working on. Caring for the environment is very important to us.

重要。我们每年会和生意伙伴见面数次,最近才刚有从美国来 拜访的经销商,待了两天半,行程最后我们主动带他们逛了所 有地方,让他们能呼吸这个地区的空气,对这区留下印象。阿 尔萨斯历史悠久,自第二世纪以来就从事酿酒,罗马人建城至 今已约 1,800 年,该区被视为法国酿酒成就最高的地方。 展示一瓶酒时,我们会专业地介绍它的品质、酸度、陈化 后风味多样性、适合搭配的食物,但是人们也必须感受这个地 方的情感、文化及氛围。所以有人来拜访时,我们不只专业地 讲解每支酒,也会向他们展现阿尔萨斯有多美好,聊聊这里的 历史、文化、景观、建筑,以及雷司令白酒如何使阿尔萨斯更 加完整。

我们是酿酒师,但很多人,尤其是我,认为自己是未来学 家,这个工作很大一部分是自然地展现自己,尊重地球和这片 土地,大自然本身就是最佳的呈现。我们已经得到有机认证, 明年会获得环保认证,目前正在努力。我们很在乎环境,这很 重要。

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A Different Kind of Coop David Jaegle Cave de Ribeauvillé

有时候大家会说 : 「喔!你们是合作社,很抱歉但我喜欢好酒。 」 所以我们需要有人品尝、比较,大部分人都会为我们的酒以及管 理葡萄园、葡萄栽种者和酒的方式感到惊艳。我们的酿酒师是一 位女性,名字是 Evelyn,非常厉害,有很多才能,做得很好。 我们是法国最老的合作社,成立于 1895 年,一直以来也是最 小的合作社。因为重点不在于我们管理几公顷的地,我们总共有

235 公顷,所以要管理和产出好酒所需的高品质葡萄相当容易。我 们从未使用机器采收,从来没有。我们是法国唯一 100% 人工采 收的合作社。

2004 年,我们的葡萄栽种者签署永续农业品质许可证,并 有十五公顷农地属有机栽种。我们合作社能拥有如此独具的特色, 主要是因为我们筛选土壤的过程非常严格 :每 100 米就有截然不 同的土壤结构,例如石灰岩、沙岩、黏土等各种土质。每年,我 们会生产七十四款葡萄酒,包括距酒庄建地五公里内的八款特级 酒庄葡萄酒。我们所用的葡萄由三十九位葡萄栽种者提供,他们 是合作社的一份子,拥有部分不同区域的特级酒庄葡萄产地。我 们运作模式就像酒庄一样。2016 年我们获得年度酒庄的称号。

SOME TIMES PEOPLE SAY, “Oh, you’re a cooperative – I’m sorry, but I like good wines.” That’s why we need people to taste and compare, and very often they’re impressed with our wine and with how we’re managing our vineyards, our vine growers, and our wines. Our winemaker, Evelyn, is very, very skilled, she has a lot of talent, she does a great job. We run the oldest cooperative in France. It was created in 1895, but we remain one of the smallest, because it’s not about how many hectares we manage. It’s 235 hectares, and it’s easy to manage to produce high-quality grapes for good wines. We never use mechanical harvesting, never – we’re the only cooperative in France that harvests 100 percent by hand. Since 2004, our growers sign a quality charter for sustainable farming, and fifteen hectares are now organically farmed as well. The specificity of our company is mainly because we make a very tough plot selection – 100 meters further the soil structure will be absolutely different, so we will have limestone, sandstone, clay, we have so many things. Every year we produce seventy-four different wines, including from eight different grand crus within five kilometers of our building. Our grapes come from our thirty-nine vine growers, they own our company, and they own a few parts of these fields in the grand cru areas, one here, another there. We’re really working like an estate. In 2016, we were named winery of the year.


The Future of Indigenous Grapes Arnaud Baur Domaine Charles Baur

我们从祖父 Charles Baur 那代就已经开始酿酒。这里的土壤 主要成分是沙子和花岗岩,赋予葡萄酒一种咸味的口感。土 壤带有一些结晶,非常优雅。雷司令是最适合在花岗岩土壤 上栽种的葡萄,它最能带出土壤的特色,而花岗岩土壤极富 特色,雷司令和花岗岩的搭配非常适合。 许 多 人 不 看 好 传 统 的 地 区 葡 萄 品 种, 像 是 西 万 尼 ,但是我认为西万尼会再次流行。有许多历史悠 (Sylvaner) 久的西万尼葡萄园产量小,但是能带出土壤的特定特质。我 ,酿造卡利农需要葡萄的鲜度, 有点担心卡利浓(Carignane) 所以必须气候凉爽。随着气温上升,我很担心鲜度会下降, 不过目前的气候状况对酿造卡利农来说依然是相当合适。 雷司令葡萄很能呈现土壤风味,所以我们想告诉全世界, 阿尔萨斯能提供最多种类的白酒。我们常自许要勤于审视过 去,为明日奋斗努力,保有尊重自身价值的信念。

WE’V E B E E N B OT T L I N G WI N E since the time of my grandfa-

ther, Charles Baur. The land here is composed mostly of sand and granite, which gives the wine a kind of saltiness on the palate. It’s very crystalline, very elegant. Riesling is the perfect grape for granite, because riesling really brings out the characteristics of the soil in the wine, and granite has good characteristics. Riesling and granite go well together. Many people are pessimistic about traditional local grapes like sylvaner, but I think that it could make a comeback. We have many old sylvaner vineyards with a smaller production that are able to bring out the particular qualities of the soil. I’m a bit scared for carignane, because you need some freshness in the grapes, and so it’s better to have a cool climate. As temperatures rise, I’m worried that we’ll lose some of that freshness, but we still have a very good climate at the moment for carignane. Riesling is really the grape that can bring out the particular qualities of the soil, and we want to show the world that Alsace is the future of white wine diversity. We have a saying that we want to review the past, work for the future, and continue to respect who we are.

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More from Less Jean-Paul and Marie Zusslin Domaine Valentin Zusslin

W E H A V E B E E N G R A D U A L LY lowering our yield

over the past 20 years in order to focus on quality. Our goal is to create the purest expression of the terroir, and to do that we need to ask the vines to go deeper into the soil and to produce less. This allows the grapes to express their full potential and the unique terroirs of the domaine, which was established in 1691. Another important decision was to turn to biodynamic farming in 1997. Most of the work in the vineyard and cellar is done by hand, and we’ve started using horses again in the vineyards. We have constructed 150 bird nests on the vineyards so that we don’t need to use any insecticides. We don’t interfere during fermentation and aging or use any synthetic chemicals or treatments. A very low dose of sulfur is used to preserve some of the wines, and some are 100 percent natural – no chemicals or added sulfites, just grapes. The vineyard has three distinct terroirs and nine grape varieties. Our Bollenberg vineyard, which also serves as a nature reserve, is particularly suited to pinot noir. Clos Liebenberg is planted with riesling on terraces surrounded by stone walls. The Grand Cru Pfingstberg benefits from an ideal microclimate. Our grandfather, Valentin Zusslin, planted it in the ’50s, knowing that riesling would be in perfect harmony with the terroir.

过去二十年来,为了种出最好的葡萄,我们一步步减 少葡萄产量,目标是将种植区的风土条件,完全体现 在葡萄上。因此,葡萄藤的根需要扎得更深并减少产 量。这样一来,葡萄的潜力便能充分发挥,并且鲜明 地展现出这座 1691 年创立的酒庄的独特风土条件。 另一项重大决策是在 1997 年采用生物动力农法。 绝大多数在葡萄园及酒窖的工作皆采用人力,连工作 用马匹都再次引进葡萄园里。150 座人工鸟巢也已竣 工,因此不再需要使用杀虫剂。 我们不干涉发酵和熟成的过程,也不使用合成化 学物质或进行特殊处理,只有某些酒品中加入极微量 的硫以防止腐化,部分酒品更保证是百分之百纯天然, 完全不添加任何化学物质或亚硫酸盐,只有葡萄的纯 粹滋味。 葡萄园内拥有三种不同风土条件的种植区与九种 葡萄品种。Bollenberg 种植区亦属自然保护区,是最 适合黑皮诺生长的环境 ;Clos Liebenberg 种植区是被 石墙包围的阶梯状田野,种植着雷司令。The Grand

Cru Pfingstberg 则拥有得天独厚的微气候。我们的祖 父 Valentin Zusslin 深知此处的风土条件是专为雷司令 葡萄而生,因此在五零年代种下第一颗种子。

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VINEYARDS

Noble Diversity Myriam Haag Domaine Jean-Marie Haag

WE’RE AT THE HEART of Alsace’s Noble Valley, named for families of the nobility

who built castles here from the eleventh to the sixteenth century. Our seven hectares of old vines, mostly white grapes, comprise thirty-six plots across six areas. This diversity lets us adapt the grape varieties to specific microclimates, soils, subsoils, orientations, and environments for a unique expression of each terroir. We produce an average of fifty thousand bottles a year, 12 percent reds from pinot noir grapes and 88 percent whites, including 15 percent Alsace Grands Crus. Our tract on Grand Cru Zinnkoepflé is a sunny place, facing south. Zinnkoepflé is the highest Alsace Grand Cru, but it is protected by the crest of the Vosges chain, which forms a massive barrier. We even have some vegetation like that near the Mediterranean Sea. We work with a small tractor, because we have up to a 40 percent slope on Zinnkoepflé. On the bottom is sandstone with a middle stratum of limestone and sandstone. The main grapes we grow there are gewurztraminer, pinot gris, and riesling. Although sylvaner is not classified as a grand cru variety, and a lot of winemakers are taking it out, it is a popular grape, and I think it really has its place here in the Zinnkoepflé. The minerality of the soil plays an important role, giving body to our sylvaner. 我们正站在阿尔萨斯 Noble Valley 的中心地带, 因十一至十六世纪时有贵族在此兴建城堡而得名。 这里共有七公顷的老葡萄藤,多数为白葡萄,可 细分为三十六块田地,横跨六个区域。 因为有如此精细的划分,我们得以依风土条 件选定最适宜的微气候、土质、底土、定向与环 境,来栽种各种独特的葡萄品种。我们的年均葡 萄酒产量约五万瓶,其中百分之十二为黑皮诺酿 造的红葡萄酒、百分之八十八为白葡萄酒,而有 百分之十五为阿尔萨斯特级酒庄葡萄酒。 位于 Zinnkoepflé 特级葡萄园的种植区面向 南方,阳光明媚。Zinnkoepflé 是阿尔萨斯特级酒 庄葡萄园中最高的一座,被孚日山脉包围着,形 成一道巨大的天然屏障。此区甚至可见如地中海 区的植被。因为地形为将近二十二度的陡坡,我 们使用一种小型拖拉机来执行各项工作。种植区 的砂岩地层中间混有石灰岩与砂岩。 此区主要种植的葡萄品种有琼瑶浆、灰皮诺 和雷司令。而西万尼葡萄虽然未够资格称为特级 酒庄葡萄园品种,酿酒师亦将它剔除于名单外, 但它的人气依然居高不下,因此我认为西万尼在

Zinnkoepflé 仍占有一席之地。此区土壤中含有的 矿物扮演要角,赋予西万尼优越的酒体。

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The Power of Biodynamics Christophe Ehrhart Domaine Martin Schaetzel

MY FAMILY HAVE BEEN GROWERS since the seventeenth century, so I’m the eleventh generation, but I came late to this job. I was nearly thirty when I married Isabel Meyer and had to learn about the job. I was at agriculture school – I’m now a teacher there – and I was taught about chemical fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides. Something was missing – to produce too many grapes and then have to try to protect them from rot was, for me, illogical. You spend money and time, you poison the soil and the environment and yourself – it doesn’t make sense to me. So I asked myself if there was another way. I’d heard about organic, but then I heard about biodynamics in France at the Royal Banquet. Since I’m also German-speaking, I started studying, and for me it was just more logical. It was a question of balance and understanding how the soil is working and understanding how the vines and plants are working and being aware of everything that is going on, because the plant, the vine, is totally exposed and can’t escape. If there’s too much rain or too much sun, we can escape, move into the shade, but plants are totally submissive to their environment. When you understand that, you can try to make the vineyards work as well as possible in their natural way. It starts with understanding how the roots go down and how the vines are growing, how you can help them, ensuring that all the plants are flowering, having some trees in the vineyard, and trying to develop an ecosystem. I heard about that at school and said, OK, if I work in a vineyard, I’ll do it in a biodynamic way – and I started the conversion of the estate. Biodynamic means, first of all, just good sense. When you’re organic, you don’t use chemicals – that’s fine and good – but when you’re biodynamic, you don’t use any chemicals, but instead use plants as medicine, you practice homeopathy. You use nettle tea, horsetail decoctions, you use plants in very small quantities to help keep the vines as healthy as possible. It’s as though you asked children to grow too fast or did bodybuilding with steroids – when you stop, you have a problem, and that’s the problem with conventional agriculture. We push tomatoes to grow in a hydroponic sodium solution – they never feel the soil, they never see the sun. They have the shape of a tomato, but they have no taste, they don’t keep, and they’re not very good in terms of energy for you. So it’s just good sense to grow nice tomatoes – you need to give them time to grow properly and attain a natural ripeness. It’s the same for the vines – good food is

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made from fruits and vegetables that are grown naturally, not over-irrigated or overfed. The big difference between organic and biodynamic is that organic means no chemicals but biodynamics uses some specific preparations to bring the vines to their best state of balance. Here in Alsace, we started strong because we’re close to Germany and Switzerland, we’re German-speaking, most of us, and the headquarters of the biodynamics movement is here in Colmar. There were a few pioneers in Alsace who were biodynamic since 1969, but it was at the end of the ’90s that you had a lot of growers and estates moving to biodynamic at the same time that I started to convert my own estate. Today, I think 18 percent of Alsatian vineyards are organic and biodynamically certified, and what is quite special about it is that in Alsace you have more people who are biodynamically certified than just organically certified. Even those who aren’t certified are making some biodynamic preparations, because they can see the results. The soil has better resistance to erosion – it’s more lively, with more diversity, more insects, and more seeds.


VINEYARDS

我们家族自十七世纪就开始酿酒,我是第十一代,但我很晚

如果雨水太多,或是阳光太强,人还可以躲到阴影处,

才踏入这一行。我和 Isabel Meyer 结婚时已经快要三十岁,

但是植物完全受环境影响,了解这些道理后就可以尽可能地

从那时候才开始学习。当时我去过农业学校,现在我在那里

试着让葡萄园以自然的方式生长。首先要知道根是如何向下

教书,我在那里学到化学肥料、除草剂、杀虫剂等,但我觉

延伸、葡萄树如何生长、你可以怎么帮忙,以确保所有植物

得欠缺某样东西,栽种过多葡萄,再来试图避免它们腐坏,

都会开花,在葡萄园里种一些树,试着建立一个生态系统。

对我来说很不合理。你花了时间和金钱,来毒害土地、环境

我在学校听说过这些,所以我想说,好,如果我在葡萄园工

和你自己,我觉得完全说不通。

作,我要采用生物动力学,于是就这样开始改造酒庄。

所以我问自己,有没有其他方法?我之前听说过有机,

生物动力学首先意味着正确的观念。秉持有机的人,不

后来又在法国的皇家晚宴接触到生物动力学。因为我会德文,

会使用化学制品,这样很好,但采取生物动力学时不使用化

所以就开始研究这个主题,这对我来说就合理许多。这个理

学,而是采用同种疗法,利用植物作为药剂。我们会使用荨

念主要是关于平衡以及了解土壤、葡萄树、植物如何生长,

麻茶、马尾草汤,少量使用植物,来维护葡萄园健康。

并留意周遭一切,因为植物、葡萄树是完全暴露在外,也不 可能移动。

这就像你要孩子长得太快,或是使用类固醇雕塑身型, 一旦停止就开始出现问题,而这就是传统农业的问题所在。

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We create bird nests, because one bird family will eat a hundred and fifty thousand insects during a generation. It’s a natural insecticide and it’s free – just provide them with a good hotel room that you clean once a year, and it’s fine. There are also benefits to the wine – we don’t add sugar or enzymes or yeast. My job is to make the bestbalanced grapes, and then the winemaking is very easy, because you just have to bring this balance of the grapes into the bottling of the natural wine. If you want to be convinced of the difference between a conventional wine and a good biodynamic wine, take a bottle by yourself and drink it slowly – in a place where you don’t have to drive, maybe at home – maybe even drink two bottles. In the morning, the body is aware that you’ve been drinking a little bit, but the body accepts the alcohol level in this wine much better than if you’d drunk the same amount of conventional wine. If you try the same

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experiment with conventional wine, you’ll see the difference in the morning with the hangover, and it’s amazing. It isn’t from any difference in the alcohol level, it’s that biodynamic wines are much more easily accepted by your body – they have a kind of energy because everything comes only from the fruit. Today, there’s a big movement toward natural wines without any sulfur. It can be great, but it can also be difficult to achieve. I use as little as possible, but we use a little. One reason is to have a wine that can travel and another is to have a wine that can age. Very natural wine without any sulfites can be interesting, but it’s like raw milk. I mean, raw milk is very healthy and very good, but I can’t send it to Hong Kong, because by the time it gets there, it will be cheese. It’s too risky, so I use a little sulfur in our wines so that it will taste fine and proper and also so that it can age a little bit. I think that it’s important for people to be able to make


VINEYARDS

当你把番茄放在水溶性钠溶液里加速生长,从来没接触 过土壤,没晒过太阳,最后虽然长得像番茄,却没有番 茄的味道,所以很容易坏,也不是很好的能量来源。 所以说,种好的番茄需要正确观念,要给番茄时间 好好成长,达到自然熟成。葡萄树也是一样,一道好菜 需要选用自然栽种的水果和蔬菜当食材,这些食材不经 历过度灌溉或过度施肥。有机和生物动力学的一大差别 在于 :有机代表无化学,生物动力学则是利用配制药剂 让葡萄树达到最佳平衡状态。 在阿尔萨斯,生物动力学发展得不错,因为这里很 靠近德国和瑞士,大部分人都会说德文,生物动力学运 动的总部就在科尔马。有几位先驱者来自阿尔萨斯,自

1969 年就开始推行生物动力学,但是直到 90 年代末, 才有许多葡萄栽种者和酒庄加入这个行列,我也是当时 开始转变我的酒庄。现在,我相信阿尔萨斯大概 18% 的 葡萄园是有机和生物动力学认证,特别的是拥有生物动 力学认证的比有机认证还要多。就算是非认证,也制作 生物动力学配制药剂,因为他们看得到使用后的成果。 土壤更不易受侵蚀,所以更有活性,多样性高,含 有更多昆虫、种子。我们也帮鸟筑巢,因为一个鸟巢里 的鸟一个世代可以吃掉十五万只昆虫,是天然的杀虫剂, 也免费,只要提供住的地方,一年打扫一次就好了。 这对酒也有许多好处。我们不加任何糖、酶或酵母。 作为酿酒师,我的工作是种出拥有最完美平衡的葡萄, 接下来酿酒就会很容易,因为我只需要把这葡萄的平衡 风味呈现在瓶中自然制作而成的酒里。 如果想要彻底了解传统酿酒和生物动力学酿酒的差 别,可以拿一瓶酒,在不需要开车的状况下,慢慢喝, 也可以喝两瓶。隔天早上身体状况会反映你喝了一些酒, 但是比没喝前状况要好,因为身体吸收这瓶酒的酒精程 度比喝等量传统酿酒的程度还好。如果你喝的是传统酿 酒,隔天早上会宿醉,差别很明显。这样的差别不是来 自酒精浓度高低,而是采生物动力学所酿的酒较易被身 体接受,也富含能量,因为每一滴酒都是来自水果。 现在有股风潮是自然酿酒,不添加任何硫。虽然很 好,但要做到也可能很困难。我尽量能少用硫就少用, 但还是会加少许。原因之一是这样的酒经得起长途运输,

a distinction between terroir wines that maybe contain a little bit of sulfite to be able to keep and natural wines without protection that are totally oxidized. The winemaker or winegrower may say that it’s an expression of the terroir – no, that’s not terroir, it’s oxidation. And, of course, being a biodynamic wine doesn’t necessarily make it a good wine. A biodynamic wine is a wine made without chemicals, but it has to be made by winegrowers and winemakers who do a proper job in the vineyard and in the cellar. I think that biodynamic work is simply a more evolved way to let the wine express the soil, the grape variety, the vintage, and the feelings of the winegrower. And I think that it’s really successful when you bring this achievement into the bottle and you have wines that may not always be the best in terms of maturation but are much more authentic.

