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T A S T I N G 32

K I T C H E N

ALONG THE IRRAWADDY

YANGON   

Defying Expectations 缅甸分子料理

IRRAWADDY   

Ageless River 不朽之河

DAGON TOWNSHIP   

Unexpected Burmese 超乎想象缅甸之味


STARTER

Chef de Cuisine Thatsanapong Kaewprasuna of cruise ship Belmond Orcaella creates his version of one of Myanmar’s iconic dishes, laphet thoke, or green tea leaf salad. The earthy, tangy flavor of the fermented leaves complements common crunchy additions like fried garlic flakes, toasted sesame seeds, ground roasted peanuts, and pumpkin seeds. Here, the dish is presented on the movable tongue of the type of wooden puppet head often bought by tourists in local markets.

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DAVID HARTUNG

Belmond豪华渡轮 Orcaella 号主厨 Thatsanapong Kaewprasuna 在缅甸的标志性菜肴腌茶叶沙拉 中加入了炸蒜片、烤芝麻、花生碎和南瓜籽,松脆的口感与茶叶经发酵产生的扑鼻泥土香气配搭 得天衣无缝。这道菜被放在游客会在当地市场购买的木偶的活动舌头上,新颖别致。


T A S T I N G 32

K I T C H E N

ALONG THE IRRAWADDY

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

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DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

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EDITORS

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Halfway up a stupa, a visitor to Bagan, Myanmar, strikes a classic yoga pose at sundown. 一位缅甸游客在日落蒲甘之际, 在大佛塔上练习瑜伽。

Photography by David Hartung

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2017 All rights reserved

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Along the Irrawaddy, we share the beauty of Myanmar: its stunning natural environment, its heritage, its craftsmanship, and its cuisine. We start by visiting the workshop of a master carpenter who is using the country’s famed teakwood to create modern, functional homeware and furniture that’s now being featured in the country’s up-and-coming cafés and restaurants. Two local artists interpret two different sides of Myanmar’s agricultural life. The first portrays Kachin farmers in northern Myanmar and the physical struggle of the rice harvest. The second captures the vibrancy of rural, open-air zays, or markets, where, under Myanmar’s brilliant sun, everything from fruits to textiles is on display. In TK’s cover story, our writer and photographer sail the Irrawaddy River from Mandalay to Bhamo and back, taking in the tapestry of life along Myanmar’s most important waterway. They encounter pottery artisans and apprentice monks, dolphins and elephants at play, ancient temples and quiet schoolrooms. In the words of an old Myanma song, “Of all the fruits, mango’s best; of all the meats, pork is best; of all the leaves, laphet’s best.” Laphet, or tea leaf, is a key element in many traditional dishes, and during our visit to the Belmond Governor’s Residence in Yangon, we learn how the hotel’s new executive chef came to love the ingredient’s powerful flavor and has found inventive new ways to incorporate it into her dishes. It was more than a year ago that we first began working on this issue, and over several trips to the country our editorial team experienced many facets of its wonderful culture and people. And so it was with an especially heavy heart that we learned the recent news of the military attacks on the Rohingya minority, forcing nearly half a million to flee from Rakhine State to neighboring Bangladesh. Additional information on the humanitarian crisis is on p.12, including the names of aid organizations that are trying to help. Our thoughts are with all who have been persecuted and displaced.

MARK HAMMONS

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P I R ATA G RO U P W I S H E S YO U

M E RRY CH RI S T M AS

www.piratagroup.hk

Facebook: Piratagrouphongkong


CONTENTS

4 STARTER 14 Twenty-First Century Teak  •  16 Survival and Hope  •  18 Local Color  •  20 Lifestyle Yangon 24 Star-Studded Decade  •  32 A Master’s Wisdom  •  36 Ageless River  •  72 Unexpected Burmese 82 Defying Expectations  •  90 Guardians of Authenticity  •  98 Honest Dining

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CONTENTS

102 Peaks of Perfection  •  108 Today’s Cantonese  •  112 Lounging in Luxury 116 Snowy and Showy  •  120 Agave Unlimited  •  124 Tokyo Underground 126 Sekt’s Appeal   •  128 Pursuit of Elegance  •  132 The Embassy Affair 138 L I S T I N G S   •  144 D E S S E R T

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Burma’s Rohingya Crisis THIS ISSUE OF TK ,

which has been in the works for more than a year,

focuses on many of the wonderful aspects of Myanmar. But we believe it is necessary to call out and condemn the recent extreme measures taken by the country’s military against the Rohingya minority. This crackdown has forced hundreds of thousands of Rohingya Muslims, described as the world’s most persecuted people, to flee from Rakhine State to neighboring Bangladesh. In an overwhelmingly Buddhist country, the Rohingya have long been treated as a stateless people, denied citizenship and severely restricted in their movements. Tensions and outbreaks of violence on both sides have continued for years, but when Rohingya extremist militants killed scores of police in 2016, Myanmar’s security forces responded fiercely. Human Rights Watch, Amnesty International and other human rights groups have said that disproportionate counterterrorism operations have involved arbitrary killings, systematic rapes, the burning of houses, and forced expulsions. While the conflict is complex, we cannot ignore the horrific things happening to the Rohingya people, and we ask for our readers’ help on their behalf. Below are two of the many aid groups accepting contributions: The International Rescue Committee www.rescue.org/country/myanmar BRAC

www.brac.net

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缅甸罗辛亚难民危机 本期 TK 以缅甸为主题,筹备时间超过一年,专心呈现缅甸美 好的一面。然而,对于缅甸军政府近来对于罗辛亚少数族群采 取的极端手段,我们在此发出呼吁和谴责。军事镇压造成全球 受迫害最严重的族群,数十万罗辛亚穆斯林难民从若开邦仓皇 逃到邻国孟加拉。 在这个以佛教徒为主的国家,罗辛亚人长年受到不平待遇, 形同无国籍人士,无法申请公民身份,行动也遭到限制,双边 的紧张局势及暴力事件也延续多年。2016 年,罗辛亚极端军事 份子杀害数十位缅甸警察,成为缅甸军方展开猛烈回击的导火 线。人权观察、国际特赦组织及其他人权组织表示,此一反恐 行动武力对比极为悬殊,并涉及大规模屠戮、计划式强奸、放 火烧毁民房及强行驱逐等。 暴力冲突的复杂程度与日俱增,对于罗辛亚人面临的可怕 景况,我们不能视而不见。我们在此呼吁读者挺身相助,透过 多个援助组织慷慨解囊。其中两个组织网址如下 :

国际救援委员会 www.rescue.org/country/myanmar 孟加拉国农村发展委员会 (BRAC): www.brac.net

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INSPIRED LIVING

柚木之美

twenty-first century teak

NYAN ZAY HTET (2)

A Myanmar-born brand showcases contemporary expressions of the country’s most time-honored wood.


Bogota Bowl by Myanmar brand Paribawga is hand-carved from teak and finished in a rich brown varnish. 由缅甸品牌Paribawga一手打 造的「Bogota Bowl」,均是以 柚木人手制成,再涂上棕色亮漆。

THE PRODUCTION AND CARVING of teakwood has deep historical roots in Burma. The species, indigenous to the region, grows across large areas of Myanmar. Not only has its export value contributed significantly to the local economy since the era of British rule, but it also holds an important place in Burmese cultural traditions – temples, palaces, and monasteries have been adorned with intricately carved teak decorations since before the ninth century. Most of the teak wares produced in Myanmar today, still carved by highly skilled craftsmen according to age-old methods, lean toward a traditional rather than a contemporary aesthetic. But Chinese-Burmese entrepreneur Ivan Pun wanted to see the legacy of old Myanmar expressed through modern design. As founder of a number of innovative Yangon restaurants and creative spaces under his Pun + Projects banner, he teamed up with Marcelo Maier, a German master carpenter and former long-term resident of Myanmar, to establish the furniture and home accessories brand Paribawga. The new company, whose name means “furniture” in Burmese, launched its first collection late last year at the Yangon Furniture Fair. Among the benches, cabinets, and side tables on offer was a creation named Bogota Bowl. Designed by Maier, the piece is hand-carved by local artist Ko Moe Zaw and finished in rich brown varnish. Since teak is naturally water resistant, the bowl can be put to either decorative or culinary uses. This year, Pun opened an earthy but upscale vegetarian cafe in Paribawga’s Yangon showroom to highlight just how functional the brand’s accessories and furniture can be in real-life settings. The menu of small plates features top-quality fresh produce and organic flavor combinations that reflect the brand’s commitment to conveying the everchanging moods of Myanmar’s complex natural environment. All of Paribawga’s products are produced in Myanmar by local artisans under the supervision of Maier and in harmony with the creative vision of Pun. Both founders are dedicated to promoting a sustainable teak industry in Myanmar, and their goal is to create heirloom pieces that will last a century. One table can take up to a hundred and fifty hours to complete by hand. “The quality of the wood is the soul of the tree,” says Maier. “It’s a living material, and to show its beauty, you have to understand how it moves. I hope this philosophy is reflected in every piece I create.”

柚木制作及刻制在缅甸历史相当悠久。 柚木为缅甸原生木种,相当常见,遍及 国内各大地区。柚木出口畅旺,自英国 殖民时期开始,便是地方经济的一大来 源。柚木在缅甸文化传统中占据着不可 取代的重要地位。 约 9 世纪前开始,寺 庙、皇宫及僧院便使用精致的柚木雕刻 作装饰。 现在,缅甸当地绝大部分的柚木产 品仍由技术高超的木匠依据古法刻制, 风格传统,少见现代风元素。不过华裔 缅甸籍创业家 Ivan Pun 决定要以现代设 计表达流传已久的缅甸传统美学。他是 「Pun + Projects」品牌下多家仰光创新 餐厅及创意空间的幕后推手,他与曾久 居缅甸的德国大师级工匠 Marcelo Maier 合作,打造 Paribawga(缅文家具之意) 品牌家具及家饰品。 全新品牌 Paribawga 去年底于仰光 家具展推出首个家具系列,在长椅、橱 柜 及 边 桌 等 产 品 中, 由 Marcelo 设 计、 缅甸艺术家 Ko Moe Zaw 手刻后涂上棕 色亮漆的「Bogota Bowl」柚木碗显得特 别亮眼。 「Bogota Bowl」用途多元,柚 木本身高度防水,装饰用餐两相宜。 今年,Ivan 在 Paribawga 仰光展示 中心内开了间风格朴实的高档素食餐厅, 一展自家家饰品及家具于日常生活中的 丰富功能性。小份量的餐食主打顶级新 鲜食材及有机口味,与品牌致力于发扬 千变万化的缅甸多元自然环境理念相互 呼应。

Paribawga 旗下全部产品均于国内 生产,产品都是由 Marcelo 把关,由在 地工艺技师操刀,并且与 Ivan 创意概念 相符的高水准之作。两位创办人均旨在 推广缅甸永续柚木产业,期待打造可当 作传家宝、值得收藏百年的作品。纯手 工 柚 木 桌 平 均 需 要 150 小 时 才 能 完 成。 「无可挑剔的木质正 Marcelo 自豪表示 : 是柚木的灵魂所在。柚木是活的,想抓 到美丽的神韵得要对柚木的一举一动了 若指掌才行。衷心期盼我打造的每件作 品都能传达此创作美学。 」 along the irrawaddy

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FOOD & ART

生存与希望

survival and hope An artist’s vibrant canvases portray the often harsh realities of rural life in Myanmar.

LONG, LONG AGO, their ancestors journeyed from the center 很久很久以前,他们的祖先从中央大陆 of the earth to a place where life would be perfect and rice 跋涉千里,来到生活富足、粮食无缺之 would grow in abundance. The ancient creation myth of 地。克钦人是个世居于缅甸最北之邦的 the Kachin people, who inhabit the northernmost state of 种族。他们的创世神话诉说了从遥远的 Myanmar, demonstrates that since prehistoric times, the 史前时代开始,水稻,或称作亚洲米, humble grass species Oryza sativa, or Asian rice, has been 这种朴实的植物已经与他们的文化和生 intertwined throughout the culture and livelihood of the 计有着密不可分的关系。 country’s inhabitants. 缅甸是个经常被誉为东南亚最富饶 Often referred to as the most fertile country in 的国家,国内葱郁的低地平原与山麓上, Southeast Asia, Myanmar produces a variety of 孕 育 出 五 花 八 门 的 蔬 菜。 米 BY vegetables on its lush lowland plains and moun饭 是 其 中 最 重 要 的 作 物, 覆 KATE NICHOLSON tain foothills. Rice is by far the most important 盖了超过八百万公顷的种植 crop, with around eight million hectares planted 面 积, 全 国 更 有 超 过 一 半 的 ART BY and well over half of the population involved in 人口从事稻米生产。 DAWEI LAY its production. 鼎鼎有名的缅甸画家 In the artwork reproduced here, celebrated Dawei Lay 在 这 幅 艺 术 品 中 Burmese painter Dawei Lay captures an everyday scene 重现他从小成长的小乡村美景。 Dawei from the small rural village where he grew up. While most 的同辈,大多数都注定一辈子务农,而 of his peers were destined for an agrarian way of life, Lay’s Dawei 的 家 人 却 鼓 励 他 去 追 求 艺 术 生 family encouraged him to pursue an art career. “My father is 涯。他解释 : 「我的父亲是位传统的音乐 a traditional musician,” he explains, “and he loves for us to 家,他喜欢我们做任何有关艺术的事。 」 do anything related to the arts.” Lay attended university in Dawei 进入仰光的一所大学,并且从事 Yangon and worked as a commercial artist before becoming 广告艺术工作一段时间,后来成为一位 an independent painter. 独立画家。 This acrylic work is part of an ongoing series called 这个压克力作品是「生存」系列的 Survival. “The name,” he remarks, “says everything – the 其中一张。他说 : 「这个系列名称,表达 farmers are simply trying to survive.” Life on farms in 」缅甸的 了一切 – 农夫们只想求个温饱。 Myanmar is often difficult, with much of the labor still done 农家生活艰苦,大部分农活仍需用双手 by hand. Paddies are ploughed by water buffalo, rice is cut by 来做,稻田要靠水牛来犁、收割要靠镰 hand with scythes, and the harvested grain is transported to 刀来砍、采收好的谷物还需靠牛车载到 market by bullock cart. 市集。 Field hats feature heavily in Lay’s series. He paints them Dawei 的 系 列 作 品 大 多 包 含 许 多 on his farmers’ heads, he says, to provide protection from 斗笠。对于画中的农夫们均头戴斗笠, the glaring sun. The deep red of the sky, a color also seen Dawei 说是为了在烈日当空下给农夫们 on the shirts of the farmers and interspersed throughout the 提供一丝保护。火红的天空,犹如穿梭 rice stalks, “represents excitement and the farmers’ hope to 于稻杆中的农夫们身上的红衣,代表了 escape from poverty.” 热情,还有农夫们脱离贫穷的冀望。

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传奇色彩

local color In brilliant hues, a Burmese artist captures the vitality of traditional market life.

MYANMAR IS WELL-KNOWN for its lively zays , markets 缅 甸 朝 气 蓬 勃 的 市 场( 缅 甸 文 称 作 zay) where locals and tourists can buy everything from spiny 闻名天下,当地人与游客可以在这买到各 red rambutan fruits to vividly patterned hand-woven 式各样的商品,从刺刺的红毛丹到手工绣 textiles. The celebrated Myanmar artist K Kyaw is a pro上栩栩如生图案的纺织品应有尽有。赫赫 lific painter of these vibrant scenes of local customs and 有名的缅甸多产画家 K Kyaw 就专门描绘 commerce. 如此生意盎然的当地市场景况。 Reproduced here is his work entitled Morning Crowd K Kyaw 的一幅作品《集市清晨》就 that depicts a contemporary scene in Shan State. Little 画出了掸邦的现代市场景象。这样的市场 has changed in markets of this type since precolonial 模式从殖民时期就几乎不曾改变,从那时 times, when they first became the main 起就一直是缅甸市民购买国内 BY source of domestic and imported goods for 外产品的主要地点。大城市里 KATE NICHOLSON ordinary Burmese. In bigger towns and cities, 的市场大多保有一世纪前的风 they are often still housed in the same ornate 貌,也就是华丽建筑物内的室内 ART BY buildings in which they were established over 市场,但乡村地区就多數是露 K KYAW a century ago, but rural markets like this one 天市场,可以看到小摊贩们藏 are usually open-air, with stalls sheltered by a 身在林立的棚子与大雨伞的阴 forest of canopies and umbrellas in a rainbow of shades. 影下叫卖。 “People in Myanmar like strong colors,” says Kyaw K 表示,强烈的色彩是缅甸文化中非 of what is a ubiquitous visual element in the country’s 常普及的视觉元素。 「缅甸人喜欢强烈的色 cultural fabric. “As you can see in our daily life, we wear 彩。如你所见,我们的衣服颜色鲜艳,也 bright colors, we paint in bright colors. I think it’s because 会用亮丽的色彩作画,我想是因为缅甸的 we have very strong sunlight. Wherever we go, everything 骄阳似火吧。有我们在的地方,所有事物 looks bright.” 看起来都光芒四射。 」 Kyaw studied under prominent pioneering Burmese K 师事多位杰出缅甸艺术家,U Kyaw artists like U Kyaw Lay, U Hla Myint Kyaw, U Mya Aye, and Lay、U Hla Myint Kyaw、U Mya Aye 与 U U Thit Lwin Soe. Although he typically interprets the comThit Lwin Soe 都是他的老师。 K 偏好使用 plexity and chaos of market life in the quick-dry medium 快干的压克力颜料描绘眼花撩乱的市集生 of acrylic, he also works in ink, pencil, and watercolor. “The 活 ,偶尔也会用墨水、铅笔还有水彩来作 best light you can get from nature is in the morning,” he 画。他说 : 「早晨的光线是大自然的赠礼, says, “so the most beautiful moments in the market are 因此市场最美的一刻也是很早的时候。那 very early. People also have the highest energy in the 时的人们最神采奕奕,蔬果看起来也鲜脆 morning, and the vegetables are nice and fresh.” What 欲滴。 」然而,最吸引 K 的一点,却是市场 most interests Kyaw about the local marketplace, how「我们可以 所展现的生活百态。 K 还认为 : ever, is the universality of the life on display. “Here we can 看到人们如何生活,不论贫贱或富贵、聪 see how all people live,” he says. “Rich or poor, smart or 明或驽钝、美丽或丑陋,大家都孜孜不懈 stupid, beautiful or ugly, everyone struggles together.” 地为生存而努力。 」

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仰光新型格

lifestyle yangon A new hotel’s signature restaurant integrates Burmese heritage with a contemporary urban vibe.

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BABETT EATERY & BAR is one of the latest additions to a profusion of stylish restaurants, bars, music venues, galleries, and boutiques sprouting up across Myanmar’s largest city, Yangon. The restaurant, which is a central feature of the newly opened Hotel G Yangon, stands out in this flourishing landscape for its all-day dining concept and its traditional-meets-modern aesthetic. Babett was designed by the in-house team at GCP Hospitality, the management group behind both Hotel G and The Strand, Yangon’s famous landmark hotel. “There’s

COURTESY OF BABETT EATERY & BAR

DESIGN


never been a more exciting time to be here,” confirms Marc Bichet, chief marketing officer at GCP, who was heavily involved in the design process. “Every week we’re seeing an edgy new gallery, shop, or restaurant pop up in the neighborhood around us. Our location offers the perfect mix of contemporary lifestyle and the traditions and values of this beautiful country.” In fact, Hotel G Yangon resonates with the city’s past. The building it occupies was once the Thamada Hotel, one

仰光是缅甸第一大城,街头的时尚餐厅、 酒吧、音乐场所、艺廊及精品店有如雨 后春笋般不断冒出。新新力军芭贝特餐 厅和酒吧 (Babett Eatery & Bar) 座落于最 近开幕的仰光 G 酒店。全新餐酒吧不仅 是酒店的亮点所在,其主打的全天餐饮 概念及「传统遇见当代」的美学也是餐 酒吧异军突起的原因。 餐 厅 设 计 由 Hotel G 及 仰 光 知 名 代 表性酒店 The Strand 经营团队 GCP Hospitality 酒 店 集 团 的 内 部 专 业 团 队 操 刀。 亲 身 参 与 每 个 设 计 阶 段 的 GCP 行 销 长 Marc Bichet 兴奋表示 : 「这个时间点来到

仰光真的再适合不过了,每周出门到附 近晃晃,就会发现又有风格独特的艺廊、 商店或餐厅开张。来到我们餐厅,则是 可以看到现代生活如何和这个美丽国度 的传统及价值结合,相辅相成。」 走进仰光 G 酒店,似乎能察觉到城 市过往的足迹,所在建筑前身为仰光历 史最悠久的塔玛达酒店,原装潢于最近 改装过程中全面升级,豪华的柚木地板 予以保留,稍经整理之后延伸至酒店大 堂及芭贝特餐厅之内。餐厅隔壁曾是电 影院,营运直至 1950 年代,播放过许多 黄金年代的电影,餐厅墙上也放上多张 along the irrawaddy

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beach bags by Chu Chu Plastics, are made from recycled materials. Others, such as notebooks and wallets of woven longyi, were acquired through sustainable partnerships with groups that support artisans with physical and mental impairments. Brightly painted paper-mache animals came from a local craftsman who started by making toys for his son. On the walls are screen-printed canvases from Pann Nann Ein, a foundation dedicated to providing opportunities for talented Myanmar artists with disabilities. The restaurant, which serves as the social hub of the hotel, is divided into distinct zones, each serving a dedicated purpose and projecting a slightly different energy. Guests are encouraged by the lobby’s layout to move first into the bar and from there into the dining room or onto an outdoor portico. Babett’s dining options include both banquette seating and traditional small-party tables, as well as longer ones for communal feasting. Floor-to-ceiling windows along one side look out on an

area at the front of the hotel designed as an al fresco dining terrace, an amenity unique in central Yangon. Babett’s California-influenced cuisine offers seasonal dishes tailored to the venue’s individual environments. A refined tapas selection and cheese-and-cold-cut platters are perfect for long lazy outdoor lunches, a copious selection of woodfired pizzas is meant to be shared around the group tables inside, and a carefully curated grill and mains menu is designed for smaller parties. At the bar, guests can try any of five signature cocktails, including Mandalay Is Calling, with rum, egg white, cinnamon, and lime, and Secret Garden, a refreshing medley of infused vodka, cucumber, and lime juice. “Babett Eatery & Bar opened just two months ago,” says Bichet, “but this little place is already a lively venue for the local crowd, one that’s making a big impact on the social and creative scene in Myanmar’s most exciting city.”

