TK31 Britain's Bounty by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 31

K I T C H E N

B R I T A I N ’ S

B O U N T Y

ENGLAND

Attention and Care 照料从心出发

SOUTH DEVON

Crab Catch 捕蟹之战

HONG KONG

The British Touch 英伦浪潮

STARTER

Chef de Cuisine Matthias Knilling of Vida Rica at Madarin Oriental, Macau, presents a savory starter duo. At top, a seasoned slice of cucumber is compressed in a vacuum sealer, hollowed out, filled with Gouda-ricotta crème, and topped with a caviar of white tomato and yuzu. At bottom, a crisp wasabi-flavored tapioca chip is laden with sous vide veal tenderloin marinated in truffle paste, sliced truffle, and salt. The garnish is bell pepper skin, flower petals, and radish cress.

DAVID HARTUNG

澳门文华东方酒店Vida Rica主厨Matthias Knilling端出开胃的前菜二重奏－把经真空压缩的黄瓜中心部分挖空，放入高达芝士，顶上再放上小巧清新的白西红柿及柚子；而芥末味的木薯脆饼则配搭以真空低温烹调，再用松露酱，松露片及盐腌制的牛仔柳，伴以红椒皮、花瓣和水芹，滋味满点。

TK | britain's bounty

T A S T I N G 31

K I T C H E N

B R I T A I N ’ S

B O U N T Y

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com 2802, Admiralty Centre Tower One 18 Harcourt Road, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3748 3756 Fax: +852 3748 3738

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the world has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT

Chris Dwyer

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IMAGE EDITOR

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TRANSLATION SERVICES

EDITORS

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Jalean Wong

Babel Communications

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DISTRIBUTION

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Prized for their low-cholesterol and low-in-saturatedfat meat as well as their soft, caramel-colored wool, Langley Chase Organic Farm’s primitive breed Manx Loaghton also rank among the few sheep breeds who regularly brandish a visually striking set of four horns. Langley Chase有机农场饲养的曼岛绵羊血统纯正，以较低的胆固醇及饱和脂肪含量，以及柔软的焦糖色羊毛闻名，它头上四支偌大的犄角霸气十足，引人注目。

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Britain’s Bounty, TK honors some of that country’s best farmers and fishermen and celebrates their mindful and ecologically conscious approach. But first, we start in Liverpool with a still-life artist who depicts traditional British desserts as rich in color and composition as they are in flavor. Our series of cheese tastings begins at the 2017 International Cheese Awards in Nantwich, where judges scored more than five thousand entries from more than fifty countries on such qualities as complexity, layering, and length of flavor. Over the past several decades, Britain has seen something of a cheese renaissance, led by farmers like Charles Martell. Since buying ten acres and three rare Gloucestershire cows and a bull, he has, through research and experimentation, led the revival of that breed and of traditionally crafted Double Gloucestershire cheese. In Woodbridge, Suffolk, we meet with pioneering farmers committed to raising pigs that live healthier lives. Reversing a decades-long trend toward increased industrialization of agriculture, their farm places animal welfare at the heart of its business. Insulated farrowing arcs, a larger nursery site, and a host of other amenities result in happier pigs and more delicious pork. In South Devon, we visit a shellfisher who brings a devotion to sustainability onto the seas, where he has toiled for more than five decades. After observing the effects of overfishing on local crab and lobster populations, he now leads initiatives to protect the fragile ecosystem through such measures as regulating the number of pots and the minimum catch size. We finish our UK ramble at three venues that are making the most of Britain’s bounty: a historic country gastropub that shines with simple but inventive dishes, a modern French restaurant whose chef cherishes his connections with local fishermen and gardeners, and a bar whose experimental mixology has helped make London the epicenter of world cocktail culture. Back in Hong Kong, we complete our journey with eight outstanding chefs who have brought the traditional taste of the UK to their cooking, each in his own inimitable way. Enjoy this British feast.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 8 Painted Puddings • 12 Rising to the Top • 16 High Fives 18 Function Meets Fashion • 20 Star-Powered Series • 24 The Tableware Experience 26 Oulton Does Food • 30 Wynning Combination • 46 Reinventing the Wheel 66 Attention and Care • 86 Crab Catch • 90 Fiercely Local • 96 Celestial Playground

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CONTENTS

100 Untitled Royalty • 104 The British Touch • 114 Translating Tradition 120 Mushrooms Meet Their Match • 128 Game Changers • 132 The Modern Mooncake 136 Street Food Stars • 138 Private Eden • 142 Sparkling Debut 146 Austria Ascending • 150 Fostering Seasoned Fans 158 L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

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128

132

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138

142

146

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FOOD & ART

彩绘布丁

painted puddings A Liverpool-based artist celebrates British sweet-tooth favorites.

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Summer Pudding ← Bakewell Tart

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

FOOD & ART

JOËL PENKMAN, born in New Zealand and now a British resident, paints a range of subject matter, but her definite penchant is for food, and especially for all things sweet and sticky. In several of her series, she immortalizes some of Britain’s most popular high-calorie classics. “A large percentage of New Zealand’s population came from Britain, so the food can be similar,” she notes, “but it’s not until you live somewhere else that you see the small idiosyncrasies.” Penkman’s signature quasi-photorealistic painting style emphasizes bold compositions on plain backgrounds that are clearly influenced by her six-year career as a graphic designer. “I probably would have fallen back into graphic design,” she says, “but I was very lucky to have a positive response to my paintings nearly immediately.” When deciding on a subject, she seeks out compelling colors, shapes, and textures and takes into consideration commonly perceived associations. Her paintings of iconic commercial brands appropriately feature the packaging they come in. “Subjects with a story behind them are interesting,” says Penkman, “but it’s also important that they look good.” The artist begins by buying or baking her subjects and carefully arranging them in the manner of a traditional still life painter, but working with such perishable items can sometimes be a race against the clock. Subjects are primped until perfect and then captured straightaway in paint or photographed for later reference. Her dedication extends to preparing the gesso boards she paints on and grinding her own pigment pastes for the medium she favors, egg tempera. A simple, centuries-old formula that fell from favor when oil paint was introduced, it is made by mixing finely ground pigments with egg yolk and water. Her inspiration for trying the medium came, she says, from seeing tempera works by Andrew Wyeth and New Zealander Grahame Sydney. “I like that it dries to the touch nearly immediately,” she says, “so I can quickly build up layers of paint. If used translucently, the surface has a beautiful luminous glow.”

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纽西兰出身、现为英国籍的艺术家 Joël

Penkman 作画主题广泛多元，其中以食物为题最为喜爱，尤其是香甜黏腻的东西。她把英国人气居高不下的多款高热量经典甜点，化为可永久收藏的系列画作。她表示：「纽西兰有大部分人口来自英国，对于食物的喜好也极为类似，但总要等到在新的地方生活，才能察觉其中的细微特色。」

Joël 擅长的类似照相写实主义作品中，可以看到单色背景搭配大胆构图，此一特色与她曾任平面设计师六年的经验密切相关。她自我分析表示：「我差点就回头再做平面设计了，但很幸运，我的创作得到很好的回响。」决定主题物件的过程中，她会将鲜明的对比色、形状、质地，以及可能产生的联想全部纳入考量，她与知名商业品牌的合作便巧妙融合品牌元素。她强调：「有故事的主题真的很有趣，当然也要做得好看才行。」

Joël 创作的第一步通常是直接买下锁定的创作物件，或经烘烤，再精心摆放，就像传统静物画家作画时一样。不过以如此脆弱和容易腐坏的食品为主题，有时就像和时间赛跑一样，物件妆点到完美无瑕后，要立刻抓住神韵画下来，或拍起来作为日后参考之用。她除了准备作画用的石膏板外，还会为自己喜爱的媒材－蛋彩，自磨颜料。蛋彩画有数百年历史，但在油画问世后便式微了。蛋彩画的作法很简单，将已经细磨的颜料、蛋黄及水充分混和就可以了。Joël 表示，她的灵感来源是受到 Andrew Wyeth 及纽西兰艺术家 Grahame Sydney 蛋彩画作品的启发。她说：「蛋彩几乎一画完就干，很快能再上一层，画得透一点的话，表面会出现亮泽，相当赏心悦目。」

Teacup

Pork Pie

Wensleydale Cheeses

Tunnock Caramel

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Le Formosa Bliss by Chef Julien Perrinet

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FOOD & ART

登峰造极

rising to the top Jalean Wong meets with the crème de la crème of the world’s pâtissiers as they showcase the preeminence of European cream.

COURTESY OF EUROPEAN CREAM (2)

IS PASTRY-MAKING ART OR SCIENCE? Achieving excellence in the pursuit certainly requires an active imagination, a cultivated palate, and an accomplished aesthetic eye, but equally necessary are solid technical skills and a keen understanding of the chemistry of ingredients. The icing on the cake, so to speak, is a practiced expertise in the choice of ingredients of the very highest quality. In an effort to prove this last point in the most delicious way possible, CNIEL, the umbrella organization for the European dairy industry, made plans to extend a challenge to some of the globe’s foremost culinary talent. Ten celebrated pastry chefs representing different geographic regions, including Saudi Arabia, United Arab Emirates, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Korea, Malaysia, Singapore, and Taiwan, would be invited to take part in this year’s La Crème de la Crème, the esteemed pastry event held annually in Singapore. Once in place and amply supplied with the finest European cream, the chefs, for inspiration, are given the event’s theme, “Blanc de Blanc,” and each is tasked with creating an original dessert with two requirements: it must include some incarnation of European cream and it must feature the color white. Welcoming the color qualification is Talita Setyadi, founder of BEAU in Jakarta. “I love a challenge and limiting briefs,” she says. “Limitation is a catalyst – it helps stimulate creativity.” Nicolas Bacheyre, pastry chef at Un Dimanche à Paris, shares the sentiment: “I allow my mind to wander and let ideas come to me. Pastry is a romantic way to express myself.” The chefs will have two full days to prepare and complete their pastries at the prestigious At-Sunrice GlobalChef Academy. Although most are meeting for the first time—and as rivals, at that—they soon become fast friends, abetted by the fact that they’re all in the same boat, rubbing elbows in close and unfamiliar quarters. Then there are the journalists milling about while firing off questions and the wellmeaning photographers angling for the perfect shot but causing a few culinary close shaves in the process.

糕点制作到底算是艺术还是科学创作？在追求卓越的过程中，少不了天马行空的想像、挑剔的味蕾及绝佳的审美，但非凡的技术和对于食材间化学反应的敏锐触觉，同样不可或缺。最后糕饼师傅更要凭经验从各式顶级食材中做出最佳选择，为糕点锦上添花。法国国家乳制品协会 (CNIEL) 特别精心策划了一场全球糕饼名厨挑战赛，充分诠释食材对美食的重要性。 10 位来自沙特阿拉伯、阿拉伯联合酋长国、中国、香港、印尼、韩国、马来西亚、新加坡、台湾等不同地区的知名糕饼师傅获邀至新加坡，参加备受推崇的年度全球糕饼界盛事 La

Crème de la Crème 全球顶尖糕饼师傅大赛。选手抵达、各就各位后，大会便揭晓今年主题「白中之白 (Blanc de Blanc)」：每位选手须制作原创糕饼，并遵守两条规定－使用大会提供的最高品质欧式奶油，并以白色为主题。雅加达「BEAU」创办人 Talita Setyadi 欣然接受主题色考验，她表示：「我喜欢挑战和规定，限制可以刺激灵感创意。」英雄所见略同，巴黎名店「Un Dimanche à Paris」糕饼主厨 Nicolas 「放飞想法，创意便会油然而生， Bacheyre 也说：糕点是一种表达自我的浪漫之道。」选手有两天时间准备，之后于厨艺界殿堂新加坡香阳环球厨师学院 (At-Sunrice GlobalChef

Academy) 制作原创作品。参赛者之间都是首次见面，但没多久他们即化敌为友，大家同在一条船上，碰到紧凑甚或不熟的环节还会相互打气。在比赛中，还有来自记者四面八方的提问，以及抓好角度开拍的摄影师，不免让比赛倍添刺激。在选手身旁，有充满热情的学院学员帮忙，即便如此，这场比赛亦是充满压力和专注力的良

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FOOD & ART

Every chef has assistance in the form of enthusiastic Academy apprentices, but, even so, the environment is a high-pressure mix of laserbeam focus and healthy competition, tempered by a genuine sense of camaraderie and mutual respect. Occasional calm moments allow visits to a fellow chef’s workstation for chat, observation, and admiration. “Look at that glaze—it’s gorgeous!” says Setyadi to Sarah Ni, who pours a luscious ivory finish over her cakes. “I took a very Chinese approach to my creation,” explains Ni, founder of Tascovery Studio Culinary School in Shanghai. “It’s based on the philosophy of the five elements, and the cream represents water.” Nicolas Lambert, pastry chef of Caprice at Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, brainstormed everything white, finally selecting lychees, white roses, and white raspberries from France. “It’s very important to me to work with the best,” he says, “and European cream is the best in the world. I wanted a pavlova perfectly balanced in flavor and texture, contrasting the rich, smooth cream with crisp meringue.” Inspired by the association between white and purity, Jewook Ko, chef-owner of Mille Gâteaux and Gâteau de Voyage in Seoul, opts to keep things as untouched as possible by forgoing gelatin, pectin, or other additives in his chantilly. “I use a lot of European cream,” he says, “and here, to highlight its pristine natural flavor, I‘ve chosen not to add any sugar.” The intense affair culminates with the presentation of the chefs’ masterpieces to an eager gathering of food journalists at Italian restaurant Forlino. Highlights include an ambrosial pandan-scented coconut tart by Cheryl Koh, founder of Tarte in Singapore. Mayada Badr, chefowner of Pink Camel in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia, presents Al Huda, a stunning composition of a coffee-cardamom truffle nestled within halva ice cream and enveloped in airy Italian meringue perfumed with orangeblossom water. And Julien Perrinet, head pastry chef at Grand Hyatt Taipei, offers his divine Le Formosa Bliss: oolong-teainfused chocolate ganache, pepper-vanilla mousse, and raspberry-basil marmalade atop a base of almond-raspberry sponge cake, all handsomely cloaked in vanilla-accented white chocolate. The results, all agree, are both audacious feats of culinary science and eminently edible works of art.

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及相互尊重的态度，让参赛者也能喘一口气。比赛中特别安排串门子时间，可以到对手的工作台聊天，观察敌情顺道表达对彼此的钦佩，是比赛中少有的轻松时刻。像

Talita 看到 Sarah Ni 用诱人的象牙白为蛋糕收尾时便不禁脱口而出：「淋面装饰超美的！」上海「Tascovery Studio 「我的作品 Culinary School」厨艺学校创建人 Sarah 说明：是典型的中式做法－融入中国哲学，以五行元素为主轴，其中奶油代表的就是水。」香港四季酒店知名餐厅「Caprice」饼房主厨 Nicolas

Lambert 绞尽脑汁，要让映入眼帘的一切洁白无瑕。最后他选用荔枝、白玫瑰及法国进口的白色覆盆莓。他强调：「我相信选用最好的食材是关键，欧式奶油品质之佳全球无出其右。我的帕芙洛娃蛋糕 (Pavlova) 的味道及口感要完美平衡，更要和丰厚顺口的奶油及酥脆蛋白霜形成美味对比。」首尔「Mille Gâteaux」及「Gâteau de Voyage」的老板兼主厨 Jewook Ko 从白色及纯净两者之间的关联出发，以「维持原貌」为最高原则，制作尚蒂伊奶油蛋糕「我 (Chantilly) 所需的吉利丁、果胶及其他添加物。他解释：使用大量欧式奶油，不加任何糖以衬托其纯粹。」，并在选手集中在新加坡意式餐厅「Forlino」各大美食记者前端出作品，让现场紧张气氛达到顶峰。各家精心之作包括新加坡「Tarte」创办人 Cheryl Koh 香气四溢的班兰风味椰子塔；沙特阿拉伯吉达「Pink

Camel」老板兼主厨 Mayada Badr 所创造的「Al Huda」— 将咖啡豆蔻松露镶进哈尔瓦酥糖冰淇淋后覆以质地轻盈、缀上橙花水以增加香气的意式蛋白霜；台北君悦酒店甜点主厨 Julien Perrinet 则端出美得令人屏息的「Le

Formosa Bliss」－杏仁覆盆莓海绵蛋糕上加入和着乌龙茶的巧克力甘纳许、胡椒香草慕斯及覆盆莓罗勒果酱后，以香草风味白巧克力裹覆，着实引人入胜。各位选手敢于发挥创意，比赛成品获得一致好评，俱是兼具烹饪科学及食品艺术两大特长的杰作。

Al Huda by Chef Mayada Badr

性竞争。尽管气氛高压，但选手彼此在赛事间培养的情谊

COURTESY OF EUROPEAN CREAM (4)

Le-pura by Chef Nicolas Bacheyre

Scenario Printanier by Chef Sarah Ni

Dacquoise en Blanc by Chef Jewook Ko

Pavlova by Chef Nicolas Lambert

与茶为「伍」

high fives A contemporary design studio brings the traditions of Taiwanese high-mountain oolong tea to London.

WU , IN MANDARIN, MEANS “FIVE,” and the recent exhibition Wu: Five Oolong Teas from Taiwan that was held during London Craft Week 2017 at Herrick Gallery in Mayfair was replete with that number. The London-based designer and curator of high-quality Taiwanese and Japanese homeware, Native & Co, launched its Wu series of five tea sets at the show, which it sponsored in partnership with the Ministry of Culture of Taiwan. The goal was also to showcase a selection of five of Taiwan’s premium high-mountain oolong teas, brewed in five types of clay to best bring out their flavor profiles. Native & Co’s studio and concept store were founded by Chris Yoshiro Green, who is British-Japanese, and Sharon Jo-Yun Hung, a native of Taiwan, for the purpose of making the classic and contemporary wares of Taiwanese and Japanese craftspeople available to British consumers. During the exhibition, a Native & Co team served tea to visitors at a white

TK | britain's bounty

2017 年伦敦精致工艺周于市中心梅费尔区的 Herrick Gallery 艺廊举行，其中台湾推出的「伍：台湾乌龙的五种风味」以数字五为主题，吸引不少目光。设计团队 Native & Co 以伦敦为据点，设计开发高品质的台式及日式家用品，特别选在工艺周发表由台湾文化部赞助及共同研发的「伍」系列作品，一展精选的五种台湾顶级高山乌龙茶，同时搭配五个陶土制作的手拉壶，带出最纯正的风味。

Native & Co 设计工作室及概念店由英日混血设计师葛林 (Chris Yoshiro Green) 及台湾设计师洪若筠共同创办，希望在英国市场推广台湾及日本两地工艺师兼具经典及现代风格的作品。观展时，Native & Co 团队成员会在白色的看似吧

COURTESY OF NATIVE & CO (2)

INSPIRED LIVING

bar-like table that could accommodate just five guests at a time. The surrounding space was minimally decorated with wood paneling and shelves holding the five teapots in the series. Traditional tea canisters were displayed on simple wooden plinths, reflecting the firm’s spare, almost primal approach to craft and design. The teas all came from Taiwan’s mountainous interior, where high altitude and crisp air fresh off the Pacific combine to make it one of the world’s ideal spots for growing top-quality tea. Traditionally in Taiwan, the beverage is brewed in pots of unglazed clay, whose porous texture absorbs the flavors and releases them into each successive brew. The five teapots in the Wu series are made from five different types of clay, and Native & Co carefully paired them with the five oolongs from various parts of the island to perfectly complement the natural aromas and tastes of each kind. Lighter clays, for example, were matched with fruity and floral teas and heavier clays with more mature, robust varieties.

台的茶桌前奉茶，一次正好只能容纳五位客人。展览空间走极简风，墙上的木板架只放着「伍」系列的五个茶壶。传统茶罐置于简单的木制茶座上，在在凸显设计团队工艺创作及设计的留白风格。所有茶叶均来自台湾深山地区，高海拔加上紧邻太平洋的清爽空气造就得天独厚的地理环境，为全世界最适合种植高品质茶叶的地区之一。在台湾，一般以未上釉的陶壶泡茶，多孔质地可以吸收保存茶的风味，让接下来的每一泡都保有浓郁茶香。「伍」系列茶壶分别以五种不同陶土制作，团队也特别根据台湾五个不同地区所产的乌龙茶性与之搭配，衬托个别天然茶韵及滋味。例如，轻质陶土便搭配带果味及花香的茶，较为粗重的陶壶则选搭风味成熟、浓厚的乌龙茶。 britain's bounty

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DESIGN

才貌双全

function meets fashion The premier maker of home kitchen appliances teams up with the first name in designer kitchens to take cooking to the cutting edge.

introducing the innovative products of Gaggenau and Poggenpohl to Hong Kong. “A kitchen must meet the need for functionality,” says Poggenpohl Export Director Bas Mol. “It has to find the right balance between designer looks and the capability for productive work.” Gaggenau representative Hendrik Kretzer, Regional Executive Vice President BSH Home Appliances, Asia Pacific, characterizes the approach of the renowned producer of precision home kitchen equipment: “We’re sophisticated without being loud and noisy. Our 333 years of experience show in the expertise and passion for materials that have always been part of our brand DNA.” That Gaggenau expertise was demonstrated at the opening by chef Ryan Clift, Gaggenau Culinary Ambassador, who prepared his latest canapé creations with the aid of the Gaggenau 400 series vacuuming drawer and combi-steam oven. Along with Clift, the ten star chefs and mixologists who are part of the ongoing Gaggenau Culinary Artisan Masterclass series make use of Gaggenau’s advanced technology to help home cooks move to the next level.

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位于铜锣湾的 Kitchen Infinity 最新陈列室 KI Cubus 在今年六月开幕，主力引入两大世界知名的高端厨具品牌，把两大品牌的创新厨具「Gaggenau」和「Poggenpohl」带进 KI Cubus 陈列室中展示。「厨房的功能 Poggenpohl 销售总监 Bas Mol 说道：性很重要，一套好的厨具必须在时髦的外观和烹饪的实用性之间取得平衡。」博西华家用电器亚太区执行副总裁 Hendrik Kretzer 描述 Gaggenau 对厨具的坚持：「我们的工艺纯熟却从不自满。333 年来，我们对厨具深刻的理解，对使用最佳材质的坚持，也就是我们的品牌精神，在每个细节中显露无遗。」

Gaggenau 的精湛工艺由厨艺大使 Ryan Clift 亲自体验，藉运用 Gaggenau 专业等级的 400 系列真空抽屉和蒸焗炉，现场示范最新小菜。另外，十位参与

Gaggenau 星级大师班的名厨和调酒师，將會讲授使用 Gaggenau 精密厨具的秘诀，把家庭烹饪提升至更高层次的技术。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

GAGGENAU AND POGGENPOHL, the world’s two leading brands in luxury kitchen technology, get showcase treatment in Kitchen Infinity’s new display center, which opened in Causeway Bay in June. KI Cubus is Kitchen Infinity’s latest success in

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

CHEF MOK 莫杰强主厨 EXECUTIVE CHINESE CHEF SHANG PALACE, KOWLOON SHANGRI-LA, HONG KONG AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA

名厨之约

star-powered series Chefs from two of Shangri-La Hotels’ Michelin-star venues lead Gaggenau’s latest Culinary Artisans Masterclass.

MOK KIT KEUNG has been executive Chinese chef of Michelin-starred Shang Palace at Kowloon Shangri-La, Hong Kong, since 2011. Few of the city’s chefs are as accomplished – or as awarded – as this practiced maestro, who recently held a Gaggenau Artisan Series Masterclass for more than a dozen eager students. “I was

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extremely happy to lead this class,” says Mok. “It gave me the chance to share my knowledge with students who’ve shown such great interest in Chinese cooking and have a real passion for it. Through the years, I’ve learned that cooking is a versatile art form that has no bounds.” The chef ’s first dish, which was inspired

by a time-honored Chinese favorite of stirfried egg whites and prawns, was one of cod accompanied by conpoy, or dried scallop, a classic Cantonese ingredient. “I took this traditional recipe and made it my own by using a Western ingredient, cod. It hadn’t been done before, and I created an appealing new plating for it. It’s been enjoyed by a number of notables, including Russian president Putin.” The recipe’s delicate balance of textures would be impossible without the most precise equipment, including the Gaggenau VI 230 Vario induction cooktop. “Gaggenau is a pleasure to work with,” says Mok. “The induction panel can be easily controlled to any desired temperature, and the settings are

Oven Baked Cod Fillet with Egg White and Conpoy

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

香烤鳕鱼赛螃蟹

so precise that perfect dishes are guaranteed. It’s professional-level equipment that can effortlessly handle the widest range of cooking procedures.” Mok’s second dish, pigeon, also involved a variety of techniques: steaming, frying, poaching, and baking. “The Gaggenau 400 series combi-steam oven aces multiple functions,” he says. “It can both bake and steam the dish, and it provides excellent ventilation during cooking.” But ultimately, according to Mok, the most important quality in any kitchen equipment is user-friendliness: “The easier it is to use, the more likely I am to use it, and Gaggenau always makes it easy!”

莫杰强自 2011 年起担任九龙香格里拉酒店米其林二星餐厅「香宫」主厨，莫主厨经验丰富，一路走来成就斐然，获奖无数，最近更获邀担任德国厨房电器品牌「Gaggenau」星级大师班的导师，教导十多位希望能让厨艺更上一层楼的学生。他兴奋表示：「每个学生都对中菜烹饪抱着浓厚兴趣和热情，很高兴有机会能和他们分享所知和经验。我深知烹饪是种包罗万象的艺术形式，没有界线，有着无限可能。」莫主厨的第一道菜香烤鳕鱼赛螃蟹是受长年备受喜爱的中式料理－滑蛋虾仁所启发的。他独创以鳕鱼搭配经典广式食材干贝，增色不少。他说：「加入西式食材鳕鱼能将这道传统大菜适度改良。以前没看过这种作法，当时还特别研发全新的摆盘方式，后来如俄罗斯总统普京等名人都尝过这道菜。」

这道菜的多种口感要能达到完美平衡，性能强大的设备也是不可或缺的要角。主厨对于可精确调控温度的 VI 230 电磁灶具赞誉有加：「Gaggenau 真的是厨师的良伴，这款感应灶具操控简单，可轻易调整温度，准确且没有丝毫误差，煮出来的菜自然也是美味保证。拥有这具有专业厨房功能的厨具，各种烹饪流程都能轻松完成。」主厨的第二道菜－黑鱼子百花酿乳鸽，也汇集了多种烹饪技巧：蒸、煎、煮及烤。他指出：「Gaggenau 400 系列蒸烤炉配备多种功能，烘烤及蒸煮可以同时进行，烹煮时空气流通性一流。」诚如主厨所强调，任何厨具都应以容易上手为依归。「简单的操作能会让人一用再用。有 Gaggenau，一切都变得如此轻松！」 britain's bounty

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CHEF IP 叶志祥主厨 EXECUTIVE CHINESE CHEF, SUMMER PALACE, ISLAND SHANGRI-LA, HONG KONG AT KI ISLAND SOUTH GALLERIA

WITH TWO MICHELIN STARS to its name, Summer Palace at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong, is one of the city’s most highly respected and awarded restaurants. Executive Chinese Chef Ip Chi Cheung is in charge of Summer Palace’s refined Cantonese cuisine, which is most often noted for its distinctively original flavor profiles and its artful presentations. Chef Ip’s recent Gaggenau masterclass allowed participants to witness his mastery in such creations as fresh red crab

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with plum and chili sauce and his stir-fried sliced lamb with fermented bean curd and spring onion. For the first dish, Ip combined plum, garlic, shallot, red pepper, crystal sugar water, salt, oyster sauce, and bean paste to a make spicy plum sauce. He then covered the crab with it and steamed the shellfish for ten minutes in the Gaggenau 400 series combi-steam oven. “It’s all about retaining the essence of this special homemade sauce that I created while experimenting with

various flavors, and the Gaggenau steamer makes it easy for every home cook to master precise control of temperature and time, the two vital elements in any steamed dish.” Ip thrives on interaction with members of the class: “I’m always very happy to share my recipes so that my students can make these kinds of Michelin-star-quality meals at home and apply the same skills that I demonstrate in cooking other dishes on a daily basis.” In his second dish, stir-fried sliced lamb,

GAGGENAU CULINARY ARTISANS

Steamed fresh red crab with plum and chili sauce

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

梅辣酱蒸花蟹

the performance of the Gaggenau VI 230 electric stove was particularly noteworthy. “It provides the same intensity as a conventional gas stove would,” remarks Ip, “giving the dish the required ‘oomph.’ Not to mention the fact that it’s much easier to clean up afterward.” But above all, Ip loves the versatility that’s possible when cooking with Gaggenau appliances. “A multi-functional tool is always preferred in the kitchen,” he says, “because it saves so much time and effort in simply getting the job done.”