也能放置陈化。以极度自然的手法酿造、无添加任何硫 的酒,很有意思,但它就像生乳一样。生乳很健康也很好, 但是我不能把它运到香港,因为等送到香港,就变奶酪了。 这样风险太高了,所以我们的酒还是会加一点硫,喝起 来味道还是很好,也能放比较久。 大家能够分辨带有风土条件、加了一点硫所以能保 存较久的酒,和没有任何保护、自然酿造、完全氧化的 酒之间的差别很重要。有些葡萄栽种者和酿酒师或许会 说,自然酿酒因氧化产生的味道是这支酒风土条件所产 生的气味,但那并不是因为风土条件,而是氧化造成。 当然,生物动力学酿造的酒并非一定是好酒。采用这个 方法酿的酒不添加任何化学物质,但也依赖葡萄栽种者 和酿酒师在葡萄园和酒窖的努力。 我认为,生物动力学能让葡萄酒完全展现这片土地 风味、葡萄种类、酿酒年份和酿酒师的情感。我觉得当 你能把这些元素带进一瓶酒里,就成功了。这样的酒虽 然以熟成度来说不是最顶尖,但是却更真实。 from the vine

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A L S A C E , with its historic Germanic con-

Natural Wine for the World Bruno Schueller Domaine Gérard Schueller

I T ’ S H A R D TO S AY W H Y the Japanese are especially fond of my wine. When I began to work in Japan, I asked my partners there why they came to me. They said sometimes you can find the fifth flavor, umami – it’s very unusual and very difficult to find – and when you find it, it meets a very big need in Japan. For me, Japan is a place where I find the best wine critics, the best wine tasters. I’d like to sell more in France, but many of the best restaurants in France don’t want to buy our wine. But we work with Noma, with the Roca brothers in Spain. People change, and the world of wine is changing. It’s been more than twenty years since I worked with sulfites. We take what the weather gives us and our wine shows the weather. It’s easy to make the same wine every year by playing with the yeast, sugar, and acidity, but for me, it’s not a good way to make wine. You can’t drink the label, and the winemaker is the first consumer – those were the first two lessons my father taught me.

很难说为什么日本人特别喜欢我们酿的酒。我刚开始在日本工作的时候,问我那里的 生意伙伴说为什么会买我们的酒,他们说第五种味道,鲜味,非常独特且很难找到, 但是如果找到,就能满足广大日本人的需求。 对我来说,日本有最棒的酒评家和品酒家,我也想提升在法国的销售量,但是 许多法国最好的餐厅并不想买我们的酒。如今我们已经和「Noma」餐厅以及西班牙 「Roca brothers」餐厅合作。人会变,葡萄酒界也正在转变。 我已经超过二十年没有在制酒时使用亚硫酸盐,我们的酒忠实地呈现气候最原 本的样貌。如果使用酵母、糖、酸度,每年酿出一样的酒很容易,但对我来说,那不 是酿酒的好方法。大家喝的不是标签上的名字、酿酒师是第一位顾客,这是我父亲教 我的两个道理。

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nections, is the only French AOC region to produce mostly varietal wines, although some labeled as such are permitted to contain more than a single variety. Whites overwhelmingly predominate, with riesling the perpetual star. The riesling grape’s unrivaled ability to express Alsace’s wide diversity of terroirs in the narrow growing region between the Vosges Mountains and the Rhine has given it a special place in the hearts of serious winemakers. It yields the elegantly fresh dry wines with subtlety and finesse that Alsace is most renowned for. Slow growing, the fruit ripens best with cool nights and prefers not-too-rich soil and lots of sunshine. Ranking second in total production is gewurztraminer, highly aromatic, spicy, and capable of delivering lush, full-bodied wines. It is one of four grapes, along with riesling, muscat, and pinot gris, that may be labled as coming from one of Alsace’s fifty-one grand cru vineyard parcels. Pinot gris, with its complex perfume, can yield a wide range of fine wines both dry and sweet. It offers earth, spice, and floral aromas often compared to mushrooms, peaches, honey, and ginger. It likes chalky soils and dry, sunny summers. Auxerrois blanc, a sibling of chardonnay, is often blended into wines labeled “pinot blanc” and is widely used in Crémant d’Alsace, the region’s popular sparkling wine. As Alsace’s up-and-coming lone red grape variety, pinot noir has seen plantings on the rise as temperatures have risen over recent decades. The region’s wines from this grape, with their light and lavishly fruity character and milder tannins, are perfect for drinking young. The vines prefer temperate conditions and limestone and clay soils. Sylvaner, the traditional workhorse grape of Alsace, has a reputation for often producing bland whites of little distinction, and for that reason, plantings are on the decline. In expert hands, it is capable of lively fresh wines. Pinot blanc, the white varietal of pinot noir, yields a fine balance between rounded fullness and fresh acidity. It is the most common grape used in Crémant d’Alsace. Two types of muscat grapes are grown in Alsace: muscat d’Alsace and muscat ottonel. Their wines are fresh and dry, ideal as aperitifs.


Alsace Grape Varieties

阿尔萨斯,一个在历史上与日耳曼血缘密不可分的区域,也是法 国境内唯一主产单品种葡萄酒的法定产区,尽管有些标示为法定 产区的酒,也有可能含有一种以上的葡萄,然而绝大部分,都是 历久不衰的雷司令白酒葡萄独占鳌头。 窄长的阿尔萨斯种植区,位于孚日山脉和莱茵河之间,其水 土环境丰富的多样性,呈现出雷司令葡萄无与伦比的特性,因此 在多位重量级酿酒大师心中,占据着特殊的地位。白酒优雅清新 的轻甜与微妙而柔顺的口感,正是阿尔萨斯产品最远近驰名的特 质。凉爽的夜晚、适当养份的土壤和充足的阳光,是葡萄缓慢熟 成过程中最理想的条件。 琼瑶浆是种植区中第二高产的葡萄品种,带有浓厚香气和辛 辣口感,适合酿造香甜厚重的酒品,更是与雷司令、麝香、灰皮 诺并列为产自阿尔萨斯五十一个特级酒庄葡萄园之一的葡萄。 灰皮诺带有多层次的芬芳,不论是酿造甜或不甜的葡萄酒都 很适合。特有的泥土、香料和花草香气,常与蘑菇、蜜桃、蜂蜜 和生姜做比较。白垩土质与干燥晴朗的夏季最有利于它的生长。 欧塞瓦是霞多丽的姊妹品种,通常用来与标有「白皮诺」的 葡萄酒混和,也在阿尔萨斯地区有名的气泡酒 Crémant d’Alsace 中广泛使用。 黑皮诺作为新兴的红葡萄酒品种,种植区又因气温逐年上升 而渐趋扩大栽种。使用此种葡萄所酿的酒,口感非常轻盈,带有 浓郁果香与温和单宁,非常适合作为新酒饮用。温和的气候与石 灰岩黏质土壤是最佳的生长环境。 阿尔萨斯传统的主力葡萄是西万尼,常用来酿造较平实、轻 淡的白葡萄酒, 基于此因, 种植区正日渐减少。然而在专家的手中, 依然可以酿出清爽新鲜的酒品。 白皮诺正是黑皮诺的白色品种,带有介于饱满浑厚与新鲜天 然之间恰到好处的平衡酸性,是目前 Crémant d’Alsace 中最常用 的葡萄。 阿尔萨斯有两种麝香葡萄,分别是阿尔萨斯麝香与奥托奈麝 香。这两种葡萄酿制的酒,既清新又不过甜,非常适合作为开胃酒。


Making Wines for Myself Jean-Marie Bechtold Domaine Bechtold


VINEYARDS

MY PROBLEM WITH BIODYNAMICS goes way back, because I read the book by Rudolf Steiner twenty years ago, and it was completely blocking me. My first thought when I read it was, I don’t know what this guy was on when he wrote it – was he smoking something? In French it’s called Le Cours aux Agriculteurs , “the course for farmers.” The book explains the role of each planet in the solar system, and it’s really the introduction of biodynamics – it was Rudolf Steiner who created this idea. OK, I’m not an antichrist of biodynamics, I practice it, I just prefer to create my own philosophy of biodynamics. My vision is more practical, not an intellectual concept, but something I can use every day and also something I can explain to somebody who doesn’t know about biodynamics. It’s nice to say that Venus is more influential than Mars, but it’s only a concept we have in our brains. Sure, the other planets have an influence on life, but to quantify it, I cannot. There’s another way of approaching biodynamics, another side that I can understand. I’m trying to find balance – if I respect my vines, they’ll give me something better, because they’re living and they have a kind of intelligence. We may not understand them for the moment, they cannot communicate with us, but I think that if we respect them, they will reciprocate. I produced some sweet wines, sweet riesling, sweet pinot gris, fifteen years ago, and they all sat in my cellar, I never drank them. This was a problem, so I decided to produce my wines dry. When I turned forty-five, I decided I’d work for my own pleasure and produce wines I like and sell them. I produced pinot gris with one gram of sugar, almost zero. Maybe I’m alone in Alsace at the moment, but in five years maybe someone will follow me, because cellars are filled with sweet wines that nobody drinks. When you taste a dry riesling, for example, you can drink it every day. Sometimes I compare it to a woman – when you see a made-up blonde in a miniskirt, maybe you can have a nice moment, but you can’t get married. I prefer to have wines I can drink every day – it’s like having a soulmate. I respect the winemakers in Alsace who are pushing the envelope and experimenting with natural wines. You take some risks in producing that kind of wine. It’s like buying a Ferrari that you can’t use on the normal roads. Yes, all is risky. It’s risky to drive a Ferrari in this industry, it’s risky to let some wine stay seven years in a barrel. But I think that my madness is not your madness. I think that the interesting humans are the ones with some slight madness. The other ones are like sheep, everybody follows the other ones. Not interesting. We are the richest humans on this planet, and sometimes we can realize our dreams and not only work for money. Some work for money, for power, I prefer to imagine something and create and be happy. What’s important is to create an emotion with our life, and the wine will receive that emotion. Tasting good wine, being in good company, that is interesting. I know some winemakers, colleagues, who always produce good wine, every year, but they only produce good wine. If you’re not creative, not a bit artistic, you can’t produce great wine, because something is missing. To take a risk and produce something great, you sometimes need to have a feeling and take a small chance.

我对生物动力学的认知可以追溯回二十年前,那时我读到

Rudolf Steiner 所写的书,但它让我非常困惑。我读这本书 时的第一个想法是「我实在搞不懂这个人在写作时究竟发生 什么事。 」难道他嗑药了吗? 这本书的法文书名 Le Cours aux Agriculteurs,意思是 「给农人的课程」 。书中阐释了太阳系中每个行星的角色作 用,引入了「生物动力学」,这是由 Rudolf Steiner 所创造 的理念。好吧,我承认我不是生物动力学的反对者,我实施 生物动力学农法,只是我更倾向于创造符合我个人哲学的生 物动力学农法。我对生物动力学的看法更为实际,它不是知 识份子口中的学术概念,而是我每天都可以使用的东西,而 且是我可以向不熟悉生物动力学的人清楚解释的东西。我们 可以认为金星比火星更具有影响力,但这件事只是大脑中的 一个概念。当然, 其他行星的运行对地球上的生物产生影响, 但是要如何量化其影响力?我办不到。 还有另一种接近生物动力学的方式,一种我能够理解 的方式。我试图从中取得平衡,如果我尊重我的葡萄藤, 它们将会回报我更好的东西,这是因为它们是活着的,它 们有一种关于生命的智慧。我们可能无法立即理解,也无 以相互沟通,但我相信,只要给予作物尊重,它们定会有 所回报。 十五年前,我曾经酿过几款甜酒、甜的雷司令和甜的 灰皮诺,它们都被存放在酒窖里,我不曾饮过一滴。这是 个很大的问题,所以我决定酿造不带甜味的葡萄酒。当我 四十五岁时,我决定为自己而工作,我要酿造符合我个人喜 好的葡萄酒,然后将它们销售出去。我酿了一款灰皮诺葡萄 酒,只加了少少一克糖,酒中几乎无糖份。也许在目前的阿 尔萨斯产区,我的酿造理念形单影只,或许,五年后会有人 追随我的理念,因为酒窖里装满了没人愿意一喝的甜酒。当 品尝过干爽清俊的雷司令之后,每天喝上一杯也不腻。有时 候我会将葡萄酒比作女人,遇上一位穿着火辣、画好全妆的 金发女伶,也许能与她有几场浪漫时刻,却不可能与她结婚, 朝夕相守。我更希望葡萄酒是日常的,淡爽可口,就像拥有 一位知心的灵魂伴侣。 在阿尔萨斯地区,有些酿酒师积极挑战,试验天然葡 萄酒。我相当尊敬他们。在酿造这种葡萄酒时可能要负担一 些风险。这好比拥有一辆拉风的法拉利跑车,却不能在普通 道路上畅快奔驰。没错,一切都有风险。在酿酒产业中驾驶 法拉利很冒险,让葡萄酒在酒桶中待上七年之久也有风险。 但我的疯狂可不是你眼中的疯狂,我认为真正有趣的 人们,骨子里都会透出一点疯狂。其他的人们,就像绵羊一 样乖乖从众。真没意思。你知道吗?我们真是这个星球上最 富足的人,我们不只是为了赚钱而活着,我们有时还可以实 现梦想。有些人为了钱权而辛劳,但我更喜欢去想像一些东 西,将之创造出来,然后为此感到快乐。在我们的生活中创 造一种情感,让葡萄酒去盛载这份情感。品尝佳酿、服务于 优秀企业,这就有趣多了。 我认识一些酿酒师、一些同业,他们每年都会酿造优 秀的葡萄酒,但他们也只会生产优秀的葡萄酒。如果少了创 造力,没有一点艺术性,当然无法生产顶尖佳酿,因为就是 少了些什么。想冒着风险酿出一瓶精彩美酒,你有时候需要 一种灵感,一次小小机运。 from the vine

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Water of Life Philippe Traber Distillerie Metté

TO MAK E O U R EAU-D E-V I E, we use either fermentation or maceration, depending on the fruit. When we have juice and sugar, we use fermentation. When we don’t have sugar, as with ginger, cinnamon, garlic, thyme, or rosemary, we use maceration. When macerating, how long you wait to distill is really important. The ratio changes depending on the sweetness of the fruit, and it’s different every year and with every fruit. With fermentation, there’s more variance, due to the sweetness of the fruit, than with maceration. But the most important element is the quality of the fruit – having regular, consistent quality. The secret to making eau-de-vie is being very rigorous about the quality of the fruit and the timing. When you decide to distill on Monday, then you must distill on Monday and not Tuesday. The fruit arrives everywhere at the same time, but it’s how you manage the time that makes the difference. I create more than ninety different eaux-de-vie. Next week, I’ll receive some cherries – we’re waiting for perfect ripeness. I can’t check all the fruit in the fields, but the guy who sends it to me knows what I want, and when the time is right, he’ll say OK, now we pick the fruit. My suppliers know exactly how tough I am and cannot risk sending bad fruit, because I can say no, that’s rubbish. I only pay after I receive the fruit. Everybody knows I’m really tough but fair. If the fruit is very good, I’ll pay a good price for it, no problem. But if the fruit isn’t good, they’ll lose me as a client. I once sent away a truck with ten or twenty tons of fruit. We age the spirits six years in stainless steel. It allows the liquid to stay transparent – we don’t want color. It needs to be clear like water, and since the tanks are not a closed vacuum, over time the alcohol will breathe and evolve.

制作白兰地 ( 生命之水 ) 时,我们会根据水果种类选择发酵 或浸渍。有果汁和糖的话,就选择发酵。如果没有糖,就加 入姜、肉桂、大蒜,或是百里香、迷迭香浸渍。浸渍过程中, 静置蒸馏的时间多长是关键所在。 成分比例随水果甜度调整,每一年、每种水果搭配的比 例都不同。因为水果甜度的​​关系,发酵比浸渍的做法多变。 不过要得到稳定一致的品质,最重要的是水果品质。 制作白兰地的秘诀在于严格把关水果品质及各步骤时间 点。如果决定星期一进行蒸馏,就必须在星期一进行,不能 延到星期二。水果送达各地的时间相同,因此时间管理就是 差别所在。 我制作超过九十种白兰地,下周我会收到一些樱桃,我 们在等待樱桃最佳的熟度。我自己没办法检查果园里所有水 果,但是送水果给我的人知道我要的品质是怎么样,时间到 的时候就会通知我说好,我们现在要采收了。 供应商知道我有多严格,不会冒险送品质差的水果给 我,因为我可以拒绝,跟他说这太烂了,而且我是货到后才 付款。大家都知道我虽然严格但也很公平,如果水果品质很 好,我绝对付合理的价钱。但是如果水果太差,我下次就不 会再跟同一家订,有一次我就拒收一卡车大概十、二十吨的 水果。 我们会把烈酒放在不锈钢容器陈化六年。不锈钢会让酒 液保持透明,我们不要别的颜色,酒的颜色必须像水一样清 澈,这个酒槽不是完全真空,因此酒精会随时间改变。

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PRESENTED BY WYNN

精致演绎尽在永利

FINE DINING THE WYNN WAY Three masters share a single approach to culinary success.

