TK49 Stars Ascending

HKD60 | MOP60 | RMB60 | NTD240 | SGD10 | USD8 | £6

T A S T I N G 49

S T A R S

K I T C H E N A S C E N D I N G

INDIA Peeling the Onion 层出不穷 INTERNATIONAL Best Is Back 强势回归

ASIA The Masters’ Choice 大师之选

PLEASE ENJOY RESPONSIBLY

T A S T I N G 49

S T A R S

K I T C H E N A S C E N D I N G

Tasting Kitchen (TK), Asia’s epicurean lifestyle media group, leads the way to the world’s best in food and drink, art and design, and luxury travel adventures.

Tasting Kitchen (TK) 是亚太地区最具前瞻性的奢华生活方式品牌 , 荟萃全球高品质的生活文化，艺术设计，以及舌尖上的梦幻美味。

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com

SHANGHAI

HONG KONG

MACAU

Room H2, No 25 Lane 550 South Shaanxi Road, Shanghai

Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong

Rua do Volong n2-a Lazarus Verde Cave A, Macau

上海市徐汇区陕西南路 550 弄嘉善老市 25 号 H2 室

香港鸭脷洲利乐街 2 号 海湾工贸中心 6 楼 1 室

澳门和隆街 2 号 晶品艺楹地库 A 座

Mark Hammons

Joey Cheang

Lauriane Lemaire

FOUNDER & PUBLISHER 创办与出版人

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR 总编辑

REGIONAL BUSINESS DIRECTOR 区域业务总监

mark@tasting-kitchen.com

joey@tasting-kitchen.com

lauriane@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Violien Ng

Chris Dwyer

Tracy On

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 摄影总监

ART DIRECTOR 艺术总监

CHINESE EDITOR 中文编辑

Inara Sim

DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地总监

Mamie Chen Marilyn Burkley Robert Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Kerri Cheang

IMAGE EDITOR 图像编辑

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 编辑部助理

SENIOR EDITORS 资深编辑

Kate Nicholson

Johnathan Siu

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR ART AND DESIGN 特约编辑－艺术设计专栏

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR 特約編輯

Zita Wan Vivian Pun ASSISTANT EDITORS 副编辑

Joyce Kwok Lucy Morgan Lucy Jenkins Vicki Williams

Eddie Cheung EDITORIAL DIRECTOR, MAINLAND CHINA 中国内地编辑总监

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 特約作家

Jonna Chen ACCOUNTS MANAGER 客户经理

ON THE COVER Earlier this year, Chef Uwe Opocensky of Restaurant

香港港岛香格里拉大酒店珀翠餐厅的

Petrus created an original dish for the Krug x Onion

行政总厨Uwe Opocensky早前创作了

campaign. Now he features onions in a seasonal main

一道以洋葱为主题的菜式，参与库克

course: Coffee, Pumpkin, Foie Gras, Roscoff Onion. It

香槟酒庄的单一食材厨艺挑战。现在

includes pumpkin noodles marinated in coffee and

他继续以洋葱为灵感，将以咖啡和洋

onion, foie gras terrine coated with custard and

葱腌制的南瓜面、覆盖着卡仕达酱和

pumpkin spray, Roscoff onion confit with raisins, and

南瓜喷面的鹅肝酱、油渍罗斯科夫洋

a purée with caramelized pumpkin seeds. The dish is

葱及葡萄干，以及焦糖南瓜籽泥组合

finished with powdered coffee and pumpkin.

成一道季节性主菜。

Photography by Samantha Sin

GROUP ADVERTISING 广告查询 sales@tasting-kitchen.com SUBSCRIPTIONS 订阅查询 subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com TRANSLATION SERVICES 翻译服务 Babel Communications jonna@babel.com.tw PRINTING 印刷 Apex Print Limited 泰业印刷有限公司

4

|

TK |

stars ascending

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2021 All rights reserved

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen.

After almost two years of daily despair, the restaurant industry across Greater China is again on the rise, and the treasured rituals of dining out are returning.

The city’s best tables are booked months in advance and its best chefs are thriving once again, delighted to be back in their element, creating happiness and hospitality one plate and one guest at a time.

In this issue, TK 49, Stars Ascending, we take a soaring survey of the market, sharing stories from some of the most inspiring and innovative chefs in Asia and across the world.

After a year’s hiatus, the highly anticipated World’s 50 Best Restaurants awards returned, with global culinary stars gathering in Antwerp, Belgium, for the ceremony. After four previous wins, Noma came out on top once again in its new incarnation, while Hong Kong’s The Chairman received the Highest Climber Award and tenth position overall.

Krug is also back with its enchanting single-ingredient campaign. This time, a group of its Ambassade Chefs from around the world traveled to Jaipur, India, to focus on that familiar yet multifaceted vegetable, the onion. Among them was Hong Kong’s own Uwe Opocensky, who borrowed inspiration and onions from the campaign to create the dish for this issue’s cover. Spiegelau, with more than five hundred years of glassmaking history, has become an essential in top hotels and restaurants around the world. Their contribution to this issue profiles an eclectic amalgam of the region’s top chefs, spanning cuisines and countries, with faces new and old, all thrilled to be reunited and again sharing their gastronomic talents with the world.

Enjoy. 亲爱的 TK 读者，展卷愉快。

各界历经景气低迷将近两年后，大中华区的餐饮业已然复苏，外出用餐的生活模式重回日常。 多家精致餐厅的座位早在数月前已被预订一空，餐厅主厨兴致勃发，再度施展高超厨艺，专 心致志创作一道道佳肴，将欢乐温馨的用餐体验带给每位宾客。 本期主题为「Stars Ascending( 星芒闪耀 )」，我们重新探索餐饮市场，发掘来自亚洲与世界各 地的杰出主厨，分享他们星途背后的每一个鼓舞人心的故事。 受疫情影响暂停一年后，万众瞩目的「世界 50 大最佳餐厅」颁奖典礼重回世界舞台，全球顶 尖明星大厨齐聚比利时安特卫普，一同欢庆年度盛事。丹麦的 Noma 曾四度荣获最高荣耀，今年以 崭新气象再度荣获第一名。来自香港的大班楼更获得排名跃升奖，名次一举攀升至第十名。 库克香槟酒庄也以万众期待的单一食材厨艺挑战回归厨坛。这一次，一群来自世界各地的库 克大使厨师前往印度斋浦尔，共同探索主题食材洋葱 — 我们熟悉不过却又千变万化的味道。团队成 员之一为香港珀翠餐厅的行政总厨 Uwe Opocensky，他以库克的精神作为灵感，用洋葱创作新料理， 并登上了本期杂志的封面。 拥有超过 500 年悠久历史的水晶玻璃品牌酒具制造商 Spiegelau，如今已是顶级酒店和高级餐 厅中不可或缺的搭配精品。Spiegelau 与全球厨艺大师共同合作，不分国界，一起创造前所未有的美 食体验，向世界再次展现他们独一无二的厨艺和才华。 请享受悦读食光。

MARK HAMMONS

6

|

TK |

stars ascending

CONTENTS

10 Dining on Art • 14 Ethos of the East • 24 Simply Great 26 The Pleasures of Lingnan • 34 Referring to Fall • 38 Innovated Heritage 44 Friendly French • 46 Setting Course • 54 Full Steam Ahead • 60 Best Is Back

10

14 14

16 108 102 24

34

26

8

|

TK |

stars ascending

44

24

42

46 90

60 30

118 38

54 58

CONTENTS

74 Peeling the Onion • 94 The Masters’ Choice • 108 Accent on Creativity 112 Liquid Gold • 120 High Spirits • 124 Informed and Inspired • 128 Sensing Australia 134 Possibilities Unlimited • 136 Fresh from Austria • 138 Cookware Revolution

12

94 14

108 16 102

120

112 20

124

24

30 74

134 118 38

42

46 128

136

138 58 stars ascending

|

TK |

9

ART & DESIGN

绣出琉璃

dining on art

ALEX HU

Restaurant Obscura joins forces with embroidery brand TAISILK to create artworks to eat from.

G U E S T S AT O B S C U R A enjoy the unique and delightful experience of dining on plates made from delicately embroidered silk fabric encased in glass. The Shanghai fine-dining restaurant, which combines elements of Michelin-level Western cuisine and Chinese traditional cooking traditions, is led by Chef DeAille Tam and her husband, Chef Simon Wong. They collaborated with TAISILK, an arts-and-crafts brand founded in Taizhou by embroidery master Lin Xia, to create the one-of-a-kind tableware.

Lin has taken an old technique brought to China

by French missionaries at the turn of the twentieth century and revolutionized it for the modern era.

Instead of recreating the traditional floral patterns, she focuses on what she calls the “network world,” a theme inspired by the interconnectedness of molecules, silkworm threads, and spider webs.

Creating Obscura’s show plates was an exercise in experimentation with a myriad of challenges.

“Material selection, size, and weight were just some of the factors that had to be considered, while also rendering it a pragmatic item for day-to-day use in a fine-dining environment,” says Tam. “We needed to overcome the problems in making the plates waterproof, stain-resistant, nonslip, and not too thick.” Merely prototyping the pieces, meticulous stars ascending

|

TK |

11

ART & DESIGN

Embroidered patterns evoke molecules and spider webs. 刺绣图案让人联想到分子和蜘蛛网。

provoke guests to consider the expertise and rich history behind them. They represent a connection with the vanishing handicrafts of old and a determination to protect local cultural heritage. Tam notes that beyond their intricate design and compelling visual beauty, there is also “an inimitable soul to be found within the work.”

12

|

TK |

stars ascending

Obscura 的餐盘烙满被包裹在玻璃之中的精致丝绸刺绣花纹。在这里， 美食与食器交织为宾客带来一场独特宜人的美食体验。上海精致餐厅

Obscura 由夫妻档主厨王思鸣及谭绮文掌舵，结合西式米其林星级美食和 传统中式料理手法，创作出全新的料理风格。台州工艺美术品牌「台绣 TAISILK」由中国刺绣大师林霞女士创办。两位主厨联手该刺绣品牌，合作 推出独一无二的餐盘器皿。

20 世纪初，法国传教士将一种古老的技术带入中国。因应当今时代， 林霞女士对这种技术进行革新。有别于传统的雕花图案，林霞女士的刺绣 作品以「网络」为核心概念，呈现如分子、蚕丝、蛛结网一般「相互连结」 的特性。 对 Obscura 餐厅来说，餐盘设计是一次前所未有的实验，过程中有许 多挑战必须克服。谭绮文说 ： 「设计的过程不只要考量选材、大小、重量， 更要把日常生活用品融入精致饮食之中。我们要让餐盘防水、防渍、防滑， 也不能太厚重，这已经很具挑战性。 」光是把绣品镶嵌到无影玻璃中，制 作产品的雏型，已耗时超过四个月。每个盘子的制作要花大约五天，所需 人力为三到五人，其中包括设计师、刺绣师和贴片师傅等。 。 色彩设计上，许多作品都使用了两位主厨特制的「Obscura 暗紫色」

谭绮文说 ： 「紫色由蓝色与红色调和而成 — －蓝色象征男性，红色象征女

性。这种特殊的暗紫色象征我们同心协力想要创新，想创造出不一样的东 西。 」Obscura 暗紫色也象征着两人各自的成长背景，东西文化的交融造就 了 Obscura 餐饮风格的文化多样性。

Obscura 与「台绣 TAISILK」合作设计的餐盘不只提升了客人的用餐品 质，更让客人认识餐具背后的工艺与历史。这些作品让人们重新接触逐渐 失传的传统工艺，展现了保存地方文化的决心。谭绮文更强调，在细腻的 设计与绚丽夺目的视觉美感背后，最难能可贵的是隐含在作品里「无法复 制的匠人精神。 」

COURTESY OF TAISILK (3)

assemblies of silk-thread embroidery surrounded by protective antireflective glass, took more than four months, and each plate produced required up to five days and the skills of three to five craftspeople, including designers, embroiderers, and mounters.

Many of the pieces feature “Obscura aubergine,” a color significant to Wong and Tam. “Purple is mixed from blue and red – blue being the male and red the female,” Tam explains. “It represents our combined effort to create something new, something different.” It also points to the combined Western and Chinese upbringings of the couple, a mix of cultural heritages that comes through in Obscura’s culinary style.

Designed to heighten the dining experience at Obscura, the TAISILK show plates

“It represents our combined effort to create something new, something different.

暗紫色象征我们同心协力想要创新， 想创造出不一样的东西。” DeAille Tam

谭绮文

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

13

PRESENTED BY RUYI

东方哲思 ETHOS

HanTang collection by RUYI 「如意」的「汉唐」系列餐瓷

14

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

OF

THE EAST Through modern design, luxury lifestyle brand RUYI introduces the traditional perspectives of Asia.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

15

PRESENTED BY RUYI

The Infini collection takes direct inspiration from the insights of Laozi that change is constant in life.

「无极」系列的设计灵感来自老子的思想， 即世间一切本就变动不居。

16

|

TK |

“EVERY THING STARTS WITH THESE,” says Desmond Chang of the pair of spectacular porcelain foo lions poised on the dining table before him. They have become both talisman and icon for his new lifestyle brand inspired by Eastern philosophy and grounded in modern sensibility. “Foo lions elaborate and emphasize the oriental belief in yin and yang, by which everything has two opposite sides, the feminine and masculine energies that come together in harmony.”

The striking pieces are derived from the ancient stone guardian lions that for centuries have protectively flanked the entrances to Imperial palaces, temples, and aristocratic homes throughout Asia. Traditionally, they were carved as highly stylized near mirror images, but RUYI’s contemporary interpretation emphasizes dualism by accentuating their differences.

The male sits sternly upright in a fierce show of strength, while the female’s natural pose, with raised tail elegantly forming an S-curve, projects a friendlier, more relaxed demeanor. Together, they serve as decorative place-setting elements that playfully welcome guests and cast a positive energy over the dining experience.

With RUYI, Chang has established a brand that is entirely driven by

张聪指着前方餐桌上的一对瓷制福狮说 ： 「一

Asian philosophy, heritage, and culture. Two tableware collections have already been released, and he is set to launch a third in the fall, with plans well underway for an additional four. Chang emphasizes that porcelain is only the first of many offerings – to eventually include glassware, home furnishings, and textiles – through which RUYI intends to communicate its brand ideology and carry out its mission of spreading awareness and appreciation of an alternative approach to life informed by Eastern points of view.

As with the lions, the RUYI collections embody various Eastern philosophies or values, conveying messages that are purposely subtle. Taking a cue from an ancient Chinese philosopher and his eponymous work, the Laozi , Chang explains that “indirect approaches can be more powerful than direct ones.” His preferred strategy with RUYI is to simply put

餐具，第三组系列产品预计于今年秋天问世，

stars ascending

切都是由此而起。 」他的全新生活品牌「如意」 的灵感源自于东方哲思，扎根于现代感知，而 这对福狮俨然成为了品牌的象征与平安符。张 聪解释 ： 「福狮是一公一母两头狮子，阳刚与 阴柔的能量和谐交融，强调万物皆为一体两面， 彰显了东方的阴阳哲思。 」 这对瞩目的作品原型是古代的石狮。石 狮在亚洲文化中意义深远。数百年来，各个宫 殿、寺庙、大户人家的门口两侧皆有石狮镇守。 传统上，成对石狮的外观形似镜象，但「如意」 以现代角度重新诠释，强调二元论，突显了两 头狮子的不同之处，即雄狮威武地正襟端坐， 母狮则较为悠闲自在，姿态自然，尾巴蜷成优 雅的 S 形。双狮共同迎接宾客，除了作为场地 的别致装饰，更为用餐体验带来正向能量。 张聪创立的新品牌「如意」承载了亚洲 哲学、人文历史与文化，品牌已推出两组系列 第四组亦整装待发。张聪强调，餐瓷仅是个开 端，未来的产品线还会囊括玻璃器皿、家饰用 品与纺织布料。 「如意」期望，透过各类作品， 带来以东方视角欣赏世界与看待生活的另类方 式，进而阐述其品牌理念。 「如意」系列作品一如福狮，也体现了东 方哲学与价值观，在潜移默化中传递哲思。张 聪引述中国古代哲学家老子的思想，并说道 ： 「间接的做法有时比直接来得更有效（无为） 。 」 对于「如意」的推广，他倾向单纯地推出亮丽 的设计外观，让群众自行探索作品背后的文化 根源与意义。

Infini collection by RUYI 「如意」的「无极」系列餐瓷

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

17

PRESENTED BY RUYI

“The main message of the Aroma collection isn’t actually about the teaware itself but rather about the art of tea.

「香氲」系列传达的主要理念 并不在于茶具本身，重点是茶这门艺术。”

Aroma collection by RUYI 「如意」的「香 氲」系列茶具

forward beautiful designs and then allow the audience to gradually discover the cultural origins and fundamental meanings behind the pieces.

The first tableware collection, Infini, for example, takes direct inspiration from the insights of Laozi. The organic curves and asymmetrical, free-form shapes that characterize Infini pieces are physical representations of the idea that change is constant in life and that to embrace it, one must remain spontaneous and always be willing to flow effortlessly with the moment.

While there may be other tableware collections that appear handcrafted, with shapes neither perfectly round nor square, Chang believes that what makes Infini so special is the originality of the idea behind its asymmetric shapes: “For me, knowing the context of Laozi and Taoist ideals adds a lot of sexiness to the collection.”

Some of RUYI’s colors and patterns also convey their own nuanced meanings, underlying messages from Eastern philosophies. For example, the cracked jade-colored glaze detailing on free-form Infini plates reveals Laozi’s extolling of the virtues of fragility and weakness, and the kintsugi pattern of beautiful gold repair work is influenced by the Japanese worldview of wabi-sabi that embraces the flawed and imperfect. “Many of our designs are inspired by the Laozi principle that the ultimate state of strength is actually vulnerability,” says Chang. “When things are fragile, people pamper and take better care of them. It seems very counterintuitive, but the state of vulnerability is more sustainable than the state of strength.”

He gestures toward an Aroma collection teacup resting elegantly atop its raised stand, whose surface is flat, except for a slight indentation to receive the cup. The designs, based on Tang and Song dynasty teaware, are beautiful yet fragile. With a slight brush of the hand, Chang knocks the cup from its pedestal. “Everything in life is delicate and can disappear in a second if you don’t treat it right,” he says. “When you take the moment to appreciate it, you are in full awareness of that treasure. That is a very Eastern thought, and I want to pass on all these different perspectives through the brand and through the products.”

The main message of the Aroma collection isn’t actually about the

第一款问世的餐具系列「无极」 的设计灵感便是来自老子的思想，即 世间一切本就变动不居，人应接受万 物本性，顺应自然，随波而流。 「无极」 系列大量运用了有机曲线及形态自由 的非对称轮廓，将老子的理念具象化。 市面上纵然也有其他手工打造、 无固定形状的餐具系列，然而张聪认 为「无极」的突出之处在于其非对称 轮廓背后的原创理念 ： 「我认为其中蕴 含的老子和道家思想，让这个系列更 为迷人。 」 同时， 「如意」也透过色彩及图 纹传递蕴藏于东方哲学中的理念，如 「无极」形态自由的盘上即绘有玉色的 纤细裂纹釉，借以表现老子「柔弱为 贵」的思想。金继的美丽裂痕图纹则 源于「侘寂」 ，这是一种拥抱世间万物 缺陷的日式美学。张聪说 ： 「我们很多 作品的设计灵感都来自于老子『柔弱 胜刚强』的信条。通常，人们对于柔 弱的事物会更加呵护。虽然听上去有 点与固有印象相左，但柔弱在本质上 能比刚强更为恒存。 」 张 聪 指 向 其 中 一 个「 香 氲 」 系 列茶杯，杯子下的底托相当平坦，仅 有呈放茶杯处微微凹陷。该系列的设 计概念源于唐宋时期的茶具，华美而 娇弱。他用手轻轻一拂，便将茶杯从 在底托上拿了起来，并说道 ： 「人生 中的所有事物都很脆弱，若不好好对 待，就可能在转瞬间化为虚无。当您 驻足珍视某件事物，就能全然感受它 的美好和珍贵。这种思考方式很东方。 stars ascending

|

TK |

19

Home Banquet collection by RUYI 「如意」的「家宴」系列餐瓷

20

|

TK |

stars ascending

PRESENTED BY RUYI

teaware itself but rather about the art of tea. If coffee is bold and vibrant like an Impressionist painting, tea is subtle and complex like a Chinese watercolor, in which blank spaces hold significant meaning. “It’s much easier for people to understand and appreciate powerful flavors than delicate ones or to find meaning in fullness rather than emptiness,” he says. “I think the art of tea is a gift from the Orient, and if people can understand it, they can embrace a different fulfillment of sensation.”

In October, RUYI will officially launch Home Banquet, a full dinnerware collection inspired by an extraordinary meal Chang enjoyed at the home of Theresa Mak, founder of Hong Kong gourmet food brand Dashijie. Says Chang, “I told her, ‘You have revived Chinese home banquets in front of my very eyes! Let’s do something together to inspire everyone to cook at home in this same spirit of no expense spared, no time or effort spared, to produce the best Chinese food.’”

Many of the pieces in the Home Banquet catalog reflect original forms from Mak’s personal collection used in serving her signature dishes. The fine porcelain is adorned with spring blossoms and dancing butterflies painted in the elegant style of Qing dynasty fencai enamel, evoking a time when Chinese porcelain pieces were so esteemed by European aristocracy that Renaissance paintings depicted them as rare gifts fit for gods and goddesses.

“Invitation-only home banquets are the ultimate form of Chinese haute cuisine,” says Chang, “and they are the ultimate show of a family’s hospitality to their guests. If everyone showed the appreciation and took the time to revive their own home banqueting, it would be a flourishing era for the East.”

Chang turns his attention to the HanTang collection, a set of artistically powerful tableware pieces that has been three years in the making.

The concept of yin and yang is woven throughout the collection, with shapes, silhouettes, and design elements inspired by “masculine” Han dynasty bronze artifacts harmoniously blended with those inspired by “feminine” Tang dynasty lacquerware.

He begins mixing and matching plates of varying shapes, sizes, colors, and patterns. On the bottom is a rectangular plate whose form echoes the gently curved roofs of Tang dynasty temples. Next is a flat-rim plate in gold dust whose color and sleek lines create a crisp

我想透过这个品牌和作品来传递这些不同的视 角。 」 「香氲」系列传达的主要理念并不在于茶 具本身，重点是茶这门艺术。若把咖啡形容为 风格大胆鲜艳的印象派画作，茶就是精巧繁复 的中式水墨画，每处留白都蕴藏深意。张聪说： 「欣赏强烈的风味比细致的韵味容易许多，在 完整中找到意义也比在虚无中体会深意来得容 易。我认为，茶的艺术是东方送给世界的礼物， 如果人们能了解这门艺术，就能拥抱另一种感 知。 」 「如意」在十月正式推出整套「家宴」餐具， 该系列的灵感源于张聪在香港美食品牌「大师 姐」创办人麦丽敏家中享用的佳肴。张聪回想 起当时跟她说的一段话 ： 「您让我亲眼见证了中 式家宴的复兴！我们一起鼓励大家在家中拿出 这种精神烹饪，不遗余力地做出最好的中式料 理。 」 「家宴」系列中有许多作品以麦丽敏在家 中呈放招牌菜的器皿作为发想，精致的餐瓷上 绘有春花与翩翩飞舞的蝴蝶，优雅的清朝粉彩 瓷风格使人想起在古代，欧洲贵族视中国瓷器 为上品，更在文艺复兴时期的画作上将中式瓷 器描绘成赠与神祇的稀世珍礼。 张聪说道 ： 「邀请宾客共进的家宴是精致 中式料理的极致呈现方式，也最能体现一个家 庭的待客之道。如果大家都能以这种方式欣赏 中菜，也愿意花时间复苏家宴，东方世界一定 能迎来一个繁茂的时代。 」 张聪随后将目光投向研发了三年的「汉唐」 系列，这系列器皿兼具刚强与雅致的风格，其 中的形状、轮廓及设计元素皆融入了阴阳概念， 和谐地结合了汉朝铜器的阳刚风格与唐朝漆器 的柔美格调。 他开始把不同形状、尺寸、颜色和图纹 的盘子搭在一起，底部是形状近似唐朝寺庙屋 stars ascending

|

TK |

21

PRESENTED BY RUYI

Pair of spectacular porcelain foo lions 一对瓷制福狮

Porcelain women 瓷制乐师人偶

silhouette reminiscent of metalwork. Finally, he places a deep, delicate, lacquer-like plate atop the metal base. “These pieces look extremely ancient and extremely new at the same time,” says Chang. “Everything looks familiar, but I don’t think they have ever been brought together like this.”