港岛香格里拉酒店「夏宫」是米其林二星餐厅，为全香港最受推崇、获奖最多的顶级餐厅之一，厨房由中餐主厨叶志祥坐镇，他烹煮的极致广东美馔以别处难寻的原创美味及精美摆盘而闻名遐迩。「Gaggenau」星级大师班的学员在课堂上见识了主厨炉火纯青的功力，他更亲自示范烹煮他的招牌菜－梅辣酱蒸花蟹及葱度腐乳炒羊片。第一道菜，主厨先将梅子、蒜茸、乾葱粒、红椒粒、冰糖、盐、蚝油及豆板酱混合，做成梅辣酱，接着把酱涂于螃蟹上，再放进 400 系列蒸烤炉蒸 10 分钟。他表示：「这道菜的重点在于保留自创特制酱料的原味，那是我作多种味道融合试验时的成品。有了 Gaggenau 蒸烤炉，在家做菜也能将蒸煮料理的两大关键－温度及时间精准掌控。」主厨和学员相处融洽，互动不断。他强调：「我喜欢分享做菜之道，乐此不疲。学员现在也可在自家厨房烹煮米其林星级美馔，日常生活中也能学以致用，煮其他菜也能试着运用我示范过的技巧。」来到第二道菜－葱度腐乳炒羊片， VI 230 电磁灶具的出色表现令人惊艳。主厨指出：「电磁灶具的火力和传统瓦斯炉具相当，提供烹煮这道菜所需的火候，事后清理更是容易得多。」但真要提到「Gaggenau」厨具的特别之处，应该是适用于各式烹煮方法的可塑性，也是让主厨爱不释手的原因。他说：「谁都想要厨房里有个多功能厨具，可以省下很多时间及心力。」

Gaggenau Culinary Artisans Masterclass Gaggenau 星级大师班烹饪课程 October 9, 2017 1:00-4:00pm Led by Chef Lau Yiu Fai, Executive Chinese Chef of two-Michelin-starred Yan Toh Heen at InterContinental Hong Kong 香港洲际酒店米其林二星餐厅欣图轩行政总厨刘耀辉 November 2, 2017 1:00-4:00pm Led by Chef Tam Kwok Fung, Head Chef of two-Michelin-starred Jade Dragon at City of Dreams, Macau 澳门新濠天地米其林二星餐厅誉珑轩总厨谭国锋 KI Island South Galleria 19/F, One Island South 2 Heung Yip Road Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港黄竹坑香叶道2号 One Island South 19楼 For enrollment details, please call 2890-1522/2890-9111 or email events@kih.com.hk britain's bounty

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食器之音

the tableware experience An inventive designer helps chefs across Asia tell the stories behind their food.

DAVID HARTUNG (LEFT ), COURTESY OF LEGLE (2)

DESIGN

LIGHT, SPACE, AND ZEN-LIKE STILLNESS are all very well as elements of a restaurant’s interior design brief, but how can they be translated into a form that helps to express what the chef brings to the table? Enter designer Desmond Chang, a creative director for famed French tableware maker Legle. He has produced exclusive collections for more than a hundred chefs across Asia, including top names like Umberto Bombana, Shanghai-based Paul Pairet and Marc Meneau, and Hideaki Sato of Hong Kong’s Ta Vie. “The language of chefs is food,” says Chang, “and they speak in terms of culinary methods. My language is tableware and the story on the table. When chefs explain a daily operational problem, I interpret it in terms of presentation. We always work with chefs we like and respect, and when they reach maturity in their careers, most will have a philosophy that dictates how their food is served and presented – they know exactly what they want.” In May, the brand unveiled its most recent collaboration, L’Espace, a thirty-nine-piece collection for Odette, the two-Michelin-star restaurant inside Singapore’s National Gallery that is run by French chef Julien Royer. The collection, whose name is French for “space,” draws inspiration from Royer’s understated approach and from the restaurant’s pastel décor and the dreamy ambience of its lofty dining room. The organic feel of the plates’ uneven surfaces, matte textures, and muted gold and brown rim accents echoes a cuisine that emphasizes fresh natural ingredients. “When I first dined at Odette,” Chang recalls, “I felt everything was very twodimensional – the way the plates sat against the table. We wanted to take the presentation of the cuisine to 3D by playing with different heights and silhouettes, creating a multidimensional effect. We’re not presenting tableware, but rather a dining experience.”

Legle’s L’Espace collection gracefully complements chef Julien Royer’s spring menu at Odette. 丽固的L’Espace系列餐具与Odette名厨Julien Royer的菜式互相映衬，更显优雅。

光线、空间及禅风般静谧等元素都放在餐厅装潢中，相当引人入胜。但这些元素究竟要如何转化，才能传达主厨想透过餐点展现的理念？交给法国知名餐具品牌丽固 (Legle) 创意总监张聪就对了，他已为全亚洲超过 100 位厨师量身打造独家系列餐具，包括 Umberto Bombana、立基上海的 Paul Pairet 及 Marc Meneau，和香港「旅」餐厅的佐藤秀明等大名鼎鼎的厨师。张聪解释道：「厨师靠食物说话，而烹饪则是他们不同的说话方式；我的语言则是餐具及餐桌上的故事。听过厨师谈及日常营运碰到的问题后，我会试着用另一种方式来演绎。丽固一向与喜爱并敬重的厨师合作，他们的职业生涯迈入成熟阶段后，通常会发展出属于自己的料理哲学，作为做菜、上菜及摆盘

的指导方针，他们清楚知道自己想要什么。」五月时丽固宣布与法国名厨 Julien Royer 坐镇、座落于新加坡国家美术馆内的米其林二星餐厅 Odette 合作，打造 39 件的系列餐具。系列名称 L’Espace 为法文的空间之意，以 Julien 低调的风格、餐厅内装的柔和色调及挑高梦幻的用餐环境为灵感，设计出的餐盘带不平整的盘面，加上金铜质感及金棕盘缘，与餐厅主打的新鲜天然食材风格不谋而合。张聪回想构思过程时说道：「第一次到 Odette 用餐，店内环境整体扁平，尤其是餐盘放在桌子上的感觉。后来团队从高度、轮廓等角度切入，让餐点的呈现变得立体，创造出一种多维面向的效果。我们强调的不是餐具本身，而是营造完整的餐饮体验。」 britain's bounty

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DAVID HARTUNG

DESIGN

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英伦品味

oulton does food Catherine Shaw investigates a well-known British designer’s first dining venture.

NO DOUBT SPURRED ON by the success of his eponymous interior design stores, Timothy Oulton has recently turned his creative eye to the restaurant scene, with his first foray in the form of a dramatic fifty-seat space on Hong Kong’s Gough Street. Called Gough’s on Gough, the compact two-story space joins a diverse collection of popular restaurants and cafés along this quaint backstreet, ranging from traditional Chinese at Kau Kee to chicly modern at agnès b. Café and Ms B’s Cakery. In the case of his own eatery, open daily from lunch through dinner, Oulton stays true to his trademark vintage-inspired style, pairing it with a thoroughly modern British seasonal menu that stands out for traditional flavors presented with adventurous flair. Good examples of head chef Arron Rhodes’s beguiling variations include Scottish brown crab served with green apple, seaweed ewe-milk ricotta, and charred cucumber salad, as well as his dashi custard with shimeji mushroom, trout roe, and teriyaki sauce. Those seeking a little indulgence might end the evening with a dessert of lychee, passion fruit, mascarpone, and gingerbread. The modest but carefully chosen wine list is a breath of freshness compared to the norm across the city. Nearly overshadowing the tour-de-force cuisine is the eccentric fantasy world that Oulton has created as a theatrical setting. An audacious entrance sets the scene with Derek the Diver, a mannequin “doorman” sporting a 1940s diving helmet and Russian diving suit and submerged in a custom-designed fish tank with gold-flecked piranhas. Inside, the designer has tackled the challenge of the narrow rectangular interior typical of the street by reframing it as a casual café-style ground floor and a second-floor dining and bar area reached by a vertiginous staircase of Italian moonstone and brass. Both levels feature retro glass and mirror walls with distinctive black Chinese marble and white Carrara floors inlaid in a Roman mosaic pattern that creates a mesmerizing 3D effect, a look both cozy and sophisticated. britain's bounty

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DESIGN

A quirky collection of decorative artifacts faithfully reflects Oulton’s signature British style. 餐厅里精灵古怪的家饰藏品彰显Timothy的招牌英伦风格。

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Throughout, Oulton’s custom-built furnishings offer an eclectic mix in a midcentury British vein, including hand-dyed and tufted Argentinean leather banquettes and polished white Carrara marble inlaid with brass, a combination that creates an invitingly warm atmosphere. Oulton has a reputation for unusual lighting, and he happily lives up to expectations with a custom adjustable system, a modern day reinterpretation of 1960s Venetian-glass chandeliers that can be reconfigured to suit mood. The second floor is home to a private dining room seating six. At the apex of the spiral staircase is a feature wall with what Oulton calls “multiple personalities,” a series of three panels in different finishes: oyster shell that recalls the brick houses of Guangzhou, relief-patterned leather based on the ceiling of Rome’s Pantheon, and whimsically festooned white goose feathers. On the same level, a striking bar of luminous glass and marble is the perfect spot for watching the action while sipping a Churchill Martini, the signature tipple created in memory of Britain’s wartime PM. The tableware, too, has benefited from Oulton’s exacting eye for detail. A charming collection of mismatched cutlery and chintz-pattern plates gives a knowing nod to quintessentially British tastes. Oulton has something of an advantage when it comes to sourcing such treasures: immersed in his father’s antiques business from an early age, he quickly learned to appreciate the value of heritage and craftsmanship. The designer went on to raise the family business to the international stage by adding his idiosyncratic modern touch and expanding to about forty stores worldwide. His first in Hong Kong is conveniently located just a few steps away on Gough Street – ideal for diners who’d like to instantly replicate Oulton’s glam touch at home.

The cocktail bar of marble and K9 crystal glows from within.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

吧台以大理石及K9水晶打造，从内而外透着柔光。

Timothy Oulton 的同名室内商店设计大获好评之后，首度将独特的创意眼光转向餐厅，于香港歌赋街上效果卓绝、可容纳 50 人的餐厅初试啼声。两层楼的「Gough’s on Gough」空间相当精实，为略带古风的歌赋后街中餐厅及咖啡店的一员。传统中菜老店「九记牛腩」及「agnès b. Café 」和「Ms B’s Cakery」等现代时髦咖啡馆也都隐身其中，人气极高。 Timothy 的自家餐馆充满他的招牌复古风格，每天午餐到晚餐时间开放，卖的是现代英式时令菜式，传统口味加上创新大胆的惊喜元素，成为最大卖点。主厨 Arron Rhodes 引人入胜的多元菜式包括苏格兰黄道蟹搭配青苹果、海带羊奶及碳烤小黄瓜沙拉，还有高汤卡士达、鸿喜菇、鳟鱼卵及照烧酱。想再享受更多的客人也可以来份荔枝、百香果、马斯卡彭乳酪及姜饼特制的饭后甜点。餐厅的酒单中不乏店家严选的好酒，比起走夸张路线的其他香港餐厅，让人耳目一新。 Timothy 精心设计的戏院风格，让客人宛如步入奇特的梦幻世界，相较表现亮眼的美味料理也毫不逊色。入口设计风格大

胆，假人看门侍者「潜水员德瑞克」为主角，戴着 1940 年代的潜水帽、身着苏联时期潜水衣，置身于特制鱼缸，一旁则有金斑食人鱼穿梭其中。走进餐厅，可看到设计师运用许多心思解决歌赋街典型狭长方形空间的问题：重新改装后铺上带有随性咖啡店风的地板，顺着意大利月长石及黄铜做成的旋转梯拾级而上，便来到二楼餐厅及酒吧区。两层楼的空间均缀以复古玻璃，和配有黑色中式大理石及白色卡拉拉大理石板相间的罗马马赛克纹理的镜墙，营造出令人目眩神迷的 3D 效果，抢眼之外，看起来也相当舒服、别致。餐厅里，不时可以看到 Timothy 特制的家饰贯穿其中。家饰融合各式中世纪英伦风格，极具巧思，包括手染簇绒的阿根廷皮制长沙发及光滑的镶黄铜白色卡拉拉大理石，温馨气氛让人觉得宾至如归。独特的光线设计也是 Timothy 的拿手好戏，他也确实不负众望，精心制作出可调整灯光系统。他以 1960 年代的威尼斯玻璃水晶灯为灵感，可搭配不同的气氛重新配置组装。

二楼是仅能容纳六个人用餐的私人空间。顺着旋转梯来到最上一阶，映入眼帘的是 Timothy 称为「多重人格」的壁面，三个墙板各由不同材质打造：生蚝壳让人联想到广州传统的砖房、概念取自罗马万神殿天花板的浮雕纹路皮革，还有一面全以白色鹅毛妆点，相当天马行空。同一层楼的吧台则以玻璃及明亮的月长石打造，坐在这里点一杯纪念二战时英国首相的招牌调酒－邱吉尔马丁尼可是一大享受。 Timothy 讲究细节的个性，在餐具选用上展露无遗。看似不协调的餐具和印花棉布花纹餐盘意外和拍，凸显正宗英式品味。收集运用这类复古宝物正巧是他的强项：自幼家学渊源，跟着父亲浸濡在古董行业中，也很快上手，训练出对传统及做工的独到眼光。 Timothy 融入个人风格强烈的现代元素，让家族事业在国际舞台大放异彩，目前在全球已有约 40 间店。初登香港便选择了离歌赋街仅有几步之遥的地点，对于迫不及待在香港体验他华丽风格的饕客来说，再完美不过了。 britain's bounty

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永利黄金厨师团队

Wynning Combination Twelve culinary masters bring the best of the world’s great cuisines to Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace Cotai. PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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WYNN MAC AU AND WYNN PALACE COTAI play host to an entire

classics, along with American favorites, traditional Italian offerings,

collection of distinguished restaurants that rank among Macau’s

and extravagant sweets are all part of the abundant and diverse array

finest. Across the two resorts, award-winning, internationally

of dining options waiting at Wynn Macau and Wynn Palace Cotai.

recognized chefs continually demonstrate the kind of culinary

Twelve chefs with over three hundred years’ combined experience

creativity that has helped put Macau’s dining scene on the global

make up the team that leads diners on this exciting culinary journey

stage.

around the world.

With five Michelin stars among them and an elite Forbes Five-

Wynn’s chefs have worked across the globe and under some of

Star status, the fine-dining restaurants of Wynn Macau and Wynn

the most stellar names in fine food, talents who have helped shaped

Palace Cotai open the door to ingredients, techniques, and culinary

their skills and their distinctive cooking styles. Running deep within

heritages that take guests on exceptional dining adventures to

them all, of course, is the Wynn philosophy: unwavering commitment

nearby regions and far-off lands.

to excellence and to using only the freshest seasonal products

Japanese specialties, aristocratic Chinese cuisine, and Cantonese

sourced from around the world. BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Tomohiro

OKAZAKI Sushi Master Chef of Mizumi at Wynn Palace Cotai 冈崎智弘 , 永利皇宫路氹「泓」日本料理资深寿司主厨

永利澳门及永利皇宫路氹有着全澳门顶尖餐厅中得奖无数、享誉国际的名厨，他们以两大酒店为舞台大展厨艺，投注丰富的想像于料理，澳门因而得以在全球美食舞台上占有一席之地。永利的顶级餐饮阵容坐拥五颗米其林星星，更被《福布斯旅游指南》评选为五星级餐厅，各大顶级餐厅融合各式食材、烹饪技巧及料理传统，引领客人踏上难忘的美食之旅，一探邻近区域及遥远的异地美味。两大酒店端上丰富及多元菜式，包括日式美馔、中国宫廷菜、经典传统粤菜，加上美式扒房、地道意大利菜及华丽甜点任君挑选。黄金团队阵容共有 12 位大厨，经验合计超过 300 年，包准饕客这趟环游世界美食之旅精采绝伦。永利众位主厨曾在世界各地历练、于美食界多位顶尖大厨及鬼才麾下工作，过程中不断精益求精、形塑个人独特的烹饪风格。与大厨深入合作、发挥

By age fourteen, Chef Okazaki had a dream: “A relative of mine had a sushi restaurant, and I thought to myself, if they can do it, so can I – and I can do it better!” His confidence led to a job at Sushi Zen, where he learned the art from its founder, Chef Shimamiya. “He taught me that the customer comes first,” says Chef Okazaki. “Every guest has different preferences, and you must learn to read them. One style doesn’t suit everyone.” The visual arts are often a source of inspiration: “When I see a color, I can imagine what it tastes like.” His favorite ingredients are tuna and snapper: “In one mouthful, I can taste the method the chef used to cut the fish.” But his greatest pleasure comes from satisfying his guests: “I want to make food they’ll return for.” 冈崎主厨早在 14 岁时就有个梦想：「当时有个亲戚开寿司餐厅，我心里想，他们可以的话我也可以－而且能做得更好！」如此胸怀大志终让他有机会进入大名鼎鼎的「寿司善」，师从创业者－嶋宫勤大师学习寿司技艺。他回忆大师的教诲表示：「客人第一，寿司师傅要有能力解读每位客人不同的偏好，一招走天下无法满足所有人的需求。」视觉艺术及呈现也是灵感的来源，他说明：「看到颜色我就会想像尝起来的味道。」冈崎主厨最喜欢的食材为鲔鱼及真鲷。「只吃一

才能是永利的宗旨：承诺追求卓越以及运用来自世

口我就能判别刀工，知道师傅切鱼使用的方法。」不过看到客人吃得

界各地直送、新鲜满点的当季食材。

心满意足仍是他最大的乐趣所在，炮制出让客人一来再来的美食。

TK | BRITAIN'S BOUNTY

Chan TAK Kwong

Executive Chef of Wing Lei at Wynn Macau 陈德光 , 永利澳门永利轩行政总厨

From an early age, Chef Tak knew that cooking was his calling. His grandmother taught him how to improvise in the kitchen. “Now when I see ingredients,” he says, “I can immediately come up with three or four different ways to cook and present them.” This innovative streak serves him well at Michelin-starred Wing Lei, where he and his team serve classic Cantonese cuisine with luxurious modern twists: “I incorporate trends but always keep the original flavors – it’s important to preserve traditional Cantonese style. I have a passion for food and the scars to prove it.” Laughing, he pulls up a sleeve to show off old burns he wears as badges of honor. Chef Tak’s dishes come straight from the heart and are made with time-honored techniques he eagerly shares with his team. “This isn’t a job, it’s a joy.” 陈德光师傅从小便知道以后要走厨师一途，小时候祖母便教他如何在厨房即兴发挥，他表示：「现在一看到食材，脑中自然就会迸出三四种烹饪及摆盘的方法。」此种独特的联想法让他在米其林星级餐厅「永利轩」如鱼得水，他和团队总能端出具奢华现代风格的道地广东菜式，他自豪表示：「加入时下流行元素之际，也不能忘记保留正宗的味道，保存传统粤菜风格相当重要。我对食物充满热情，看我手上的刀疤就知道了。」陈师傅边笑边挽起袖子秀出手上的旧疤痕，一个一个对他而言都是代表荣誉的勋章。陈师傅一直用心做菜，坚持传统烹饪技巧，他也乐于与团队分享经验，毫不藏私：「这不是工作，而是件令人开心的事。」 BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

LIU

Guo Zhu

Executive Chef of Wynn Macau’s entire Chinese Culinary Operations 刘国柱 , 永利澳门中菜部行政总厨

In a career of more than four decades, Master Liu has mentored hundreds of young Chinese chefs in the expert preparation of timehonored Chinese recipes from the Tan, Lu, and Sichuan traditions. “Learning and teaching are on the same path, a two-way street,” he says. Before joining Wynn Macau, Master Liu was with the Beijing Hotel, where he worked his way to master chef. There, he prepared cuisine for such world dignitaries as the Queen of England, Henry Kissinger, and Deng Xiao Ping. At two-Michelin-star Golden Flower, Master Liu and his accomplished apprentices specialize in Tan cuisine, which combines southern and northern styles into an authentic haute cuisine that was once reserved for official Chinese banquets. “Tan is a very exclusive cuisine that only a handful of chefs can prepare,” he says, “and I love to make people happy with my food!” 在超过 40 年的厨师生涯中，刘国柱大师指导过几百位年轻中国厨师如何以最传统的方法烹调谭家菜、鲁菜及四川菜等道地菜式。他强调：「学习和教学其实是同一回事，方向不同而已。」刘大师曾在北京饭店工作，那里也是他 17 岁学徒生涯的起点。当时出入的都是政商名流，他要为世界，刘大师的徒各国的贵宾，包括英国女王、亨利 · 基辛格和邓小平烹调餐点。来到米其林两星餐厅「京花轩」弟们也俱是可以独当一面的大厨，师徒以谭家菜为主，加上南方及北方风格汇集而成正宗的中式顶级餐点，过往只有在宫廷国宴才吃得到。他指出：「谭家菜秘不外传，只有少数几位厨师懂得箇中奥妙。我喜欢用美食会客，乐此不疲。」

TK | BRITAIN'S BOUNTY

Hiroshi

YAMAGUCHI Teppanyaki Master Chef of Mizumi at Wynn Palace Cotai 山口博史 , 永利皇宫路氹「泓」日本料理铁板料理大师

Starting out, Chef Yamaguchi’s dream was to cook in the classic French style, but he found his training taking a swift turn when his boss ordered him to start learning teppan. The next eight years were spent perfecting his skills at Tokyu Hotel in Japan before moving to Ambassador Hotel at Tokyo Disney, where he worked for fifteen years under the tutelage of a master of teppanyaki. “My master chef was my greatest influence,” he says. “Japanese cuisine is very precise, and I learned so much from him.” The signature dish at Chef Yamaguchi’s counter is hard-to-find Yaeyama premium A5 wagyu steak. “In tracking down the best wagyu, I am very persistent.” Despite the occasional language barrier with guests, there’s always a way to communicate. “The language people speak doesn’t matter,” he says, “as long as the meal ends with a thumbs up!” 山口博史一开始的梦想是当个道地法国料理厨师，但在老板要他开始学铁板料理后，一切有了

180 度的大转变。接下来的八年他在日本东急酒店磨练厨艺，之后转战东京迪士尼的大使酒店，在铁板烧大「师傅是影响我最大的人，日式料理讲师指导下工作了 15 年。回忆恩师时他的语气满是感恩：究精准性，我有幸跟着他学习，获益良多。」「为了找到最好的和牛，山口师傅的招牌铁板烧菜式为珍贵难寻的八重山 A5 和牛排，他说：我可说是锲而不舍。」尽管偶有语言隔阂，但他总能找到和客人沟通的方法。「说何种语言是其次，做的菜让人竖起大拇指才是最重要的！」

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Nicholas

OLIVAS

Chef de Cuisine of Ristorante il Teatro at Wynn Macau 李浩宏 , 永利澳门帝雅廷意大利餐厅高级主厨 “My philosophy may sound like a cliché, but it’s true,” says Chef Nicholas. “You’ve got to cook with love, because your passion really does come through to the guest.” It was his grandmother who ignited his passion for cooking, and it was Paul Bartolotta of Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare at Wynn Las Vegas who inspired him on his culinary journey: “He introduced me to the freshest seafood and to classic Italian techniques. ”I keep learning a lot from my peers – if you stop, you might as well hang up your apron.” At Ristorante Il Teatro, Chef Nicholas explores Italy’s rich gastronomic heritage in menus that are fresh, seasonal, and, above all, delicious. “The most rewarding thing for me,” he says, “is working in an open kitchen and getting that subtle nod of approval from a guest as they taste their dish.” 谈到自己的料理哲学，Nicholas 主厨表示听来可能有点老套，但却是再真切不过：「做菜一定要有爱，唯有如此热情才能真正传达给客人。」最早是祖母启蒙他对做菜的兴趣，而拉斯维加斯永利酒店顶级餐厅「Bartolotta Ristorante di Mare」主厨 Paul Bartolotta 则引领他踏上这趟料理旅程。他表示：「他让我见识最新鲜的海鲜及何谓经典意式烹调技巧。我也不断地从团队身上学习，停滞不前的话，离放下厨师袍的日子大概也不远了。」身为「帝雅廷意大利餐厅」主厨，他不断开发菜式，探索意大利丰富的美食传统，端出新鲜、当季，以及最重要的一点，美味的料理。他开心地说：「在开放式厨房工作，看到客人用餐时微微点头表示肯定，对我来说就是最有成就感的时刻。」

TK | BRITAIN'S BOUNTY

Shi Wei

DONG

Chef de Cuisine of Andrea’s at Wynn Palace Cotai 史卫东，永利皇宫路氹逸蝶轩厨师长

“I had little interest in cooking,” says Chef Dong of his early days working in kitchens, “until I began meeting the great chefs who became my teachers. From then on, I was fascinated by food.” It was while working at the Beijing Hotel that he met Master Liu Guo Zhu. “I felt his magic immediately,” says Chef Dong. “He has had the greatest influence on me, not only in cooking, but in life.” Master Liu taught him the essential simplicity of cooking: “If the ingredients are seasonal and fresh, then the dish will be great.” At Andrea’s, Chef Dong and his team specialize in creating authentic Chinese regional cuisine, ranging from Huaiyang and Sichuan to Hangzhou and Suzhou. “I used to add all kinds of things, but now I know it’s unnecessary. The best way is the simplest – bring out the authentic flavors.” 史卫东厨师长回想起早年厨房生涯表示：「原本对做菜兴致索然，直到遇到厉害的厨师指导，就此开启我对食物的热情，从此着迷不已。」说的正是他在北京饭店工作时期遇到的刘国柱大师，他形容：「立刻就能感受到大师的魔力，他是对我影响最深的人，不只做菜方面，他还指引我该如何处事。」刘大师让他明白「简单」对于料理的重要性：「如果食材够新鲜，做出来的菜保证好吃。」厨师长及团队在「逸蝶轩」创作中国大江南北不同区域的道地菜式，从淮扬、四川、杭州到苏州菜都有。「以前我习惯一堆东西大锅炒，现在我了解到根本没那个必要，简单就是最好的作法，带出食材的原味就足够了。」

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Sammy

Executive Chef of Wing Lei Palace at Wynn Palace Cotai 何沛镛 , 永利皇宫路氹永利宫行政总厨

Both of Chef Sammy’s grandfathers ran catering businesses, and their passion for food rubbed off on him at an early age. “When I began by making Chinese buns in my grandfather’s restaurant,” he says, “my father told me to stay humble, be devoted, and success will come.” Now he is chef of Wing Lei Palace, where he transforms traditional food into surprising culinary creations. “I love giving ever-popular ingredients a modern spin,” he says. “Cooking isn’t just my profession, it’s also my favorite hobby, and I’m inspired by the things I see and experience – eating out, books, fresh produce – a simple picture can spark an idea.” In his pursuit of reinvention, Chef Sammy understands the importance of his audience: “Wing Lei Palace has an atmosphere that’s special for guests,” he says, “and seeing satisfied customers inspires me to push myself further.” 何沛镛总厨的祖父及外公都是做餐饮出身，他们对食物的热情也早早便在他身上发酵。何师傅表示：「最早从在祖父的餐厅做馒头起家，当时父亲不断耳提面命说，保持谦虚及投入，成功就会是你的。」他现在接掌「永利宫」，以传统美食为本幻化出各式令人惊喜的美味创作。他强调：「我喜欢在大家喜爱的食材上加添现代元素。做菜不只是工作，还是我最爱的嗜好，看到和经历的事物都是我的灵感来源。」美食再创作的过程中，何总厨清楚知道观众是何等重要。他指出：「『永利宫』营造出一种客人专属的氛围，看到客人满意，让我更有动力往前、突破自我。」

TK | BRITAIN'S BOUNTY

Burton

Executive Chef of SW Steakhouse at Wynn Palace Cotai 叶宝桐，永利皇宫路氹永利扒房行政总厨

While studying at Le Cordon Bleu in LA, Chef Yi began working for Wolfgang Puck’s company in catering the Oscars. That led to an invitation to join a number of Puck’s restaurants, including signature Spago. During that time, Chef Yi cooked for many international VIPs, including at a birthday party for former President Barack Obama and at a White House banquet. In 2017, Chef Yi joined Wynn Palace Cotai. “I’ve grown as a chef,” he says. “I used to be so focused on what was right in front of me, but now I see my surroundings better. The most important thing I’ve learned is that it’s all about using great products.” He finds no shortage of those at SW Steakhouse, where every night, in an elegant environment, Chef Yi pampers his guests with prime cuts of meat and the freshest of seafood. Burton 早于洛杉矶蓝带厨艺学校研读时期便开始为 Wolfgang Puck 餐饮集团承办一年一度的奥斯卡餐饮到会工作，出色表现让他受邀到

Wolfgang 的旗舰餐厅「Spago」工作。期间他曾为众多国际名人烹调佳肴，包括美国前总统巴拉克 · 奥巴马举办的生日派对和美国白宫的晚宴。「厨师生涯中， 2017 年，Burton 正式加入永利皇宫路氹团队。他表示：我不断成长，懂得运用好食材是我学会最重要的一课。」而在「永利扒房」最不缺的就是一流食材，每晚沉浸于优雅氛围，Burton 端出顶级牛扒料理及新鲜到无可挑剔的海鲜，将客人的胃照顾得服服贴贴。 BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

CHRISTOPHE Devoille

Executive Pastry Chef of Wynn Palace Cotai 杜柏翘 , 永利皇宫路氹饼房行政总厨

“When you finish dinner with something delicious,” says Chef Christophe, understanding that dessert can make or break a meal, “it makes the entire experience that much more special.” Chef Christophe honed his skills under “godfather” Nicola Canuti during his ten years with Groupe Alain Ducasse in New York and around the world, and his creative vision for Wynn Palace embraces the Ducasse philosophy of using top-quality ingredients in classically composed creations. “Pastry mustn’t be too fancy,” he insists. “Guests appreciate balanced, straightforward flavors.” Macarons are Wynn Palace Cotai’s signature dessert, and Chef Christophe gets inspiration for these and other delights from many sources, including paintings. “First, I draw a picture and ask myself if it’s possible,” he says. “Then I decide on flavor and perfect it with my team. Our motivation? We want guests to experience happiness at the end of a meal.” Christophe 总厨相信甜点对于用餐体验有决定性的影响，他说：「餐后甜点会让整个用餐体验升华。」他曾跟随有「教父」美称的 Nicola Canuti 于 Alain Ducasse 集团在纽约及全球的据点工作，来到永利皇宫路氹依旧秉持 Alain 的料理哲学，运用最高品质的食材组合变化出一道道经典甜点。对于糕饼，总厨也有他的坚持：「不要太华丽，客人喜欢的是平衡、直接一点的味道。」说到永利皇宫路氹的招牌甜点马卡龙以及其他美味点心，他表示灵感无所不在，甚至包括画画。「我会先画个草图，问自己可不可行，决定味道后再和团队一起作业，修到满意为止。动力从何而来？无非就是希望客人的一餐可以用幸福二字划下完美的句点。」

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Yoann

MATHY Executive Pastry Chef of Wynn Macau 麦约安，永利澳门饼房行政总厨

Yoann Mathy’s first foray into the field of sweets was as a chef de partie at a small restaurant in France that lacked a pastry chef. On a whim, he successfully rolled out an entire dessert menu. “I was totally alone, so I just taught myself,” he says. “It was tough to learn something as intricate as pastry that way, but you do learn more in depth.” After a post with Guy Lassausaie at his two-Michelinstar restaurant and pastry shop, he went on to work with pastry giants Jean-Paul Jeunet and Edouard Hirsinger. “My philosophy has always been to make it taste good before you make it look nice,” he says. “It’s important to stay within the traditional taste zone, nothing too crazy! I’m here to assist the other chefs at Wynn Macau by creating memorable desserts for exceptional meals.” Yoann Mathy 踏进甜点界的第一步从在法国一间小餐厅担任部门领班厨师，当时餐厅连个糕饼厨师都没有。有次他灵光一闪，成功创出一整套甜点菜单。他形容：「当时没其他人可以帮忙，只能靠自学。用这种方法学習复杂的糕饼真的很辛苦，但正因如此也学得相当深入。」接着 Yoann 有机会和 Guy Lassausaie 合作，在他的米其林星级餐厅及糕饼店工作，后来陆续和 Jean-Paul Jeunet 及「追求卖相好 Edouard Hirsinger 等糕饼界的巨匠共事。他强调：看之前，一定要先确认味道够好。在传统味道范畴内作业相当重要，不要玩得太过分！我在这里协助永利澳门其他主厨，是搭配他们无可挑剔的美食创作令人难忘的甜点。」 BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Kazuya

SHIMOMURA Master Tempura Chef of Mizumi at Wynn Macau 下村和也 , 永利澳门「泓」日本料理资深天妇罗主厨

A part-time job in a kitchen as a teenager set Chef Kazuya on the path to tempura master. “I found I had a real interest in cooking,” he says, “and I worked my way up to kaiseki, of which tempura is only a part. But I knew it was what I wanted to do.” Chef Kazuya loves entertaining his guests, which is exactly why they come to his counter. “Cooking tempura is definitely a kind of performance,” he says, “and I love to watch their faces while they’re enjoying it.” His authentic tempura, the antithesis of the heavy Westernized version, is sealed in the sheerest possible coating so diners can taste the succulent seafood with just a whisper of crispness. “The taste and texture change completely after thirty seconds,” he says, “so eat it the moment it’s put in front of you.”