IN A LOCAL DINING SCENE that’s undergoing rapid and constant change, Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace Cotai continue to stand out. Their unconditional commitment to excellence in food and service is the decisive factor that has empowered them to assemble such an enviable collection of distinguished restaurants. The result has been a shower of Michelin stars and Forbes Five-Star ratings. Wynn’s team of internationally recognized chefs continue to dazzle diners with the kind of culinary creativity that has helped put Macau’s gastronomic achievements firmly on the world stage. The fundamentals behind Wynn’s fine-dining concept are simple and straightforward: uniquely appealing restaurant designs, the highest standards of quality for fresh seasonal products sourced from around the globe, and a forward-thinking food philosophy that unites its chefs. Although they’ve trained and worked in many different parts of the world, and despite the fact that their individual cooking styles have been shaped by a wide range of influential mentors, the approach of Wynn’s chefs displays a remarkable harmony. Three of them explain what makes it possible.

身处不断快速更迭的澳门餐饮界,永利澳门与永利皇宫路氹始终能脱颖而出。对珍馐美馔与优质服务一丝不苟的全 心投入,正是他们得以汇聚各方顶级食府的关键,更多次获得米其林星级荣耀及福布斯五星评等荣誉。永利积极招 揽享誉国际盛名的厨师,不断以推陈出新的高超厨艺为饕客提供无与伦比的飨宴,助力澳门餐饮在世界舞台持续发 光发热。 永利演绎精致餐饮的理念既简单又直接 :风格独具的餐厅设计、来自世界各地最上乘的当令新鲜食材,以及名 厨们精益求精的前卫料理哲学。 永利的厨师们个个身经百战,不仅曾旅居数国历练工作,每个人的烹饪风格亦深受不同师傅的启发,而在永利,

Snapper Usuzukuri 鲷鱼薄切刺身

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DAVID HARTUNG

他们的烹饪风格各异却又非常和谐。来听听其中三位主厨的分享。


PRESENTED BY WYNN

MIN KIM 金旻炯 EXECUTIVE CHEF OF MIZUMI, SUSHI MIZUMI AND HANAMI AT WYNN PALACE COTAI 永利皇宮路氹「泓」日本料理、 鮨泓及花悦拉面行政总厨

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Hokkaido sea urchin sushi 北海道海胆寿司

永利皇宫路氹「泓」日本料理的行政总厨金旻炯,千里迢迢移居澳门,可绝非仅为了经营 另一家典型的日式料理餐厅。他说 : 「这谁都做得到,但永利赋予『泓』的任务,是成为日 本海外最顶尖的日式料理餐厅,得知这目标后,我马上渴望成为其中的一份子。 」 永利对完美的执着与愿景引领「泓」走上了星光大道,除了获《南华早报 100 Top 「鮨泓」更于 2018 Tables 2017 – A CEO’s Dining Guide》选为澳门前二十大餐厅的殊荣外, 年获颁《福布斯旅游指南》五星评等。 不论是食材准备、菜式摆盘与顾客服务,金总厨对细节非常谨慎,严格遵循悠久的日 式传统,这正是餐厅屡获殊荣的原因。他表示 : 「我们烹调正宗日式料理,却突显了独一无 二的本地色彩。 」金总厨制作料理的方法五花八门,但使用木炭是他最喜欢的烹调手法。他 解释 : 「木炭可说是日本厨房的根本,从烤鱼到烟熏调味,都离不开它。我的厨房一定要有 炭炉。 」 而他的招牌菜单会随季节更迭而变化,充满想像力,但总能从中发现他热爱的食材。 「我喜欢新鲜时令的海鲜。每个季节都有这么多特别的食材,为什么不在它们味道口感正好 时,好好善用呢?」本季招牌菜单中的鲷鱼薄切刺身和北海道海胆寿司则正正反映了金总 厨喜用当季食材的烹饪哲学。 历经首尔、东京、悉尼的烹调旅程,此番落脚澳门对金总厨而言无疑是大开眼界。他 说: 「我很快了解到『国际级』的意义,标准高得不得了,而永利已站在澳门的巅峰,我必 须让我们维持巅峰状态,我享受追求卓越、登峰造极的状态。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

MIN KIM, Executive Chef of Mizumi, Sushi Mizumi and Hanami at Wynn Palace Cotai, didn’t relocate all the way to Macau just to open another typical Japanese restaurant. “Anyone can do that,” he says. “Wynn’s goal for Mizumi was to offer the best Japanese restaurant outside of Japan, and I knew immediately that I wanted to be part of it.” This shared vision for perfection is what has put Mizumi on its star-studded trajectory: it was among the Top 20 restaurants in Macau in SCMP ’s 100 Top Tables 2017 – A CEO ’s Dining Guide, and Sushi Mizumi was awarded a Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star rating in 2018. Behind the accolades is Chef Min’s meticulous attention to detail in every aspect of preparation, presentation, and service, all strictly in keeping with long-standing Japanese traditions. “We cook authentic Japanese food,” he explains, “but with a unique local twist.” While he uses many different cooking techniques, working with charcoal is his favorite. “It’s a fundamental part of a Japanese kitchen,” he says. “From searing fish to flavoring with smoke, it’s such a versatile cooking technique, one that I couldn’t imagine running my kitchen without.” Chef Min’s signature dishes may change with the seasons, but they always include an imaginative incarnation of his signature ingredients. “I love fresh, seasonal seafood,” he says. “I don’t see the point in using products that are not in season – there are so many wonderful things to work with when they’re at their peak of flavor.” These include such seasonal guest favorites as the thinly sliced Snapper Usuzukuri and the delicate Hokkaido sea urchin sushi. After Seoul, Tokyo, and Sydney, continuing his culinary journey in Macau has been an eye-opener for Chef Min. “I quickly learned what ‘international level’ means,” he says. “The standards are extremely high, and Wynn has reached the pinnacle in Macau. I have to make sure we stay on top, and striving for excellence is what I enjoy most.”


PRESENTED BY WYNN

LIU GUO ZHU 刘国柱 EXECUTIVE CHEF OF ALL CHINESE CULINARY OPERATIONS AT WYNN MACAU

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

永利澳门中菜部行政总厨

IN A CAREER OF FIVE DECADES, Master Liu Guo Zhu, Executive Chef of All Chinese Culinary Operations at Wynn Macau, has mentored hundreds of young chefs, teaching them timehonored Chinese recipes from three culinary traditions: Tan, Lu, and Sichuan. At Wynn Macau’s award-winning restaurant Golden Flower, Master Liu and his apprentices – each one of them a highly accomplished chef – specialize in bringing the aristocratic delights of Tan cuisine to local gourmands. Tan combines southern and northern influences in a haute-cuisine style of Chinese cooking that was once solely reserved for official state banquets. “Passing on our knowledge is important,” says Liu, “and I feel a great sense of responsibility in carrying on this legacy.” Liu, who began his apprenticeship at just seventeen years of age at the Beijing Hotel, has prepared cuisine for countless VIPs and world dignitaries, including former Chinese leader Deng Xiaoping, Queen Elizabeth, and former U.S. Secretary of State Henry Kissinger. Before any dish takes its place on the menu at Golden Flower, it has been subjected to dozens of trials and tests to ensure perfection every time. “Consistency is key,” says Master Liu, “whether it’s the portion size or the seasoning or the temperature. We have very precise procedures in place to make sure that standards remain constant, no matter if I’m here or not.” Liu considers his Tan cuisine dishes his signatures, and he believes the soul of Tan lives in its soups. Aged hen, aged duck, pork bones, conpoy, and Jinhua ham simmer for eight hours to make his fresh clam and jasmine in chicken soup. The savory clear broth is poured over sea clams and jasmine flowers, producing an aromatic bowl with deeply complex flavors. The chef’s dedication has certainly paid off. Golden Flower has been awarded two Michelin stars every year since 2013, and it has received a Forbes Travel Guide Five-Star rating every year since 2014. “Wynn provides a good platform for chefs,” says Liu. “That they have such high expectations is truly motivating. It’s a place where chefs can realize their ultimate potential.”

Fresh clam and jasmine in chicken soup 茉莉海蚌清鸡汤

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刘国柱大师担任永利澳门中菜部行政总 厨。他纵横餐饮界五十载,指导过数百 位年轻有为的厨师,传授历久弥新的三 大传统中华菜式 :谭家菜、鲁菜和四川 菜。 在永利澳门获奖无数的「京花轩」 , 刘大师带领门下数位身手不凡的刘家班 徒弟,致力为本地饕客演绎深受上流社 会好评的谭家菜。谭家菜兼采南北方菜 系之精髓,曾是官府贵胄设宴款待宾客 的高级私房料理。刘大师表示 : 「知识 传承很重要,我觉得自己在这方面责无 旁贷。 」 刘大师十七岁时便在北京饭店担任 学徒,品尝过他的料理的贵宾与各国显 要不计其数,包括前中国领导人邓小平、 英国伊丽莎白女皇、前美国国务卿基辛 格。 「京花轩」将任何一道料理纳入菜 单前,一定会经过数十次尝试,以确保 成品尽善尽美。刘大师说 : 「不论是菜 的份量、调味或温度,保证水准是关键。 我们有精确的流程维持一定的品质标 准,我在或不在厨房里都一样。 」 刘大师认为谭家菜是他的代表,而 汤 则 是 谭 家 菜 的 灵 魂 所 在。 「京花轩」 其中一道招牌菜茉莉海蚌清鸡汤使用了 老母鸡、老鸭、猪骨、干贝和金华火腿, 熬煮八小时,享用时把清汤倒进装有海 蚌和茉莉花的碗中,香气馥郁。 刘 大 师 的 全 心 投 入 终 有 回 报。 从

2013 年开始,「京花轩」每年囊括两颗 米其林星星,而且从 2014 年至今,年 年获《福布斯旅游指南》五星评等,从 未失手。刘大师说 : 「永利澳门为厨师 提供了绝佳平台,对我们的高期望无疑 是激励我们前进的动力。在这里,厨师

Stewed fish maw with crab claw in supreme chicken broth 蟹肉黄烧鱼肚

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

可以一展所长,发挥最大潜能。 」


NORIHISA MAEDA 前田典久 JAPANESE CHEF DE CUISINE OF MIZUMI AT WYNN MACAU 永利澳门「泓」日本料理高级主厨


PRESENTED BY WYNN

NORIHISA MAEDA, Japanese Chef de Cuisine at Mizumi Wynn Macau, was sixteen years old when the Japanese TV series Iron Chef inspired him to venture into the culinary world. “I decided that’s what I was going to do,” he says, “because being a chef looked so fun and cool.” The lessons he learned early on in his career have stayed with him. “My master chef taught me the basics of Japanese cooking, the right attitude, and respect for the ingredients,” he says. “It’s thirty-two years later, and I’ve never forgotten his wisdom.” Maeda’s instilled values have helped him propel Mizumi to global acclaim. Both 2017 and 2018 were stellar for the Mizumi team, with the restaurant receiving two Michelin stars each year as well as Forbes Travel Guide’s Five-Star rating. “It’s not just about reaching a standard,” he says. “You also have to maintain peak consistency so that guests leave with a memorable dining experience every time.” Master Sushi Chef Hideki Fujikawa does his part to foster the precision teamwork that has brought stardom to Mizumi. “For me, it’s more than about making excellent sushi,” he says. “It’s learning to always make your guests your top priority.” His attention extends to every detail. While fish is usually cut into one thick piece for sushi, Fujikawa slices his toro into thin shavings for his signature fatty tuna sushi. Four to six slices are carefully layered before placing them on the rice. “My sushi rice is very tender,” he explains, “and when it’s paired with this paper-thin tuna, it literally melts in your mouth.” With a number of master chefs working under one roof, Maeda must ensure that perspectives align. “My cooking watchword is always to challenge myself toward flawless execution,” he says. “Working with Wynn and the team at Mizumi makes that possible. Our aim is to anticipate the desires of our guests and go far beyond their expectations.”

Fatty tuna (toro) sushi 金枪鱼腩寿司

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永利澳门「泓」日本料理高级主厨前田典久,在 十六岁时受到日本电视节目《料理铁人》的启发, 决心踏入餐饮界。他表示 : 「我决定当厨师,看起 来既有趣又帅。 」 前田典久一直将早年习艺所学铭记于心 : 「我 的师傅教导我日式料理的基础技艺、正确的态度 以及对食材的尊重,三十二年来我从没忘记他的 教诲。 」 心中根深蒂固的价值观成了前田典久将「泓」 「泓」 带 上 国 际 舞 台 的 推 手。 2017 和 2018 年, 的团队大放异彩,分别荣获两颗米其林星星与《福 布斯旅游指南》五星评等。前田典久说 : 「不只要 达到标准,还要保持巅峰状态,因为我们要确保 客人每次来用餐都有难忘的体验。 」 促进团队合作的资深寿司主厨藤川英树是另 一位为「泓」日本料理摘星的幕后功臣。他说 : 「我在乎的是如何做出美味的寿司,顾客至上。 」 他的细致体现在每个细节上。例如寿司通常会配 上一片厚厚的刺身,但藤川英树却把金枪鱼腩精 心切成薄片,将四至六片层层叠起之后,再放在 寿司饭上。他介绍说 : 「我准备的寿司饭口感软 糯,配搭金枪鱼腩薄片,让整件寿司在你的口中 融化。 」 与数位厨艺精湛的大将共事,前田典久得确 保团队目标一致。他说 : 「烹调时,我的口号永远 都是挑战自我,至臻完美。与永利合作,和『泓』 日本料理的团队共事,让我能将口号化为现实。 」 我们的目标是实现顾客的愿望,超越顾客的预期。


DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Japanese Yaeyama A5 wagyu beef teppanyaki 日本八重山 A5 和牛铁板烧

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葡式复兴

revival at rocks Martinho Moniz breathes new life into Vic’s Restaurante.

Special grilled codfish 特色烧马介休

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PRESENTED BY FISHERMAN’S WHARF

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Executive Chef Martinho Moniz

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DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY FISHERMAN’S WHARF

Vic’s Restaurante has been boldly reinventing itself over the past eighteen months. The man behind the revolution is Executive Chef Martinho Moniz, who couldn’t be prouder of the achievement. “This Portuguese restaurant is different from all others in Macau,” he says. “We may not be the most famous, but we’re definitely the most genuine.” Vic’s is on the ground floor of the elegantly whitewashed Rocks Hotel, which juts into the harbor at the far end of Macau Fisherman’s Wharf in stubborn defiance of the towering neighboring casinos that dwarf the venerable colonial-style establishment. The restaurant sprawls spaciously out onto a sun-drenched terrace and manicured lawn, and with natural light pouring in from both sides, the serene interior is open and airy. Traditional blue and white azulejo tiles decorate the walls, and the ornate scrollwork of wrought-iron chandeliers adds warm, classic charm. Indeed, Vic’s new look and menu pay homage to Martinho’s Iberian roots and to the authentic family-style Portuguese cuisine he was brought up on. “I come from a very traditional family, from a small village in northern Portugal,” he says. “I grew up on a farm and learned from an early age how important it is to understand where everything comes from. The meat, the fruits, the vegetables – I know how they grow, where they grow, when they grow – all my knowledge of cuisine is rooted in this.” Inspired by his mother’s passion for cooking, Martinho left for culinary school and then set out to hone his craft by working with more experienced chefs. “Usually, everyone wants to go straight to the big names to learn from them,” he says. “I went for the small restaurants, the typical, traditional Portuguese restaurants, and built up a really strong background in their cuisine.” After spending ten years perfecting the classic side, Martinho headed to Lisbon to broaden his repertoire. “When I arrived, nobody knew me, but it wasn’t long before I was sous chef in a well-known restaurant. Why? Because I’d spent time getting the background.” After opening Hong Kong’s first authentic Portuguese restaurant, Martinho spent three years heading up a Michelin-starred restaurant in Macau. Then he decided to take on the challenge at Vic’s. “I really believed in this project from the start,” he says. “There was no real identity to the restaurant – a bit French, a bit Italian, a bit Spanish, a bit Portuguese. It was crying out for change, and that’s what we’ve brought.” The first thing Martinho tackled was a complete transformation of the menu: “Forget French, forget Italian, forget Spanish. I’m Portuguese and I want to show Macau what true Portuguese cuisine really is. We work with traditional products and we work from traditional recipes. And we don’t just have a chef, we have a cook – I am the cook. Every day, people can see me here at work, tasting

「怡景餐厅」历经 18 个月翻修后, 焕然一新。 行 政 总 厨 Martinho Moniz 正 是 这「 变 身 」 计划的幕后功臣,他对此自豪不已 : 「走遍 澳门,绝对找不到和我们一样的葡式餐厅。 我们可能不是最有名气的,但保证原汁原 味无人可及。 」 餐厅所在的澳门莱斯酒店外墙全以白 色粉刷,充满殖民历史风格。Martinho 此番 大动作将酒店一楼往外延伸,深入澳门渔人 码头远端的码头区,与一旁高楼分庭抗礼。 宽敞的餐厅连接沐浴在阳光下的户外露台及 经精心修整的大草坪,营造出开阔的视觉效 果。宁静的餐厅内部伴着两侧透进的自然光 线,带着开放通风的空间。蓝白相间的经典

“I’m Portuguese and I want to show Macau what true Portuguese cuisine really is. And we don’t just have a chef, we have a cook – I am the cook.”