Items from different RUYI collections are designed to be interchangeable and to complement one another, “like sibling pieces,” he says, replacing the deep HanTang plate with a beautifully ridged shallow bowl from the Xuande collection.

“The RUYI ideology is about embracing the Eastern philosophy of harmony and collectivism and embracing different cultures. That’s why we chose Han and Tang as the main influences in this collection.” During the

22

|

TK |

stars ascending

顶的微弧长方盘，接着是以金粉妆点的高边 平盘，其色彩和流线形塑出轮廓清晰的复古 金属盘，最后张聪在金属盘上放了雅致的漆 器 深 盘。 他 形 容 ： 「这些作品看起来又古老 又新颖，每件器皿都感觉熟悉，但从未像这 样搭在一起。 」 「如意」不同系列的作品皆可合并或交换 使用， 愈加衬托彼此特色。 「它们就像姊妹作。 」 张聪一边说，一边拿出美丽的「宣德」螺纹 浅碗替换「汉唐」深盘。 「 『 如 意 』 的 理 念 是 拥 抱 东 方 圆 融、 重 视集体主义的哲学，也拥抱不同文化，因此

Items from different RUYI collections are designed to be interchangeable 「如意」不同系列的作品 皆可合并或交换使用

early Western Han dynasty, the court was openly receptive to a spectrum of governing philosophies, including Legalism, Daoism, and Confucianism.

And it was the Han dynasty’s desire to connect with distant lands that guided the construction of the Silk Road. Hundreds of years later, the Tang dynasty became a powerful role model in their enthusiastic embrace of various cultures, races, and religions in their capital at Chang’an (now Xian).

Might the subtle-yet-intentional compatibility of the RUYI collections inspire some to reflect on how they might likewise embrace the different voices, different perspectives, and different schools of thought in their own lives?

“I think that is beautiful,” says Chang. “That kind of harmony is what we need in the world, isn’t it?”

我们选了汉朝和唐朝作为这个系列的核心概 念。 」西汉初期，执政者已博采法家、道家及 儒家等不同流派的治国理念。汉朝的人们怀 着与远方进行交流的希冀，走出了丝绸之路。 数百年后，唐朝的国都长安（现称西安）广 纳各种文化、种族与宗教，极具开放性，是 中国史上一个极盛时期。 说不定如意品牌各系列间微妙、具包容 性的理念可以带来启发，引导大家反思如何 聆听不同的声音、接受观点的分岐、尊重思 想派别的差异。张聪说 ： 「我觉得那种景况很 美妙。这不就是我们一直探求的和谐吗？」 stars ascending

|

TK |

23

TASTING NEWS

大味至简

simply great A rising-star chef presents his bold and innovative tasting menu of Sichuan, Shandong, and Northern specialties.

24

|

TK |

“I WANT TO MAKE DELICIOUS FOOD that comes with warm memories,” says

「我希望做出装载温情记忆的美食，传递热

Zhang Zhi Cheng, executive chef of two-Michelin-star Golden Flower at Wynn Macau. “I want it to convey my love and persistence and achieve a state described by the saying ‘great tastes are simple.’”

Chef Zhang, although only twenty-eight, comes to Golden Flower with an impressive résumé. He is perhaps most celebrated for his success in Beijing, where he opened a private kitchen in an ancient hutong . His audacious cooking style soon made the venue one

爱与坚持，达到『大味至简』的境界。 」新

of the city’s hottest dining destinations.

The chef’s philosophy of simplicity means focusing on fundamental flavors and attaining the ultimate in refinement. This approach is ably demonstrated in each course of his new degustation menu, which unfolds, chapter by chapter, like a story. The

满京华的亮丽履历，让谁也对他心生期待。

stars ascending

任永利澳门京花轩行政总厨一职的张志成 说来笃定。 若以年资计算，今年才不过二十八岁 的张师傅无疑是「初生之犊」 ，但凭借早年 于北京四合院主理私房菜「宴锦堂」而名 大味至简，即重本味。张师傅的首个 赏味菜单，上面大书「序、迎、鲟、启、丰、 汤、承、鲜、蔬、转、合」 ，几乎把川、鲁

→ Sliced sea conch, Sichuan pepper oil 花椒油炝伴响螺片

← Executive Chef Henry Zhang Zhi Cheng 行政总厨张志成

→ Crisp codfish, balsamic vinegar

COURTESY OF WYNN MACAU (3)

意大利黑醋银鳕鱼

aromatic elegance of “Welcome Tea” is followed by the many sumptuous delights of “Caviar,” “Beginning,” “Abundance,” “Soup,” “Heritage,” “Umami,” “Seasonal Vegetables,” “Bloom,” and “Finale.”

“Beginning,” for example, offers a selection of Slow-Cooked Abalone, Crispy Scallion; Sliced Sea Conch, Sichuan Pepper Oil; Geoduck, Basil and Onion; Marinated Foie Gras; and Crisp Codfish, Balsamic Vinegar, with the primary and secondary flavors of each ingredient in each dish clearly distinguished and fully realized.

“Abundance” is replete with delicacies from sea and land: Fish Maw, Superior Chicken Broth; Stir-Fried Shark’s Fin; and Braised Sea Cucumber, Shandong Leek. The chef’s exceptional chicken broth, clear and intensely flavorful, reveals his mastery of the Shandong culinary tradition and has become one of his signatures.

With a deep understanding of the balance between “inheritance” and “transmission” in Chinese cuisine, Zhang also features, in “Heritage,” classic flavors executed in a contemporary mode, including Spring Roll Filled with Shark’s Fin, Aged Parmesan Cheese; Yellow Croaker, Garlic and Peppercorn; and the irresistible Diced Wagyu Beef, Dried Chili and Black Bean.

“Finale” brings a sweet conclusion to the narrative with imaginative choices like Rice Dumplings, Sesame, Bird’s Nest; Sweetened Walnut Cream; and Tofu Pudding, Rose, Honey.

菜的深厚底蕴浓缩其中，足够让人尝出张 师傅的烹调哲学。 起手式花椒油炝伴响螺片、脆葱低 温慢煮鲍鱼等，俱见处理食材的细腻度 惊人，主次分明。他特意以代表「鲟」 、 能「馥郁芬芳，唤醒味蕾」的意大利黑 醋 银 鳕 鱼， 作 段 落 休 止 符， 颇 有「 承 先 启后」之意思。紧接上场的招牌主菜黄 汤花胶，则展现他如何参悟鲁菜中「汤 为百鲜之源」的道理。 「承，就是青出于蓝别于蓝。 」张师傅 这样看待中菜「承」与「传」的角力关系。 新菜单不乏新派菜式，在扎实功夫上添点 新元素，如巴马臣芝士鱼翅春卷、花椒焗 台州黄鱼及豉椒雪花牛肉粒。 在最后的「合」中，张师傅精心准备 了白芝麻燕窝汤圆、生磨核桃酪和玫瑰蜜 糖豆花等清甜绵润的甜品， 完整了这场「大 味至简」的赏味之旅。 stars ascending

|

TK |

25

Chef de Cuisine Homan Tsui 总厨徐伟豪

26

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

PRESENTED BY MGM MACAU

岭南精髓

THE PLEASURES OF LINGNAN A seasoned chef brings his guest-first approach to a time-honored culinary tradition.

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

27

Crispy Skin Chicken with Flaxseeds caption 或

亚麻籽吊烧龙岗鸡

PRESENTED BY MGM MACAU

“The most memorable tastes are those that remind us of home.

DADO KIT (1 + PRECEDING PAGE )

能触动人的味道，往往离不开「家」。”

“THE ENJOYMENT OF DINERS is what drives me to excel and to expand my creativity,” says Homan Tsui, chef de cuisine of Imperial Court at MGM Macau. “It’s not for me to show off a personal culinary style per se but rather to pass on traditions with ‘newness’ that is relevant to both trends and authenticity.”

Indulging the preferences of his guests has long been second nature to Chef Homan. It’s a standard he’s held himself to throughout his career and one that remains a driving concept behind the service and menu at Imperial Court.

As a standout among Cantonese restaurants in Macau, Imperial Court offers an extraordinary twenty-page menu that is remarkable for featuring the essence of what is known as Lingnan cuisine, a culinary tradition that began its development in the ancient Tang dynasty.

Chef Homan’s relationship with Lingnan cuisine started early in his career, beginning with a summer job at a Hong Kong hotel when he was just seventeen. The brief stint sparked his interest in the F&B industry and launched him on his path to becoming a chef. Following an apprenticeship under a dim sum master, he went on to work in a variety of kitchens that featured Chaozhou, Sichuan, and Hunan cuisines.

His experience of more than twenty years in the field broadened his perspective regarding the definition of Cantonese food. “I think calling it Lingnan cuisine is actually more suitable,” he says. “Lingnan cuisine includes dishes not only from Shunde and Chaozhou – as well as those of the Hakka people – but also from the Lingnan area, which generally refers to the regions of Guangdong, Guangxi, Hainan, Hong Kong, and Macau. These all share a common culinary culture of eating seasonally, avoiding overly seasoned dishes, and placing a premium on original flavors, whether in dishes based on grain, meat, or seafood.”

Chef Homan makes inspired use of the full range of cooking methods found in the Lingnan tradition, including “quick” stir-frying that highlights the crispness of seasonal vegetables and “slow” stewing that transforms poultry into tender, delectable bites. Although he has brought these methods with him to Imperial Court, he cautions that, “we must not blindly follow tradition,

「食客的美食体验一直是我突破自己和 发挥创意的原动力。我并不是想突显个 人的烹饪风格，而是希望在传承传统的 同时，能加入既紧贴潮流，又不失正统 的新意。 」澳门美高梅中菜厅「金殿堂」 总厨徐伟豪这样说道。 满足每一位客人的喜好是徐师傅的 第二本能。这个原则不仅是贯穿他职业 生涯的坚持，亦是「金殿堂」服务及菜 单一直以来的内在驱动力。 作为澳门的殿堂级食府之一， 「金 殿堂」把自唐宋以来的岭南饮食精髓， 浓缩成二十页的餐厅菜单。 徐师傅十七岁时曾在一间香港酒楼 当暑期工，这既是他职业生涯的初期， 也是他与岭南菜系之间缘份的开端。当 时，他发现自己对餐饮的兴趣，从而踏 上厨师之路。他先是当点心学徒，及后 接触潮州菜及川湘菜等不同菜系。 二十余年的经验足让他以较广阔的 视 野 注 记 他 眼 中 的「 粤 菜 」 。他解释 ： 「我认为说成『岭南』较为合适，所包含 的不只有顺德『菜』 、客家『菜』和潮汕 『菜』 ，还有岭南一带，即泛指广东、广西、 『可耕、可猎、可渔』 海南、港澳等地区的、 的共同饮食文化面貌，也就是不时不吃， 不依赖酱料、调味，俱以原味为主轴。 」 他非常欣赏各种岭南可见的烹调方 「慢 式，如「快炒」能突显时蔬的爽脆感， 炖」能把禽肉煮至柔嫩，故希望统统延 揽至「金殿堂」檐下。他认真叮嘱说： 「但

stars ascending

|

TK |

29

“The enjoyment of diners is what drives me to excel and to expand my creativity.

食客的美食体验一直是我突破自己和发挥创意的原动力。”

30

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

PRESENTED BY MGM MACAU

Crispy Fried Boneless Duck Wrapped in Taro Dough and Served with Osmanthus Sauce

DADO KIT

桂花荔茸香酥鸭方

because times and tastes have changed, and chefs need to expand their horizons to keep pace.”

A dish like Simmered Cold Fresh Abalone in Sake is a good example of this guiding principle.

Chef Homan replaces the familiar Cantonese cooking methods of braising, stewing, and steaming with the slow-cooking technique now popular in the West. “Both approaches are about precisely controlling levels of doneness in the ingredients to arrive at a very tender texture,” he explains. And by using Japanese sake, mirin, and fish flakes to enhance the abalone’s distinctive umami flavor, he adds an intriguing new chapter to Guangdong’s seafood love story.

With popular dishes like Crispy Skin Chicken with Flaxseeds, Chef Homan takes Cantonese cuisine’s renowned expertise with chicken up a sizable notch. He starts with Longgang chicken, chosen for its rich fat content, and follows the traditional painstaking method of air-drying the bird for half a day. Then, before frying it in oil, the chef thoroughly sprinkles it with flaxseeds, now considered among the superfoods. “Compared to the traditional sesame seeds,” he explains, “flaxseeds further augment the crispness of the chicken, something that modern diners seem to especially enjoy.”

Chef Homan puts much thought into the selection of ingredients, often crossing borders and seasons in the process. One of Imperial Court’s most popular specialties, Crispy Fried Boneless Duck Wrapped in Taro Dough and Served with Osmanthus Sauce, is a traditional warming dish originating in Guangxi. Although autumn taro from Guangxi’s Laipo region is usually used, the chef has discovered that spring taro from Thailand is equally good.

The complicated cooking process involved in the dish has deterred many chefs from listing it on the menu, but Chef Homan insists on including it.

The braised duck is deboned, and for extra flavor, the bones are added back to the broth to continue cooking. To gauge the taro’s moisture content, he rubs it with his hands. “Sometimes ten kilos of taro root are steamed,” he says, “but only 10 percent is selected.

The key to making this special dish taste great is to knead the lard into the taro dough slowly.” After it is wrapped around the duck meat, the dough is fried to a golden color and a flaky texture. The result is a dish that’s crispy on the outside, tender on the inside.

我们决不能盲从传统。毕竟时代、 口味有变，厨师应该扩展视野， 与时并进。 」 前 菜 端 来 的「 清 酒 鲍 鱼 」 ， 仿 为 徐 师 傅 的 心 意 辩 白。 他 把 「焖、炖、扣」的粤菜常见作法， 巧 妙 换 成 西 方 流 行 的「 慢 煮 」 。 他分析 ： 「两者讲求的，都是对 食材生熟度的控制，做出软嫩的 效果。 」最后以日本清酒、味醂、 木鱼花等提鲜，为广东人无之不 欢的海鲜赋予时代感。 至于热点主菜「亚麻籽吊烧 龙岗鸡」 ，则把粤菜博大精深的 鸡馔发挥得淋漓尽致。徐师傅选 用油脂丰厚的龙岗鸡，不嫌繁琐， 依传统工法用自家挂炉吊烧、风 干、油炸，把鸡油迫出，好让鸡 肉不腻。在油炸前，他特意在鸡 皮加上近年被喻为「超级食物」 的亚麻籽。 「相较传统所用的芝 麻， 它更能强调现代人喜欢的『脆 感』 。 」 徐师傅也敢于从食材方面下 功夫，打破国界和季节桎梏。 「桂 花荔茸香酥鸭方」本属广西人的 传统暖身美食，一贯用当地入秋 后盛产的荔浦芋头，但他认为， 春夏之际的泰国芋头，质量亦不 相伯仲。这道菜的烹制工序繁复， 使不少餐厅却步，徐师傅仍坚持 先将焖鸭起肉，鸭骨则放入焖汁 继续熬煮，再用来为鸭肉增味。 他也为了感受芋头的湿度，以双 手搓揉芋茸。 「有时蒸了十斤的 芋头，只精选其中一斤入馔。而 好吃的关键，在于用双手慢慢揉 进猪油的过程。 」然后铺在焖鸭 肉上，炸至外酥里嫩，每一口都 能感受到徐师傅的巧妙匠心。 「杏香蛋白炒花竹虾」选用 肉质较鲜甜弹牙的花竹虾，来升 华家常菜「虾仁炒蛋」 。徐师傅 在蛋白中加入杏汁和北海道牛 奶，并依「黄埔炒蛋」的方法， 炒制时用腕力逐层炒起蛋液。成 品看似简单，吃来却鲜嫩无比。 stars ascending

|

TK |

31

PRESENTED BY MGM MACAU

Wok-Fried Kuruma Prawns with Egg White and Almond Cream

Wok-Fried French Blue Lobster with Minced Pork, Black Bean, and Garlic

杏香蛋白炒花竹虾

蒜香家常炒法国蓝龙虾

magnificent dragon carved in stone, with the artistry and tastefulness of every dish, with a master chef whose goal is to bring the ultimate in dining pleasure to his guests, it’s easy to imagine the emperors of China feeling right at home.

32

|

TK |

stars ascending

餐 厅 另 一 道 名 菜「 蒜 香 家 常 炒法国蓝龙虾」 ，亦有异曲同工之 趣，展现岭南菜「大巧不工」的烹 调智慧。徐师傅不讳言道出灵感 ： 「 能 触 动 人 的 味 道， 往 往 离 不 开 『家』 。 」 让 人 心 心 念 念 的， 还 有 这 里 的手工点心。点心如中国文字讲六 书一样，既讲会意，也讲象形。前 者表表者必数「蟹肉洋葱千丝酥」– 叠得如千丝草笼的酥皮，以广府宴 客名菜「酿蟹盖」升华内馅 ；后者 「脆皮松露黄金猪」 ，把原为橄榄状 的咸水角，做成充满童趣的小猪， 耳、鼻、尾巴俱在，让人爱不释口。 在「金殿堂」 ，看着眼前堂皇 而恢宏的石雕龙柱，思考着徐师傅 的志趣与心意，细品令人回味无穷 的粤馔经典，如此尊尚精细的品味 体验，想必与几百年前的帝王于殿 堂进膳的意境类同。

DADO KIT (3)

Wok-Fried Kuruma Prawns with Egg White and Almond Cream has its roots in the classic, always-popular dish of scrambled eggs with shrimp. In Chef Homan’s iteration, the eggs are stir-fried before adding the premium kuruma prawns. To bring the almond milk, fresh Hokkaido cow’s milk, and egg white together, he employs the rapid wrist motions made famous in the dish known as Whampoa stir-fried egg to carefully cook the egg white layer by layer.

Sharing similarly unconventional cooking methods is Imperial Court’s signature Wok-Fried French Blue Lobster with Minced Pork, Black Bean, and Garlic. But behind all his innovations in technique, Chef Homan stays true to the principle that, as he puts it, “the most memorable tastes are those that remind us of home.” And he highlights the culinary wisdom of Lingnan cuisine by always emphasizing “natural skill over refined artifice.”

Imperial Court’s unforgettable selection of handmade dim sum illustrates this forthright approach. Crispy Fried Crabmeat Pastries with Onion features a delicate pastry framework with a stuffing that harkens to one of Guangdong’s favorite dishes, stuffed crab shell. Crispy Fried Glutinous Rice Dumplings Stuffed with Pork and Black Truffle are delicious glutinous rice dumplings molded into the shape of tiny pigs.

At MGM Macau’s Imperial Court, with its opulent ambience dominated by a

C R I S P Y M A N G O P U F F PA S T R I E S 香芒蝴蝶酥

Inspired by MGM Macau’s Butterfly Pavilion, opened in the summer of 2012, Chef Homan created these Crispy Mango Puff Pastries, served in an enchanting seven-color Liuli (glazed crystal) basket. The flaky morsels, filled with fresh seasonal Carabao mango, make for a delightfully refreshing dessert.

2012 年夏天，澳门美高梅的「翩蝶馆」盛大开幕，徐师傅 以此为灵感，用当季的香甜吕宋芒果为馅，创作出栩栩如 生的酥点「香芒蝴蝶酥」 。掀起精致的七色琉璃笼盖，可 见三只彩蝶翩翩而出。

TASTING NOTES

King Crab 帝王蟹

34

|

TK |

stars ascending

滋味秋赏

referring to fall Chef Talib Hudda brings the robust flavors of autumn to Refer’s seasonal menu.

stars ascending

|

TK |

35

TASTING NOTES

“The warmth that bloomed in the summer will continue in the coming autumn. Explore what the season has to offer with Refer’s autumn menu.

盛夏绽放的温暖，仍在新秋 继续。和Refer秋季菜单一同 踏上食欲之秋的探索旅程。”

「生活为美食带来火花。 」北京 Refer 的主厨 “WE DRAW SPARKS OF INSPIRATION for our food from all of life,” says 「万物都是 Chef Talib Hudda of Refer, Beijing. “Anything can be a reference,” he notes, Talib Hudda 解释餐厅名的含义 ： 灵感来源。 」Refer 的环境隐密，设有五张餐 in explaining the meaning of his restaurant’s name. Refer, an intimate venue 桌和一个私人包厢。Talib 跨越地理和料理风 with eight tables and one private room, spans the boundaries of geographic 格的界限，选用本地专属农场的有机香草和 regions and cooking styles to present an extraordinary dining experience 蔬菜，随四季更迭创造出独一无二的用餐体 that changes seasonally and includes organic herbs and vegetables from 验。 partnering farms.

Talib 出生于加拿大，曾在加拿大、美 The Canadian-born chef, who has pursued a global career working and 国及欧洲的名厨门下工作与培训，他将在各 training under acclaimed masters at top restaurants in Canada, the US, and 「厨房里的 国历练的经验带到 Refer。他称 ： Europe, brings his years of international experience to Refer. “Our cuisine 料理方式与中国各地各季生产的美妙食材决 is defined by how we work in the kitchen and what amazing products are 定了我们的菜式。食材的多样性 offered throughout the seasons all over China,” he says. “Its 影响着我们的创作。 」 diversity of ingredients influences everything we do.”

BY 随着天气转凉和采收时节的 As the weather cools and the bounteous harvest arrives, LUCY MORGAN 到来，Talib 从秋季汲取灵感，特 he takes his cue from the season to craft an exquisitely autum选顶级应季食材，创作一系列秋 nal menu of imaginative dishes made with the very best 季美膳。他说 ： 「我们在 Refer 做的，就是以 ingredients. “What we try to do at Refer,” he says, “is to take people on a 美食带领客人展开旅程。 」 journey with our food.” 秋季是番茄盛产之时，主厨用清香的泰 When tomatoes reach their peak during fall, for example, the chef 国皱皮柠檬油来提升番茄的浓蕴，熬成鲜美 brightens their intense flavor with fragrant makrut lime oil to create a deli-

cious broth. He teams it with sweet Canadian spot prawns seasoned with pickled spruce and scatters the dish with nasturtium petals to produce a colorful snapshot of the season’s abundance.