青少年时期在厨房兼职的经历，为下村和也成为天妇罗职人奠定基础。他说：「我发现自己对做菜很有兴趣，这些年我也一直努力不懈晋升为怀石料理师傅。虽然天妇罗只是其中一部分菜式，却是我的热情所在。」下村主厨做菜极具娱乐性，也正是台前总坐满回头客的原因。他强调：「炸天妇罗确实就像一种表演，我很爱看客人入迷的神情。」他的正宗日式天妇罗和许多西化的版本成了鲜明的对比，裹上薄到不能再薄的面衣，客人入口后只听到酥脆一声，即可尝到新鲜多汁的海鲜原味。主厨说明：「只要 30 秒，味道及口感就会完全不同，炸完放到面前时一定要立刻享用。」

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Hideki

FUJIKAWA Master Sushi Chef of Mizumi at Wynn Macau 藤川英树 , 永利澳门「泓」日本料理资深寿司主厨

An uncompromising focus on ingredients and the ability to anticipate diners’ desires are characteristics that Chef Fujikawa picked up from his mentor, Master Chef Shimamiya at Japan’s Michelinstarred Sushi Zen. “The best way to learn is at a good sushi restaurant,” he says, “and I was fortunate to learn from the best.” Chef Fujikawa is unyielding in his belief that the most important elements in achieving excellence are the sushi rice, the sushi vinegar, and pure spring water. “You can use the best quality fish,” he says, “but if your rice isn’t perfect, nothing will be good.” Many things inspire Chef Fujikawa with new ideas, sometimes the guests themselves. “It may be something they say or something they do. The trick to making perfect sushi is to think about who you’re making it for – the guest sitting right in front of you.”

藤川师傅对于食材的坚持以及预测来客所需的能力，师承自日本米其林二星餐厅「寿司善」的寿司巨匠嶋宫勤大师。他说：「到一流寿司店磨练就是最好的练功方法，我何其有幸可以在业界第一人之下学习。」藤川师傅坚守自己的信念，用寿司米、寿司醋及纯净泉水三大关键元素缔造寿司料理。他指出：「鱼可以用最好的，但如果寿司飯不够完美，一切都是枉然。」藤川师傅从各种事物找寻新的灵感，有时来自客人本身。他进一步解释：「可能是他们不经意的一言一行，想捏出无懈可击的寿司就要不时想着服务的对象－就是坐在眼前的客人。」

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An unwavering commitment to excellence 坚定不移追求卓越

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FEATURE

津津「酪」道

Reinventing theWheel Writer Mamie Chen and photographer David Hartung meet three artisanal producers who look to the past – and to the future – of British cheese.

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CHEESE

“IT’S GOT A BEAUTIFUL SHINE TO IT!”

A team of three judges at the 2017 International Cheese Awards in Nantwich is gathered around a golden yellow wheel, softripened and with a very consistent rind. They pick it up, look over the exterior, smell it, and give it a gentle squeeze. Cutting into it, they confer over the brie-like interior. “It’s unctuous. It’s not runny. It holds its texture, but it’s extremely creamy. I love that supple quality.” Taste? “Definitely moreish!” Then marking their notes on the complexity, layering, and length of flavors, they move on to the next. They’ll have many more to come. Ros Windsor, who is managing director of Britain’s oldest cheesemonger, Paxton & Whitfield, and a ten-year veteran cheese judge, has also been called into duty for the competition. Cheesemakers from over fifty countries have submitted a record-breaking 5,685 entries. “It’s amazing,” says Windsor. “With just four ingredients – milk, starter culture, rennet, and salt – they can make the variety you see out here.” The continued year-on-year increase in

entries is attributed to a rise in participation from overseas and to the sheer number of British cheesemakers emerging on the market with new varieties and fresh takes on old recipes. “The Renaissance in British cheese started in the 1980s,” says Windsor. “A number of people started making some fantastic ones and worked very hard to create a market for quality handmade products.” Rationing during two world wars had forced standardized production, and postwar mechanization brought a cheesemaking Dark Ages, with centuries of knowledge and practice lost to industrialized methods. It wasn’t until milk prices dropped in the 1980s that farmers, seeking ways to get more value out of their milk, thought back to the farmhouse cheeses of their forebears and revived a lost art. The past decade has seen a surge in new producers entering the industry and shaking things up. Unburdened by the weight of tradition that binds their counterparts in France and other parts of Europe, young British cheesemakers have been experimenting

A judge takes in the aroma of a cheese before tasting it. 评审在品尝乳酪前，先感受一下它的香气。

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with milk temperatures, curd-handling, and aging techniques to develop fresh variations that have accelerated the evolution of the market. “Paxton & Whitfield have been around for over two hundred years, and we’ve always been famous for supporting British cheesemakers, as well as for showing a full Continental range,” says Windsor. “We’ve started to ‘guest’ some choices for a short time – that’s the only way we can give a showing to the full variety of cheese that’s now out there.” The export market also factors into Windsor’s plans for the company. “We’re in about twenty countries, including Hong Kong, and we know there’s a growing enthusiasm for the products. But we need to make sure we choose partners who’d be able to present the cheeses really well for us.” Echoing the importance of the local fromagier is Jeremy Evrard, whose palate and brains are behind Hong Kong’s legendary restaurant cheese cellars at Caprice, ON Dining, and Upper Modern Bistro. “The cheese scene is growing strongly in Hong Kong,” he says, “and the population can identify quality beyond just the pleasure in a name. So many restaurants now have cheese cellars to draw people, but you must be careful. Someone other than the chef, who’s busy and doesn’t have the time, must be responsible for the cellar. The cheeses grow and react in different ways to different areas of the cellar, and you have to treat them individually, as you would people.” Although he is an acknowledged expert in the cheeses of his native France, Evrard is effusive in his praise of British products. “The British are stronger even than the French now at preserving their history and heritage and in using milk from their local breeds of cows. I really love their farm cheeses,” he says. “They’re flavorful and they reflect where they’re from. When you have that, you’ve earned a position on the best cheese boards around the world.”

A cheese iron allows judges to inspect a core sample from the edge to the middle of the cheese. 评审可以用乳酪铁来抽取奶酪的边缘到它中心位置的部分作为样本。

2017 年英国南特维奇 (Nantwich) 世界乳酪大赛评审团的三位代表站在一块金黄、熟软且外皮质地均匀的乳酪轮前异口同声表示：「光泽很漂亮！」接着拿起乳酪仔细端详、嗅闻之余还稍微捏了一下。乳酪切开后，三人开始讨论这貌似布里干酪的内里：「油滑之余却不会太水，保有口感同时还非常绵密，柔软质地非常讨喜。」那味道如何？「吃了还想再吃！」他们依序为每一位参赛者评分，给分根据味道繁复、层次及延续性。在接下来的几个小时，要品评的乳酪还有很多。英国历史最悠久的乳酪品牌 Paxton & Whitfield 营运总监 Ros Windsor，是位有十年乳酪品评经验的资深评审，他因而获邀成为此全球最大乳酪比赛评审团一员。本次大赛总计收到来自全球超过 50 个国家，共 5,685 件参赛乳酪，打破了以往记录。 Ros 表示：「真的很不可思议，简单四个原料－牛奶、发酵素、凝乳剂及盐，就能变化出眼前的各式乳酪。」报名数量逐年增加，除了因为海外报名件数上升外，英国本土新兴酪农激增也是原因之一。本地酪农带着新品乳酪或以原有配方调整后的改良版问鼎大赛。Ros

指出：「英国乳酪业复兴可回溯至 1980 年代，当时许多人开始制作风味绝佳的乳酪，投注许多心力共同开创高品质的手工乳酪市场。」然而，两次世界大战期间采取的限额配给措施逼使酪农屈就于标准化生产。战后的商业化风潮更是让乳酪业迎来黑暗时代，累积数百年的手工知识及传统做法尽被工业制程取代。直到 1980 年代牛奶价格大跌，酪农想方设法要从所产牛奶中创造更多价值，因而想到前人的农家乳酪，失传已久的技艺终于重出江湖。过去十年有许多新面孔进入市场，重新改写了酪农业生态。不像法国或欧洲其他地区的酪农因遵从过往优良传统而较绑手绑脚，新一代的英国酪农勇于实验，尝试牛奶温度、凝乳及熟成技术等不同作法，发展全新品种，加快市场的演进。Ros 强调：「Paxton & Whitfield 历史超过 200 年，一向以支持英国在地乳酪小农闻名，但同时也展示欧洲各地乳酪的不同特色。前一阵子也开始让精选乳酪客座一小段时间，也唯有如此才能展示其他地方乳酪产品的全貌。」出口市场也是 Ros 公司经营策略的重要考量之一，他表示：「公司触角延伸至全

球约 20 个国家，香港便是其中之一，我们也发现当地对于乳酪的需求越来越高。但要进入地方市场，我们会首选有能耐一展 Paxton & Whitfield 乳酪之长者为合作伙伴。」香港知名乳酪达人 Jeremy Evrard 也和 Ros 英雄所见略同，他以高超嗅觉及经营头脑闻名，为香港 Caprice、ON Dining 及 Upper Modern Bistro 等顶级餐厅乳酪窖的幕后推手。他说：「香港对于乳酪的接受度不断上升，许多人除了叫得出名字外也能辨别品质优劣。很多餐厅都特别设立乳酪窖来揽客。但有件事要注意，厨师已经够忙了，根本抽不出时间，一定要另外雇专人负责乳酪窖。乳酪放在窖里不同地方，熟成及对应所处环境的方法不一样，需要个别照料，就像对人一样。」 Jeremy 在家乡法国早已是备受推崇的乳酪专家，但言谈中毫不掩饰对于英国乳酪制品的赞誉之情。他分享自己的独到观察：「比起法国，英国更能保存自己的历史及传统，善于运用自家品种乳牛的牛奶。所产农家乳酪真的让我爱不释手，味道丰富之余，也展现在地特色。有了这个优势，绝对可以在全球乳酪市场占有一席之地，竞逐最佳乳酪的宝座。」 britain's bounty

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Stinking Bishop by Charles Martell & Son. 由酪农Charles Martell & Son 所制的「臭主教」洗皮乳酪。

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CHEESE

CHARLES MARTELL & SON IT WAS LOVE AT FIRST SIGHT. Charles Martell remembers the first time he saw an Old Gloucester over forty years ago. In his work for the Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust, he’d been visiting farms in Gloucestershire and stopped by Percy Barton’s place in the hamlet of Cambridge near Stroud. Barton had bought two cows and a bull from Lord Bathurst’s herd, a breed with beautiful dark brown coats, white rear stripes and bellies, and well-developed, black-tipped horns. “They were magical,” Martell fondly recalls. By 1972, there were only sixty-eight

left in the world and the ancient breed was on the verge of extinction. Martell, having finally managed to purchase a farm of ten acres and a herd of three cows and a bull, set off on what would become his life’s mission: to save the breed and reclaim its eponymous cheese, Double Gloucester, from factories outside Gloucestershire that were producing it with milk from Holstein-Friesians. “This is how it should be done,” he says, “making the local product with the local breed in the local area. What’s simpler?” He became the first of a new generation to bring artisanal handmade cheeses back to

the small farms. Working from a 1932 recipe documented and published by a government dairy husbandry advisor, he admits his first attempt at Double Gloucester was awful. Fiddling with the formula and techniques, he persevered. Six years later, he made his first Single Gloucester by following another recipe in the same old document and began successfully marketing that as well. In 1997, Martell succeeded in winning the EU’s Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status for Single Gloucester. His specific intent was to protect the breed by giving farmers an incentive to use its milk, and the

Martell grows a large variety of perry pears bearing evocative names like Merrylegs and Lumberskull, which he presses and ferments to make the cider-like perry. Charles种植了不同种类的梨子，如名字奇特的Merrylegs和Lumberskull，收成后便用作酿制梨酒。

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Martell continues to draw from a decade-old batch of homemade perry to wash the rinds of his Stinking Bishop. Charles一直用有十年历史的自家制梨酒來洗涤「臭主教」乳酪的外皮。

Charles Martell 回想 40 多年前第一次看到老格洛斯特牛 (Old Gloucester) 时，可以说是一见钟情了。那时候他在野禽与湿地保育组织 (Wildfowl and Wetlands Trust) 工作，常有机会造访格洛斯特郡的农场，有次恰巧在斯特劳德市附近的剑桥小村落发现了 Percy Barton 的小农坊。Percy 从 Bathurst 勋爵的牧场买了两只母牛及一只公牛，这个品种身上带着漂亮的暗棕毛色、臀部及肚子有白色条纹，还有强健、尖端显黑的牛角。Charles 边笑边说：「当时它们就在那边，真的很神奇。Percy 对我说的那句『那就是老格洛斯特牛』深深烙印在我心上，这就是我要的！」 1972 年此古老牛种全世界仅剩 68 头，濒临绝种。Charles 买下 10 英亩地及三只母牛和一只公牛，逐渐发展成终身的志业：保存牛种，让双倍格洛斯特乳酪 (Double Gloucester) 再次发扬光大（这款乳酪为格洛斯特郡外使用荷兰种霍尔斯坦牛 (Holstein-Friesians) 牛奶所制作的同名乳

酪）。他说：「本来就该这么做，用在地的特有品种制作在地产品，还有比这简单的事吗？」 Charles 因此成了新一代酪农中将手工乳酪制作技艺带回小农场的先驱。他从一份政府酪农业顾问记录且发行的 1932 年配方着手，制作双倍格洛斯特乳酪，但最初的成果可谓惨不忍睹。即便研究配方及技术走了许多冤枉路，他却从未放弃，六年后他依循纪录上的另一个配方，终于成功做出单倍格洛斯特乳酪，行销发售也相当顺遂。 1997 年，Charles 获欧盟核可之单倍格洛斯特乳酪的原产地命名 (PDO) 认证。他构想通过提供酪农使用格洛斯特牛乳，来保护这个种群，这一策略奏效了。他解释：「所谓单倍格洛斯特乳酪就是一定要在格洛斯特郡、有饲养格洛斯特牛的农场才算数。也不用百分百使用格洛斯特牛的牛乳，毕竟牛种相当稀有，但尽量能挤出多少就用多少。现在有另外五家也在做，都是像我一样的小农。」

Charles 也不断从地方历史及传统找灵感，探寻且尝试使用其他牛乳及制乳酪技术。最为人知的乳酪就以味道极为浓郁的洗皮乳酪「臭主教 (Stinking Bishop)」莫属，他也以这款乳酪向曾与他的 Hunts Court 农场在同一条路上居住的西多教僧侣致敬。与僧侣们用啤酒或浓盐水来洗涤乳酪外皮不同，Charles 选用的是自家制梨酒。梨子酿制的气泡酒可改变外皮的 pH 酸碱值，营造出适合臭菌繁殖的环境，生出粉棕相间的颜色。梨酒虽非由当地令人闻之色变的臭主教梨子所制作，但为了让客人知道此款乳酪相当重口味，仍以「臭主教」为名。 Charles 从未接受任何正式训练，但也正因如此，他能开创出和大部分商人预期的「修道院」风格迥异的产品。他强调：「我乐于从刻意的错误中学习，从中观察结果如何。我做了出乎大家意料的事，别人认为我不会那么做，但我也不说什么。当时就真的很奇怪，却可以大获成功，现在我了解为什么了。」 britain's bounty

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CHEESE

Producers of PDO-status Single Gloucester cheese make a concerted effort to use as much milk as possible from the rare-breed Gloucester cows. 原产地命名(PDO)认证的单倍格洛斯特乳酪生产商都尽量用上可以用到的稀有格洛斯特牛乳。

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strategy has worked. “Single Gloucester cheeses have got to be made in Gloucestershire on farms that have Gloucester cows,” he says. “You needn’t use 100 percent Gloucester milk, because it’s recognized that the breed is rare, but you have to make an effort to milk the cows you’ve got. There are now five others doing it, all small houses like me.” Martell has also been exploring and experimenting with other milks and other

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cheesemaking techniques, drawing inspiration from the local history and heritage. The most well known of his specialty cheeses is the powerfully aromatic, washed-rind Stinking Bishop, which he created in honor of the cheesemaking Cistercian monks who once lived down the road from his Hunts Court Farm. While they washed their rinds with beer or brine, Martell uses homemade perry. A sparkling alcoholic beverage made from perry pears, it alters the pH balance of the

rind and creates an environment in which malodorous bacteria can thrive and impart a pinkish-brownish hue. Although the locally infamous Stinking Bishop pear is not part of his perry, he named his cheese after it to give buyers fair warning. Despite having had no formal training – or perhaps because of it – Martell has managed to create a distinctive product that defies what most tradespeople expect a cheese of its “monastic” type to be. “I

CHEESE

Production of the annatto-colored Double Gloucester disappeared from Gloucestershire in the 1950s until Martell revived it on his farm in 1973. 胭红色的双倍格洛斯特乳酪于50年代停产，直至Charles于1973年在农场把它重生。

love the idea of learning by making deliberate mistakes and observing the results,” he says. “I did that one specific thing that’s really counterintuitive. Everybody assumes I don’t do it that way, and I never say anything. It’s just really weird, but I understand now why it works.” Stinking Bishop has become an awardwinning cheese with high name recognition. It achieved commercial success after it was featured in the 2005 movie Wallace

& Gromit: The Curse of the Were-Rabbit. Martell’s small production facilities were already operating at full capacity and couldn’t meet the sudden skyrocketing demand. “It crossed my mind to sell the recipe,” he says, “but my wife said it belongs here, and she’s right.” Although Stinking Bishop may be carefully guarded as the goose that lays the golden egg, for Charles Martell & Son, Single Gloucester is still what stirs the soul. “It’s because of the Gloucester cows – that’s how this all got started.” In fact, Martell’s life work is far from finished. “I’m still not doing what I want to do,” he insists. “I’ve got thirty acres now, but I want a hundred and thirty so we can make all our cheese with Gloucester cows. My dream is that eventually Double Gloucester will be protected and only be made in the county. You have Gloucester cows, you’re in Gloucestershire making Double Gloucester cheese. That’s got provenance that can go on and on forever.”

「臭主教」曾获大奖肯定，名称也相当有辨识度。2005 年出现在卖座电影《超级无敌掌门狗：人兔的诅咒 (Wallace & Gromit: The Curse of the WereRabbit)》后更是在市场上变得相当炙手可热。 Charles 的小规模制造设备已经火力全开制作，依旧赶不上数量激增的订单。他曾一度想把配方卖掉算了，但太太一句「臭主教属于这里」让他改变心意，他强调：「她是对的。」「臭主教」可说是摇钱树，但对于 Charles Martell & Son 来说，单倍格洛斯特乳酪仍保有特殊地位，每每让 Charles 悸动不已。他说：「格洛斯特牛是一切的起点，有它们才有今天的 Charles Martell & Son。」确实，Charles 的一生志业才正要开始，他说明：「我尚未完成想做的事，现在我有 30 英亩地，但我想扩张到 130 英亩的规模，用格洛斯特牛乳制作所有的乳酪。我梦想有一天双倍格洛斯特这个名称也能受到认证保护，且只在我们这里生产－饲养格洛斯特牛，身在格洛斯特郡，制作双倍格洛斯特乳酪。一切其来有自，可以不断延续下去，永不止息。」 britain's bounty

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“DAD ALWAYS ASKS ME,” relates Tom Calver,

“‘How do you know what the cheddar tasted like in 1879? You hold it up on a pedestal like this is what we are trying to achieve, but you don’t know.’ I don’t know, but history would indicate that it actually tasted better then.” Calver, who is cheesemaker and director of Westcombe Dairy, is also a devoted enthusiast of the original Edith Cannon cheddar

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recipe that in 1879 was named Best Cheese in the British Empire. Ever since returning as the prodigal son from London to join the family business in the late 1990s, he has led Westcombe. The dairy has evolved through a number of iterations: first a traditional working farm with a dozen cows, then one of the UK’s largest producers of cheddar, then a mass-market block-cheddar producer, and

finally back to its artisanal roots, producing handcrafted clothbound truckles of raw-milk cheddar. “I feel that we, as an industry, have done so much tampering with nature in the past that the milk is totally different – it’s become more and more sterile,” he says. “So I’d like to try and go back and fix some of that now.” Calver has taken a page from viticulture

WESTCOMBE DAIRY

and focused attention on the health of the soil in their pastures. Replacing farming techniques that were based on volume and efficiency, they now plant a wider variety of traditional grasses with deeper roots that break up and improve the soil structure. “If you’ve got hugely diverse grasses growing on good, healthy soil,” he says, “then it would make sense you’d get better

Tom Calver 想起父亲常问他：「『知道 1879 年的切达乳酪味道如何吗？能放在这个底座上是我们一直想追求的目标，结果如何却仍不得而知。』我不知道，但历史经验告诉我，当时味道比较好。」 1879 年正宗 Edith Cannon 乳酪曾有全大英帝国最佳乳酪美誉，身为酪农及 Westcombe Dairy 总监，Tom 对其古老配方抱有极大热忱。自 1990 年代晚期 Tom

由伦敦返家投入家族事业开始，他一直是这门家族生意的掌舵者，期间也历经了多个不同的阶段：从只有十数只乳牛的传统小农坊开始，接着变成全英最大的切达乳酪制造商之一，再成为大众市场切达乳酪块制造商，最后又回归工坊本业，生产手工精装生牛乳切达乳酪轮。他说：「我们过往做太多扰乱自然秩序的事，牛乳都完全不一样了，变得越渐贫乏无味。我想要 britain's bounty

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Cheesemakers stack the slabs of curd in a process called “cheddaring” to stretch the proteins out. The acidity profile can be controlled by the size of the air gaps left between the stacks of curd. 酪农移除乳清凝乳层以清除其中的蛋白质，乳酪的酸度就是取決于由移除乳清凝乳层后留下的空氣量。

quality and flavor in the raw milk.” But also among the string of variables that factor into the final product are Calver’s dairy breed – mainly Holstein-Friesians with a sprinkling of Ayrshires for their fat and protein ratio – and even the microbial environment of the farm, which Calver is studying and trying to improve with the cultivation of non-starter lactic acid bacteria, known as NSLAB. “That’s what gives the terroir, the ‘Westcombe’ element. So how do we influence that?” Since most of the NSLAB are actually introduced from outside the udder, Calver has explored the elements around the farm that come in contact with the cows’ udders, and he’s working with a Southampton lab to map it out. He once ran an experiment in which he tried to increase NSLAB by purposefully rubbing the outside of a cow’s udder with hay. When he incubated a test

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batch of milk, it literally exploded from the profusion of gas-producing bacteria. “You can over-egg it sometimes,” he admits, “so you’ve got to be careful. But it was fun to see what’s there.” Calver opts to use raw milk, not merely to remain faithful to Edith Cannon’s recipe, but to protect the flavor-producing NSLAB that are often killed off in pasteurization. “Pasteurized cheeses have a two-dimensional flavor that instantly disappears,” he says. “With raw-milk cheeses, the texture is slightly different, and sometimes you chew and nothing happens at first. Then suddenly, snap! It hits and there’s an evolution or journey of flavors that keeps going and going.” Raw milk allows Calver to achieve epic levels of flavor he believes would be challenging, if not impossible, with pasteurized milk. To ensure quality and health standards, Calver only uses raw milk from Westcombe’s

own herd of three hundred sixty cows, with handling tightly regulated. Each evening’s milk, which is cooled and held overnight at 4°C, is mixed with the next morning’s at 37°C to average out to a warm temperature that protects the fat and protein structure during the transport and also allows NSLAB to flourish, which helps to inhibit the growth of pathogenic bacteria. Even though Westcombe’s facilities gleam with modern stainless steel, the process of cutting, draining, dry stirring, cheddaring, stacking, turning, milling, pressing, and manual larding and clothbinding all harkens back to the heyday of Edith Cannon’s cheddar. In researching the original recipe, Calver has rediscovered and begun applying an old method of cheddaring with the use of wooden racks at the bottom of the vat and thick hessian fabric pressed on the slabs of curd to create a better texture and flavor. By wicking out excess moisture, the cheese, at a specific pH in the make, dries out more, allowing it to be matured longer for a “premier cru” style cheddar. “But,” says Calver, “it takes a specific cheese to actually be able to go on to that.” Westcombe’s recently completed underground cellar will be a big help in achieving that goal. Their previous storage unit controlled the temperature by cold-blasting the cheese, ideal for the sake of refrigeration but terrible for maturing cheese. “Now we have a really nice, gentle environment that we can control,” he says. A robot named Tina the Turner occasionally flips the truckles to redistribute internal moisture and cultivate surface mold. His greatest challenge now lies in retaining possession of cheeses with potential for the full twenty-four-month maturation he envisions. “For the past couple years,” he says, “we’ve experienced high volumes of sales, which has been brilliant, but then I don’t have any to put aside. I’ve been trying to work out allocations, and I need to be firmer – that will have to be the next evolution!”