花砖墙搭配涡旋装饰风格的炼铁吊灯,增添 些温暖、复古的迷人魅力。 餐 厅 的 全 新 风 貌 及 菜 单 均 葡 味 十 足, 向总厨家乡的伊比利半岛文化及他从小 耳 濡 目 染 的 正 宗 家 庭 式 葡 萄 牙 美 食 致 敬。 「我来自一个非常传统的家 Martinho 表示 : 庭,生活在葡萄牙北部的一个小村镇。我在 农场长大,从小就学习食物从何而来的重要 性。我对各式肉类、水果及蔬菜的栽种方式、 生长地方及时节全都了若指掌。这是我所有 料理知识的根源。 」

Martinho 的母亲热爱做菜,他因此选 择烹饪学校就读,并设定目标,要跟着经验 丰富的厨师学艺,磨练料理的功夫。他分享 当时的心路历程 : 「一般人会想一开始就找 知名大厨当学徒,但我选择小餐厅,那种最 传统、典型的葡式餐厅作为起步,累积出扎 from the vine

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「我来自葡萄牙,想将最道地的葡萄牙菜引进澳门。餐厅 里的行政总厨就是厨房里的厨子,而我就是厨子本人。」

实的葡菜基本工。 」花了 10 年钻研经典菜式 后,他想着增加自己的拿手菜,来到了里斯本。 他回忆 : 「初来时没人认识我,但没多久就当 上了当地知名餐厅的副厨。怎么办到的?因 为葡菜的基础我早已掌握得宜、运用自如了。 」 后来,Martinho 移师香港,并在这开设 首家正宗葡式餐厅,接着转赴澳门并在一间 著名米其林星级餐厅的厨房坐镇了三年,之后 他决定接下整顿「怡景餐厅」的挑战。他说明: 「我从一开始就非常认同此计划。以前餐厅没 有自己的风格,有点像法式、意式、西班牙 和葡萄牙风的混和体。餐厅需要改变,这也 正是我们来此的原因。 」 他从菜单着手,带来 180 度大转变,他 强调 : 「把法式、意式或西班牙风都抛一旁, 我来自葡萄牙,想将最道地的葡萄牙菜引进 澳门。我们引用传统产品,重现传统菜单。 餐厅里的行政总厨就是厨房里的厨子,而我 就是厨子本人。每天大家都看到我进厨房工​​ 作,每道菜都要等我试过味后才能给客人享 用。我不会为了迎合别人口味改变我的菜式, 这里的就是原汁原味的葡式料理。这里的风 Octopus salad with chickpeas and red wine vinaigrette 八爪鱼沙律配红酒醋

格别具一格,也正是我们餐厅的特别之处。 」 半开放式厨房内,只见总厨 Martinho 和 团队正使出浑身解数,精雕细琢每个摆盘细 节。他说 : 「我喜欢做自己爱吃的东西,也想 让客人品尝其他地方吃不到的美味菜式。我 个人偏爱经典葡菜,其中很多经典的味道或

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mother and grandmother used to do on the family farm. “The French have foie gras, we have bacalhau. It’s a signature dish not only of Vic’s, but of Portugal, and we have one of very best versions in Macau.” The allure of the new Vic’s is more than just good food. “It’s a place where family and friends gather,” says Martinho. “I get to know the guests and they get to know me. I know what they like and can recommend things that aren’t necessarily on the menu. Vic’s is really like a traditional Portuguese home, ready to receive friends. “I’m constantly inspired to keep creating, to keep evolving and to give people a unique experience. The pleasure of seeing them happy makes me happy, and if they come back again, they’re no longer customers, they’re friends.”

历史悠久的烹调技巧,年轻一代甚至见所未 见、闻所未闻。 」餐厅多道招牌菜,如安康鱼 及龙虾炖煮海鲜锅、传统葡式乳猪及马介休 都是此风格的代表,其中制成马介休的鳕鱼 更是遵循母亲及祖母以往在田边制作的古法, 在太阳下慢慢曝晒变干。Martinho 自豪说道: 「法国人有鹅肝,我们有马介休,不止在我们 餐厅,它在葡萄牙也是家喻户晓的知名菜式, 『怡景』的出品更是在澳门数一数二的。 」 全新「怡景餐厅」不仅高水准的餐点诱 人,总厨强调 : 「这里还是个适合家人及朋友 欢聚的地方,我和客人有机会相互认识,知 道他们喜欢什么,便能推荐一些菜单上不一 定有的私房菜式。餐厅就像传统葡萄牙人家 庭一样,随时准备好接待上门的亲朋好友。 」 「我时常创作新菜式、与时俱进,希望带 给客人独一无二的体验。看到他们快乐,也 让我开心起来。下次他们再来就不只是客人, 而是以好朋友的身分回来『怡景』了。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

every dish before it goes out. I don’t adapt my dishes to suit others’ palates – it’s authentic Portuguese food. We’re one of a kind, and that’s what makes this place special.” In the semi- open kitchen, Chef Martinho and his team put their skills on display. “Basically I like to work with what I like to eat,” he says, “and I try to offer what people can’t find somewhere else that I think they’ll enjoy. I like to stay true to the old style of Portuguese cuisine, the old flavors and cooking techniques that some in the younger generation don’t really know.” The best examples of this approach are such trademark specialties as monkfish and lobster cataplana, traditional suckling pig, and jumbo bacalhau, which Martinho first dries slowly in the sunshine, just as his


Monkfish rice and lobster 安康鱼饭配龙虾


大厨匠心 美味起源

it starts with steak The Kitchen, Grand Lisboa Hotel’s renowned modern steakhouse, shows off its Michelinstar style.

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Executive Chef Andy Lam

Grilled Tomahawk Steak 炙烤战斧牛排

Emblematic of the exceptional level of The Kitchen’s cuisine, the premium wagyu-grade Tomahawk steak weighs in at an average of 1,070 grams. Upon order, the cut gets a light seasoning of sea salt, white pepper, and olive oil before being grilled in one of the gas-fire ovens. For Lam, every second counts and temperature is key. Relatively low-level heat is used to grill the meat, ensuring a perfectly charred exterior and a juicy, melting middle. 吨 位 惊 人 的 和 牛 等 级 战 斧 牛 扒, 平 均 重 量 达

1,070 公克,是「大厨」一流美食的代表。接单 后,牛扒以海盐、白胡椒及橄榄油简单调味后 移至店内其中一台瓦斯烤炉准备料理。对于林 总厨来说,炙烤过程每一秒都不容轻忽,温度 是美味与否的重点所在 :以相对较低的温度炙 烤牛肉,让外表焦熟同时,内部仍保有丰厚肉 汁及入口即化的口感。

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PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

Signature Semi-Buffet Salad Bar 经典半自助沙律吧

The Kitchen’s lavish Signature Semi-Buffet Salad Bar goes far beyond the freshness of leafy greens. Artfully curated, it presents a harmonious and always exciting selection, including luscious fresh fruits, premium charcuterie, and imported cheeses, as well as tangy seafood amuse-bouches. Salads here are taken very seriously, with more than twenty varieties of dressings and toppings. “We change the selection from day to day,” says Lam, “because we want our guests to discover something new every time.” 「大厨」的经典半自助沙律吧除了鲜绿蔬菜, 还有各式美味供客人品尝。甜美多汁的新鲜 水果、顶级熟食冷肉、各式进口奶酪以及味 道扑鼻的开胃海鲜小点精心排列,令人不知 从哪里开始。沙律是这里的重头戏,因此备 有 20 多种酱料及配料,足见餐厅的用心。主 厨自豪地表示 : 「沙律吧每天都供应不同的食 材。我们希望客人每次来都有新东西可以探 索一番。 」

SLEEK, CONTEMPORARY, AND ELEGANT, The Kitchen’s understated interiors immediately convey the kind of sophisticated attention to detail that have won the restaurant a Michelin star for five consecutive years. Windows give out on spectacular views of Macau, and, in a subtle touch, hundreds of burnished gold bars suspended from the ceiling criss-cross to spell out the restaurant’s initials. Ovens flare in the dramatic show kitchen, and a gleaming glass case near the entrance flaunts the day’s selection of the finest premium cuts available. This last feature speaks directly to the principal factor behind The Kitchen’s glowing reputation: the wholehearted belief on the part of Andy Lam, its very talented executive chef, in the power of superlative products and flawless execution. In an age when many chefs are busy

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澳门新葡京酒店的牛扒餐馆「大厨」 ,集时髦、现 代和优雅于一身,餐厅低调雅致的装潢处处彰显 对细节的用心,也正是此精神让其连续五年获得 米其林星级认证。从餐厅内向窗外望去可一览澳 门美景,往上则可见天花板数百枝金色长棒彼此 交错,排列出餐厅名字字首,极具巧思。开放式 厨房内烤炉火光正盛,娱乐性十足,餐厅入口闪 闪发光的玻璃柜中则展示当日能享用的各式最顶 级牛肉部位,叫人不禁驻足。 上述最后一项特色直指「大厨」得以享有盛 名的关键所在 :将品质一流的肉品交由行政总厨 林国新主理,对他的执行力给予绝对信任。林总


DAVID HARTUNG (1+PREVIOUS PAGE)

chasing the next culinary fad, Lam holds an unshakable commitment to the highest-caliber ingredients and unvarying standards of preparation and presentation. “I personally travel from Macau to Hong Kong frequently to handpick our steaks,” he says. “It’s the only way I can ensure the consistency of the quality we’re serving.” The same level of care can be found in every aspect of the restaurant, such things as homemade bread freshly baked for each table, live tanks with fresh-from-the-sea lobsters that diners personally select, an authentic sushi bar offering world-class sashimi, and an expertly chosen wine collection of more than sixteen thousand eight hundred labels. Lam’s decades of experience have taught him the paramount principle that any fine dish is only as good as its starting elements.

厨坚持使用顶级的食材,备料烹调及最终摆盘都 要达到最高标准。他表示 : 「我经常从澳门到香港 亲自挑选牛肉,唯有如此才能让我们端出去的每 一盘牛扒都具品质保证。 」 这种无微不至的态度也体现在餐厅的各方各 面,比如每桌客人的面包均为新鲜烘焙的自家出 品,餐厅鱼缸的海里现捞龙虾由客人选定后立即 料理,以及原汁原味的寿司吧则提供世界级水准 的生鱼片。餐厅的专家严选酒藏甚丰,供应超过 一万六千八百多款顶级佳酿。回顾几十年的厨师生 涯,林总厨学到最宝贵的一课便是,新鲜食材才是 烹调出美味料理的关键。

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DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA HOTEL

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Supreme Crabmeat with Avocado and Japanese Tomato 鲜蟹肉配牛油果沙律及日本番茄

The Kitchen may bill itself as a steakhouse, but this artful starter proves there’s far more to it than that. True to the restaurant’s ethos, Lam lets the ingredients’ inherent flavors shine. The result is a dance of balanced summer tastes: the umami of fresh crabmeat, the sweetness of Japanese tomato and apple spheres, the creaminess of finely sliced avocado, the crispness of frisée. Served with almost no dressing at all, it is deceivingly simple and simply unforgettable. 「大厨」虽以扒房自居,但这道艺 术品一般的前菜让人看到其无限的 可能性。这道菜忠于餐厅的烹饪哲 学,旨在让食材原有的味道发光发 亮,成品犹如一支夏日梦舞,各式 美味均衡,拿捏的恰到好处 :蟹肉 的鲜、日本番茄及球状苹果的甜、 牛油果切片的绵密及菊苣的爽脆完 美交融。这道前菜几乎不淋任何酱 汁,令人难以置信的简单,却也最 令人难忘。

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荔枝鸡肉丸子配蜂蜜梅酒汁

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DAVID HARTUNG

Lychee chicken meatballs with “MeiJiu”


PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

仲夏灵感

summer’s inspirations The sunniest flavors of the season shine at Vida Rica.

夏日炎炎,是大量新鲜蔬果作为当季菜单 明星的好时节,让手法灵活的大厨们一展 身手。当天气变热,客人自然而然偏好口 味清新的餐点,希望每一口都能尝到时令 蔬果最当季的滋味。 澳门文华东方酒店助理行政总厨丘云

WITH THE WARMTH OF SUMMER MONTHS comes a bounty of fresh fruits and vegetables just waiting to star on the seasonal menus of creative chefs. And when temperatures climb, dining naturally leans toward bright, refreshing meals full of the flavor of growing things at their peak. Making the most of the profusion of produce and vibrant summertime flavors, Ethan Hiew, Executive Sous Chef at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, has let the season have its radiant way with his menu. He has created an intriguing selection of new dishes that reflect his personal style of Southeast Asian cuisine with a distinctly modern slant. Set to launch as Chef’s Recommendations at Vida Rica in August, the new lineup of specialties is inspired by his many years working in Asia as well as by his love of in-season produce, vegetables in particular. “I think summer is just synonymous with certain veggies,” he says. “And eating healthier, more plantfocused meals is what so many people today are looking for.” Since joining Mandarin Oriental, Macau, in May 2017, Chef

康懂得善用夏季琳琅满目的农产品,设计 风味鲜明的当季菜单,其一系列饶富趣味 的新菜式,以带有现代感的东南亚菜肴为 主,充分展现总厨的个人风格。 今年八月「御苑」将推出「总厨推荐」 菜式。这些特色佳肴的灵感来自于丘总厨 在亚洲工作多年的经验,以及对当季食材 的喜爱,其中蔬菜更是重中之重。他表示: 「对我来说,夏天意味着某些蔬菜将要上 市,而且现今有许多人追求以蔬果为主的 健康饮食。 」 丘总厨在 2017 年五月加入澳门文华 东方的团队,随后凭借自身的天分和热情, 为「御苑」和大堂酒廊带来充满新意的经 典菜式。生于马来西亚,丘总厨从烹饪学 校毕业后,便踏上厨师之路,最早在中国 餐馆工作,后来进入高级饭店厨房任职, 也在新加坡工作多年。 当提及曾经共事的厨师,丘总厨透露 from the vine

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Double-boiled coconut soup with fish maw, maitake mushroom and snow lotus seed 舞茸菌椰皇炖鸡汤配花胶及雪莲子


DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Hiew has brought his talent and enthusiasm for classic yet innovative cuisine to the kitchens of both Vida Rica and The Lobby Lounge. Born in Malaysia, he is now a citizen of Singapore, having worked there for many years. Chef Hiew embarked on his cooking journey after graduating from culinary school by starting out with a job in a Chinese restaurant and then moving into top hotel kitchens. Chef Hiew considers two of the chefs he’s worked with as mentors who have guided him on his culinary path. At Mandarin Oriental, Kuala Lumpur, celebrity chef Jereme Leung, renowned for his breakthrough Cantonese cuisine, taught Hiew the importance of good people skills in managing a kitchen. “He was young and very tech savvy, too,” he says. “He showed me how to use technology to help in the kitchen.” At Four Seasons in Singapore, Chef Albert Tse taught him about effective presentation. “Traditional Chinese plating is family style, casual, and, frankly, kind of messy,” he says. “Albert taught me how to plate Asian dishes in a more refined, Western style.” A perfect example of a dish displaying Chef Tse’s influence is Hiew’s imaginative lychee chicken meatballs with “MeiJiu”. It delivers the traditional Asian sweet-and-sour taste, but its presentation is decidedly contemporary. To complement the lychee’s mild sweetness, the chef reduces Japanese plum wine to create an almost syrupy glaze. The meatballs are delicately deep-fried before being gently tossed in the sauce. Chef Hiew’s savory fried rice with five grain is served with bamboo pith, corn, kailan, and edamame beans and is topped with golden chicken broth. His unique double-boiled coconut soup features mushrooms and snow lotus seeds steamed with the soup base inside the coconut shell to deeply infuse the dish with fresh coconut taste. “Our new offerings,” says Chef Hiew, “are just right for diners who are craving something on the lighter side, and there’s no better time than summer to experience these revitalizing, zesty flavors.”

Executive Sous Chef Ethan Hiew

有两位可说是他的导师,也是他厨艺之路的指路人。其中一位是任职于吉隆坡文 华东方酒店的知名大厨梁子庚,他独具一格的粤菜驰名海内外,更指导丘总厨提 升人际技巧的重要性以及管理厨房的技巧。丘总厨说 : 「他很懂得善用科技,教导 我如何运用科技提升厨房的工作效率。 」另一位导师则是新加坡的四季酒店主厨谢 伟城,他传授丘总厨的摆盘技巧,丘总厨说 : 「传统中国菜的摆盘偏于家常随意, 坦白说有些杂乱。他教我用更精致的西方风格呈现亚洲菜肴。 」 以丘总厨的创意料理荔枝鸡肉丸子配蜂蜜梅酒汁为例,菜式摆盘深受谢伟 城影响。这道菜带有传统亚洲菜的酸甜口味,而呈现方式极具当代风格。为了 突显荔枝的清甜,丘总厨把日本梅酒加热淆煮至变得浓稠,闪着糖浆般的光泽。 鸡肉丸子以油炸却不腻,再轻蘸酱汁,轻薄酥脆。 滋味独特的五谷杂粮炒饭是丘总厨以时蔬设计的一道特色菜,以五谷米搭 配竹笙、玉米、芥兰、日本毛豆,再淋上熬成金黄色泽的鸡汤。总厨另一道得意 之作是椰皇炖鸡汤,以隔水蒸煮而成,将香菇、雪莲子置入椰壳中,和汤底一起 蒸炖,使这碗汤拥有浓郁的椰子香气。 丘总厨说道 : 「我们的全新菜式最适合口味清淡的饕客,而品尝这些滋味美 妙、提振元气的料理,夏天正是最佳时机。 」 from the vine

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

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PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

奢华极简风

sumptuously simple At ÉPURE, the timeless flavors of France are presented with creative modern clarity by a culinary master.

Nicolas Boutin

Sisteron lamb rack & neck with eggplant and bell pepper 锡斯特龙羊架、羊颈肉配茄子蓉及甜椒

“IT’S COMPLICATED to do simple,” says Nicolas Boutin, executive chef of Michelinstarred ÉPURE. The elegant directness of his fine-dining approach, paired with the tranquility of an interior influenced by French royal heritage and an atmosphere of relaxed conviviality, has won the

「 简 单 其 实 很 复 杂。 」米其林星级餐厅 「ÉPURE」 行 政 总 厨 Nicolas Boutin 如 是 说。他的烹调手法高雅直率,搭配餐厅以 法國皇宮及自然为题的装潢,静谧而写意, 营造出轻松愉悦的氛围。在老饕行家们的 眼中,九龙区最纯正的当代法式料理,非 「ÉPURE」莫属。 from the vine

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PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

海鲜酥皮盒

A notable example is an ÉPURE signature, Boutin’s updated variation on the traditional vol-au-vent. Flaky, buttery cases of delicate handmade puff pastry are filled with a seasonal sauce that highlights fresh langoustine and offers a hint of licorice and the crunch of samphire. Another case in point is ÉPURE’s mushroom soup, a favorite on the menu since the day the restaurant opened. Far from typical, it contains just three ingredients: concentrated extract of white button mushrooms, fresh cream, and a touch of salt. “It takes many kilos of mushrooms to make just a small quantity of this soup,” says Boutin, who complements the dish with fluffy baby-spinach gnocchi for textural contrast. Every item on ÉPURE’s seasonal menu begins its creative evolution with a single primary component. “I start,” says Boutin, “by learning all I can about the ingredient and then sourcing only the very best quality from the very best supplier, which inevitably makes a big difference in the final result. Suppliers and producers are very important to me, and I prefer to work directly with specialists who deal in each particular ingredient. I always use the finest I can find.” Each dish builds element by element. “I keep asking myself what I should do with the main ingredient so that it will perfectly fit into the compositional harmony of our seasonal contemporary French menus.” Seasonality, of course, is one of Boutin’s prime creative motivators. He is currently showcasing heirloom pineapple tomato, sourced at-peak directly from Provence. A luscious, ripe tomato “steak” is served with pickled spring onion, black olives, tomato confit sorbet, and micro herbs. Also in season is rack and neck of milk-fed Sisteron lamb, which Boutin prefers to sous-vide before glazing with a reduced jus and then roasting for a short time. It pairs beautifully with burnt eggplant mousseline and roasted bell pepper marinated in sherry vinegar. Boutin enjoys interacting with diners and seeking their feedback about ÉPURE’s offerings. “This is so important to me as a chef,” he says. “I’m interested in knowing not just whether they liked it, but why they liked it. I’m proud of what our team is doing now, and I’m passionate about my craft and about pleasing our guests. I want ÉPURE to always be a contemporary French dining experience that is unforgettable.”