Autumn calls for dishes with substance that embrace the falling temperatures but also with bright, fresh flavor profiles that recall the warmth of summer. The chef responds with the perfect bluefin tuna dish using otoro , the finest belly cut, rich with perfectly distributed fat. It is brushed with white miso, sesame paste, and homemade fermented chili crisp and

36

|

TK |

stars ascending

汤底后搭配经腌渍松针叶调味的加拿大牡丹 虾，最后以旱金莲点缀成品，呈现秋季丰收 的多彩映象。 秋季料理的食材要能抵御渐凉的气温， 又能让人想起温暖夏季的鲜明风味。对此，

Talib 选择以一道精致的蓝鳍金枪鱼料理来作 出响应。他细选油脂完美分布的大腹，刷上 白味噌、芝麻酱和自制发酵的辣椒酱后烤至

GREG MEI, COURTESY OF REFER (2 + PRECEDING PAGE )

Chef Talib Hudda

Canadian B.C. Spot Prawn 加拿大牡丹虾

then seared until semi-cooked. Both crispy and mashed yam are added for further texture. The cooking technique showcases the fish’s satisfyingly rich flesh, and the complex umami of the marinade creates layers of intriguing flavor that complement and balance the luscious tuna meat. A jolt of acidity from house-pickled bergamot ties the elements together. Such bold flavors call for restrained plating that is spare, elegant, and uncluttered, with blank spaces strategically arranged to set off the chef’s culinary artwork.

When sourcing ingredients, he takes three things into account: sustainability is foremost, followed by consistent quality and availability. All are in evidence when the chef celebrates crab season by selecting Russian king crab. Charcoal-grilled with homemade brown butter and pumpkin-seed miso, it is served with crispy-fried reindeer lichen and smoky Hunan bacon. “Our goal,” he says, “is to offer China something that references global palates but also highlights the qualities of each and every ingredient on the plate.”

半熟，再加入山药脆片和山药泥来增添口感。 这种料理手法展现了金枪鱼的肥美肉质，腌 料的繁复鲜味创造出多层次的诱人风味，与 鲜美的鱼肉相得益彰，而自制腌渍佛手柑的 酸味则将全部元素融为一体。如此大胆的风 味需要内敛、优雅、整洁的摆盘，巧妙地留 白作为衬托。

Talib 在选购食材时会思量三件事，可持 续性、质量一致性和供给的一贯性，这就是 为何他会选用俄罗斯帝王蟹来庆赞产季，并 以自制棕黄油和南瓜籽味噌来炭烤，配上酥 脆驯鹿苔藓和湖南烟薰腊肉。他说 ： 「我们的 目标就是将全球风味料理带到中国，与此同 时，让盘中每样食材的品质大放异彩。 」 stars ascending

|

TK |

37

38

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

CHEF CONVERSATION

从心巧塑新中菜

innovated heritage Shanghai’s Obscura offers new perspectives on the rich traditions of China’s culinary culture.

DEAILLE TAM AND SIMON WONG, executive chefs of Obscura, are yin and yang coming together with an understanding built on years of working as a team. As part of the new generation of chefs who have come out of Shanghai’s Michelin-star restaurants, they express their creative vision through independent yet complementary styles.

Using their unique insights into age-old Chinese traditions of food, spirits, tea, and incense, the duo have combined contemporary Western cooking concepts and Eastern culture, creating their Innovative Modern Chinese Cuisine.

The chefs launched Obscura in Shanghai at the end of 2020, after having traveled throughout the country on a lengthy research trip to experience China’s vast range of flavors and customs. Then, only three months after opening, Tam was honored by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants with the Asia’s Best Female Chef Award 2021.

When asked about her biggest challenge as a chef, Tam says, “For me, it’s dividing time between life and work. Facing the Chinese concept of the need to focus on the family, women will have a harder time with this. Of course, there is a lot more diverse and inclusive thinking these days.

“When I first started as a chef, it was simply because it was something that I wanted to do – it had nothing to do with trying to prove a point or to break through any glass ceiling. I grew up in a relatively

Obscura 双主厨谭绮文和王思鸣一阴一阳，刚 柔并济，是工作多年的默契拍档，更是从沪上 米其林一星餐厅走出的新生代主厨。两人既独 立，又互补，共同分享他们的创意和愿景。 食文化、酒文化、香文化和茶文化是中 国四大古文化，这两位主厨以独到的见解融合 西方前沿烹饪理念和东方文化，打造富含上述 。 四种文化的「新中菜」 ，以及食客的「心中菜」 在游历中国各地不同的风土人情后，他 们 于 2020 年 底 带 着 Obscura 重 新 回 归 上 海。 在餐厅开业三个月后，谭主厨便荣获 2021 年 度「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」亚洲最佳女厨师奖。 当被问及何为从事厨师这个行业最大的 挑战，她回答道 ： 「对我而言，最大的挑战就 是对生活和工作的时间分配。在中国人以家庭 为重的观念里，女孩子可能在这点上会比较难。 当然，现在大众对这件事的看法已经有所改变， 有了更多元化的包容思想。 」 「刚开始做厨师的时候，我就是单纯想要 去做，并非要去『打破』什么限制。我从小的 生活环境比较宽松，因此在择业上，我没有考 虑太多性别因素。对于未来有意投身厨师这一

COURTESY OF OBSCURA

← The dried form of a fresh, high-quality fish air bladder, fish maw is rich in gelatin. Although considered by many an inferior part of the fish, it is exalted as a delicacy in Chinese cuisine. Chefs at Obscura use fish maw in dishes like BBQ Lobster Bun and Sichuan Braised Eggplant that highlight the versatility and unique texture of this special ingredient. 花胶是以优质鱼肚干制而成的干海产，含有丰富的胶原蛋白。尽管有不少人不会食用鱼肚，但其制成的花胶却是中国的山珍 海味之一。Obscura的厨师会在蓝龙虾花胶叉烧包和鱼香茄子等菜式中加入花胶，以突显它的独特质感和多变的做法。 STARS ASCENDING | TK |

39

CHEF CONVERSATION

“What I focus on is not the idea of new dishes but the idea of dishes from the heart.

我在乎的不是新旧的『新』，而是我心里面的这个『心』。” DeAille Tam

行业的女性而言，如果现在的我能为她们带来 一点勇气的话，我会很开心能成为这样的榜样， 而且最重要还是考虑，自己愿意为喜欢的事情 花多少时间和精力。 」 在过去一年里，两位主厨走访中国各地 采风，深入探索关于中国菜系的故与新，寻找 菜品的创作灵感。他们严选优质进口食材和本 地时令食材入菜，以传统的中式元素和文化为 创作基础。谭主厨说 ： 「我们对于自己本身擅 长的东西很了解，譬如在研发新菜式时，我们 很快就知道谁能完成其中的哪个部分，然后再 融合在一起。如果我们单方面对于新菜式有想 法，我们会先去完成它，然后交给对方，让对 方给意见。这样更有利于我们将各自的长处在 同一道菜品上得到展示。我们做菜不是为了自 」 己，而是为了未来在 Obscura 用餐的客人。

COURTESY OF OBSCURA (5)

relaxed environment and when choosing a profession, I didn’t think too much about gender issues. For the women who intend to join this industry in the future, if I can give them a bit of courage in their decision, then I’m happy to be that kind of role model. The most important thing is to consider how much time and effort you’re willing to spend on something you love.”

Over the past year, Tam and Wong have visited many of the country’s most colorful locales, exploring the old and the new of China’s culinary methods and in search of ideas for their menus. They select local seasonal ingredients along with high-quality imports as the basis of their original creations. “The two of us have a clear understanding of what we are good at,” says Tam. “For example, when it comes time to research new dishes, we very quickly know which one of us will be able to handle which particular part. Then, at the end, we bring everything together. If one works on a dish alone, we’ll finish it before giving it to the other to taste and offer suggestions. This understanding is conducive to each of us

Obscura’s alluring chef’s table 曲线优雅的主厨餐桌

40

|

TK |

stars ascending

Dragon Well Tea Shrimp of Hangzhou

Chongqing Sauerkraut Fish

杭州龙井虾仁

四川酸菜鱼

Smoked New Zealand Black Abalone

Mung Bean for Pistachio Mung Bean Cake

烟熏新西兰 黑鲍鱼

制作开心果 绿豆糕的食材

CHEF CONVERSATION

Based on a Guangdong classic, lotus-baked chicken, Obscura’s pigeon is stuffed with a mushroom filling and accented with a special blend of Chinese condiments.

The prepared bird is then wrapped in caul fat and a fresh lotus leaf to provide additional flavor and lubrication while it cooks in an Anaori Kakugama pot.

When done, it is removed from the wrapping, hot oil is poured over the pigeon to crisp the skin, and it is served with foie gras sauce and fresh Australian winter truffle. 荷叶乳鸽以广东名菜荷叶鸡为创作基础。乳鸽填入蘑菇 馅，以特别的中国调料调味后，裹上猪网油，包在新鲜 荷叶中并放入碳锅。这个做法既能增添风味，又能锁住 肉汁。乳鸽出锅后从荷叶取出，反复淋上热油使表皮更 加香脆，并伴以鸭肝酱和澳洲黑松露上桌。

COURTESY OF OBSCURA (3)

DeAille Tam

Simon Wong

谭绮文

王思鸣

expressing our respective strengths in a dish. We’re not cooking for ourselves, but for the guests who will dine at this restaurant in the future.”

Instead of providing diners with a menu of the evening’s courses, servers explain dishes as they bring them to the table. Guests learn about the cooking methods, creative sources, and references for each item and take home those aspects that capture their interest or evoke memories.

After researching China’s tea culture, the restaurant team released a line of Obscura Blended Teas and gave the tea drinks on the menu special names, including Dianhong, Jingong, and Obscura Ale. Each offers a unique flavor profile and is paired with a corresponding dish.

Tam believes that a chef’s understanding of the concept of modern Chinese cuisine is inseparable from background, influences, and skills.

“Simon and I grew up in a culture featuring a mix of Eastern and Western elements, and we have always tried to find a balance between the two.

Our starting point is to take the culinary styles of different regions of China and use those flavors that inspire us to create a new dish. We may not handle ingredients like traditional Chinese chefs do, but we use those techniques we’re familiar with to express those flavors. What I focus on is not the idea of new dishes but the idea of dishes from the heart.”

为了使宾客用心感受料理，Obscura 并不 会事先准备当晚的菜单，而是由服务人员将做 好的料理端到客人面前时，悉心介绍菜品与做 法，创意来源与寓意。无论宾客听到多少，总 会有勾起他们回忆和激起兴趣的那部分。 此 外， 餐 厅 团 队 经 过 研 习 中 国 茶 文 化， ，并给予每款茶 特别推出「Obscura 特调 · 茶」 饮一个特别的名字，如滇红、进贡、玄 · 爱尔， 搭配对应菜品，别有风味。 谭主厨认为，厨师对「新中菜」的理解 与他的背景、灵感来源以及其功力是分不开的。 她解释 ： 「我们在中西交融的文化氛围中成长， 一直尝试在这两种文化之间取得良好平衡，将 中国不同地域的美食风味，糅合那些激发我们 灵感的味道，再演变成一道菜品。我们未必会 像中国传统师傅那样处理食材，而是用自己熟 悉的技术和烹饪手法，把这种味道呈现出来。 我在乎的不是新旧的『新』 ，而是我心里面的 这个『心』 」 。 stars ascending

|

TK |

43

PRESENTED BY GOURMET DINING GROUP

焕「法」雅致

friendly french Ami makes Parisian cuisine approachable.

在美食之都巴黎，你可以找到法国各地最出色的 IN PARIS, the city of gastronomy, it’s easy to find restaurants whose 地方料理，这些料理被统称为巴黎美食。现在， menus encompass all of the best regional French cuisines. Known collectively as Parisian cuisine, this sophisticated eclecticism is Ami 也为香港的饕客献上这种独特的「精致小馆」 风潮。 now available in Hong Kong at Ami, offering diners its unique “fine 「法文 行 政 总 厨 Nicolas Boutin 解 释 道 ： bistronomie.”

“Bistronomie,” explains Executive Chef Nicolas Boutin, “blends Bistronomie 一词结合了小酒馆和顶级美食，如 此悠闲的法式用餐体验汇聚了顶级美食和轻松氛 bistro and gastronomy. Our French casual fine dining becomes the 围。Ami 将不负众望，让宾客在放松用餐之余又 meeting point for refined culinary excellence and a friendly atmosphere. 能满足对餐点美味的追求。 」 Ami is a response to the trend of guests seeking a more relaxed experiNicolas 和主厨 Eric Taluy 为 Ami 的宾客带 ence without sacrificing truly exceptional food.” 来两种独特的用餐体验。第一种是全 Boutin and Chef de Cuisine Eric Taluy entice Ami’s BY 天单点菜单提供的一系列当代巴黎传 guests with two distinct dining experiences. The first is an VICKI WILLIAMS 统美食、诱人的共享菜肴和出色的酒 all-day à la carte menu offering the best in modernized • 吧小食。 traditional Parisian dishes, delicious sharing plates, and the PHOTOGRAPHY BY 菜单上其中一道最受欢迎的菜 city’s finest bar food.

SAMANTHA SIN 品是黑松露和泰式罗勒佐自家制意大 Already a top favorite on this list is homemade pasta 利面，并配搭风味细致的海鲜酱汁。 with black truffle and Thai basil, finished with a delicate 「泰式罗勒和松露可说是绝配，在酱 crustacean sauce. “Thai basil and truffle is a fantastic combination, with Nicolas 说 ： 汁中形成反差，增添不少层次感。 」 a point of contrast in a sauce that adds complexity,” says Boutin. 另一种用餐体验则是不断推陈出新的「主 The second dining option is Ami’s constantly changing Chef’s 厨创意」赏味菜单。宾客可品尝 Nicolas 和 Eric Inspiration tasting menu. This menu lets guests sample the creative 两位大厨的一系列精选创意料理，每一道都是选 best of both Boutin and Taluy, with each delectable item enlivened by 用上好的当令食材精制而成。 the finest seasonal produce. 以 创 意 别 具 的「 龙 虾・ 法 国 白 豆 」 为 例， A perfect example is named Lobster, Coco Beans and features 主厨选用了来自于生长周期较短的新鲜法国白 fresh white coco beans from France, a product with a very short 豆，并巧妙地将水煮及微炙龙虾、龙蒿和龙虾酱 season. The flavor profile is brilliantly realized by pairing ingredients 汁搭配法国白豆，让食材得以互相辉映，避免喧 that complement and elevate rather than overwhelm – poached and 「这道料理诠释了何谓『简 宾夺主。Nicolas 说 ： lightly roasted lobster, tarragon, and lobster sauce. “This is a dish of 单而优雅』 。这份有意为之而又纯粹的随性雅致 simple elegance,” says Boutin. “Intentionally uncomplicated casual chic 正是 Ami 的精神所在，餐厅的每道料理都只用 is at the heart of Ami, with only a small number of ingredients on each 少数的精选食材来制作。 」 French-influenced plate.” 这份精神也完美地体现在另一道经典甜点 The chef’s take on the classic dessert of Rum Baba is a case in 兰姆巴巴上。制作这道甜品，要先将蛋糕优雅地 point. Holding center stage on the plate, it is topped with a combina摆放在盘子中央，并覆盖着香缇鲜奶油和酸奶， tion of Chantilly cream and yogurt and simply garnished with charred 最后再用炙烧芒果装饰。 mango.

Ami 餐厅有可提供四百多种顶级威士忌的 Ami, along with adjacent Wood Ear bar, offering more than four Wood Ear 酒吧与之毗邻，继曾由 Nicolas 掌舵的 hundred top whisky labels, is the fourth highly successful concept from

Gourmet Dining Group, which also includes one-Michelin-star ÉPURE (formerly helmed by Boutin), two-Michelin-star Arbor and prestigious French culinary brand DALLOYAU.

44

|

TK |

stars ascending

米其林一星餐厅 ÉPURE、米其林二星餐厅 Arbor 及 百 年 法 国 糕 点 品 牌 DALLOYAU， 成 为 第 四家

Gourmet Dining Group 成功打造的卓越餐厅。

Rum Baba 兰姆巴巴 Lobster, coco beans 龙虾・法国白豆

→ Eric Taluy & Nicolas Boutin Homemade pasta with black truffle and Thai basil 黑松露和泰式罗勒佐 自家制意大利面

“Intentionally uncomplicated casual chic is at the heart of Ami, with only a small number of ingredients on each French-influenced plate.

这份有意为之而又纯粹的随性雅致正 是Ami的精神所在，餐厅的每道料理 都只用少数的精选食材来制作。”

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

45

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

扬帆启航

SETTING COURSE Chef Michele Dell’Aquila brings a fresh new direction to The Manor.

BY INARA SIM

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY DADO KIT

M E M O R Y O F T H E S E A - A CQ U E R E L LO R I S OT TO 意 大 利 A CQ U E R E L LO 米 海 鲜 饭 For this luxe version of an Italian classic, Dell’Aquila simmers the rice in a rich fish stock to develop its sumptuous flavor. The delicate langoustine and lobster are cooked à la minute and placed atop the rice before serving. 在这道升级的意大利经典料理中，Michele 以浓厚鱼汤炖出米饭的馥郁滋味。

欧洲海鳌虾与波士顿龙虾则在上菜前才现烹，并置于米饭上。

46

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

Michele Dell’Aquila

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

EVERY THING HAS CHANGED. Two years ago, as an all-day-dining restaurant offering hotel guests everything from breakfast to weekend buffets, The Manor at The St. Regis Macao featured a mélange of Portuguese and international cuisine that lacked a clear focus.

But under the leadership of Executive Sous Chef Michele Dell’Aquila, the restaurant over the past eighteen months has seen radical changes to the menu, the team, and the service standards. The transformative journey, however, hasn’t come without its challenges.

“When I started,” says Dell’Aquila, “we were ten days into the COVID19 pandemic, and three days later, we had to close. It was a time of panic, and no one really knew what was going on.” Looking back, he realizes that what began as a negative situation turned out to have a very positive side.

“We had to close the restaurant, but it gave us the opportunity to write new menus, discuss our plans, and do food tastings. We might have been shut down, but we were still here, working hard in the kitchen, cooking, training, looking for new and exciting products to bring to our guests.”

After one month, the chef and his team reopened the restaurant with an entirely new direction and a clear concept. “I’m actually thankful

Turbot 多宝鱼

两 年 前， 澳 门 瑞 吉 酒 店 的 雅 舍 作 为 一 间 全 日 餐 厅， 为 酒 店 客 人 提 供 早 餐、 周 末 自 助 餐 等 各 式 餐 饮， 菜 品 混 杂 葡 国 菜 以 及 其 他 主 题 各 异 的 环 球 料 理。 如 今， 雅 舍 有 了 令 人 耳 目 一 新的转变。 在行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila 的带 领下，餐厅的菜单、团队与服务水准，均在过 去 18 个月展现了飞跃性的改变。然而，这趟焕 然一新的旅程并不是一帆风顺。 「我上任时，是疫情爆发的 Michele 表示 ： 第十天，三天后餐厅就必须暂停营业了。当时 社会气氛紧张，所有人都手足无措。 」回想起来， 他才意识到「塞翁失马，焉知非福」 。 「我们虽 然要暂停营业，但这却给了我们一个重新设计 菜单、拟订计划、试菜的机会。虽然当时餐厅 的大门被迫关上，但在厨房内，我们仍努力创 作菜式、不断地进行培训，希望为客人探求全 新的餐饮体验。 」

T U R B OT, J E R U S A L E M A R T I C H O K E S B A R I G O U L E , BEURRE BLANC, MUSHROOM 法国多宝鱼、法式炖奶油菊芋、白奶油酱汁、野菌

In an innovative take on a classic pasta, Chef Dell’Aquila creates an open ravioli to complement succulent turbot. The lightly cooked fish is covered with a sheet of luxurious squid ink pasta and topped with seaweed butter sauce. “When you use a great ingredient,” he says, “you don’t have to do much to it.”

Michele以烹调意式云吞的手法突显法国多宝鱼的鲜嫩多汁，为经典意大利面食带来新意。鱼肉经过简易烹调后，以豪奢的 墨鱼汁意式云吞皮与白奶油海带酱覆盖。主厨说道：「只要选用的食材质素够高，就不需要对它做过多的烹调。」

for the closure,” he says. “Without that, it would have been so much harder to make all these changes, and it would have been confusing for guests. We reopened completely fresh and gave the restaurant new life.”

As part of the metamorphosis, Dell’Aquila has designed seven original menus: The Long and Short of It, Celebrate Sustainability, Let’s Do Lunch, Let’s Do a Luxe Lunch, Stories of the Sea, A la Carte, and Dessert.

In explaining the new approach, he remarks, “We’re investing more in quality products, dishes are more refined, and we focus on single ingredients to let them be the stars.”

The most recent of the menus, Celebrate Sustainability, was launched in September 2021 with the aim of raising awareness about the environment and how our food choices impact it. “We see this as a real lifestyle shift,” he says. “It’s more than just a fad and we want to be at the forefront of this change.” The six-course set dinner menu features carefully selected and sustainably produced ingredients, including True Born Beef from Portugal, Tuscan zolfini beans, Aquanaria Canary Islands sea bass, and the natura Glenilen yogurt from Ireland.

Other major changes have come to the structure of the staff and the way the teams work together. “We also really wanted to emphasize the service environment,” says Dell’Aquila. “We have a new sommelier, a new manager and assistant manager, more skilled people with a background in Michelin-star restaurants. That helps to elevate the

一个月后，主厨与他的团队以崭新的方向， 与明确的理念，重启了餐厅。他说 ： 「我对这次 停业心怀感恩。若非停业，餐厅要进行改革会 更加困难，日常营运中也可能令顾客感到困惑。 现在，我们焕然一新，餐厅也重获新生。 」

Michele 设计的七份原创菜单是这次革新 的焦点所在，它们包括了尝・先、臻享可持续 之味、时令午餐、丰盛豪华午餐、海洋之魅、 单点菜单与甜品。问到菜单背后的理念， 他解释： 「我们注重投放更多到食材的品质上，菜式也更 加精致。我们致力于让菜式中的单一食材成为 主角。 」 九月问世的最新菜单 – 臻享可持续之味， 旨在唤起保护环境意识，并带出食材的选用是 「我 如何对环境造成影响的反思。Michele 说 ： 们将此视为生活型态的转变，而不只是追赶潮 流。我们要成为这场变革的先锋。 」六道菜的晚 餐菜单标榜精选的可持续生产的食材，包括来 意大利 Zolfini 白豆、 自葡萄牙的 True Born 牛肉、 西班牙 Aquanaria 海鲈及爱尔兰 Glenilen 乳酪。 其他重大革新则体现在员工编制及团队合 「我们也希望强调服务 作方面。Michele 表示 ： stars ascending

|

TK |

49

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

service. You can’t just be zeroed in on the kitchen and ignore the service, you must grow the two together.”

The chef notes that the response to the changes has been overwhelmingly positive: “I feel like The Manor has gone from strength to strength in the last two years. We’ve seen a dramatic increase in patronage, especially from return customers. Many have become like friends and family, and they’re giving me free rein to create new and exciting dishes for them.”

A p p rova l h a s co m e n ot o n l y from the clientele. The Manor recently won two prestigious honors, the Best Western Restaurant in China Feast Award and a Platinum Award on the Trip.com Gourmet Top Global Restaurant List. “When a restaurant gets a reputation, you have to maintain it,” says Dell’Aquila. “And you need to keep getting better.”

With the new menus has come a laser-focused vision regarding diner satisfaction. “The concept that we’ve created has proved very popular,” he says. “We’re using only the best ingredients and concentrating more on the fine points. At lunchtime, I want people to enjoy great food, and we’ve made it an elevated experience, with details in each dish. And at dinner, we can create even more complex dishes with a higher level of presentation, because people have more time.

“They’re expecting more at dinner, and we’re able to give them more. They want to linger over and enjoy their meal. They want to sip wine, ask questions, and learn about the ingredients we’re using. They’re more appreciative of the food, more interested in where it has come from and the stories behind the dishes. People realize that it’s time to start living again.”