COURTESY OF BABETT EATERY & BAR (2)

of Yangon’s oldest. While much of the original interior was upgraded during the recent remodel, the luxurious teak parquet flooring was preserved and restored, and it now runs through the hotel’s lobby and into Babett. The restaurant’s walls are lined with goldenera movie posters in tribute to the films that would once have screened at the next-door cinema that has been in continuous operation since the 1950s. Vintage objets d’art sourced from Maung Maung Antique, a Yangon curiosities boutique, embellish tabletops and wall niches. The Eatery’s modern design elements were also obtained locally. Babett’s furniture was designed by Tangram, a British firm based in Yangon, and custom-built in neighboring Thailand. Contemporary craft objects scattered throughout the restaurant, bar, and hotel guest rooms were sourced in conjunction with social-enterprise design collective Hla Day, whose name means “beautiful” in Burmese. Many of the pieces, including plastic


DESIGN

当年的经典电影海报以示致敬。购自仰光 古玩店 Maung Maung Antique 的古董艺术 品错落置于桌上或墙角,也为餐厅增色不 少。 餐厅内的现代设计元素全数来自当地, 家具由仰光当地的英国公司 Tangram 设计, 后送到邻国泰国客制完成。餐厅、酒吧及 酒店客房内随处可见的当代工艺品则是出 自社会企业设计团队「美丽的一天」(Hla Day,Hla 缅文意思为美丽 ) 之手。 餐 厅 内 还 有 不 少 特 色 的 作 品, 其 中 Chu Chu Plastics 制作的塑胶海滩包均由回 收材料制成。另外像是笔记本及传统笼基 编织钱包则是透过与支持身心障碍工艺家 团体之间的长期永续合作关系所取得。用 色明亮的纸糊动物创作人也出身缅甸,动 机单纯,原本只是为了做玩具给儿子玩, 现在也成为酒店的亮点之一。墙上的大幅 网版印刷作品则是来自 Pann Nann Ein 基 金会,专门提供有才华的缅甸身障艺术家 曝光的机会。 餐厅扮演酒店中社交中心的角色,分 成多个区域,各有其目的性及特色,也创

造出不同氛围。顺着酒店大堂的动线,客 人先来到吧台,接着进入餐厅或户外回廊。 芭贝特餐厅里除了宴会桌,也有典型小型 派对桌,大型餐宴所需的长桌也一应俱全。 从一旁落地窗往外望去,可以看到酒店前 方的户外露台用餐区,在仰光市中心有此 静谧角落实属难得。 餐点走加州风格,以提供当地特殊环 境所产的季节时鲜为主。精致的小碟区及 起司冷盘是在户外悠闲地慢慢享用午餐的 最佳选择,口味多元的柴烧比萨则是为了 餐厅内的团体客人所供应 ;小型派对的话, 则以精心准备的烧烤及主菜最对味。 吧台提供五种招牌鸡尾酒让客人自由 享 用, 包 括 以 兰 姆 酒、 蛋 白、 肉 桂 及 莱 姆调制的「瓦城的呼唤 (Mandalay Is Calling)」,想清新一点的,也可尝尝风味伏特 加、小黄瓜、莱姆汁调的「秘密花园 (Secret Garden)」。 Marc 自 豪 表 示 : 「Babett Eatery & Bar 餐酒吧开张不过两个月,已经成 为当地人的热门新去处,在此缅甸最大城 市中的社交及创意圈中,经营得相当有声 有色。」


PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

星耀十周年

Star-Studded Decade ON NOVEMBER 30, Melco Resorts & Entertainment will host more than five hundred guests at Macau’s grandest culinary event of the year, the 10th Anniversary Michelin and Robert Parker Wine Advocate Gala Dinner, an unforgettable evening entitled “Star-Studded Memories.” As the official title partner of the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau, Melco Resorts & Entertainment brings this starstudded event, for the second consecutive year, to Macau, the newly designated “UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy.” In addition to City of Dreams’ own superstar chefs, Tam Kwok Fung of two-Michelin-starred Jade Dragon and Fabrice Vulin  of two-Michelin-starred The Tasting Room, the event will feature visiting culinary masters Alain Ducasse (Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris, Monte Carlo; three Michelin stars), Kwong Wai Keung (T’ang Court, Hong Kong; three Michelin stars),  Noah Sandoval  (Oriole, Chicago; two Michelin stars) and Hidemichi Seki (Tenku Ryugin, Hong Kong; two Michelin stars). In the Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau 2017, Melco Resorts & Entertainment holds the honor of offering a total of five Michelin-starred dining establishments – more than any other operator in Macau – and has garnered a total of seven prestigious Michelin stars. The basis of this year’s gala theme is the fond memories associated with good things to eat  and drink that everyone cherishes. A whiff of ginger or cinnamon, for instance, can  bring back a flood of childhood recollections of holiday times surrounded by family and filled with grandma’s goodies. Reminiscences of the joyous occasions of life –  parties, birthdays, weddings – evoke the delicious food and drink that helped make those celebrations so special. And recalling travels to faraway places can summon up the thrill of exotic tastes and smells we long to relive. The world’s great chefs are no different, except that they possess the magical talent to transform their treasured memories into edible form, to fashion dishes that in turn have the power to make marvelous memories for those fortunate enough to experience their achievements. At City of Dreams Macau that  gala evening, diners will taste the imaginative creations of six chefs from some of the world’s most  renowned Michelin-starred restaurants and will take with them a new trove of Star-Studded Memories.

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新濠博亚娱乐将于 11 月 30 日举办本年度澳门 最大型的餐饮盛事-由米其林和葡萄酒评论出 版 商 Robert Parker Wine Advocate 共 同 举 办 的《米其林港澳指南》十周年星「色」晚宴, 为受邀的 500 多位宾客带来一个充满熠熠星光 的难忘夜晚。 澳门今年获联合国教科文组织评为「创意 城市美食之都」 ,而米其林官方冠名合作伙伴 新濠博亚娱乐将连续第二年,把这项最瞩目的 盛典再度带来澳门。 在这星光环绕的晚上,除了有新濠天地米 其林二星餐厅「誉珑轩」主厨谭国锋和同获米 其林二星荣耀的「御膳房」主厨 Fabrice Vulin 为宾客烹调美馔,更邀请到多位声名远播的厨 艺大师到场分享他们的技艺和创意,包括蒙 特 卡 洛 米 其 林 三 星 餐 厅「Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris」的 Alain Ducasse, 香港米其林三星餐厅「唐阁」的邝伟强,芝加 哥米其林二星餐厅「Oriole」的 Noah Sandoval 以及香港米其林二星餐厅「天空龙吟」的关秀 道。 在《米其林港澳指南 2017》中,新濠博 亚娱乐的其中五间餐厅一共囊括七颗米其林星 星,总数为全澳之冠,继续为宾客带来高水准 的美食体验。 而此次晚宴的主题,是以每个人珍藏在记 忆深处与饮食有关的那些美好片段为重点。有 时一抹生姜或者肉桂的香气,就能勾起许多童 年的浮光掠影,或是那个被家人簇拥团聚、祖 母烧出一整桌拿手好菜的幸福假期。更有一些 美食和佳酿,能让您回想起派对、生日和婚礼 等人生欢欣愉悦的时刻,味道令这些庆典更有 滋味。除此之外,异国的美味和香气能唤起在 远方旅行的记忆,让人为之惊艳、久久难以忘 怀。 全球的顶尖主厨们和我们一样,而他们 拥有无与伦比的才华及技艺,能将珍藏的记忆 转化成晚宴上呈现的美馔,让幸运的宾客能饱 尝名厨们人生中的回忆与成就。此次在新濠天 地举办的盛宴,宾客将品尝到来自世界各地知 名米其林星级餐厅的六位大厨所创造的创新料 理,共同创造星光闪闪、不同凡响的崭新回忆。


ALAIN DUCASSE TAM KWOK FUNG FABRICE VULIN HIDEMICHI SEKI KWONG WAI KEUNG NOAH SANDOVAL

Michelin marks ten years with a glittering memory-themed gala.

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

L E LO U I S X V – A L A I N D U C A S S E ​ À L’ H Ô T E L D E PA R I S M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

ALAIN DUCASSE Riviera Reverie 蔚蓝海岸幻想曲

In recalling the memorable milestones of your career, what would you say are the most significant? Le Louis XV at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco was a major starting point in my career. It was there that my culinary style became deeply rooted in the traditions and products of the Riviera.

What inspired you to create this dish for the restaurant’s twenty-fifth anniversary back in 2012? I wanted the occasion be a celebration of the Riviera itself, beyond the special event for the restaurant. Along with other local recipes and ingredients, these gamberoni are iconic of the Riviera.

How would you describe the dish’s essence? Purity and freshness go without saying, but the most important thing is to concentrate the taste and deliver a “legible” dish – straight to the point and without “artifacts.” The entire gamberoni is used, including tail and head. And the Mediterranean taste is further reinforced by a delicate fish gelée.

The gamberoni embody the taste of the Riviera, and the preparation respects and enhances that taste. They’re very quickly blanched, then cooled and seasoned with olive oil, grated lemon, fleur de sel, and Espelette pepper. The heads are sautéed to create a rich sauce on which the tails are laid, topped by a spoonful of caviar. The dish is completed with a fine gelée made of slightly saffroned fish bouillon.

回顾过往您辉煌的厨师生涯,最重要的

这道菜的精髓是什么?

里程碑是?

除了食材的原汁原味及鲜度之外,味道更

摩纳哥巴黎大酒店的「路易十五餐厅」是

是重点所在,这道菜直接了当,没有任何

我厨师事业的重要开端,从此深受蔚蓝海

加工,非常「简单易明」 。大虾保留头尾,

岸的料理传统及食材影响,个人烹饪风格

整只入菜,加上味道细致的鱼冻,散发浓

也就此成形。

浓的地中海风味。

这道菜是为了庆祝 2012 年餐厅 25 周年

能否分享一下烹调的方法?

庆而创作的,当时的灵感来自什么?

大虾代表蔚蓝海岸的美味精华,准备过程

这道菜不仅仅为了这个特别场合而做,更

中以保留并提升原味为指导方针。迅速汆

是献给整个蔚蓝海岸的精心创作。新鲜大

烫后放冷,加入橄榄油、柠檬皮、盐花及

虾配上道地作法及食材,几乎可以说是蔚

Espelette 辣椒调味。虾头香煎后制成浓郁

蓝海岸的代名词。

酱汁,放上虾尾后再加上一匙鱼子酱,搭 配稍以番红花调制的鱼清汤冻露,细腻滋 味令人难忘。

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RED DOG STUDIO

How is the dish prepared?


Does your dish hold any personal memories? When I was a boy, I’d often travel with my mother back to her hometown of Shunde, Guangdong, and my grandparents and uncles would always greet us warmly. Cantonese cooking originated in Guangdong, and there’s an old saying there that without chicken, there is no feast. It was a farming village, and they raised their own chickens and had their own mulberry fishponds – something quite common at the time.

So, you’d all gather for a chicken feast?

Did they ever include ginseng?

Yes, chicken was plentiful and convenient, and whenever relatives and friends would come for a visit, the celebration always included chicken-based dishes. All the chickens were free range and their feed was natural, so of course they tasted divine, even when the preparation was very simple – just adding ginger, scallions, salt, and rice wine before steaming in a big wok for fifteen or twenty minutes. It became my family’s signature dish.

Back in old times, ginseng was one of the most expensive ingredients in China, just like abalone, bird’s nest, and shark fin. We didn’t use the expensive ginseng but rather the ginseng tail.

Where does your family hold their feasts? At my grand-aunt’s house, but we’d also dine in our favorite restaurants two or three times a year.

And of course you’d come together at holidays?

JADE DRAGON 誉珑轩

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

TAM KWOK FUNG 谭国锋

I still remember the joyful atmosphere we had at Chinese New Year. My grandmother would deep-fry mushrooms and taro with salt and then seal them in a jar for a snack we’d have with tea.

Reunion 团圆

这道菜蕴藏了什么个人回忆? 小时候我常和妈妈一起回家乡广东顺德,外 公外婆及舅舅们总是热切招呼我们。粤菜起 源自广东,有句老话常说,无鸡不成宴,当 时的农户几乎家家养鸡,还有华南地区常见 的桑基鱼塘。

大家会为了全鸡宴共聚一堂? 没错,鸡肉可说是随手可得、很方便的食材。 每每亲戚朋友来访,宴席上各式鸡肉料理是 必不可少的。鸡只全是放养、吃纯天然的饲 料长大,味道自然非常好。烹调过程也相当 简单,加点姜、青葱、盐及米酒,放进大锅 蒸 15 至 20 分钟就能上桌,也早已成为我家 的招牌菜。

以前也都会加人参吗? 过去在中国,人参和鲍鱼、燕窝及鱼翅一样, 同属最昂贵的食材。我们不用价格高昂的人 参,而是取参须来做菜。

家族习惯在哪边设宴? 在我姨婆家,但偶尔也会到喜欢的餐厅吃饭, 一年两三次左右。

每逢佳节想必也是全家团聚是吗? 农历新年欢天喜地的气氛我到现在仍记忆犹 新。外婆会炸香菇及芋头,加盐之后封在罐

DAVID HARTUNG

子里,当成配茶的零嘴。

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

T H E TA S T I N G R O O M 御 膳 房

FABRICE VULIN

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

Perfect Day 忘憂日

Do you remember when and how you first got the idea for this dish? It was created about a year ago. I’d spent a superb morning at the beach with my friend François at Essaouira in Morocco. He introduced me to the fishermen who were catching blue lobsters – we spent an exceptional day on the Mediterranean Sea.

还记得您是何时及如何得到这道创作料

您的食材来源为何?

理的灵感吗?

我知道去哪里可找到世界上品质最好的食

大 概 是 一 年 前 想 出 来 的。 我 和 朋 友

材。这次晚宴上用的龙虾是从布列塔尼来

François 在摩洛哥索维拉海边度过了一个

的。取得最棒的食材是我的美食哲学,同

美好的早晨,他介绍了一位渔夫给我认识,

时我会认真对待我的供应商。

过去是专门捕捉布列塔尼蓝龙虾的。我们 在地中海上享受了与众不同的一天。

您的料理是否受到摩洛哥食材的影响? 是的,他们有许多让人眼前一亮的香料和

您是如何成功创造出这道料理?

产品。只要我到了那里,就会去市场看当

我当时同时吃着西瓜和龙虾。那颗西瓜很

天最新鲜的食材,从中获到启发,天马行

多汁,龙虾的品质也非常好,然后我想着

空地想像着用这些食材能创造出什么。

如果这两样加在一起,说不定会有意想不 到的惊喜。我非常喜欢口味混搭,于是开

您是怎么着手创造新菜式?

始着手设计出有龙虾、西瓜、柚子酱、糖

当我在进行料理创作时,我第一个想到的

渍柚子和鱼子酱的食谱,而鱼子酱能让这

不是别人,因为只有当自己为所做的味道

道料理更添趣味。

感动,进而才会开始呈现给客人。

How did it come together from there? I was eating watermelon along with the lobster. The melon was very juicy, the lobster was very good, and I thought the combination would be amazing – I actually loved the association of flavors. So I began creating a recipe with lobster, watermelon, yuzu caviar, yuzu confit, and caviar. I think the caviar makes this dish especially interesting.

Where do you source your ingredients? I know where I can get the best ones from all over the world. My lobsters for the Gala are coming from Bretagne. It’s part of my philosophy to obtain the best ingredients, and I take my suppliers very seriously.

Have Moroccan ingredients influenced your food? Yes, they have so many amazing spices and products. Whenever I’m there, I go to the market to see what’s best that day and to get inspiration and just imagine what I can create.

How do you go about developing a new dish?

RED DOG STUDIO

When I’m in the process, I don’t do it for others at first. Only when I’ve come up with something that really impresses me do I develop it for customers.

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T E N K U RY U G I N 天 空 龙 吟

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

HIDEMICHI SEKI 关秀道 Dual Heritage 传承

What’s the idea behind your dish? I wanted to infuse traditional Cantonese flavors into classic Japanese cuisine.

What is the most difficult part to get right? The precision of controlling the balance among flavors of all the ingredients.

Can you describe your culinary approach? The backbone of my cuisine is solidly Japanese, but it’s influenced by my exposure to Chinese and Spanish cooking. I apply modern culinary techniques and I like to feature premium local ingredients.

Does your dish contain any unusual combinations? It combines elements of both Chinese and Japanese, but it also harmonizes ingredients from the land and the sea, which is quite rare in Japanese cuisine.

What was your inspiration? It comes from my childhood. My palate developed with the Cantonese cuisine I learned from my father. And in this dish, I’m expressing the soul of Cantonese cooking by making Chinese soup an essential part of it.

What are your memories of learning from your father? He was a Chinese chef in Japan who ran a Cantonese restaurant and he exposed me to the whole array of Chinese flavors. I would help out in the kitchen and I always loved making dim sum. Now my two-yearold daughter loves shrimp dumplings as much as I do.

这道菜的想法从何而来?

灵感从何而来?

我想在道地日本料理中加入传统粤菜风味。

灵感来自我的儿时记忆,我从小看着,吃 着父亲做广东菜,那些味道伴我成长。这

什么地方最难拿捏?

道菜以中式高汤为最大亮点,用意将粤菜

精准掌控所有食材的味道,达到最佳平衡。

的灵魂结合于日本名贵食材。

谈谈您的烹饪方法。

有没有什么跟着父亲学做菜的回忆?

我以日式风格为主干,同时受到中菜及西

由于父亲在日本开广东菜馆,他让我见识

班牙菜料理方式影响。我做菜常混合不同

到中菜五花八门的丰富味道。我最爱在厨

的现代烹調技巧,也喜欢精选在地名貴食

房帮忙,特别喜欢做港式点心,包饺子非

材入饌。

常能手。现在我两岁的女儿和我一样,最 爱吃虾饺。

这道菜有什么特别的味道组合吗? JAIL CHEUNG

这道菜除了兼具中式及日式元素之外,还 让来自陆上及海里的食材相互交融,这在 日式料理当中比較罕见。

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PRESENTED BY MELCO RESORTS & ENTERTAINMENT

T ’A N G C O U RT 唐 阁 M I C HM E LI C I NH M E LI C I NH E L I N

KWONG WAI KEUNG 邝伟强 Opulent Expression 宏愿

Why did you choose to make this particular dish for the Gala? Abalone is one of my favorite ingredients, as well as one of the most expensive ones used in Chinese cooking. It makes an excellent representative for Cantonese cuisine. And I chose abalone because once it has been prepared ahead, it only needs a short cooking time before serving. That ensures consistency for every guest.

Why is abalone one of your favorites? It has a naturally delicious taste that’s unparalleled and simply irresistible. Even if you were to cook it without a lot of added seasoning, its taste would be amazing. And it’s very adaptable – it can be steamed, stewed, or eaten raw. Every time I cook with it, I experiment, and it surprises me.

Do you remember your first taste of it? When I was young, I’d often hear what a delicacy it was. People would rave about its juiciness, tenderness, and flavor, but at that time, I’d yet to try it. The first time was when I was a teenager working in a kitchen as an apprentice. I was very excited, and my first impressions were of its fragrance and fresh taste.

What are your memories about how this dish came about? It came to me in 2013 when I was designing Cantonese specialties for a menu for a global airline. I picked abalone as a perfect ingredient to show off to international travelers what great variety there is in Chinese cuisine.

您为何为晚宴挑选这道料理?

您还记得第一次吃到鲍鱼的时候吗?

鲍鱼是我最喜欢的食材之一,是中菜里最

小时候常听到别人说鲍鱼是多么美味的食

昂贵的食材,同时也是粤菜料理的完美代

材,他们对其肉质嫩滑、鲜美多汁的口感

表。我选择鲍鱼是因为只要事先准备处理

赞不绝口,但那时我还没有机会尝试过。

好,不需要长时间烹调即可上桌,以确保

第一次尝试鲍鱼是十多岁时我在厨房里当

送到每位宾客面前料理仍保有最佳的味道

学徒,当时一入口便觉得非常兴奋,它的

和口感。

独特的香气和鲜味让我印象深刻。

为什么鲍鱼是您最爱的食材之一?

这道菜蕴含您的什么回忆 ?

鲍鱼带有天然的鲜味,无可比拟且让人无

这道菜是来自于 2013 年我为一家国际航空

法抗拒,即使没有过多调味,仍然美味无比。

公司设计粤菜菜单,当时想挑出能为国际

鲍鱼的可塑性高,清蒸、炖煮、刺身都很

旅客展示中菜多元样貌的食材。最后我选

合适。每次用鲍鱼构思新菜式,总是能带

定鲍鱼作为主菜,因为鲍鱼可塑性高,再

来惊喜。

搭配味浓鲜美的酱汁,保证能引起乘客的 食欲,征服他们的味蕾。

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ORIOLE

M I C HM E LI C I NH E L I N

NOAH SANDOVAL Balancing Act 平衡之道

Why did you choose to make this particular dish for the Gala? It’s a very complex course. It hits lots of notes and I find the sweet/salty/acidic balance to be a perfect fit for a final savory course.

What’s the concept behind it? To balance a dish that revolves around gamey meat and not leave the diner feeling overwhelmed. I try and take something that could be very heavy and lighten it up a bit.

How does this dish express your culinary philosophy? I try and keep things simple and clear. This dish doesn’t apply many modern techniques but does have a modern flavor.

Where will you source the ingredients, and are any hard to get? I’ll be sourcing from a variety of purveyors. Rare Tea Cellar here in Chicago is a great place to get hard-to-find ingredients. I’ll use my forager for some things and will use D’Artagnan for the squab and foie gras.

为何选择为晚宴做这道菜?

这道菜的灵感从何而来?

这道菜很复杂,各式口味融为一体。甜、咸、

寻找咸和甜之间的平衡是我的一大乐趣,吃

酸的完美平衡,作为最后一道咸点再适合不过。

过几次最棒的料理也是以此概念打造。

这道菜是基于什么的概念创作的?

有什么样的故事吗?

这道菜的主角是野味禽类,味道要控制得刚刚

记得多年前做过乳鸽胸肉搭配肝酱慕斯,这

好,才不会让客人觉得太多。重口味食材处理

次想做个更精致的升级版,与「Oriole」的餐

过后减轻了给味蕾的负担,变得美味、好入口。

点相匹配。

这道菜如何体现您的烹饪哲学?