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Vol-au-vent

restaurant a reputation among the discerning as the purest expression of contemporary French cuisine in Kowloon. Boutin’s impressive background includes experience at some of France’s most renowned multiple-Michelin-star restaurants. A deep understanding of the classic essentials of French cooking, developed over a career spent traveling and working around the world, has combined with his inherent sense of adventure to inspire a cuisine that fulfills Boutin’s leading-edge philosophy. “I always take a slightly outsidethe-box approach,” he says, “and so I created ÉPURE, where less is more, where simplicity and purity are the driving forces behind the contemporary French food we serve.” According to the chef, his practice of taking a few pristine ingredients and producing a sophisticated dish with definition and balance is not as easy as it may seem. “Although my creations appear simple on the plate,” says Boutin, “quite a lot goes into each of them.” The straightforwardness of his method allows for no culinary diversions to hide behind and demands technical mastery and flawless execution every time.


Heirloom pineapple tomato with black olive and spring onion 复古番茄配黑橄榄及嫩洋葱

「需要数公斤的蘑菇才能 巴。 Nicolas 说 : 熬制出极少量的汤。 」他再加入松软的菠菜 马铃薯面团,画龙点睛地制造出对比口感。 「 ÉPURE 」当季菜单上,每一道菜式的 「一 创 意 都 始 于 单 一 主 食 材。 Nicolas 说 : 开 始 我 会 先 学 习 有 关 这 个 食 材 的 一 切, 然 后严选能提供最高品质食材的最佳供应商, White button mushroom soup with baby spinach gnocchi 白蘑菇汤

Nicolas 本身来头不小。他曾在多家法国享誉盛名的米

最后成品当然不同凡响。我认为供应商和生产商都非常重

其林星级餐厅学艺,周游列国累积烹饪经验,对法式烹调的

要,我也偏好直接与每种食材的专家合作,永远只用最优

经典精髓有着深刻的了解,加上与生俱来的冒险精神,这些

质的。 」

「我总是不按常理出 成就了 Nicolas 思想前卫的佳肴。他说 :

他的每道料理都从一项项元素堆叠起来。他认为 : 「我

。在这里,简就是精,简约与纯 牌,所以我创办了『ÉPURE』

会一直问自己要如何烹调主要食材,才能让它完美和谐地融

净是我们烹制当代法国菜的原动力。 」

入我们当季的时尚法式菜单组合里。 」

他表示,烹调时,他运用优质原始食材,创作鲜明、平

时令性无疑是激发 Nicolas 创意的主要来源之一。目前

「虽 衡的复杂料理,做法看似简单,其实不然。Nicolas 说明 :

他隆重呈献的复古菠萝番茄,以来自普罗旺斯、正值盛产的

然我的创作摆盘后看似简约,但每一道都很费心。 」也正因他

菠萝番茄为主,如「牛排」般香甜多汁的成熟番茄,配上腌

的手法直截了当,准备工夫更不能有一丝偏差,需要精准的

洋葱、黑橄榄、番茄油封雪酪、香草苗。当季食材还包括锡

技艺,才能让每道料理都完美无瑕。 最值得称道的例子是「ÉPURE」的招牌菜 – 经 Nicolas 改 良的传统奶油酥皮盒 :层次分明、奶油香浓郁的精致手工酥 皮,选用时令酱料为馅,充分突显了海螯虾的鲜甜,还带出 一点儿甘草味与海蓬子的爽口清脆。 另外值得一提的还有「 ÉPURE 」的蘑菇汤,自餐厅开 业以来就是菜单上的人气料理。有别于一般蘑菇汤,里头 只用了三种食材 :白蘑菇浓缩萃取、新鲜奶油和一点点盐

斯特龙奶饲羊架与羊颈肉。Nicolas 通常会先真空低温烹调, 再用浓缩肉汁上色,然后烘烤一小段时间,与茄子蓉、雪莉 醋腌渍烤甜椒可谓天衣无缝的搭配。

Nicolas 喜欢与宾客互动,了解他们对「ÉPURE」菜式的 看法。他表示 : 「宾客的意见对我很重要,我不只想知道他 们喜不喜欢,而是为何喜欢。我以我的团队和料理为荣。我 不只热爱精进厨艺,也在乎能否让宾客吃得开心。我希望 」 『ÉPURE』的当代法国菜永远都带给人难以忘怀的体验。 from the vine

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Turbot with half-salted butter, baby beetroots, truffle condiment (Alain Ducasse at Morpheus) 半盐牛油多宝鱼、迷你甜菜根、 松露酱(杜卡斯餐厅)

旷世巨作

matching morpheus

  A world-famous chef’s newest venue lives up to Macau’s most spectacular resort.


TASTING NEWS

PIERRE MONETTA (2)

Alain Ducasse

尽管许多餐厅外表看来都很赏心悦目,但如摩珀斯酒 While many restaurants may be feasts for the eyes, few, if any, can equal the effect 店的「杜卡斯餐厅」一样,令人一走进去就觉得叹为 of walking into Alain Ducasse at Morpheus. The legendary French chef, with nineteen 观止的,其实不多。就连现时拥有十九颗米其林星星 Michelin stars to his name, was as stunned as any guest on his first visit since the 的法国传奇大厨 Alain Ducasse 初次踏入时,也不由 modern wonder known as Morpheus was completed. “My reaction was just ‘wow,’” 得赞叹不已。他说 : 「当时我不禁发出长长一声『哇 !』 he says. “It’s incredible – the materials, the execution. We worked really hard, because 这里使用的建材、建筑师的鬼斧神工,都让 this entire restaurant is 100 percent customized. It’s completely contemBY 人由衷佩服。这是一座百分之百客制化的建 porary and takes high gastronomy to a new dimension. It was imperative CHRIS DWYER 筑,构思设计耗费了相当大的心力。它现代 to reflect the modernity of this fabulous structure.” 化的外型,将精品美食提升到新的层次,华 The structure in question is the mind-blowing creation of the late 丽的结构更让整体建筑的现代性展露无遗。 」 British architect Dame Zaha Hadid. Morpheus has been called “an impossible build这座让人赞叹的建筑是已故英国建筑师扎哈.哈迪 ing, a unique masterpiece,” and it emphatically lives up to the billing. As the world’s 德女爵士的精心杰作。摩珀斯酒店向来有着「不可能的 first free-form, exoskeleton-bound high-rise, it is constructed from a quantity of 建筑、无可取代的杰作」之称号,而它也绝非浪得虚名。 steel four times the weight of the iron used in the Eiffel Tower and enough alumin作为世界首座自由形态外骨骼结构的摩天大楼,使用钢材 ium to make nine million soda cans. The lobby could hold a double Ferris wheel. 的总重高达艾菲尔铁塔所用铁材的四倍,使用的铝也足以 As Chef Ducasse tours the room, the degree of energy and enthusiasm he from the vine

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Lettuce broth, sea scallop and gold caviar (Voyages)

Voyages

菜汤、扇贝和黄金鱼子酱(风雅厨)

「风雅厨」

制造九百万个汽水罐。大厅空间更可容纳一整座双轴摩天 has for the project couldn’t be more evident. “We had to be as ambitious as this 轮。 architectural fantasy is – it’s really a contemporary Eiffel Tower.” 跟着名厨 Alain Ducasse 的脚步参观餐厅,笔者可以 He delights in showing off a part of his personal collection of vintage glass感受到他对于餐厅事务源源不绝的精力与热情。他说 : 「我 ware, crystal, and cookware. Cabinets of floor-to-ceiling glass are filled with 们的野心可不能输给这座梦幻建筑-『现代艾菲尔铁塔』 。 」 treasures, from early-twentieth-century Baccarat and Lalique pieces to precious 主厨开心地展示私人收藏的经典玻璃器皿、水晶和厨 porcelain and nineteenth-century copper pans. “Our antique Lalique collection is 具。落地玻璃橱柜放满各式各样的宝藏,从二十世纪初的巴 exceptional. These pieces are from 1920, and we’re going to use them here in 卡拉与莱俪制品,到珍贵瓷器和十九世纪的铜锅。Alain 称 : the private dining room. I think this is our most beautiful restaurant, to be men「我们的骨董莱俪收藏品于 1920 年制造,绝对不同凡响,产 tioned in the same breath as Paris and Monaco.” 品将在私人包厢使用。我由衷认为这是我们最美的餐厅,与 The contemporary design elements are also of the highest quality. “All 旗下巴黎和摩纳哥的餐厅可说是旗鼓相当。 」 the glasses are made for us in Prague,” he says, “and the materials are the 餐厅内装同样展现出最高品质的现代设计元素。Alain 说 : very best leather, crystal, and wood. Look at the table – the napkins are the 「所有玻璃都在布拉格订做,其他材料包括顶级的皮革、水晶和 finest voile. And the art in the restaurant – only in Monaco is there this level.”

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TASTING NEWS

Coffee and chocolate from manufacturer in Paris, toasted buckwheat (Alain Ducasse at Morpheus)

Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 「杜卡斯餐厅」

PIERRE MONETTA (4)

咖啡、巴黎自家厂房朱古力、烤荞麦(杜卡斯餐厅)

木材。拿这张桌子来说,使用的餐巾都是以最好的薄纱制成, The view from the private dining room into the huge state-of-the更别说餐厅内的艺术品,只有在摩纳哥才能找到这样的质感。 」 art kitchen reveals a special feature: “With the glass in here, at a touch of a 透过私人包厢观景窗可观赏最先进的大型厨房,而这面 button, you can watch the kitchen in action or have complete privacy. A beau「客人可观赏厨房的运作情形, 窗户亦内藏玄机。Alain 表示 : tiful silver tray in the middle of the table will be the centerpiece. It’s perfect, 但只要切换按钮,亦可让玻璃变得不透光,完全享有私人空间。 especially for game dishes in autumn.” 包厢餐桌中央的精美银制托盘是空间焦点,搭配的完美无瑕, Alain Ducasse at Morpheus, along with Voyages by Alain Ducasse, the 非常适合用来呈上秋季野味。 」 maestro’s second restaurant on the same floor at the new hotel, promises to 主厨四十多年来创造各式大胆新颖的料理。因此,无 be the perfect platform for celebrating the brilliantly innovative cuisine he has 论是「杜卡斯餐厅」 ,或是他在酒店同楼层的另一家餐厅「风 delivered for more than four decades. “When you have the means,” he says, 雅厨」 ,都是能让主厨的料理发光发热的绝佳舞台。Alain “you can do something extraordinary like this that reflects a harmony of tradition 说: 「只要行事有方,就能成就卓越,融贯古今的美事。 and modernity. Whether you appreciate it or not, you simply can’t be ambivalent! 不论你欣赏与否,总得有自己的立场!我们最终的目标, Ultimately, our ambition is to make guests happy, fill them with curiosity, and open their eyes.” 就是让客人感到尽兴、充满好奇并大开眼界。 」 from the vine

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Eggs in an Egg 蛋中蛋

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复杂的纯粹

complex simplicity In Singapore, Chef Kirk Westaway brings dedication and integrity to his unique style of modern European cuisine.

「我在 2015 年当上主厨,随后的半年都 “AFTER I BECAME HEAD CHEF IN 2015, I slept 」新加坡 睡 在 角 落 那 张 10 号 桌 底 下。 under Table 10 over there in the corner for the JAAN 」 餐 厅 主 厨 「 Kirk Westaway 回 忆 first six months,” says Kirk Westaway of restau道,边说边指向一处景观绝佳的位置, rant Jaan in Singapore, gesturing to a spot with a 新加坡知名的滨海湾花园在底下一览无 spectacular vista over the city’s famous Gardens by 遗。他继续说 : 「我当时每天只睡四小时 the Bay. “I’d sleep for four hours, go into the kitchen 就起床,进厨房洗一下脸就 and splash my face with water, and resume 继续做菜。 」 BY cooking.” 这名年仅 33 岁的英国大 LUCY MORGAN According to the thirty-three-year-old British 厨表示,他之所以如此刻苦, chef, his reason for living so austerely was the skepti是因为他感受到别人对他的 PHOTOGRAPHY BY cism he sensed about whether he’d be able to cope 质疑,认为他无法扛起重任 DAVID HARTUNG with running such a prestigious restaurant. “I made 经 营 这 间 声 名 远 播 的 餐 厅。 a decision there and then – I could either work hard 称 : 「那一刻我就下定决心,要么勤 Kirk and prove myself or give up and just chill out. I decided to work.

I personally delivered dessert to every table at every service, so people would get to know who I was. I didn’t see my friends or family, I lost weight, and my relationship with my girlfriend ended – all I did was work.” His sacrifices, however, brought results: in 2016, Jaan won a star in the first edition of the Singapore Michelin guide and has kept it ever since. Westaway grew up in Devon, a rural county in the West of England famed for abundant seafood, lush pastures, and rich dairy

奋工作证明自己,要么干脆举手投降并 放纵自己。最后我选择了努力工作。面 对每一餐、每一组客人,我都亲自将甜 点端上桌,让客人知道我是谁。那段时 间我不和亲友见面,体重一直下降,也 」 和女友分手了。 每天就只有不断工作。 然而,Kirk 的牺牲没有白费,最终取得 丰硕的成果。 「JAAN」于 2016 年荣获第

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products. Although he now eats meat, he was raised as a vegetarian, and his family grew their own vegetables. It was this countryside childhood that has largely shaped Westaway’s culinary approach. He favors plant-led dishes and always insists on fresh produce raised with integrity. At Jaan, the chef recounts the evolution of his signature dish, which is served in a large ceramic egg. The container’s surface is smooth and warm to the touch, and when the top is removed, a cloud of rosemary-scented smoke rises to perfume the air. Inside, under a tousled heap of pickled and roasted mushrooms, lies a silky egg-white custard concealing thin slices of gently steamed cauliflower. The egg yolk rests on the mushrooms like a blazing sun partly obscured by a luscious dark cloud of caviar. Westaway has been continually developing the recipe since he started out as a commis chef in England. “On my first attempt, I made the whole egg into a custard, and then put an extra yolk on top. It was delicious, but too rich for a ten-course tasting menu. Then I tried using only the whites in the custard, and the balance was correct. I realized

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一本《新加坡米其林指南》一星的殊荣,一直维持 至今。

Kirk 出生于英格兰西部的德文郡。这个充满 乡村风情的地区,以丰富的海鲜食材、绿草如茵的 草原,以及滋味曼妙的乳制品闻名于世。虽然 Kirk 现在是肉食主义者,但他小时候家里奉行素食主 义,亦会自行种植蔬菜。乡村的童年时光,塑造了 他今日的美食哲学。 他倾向创作以蔬食为主的菜 式,且坚持选用用心培育的新鲜食材。

Kirk 在「JAAN」向我们娓娓道来他拿手招牌 菜的演进史。这道菜式盛在一颗蛋形的陶瓷容器 中上桌,容器的表面质地光滑,摸起来很温暖,一 掀开容器的顶部,伴着迷迭香味的热气便如云雾上 腾,餐桌上顿时香气四溢。容器内,经过腌渍烘烤


“ I realized I’d been trying to make something special out of something that was already special. An egg is perfect the way it is. 我发现我一直以 来都在尝试创造 一个独特的菜 式,但却忽视了 食材本身的独到 之处,其实一 颗鸡蛋本来就 已完美无瑕。“ KIRK WESTAWAY

I’d been trying to make something special out of something that was already special. An egg is perfect the way it is.” Initially, waiters brought the ceramic eggs to the table and served the dish by lifting the lids, but Westaway decided he wanted diners to experience greater sensual interaction with the food. Now, the containers are warmed under the pass lights and brought to the table, where guests are instructed to open them themselves. By feeling the warmth in their hands, releasing and inhaling the fragrance, and glimpsing the multiple layers within, they engage three of their senses before even tasting the delicacy. Creating dishes that are beautiful without being showy, Westaway might well claim humility and simplicity as his culinary mantras. While the techniques he employs are often complex and demanding, the flavors of his dishes retain a natural, almost rustic, purity. “I want guests to understand what’s going on,” he says. “My food is simple – things you’d recognize right away, but presented with elegance.” One of his snacks, for example, is immediately identifiable as hummus on a cracker. But it is imaginatively

处理的蘑菇叠成堆,底下则有丝缎般柔滑的蛋白奶 黄静静躺卧,盖住蒸白花椰菜薄片。一颗黄橙橙的 蛋黄静置蘑菇堆之上,像极了炙热的太阳,而蛋黄 之上、丰满多汁的鱼子酱恰如一抹乌云斜蔽旭日。 早在 Kirk 于英格兰出道,并担任助理厨师时, 他就开始不断研发改良这道菜。他表示 : 「我第一 次尝试时,把整颗蛋都做成了奶黄,然后上面再放 一颗蛋黄,这尝起来是很美味,但在总共十道菜的 主厨精选套餐中太抢戏了。后来我尝试只用蛋白制 作奶黄,终于抓到绝佳平衡。我发现我一直以来都 在尝试创造一个独特的菜式,但却忽视了食材本身 的独到之处,其实一颗鸡蛋本来就已完美无瑕。 」 原本服务生将蛋形陶瓷容器端上桌时,会替 客人掀开容器顶部,但后来 Kirk 认为不妨让食客 from the vine

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← Tapioca and hummus 木薯片配鹰 嘴豆泥

← Scottish scallop, chestnut mushroom cannelloni 苏格兰扇贝, 栗子蘑菇面卷

reincarnated as a feather-light tapioca biscuit topped with piped aerated hummus, slivers of briny anchovy, and glistening olive-oil pearls. Another notable hors d’oeuvre honors his home: piquant balls of Devon cheddar are wrapped in savory pancakes and topped with miniature Devon county flags. “I trained in French restaurants when I was younger,” he says, “but I also try to bring my vegetableforward style and English roots to the table here in Singapore. We need to get the word out about how good the food and produce of the UK really are.”