David Blackmore Wagyu 澳洲David Blackmore和牛

50

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

D AV I D B L A C K M O R E F U L L B LO O D WA GY U M S 9+ S I R LO I N

澳 洲 D AV I D B L A C K M O R E 纯 种 M S 9+ 和 牛 西 冷

Dell’Aquila selects beef from Blackmore Wagyu, an award-winning, internationally recognized Australian producer of 100 percent fullblood Wagyu. He first marinates and then quickly sears the meat.

Served with seasonal vegetables and three different sauces, it’s a dish perfect for sharing.

Michele 选用国际认可、获奖无 数的 Blackmore 纯种澳洲和牛， 先熟成后轻煎，配有季节时蔬 及三种佐酱。这道菜式是大夥 分享的最佳选择。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

51

Executive Sous Chef Michele Dell’Aquila and Hotel Sommelier David Duan 行政助理总厨 Michele Dell’Aquila及侍酒师段立山

质素。我们聘请了一位侍酒师 、一位经理与一位副经理，他

「我们的这个新概念确实很受欢迎。我们只 Michele 总结说 ：

添助益。餐厅追求不断进步，就应该双管齐下，不能只守在

选用最上等的食材，而且更加专注于细微之处。我希望大家

厨房里闭门造车，却忽略了服务品质。 」

在短暂的午餐时段都能够细尝美食，因此我们在每一道菜的

Michele 表示，改革后得到的回馈是极为正面的。他说： 「在过去的两年间，雅舍日益茁壮，我们的来访率，尤其是 再访率，有大幅的增长。许多常客变得像我们的朋友、家人 一样亲近，甚至指定我为他们量身创作菜单。 」 除了来自客人的肯定，雅舍最近还收获了两项殊荣 – 由

52

|

伴随新菜单而来的，是餐厅对顾客满意度的极致追求。

们都曾在米其林星级餐厅工作，这对我们服务品质的提升更

细节上下了功夫，带来更精致的午膳体验。晚餐时段的时间 较为充裕，我们就可以创作出摆盘更细致、烹调更繁复的料 理。 」 「客人对晚餐的期待比较高，我们也可以做得更多，满 足他们的期望。他们会想细细品尝、 用心感受。他们会想品酩、

「盛宴中国」餐厅评选的「最佳西餐厅」 ，以及「2021 携程美

发问，并认识我们选用的食材。他们会更加珍赏食物，同时

「当一间 食林全球餐厅精选榜」的铂金奖。 Michele 表示 ：

对食材来源及餐点背后的故事更有兴趣。他们会领悟到，是

餐厅盛名远播时，你就得维持它，也必须精益求精。 」

时候重新启航了。 」

TK |

stars ascending

PRESENTED BY THE ST. REGIS MACAO

I L C R I O L LO D O M O R I C H O CO L AT E T H E O R I G I N A L I L C R I O L LO 意 大 利 D O M O R I C R I O L LO 巧 克 力

For this luscious dessert, the chef uses chocolate from Domori, produced from blends of single-origin cocoa beans sourced from plantations in South America and Africa. He combines glazed mousse, chocolate cream, and bitter cocoa ice cream in a chocolate shell garnished with gold leaf and then pours hot chocolate over the top to reveal the delights within. 主厨采用源于南美和非洲单一产区品种可可豆 制成的意大利 Domori 巧克力，来制作这道 浓郁的甜点。他结合了镜面慕斯和巧克 力奶油，将黑巧克力冰淇淋装在饰以 金箔的巧克力蛋中，再浇上热巧克 力使其融化，展露内藏的惊喜。

PRESENTED BY V-ZUG

Mille crêpe cake layered with fresh flower crab and scallion cream and topped with sweet shrimp and osetra caviar 法式千层花蟹与香葱奶油酱薄饼， 佐甜虾及奥斯特拉鲟鱼鱼子酱

54

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

「蒸」准烹饪美学

FULL STEAM AHEAD An award-winning chef continues her unflagging pursuit of excellence.

BY MAMIE CHEN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

55

Green olive foam with steamed grouper fish and preserved lemon atop French beans 清蒸石斑鱼肉卷，佐绿橄榄油 泡沫、腌渍柠檬及四季豆

PRESENTED BY V-ZUG

VICKY LAU, chef-owner of Tate Dining Room, never hesitates to make a move. After attending a recreational cooking class at Le Cordon Bleu in Bangkok, she made a dramatic mid-career shift from graphic design to the culinary arts. And upon completing the renowned school’s nine-month Grand Diplôme program, she returned to Hong Kong to further hone her skills in a Michelin-starred kitchen before boldly setting off on her own.

Lau opened Tate as a casual cafe, but it wasn’t long before she decided to transform the concept into a more refined dining space that better matched her culinary philosophy and style. That change has resulted in countless accolades and awards, including the title Best Female Chef in Asia bestowed by Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants and a Michelin one-star rating that would be sedulously maintained for eight consecutive years until the restaurant at last garnered the coveted twostar award in 2021.

“That second Michelin star has been a goal of ours,” says Lau, “and we’ve been working hard towards it. Just like kung fu, it’s important to have the right mindset and you need to take the time to practice and practice.” She attributes her team’s recent accomplishments to their tireless efforts in achieving and maintaining consistency: consistency in finding the right balance between the art and the science in their dishes, consistency in respecting the inherent beauty and purity of the ingredients, consistency in perfecting their creations.

She casts an approving glance over a freshly plated roulade of steamed grouper fish atop a bed of meticulously cut French beans and surrounded by five dollops of green olive foam. As the Drupe course in Tate’s Ode to Fruits menu – Lau’s in-depth exploration of different classifications of fruit – the dish has taken some time to polish. After selecting olives as the rather unexpected representative of stone fruits, Lau researched and experimented with many varieties of olives and many forms of presentation before settling on a light and airy pickled green olive foam that provides mild hints of brininess and tanginess.

The roulade consists of grouper fillet layered with shrimp paste, rolled in a sheet of dried seaweed, and steamed to perfection. “Steaming is an essential part of our cuisine at Tate,” says Lau, whose rule of thumb is to include both French and Chinese techniques and/

Chef-owner Vicky Lau 主厨刘韵棋

漫漫厨艺路上，TATE 餐厅主厨兼创办人刘韵棋 Vicky Lau 从未却 步，总是果断前行。原本从事平面设计的她，在「巴黎蓝带厨艺 学校 (Le Cordon Bleu)」曼谷分校完成厨艺课程后，转而走进厨 房，展开另一种艺术生涯。 完成为期九个月的「高级厨艺大文凭

(Grand Diplôme)」课程后，刘韵棋回到香港，先是在一间米其林 星级餐厅磨练厨艺，后来才自行开业。 起初，刘韵棋把 TATE 定位成普通咖啡厅，但不久后，她就 改变主意，并带领 TATE 转型成精致餐饮空间，这风格也更符合 她对烹饪的理念与风格。这项转变为她带来许多奖项与肯定，包 括被评选为「亚洲 50 最佳餐厅」亚洲最佳女厨师。此外，TATE 连续八年荣获米其林一星的肯定，更在 2021 年晋升为米其林二星 餐厅。 刘韵棋表示 ： 「获得第二颗米其林星星一直都是我们的目标， 我们也为此付出了相当多的努力。这和练功夫的道理很像，你必 须保有正确的心态，更要勤加练习。 」她将近期取得的成就，归功 于团队对料理一贯的「坚持」 ，即坚持在饮食的艺术与科学中取得 平衡， 致力保留食材的原味与美学， 同时追求更高境界的厨艺创新。 stars ascending

|

TK |

57

Smoked pigeon breast, pigeon leg confit stuffed in chicken wing, and poultry consommé 烟熏鸽胸、鸡翅镶油 封鸽腿佐法式清汤

PRESENTED BY V-ZUG

“That’s the kind of precision we strive for every day at Tate.

TATE所追求的，一直都是这种『精准度』。” “It’s unique for an oven to have a high level of precision at low temperatures like this,” Lau says of her V-ZUG combi-oven. She smokes a whole pigeon at 60˚C before pouring hot oil over it to achieve Chinese-style crispy skin. 提及餐厅的V-ZUG多功 能蒸焗炉，刘韵棋说： 「它的独特之处，在于 对低温火侯的精准掌 握。」她以摄氏六十度 低温熏烤一只全鸽，再 以热油浇淋鸽肉，制成 中式口感的脆皮烤鸽。

or flavors in every dish. And while steaming isn’t commonly practiced in traditional French cuisine, it is an essential Chinese cooking method, especially for retaining the pure, original flavors in seafood.

“You need to use powerful steam with seafood or it can become a bit mushy,” she explains.

“And for this dish, the steaming temperature has to be quite precise and quite high to penetrate the layers and cook it quickly without overcooking – that’s the trick.”

To ensure meeting Lau’s exacting standards with consistency, the kitchens at Tate have been fitted with five combi-steam ovens by V-ZUG. “In fine dining, we aren’t churning out great quantities of food,” she says, “but we do need every dish to be absolutely perfect. We steam our fish to order, so having a number of these smaller ovens is very helpful. They’re fast and they’re accurate at both high and low temperatures – it’s the science side of cooking, and we know we can always rely on it.

“That’s the kind of precision we strive for every day at Tate.”

看着刚刚被盛盘的清蒸石斑鱼肉卷，刘韵棋的脸上露出满意的神 ， 色。这道料理是「水果颂 (Ode To Fruits)」系列中的「核果 (Drupe)」 以鱼肉卷为主体，下方排列着仔细切段的四季豆，再以些许绿橄榄油 泡沫点缀。 「水果颂」是刘韵棋精心设计的一系列料理，每道菜皆以不 同的果实命名。其中，刘韵棋花了不少时间改良这道「核果」 。她以不 同种类的橄榄入馔，并试验各种烹调方式，最后以轻盈的腌渍橄榄油 泡沫来呈现咸味与香气强烈的橄榄，使其风味更为温顺，别出心裁地 以「橄榄」诠释「核果」的概念。 鱼肉卷以石斑鱼菲力和虾酱制成，裹上海苔后卷成肉卷，并以清 蒸的方式烹调。刘韵棋的厨艺风格倾向结合中、法式料理的口味和烹 调手法。她说 ： 「清蒸是 TATE 很重要的烹调方式之一。 」清蒸在传统的 法国菜里并不常见，但在中国菜里却扮演极其重要的角色，尤其能保 留海鲜的原汁原味。 刘韵棋解释道 ： 「清蒸海鲜时，蒸气的温度要够高，否则海鲜的 口感会变得软烂。以这道料理来说，蒸气的温度必须够高且精确，才 」 能确保食物煮熟，却不至于煮过头 – 这就是秘诀所在。 为了达到她对「精准度」的坚持，TATE 的厨房配有五台 V-ZUG 多功能蒸焗炉。刘韵棋说 ： 「精致饮食追求的不是量产，而是让每一道 菜都能达到最完美的状态。我们的鱼类料理通常以清蒸的方式烹煮， 适合用数个小型蒸焗炉同步烹调。这款蒸焗炉能缩短食物烹煮的时间， 对高温或低温的掌控都非常精确。这就是做菜的科学，而科学总是值 得我们信赖。 」 「TATE 所追求的，一直都是这种『精准度』 。 」 stars ascending

|

TK |

59

AWARDS

「世界 50 大最佳餐厅」 2021 年颁奖 典礼在 10 月 5 日于比利时安特卫普盛 大举行，这项由意大利品牌圣沛黎洛 和巴娜赞助的奖项吸引了全球烹饪明 星齐聚一堂。典礼上颁布了今年来 自五大洲 26 个国家的获奖餐厅和排 名，这份年度榜单是由超过一千位美 食作家、评论家、厨师、餐厅老板和 国际烹饪专家组成的「世界50大最佳 餐厅学院」成员投票选出。

BEST IS BAC Global culinary stars gathered in Antwerp, Belgium, on October 5 to celebrate The World’s

BY LUCY MORGAN

50 Best Restaurants 2021 awards, sponsored

by S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna. The glitzy event reveals the ranking of the chosen winners, this year from twenty-six countries across five continents. The annual list is voted on by members of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants Academy, made up of more than one thousand food writers and critics, chefs, restaurateurs, and international culinary experts.

60

|

TK |

stars ascending

After a year’s hiatus, one of the gastronomy world’s most anticipated events returns.

CK

FEATURE

62 64 66 68 70 72

AWARDS

1 NOMA

CO P E N H A G E N , D E N M A R K 丹麦哥本哈根

N A M E D A S B O T H T h e Wo r l d ’s B e s t Restaurant 2021 and The Best Restaurant in Europe 2021, Noma, helmed by Chef René Redzepi, is no stranger to such recognition.

The chef’s former venue, also called Noma, won the top award four times before closing in 2016. The current incarnation opened in 2018 with a new location, concept, and owner.

A temple to seasonal ingredients, Noma divides its menu into three phases. Winter sees a celebration of seafood, summer features the season’s finest vegetables, and autumn days and nights are warmed by rich game meats and treasures from the forest.

Ingredients foraged locally and elements from a state-of-the-art fermentation kitchen help create imaginative flavor combinations guaranteed to dazzle guests year round.

由 主 厨 René Redzepi 掌 舵， 被 评 为 2021 年世界最佳餐厅和 2021 年欧洲最佳餐厅的

Noma，对这荣耀其实也不陌生。这位主厨带 领的前一家餐厅也叫 Noma，其在 2016 年歇 业前曾四度荣获第一名。新餐厅于 2018 年开 业，在新店址、新概念和新事业伙伴合作下 重新出发。 作 为 严 选 当 季 时 令 食 材 的 烹 饪 殿 堂，

Noma 将菜单分为三个阶段。 冬天有海鲜盛 宴，夏天有当季最新鲜上乘的蔬菜，而秋天 的丰富森林野味和珍馐，总温暖着日升到日 落的每个时刻。所有食材都在当地采集，再 以最先进的发酵厨房设备创造出充满想像力 的风味组合，保证客人每次到访都耳目一新。

62

|

TK |

stars ascending

AWARDS

2 GERANIUM

CO P E N H A G E N , D E N M A R K 丹麦哥本哈根

ANOTHER WIN for the Danish capital is Geranium, helmed

by acclaimed chef Rasmus Kofoed. It’s not the pitch views from its unusual location inside the national football stadium that lure international visitors but rather Kofoed’s exquisite cooking and plating skills. The plant-and-seafood-forward menu reveals unparalleled craftsmanship, as the chef ingeniously orchestrates color, texture, and empty space to produce plate after artful plate.

Under Kofoed, Geranium in 2016 was Denmark’s first restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars. He is also the only chef in history to have won the gold, silver, and bronze medals at the Bocuse d’Or competition. Aligned closely with the seasons, Kofoed’s sixteen-course tasting menu is a yearround delight. 另一家同样来自哥本哈根的上榜餐厅，是由著名厨师 Rasmus

Kofoed 掌舵的 Geranium。这家餐厅之所以能吸引全球顾客上 门，不是因为它坐落在国家足球场内，而是由于主厨 Rasmus 精湛的烹饪和摆盘技巧。以植物和海鲜作为手中画笔，主厨在 每道菜中展现了无与伦比的烹饪技艺，加上巧妙的色彩、质感 和留白的搭配，将创意挥洒在一道道如画布般的佳肴之中。 在 Rasmus 带领下，Geranium 于 2016 年成为丹麦第一 家获得米其林三星的餐厅，他也是唯一一位在博古斯世界烹饪 大赛 (Bocuse d’Or) 中获得金、银、铜奖的厨师。在 Rasmus 知名的 16 道菜品尝菜单中，每一道皆与季节息息相关，让人 沉浸于四季之美。

64

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

stars ascending

|

TK |

65

AWARDS

3 ASADOR

E T X E B A R R I , AT XO N D O , S PA I N 西班牙阿特克松多

FIRE IGNITES Chef Victor Arguinzoniz’s imagination as he masterfully presides over his bespoke grill at Asador Etxebarri in the foothills of the Basque Country. Amplifying the natural flavors of a vast range of artisanal ingredients, the chef even prepares his own fresh coals daily in a 750-degree oven, using woods like holm oak for fish and vine trunks for meat. His love of the grill goes so far as to include a dessert featuring smoked ice cream.

Remaining true to his roots, Arguinzoniz has elevated a cooking method that reflects his childhood growing up in a house without gas or electricity, where food was often cooked over open flames. 在 位 于 巴 斯 克 地 区 山 脚 的 Asador Etxebarri 餐 厅， 炭 火 点 燃 了 主 厨 Victor Arguinzoniz 如魔术般的想像力，他钻研出独特的烧烤技巧，展现出各种手工食 材的天然风味。主厨每天准备在 750 度的烤箱中的新鲜煤炭，使用像圣栎等木 材来烹调鱼肉，用藤蔓树干来烹煮肉类。他对烧烤情有独钟，甚至因而创作出 烟熏冰淇淋。

Victor 年幼时，居住在一间没有煤气和电的房子，食物大多只能在焰火上 烹煮，而这个记忆让他悟出了独一无二的烧烤技巧。

66

|

TK |

stars ascending

stars ascending

|

TK |

67

AWARDS

4 CENTRAL

L I M A, P E R U 秘鲁利马

68

|

TK |

stars ascending

THE FLAGSHIP RESTAURANT of husband-and-wife chefs Virgilio Martínez and Pía León is a true celebration of Peru, offering tasting menus that double as edible lessons in history and geography. Their business’s research arm, Mater Inciativa, is devoted to rediscovering Peruvian ingredients, and the restaurant’s pantry is stocked with rare plants and the finest seafood and meats, reflecting the country’s extraordinary biodiversity.

These incredible ingredients are featured in tasting menus inspired by different ecosystems and altitudes. Before reaching the dining room, guests walk through a vegetable garden featuring over one hundred species. And with Central’s strong focus on sustainability, recycling and composting are key parts of kitchen life.

夫妻厨师档 Virgilio Martínez 和 Pía León 的旗舰餐 厅 Central 是对秘鲁国度的歌颂，其餐厅的品尝菜 单，可作为历史课和地理课的「食用」教材。餐厅 业务研究部门的 Mater Inciativa 致力于重新发掘秘 鲁的食材，且餐厅的储藏室备有满满的珍稀植物和 上等的海鲜和肉类，充分展现出秘鲁非凡的生物多 样性。 受当地多元的生态物种和具差异性的海拔高 度所影响，品尝菜单中所采用的食材总是令人惊 艳。顾客在抵达 Central 前，会穿越一座拥有超过 一百种植物的菜园。餐厅对于环境永续发展的高度 关注，也让各种回收和堆肥成为厨房里的常客。

stars ascending

|

TK |

69

70

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

AWARDS

5 DISFRUTAR

B A R C E LO N A, S PA I N 西班牙巴塞罗那

WITH A NAME that translates as “enjoy,” Disfrutar is the

Disfrutar 的 意 思 为「 享 受 」， 是 El Bulli 毕 业

brainchild of a talented trio of El Bulli graduates, chefs Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas, and Eduard Xatruch. They opened the restaurant in 2014 with a clear goal: to “please, surprise, and excite” diners with technical skill and culinary imagination. It has since earned a reputation as a destination that pushes the boundaries of thrilling contemporary cuisine.

The beautiful venue offers guests a selection of areas for enjoying the chefs’ masterpieces. One recent feature is a “creativity kitchen” with a table that comes to life during the dining experience, revealing secret compartments and drawers that hold delicious treats.

生 – 天 才 主 厨 三 人 组 Oriol Castro、Mateu

Casañas 和 Eduard Xatruch 的心血结晶。他们 在 2014 年开设这家餐厅时就确立了明确的目 标 ：要「取悦、惊艳和激发」具有烹饪技能和 想像力的食客。从那时起，餐厅便赢得了以突 破当代美食框架为目标的美誉。

Disfrutar 美仑美奂的空间设计打造出不同 的用餐区，让宾客欣赏厨师的杰作，包括近期 最受欢迎的「创意厨房」 ，其中一张餐桌在用 餐时像是被赋予了生命，存放美味佳肴的格层 和抽屉会自动打开，设计别出心裁。 stars ascending

|

TK |

71

AWARDS

H I G H E S T C L I M B E R AWA R D 排名跃升奖

2021

SPONSORED BY ALASKA SEAFOOD 由阿拉斯加海鲜赞助

THE CHAIRMAN H O N G KO N G 香港大班楼

BEHIND THE DOORS of a two-story townhouse in central Hong Kong, diners embark on a gastronomic journey honoring two thousand years of Cantonese culinary history. Crowned Best Restaurant in Asia in 2021, The Chairman also takes home the Highest Climber Award 2021 after ascending a dizzying thirty-one notches from its No.41 ranking in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019.

Chef Kwok Keung Tung’s celebration of tradition begins with highquality local produce, including delicious preserved meats and salted eggs from a small farm in Sheung Shui. And members of his team rise at dawn to snag the best of the day’s catch from Hong Kong’s fishermen. 在香港市中心一栋两层楼的联排别墅门后，食客们踏上了一场向两千年粤 菜历史致敬的美食之旅。在 2021 年获选为亚洲最佳餐厅后，大班楼在「世 界 50 大最佳餐厅」排名中，从 2019 年第 41 名的排名位置，迅速窜升 31 位，令人眼前一亮，同时荣获了 2021 年排名跃升奖。 主厨郭强东坚持采用高品质的当地农产品，包括来自上水农场的美 味腌肉和咸蛋，而他的团队成员也孜孜不倦地每日在黎明时分起床，亲 自到渔港从渔民手中采买当天最好的渔获。

stars ascending

|

TK |

73

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

74

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

WHITE DOG

e th y r re lo na ial xp uli t s e f c ten es. ef l o n o Ch rsa ss p pag e e e ad niv ndl ham ss u u ba ost bo ug C Am m its Kr d i th at ug n w Kr f th ls a g s o ntia irin in ig sse pa e for or

P

E E

N I L

G

H T

E

O

N

IO

N

75

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

库克香槟酒庄（Krug）一直视每座葡萄园的收成 UNDERSTANDING THAT THE WINE of each individual plot is itself 为独一无二的原料，因此每年皆邀请库克大使厨 a single ingredient in the creation of Krug Champagnes, the House of 师参与单一食材厨艺挑战，以佳肴搭配库克陈年 Krug has honored its savoir-faire by inviting Krug Ambassade Chefs 香槟（Krug Grande Cuvée）或库克粉红香槟（Krug year after year to interpret a different single ingredient, crafting unexRosé）。 pected recipes to pair with a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée or Krug Rosé. 本年度单一食材厨艺挑战的主题食材是我们 This year’s single ingredient, the familiar onion, is considered 熟悉的洋葱。几乎全世界的料理皆视 foundational by virtually every cuisine in the world. 洋葱为根本，纵观历史，从最朴实的 Throughout history, in all manner of dishes from the BY 乡村炖菜到精致餐饮的名贵佳肴，它 humblest country stew to the most rarefied fare in the CHRIS DWYER 总 在 蔬 菜 界 中 占 有 一 席 之 地。 然 而， gastronomic stratosphere, it has held pride of place in the 洋葱到底从何而来？担任千年的日常 pantheon of vegetables. But where did it come from and 食材后，它是否还有值得被发掘的料理潜能？ what yet-unexplored culinary possibilities does it offer? 为了解开谜底，11 位身任库克大使、擅长以 To find the answers, the House of Krug in January of 2020 invited 独特美馔搭配库克陈年香槟及库克粉红香槟的专 eleven of its Ambassade Chefs, masters of acclaimed restaurants 业名厨，在 2020 年 1 月受邀前往印度展开探索 selected to feature Krug Grande Cuvée and Krug Rosé, to set out on a 之旅。据闻，这个国家便是洋葱的原产地。 journey of discovery to India, the onion’s likely place of origin. 在库克酒庄首席酿酒师 Julie Cavil 与前任首 Krug Cellar Master Julie Cavil, along with former Krug Cellar 席酿酒师兼酒庄副总监 Éric Lebel 的陪同下，11 Master and Deputy Director of the House Éric Lebel, accompanied the 位大厨前往印度迷人的粉红之城─斋浦尔，利用 eleven Krug Ambassade Chefs to Jaipur, India’s enchanting Pink City.