这道菜对您有什么特殊意义?

我尽量让一切都简单明暸,这道菜没有太多

吃了不仅身心舒畅,也让人倍感兴奋。口味

现代烹饪技巧,却充分表现现代风的料理。

丰厚浓郁,却又不会过重,颇具巧思。

What would you say makes this dish so special to you?

食材从何而来,有碰到什么困难吗?

希望带给客人什么样的体验,有什么特别

我 和 各 种 不 同 的 供 应 商 合 作, 像 芝 加 哥 的

想要受到肯定的地方?

I love it because it’s very comforting but also exciting. It’s hearty but light in an interesting way.

Rare Tea Cellar 就很有办法,总能找到别处难

希望大家吃得出这道菜背后的用心,我尽最

寻的食材。有些食材我会自己饲养,但乳鸽

大努力创造不同层次的味道,展现乳鸽料理

及鹅肝就会交给 D’Artagnan 来处理。

的各种细节。

What was your inspiration for the dish? The practice of balancing sweet and salty is something I love doing.

Is there a story behind it?

LORENZO TASSONE

I remember doing a squab breast with liver mousse years ago. I just wanted to refine and update that idea to match what we are doing at Oriole.

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LAU YIU FAI 刘耀辉 EXECUTIVE CHINESE CHEF, YAN TOH HEEN INTERCONTINENTAL HONG KONG AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA

大师级智慧加成

a master’s wisdom Gaggenau enlists legendary chefs for its Culinary Artisans Masterclass series.

IT’S NOT SURPRISING that students were so excited to spend time with Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai at Gaggenau’s recent Culinary Artisans Masterclass held at the company’s sleek contemporary showroom in Hong Kong’s stylish One Island South district. The chef ’s remarkable history with Yan Toh Heen at the InterContinental Hong Kong stretches back nearly four decades, a career that has established his status as one of the city’s most respected and acclaimed Cantonese chefs. Under his leadership, Yan Toh Heen has been awarded two Michelin stars for three consecutive years. During Gaggenau’s latest opportunity for serious students to take their cooking skills to

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the next level, Chef Lau prepared three dishes in front of the group. “The students performed admirably,” he said. “I found them incredibly smart and talented – they all picked up in no time on the points I was trying to convey. To be able to connect this way and share our ideas and experiences was wonderful. It was a great two-way learning process.” Something that especially stood out during the demonstration was the versatility, ease of use, and cuttingedge functionality of the Gaggenau range of equipment that the chef had at his fingertips. “This was the first opportunity I’d had to use Gaggenau kitchen equipment and appliances,” said Lau, “and now I’m thinking seriously about getting them to simplify our

cooking processes while still maintaining the highest quality in our dishes. It would really do a lot to lessen the burden on our staff.” Although all three of the dishes that the chef demonstrated were technically challenging, he found that the students were more than up to it. “Honestly, some of these things are difficult to master,” he said, “but the equipment and tools we had at our disposal definitely streamlined the procedures and made it much easier for students to grasp complex techniques.” His delicate seabass dish, for instance, was replete with precise instructions and several sauces requiring the perfect balance of flavors. “The key is to adhere strictly to the details and ingredients listed in the recipe,” he said, “and then adjust the flavoring according to the size of the portion.” Similarly, the chef ’s tofu recipe involved delicate steaming that called for the absolute precision that Gaggenau equipment delivers. “In finding the correct heat for steaming tofu,” he explained, “one has to very clearly understand the oven’s capabilities and functions. The Gaggenau 400 series Combi-steam oven proved indispensable.”


GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Baked Seabass 酱焗鲈鱼

德国顶级厨房电器品牌「Gaggenau」时髦 现代的展示中心座落于香港时尚地段「One Island South」,最近举行的厨艺大师班邀来 香港洲际酒店中餐厅「欣图轩」主厨刘耀 辉担任讲师,与学员分享厨艺秘诀。 主厨坐镇「欣图轩」将近 40 年,厨师

生涯创造许多辉煌历史,为香港最受尊敬及 推崇的广东菜名厨之一。在他的带领之下, 餐厅创下连续三年摘下米其林二星的佳绩。 想精益求精的学员希望透过 Gaggenau 大师班让厨艺更上一层楼,主厨也特别准 备了三道菜,现场展示炉火纯青的功力。

他对学员赞誉有加 : 「他们表现很好、很聪 明、很有天份,教的东西一点就通。能够 这样彼此交流,分享所见及经验真的很棒, 是一种双向学习的过程。」Gaggenau 系列 厨具是课堂上的最佳帮手,用途多元、操 控简单加上各种领先业界的最新功能,让 主厨带领学员轻松完成多道料理。 他表示 : 「这是我第一次使用 Gaggenau 厨房电器,用过之后真的想把它引进自家 厨房!既可以简化烹调所需的步骤,同时 维持菜式的高品质,大幅减轻员工的负担。」 主厨示范的三道菜难度颇高,深具挑 战性,但他发觉学员都有水准之上的表现。 他提到 : 「老实说,有些技巧要上手并不容 易,但手上的 Gaggenau 设备及工具确实发 挥化繁为简的功能,让学生更容易掌握复 杂的烹调方法。」 拿主厨精致的海鲈料理为例,需要小心 翼翼地混和多种酱汁,味道要抓得准才能达 到完美平衡。他透露 : 「依照食谱上的指示 及食材做菜,一分不差正是关键所在,接着 再依据份量大小调整味道即可。 」豆腐料理 也是主厨的拿手绝活,蒸煮过程一样以精准 为诉求,这也正是 Gaggenau 厨房电器的强 项。他强调 : 「对蒸烤炉的性能及功效了若 指掌,才能完全调控蒸煮豆腐所需的温度。 Gaggenau 400 系列蒸烤炉绝对不可或缺。 」

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS MASTERCLASS Gaggenau is known for its embrace of the best in culinary culture and for all that unites people who have a taste for good living. Recently, at its sleek cuttingedge showroom in Hong Kong, the company united some of the region’s most renowned chefs for the launch of its Culinary Artisan Masterclass series.

SERIES 1

SERIES 2

SERIES 3

SERIES 4

SERIES 5

Mok Kit Keung 莫杰強 Executive Chinese Chef Shang Palace, Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong 香港九龙香格里拉大酒店 香宮主厨

Lau Yiu Fai 刘耀辉 Executive Chinese Chef Yan Toh Heen, InterContinental Hong Kong 香港洲际酒店欣图轩行 政总厨

Marike Van Beurden Pastry Chef & Owner Marike Van Beurden Consulting Ltd, Hong Kong 甜品厨师及香港 Marike Van Beurden Consulting Ltd 创办人

Richard Ekkebus Culinary Director The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 香港置地文华东方酒店厨 艺总监

Vicky Cheng Chef & Owner VEA Restaurant & Lounge, Hong Kong 香港 VEA 餐厅主厨兼创 办人

Tam Kwok Fung 谭国锋 Head Chef Jade Dragon, City Of Dreams, Macau 澳门新濠天地誉珑轩主厨

May Chow 周思薇 Chef & Owner Little Bao, Hong Kong and Bangkok Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 香港及曼谷小包包餐厅 主厨兼创办人 2017年度最佳女厨师

Michael Pretet Pastry Chef Amber, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong 香港置地文华东方酒店烘 焙主厨

Jay Khan Brand Ambassador Rémy Cointreau, Hong Kong 香港 Rémy Cointreau品 牌大使

Ip Chi Cheung 叶志祥 Former Executive Chinese Chef Summer Palace, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 前任香港港岛香格里拉 大酒店夏宮中餐主厨 DAVID HARTUNG (3)

德国厨房电器品牌 Gaggenau 致 力于打造最高品质的烹饪文化, 以及凝聚追求优质生活的爱好者。 近来它在位于港岛南区的展厅开 办一系列星级大师班烹饪课程, 邀请本地十位名厨授课。

For enrollment details, please call 2890-1522/2890-9111 or email events@kih.com.hk

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TAM KWOK FUNG 谭国锋 HEAD CHEF JADE DRAGON, CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU

CHEF TAM KWOK FUNG is a busy man as Director of Culinary Operations, Food and Beverage, at City of Dreams, Macau. That’s because he also serves as head chef of the renowned two-Michelin-star Jade Dragon. But, after a career of more than thirty years in Cantonese fine dining, one that includes cooking for a long list of international political figures and national presidents, he seems to take it all in stride. His relaxed approach, gentle guidance, and sense of humor were all clearly evident at the Gaggenau Culinary Artisans Masterclass that he recently conducted in Hong Kong. “We all just had a lot of fun,” he says. “We didn’t treat it as a formal ‘class,’ because the participants already knew a lot about good food, but we exchanged our experiences and shared tips for improving dishes and better ways of working.”

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The class watched him demonstrate a variety of dishes, as well as the versatility, precision, and ease-of-use of Gaggenau’s famous professional-level appliances. “We steamed chicken, oven-roasted fish, and stewed wagyu beef cheek,” he explains, “but I also shared my techniques for seasoning, marinating, stir-frying, and even different methods of cutting and basic plating skills.” One Masterclass talking point was how steaming has been used as a Chinese cooking technique for thousands of years. Tam explained that something as simple as steamed wild fish with light soy sauce, spring onion, and coriander leaves can make for an unbeatable dish. Both the chef and his students particularly noted the way Gaggenau’s delicate touch made a perfect cook on the wagyu foolproof: “This beef gets its flavor from

a long stewing time,” says Tam, “and the Gaggenau VI 230 Vario induction cooktop let me adjust the temperature perfectly at all times, from very low to a high level for reducing the sauce.” The dish starts with a marinade of chopped spring onions, ginger, salt, pepper, and ginger powder. Tam adds two spoons of Hua Diao wine before steaming for twenty minutes. After cooling, it’s served as succulent small morsels with a dip of shallots, oil, and soy sauce. Among Tam’s answers to the many questions asked throughout the class, his advice for young chefs stood out as wise words from the vast experience of a master at his art: “Passion! Love what you’re doing, keep an open mind, and do lots of exploring in different ways. Travel to understand other cultures and lifestyles and, most of all, respect the sources of your food.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA


GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

新濠天地餐饮厨艺总监谭国锋身兼米其林 二星餐厅「誉珑轩」主厨,每天行程满档。 谭主厨烹饪精致粤菜超过 30 年,接待过无 数国际政要及国家元首,但不管再忙,他 总是如此从容大度。 最近他也受邀来到「Gaggenau」厨艺 大师班授课,他的那种轻松写意、优雅的 指导及幽默感可说展露无遗。他表示 : 「毕 竟学员都对美食早有涉猎,所以大家都玩 得很开心,不是正襟危坐的那种上课方式。 我们主要是交流彼此的经验,分享如何提 升菜式的美味,以及更有效的烹调方式。」 谭主厨在课堂上示范了多道料理,同 时一展 Gaggenau 知名专业厨房电器的多功 能性、精确性及简便的操作。他说明 : 「我 们做了蒸鸡、烘鱼及焖和牛脸颊,我和大 家分享自己在调味、卤制及快炒的心得, 也有讲到一些切工或基本摆盘技巧。」 中式料理绵延数千年的蒸煮技巧是这 次大师班的一大重点。在他的引导之下, 鲜鱼只需简单加点淡酱油、青葱及芫荽叶, 就能变身无懈可击的美味料理。 主 厨 及 学 员 对 于 Gaggenau 厨 具 应 用 在和牛上的出色效果特别印象深刻,可说 是人人都可以成为料理和牛的专家。他指 出: 「和牛需要长时间焖煮入味,Gaggenau

VI 230 电磁灶具可以随时调温,从极低到 高温收汁,一度不差。」而鸡丝则先用葱段、 姜、盐、胡椒、沙姜粉及花雕酒腌过,再 蒸 20 分钟。放冷后以小份上桌,沾着红葱、 油及酱油享用,清新味美。 谭国锋在课堂上对许多问题的回覆,

均是以粤菜大师之姿、综合多年丰富经历 所得的智慧结晶,也正是年轻厨师都应谨 记的心法 : 「热情!爱你所做、保持开阔的 心胸,用各种不同的方法去探索美味。多 多旅行了解其他文化及生活方式,还有最 重要的,要学会尊重食物的来源。」

Gaggenau Culinary Artisans Masterclass 11 December, 2017 1:00-4:00pm Led by Chef May Chow Chef & Owner of Little Bao, Hong Kong and Bangkok Asia’s Best Female Chef 2017 香港及曼谷小包包餐厅主厨兼 创办人周思薇 2017年度最佳女厨师

KI Island South Galleria 19/F, One Island South 2 Heung Yip Road Steamed Garoupa Fillet on Egg White Custard with Chinese Aged “Hua Diao” Wine Sauce 花雕蛋白蒸海斑球

Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港黄竹坑香叶道2号 One Island South 19楼 along the irrawaddy

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不朽之河

Ageless River A cruise to Irrawaddy’s upper reaches reveals the enduring beauty of a country and its way of life. BY PAUL EHRLICH

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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On a recent mild winter morning, we disembark at last near the highest navigable point of the major river of Myanmar, also known as Burma. Bhamo, just sixty-five kilometers from China in the northernmost part of the country, is a bustling border town of potholed streets jammed with cars, buses, trucks, and motorbikes trailing whirls of dust. Clustered shops offer gold jewelry, jade, clothing, toys, CD knock-offs, and lots of cheap Chinese goods. But the streets also have fine examples of old teak houses and magnificent overhanging trees shading a quaint riverfront. Photographer David Hartung and I have been traveling up the Irrawaddy River on Belmond’s luxury ship Orcaella , named for the endangered snub-nosed dolphins that inhabit the river. Over twelve days, we experience the people of Myanmar, their beliefs, their customs, and their daily existence along one of Asia’s great rivers. From its source in the Himalayan glaciers, the Irrawaddy sweeps down through the heart of Myanmar to the fertile delta region and on into the Andaman Sea. Also called the Ayeyarwady, it is the country’s largest and most important commercial waterway. Of its twenty-two hundred kilometers, as many as fourteen hundred are navigable during the few months of the year when water levels are high enough to allow passage that far.

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一个带点凉意的冬日早晨,在缅甸最主要河川伊洛瓦底江中,船 只只能到达的最上游,于是我们在这里登陆。八莫是缅甸最北方的边境 大城,距离中国仅 65 公里,满布坑洞的街道上交通繁忙,汽车、公车、 卡车和机车来来往往,尘土飞扬。拥挤的商店贩售着金饰、玉器、服装、 玩具、盗版光碟和各式各样的中国廉价商品。市街上也不乏美轮美奂的 柚木屋,河滨树木高大挺拔,树荫为江边添了一份古雅。 我和摄影师 David Hartung 乘着 Belmond 的豪华渡轮 Orcaella, 其命名源自伊洛瓦底江中濒临绝种的瓶鼻海豚。在 12 天的旅程中,我 们认识了缅甸的人们,了解到他们的信仰、习俗,以及探秘身处亚洲著 名河流之一的江边生活。 伊洛瓦底江发源自喜马拉雅冰川,通过缅甸的心脏地带、肥沃的 三角洲,最后流入安达曼海。她是缅甸最庞大的商业水道,长达 2,200 公里,在一年中水位最高的几个月,有 1,400 公里可供航行。


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Mandalay to Katha WE START OUR TRIP SEVERAL DAYS EARLIER in Mandalay, the country’s second-largest city and cultural capital, which we plan to explore on the return journey. Puttering a few hours up the river brings us to the village of Nwe Nyein, known for its high-quality glazed earthenware pottery sold throughout the country. The entire production is handmade by traditional methods, a laborious process carried out in workshops with dusty sunlight filtering through open windows. Young girls in sarongs squat on dirt floors and use their hands, or stand and use their feet, to spin the wooden bases on which men and women shape the moist reddish clay harvested from nearby riverbeds, fashioning everything from small bowls for drinking water or rice to fifty-gallon water pots. Further upriver is the small village of Kyan Hnyat. As we follow a red dirt path past dark-wooden houses on stilts, some with a few chickens scratching around in the dirt, we can hear a rhythmic chorus of children growing nearer. Opening a wooden gate for a peek, we enter. In a classroom with woven bamboo walls, rows of children sit at long wooden tables, reciting in unison from a textbook as a teacher stands listening in the back. Like nearly all of Myanmar’s females, young and old, the girls wear

thanakha , a yellow powdery paste made from ground bark and applied in swirls to cheeks and foreheads as both a sunscreen and a cosmetic. When I offer the familiar word of greeting, maingalarpar , the children respond shyly with smiles and giggles. After sailing on overnight, we come to the lively port town of Katha. A bicycle trishaw takes us to the main market, a labyrinth of narrow passages filled with the pungent smells of colorful spices and offering freshly cut meats, fermented fish, and pastries cooking in bubbling brown oil.

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曼德勒到杰沙

数天前,我们从缅甸的第二大城和文化首府曼德勒出发,我们计划回 程时再好好游赏这座城市。逆流而上数小时后,我们到了名为 Nwe Nyein 的村庄,这里以高品质的上釉陶器闻名全国。陶器遵照传统工 法,制作过程相当费力,阳光由敞开的窗户透进工作坊,扬起的沙尘 清晰可见。穿着纱笼裙的年轻女性蹲在泥地上用手,或站着用脚转动 木制底座,由数名男女以来自附近河床的红色陶土,塑造出包括喝水 吃饭用的小碗,也有容量约 50 加仑的大水缸等,应有尽有。 再往上游走就到了另一座小村落 Kyan Hnyat。我们沿着一条红 色的泥土小路前行,两旁有些深色的高架木屋,屋外有几只鸡四处走 动,越走近,远方孩童富有节奏的歌声越是清晰。我们先从门缝探了 探再走进屋内,这房子是间教室,墙壁由竹子编成,孩童一排排地坐 在长长的木桌前,同声朗诵课本上的内容,教师站在后方聆听。 如同其他缅甸的女性一般,这儿的女性不论老少,双颊和额 头上都涂着塔纳卡,通常是近似螺旋状的图案。塔纳卡是用树皮制 成的金色粉浆,既是化妆品,也是防晒霜。当我用还算熟练的那句 「maingalarpar」打招呼时,孩子们会带着腼腆的微笑回应我。 经过跨夜的航行,我们来到了生气蓬勃的港都杰沙,一位三轮 车夫载着我们到城内最大的市场,错综而窄小的街道里弥漫着各种缤 纷香料辛辣的气味,摊贩们叫卖着新鲜的肉片、腌鱼,以及在沸腾的 油锅中现做的面点。

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Irrawaddy snapshots IN KATHA, we also visit the two-story colonial home that Eric Blair, better known as George Orwell, used as the setting for his novel

Burmese Days . As a member of the Imperial Police, Blair had his last posting at Katha before returning to England in 1927, but the town was called Kyauktada in his anti-colonial work. A number of local sites mentioned in the book still stand, including the British Club, a tennis court, a pagoda, and a prison. As we continue cruising, I watch snapshots of river and rural life slip by: milk-white pagodas with golden spires flashing in the sunlight, women and men in sarongs bathing with their naked kids in the caramel-colored water, a single file of saffron-clad monks walking to a monastery, children in green and white uniforms drifting slowly to school. Fishing boats, cargo ships, and tugs sail past, as well as large freighters loaded with teak logs, bags of cement, or drums of oil. Women in conical bamboo hats sell sweets and fruits, famers plow patchwork fields with oxen, a man waist-deep in the water gracefully casts a fishing net that opens like a fan in the morning light. Thickly forested shorelines are broken only occasionally by lonely villages of bamboo huts on stilts. Soon the boat slows as the river begins to narrow between towering jungle-clad cliffs. The only sounds come from birds and screeching monkeys concealed in untamed foliage. As the ship glides through quiet tropical heat, the lushly vegetated bluffs loom closer. It takes two hours to pass them before we reach our farthest destination, Bhamo. On our return trip downriver, we stop at Weima, a governmentrun elephant camp. Women carry heavy pails of water hung from yokes balanced over their shoulders past work elephants that are being washed in the slow-flowing current. With Myanmar possessing about 75 percent of the world’s teak, most of the mahouts use their animals to help fell the trees and drag the logs to the river for shipment downstream. We travel next to Ma Lae village to witness a Buddhist novitiation ceremony, an important rite of passage for all Burmese boys under twenty by which they become novice monks for a week or more. The young men are carried through town to the temple on decorated palanquins. There, with parents beside them, their heads are shaved and they don burgundy-colored robes.

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伊洛瓦底风情

在杰沙,我们也参观了艾瑞克 • 布莱尔(即乔治 • 欧威尔)的小说《缅甸 岁月》中那栋两层楼高的殖民官邸。布莱尔先生当时是帝国警政署的一员, 杰沙是他执勤的最后一站,他之后于 1927 年回到英国。不过在他那部反 殖民作品中,这座城镇化名为 Kyauktada。小说中提到的数处殖民地点如 今仍存在,包括英军俱乐部、网球场、尖塔和监狱。 我们继续逆流而上,我注意两旁变化万千的风景,也看见当地的农 村生活 :白底金顶的尖塔在阳光下闪耀,穿着纱笼的男男女女带着一丝不 挂的孩童们在褐色的江水中沐浴,一群红衣僧侣朝着寺院鱼贯而行,穿着 白绿色制服的学童左顾右盼,不情愿地去上学。渔船、货船、托船和满载 柚木、水泥袋和油桶的货轮与我们擦身而过。戴着斗笠的女性叫卖着甜品 和水果,农夫领着一头母牛犁着田地,一个男人在水深及腰的湍流里洒出 一道网,在晨曦中优雅地散开。丛林密布的沿岸久久才会出现由几栋竹制 高架屋组成的村庄,在这大河上显得格外寂寥。 船只驶入狭窄的丛林峭壁,航速慢了下来,只听得到茫茫密林中传 出的鸟鸣和嘈杂的猿啼,却看不见动物们的身影。我们慢慢滑过寂静无声 的炎热空气, 前方的一片苍翠渐渐逼近。我们花了两小时才通过这片绿林, 抵达我们最终的目的地 — 巴莫。 我们回程时在威玛停留了一下,这是座国营的大象农场。女人们用 扁担挑着沉重的水桶,与在缓慢的河流中洗澡、为人们提供劳力的象只 擦身而过。缅甸拥有全世界百分之七十五的柚木,人们常利用兽力协助伐 木,将木材运送到河边方便送至下游。 我们接着到 Ma Lae 村参访佛教的剃度仪式,20 岁以下的缅甸男性 在这个仪式后的一周即成为入门僧侣。 随后,他们乘坐布置华美的轿子 前往寺庙,在父母的陪伴下剃去头发,穿上酒红色的长袍。 along the irrawaddy

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So many temples AS THE SHIP SAILS ON in the afternoon’s hazy light, there’s a rush to deck when someone suddenly calls out “dolphins!” A dark arching back breaks the water, then another and several more. It’s a rare sighting – only about sixty of the species are estimated to still swim the Irrawaddy. With the trip nearing its end, I wake up to the first rainy morning. The sky is low, heavy, and grey. Through open cabin windows, the air is as warm and humid as a used teabag. But by mid-morning, the sun begins to sparkle on the water, and the sky clears as we drop anchor at Mandalay. So many temples, so little time. With just one day, we visit some of the most famous. Shwenandaw Monastery, of finely carved teak, was built as a royal apartment for King Mindon. Kuthodaw Pagoda, with more than seven hundred white stupas, is known for having “the world’s largest book,” a series of Buddhist texts carved on marble slabs that measure 153 by 107 centimeters. The star attraction is Mahamuni Paya, one of Burma’s most important pilgrimage sites, possessing the country’s most revered image of the Buddha. Believed to be two thousand years old, it’s been covered in tons of gold leaf over the centuries, except for its gleaming face, which legend claims is a faithful likeness of Gautama Buddha. Our temple tour ends with the sunset at nearby Taungthaman Lake, which is spanned by a unique bridge made from more than a thousand teak columns. On our last day, we sail to our final destination, Bagan. It was originally the capital of the Kingdom of Pagan, whose rulers built between four thousand and ten thousand temples from the eleventh to the thirteenth centuries. Today, scattered across eighty square kilometers of flat plain are the remains of about twenty-five hundred, the largest collection of Buddhist monuments in the world. Late that afternoon, with the last radiance of reds and oranges flooding across the sky, I see in the dying glow the silhouette of a woman at the edge of a pagoda’s highest terrace. Her meditative yoga pose, known as Lord of the Dance, brings a peaceful and eternal quality to the scene, making my recent cruise along a river seem like a timeless journey through an unchanging past.