Westcombe currently holds 5,000 cheddar truckles at different stages of maturation in their state-of-the-art underground cellar. Westcombe先进的地窖現有5000 块不同成熟程度的乳酪。

重拾以前的作法，解决现在的这些问题。」 Tom 曾学习葡萄栽培，侧重牧地的土壤健康及培养。他放弃以量取胜及效率挂帅的农业技术，改为种植各种的深根传统草种，以此来改善整体结构。他解释：「良好健康的土壤用来种大量不同的草，得到的牛乳品质及风味更佳，一切顺理成章。」造就 Westcombe Dairy 高品质乳酪的其中一个重点就是 Tom 精选的乳牛种类－以荷兰种霍尔斯坦牛 (Holstein-Friesians) 为主，另因考虑到脂肪及蛋白质比例，还加上小部分爱尔夏牛 (Ayrshires)。农场的微生物环境也是重要的环节之一，Tom 不断研究，试着通过非发酵性乳酸菌 (NSLAB) 作出改善。「那是造就风土环境的关键。所谓的 Westcombe 特色，那该从何着手呢？」大部分非发酵性乳酸菌都是从乳牛乳房外的地方而来，因此 Tom 走遍农场各地寻找各种可能和乳房接触的东西，也和南安普顿的一个实验室合作，希望能测出结果。他也曾刻意用稻草触碰乳牛乳房，想借以增加非发酵性乳酸菌数。有次，在培

养一批测试乳时，产气菌数量爆表，他回想说：「可能一次培育的量太多，要小心才行，不过看到发生了什么事还是很好玩。」 Tom 偏好使用生牛乳，不仅为了遵行 Edith Cannon 原本的配方，更是要保护可以产生风味的非发酵性乳酸菌不至于在杀菌过程中完全消失。他说明：「杀菌过的乳酪气味比较平，入口后立刻不见。生牛乳乳酪质地有些不同，放进嘴里嚼，一开始可能没什么感觉，但味道会突然涌现，萦绕久久不去。」有了生牛乳，Tom 创造出完全有资格挑战杀菌牛乳的美妙风味。为了确定达到品质及健康标准无虞， Tom 只选用自家 360 头乳牛所产的生牛乳，并且每一步骤都经过严格把关。每天傍晚的牛乳都经冷却，4°C 冷藏过夜后再与隔天上午 37°C 的牛乳混合成温牛乳，以防脂肪及蛋白质结构在运送过程中受到影响，同时也能让发酵性乳酸菌持续繁衍，可有效抑制其他病原菌体的滋生。 Westcombe Dairy 工厂摆满许多现代不锈钢设备，但切割、沥干、干搅、移除乳清、

碾磨、层叠、压缩及包装一切依循 Edith Cannon 切达乳酪时期的古法。 Tom 在研究原始配方过程中重新发现古老的移除乳清方法，恢复在大桶底端使用木架的做法，用粗麻布覆盖住凝乳层，以收更好的口感及风味。多余水分逼出后，乳酪得以维持固定的 pH 酸碱值，从而变得更干、熟成期更久，最终成为「顶级特等」乳酪。不过 Tom 强调，是特定的乳酪才能如此操作。 Westcombe Dairy 近来竣工的地窖将让这一切方便许多。以前存放的空间以冷吹技术来控制温度，冷藏效果好，却不利于乳酪熟成。Tom 表示现在已有所不同：「环境极佳，相当温和，也方便掌控。」名为「Tina the Turner」的机械器具可以不时翻动乳酪轮重新配置内部湿度，培养表面的霉菌。目前最大的挑战在于如何保存一手打造、熟成期最长可达 24 个月的乳酪。他自己解释：「过去几年销量冲得很高，表现很亮眼没错，但毫无存货留下。我在配置上重新动了脑筋，剩下的就是立场要更坚定－将会迎来下一波变革！」 britain's bounty

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“YOU WILL WASH YOUR HANDS more today

than you have ever washed your hands,” warns Ben Skailes, who shares with his cousin Robin the day-to-day managerial responsibilities of family-owned Cropwell Bishop Creamery. “You probably did it at the other dairies, but I’d be surprised if you did it as much as you will today. The perfect environment for making great Stilton is also the perfect environment for things we don’t want. As a blue cheese producer, we’ve got to be right on our game.” True to form, the hygiene protocols, including hairnets, sterile wellies, protective outer clothing, and, most definitely, washed and sanitized hands, are adhered to strictly and meticulously. And if industry awards are any indication, Cropwell Bishop is, indeed, right on its game. This year, their Blue Stilton earned the highest possible three-star rating from the prestigious Great Taste awards, matching their Beauvale in 2015. The Blue Stilton recently won two gold awards at the 2017 International Cheese Awards, and the Beauvale was named Best Blue at the 2017 British Cheese Awards. The impressive collection of honors is a testament to the way British cheesemakers have demonstrated both a reverence for tradition and a talent for innovation. Stilton, with its centuries-long heritage in Great Britain, was officially protected by a Stilton Cheesemakers’ Association certification trademark in 1966. Thirty years later, it became the first English cheese to be granted PDO status within the EU. Today, there are only six producers of Blue Stilton, all of them in the three legally permitted counties of Derbyshire, Leicestershire, and Nottinghamshire and all of them audited every year against the benchmarks set by a fifty-year-old recipe. Cropwell Bishop is one of the two Stilton producers that continue the artisanal traditions of gently hand-ladling curds from the vats to the draining tables and “rubbing up” the cheeses to seal the roundels from oxygen for a fiveweek maturation period, after which they are pierced with stainless steel needles to activate the blue mold within. The hand-ladling and rubbing-up steps are

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CROPWELL BISHOP

Cropwell Bishop continues artisanal traditions like hand-ladling curds (above) and “rubbing up” cheeses (opposite, top) to seal them for maturation. Cropwell Bishop遵从传统以人力舀起凝乳（上图）及摩擦乳酪（右图），避免乳酪与氧气接触。

laborious, time-consuming processes that have quicker modern alternatives, but the Skaileses remain traditionalists. Their classic rennet Blue Stilton follows a special recipe first used in the 1950s at the family’s former dairy in Melton Mowbray. “The animal rennet seems to hold on to a bit more moisture in the cheese than the microbial rennet,” says Robin, “and I find the traditional Stilton has a better, softer texture.” Some producers wrap their cheese in airtight cling film, others use a machine to rub the coat. At Cropwell Bishop, a team rubs up the cheeses by hand with domestic pallet knives. The process, which may take several minutes per roundel, is unique to Stiltons, and Robin Skailes wouldn’t think of doing it any other way: “For us, Stilton is Stilton.

和堂兄弟 Robin 共同经营家族 Cropwell Bishop 乳酪厂的 Ben Skailes 发出警告表示：「手要洗到干净到不能再干净才行！其他农场可能也会这样说，但有要求到我们这个程度的可不多见。制造斯提尔顿 (Stilton) 乳酪的理想环境，也可能变成不速之客的温床。作为蓝乳酪制造商，每一步棋都要下得精准才行。」一切照规矩来，卫生规章上的项目，包括发网、无尘鞋、防护衣一个都不能少，当然双手也一定要洗净消毒。在此严格把关，完全马虎不得。若说业界奖项有什么指标的话，Cropwell Bishop 绝对是个中佼佼者。今年地位崇高的「英国星级美食大奖 (Great Tastes Awards)」大会上，他们的斯提尔顿蓝乳酪获最高三颗星的荣誉，而在 2015 年他们的波维乳酪 (Beauvale) 也拿下了此项大奖。斯提尔顿蓝乳酪另外还在 2017 年世界乳酪大赛抱走两项金奖，波维乳酪则是在 2017 年英国乳酪大赛中赢得最佳蓝乳酪的美名。屡屡获得大奖，对于英国酪农尊重传统，同时不断开发创新产品的作法确是一大肯定。在英国已有数百年历史的斯提尔顿乳酪于 1966 年正式注册斯提尔顿乳酪制造商协会商标，30 年后成为首个获得欧盟原产地命名 (PDO) 认证的英国乳酪。时至今日也仅有六个斯提尔顿蓝乳酪制造商，全部都位于德比郡、莱斯特郡及诺丁汉郡等三个合法认证地区，每年还须经稽核，检视所产乳酪制程及品质是否与 50 年历史的老配方一致。 Cropwell Bishop 是目前仍然沿用古法的两家工厂之一：以人力从木桶舀起凝乳层后放上沥干桌，「擦磨」乳酪以封住乳酪轮圈洞，避免氧化；熟成期约五周，之后以不锈钢针刺洞唤醒乳酪中的蓝霉菌。舀起及擦磨作业相当耗费人力及时间，多以效率更快的现代方法取代，但 Skailes 家族依旧坚持传统不变。他们的凝乳斯提尔顿蓝乳酪遵循

(Left) After five weeks, and then a second time a week later, the roundels are pierced with stainless steel needles to aerate the cheese and activate the blue mold within. 五周后，熟成的乳酪需以不锈钢针在乳酪上刺洞，一周后再重覆这工序，以唤醒乳酪中的蓝霉菌。

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The cheese is graded from both the top and the bottom halves of each roundel to assess the texture, the color of the curd, and the distribution of the veining. 乳酪轮上下半部分的质地、颜色和纹理分布都是乳酪的评分标准。

It’s an old-fashioned cheese, and we have to embrace the tradition of it.” He tells of once testing a different yeast that resulted in a much softer texture than anticipated. Though the cheese still technically fell within Stilton’s legal definitions, the cousins decided not to continue with the yeast: “It didn’t give the cheese the quality we were looking for.” This isn’t to suggest that they haven’t explored new ways to improve quality. “Stilton is tricky,” says Ben, “and we’re still learning. We’re tinkering with things to adjust as the milk and its fat content change through the year.” Although they continually invest in methods to upgrade hygiene and safety around the facilities and have installed new refrigeration equipment to improve the way they mature the cheese, the basic process remains unchanged. Because Stilton’s strict traditional methods leave little room for innovation, Robin

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turned instead to developing an entirely new type of cheese. “I wanted a more mildflavored cheese to try to draw a different market to our products,” he says, “people in their twenties and a bit more trendy. I’ve been working on it for quite a time. It took two years of trying to come up with a product that was good enough to launch commercially. And the recipe continued to evolve for about six years afterwards into what it is now.” Thus was born Beauvale, a soft blue cheese with a thin, edible rind and a creamy rich texture that becomes deliciously runny with age. A mere two days after our interview, Beauvale brought home another collection of awards from the Bakewell Show: the titles Supreme Champion and Best Blue Cheese and the Chatsworth Choice trophy, awarded to the cheese she “would most like to serve her guests” by the judge, Amanda Carmen Cavendish, Duchess of Devonshire.

特殊配方，最早可回溯至 1950 年代，由家族农场还在梅尔顿莫布雷市时期所使用。Robin 表示：「动物性凝乳比起微生物凝乳更能维持乳酪的湿润度，传统作法制造的斯提尔顿乳酪口感更好更软。」有些酪农选择将乳酪以气密薄膜包覆，有些则偏好用机器把皮磨掉。在 Cropwell Bishop 则是有一整组人负责用家庭抹刀手工擦磨乳酪。每一个乳酪轮的处理过程都要好几分钟。这是专属斯提尔顿的方法，Robin 从没想过要用其他的作法，他强调：「对我们来说，斯提尔顿就是斯提尔顿，是历史悠久的乳酪，我们就该敞开双臂接受传统才对。」他说过去曾试过不同的酵母，做出来的乳酪质地较预期软了许多，尽管乳酪严格来说仍落在斯提尔顿的规定范围之内，但这对堂兄弟仍认为这酵母并不适用，他们表示：「这未能达到我们想要的乳酪品质。」不过，这不表示他们只会墨守传统，不寻求改善品质的新法。Ben 指出：「斯提尔顿非常深奥，我们也是边做边学。牛乳及脂肪含量每年都会变，我们也要赶忙随之调整。」Cropwell Bishop 持续投资升级设备卫生及安全规格，也装设全新冷藏设备以改善乳酪熟成的表现，但只有基本流程多年来从未有一丝改变。也因为斯提尔顿严谨的传统制作流程少有可以创新的空间，Robin 转而投入发展全新的乳酪品种。他表示：「我想研发味道较温和的乳酪，吸引不同的客群，例如 20 多岁、比较注重时髦的年轻人。我花了很多时间，将近两年才开发出一个可以上市发售的产品，配方在这六年间也不断调整，以迎合目前的最新趋势。」此一心血结晶便是质地柔软的波维蓝乳酪－外皮可食用，口感绵密丰富，时间放久一点则会变得松软，相当好吃。访谈结束两天后，波维乳酪在贝克维尔展传出多项捷报－拿下特级冠军、最佳蓝乳酪以及查茨沃斯精选奖，同时备受评审德文郡公爵夫人 Amanda Carmen Cavendish 青睐，选为心目中「最爱招待客人的乳酪第一名」－其受欢迎程度可见一斑。

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照料从心出发

Attention and Care Senior writer Mamie Chen and photographer David Hartung visit three British farms whose concern for animal welfare also means better quality meats.

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MEAT

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MEAT

Sows have the run of a generously sized, grass-covered pen, but insulated farrowing arcs naturally entice them to spend more time inside nursing their piglets. 母猪的猪舍围栏内有足够的空间并以稻草覆盖，弧形外层使猪舍自成一角，吸引母猪花更多时间待在里面，养育小猪。

A LITTER OF TEN PIGLETS scampers back and forth across a stretch of flowering phacelia that cuts lovely blue swaths through the farrowing site at Dingley Dell farm. While one of them pauses to sniff the blooms, his siblings romp through their straw-lined farrowing arc, out the front opening, and across the grass to their mother for a quick suckle before trotting back to meander through the blossoms once more. At five weeks old, the piglets are days away from weaning and graduating to the farm’s nursery site. But for now, they are free to come and go as they please. Instinctively, they never stray too far from their mother, who has been well-trained not to approach the thin electric wire that runs the perimeter of her pen. Easily fifteen by thirty feet or more, each of the pens seems unusually spacious. The generous allocation is given, not to meet a minimum government standard, but

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according to what Mark and Paul Hayward, owners and operators of Dingley Dell Pork, feel is right and proper. In fact, doing what feels right and proper seems to drive many of the decisions the Hayward brothers have made since taking over their father’s indoor pig farm. “I went to an outdoor unit in the Cotswolds in the early ’90s,” says Paul, “just to scout it out. It was one of the first ones that PIC, a breeding company, put pigs onto when the whole welfare thing was starting to happen. Legislation was encouraging farmers down the animal welfare route, and it just felt right to us.” Within a couple of years, they’d moved their whole operation outdoors so that their pigs could be bred and finished entirely in the open air. “My father probably thought we were idiots,” says Paul. That decision ran counter to century-old trends that had seen scientific discoveries and technological advancements move

Dingley Dell 农场猪舍外的钟穗花盛开，夹在多条美丽的蓝色小径间。一窝十只活蹦乱跳的小猪不停冲来跑去。一只小猪在花前停下脚步嗅个不停，他的兄弟姊妹们则是跑过拱型的稻草猪舍来到前面空地，穿过草丛找妈妈吸奶，但没一会又一哄而散，在花丛间穿梭来回。五周大的小猪过没几天就要断奶，从农场的育幼所正式毕业。但在那之前，想跑到哪里都行。小猪也不敢跑离妈妈太远，母猪也训练有素，不会触及环绕猪圈的细电网。农场里随便一个猪圈就有 15 尺乘 30 尺大，空间相当宽阔。此一大范围设计与政府设定的最低标准无关，而是因为「Dingley Dell Pork」的持有人及经营者 Mark 及 Paul Hayward 兄弟觉得这样对猪只才是最适切的安排。确实，自 Hayward 兄弟接手父亲的室内养猪场以来，一直做认为对的事及作适当的安排。Paul 表示：「90 年代初期我去过科茨沃尔德的一个户外牧场考察，那里算是动物福祉风潮刚开始发展时，种猪改良公司 (PIC) 最早用来放养猪只的农场之一。当时的法律还鼓励猪农往兼顾动物福祉的作法靠拢，与我们的理念不谋而合。」短短两年的时间，兄弟俩把整个室内场转到户外营运，猪只的繁殖到成长，至准备屠宰，通通都在户外环境之下进行。 Paul 回想表示：「父亲大概觉得我们疯了吧。」兄弟俩的决定与当时已发展上百年的作法背道而驰，科学的革新及技术的进展让繁殖场更加商业化，造就密集且工业化的动物繁殖文化。抗生素及疫苗的引进有效控制疾病的扩散，农家可以低风险坐拥更大的繁殖规模。维他命补给品的问世，更进一步促进特定动物室内繁殖的蓬勃发展。当一切都能被密切监控，农场环境也可准确掌握时，机械化系统让喂饲料就像按个钮一样，完全不费吹灰之力。然而，1980 年代所谓效率挂帅而大为风行的养殖法，代价却是动物的福祉。 Hayward 兄弟反其道而行，在改善动物福祉的前提下，再考虑如何能提升作业效率及生产力。拿 Dingley Dell 的猪舍来说，它的弧形外层有冬暖夏凉的效果，让母猪愿意待在里面。Paul 说明：「我们希望母猪在里面越久越好，才会有时间喂奶。」放在猪圈下方的生态板用来防止母猪在地上挖洞，防止

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“ Legislation was encouraging farmers down the animal welfare route, and it just felt right to us. 当时的法律还鼓励猪农往兼顾动物福祉的作法靠拢，与我们的理念不谋而合。” the field toward greater commercialization in intensive, industrialized animal agriculture. The introduction of antibiotics and vaccines had controlled the spread of diseases, allowing farmers to raise larger herds with less risk. Vitamin supplements made it possible to move certain breeds indoors where animals could be more closely monitored, the environment could be more precisely controlled, and mechanized systems could make feeding as simple as pushing a button. But many of the efficiencies that became especially prevalent in the 1980s had come at the cost of animal welfare. The Haywards, instead, focused on ways to increase efficiencies and productivity through improved animal welfare. Dingley Dell’s farrowing arcs, for example, are insulated to stay cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter than the outside air, which encourages the sows to stay inside. “We want mum to spend as much time in there as possible, because if she’s in there, she’s feeding her piglets,” says Paul. Eco-boards are placed at the bottom of the arcs to prevent the sows from digging holes in the ground that piglets might drop into. The boards are covered in a thick layer of straw so sows can still build their nests without risk to their young. “We have a lower piglet mortality rate, and, because no moisture can come up from the ground, we’re also looking at a savings of 75 percent in our straw.” The piglets are weaned at five weeks, compared to the industry norm of three to four for indoor-raised pigs, giving the sows the proper time to mend before going back into heat and breeding again. The extra time also yields bigger, stronger pigs for outdoor growing. When the Haywards noticed a consistent boost in production after moving their herd onto new land every two or three years, they explored how to get that same improvement without the large expense of an actual move. The solution was to put only half the land into active use with pigs and to seed the

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other half with grass and leave it for a short recovery period. They now flip the usage every six months or so, topping the growing grass before moving the pigs on and reseeding the worn land. “We tried that, and the piglets bloomed,” says Paul. “Pigs aren’t ruminants, but it must have some impact on lactation, and hence we get heavier weaners.” In addition, the grass roots provide a drainage channel for rainfall and the land sits drier. That means a cost savings in straw and makes conditions easier for the staff, who otherwise would be working knee deep in mud. The outdoor nursery site is a partially tented enclosure covered in a thick layer of straw over a grassy area. Tail biting, always a major concern for indoor pig units, is a non-issue here, because the animals can root around in the straw, dig up the grass, or play in the soil. “We think this is a much more natural lifestyle for the pigs,” says Paul. “They can exhibit their natural behavior in this system.” Before a new group of weaners is brought in, the tents are pushed back on the field to provide fresh grass while the previous lots are reseeded for future use. Earlier this year, the Haywards decided to grow phacelia instead of grass on the inactive land. The feathery blue flowers are widely acknowledged as one of the most attractive plants to bees. With over two and a half hectares of phacelia and more than fifteen kilometers of wildlife corridors established, their farmlands are now home to at least two hundred thousand bees, more than thirty types of butterflies, around fifty varieties of birds, and a whole range of deer and small wildlife. Although these environmental and wildlife conservation efforts may not provide an immediate benefit to their farm production, the Hayward brothers again did what they felt was the right thing to do. “It’s got to the point that if we couldn’t make our farm work while also doing our bit for the environment and wildlife,” says Paul, “then we wouldn’t do it at all.”

小猪意外跌落。板子以厚厚的稻草覆盖，母猪能于其上筑自己的窝，同时又不会伤到小猪。「这里小猪死亡率很低，而因为地面不会有水气渗出，我们能节约 75% 的稻草用量。」户外繁殖的小猪一般三到四周断奶，而 Dingley Dell 的小猪需要五周的时间，这样母猪再次发情繁殖前多了些时间休养。多出来的时间，使小猪长得更大、更强壮才到户外放养。兄弟俩另外也观察到一个现象：每隔两到三年将猪群搬到新地方，这

样有助生产力稳定增加，因此他们便开始思考如何达到同样的效果，又不用花大钱让猪只搬家。解决之道便是一半土地给猪只使用，另一半则用来种草，让土地有短暂修生养息的时间。土地目前每六个月轮流使用一次，草地经过修剪后才放猪群进去，同时另一半荒地则重新播种。 Paul 表示这作法成效极佳：「小猪数量大幅上升，猪虽然不是反刍动物，但此法确实能影响哺乳期，使断奶后的小猪又大又重。」除此之外，植物的根可以作为降雨后的排水系统，土地也较为干爽。这样稻

草的成本可以降低，对于原本需要深陷泥堆的员工来说，作业环境也变得简单许多。户外育幼所位于草地上，部份区块覆以帐棚，上面堆着一层厚厚的稻草。小猪互咬尾巴这个室内繁殖场常见的现象在此完全不成问题，小猪可以钻进稻草堆中，挖掘草地或在泥里玩。Paul 指出：「对猪只来说是较为自然的生活方式，各种与生俱来的行为在此作业模式下可姿意展现。」换新一批断奶小猪之前，帐棚会拆开放到地上以便有新鲜牧草可以供应，而前几批的繁殖地则重新播种，以供未来所需。

今年稍早，兄弟俩决定不在轮休地段养草，改种钟穗花。羽毛般的蓝色花朵众所皆知对于蜜蜂来说有极大的吸引力。目前钟穗花于 2.5 公顷的广大农地盛开，他们更建立了超过 15 公里的野生动物廊道，内有至少 20 万只蜜蜂、30 多种蝴蝶、50 多种鸟类、各式品种的鹿及小规模的野外生态。倾注于环境及生态保育的心力可能不会立刻在农场生产力上见到成效，但兄弟俩仍一本初衷，只做自己认为对的事。 Paul 强调：「农场作业如果无法同时兼顾环境及野生保育，我们宁可不做。」 britain's bounty

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JUST SIX MILES AWAY at Yarn Hill Farm, the Haywards’ cousin Richard Mann and his wife Natasha have a slightly different story to tell with their Lincoln Red cattle, a rare native breed dating back to the Viking invasions of Britain. What started out for Natasha as a friendly favor quickly turned into a hobby and has long since escalated into a true passion. “A friend of ours had five Lincoln Reds,” she recalls, “and he asked if he could pop them down on our marshes. I said yes. Then he got busy and asked if I could look after them, and I said yes. And then he asked if I would like to buy them, and I said yes!” The Manns are now one of the world’s largest breeders of Lincoln Reds, with more than two hundred fifty cattle in their Yarn Hill herd, including five bulls and a hundred and ten breeding stock. Three years ago, Natasha began showing some of her bulls and heifers at agricultural shows, and she’s been sweeping in the titles ever since. Countless ribbons, all from this year alone, line the ceiling around their kitchen. “We’ve had a good season,” she modestly admits. The awards do much for Yarn Hill’s standing within the Lincoln Red Cattle Society and command higher prices for the progeny of the award-winning bloodlines. But the Manns are particularly gratified by what the interbreed champion titles indicate about Lincoln Red as a breed. Quite prolific until the 1970s, Lincoln Reds fell out of fashion in favor of Continental breeds like the Charolais and Limousin that grow more quickly to heavier weights and do better on intensive finishing systems. One particular segment of “original population” nativebred Lincoln Reds declined enough in numbers to warrant monitoring by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. But interest in the breed has rekindled. “Now you read articles that say grass-fed beef is more nutritious or that native breeds are better for you,” Richard

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离在六英里处以外的 Yarn Hill 农场， Hayward 兄弟的表兄弟 Richard Mann 及妻子 Natasha 的故事则稍有不同，两人育养的是最早可追溯至维京人入侵英国时期、历史悠久的稀有本地品种－林肯红牛。对于 Natasha 来说，培育林肯红牛要从一个出于善意的举动说起，后来变成兴趣，最终成为他们的热情所在。她回想当时说：「有个朋友正巧养了五头林肯红牛，问说能否借我们的湿地放一下，我说好。接着他工作太忙，问我能否帮忙照顾，我就答应了！」夫妻俩目前是全球最大的林肯红牛繁殖户之 Yarn Hill 农场这边就有超过 250 头牛，一，包括五只公牛及 110 只育种牛只。 Natasha 从三年前带着几只公牛及小母牛参加农业展览开始，便成为各大奖项头衔的常胜军，光是今年就有多到数不完的授奖带，能够绕成一圈挂在厨房天花板上，她表示：「今年表现还不错。」如此彪炳的战绩也让 Yarn Hill 在「林肯红牛协会」中备受瞩目，并为此一屡获大奖的牛种后代争取了更高的奖金。 Mann 夫妻对于得到混种种牛冠军的头衔特别心存感激，认为该头衔对于林肯红牛作为特定的牛种为一大肯定。大量繁殖的林肯红牛到 1970 年代开始退烧，被夏洛莱牛或利木赞牛取代，该等欧陆牛种成长速度快、体重较重，在激烈竞争的肉牛体系中表现较佳。其中一种特定原生林肯红牛的「原始数量」甚至一度下滑到受「珍稀动物保护机构」严密保护监控的地步。近年，大家又重新燃起对于林肯红牛的兴趣。Richard 观察到养牛业有往草饲发展的趋势，他说：「很多文章都说草饲牛比较营养，或当地牛种对健康有益。林肯红牛恰恰可以改善饲草的质量，让草变得更好。」 Yarn Hill 牛群一年 12 个月均在户外放养，以 Hill Farm Iken 老水草地的天然牧草为主食。 Mann 夫妻也种一些大麦，在牛只长至肉牛阶段后，在必要时替补牛只草料的不足。但一切其实相当随性，没有什么严格的规定可循。 Richard 说明：「天气偏干，草长得慢的话，就混多一点大麦；常下雨时，草长的很茂盛的话，就多吃草少吃大麦。」当地原生种的林肯红牛相当适合户

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“That’s what it’s all about. It’s about low stress and a lack of adrenaline. It’s about the freedom. And we think you can taste it in the meat. 牛只没有压力或遇上需要分泌肾上腺素的紧急情况 , 因为它们有完全的自由。至于成效如何 , 相信在品尝牛肉时可以领会得到。”

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says of recent cattle-farming trends toward forage-based diets. “Lincoln Reds do much better off grass. They convert it better.” The Yarn Hill herd stays outdoors twelve months of the year, grazing mainly on the natural grasses that grow on the old water meadows at Hill Farm Iken. The Manns also grow a bit of barley to supplement the cattle’s diet if necessary, particularly when they are finishing, although the regimen is entirely

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ad lib. “If the weather goes dry and the grass slows down,” explains Richard, “then they’ll eat a little more barley. But when it rains and the grass is lush, they’ll eat more grass and less barley.” As a native breed, Lincoln Reds thrive outdoors, simply growing a thicker coat in the winter, and the Manns are fortunate to have a farm with light soil that doesn’t get too wet and muddy. They believe, however,

that it’s important to let the cows come in when necessary, whether for calving or when there’s an uncommonly wet, driving wind. “We’re firm believers in giving the animals the freedom of choice,” says Richard. “If they want to come in, they can. If they’re happy to be outside, fine.” Other than those Natasha takes to agricultural shows, the Yarn Hill cattle spend their entire lives in the quiet tranquility

of Hill Farm Iken. “I think consumers are becoming more discerning and happier to pay a higher price for a better quality of meat,” says Richard. “They’re looking for provenance. Our cattle are born here and raised here, and they only go on one journey when they leave the farm. That’s what it’s all about, low stress and a lack of adrenaline – it’s about the freedom. And we think you can taste it in the meat.”