76

|

TK |

stars ascending

三天的时间体验当地文化与美食。在欢迎盛宴后， 他们走访了闹市的街头美食区，路过繁忙的市场 和仓储设备，穿梭在手捧满是洋葱的超大手缝袋 的人群中，并于餐厅顶楼享用了色香味俱全的咖 喱午餐。 旅程的第二天，他们参观了一座洋葱农场， 并参与了一场露天洋葱盛宴。告别之时适逄洒红 节，一众主厨亦投入这个欢乐的印度传统春季节 日。 回家后，主厨将想像付诸行动，设计出创 新的洋葱料理来搭配库克陈年香槟或库克粉红香 槟。库克陈年香槟是品牌享负盛名的代表，自

1843 年起每年皆会重新调制，精心混酿来自十多 个不同年份、总计约 120 种的葡萄基酒。首席酿 「库克陈年香槟的每个版本都 酒师 Julie Cavil 说 ： 是不同年份、不同葡萄酒产区的独特混酿，足以 与各式美食相互搭配。 」

WHITE DOG

A three-day immersion in the local culture and cuisine included a lavish welcoming banquet, a visit to the city’s vibrant street food district, a tour of the busy market and storage facility where huge handsewn sacks are filled with onions, and a rooftop lunch of fragrant, colorful curries.

The next day brought a trip to a farm where onions are grown and an open-air feast that featured them. Farewell came with a celebration of Holi, the joyous Indian spring festival.

Once home, the chefs put their freshly charged imaginations to the test by creating original onion dishes to pair with either Krug Grande Cuvée or Krug Rosé. As the House’s “most generous expression of Champagne,” Krug Grande Cuvée, re-created every year since 1843, is a masterful blend of over one hundred twenty wines from more than ten different years. And, says Cellar Master Julie Cavil, “Each Édition of Krug Cuvée is a unique and expressive blend of different plots’ wines from a variety of years. This Champagne will beautifully accompany a wide variety of cuisines.”

Éric Lebel and Julie Cavil

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

UWE OPOCENSKY P E T R U S AT I S LA N D S H A N G R I -LA, H O N G KO N G , S .A . R 港岛香格里拉大酒店珀翠餐厅，香港

Among the Krug Ambassade Chefs on the journey to Jaipur was Uwe Opocensky of Michelinstarred Petrus at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong. TK recently talked with him about the experience. 厨师Uwe Opocensky任职于港岛香格里拉酒店米其林星级餐厅珀翠，是前往斋浦尔的库克大使厨师 之一。TK最近和他进行访谈，分享了这段经旅程的点滴。

What was your standout culinary memory from the trip?

We went to this onion farm outside Jaipur where we had five or six ladies doing us a full vegetarian meal based on onions. I can’t tell you how delicious that was – they made their own dhosas, their own chili paste, just everything was cooked to order. Really, really phenomenal with the humblest of ingredients. It was so unexpected to have such a delicious meal in the open air, eating with your fingers and being invited to their home.

How would you say the trip represented Krug’s approach?

Krug isn’t flashy or showy. It’s a great thing that Krug always does – going off the beaten track and playing with humble ingredients. It reflects what they see as luxury, that luxury isn’t necessarily what money can buy but that it represents experiences.

这次旅行中，您最难忘的美食回忆是什么？ 我们去了斋浦尔郊外的洋葱农场。有几位女士 为我们准备了以洋葱为基底的素食餐点，那种 美味实在是难以形容。自制的饼皮和辣椒酱都 是现点现做，食材简单，但味道却很出色。我 完全没有预料到可以坐在室外、直接用手享用 这么一顿美食。我们还受邀到他们家中作客。

您认为这次旅行如何展显出库克的理念？ 库克不走浮夸路线，总是追求不落窠臼，趣玩 家常食材，反映出他们眼中的奢华不一定需要 花钱，而是一种体验。

您认为库克为何选用洋葱作为主角？

Why do you think Krug chose to star the onion?

It’s used as a foundation – a lot of things start with an onion, like every base sauce. There are also so many flavor profiles – it can be very mild or very strong.

It can add color if you caramelize it, it can add sweetness. It’s like salt in that you can add it and it enhances. You can make a dish distinctive or you can just use it as a by-product you’ll never taste. It’s just so versatile, especially with all the varieties they have.

Tell us about your dish called Onion Tea that you paired with Krug Grande Cuvée 169ème Édition.

It’s a little bit what I stand for, being innovative and doing different things in a different way. I thought about something very classical, French onion soup for a French Champagne, but creating it differently. There are cheese elements in there, gougères with a Comté cheese filling. You’ve got dissolvable teabags and an onion consommé that gives you earthiness, richness, and sweetness.

WHITE DOG

What does Krug Champagne mean to you?

Krug for me is a special thing. There’s a richness that doesn’t need to be in a luxury environment. It’s also the roundness of it, its long history and an understated label and bottle – but you know how much work has gone into it, how many different wines they have in one bottle. You can be anywhere, you can enjoy it by yourself, but it’s more about being with people you like – and then you open something that’s close to your heart.

洋葱常被作为基底，很多东西都是从它着手， 例如各种酱汁。它的风味殊异，可以非常温和， 也可以非常强烈。焦化它，可以增色，还可以 增加甜味，就像加盐一样，能使味道更鲜明。 洋葱可以独挑大梁成为一道料理，也可以是不 会被吃下肚的摆盘装饰，再加上它还有不同品 种，实在是变化多端。

请您叙述一下那道与第 169 版库克陈年香槟搭配 的洋葱茶料理。 以新的方式做不同的事情，是我的特色。我以 不同的手法料理经典法式洋葱汤来搭配法国香 槟。料理中有用康提奶酪作为内馅的奶酪泡芙， 还有可溶性茶包和洋葱清汤，带来大地风味， 浓郁又鲜甜。

对您来说，库克香槟是什么？ 库克很与众不同，不需要在奢华的环境却能感 到富足，这也是它的隽永之处。它的标签和瓶 身低调却藏尽心思，单单一支就有着多少种不 同的葡萄酒。你可以在任何地方独自享受它， 但最美好的还是和你喜欢的人一起分享，并打 开心房诉说心事。

stars ascending

|

TK |

79

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

Through cooking, I have also been able to travel the world, bringing people together over food, enjoyment, and Krug. I have seen the endless possibilities life can offer and am driven to build upon each milestone, always pushing the boundaries to achieve more. 料理让我得以游历各地，用美食、欢乐、库克美酒汇聚大家。生活赋予的无 限潜力，激励我精益求精，不断突破框架以达成更多目标。”

S TA R T E R

Onion Tea 洋葱茶

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 169ème Édition 第 169 版库克陈年香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The color of the consommé is a golden prelude to Krug Grande Cuvée, while the sweetness of the Roscoff onions complements its freshness. The koji adds a layer of umami to the chocolate and coffee flavors, which combine well with the onion. This is a pairing that melds beautifully on the tongue. 清汤的色泽金黄，犹如库克 陈年香槟的酒身颜色，而罗 斯科夫粉红洋葱的甜味与鲜 度相互映衬，巧克力和咖啡 香也因为米麴而增添一抹鲜 味，与洋葱搭配得当，在舌 尖上组成美妙的合奏。

80

|

TK |

stars ascending

WHITE DOG (4)

“

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

TRISTIN FARMER ZÉN, SINGAPORE ZÉN，新加坡

S TA R T E R

Onion, Almond, and Licorice 洋葱、杏仁、甘草

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The nougaty, hazelnut, and amandine notes of the Champagne speak volumes to the broad strokes of rich nutty flavors in the dish. Hints of sweetness in the layers of onion umami complement the bold intensity of Krug. The subtle licorice cream is a surprising twist, bringing forward sweet spice and marzipan. 香槟中的牛轧糖、榛子和杏仁香气完美搭配这道料理中的浓浓坚果 香 ；藏于洋葱层层的鲜甜与库克香槟的鲜明强度相得益彰，细致的 甘草奶油中带有甜香料和杏仁糖，令人为之惊艳。

“

My first glass of Krug at Zén was a surreal moment, because it was when I was offered and accepted my current role. The sommelier served me a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée, and I will always associate this fullness and depth of flavor with one of the best days of my career. 我在Zén的第一支库克香槟是个梦幻时刻， 当时我受邀并接下了目前的职务。侍酒师 为我端来库克陈年香槟，它浓醇深沉的酒 韵总是能唤起我职涯中最美好的回忆。”

“

Although we all started with the simple onion, we each ended up with vastly different interpretations for our Krug pairings. During these unforgettable three days, Krug brought us all together and formed lasting friendships. 虽然我们都是从简单的洋葱开始，但每 个人对于库克的餐酒搭配都有截然不同 的诠释。在这难忘的三天里，库克将我 们聚在一起，结下长久的缘分。”

THEO CLENCH P O R T L A N D , LO N D O N , U N I T E D K I N G D O M 波特兰，伦敦，英国

S TA R T E R

Cevenne Onions, Turbot, Morels, and Alsace Bacon 塞文山洋葱、多宝鱼、羊肚菌和阿尔萨 斯培根

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The Champagne is bold with a fullness of flavors that comes through those of the onion. The palate of Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition is mirrored by the notes of the dish, with sweetness and freshness, which is why they complement each other so well. 香槟的浓醇在洋葱的香气中更加鲜明，第

168 版库克陈年香槟的口感呼应着料理的 调性，带有甜味和新鲜感，这使它们成

WHITE DOG (4)

为绝配。

stars ascending

|

TK |

83

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

S TA R T E R

Braised Onion with Duck Liver Essence, Mango, and Mustard 炖洋葱配鸭肝、芒果和芥末

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The variety of flavors in this dish – brioche, brown sugar, fruit, spices, and the elegant duck liver essence – make it a delectable match for Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition. The mélange on the palate creates a new flavor that plays in harmony with this Champagne. 这道料理风味多样，有奶油面包、红糖、水果、香料和细致的鸭肝， 使其成为第 168 版库克陈年香槟的绝佳搭配。透过口感的混搭创造 出全新风味，与这款香槟相互辉映。

HEIKO NIEDER T H E R E S TA U R A N T O F T H E D O L D E R G R A N D , ZÜRICH, SWIT ZERLAND 多尔德大酒店餐厅，苏黎世，瑞士

“

What strikes me as interesting is that when I mix flavors in the kitchen, I can see the result immediately. I would like to ask Joseph Krug how he was able to imagine the Champagne’s evolution when he began to create the most generous expression of Champagne every year. 有趣的是，当我在厨房混合风味时，可以立 即看到结果，所以我不禁想问库克香槟的创 办人Joseph Krug，当他在酿制香槟时，是如 何透过想像展现香槟最丰裕的特质。”

84

|

TK |

stars ascending

BERNHARD REISER REISERS AM STEIN, WÜRZBURG, GERMANY REISERS AM STEIN，维尔茨堡，德国

“

My grandmother used to make us peel onions as a punishment, but it was always fun for me because I enjoyed the smell and I always managed not to cry. Past, present, and future, the applications of the onion in and out of the kitchen are endless. 我祖母以往会用剥洋葱作为惩罚，但我总能 自得其乐，因为我爱洋葱的味道，还不会 流眼泪。无论过去、现在、还是未来，洋 葱在厨房内外的妙用都是无穷无尽的。”

S TA R T E R

Dombe Duck a la Si-Bee 果香东贝鸭

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Rosé 24ème Édition 第 24 版库克粉红香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The complexity of Krug Rosé 24ème Édition inspired me to create a dish that would reflect its unique palate. The fresh aroma of citrus fruit and the subtle bitterness of the grapefruit, together with the raspberry, play nicely with the coffee bean flavors in an invitation to discover the depth and elegance of the Champagne. 第 24 版库克粉红香槟的繁复性启发我创作出一道能体现其独

WHITE DOG (4)

特口感的料理，柑橘的清香和葡萄柚的微甘，再加上覆盆子， 与咖啡豆风味完美调和，引领食客探索香槟的深度和优雅。

stars ascending

|

TK |

85

CICCIO SULTANO D U O M O , R A G U S A, I TALY DUOMO，拉古萨，意大利

“

I thought about a recipe that would be eco-friendly by choosing local ingredients to salvage from what might otherwise be discarded from your refrigerator or pantry: dry bread, pieces of cheese, and onion.

The ingredients are simple, but a great Champagne reconciles the most elegant of paradoxes. 我想到了一道环保的食谱，选用在地食材，利用冰箱或储 柜中将被丢弃的食物，如干面包、奶酪片和洋葱。食材很 简单，但一支出色的香槟可以调和出最优雅的矛盾感。”

S TA R T E R

Cipolla al Formaggio Ragusano 拉古萨诺奶酪洋葱

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Rosé 23ème Édition 第 23 版库克粉红香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The pairing of Krug Rosé 23ème Édition with an onionbased dish is ideal for the intensity expressed in the Champagne through the pinot noir and meunier, but, most of all, for the mineral richness and savory notes that contrast with the sweetness of the onion. 第 23 版库克粉红香槟与洋葱料理搭配，非常适合透过 黑皮诺和莫尼耶表现出香槟的强度，但最重要的是， 丰富矿物质和咸味与洋葱的甜味形成对比。

86

|

TK |

stars ascending

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

S TA R T E R

Garden Onion Tart 花园洋葱馅饼

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟

PA I R I N G N OT E S

From sip to bite, Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition is a delightful match with the Garden Onion Tart, as both are rich and multilayered. With freshness and sweetness in perfect balance, Krug Grande Cuvée elevates the tart, bringing out what would otherwise be unrecognizable nuanced flavors. 从啜饮到品尝，第 168 版库克陈年香槟与花 园洋葱馅饼完美配对，因为两者口感皆丰富 且多层次。香槟中的鲜度和甜味完美平衡， 升华了洋葱馅饼，带出原本无法察觉的微妙 风味。

ANGUS MCINTOSH T H E C H E Y E N N E C LU B , S A R ATO G A, W YO M I N G , U S A T H E C H E Y E N N E C LU B ， 萨 拉 托 加 ， 怀 俄 明 州 ， 美 国

WHITE DOG (4)

“

Both my father and mother were chefs when I was growing up. I recall my father would hug me after getting off work and he would smell of onions. To this day, the scent comes back to me every time I come into the kitchen and put on my apron. 在我的成长时期，父亲和母亲都是厨师。记得父亲下班回家 后会拥抱我，他浑身都是洋葱味。直到今天，每当我走进厨 房，穿上围裙，我彷佛仍然能闻到那时的洋葱味道。”

stars ascending

|

TK |

87

IZUMI KIMURA 木村泉美 S TA R T E R

Texture

S U S H I J I N , TOYA M A , J A PA N

「质感」

鮨人，富山，日本

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟

PA I R I N G N OT E S

The male and female rockfish give the recipe a muscular and fatty texture respectively, tied together by the spring onion’s bitter sweetness. Just as Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition is a harmonious blend of 198 wines, the dish is a balanced mixture of saltiness, bitterness, and umami. 雄、雌石斑鱼分别呈现出扎实和软嫩的口感，洋葱的苦甜将两 者结合。正如第 168 版库克陈年香槟是 198 种葡萄酒的和谐融 合，这道料理正是咸、苦和鲜的平衡交融。

“

I tasted Krug for the first time the day I was named Maverick Man of the Year by Esquire magazine, by which I had been asked to pair my sushi with Krug Champagne. I felt a connection to Krug founder Joseph Krug, who was himself a refined maverick. 第一次品尝库克香槟是在被《君子》杂志评为 『年度先生』的那一天，我被要求将寿司和库 克香槟搭配在一起。我觉得自己与创办人Joseph Krug有某种缘分，因为他也是位优雅的君子。”

88

|

TK |

stars ascending

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

HIROYUKI KANDA 神田裕行 K A N D A, TO K YO , J A PA N 神田，东京，日本

S TA R T E R

Tuna Tartare with Indian Rice 金枪鱼鞑靼印度炖饭

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Rosé 23ème Édition 第 23 版库克粉红香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The tuna exudes minerals and aromas evocative of pinot noir, which are mirrored in the flavors and structure of Krug Rosé 23ème Édition. The umami of the fish accentuates the complexity of the Champagne, as well as the sweetness of the onion. 金枪鱼散发的香味令人联想到黑皮 诺葡萄的矿物质和香气，呼应着第

23 版库克粉红香槟的酒味和结构， 鱼肉的鲜味突显出香槟的繁复和洋 葱的甜味。

WHITE DOG (3)

“

I might prepare my Krug x Onion pairing so my guest could not only be inspired by the elegance, structure, and spice of Krug Rosé, but also experience the crispy, fresh, and spicy side of the onion in my risotto. 我以库克香槟搭配洋葱，除了它 的典雅、结构和香气让宾客喜出 望外，还可在我特制的炖饭中尝 到洋葱的爽脆、新鲜和辛辣。”

stars ascending

|

TK |

89

SIMON DAVIES I L I X R C R E AT I V E , C H I C A G O , I LL I N O I S , U S A I L I X R C R EAT I V E ， 芝 加 哥 ， 伊 利 诺 伊 州 ， 美 国

“

I am thrilled to be participating in this adventure and curious to learn more about how Krug Champagnes are crafted. I would like to learn insights into the blending decisions and share a conversation about food in general, as well as about pairings with Krug, just like we had in India during this trip.

我很高兴参与这次的旅程，也很想探究库克香槟是如 何酿制的，想了解混酿时的决策过程，并继续像我们 在印度之旅时那样分享库克香槟的餐酒搭配。”

S TA R T E R

Crab and Onion, an Homage to India 印度风味洋葱螃蟹

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Grande Cuvée 168ème Édition 第 168 版库克陈年香槟 PA I R I N G N OT E S

The caramelized butter contrasts with the Champagne’s freshness, while the delicate negi notes tie in the Krug Grande Cuvée with brunoise pickled onion. The subtle saline persistence of the crab elongates its finish. The garam masala accentuates the dish, enhancing every sip with enticing Indian aromatics. 焦化黄油与香槟的清新形成强烈对比，而 细致的葱香与切成細丁的腌洋葱却与这支 香槟相配。螃蟹微妙的咸味使余韵无穷， 印度香料使料理风味更加充满惊喜，迷人 的印度香味升华了库克香槟的醇和。

90

|

TK |

stars ascending

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

S TA R T E R

Lamb Tripe, Braised Madras Onion 羊肚，炖马德拉斯洋葱

C H A M PA G N E

Krug Rosé 24ème Édition PA I R I N G N OT E S

In Kashmir where I grew up, we have some of the best sheep in the area, and I wanted to make something from my mother’s kitchen. The onions give the lamb a delightful sweetness and the subtle use of spice is just enough to accentuate the palate of Krug Rosé. 我长大的喀什米尔拥有该区最好的羊只，我总想在母亲的厨房里做点 什么。洋葱赋予羊肉完美的甜味，巧妙地使用一些香料就足以突显库 克粉红香槟的口感。

PRATEEK SADHU MASQUE, MUMBAI, INDIA MASQUE，孟买，印度

WHITE DOG (5)

“

In New York in 2010, I was a junior-level chef working – and nibbling – on a course of snails with puff pastry when my boss approached me and asked if I had ever tasted Krug Rosé. I still recall the flavors, like a bowl of fruit with an elegant finish on my palate.

2010年时我在纽约，还只是名初级糕点师，老板问我有没有品尝过库克粉红香槟。时至 今日，我仍然记得当时的味道，就像一碗水果在我的味蕾上留下优雅的尾韵。”

stars ascending

|

TK |

91

Krug Ambassade Chefs explore the origins of onions and their boundless potential for pairing with Krug Champagnes. 库克大使厨師探索洋葱 的起源，及其与库克香 槟搭配的无限潜力。

92

|

TK |

stars ascending

INTRIGUING INGREDIENTS

stars ascending

|

TK |

93

PRESENTED BY SPIEGELAU

The Masters’ Choice 具 有 五 百 年 历 史 的 Spiegelau 是 世 界 首 屈 一 指的品牌酒具制造商，原本是专为欧洲皇室 Spiegelau is among the world’s great glassmakers. In days past, it crafted 宫廷制造精美镜子的玻璃工厂，如今致力于 the finest mirrors for the royal courts and opulent residences of Europe, 为全球高档餐厅生产坚固耐用又优雅高贵的 and today it is dedicated to creating elegant yet sturdy glassware for lead水晶酒器。经过数世纪的雕琢，声名远播的 ing restaurants around the globe. Sophisticated and functional, super-light and durable, Spiegelau’s glittering products are a study in brilliance and Spiegelau 以精湛工艺制造的闪亮器皿品质优 异、与众不同，成为世界各地厨艺大师及品鉴 creativity that express expert craftsmanship honed over the centuries. 家争相追求的产品。 And now Spiegelau has embarked on a collaboration with BY 现在，Spiegelau 与全球十三 an exceptional group of thirteen culinary masters, matching JOHNATHAN SIU 位厨艺大师携手，共同探索其追 its philosophy of excellence with the unique personalities and 求卓越的品牌哲学，并分享他们 convictions of these acclaimed chefs and connoisseurs. 独一无二的信念。发起此计画的是知名设计师 The project’s creative director is renowned designer Desmond Chang, 张聪，他也是 Spiegelau 在香港、澳门和内地 who is also CEO of Inhesion Group, sole partner of Speigelau in Hong 的唯一合伙公司希信集团的行政总裁。当被问 Kong, Macau, and Mainland China. “I was not thinking about chefs,” says 及促成这次合作的原因，他表示 ： 「我并没有 Chang of the genesis of the collaboration. “I was thinking about artists . 刻意要找厨师，我一心想要找寻艺术家，只是 I think Spiegelau shares common values with these artists who happen 这些与 Spiegelau 有着相同理念的艺术家都恰 to be either professional chefs or curators of a cuisine. They all are crazy 巧是大厨或美食家。他们是为美而生的完美主 about the beauty of things. They are perfectionists. They want to always 义者，渴望在技术和美学方面都能完美无瑕。 」 try to be both technically perfect and also aesthetically perfect.”

WITH MORE THAN FIVE HUNDRED YEARS of history to its name,

94

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

Famed glassmaker Spiegelau unites with a constellation of culinary stars to share its philosophy of excellence with the world.

Chang believes that for them, as for Spiegelau, fine drinkware is about more than simply good looks or presentation – it is about enhancing the palate of the drink to greater heights, bringing the subtleties and nuances of aroma and flavor to the fore. Choosing the perfect glass is the beginning of the culinary journey, the first step toward experiencing the rich and delightful discoveries of an extraordinary meal.

“Spiegelau is the master of making glasses,” says Chang. “It is technically so superior, just like my friends who are represented in this campaign. And because they are technically so good from a culinary angle, they have also become masters in their own area.”

In their ongoing pursuit of quality, Spiegelau and these virtuosos of the culinary world have aligned to create new and exciting dining adventures that display the depth and breadth of their respective crafts. Through the gleaming medium of Spiegelau glassware, each of these luminaries has his own story to tell and his own distinctive vision to communicate to the world.

And in the spirit of its illustrious heritage, Spiegelau’s signature glassware continues to be the best for those who are themselves the very best.