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林立的庙宇

船只在下午和煦的阳光下平静地航行,突然船身一震,有人大喊 : 「是海 豚!」一个个流线型的黑色背脊跃出水面,真是难得一见的光景,据统计 只有大约 60 只海豚在伊洛瓦底的水域中悠游着。 在旅程接近尾声时,我们遇见了第一个下雨的早晨,乌云密布笼罩 着四周。从窗户透进来的空气既温暖又潮湿,就像刚冲泡过的茶包。不过 到了九点左右,太阳又探出了头,如金粉般洒上河面,我们停泊在曼德勒 时恰好云淡风轻。 寺庙太多,时间太少,我们只好把握一天的时间造访最有名的几间。 瑞南多寺由精致的柚木建成,曾是敏东王的皇居。古都陶佛塔拥有超过

700 座白色小塔,一系列刻在大理石上的佛经长宽各为 153 及 107 公分, 被称为「世界上最大的佛经书」 。 马哈牟尼佛塔则是另一个著名景点,缅甸的朝觐圣地,拥有国内最 多人膜拜的佛像。几个世纪以来,祂的身上覆着无数的金色叶子,脸庞闪 耀着光辉,据传祂是释迦牟尼的金身。我们的佛寺之旅以东塔漫湖边的落 日画下句点,这里有座由数千根柚木筑成的桥梁,令人惊叹。 旅程的最后一天,我们航向最终目的地 — 蒲甘。它原本是蒲甘王国 的首都,统治者于 11 至 13 世纪间建立了 4,000 至 10,000 座寺庙。今天 在 80 平方公里的平原上仅存约 2,500 座,不过这里仍是世上佛教文物最 丰富的地方。 那天傍晚,落日的余晖把天空染成橘红,在微光下隐约看见一位女 性站在尖塔的最高层平台,做着被称为舞王式的瑜珈动作,让这一幕添了 平静,成为永恒。我的大江之旅似乎成为一段在时间长河中的无尽之旅。

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超乎想象缅甸之味

unexpected burmese A Thai chef creatively explores the flavors of Myanmar. BY MAMIE CHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

Banana blossom salad with grilled scallop, coriander, crispy onion, garlic, ground peanuts, and lime-chili dressing 香蕉花沙拉配烧扇贝、芫荽、脆洋葱、 香蒜、花生、及莱姆辣椒制成的酱汁

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Of all the fruits, mango’s best. 所有水果中,芒果最棒。

Of all the meats, pork is best. 所有肉类中,猪肉最佳。

Of all the leaves, laphet’s best. 所有叶类中,腌茶叶最优。

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AS A NATIVE OF THAILAND, Bansani Nawisamphan, the executive chef of Belmond Governor’s Residence, didn’t grow up hearing the popular Burmese jingle extolling some of the country’s favorite foods, but there’s no question she agrees whole-

身 为 土 生 土 长 的 泰 国 人,Belmond Governor’s

heartedly with the first two lines, at least. She’ll wax poetic, for instance, over the lush, sweet mango variety known as diamond solitaire or Sein Ta Lone, and she describes with gusto her nine-hour slow-cooked pork ribs marinated in Asian spices. But she has to admit that when she first arrived in Burma in 2012 as chef of Belmond’s river-cruise ship Road to Mandalay , she wasn’t initially won over by the country’s famous laphet thoke , or pickled tea leaf salad. “I asked myself why, when I could see that everyone else was crazy about it,” says Nawisamphan. “There must be something I’m missing. So, one day I asked my staff to make it the way they eat it with their families, not the way they make it for guests. Oh, was that good!” Upon investigation, Nawisamphan realized that they’d been replacing the fish oil with salt and lowering the spice level out of misplaced concern that guests wouldn’t accept the original. “‘No, no, no, no, no,’ I insisted, ‘you must serve this version to the guests!’ And now, the more I eat it, the more I love it,” she says. Nawisamphan has always taken great delight in discovering the local cuisine, finding inspiration in its flavors and ingredients and introducing them to the Belmond menus, first on the cruise ships Road to Mandalay and Orcaella and now at Governor’s Residence. Like the laphet thoke, many dishes are presented in their authentic form, while others are modified to suit foreign palates.

之百赞同。多汁香甜的 Sein Ta Lone 芒果在缅语

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Residence 的 行 政 主 厨 Bansani Nawisamphan 不 像其他缅甸人一样,从小听这首赞扬国民美食的 缅甸诗歌长大,但至少歌词前两句,她算是百分 中称为「一颗钻石」或「圣德龙」 。Bansani 融汇 诗意,先用各式亚洲香料腌渍猪肋排,然后在九 小时慢煮之后,再把 Sein Ta Lone 芒果融入猪肋 排之中。

2012 年,Bansani 获邀到缅甸担任 Belmond 豪华游轮 Road to Mandalay 的主厨。她坦言,当 时对于知名国民料理腌茶叶沙拉的受欢迎程度百 思不得其解。她说 : 「看到大家为了腌茶叶沙拉如 此疯狂,我头上满是问号,这一定还有自己没搞 懂的地方。有天我特别请员工不要按照给客人料 理的方式,而是按照他在家里煮的方式做了一盘 给我。当时我吃了之后觉得简直惊为天人,太棒 了!」 经过调查,Bansasni 发现厨师因为误以为客 人无法接受原本的味道,于是才用盐取代鱼油, 同时减少辣度。她坚持这是不必要的作法,并要 「现在吃习 求团队给客人享用「原版」 。她强调 : 惯了,简直越吃越好吃。 」

Bansani 喜欢挖掘地方料理,并乐此不疲,期 待从不同风味及食材中寻找灵感,再放入 Belmond 的菜单中。她先是将新元素加在 Belmond 河上游 轮 Road to Mandalay 及 Orcaella 上,现在则加进 Belmond Governor’s Residence 菜单。如同像腌茶 叶沙拉,许多菜都是原汁原味地上桌,但也有一些 稍微改良成适合外国人的口味。


Laphet thoke (pickled tea leaf salad) 腌茶叶沙拉


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Oven-baked salmon with pea pureé, king oyster mushrooms, bell peppers, and edamame 烤鲑鱼配豌豆泥、杏鲍菇、甜椒和毛豆

Pickled tea leaf focaccia 腌茶叶佛卡夏面包

Passion fruit curd with mango ice cream, whipped cream, chocolate crumbles, and hazelnut tuile Executive Chef Bansani Nawisamphan 行政主厨 Bansani Nawisamphan

百香果冻伴芒果冰淇淋、奶 油、巧克力酥和榛子薄饼

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Tiffin lunch set of (clockwise from top) pork with sweet mango curry, pennywort salad, and prawn curry with melon 午餐套餐包括(从顶部顺时针方向)猪肉配甜 芒果咖喱,石莲花沙拉和咖喱虾配甜瓜


MYANMAR

Grilled pork marinated with pickled tea leaf for twenty-four hours 以腌茶叶腌制24小时的烧猪柳

The ingredients featured in her banana salad faithfully match those of a traditional Burmese recipe: raw banana blossoms, crispy garlic, fried shallots, fresh coriander, peanuts, fish sauce, and a lime-chili dressing. Yet the flavors at Governor’s Residence are stronger and more vibrant than what might be typically found at a local restaurant. “I sometimes give things a little twist,” she says. For tastes that find the raw banana blossoms too bitter, Nawisamphan adds an extra squeeze or two of lime, another drop or so of fish sauce, and a supplemental kick of chili to balance things out with equal notes of sour, salt, and heat. The scallop that Nawisamphan adds to the salad is unusual in a Burmese dish and perfectly illustrates her penchant for subtle innovations to the local cuisine. While helming Road to Mandalay’s kitchen, she suggested they try making pickled-tea-leaf focaccia bread. “We normally make it with tomatoes, herbs, bacon, onions, olives, whatever,” she says. “Why not tea leaf? So we tried it and served it to guests. Now we make it here at Governor’s Residence as well.” Her staff, inspired by Nawisamphan’s creative approach to their cherished national dish, asked if they could try making a curry with pickled tea leaf, which eventually evolved into duck with tea leaf curry. Most recently, she began using pickled tea leaf in a twentyfour-hour marinade for chicken or pork that’s grilled over a charcoal flame. “It’s good to give people something they don’t expect,” she says. “But I’ve been here at Governor’s Residence for just three months, so I can’t take it too far out. And of course, the food has to match the atmosphere of the hotel. But the most important thing is to focus on the guest, find out what they’re looking for, and deliver the right experience.” along the irrawaddy

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Sponge cake layered with coconut ice cream, fresh mango, and mango ice cream, then covered with mango jelly and topped with shaved coconut 海绵蛋糕由椰子冰淇淋、新鲜芒果和芒果冰淇淋组成,覆盖芒果果冻和椰子片

Bansani 的香蕉沙拉中使用的食材可说是忠实呈现 传统的缅甸作法 :生香蕉花、蒜头酥、红葱酥、新鲜芫 荽、花生、鱼露及莱姆辣椒做成的酱汁。不过比起其他 地方餐厅,Belmond Governor’s Residence 这道菜的口 味更重、更有活力。她表示 : 「我就喜欢来一点变化。 」 有人觉得生香蕉花太苦,于是 Bansani 多挤了些莱姆汁、 加多一点鱼露,同时也加了辣椒,让酸、咸及辣等多种 口味以达到完美平衡。 同时,沙拉中放入扇贝这种做法在缅甸料理中相 当少见,却也足见主厨注入地方菜色时的细腻巧思。坐 镇河上游轮 Road to Mandalay 的厨房时,她首开先例, 提议用腌茶叶制作佛卡夏面包。她说 : 「一般都是用番 茄、草本植物、培根、洋葱和橄榄等材料,但我想何不 试试用茶叶呢?所以我们就尝试了,还端上桌给客人享 用。 现 在 若 你 来 Belmond Governor’s Residence 也 能 品尝得到。 」 看着 Bansani 以创意手法改良备受喜爱的传统缅 甸料理,团队们也大受启发,提出用腌茶叶制作咖喱的 想法。几经尝试后,他们终于开发成新菜-腌茶叶咖喱 鸭肉。近来她则是把脑筋动到卤汁上,把腌茶叶加在

24 小时熬制的特别卤汁中,做成搭配碳烤鸡肉或猪肉 的酱汁。 她兴奋指出 : 「能为客人制造出乎意料的效果真好。 不 过 我 加 盟 Belmond Governor’s Residence 才 3 个 月 而已,还不能玩得太夸张。毕竟,餐点要能与酒店的氛 围一致才行。但不管如何,客人才是重点所在,我们要 Steamed basa fish with lemongrass, basil, ginger, garlic, and noni leaf 蒸巴沙鱼伴柠檬草、罗勒、 生姜、大蒜和诺丽叶

找到他们的喜好,带给他们最好的体验。 」 along the irrawaddy

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Fine de Claire no. 3 oyster topped with fennel foam and pastis granita 法国芬蒂克劳3号生蚝配茴香泡 沫和茴香格兰尼它冰糕

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缅甸分子料理

defying expectations An Italian maestro brings a modern culinary touch to a classic Burmese hotel. BY MAMIE CHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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A LONG TEAK TABLE’S beautiful natural grain is burnished to a silky sheen that invites a lingering gaze and a soft caress of the fingertips. The elegant piece was handcrafted by a local carpenter using antique wood reclaimed from the recent complete renovation of Myanmar’s legendary colonial hotel, The Strand Yangon, built in 1901. The table first served at the hotel’s sister property as a focal point of La Table du Strand, a pop-up restaurant created to capitalize on the anticipated reopening of The Strand in late 2016. The short-term venue served to introduce The Strand Restaurant’s new executive chef, Christian Martena, and to showcase his distinctive style of modern Mediterranean cuisine. Today, the table sits under a sparkling chandelier and ornate black-and-gold lacquer panels from Bagan in a private dining room of The Strand Restaurant. There it serves as a kind of metaphor for Martena’s culinary approach, which combines an abiding devotion to authentic, natural products and a respectful acknowledgment of tradition, enlivened by an imaginative contemporary flair. “My style,” he explains, “is to source great ingredients, cook them well, and add a modern twist of different textures or new ways of experiencing the components.” While keeping to classic Mediterranean flavor profiles, he uses local ingredients wherever possible, sourcing vegetables from

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柚木长桌上美丽的天然纹理透出丝般的光 泽,让人无法移开目光,不住用指尖轻拂。 仰光斯特兰德酒店 (The Strand Yangon) 近 来全新改装 , 这风格高雅的长桌则由本地 木匠使用酒店改装剩下的老木头手工打造 而成。这家极具传奇色彩的缅甸殖民风酒 店于 1901 年落成,历史相当悠久。 长 桌 原 是 快 闪 餐 厅「La Table du Strand」的一大亮点。快闪餐厅「La Table du Strand」既是仰光斯特兰德酒店的姐妹 餐厅,也是仰光酒店在 2016 年底重新开幕 的前奏曲,还让大众对于仰光酒店的再次 亮相更加引颈期盼。同时,快闪餐厅更负 责介绍酒店内「The Strand Restaurant」餐 厅的新任行政主厨 Christian Martena,让 他展现独树一帜的现代风地中海料理。 目前,在「The Strand Restaurant」内 的私人用餐区域,长桌置于光彩夺目的水 晶吊灯和来自蒲甘地区的黑金双色漆木隔 板之下。这也正好是主厨烹调哲学的写照。 Christian 在烹饪时选用道地天然食材,尊 重传统的同时,也发挥想像注入当代元素。 他解释道 : 「我的风格就是找好的食材、用 心烹调,透过呈献不同的口感来特显现代 风的元素,或体验不同材料的崭新作法。」 忠于纯正地中海风味的同时,主厨也 尽其所能使用本地食材,向东缅甸掸邦茵 莱湖附近的有机农场采购蔬菜,海鲜则从 西缅甸的若开邦直送。若开邦海鲜种类之 丰富,对于 Christian 来说是个意外的惊喜。 品质一流的明虾、龙虾及章鱼等优质海鲜, 半天之内即可送达仰光。 快闪店客人对于新口味的回响极大,


Pan-seared red mullet with a Mediterranean sauce emulsion of tomatoes, capers, anchovies, potatoes, and olives 煎红鲻鱼佐以番茄、刺山柑、凤尾鱼、土豆和橄榄制成的地中海风味酱汁

也 让 主 厨 决 定 在「The Strand Restaurant」 餐点中大胆融入晶球化、 乳化、 泡沫、 海绵化及液态氮等当代烹调技巧。但不 管最后呈现的方式如何,保留食材的原 汁原味仍是重点所在。 主厨的前菜布拉塔起司沙拉以意式 卡布里番茄为灵感,呈现酥脆、粉质及慕 斯三种口感,番茄三吃搭配巴萨黑醋球、 罗勒泡沫及绵密的手拉丝翠奇亚起司。 主厨的红鲱鱼则走完全不同的路 线,搭配美味的乳状酱汁,可谓是利佛 诺 渔 夫 炖 海 鲜 (cacciucco alla livornese) 的改良版。虽没有用上任何分子料理技 巧,但它的摆盘依旧现代风十足,相当 赏心悦目。他将传统炖鱼的步骤拆解, 经过烹煮、收汁、混和及过筛后,散发 浓浓地中海气息的浓郁汤酱就完成了。

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他表示 : 「很多人觉得一定要到香港或 曼谷才吃得到这种当代料理,所以来到 我们餐厅时总是惊喜不已。出乎他人意 料,超越预期,让这道菜在仰光显得更 有价值。」 餐厅提供单点菜式,但大多数客人 倾向选择招牌菜满载的四式套餐或是地 中海海洋风的主厨六式套餐,这样便可 以品尝到 Christian 对于各地区料理的 独特诠释,像是以葡萄牙法鲁进口的刀 蛏制作西班牙料理,以及西班牙南部小 镇马拉加的白冻汤等。他期望地中海料 理不仅限于意大利或法国,还要更进一 步带进希腊、土耳其及突尼西亚的口味 及食材。他开心表示 : 「随着可以运用 的材料越来越多,我的想像力就越来越 丰富,飞到更高的境界。」


Burrata salad served with a trilogy of tomato crisps, powder, and mousse, balsamic caviar, pesto, and Ibérico ham 布拉塔乳酪配香醋鱼子酱、香蒜酱、伊比利亚 火腿和番茄三重奏-番茄脆片、粉末和慕斯

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Tortelli stuffed with liquid foie gras, potato velouté, panfried seasonal mushrooms, and duck consommé 意大利饺子的内饀是液态鹅肝,土豆奶油,煎蘑菇和鸭肉汤

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An amuse-bouche of spherified black olives atop a dehydrated wafer of tomato purée 主厨在脱水的番茄酱薄饼上放上黑橄 榄,为这道餐前小吃添上趣味。

an organic farm near Inle Lake in Shan State in eastern Myanmar and seafood from Rakhine State on the west coast. In fact, Martena was pleasantly surprised to discover the plentiful variety of seafood available, from prawns to lobster to octopus, all of high quality and delivered to Yangon within half a day of emerging from the ocean. Responding to positive reactions from guests of the pop-up to his novel textures, Martena has boldly incorporated modern techniques involving spherification, emulsions, foams, sponges, and liquid nitrogen into The Strand Restaurant’s offerings. But the focus is always on preserving the authentic flavors of the products, regardless of the final forms of delivery. Martena’s burrata salad starter, inspired by a Caprese classic, features a trilogy of tomato textures in the form of crisps, powder, and mousse accompanied by balsamic caviar, basil foam, and creamy, hand-pulled stracciatella. In contrast, the red mullet with a savory sauce emulsion, Martena’s interpretation of cacciucco alla livornese, doesn’t leverage a single molecular

technique but is still beautifully modern in presentation. He combines all the elements of the traditional fish stew by boiling, reducing, blending, and straining them into a thick sauce bursting with Mediterranean flavors. “People think you must go to Hong Kong or Bangkok to experience this type of modern cuisine,” says Martena, “and so they’re very surprised when they discover it in our restaurant. I think defying expectations makes this food even more valued in Yangon.” An à la carte menu is available, but the majority of guests opt for either the four-course tasting menu of signature dishes or a six-course Mediterraneanvoyage tasting menu that presents Martena’s modern interpretations of regional favorites, including Spanish ones like razor clams from Faro and ajoblanco from Malaga. “My goal,” he says, “is to open the range of Mediterranean cuisine beyond Italian and French and bring in flavors or ingredients from Greece, Turkey, Tunisia. With more products to work with, our inspiration can reach greater heights.” along the irrawaddy

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guardians of authenticity Casa Don Alfonso champions the classic culinary heritage of Italy’s southern coast.