外放养，到了冬天它会长出厚毛皮御寒。 Mann 夫妻运气也很好，他们所拥的农地土质轻，不致太湿或变成泥泞，但他们也认为，像生产或天气过湿、风势太大等情况下，适时让牛只进入室内相当重要。 Richard 和 Natasha 相信牛只应有选择的自由：「想要的话随时可以进来，乐得待在外面也无妨。」除了跟着 Natasha 参加农业展之外， Yarn Hill 的牛只终其一生几乎都在静谧

的 Hill Farm Iken 乡间悠闲度过。Richard 表示：「消费者标准越来越高，也乐意花多一点钱买品质好的肉品。他们想找本地原产的肉品，而我们的牛土生土长，出了农场之后只需经历一段旅程就能到流通市场。这就是关键所在，牛只没有压力或遇上需要分泌肾上腺素的紧急情况，因为它们有完全的自由。至于成效如何，相信在品尝牛肉时可以领会得到。」 britain's bounty

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TWO HUNDRED MILES AWAY in Wiltshire, Jane Kallaway of Langley Chase Organic Farm like-mindedly shares the philosophy of the Haywards and Manns regarding animal welfare, provenance, and traceability. “Away, Flute, away!” she commands. “Bring them back up!” Jane’s ten-year-old smooth-coated border collie springs into action, eagerly racing across the field to circle the flock of young females, known as ewe hoggets, and herd them from behind. Jane seems to derive as much delight as her dog does from roaming over her one-hundred-fifty-acre farm to check on the sheep, even though she may have found her calling a little later in life than did Flute. It began with an awakening. “Nobody seems to remember BSE now,” she says of bovine spongiform encephalopathy, the cattle disease that raised the specter of species-jumping in the late ’80s and served as catalyst for her foray into animal husbandry. “It was because of what they ate. Then I started looking into antibiotics and feed and realized that the meat I was giving my family was not that great.” Her property happens to include acres of old wildflower meadows that hadn’t been plowed or fertilized for ages and were filled with a diversity of wild grasses and herbs. After careful research, including twenty courses in agriculture and butchery, she selected the Manx Loaghtan sheep, a slow-maturing native breed that is naturally low in cholesterol and

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下一站来到 200 英里远的 Wiltshire，Langley Chase 有机农场的 Jane Kallaway 也与 Hayward 兄弟及 Mann 夫妻志同道合，将动物福祉、食品来源及追溯当成经营农场的优先考量。只见 Jane 一声令下：「Flute，走！把它们赶回来！」十岁大的边境牧羊犬一身柔顺毛发飞扬，一个指令一个动作，在农场绕着一群一岁的小母羊奔驰起来，行走间一直守在羊群后方。牧羊犬不断跑来跑去，巡视主人 150 英亩的农场和确认羊群的状况，看来不亦乐乎，Jane 好像也感染了一样的情绪，虽然单以找到终身志业来说，比起 Flute 她的起步算晚得多。 Jane 表示一切都出于狂牛症带来的体悟，她说：「现在好像没人记得狂牛症了。」学名牛海绵状脑病的狂牛症，在 80 年代末期引起跨物种传染的恐慌，也成为让她一脚踏进畜牧业的原因。「牛只因为吃进肚子的东西染病，所以我开始研究抗生素及饲料，那时才想到，原来一直给家人吃的肉，品质根本没那么好。」 Jane 的农场有数英亩经年没有耕种或施肥过的草地，开满野花、野草及各式植物，生态相当多元。Jane 在修了 20 堂农业及屠宰课程，历经一番研究后终于选定成长期较长、天生胆固醇及饱和脂肪较低的曼岛绵羊来饲养。她遵行动物福祉的高标准，让羊只在有机牧场长大，为市场提供兼顾健康、美味且有生产追溯的肉品。 Jane 强调：「羊只就该放养在开阔的牧场，过羊该过的生活。历史悠久的牧草地与古老的羊种正好成为绝配。」最早的曼岛绵羊可溯回维京人入侵英国的时期，其样貌相当霸气，四支偌大的犄角更是引人注目。1950 年代，曼岛绵羊数量急遽减少，目前是被「珍稀动物保护机构」列入「高风险」的物种。

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“ It’s an expensive, labor-intensive way of doing things, with a lot of care and attention. But then you have a product that is really worth having. 我们的作法虽花费金钱和劳力，还要耗费许多心力照顾，但最后的成果会让人感到一切都值得。”

saturated fat. Her aim was to turn out a traceable product with healthy qualities and great flavor, one reared on organic pastureland and with high standards of animal welfare. “I like the idea of letting the sheep live a life in the fields, doing what it is that sheep do,” says Jane. “And I think it’s a very good marriage between ancient pasture and ancient breed.” Predating the Viking invasions of Britain, the Manx Loaghtan breed produces majestic-looking animals, particularly the striking four-horned rams. By the 1950s, though, its numbers had declined sharply, and it is now classified “at risk” by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. Jane’s sheep, although she doesn’t enter them in agricultural shows, are pedigreed to breed standards. Compared to commercial strains that were “improved” to achieve a fast turnover from birth to plate, Jane’s primitive sheep are allowed to graze naturally on the organic fields at Langley Chase Farm, where they achieve their finishing weight at a slower pace. “Conventional mutton is sold at two years,” she says, “but I feel ours needs to be older. Otherwise, the sheep haven’t eaten enough or lived long enough to develop a beautiful flavor. It’s an expensive, labor-intensive way of doing things, with a lot of care and attention. But then you have a product that is really worth having.”

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The lambs, ewe hoggets, ram hoggets, and main breeding flock are all kept on separate pastures according to their needs. Lambs, in particular, must have clean grazing fields from which the hay has been removed to allow sunlight to penetrate the roots and naturally kill off any parasites. She also controls thistle growth organically through regular topping of the fields. Within their allocated fields, the sheep can follow their own patterns, grazing in the lower meadow during the day and sleeping at the top of the hill at night. “I think that’s half the battle,” she says, “giving them good grazing and a tranquil, hassle-free life.” The other half, she says, is finding and working with an abattoir and a butcher that share her approach and philosophy, echoing the sentiments of the Haywards and the Manns toward the partners that all of them have in common, C&K Meats and Direct Meats. The animals are transported in small peer groups to minimize stress and prevent the release of lactic acid into the muscles, which can toughen the meat. “Out of respect to what we’ve produced, we want the best,” says Jane. “It all makes such a difference. There’s no point in rearing something throughout its life with a huge amount of attention and care and then dropping everything at the last stage.”

她的羊虽然不曾参加农展，但绝对符合各种繁殖标准，血统相当纯正。商业育种多经过改良，以增快羊只从出生到餐桌的周期，但 Langley Chase 农场的羊只却是在有机牧地上吃草、好整以暇，故长成至肉羊需时较长。她说明：「一般肉羊长到两岁就会卖掉，但我们的羊就没那么快，不然它们根本就不够时间好好吃个够或发展到肉质鲜美的阶段。我们的作法虽花费金钱和劳力，还要耗费许多心力照顾，但最后的成果会让人感到一切都值得。」依据所需，羔羊、一岁小母羊或公羊，以及主羊群均于不同牧地放养。羔羊需要特别干净的牧草地，因此特别将地上的干草移开，以便阳光直射，透到根茎，以天然的方式消灭各式寄生虫。她也要求定期修剪牧地，以有机方式来控制蓟的生长。羊只在个别牧地中可以照自己的步调来走：白天到低草地吃草，晚上回小丘顶端睡觉。她解释：「在育羊事业中，让它们吃得好，享受安静和安稳的生活，已是成功的一半。」另一半则是找到和她有相同作法及理念的屠宰场及屠夫一起合作，正巧她与 Hayward 兄弟及 Mann 夫妻的想法遥相呼应，脱颖而出的正是三家农场的共同合作对象 C&K Meats 及 Direct Meats 两家处理场。准备屠宰的动物以小批运送，以此降低紧张感，避免肌肉中产生乳酸让肉质变硬。「在尊重产品之余，我们也想做到最好。」Jane 自豪表示：「花了那么多心力从小养到大，如到了最后一关才松懈或放低标准，也未免太说不过去。」

MEAT

TK | BRITAIN'S BOUNTY

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

捕蟹之战

Crab Catch IT’S BEEN TWO DAYS since John Hughes has been able to take his boat, Branscombe Pearl, out into the bay and pull his pots. A storm has blown into South Devon, but he isn’t complaining. “The harder the wind blows,” he explains, “the more it stirs up the bottom and the more crabs are in the pots.” During the previous week’s sun-filled days, in fact, he’d been catching fewer and fewer crabs as the mild conditions continued on. A break in the weather would do everyone some good. Ironies like that seem to abound in the fishing industry. As a shellfishing veteran, Hughes could reasonably be considered one of the old guard of local crabbers. He first started commercial operations in 1965, just in time to enjoy the waning heyday of local crabbing, when Lyme Bay was filled with what South Devon was famous for, the large brown species Cancer pagurus, with its delicately sweet white claw meat, flavorsome brown body meat, and, in the hens, delectably rich coral. “In years gone by, I’ve got them at eight

TK | britain's bounty

John Hughes 驾驶自家小船「Branscombe Pearl 珍珠号」直驱海湾，奋力拉起捕蟹笼已经两天时间，暴风雨吹进南德文郡，但他却无任何怨言，John 解释：「风势越强，越能让浪从海底打起，这样就能够让更多螃蟹进入捕蟹笼里。」上周阳光普照，天气温和，捕到的螃蟹却屈指可数，一天比一天少。如此说来，天气骤变反而对大家都好。这讽刺现象在捕蟹业正不断重复上演。身为捕蟹业的老手，说 John 是地方捕蟹人的资深守卫者也不为过。他早在 1965 年便开始商业营运，地方捕蟹业日渐衰落，他赶上了最后的黄金时期，当时莱姆湾到处都是南德文郡的知名产物－大型棕色蟹种黄道蟹 (Cancer pagurus)，白色螯肉香甜细腻，棕色蟹身肉质鲜美，以及母蟹才有的美味蟹黄。 John 回想过往荣景表示：「我以往可以抓到八磅的螃蟹。」但说到老前辈们的丰功伟业，他打开双手与肩同宽，边比边说：「他们抓到的螃蟹有这么大！」那时螃蟹及龙虾数量之多，光 John 一个人一天就能坐收 120 个捕蟹笼。「但那种日子早已不复见。」这些年下来，科技日新月异，发展出结构更强的钢体捕蟹笼、合成纤维绳，以

DAVID HARTUNG

A South Devon shellfisher is on a mission to sustainably harvest the source of a vanishing way of life.

SEAFOOD

britain's bounty

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TK | britain's bounty

they stopped them scalloping here and they went scalloping in another area, it brought all those potters up here! You see? There’s not enough crabs here for them now, so they’ve gone somewhere else.” The problem of destructive fishing had morphed into a problem of unsustainable fishing. But now Hughes represents the vanguard of those who have been mobilizing efforts toward responsible and sustainable fishing practices that may help to restore the fisheries to what they once were. In 2015, he became one of the first fishermen in the UK to be awarded the updated Responsible Fishing Scheme certification, which demonstrates commitment to high standards with respect to regulations and voluntary agreements, food hygiene and traceability procedures, care for the environment, and crew safety and welfare. Hughes is a also member of the Lyme Bay Fisheries and Conservation Reserve, a collaboration between fishermen, conservationists, scientists, and regulators. It

IMAGE SUPPLIED BY SEAFISH (2)

pounds, and the old boys,” says Hughes, spreading his hands shoulder-width apart, “they were catching crabs like this!” The crab and lobster population was such that Hughes alone was pulling a hundred and twenty pots a day. “But them days are gone.” Over the years, improvements in technology, including stronger steel-framed pots and synthetic ropes, along with the arrival of marine electronics that read the seabed and pinpoint optimal potting locations, have ironically made fishing far too efficient. The risk of overfishing was further heightened by a 2008 decision to close sixty square miles of Lyme Bay to scallop dredging. Intended to allow seabeds to heal from damage sustained by towed fishing gear, it had the unfortunate side effect of drawing nearly twice as many staticgear fishers to the area, which negatively affected seabed biodiversity and significantly reduced the targeted crab and lobster population. “When there used to be scallop dredging here,” explains Hughes, “there was only, say, twenty potters. But because

addresses the challenges posed by a multiuse marine protected area and identifies ecosystem-based management strategies that balance commercial fishing needs with the imperative to protect fragile environments. Members abide by a voluntary code of conduct that limits the total number of pots pulled to 250, with a maximum of ten per string, and requires the use of escape hatches in certain types of pots. In fact, Hughes’s current practice of pulling sixty pots on strings of three, every other day from March to October, already fell within the stipulated guidelines. “You’ve only got little areas as big as my shed out there with muddy ledges that the crabs can get in under,” he explains. “And then you’ve got great areas of all sandy stuff where there’s nothing. We still have some rogue boats coming down from Exmouth shooting forty pots here and forty pots there, but that doesn’t work so well here. You’ve got to know where your pockets are.” Shellfishers also have to know the minimum landing size set by the relevant regional IFCA, or inshore fisheries conservation authority. Lyme Bay falls under the oversight of two IFCAs: on the west side, Devon and Severn IFCA recently increased the minimum catch size to 150 mm across the carapace for hen crabs and 160 mm for cocks, while on the east side, Southern IFCA permits the landing of both hens and cocks at 140 mm. “So, over the border, they could fill up the pots with the small crabs,” says a frustrated Hughes. “It’s just ludicrous.” There’s a final irony. At seventy-three years of age and thinking of retirement, Hughes continues his fight to protect a local product and industry for the future. But, even as world demand for brown crabs surges, a younger generation of crabbers simply hasn’t come through. “The kids don’t want to do it anymore, so it’s just us old ones left. We do it because it’s in our blood and we enjoy going out there on a nice day. That’s all I can tell you.”

SEAFOOD

Skipper John Hughes displays a recent catch of South Devon brown crab. 捕蟹船船长 John Hughes 展示他刚捕到的南德文郡黄道蟹。

及可以判读海床资料、精确指出最适合放置捕蟹笼地点的海洋电子系统，结果讽刺的是捕鱼变得太有效率了。过度捕捞造成的风险之高，由 2008 年莱姆湾宣布关闭 60 平方英哩区域禁止采捞扇贝可见一斑。原本是要让遭拖网船破坏的海床能休息平复，却带来了副作用－引进两倍多的渔夫，

让他们拿着定置渔具进驻，这大大冲击海床生物多样性，使得螃蟹及龙虾数量大幅减少。 John 指出：「以前只有捕捞扇贝作业时，大概只有 20 个捕捞笼，后来禁止补贝后他们转往他处，反而吸引了一大堆捕蟹笼！是吧？现在这里没什么螃蟹可捕，他们就又跑到其他地方去了。」

此一具毁灭性的捕捞问题逐渐演变成更大的课题－无法永续地捕捞作业。 John 现在是责任及永续渔业地倡议人士代表人之一，希望让地方渔业回复到过往的面貌。2015 年他成为英国首位获得新制责任捕捞计画认证的渔夫，承诺以高标准遵行并维护法规、自愿协议、食品卫生、追踪程序、环境保护及船员安全和福祉等事项。 John 也是莱姆湾渔业及保育组织 (Lyme Bay Fisheries and Conservation Reserve) 的一员，成员包括渔夫、环境保育人士、科学家及主管机关代表，希望积极应对在多元使用目的下海洋保育区面临的各种挑战，找出以生态体系为本的管理策略，如此才能达到商业捕捞需求及强制保护脆弱海洋环境之间的平衡。成员遵循自愿性行事守则，规定捞起的捕蟹笼总数不得超过 250 笼，每次最多只能放 10 条线，特定捕蟹笼型还须强制附上逃脱闸门。事实上，John 目前的作法，即三月到十月间每隔一天拉三条绳、上面绑 60 个捕蟹笼已然符合前述规定。他说：「目前地方有限，最多就像我那边的棚子一样，至少泥巴礁岩下面螃蟹还可以躲。沙地幅员广大，但一只螃蟹也没有。现在不时还有埃克斯茅斯来的流氓船耍打跑战术，这边放 40 笼，那边也丢个 40 笼，但在这里已经起不了什么效果，一定要知道自己的立基点在哪才行。」捕蟹人也须清楚了解近岸渔业保育机关 (IFCA) 所设的最小土地范围。莱姆湾东西横跨区域辽阔，归两个 IFCA 管辖：西边主管机关－德文郡及塞文 IFCA，最近那里甲壳类可捕最小尺寸标准上调，母蟹 15 厘米，公蟹 16 厘米；东边归南部 IFCA 所管，该处 14 厘米以上的公蟹母蟹均可捕捞。「所以跨个界就可以抓到满笼的小蟹，」John 的话听来泄气，「真的很可笑。」最后还有个极度讽刺之处不能不提。 73 岁的 John 年事已高，在考虑退休，却仍为了未来奋战不懈，保护地方蟹种及产业。即便全球对于黄道蟹的需求不断增加，新一代捕蟹人却始终没能补上。「年轻人不想再捕蟹了，只剩下老人还在苦撑。支持我们做下去的是血液中的渔夫魂，想到好天气能出海捕蟹就让我们兴奋不已，能说的大概就是这些了。」 britain's bounty

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Homewood ricotta gnudi are rolled in semolina and dried to form a thin crust, then delicately poached. They are served with nasturtium-stalk-and-pea-shoot pesto, garden-fresh peas, carrots, radishes, and nasturtium leaves. 里科塔乳酪面疙瘩覆上一层粗粒小麥粉，经天然风乾形成透薄的外皮，再由主厨细心水煮。这道菜配搭以金莲花茎及碗豆苗制成的青酱、碗豆、胡萝卜、萝卜及金莲花叶上桌。

TASTING NOTES

落叶归根

Fiercely Local

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A young British chef cultivates his roots.

PONY & TRAP, by all sights, sounds, flavors, and textures, is the textbook definition of a great British gastropub. Siblings Joshua and Holly Eggleton, since acquiring the two-hundred-year-old pub they remember frequenting as children with their parents, have been mindful to retain much of the building’s original character throughout occasional renovations. Pub classics like ham and eggs with chips and the ploughman’s feature on the à la carte menu fit comfortably alongside the fancier likes of a ricotta gnudi starter with nasturtium pesto and a forty-day-aged sirloin. In recent years, the restaurant has become something of a destination that attracts food lovers from outside the area, yet it is equally welcoming to the farmer from up the road who regularly stops by, still in his wellies, for a cider. Truth be told, chef-owner Josh Eggleton isn’t much bothered with labels, and he shrugs at what he considers a rather generic term anyway. This comes as no surprise from the same gentleman who nonchalantly mentions, “One day, we turned around and won a Michelin star for our food.” Notwithstanding the coveted award, received first in 2011 and in every year since, and despite the meticulous attention to detail and complexity of his dishes, Eggleton still describes his cooking as “simple homemade food.” This refreshingly down-to-earth attitude emanates from the top down and is echoed across the restaurant, from the inviting ambiance of its low, wood-beamed ceilings to the cheery, knowledgeable staff. Even the multicourse tasting menus are designed to be

Chef Patron Josh Eggleton

Pony & Trap，不论在视觉、听觉、口味还是质感上，都堪称是英式酒馆餐厅最佳典范。Eggleton 兄妹档 Joshua 和 Holly，自从买下拥有两百年历史、童年时与父母一起流连忘返的酒吧后，便费尽心思不时翻修以保存原建筑的传统特色。酒吧的经典菜式不外乎火腿、蛋和薯条及农夫精选，完美搭配前菜里科塔乳酪面疙瘩配金莲花青酱和 40 天熟成的

西冷牛扒。近几年，餐厅摇身成为吸引外地美食家的殿堂，同时也深受附近田野农夫欢迎，穿着防水靴就直接来喝杯苹果酒稍作休息。事实证明，餐厅主厨兼经营人 Josh 并不十分在意别人为他贴的标签，他不以为意地耸耸肩，认为这些是稀松平常的事。这些话从一位一切都泰然处之的主厨口中说出来，不会让人感到意外。「我 britain's bounty

TK |

Siblings Josh and Holly Eggleton, managing the kitchen and front of house, respectively, transformed a formerly rundown pub into a Michelin-starred country pub restaurant within five years of acquiring it.

approachable. A miniature Yorkshire pudding snack is topped with steak tartare and jus and spiked with a bit of horseradish crème fraîche and a nasturtium leaf for a peppery kick. “So the first morsel you have,” Eggleton says, “is a very British, very roast-beef-esque, perfect little bite.” Pony & Trap, located in a hamlet on the outskirts of Chew Magna, is slightly removed from serving as the social center of village life that many country pubs do. But Eggleton believes they still have a role to play within the local community, one of which includes exploring the products available from local farmers and producers. To be sure, the quality of the ingredients is paramount. “But I think once you scratch the surface on anything, you start to find amazing stuff,” he says. “It’s about drilling down as much as possible and learning where your produce comes from.” Just that morning, he visited their milk supplier and learned of a new organic range. Earlier in the week, he’d discovered

TK | britain's bounty

a producer just in the next valley growing beautiful greens. “She has pennyworts and mustard frills, just amazing salad leaves,” he raves. “I’m like, why the hell didn’t I know about this earlier?” Already, his mind is whirring away at the possibilities: They’ll serve a spring salad tossed with a homemade salad cream made with the organic dairy from Chew Valley and seasoned with a cider vinegar from Somerset. He’ll add croutons from the twenty-four-hour proof sourdough they bake on the premises. “Fiercely local,” he promises. Currently obsessing over food waste, Eggleton has been experimenting with whey, a by-product from cheese production. While large-scale producers have found commercial demand for industrial whey protein, farmhouse cheesemakers often have difficulty finding use for theirs, particularly if it is salted. Eggleton approached the cheese supplier providing his ricotta, agreed to take some of its whey, and tried reducing it and using it for brining. Most

recently, for an additional snack on their tasting menu, they’ve made a whey-seaweed sauce in which they gently poach a Porthilly oyster. Eggleton has begun bringing his field-tofork ethos even closer to home by growing thirty different types of fruit trees and a variety of herbs and vegetables in Pony & Trap’s garden. They’ve bought a two-and-ahalf-acre field next door on which they plan to grow a micro farm and even raise some Dexter cows. They’ve invested in a brewery and plan to use the by-product of wet brewers’ grains as supplemental feed for the cows. There are also plans to build a development kitchen above Pony & Trap where they can explore and test new concepts. “Ideas pour out of my head all the time,” he says. “We’ve been constantly evolving the pub and making it better – the food, the interior, the garden, everything. And we’ve got a long way to go and a lot more to do.” For Eggleton and for Pony & Trap, change, it seems, is the true constant.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Eggleton兄妹档 Joshua 和 Holly 分別掌管餐厅的厨房及用餐区，在五年内把曾经倒闭的小酒馆打造成获得米其林星级殊荣的酒馆餐厅。

TASTING NOTES

Porthilly oyster poached in a whey emulsion with crispy sea lettuce, dill oil, and fresh dill 水煮Porthilly牡蛎配乳清、酥脆海莴苣、莳萝油及新鲜莳萝

BRITAIN'S BOUNTY | TK |

Mini Yorkshire pudding stuffed with steak tartare, jus, and horseradish crème fraîche and garnished with a nasturtium leaf 迷你约克夏布丁内有牛肉鞑靼、肉汁及辣根酸奶油，并加上一片金莲花叶作装饰

们的料理也获得了米其林一星的殊荣。」虽然他从 2011 年开始每年都获得这个令人垂涎的奖项，但对于他定位为「简单家常菜」的料理，他总是兢兢业业、注重细节。餐厅里从上而下贯彻简朴的经营态度：从木头横梁低垂的天花板到愉悦伶俐的专业员工，即使是套餐的菜单也设计得平易近人。小巧可爱的约克夏布丁点心上，淋上牛肉鞑靼和肉汁，最后加上辣根酸奶油和金莲花叶以增添胡椒香。Josh 说：「只要尝了第一口，就会发现它非常具有英国味，有点像烤牛肉，是绝佳的小点心。」 Pony & Trap 坐落在 Chew Magna 外围的小村庄，和地方社交中心的乡村酒吧相比较为偏远，但 Josh 深信还是能在这个村子里找到自己的立足点，包括从在地农夫和供应商手中发掘当地产品，而品质绝对是优先考量。他说：「当你从一件事情的表面开始探索，就会开始看到它惊人的内涵。锲而不舍地深入源头，只想一探产品的究竟。」当天清晨，他拜访餐厅的牛奶供应商，得到关于有机牧场的新知识。这个星期稍早，他发现隔壁村的一位小农种出许多鲜美的作物。他激动地说：「她有积雪草和芥菜，是沙拉中特别的食材。为什么我到现在才发现这些食材？」顿时，创新菜式已在脑中翻转：把它们用作春天菜单的沙

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拉，淋上使用 Chew Valley 的有机乳品制作的手工沙拉酱，并用来自萨默塞特郡的苹果醋调味，最后撒上 24 小时发酵面团制成的烤面包丁。他保证：「全部食材均是产地直送。」最近引发热烈讨论的食物浪费，Josh 早已用乳酪的副产品乳清做过实验。当大规模的生产厂商意识到工业用乳清蛋白的商机，农场的乳酪农就会面临销售困难，特别是盐味乳酪。Josh 向这些乳酪供应商购买里科塔乳酪，并同意买下一部分乳清，试着减量使用并用作盐渍。他们最近更制作了乳清海苔酱搭配水煮 Porthilly 牡蛎，作为菜单上的特制小吃。 Josh 开始实践「从农场到餐桌」的理念，甚至还在 Pony & Trap 的花园种下 30 种不同的果树、香草和蔬菜。他们在邻近地区买下两英亩半的土地，计划改造成小农地并饲养德克斯特牛，同时还投资一家酿酒厂，打算使用湿酿酒槽的副产品作为牛的补充饲料。他们也计画于餐厅楼上建造研发厨房，探索并实验新概念。他说：「点子总是从我的脑子里倾泄而出，我们持续推展酒吧事务，包括料理、装潢，甚至花园的任何事，希望酒吧能尽善尽美。我们还有很长的路要走，也还有很多事想要完成。」对 Josh 和 Pony & Trap 来说，改变才是不变的坚持。

Garden fresh alpine strawberries and sherry cream served atop a sherry-soaked baba with Campari-and-strawberry jelly and garnished with strawberry-flecked meringue and fresh mint 经雪利酒浸泡的水果糕点和金巴利酒草莓果冻上加有新鲜高山草莓及雪利酒奶油，再装点以草莓斑点蛋白糖霜和薄荷 britain's bounty

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天际乐园

Celestial Playground “LONDON,” observes Florian Favario, exec-

utive chef of Celèste at The Lanesborough, “is influenced by so many types of restaurants and offerings. I believe people are more open in terms of flavor. And because there are fewer expectations, we don’t have to limit ourselves in the kitchen, which gives us the opportunity to play with French-style cuisine, be more creative, and introduce different flavors.” Guests at Celèste were treated to a memorable demonstration of Favario’s unbounded style in June at a Five Michelin Star Dinner presided over by both him and Éric Fréchon, the restaurant’s renowned chef patron. The occasion celebrated Fréchon’s triple constellation of Michelin-starred venues, comprised of his famous Épicure and 114 Faubourg at Le Bristol in Paris, and now Celèste in London. For Favario, who has been Fréchon’s protégé for five years and was head chef at Épicure, the dinner also served as recognition of his remarkable success at Celèste. Since taking over, he has not only run all food and beverage operations at The Lanesborough, he has prevailed in the challenge to win over London’s cosmopolitan tastes by introducing innovative dishes that feature the best of British ingredients prepared with all the artistry and precision of classic French techniques. “Le Bristol is a Parisian palace, and guests’ expectations at Épicure are to experience the very definite influence of French

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谈到伦敦，The Lanesborough 酒店知名餐厅 Celèste 行政主厨 Florian Favario 分享他的独到观察：「这个集结各式各样餐厅及美食荟萃的大都会对于新味道也抱持较为开放的态度，也因为客人对于味道不会有过多的期望，厨师在厨房不用绑手绑脚，可以放开来翻玩法式美食，更加天马行空，引进更多不同的口味。」 Florian 与名气响亮的大厨暨餐厅赞助人 Éric Fréchon 六月时共同在 Celèste 主持了一场米其林五星晚宴，一展无疆界的烹饪风味。这场晚宴就是为了慶祝 Éric 旗下的三大餐厅的卓越成就，包括最广为人知的 Épicure、巴黎 Le Bristol 酒店的 114 Faubourg 以及伦敦的 Celèste。这场晚宴就是为了这三间餐厅举办的，均闪耀米其林星星的光芒。 Florian 曾为 Éric 的左右手五年时间，期间担任 Épicure 主厨，此次晚宴也是对他带领 Celèste 缔造耀眼成绩的一大肯定。接手餐厅以来，他负责 The Lanesborough 所有餐饮营运，成功赢得伦敦饕客的心，满足他们五花八门的口味。他不断推出创新菜式，采用英国当地一流食材，揉合经典法式料理的艺术性及丝毫不马虎的精准技巧。他说道：「Le Bristol 是巴黎美食殿堂，造访 Épicure 的客人都希望一尝法式料理的精髓及更传统的口味。」来到 Celèste 则有所不同，Florian 从他在日本多年的工作经验，以及从踏遍世界各地的旅游经历中获取灵感，他也时常向来自欧洲、印度及尼泊尔不同国家文化背景的厨房伙伴挖掘新点子。他强调：「每个人都参与其中，乐于分享家乡料理或儿时回忆。有了想法之

Pineapple tomato gazpacho with tartare of green Zebra tomatoes and heritage tomatoes 鳯梨西红杮西班牙冻汤配绿斑马西红杮和祖传西红杮鞑靼

COURTESY OF CELÈSTE AT THE LANESBOROUGH

Mamie Chen discovers why a French chef, to charm London palates, throws out the rules.

TASTING NOTES

britain's bounty

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家庭乡村风羊排配栉瓜库斯库斯北非小米及碳烤红椒酱

cuisine, with more traditional flavors,” he says. At Celèste, on the other hand, Favario draws inspiration from his years working in Japan and his travels around the world. He also regularly solicits input from a kitchen staff representing a variety of European, Indian, and Nepalese backgrounds. “Everyone is very involved and happy to share something from their home cuisine or memories from their childhood,” says Favario. “And then we start to play around with it – I keep learning from them.” The current tasting menu features a home-style county lamb that is cooked in the traditional French way – grilled rack, confit shoulder, and pan-fried saddle – but paired with Tunisian-influenced textures and flavors of zucchini couscous and charcoal-fired red-pepper coulis, a milder French take on harissa. Favario has also observed that his clientele in London tend to be more healthconscious than the Parisians at Le Bristol, and he has accordingly adjusted his menu development to accommodate a greater number of vegetarian options. “I started to approach some of the vegetables the way I would work with meat or fish,” he says, going on to explain how he slow-roasts a whole celeriac in the oven for two hours and serves it with crushed black truffle and aged Comté. Another healthy dish, grilled avocado with spiced guacamole and marinated yelllowfin tuna, was originally developed for the dining room at Celèste but has since become a favorite on the all-day healthy-dining menu at the restaurant of The Lanesborough Club & Spa. Because Favario insists on identical exacting standards for ingredients, flavors,

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textures, and plating, he believes many of the Club & Spa’s dishes would equally complement the menu at Celèste. Favario has especially enjoyed cultivating relationships with small local suppliers. A fisherman from the south of England calls him early one morning to offer the ten mackerel he’s just caught. A gardener with Green Zebra tomatoes, a cultivar with a narrow window of ripeness, warns “you can go ahead with this, but you can only get it for ten days.” Based on that information, Favario creates an entirely new dish around the ephemeral prize, serving a small piece of halibut topped with Green Zebra tartare and finished with lemon thyme, Sicilian pistachios, and green olives. Recently passing the two-year milestone

In the preparation of this feature, TK’s editorial team received complimentary accommodations at The Lanesborough.