和食材之间产生更丰富的感官互动。现在容 器会先使用灯具加热才端上桌,服务生会指 示客人亲手掀开容器。食客感受到握在手中 的温度,大口吸入掀开盖子后弥漫空中的香 气,然后瞥见食物在容器中丰富的层次,在 美妙的滋味于舌尖绽放之前,便已抢先体验 色、香、温的三重感官盛宴。

Kirk 创作的菜式绝美无瑕却又毫不招摇, ← Ivory caramel 象牙焦糖甜点

谦逊和简洁可以说是他料理哲学的关键词。 虽然他料理的技术往往既复杂又困难,但端 出的菜式却总能保持一种浑然天成、质朴无 华的纯净口味。他表示 : 「我希望让客人一目 了然。我的料理很单纯,都是一眼就能看出 的东西,但要优雅地呈现。 」举例来说,Kirk 的一道小菜,一眼就能看出是置于饼干上的 鹰嘴豆泥,但经过丰富想像力的重塑,摇身 一变成了轻如鸿毛的木薯粉饼干,盛着经充 气处理的鹰嘴豆泥,配上咸味的鯷鱼切片, 佐以闪闪发亮的橄榄油鱼子。

Kirk 还 创 作 了 一 道 开 胃 菜 向 他 的 家 乡 致敬,这就是咸味的松饼包覆辛辣的德文郡 切达奶酪球,上面配有代表德文郡旗的绿、 「我年轻时在 黑、 白 三 色 食 材。 Kirk 说 道 : 法式餐厅接受训练,但也试着把我蔬食优先 的风格和英国背景端上新加坡的餐桌。我们 得让大家知道,英国的食物和食材其实非常 出色。 」

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King crab, spring peas, fromage blanc 帝王蟹,春豌豆,白奶酪


Galaxy

Float

Chef Fodil Baghal from Malaysia

Chef Sebastien Zhong from China

Black and White Coffee Cream

Charbon

Chef Ken Thomas from Hong Kong

Chef David Landriot from Singapore


COMPETITION

鲜奶油甜点荟萃

the theme is cream An international pastry challenge brings together French cream, French chocolate, and eleven talented chefs.

COURTESY OF CNIEL (4)

IF THERE’S SUCH A THING AS A SILVER BULLET in the arsenal of the pastry chef, it must be authentic French cream. This delectable secret weapon, produced under the strictest French national standards of quality and freshness, displays an astonishing versatility – it can silkily thicken, add velvety richness, or lend an airy finishing touch with just a single dollop. An infinite source of culinary inspiration and delight, French cream is the elegant ally that no pastry kitchen can safely do without. To celebrate and showcase this indulgent necessity, CNIEL, the umbrella organization for the European dairy industry, extended its annual challenge to some of the world’s leading pastry talent. Eleven noted pastry chefs representing ten geographic regions – France, Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Korea, Malaysia, China, Singapore, and Taiwan – were invited to take part in the fifth edition of La Crème de la Crème in Singapore. The event, held in association with Sopexa, is part of a coordinated program to promote French dairy products in Asia. This year, La Crème de la Crème’s theme was “Cream and Chocolate.” The chefs were tasked with pairing French cream and Valrhona Manjari 64% chocolate to create an original dessert for presentation at the Food&HotelAsia (FHA) expo. Participants had two full days at the prestigious At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy to conceive and prepare their desserts. Armed with every tool imaginable, including the indispensable blowtorch, the chefs painstakingly and repeatedly whipped, baked, froze, piped, and poured. With a slew of jostling journalists and photographers in the room, they faced the additional challenge of keeping cool, calm, and composed under pressure. Nicolas Bacheyre, Executive Pastry Chef at Un Dimanche à Paris, put it succinctly when asked about the role of French cream

若要问糕点主厨的百宝袋里有什么秘密武器, 那纯正法式奶油肯定为不二之选。此种美味秘 密,来自法国对品质与新鲜度严格管控的国家 标准,而法式奶油用途广泛,可让糕点质地如 天鹅绒般丝滑醇厚,亦可作为最后的蓬松点缀, 带给烹饪无限乐趣与想像,可说是糕点厨房中 最不可或缺的优雅战友。 为了赞扬并展示这受人喜爱的糕点必备 材料,欧洲乳业旗下的法国国家乳制品协会

(CNIEL) 特别将一年一度的挑战赛扩大举办成世 界顶尖的厨艺较劲大会。11 位大名鼎鼎的糕点 主厨来自十个国家及地区,其中包括法国、沙 特阿拉伯、阿拉伯联合酋长国、印尼、韩国、 马来西亚、 、新加坡、中国内地、中国香港与中 国台湾。他们将在新加坡第五届 La Crème de la Crème 全球顶尖糕饼师傅大赛中大展身手。 此次活动由法国食品协会 (Sopexa) 共同协办, 两大协会合力将法国乳制品推广到亚洲地区。 今年大赛的主题是「奶油与巧克力」 ,主 厨 们 必 须 使 用 法 式 奶 油 和 Valrhona Manjari

64% 巧克力创造独一无二的甜点,并在亚洲国 际食品与酒店展 (FHA) 中展出。 参赛者可利用两天时间,在享负盛名的新 加坡香阳环球厨师学院 (At-Sunrice GlobalChef

Academy) 构思与制作甜点。厨房内各式器具 应有尽有,其中包括必备的喷灯,以及制作时 需反复进行搅拌、烘培、冷冻、挤压、倾倒等 工序的相关器具。厨房内更有记者与摄影师摩 肩接踵、旁观,因此心态稳定与压力应对也是 对参赛者的附加考验。

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当被问及法式奶油于烹饪过程中担任的 角色时,巴黎「Un Dimanche à Paris」行政 「在制 糕点主厨 Nicolas Bacheyre 简单表示 : 作糕点时无它不可,几乎是所有糕点的基本 材料。 」 对于需在完全陌生的厨房中烹饪,台北 「芙芙法式甜点」的糕点主厨兼老板 Camille 「找到适合的工具不容易,但只 Cheng 表示 : 要找齐了,一切就得心应手了。 」 虽然场内气氛认真严肃,但糕点主厨之 间还是洋溢着友好融洽的气氛。香港「ÉPURE」 和「DALLOYAU」糕 点 主 厨 Ken Thomas 说 : 「这个活动的精神意义真的非常棒。 」Ken 主 厨年轻且充满热情与创造力,将此次活动当 作与其他糕点主厨交流意见、切磋技巧的绝 佳机会。 有些主厨将自己国家的特色融入其中, 例如杜拜 Bateel International 行政糕点主厨

Vincent Cockenpot 就在甜点中加入了一点中 东风味,他说 : 「除了奶油、牛奶和榛果饼干 外,蛋糕中还包含一层薄薄的伊朗黑柠檬。 」 而 Camille 主厨则添加了台湾蜂蜜红茶,让甜 点带有温暖香甜的气息。

Ken 主厨在甜点中使用三种不同的咖啡, 他说 : 「我希望找到一种材料能与奶油和巧克 力完美搭配却又不喧宾夺主,终于发现咖啡 起了绝佳的辅助作用,让两个主角的风味毫 不掩饰地散发出来。 」做出的成品是精致的黑 白方体,一片闪闪发亮的叶片 优雅地点缀其上。 经过两日的竭尽心力,主 厨们一同站上亚洲国际食品与 酒店展的亚洲杯甜点大赛舞台, 展示香甜可口的法式奶油甜点。

11 件作品摆在台上,每一件看 起来都充满创意又赏心悦目。摄 影师为这些甜点拍下精美照片, 汇编于限量供应的烹饪书中供 学生与糕点师傅参考。Ken 主厨 代表发言 : 「我们并不是孤军奋 战,过程中大家都互助合作一 同奋斗。 」

BENOIT MARTIN (3), COURTESY OF CNIEL (4)

in his cooking: “It’s always required in pastry making – it constitutes the basis of pretty much everything.” Camille Cheng, pastry chef and owner of Taipei’s Escape from Paris, remarked on the challenge of working in a completely unfamiliar kitchen: “Finding the right equipment can be hard, but once you do, everything’s fine.” Although seriousness and determination pervaded, a sense of camaraderie was evident among the chefs. “The spirit of this event is fantastic,” said Ken Thomas, head pastry chef at ÉPURE and DALLOYAU in Hong Kong. Youthful, passionate, and inventive, Thomas found the gathering a great opportunity to meet fellow pastry chefs and share ideas, techniques, and designs. Some chefs incorporated ingredients from the countries they represented. Executive Pastry Chef Vincent Cockenpot of Bateel International in Dubai, for instance, included a Middle Eastern twist: “In addition to cream, milk, and hazelnut biscuit, my cake is made with a thin layer of Iranian black lemon.” And Chef Cheng infused her pastry with Taiwanese honey red tea to give it a warm, sweet fragrance. Chef Thomas included three varieties of coffee in his creation. “I really wanted to find something that would match with the cream and chocolate but not change the flavors,” he explained. “The coffee just fits perfectly with both ingredients without hiding any of the tastes.” The result is a checkered display of precise black and white squares, delicately topped with gold leaf. After an arduous two days in the kitchen, the chefs at last assembled on the Asia Pastry Cup stage at Food&HotelAsia to present their luscious French cream showpieces to the crowd. The eleven entries, each one with imaginative flavor combinations and exceptional eye appeal, were photographed and the recipes compiled in a limited-edition cookbook for students and pastry chefs. “We weren’t working alone here,” said Chef Thomas, speaking for everyone, “we were all working together.”


Splash

Piedmont in the Cloud

Chef Camille Cheng from Taiwan

Chef Vincent Cockenpot from UAE

Creamy Finger

Vanilla Choc

Chef Nicolas Bacheyre from France

Chef Antoine Chassonnery from UAE


TASTING DESTINATION

跨界艺术

CHANGING COURSES In a city famed for schnitzel and pastries, fine dining takes a new turn.

TIAN


KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU

COURTESY OF TIAN, COURTESY OF KONSTANTIN FILIPPOU, IRINA THALHAMMER

SHIKI

维也纳的魅力元素不计其数,如巴洛克皇宫、 VIENNA, THE GRACIOUS CENTRAL EUROPEAN CAPITAL that counts 洛可可室内音乐、Gustav Klimt 闪亮的镶金杰 baroque palaces, rococo chamber music, and the gold-spangled 作等,而这座平易近人的中欧首都现正转型成 masterworks of Gustav Klimt among its charms, is today transform讲究品味的美食之都。在这里,米其林星级餐 ing itself into a gastronomic destination. A burgeoning number of 厅如雨后春笋般涌现,还大量采用由奥地利丰 Michelin-starred restaurants offers a surprising range of world-class 饶土质与纯净湖水栽培而成的上乘在地食材, contemporary dining experiences. These establishments are making 为饕客带来多样化的国际级当代餐饮体验。 imaginative use of the spectacular local products available from TK 此次造访三家较年轻的维也纳本地餐 Austria’s fertile fields and pristine lakes. TK visits three of Vienna’s younger restaurants that exemplify 厅。三者均可证明这座城市对高级餐饮的追求 已众所皆知,且百花齐放。「Tian」在中文里是 how the city’s love for good food and drink has been diversifying 「天堂」的「天」的意思,对这家只 in all directions. Tian, a restaurant with celestially freshBY 供应新鲜食材的餐厅而言,这个店名 flavored offerings, is aptly named with the Chinese LUCY MORGAN 再恰当不过。领军的克罗地亚裔主厨 word for heaven. It is helmed by a Tyrol-born chef with 生于奥地利蒂罗尔州,他总能找到最 Croatian roots whose ability to find the most perfect 上乘的食材,并精心炮制成美味可口的蔬食料 produce and fashion it into vegetarian tasting menus that appeal 理,以至于最死忠的肉食主义者都纷纷将这家 even to dedicated carnivores has put Tian in their exclusive ranks of 米其林一星级餐厅收藏至私房名单。 meat-free restaurants that have won a Michelin star. 下一家餐厅则结合维也纳对音乐的珍视以 Next on the itinerary is a discovery that unites Vienna’s appre及对美馔的讲究,格外与众不同。同样有米其 ciation of music and its taste for fine food. Michelin-starred SHIKI is

an authentic Japanese restaurant with European flair owned by an international violinist and conductor. Finally, TK experiences a kitchen where Mediterranean flavors meld with Austrian culinary traditions to give birth to a cuisine that is striking, delightful, and moving. At his two-Michelin-star establishment, the hugely talented Konstantin Filippou explains his uniquely personal approach to cooking. Each of the three restaurants offers an intriguing selection of Austrian wines, from the elegant to the rustic and natural. And to let us in on what is another of Austria’s best-kept secrets, Xania Wong leads us on a tour through the country’s vineyards, explaining the range of terroirs and the effects they have on the many varietals under cultivation.

林星星加持的「SHIKI」是一家带有欧式风格的 正宗日式餐厅,其老板还是位国际级小提琴家 与指挥家。 最后一站,TK 来到一家完美融合地中海风 味与奥地利传统美食的餐厅,那令人屏息、愉悦、 心动的料理于焉诞生。在这家荣获米其林二星 的餐厅,厨艺精湛的 Konstantin Filippou 把他 独特的烹调手法娓娓道来。 这三家高档食府全都供应香醇诱人的奥地 利佳酿,高雅的、质朴的、天然的应有尽有。至 于奥地利另一个最深藏不露的秘密? Xania Wong 将带我们走访奥地利葡萄园,了解各地不同的风 土条件及其对当地各种葡萄及酒品的影响。 from the vine

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日式维也纳

viennese japanese SHIKI presents contemporary Japanese cuisine with a European accent.


IRINA THALHAMMER (2), COURTESY OF SHIKI, RUDOLFTHALHAMMER

TASTING DESTINATION

A GRAND PIANO FORMS THE STRIKING FOCAL POINT of the fine dining room of SHIKI Japanese Fine Dining | Brasserie | Bar, located

「SHIKI」精致日式餐酒馆坐落于维也纳风景优

near the legendary Vienna State Opera house in the heart of the city’s beautiful and historic cultural center. The gleaming instrument is just one symbol of the intimate association between food and music that pervades this very special destination. SHIKI’s host-owner, Joji Hattori, is an acclaimed violinist and conductor, whose classical recordings drift through the restaurant for guests to enjoy as they savor the remarkable dishes created by his kitchens. Inside the dynamic brasserie, sushi chefs craft their creations at a special station in the center of the space. Beyond lies the newly Michelin-starred restaurant, offering authentic Japanese fine dining in elegant surroundings – one wall is dramatically finished in piano-black lacquer inspired by traditional urushi ware. “We offer guests a variety of experiences within one space,” says Restaurant Manager Thomas Grund, “including outdoor seating for diners who’d like to absorb the atmosphere of our lovely capital.” For proprietor Hattori, SHIKI is an expression of his life and his loves. Born in Tokyo, he moved to Vienna at the age of eight and soon began his musical studies. His career as a violinist and conductor took him around the world for twenty years before he returned to Vienna in 2011 and opened SHIKI in 2015, uniting his twin passions of good food and good music. The name of the restaurant, which can mean both “four seasons” and “conducting” in Japanese, was chosen to reflect the emphasis the restaurant places on seasonal ingredients as well as the background of its owner. Hattori’s kitchen team faithfully represents both his native and adopted lands: the kitchen director and chef de cuisine, Alois Traint, is  an Austrian formerly in charge of renowned Viennese restaurants like Vestibül and Walter Bauer, and the sushi master is a Fukuoka native who has worked in Austria for several years. Grund recommends the omakase menu, a pitch-perfect series of five or seven courses chosen for guests by the chefs and prepared from the finest seasonal ingredients available that day. It invariably includes SHIKI’s own contemporary-style sushi, an irresistible selection of the freshest fish combined with perfectly

维也纳国家歌剧院。主要用餐区摆放一架硕大

美、历史人文荟萃的市中心,临近赫赫有名的 的三角钢琴,无疑是众所瞩目的焦点,而这光 洁闪亮的乐器,亦象征着食物与音乐在这里紧 密交织的关系。 开设「SHIKI」餐厅的 Joji Hattori 是位举世 闻名的小提琴家与指挥家。Joji 的经典表演乐 音在餐厅里流淌,宾客在此可一边品尝厨房精 心炮制的佳肴,一边享受音乐。 活力洋溢的餐厅里,只见师傅在餐厅中央 别致的吧台内捏制寿司,为饕客提供正宗的日 式精致料理。刚获米其林星星加持的「SHIKI」 环境雅致清幽,其中一面墙甚至涂着钢琴琴身 般的黑色亮漆,犹如传统漆器。 「我们在 餐 厅 经 理 Thomas Grund 表 示 : 这个空间里为顾客提供多重体验,甚至有户外 用餐区,让饕客浸淫在华美典雅的氛围当中。 」 「SHIKI」体现了他 对餐厅老板 Joji 而言, 的生活与挚爱。出生于东京的他八岁便移居维 也纳,并很快开始了音乐研习生活。他曾以小 提琴家和指挥家的身份旅居世界各地二十年,

2011 年才回到维也纳,2015 年他结合两项挚爱: 「SHIKI」在 美馔与天籁,开设「SHIKI」餐厅。 日文里有「四季」和「指挥」两种意思,是他 刻意取用,以反映餐厅对当令新鲜食材的重视 及自己的背景。

Joji 的厨房团队亦是他出生地和成长地的 完全体现。厨房总监兼厨师长 Alois Traint 是土 生土长的奥地利人,曾经在数间知名的维也纳 餐 厅 如「Vestibül」 和「Walter Bauer」 掌 厨。 餐厅的寿司大师来自福冈,并在奥地利工作多 年,烹调日式料理的工夫当然不在话下。

Thomas 首推「厨师发办」菜单,由主厨 为顾客精选五到七道菜式,用当天最上乘的时 令食材制备,其中必有「SHIKI」独家具当代风 格的寿司、数种令人难以抗拒的鲜鱼,搭配拌

Teriyaki-duroc-pork belly and octopus

Kyoto Drift

照烧杜洛克猪五花肉及章鱼

京都绝景

Sashimi of cold-smoked organic salmon

Organic Austrian carp with Japanese miso-spiced butter, red beet, egg yolk, black garlic

冷熏有机三文鱼刺身

有机奥地利鲤鱼配日本味噌黄油、红甜菜、蛋黄及黑蒜

from the vine

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↖ Alois Traint, Chef de Cuisine 厨师长 ↑ Masahiro Yamada, First Sushi Master 首席寿司大师 ← From left to right: Restaurant Manager Thomas Grund, Joji Hattori, Host and Owner and General Manager Hendrik Mergell 从左至右为餐 厅经理Thomas Grund,餐厅老板 Joji Hattori 及总经 理 Hendrik Mergell ↗ SHIKI’s Michelinstarred fine dining room with the iconic grand piano 米其林星级餐厅 「SHIKI」内放 置了一台标志 性的三角钢琴

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ANDREAS RIEDMANN (3), BRUNO KLOMFAR

TASTING DESTINATION

cooked rice seasoned with an aged vinegar. Another favorite dish is confit salmon; the unbelievably tender flesh is balanced with a bright wasabi broth and the sweetness of candied ginger. In the dessert department, the restaurant’s pastry chefs often combine Austria’s renowned pâtisserie skills with Japanese flavors. True to the spirit of SHIKI, Grund likes to match Japanese fish dishes with white wines from Austria: “They pair exquisitely.” He serves the omakase menu’s sushi course with an Austrian natural wine whose apple-like acidity perfectly complements the starchiness of the sushi rice. A delicate ceviche of sea bass with creamy avocado and hints of green chili is matched with the lime and passion-fruit notes of a native sauvignon blanc. Hattori, who is currently associate guest conductor at the Vienna Chamber Orchestra, applies the skills of his musical pursuits to the operation of his restaurant. Accustomed to creating a symphony of sound by keeping different sections of the orchestra in balance, he has achieved at SHIKI a perfect harmony between the precision of Japanese cuisine and the warmth of Austrian hospitality. Says Grund, perfectly expressing the famed Viennese welcome, “What motivates me most is turning guests

顾客变成朋友。 」这也正是维也纳待客热情的

into friends.”