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

正统「意式」护卫队


Mario Iaccarino


PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

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Alfonso Iaccarino 是 那 种 踏 踏 实 实 的 厨 师, 会在清晨五点到路边拦截赶去市集的渔夫。 当奥丰素 1890 意式料理是知名的家族企业, 也是自十九世纪以来,意大利阿玛菲海岸的 地标。身为这家知名餐厅的创始人,Alfonso 总是抢先一步挑选渔夫们的新鲜渔获。 Alfonso 的曾孙 Mario Iaccarino 现在担 任 Don Alfonso 餐厅的顾问。Mario 介绍说: 「整个地区都知道 Alfonso 选用的是顶级食 材。人们甚至会开一个半小时的车从薄饼 的故乡那不勒斯来吃他的薄饼,要知道没 有那不勒斯人会为了薄饼而出城!」 Alfonso 对品质始终如一的坚持是整个 Iaccarino 家族致力保留的无形资产。位于澳 门新葡京酒店的 Casa Don Alfonso 餐厅已在 十一月重新开幕。作为当奥丰素 1890 意式 料理的转身,Casa Don Alfonso 餐厅将为食 客带来休闲家庭式的用餐体验,也将提供道 地的意大利佳肴,道道都是可追溯到几世纪 前的经典菜式。Mario 说 : 「食材的品质至关 重要,这是我曾祖父给我们的教诲。他全情 投入在创造出最棒的菜肴,更强调无论要付 出多大代价,让客人满意都是最重要的。 」 Mario 认为,许多现代厨师都只着眼未 来,相较之下 Don Alfonso 的餐厅哲学显得 更加面面俱到。他说 : 「我们悠久的烹饪文

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Pizza diavola 番茄水牛乳酪香肠薄饼

It’s only fitting that Casa Don Alfonso’s specially recruited pizzaiolo, Chef Maurizio Ferrini, is from Naples, pizza’s birthplace. He tops his pizza diavola with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Italian sausage, black olives, and fresh basil. It bakes in the electric Scugnizzonapoletano oven in less than a minute. “You shouldn’t feel full after a real pizza,” says Favero. “The dough should be light and fluffy and slightly chewy.” Casa Don Alfonso 餐厅特别招募了来自 薄饼故乡那不勒斯的 Maurizio Ferrini 主 厨来担任薄饼师傅。他使用圣马尔札诺 番茄、水牛乳酪、意大利香肠、黑橄榄 以及新鲜罗勒作为薄饼的馅料。再放入

Scugnizzo napoletano 烤炉烧烤一分钟 「真正的薄饼 内即可出炉。Claudio 说 : 吃完是不会感到饱胀的,薄饼面团应该 要轻盈蓬松带有一点咬劲。 」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

ALFONSO IACCARINO was the type of exacting chef who’d meet fishermen on the road as they made their way to market at five in the morning. As founder of Don Alfonso 1890, the famous family-owned restaurant that has been a landmark along the Amalfi Coast since the nineteenth century, he wanted to be first in line to select from the best of their catch. “He was very well known in the region for top-quality ingredients,” says his greatgrandson, Mario Iaccarino of Don Alfonso Consulting. “People would drive an hour and a half from Naples, the home of pizza, to eat one of his. Nobody leaves Naples for pizza!” Alfonso’s time-honored commitment to quality is something the Iaccarino family is dedicated to preserving. In November, Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau’s outpost of Don Alfonso 1890 reopened as Casa Don Alfonso, a casual family dining experience with a fresh new focus on authentic Italian cuisine, classic dishes with origins that trace back centuries. “The most crucial thing that my greatgrandfather taught us,” says Mario, “is the


Pan-fried scallops ​ with cardoncelli mushrooms 香煎带子配杏鲍磨菇

Chef Favero serves these Hokkaido scallops with seasonal cardoncelli mushrooms. “Many Chinese diners like their scallops with mushrooms,” he says, “and I agree that they’re perfect with seafood.” Similar to porcini, cardoncelli have a firm and meaty texture, white flesh with a darker cap, and subtle flavor and aroma. Claudio 主厨以季节杏鲍磨菇来搭配北海道带子。他说 : 「许多华人饕客喜欢用蘑菇来配带子,我也认为蘑菇与海 鲜确实是天作之合。 」与牛肝菌相似,杏鲍磨菇同样 有非常厚实多肉的质地、雪白的菇柄与黑实 的菇伞,还有微妙的口味与香气。


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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Chef de Cuisine Claudio Favero


PRESENTED BY GRAND LISBOA MACAU

importance of excellent ingredients. He was totally dedicated to good food, and he stressed that, whatever the cost or sacrifice, we must always make our guests happy.” Many contemporary chefs, according to Mario, keep their eyes only on the future, but Don Alfonso’s philosophy is more thoughtful. “Each year, we seem to lose more and more of our culinary heritage,” he says. “It’s so important to look back as well as forward. We have an immense legacy to preserve – not only recipes, but family-owned production facilities, farms, factories. We want to express the way people were eating thirty or forty or fifty years ago. We want to preserve the traditions of our country.” Casa Don Alfonso’s Chef de Cuisine, Claudio Favero, has been part of the Don Alfonso family since 2003. Not long out of culinary school, he joined the Michelinstarred flagship restaurant as chef de partie under Mario’s father, Alfonso Iaccarino, the venue’s renowned master chef and a pioneer of the Mediterranean diet. Today, they still work closely, creating new dishes together and curating the menu at Casa Don Alfonso. The newly transformed restaurant faithfully represents the house of Don Alfonso, a place for guests to feel at home and to enjoy not only fine food, Mario explains, but gracious hospitality as well. “Casa Don Alfonso has adapted to the world here in Macau,” he says. “We want to preserve our Italian traditions, of course, but it’s also very important to preserve the heritage of Grand Lisboa Hotel.” The result is a genuine interplay of Chinese and Italian cultures, a concept that’s hardly new. Ingredients that were first traded along the Silk Road thousands of years ago have heavily influenced Italian cuisine. “Some of the building blocks of the Mediterranean diet,” says Mario, “are foods that were brought from the Middle East, the Far East, China. Italian spaghetti is most likely the descendent of ancient Asian noodles. It’s a fusion of influences, and Casa Don Alfonso wants to carry on that rich cultural exchange.”

Spaghetti Don Alfonso 特色意大利粉 Simple, classic, clean, and light, declares chef Favero of Casa Don Alfonso’s top signature dish. Using 100 percent Italian ingredients, Favero cooks the pasta in oil and garlic before topping it with southern Italian tomatoes. These famed San Marzano heirlooms thrive in the rich volcanic soil of Campania. Fleshier and less acidic than most varieties, they’re known for their full-bodied flavor.

简单、经典、俐落、轻盈,形容的就 是 这 道 Casa Don Alfonso 餐 厅 主 厨

Claudio 的 招 牌 餐 点。Claudio 使 用 百 分之百的意大利食材,将意大利粉与 香蒜和油拌煮后,再用南意大利番茄 作点缀。这种世界闻名的圣玛尔札诺 番茄生长在坎帕尼亚区的火山土壤上, 个头比较大,也没其他种类那么酸, 以浓郁的味道而闻名。 along the irrawaddy

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Veal osso buco with saffron risotto

Sfogliatella napoletana 驰名 ”Neapolitan” 脆叶酿玉桂忌廉及櫻桃

牛仔膝配红花意大利饭

An Italian classic, this satisfying dish is one of Casa Don Alfonso’s most requested. The braised veal shank is slow-cooked for eight hours with an assortment of seasonal vegetables and tomatoes and served over a bed of saffron risotto in a copper pan. Chef Favero tops the veal with the traditional accompaniment, a gremolata of parsley and lemon zest that adds a touch of freshness to a hearty dish. 这道让人心满意足的意式经典,是 Casa

Don Alfonso 餐厅最炙手可热的餐点。其 中,炖牛仔膝与季节时蔬和番茄一同慢 煮八个小时,再以红花意大利饭为底, 以铜制平底锅端到客人面前。Claudio 主 厨更在牛仔膝上放上香菜与柠檬皮制成

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

的香料,为这道丰盛佳肴添上一抹清香。

A signature dessert at Don Alfonso 1890 for over twenty-five years, this flaky delight has also become a popular favorite in Macau. Traditionally filled with ricotta, Casa Don Alfonso’s version of the classic fan-shaped pastry is filled with a light cinnamon cream and accompanied by a sauce made with black cherries direct from Don Alfonso’s organic farm.

化似乎正在逐年消失。 『回顾过去,展望未 来』是非常重要的。我们需要守护巨大的 遗产,这不光是食谱,还包括家族经营的 生产设施、农场以及工厂。我们想要重现 三十年前、四十年前,甚至是五十年前的 饮食文化。我们想要传承这个国家的传统。 」 Casa Don Alfonso 餐 厅 的 行 政 主 厨 Claudio Favero 与 Don Alfonso 家族的渊源 始 于 2003 年。 刚 从 厨 艺 学 校 毕 业 不 久, Claudio 便到米其林星级旗舰餐厅担任二 厨。 当 时 Mario 的 父 亲 Alfonso Iaccarino 是地中海饮食的先锋,同时是该餐厅的主 厨,更是 Claudio 的顶头上司。时至今日, 他们俩人仍然合作无间,一起为 Casa Don Alfonso 餐厅创造新菜式及设计菜单。 全 新 转 型 的 餐 厅 忠 实 地 呈 现 了 Don

这是一道在当奥丰素 1890 意式料理 屹立超过二十五年的招牌甜点,这种 层层相叠的精致也掳获了澳门人的心。 传统上,这种千层酥会用乳酪作馅料, 但 Casa Don Alfonso 餐厅则改用轻盈 的肉桂奶油还有 Don Alfonso 自家农 场的有机黑樱桃果酱代替,更添滋味。

Alfonso 的风格。除了让顾客感到舒适自在 并享受这里的食物之外,Mario 更强调来 到全新的餐厅,顾客绝对能感受到老板的 好客与亲切。Mario 说,「Casa Don Alfonso 已经融入澳门的文化。我们想尽可能保留 我们的意大利传统,但新葡京酒店的习俗 也不能罔顾。」这样的冲击下产生的火花便 是中华与意大利文化的结合,这两者也算 是老搭档了。 几千年前,流通在丝路上的食材就深 深地影响了意大利的饮食文化。Mario 表示: 「一部分地中海饮食,就是以中东、远东与 中国的食物作为基底。例如,意大利粉最 可能起源自古时候的亚洲面食。这是一种 文 化 影 响 的 大 融 合, 而 Casa Don Alfonso 想传承的便是这样丰富的文化交流。」 along the irrawaddy

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PRESENTED BY PIRATA GROUP

「肉」罢不能

honest dining One of SoHo’s newest restaurants puts the accent on done-to-perfection meats served with informal flair.

declares Paddy McDermott, head chef at MEATS, the innovative recent arrival to Hong Kong’s lively SoHo district. “One of my frustrations with it is that it’s always a bit pretentious. The environment should be just as important as the food, and makes a difference.” Manuel Palacio, one of the restaurant’s founders, adds, “The whole idea behind MEATS is that it’s very casual dining.” He and business partner Christian Talpo originated the concept. “The inspiration,” says Palacio, “was simply this: can we do a great restaurant where people can have cuts that are a little bit unconventional?” Palacio and Talpo, the dynamic duo behind the highly successful Pirata Group, are the creators of Italian restaurant Pirata, Spanish-themed The Optimist, and the uber-trendy Japanese-Peruvian TokyoLima. With MEATS, they’re shifting their attention to what they say is an unfilled niche in the market: a meat-focused restaurant that lets diners sample rarely offered cuts in a relaxed atmosphere.

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“FOR ME, ‘FINE DINING’ IS ALMOST DEAD,”


Smoked Brisket Pastrami: pickled cucumber, beer mustard 煙熏牛胸肉 :酸青 瓜,啤酒芥末酱

Rotisserie Chicken: MEATS chicken sauce

串烤香鸡:MEATS 特制烤雞醬

Iberian Porchetta: green herb salsa 炉烤伊比利猪: 香草莎莎醬

Chicken Liver Pâté: PX vinegar, cocoa nibs, brioche 鸡肝肉酱 :PX葡萄醋、 可可碎豆及布里欧


The team has a lot of collective experience. Talpo has been part of the industry in Hong Kong for more than twenty years. It was when he was serving as COO of Aqua Restaurant Group that he met Palacio, who was a manager there. Scottish native McDermott has been working with the pair for almost a year and was previously part of the team at Pirata. The menu at MEATS, which offers a generous selection designed especially for small-group dining, is a collaborative effort among the team. “We sit down,” says Palacio, “and drive the ideas and the direction,

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putting the pieces together. Once we have the skeleton of a menu, we start working with our chef.” McDermott explains that many of the dishes were inspired by his travels over the last seven years and adds, “We have a great working relationship.” A custom-built rotisserie from France takes center stage in the restaurant’s open kitchen. Alongside it is the equipment for the in-house smoking of meats like pastrami and bacon. Cooking techniques, says McDermott, are both traditional and modern, sometimes including sous vide “just to get the extra tenderness out of the

product.” The chef enjoys giving new life to “forgotten” cuts: “For me, the secondary ones are often tastier and more interesting.” The space that MEATS occupies was one that Talpo was long familiar with: “I always liked that it’s the first thing you see as you come up from Graham Street,” he says. When it became available, the partners snapped it up and enlisted Melbourne interior designer Samantha Eades, a personal friend of Palacio’s, to create an industrialchic space of exposed walls lined with paintings. “We wanted to give the impression of a rediscovered site,” Talpo explains. “You


PRESENTED BY PIRATA GROUP

MEATS’ “rediscovered” interior design by Samantha Eades MEATS 餐厅的「老屋新生」设计概念由室内设计师Samantha Eades 操刀

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Head Chef Paddy McDermott

walk into an empty shell and have these beautiful antique walls and you build the restaurant around it. In Hong Kong, especially, this is very hard to find.” An authentic dining experience always remains the central focus at MEATS. “We’re very big believers in honest dining,” says Talpo. “What you see is what you get – it’s as simple as that.” McDermott agrees: “You can have wonderful food in a stuffy environment, and that can absolutely spoil it. But we deliver great food in cordial and relaxed surroundings that enhance every bite.”

香港熙来攘往的苏豪区最近又有新面孔进 驻-标榜创新型态的餐厅「MEATS」主 厨 Paddy McDermott 表 示 : 「 对 我 来 说, 精致美食已经快走到尽头了,那般矫揉造 作我还是无法习惯。用餐环境的重要性不 亚于餐点,也有关键性的影响力。」 餐厅创始人之一 Manuel Palacio 在一 旁补充: 「餐厅的中心思想便是随性用餐。」 据了解这个想法最初是由他及事业合作伙 伴 Christian Talpo 共 同 构 思 的。Manuel 表示 : 「灵感再简单不过 :能不能开间好 餐厅,提供不走传统路线的肉类料理,让 客人大快朵颐一番?」 Manuel 及 Christian 这对组合在商场 无往不利,创办的 Pirata 集团大获成功, 为意大利餐厅「Pirata」 、西班牙主题餐厅 「The Optimist」以及时尚日式秘鲁风餐厅 「TokyoLima」的幕后舵手。打造「MEATS」 主要着眼于目前还没有人触及的市场 :气 氛轻松的全肉类餐厅,让客人有机会品尝 他处难寻的罕见部位。 这个经营团队的餐饮经验相当丰 富,Christian 在香港餐饮界历练超过 20 年,后于担任 Aqua 餐饮集团营运长时结 识时任集团经理的 Manuel。苏格兰出身 的 Paddy 与双人组工作近一年,之前曾于 Pirata 团队服务。 「MEATS」特别针对小型团客,有相 当丰富的肉类料理可供选择。菜单发想为 团队努力合作的结果,Michael 形容 : 「大 伙坐下来后开始提出想法及方向,再一片 片组合起来。有了基本架构之后,就开始

和厨师一起合作。」Paddy 透露,很多道 菜与他过去七年的旅行经验有关。他也自 豪表示 : 「我们合作起来特别有默契。」 餐厅开放式厨房正中间放了一大台法 国订制的烤箱,一旁则是室内烟熏肉类的 专用设备,制作烟熏牛肉及培根均不假他 人之手。至于烹调技巧,Paddy 强调是传 统及现代并重,有时为了带出「特别柔嫩 的口感」,也会运用真空低温烹调等其他 方法。除此之外,他还喜欢烹调遭到「忽 略」的部位 : 「所谓比较次等的部分反而 更好吃、更好玩。」 「MEATS」 的 所 在 地 Christian 再 熟 悉不过,他说 : 「嘉咸街一上来就看得到, 真的很对我的胃口。」地方一空出来,这 对 伙 伴 立 马 下 订, 同 时 由 Manuel 的 好 友,来自墨尔本的室内设计师 Samantha Eades 操刀,以多幅图画串起外露墙面, 打造时髦的工业风空间。Christian 说明 : 「我们想营造出一种老地方魅力再现的感 觉。走进一个只剩空壳的老房,沿着这 些极具历史的美丽墙面,盖出一间新的 餐厅。这种老屋新生的例子在香港实在 是少之又少。」 提供真材实料的用餐体验可说是 「MEATS」的重点所在,Christian 指出: 「做 菜一定要老实,让看得到的跟吃下肚的一 样,就这么简单而已。 」Paddy 也相当认同: 「食物很棒但用餐环境不佳也是枉然,完 全浪费了美味的餐点。在我们餐厅,感受 得到真挚又轻松的氛围,让食物美味加成, 每一口都是好滋味。」 along the irrawaddy

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RED DOG STUDIO

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完美之巅

peaks of perfection A beautifully light pavlova combines the richness of European cream with the crispness of meringue and the brightness of fresh fruit.

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PAVLOVA 8 individual cakes

MERINGUE

LYCHEE LIGHT MOUSSE

250 g egg white 250 g icing sugar 3 g xanthan gum pink sugar silver dry coloring

50 g milk 100 g bloomed gelatin 200 g lychee purée 320 g Opalys white chocolate, coarsely chopped 25 g Soho Lychee Liqueur 520 g cream, whipped

1. Whip ingredients together until stiff peaks form. 2. Pipe onto silicone molds greased with cooking spray. 3. Sprinkle the tops with pink sugar and silver powder. 4. Bake at 80°C for 24 hours; remove from molds. 5. Place a piece of white chocolate in each shell to absorb humidity. RASPBERRY MARMALADE 300 g fresh raspberries 7 g pectin NH 7 g sugar 30 g Trimoline invert sugar 16 fresh raspberries, finely diced 8 fresh lychees, finely diced

1. Mix the sugar and pectin NH together. 2. Warm the raspberries with the Trimoline and when the mixture reaches 40°C, add the sugar and pectin NH and bring to a boil. 3. Refrigerate for 24 hours. 4. Sieve the marmalade and mix with the diced lychees and raspberries. ROSE CREAM CHEESE 200 g hot cream 40 g sugar 25 g bloomed gelatin 320 g cold cream 180 g cream cheese 11 g Sevarome rose flavoring

1. Combine hot cream, gelatin, and sugar; stir until dissolved. 2. Add cold cream, cream cheese, and rose flavoring. 3. Refrigerate for 24 hours, then whip the mixture.

1. Combine milk, lychee purée, and gelatin and bring to a boil. 2. Make a ganache by pouring the hot mixture over the chocolate and mixing with an immersion blender. 3. Mix in the Soho. 4. When the ganache cools to 40°C, fold in the whipped cream. 5. Fill hemispherical silicone molds with the mixture and freeze. WHITE AND PINK CHOCOLATE DISKS 40 g white chocolate 40 g pink-tinted white chocolate

1. Melt chocolates and spread each in a thin layer on a silicone mat. 2. When cool, cut out circles 4.5 cm in diameter and cut each in half. SUGAR HALOS 1000 g isomalt 15 g Sevarome dry white coloring 15 g Sevarome dry pink coloring

1. Color half the isomalt white and half pink. 2. Bring each mixture to 160°C in a saucepan. 3. Drizzle in arc shapes on a silicone mat and let cool. ASSEMBLY

1. Fill the meringue cups with raspberry marmalade. 2. Place half-disks of pink and white chocolate on top. 3. Place a frozen lychee mousse dome on top. 4. Pipe a swirl of rose cream cheese on top. 5. Decorate with sugar halos, fresh berries, rose petals, and colored sugar.

RED DOG STUDIO

PASTRY CHEF NICOLAS LAMBERT stands in the open kitchen of two-Michelin-starred Caprice, a chilled mixing bowl of cream in one hand, a balloon whisk in the other. Whipping briskly with practiced side-toside strokes, he pauses to lift the beater and admire the billowy dollops dropping gently back into the bowl. “For me,” he says, “whipped cream is the perfect representation of gourmandise. There are some desserts that look beautiful, but that’s it. When I see one with perfectly whipped cream, I want to grab a spoon and devour it!” Lambert has something of a sixth sense when it comes to whipped cream. With fifteen years of experience on an impressive resume, he can discern at a glance or by a touch when it has reached perfection in texture and aeration. He’s even been known to detect it solely by sound, and young commis chefs in his kitchen have learned to quickly reassess the progress in their mixing bowls when he laconically warns “your cream!” as he passes by. For a pastry chef, there are few sins more unforgivable than over-whipped cream. Lambert finds that the addition of a small amount of gelatin helps to achieve an ideal texture with less whipping. He also insists that all cream-gelatin mixtures, like all other cream mixtures, rest in the refrigerator for twenty-four hours to properly set both the fat and the gelatin and thus ensure a better result when whipped. “The perfect texture is not too firm and not too soft,” he says. “It should have a very silky, rich consistency. If I want the result to be extra-light and smooth, I use only cream. And if I’d like a touch of tartness to break the sweetness, I add cream cheese.” What remains consistent throughout all variations is Lambert’s use of European cream, which is reliably full in flavor and has the rich ivory color that indicates top-quality butterfat. “Since I’m a French pastry chef working in a French restaurant,” he says, “it wouldn’t make sense for me to use anything other than authentic European cream.”


PASTRY CHEF NICOLAS LAMBERT stands in the open kitchen of two-Michelinstarred Caprice, a chilled mixing bowl of cream in one hand, a balloon whisk in the other. Whipping briskly with practiced side-to-side strokes, he pauses to lift the beater and admire the billowy dollops dropping gently back into the bowl. “For me,” he says, “whipped cream is the perfect representation of gourmandaise. There are some desserts that look beautiful, but that’s it. When I see one with perfectly whipped cream, I want to grab a spoon and devour it!” Lambert has something of a sixth sense when it comes to whipped cream. With fifteen years of experience on an impressive resume, he can discern at a glance or by a touch when it has reached perfection in texture and aeration. He’s even been known to detect it solely by sound, and young commis chefs in his kitchen have learned to quickly reassess the progress in their mixing bowls when he laconically warns “your cream!” as he passes by. For a pastry chef, there are few sins more unforgivable than over-whipped cream. Lambert finds that the addition of a small amount of gelatin helps to achieve an ideal texture with less whipping. He also insists that all cream-gelatin mixtures rest in the refrigerator for twenty-four hours to properly set both the fat and the gelatin and thus ensure a better result when whipped. “The perfect texture is not too firm and not too soft,” he says. “It should have a very silky, rich consistency. If I want the result to be extra-light and smooth, I use only cream. And if I’d like a touch of tartness to break the sweetness, I add cream cheese.” What remains consistent throughout all variations is Lambert’s use of European cream, which is reliably full in flavor and has the rich ivory color that indicates top-quality butterfat. “Since I’m a French pastry chef working in a French restaurant,” he says, “it wouldn’t make sense for me to use anything other than authentic European cream.”