Regency-style décor is naturally illuminated during the day by a domed glass ceiling and spectacularly lit at night by a trio of grand chandeliers. 日光经餐厅的圆顶玻璃天花在摄政风格的装饰上镀上光晕，三盏宏伟的吊灯则在夜间把餐厅映照得特别华美。

COURTESY OF CELÈSTE AT THE LANESBOROUGH (3)

Grilled home-style county lamb chops with courgette couscous and charcoal-fired red pepper coulis

at Celèste, Favario is now eager to take a closer look at British culinary traditions. “I’m going to work with them in my kitchen,” he says, “and try to come up with some nice twists.” Already, he ponders the potential of a Paris-Brest flavored with sticky toffee pudding. The idea of an English-inspired French pastry at The Lanesborough’s quintessentially British afternoon tea seems perfectly apropos for a national landmark appointed with Regency furnishings and embellishments that proudly harbors a modern French restaurant. But would Fréchon approve of such an unconventional dessert? “Mr. Fréchon comes here every month, and we sample all the dishes together. I trust him very much in terms of taste and technique, and he really helps us achieve what we want here,” says Favario. “But the rule at Celèste is that there is no rule. We use any ingredient or flavor we want and there’s no limit to what we do – we treat our kitchen like a playground.”

TASTING NOTES

Chef Patron Éric Fréchon and Executive Chef Florian Favario 餐厅赞助人Éric Fréchon及行政主厨Florian Favario

后就开始玩不同的花样－我从他们身上不断学到新东西。」目前的主厨菜单包括以正统法式料理法烹调的家庭乡村风羊排，也就是烤羊架、

油封羊肩及香煎羊腰脊，搭配突尼西亚口感及味道的栉瓜库斯库斯北非小米，以及碳烤红椒酱，可说是哈里萨辣酱的法式改良版。

根据 Florian 的观察，伦敦的客人较巴黎 Le Bristol 的客人更具健康意识，他也因此调整菜式，纳入更多蔬食选项。他指出：「我开始以对待肉类或鱼的方式来处理蔬菜。」接着进一步说明每个步骤，包括如何把整个块根芹菜放进烤箱慢烤两小时，出炉后搭配黑松露片及陈年孔泰奶酪上桌。另一道健康料理是烤牛油果佐风味牛油果酱及腌黄鳍鲔鱼，这原本是专为 Celèste 研发的菜式，却因大受欢迎，也名列 The Lanesborough 会所及水疗中心餐厅健康菜单上的全日菜式之一。 Florian 以相同的严格标准把关会所及水疗中心餐厅的食材、味道、口感及摆盘，认为不少菜式可与 Celèste 的料理起互补之效。 Florian 乐于与地方供应商培养合作关系。例如，英格兰南部有渔夫会一早打电话叫他去拿刚捕获的十条青花鱼；或有种植成熟期极短的绿斑马蕃茄的小农会直言不讳忠告：「想用可以，但记得 10 天内要用完。」为了这短寿的美味食材，Florian 特别创造了全新菜式：大比目鱼切成小片，缀上绿斑马蕃茄鞑靼，最后放上柠檬百里香、西西里开心果及绿橄榄便大功告成。 Celèste 开业至今两年，是一大里程碑。主厨接着打算更进一步钻研英国料理传统，增加在厨房里应用的机会，创造更多令人惊喜的菜式。他已经在构思制作太妃糖布丁风味的巴黎布列斯特泡芙，届时在 The Lanesborough 酒店内的现代法国餐厅享用正宗英式下午茶时呈上这道英风法式糕点，与这座英国代表性地标内的英伦老牌 Regency 家饰及装饰品搭配一定再适合不过。但这道非传统甜点会否得到 Éric 首肯？ Florian 表示：「Éric 每个月都来，每道料理我们都一起试过。味道及烹调技巧方面我完全相信他的专业判断，在他的指点下，我们可以达到预设的目标。」接着他话锋一转强调：「但在 Celèste，没有规则可循才是唯一的指导方针，可以运用任何食材或味道，不设任何限制－厨房就像游乐园一样。」 TK 编辑团队特別鳴謝 The Lanesborough 酒店在我們采访过程中的热情款待与提供免费住宿。 britain's bounty

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COCKTAIL

隐身贵族

Untitled Royalty London’s reigning monarch of experimental mixology and the chef of his newest outpost talk to Mamie Chen. Tony Conigliaro is credited with making London the epicenter of world cocktail culture. He rocked the scene with 69 Colebrooke Row and then with Bar Termini and Termini Centrale. Initially, his concepts take liquid form amidst the distillation equipment and centrifuges of his Drink Factory lab. Conigliaro’s latest venture, in east London’s artsy Dalston district, is Untitled, a bar with an expanded offering of Japanese-influenced food from chef Rob Roy Cameron and a dozen drinks with powerfully evocative flavor narratives.

§ 当今伦敦实验调酒界之王偕同旗下最新潮前卫的名厨，接受TK作家 Mamie Chen 的访谈。§ Tony Conigliaro（以下简称TC）是把伦敦推向世界鸡尾酒文化中心的最大功臣，他以 69 Colebrooke Row， Bar Termini 和 Termini Centrale震撼鸡尾酒界。他最初的构想是将液体从他的饮品工厂实验室 (Drink Factory lab)的蒸馏用具和离心机中提取出来。Tony最近一次的挑战是在位于东伦敦附庸风雅的多斯顿区的「Untitled」酒吧，除了调制能唤起美好记忆、口味浓烈的各式调酒，还有由主厨 Rob Roy Cameron（以下简称RRC）烹调的深受日式风格影响的料理。

Can you describe the approach that you’re taking at Untitled between the food and the cocktails? TC: They’re separate entities that meet very nicely in the middle. RRC: And I think it’s sort of been growing organically – first we started with the drinks and then we needed something to complement the drinks and now each one is sort of growing on its own – they’re working together. And what about the tension between tradition and modern techniques? TC: I don’t think we even notice that. Things like that for me very much seem like barriers. It’s “is it excellent?” – how we get there is irrelevant. The Violin you could say uses really old techniques – it’s just maceration in alcohol and then

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blending, but the result is very, very different because the idea is different. Distillation, extraction are things that have been going on for thousands of years. And I think they’ve just been introduced in a slightly different way. It’s more about the ideas and the flavors. And from the food side? Is it more modern or a bit more traditional? RRC: We do both. Like the salted nettle leaves we did. You get fresh leaves, salt them for a few weeks, and then pickle them in vinegar. That is quite a traditional technique. But from there, we grill them so they’re crispy – and also using nettle, usually it would be shiso leaves. TC: Changing parameters is the way you approach an ingredient – making it work in a different way.

您是如何让「Untitled」酒吧游走在餐点和鸡尾酒之间？ TC ：他们的确是独立的存在，但平衡得非常融洽。 RRC ：而且我认为它们都健康自然地成长着－起初我们只提供调酒，后来想加入能让调酒喝起来更有滋味的元素。现在它们各自茁壮也相映成趣。

那么传统和现代技术之间的冲突呢？ TC ：我们没有感觉到这些，这些对于我来说是障碍。我们只在乎「它是不是很棒？」，至于用什么方式做到不是重点。像是小提琴 (Violin) 用的是老旧的技术，只是在酒精中浸渍然后搅拌，结果却超乎意料，只因为这个「创意」是别出心裁的。说穿了蒸馏和萃取都是几千年前早有的技术，我们只是以稍微不同的方式呈现出来。关键的还是创意和味道。

Waif 流浪者

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Violin

Chef Rob Roy Cameron and drinks master Tony Conigliaro

Interior

Snow

Miso Tomato

酒吧环境

白雪

味噌西红柿

小提琴

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COCKTAIL

Was that in the thought process behind, for instance, your drink named Waif? TC: We wanted something that was very lean, elegant, and – dare I say it? – feminine. It’s got a very light touch. We’re not just looking at the flavors, it’s how the flavors work, how long they last, how short they last, how they appear and disappear in the mouth. What about Snow? TC: Sometimes we start with a concept and try to flesh it out. Behind this drink was the really charming idea that you catch a snowflake on your tongue. And we just tried to make the flavor of snow – it took two years. We always had a missing ingredient and couldn’t work out what it was. Zoe, the head of our lab, was over in Norway, and she sent me a text, “It tastes of enoki, that’s what we’re missing!” And I knew she was right. And what was the inspiration behind Violin? TC: We wanted to put together a lot of smells and flavors that would represent the music and also the actual instrument. We macerated all the ingredients, from the beeswax to the oak and the pepper, all of those things that smell of violins, and blended them to make the whole. There’s a narrative within all the drinks – words with entrance/ exit points that have a lot of meaning. How did your concept for the bar’s interior come about? TC: The drinks came first, how we wanted the drinks to look, how you could present drinks that were so singular in a space that was communal but also had very specific references to Andy Warhol’s Silver Factory art community. A bar should be about sparking conversation, not worshiping at the altar of a bartender’s ego.

那么关于餐点呢？这是属于现代的，还是更像传统的？ RRC ：两者皆是。比如说我们的盐渍荨麻叶的制作。挑选新鲜叶子，盐腌数周，然后放入醋里腌渍，这是相当古老的技术。但接下来我们也会用现代的方法，加入熏烤的作法使其酥脆，也加入荨麻，通常会用紫苏叶。 TC ：挑战局限是处理食材的方法：让食材发挥不同的特质。有什么隐藏在这背后的想法吗？以你取名为流浪者 (Waif) 的调酒为例？ TC ：我们想要呈现出非常简单、优雅，和－我可以这样说吗？－女性化的感觉，非常轻巧的风格。我们不只著重味道，而是关注味道能如何打动人心，持续多久、多快消失、如何在嘴里停留和淡去。关于白雪 (Snow) 呢？ TC ：有时我们从一个概念开始发想，然后试着让它成型。这款调酒背后迷人的创意是想像把雪花放在舌头上品味，而我们花了整整两年时间，就只是把雪的味道调制出来。期间发现总是缺了一味，导致无法做出想要的味道。直到我们实验室的总舵主 Zoe 在挪威旅行时发了讯息给我，「我们缺少的就是金菇的味道！」这就是答案。那么小提琴 (Violin) 的灵感来源呢？ TC ：我们想要在调酒里加入许多香气和味道用来表现音乐和真实的乐器。我们把包括蜂蜡、橡木与胡椒等闻起来像是小提琴味道的原料都泡在酒里，然后搅拌直至融为一体。每一杯调酒都述说着故事，像是「入口」、「出口」这样的名词都有许多含意。酒吧装潢的理念从何而来？ TC ：调酒是我们的第一优先，我们关注调酒该如何呈现，如何在单一、开放的空间调制出独特的调酒，比如在安迪沃荷（Andy Warhol）银色工厂艺术社群。酒吧应该是刺激对话的场域，而不是来用膜拜调酒师自尊的神坛。 britain's bounty

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DANIELCALVERT BELON

ARRONRHODES GOUGHâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ON GOUGH

LEEADAMS SKYE

SHANEOSBORN GRAHAMBURST ARCANE

INTERCON STANFORD

NATEGREEN RHODA

EDDYLEE GARETHPACKHAM ZUMA

BREAD STREET KITCHEN

英伦浪潮

THE BRITISH TOUCH Jane Ram shares how eight noted chefs, all transplants from the UK, bring a traditional taste of home to Hong Kong.

THE TYPICAL PERCEPTION of British food – even in Britain – is that, while it may be flavorful and hearty, it’s a far cry from the cordon-bleu elegance of the French fare that has always been regarded as the culinary gold standard. As UK chefs continue to win a steady procession of major awards, however, attitudes are evolving. Over the past two decades, London has belatedly been acknowledged as among the world’s great dining destinations. Training is still strongly French, but once the basics are in place, ingredients and flavors become increasingly eclectic, since Britain’s food, like its language, has long absorbed international elements along with successive waves of immigrants. In talking with British chefs, it soon becomes clear that the essential ingredient common to them all is nostalgia. Hong Kong diners too, although it has taken a while, have changed their attitudes toward British cooking. Many high-profile international chefs have given their names to new restaurants here that are operated by remote control, with day-to-day operations entrusted to reliable associates. By contrast, Hong Kong’s most interesting new British restaurants are tightly run by highly skilled, ambitious individualists who see the local scene as a fertile environment in which their talents can flourish and their careers take flight. All these chefs share some common characteristics. Realizing that a diploma alone would not take them far, they apprenticed themselves to some of the hardest taskmasters in the business: Gordon Ramsay, the Roux brothers, Gary Rhodes, Tom Aikens, and Marco Pierre White are the names that come up again and again when chefs talk about formative influences. With some among the group barely thirty years old, they all possess boundless passion for their craft and a respect for the best available produce. Doggedly pursuing perfection, these Young Turks exhibit the kind of stamina that allows them to thrive in Hong Kong’s high-pressure working environment.

英国食物一般给人的感觉是（甚至在英国本地也是如此），尽管称得上美味丰盛，但比起洋溢蓝带优雅气息、一直被视为厨艺黄金标准的法国料理，仍有一段距离。然而，随着多位英国厨师拿下厨艺界的重要大奖，世人的态度逐渐转变。过去二十年，伦敦终于被公认为世界最佳美食都市之一。厨师所受的训练仍带有强烈法式风格，可基础到位之后，食材和风味就变得愈来愈多元丰富，因为英国的食物就如她的语言一样，随着移民一波波到来，不断吸收来自世界各地的元素。在与英国厨师的交谈中可以明显感受到，他们共有的基本元素都是怀旧。尽管过程花了一些时间，香港食客对于英国料理的态度也有了转变。著名的国际主厨往往会以自己的名号在此开设新餐厅，遥远掌控营运，日常业务则委托给可靠的员工。相反，香港新开的最有趣的英国餐厅，都是由厨艺高超、胸怀壮志的个人厨师躬亲经营，他们认为香港市场是个肥沃的环境，他们可以在此挥洒才能，发展事业。这些厨师都有些共同点 — 他们深知光有文凭无法出人头地，因而都曾拜入要求最严格的主厨门下学艺：Gordon Ramsay、Roux 兄弟、Gary Rhodes、 Tom Aikens 和 Marco Pierre White，这些是他们谈及影响自己最深的人时一再出现的名字。这群厨师有些甚至还不到 30 岁，但他们都对自己的技艺充满无限热情，并且重视最好的食材。这群年轻小伙子坚持追求完美，展现出不凡毅力，这是他们能在香港高压工作环境下茁壮发展的最大本钱。

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Daniel Calvert BELON

CALVERT BEGAN his career in London, first at modern-British The Ivy, then with Shane Osborn at his two-Michelinstar Pied à Terre. He went on to work for Thomas Keller in New York at threeMichelin-star Per Se before his last stop on the way to Hong Kong, Le Bristol’s three-Michelin-star Épicure in Paris. After eighteen months at Belon, Calvert is pleasantly surprised that the core clientele is mainly older Cantonese. “They’ve traveled and they’re very well informed. They’re the first who want to talk to the chef about the food. As a neo-Parisian bistro, we focus on more French techniques, but I’ve slipped in a few dishes inspired by back home. Our Peach and Koshihikari Rice with Chamomile is a very English creamy rice pudding. Pigeon Pithivier is a pie,

Daniel 的职业生涯始于伦敦，首先进入现代英式餐厅 The Ivy，然后又到米其林二星餐厅 Pied à Terre 追随 Shane Osborn，接着前往纽约米其林三星餐厅 Per Se 师从 Thomas Keller，而来到香港前的最后一个落脚处－ Le Bristol 在巴黎开设的米其林三星餐厅 Épicure。在 Belon 待了 18 个月后，Daniel 惊喜发

and you know how the Brits feel about their pies! “We don’t use many UK products, but we do support a few small producers that offer items superior to anywhere else in the world. Herdwick Lamb’s heritage is evident in the robust flavor of the meat, and Jersey Royal potatoes from the Channel Islands are new potatoes with a delicate sea-like taste. We’ve tried many butters, but salted Channel Islands butter is the best in the world. You can really taste the farm.”

气息。我们试过许多黄油，但加盐的海峡群

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现，餐厅的核心客源主要是年纪较长的香港「他们出过国，见多识广，是第人。他说：一批想找厨师聊聊食物的人。我们是新巴黎风格的餐馆，比较重视法国料理技巧，但我偷偷加入了几道受家乡料理启发的菜式。我们的甜桃越光米饭佐洋甘菊其实是非常道地的英国奶油米布丁，野鸽杏仁派则是一道派，你知道英国人有多喜欢派的！」「我们没用太多英国土产，但对于品质优于世界其他地方的小农，我们的确非常支持。贺德威克羔羊肉风味强烈独特，来自海峡群

场的滋味。」

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岛黄油是全世界最棒的，你真的可以尝到农

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岛的泽西皇家马铃薯则是新品种，带点海洋

THE MODERN BRITISH STYLE and exacting craftsmanship of Arron Rhodes’s food perfectly echo the approach of the restaurant’s creator, British furniture and interiors designer Timothy Oulton. Even the cocktails, including one honoring Churchill, have a British slant. Rhodes perfected his skills at famous restaurants around the world, including in Peru at acclaimed Central, ranked fifth by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and at Maido, ranked eighth. Formative influences, he says, also include the Octaphilosophy of André Chiang and the simple, fresh ingredients of Peruvian street food. Gough’s Seafood Bar offers authentic British cockles and mini Yorkshire puddings with braised beef filling. “We do a prawn cocktail that’s more elegant than the traditional version, and we’re the only Hong Kong restaurant serving bubble and squeak. We’ll be adding Coronation chicken soon,” he boasts, referring to a nostalgic dish created in 1952 to honor the accession of Queen Elizabeth II. Rhodes finds Hong Kong’s limited access to British products frustrating. Those available must come via London and Paris, shortening the lifespan of perishable items like Scottish crab. “Bramley apples are widely available in the UK, but no one has even heard of them in Hong Kong. I asked the supplier to get me any kind of cooking apple, and he asked, ‘What’s a cooking apple?’”

现代英式风格与 Arron Rhodes 精湛的手艺，完美呼应餐厅老板，亦即英国家具室内设计师 Timothy Oulton 的创作。即使是调酒（包括一款向邱吉尔致敬的酒），也带有浓厚的英国气息。

Arron 为了磨练厨艺，曾经游走世界各地著名餐厅，其中包括位于秘鲁、曾被评选为世界 50 佳餐厅第五名的 Central，以及排名第八的 Maido。他表示，对他影响深远的还包括江振诚的八角哲学，以及秘鲁街头美食简单新鲜的食材。

Gough 的海鲜吧提供道地英国蛤蜊，以及内有炖牛肉馅的迷你约克夏布丁。他自豪说道：「我们做的鸡尾酒虾比传统版本更精致，我们也是香港唯一供应马铃薯杂菜馅饼的餐厅，很快还会再加入加冕鸡。」那是在 1952 年为了祝贺英女王伊丽莎白二世登基而创作的一道怀旧菜。香港当地不易取得英国土产，必须经由伦敦和巴黎取得，这点让 Arron 沮丧。食材的长途跋涉压缩了易腐食品的食用期限，例如苏格兰蟹等。「布兰利苹果在英国处处买得到，但在香港却没人听过。我请供应商帮我找任何一种烹调用苹果，但他反问我：『什么是烹调用苹果？』」

Arron Rhodes GOUGH’S ON GOUGH

Shane Osborn ARCANE

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已是英国藉，并视伦敦为家乡。他初出茅庐时是在 Marco Pierre White 手下工作，他形容这位前雇主是「打破一切规则」的人。在瑞典居住的两年间，他学到斯堪的纳维亚的腌渍方法。随着厨艺风格的转变，他在伦敦开设 Pied à Terre 餐厅，并且经营长达 13 年，他形容这是一段很久的时间，一路下来累积了两颗米其林星星。然后，他和家人环游世界两年，最后来到香港。他说道：「以前我对英国食物的认识仅限于烤牛肉、康沃尔馅饼、肉派和黄油面包布丁。现在我才知道，英国食物全是我喜欢烹调和享用的东西。」但是，Arron 和 Shane 也对香港很难取得某些英国土产感到泄气。「在猎节期间，每周配送松鸡和野鸡之类的货品，我们可以拿到五、六只，仅此而已。这里没有风干熟成的鹿肉，我还好想念约克夏的催熟大黄和苏格兰覆盆子。我和太太会特地跑去玛莎百货（Marks & Spencer）吃英国草莓，回忆它们的味道！我们拿得到康沃尔和德文郡产的鱼，但是从英国飞到香港要转好多班机。实在很难理解为什么香港不多引进一些英国土产。我最爱的兰开夏乳酪突然买不到了，我发电子邮件给农场，但没有得到回音，为何他们不理我呢？」他还说道：「许多香港食客依旧不如你所期待的那样受过良好教育，他们非常迷信名牌，这是一大挑战。我们没办法卖鳐鱼，有些部位的牛肉也是如此。就连洋葱和韭菜也有问题，腌菜对本地人来说可能也难以接受。」

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ucts. “During game season there’s one weekly delivery of things like grouse and pheasant – we get five or six birds and that’s it. There’s no dry-aged venison here, and I miss the forced rhubarb from Yorkshire and Scottish raspberries. My wife and I go to Marks & Spencer to eat British strawberries and remind ourselves what they taste like! We do get fish from Cornwall and Devon, but with so many flights between the UK and Hong Kong, it’s hard to understand why more British produce is not available. My favorite Lancashire cheese is suddenly unobtainable. I emailed the farm but got no response. Why aren’t they interested? “Many Hong Kong diners are still not as educated as you’d expect,” he says. “They tend to be very brandminded, which is a challenge. We can’t sell skate, and the same is true of some prime cuts. Even onions and leeks can be problematic and pickling can be challenging for local palates.”

Shane Osborn 出生于澳洲，现

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BORN IN AUSTRALIA, Shane Osborn is now a naturalized Briton and regards London as home. His first job was working for Marco Pierre White, who, he says, “broke all the rules.” During two years in Sweden, he learned the Scandinavian approach to preserving and pickling. As his style evolved, he founded Pied à Terre in London and ran it for what he describes as thirteen very long years, accumulating two Michelin stars along the way. Then he set off with his family to travel the world for two years, ending up in Hong Kong. “My idea of British food previously was limited to roast beef, Cornish pasty, meat pies and bread-and-butter pudding,” he says. “Now I realize that British food is about things I like to cook and eat.” But Osborn, like Rhodes, is frustrated by Hong Kong’s limited range of certain UK prod-

Lee Adams SKYE

L E E A D A M S D E S C R I B E S Skye’s food as contemporary French with

Lee Adams 形容 Skye 的食物是利用受到英国影响的

UK -influenced cooking methods and flavors and some Asian touches in

方法烹饪，带有英国风味，再加点亚洲特色以向本地

homage to local culture. “I can’t put a menu on without going back to my heritage. I was trained for so long by Gary Rhodes, the champion of British cuisine. He uses a lot of classic French techniques and ingredients in British recipes. I do much the same and also take British products and methods to make French dishes. It’s fun to play around.” Working for Michel Roux was a turning point for Adams. “I was the only British chef among twenty-nine French ones for most of my two years there. They didn’t have the highest opinion of British chefs and the abuse was endless but character-forming. Many new chefs probably don’t realize what they owe to the Roux brothers for revolutionizing British cuisine. Some of what are thought of as British dishes are actually French, brought over by them, and they also lifted many British dishes to a new level in some way.“ Sage-and-onion hash is a British traditional favorite. Adams makes it exceptional with a poached duck egg, smoky barbecue sauce, and crispy black rice. “We’ll soon have a Josper oven, ideal for whole roast chicken, one of my favorite smells, along with strawberry arctic roll and petrol. We’ll carve chicken at the table and serve it with all the trimmings.” Ingredients for terroir salad come from the hotel’s roof. “The garden is one floor up from the kitchen,” says Adams. “I go up there in the morning with a pair of scissors. The smell of rosemary takes me right back to my childhood and my grandparents’ allotment.”

文化致敬的当代法国料理。「我推出的菜单一定保有自己身上的传统。我在英国料理泰斗 Gary Rhodes 门下学艺许久，他运用许多典型法国料理技巧与英国菜食谱的食材。我做的事大同小异，也是利用英国土产与烹调手法来做法国料理，这样玩起来非常有趣。」在 Michel Roux 旗下工作是 Lee 职业生涯的转折点。「我在那里待了两年，我是 29 位法国厨师以外唯一一个英国厨师。英国厨师评价不高，永远有挨不完的骂，但这却有利性格养成。许多新进厨师可能没有意识到 Roux 兄弟为改革英国料理带来多大贡献，有些被认为是英国料理的菜式，其实是他们引进的法国菜，可以说他们将许多英国菜肴提升到全新层次。」鼠尾草加洋葱丁是英国传统菜肴最爱使用的配料，Lee 利用水煮鸭蛋、烟熏烧烤酱和脆黑米，使其华丽变身。「我们很快就会有个 Josper 烤箱，最适合烤全鸡。烤鸡、草莓雪糕蛋糕和汽油，这些都是我喜爱的气味。我们会直接在桌边切开鸡肉，加上所有装饰后上菜。」「花风味沙拉的食材来自酒店顶楼。Lee 说道：园就在厨房楼上，早上我都带着剪刀上去，迷迭香的气味让我回到童年和我祖父母的菜园。」

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Graham Burst

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尽管接受的是严格的法国料理训练，但 Graham Burst 坚定保留他对精致英国土产的热爱。当他谈起家乡德文郡的 Westaways 香肠、威尔斯羔羊肉或芬湖牡蛎和鲑鱼时，他的双眼微笑了起来。「午 Graham 忠于家乡的情感在六月份酒店主办的午宴中一览无遗。他说道：宴主题是『大不列颠之夏：林间野餐』，这是我做过最英式的东西。我们搭配餐前酒，送上迷你苏格兰蛋和炸鱼薯条。每次出菜，我都必须出来解释，因为他们不一定了解菜名或视觉上的有趣安排。」餐前小吃是摆放在镂空的原木上的马麦酱风味马卡龙，藏在 Kilner 玻璃罐中的罐装龙虾和蟹肉，配上自制姜汁啤酒 — 这是以

London Pride 淡啤酒、柠檬汁和姜味糖浆制成，倒进银色啤酒杯插上条纹吸管饮用。汤品是「伦敦特色汤」，但并非原本的豌豆浓汤，而是本地甜豆加入火腿清汤熬煮而成的，装进茶壶上桌，佐上使用伊比利火腿的「培根」三明治食用。「琴汤尼意式冰沙」原料为粉红琴酒、汤尼、新鲜牡蛎和英国小黄瓜切片。「帝国回忆」是用咖喱猪肚向果亚咖喱致敬，「英人牌威士忌腌烤牛肉」则是佐上斯提尔顿黄油，此为赞颂温布顿网球赛之和烟熏马铃薯。压轴甜点为草莓查佛蛋糕「请换新球」作，以饰有假草的马丁尼杯盛装，内有半颗网球。即使是小蛋糕也有奇趣的英国特色：椰子冰、脆煤渣太妃糖、土耳其软糖和糖老鼠。「香港是个了解别国美食的好地方。1998 年当我还在伦敦工作时，我们根本不知道香茅要怎么用。就我所知，英国厨师如今还是在东取一

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点、西凑一些，然后称之为融合！当你在一个这些食材都很普遍的国家加入国际团队工作时，情况会大有不同。」

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ALTHOUGH HIS TRAINING was strictly French, Graham Burst has staunchly retained his passion for fine British produce. His eyes mist over when he talks of Westaways sausages from his home county of Devon or of Welsh lamb or Loch Fyne oysters and salmon. Burst’s loyalties had free rein at a luncheon hosted by the hotel in June. “The theme was ‘Summer in Great Britain: Picnic in the Woods,’” he says, “and it was the most British thing I’ve ever done. With pre-lunch drinks, we handed around mini Scotch eggs and fish and chips. I had to come out and explain every course – they didn’t always get the names or the visual jokes.” The amusebouche was a hollowed-out log topped by a Marmite-flavored macaron that hid a Kilner jar of potted lobster and crabmeat. Accompanying was homemade ginger ale, made with London Pride pale ale, lemon juice, and ginger syrup and served in silver tumblers with striped straws. The soup was London Particular, but, rather than the thick pea original, this was ham consommé with local sugar peas, served from a teapot and paired with a “bacon” sandwich of ibérico ham. The G&T Granité was made with pink gin and tonic, fresh oysters, and compressed English cucumber. Memories of an Empire paid homage to Goan curry with a pork belly vindaloo, and Beef Eater Whisky Marinated Roast Beef was served with Stilton butter and smoked potato. The grand finale was a strawberry trifle named New Balls Please. An ode to Wimbledon, it was served in a martini glass amidst fake grass with half a tennis ball. Even the petits fours had the quirky British touch: Coconut Ice, Crunchy Cinder Toffee, Turkish Delight, and Sugar Mice. “Hong Kong is a great place to learn about other cuisines. When I last worked in London in 1998, we didn’t know what to do with lemon grass. From what I read, UK chefs are still trying to bring together a bit of this and that and call it fusion! When you work with an international team in a country where these ingredients are normal, it’s quite different.”