最佳写照。

入陈年老醋、煮得软硬恰好的醋饭。另一道深 受欢迎的料理是油封鲑鱼,除了肉质软滑,还 佐以清新爽口的山葵清汤与甜渍姜片平衡口 感。甜点方面,餐厅的糕饼师傅则往往融合奥 地利著名的烘焙技艺与日式口味。 同 样 忠 于「SHIKI」 的 精 神,Thomas 喜 欢以奥地利白酒佐日式鲜鱼料理,他说 : 「这 两者搭配得天衣无缝!」奥地利天然佳酿如苹 果般的酸度,刚好与「厨师发办」寿司饭的淀 粉质完美互补。其中一道柠檬腌日本海鲈生鱼 片,配上绵密滑顺的酪梨和一点辣椒,与当地 产制的长相思白酒带有的莱姆和百香果香气可 谓绝配。 目前在维也纳室内乐团担任副客席指挥 的 Joji,将对音乐精湛的追求运用在餐厅的经 营上。平时习惯于平衡交响乐团不同乐器声部 以奏出和谐乐音的他,也在「SHIKI」将日式 料理的一丝不苟,与奥地利的温馨好客融为一 「我最大的动力来源就是把 体。Thomas 说 :

from the vine

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蔬食盛宴

plant-based pleasures In a city famed for its schnitzel, an adventurous chef sets the style for meat-free fine dining.

“I MYSELF AM NOT A VEGETARIAN,” admits Paul Ivić, chef de cuisine of Vienna’s restaurant Tian, one of a mere handful of Michelin-starred restaurants around the world that serve meatless cuisine. “But even our investor converted to vegetarianism after the restaurant opened in 2011 – mainly because our food is so delicious.” Ivić had to be patient with customers, who were bewildered at first by the menu. “Sometimes,” he says,

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“guests would stare at it and ask, ‘You’re vegetarian?’ Then they’d get up and leave. And a big problem was convincing people to eat multiple courses – they said it was too expensive.” A popular notion that vegetarian food is ascetic, simple, and low-end is belied by Tian’s lavish eightand ten-course tasting menus crafted from premium regional produce and accompanied by a selection of predominantly Austrian fine wines.


TASTING DESTINATION

“The first two years were very hard,” says Ivić, “but we persisted.” With an international background in classic European cuisine, the accomplished chef had to learn from scratch how to create interesting vegetarian food. “My chef friends told me I was mad, but I enjoy a challenge.” Determination was rewarded with a Michelin star in 2014, an event that came as a shock: “I’d taken the day off, and my sous chef tried calling me five times. I got worried and called him back, and he told me we had a star. It was one of the greatest moments.” The recognition transformed Tian’s fortunes, with skeptical diners becoming true believers overnight. “Now, guests are happy to try our tasting menus,” says Ivić. Most of Tian’s customers, he finds, are not committed vegetarians: “I’d say 90 percent are simply intrigued by the idea of meatless fine dining.” Ivić’s interest in vegetarian food started with a personal health crisis. “I was the chef who was always shouting in the kitchen,” confesses the formerly high-strung perfectionist. His brush with ill health encouraged him to make lifestyle changes, and he now favors organic and biodynamic foods and teas made by a TCM practitioner. He has also developed a far more relaxed relationship with his kitchen team. Although the last few years have seen a sharp global rise in the number of vegetarians and vegans, Ivić isn’t interested in statistics. “I don‘t see what we do as a trend, but as a necessity. Over the last years, the food industry has made so many decisions that are bad for us and our health, but there could be enough good food for everybody on our planet.”

擅长经典欧式料理,经验丰富,但仍必须从头学习如何炮制别具 风味的蔬食菜式。他说 : 「我的厨师朋友们都说我疯了,但我乐于 接受挑战。 」坚定不移的信念终于有所回报,他在 2014 年意外地 迎来了第一颗米其林星星。他回忆道 : 「我当天休假,副主厨连续 拨了五通电话给我,害我不禁担心起来,回拨后,他告诉我餐厅 荣获一星殊荣。那真是最美妙的时刻啊 !」

「 我 本 身 并 不 是 素 食 者。 」 维 也 纳 餐 厅「Tian」 的 行 政 主 厨 Paul

Ivić 坦言。「Tian」是世界上少数荣获米其林星星的素食餐厅之一。 「但因为我们的菜式太过美味,就连我们的投资方在 2011 Paul 说 :

「我 味菜单了。 」同时,他发现多数「Tian」的顾客并非长年茹素 :

年餐厅开幕后,都改吃素了。 」

敢说有九成客人都只是对蔬食精致料理感到好奇。 」

其实一开始顾客对素食抱持怀疑的态度,这极度考验 Paul 的

INGO PERTRAMER (2)

这份肯定扭转了「Tian」的命运,原本心存怀疑的宾客一夕 「现在顾客很愿意尝试我们的尝 之间转变成虔诚的信徒。Paul 说 :

Paul 对素食产生兴趣源于他的个人健康危机。这位从前总是

耐心。他说: 「有时候顾客会盯着菜单瞧,问我『你是素食者吗?』 ,

神经紧张、容易激动的完美主义者承认 : 「以前我是那种老是在厨

然后就起身离开。要说服他们品尝多道主菜也是一大挑战,他们

房大吼大叫的厨师。 」然而身体状况亮起红灯,促使他改变生活方

会说太贵了。 」

式,如今他偏好食用传统中医的有机和生物动力农法产制的食品

许多人认为只有修行的人才会是素食者,而且素食料理普遍

和茶饮,与厨房团队的关系也远比以往和缓放松。

较为简单、亲民,然而「Tian」推出的豪华尝味菜单囊括八到十

尽管过去数年来全球纯素者和素食主义者数量剧增,Paul 对统

道主菜,全以顶级在地农产食材精心制作,搭配一系列重量级奥

计数字丝毫不在意。他表示 : 「我不认为我们所做的是一种风潮,而

地利佳酿,完全推翻大众对素食的刻板印象。

是一种必要。近几年来餐饮业做了太多不利并且对人类身体有害的

「头两年非常难熬,但我们撑过来了。 」这位大厨 Paul 表示 :

决策,但其实我们可以充分地让地球上每一个人享用健康饮食。 」 from the vine

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TASTING DESTINATION

维也纳飨宴

vienna’s culinary coastline

THE CHARISMATIC FIGURE WITH WILD DARK CURLS and a loud, infectious laugh prowls a space on the ground floor of a historic building in central Vienna. He hovers as his black-clad chefs work deftly at stations in the glass-fronted kitchen, creating dishes that have earned Chef Patron Konstantin Filippou’s eponymous restaurant two stars in the Michelin Guide Main Cities of Europe 2018. Filippou was raised by ardent food lovers, an Austrian mother and a Greek father, in a home where national dishes were lovingly cooked and quality ingredients were respected. “My parents,” he says, “were gourmets, not restaurateurs. When we went on holiday to Greece, my father would drive for three hours to find the best seafood place. I watched as my culinary peers invented their styles, but I didn’t need to figure mine out.”

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↖ Royale, crayfish, sepia 小龙虾汤 ↑ Pig snouts 猪鼻

ALAN KAVCIC, PER-ANDERS JORGENSEN (2)

A chef’s Austrian and Greek roots intertwine in dishes of ethereal delicacy.


在维也纳市中心一栋历史悠久的建筑物一楼, 一名气宇轩昂的男子顶着一头黑发来回走动, 不时爆出感染力十足的大笑声。在仅以透明 玻璃隔开的厨房中,男子带领的厨师均是一 身黑色装扮,手脚利落地在各自的岗位上工 作。 这 里 是 主 厨 兼 老 板 Konstantin Filippou 开设的同名餐厅。从这个厨房中端出的菜式, 正是让餐厅赢得《米其林指南欧洲主要城市

2018》两星殊荣的美味。 Konstantin 的母亲是奥地利人,父亲是 希腊人,两人虽来自不同国家,但都是美食 狂热者。他们重视高品质食材,在家也会烹 调自己国家的传统料理。他说 : 「我爸妈只是 老饕,不是开餐厅的。有一次放假我们到希 腊旅游,我爸一连开车三小时,就只为找到 一家最好吃的海鲜餐厅。我看着很多料理界 同行试着摸索自己的风格,但我根本不需要 经历这个过程。 」

Konstantin 有超凡的味觉记忆,可以随 心所欲地回忆起舌尖上的美味。他能回溯儿 时或旅行时品尝过的味道和闻过的香气,挥 洒想像力重新诠释,最后端出一道道绝妙的 菜式。

Konstantin 在奥地利接受训练,随后在 西班牙和伦敦掌厨,后来才回到维也纳,在 全市最有名的几间餐厅工作。他儿时的梦想 是开设自己的餐厅,而这个梦想终于在 2013 年三月成真,他的「Konstantin Filippou」餐 厅,推出的菜式完美结合了奥地利内陆最优 良的食材和从阳光灿烂的地中海而来的鲜美。 一年后,这间餐厅就摘下了米其林一星,今 年三月更喜迎第二颗星星加冕。

Konstantin 精力丰沛,整个人魅力无穷 却带点压迫感。光从外表看来,你可能会推 测这个人制作的料理,肯定是大胆突破、带 点大地风情,而且口味强烈、质地复杂。实 际上,不论是食物刚映入眼帘,还是抵上舌 尖迸发的滋味,都令人惊异无比。这名主厨 的料理是精致技艺的化身,而盛载食物的餐 具更是亲自设计,杯盘低调却美丽的风格和 餐厅极简的单色装潢相映成辉。每一道料理 纯粹的口味和轻盈的质地,已不单是感官的 享受,更是心灵的感动,是主厨用灵魂烹饪 的杰作。 食客纵身跃入主厨精选套餐的美食之旅 Konstantin Filippou

前,可先品尝精心设计的开胃小菜,其中一 道就是令人惊艳的小龙虾汤。小龙虾来自奥

from the vine

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Unagi 鳗鱼

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ALAN KAVCIC, PER-ANDERS JORGENSEN (4)

TASTING DESTINATION


Brandade, amur carp, Grüll caviar 盐渍鲤鱼泡沫配鱼子酱

A remarkable memory for flavors lets Filippou recall them at will. He is able to appropriate the tastes and aromas of his childhood and his travels and reinterpret them in his wonderfully imaginative cuisine. After training in Austria, Filippou cooked in Spain and London before returning to work in some of Vienna’s most well-known restaurants. His boyhood dream of running his own establishment came true in March 2013 when he opened Konstantin Filippou, whose offerings combine the best of landlocked Austria with the sunny coastal influences of the Mediterranean. One year later, the restaurant earned recognition with its first Michelin star; a second was awarded in March of this year. Filippou has an energetic intensity about his physical person that is both magnetic and slightly intimidating. One would guess that he creates bold and earthy food with punchy flavors and challenging textures. The reality comes as something of a shock, both visually and on the palate. His dishes, displaying delicacy and finesse, are served on crockery that he designs himself in a spare and beautiful style that reflects the décor of his monochrome, minimalist dining room. The purity of flavor and lightness of texture in every plate come across as

地利东部的布尔根兰州,汤品则是由鸡 「这 高汤和奶黄煮成。Konstantin 表示 : 道菜的鲜味是我们的重点。 」清汤的调味 如臻化境,小龙虾和奶黄相辅相成,衬 托出彼此丰满的口味和滑顺的口感。盛 在低调的赤陶土小瓮中,无疑是一道令 人赏心悦目的精致开胃菜。主厨进一步 解释 : 「这道菜的食材应该交融为一,在 唇齿间产生美妙的化学反应。 」实际滋味 亦是如此。 主厨精选套餐的主角之一是焗烤盐 渍 鱼, 这 更 是 Konstantin 的 拿 手 绝 活。 传统作法选用盐渍鳕鱼和乳化橄榄油, 餐厅则使用由马铃薯和产自下奥地利邦 的盐渍鲤鱼制成的泡沫,淋上满满的萨 尔茨堡鱼子酱增添咸味。Konstantin 说 道: 「我在圣塞瓦斯蒂安和巴塞隆纳学习

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Octopus, kritharáki, olive herb 章鱼,米粒面,橄榄


PER-ANDERS JÖRGENSEN (2)

TASTING DESTINATION

spiritual rather than visceral, as the expression of a man who cooks with his soul. One of the snacks offered to diners before embarking on the tasting menu is Filippou’s extraordinary Crayfish Royale. The shellfish comes from Burgenland, the royale is made from chicken stock and egg custard. “We are totally focusing on umami here,” says Filippou. The seasoning of the broth is perfect, while the crayfish and custard mirror each other’s rich flavor and silky texture. Served in a charmingly understated terra-cotta pot, it makes a delightful amusebouche. “It should,” explains the chef, “melt together and form a little explosion in the mouth.” It does exactly that. His remarkable Brandade, traditionally made from salt cod and olive oil emulsion, is part of the main tasting menu. A gentle foam made with potatoes and salted amur carp from Lower Austria is given extra salinity with a topping of rich caviar sourced from Salzburg. “I loved to make brandade when I was studying in San Sebastián and Barcelona,” says Filippou. “This dish is a classic Mediterranean recipe mixed with Austrian products, a big part of the philosophy of our cuisine.” Fuller-flavored ingredients like eel from Lake Neusiedl in Burgenland and rich Mangalica pork become elegant and refined under Filippou’s hand. In another of the tasting-menu courses, a slice of the perfectly cooked fish is topped with savory pork popcorn and rests on a light duck-liver foam. The dish is served with a chilled Austrian red wine. “A lot of great wine producers can be found in Austria,” says Filippou, “and we’re very proud of them.” The subtle touch continues through dessert, with a not-too-sweet mascarpone ice cream sandwiched between two of the thinnest strawberry crisps imaginable. Like many of his dishes, it manages to convey nostalgia and innovation at the same time. “My cuisine,” he says, “is neither modern nor traditional – it’s just me.”

Malt bread, onion butter 麦芽面包配洋葱黄油

时,很喜欢煮这道盐渍鱼,这道菜是传统地中海料理与奥地利食材的结合,充分 展示出我们的料理哲学。 」 其他味道更丰盈的食材,例如布尔根兰州新锡德尔湖的鳗鱼,和香味浓郁 的曼加利察猪肉,在主厨手中都变得高雅精致。套餐的另一道菜中,他在一片完 美烹调的鳗鱼之上,放置令人垂涎三尺的炸猪肉米花,底下是轻盈的鸭肝泡沫, 「奥地利有很多杰出的酒庄, 并随菜搭配一杯冰镇奥地利红酒。Konstantin 说 : 我们引以为傲。 」 甜点延续了「Konstantin Filippou」料理的细致优雅,薄到极致的两片草莓 脆片,夹着甜味恰到好处的马斯卡彭奶酪冰淇淋,如同他的其他菜式,同时传递 着思乡情愁,也展现新颖的创意。主厨表示 : 「我的料理既不现代也不传统,我 的料理自成一派。 」 from the vine

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品味奥地利美酒

austria uncorked

Central Europe’s up-and-coming wine region offers the world an abundance of top-tier choices just ripe for the picking.

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谈及奥地利的出口产品,可能以莫札特 的音乐最为人熟知,但近年当地生产的 多种世界级葡萄酒也声名鹊起,迅速在 全球市场攻城掠地。奥地利葡萄酒产地 与法国勃艮第纬度相若,阴凉气候相当 适合葡萄树生长。虽然跟全球其他产地 相比,奥地利目前 2.3 亿升的年产量仅 排在第 18 名,但酿酒选用了各种各样本 土及世界各地的葡萄,种类之广,超越 一般人的想像。多瑙河流经的南端山丘 区域及新锡德尔湖葡萄产区受到多瑙河 流域多种微气候影响,栽种土壤则包括 石灰质土及火山土,地形亦横跨结晶岩 梯型地及黄土地形,相当多元。 上世纪 80 年代的假酒丑闻一度重 创业界,但奥地利酿酒业近年急速上升 的成长态势让这成为尘封往事。然而塞 翁失马,焉知非福,此事件反而让当时 的酿酒业者团结一致,瞄准高端外销市

AWMB / WOBERT SOMMERAUER, LUKAN (2), KOMITEE KAMPTAL , G.TRUMLER

WHILE THE MUSIC OF MOZART may be Austria’s best-known export, the country’s growing roster of world-class wines is steadily gaining ground. Positioned at the same latitude as Burgundy, Austria is considered ideal cool-climate wine growing territory, and although its production of 2.3 million hectoliters gives it a modest ranking of eighteenth in the world by volume, its wines are made from a surprisingly wide range of indigenous and international grape varieties. They thrive in a diversity of microclimates influenced by the Danube River, the mountainous landscape south of the river, and Lake Neusiedl and in soil types ranging from calcareous and volcanic to crystalline stone terraces and loess layers. The Austrian wine industry’s rapid upward evolution has made the adulteration scandal of the 1980s a fast-fading memory. Perhaps a blessing in disguise, the episode drove Austrian producers to work together to build a quality-focused brand especially for the high-end export market. Establishing uber-strict wine laws distinguishing origins of production and making the switch to mainly dry rather than sweet white wines were smart measures that have enhanced Austria’s wine quality along with its international reputation. A visit to the biennial Vievinum, Austria’s largest wine trade show, is an eye-opening experience. Held at the Hofburg palace, it’s the best place


AUSTIAN WINE

场,打造国家葡萄酒的高端形象。通过极 严格的葡萄酒相关法令,建立原产地区别 标准,转以酿造味道偏干不甜的葡萄酒为 主,这几个聪明的作法确实有效提升奥地 利葡萄酒的品质,也大大提振了它在国际 上的声誉。 有机会造访两年一度、奥地利最大的 葡萄酒展会维也纳国际葡萄酒节可说是令 人大开眼界的体验,来到霍夫堡主会场, 可以一探奥地利蓬勃的葡萄酒市场,见证 酿酒商们对于品质把关所倾注的心力。 要了解奥地利葡萄酒,建议先了解当 地的分级制度。当地主要产区都集中在奥 地利下游,位于最北端且涵盖范围最大 ; 环绕首都区的小型产区维也纳 ;沿着匈牙 利边界的布尔根兰 ;以及最南端的施泰尔 马克。 与其他欧盟国家类似,奥地利将葡 萄 酒 分 成 地 区 酒 (Landwein) 或 优 质 酒

(Qualitätswein),又或是国产普级酒,如 奥地利国产酒 (Wein aus Österrich)。优质 酒代表了产区的独特风土及特性,需以 25 个法定酿酒产区所产、26 种法定葡萄种中 的单一或多种葡萄酿制而成,所有优质酒 均需通过联邦酿酒局核可才能上市。经认 证后,酒瓶会贴上仿奥地利国旗的红白红 相间标签,也会同时标注酒厂的注册号码。 优质酒中又以 DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus,奥地利法定产区规范 ) 地区 所产葡萄酒为最顶级,带有产区独有的特 性。13 个 DAC 产区早于 15 年前分级制度 from the vine

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AUSTIAN WINE

Not enough of the best Austrian wines are yet available in Asian markets, but, thankfully, things are changing. A Leithaberg DAC grüner veltliner, for example, would be a perfect match with Japanese shabu-shabu, or a blaufränkisch would pair beautifully with grilled steak.