张聪认为对他们及 Spiegelau 而言，高级 酒杯不仅是为了美观，而是为了将美酒的口感 提升至更高的层次，更要充分展现酒的香气与 味道的细微之处。美食之旅从选择最顶级的酒 杯开始，踏出这第一步，一顿丰盛、愉悦的完 美飨宴便将徐徐展开。 他说 ： 「Spiegelau 拥有顶尖的玻璃制造 技术，正如这些参与合作的朋友们，他们的 烹饪技艺精湛，也因此成为了自己领域内的 大师。 」

Spiegelau 与一众同样品质至上的厨艺大 师有着一致的目标，就是创造前所未有、扣人 心弦的体验，与世人共享玻璃工艺与烹调技艺 的深度与广度。他们将透过 Spiegelau 耀眼夺 目的玻璃器皿，细诉自己的故事，并向世界呈 献心中的愿景。 秉承其卓越工艺和辉煌传统，Spiegelau 赫赫有名的招牌酒具将继续成为大师级专家最 顶级的选择。 STARS ASCENDING | TK |

95

The Only Ch oice for a Master

Umberto Bombana 8 ½ OT TO E M E Z ZO B O M B A N A , H O N G KO N G

A D I N A P R E S T I G E CO L L EC T I O N

Timeless elegance and perennial joy mark celebrated chef Umberto Bombana’s simple yet refined culinary style that combines the traditional with boundless innovation. As is evident at his Michelinstar restaurants, Chef Bombana’s eye for quality is impeccable, and his choice of the Adina Prestige Collection is a testimony to its enduring beauty. Combining a traditional tulip shape with modern technology, the enduring sensation from this collection is one of grace without transience, of a classic that is here to stay – much like the cooking from this master chef. 高雅历久弥新，喜悦常年永驻。名厨 Umberto Bombana 的料理风 格简单却精炼，融合传统和创新。从他获得米其林星级殊荣的 Otto

e Mezzo 系列餐厅，可见他对高品质的眼光无懈可击，而他选择的 ADINA PRESTIGE 系列，便是历经时间淬炼的优美与典雅的最佳见证。 此系列采用现代技术打造经典的郁金香造型杯身，水晶边缘以激光 精切与当代铸模技艺达至光滑细致。一如 Umberto Bombana 的料理， 散发着迷人的舒适氛围，值得细细品味。

96

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

N O V O CO L L EC T I O N

V E A A N D W I N G , H O N G KO N G

The mastermind behind Michelin-starred VEA Restaurant & Lounge is the foremost proponent of an imaginative fusion of two of the world’s most beloved culinary traditions, Chinese and French. And at his acclaimed new restaurant, Wing, he expresses his very personal reinterpretations of time-honored Chinese favorites. While this maestro transforms classic cuisines into new forms, the wine glasses of the NOVO Collection take the classical concept of the golden ratio as the basis for their exquisite curves that allow the contents to breathe to the fullest, achieving a perfect union of flavor, finish, and aroma.

掌管米其林一星餐厅 VEA 的郑永麒主厨以先 驱之姿结合世界两大传统菜系，运用西式烹 饪技术打造奢华的中式菜肴。他在全新开幕 的中餐厅「永」中，以独特的个人巧思重新 诠释传统中菜。郑主厨以两种菜式的结合自 立新格，而 NOVO 系列则以经典的黄金比例 概念作为其精致弧线杯身的根基，盛装的酒 品与空气得以充分接触，呈献完美的风味、 尾韵与香气。

The Chinese × French Connection

Vicky Cheng

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

97

i s k e y Conn h W d e n h e i T r oisseu r’s Fondest F 98

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

Howard Cai H O W A R D ’ S G O U R M E T R E S TA U R A N T, H O N G KO N G

W I L L S B E R G E R A N N I V E R S A R Y CO L L EC T I O N As inclusive as it is adventurous, Howard Cai’s gastronomic vision is one for which every new experience reveals untraveled worlds for the connoisseur to explore. And for Chef Cai, whiskey is especially symbolic of this, a pleasure to be savored, its rich notes and crisp finish teased out with the right glass – the whiskey glass of Spiegelau’s exquisite Willsberger Anniversary Collection.

Designed by the legendary Johann Willsberger, each masterful piece in the collection catches the eye with handsome lines and brings out the nuances of its contents with supreme delicacy.

蔡昊的美食观富有冒险精神，每一次新体 验都打开了一扇通往未知领域的门。充满 品酩乐趣的威士忌是他探索未知的最佳例 子，而威士忌的厚实果香与爽脆尾韵，则 需要藉由适合的酒杯慢慢梳理。Spiegelau 的 Willsberger Anniversary 系列威士忌酒杯 便是蔡昊的选择。此系列由知名摄影大师

Johann Willsberger 亲自设计，匠心独运的作 品线条结实健美，杯身优雅却实用，灵巧又 硬朗，每一只酒杯都能灵敏巧妙地带出内容 物的幽微差异。

Th e Irres istible Romance of th e

Gla s

s

Julien Royer ODET TE, SINGAPORE

N O V O CO L L EC T I O N Innovative and ingenious, Chef Julien Royer has seen a meteoric rise to stardom, with his Odette ranking No. 2 among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2021 on top of its three Michelin stars. A man of daringly unconventional tastes, Royer selects Spiegelau’s NOVO Collection as his favorite. The avant-garde lines of the collection convey abundance and luxury, reflecting Royer’s culinary philosophy. Within the crystal contours of the NOVO Collection glasses, the fine wines paired by the chef are allowed to breathe, giving full scope to their complex flavors and aromas. 手法创新巧妙的厨师 Julien Royer，摘星成名之路璀璨而迅速。他创 办的 Odette 餐厅不仅获得米其林三星荣誉，更高踞 2021 年亚洲 50 最佳餐厅的第二名。品味不落窠臼的 Julien Royer 选择 Spiegelau 的 NOVO 系列为他的最爱。此系列酒杯大气而奢华，恰如其分地反映 出他的料理哲学。在 NOVO 系列酒杯晶莹剔透的杯缘里，名厨精选 佳酿得以真正呼吸，让繁复的香气与风味充分自我展现。 STARS ASCENDING | TK |

99

Eas t and West

gB ot h

E m b r a ci n

Nicolas Le Bec B I S T R O 321 V I L L A L E B EC , S H A N G H A I

A U T H E N T I S & H Y B R I D CO L L EC T I O N S

With a background in southern French food as well as the multifarious cuisine of Shanghai, Chef Nicolas Le Bec bestrides continents and cultures.

His Michelin-starred Bistro 321 Villa Le Bec synthesizes the very best of East and West with consummate skill.

Reflecting this, Chef Le Bec chooses two Spiegelau collections. AUTHENTIS wineglasses let the bouquet of a wine breathe into fullness as soon as it reaches the lips. And the specialized processes used in creating the HYBRID Collection, designed in conjunction with the legendary Johann Willsberger, allow its sophisticated forms to shine. 从南法烹调技艺，到五花八门的上海 菜，名厨 Nicolas Le Bec 悠游于欧亚大 陆与东西文化之间。他以高超厨艺揉和 东西方传统，其米其林星级餐厅 Bistro

321 VILLA LE BEC 藉着中西兼容的优势 站稳一席之地。他选择了 Spiegelau 的 其中两个系列作品，恰好反映出他与众 不同的料理技艺。AUTHENTIS 系列酒杯 能带出葡萄酒的芬芳与醇香，让酒液在 沾上饮者嘴唇后能充分呼吸。HYBRID 系列则是与知名美食摄影大师 Johann

Willsberger 共同设计的作品，经过严谨 专业的制造流程，让繁复细腻的酒杯形 体大放异彩。

100

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

BURNT ENDS, SINGAPORE

A U T H E N T I S C A S U A L CO L L EC T I O N

Australian chef David Pynt is a master of the flame, creating dishes that exult with incredible flavor. At his Michelin-starred Burnt Ends, No. 5 among Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants in 2020, he captures the primal joy of savoring good food. For him, Spiegelau’s AUTHENTIS Casual glasses capture the untamed and triumphant spirit of his cooking. Their unusual aesthetic feature of a missing stem disarms the viewer, engendering an intimacy between drinker and drink. And their astonishing durability and instantly recognizable silhouette make them favorites of chefs and connoisseurs alike. 澳籍主厨 David Pynt 是烈焰大师，运用炙烤等手 法精制出风味无可比拟的料理。他为食客呈献品尝 美食最根本的喜悦，其餐厅 Burnt Ends 于 2020 年 获米其林一星与亚洲 50 最佳餐厅第 5 名的肯定。

Inner Fire, Outer Glory

David Pynt

David Pynt 认为 Spiegelau 的 AUTHENTIS CASUAL 系列与他料理中自然而欢腾的精髓不谋而合。该款 酒杯去除了杯茎，让品酒饕客与酒之间也产生更加 紧密的连结。这款酒杯的轮廓独树一格， 实用性高， 多位主厨与行家皆爱不释手。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

101

Stefano Bacchelli & Enrico Guarnieri D A V I T TO R I O , S H A N G H A I

At celebrated Da Vittorio, the multitalented minds of Chef Stefano Bacchelli and Restaurant Manager Enrico Guarnieri join forces with characteristic Italian vivacity to create a culinary experience greater than the sum of its parts. The pair’s gastronomic vision matches exquisite cuisine with rich décor, impeccable tableware, and punctilious service. Their glasses of choice are those of Spiegelau’s Renaissance Collection, finely crafted using the nineteenthcentury pantograph technique that highlights the delicate interplay of light and shadow on the luxuriously engraved and decorated surfaces in homage to the chiaroscuro of Italian Renaissance painting. 上海备受称道的餐厅 Da Vittorio 的主厨 Stefano Bacchelli 与餐厅经理 Enrico Guarnieri 秉持意式的蓬勃朝气，携手营造出一加一大于二的餐饮体验。 Da Vittorio 不仅菜肴精致、装潢华美、服务周到，餐具更是完美无瑕。 两人选择了 Spiegelau 的 Renaissance 系列酒杯，此系列工艺精 湛，以十九世纪的比例缩放绘图技巧镌刻表面图纹，强化光 线的明暗交互，奢华地 向意大利文艺复兴时 期绘画的明暗对 照法致敬。

R E N A I SS A N C E CO L L EC T I O N

102

s s a i n a c n e e M R s e ’ n o i r o t t i V a D |

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

n i e s i u C g n a y i a u H w e Toward a N

Zhu Jun T H E H U T, S H A N G H A I

S P I EG E L A U G L A SS WA R E

Combining traditional techniques with breathtaking innovation, Chef Zhu Jun has led a virtual one-man revolution in the Huaiyang tradition, vastly expanding the array of flavors and aromas to be explored in his varied cuisine. The chef’s culinary philosophy holds that it is through the tableware, the presentation, and the complexities of taste and texture that one may reach the full potential of the dining experience.

This approach is reflected in his appreciation of Spiegelau’s immense range of glassware, with its power to raise his reimagined dishes to greater heights and inspire deeper responses to his creations. 主厨朱俊善于结合传统烹调技 巧与令人叹为观止的创意，凭 一己之力掀起了一场淮扬菜革 命。这位米其林星厨重视多元 与实验，努力拓展厨艺，深化 各种味道与香气，呈现多采多 姿的菜肴。在朱俊的料理哲 学中，唯有透过餐具、摆盘、 味道与口感的层次，才能达 到极致的深度、广度与高度。 这使他十分珍视形形色色的

Spiegelau 无铅水晶玻璃 杯，因为每一只酒杯都 有潜力将他重新演绎 的菜肴提升至更高 境界，使享用者对 料理产生更深刻 的情绪共鸣。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

103

wm

A Chef, a

Sh o

a

a , n

h il o s o phe P a nd

Sun Kim M E TA R E S TA U R A N T, SINGAPORE

S P I EG E L A U G L A SS WA R E

Chef Sun Kim’s many talents blend to create unique KoreanFrench dishes at his oneMichelin-starred Meta. His exceptional creations, visual feasts that delight the senses with brilliant flavor palettes and presentations, touch upon a Confucian harmony and balance that have made him one of Asia’s contemporary greats. Three Spiegelau collections are needed to disclose his full range: The Hybrid Collection features a sophisticated form and ultimate craftsmanship. The Elegance Collection is a classic made new through exquisite intaglio workmanship. The Salute Collection combines functionality and flair that grandly elevate the contents of each elegant glass.

Sun Kim 主厨才华洋溢，于米其林一星餐厅 Meta 打造独特的韩法料理。他的菜肴不只挑 动味蕾，每一道菜的配色与摆设皆经精心设 计。他对于儒家思想有着深刻的见解，料理风 格流露出和谐、互敬的气度，获推称为亚洲当 代最杰出的主厨之一。Sun Kim 选用了三款 Spiegelau 系列酒杯搭配他的菜肴，外型精 致的 HYBRID 系列如实呈献 Spiegelau 的顶 尖工匠技艺，Elegance 系列透过精良的工 艺为经典酒杯带来新风貌，而 Salute 系 列结合了实用性与亮丽风格，隐约的豪 奢感使品饮享受加倍升华。

U LT R AV I O L E T BY P A U L P A I R E T, SHANGHAI

At his multisensory three-Michelin-star restaurant, culinary wizard Paul Pairet understands that the art of gastronomy can give wonder to the world.

The experience of dining, including food, setting, ambience, and tools, are seen as a Gesamtkunstwerk. Everything is at the disposal of the chef and every single element must be harmonized to create the ultimate effect. For this exacting chef-owner, the glittering glasses of the Highline Collection are a reflection of his approach.

Each beautiful blown-glass piece illustrates not only Paul Pairet’s commitment to his holistic culinary philosophy but also the virtuoso craftsmanship of Spiegelau.

a nd

H I G H L I N E / H A N D M A D E CO L L EC T I O N

W ses the The Wizard Choo

Paul Pairet

上海米其林三星多重感官沉浸式 餐厅 Ultraviolet 主厨 Paul Pairet 认 为料理让世界充满了魔法。没有人比 这个厨艺鬼才更深谙餐饮的体验了 ：场 景、环境、餐具及食物，缺一不可，如同一件整体 艺术作品 (Gesamtkunstwerk)，每一项元素都必须彼 此结合，才能提升饮食体验，使之圆满。光彩夺目的 HIGHLINE / 手工系列酒杯，体现了这位餐厅主厨兼创 办人的料理魔法。此系列每一只人工吹制的美丽酒杯， 不仅述说着 Paul Pairet 对自己烹调理念的承诺，更是 Spiegelau 精湛工艺的完美演绎。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

105

A Chinese Classic Made Timeless

Yu Bin L A V I L L A R E S TA U R A N T, HANGZHOU, CHINA

B A I J I U G L A SS

The interplay between China’s cultural heritage and his own inspired innovation drives Chef Yu Bin’s creativity ever onward.

This pioneering founder of the New Jiangnan style always returns to the classics, constantly refining them to create novel works of culinary art. It is his reverence for the profound beauty of the past that inspires his admiration for Spiegelau’s handsome Bai Jiu Glass.

Specially designed to satisfy Chinese sensibilities, it transforms an age-old concept with graceful modern lines, enhancing the enjoyment of Chinese spirits at their best. 中国深厚的文化底蕴与以此为灵感激发的创新，赋予俞斌源源不绝 的创造力。身为江南创意菜创始人，他提炼古典，演绎出举世无双 的餐饮艺术。Spiegelau 典雅白酒杯以古老的文化为本，融入时尚美 学，创造出高贵庄严的作品，让饮者细品中式烈酒的顶级风味。

S É Z A N N E , TO K YO

From the Depths to

Daniel Calvert

ar the St s

W I L L S B E R G E R A N N I V E R S A R Y & R E N A I SS A N C E CO L L EC T I O N S

With skills cultivated at famed restaurants like Per Se in New York and three-Michelin-star Epicure at Le Bristol Hotel in Paris, award-winning Chef Daniel Calvert is a master of fine French cuisine. The former chef of neoParisian bistro Belon in Hong Kong has won acclaim through his meticulousness in execution and rigorous attention to technique. The glasses of the Willsberger Anniversary Collection, with their minimalist lines, reflect his philosophy of straightforwardness and quality, and the classic contours of Spiegelau’s Renaissance Collection beautifully resonate with his artistry. 曾在纽约的 Per Se、巴黎 Le Bristol 酒店的米其林三星餐厅 Epicure 及香港的新派巴黎格调餐馆 Belon 精进厨艺，Daniel

Calvert 主厨是位名符其实的法式料理大师。他意志坚韧且对 技法一丝不苟，因而获奖无数，成就不凡的资历。Willsberger Anniversary 系列的极简抽象特色反映了 Daniel Calvert 直接明确 又追求高品质的风格，与他精致的菜肴形成绝配。Renaissance 系列酒杯外型复古，杯上的传统雕花工艺更是精湛无比，与

Daniel Calvert 的创作一样 ：简约中见传统。 STARS ASCENDING | TK |

107

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Chef Fabian Altabert (left) and Daniele Amorese (right)

108

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

时势造新意

accent on creativity At Rosewood Hong Kong, two F&B professionals have turned the challenges of the global pandemic into opportunities for growth and positive change.

BY LUCY MORGAN

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY SAMANTHA SIN

UNCERTAINT Y AND RESTRICTIONS as a result of COVID-19 have been tough on the hospitality industry, both locally and around the world. Constantly changing conditions have forced it to repeatedly reinvent itself in order to keep up, and Rosewood Hong Kong has become an industry leader in finding imaginative solutions.

When the pandemic hit, Daniele Amorese, who is executive assistant manager of food and beverage for Rosewood Hong Kong, overseeing a team of more than two hundred eighty at ten restaurants and bars, responded with a pioneering idea. By promoting “Rosewood on the Move” catering delivery to all zones of Hong Kong, he made Rosewood the first and only luxury hotel in the city to offer this service.

“We needed to react fast,” he says, “and to bring in revenue while keeping our staff employed and staying relevant in the industry. We started ‘Rosewood on the Move’ right at the beginning of the pandemic and it was a huge success. We found a key delivery partner – Deliveroo – and requested delivery to remote areas, with advance ordering, as well as to easily accessible parts of the city.

We insisted on delivering takeaway with the stars ascending

|

TK |

109

FEATURE

“You learn something new, and that’s the fun part of being a chef.

每趟旅程都能习得新知，这就 是作为厨师的乐趣所在。” Fabian Altabert

same high standard that our guests could savor in our restaurants. And although initially we encountered lots of challenges, from packaging to logistics, we finally became the experts and made it a successful business venture, thanks to the support of specialists throughout the process.”

T h e c r i s i s i n s p i re d Fa b i a n A l t a b e r t , Rosewood’s regional director of culinary, to upgrade an essential skill set. In his pre-COVID role managing a team of more than three hundred, he was always on the move from place to place, supporting and coaching the Rosewood culinary teams in the region. “I enjoy traveling a lot, because every journey is an exploration of different cultures and flavors,” he says. “You learn something new, and that’s the fun part of being a chef.”

When borders closed, Altabert needed to adapt in order to be able to continue providing essential support to colleagues across the region.

“As chefs, we’re always in the kitchen cooking and rarely use communications tech, so it was a real learning experience for me. But thanks to the technology, I was able to stay connected with other chefs working at other properties via FaceTime, Teams, Skype, and WeChat, to name a few. We were able to share menus, exchange ideas, and work on business plans together before sharing with our senior management.

This knowledge exchange and working together as a team helps us create better experiences for our guests, ensuring that quality is always up to the highest Rosewood standard.”

110

|

TK |

stars ascending

新冠疫情所导致的不确定性及限制，对全球的旅 游酒店业带来沉重影响。变化莫测的时势驱使业 者不断革新，方能跟上步伐，而香港瑰丽酒店率 先找到创新的应变方法，成为业界先驱。 担任瑰丽酒店餐饮部执行副经理的 Daniele Amorese 领导旗下十家餐厅的超过 280 人。疫 情来袭时，他首创为香港全区提供餐饮外送服务， 让瑰丽酒店成为香港第一且唯一一家供应外送服 务的奢华酒店。 他说 ： 「我们必须快速应对，以创造收入来 保障员工的就业，因此我们在疫情刚开始时，便 ，获 推出『Rosewood on the Move 美食速递』 得广大回响。Deliveroo 是我们重要的外送合作 伙伴，不论远近，他们都会将提前预订的餐点送 达。我们坚持外送的食物都必须达到与堂食一样 的高水准，虽然在包装和运送方面遇到了不少困 难，但有幸得到专家的指导令此业务取得成功， 而且过程中我们也渐渐得心应手。 」 这次危机也启发了瑰丽酒店的区域厨艺总 监 Fabian Altabert 学习新的技能。在新冠疫情 发生前，他管理超过 300 人的团队，总是四处 奔波，指导各地的瑰丽厨艺团队。他说 ： 「我非 常喜欢旅行，因为每趟旅程都能探索不同文化 和风味，习得新知，这就是作为厨师的乐趣所 在。 」 当通关受限时，Fabian 需要作出调整，才 能继续为工作伙伴提供必要的协助。他说 ： 「厨 师总是在厨房埋头工作，很少使用通讯科技，所 以我真的要多加学习。多亏现今的科技，我可以 用 FaceTime、Teams、Skype 和 微 信 等 方 式 与 其他酒店的厨师保持联系，分享菜单、交流想法 并共同订定计划，再分享给管理层。这样的知识 交流和团队合作有助于为宾客创造更好的体验， 确保我们能维持瑰丽的最高品质。 」

MOVERS AND SHAKERS

Chef Fabian Altabert (right) and Daniele Amorese (left) are working on an exciting project. Blu House, a contemporary, Italian, all-day culinary experience at Rosewood Hong Kong is slated to open in the second quarter of 2022.

Fabian（图右）和Daniele（图左）正携手合作，打造将于 明年第二季开业、带来当代意大利餐饮体验的Blu House餐厅。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

111

112

|

TK |

stars ascending

DESIGN

黄

•

金

•

纯

•

酿

LIQUID GOLD GORDON & MACPHAIL UNVEILS A HISTORIC SINGLE MALT.

Sir David Adjaye OBE

stars ascending

|

TK |

113

“Oak is a primary material, produced from the planet. I appreciate its preciousness as an integral part of the whisky-making process. I wanted to create a design that pays tribute to the role oak plays in transforming this liquid into an elixir with almost magical properties. 橡木是来自大自然的原材料，由它制成的橡木桶是威士忌酿制过程中不可或缺的一部分。 橡木将酒体转化为黄金纯酿，我希望透过设计向它致敬。”

SIR DAVID ADJAYE, OBE

114

|

TK |

stars ascending

1940 年 2 月 3 日，在苏格兰埃尔金的一个安静角落 里，George Urquhart 和 父 亲 John Urquhart 在 格 兰 利威酒厂以 Gordon & MacPhail 340 号橡木桶中的 烈酒，在威士忌的历史上写下了不可撼动的浓重一 笔。 这个历史性的时刻在席卷欧洲的第二次世界大 战期间发生，当时苏格兰的酿酒厂纷纷提前释出威 士忌，以加快销售速度来维持生意，这意味着酿酒 厂选择了将威士忌混合，而不是保存单一麦芽威士 忌。 这位被称为「单一苏格兰麦芽之父」的 George Urquhart 有 着 独 特 的 愿 景， 希 望 将 威 士 忌 陈 酿 至 木 桶 和 烈 酒 完 整 融 合， 达 到 最 佳 品 质。Gordon & MacPhail 荣 誉 总 监 暨 家 族 第 四 代 成 员 Stephen 「当所有人都将注意力转向混合威士忌时， Rankin 说： 他却让单一麦芽威士忌的琥珀色光芒发出夺目的光 彩。他拥有非凡的远见，早就意识到有朝一日，装 在 340 号橡木桶中的威士忌会变得独一无二。事实 证明，他的确是对的。 」 就在正好是八十年后的 2020 年 2 月 3 日，酒

COURTESY OF GORDON & MACPHAIL (3 + PRECEDING PAGE)

IN A QUIE T CORNER OF ELGIN, SCOTLAND, whisky history was made on February 3, 1940, when George Urquhart and his father, John, of bottler Gordon & MacPhail, laid down a spirit from the Glenlivet Distillery in Cask 340.