Eddy Lee

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ZUMA

BORN AND EDUCATED IN NEWCASTLE, Eddy Lee still has the accent to prove it, although his profession has taken him to many parts of the world. “I was brought up with homemade Hakka food as well as many British dishes like mince and dumplings, roast dinners, sausages and chips, and gammon and eggs. Our family treat was eating fish and chips by the coast. “I remember how exciting it was when my mum made apple pie from a recipe passed on to her by our lovely neighbor. I was exposed to more desserts at school – jam roly-poly with custard, trifle, Eton mess, rice pudding. I also loved the bakeries full of treats like strawberry tarts, Madeira cakes, tea cakes, and scones. 在纽卡斯尔出生上学的 Eddy，尽管仍有 “My university days taught me 乡音，但他的专业已经带他走过世界许 a lot of the British classics that I still 多地方。「把我养大的是家人煮的客家 incorporate in many of my dishes. 菜，以及许许多多英国菜，像是肉末汤团、 My signature Caramel Banana Cake 烤肉大餐、香肠薯条以及火腿煎蛋。我 is derived from banoffee pie, my 们的家庭聚餐就是在海边吃炸鱼薯条。」 childhood favorite. I still miss British 「我还记得，我妈妈照着热心邻居 puddings like rhubarb crumble. 给的食谱做苹果派时，我有多兴奋。在 “From what I see in Hong Kong, 学校我接触到更多甜点 —— 卡士达果酱 the British food is predominantly high卷布丁、查佛蛋糕、伊顿杂糕、米布丁。 end, compared to when I arrived a 我也很爱去面包店看各种甜点，比如草 decade ago. The typical plate of stodge 莓塔、马德拉蛋糕、茶饼和司康。」 has been replaced with modern meth「大学时期我学会很多英国经典料 ods. Everything must be photogenic, 理，现在我做的许多菜肴仍可见当时的 with intricate plating served in a hip 影响。我的招牌焦糖香蕉蛋糕是从香蕉 ambience. Customers are always look太妃派衍生而来，这是我小时候的最爱。如今我还是很想念大黄酥碎派那些英国布丁。」 ing for novelty, unlike in the UK, where menus haven’t changed in fifteen years or more at places like The Savoy and The Dorchester.”

「据我在香港的观察，英国料理主要是高档菜肴，相较于我十年前刚来的时候，已经大

不相同。典型装得满满的盘餐已成明日黄花，现在一切都必须上镜漂亮、摆盘精致、装潢时髦。顾客都追逐新奇，不像在英国，The Savoy 和 The Dorchester 等知名餐厅的菜单可以 15 年或更久不变。」 britain's bounty

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Nate Green

RHODA

MENUS COULDN’T GET more British than at Rhoda, which is named after Green’s grandmother. Her traditional cooking – to which he adds a few new touches of his own – has remained with Green since earliest childhood. “Comfort food is always our focus and we aim to make food which invokes memory. Those in the know phone ahead and order my Lancashire Hot Pot – I’m probably the only person in Hong Kong who makes it.” Authentic faggots are one of Green’s favorite specialties from his home region near Birmingham. “The meatballs use all the offal from the pig. I add bacon to mine and serve it with mash, peas and onion gravy. I like to adapt and twist British classics. Our roast chicken is done above open flames for three hours, brushed with miso and seaweed butter for an Asian taste. Roast beef and Yorkshire pudding is the one meal which defines British food, and I stick to tradition for Rhoda’s version, with lots of gravy.” Rhoda’s puddings are also traditional. “Ginger biscuit trifle is something my mom used to make and I love to put it on the menu,” says Green. Eton mess, to which he adds green tea, is another classic: “The dish famously came about when someone dropped a pavlova on the floor and scooped it back up and put it in a bowl. “I love British meat and cheeses and I tend to lean towards using them here in Hong Kong. Cottage pie is my favorite way to use up our meat trimmings and I make three versions at the restaurant, beef, venison, and lamb. Shepherd’s pie would be the choice for my last meal on earth.”

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没有餐厅的菜单比以 Nate Green 祖母之名命名的 Rhoda 餐厅的更英式了。Nate 自小受到祖母的传统厨艺影响，他亦以此为基础加入自己的新创意。「疗愈食物一直是我们的重点，我们想做能勾起记忆的食物。内行的顾客会先打电话来预订我的兰开夏火锅，我可能是香港唯一在做这道料理的人。」正宗的英式肉丸是 Nate 最爱的家乡特色菜之一，菜式都来自伯明翰附近地区。「这种肉丸使用全部的猪内脏，我的版本多了培根，并且搭配马铃薯泥、豌豆和洋葱肉汁。我喜欢变通和改造英国经典料理。我们的烤鸡是放在明火上烤三个小时，同时刷上味噌和海藻黄油以增添亚洲风味。烤牛肉和约克夏布丁是相当经典的一顿英国餐食，我在 Rhoda 坚持传统作法，加入大量肉汁。」

Rhoda 的布丁同样非常传统。「我很喜欢妈妈以前做过的姜饼查佛蛋糕，所以把它放进菜单。」

Nate 说道。伊顿杂糕是另一道经典，他多加了绿茶，「这道甜点之所以问世，是因为有人不小心把帕芙洛娃蛋糕掉在地上，然后又将它舀回碗里。」「我喜欢英国的肉品和乳酪，所以我在香港往往会使用这些食材。我最喜欢把碎肉拿来做农舍派，我在餐厅做了牛肉、鹿肉和羊肉三种版本。如果哪天大限将至，牧羊人派将会是我选择的最后一餐。」

Gareth Packham BREAD STREET KITCHEN

“YOU’RE NOT EATING STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING,”

「你不仅是 Gareth Packham 说：

says Gareth Packham, “you’re eating my memories of grandma.” He even bought his pudding molds in the UK, because Hong Kong doesn’t have the kind that form a vacuum to compress the mix for the right consistency. Packham’s version of fish and chips also draws on his memory bank: “Get the batter right, use proper chips – where you can see the rough edges – and make real mushy marrowfat peas – I’m nine years old again.” Steak pudding, another childhood favorite, doesn’t include the traditional kidneys, because the chef simply doesn’t like them. When he had difficulty obtaining the essential beef suet in Hong Kong, he bought an entire cow and rendered it down to make his own. Another Gordon Ramsay alumnus, Packham worked with the master at the Savoy Grill for six years, leading a team of thirty-five chefs. After nine months in Hong Kong, the extroverted Mancunian says he is starting to understand what local diners want. Beef Wellington is very popular, as are the classes he teaches on how to make it. His innovative Lobster Wellington is equally popular. The new weekend English breakfast (including a vegetarian version) is also doing well. “I went all around Hong Kong looking for a full English breakfast, but it was mostly frisée salad and garlic bread.”

在吃绵密的太妃糖布丁，还是在感受我对祖母的回忆。」因为香港没有那种真空成型，可以确保成品完全一致的布丁模具，他甚至还跑到英国购买。

Gareth 做的炸鱼薯条同样来自他的过往记忆：「面糊要拌匀，薯条要用对，表面粗糙的才好，然后再做很糊的豌豆泥 —— 感觉好像又回到九岁那时。」牛肉布丁是他另一道童年爱吃的料理，单纯因为厨师本人喜好，里面没有传统作法都会放的肾脏。由于在香港很难买到必备的牛脂，所以他买了一整只牛，自己熬煮。

Gareth 也是师从 Gordon Ramsay，他在 Savoy Grill 餐厅跟了这位主厨六年，领导一支 35 名厨师的团队。在香港待了九个月后，这个外向的曼彻斯特人说他开始明白本地食客想要什么。威灵顿牛排很受欢迎，他教授这道料理的课程也是。他创作的威灵顿龙虾同样很受喜爱，新推出的周末英式早餐（包括素食版本）也表现不俗。「我走遍香港各地寻找全套英式早餐，但大部分都是菊苣沙拉和大蒜面包。」

COURTESY OF BREAD STREET KITCHEN (2)

COURTESY OF RHODA (2)

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Caldo verde soup with chorizos 葡式青菜汤配葡式肉肠

“This is a very traditional soup,” Li explains, “and a musthave in authentic Portuguese dining.” Potatoes and broccoli are main components in the thick, flavorful soup base. Sourced from the US and France, the potatoes are marinated in salt and then cooked slowly for several hours. The hearty dish’s other ingredients, including chopped vegetables, cheese, and chorizo, are presented in a bowl, and the steaming broth is dramatically poured over them in front of the diner.

李总厨表示：「这汤非常道地，品尝传统葡式料理时绝不可错过。」这道汤品以马铃薯及花椰菜调出味道丰厚的浓汤底，美国及法国进口的马铃薯以盐腌渍后慢慢熬上数个小时。其他食材还包括蔬菜粒、乳酪及葡式肉肠，全部放在碗里后上桌，在客人面前直接浇上热汤，呈现令人惊喜的戏剧效果。

PRESENTED BY HOTEL LISBOA MACAU

葡韵中味

translating tradition

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A seasoned local chef makes the classic cuisine of Portugal speak the language of Macau.

IN A CITY WHERE Portuguese restaurants have always belonged and have always abounded, Guincho a Galera has quickly won its reputation as a classic. A lot of the credit goes to Chef de Cuisine Simon Li, who has been at the helm of Hotel Lisboa’s premier fine-dining establishment since it opened five years ago. Li, who has had a career spanning more than thirty years, entered the industry straight out of high school. The native Hong Konger first developed an interest in Western cuisine through the tempting displays of entrees and pastries he saw on restaurant posters. He went on to hold posts at a number of Hong Kong’s fine-dining restaurants before taking a year out to travel across Europe and learn firsthand about the Continent’s diversity of foods and cooking methods. The high standards and authenticity for which Guincho a Galera has become known can be traced to the training Li received in Portugal at Michelin-starred Fortaleza do Guincho, of which the local restaurant is a branch. Working closely with Fortaleza’s famous chef, Vincent Farges, Li assimilated all the finer points of traditional Portuguese

在澳门，葡萄牙菜向来占有一席之地，大街小巷都能看到葡国餐厅的踪迹。澳门葡京酒店内的餐厅「Guincho a Galera」进军澳门不久旋即获得肯定，成为最具代表性的经典葡菜餐厅之一。餐厅总厨李楚兴功不可没，从餐厅 5 年前于葡京酒店开业至今，一直都是餐厅的灵魂人物。李总厨的厨艺生涯至今超过 30 年，高中毕业便一脚踏进料理界。在香港土生土长的他，因看到餐厅海报上美不胜收的前菜及糕点而对西式料理心生向往，前后曾于香港多家高级餐厅任职，后来赴欧游历一年，亲身接触欧洲的多元美食及烹饪方法。众所周知，「Guincho a Galera」对于美食有着高标准，坚持提供正宗葡式料理。此一精神可溯回总厨于葡萄牙米其林星级餐厅「Fortaleza do Guincho」所接受的专业训练，而「Guincho a Galera」正是餐厅的首间海外分店。与「Fortaleza do Guincho」名厨 Vincent Farges 并肩工作的经验让总厨获益良多，将传统葡式料理的优点集大成后派任澳门坐镇「Guincho a Galera」，正好可以学以致用。他表示：「在那学了很多，下一步就是把我所学到的正宗葡式料理应用在澳门餐饮界。体验过 Fortaleza 的独特风格、烹饪方式及技巧且容纳贯通之后，真的迫不及待要带回澳门一飨饕客。」

Attention to detail has made Guincho a Galera a classic. 专注细节是Guincho a Galera 能成为经典的要素。

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Seafood rice with Boston lobster, crab, shrimps and clams 特式海鲜饭：波士顿龙虾、蟹、虾及蚬 Boston lobster, clams from the US, locally sourced flower crabs, and prawns from freshwater farms are simmered together in a broth, with the addition of arroz Carolino , Portugal’s famous short-grain rice. Typically, the dish requires two chefs to prepare and takes about twenty minutes. “It’s rich and full of flavor, almost like a risotto, except that Portuguese rice doesn’t absorb the soup as much.” 美国直送的波士顿龙虾及蚬，加上在地花蟹及淡水养殖场的明虾通通放进高汤，同时加入葡萄牙著名的短粒米 arroz Carolino 一起文火慢煮。海鲜饭通常需要有两位厨师同时烹调，「这道菜相当需时约 20 分钟。总厨介绍说：丰富，香味四溢，吃起来有炖饭的口感，差别在于葡萄牙米不会吸收那么多汤汁。」

Roasted suckling pig with mashed potatoes and vegetables 葡式烧乳猪伴薯茸及杂菜 Although in Portugal this dish is usually served with head and feet intact, Li removes them for a more aesthetically pleasing presentation. First, the pig is roasted “until it reaches a point where the crispiness is right – a skill gained through experience.” The meat is then arranged in a rounded shape and wrapped underneath the crispy skin to lock in moisture and fat. 照葡萄牙当地作法，乳猪会连头及脚整只猪一起上桌。但总厨稍做调整，追求更具美感的摆盘方式：首先，将乳猪烧至恰到好处的酥脆程度，这步骤需要有相当经验才能拿捏得当。烧好后将猪肉排成圆形，盖在酥脆的猪皮下，锁住丰沛肉汁及美味的脂肪。

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Chef de Cuisine Simon Li

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

餐厅总厨李楚兴

总厨以「国际化、东西合并」形容自己的风格，并依据地方口味重新演绎葡萄牙经典大菜。澳门店大部分菜式与母餐厅菜单相仿，但多了些细微变化。「Guincho a Galera」的多道菜式以迎合澳门在地口味为主，向当地的餐饮文化致敬。举例来说，非洲鸡就是所谓的澳门葡菜，在葡萄牙几乎吃不到。有些食材在澳门可能难以取得，抑或海鲜等食材无法在运送过程中维持最

佳鲜度，总厨遂开始在澳门寻找替代食材。餐厅精心挑选几个澳门葡萄牙食材进口商，与之密切合作，乳猪、24 个月熟成伊比利亚火腿，或多种不同的乳酪都是从葡萄牙空运直送。总厨强调：「我们将葡萄牙元素以澳门风格再次呈现，主要还是依循 Fortaleza 的正宗葡式作法，搭配在地食材，悉心调配过后，做出符合中国客人的口味。」

总厨凭借对料理无与伦比的敏感度及控制力，成功替「Guincho a Galera」建立一批固定的粉丝。为了庆祝五周年，餐厅推出结合创意料理及经典招牌菜的特别菜单，酬谢忠实顾客之外也希望吸引新客。特别菜单包括各种道地葡式口味的精选甜点，以及缀以原汁原味 tapas 葡式小菜－沙丁鱼、马介休及章鱼的开胃菜盘。 britain's bounty

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“Algarve” clementine gratin with mandarin orange sherbet 奶油烤柑橘伴橘子雪葩

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总厨的甜酸点心以柑橘萃取果汁为要角，制成卡士达酱、果冻及舒芙蕾等不同面貌，层次相当丰富，一口尝得满嘴水果鲜味。全部食材，包括橘子雪葩，全部都是自家现做。甜点虽以葡萄牙阿尔加维区的著名水果－柑橘命名，实际却是从日本空运而来，以求鲜度无虞。

DAVID HARTUNG

cuisine before being appointed to his role at Guincho a Galera. “After learning so much there, I wanted to put my knowledge of the authentic food of Portugal to use here in Macau,” he says. “When you experience Fortaleza’s style, methods, and skills, you absorb it all and can’t wait to bring it back.” The chef defines his approach as “international, East-meets-West” with an emphasis on reinterpreting Portuguese dishes to appeal to local palates. While the majority of his offerings closely emulate those of the restaurant’s sister establishment, there are subtle differences. A number cater to the affinities of Macanese diners by paying homage to the city’s culinary heritage. African chicken, for example, is a local staple that might be difficult to find in Portugal. Some ingredients that are not readily available on this side of the world or that wouldn’t retain peak freshness during shipment, including much of the seafood, find locally sourced alternatives. Guincho a Galera also works with a select number of suppliers of Portuguese products in Macau. The suckling pig, twenty-four-month aged jamón ibérico, and several varieties of cheese, for example, are imported from Portugal. “We take Portuguese elements in a new direction, presenting them in a Macaneseinspired way,” Li says. “Essentially, we follow Fortaleza’s recipes with ingredients that are sourced here and then carefully adjust the details to match Chinese tastes.” Li’s pitch-perfect culinary sensibilities have won Guincho a Galera a steady fan base. In celebration of its fifth anniversary this year, the restaurant is rewarding loyal customers and welcoming new ones with a special menu of original creations and beloved favorites. A dessert sampler offers all the traditional tastes, and an amuse-bouche platter features tapas-style Portuguese bites – think sardines, bacalhau, and octopus.

Fruitiness takes center stage in this madeto-order dessert. Li’s sweet-and-sour creation features extracted clementine juice appearing in various guises: custard, jelly, and souffle. All, including the accompanying mandarin sherbet, are created in-house. And, although the dish honors the renowned fruits of Portugal’s Algarve region, the clementines are actual ly sourced from Japan to ensure maximum freshness.

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Robin Zavou Mandarin Grill, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kongâ&#x20AC;&#x201A;

PRESENTED BY KRUG

蘑菇最佳搭档

Mushrooms Meet Their Match

CAROL SACHS (3)

Three of Hong Kong’s master chefs pair mushroom masterworks with the ultimate complement, Krug Grande Cuvée.

Dish: Fermented ceps, roasted shiitakes, dried savoy cabbage • Pairing notes: Being so close to Japan in geographical terms, we’re fortunate to be able to work with a vast array of incredible products in our kitchen. For this dish, we used a Japanese shiitake block and cooked the mushrooms on the cork block that they’re grown on. I wanted to create a dish that resembles the forest, and roasting the shiitakes achieves this perfectly. The ceps are fermented and puréed, and the resulting water is used as a seasoning spray. The notes of toasted bread and nougat in Krug Grande Cuvée bring another facet to the dish, perfectly rounding off the pairing.

菜式：发酵牛肝菌、烤香菇、干皱叶甘蓝 • 搭配重点：我们很幸运与日本有地利之便，因此厨房里的食材种类非常多。这道菜用的是日本香菇块，我们用它们赖以生长的软木塞一起烹煮。我想创造出酷似森林的菜式，而烤香菇最能达到这种效果。牛肝菌经过发酵、捣烂，产生的汁液可用作调味。Krug Grande Cuvée 香槟有一股烤面包和坚果的喉韵，为这道菜带来另一番风味，可谓完美搭配。 britain's bounty

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Dish: Red abalone, chestnut gnocchi, mushroom jus, Alba white truffle • Pairing notes: When I designed this dish, I paired what I consider to be the most prestigious mushroom, the Alba white truffle, with the most prestigious Champagne, Krug Grande Cuvée. The earthiness of the Alba truffle perfectly complements the sweeter fruit and almond notes in the Champagne. Truffle and Krug Grande Cuvée are an exquisite combination that is always a classic.

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菜式：红鲍、栗子汤团、蘑菇汁、阿尔巴白松露 • 搭配重点：在设计这道菜时，我将我心中最顶级的菌类－阿尔巴白松露，与第一流的香槟－ Krug Grande Cuvée 相结合。阿尔巴白松露的泥土气息与香槟本身稍甜的水果味和杏仁余韵互补，堪称绝配。松露和 Krug Grande Cuvée 香槟配在一起享用，风味醇美，可谓经典搭配。

Umberto Bombana

CAROL SACHS (2)

8Â½ Otto e Mezzo, Hong Kong

PRESENTED BY KRUG

Vicky Cheng VEA, Hong Kong

菜式：迷幻森林 • 搭配重点：世上有许多种蘑菇，每一种都是风味独具。为了营造出强烈的对比，我特意挑选几种欧洲料理常见的蘑菇，搭配几种产于中国的蘑菇，其中有新鲜的、也有晒干的。这道菜是为了呼应菌菇处处的森林中丰沛的泥土气息。入口时会先尝到微微的坚果香，最后以一股清甜收尾，恰与啜饮 Krug

Grande Cuvée 香槟时舌尖上的韵味变化相似：先是烤过的布里欧修面包与榛果滋味，逐渐渗出果冻的微甜。

CAROL SACHS (4)

Dish: Lost in the Rainforest • Pairing notes: There are so many different types of mushrooms in the world, each unique in its own way. I wanted to highlight some familiar mushrooms that are common in European cuisine and contrast them with mushrooms from China, both fresh and dried. The dish is designed to reflect the earthiness of a forest full of fungi. It starts with a slight nuttiness on the palate and finishes with a slight sweetness, echoing the evolution from toasted brioche and hazelnut notes toward slightly sweeter jellied fruits that you find when tasting Krug Grande Cuvée.

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PRESENTED BY KRUG

TO THE DELIGHT of Champagne lovers in Hong Kong, the House of Krug, after more than twelve years of attentive aging in its illustrious cellars, has released its spectacular 2004 vintage. According to Krug CEO Maggie Henriquez, the conditions in Champagne during the 2004 season were challenging but “almost perfect” for the chardonnay-dominated blend. “It was a cool, fresh year leading to a beautifully warm summer,” she says. “There is a luminosity and a vivacity to the 2004, given by the chardonnay grapes, which ripened so beautifully in the summer sun. “The year was so generous, we were able to pick the ripest fruit. Unlike chardonnay, pinot noir does not love the cold quite as much, but these grapes provide the backbone and structure that increase its aging ability.” Following 2002 and 2003, the 2004 vintage retains the elegance and roundness of the famed Krug style and completes a stunning trilogy, the second such three-season triumph ever for the Champagne house after the legendary 1988, 1989, 1990 series. In a select few markets, including Hong Kong, the 2004 vintage is presented alongside the Grande Cuvée 160ème Édition. With its distinctive burnished gold color and the muscular dominance of the pinot noir grape, the masterful blend is composed around the harvest of 2004 and features a hundred and twenty wines from more than twelve vintages. To celebrate, Krug has enlisted the talents of British singer and songwriter Lianne La Havas. “Music and Champagne,” she says, “share a powerful connection.” La Havas expresses that connection in a curated playlist of six selections inspired by her emotional impressions of tasting Krug’s remarkable 2004 vintage.

Hong Kong’s wait is rewarded with Krug 2004

得知在 Krug 酒庄的酒窖里，藏有经 12 年余的专注熟成后、已经酝酿出风味别具的 2004 年份香槟，许多爱喝香槟的香港同好莫不喜出望外。

Krug 执行长 Maggie Henriquez 表示，2004 年的天气并不适合多数香槟熟成，但对这款夏多内混合品种来说，却「几近完美」。她说：「那年春天气候凉爽，到了夏日又暖和美好，可以说 2004 年既明亮又有生命力，夏多内葡萄在夏日阳光下生长极佳。」「那一年真是大丰收，我们采收了成熟剔透的葡萄。与夏多内不同，黑皮诺不喜寒，但这个品种的葡萄却能有效增进日后的熟成潜力。」

2004 年份香槟延续前两年的风格，保留了 Krug 酒庄最为人熟知的优雅圆润，令人惊叹地为这三个年份（2002 － 2004）的结合画上句号。从酒庄成立以来，上一回连续三年的大丰收要追溯到 1988—1990 年系列。在包括香港的几个精选市场中，2004 年份香槟跟 Krug Grande

Cuvée 160 周年香槟配成一组。收成于 2004 年，这款混合酒以超过 12 个不同年份所酿制的 120 种酒混制而成，呈现出艳金色泽、以黑皮诺雄浑的 Krug 酒庄请来英国作曲人兼歌手 Lianne La Havas 高调庆祝。她说：「音乐与香槟本来就有极强的关联。」Lianne 为表达两者间的紧密联系，品尝了卓尔不凡的 2004 年份香槟，深受启发后精心谱写了六首音乐。

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LEE COAD

气味为基底，气韵相当生动。

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL MACAU

创意料理新风潮

game changers

Strawberry Fields

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MACAU’S signature bar

and restaurant may be intended for leisurely dinners, serious business lunches, and convivial cocktail hours, but with the arrival of Chef de Cuisine Matthias Knilling and bartender Nikita Matveev, there are bound to be some surprising new ways to eat and drink. Chef Knilling’s interest in creative cooking began early on in his native Germany. “I was ten when I first realized that this is what I want to do,” he says. “I just loved the whole feel of the kitchen.” After completing his studies, he worked with Holger Stromberg, one of Germany’s most famous celebrity chefs, before moving on to Michelin-starred Schloss Elmau and finally taking his post at Vida Rica in May of this year.

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Since then, he’s been hard at work on an array of innovative menu items designed to look like art on a plate. He’s the first, however, to acknowledge that a standout menu can never succeed on looks alone. “I’m always looking for those really great ingredients,” he says. “Dishes should be eyecatching, yes, but it’s far more important that they taste fantastic.” Guests can look forward to a lot more interaction with the chefs as they introduce more tableside preparation and the German tradition of carving meats in front of diners. “That’s the sort of stuff I really love,” says the chef. “You‘ve got to work with passion and always give your best.” He has also created an entirely new tapas menu, with dishes like seafood paella, potato tortilla, and scallops with chorizo hollandaise, to be served in the bar as savory complements to bartender Nik’s imaginative drinks. Matveev, originally from St. Petersburg in Russia, completed his law degree before discovering a latent and irrepressible talent for mixology. “After I graduated,” he says, “I started working at the Soho Lounge and I was hooked immediately.” While honing his skills at a downtown speakeasy, he experimented with new ingredients and flavors and then moved up to become bar manager at Imbibe, one of the city’s most popular drinking spots. “When I entered the Diageo World Class Russia Cocktail Championship and ranked number ten, I knew that I wanted to explore the world of mixology beyond the bounds of Russia.”

At Vida Rica, Nik has created his own special sangria menu. It features an instant classic made with bourbon, five spices, and cherries, as well as his sangria Porthole, a drink in which the mix of fresh fruits, berries, and spices “glass ages” in the cocktail infusion vessel with dry sherry, peach liquor, and rum. Another creation is topped with a shock of pink cotton candy, and still another is served with a slow-melting ice ball of dragon fruit and lychee juice. “Sangria is a really social drink,” says Nik. “It’s made for sharing, for good vibes, and that’s what makes it fun to play around with different flavors and different ways to serve it. The best part of my job is getting to meet new people all the time. Conversations are my favorite part of the day.”

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A freewheeling young team takes Vida Rica in a whole new direction.

澳门文华东方酒店最富代表性的餐厅酒廊 Vida Rica，能一次满足顾客的所有需求。你可以在此享用悠闲的晚餐，或安排正式的商务聚会，也可以在傍晚时分放松地喝杯鸡尾酒。随着新主厨 Matthias Knilling 与调酒师 Nikita Matveev 的加入，Vida Rica 将会提供更多令人耳目一新的餐饮体验。在德国长大的主厨 Matthias 从小就对创意料理很感兴趣。他说：「我十岁时就明白这是我毕生的追求，我就是很享受在厨房烹调的感觉。」完成学业后，他先跟德国名气最响亮的厨师 Holger Stromberg 学艺，之后远赴度假酒店 Schloss Elmau 的米其林星级餐厅工作，今年五月才到 Vida Rica 担任主厨。 Matthias 致力开发一个个新菜式，希望每道菜端出来都像是件艺术品。不过，他也坦白承认菜式光是好看还不够。他说

道：「我一直在寻找最棒的食材。菜式应该要令人眼前一亮，但美妙口感更为重要。」 Vida Rica 延续德国在顾客面前切肉的传统，因此顾客有不少机会与厨师互动。「我就是喜欢这样，」主厨说，「你要投注热情，尽力做到最好。」他还设计出全新的西班牙小食菜单（Tapas)，有西班牙海鲜炖饭、马铃薯蛋饼、干贝佐荷兰风味西班牙辣肠等等，搭配调酒师 Nik 别出心裁的调酒，堪称一绝。 Nik 来自俄罗斯圣彼得堡，取得法律学位后才发现自己对调酒有不可遏抑的热情与天份。「毕业以后，」他说，「我先在 Soho Lounge 工作，一下子就爱上了这份工作。」于是他先在市中心的地下酒吧磨练技巧，拿各种新原料和风味做实验，之后在当地最受欢迎的 Imbibe 酒吧担任经理。「我参加了 Diageo Reserve World Class 世界

顶尖调酒大赛并获得第十名，了解到相比起在俄国发展，我更想到广阔的世界闯荡，探索调酒的艺术。」 Nik 为 Vida Rica 打造出一系列独特的桑格利亚酒，有波本威士忌、五种香料和樱桃调制而成的经典款，也有用类似舷窗的酒器 Porthole 摇出的桑格利亚酒，这种酒混合了新鲜水果、莓果和香料，再倒入马丁尼杯，最后淋上干雪利酒、蜜桃利口酒与兰姆酒。另一款是加上一球粉红棉花糖，或是加上慢慢融化的火龙果冰块和荔枝汁。「桑格利亚酒最适合在社交场合喝，」 Nik 表示，「是专为分享与美好气氛调制的酒，也因此用不同技法调出不同风味给大家品尝才会这么好玩。这份工作最棒的一点是经常可以认识新面孔，跟他们聊天是我一天当中最快乐的时刻。」 britain's bounty

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For his seafood tartare, Chef Knilling marinates Alaskan king crab with olive oil, lime, salt, chives, and cayenne pepper. Sweet and sour marinated vegetables, including celery, carrot, and bell pepper, are topped with lime vinaigrette, pearls of Granny Smith apple, and herring caviar. 主厨 Matthias 的海鲜鞑靼以橄榄油、莱姆、盐、韭菜和辣椒粉腌制阿拉斯加帝王蟹，加上经腌渍的芹菜、红萝卜、青椒酱菜，味道酸中带甜，再搭配莱姆油醋酱、切成细片的澳洲青苹果和鲱鱼鱼子酱，口感和味道都非常清新。

To achieve the perfect texture in his Spanish octopus, Chef Knilling cooks it sous vide for three hours at a low temperature with lots of olive oil and garlic. He serves it with Japanese semidried tomatoes, tomato foam, fennel, orange vinaigrette, basil sponge, basil oil, chorizo oil, chick peas, and saffron mayonnaise. 为保存西班牙章鱼的最佳口感，主厨采用真空低温烹调法烹煮三小时，淋上大量橄榄油和大蒜，再配搭日本半干番茄、番茄细泡绵蛋糕、罗勒油、西班牙辣肠油、鹰嘴豆和番红花美乃滋就完成了。

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沫、茴香、柑橙油醋酱、罗勒海

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL MACAU

Inspired by but more complex than a Moscow Mule, Nik’s Legend of Kremlin is named for its star ingredient, Legend of Kremlin vodka. He combines it with bitters, pineapple, and calamansi juice, adds ginger for a hint of Asia, and serves it in a box with matryoshka dolls. 这款「Legend of Kremlin」调酒以克里姆林的传奇伏特加为主调，因而得此名，其灵感来自「A Moscow Mule」。 Nik 融合了苦啤酒、凤梨、酸柑果汁，再加入姜，使口感带有一丝亚洲风味。最后把调酒置于盒中与俄罗斯娃娃一同上桌。

The Big Wine Freak Sangria is a modern classic, definitely sangria, but with ingredients that are definitely unusual. The rum, infused with spices and berries, picks up tangy notes from balsamic vinegar and homemade cherry brandy and a touch of sweetness from vanilla syrup, malbec wine, and orange.