糕点主厨尼古拉斯 · 兰伯特(Nicolas Lambert)坐在两 米开朗布朗的 Caprice 的开放式厨房里,一只冷藏的奶 油混合碗,另一只是一个气球。他用练习的边对边轻轻 地打嗝,他停下来抬起搅拌器,并欣赏轻轻地倒入碗中 的轻轻的双颊。 “ 对我来说,” 他说,“ 奶油是美味佳肴 的完美代表。有一些美丽的甜点,但就是这样。当我看 到一个完美的奶油,我想抓一个勺子吞噬它! 兰伯特对于奶油是有第六感的。凭借十五年令人印 象深刻的简历,他可以在纹理和曝光达到完美的同时, 一目了然,也可以触摸一下。他甚至被认为只是通过声 音来检测,而他厨房里的年轻厨师已经学会了当他经过 的时候,警惕 “ 你的奶油! ” 时,快速重新评估他们的 混合碗的进度。 对于一个糕点师傅来说,有少许罪过比过奶奶更不 可原谅。 Lambert 发现添加少量明胶有助于实现理想的 质地,较少的搅打。他还坚持认为,所有的奶油 - 明胶 混合物都放在冰箱中二十四小时,以适当地设定脂肪和 明胶,从而确保在鞭打时获得更好的效果。他说 :“ 完 美的质地不是太坚定,而且不会太软。 “ 它应该有一个 非常柔滑,丰富的一致性。如果我想要结果超轻和光滑, 我只使用奶油。如果我想要一点点酸度来打破甜蜜,我 加奶油干酪。“ 在所有变化中保持一致的是兰伯特使用的欧洲奶 油,其可口可乐,具有丰富的象牙色,表示优质的奶油。

“ 由于我是在法国餐厅工作的法国糕点师,” 他说,“ 除 了正宗的欧洲奶油之外,我也不会使用任何东西。”


饼房主厨 Nicolas Lambert 站在米其林二星 餐厅「Caprice」开放厨房前,一手捧起的 碗里装着冷藏过的奶油,一手拿着搅拌器, 熟练地以边到边的动作迅速打发奶油,中 间会停下将搅拌器高高举起,看着一团奶 油缓缓掉回碗里,一脸满足。他说 : 「鲜奶 油真的是所谓美食的绝佳代表,有些甜点 看起来很漂亮,但除此之外就没什么了。 若看到打发得恰到好处的奶油,真想赶快 抓支汤匙大快朵颐一番!」 对于鲜奶油,Nicolas 有种近乎第六感 的神奇能力。进入糕饼界 15 年来,经历相 当丰富,只需看一眼或摸一下就知道奶油 的质地及空气感有否达到完美境界。业界 甚至盛传他能听音辨别。问问厨房的年轻 助理厨师就知道,只要主厨经过身边说声 「你的奶油!」时,就代表要回头再确认一 下手里的搅拌碗了。 对于饼房厨师而言,其实还有比奶油 打发过头更需留心的事。 Nicolas 发现,只 要加一点点吉利丁,搅拌少一点也能达到 理想的质地。他也坚持所有奶油及吉利丁 的混和物和其他奶油混合物一样,都要放 在冰箱冷藏 24 小时,让油脂和吉利丁准备 就绪,打出来的奶油才会好吃。他指出: 「不

太硬也不太软就是最好的状态,质地应该 如丝般柔滑细致。想要打出极度轻盈柔嫩 的程度,我就只放奶油,但想要香甜之外 有点酸味,就会加入奶油乳酪。」 唯一不变的是他所精挑细选的欧式奶

油,气味浓郁之外,丰富的象牙色泽也是 品质一流黄油脂肪的象征。他表示 : 「既 然我是个在法国餐厅工作的法式饼房主 厨,不用正统的欧洲奶油又怎么说得过去 呢。」

帕芙洛娃蛋糕 制作 8 个小蛋糕

250 克 蛋白 250 克 糖霜 3克 黄原胶 粉糖 银粉

1. 搅拌所有材料直 至变硬 2. 以挤花器挤入喷上 食用油的矽胶模外 3. 洒上粉糖及银粉 4. 以80°C烤24小时后 脱模 5. 每个蛋白霜外壳里 均放入白巧克力以 吸收湿气 覆盆莓果酱 300 克 新鲜覆盆莓 7 克NH果胶 7克糖 30 克 Trimoline 转化糖 16颗新鲜切粒覆盆莓

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1. 充分搅拌糖及NH 果胶 2. 覆盆莓及Trimoline 转化糖一起加热, 达40°C时再加入糖 及NH果胶煮至沸腾 3. 冷藏24小时 4. 果酱过筛后与切粒 的新鲜荔枝及覆盆 莓充分混和 玫瑰奶油乳酪 200克 热奶油 40克 糖 25克 固态吉利丁 320克 冷奶油 180克 奶油乳酪 11克Sevarome 玫瑰香精

1. 充分搅拌热奶油、 固态吉利丁及糖直 至融化

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2. 加入冷奶油、奶油 乳酪及玫瑰香精 3. 冷藏24小时候再 打发

入已打发的鲜奶油 5. 将混合物倒入半 球形的矽胶模中 并冷藏

荔枝淡慕斯

半圆巧克力薄片

50克 牛奶 100克 固态吉利丁 200克 荔枝泥 320克Opalys 白巧克力 切至粗粒 25克 Soho 荔枝酒 520克 已打发的奶油

40克 白巧克力 40克 染了粉红色的白 巧克力

1. 牛奶、荔枝泥及吉 利丁充分混和后, 煮至沸腾 2. 沸腾后淋在白巧克 力上,以撹拌器充 分混和,制成白巧 克力甘纳许 3. 加入Soho荔枝酒 4. 白巧克力甘纳许的 温度降至40°C时加

1. 巧克力溶化后在 矽胶垫上铺上薄 薄一层 2. 放凉后切成直径4.5 厘米的圆形,并切 成两半 糖环 1000克 巴糖醇 15克Sevarome 白色色粉 15克Sevarome 粉红色 色粉

1. 分别把500克的巴 糖醇染成白色和

粉红色 2. 把材料分别放入平 底锅内,以160°C 烹调 3. 在矽胶垫上制成一 圈糖环,放凉后作 为装饰

组装甜点 1. 把覆盆莓果酱倒入 蛋白霜外壳内 2. 上面放上一片白色 和一片粉红色的半 圆巧克力薄片 3. 放上一份半球形荔 枝淡慕斯 4. 再挤上漩涡形的玫 瑰奶油乳酪 5. 最后以糖环、新鲜 覆盆莓、玫瑰花瓣 及彩糖装饰

RED DOG STUDIO (5)

蛋白霜外壳


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当代粤菜风华

today’s cantonese

ONE WOULD BE HARD PRESSED to find a Cantonese food lover in the region who isn’t familiar with the name Fook Lam Moon. The restaurant, which originated in Hong Kong, has always stood out for its authentic flavors and exquisite craftsmanship, exemplified by its celebrated dim sum offerings. Now, at Galaxy MacauTM – the team is shaking things up. According to Fook Lam Moon’s head chef Au Yeung Chung Kei, the dining world is rapidly changing, and the key to thriving in such a fast-paced environment is to keep progressing. “Fook Lam Moon has always

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had a loyal customer base,” he says, “because we’ve always been the gatekeeper of classic Cantonese cuisine. In the food and beverage industry, whether you’re front of house or in the kitchen, it’s also important to keep moving with the times.” It’s fair to say that Fook Lam Moon has been doing just that from the very beginning. Established as a home catering service in 1948 by Chui Fook-chuen, it eventually reworked its business model as Hong Kong’s economy took off and dining tastes began to change. The original restaurant opened in 1972, and five years later, a second one

followed to keep up with heavy market demand. Over the last decade or so, the team has observed strong outside influences on the dining culture in Macau and Hong Kong, most notably from mainland China and Southeast Asia, along with emerging culinary trends like fusion and even DIY cooking. Eating preferences are also shifting, thanks to increasing concerns about personal well-being. “Even very authentic Cantonese cuisine these days is influenced by other cooking styles,” says the chef, “and you have to adapt in order to improve.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Fook Lam Moon puts an all-new focus on its famous traditional cuisine.


PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

Whole Abalone Puffs 原只鲍鱼酥 This “throwback dish” features South African abalone atop fluffy pastry. “The seafood and pastry offer two distinct flavor profiles,” says the chef. “The buttery aroma and richness of the pastry beautifully complements the abalone’s delicate sweetness.” The dish is drizzled with a flavorsome reduction of abalone stock. 这道菜以古法制作,将精选南非鲍鱼置于 「海 松脆酥皮上,相当诱人。总厨表示 : 鲜及酥皮是两种完全不同的风味,酥皮的 奶油气息及丰厚口感,与鲍鱼细致的香甜 滋味搭配得恰到好处。 」上桌前淋上鲍鱼 高汤收干后的酱汁,更添独特风味。是一

Steamed Lobster Dumplings 极品龍蝦餃 Much like the traditional steamed hargow, this dim sum replaces prawns with its swankier cousin. “Compared to prawns,” says the chef, “lobster’s freshness and texture are even better.” The lobster and broth are meticulously portioned and wrapped in a delicate skin typically imprinted with thirteen pleats.

极品龙虾饺作法有如传统虾饺,只 是用龙虾肉取代虾肉。主厨分析 : 「和虾肉比起来,龙虾肉的鲜度及 口感都更上一层楼。 」龙虾肉及高 汤比例抓得精准,最后再以细腻手 法包成 13 折封口的龙虾饺即大功 告成。

个来自沸腾的鲍鱼的浓郁香味的酱汁。 along the irrawaddy

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PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU™

Steamed Assorted Mushroom ​ 黑松露野菌素包 Hearty, wholesome flavors predominate in this vegetarian offering, which features black truffle accentuating healthful ingredients like Chinese mushroom and bamboo shoots. “The flavor of mushrooms is a little one-dimensional, and it needs something like black truffle to give contrast.” 这道素食料理以健康营养为诉求,精选黑松 露入菜,特显中式野菌及竹笋等其他健康食 「光只有野菌味道稍 材的美味。 总厨表示 : 嫌单调,加入像黑松露这样的食材才有对比, 增色许多。 」

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In response, a major emphasis of the new à la carte and dim sum menus at Fook Lam Moon is the nutrition-conscious use of healthy ingredients. “We’re steering toward more vegetables, less meat and oil, and healthier ways of creating food,” the chef remarks, explaining that the restaurant’s dim sum dishes, while staying true to traditional flavors, are prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients like Chinese mushrooms and bamboo shoots and are presented with an appealing contemporary aesthetic. “Many diners have very specific ideas about what they look for in a Cantonese

meal,” he adds, “and we totally respect that. But Fook Lam Moon’s team has found innovative ways to present these time-honored favorites in a fresh new light. And we take the time to introduce our new offerings to guests. We explain the story behind each one, the cooking methods, and the healthy ingredients used.” According to the chef, no matter what the pace of innovation, there’s one thing that Fook Lam Moon’s fans can be sure will never change: “The quality and freshness of our ingredients will always be the kitchen’s number one priority.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2), MARCUS TSE (INTERIOR)

and Black Truffle Buns


Deep-Fried Sesame Ball 灯影煎堆 The chef explains that this jian dui takes its name from a Sichuan dish featuring beef sliced so thin that light could shine through it. “The jian dui pastry is made with glutinous rice flour and then deep-fried — it’s so delicate that it’s almost translucent.” 主厨解释说 : 「灯影煎堆取名自四川名菜灯影 牛肉,同样薄可透光。煎堆以糯米粉制成再 经油炸,油而不腻,外皮吹弹可破。 」

找任何一个广东菜老饕一问,「福临门」名 声之大,几乎无人不晓。从香港起家的餐 厅以港式点心闻名,口味道地、做工精湛, 广受好评。「福临门」亦于「 澳門銀河 TM」 开设分店,为澳门带来与时并进的经典粤 菜美味。 总厨欧阳松基表示,餐饮界天天都在 变,要在此步调快速的环境中持续发光发 亮的秘诀便是与时俱进。他说 : 「餐厅的忠 实顾客很多,因为我们坚守着经典粤菜的 观念,但身处餐饮业界,不管在前台或厨房, 都要能跟得上潮流才行。」 求新求变其实是「福临门」创业以来 一直并行不悖的理念,徐福全先生在 1948 年创立到会服务,后随着香港经济起飞及

大众口味改变调整经营模式。第一间酒家 于 1972 年开张,大获好评,更因应来客数 量增加,于五年后开了首间分店。 过去十多年来,经营团队注意到澳门 及香港饮食文化受到外来潮流的影响极大, 其中以中国内地及东南亚为最,同时无国 界料理或 DIY 烹调等新兴风气也相当盛行。 另外,出于对健康的重视,客人的口味也 在改变。总厨指出 : 「即便是最传统的广东 菜也不免受到其他潮流的影响,我们也要 能够应变,不断精益求精。」 「福临门」现推出以健康食材打造,以 营养健康为诉求的单点菜式及点心套餐就 是最好的例子。总厨进一步说明 : 「我们 增加蔬菜的比例,少油少肉,用更健康的

方式烹调餐点。」他强调,在传统味道不变 的前提之下,餐厅持续引进如菇类及竹笋 等新鲜季节食材,摆盘充满当代美学风格, 相当引人入胜。 他剖析来客心态 : 「很多客人心中对于 广东菜有一定的想像,对此我们完全尊重, 但团队仍不断尝试创新方法,让这些经过 时间考验的经典大菜以新面貌上桌。与此 同时,我们也花时间介绍新菜给大家,介 绍每道菜的故事、烹调方式以及所用的健 康食材。」 不过总厨也向所有「福临门」的忠实 客人打包票,保证不管如何创新,有件事 绝对不会变 : 「食材的品质及鲜度永远会是 厨房的优先考量。」 along the irrawaddy

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Executive Sous Chef Ethan Hiew

Singaporean Laksa

助理行政总厨丘云康

新加坡叻沙面

典雅滋味 奢华体验

lounging in luxury The Lobby Lounge and The Mandarin Cake Shop unveil a stylish new look at Mandarin Oriental, Macau.

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ETHAN HIEW, Executive Sous Chef of Mandarin Oriental, Macau, has created an entirely different lineup of tempting offerings to match the lounge’s recent sweeping makeover. “The space is brighter and more inviting,” he says, “and the revamped menu reflects the transformation.” Included are a breakfast option, the MO Express fusion set menu, afternoon tea sets, and the ever-popular all-day menu. “I purposely divided the all-day menu into two separate sections,” says Hiew. “Mandarin Delights features Western-influenced dishes and Oriental Delights is our selection of Asian dishes.” The Western menu has all-time favorites, such as fish and chips and lasagna, as well as innovations like the Garden Shake Salad served in a jar and tossed at the table with a yuzu-soy dressing. When it came to creating Oriental Delights,

Hiew drew on his Southeast Asian heritage and his experience working in Malaysia and Singapore to craft an array of classic yet inventive dishes, including Wasabi-Aioli Prawns, Hainanese Chicken Rice Spring Rolls, and Malaysian Bak Kut Teh. “The wasabi prawns are now one of our most popular items,” he says. “They’ve really made quite an impact.” Tiger prawns are first marinated in salt, sugar, and oil and coated in corn flour, but Hiew says the trick to making them crispy is to let them rest overnight in the fridge. After deep-frying, they’re coated in a wasabi and lemon sauce and topped with ebiko and fresh mango. Hiew also serves a Singaporean laksa, a tangy coconut curry broth with shrimps, fish cake, egg, and shredded chicken. “While Malaysian laksa has a strong curry flavor and Penang laksa tends to be quite sour,” he says, “my Singaporean version focuses


PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Wasabi-Aioli Prawns

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

青芥末虾球

澳门文华东方酒店大堂酒廊最近全新改装, 助理行政总厨丘云康也同时推出全新原创 餐点,令人食指大动。他形容 : 「酒廊空间 更为明亮开放,光线充裕,此一转变透过 最新菜单展露无遗。」 新菜式包括早餐、文华东方轻怡 (MO Express) 套餐、经典下午茶以及备受欢迎 的各式东南亚全日餐点。 丘总厨表示 : 「我 把全日菜单分成两种,文华精选 (Mandarin Delights) 以西式菜为主,东方精选 (Oriental Delights) 则以亚洲料理为主角。 」西式菜单 除了炸鱼薯条及意大利牛肉千层面等人气 招牌菜之外,也加入多道创新菜式,像是 盛于玻璃罐的「文华田园摇摇沙律」,上桌 后淋上柚子酱油,相当赏心悦目。 至于东方精选,丘总厨则是从自小在 东南亚吸收的当地文化,及曾于马来西亚 和新加坡两地工作的经验中汲取灵感,创 作出经典又同时融入创新元素的一系列菜 式,包括青芥末虾球、海南鸡饭春卷和马 来西亚肉骨茶。他说 : 「青芥末虾球已经成

为店里最具人气的料理,我真没想到它这 么受欢迎。」虎虾先以盐、糖及油腌渍,裹 以玉米粉后要放于冰箱过夜,这也是让虾 球吃起来够酥够脆的小秘诀。隔天下锅油 炸后淋上青芥末及柠檬酱,再放上鱼籽及 新鲜芒果即大功告成。 以鲜虾、鱼饼、鸡蛋及鸡丝等食材制 作的浓香椰奶咖喱-新加坡叻沙,也是他 的拿手好菜。他说明 : 「马来西亚叻沙咖喱 味道较重,槟城风味酸味强烈,我的新加 坡叻沙则在椰子风味上下了许多功夫-温 和之余带有些许呛辣口感。」 紧邻大堂酒廊的文华饼店也以全新面 貌示人,不少美味蛋糕也同时登场。文华 东方酒店糕饼行政主厨 Sebastien Bernis 表 示以莲花为材料创作糕点时其实有点为难, 他说 : 「就我所知,很少西方饼厨用莲花做 过糕点,开始时我不太知道该从何着手, 于我而言,这是个很大的挑战,但试试看 最终能做出怎样的作品来其实也蛮有趣。」 最终成果是莲花艳,这款亮盈、柔美

的蛋糕迅速成为文华饼店的闪耀之星。他 自豪说道 : 「这款蛋糕开卖以来,每天都卖 到缺货。」 蛋糕由多层海绵蛋糕组成,上面都均 匀涂上柠檬糖浆、伯爵茶及莲花奶油,最 上方装饰的莲花形状粉红手工巧克力相当 费工,需时超过 2 小时制作。他解释 : 「莲 花味道非常柔和,加上柠檬及茶,让蛋糕 味道更添层次。」 他也为大堂酒廊的客人创作了全新下 午茶餐单,咸点有烟熏鲑鱼卷、咖喱烟熏 鸡肉三明治和黑松露及蘑菇肉饼 ;甜点则 包括了香草奶冻、香蕉焦糖蛋糕以及果仁 糖白芝麻奶油泡芙。英式松饼也在选择之 列,可搭配凝脂奶油及新鲜果酱享用。 烤箱刚出炉的新鲜点心放在全新设计 的下午茶架内,悬吊在桌上,形成优雅的 弧形,非常吸睛。 Sebastien 强调 : 「我们 想做出与众不同,其他地方找不到的东西。 不止单件好看,同时能融入整体设计,烘 托大堂酒廊焕然一新的优雅改装。」 along the irrawaddy

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Executive Pastry Chef 糕饼行政主厨 Sebastien Bernis

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Pink Bloom 莲花艳

smoked salmon rolls and curried smoked chicken sandwiches to black truffle and mushroom croquettes. Sweets include vanilla panna cotta, banana and caramel cake, and praline and white sesame choux puff. Scones with clotted cream and fresh jam are also featured.

These dainty morsels are served in a striking new tea stand suspended from the table in a graceful arc. “We wanted something very different and unique,” says Bernis. “Our tea stand is one of a kind and really accentuates the Lobby Lounge’s beautiful design.”

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

more on the coconut flavors – it’s mild and slightly spicy.” The Mandarin Cake Shop, right next door to the Lobby Lounge and also recently redesigned, has introduced a new selection of delicious handcrafted desserts resembling edible art. Sebastien Bernis, Mandarin Oriental’s Executive Pastry Chef, was asked to create a cake based on the lotus flower. The result is Pink Bloom, a light, beautifully decorated cake that has fast become The Mandarin Cake Shop’s shining star. “It’s been enormously popular since the first day it went on sale,” says Bernis. The cake is composed of layered sponge soaked in lemon syrup, earl grey tea, and lotus flower cream and is topped with a handcrafted pink chocolate lotus flower that takes more than two hours to make. “Lotus has a very mild taste,” he says, “but the lemon and tea give the cake an added dimension of flavor.” Bernis also created an entirely new afternoon tea set for guests in the Lobby Lounge. Savory specialties range from


Signature Afternoon Tea Set 文华东方经典下午茶


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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

华丽冬日甜品秀

snowy and showy

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

With the help of French cream Candia Professionnel, one of Hong Kong’s top pastry chefs creates a sweet and spectacular wintry treat.