The momentous event took place during the depths of the Second World War, when distilleries in Scotland managed to keep themselves in business by releasing whisky earlier to sell quicker, which meant blending whiskies rather than preserving single malts.

Known as the “father of single malt Scotch whisky,” George Urquhart had the unique vision of maturing whisky until cask and spirit melded to achieve the highest quality. “He kept the amber light of single malts alive, when everyone else had turned their attention to blends,” says Gordon & MacPhail’s Director of Prestige Stephen Rankin, a member of the fourth generation of the familyowned company. “He had the extraordinary foresight to realize that one day, what was contained in Cask 340 would become tremendous – and he was absolutely right.”

That one day arrived exactly eighty years later, on February 3, 2020, when it was decided to bottle Cask 340’s liquid gold into 250 decanters. Following its unveiling in London in September, Decanter

DESIGN

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

115

While similar, no two decanters are exactly the same, reflecting the complexity of the process and its organic nature.

No. 1 would be auctioned at Sotheby’s Hong Kong on October 7, 2021, with the remaining 249 decanters available for purchase globally.

Dubbed Gordon & MacPhail Generations 80 Years Old from Glenlivet Distillery, the release brings an auction estimate of £80,000 to £140,000 (HKD800,000 to HKD1.4m). It is presented in a stunning decanter and a remarkable oak case from internationally acclaimed architect and designer Sir David Adjaye OBE, who was commissioned to create an encasement based on the theme of “Artistry in Oak” – an expression aptly encapsulating Sir David’s architectural work and Gordon & MacPhail’s heritage. The lot is offered with a framed end from the original cask and a lithograph of the original concept drawings signed by Sir David.

Proceeds from the sale will be donated to a local Scottish charity, Trees for Life, whose mission is to “rewild” the Caledonian forest. “Each year, the Trees for Life nursery grows from seed a hundred thousand rare and native trees, including oaks,” says Gordon & MacPhail’s Managing Director Ewen Mackintosh. “It’s fitting that this whisky will provide a legacy for all, one that will last for generations.”

116

|

TK |

stars ascending

厂决定将 340 号橡木桶内的液态黄金装到 250 个酒 瓶之中。继今年 9 月在伦敦首次揭幕后，香港苏富 比也在 2021 年 10 月 7 日进行 1 号酒瓶的拍卖，而 其余 249 个酒瓶亦将开放供全球买家购买。 这 瓶 Gordon & MacPhail 80 年 陈 酿 的 拍 卖 估 。这 价 为 8 万 至 14 万 英 镑（80 万 至 140 万 港 元 ） 瑰酿由国际知名建筑师兼设计师 David Adjaye OBE 爵 士 特 别 制 作 的 酒 瓶 和 橡 木 盒 盛 装， 以「 橡 木 之 艺 (Artistry in Oak)」为主题，巧妙地融合了 David Adjaye OBE 爵士的建筑精神和 Gordon & MacPhail 的传奇经典。该拍卖品将包括装载这款威士忌 80 年 的 340 号酒桶桶头木板，并已装裱 ；以及仅此一版 的 David Adjaye OBE 爵士概念素描草图签名版画。 这次拍卖所得将捐赠给苏格兰当地的慈善机构 －生命之树 (Trees for Life)，其使命是复育苏格兰 的原生森林。Gordon & MacPhail 董事总经理 Ewen 「在生命之树的育苗室里，每年从 Mackintosh 说 ： 种子开始孕育而成的原生树木达 10 万株，其中也包 含橡树。这款威士忌将恰如其分地为所有人留下深 远影响，并持续几个世代。 」

DESIGN

尽管外型相似，但没有两个酒瓶是完全相同的，

COURTESY OF GORDON & MACPHAIL (5)

这反映了手工制作过程的复杂度及其独一无二。

The Gordon & MacPhail Generations 80 Years Old decanter and oak pavilion will be exhibited publicly at Sotheby’s historic galleries on New Bond Street in London as well as at Sotheby’s Upper East Side headquarters in New York and at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre as part of the company’s 2021 Hong Kong Autumn Sales Series preview.

Tasting Kitchen ( TK) was fortunate enough to have a private tasting with Stephen Rankin and was astounded by the appearance, aroma, taste, and vitality of this unique expression, marveling at its deep caramel color and scents of almond, sandalwood, and beeswax leading into a palate of plum, smoky lapsang souchong tea, and oloroso sherry. “That this whisky – the oldest single malt Scotch ever bottled – remains so full of vibrant flavor, with a strength of 44.9 percent ABV, is testimony to the knowledge handed down over successive generations of my family,” says Rankin.

Gordon & MacPhail, established by John Alexander MacPhail and James Gordon in Elgin in 1895, is one of the oldest independent bottlers in existence, famed for possessing the industry’s largest collection of rare and old whisky casks. Following the retirement of MacPhail in 1915, John Urquhart joined the company. And then, when Gordon sadly

Gordon & MacPhail 80 年陈酿酒瓶和橡木 箱将在伦敦新庞德街上历史悠久的苏富比画廊、 纽约苏富比上东区总部和香港会议展览中心公开 展出，作为苏富比 2021 年香港秋季系列拍卖预 告的一部分。

Tasting Kitchen(TK) 有幸与 Stephen 进行了 一次私人品酒会，对它独特的酒色、香气、味道 和活力留下深刻印象，并惊叹于其深焦糖色泽、 杏仁、檀香及蜂蜡交叠出的香气，感受到轻盈甘 甜的梅子香、浓烈的正山小种红茶香和优雅圆润 的奥罗露索 (oloroso) 雪利酒风味交织而成的丰 「这款有史以来最古老 富口感。Stephen 补充道 ： 的单一麦芽苏格兰威士忌，至今仍充满活力，其 酒精浓度为 44.9%，是最能证明我们家族世代相 传的印记。 」

Gordon & MacPhail 由 John Alexander MacPhail 和 James Gordon 于 1895 年在苏格兰埃 尔金创立，是现存最古老的独立威士忌装瓶商之 一，以拥有业内最庞大的珍稀陈年威士忌酒桶系 列 而 闻 名。John Alexander MacPhail 于 1915 年 stars ascending

|

TK |

117

118

|

TK |

stars ascending

退 休 后，John Urquhart 加 入 了 公 司。 后 来，James Gordon 不幸逝世，John Alexander MacPhail 便聘请 了 John Urquhart 的儿子 George 加入。

John Urquhart 成 为 公 司 的 资 深 合 伙 人 后， 展 开了经理人业务，并在格兰利威等知名酿酒厂的特 「我相信 John 别许可下开始装瓶威士忌。Ewen 说 ：

Urquhart 两父子会喜欢 1 号酒瓶的设计，因为这是 在向他们的工艺和远见致敬。 」 「这是一段不可思议的旅程，是 Stephen 也说 ： 我家人的耐心和远见，造就这种非凡、可在未来数 十年间继续享用的珍稀陈酿。我们很荣幸与一家致 力于平衡和保护苏格兰森林生态的慈善机构，以及 与创造了纯粹艺术之美的 David Adjaye OBE 爵士合 作。我们对这一切都秉持着一贯的真诚，才得以成 就非凡。 」

COURTESY OF GORDON & MACPHAIL (5)

passed away shortly thereafter, MacPhail also hired Urquhart’s son George.

John Urquhart became a senior company partner and started the brokering side of the business as well as bottling whiskies under special license from renowned distilleries, such as Glenlivet. Of the No. 1 Decanter, Mackintosh remarks, “I’m sure John and George Urquhart would love the design. It pays tribute to their craft and vision.”

Adds Rankin, “It’s been an incredible journey. Because of the patience and foresight of my family, we have this truly extraordinary whisky to be enjoyed for decades to come. Also close to our hearts have been our partnership with a conservation charity that works to balance the ecology of some of Scotland’s most beautiful forests and our collaboration with Sir David, who has crafted something of sheer beauty and art.”

DESIGN

stars ascending

|

TK |

119

120

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

PRESENTED BY BROWN-FORMAN

品蕴极致

high spirits

PHOTOS WERE SHOT IN SHANGHAI AT TWO-MICHELIN-STAR L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

摄于上海的米其林两星餐厅 L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

A super-premium American whiskey is bottled in fine French crystal.

THE KENTUCKY DISTILLERY of famed bourbon producer Woodford Reserve is located in the lovely quaint town of Versailles, which was named for the French royal city. And it is believed that the whiskey known as bourbon was named for the noble family that reigned over France from 1589 until the Republic was proclaimed in 1792.

To celebrate such a French-inspired background, Woodford Reserve has joined forces with renowned French crystal maker Baccarat to create a uniquely luxurious product, Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition Whiskey. Complex, XO Cognac-finished Kentucky bourbon is contained in an exquisite Baccarat decanter specially designed and handmade by the legendary company’s skilled artisans.

Woodford Reserve’s Assistant Master Distiller Elizabeth McCall explains how the remarkable partnership came about: “A member of the Baccarat team, who is a fellow Kentuckian, heard about our concept of finishing Woodford Reserve’s complex Kentucky bourbon in select XO Cognac barrels.

He approached us about teaming up with Baccarat on this exciting new project, and since our bourbon was created to honor our French roots, we found it a perfect partnership.

Development of the crystal decanter soon began, marrying the world’s finest bourbon with the world’s finest crystal.

This stunning bottle further elevates our already luxurious whiskey.”

In finishing the delicate distillate, Master Distiller Chris Morris sourced the finest oak barrels, each of which had nurtured three seasons of premium XO Cognac. The nuanced

notes of Cognac and oak serve to highlight the dark fruit and spice aromas already expressed in the bourbon, adding a mellow layer of creamy caramel that softens and balances this sumptuous spirit.

The hand-blown decanter takes artisans five days to fashion. Its sleek silhouette evokes the shape of the classic Woodford Reserve bottle, and its fine polished surface is engraved in gold with the famed logos of Woodford Reserve and Baccarat. Elegant design and expert craftsmanship combine to convey a look of understated sophistication and refinement.

美国肯塔基州知名的 Woodford Reserve 波本酿酒厂位于美 丽雅致的凡尔赛镇，这是一个与法国皇家城市同名的小镇。 法国贵族波旁的家族自 1589 年起统治法国，直至 1792 年 改制共和政权为止。据传，波本威士忌得名于这一贵族。 为了彰显与法国的渊源，Woodford Reserve 与知名法 国水晶品牌 Baccarat 联手推出 Woodford Reserve Baccarat

Edition 威士忌。口感复杂并带有特级干邑尾韵的波本威士 忌，盛装于 Baccarat 职人设计、手工制作的精美酒瓶中， 成为独一无二的奢华新品。 关于两大品牌联手的缘由，Woodford Reserve 的助 「一位刚好来自肯塔 理酿酒师 Elizabeth McCall 娓娓道来 ： 基州的 Baccarat 员工知道了我们把波本酒装桶于特级干邑 木桶的构想，于是向我们洽询，并提出这个与 Baccarat 合 作的新企划。Woodford Reserve 的波本酒本来就是为了彰 显与法国的渊源，因此我们也觉得这是个很棒的合作机会。 我们很快就开始规划水晶酒瓶，以结合世界最好的波本酒 和水晶。这个令人惊艳的酒瓶将奢华的威士忌提升至更高 的层次。 」 stars ascending

|

TK |

121

PRESENTED BY BROWN-FORMAN

“This stunning bottle further elevates our already luxurious whiskey.

这个令人惊艳的酒瓶将奢华的威士忌提升至更高的层次。”

122

|

TK |

stars ascending

首席酿酒师 Chris Morris 精选已经过三季特级干邑洗礼的 波本酒中原有的深色水果与辛香料气息，并增添滑顺焦糖般的 醇厚层次，使它更为柔顺平衡。 酒 瓶 需 耗 时 五 天 手 工 吹 制， 柔 滑 雅 致 的 轮 廓 近 似

Woodford Reserve 的经典酒瓶，而光亮的表面以金色刻印着 Woodford Reserve 与 Baccarat 的知名商标，雅致的设计与精 湛的工艺低调地传达精炼和优雅。 品饮完毕后，闪耀亮眼的空瓶仍值得珍藏。Elizabeth 建议： 「行家可选择把其它佳酿保存于瓶中。我们推荐本酒庄的另一款 活福珍藏波本威士忌，也是世界顶级的酒品。 」

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition 威士忌纯粹的复杂风 味适合慢品回味，既可单饮，也可加冰块享用。若用于调制经 典的曼哈顿调酒，添加的甜苦艾酒与安格仕图拉苦味酒将更突 显橡木的清新、深色水果及辛香料风味。

Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition 威士忌在 Baccarat 的 水晶技艺加持下，以崭新的风格与优雅的姿态，将波本酒品饮 「奢侈品 体验提升至新境界，重新定义了奢华。Elizabeth 说 ： 的消费者追求限量、独家与新潮，而作为首个达到这个新境界 的美国烈酒品牌，Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition 威士忌 名符其实地打破了『水晶天花板』 。 」

PHOTOS WERE SHOT IN SHANGHAI AT TWO-MICHELIN-STAR L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

木桶，为琼浆玉液做最后的装桶。干邑与橡木的微妙风味引出

摄于上海的米其林两星餐厅 L’ATELIER DE JOËL ROBUCHON

Once empty, the container remains a dazzling keepsake. “While connoisseurs can reuse their Baccarat decanter for any fine libation of their choosing,” says McCall, “we recommend filling it with another of our offerings. Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey – the world’s finest – would be an excellent place to start.”

The exceptional flavor complexity of Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition is meant to be savored and lingered over, whether served straight or on ice. And the crisp oak, dark fruit, and subtle spice notes soar when highlighted by the sweet vermouth and Angostura bitters of a classic Manhattan.

Redefining indulgence, Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition raises the bourbon tasting experience to new heights with the added elements of style and grace brought by Baccarat’s expertise. “Luxury consumers want something that is limited, exclusive, and novel,” says McCall. “And as the first American spirit to step up to this level, Woodford Reserve Baccarat Edition Whiskey has truly broken the crystal ceiling.”

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

123

Romain Comte

WINE MASTER

识酒传香

informed and inspired A wine ambassador delivers a captivating education in the finest vintages of Bourgogne.

Romain Comte 是勃艮第葡萄酒公司在香港的 ROMAIN COMTE COMES from a family whose veins seem to run with 大使，他的家族与勃艮第有着深厚的渊源，相 Burgundy. It would be difficult to find a more passionate and knowledge信很难找到比这位亲切的法国人更热情、更渊 able wine expert than the affable Frenchman, who serves as ambassador 博的葡萄酒专家了。 for Hong Kong-based Burgundy Wine Company Ltd. 他的家族庄园「松露园」位于欧洲最出 His family’s estate, run by his father, Robert Comte, is La Truffière, 名的沃土，即勃艮第知名子产区伯 sitting in some of Europe’s most famed soil, namely, the com恩丘的普里尼蒙哈榭地区。这是由 mune of Puligny-Montrachet in Burgundy’s legendary Côte BY 他的父亲 Robert Comte 经营的庄 de Beaune. With an emphasis on chardonnay and pinot noir, CHRIS DWYER 园。Robert 以 霞 多 丽 和 黑 皮 诺 为 Robert crafts wines of sublime, understated balance that are • 主，酿造出极致完美又自然和谐的 keenly sought out by oenophiles around the globe.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 葡萄酒，受到全球行家的追捧。 Romain has been based in Hong Kong for more than a INGA BECKMANN Romain 已驻香港十多年，秉 decade, running a business with a clear and simple motto: “Top quality wines and great value for money.” This translates into labels from more than twenty estates spanning Burgundy from north to south and representing what he calls “real niche” wines.

At a recent salon dinner at Ocean Table, Comte shared some of the finest examples with an enthusiastic audience fortunate enough to have them paired with exceptional cuisine by Finnish chef Jaakko Sorsa. In addition to providing them with outstanding pairings, Comte also took diners on a journey to Burgundy through his evocation of its landscape, climate, and terroir as well as its history. The charming polymath, who holds a PhD in biology and was formerly a teacher of French in Melbourne, had the audience rapt with his animated presentation of the region’s wines.

He explained that although Burgundy boasts more than two thousand years of winemaking history, it was only in 2015 that UNESCO added the terroirs and vineyards known as climats to their World Heritage List.

While the region is home to some of the world’s most expensive wines, the sophistication and complexity also extend to labels less well-known than the legendary Romanée-Conti.

The dinner featured wines from across the compact, storied region, but two stood out in particular. First, a Domaine Pierre Damoy Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 2017 that paired beautifully with Sorsa’s

承「物超所值的顶级葡萄酒」这一简单明了的 经营理念。这理念展现于勃艮第从南到北二十 多个酒庄的产品中，标志出他所谓的「真正小 众」的葡萄酒。 最 近 在 Ocean Table 的 一 席 晚 宴 上， Romain 为兴致盎然的宾客介绍足以搭配芬兰 名厨 Jaakko Sorsa 美馔的顶级葡萄酒。他不仅 献上出色的餐酒搭配，还秉着对勃艮第景观、 气候、风土和历史的回忆，带领宾客踏上勃艮 第之旅。魅力十足的 Romain 学识渊博，拥有 生物学博士学位，还曾经在墨尔本教授法文。 宾客都不禁陶醉于他对当地葡萄酒的解说。 他解释道，虽然勃艮第已有两千多年的 酿酒历史，但直到 2015 年，联合国教科文组 织才将勃艮第葡萄酒产区的环境及风土特色列 入文化景观类别的世界遗产。该地区出产了不 少世界上最昂贵的葡萄酒，虽然未及罗曼尼 康帝那般名声显赫，但其精致度和复杂性仍令 人印象深刻。 晚宴的搭配酒款是选自小型且闻名的产 stars ascending

|

TK |

125

WINE MASTER

“It’s only four years old but already shows the potential, the approachable bouquets and aromas. Smell, appreciate – meditate!

短短四年已崭露头角。这款酒 的芬芳和酒香平易近人，值 得细闻、慢尝、醉于其中！”

区出产的葡萄酒，其中两款最为出色。 首先是 2017 年的皮耶达摩庄园香贝丹 贝日特级园，与 Jaakko 质朴却高级的莓 果巧克力完美搭配。正如 Romain 所言， Sophistication and complexity mark the wines of Burgundy 勃艮第葡萄酒以其精致和复杂度著称

这款酒具有一鸣惊人的潜力 ： 「以酒香的 复杂性而言，它可与罗曼尼 - 康帝相提 并论，这说法听似大胆，但在盲测中确 是如此。葡萄藤来自达摩家族三大产地， 已有近六十年的历史。他们种植了产量 极少的方皮诺，短短四年已崭露头角。

simple-sounding-but-sublime Berries and Chocolate. This is a wine, as Comte explained, with stratospheric possibilities: “In terms of aromatic complexity, it will be equal to Romanée-Conti itself. That’s a big statement, but on a blind tasting, totally true. These are vines from three big plots that the Damoy family owns, almost sixty years old. They planted pinot fin, which has a very low yield.

It’s only four years old but already shows the potential, the approachable bouquets and aromas. Smell, appreciate – meditate!”

Diners were next treated to two vintages of Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Hameau de Blagny. The first was the 2018, which matched perfectly with the grilled turbot from Fukuoka. A magnum of the 2015 was the ultimate way to finish alongside exceptional cheeses from Xavier Bourgon.

“These from Domaine Comtesse de Chérisey are true blue bloods – on the bottle is a real family coat of arms that is more than fifteen hundred years old. They’ve been in the top part of Puligny-Montrachet for two hundred years. The marly soil, full of clay and limestone, is overlooked by a forest, so you have nice temperature regulation, especially in summertime. This is a rising star, and the elevation of four hundred meters provides a beautiful freshness and balance to these wines.”

In Hong Kong and Macau, Comte sells these very special vintages and those from other estates direct to customers that include hotels, bars, restaurants, clubhouses, and a handful of very lucky private clients. He also hosts workshops, master classes, and wine tastings, where participants are guaranteed to leave hugely informed about and inspired by France’s famed region of Burgundy.

126

|

TK |

stars ascending

这款酒的芬芳和酒香平易近人，值得细 闻、慢尝、醉于其中！」 宾客接着品尝了两支不同年份的贝 纳德切里西酒庄普里尼蒙哈榭布拉尼哈 慕园一级园葡萄酒。福冈的烤大菱鲆与

2018 年的相得益彰，另一支 2015 年 1.5 升则与泽维尔勃艮第奶酪是天作之合。 「来自贝纳德切里西酒庄的 Romain 称 ： 葡萄酒是真正的贵族，瓶上的家徽已超 过 1500 年历史，位于普里尼蒙哈榭的 上半区有 200 年之久。粘土和石灰石的 泥灰质土壤在森林的遮荫下，尤其是夏 季，温度调节得很好。这些葡萄酒可谓 明日之星，四百米的海拔为其创造了绝 佳的清新感与和谐性。 」

Romain 将这些特殊年份和来自其 他庄园的葡萄酒直接销售给香港和澳门 的客户，包括酒店、酒吧、餐厅、会所 和少数极其幸运的私人客户，还会举办 讲座、大师班和品酒会，保证与会者能 够深入认识法国著名的勃艮第产区并从 中获得启发。

STARS ASCENDING | TK |

127

EVENT

独感澳味

SENSING AUSTRALIA An extraordinary dinner event pairing Australian food with Australian wine and spirits is an eye-opening experience.

BY LUCY JENKINS

• PHOTOGRAPHY BY BOSCO SHUM & SAMANTHA SIN

Fremantle Octopus and Black Winter Truffle 费里曼图章鱼佐冬季黑松露

128

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

Pace Farm Eggs Fettuccine 派斯农场鸡蛋意大利宽扁面

Meredith Dairy Marinated Goat Cheese 腌渍山羊乳酪

130

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

EVENT

A sensory journey awaits. 一次与众不同的五感体验

S I L K B L I N D FO L D S are handed out to guests to wear as all their attention zeros in on the haunting tones of an ancient Aboriginal song.

“Experiencing something without all five of our senses immediately heightens the rest of them,” explains Shannon Powell, Australia’s senior trade and investment commissioner for Hong Kong and Macau. “Tonight we are going to guide you through a sensory journey across Australia, where you can experience some of the best produce Australia has to offer and you can see for yourself how unique Australia really is.”

The compelling introduction was part of a recent Gourmet Sensory Journey held at Tasting Kitchen ’s Ocean Table and hosted in partnership with Austrade, Australia’s trade and investment agency in Hong Kong.

Every state across the vast country was celebrated, with guests experiencing a bespoke dish and wine or spirit pairing to highlight the unique characteristics of each locale.

The event paid tribute to Australia’s wide variety of fine produce and world-class wines and spirits, from Tasmania’s sparkling cuvées and fresh shellfish to rich dairy produce and sweet wine from New South Wales to the classic winter truffle and Riesling pairing from South Australia. Hong Kong’s leading premier food distributors, Waves Pacific and Watson’s Wine, were also on hand to explain the stories behind the foods and wines, and

Tasting Kitchen ’s own master chef, Jaakko Sorsa, expertly prepared the dishes.