实施初始便已制订,绝大部分以所产白 酒闻名,占全国白酒总出口量的七成, 但近年因平均温度上升、强调风土特色

亚洲市场上真正好的奥地利葡萄酒不甚

等因素,所酿红酒的品质也正急起直追。

齐全,不过此一趋势正在转变中。举例来

种 为 绿 维 特 利 纳 (grüner veltliner)、 威

奥地利最常用来酿造白酒的葡萄品 尔 士 雷 司 令 (welschriesling)、 雷 司 令

说,雷德堡的绿维特利纳白酒可作为日

(riesling) 及 白 比 诺 (weissburgunder) ;

式涮涮锅的绝佳拍档,又或以蓝弗朗克

克 (blaufränkisch)、蓝波特基斯 (blauer portugieser) 及 圣 罗 兰 (St. Laurent) 为

红酒搭配炙烤牛排,简直相得益彰 。

主。

红酒则是以茨威格 (zweigelt)、蓝弗朗

在亚洲,奥地利酒以绿维特利纳及 雷司令酿制的招牌白酒比较出名,多半 来自奥地利下游区域,包括瓦豪、威非 尔特、克雷姆斯谷及坎普谷等产区,出

wine, with specific regional typicity. Thirteen DACs have been designated since the start of the classification system fifteen years ago. While most DACs are known for their whites, which make up about 70 percent of the country’s output, the quality of reds has dramatically increased, due partly to gradually rising average temperatures and partly to the emphasis on expression of terroir. The most prevalent grapes grown for whites are grüner veltliner, welschriesling, riesling, and weissburgunder (pinot blanc). For reds, they are zweigelt, blaufränkisch, blauer portugieser, and St. Laurent. In Asia, Austrian wines are typically known for their flagship whites from

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产的绿维特利纳味道从胡椒味、辛辣到 青草味等,雷司令则是偏矿物质味及花 香多一些。 不过,其他产区及葡萄种的窜起速 度也很快,已成为奥地利葡萄酒出口的 新星。盲饮施泰尔马克南部所产的长相 思 (sauvignon blanc) 白酒,均衡的酸度、 矿物质味及恰到好处的中段强度,不说 还以为在喝法国桑塞尔所产的白酒。更

AWMB / WIRZ , ROBERT STAUDINGER

to explore the country’s dynamic wine scene and its very serious take on quality. Understanding Austrian wines requires an acquaintance with its classification system. The principal winegrowing areas are all in the eastern part of the country: Niederösterreich, or Lower Austria, the northernmost and largest; Wien, or Vienna, the small region surrounding the capital; Burgenland, along the border with Hungary; and Steiermark, or Styria, the southernmost. Austrian wines, like those of other EU countries, can be classified as either wines of origin, Landwein (“land wine”) or Qualitätswein (“quality wine”), or as generic wines of the country, Wein aus Österrich (“wine from Austria”). Qualitätswein are significant for their distinctive representation of terroir and typicity. Made from one or more of the twenty-six permitted grapes from twenty-five winegrowing regions, all Qualitätswein must be approved by the federal bureau of oenology. A Qualitätswein can be identified by the bottle’s red-white-red seal, based on the national flag, that is imprinted with the winery registration number. The highest level of Qualitätswein is DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus )


AWMB / FABER (6)

Welschriesling

Riesling

Grüner Veltliner

Zweigelt

St. Laurent

Blauer Portugieser

grüner veltliner and riesling, mainly from the Lower Austria region, covering growing areas such as Wachau, Weinviertel DAC, Kremstal DAC, and Kamptal DAC. Grüner veltliner from these areas can range from peppery to spicy to grassy, while riesling tends toward minerality and floral aromas. But other regions and varietals are fast becoming the rising stars of Austrian wine exports. Blind tasting a sauvignon blanc from Südsteiermark, with its balanced acidity, minerality, and mid-palate intensity, might lead you to think you’re sipping on a Sancerre. And the complexity and richness of a pinot blanc from wineries in this region like Sattlerhof, Tement, Lackner Tinnacher, and Erwin Sabathi might well leave you awestruck. Discovery in the red category is equally exciting. Zweigelt, a cross between blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, is similar to merlot in its ease of planting. Intended to be drunk young, examples of round and juicy yet age-worthy zweigelt are found in Carnuntum, in the hands of Weingut Payr, for example. Not enough of the best Austrian wines are yet available in Asian markets, but, thankfully, things are changing. A Leithaberg DAC grüner veltliner, for example, would be a perfect match with Japanese shabu-shabu, or a blaufränkisch would pair beautifully with grilled steak. And with Peking duck, why not switch the typical pinot noir for a more intriguing glass of Austrian St. Laurent?

别提此一产区多个名家,如 Sattlerhof、

Tement、Lackner Tinnacher 及 Erwin Sabathi 用白皮诺酿制的白酒,味道层次 之繁复、丰富,令人惊叹。 红酒领域同样令人兴奋,蓝弗朗克 及圣罗兰混出来的新种茨威格和梅洛红

(merlot) 一样都有容易栽种的优点。茨 威格酿的酒熟成期短,可享用时间较早, 但在卡农顿仍找得到像 Weingut Payr 这 样的专业酿酒人,所产佳酿味道醇厚且 滋味十足,值得陈年收藏。 亚洲市场上真正好的奥地利葡萄酒 不甚齐全,不过此一趋势正在转变中。 举例来说,雷德堡的绿维特利纳白酒可 作为日式涮涮锅的绝佳拍档,又或以蓝 弗朗克红酒搭配炙烤牛排,简直相得益 彰。说到北京烤鸭,以奥地利圣罗兰取 代常见的黑皮诺红酒,保证有意想不到 的好滋味。 from the vine

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Damien Grelat, Export Director Asia-Pacific for Château Palmer and Philippe Bera, CEO of Omtis Fine Wines


WINE MASTER

Château Palmer’s venerable property, with its exceptional winemaking terroir, dates back more than four hundred years. Located in the famed Margaux AOC in Bordeaux, Palmer is one of the fourteen Troisièmes Crus of the original classification of 1855. By such historic measures, the birth in 1998 of Alter Ego, Palmer’s “earlier-drinking” wine, is a recent development. In an interview held at SW

岁月沉香

unaltered traditions

Steakouse at Wynn Palace Cotai, Damien Grelat, Export Director Asia-Pacific for Château Palmer, and Philippe Bera, CEO of Hong Kong–based luxury goods distributor Omtis Fine Wines, talk about the winery’s evolution. 宝马庄园 (Château Palmer) 宏伟的城堡,以及当地令人印象 深刻的酿酒风土已有超过 400 年历史。酒庄座落于法国波尔 多生产最高级别葡萄酒 AOC ( 法定产区葡萄酒 ) 的重镇玛歌 村,为 1855 年评选出的 14 家三级酒庄之一。

Mr. Grelat, could you fill me in on the background of Alter Ego? DG : Château Palmer has a storied his-

如跟这么久远的创始年代相比,酒庄于 1998 年才推出市面

的 Alter Ego 二军酒算是相当近期的创作。这款酒在装瓶后 tory, so it’s about legacy. Alter Ego was 的前几年便已宜于享用。宝马庄园亚太区出口总监 Damien created twenty years ago as another, Grelat 及总部位于香港的奢侈品经销商安天时酒库 (Omtis different expression of Palmer, with the Fine Wines) 行政总裁 Philippe Bera 最近在永利皇宫路氹 same DNA of the terroir. The sandy par「永利扒房」接受 TK 专访,畅谈宝马庄园历年来的转变。 cels where it thrives allow for aromatic maturity – there’s brightness of fruit before anything else. It’s important to stress that second wines are not a vineDamien,能否介绍一下 Alter Ego 二军酒? yard’s “entry level.” In the winemaking process, there’s no huge DG: 宝马庄园有很多故事,但都是以延续酒庄传 difference in the patience and attention that go into them, just 统为主轴。这款酒推出已有 20 年,以当地风土条 some slightly different techniques and proportions of grapes.

Speaking of the Palmer DNA, would you say that your move toward biodynamics has now become a part of it?

件为本,再用不同方式重新演绎宝马庄园葡萄酒 的独特风格。于特定砂质地段生长的葡萄,酿制 后风味成熟饱满,果味光鲜度高为一大特色。我

DG : We are 100 percent biodynamic. In getting certified, the

想特别强调,所谓二军酒并非代表仅是酒庄的「入

process started back in 2009. It’s been long, partly because we wanted to measure the risk it could represent. We started with a few hectares, then increased to the point where the 2015 vintage was fully biodynamic. It represents a natural balance and harmony with all the people in the estate, because we cherish our farming model. It shouldn’t be an unreachable dream to be self-sufficient.

门款」 。就酿制过程来说,投注的心力与其他酒款 无二,只是使用的技巧及葡萄混和的比例有些微 差别而已。

说到宝马庄园的特色,可以说你们近年采行的 生物动力农法也成为酒庄整体风格一部分了

DAVID HARTUNG

吗?

How do you see your position within the Bordeaux universe?

相关认证。我们早在 2009 年就开始实行了,早早

DG: Palmer used to be a slightly mysterious vineyard because

推行的部分原因是想评估风险。从几公顷的限定

it didn’t have much visibility in the French market, but it was a mystery that has revealed itself! We and Omtis are both here for the long term, it’s a continuing commitment to produce these wines, and we need distributors with these same values.

DG: 我们实行的是百分之百生物动力农法,更获得

范围做起,接着实行的范围逐渐扩张,直到 2015 年全面采行生物动力农法。我们珍惜每天所施行 的农法,这代表着酒庄所有人和土地之间的自然 平衡及和谐,自给自足不再是遥不可及的梦想。 from the vine

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TK |

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Mr. Bera, tell me about Omtis Fine Wines’ history with the Château.

你怎么看自家酒庄在波尔多酿酒区的

PB: It dates back to the 1980s, but our family’s business started in 1919.

定位?

边很久了, 我们一直致力于制作这些好酒, 也需要跟价值观相同的经销商一起合作。

Philippe,能否谈谈安天时酒库和宝马

PB: I was born in Hong Kong. It’s no secret that the city is the center of

庄园的渊源?

And now you’re partnering with Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants?

|

意揭开神秘的面纱!酒庄和安天时都在这

How important is Hong Kong for Château Palmer? wine trading and merchandising in Asia, and Palmer represents a large part of what we distribute locally. We work very closely with the 1855 classified wines and have built our relationships well over time. We are not a volume trading company, but instead we distribute properly and know who the end consumer is. We like to build values and relationships and good distribution, and we have a network of private clients around Asia.

130

DG: 宝马庄园以前在法国市场曝光度不

高,一直带点神秘色彩,但其实我们很愿

PB :我们从 80 年代开始和酒庄合作,家

族事业的话则可回溯至 1919 年。我加入 集团后办的第一场顶级葡萄酒活动就是和 宝马庄园一起,合作相当愉快,关系也不 断深化。安天时的销售网络曝光度极高, 同时也深谙与家族企业合作之道,即以相 同的价值观为出发点。我们在波尔多大部 分的客户都是家族酒庄。

PB: We don’t want to spend time in restaurants with an awkward envi-

对于宝马庄园,香港市场的重要性为

ronment because of ‘fine dining’ criteria. Asia’s 50 Best gives something new and allows us to come up with a young, talented generation of chefs. Across the board, there’s a consciousness of what’s sustainable and respects seasonality, with no preconceived ideas about gastronomy.

何?

TK | from the vine

PB :我在香港出生,众所周知,香港正

是亚洲葡萄酒交易及销售中心。安天时在 地经销的葡萄酒,很大一部分来自宝马庄

SANDRINE GIAOUI BOURDON, COURTESY OF CHATEAU PALMER

After I joined, one of the first fine wine events we did was with Château Palmer. That relationship has flourished and we have very good visibility, since we work very well with family businesses – it’s a matching of values. Most of our relationships in Bordeaux tend to be with familyowned châteaux.


WINE MASTER

Mr. Grelat, what suggestions do you have for pairing Alter Ego with food? DG: Honestly, it’s a democratic wine, there’s no ideal pairing, partly because the world is so connected and chefs come from everywhere, so there’s always a dynamic new generation of chefs creating all over the world.

What would you say connoisseurs should expect from Alter Ego? DG: It’s actually very accessible, generous, with a less intellectual side

园。我们和这座创始于 1855 年的经典酒

to its personality, something that pleases wine lovers right away – equal parts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, topped off with a touch of petit verdot. It’s intended to be drunk between five and ten years old. The 2017 vintage is precise without excess – velvety tannins and aromatic depth show the aging potential.

庄往来相当密切,长年来建立了深厚的合

And do you still commission jazz pieces to reflect each year’s vintage? DG: In the spectrum of Palmer, it’s a way to interpret a facet of our personality, of our vineyard. We invite a jazz band to come over – and that gives us a very good excuse to taste! They do an improvisation, literally an interpretation of the vintage. For example, this year we have an Icelandic drummer, Einar Scheving, and last year was the eighty-year-old American saxophonist Archie Shepp.

作关系。安天时不是以量取胜的经销公 司,我们相信卖得多不如卖得巧,知晓 葡萄酒的目标终端消费者群体。我们想 要建立价值、关系及好的经销管道,而 我们的私人客户网络则遍及全亚洲。

安天时现在还和「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」 一起合作是吗? PB :我们不想把时间浪费在打着「精致

餐饮」招牌,环境却强差人意的餐厅上。 「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」可以为我们带来新 东西,接触新一代年轻又有才华的厨师。 在评选桌上,大家对于注重永续、尊重 季节性都有共识,对何谓美食没有先入 为主的成见。

关 于 Alter Ego 的 餐 酒 搭 配,Damien 有没有什么建议? DG: 这款酒其实很百搭,并没有所谓的最

理想搭配。这可能是因为现在世界各地 联系非常密切,厨师来自世界各地,所 以全球的新生代厨师总是不停地创作新 菜式。

行 家 们 对 于 Alter Ego 可 以 有 什 么 期 待? DG: Alter Ego 相当平易近人、丰厚大方、

文人气息没那么重,让很多品酒爱好人士 一喝倾心。这款酒使用等比赤露珠及梅 洛,及少量小维多酿制而成,出桶后五 年至十年饮用最佳。2017 年的 Alter Ego 味道恰到好处,丝绒质地单宁及馥郁芳 香交织出陈年好滋味。

现在还是都邀请爵士乐队为当年主题 酒款演奏吗? DG: 对宝马庄园而言,这是个展示我们个

性和酒庄的好机会。爵士乐队受邀前来表 演时,通常也是我们品评美酒的绝佳时 机!乐手会针对主题酒款即兴演出,像今 年邀来的冰岛籍鼓手 Einar Scheving,或 去年的美国萨克斯风手、八十岁的 Archie

Shepp 都是好例子。 from the vine

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TK |

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS Konstantin Filippou

Alain Ducasse at Morpheus 杜卡斯餐厅 French

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Mon-Fri: 12:00-15:00; 18:30-00:00

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香港中环皇后大道中80号H Queen’s 25楼

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5

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Lunch: Sat-Sun: 11:30-14:30 Dinner: Tue-Sun: 18:00-22:30 A Casual elegant TK | from the vine

Dinner: 18:30-22:30

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Wed-Mon: 17:30-23:30

Mizumi at Wynn Macau 永利皇宫路氹「泓」日本料理 5

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Authentic Japanese G/F, Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra,

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ÉPURE

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5

5


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134

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TK | FROM THE VINE


1


ENDNOTES

Freemark Abbey winery presents two of its Napa Valley classics. The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon has deep ruby color, dried-floral and herb aromas, and complex dark-fruit flavors with notes of chocolate and tobacco. The 2014 Cabernet Bosché, with an aging potential of twenty-five years or more, is made from grapes grown on a twenty-two-acre vineyard on the famed Rutherford Bench. It offers a dark garnet color, a nose of dusty cassis and spices, and lush, velvety flavors of black fruit. Freemark Abbey 酒庄呈现出两款纳帕谷经典酒品。The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon 酒体色泽为深红宝石色, 以干燥花及药草和深色水果香为主调,伴随些微巧克力和烟草芬芳。另一款 The 2014 Cabernet Bosché 所用的葡萄来自闻名的 Rutherford Bench 占地二十二英亩的葡萄园,酒品可长久保存达二十五年以上。

DAVID HARTUNG

酒体为深石榴色,开瓶后扑鼻而来的是黑加仑子及香料气息,伴随青翠绵柔的深色水果香。

136

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TK | from the vine


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TK36 From the Vine  

The issue’s vineyard journey comes in three parts. First we go to Napa Valley and historic Freemark Abbey, founded by California’s first fem...

TK36 From the Vine  

The issue’s vineyard journey comes in three parts. First we go to Napa Valley and historic Freemark Abbey, founded by California’s first fem...