YVES MATTHEY, Executive Pastry Chef at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, is an artist on multiple fronts. His desserts are widely noted, of course, for their inventive flavor juxtapositions, and his remarkable talent for creating visual appeal is always on display. But it’s his sense of drama that can turn the presentation of his dishes into a performance. The sumptuous offerings that Matthey devises for the landmark hotel’s exclusive Krug Room are probably those that give his artistic imagination freest rein, and the showstopping results frequently become the

talk of the town among Hong Kong’s dessertcourse connoisseurs. For the Krug Room’s Christmas menu, Matthey has outdone himself with a diverting concoction named Snowball. An edible winter wonderland, the dish provides contrasts in texture and temperature that come together in an elaborate interplay right in front of diners. The biggest wow factor hits when fifteen white chocolate balls, frozen by means of liquid nitrogen, are simultaneously dropped from height, shattering and revealing cinnamon white chocolate mousse and green apple sorbet

inside. The interactive event was inspired by Matthey’s favorite boyhood memories of wintertime in his native Switzerland. “It was always so much fun running through the drifts and throwing snowballs,” he says. “I wanted to recreate that same sense of winter play with this dessert.” Matthey makes the most of contemporary culinary methods, extending to the French cream he selects, Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream. “In modern dessert-making,” he says, “we whip the cream less, and Candia Professionnel is perfect for this technique. It’s light in texture without compromising on fat content or taste.” The cream’s butterfat globules, he goes on to explain, are what form a protective barrier around tiny pockets of air, giving structure and stability to the final result. “With Candia Professionnel cream, air incorporates easily to give exceptional volume. And I love Candia Professionnel’s light consistency that leaves the palate fresh, something especially important at the end of a wonderful meal.” along the irrawaddy

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

SNOWBALL BERRY COMPOTE 230 g blueberries 100 g raspberries 80 g strawberries 70 g honey 70 g cassis purée 20 g lemon juice 80 g sugar 2 vanilla beans 55 g Pernod

1. Heat berries in a pan until juices exude. 2. Add honey and cassis purée followed by remaining ingredients and cook until softened. 3. Store in refrigerator. GREEN APPLE SORBET 1 kg green apple purée 375 g apple juice 125 g sugar 8 g citric acid 70 g glycerin 200 g cocoa butter

1. Bring green apple purée and apple juice to a boil; add remaining ingredients. 2. Freeze the base in a Pacojet container and blend into a smoothie. 3. Place the sorbet into an apple-shaped mold and freeze overnight. 4. Unmold the sorbet and dip in melted, colored cocoa butter. 5. Store sorbet in a container in the freezer. VANILLA MICROWAVE SPONGE 8 g vanilla oil 1 vanilla bean 50 g olive oil 6 g white food color powder 420 g egg white 110 g egg yolk 160 g sugar 60 g cake flour

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桂白巧克力慕斯与青苹果雪酪的那一瞬 间。这个与顾客的小互动源自于 Yves 在 瑞士冬天的童年美好回忆。他说 : 「在雪 堆间跑来跑去乱扔雪球总是那么有趣, 我想利用这道甜点重现那种冬日嬉戏的 感觉。 」 Yves 非常擅长利用现代烹饪方法, 就连法式鲜奶油的选择也追求时下潮 流, 他 使 用 Candia Professionnel 稀 奶 油。他说明 : 「现代甜点制作中,我们 降低了奶油打发的程度,而这款奶油正 好符合这一作法。它的质地轻盈,但在 脂肪含量与口味上却毫不逊色。」他接 着解释,奶油所含的乳脂球能包覆少量 空气,可帮助甜品成形而且保持稳定结 构。 Yves 认为 : 「这种奶油更易于包含 空气,使整个甜点容易达到理想的体积。 而它比一般奶油口感更滑顺,可保持清 新口感,毕竟佳肴后的口齿留香是不可 或缺的。」

CINNAMON WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE 150 g white chocolate, melted 120 g egg white 70 g sugar 160 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 35.1% 3 g cinnamon 2 g sea salt

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Yves Matthey 担任香港文华东方酒店的 文华饼店主厨,也是一位艺术的多面手。 Yves 因为创作的甜点滋味变化无穷而被 广为传颂,而他无与伦比的视觉设计才 华也总是在甜点上展露无遗。但他天生 的戏剧触觉才真正使盘中之物转化为一 场精彩的表演。 酒店的库克厅以火车包厢为设计灵 感。Yves 为该餐厅所设计的豪华甜点, 大概是他最天马行的作品了,令人叹为 观止的作品经常是香港甜品评鉴家口中 的话题。在准备库克厅的圣诞菜单时, Yves 突破自我框架,设计出饶富趣味的 综合式甜点,并命名为雪球(Snowball) 。 这道甜点犹如可食用的冬日仙境, 为顾客展示了质地与温度的强烈对比, 并细致地表现了两者的交互作用。不过 最令人惊叹的一幕还是甜点呈现的瞬间 – 十五颗被液态氮冰冻的白巧克力球从 空中落下,外层受力击破展开,露出肉

1. Mix all ingredients with a hand blender until smooth. 2. Place mixture into espuma container and cream charge once. 3. Refrigerate overnight and add another cream charger before using. 4. Pipe the base into a paper cup and microwave on high for 14 seconds. 5. Store sponge in the cup in the refrigerator.

1. Beat the egg white until stiff peaks form. 2. Add half the sugar and the cinnamon, beating until sugar dissolves. 3. Add remaining sugar and the sea salt, whipping until glossy. 4. Add cream and whip until mixture thickens. 5. Fold melted white chocolate into egg white mixture. 6. Store mousse in a container in the refrigerator.


野果蜜饯 230克 蓝莓 100克 覆盆子 80克 草莓 70克 蜂蜜 70克 黑醋栗酱 20克 柠檬汁 80克 糖 2条 香草荚 55克 潘诺茴香酒

1. 将野果置于平底锅中加热直到果汁释 出; 2. 加入蜂蜜与黑醋栗酱后将其他材料全部 放入煮至软化; 3. 放入冰箱。 青苹果雪酪

WHITE CHOCOLATE CRUMBLE 300 g cake flour 200 g sugar 200 g Candia Unsalted Butter 100 g almond powder 60 g white chocolate 8 g white food color powder

1. Mix the ingredients together. 2. Refrigerate the dough overnight. 3. Grate the dough coarsely into a crumble. 4. Spread in an even layer on a baking tray. 5. Bake at 110°C for 65 minutes. COCONUT ESPUMA 60 g honey 300 g coconut milk 30 g Malibu coconut rum 180 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 35.1% 2 g sea salt

1. Caramelize honey in a saucepan until the color darkens. 2. Refrigerate until cool. 3. Combine honey, cream, and coconut milk. 4. Store in refrigerator. FINAL ASSEMBLY

1. Place coconut espuma into espuma bottle, add three cream chargers, and shake well. 2. Repeatedly pipe espuma into a ladle and dip into liquid nitrogen to form half-shells, storing them in dry ice box or freezer at -24°C. 3. Fill a half-shell with apple sorbet and feuillantine. 4. Using coconut espuma, seal together filled half-shell with an empty one; dip into liquid nitrogen until totally sealed and store at -24°C. 5. Repeat the process to form all balls. 6. Decorate the table with berry compote, microwave sponge, cinnamon chocolate mousse, crumble rocks, a chocolate branch, a snowman, and chocolate trees. 7. Dip the stored snowballs once more into liquid nitrogen before serving.

1公斤 青苹果酱 375克 苹果汁 125克 糖 8克 柠檬酸 70克 甘油 200克 可可油

1. 将青苹果酱与苹果汁一同煮滚再放入其 他所有材料; 2. 将煮好的成品放入Pacojet料理机打成冰 沙; 3. 将冰沙放入苹果模具后冰一个晚上; 4. 将雪酪从模具中取出再浸一下融化且上 色的可可油; 5. 将雪酪放入容器中再放进冰箱。 香草微波海绵蛋糕 8克 香草油 1条 香草荚 50克 橄榄油 6克 白色色素粉 420克 蛋白 110克 蛋黄 160克 糖 60克 蛋糕用面粉

1. 将所有材料混和后用手动搅拌器搅至均 匀; 2. 将混和物倒入奶泡容器中发泡一次; 3. 放进冰箱一个晚上,使用前再发泡一 次; 4. 挤到纸杯中再放入微波炉 调至高功率微波14秒; 5. 烤好的海绵蛋糕再放进冰 箱。

白巧克力派 300克 蛋糕用面粉 200克 糖 200克 Candia 无盐黄油 100克 杏仁粉 60克 白巧克力 8克 白色食用色素粉

1. 将所有材料混和制成面团; 2. 将混和好的面团冰一个晚上; 3. 将面团取出并切成碎屑状; 4. 均匀铺在烤盘上; 5. 110°C烘烤约65分钟。 椰子奶泡 60克 蜂蜜 300克 椰奶 30克 马利宝椰子朗姆酒 180克 Candia Professionnel 稀奶油 35.1% 2克 海盐

1. 将蜂蜜置于平底锅中焦化至颜色变深; 2. 放入冰箱冷却; 3. 将冷却的蜂蜜、Candia Professionnel 稀奶 油与椰奶混和; 4. 冰进冰箱。 组合甜点

1. 将椰子奶泡放进奶泡瓶中发泡三次再摇 晃均匀; 2. 反覆地将奶泡挤入小勺子,再将勺子放 入液态氮冷冻使奶泡形成半圆壳状后, 放到干冰盒中以-24°C储藏; 3. 将其中一个半圆奶泡壳以苹果雪酪及薄 饼碎片填满; 4. 以椰子奶泡作为胶水,将填满的半圆奶 泡壳与另一个未填满的合并成一颗球, 再放入液态氮中浸泡直到缝隙完全封 死,接着放到-24°C储藏; 5. 重复以上步骤将所有的奶泡球制作完 成; 6. 用野果蜜饯、微波海绵蛋糕、肉桂巧克 力慕斯、白巧克力派、巧克力树枝、雪 人还有巧克力树来装饰桌面; 7. 上桌前,将刚刚做好的奶泡球再过一次 液态氮。

肉桂白巧克力慕斯 150克 白巧克力(需融开) 120克 蛋白 70克 糖 160克 Candia Professionnel 稀奶油 35.1% 3克 肉桂 2克 海盐

1. 反覆搅拌蛋白直到发泡尖 起; 2. 加入一半的糖与肉桂,继 续搅拌直到糖完全融化; 3. 将剩下的糖加入再倒入海 盐搅拌均匀; 4. 加入Candia Professionnel 稀 奶油再搅拌直到混和物变 得浓稠; 5. 将白巧克力融化后与混和 物拌在一起; 6. 将成品慕斯放到容器中冰 进冰箱。

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PRESENTED BY LOS SOTANA

龙舌兰狂想曲

agave unlimited Underground lounge Los Sotano delivers Hong Kong’s most exclusive collection of tequila and mezcal.

The Carlos Slim

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SEXY, FUN, AND UNPREDICTABLE are words that come to mind when Rob Kariakin, top mixologist and agave-spirits maven, describes the electric ambience of Los Sotano, Lan Kwai Fong’s new Mexican lounge. “Hong Kong has a lot of bars,” he says. “High-end craft cocktail lounges, intriguing hidden clubs with cool DJs, interiors that you’ve got to Instagram, spots with food you can’t stop craving. Some even manage to combine a couple, but at Los Sotano, we’ve got them all and more.” Kariakin’s love affair with agave-based spirits, which took flight when he worked at some of LA’s hottest bars, made the idea of playing a major role at Los Sotano irresistible. He’s stocked the new lounge with scores of tequilas and mezcals: “Some have a very limited production, others are considered rare or unconventional. We actually brought in a lot that were not available here.” Kariakin has created an enticing lineup of cocktails that reflect his fundamental philosophy: “Every ingredient should have a point and must contribute to making the drink – and the guest’s experience – even better.” Coming in as the city’s most expensive margarita is The Carlos Slim. Made with Chef Abel Ortiz Alvarez


PRESENTED BY LOS SOTANA

Street tacos, from left to right: Ribeye, Carnitas, Al Pastor, Camarones

Bad Hombre

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The Peak


premium ingredients – Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Extra Añejo tequila, Grand Marnier’s 150th anniversary edition, fresh lime, and agave – it’s hand-shaken tableside and served in a stemless glass in a bowl of ice. “It’s so much smoother and richer than an ordinary margarita.” Another trademark is the gorgeous Jamaica margarita, featuring a Mexican favorite, hibiscus tea. The Peak, with the addition of fresh watermelon, is a twist on an Eastern Standard. The Bad Hombre, combining beer and tequila, has a paper-bag presentation in reference to “back home where drinking on the street is illegal.” The down-a-flight venue is lined with vivid works by three famous street artists from the world’s graffiti capital, Wynwood, Miami. Chef Abel Ortiz Alvarez’s vivacious Mexican specialties include signature guacamole prepared tableside, creative ceviches, and finger-licking-good street tacos, all designed to pair beautifully with the cocktails. One last tip: to enter Los Sotano, find the barrel.

Rob Kariakin 常被评价为性感、有趣、难 以预测。作为一名出类拔萃的调酒师、 Rob 其实也是一位龙舌兰烈酒专家。位于 香港兰桂坊的全新墨西哥酒吧 Los Sotano 有着独特的电子氛围。对此,他评价道 : 「香港的酒吧五花八门 :高级精致调酒吧、 配备超酷 DJ 的奇妙隐藏式酒吧、酷炫装 潢让人非放上 Instagram 不可的酒吧,也 有主打珍馐美馔的酒吧,还有些甚至融 合两种特色的酒吧。然而,在 Los Sotano 酒吧,你能体验到的远不只这些。 」 Rob 是在洛杉矶数间赫赫有名的酒 吧工作时,与龙舌兰烈酒结下不解之缘, 因此担纲 Los Sotano 酒吧主调酒师的大 任,对他来说求之不得。他将酒吧堆满 龙舌兰酒及梅斯卡尔酒。Rob 透露 : 「当 中有些是限量品,有些则非常罕见或新 颖。事实上,我们带来许多香港买不到 的酒类。」Rob 创造出整套诱人的调酒系 列,而这些美酒佳酿在在都反映了他的 原则。他认为 : 「每样原料都要有存在的 理由,必须能让调酒的味道更好,以及 有责任让顾客得到更棒的品尝体验。」 The Carlos Slim 是全城最昂贵的玛

格 丽 特 酒。 这 款 酒 的 原 料 包 括 Cuervo Reserva de la Familia Extra Añejo 柑曼怡 (Grand Marnier) 150 周年纪念龙舌兰酒、 新鲜青柠、龙舌兰等顶级食材。调酒师 将酒在桌边手摇混和后,再倒入冰碗中 的无脚酒杯呈现给顾客。据透露,「这 比原本的玛格丽特酒还来得顺口,口感 也丰富许多。」另一样招牌是华丽的牙 买加玛格丽特酒,特色是以加入墨西哥 人最爱的芙蓉茶为原料。 The Peak 则是 Eastern Standard 调酒再加入新鲜西瓜摇 身一变的改良版。The Bad Hombre 则是 龙舌兰酒加上啤酒的组合,用纸袋包裹 着酒瓶,象征「在我家乡的大街上喝酒 可是违法的。」 来自世界涂鸦之都迈阿密怀恩伍德 的三位著名街头画家在地下酒吧的墙面上 作画,作品栩栩如生。而主厨 Abel Ortiz Alvarez 则主理现场特色墨西哥活力餐点, 包括招牌的桌边现切酪梨酱、柠汁腌生鱼, 还有令人回味无穷的街头美食塔可等,全 都是为美味调酒所精心设计的搭配佳肴。 最后小提醒 :想一探 Los Sotano 酒 吧,找门口摆着酒桶的店就对了。 along the irrawaddy

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PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

地下东京

tokyo underground Yojimbo lounge bar shakes up Central with an all-night entertainment experience.

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「隐蔽」 、 「引人入胜」 、 「 神 秘 」, 这 三 个 词 汇 充 份 代 表 了 由 明 星 设 计 师 Ashley Sutton 所 打 造、 充 满 怀 旧 氛 围、 现 下 香 港 最 具 时 尚 魅 力 的 夜 店 ,他长久以来对东京银座古怪但具特 「Yojimbo」 色的酒吧深深著迷,设计灵感亦来自于此。取名 「Yojimbo」是向 Ashley 最喜爱的电影之一- 1961 年的武士电影《大镖客》致敬。 夜店平日营业至凌晨三点,周末延长至五点, 邀请来自世界各地的 DJ 轮番上阵,让整晚舞蹈节 奏不停。还有大师级的调酒师 Alberto Aldave,一 杯接着一杯调制以日本为灵感所独创的招牌鸡尾 酒。 其 中 Alberto 的 创 作 Harajuku Girl 最 赏 心 悦 目,是英人牌琴酒、君度橙酒、独家调制的甜菜 根覆盆莓糖浆、新鲜柠檬汁和香槟的完美结合。 鸡尾酒清新的酸和抹在经典碟型杯缘上干覆盆莓 的甜,达到口味上的绝佳平衡。

Geisha’s Aphrodisiac 则选用了有杯脚的特殊 造型杯,放在冰块上呈上。这款调酒口味浓烈, 以苹果白兰地、柑曼怡橙酒、水蜜桃果泥、新鲜 柠檬汁、香草糖浆、红石榴糖浆和红醋栗调制, 最后插上一把手作日本扇装饰。Crazy 88 是一款 美味、一不小心便整杯喝下肚的酒款,以姜黄泡 制的琴酒、百香果果泥、凤梨汁和微带苦味的姜 汁气泡水混合摇制,最后用作成武士刀的巧克力 威化饼完美衬托出调酒的果香。

Alberto 的原创鸡尾酒还有以马丁尼调制的 Ninja Shadow、 以 龙 舌 兰 酒 作 为 基 底 的 Yakuza Revenge,和将日本元素淋漓尽致展现的 Yojimbo。 Alberto 可说是穿着最为入时且形象温文儒 雅 的 调 酒 师, 过 去 曾 在 伦 敦 The Ritz London 酒 店的 Rivoli 酒吧为名人及社会重要人士亲自调酒。 「在 The Ritz London 酒店光是调制 Alberto 说道 : 好喝的鸡尾酒还不够,还必须外型抢眼,要倒进 最漂亮的酒杯, 使用 高品质的食材和 巧妙的装饰 点缀。这恰巧与我的调酒哲学不谋而合,也是我 」 为『Yojimbo』所呈现的风格。

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

“Clandestine,” “intriguing,” “mysterious” are three words that begin to capture the layered retro ambience of Hong Kong’s latest glamour nightspot by star designer Ashley Sutton. Based on his abiding fascination with the quirky hole-in-the-wall bars of Tokyo’s Ginza, Yojimbo is named for the famous 1961 samurai film, one of Sutton’s favorites. The nightclub, open till three and on weekends till five, features a lineup of international DJs who keep the dance rhythms coming and a master mixologist, Alberto Aldave, who keeps his signature Japanese-inspired cocktails flowing. One of Aldave’s most visually appealing creations is the Harajuku Girl, a perfect harmony of Beefeater gin, Cointreau, homemade rhubarb-and-raspberry syrup, fresh lemon juice, and Champagne. The refreshing blend’s acidity is balanced by the sweetness of dried raspberry that rims a classic coupe. Geisha’s Aphrodisiac is served over ice in a unique glass with its own drinking stem. This heady mix of Calvados, Grand Marnier, peach purée, fresh lemon juice, vanilla syrup, grenadine, and red currant is garnished with a handmade Japanese fan. The Crazy 88 is a delicious and oh-so-easy-to-quaff combination of turmeric-infused gin, passion fruit purée, pineapple juice, and ginger bitters topped with a chocolate wafer that represents a katana samurai sword and that perfectly compements the fruity flavors. Other Aldave originals include the martini-inspired Ninja Shadow, the tequila-based Yakuza Revenge, and, highlighting distinctively Japanese ingredients, the Yojimbo. Aldave, who may well be the best-dressed and most urbane mixologist in the city, previously catered to celebrities and socialites at The Ritz London’s The Rivoli Bar. “It wasn’t enough to have the best-tasting cocktails at The Ritz,” notes Aldave. “They also had to be the best looking, served in the best glassware, and made with the best ingredients and garnishes. That’s my philosophy of cocktailmaking too, and one that I’ve brought to Yojimbo.”


Harajuku Girl

Geisha’s Aphrodisiac

Master Mixologist Alberto Aldave

Crazy 88

Harajuku Girl


PRESENTED BY AUSTRIAN WINE

起泡酒全新风貌

sekt’s appeal

COURTESY OF AUSTRIAN WINE (4)

Austria declares a sparkling wine revolution.

SEKT IS SIMPLY THE GERMAN TERM for sparkling wine, and Austria has been producing its own distinctive varieties since 1846. But 2017 marks a giant leap for sekt in the country’s steady rise to wider recognition among the world’s producers of top-quality wines. On October 22, a date celebrated since 2010 as Austrian Sekt Day, two new sparkling wine categories made their market debut: Sekt g.U. Klassik and Sekt g.U. Reserve, the “g.U.” indicating “protected designation of origin.” These first and second tiers of the premium Austrian sekt pyramid will now be recognizable by an official distinguishing seal of certified quality. And on October 22 of next year, the pyramid will get its capstone with the introduction of the highest tier, Sekt g.U. Grosse Reserve. One requirement for all three categories is that the grapes must be harvested in a single federal state. Permitted varieties range from indigenous grapes like grüner veltliner and welschriesling to international ones like sauvignon blanc, riesling, and the pinot family. While Klassik carries no prescribed method of production, the wines must spend nine months minimum on the lees and have an alcohol maximum of 12.5 percent. Often made from grapes like gewürztraminer, muskateller, and schilcher, fruity and sprightly Klassics make ideal apéritifs to accompany hors d’oeuvres, and they pair beautifully with light seafood dishes. Reserve sekts must be produced by the méthode tradi-

「Sekt」为德文起泡酒的意思,奥地利自 1846

tionelle , the classic process used for Champagne that includes a second fermentation in the bottle. In addition, the grapes must be hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed, with yields no greater than 60 percent. A required minimum of eighteen months on the lees gives them the maturity they need to develop complex aromas, distinct structure, and a finely beaded mousse. They must be finished “brut,” with a maximum of twelve grams of sugar per liter. Elegant Reserve sekts pair well with raw shellfish, white meats, and even highly seasoned dishes. Austrian Sekt Day marks the beginning of the annual high season for the country’s sparkling wines, with nearly twelve million bottles – almost half the annual output – enjoyed by the end of December. And this year, the celebratory sound of Austrian corks popping around the world is sure to be louder than ever.

果香,作为搭配前菜的餐前酒再适合不过,或

年以来也自产自酿多种风味不同的酒种,不过

2017 可说是奥地利起泡酒 (sekt) 大幅跃升的一 年 :它的知名度大增,成为许多全球顶级酿酒 大厂的心头好。 奥 地 利 自 2010 年 起 将 每 年 的 10 月 22 日 , 订 为「 奥 地 利 起 泡 酒 日 (Austrian Sekt Day)」 两款新质量的起泡酒也不得早于同一天正式上 市 :Sekt g.U. Klassik( 经 典 级 ) 以 及 Sekt g.U.