The occasion had opened with a reception featuring Australia’s signature Aperol Spritz, made with a premium cuvée from Jansz Tasmania winery and paired with fresh tiger prawns from Skull Island in Northern Territory. Then, once the blindfolds were off, the dinner commenced with Fremantle Octopus and Black Winter Truffle from the Wilgarup River in Western Australia paired with Swinney Frankland River Riesling 2020 from Swinney Vineyards.

Next came Southern Rock Lobster with Maggie Beer Quince Hollandaise and a Roussanne 2019 from iconic winery Yangarra in McLaren Vale. Pace Farm Eggs Fettuccine was then paired with a 2013

每位宾客戴上丝质眼罩后，注意力便全数贯注 于绕梁的古老原住民曲调，澳洲港澳区投资贸 「当人的 易资深委员 Shannon Powell 解释道 ： 五感中有任一元素遭到剥夺时，其余的感知会 变得更加强烈。我们今晚将带领各位经历一场 横跨整个澳洲的感知之旅，让大家在品尝澳洲 顶级农产品之际，亲身体会澳洲的独特之处。 」 宾 客 随 着 这 段 引 人 入 胜 的 开 场 白， 于

Tasting Kitchen 的 Ocean Table 开启一段美食 感官之旅。与 TK 共同合作举办盛宴的澳洲办 事处商务处是澳洲在香港的投资贸易据点，这 场飨宴歌颂了澳洲广袤的各个州区，宾客享用 的客制美馔佐佳酿经过精心设计，让各地的独 门特色皆得以大放异彩。 澳洲的农产种类丰富，品质绝佳，更不 乏世界级的葡萄酒与烈酒，这场向澳洲美食美 酒致敬的盛会中，有塔司马尼亚的特酿气泡酒 与新鲜贝类、新南威尔斯的浓醇乳品与甜酒， 还有南澳的经典绝配 – 冬季松露佐雷司令白 酒。香港首屈一指的顶级食材供应商浪太平洋 stars ascending

|

TK |

131

Skull Island Tiger Prawns 骷髅岛新鲜虎虾

King Island Dairy Smoked Cheddar and Tasman Sea Salt Cheese Cake 塔斯马尼亚国王之岛烟熏切达奶 酪与塔斯马尼亚海盐奶酪蛋糕

EVENT

Elizabeth Ward, Australia’s Consul-General to Hong Kong and Macau, leads the adventure. 澳洲驻香港及澳门总领事Elizabeth Ward 引领宾客探索澳洲之味。

与屈臣氏酒窖亦到场为宾客讲解美食及美酒背 后的故事，菜肴则由 Tasting Kitchen 的顶尖大 厨 Jaakko Sorsa 悉心烹制。 整场活动以招待会揭开序幕，宾客首先酌 饮简斯塔斯马尼亚酒庄顶级特酿气泡酒调制的 澳式特色橙味鸡尾酒，搭配北领地骷髅岛的新 鲜虎虾细尝，宾客摘下眼罩后，晚宴盛大展开， 首先上桌的佳肴是费里曼图的章鱼与西澳洲维 卡露普河域的冬季黑松露，佐以史文尼酒庄酿 造的 2020 年史文尼法兰克蓝德河雷司令白酒。 紧接着登场的是南澳岩龙虾搭配 Maggie Beer 的榲桲荷兰酱，佐以麦克拉伦谷知名酒庄 扬格拉的 2019 年瑚珊白酒。派斯农场鸡蛋则 搭配意大利宽扁面，并佐上新南威尔斯克隆奇 拉酒庄的 2013 年西拉维欧尼红白混酿酒。派斯 农场是澳洲的顶级蛋商，母鸡一天中有八小时

Shiraz Viognier Blend from Clonakilla in New South Wales. One of Australia’s leading fresh egg suppliers, Pace Farm, where hens have access to organic pastures eight hours a day, is known for the highest standards of quality.

Everyone’s favorite beef, Wagyu sirloin from Queensland, was paired with Bundaberg Ginger Beer and was followed by Meredith Dairy Marinated Goat Cheese from Victoria with a sweet semillon from De Bortoli Wines in Riverina.

Capping the gourmet celebration of Australia’s pristine oceans, fertile soils, sun-filled days, and cool nights was a memorable dessert from Chef Jaakko, a unique cheesecake made with smoked cheddar from Tasmania’s King Island Dairy and Tasman Sea Salt and accompanied by a single-cask brandy from five-star Domaine A winery.

能尽食有机牧草，生下的鸡蛋以其绝佳品质享 誉盛名。 众星捧月的沙朗和牛来自昆士兰，搭配宾 德宝姜汁啤酒享用，位于维多利亚的梅瑞蒂乳 品接着带来腌渍山羊奶酪，佐以瑞福利纳的德 保利酒庄酿造之榭密雍甜白酒。

Jaakko 主厨选用由塔斯马尼亚国王之岛 乳品出产的烟熏切达奶酪与塔斯马尼亚海盐， 打造独一无二的奶酪蛋糕，搭佐顶级的 A 酒 庄酿制的单一木桶白兰地，这席歌颂澳洲的 纯净海洋、肥沃土壤、艳阳天与凉夜的美食 飨宴便在令人难以忘怀的甜点余韵中划下了 句点。 stars ascending

|

TK |

133

无限可能

possibilities unlimited Rums from Bacardi, including its rarest expression, Gran Reserva Limitada, make perfect partners for every course on a sumptuous menu.

Bacardi Gran Reserva Limitada 百加得臻选陈年兰姆酒

134

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

PRESENTED BY BACARDI

TASTING KITCHEN ( TK) recently played host to a

group of Hong Kong’s leading bartenders and mixologists at an Ocean Table exclusive event. A five-course dinner was masterfully executed by TK Executive Chef Jaakko Sorsa and expertly paired with a range of premium Bacardi rums.

Guests were welcomed with a selection of three rum cocktails: the classic daiquiri, Ocho Hour, and Jungle Bird, modeled on the original recipe from the Slow-Roasted Iberico Pork Pluma with Kuala Lumpur Hilton.

Quince Glaze, Baked Jerusalem Artichokes, Wilted Italian Kale, and Apple and Mustard Sauce Reeve Yip, the evening’s star bartender and former 慢烤伊比利猪肋眼，佐以榅桲酱、烤耶路撒冷 Bacardi brand ambassador, pointed out that fine rums are 朝鲜蓟、意大利羽衣甘蓝及苹果与芥末酱 as complex as fine whiskies and can be matched with a wide array of ingredients to create stunning pairings.

Taking center stage was Bacardi Gran Reserva Limitada, known as the Founder’s Blend and originally created in honor of Don Facundo Bacardi Massó, who Tasting Kitchen (TK) 最近在 Ocean Table 主办了一场盛宴，一众香 established Bacardi in 1862. First released in 2003, it 港顶尖调酒师及调饮专家应邀出席。Ocean Table 主厨 Jaakko Sorsa is made from some of Bacardi’s rarest and oldest rum 以精湛技艺准备了五道菜晚餐，并选用一系列百加得兰姆酒佐餐。 stocks. Long barrel aging makes for an intricate flavor 现场备有三款迎宾兰姆鸡尾酒供宾客选择，分别是 the clasprofile with caramelized vanilla, cedar, and toasted sic daiquiri、Ocho Hour 及以吉隆坡希尔顿酒店的原创酒品为原型 notes. 调制的 Jungle Bird。 Limitada over ice accompanied Chef Sorsa’s 当晚的明星调酒师暨百加得前品牌大使 Reeve Yip 表示，好 Slow-Roasted Iberico Pork Pluma with Quince Glaze, 的兰姆酒就如好的威士忌一样，繁复多变，可以结合各色各样的 Baked Jerusalem Artichokes, Wilted Italian Kale, and 食材，带来令人眼前一亮的搭配及变化。 Apple and Mustard Sauce. “Rum is layBY 百 加 得 由 Don Facundo Bacardi Massó 于 1862 ered with many different flavor profiles,” LUCY JENKINS 年创立。盛宴的主角是以「创始人配方」驰名的百加 explains Sorsa, “and I studied them when • 得臻选陈年兰姆酒，最初创制这款佳酿正是为了纪念 creating the dish to pick up all the nuances.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY 这位百加得创办人。这款酒最早于 2003 年发行，以 Limitada, for example, has notes of almond INGA BECKMANN 百加得最为稀有、陈酿时间最长的兰姆酒藏调制而成。 and vanilla, and so I added quince to the 酒液在橡木桶中陈酿多年，带有焦糖香草、雪松及烘 pork to draw out the sweetness.” 烤的浓厚风味，令人唇齿留香。 The starter course, The Ocean, a TK signature of 冰镇臻选陈年兰姆酒搭配的是主厨的慢烤伊比利猪肋眼，佐 salmon, scallops, octopus, and uni, was followed by 以榅桲酱、烤耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟、意大利羽衣甘蓝及苹果与芥末酱。 lobster tagliolini and Wagyu beef. All were matched 「兰姆酒的风味层次多样。我在创作这些菜肴时都要 with mellow Bacardi Reserva Ocho, aged for at least Jaakko 说明 ： 仔细品味，才能带出所有细致滋味。例如臻选陈年兰姆酒带有杏 eight years, and Yip’s take on an Old Cuban, made with 仁和香草味，所以我用榅桲酱来搭配猪肉，以提出甜味。 」 Bacardi Reserva Ocho, Champagne, Angostura bitters, 开胃菜「海洋珍味」是三文鱼、 扇贝、 章鱼及海胆的完美组合， lime, mint, and sugar. 接着上桌的是龙虾宽扁面及和牛，搭配经过至少八年酿造、香醇 Climaxing the evening was Sorsa’s Dark Chocolate 的百加得八年陈酿兰姆酒，以及 Reeve 以八年陈酿兰姆酒、香槟、 Baba, steeped in Limitada and served with caramel 安格仕苦精酒、青柠、薄荷与砂糖创作的 Old Cuban 调酒。 sauce and grated tonka beans, with their elegant notes of caramel, licorice, vanilla, and clove. And by Jaakko 以臻选陈年兰姆酒浸渍黑巧克力兰姆巴巴，佐以焦 糖酱及精研零陵香豆，带出焦糖、洋甘草、香草与丁香的雅致风 also incorporating cloudberries, a classic Scandinavian 味。他更采用了云莓，一种只于夏季数月间、在北极圈内出产的 ingredient found only in the Arctic Circle during the 斯堪的纳维亚半岛经典食材，彰显臻选陈年兰姆酒无可限量的佐 summer months, the chef’s creation brilliantly demon餐可能。 strated Limitada’s limitless pairing potential. stars ascending

|

TK |

135

PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

品味纯鲜

fresh from austria Wineries across the country are producing young and lively reds that pair beautifully with a variety of Asian specialties.

The fresh acidity and spicy character of an Austrian blaufränkisch match well with this Sichuan dish’s fiery seasonings: chili, black pepper, and Sichuan peppercorns, with their delightfully electrifying effect. 奥地利蓝佛朗克葡萄酒的清爽 酸味和辛辣口感，与这道四川 菜中的辣椒、黑胡椒和花椒 等带来触电麻感的调味料相 得益彰。

© AUSTRIAN WINE / ARMIN FABER (2)

© AUSTRIAN WINE/BLICKWERK FOTOGRAFIE,

MOST SERIOUS WINE LOVERS are well aware of the renown of Austria’s classic and elegant whites. Less widely known is the intriguing array of Austrian red wines and their growing reputation as accompaniments to good food.

Among Austria’s many winegrowing regions, Carnuntum is one that has been making a name for itself with high-quality reds, mainly from native blaufränkisch and zweigelt grapes. “They bring wines with freshness, cool aromas, and individuality of expression that perfectly reflect the terroir,” says Christoph Artner of Artner winery. “The versatile use of these indigenous red grapes in combination with international cuisine is something that’s unique to Austria.”

What may surprise many is how well these fresh reds pair with the varied cuisines of Asia. “One would often suggest white wine in combination with Asian cuisine,” says Artner, “but I recommend trying Austrian reds, which are demonstrating how they enhance Asian menus, especially intensely spicy dishes that demand more fruit but lighter tannins.”

In Mittelburgenland, also known for its reds, Eva Maria Iby of family-owned IBY Rotweingut offers her advice: “In general, dishes with beef are suitable. Wok dishes work well with the spiciness of blaufränkisch, especially when the wine has a little ripeness.”

Traisental, a region dedicated predominantly to grüner veltliner, is also producing reds of note. Markus Huber of Weingut Huber, an award-winning star among Austrian winemakers, says, “We aim for good fruit, moderate tannin structure, good drinkability – we would call ours ‘cool climate red wines.’” For Asian cuisine, he suggests that “if the wines are served slightly chilled, they go very well with any kind of seafood – sashimi, for example, with slightly chilled pinot noir.”

奥地利白酒的风味经典优雅，深受饕客喜爱。 除了以白酒闻名外，当地生产的红酒近年来也 日渐受到关注，更是美食搭配的首选。 卡 农 图 姆 是 奥 地 利 著 名 的 酒 乡 之 一， 出 产的红酒品质优良、口味独特，主要以蓝佛朗 克和茨威格葡萄酿制而成。Artner 酒庄负责人 「卡农图姆的红酒多由这 Christoph Artner 说 ： 两种葡萄制成，酿造出来的红酒口味清爽、香 气轻盈，完美诠释了当地的风土特性。奥地利 原生的葡萄常用于配搭异国料理，是一大特色。 」 事实上，红酒也很适合搭配各种亚洲料理。 「当提及与亚洲食物作配的佳酿， Christoph 说 ： 大部分人会选择白酒，但我个人建议试试奥地 利的红酒。单宁含量低且富有果香的红酒可以 为食物提味，尤其适合口味辛辣的菜式。 」 上普伦多夫县的 IBY 酒庄也以红酒闻名。 酒庄负责人 Eva Maria Iby 分享了她的餐酒配搭 秘诀 ： 「基本上，牛肉料理跟红酒很配。带有辛 辣口感的蓝佛朗克红酒也很适合大锅热炒的料 理，尤其是风味较为醇厚的酒种。 」 特莱森谷盛产绿维特利纳葡萄，近年也投 入酿造红酒。获奖酒庄 Huber 的负责人 Markus 「我们的红酒以品质优良的葡萄制成， Huber 说 ： 单宁含量适中，口感上佳。我们把它们称为『冷 「选 凉气候红酒』 。 」搭配亚洲菜来说，他建议 ： 用冰镇过的红酒来搭配海鲜料理，比如生鱼片 就很适合搭配冰镇过的黑皮诺红酒。 」 stars ascending

|

TK |

137

PRESENTED BY GROUPE SEB

锅具革命

cookware revolution German technology creates a super alloy that combines the best qualities of all existing cookware materials.

FUSIONTEC BY WMF brings together the conductivity of copper, the heat retention of cast iron, the scratch resistance of glass, the noncorrosive nature of stainless steel, and the even-cooking properties of aluminum, all in one unique, high-performance material.

To create Fusiontec, scientists and craftsmen in Riedlingen in South Germany worked tirelessly to make it happen, using precise, innovative processes to fuse more than twenty natural raw materials, including quartz and feldspar, with robust steel.

The manufacturing technique involves melting the blend of minerals at approximately 1300°C and quenching the result in cold water, which solidifies the mix into a glassy granulate that is the basis of the Fusiontec alloy.

The special steel core of nearly pure iron is molded through a deep-drawing process, and the steel and layers of mineral glaze are then fused in a furnace at 860°C into an inseparable unit.

The pouring rim is produced by a polishing and plating process and is sealed with chromium to protect it from corrosion and chipping. Finally, the handles are attached and a 100 percent quality control inspection is performed by hand.

Fusiontec provides energy-saving cooking with fast heat-up, excellent heat distribution and retention, and flawlessly even results. The extremely hard surface is exceptionally durable and dishwasher safe.

Offered in a range of colors and a variety of sizes and configurations, including frying pans, saucepans, cooking bowls, casseroles, and stewing pans, Fusiontec is designed with a stylish aesthetic that’s made to last.

德国知名品牌 WMF 新推出 Fusiontec 系列锅具，以独一无二高效能的材质 铸造，兼具铜的导热、铸铁的蓄热、 玻璃的耐刮、不锈钢的抗锈及铝的均 匀受热等优异特性。

Fusiontec 为德国南部里德林根 镇的科学家与工匠戮力不懈、投注大 量心血的结晶，采用精密创新制程， 冶炼石英、长石等超过二十种天然矿 物陶瓷与铸钢。 在经约 1300°C 高温熔化后，这 些天然矿物陶瓷被浸入冷水中，再历 淬火纯提，使矿物混合物硬化成光滑 的陶浆，成为 Fusiontec 合金的基质。 特殊精钢铸芯则采用几近 100% 纯铁深抽成型，再经过 860°C 回转炉 将陶浆与精钢铸芯多次融合形成密不 可分的细腻釉面。 防滴漏锅缘经抛光制程及电镀处 理，抗锈蚀、不剥落。接上手把后， 最后由工匠全手工检查，确保品质无 虞。

Fusiontec 加 热 速 度 快， 导 热 与 蓄热性极佳，使烹调食物更均匀完美， 省电又环保。同时，锅具表面坚硬无 比，十分经久耐用，还可放进洗碗机 洗涤。 不仅如此，Fusiontec 系列 锅具色彩缤纷，煎锅、汤锅、 料理碗、烤锅、炖锅等众多 尺寸与规格应有尽有，设计 时尚美观、历久不衰。

SOGO (Causeway Bay) | 10/F, SOGO Causeway Bay, 555 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay Wing On Main Store (Sheung Wan) | B/F, Wing On Centre, 211 Des Voeux Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Wing On Plus (Nathan Road) | 4/F, Wing On Kowloon Centre, 345 Nathan Road, Kowloon, Hong Kong Wing On Plus (Tsim Sha Tsui East) | B/F, Wing On Plaza, 62 Mody Road, Tsim Sha Tsui East, Kowloon, Hong Kong YATA Department Store (Shatin) | G/F, New Town Plaza 3, 2 Shatin Centre Street, Shatin, Hong Kong YATA Department Store (Taipo) | G/F, Zone B, Tai Po Mega Mall, 8 On Pong Road, Tai Po, Hong Kong

138

|

TK |

stars ascending

COURTESY OF WMF (3)

W M F H O N G KO N G

Crafted for life.

From fused elements to culinary excellence.

Fusiontec – The best qualities in one.

Your kitchen partner for life* & all your culinary delights. / The best cookware properties in one unique material / Fast heat-up, excellent heat distribution and retention for energy-saving cooking / Flawlessly even cooking results that stay warm for longer / Extremely hard and durable surface, resistant to scratches and abrasions, dishwasher safe / Stylish aesthetic and unique alloy crafted in Germany that’s made to last

wmf.com

* The 30-year warranty is guaranteed for the inner and outer FUSIONTEC material of the product.

The warranty only applies for proper conditions of use. More detailed provisions about the scope of the guarantee declaration as well as proper use can be found in the instructions for use enclosed with the products.

Coming ComingSoon Soon

Secure Secure Your Your Next Next Flexible Flexible Office Office In In AIA AIA Central, Central, AA Landmark Landmark In In The The Heart Heart of of Hong Hong Kong's Kong's Central Central Business Business District District

Two Pacific Two Pacific PlacePlace One One ifc Hong ifc Hong KongKong AIA Central AIA Central Nexxus Nexxus Building Building Two Chinachem Two Chinachem Central Central

The Hong The Hong KongKong Club Club Building Building

ThreeThree Garden Garden RoadRoad

Prosperity Prosperity Tower Tower

A Private A Private Office Office or or Coworking Coworking Pass Pass with with The The Executive Executive Centre Centre includes: includes: • • • •

Access • Access to to 1111 of of Hong Hong Kong's Kong's most most prestigious prestigious buildings buildings and and locations locations Freedom • Freedom to to work work across across Hong Hong Kong's Kong's core core financial financial districts: districts: Central, Central, Admiralty Admiralty and and Quarry Quarry Bay Bay Bespoke • Bespoke consultations consultations and and solutions solutions forfor workspaces workspaces upup to to 5,000 5,000 sq.sq. ft ft Options • Options to to tailor tailor Private Private Offices Offices with with dedicated dedicated entrances, entrances, custom custom floorplans floorplans and and corporate corporate branding branding • First-class • First-class business business concierge concierge services services and and in-centre in-centre IT IT assistance assistance ForFor more more information information or or to to book book a private a private consultation, consultation, don't don't hesitate hesitate to to getget in in touch touch with with us us at at +852 +852 2293 2293 2787 2787 hongkong@executivecentre.com hongkong@executivecentre.com

Images for reference only

SUBSCRIBE 25% off

$360 $270 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen (TK) is a celebration of inspiring gourmet adventures, eloquent artistic expressions, and engaging cultural encounters.

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

contact information name

address

postal code

country Kindly return the

company name

title

completed form to: Email subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

phone

fax

Mail Tasting Kitchen Units 1-2, 6/F., Oceanic Industrial

email

Centre, 2 Lee Lok Street, Ap Lei Chau, Hong Kong Tel +852 2116 1030

142

|

TK |

STARS ASCENDING

RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Obscura by 唐香 5 Innovative

Modern

Chinese No. 538, Xikang Rd. Jingan District, Shanghai 上海市静安区西康路 538号 Tue-Sat: 18:00-22:00 q +86 191 2147 1147

Ami 5 Parisian

cuisine

Shop 302, Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中置地历山3楼302号铺 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30 Sat, Sun and public holidays: 11:30-14:30 Dinner: 6:30 until late q +852 3185 8396

Imperial Court 金殿堂

TATE

5 Contemporary

5 French

Cantonese cuisine

and Japanese

VIP Hotel Lobby of MGM Macau,

210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan,

Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

Hong Kong

澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门美高梅 酒店贵宾大堂 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 11:00-15:00; Sat, Sun and public holidays: 10:00-15:00

香港上环荷李活道210号 Lunch: Fri-Sat: 12:00-16:00 Dinner: Tue-Sat: 17:30-22:00 q +852 2555 2172

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Golden Flower 京花轩 5 Sichuan,

q +853 8802 2361

Shandong and Northern Chinese

Cuisine Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau 澳门外港填海区仙德丽街永利澳门 Dinner: Thu-Sun: 18:00-22:30 q +853 8986 3663 A Casual elegant

Children age 10 or above are welcome

The Manor 雅舍 5 Western

Refer 5 International

5/F, Building No.8, TaikooLi North Chaoyang, Beijing 北京市朝阳区三里屯太古里北区n8座5楼 Wed-Sun: 18:00-22:00 q +86 132 6033 7688

1/F, The St. Regis Macao, The Londoner Macao, Estrada do Istmo, s/n, Cotai, Macao 澳门路氹连贯公路澳门伦敦人 澳门瑞吉酒店1楼 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 q +853 8113 1300 stars ascending

|

TK |

143

DIPTYQUE HK E-BOUTIQUE https://www.diptyqueparis.com/en_hk DIPTYQUE IFC MALL | Shop 1083, Level 1, ifc mall, Central | Hong Kong | +852 2521 6799 DIPTYQUE HARBOUR CITY | Shop 2410, Level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 3188 9994 DIPTYQUE K11 MUSEA | Shop B125A, Level B1, K11 Musea | 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 9727 5903 DIPTYQUE FESTIVAL WALK | Shop G-20, Level G | 80 Tat Chee Ave. | Kowloon Tong | Hong Kong | +852 9171 9251 LANE CRAWFORD CANTON ROAD | 2/F, Lane Crawford Canton Road, 3 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui | Hong Kong | +852 3586 9359 LANE CRAWFORD TIMES SQUARE | G/F, Lane Crawford Times Square, Causeway Bay | Hong Kong | +852 2111 97263