Reserve( 珍藏级 )。「g.U」代表「原产地名称 保护」 ,从此「奥地利起泡酒质量金字塔」中第 一级及第二级起泡酒瓶身上均会附有官方认证 标示,品质有保证。明年 10 月 22 日则会进一 步引进位于金字塔顶端的最高级起泡酒- Sekt

g.U. Grosse Reserve ( 特级珍藏级 )。 要符合上述三级起泡酒的必要条件之一, 便是所用的葡萄全部出自同一联邦州。官方认 可的葡萄种包括当地品种绿维特利纳 (grüner veltliner) 及威尔士雷司令 (welschriesling),以 及长相思 (sauvignon blanc)、雷司令 (riesling) 及皮诺 (pinot) 家族等外来种。 经 典 款 起 泡 酒 虽 没 有 任 何 制 作 规 定, 但 酒体接触酵母的时间至少需九个月,酒精浓度 最高不得超过 12.5%,常见选用格乌兹塔明娜

(gewürztraminer)、 慕 客 来 (muskateller) 及 西 舍尔 (schilcher) 等品种酿制,风味轻盈,带有 和口味清淡的海鲜盘一起享用,滋味绝佳。 珍藏级起泡酒需遵循古法制作,即酿造香 槟的传统作法,于瓶内二次发酵。除此之外, 所用葡萄需以人工采摘,整串压榨,收获率达

60%。酒体接触酵母时间至少需达 18 个月,让 酒液完全熟成,发展出多层次的气味、独特的 酒体及粒粒分明的泡泡。最终成果以甜度极低 的干型起泡酒为准,每公升含糖量不得超过 12 公克。风格优雅的珍藏款起泡酒适合搭配生甲 壳类、白肉,甚或调味过的菜式享用。 奥地利起泡酒日也代表国内起泡酒的年度 旺季正式起跑,到 12 月底为止,全国将消耗近

1,200 万瓶起泡酒,接近年产量的一半。今年, 想必在世界各地都听得到奥地利起泡酒的开瓶 声,欢乐庆祝气息为历年之最。

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Richard Geoffroy (left) and Alain Ducasse


PRESENTED BY DOM PÉRIGNON

臻致优雅

pursuit of elegance As any wine lover knows, Champagne’s second fermentation – in the bottle – is what gives the drink its celebrated sparkle. The yeast turns to lees that must be skillfully disgorged before the wine is sold. But Dom Pérignon, the legendary maker of vintage Champagne, takes things a remarkable step further by leaving the lees in the bottle for a slow and mysterious maturation until the wine reaches successive new “windows of expression” it calls Plénitudes. Lucy Jenkins interviews Richard Geoffroy, Cellar Master of Dom Pérignon, on striking the right balance for the release of his 2000 vintage second Plénitude and on pairing Dom Pérignon with the renowned cuisine of Alain Ducasse.  §  每个酒痴都知道,「瓶中二次发酵法」能为顶级

香槟带来最迷人的绵密气泡。香槟酵母在瓶中形成酒渣,而香槟则需经细致的除渣程序后才能够封瓶上市,成为高脚 杯中晶莹剔透的琼浆玉液。作为年份香槟界的传奇,Dom Pérignon把传统工艺再升级,将酒渣留置瓶中。经过缓慢又 神秘的陈酿过程后,香槟蜕变升华,并将依序达到富含特色的三个新阶段。Dom Pérignon依据陈酿时间将达到不同阶 段的香槟分为三个「巅峰 (Plénitudes) 」。Lucy Jenkins 访问了Dom Pérignon的首席酿酒师 Richard Geoffroy。在采访过 程中,Richard介绍了使2000年份「第二巅峰」P2 2000香槟散发和谐魅力的妙法,还透露了Dom Pérignon 的佳酿与法 国名厨 Alain Ducasse 名闻遐迩的珍馐相得益彰的原因。

JASON CAPOBIANCO

What were the vintage conditions for P2 2000? The year 2000 had some challenging contrasts between cold, rainy periods and warm and stormy weather. The summer was uncertain, often gloomy and overcast, which was worrying for us, initially. Miraculously – as tends to happen in Champagne – things brightened up during the last few days of August. Those lovely, sunny days continued right up to the end of the harvest, and that’s what made the vintage what it is. How has it evolved in the cellars? The additional ten years of slow, active maturation on the lees gave a new element to the P2 2000. The wine took on an added dimension of force and crispness – which also brought out greater balance. The wine is much more full-bodied, complete, coherent. Most importantly, it has greater harmony than its predecessor. The new sensations on the palate, along with

能否请您描述酿制 P2 2000 年份香槟的气 候条件? 2000 年是一个具挑战性的年份,当年 气候反差巨大,时而寒冷多雨,时而炎热 伴有风暴。那年夏季天气变化频繁,长期 阴雨笼罩。因此,我们一直都很担忧。然而, 法国香槟地区真是个奇迹之地,八月的最 后几天突然放晴,而且晴天一直延续到收 成结束,造就了 2000 年份香槟的理想品质。 P2 2000 年 份 香 槟 如 何 在 酒 窖 中 蜕 变 升 华? 经过又一个十年的耐心等候以及缓慢、 充分的陈酿过程,酒渣赋予 P2 2000 年份 香槟崭新的风味。此款佳酿既格外清爽又 富有活力,也从而带出更完美的平衡。这 款香槟酒体更为饱满、完整、连贯,最重 要的是整体比「第一巅峰」香槟更和谐。 晶莹的香槟在味蕾上流转,创造出轻盈滑 顺的全新感受,口齿间留下截然不同的活 力与独特体验。 若将 P2 2000 年份香槟拟人化,你认为这 款香槟会有什么性格特点? 精力充沛、自信十足、成熟和风趣。

P2 2000 年份香槟与 P1 2000 年份香槟有 什么差异? 2000 年份「第一巅峰」香槟口感清新 熟甜、气泡绵密,也和谐均衡。「第二巅峰」 P2 2000 则更具活力、更浓郁、更有生命 力和深度,呈现另一种全新腔调感觉。 Dom Pérignon 和 Alain Ducasse 大 厨 有 什么合作计划? Dom Pérignon 和 Alain Ducasse 先 生 已经多次合作。2015 年,我们在摩纳哥的 巴黎大饭店 (Hôtel de Paris) 举办 La Suite Dom Pérignon P2 美酒美馔快闪活动,负责 美食的正是 Alain Ducasse。季末,在巴黎 雅典娜广场酒店 (Plaza Athénée),他也一 手包办了 Dom Pérignon P2 美酒美馔搭配 体验活动。在 2016 年,我们再度携手合作, 在凡尔赛宫举办 Dom Pérignon P2 极致体 验活动。 Alain 总能透过精心设计的美食展现 他 独 到 的 创 意, 完 美 衬 托 Dom Pérignon P2 香 槟 的 每 一 项 迷 人 特 质。 这 次 Dom Pérignon 和 Alain 将再度发起创意和想法 的碰撞,于香港和北京这两处新据点联手 打造创新独特的崭新体验。 along the irrawaddy

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its lightness, create a completely different energy, a unique experience for anyone tasting it. How would you describe P2 2000 in terms of human characteristics? Energetic, confident, mature, and fun. How does it compare to P1 2000? In its first Plénitude, vintage 2000 revealed freshness, ripeness, effervescence, and harmony. P2 2000 projects an entirely new expression and draws on higher energy, intensity, vitality, and depth.

FORBES CONRAD

What projects have you and Alain Ducasse worked on? Dom Pérignon has quite a history of collaborating with Mr. Ducasse. In 2015, he was behind the “La Suite Dom Pérignon P2” pop-up at the Hôtel de Paris in Monaco. He also created a P2 foodand-wine pairing experience for the end of the season at the Plaza Athénée in Paris. And in 2016, we collaborated on “Dom Pérignon P2 Ultimate Experience at the Château de Versailles.” Mr. Ducasse always demonstrates his powerful creativity and his ability to highlight every facet of Dom Pérignon P2 in a culinary way. And now, in two new destinations, Hong Kong and Beijing, the two creative visions of Dom Pérignon and Alain Ducasse have come together again to create fresh and unique experiences. How did you collaborate on the menus, and what do you think have been the best pairings? We don’t want to offer simply a pairing menu, but rather an experience that presents a completely new way of revealing the emotive qualities in our wine. Harmony is

one of the key elements in pairing. The P2 2000 has an inherently more harmonious flavor profile, and we want to make sure that it will resonate with the ingredients and the dishes to create an experience that highlights every element in the wine. Hong Kong is a city known for unusual food and wine. What would you say might be the most adventurous pairing with Champagne that would excite Hong Kong diners? Coherence is the key, and believe in the subtle touches within a dish. But if you put me on the spot, perhaps a Hong Kong beef brisket served in a potent beef broth would most certainly create an interesting play on any local diner’s palate. What’s in store for Dom Pérignon in terms of new vintages? This is a significant year for us. In addition to P2 2000, 2017 marks the release of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2009 and Dom Pérignon Vintage Rosé 2005. The 2009 brings a really prodigious, sunny, bold, and generous decade to a close. Its fruit is fleshy and profound, and it sets a new standard in maturity. Active maturation in the cellar keeps magnifying the ripeness of the year’s fruit. We actually chose to release Dom Pérignon Vintage 2009 before Dom Pérignon Vintage 2008, because 2009 was a warm year, and the wine reached its first Plénitude earlier. Dom Pérignon Rosé is committed to bringing out the thrilling red character of its pinot noir. It’s only the blend and ten years’ maturation on the lees that allows us to go this far in creating tension between the red of the pinot noir and the character of Dom Pérignon. There was no doubt in 2005 of the potential to create a great rosé vintage.

你们计划呈现怎样的美酒美馔搭配菜单, 而其中最完美的搭配是什么? 我们想做的,不单单只是设计出一 份美酒美馔搭配菜单,而是打造一场盛 宴,以全新的方式衬托 Dom Pérignon 香 槟极富情绪的特质,其中香槟的和谐均 衡是一大主轴。P2 2000 年份香槟的特色 正是口感和谐均衡,所以我们希望每道 菜式的食材都能和香槟相辅相成,在宾 客的味蕾上产生共鸣,特显香槟的每一 项迷人元素。 香港以众多独特的食物和酒品闻名于世, 你认为什么样的菜式与香槟搭配最有冒 险精神,又能打动香港当地老饕? 我认为口味协调是关键,我也非常 重视每道菜式中的细致微妙之处。但硬 要我说的话,或许是配上浓郁牛肉汤头 的香港牛腩吧,搭配香槟一定能给当地 老饕带来十分有趣的味蕾飨宴。 Dom Pérignon 有什么新款年份酒值得期 待? 今年对我们来说十分重要。2017 年, 除了 P2 2000 之外,我们也推出了 Dom Pérignon 2009 年份香槟,以及 Dom Pérignon 2005 年份玫瑰香槟。 阳光充足、天气温暖、雨量恰当的 十年在 2009 年拉下帷幕。该年的葡萄丰 满浑圆,成熟度也刷新记录。酒窖中的 充分陈酿程序,更不断加强、特显该年 葡萄的高成熟度。我们甚至决定在 Dom Pérignon 2008 年 份 香 槟 之 前 抢 先 推 出 Dom Pérignon 2009 年份香槟。因为 2009 年天气温暖,这一年份的香槟也更早达 到「第一巅峰」的水准。 Dom Pérignon 玫瑰香槟力求特显来 自黑皮诺葡萄的强烈红酒元素。如此微 妙的组合再加上长达十年的带渣陈酿, 让我们实现了黑皮诺葡萄的红酒特色和 Dom Pérignon 经典特质之间的绝美碰撞。 毫无疑问,2005 年份玫瑰香槟绝对有资 格跻身顶级佳酿之列。 along the irrawaddy

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Peanut Butter Single Malt Flip

大使馆酒吧

the embassy affair

DAVID HARTUNG

World Class cocktails pop up at Quinary.

IT WAS AN EXTRAORDINARY transformation: Quinary, the beloved Hong Kong venue that also happens to be one of The World’s 50 Best Bars, morphed for just three days into The Embassy, which is destined to be one of New York City’s hottest bar openings of 2018. In celebration of Quinary’s fifth anniversary, World Class, the luxury collection of spirits from Diageo Reserve, went to great lengths to ensure that guests walking into The Embassy pop-up would be instantly transported to the brick walls of the Nassau Brewing Company in Brooklyn and its underground vaults that were once used to age beer. Legendary drinks maven Angus

这是个绝妙的转型 :Quinary 作为受 香港人欢迎的调酒酒吧,同时也是世 界前 50 大最佳酒吧之一,此次仅为 期三天,变身为将于 2018 年在纽约 市开幕的大使馆酒吧 (The Embassy), 届时相信会成为最引人注目的酒吧开 幕式之一。 为 了 庆 祝 Quinary 五 周 年 纪 念, Diageo Reserve 将在酒吧内举办全球 调酒大赛 (World Class),搜罗各种奢 华烈酒,目的是要让每位进入大使馆 快闪酒吧的宾客有如置身于布鲁克林 的 Nassau 酿酒公司的砖墙下、以前 用来酿造啤酒的地窖内一般。 传奇品酒师 Angus Winchester 精 心 策 画 此 次 酒 吧 的 完 美 蜕 变, 复 制 了 缩 小 版 的 超 豪 华 限 定 休 息 室 (The Residence), 只 有 受 到「 大 使 」 的 亲

“It’s a drink I put on the menu at the M Bar at Mandarin Oriental when it reopened,” says Winchester. “Flips are great, based on egg, sugar, spirit, and cream. On a molecular level, peanut butter and single malt is a bizarrely good combination. We use Talisker, as there’s not so much of the saline, but it has this richness and a little bit of spice that goes beautifully with the peanut butter. It’s a drink that makes no sense but tastes delicious and will wow and surprise you in equal parts.” 「这是我在香港文华东方酒 Angus 说 : 店 M Bar 重新开幕时酒单上的酒款。蛋 蜜酒非常棒,以蛋、糖、烈酒还有奶油 为基底。从分子的角度上来看,花生酱 与单一麦芽的组合非常奇特却又很合拍。 烈 酒 方 面, 我 们 使 用 Talisker 威 士 忌, 因为它盐份不多,口感丰富且带有一丝 香气,与花生酱真是完美搭配。这种酒 听起来不合常理但非常好喝,在各方面 的表现上均能惊艳全场。 」

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Winchester had meticulously overseen the metamorphosis, down to replicating the smaller, hyper-luxurious, invite-only space known as The Residence. Accessible only by a personal invite from “the ambassador,” it served a multi-sensory omakase-style menu of drinks accompanied by perfectly curated amuse-bouche plates. “This was an opportunity to sample some of the finest cocktails I’ve collected in my travels,” said Winchester, “the greatest and most interesting examples of drinks in our global hospitality industry.” Winchester, renowned as a naturally gifted raconteur, entertained guests with highly amusing anecdotes, all the while deftly crafting his elegant creations based on nearly three decades of experience. He was surrounded by his collection of cocktailculture ephemera, treasures he has garnered over the years. There were vintage shakers and swizzle sticks and rare first-edition treatises on mixology from the far reaches of the globe and the golden age of cocktails. With only eight guests at a time and four sittings a night, it was definitely the hottest ticket in Hong Kong. “I’ve been a friend/admirer/colleague of Angus Winchester’s for nearly fifteen years,” said Antonio Lai, founder and co-owner of Quinary. “I consider myself well-traveled, but Angus is truly a global figure. The opportunity to sit and sample his handpicked favorites – his travels in a glass – was a unique and world-class experience.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The Winchester

Renowned New York tiki expert Brian Miller named The Winchester in honor of his friend, who is the former Global Ambassador for Tanqueray gins. “Brian experimented for months to create a gin zombie,” notes Winchester. “Of course he based it on me, and I am amazed at how fruity, zesty, and delicious it is. It contains a secret gin mix that we obviously can’t tell you. But the drink does have Tanqueray Dry, with its classic juniper, coriander, angelica, and liquorice, alongside two other gins. Then there’s the elderflower liqueur St-Germain, lime and grapefruit juice, grenadine, ginger syrup, and a dash of angostura bitters. We shake all the ingredients and strain into an ice-filled tiki mug before garnishing with a lime wheel and cherry.”

享负盛名的纽约 tiki 调酒大师 Brian Miller 将这款调酒取名 ,以赞扬这位身为 Tanqueray 琴酒的 为「The Winchester」 「Brian 实验了好几个月才创 前全球大使的友人。Angus 说 : 造出这种又称『僵尸』的琴酒调酒。我知道他是以我命名, 但我非常惊讶这款酒如此地充满果香、辛辣而又好喝。材料 包含了特殊比例的琴酒混和,恕我无法透漏,但可以确定的 是,这种酒加入了 Tanqueray 干琴酒、经典杜松果、香菜叶、 当归及甘草,搭配另外两种琴酒,再加上 St-Germain 接骨 木花利口酒、莱姆、葡萄柚汁、石榴、姜糖浆与一点苦精做 点缀。所有材料摇匀后过滤并放入充满冰块的 tiki 雕像杯中, 最后用一片莱姆切片和莓果作装饰。 」

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A cube of gin and tonic sits on a dehydrated lime 琴汤力方塊及干青檸片

Cable Car The sidecar is a drink worth resurrecting, and Las Vegas–based modern mixologist and writer Tony Abou-Ganim created his spin on it with the Cable Car, named for a more prevalent mode of transport in the city where he was formerly based, notoriously hilly San Francisco. “Tony’s version is inspired by the legendary Harry Denton’s Starlight Lounge,” says Winchester. “He basically twisted a sidecar. It’s a delicious interpretation, with the wonderfully spiced Captain Morgan rum. Then there’s orange curaçao, fresh lemon juice, a bit of sugar syrup. We shake all the ingredients and serve in a cinnamon sugarrimmed cocktail glass garnished with an orange twist.” 「Cable Car」是一款值得重出江湖的调酒,来自拉斯维加斯的时尚调酒师并身兼 作家的 Tony Abou-Ganim,在老式调酒上玩出「缆车」这种新花样,取名自他 曾住过的城市,即以多山丘闻名的旧金山中非常普遍的运输工具。Angus 说 : DAVID HARTUNG (2)

「Tony 的版本是受到星光酒廊的老板 Harry Denton 所启发。他扭转了原本配方, 演绎出另一种美味,以 Captain Morgan 兰姆酒完美提味,接着加上橙皮酒、新 鲜柠檬汁与微量糖浆,摇匀所有材料后倒入杯缘抹上肉桂糖的调酒杯,最后放 上卷曲的橙皮作点缀。 」

自邀请才能进入。这个精致休息室提供具 有多重感官刺激的随机式酒单以及细心准 备的开胃小菜。Angus 继续说着 : 「这是展 示我在旅行中所搜集的最棒鸡尾酒的大好 机会。这些是全球最好也最有趣的鸡尾酒。」 Angus 是天生的故事大王,对客人说着 他的奇闻轶事,同时凭着近三十年的经验 灵巧地调制着美妙的酒品。包围在他身边 的是多年来所搜集、代表着调酒流行年代 的宝物,包括骨董摇摇杯、经典调酒工具 还有一本稀有的首版调酒专书,书中记载 世界各地不同的调酒方法还有调酒黄金时 期的相关历史。Angus 一轮只接八位客人, 一个晚上只接四轮,进入大使馆的门票可 说是千金难求。 Quinary 酒 吧 的 创 办 人 兼 共 同 拥 有 者 Antonio Lai 说 : 「我是 Angus Winchester 的 朋友、同事兼仰慕者已经有 15 年了。我认 为自己算是见多识广了,但 Angus 才真的 是国际级的人物。有这个机会能与他并肩 而坐、品尝他最爱的调酒,真是非常独特 且世界级的体验。」 along the irrawaddy

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS

5

Western

Foodgears Industrial International Ltd.​​

The Strand Restaurant

福基国际工业股份有限公司

5

Hotel G Yangon, 5 Alan Pya Pagoda Street,

Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau

Yangon, Myanmar Sun-Thu: 07:00-00:00 Fri-Sat: 07:00-01:00

Caprice 5

French

6/F, Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong 中国香港中环金融街 8 号香港四季酒店6 楼 Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual

Casa Don Alfonso​ 当奥丰素1890意式料理 5

Authentic Italian

3/F, Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa, Macau 澳门葡京路新葡京酒店3楼 q +853 8803 7722

Lunch: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: 18:30-22:30

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Yangon, Myanmar

Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong

q +95 1243 377

香港九龙新蒲岗大有街 34号新科技广场

Wed-Sat: 18:30-22:30

3105室 q +852 2322 1222

Fook Lam Moon ​

Lobby Lounge 大堂酒廊

福临门

5

5

Cantonese

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澳门路氹城「澳门银河」综合度假城2

Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新填海区孙逸仙大马路945号澳门文华

楼,2008 q +853 8883 2221

Lunch: 11:00-15:00

东方酒店 q +853 8805 8938

Daliy: 09:30-22:30

Dinner: 18:00-23:00

Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances ​ Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港仔黄竹坑香叶道2号One Island South 19楼 q +852 2890 1522

Afternoon tea & Asian delights Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun

2008, 2/F, Galaxy Macau, Cotai, Macau

q +852 3196 8860

Modern Mediterranean The Strand Yangon, 92 Strand Road,

Los Sotana 5

Mexican Lounge Basement, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong

香港兰桂坊德己立街21号地库 q +852 2970 3887

Daily: 18:00-05:00

DAVID HARTUNG

Babett Eatery & Bar


RESTAURANT LISTINGS

Quinary 5

Bar 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环荷李活道 56-58号地下 q +852 2851 3223

Mon-Sat: 17:00-01:00 (Closed on Mondays)

The Krug Room 库克厅 5

Modern Seasonal Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环干诺道中5号香港 文华东方酒店 q +852 2825 4014

Individual Bookings: Thu & Sat: 19:30 Privatizations: Mon – Sat: 19:30 (Closed on Sundays) A Ladies are requested

to wear elegant attire and proper footwear. Gentlemen are kindly asked to wear a smart shirt, long trousers and closed-toe shoes.

The Mandarin Cake Shop ​ 文华东方饼店 5

Chocolates and patisseries Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau

澳门新填海区孙逸仙大马 路945号澳门文华东方酒店 q +853 8805 8948

Daliy: 09:30-22:00

Yojimbo 5

Mandalay Restaurant 5

Burmese Belmond Governor’s Residence, 35 Taw Win

MEATS 5

Meat Bar G/F, 28-30 Staunton Street, Soho, Central, Hong Kong

Road, Dagon Township,

香港中环苏豪区士丹顿街28-30号

Yangon, Myanmar

q +852 2711 1812

Bar: 17:00-00:00, Restaurant: 17:30-23:30 (Closed on Mondays)

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Cocktails 37 Pottinger Street, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环砵典乍街37号 q +852 2576 1717

Tue-Thu: 19:00-03:00 Fri: 19:00-05:00 Sat: 20:00-05:00 (Closed on Sundays and Mondays)


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DESSERT

The Strand Restaurant’s Executive Chef Christian Martena celebrates a bounty of flavors and textures in Garden of Red Fruits. It combines chocolate crumble, white port jelly, sponge cake and vanilla cream, fresh fruits, strawberry and blueberry spheres, raspberry sorbet, and basil granita.

DAVID HARTUNG

「The Strand Restaurant」的行政主厨 Christian Martena 运用巧克力碎、波特酒果冻、 香草奶油和海绵蛋糕、新鲜水果、草莓和蓝莓球、覆盆子雪酪和罗勒格兰尼它冰糕, 创造出无论味道和口感都无与伦比的甜点「红莓花园(Garden of Red Fruits)」。

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TK32 Along the Irrawaddy  

In this issue we share the beauty of Myanmar: its stunning natural environment, its heritage, its craftsmanship, and its cuisine.

TK32 Along the Irrawaddy  

In this issue we share the beauty of Myanmar: its stunning natural environment, its heritage, its craftsmanship, and its cuisine.