这款「The Big Wine Freak」桑格利亚酒堪称现代经典，展现桑格利亚酒的原始味道，所用的原料也相当特别：先将兰姆酒与香料、莓果相混，加上意大利传统香醋以取其浓烈风味，再加入些许自制樱桃白兰地，最后加上香草糖浆、马尔贝红酒和柑橙，整体口感又添一丝甜味。

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

创新月饼

the modern mooncake A Chinese classic gets a luxe makeover with premium cream from Candia Professionnel. SINCE LONG AGES PAST, mooncakes have been an essential part of Mid-Autumn Festival. Traditionally made with salted egg yolk, rich lotus seed filling, and sweet bean paste covered in a crispy pastry, this Chinese delicacy flies off shelves in the months leading up to the holiday, a symbol of union and harmony to be shared among loved ones.

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Over the years, the original mooncake has inspired countless modern interpretations, and it was only a matter of time before accomplished chefs began turning their creativity toward the classic. A perfect example is Ken Lee, owner and executive pastry chef at the Baking Channel, whose twenty-four-year career has

included posts at some of the top hotels in Hong Kong. Rather than simply another contemporary variation, Chef Lee’s is one with a story. After talking together, he and a visually impaired friend from Codekey Cookies, bakers of Braille biscuits, teamed up to create a starkly monochrome charcoal mooncake with vividly flavorful black sesame sweet-cream filling. “I hope this helps us bring the message,” says Chef Lee. “The visually impaired can also have ‘color’ in their world.” The ingredients required much thought. “In previous times,” he explains, “lard was an essential. But these days, we’re leaning toward healthier ingredients with more natural flavors.” Recently, Chef Lee demonstrated

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

his recipe at the Gaggenau showroom kitchen, using Grands Moulins de Paris Flour T45 to give his mooncakes a crispier texture. He chose Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream, in both the coating and filling, for its silky texture and unmistakably natural flavor. And because Candia Unsalted Butter is made by superior French methods, he finds the results more pleasing. “It doesn’t taste of artificial ingredients, and the body is heavier, which means better aroma and texture.” According to Chef Lee, “It’s all about the ingredients – the flavor of the finished pastries always reflects their quality.”

月饼的历史悠久，早已是中秋节不可或缺的要角之一。传统作法以咸蛋黄、大量莲蓉及豆沙为内馅，再以饼皮包覆。此一中式糕点从中秋节几个月前便开始热卖，可说一上架便销售一空。月饼代表团聚及和谐，通常和最爱的家人朋友分享。多年来，无数从传统月饼汲取灵感、自创的改良版月饼推出市面。许多知名大厨也会把心思花在月饼上，发挥独特的创意，代表之一便是「烘焙频道」拥有人兼行政糕点主厨 Ken Lee。他投身糕点界已有 24 年，曾于香港多家顶级酒店历练。比起一般只是加入现代元素改良传统月饼的作法，主厨的创作背后多了个值得细嚼的故事。有次和 Codekey Cookies 的视障友人聊天后，这位友人灵光一闪，主厨替友人实现和制作一个单色竹碳月饼，内馅则是香

味浓郁的金沙奶黄芝麻甜酱。他强调：「友人想大家知道，眼睛看不见的人，世界里也能有色彩。我帮助他们实现这个理念。」主厨花了许多时间构思食材，他说明：「过去绝对少不了猪油，但现在倾向使用健康食材，发挥天然的原味。」最近，主厨以 Gaggenau KI Cubus 展厅为舞台即场示范，运用 Grand Moulins de Paris T45 小麦面粉做出酥脆度升级的口感。他选用 Candia Professionnel 淡忌廉制作饼皮及内馅，创造出丝般滑顺口感及无可比拟的天然风味。另外，Candia 淡牛油比起等级较低的产品颜色偏淡，主厨认为可以让美感提升，他说：「这款法国牛油吃来没有任何人工成份，同时油体较重，香气及口感都更上一层楼。」主厨总结说：「成品的风味最能反映食材的品质，因此食材本身是最重要的一环。」 britain's bounty

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CHARCOAL MOONCAKE COATING

BLACK SESAME SWEET CREAM FILLING

ASSEMBLY

550 g Grands Moulins de Paris Flour T45 42 g charcoal powder 200 g Candia Unsalted Butter 110 g sugar 50 g whole egg 40 g custard powder 60 g Candia Professionel Whipping Cream 3.5 g coconut powder 40 g black sesame powder 0.3 g sea salt

20 g Grands Moulins de Paris Flour T45 32 g custard powder 20 g whole milk powder 3 g coconut powder 50 g sugar 30 g whole egg 120 g coconut milk 40 g condensed milk 10 g Candia Professionel Whipping Cream 15 g black sesame seeds 60 g Candia Unsalted Butter 4 pcs salty egg yolk

Roll coating into balls of 33 g each and cream filling into balls of 28 g each. Flatten balls of coating and place balls of cream filling inside, creating a rounded shape. Using either a traditional mooncake mold or a gas compressor mold, place pieces into slots and remove. Freeze for 1 hour, then bake at 260Â°C for 10 to 13 minutes. Allow to cool, brush egg yolk on top of each piece, and bake again for 4 to 6 minutes. After cooling, brush with golden syrup and bake once again for 2 to 3 minutes. Serve.

Mix flour and charcoal powder together and set aside. Whisk together butter, sugar, eggs, custard powder, Candia Professionel Whipping Cream, coconut powder, black sesame powder, and sea salt. Mix this combination with the previously prepared flour and charcoal powder to form a dough. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.

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Sift cake flour, then mix it with custard powder, whole milk powder, and coconut powder and set the mixture aside. Thoroughly mix together sugar, eggs, coconut milk, condensed milk, Candia Professionel Whipping Cream and black sesame seeds. Add melted Candia Unsalted Butter and chopped salty egg yolk. Combine the two mixtures, place in a vacuum bag, and cook in a steamer until done. Allow to cool.

DAVID HARTUNG (6)

PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

竹碳月饼皮

金沙奶黄芝麻馅

550克 Grands Moulins de Paris T45小麦面粉 42克竹碳粉 200克 Candia 淡牛油 110克糖 50克全蛋 40克卡士达粉 60克 Candia Professionel 淡忌廉 3.5克椰子粉 40克芝麻粉 0.3克海盐

20克 Grands Moulins de Paris T45小麦面粉 32克卡士达粉 20克全脂奶粉 3克椰子粉 50克糖 30克全蛋 120克椰奶 40克炼乳 10克 Candia Professionel 淡忌廉 15克黑芝麻 60克 Candia 淡牛油 4 块咸蛋黄

小麦面粉及竹碳粉混合均匀后先置于一旁。将牛油、糖、蛋、卡士达粉、Candia Professionel 淡忌廉、椰子粉、芝麻粉及海盐混合搅拌后加入一旁面粉及竹碳粉中和成面团，放入冰箱冷藏30分钟。

小麦面粉过筛后与卡士达粉、全脂奶粉及椰子粉混合置于一旁。将糖、蛋、椰奶、炼乳、Candia Professionel 淡忌廉及黑芝麻充分搅拌，已加热的Candia 淡牛油与已切块的咸蛋黄，混合后放入真空包放进蒸锅，煮熟后放凉。

制作月饼

把饼皮面团杆成多个各33克的小球，内馅也杆成各28克的小球。将各饼皮面团球杆平，放上内馅球，裹成圆形后放进传统月饼模或氣压模过压。移开后冷冻1小时，接着以260°C烤10至 13分钟，放凉后于每个月饼表面刷上蛋黄后再烤4至6分钟，再次放凉后刷上金黄糖浆过烤2至3分钟即可上桌。

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TASTING NEWS

street food stars All the flavors of Asia – from familiar to exotic – come together at the debut of a street-food extravaganza.

Keng Eng Kee Seafood Coffee Pork Ribs 琼荣记海鲜咖啡骨

COURTESY OF KENG ENG KEE SEAFOOD, CANDELNUT, HONG KONG SOYA SAUCE CHICKEN RICE & NOODLE, KOUGARYU

星级街头美食

MICHELIN-STAR DELICACIES at street-food prices? That’s exactly what’s coming to Studio City’s Macau Gourmet Walk from October 5 to 8. Admission is free each day from noon to 8:00 p.m. at the first edition of the Michelin Guide Street Food Festival Macau. Strolling through a setting that evokes the nostalgic look and feel of historic Macau, visitors to the Studio City Macau Gourmet Walk will have their pick of signature offerings and specially created event-exclusives from top Michelin-starred, Michelin-recommended, and Bib Gourmand-awarded venues all across Asia. The event, organized by Michelin Guide Hong Kong Macau and supported by Official Title Partner Melco Resorts & Entertainment, gathers top chefs from Singapore and Japan as well as from three of Studio City’s own acclaimed restaurants, Michelin-starred Pearl Dragon and Michelin-recommended Shanghai Magic and Bi Ying. Dining choices will feature all of Asia’s rich culinary variety, including Macau’s own hometown Chinese favorites, Japanese little eats, Nyonya specialties, and treats from Singapore’s hawker stalls. In fact, Chan Hon Meng, chef of the world’s first street-food stall to win a Michelin star, Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, will be flying in for the occasion. So will Wayne Liew of Keng Eng Kee, famous for his fusion of Hainanese and Malaysian-style Zi Char, as well as Gwern Khoo and Ben Tham of A Noodle Story. Also from Singapore will be the chefs of three Michelin-one-star restaurants: Malcolm Lee of Candlenut, the world’s first and only Michelin-starred Peranakan restaurant; Han Liguang of Labyrinth, a newcomer to the Michelin-star family in the Singapore Michelin Guide 2017; and Manjunath Mural of Song of India. From Japan will be Yoshihiro Tanaka of Kougaryu Honten, with his award-winning takoyaki, and Shiro Izawa, a pioneer of yakitori, from Tokyo’s Toritama. With small plates at the Michelin Guide Street Food Festival Macau starting at just MOP40, everyone can enjoy the food of the stars.

↑ Curry Noodles at Candlenut Candlenut 餐厅的咖喱面 ← Owner and Chef of Hong Kong Soy Sauce Chicken Rice 「香港油鸡饭面」档主和主厨陈翰铭

想以街头小吃的价钱品尝米其林等级的美食？ 10 月 5 日至 8 日，来到在澳门新濠影汇「澳门食街游」举行的首届「米其林指南港澳街头美食节」就可以了，活动时间为每日中午 12 时至晚上 8 时，免费入场。走在别具澳门历史及怀旧色彩的「澳门食街游」，可品尝来自亚洲各地米其林星级餐厅、米其林美食推荐及荣获米其林超值餐厅奖的佳肴。有些更是本次活动的独家菜式，车胎人的美食推荐绝对不能错过！由官方冠名合作伙伴新濠博亚娱乐全力支持，首届「米其林指南港澳街头美食节」由《米其林指南港澳》与 Robert

Parker Wine Advocate 携手举办。厨师来自新加坡、日本及新濠影汇的三家著名餐馆：米其林一星粤菜「玥珑轩」、米其林推荐餐厅「上海魅影」和「碧迎居」。亚洲风味美食选择丰

↙

富，包括：经典澳门中式料理、日本精致小吃、娘惹特色小菜、

Takoyaki with Regular Sauce from Kougaryu

新加坡著名小吃摊等，应有尽有。史上首间荣获米其林一星

田中由弘师傅的章鱼烧配酱汁

殊荣的小吃摊「香港油鸡饭面」主厨陈翰铭将由新加坡远道而来。以融合海南菜和马来家常煮炒 (Zi Char) 风味闻名的「琼荣记海鲜」大厨刘健伟，以及「超好面」的邱松铭和谭晏桦大厨也会到场分享星级美食。来自新加坡的名厨则有史上唯一荣获米其林星星的娘惹菜餐厅 Candlenut 的 Malcolm Lee、在最新出炉的《米其林指南新加坡 2017》中荣获米其林一星的 Labyrinth 餐厅的 Han Liguang 和 Song of India 餐厅的 Manjunath Mural，他们将带来让人回味的独特料理。日本章鱼烧名店「甲贺流本店」主厨田中由弘，还有以风味串烧闻名，来自东京的「酉玉」的大厨 Shiro Izawa 也会亲临现场，带来获奖无数的美食。在「米其林指南港澳街头美食节」，每道星级美食只要澳门币 40 元起，让访客以实惠的价格享受星级美馔，亲尝多位名厨的招牌美食。 britain's bounty

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秘境乐园

private eden THE FLIGHT BY SEAPLANE north from Malé, capital city of the Maldives, takes forty minutes across the limitless aquamarine expanse of the Arabian Sea to a remote atoll known as Noonu. Seveny-one little islands rimmed with glistening white sand – most of them completely uninhabited – are strewn over the waters like an extravagant handful of pearls and sheltered from the sea by an embracing ring of coral. The surreal beauty of the setting from the air is only the first indication that Cheval Blanc Randheli is not so much a place as it is an experience. Taking its name from the renowned wine château of Bordeaux, Cheval Blanc Randheli artfully blends the famous French flair for high style, fine food, and gracious service with authentic elements of indigenous Maldivian culture and a deep regard for the resort’s pristine natural environment. It was designed in collaboration with award-winning French-Belgian architect Jean-Michel Gathy to create a perfect harmony with the island’s landscape, its lush tropical growth, and its unbounded views of sky and sea.

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MARK HAMMONS

Tranquil solitude meets flawless hospitality on the tropical island retreat of Cheval Blanc Randheli.

Searching for dolphins in the endless Indian Ocean 在无尽的印度洋寻找海豚

DESTINATION

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DESTINATION

“ Art de Recevoir, the art of hospitality, is the name Cheval Blanc Randheli gives to its philosophy of service, service that is designed to anticipate the needs and desires of every guest.

A thatch fishing hut near the spa floats on a glowing green sea 水疗区旁有一间茅屋在碧绿的大海上飘浮着

Art de Recevoir, the art of hospitality, is the name Cheval Blanc Randheli gives to its philosophy of service, service that is designed to anticipate the needs and desires of every guest. Upon arrival, a Majordome welcomes guests and looks after the smallest details of their comfort. Alchemists suggest custom-designed arrays of activities, from underwater exploration of the reef ’s colorful sea life to sailing the lagoon in a dhoni, the traditional wooden fishing boat of the Maldives.

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Guest accommodations take the form of elegant villas that successfully complement such traditional local features as steeply pitched thatched roofs with the sleek materials and clean lines of contemporary design. Also in perfect balance is attention to the needs of guests for both privacy and a sense of spaciousness. Lofty ceilings in the Island Villas are paired with equally lofty doors that can be closed to partition the spaces into intimate interior environments. The Water Villas and

Lagoon Villas, approached by private wooden pontoons, are gracefully poised above the waters on traditional Maldivian stilts. Their twelve-meter infinity pools lead straight on to terraces with endless views over the lagoon or the Indian Ocean. The Garden Water Villas and Lagoon Garden Villas add verdant private gardens for the ultimate in secluded luxury. The villas’ chic contemporary furnishings emphasize the materials of the region: teak, rattan, bamboo, mother-of-pearl, coconut shell. A neutral palette of white, taupe, and oyster grey is accented with signature touches of vivid green and yellow. Original artwork is everywhere, including forty-six of the sculptural “color spots” for which Paris artist Vincent Beaurin is well known. Food and drink are also considered art forms at Cheval Blanc Randheli. The resort has three bars and five restaurants, ranging from informal al fresco venues to the culinary heights of Le 1947, named for the most highly prized vintage of Château Cheval Blanc. Each week, Executive Chef Sébastien Le Gall creates an original nine-course tasting menu based on the best available ingredients and inspired by classic French and regional Maldivian influences. Despite considerable logistical challenges in bringing the required ingredients to the island each week, the final presentation is at once flawless and seemingly effortless, an epicurean experience equal to that found in the world’s cosmopolitan hubs. But rather than coming out afterward onto a crowded street, one finds white sand beaches, luminescent seas, and a dark sky full of stars.

MARK HAMMONS (2)

Art de Recevoir, 法文「接待的艺术」，是白马庄园服务顾客的宗旨，旨在完善照顾每位顾客的需求与渴望。“

At night, the island brims with magic and mystery 晚上，岛上充满着魔力和神秘感

从马尔代夫首都马累 (Malé) 北面搭乘水上飞机，约四十分钟的航程，横跨一望无际的碧绿阿拉伯海，即可抵达僻静的诺鲁 (Noonu) 环礁。七十一座多数为无人居住的小岛，被闪亮的白沙环绕，散落在碧绿的海水上，像极了将一大把珍珠豪迈地撒在海上，小岛均有环礁紧紧包围，隔绝外界的海水。然而，从飞机上向下看，如画一般的景色仅仅是给游客的第一个视觉惊喜：与其形容白马庄园是一个景点，应该说是一场美妙的体验。取名自著名的波尔多酒酒庄，白马庄园巧妙地融合法式品味的高格调、美食及亲切服务，并尊重固有的马尔代夫文化与园内原始天然环境。庄园由获奖无数的比利时裔法国建筑师 Jean-Michel Gathy 操刀设计，将自然景观、葱郁的热带植栽及辽阔的海天景色完美融合，带来最和谐的共鸣。 Art de Recevoir，法文「接待的艺术」，是白马庄园服务顾客的宗旨，旨在完善照

顾每位顾客的需求与渴望。宾客一抵达，男管家便盛情招呼并谨慎注重每个细节，只求顾客有最舒适的感受。旅游顾问为顾客设计最深入当地的游玩清单，从海底世界探索珊瑚礁多采多姿的生态，到乘坐马尔代夫传统木制渔船「多尼船」游览泻湖等活动，任君选择。庄园别墅的外观高雅，融合传统茅草斜屋顶与光滑材质和俐落线条的现代设计，除此之外也兼顾顾客需求，在隐密性及开放性中取得良好平衡。别墅挑高的天花板，配合可随意关闭的与天花板等高的门，隔出私人的室内空间。用私人木桥相连的水上别墅和泻湖别墅，都借着传统马尔地夫木桩，优雅地座落在水上，且别墅中十二米的无边际游泳池连接露台，无尽的泻湖与印度洋美景皆可尽收眼底。水上花园别墅及泻湖花园别墅另配有苍翠的私人花园，让顾客在静僻中享受极致奢华。别墅内精致的现代家具着重使用在地材料，以柚木、藤蔓、竹子、贝壳及椰壳

制成，就像干净调色盘上的白色、褐色与牡蛎灰色以鲜活的绿色和黄色做点缀。而原创艺术在庄园内也处处可见，巴黎艺术家 Vincent Beaurin 著名的四十六座雕塑作品散布在园内，更为调色盘添增不少色彩。白马庄园的饮食也被视为艺术的展现。园内有三个酒吧及五间餐厅，其形式从露天餐厅到高级餐厅等应有尽有，其中最顶级的 Le 1947 餐厅，其店名便是以白马酒庄 (Château Cheval Blanc) 中拥有最高殊荣的葡萄酒命名而来。每个礼拜，行政主厨 Sébastien Le Gall 运用顶级食材及深受经典法式及马尔代夫当地风情启发，设计出九道原创主厨套餐。尽管珍贵食材每周运送到岛上相当具挑战性，端出的美食却完美到让人以为一切轻而易举。如此享受的体验或许在许多国际大都会中找得到，但享用完餐点走出餐厅，迎接你的并非一条水泄不通的街道，而是洁白的沙滩、闪烁着月光的大海及满天星斗的夜空。 britain's bounty

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CHAMPAGNE

亮丽登场

sparkling debut

NICOLAS FEUILLATTE CHAMPAGNES (2)

France’s favorite Champagne makes a splash on the local scene.

SUCCESSFULLY LAUNCHING a product into a competitive market requires perfect timing as well as a profound knowledge of complex local factors. Frank Protin, export area manager in Hong Kong and Macau for acclaimed Nicolas Feuillatte Champagnes, firmly believes he now scores on both counts. For one thing, he’s taken careful note of the recently rising sophistication among Champagne drinkers in the region: “The knowledge level is impressive.” Although Nicolas Feuillatte, at fortyone, may be the youngest of France’s major Champagne houses, it has nonetheless chalked up a stream of remarkable achievements. “It’s now the number one brand in France,” Protin boasts, “and number three globally, with an international presence in over ninety countries.” What allows the winemaker to produce Champagnes of such wide appeal and exceptional quality, Protin maintains, is that the majority of its handpicked grapes from across the Champagne region are grown in vineyards classified Grand cru and Premier cru. The ideal partner in the local launch is Omtis Fine Wines, with market knowledge of the sector second to none. As Asia’s leading source of fine wines for connoisseurs, collectors, and investors, Omtis is now the exclusive regional agent for Nicolas Feuillatte Champagnes. “We handle investment-grade wines,” says Philippe Bera, COO of Omtis Ltd. “We’ve been

Havesting by hand ensures the ultimate in grape quality. 人手采收葡萄能确保收成的每颗葡萄都在最佳状态。

想成功进军敌手环伺的竞争市场，有两大关键要素：完美进场时机，以及对于繁杂区位要素的通盘了解。备受推崇的香槟品牌 Nicolas Feuillatte 的香港及澳门地区出口经理 Frank Protin 便是掌握这两个诀窍的翘楚。他观察到港澳地区香槟爱好者品味近年不断提升，他表示：「他们的知识水平之高令人印象深刻。」历史仅有 41 年的 Nicolas Feuillatte 相较法国其他老牌香槟厂可能年纪尚轻，却在短短时间内创下许多辉煌成就。 Frank 自豪表示：「Nicolas Feuillatte 目前是法国第一香槟品牌，全球排行第三，出口至九十多个国家。」香槟如何达到雅俗共赏，品质超凡的境界？ Frank 说明，绝大部分葡萄出自法国香槟区特级及一级葡萄园，全人工采收，没有例外。安天时酒库 (Omtis Fine Wines) 可说是 Nicolas Feuillatte 这次进军港澳市场最

理想的伙伴，对于葡萄酒的认识在业界无出其右。安天时为亚洲酒类鉴赏家、收藏家及投资者提供一等一的葡萄酒来源，目前也是 Nicolas Feuillatte 港澳地区的独家代理商。营运总监 Philippe Bera 指出：「我们经手的都是深具投资价值的顶级葡萄酒，一直以来也不断寻找足以改变市场生态的好酒，Nicolas Feuillatte 绝对有此潜力。」Philippe 及 Frank 两人特别强调双方「实质合作」的重要性，Philippe 说明：「我们希望和伙伴迸出合作的火花，也就是安天时选择只代理少数顶级品牌的原因。」首批于港澳亮相的严选香槟包括 Brut Réserve NV、Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008、 Palmes d’Or Brut 2006 及 Palmes d’Or Rosé 2006。Frank 以摩登却又不会高高在上来形容自家香槟，强调品牌了解客人想要的是什么。Nicolas Feuillatte 相信香槟不应局限于特殊场合才能享用，此一品牌哲学 britain's bounty

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CHAMPAGNE

Nicolas Feuillatte sources from Champagne’s finest vineyards, including thirteen Grand crus and thirty-three Premier crus.

NICOLAS FEUILLATTE CHAMPAGNES (2)

制作Nicolas Feuillatte香槟的葡萄均精选自法国香槟区最好的葡萄园，包括13个特级及33个一级葡萄园。

looking for a landscape-changer for the local market, and we believe NF Champagnes are it.” Bera and Protin stress the importance of “real synergy” between the firms. “Having things click is a big deal for us,” says Bera. “We intentionally are agents for only a small number of quality brands.” Included in the debut are Brut Réserve NV, Brut Blanc de Blancs 2008, Palmes d’Or Brut 2006, and Palmes d’Or Rosé 2006. “Nicolas Feuillatte is modern and approachable, and we understand consumers,” says Protin. The company’s philosophy is that Champagne need not be reserved for special occasions, and its best seller, Brut Reserve NV (40 percent pinot noir, 40 percent pinot meunier, 20 percent chardonnay) deliciously demonstrates this house style. Aged a minimum of three years, it is an accessible, structured, fruity wine that can be enjoyed any time of day. The Blanc de Blancs, on the other hand, is a refined wine aged for more than eight years, with a thin bubble, notes of white flower on the nose, citrus and pear aromas, and a charmingly light finish. And for something truly unique, there’s “the diva of Champagnes,” the prestige cuvée

of the collection, Palmes d’Or, including the vintage Rosé. Made from 100 percent pinot noir by the skin-contact process and aged for a minimum of five years, its gorgeous color is matched by its complexity – red fruits, blood orange, fig, sweet spice, creme de cassis – and a lingering full finish. Both Palmes d’Or Champagnes, which Bera refers to as “investment grade,” have a limited production: fifteen thousand bottles of the Rosé and thirty thousand of the Brut, which is made from 98 percent Grand cru vineyard grapes in equal proportions of chardonnay and pinot noir and is aged over ten years. The distinct bottle design pays homage to a woman Nicolas Feuillatte is said to have once loved, a singer known for her voluptuous figure decked in black pearls. For the best enjoyment of any of the house’s products, Protin recommends a white wine glass over a flute: “It allows you to fully enjoy the aromas.” Nicolas Feuillatte Champagnes are now available regionally at fine wine retailers, five-star hotels, and leading restaurants, including Mott 32, Seasons by Oliver Elzer, and The Peninsula Hong Kong.

透过旗下最畅销的 Brut Reserve NV (40% 黑皮诺、40% 皮诺莫尼耶及 20% 夏多内混酿 ) 展露无遗。此一甘醇美酒经最短三年熟成，非常容易入口，酒体平衡，同时带着水果香味，不管何时何地均可尽情享用。 The Blanc de Blancs 则是熟成期超过八年之顶级佳酿－泡沫较薄，闻起来带白花气息，入口则散发柑橘及梨子芳香，后韵轻盈，相当迷人。若要寻求独一无二的特殊风味，则非香槟天后－顶级系列 Palmes d’Or 香槟及粉红香槟莫属。百分之百黑皮诺葡萄浸皮处理，最短五年熟成后，诱人的色泽和深邃的味道相辅相成－红色水果、血橙、无花果、甜香料及黑醋栗甜酒，造就萦绕舌尖久久不去的丰厚后韵。 Palmes d’Or 香槟及粉红香槟，就是 Philippe 所谓的投资等级佳酿，它们均是限量发售（粉红香槟 15,000 瓶，Brut 3 万瓶）， 98% 使用特级园所产葡萄，以夏多内及黑皮诺等比例混酿，熟成期最短十年。独特的瓶身设计以创办人 Nicolas Feuillatte 深爱过的女性为灵感，据说是位婀娜多姿、穿戴黑珍珠的女伶。享用 Nicolas Feuillatte 各酒品时， Frank 推荐笛型白酒杯效果最好，他说：「可以让你完全沉浸在香槟的芳香当中。」 Nicolas Feuillatte 现正于限定的酒商据点，五星级酒店及 Mott 32、Seasons by Oliver Elzer 及香港半岛酒店等顶级餐厅供应及贩售。 britain's bounty

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升华奥地利

austria ascending In the heart of Europe, Robert Burkley learns how old traditions are adopting new ways to woo the world’s lovers of wine.

Schloss Gobelsburg’s eighteenth-century cellars Schloss Gobelsburg 酒庄建于18世纪的酒窖

“WE ALWAYS KNEW that we had great wines

– how can we make others believe it?” In one breath, Willi Klinger professes the credo and mission of Austrian Wine Summit 2017, a four-day event held in early May across the country’s major producing regions. The Austrian Wine Marketing Board’s ebullient managing director has consented, in the midst of a manic schedule, to an interview in a quiet corner of restaurant Steirereck, the two-Michelin-star apex of modern Vienna style nestled in a sylvan city park.

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Earlier that morning, there’s already energy in the air as buzzing busloads of wine journalists invited from around the world arrive at the restaurant to perfect springtime weather. Separated throughout the summit into four touring groups, they reunite, excitedly comparing notes and posing for pictures on the event’s last day. All are anticipating what will prove to be the most lighthearted – and enlightening – part of the week: a brilliant blind tasting in the form of a guessing game followed by

three luxurious courses paired with the best of Austrian wines, all in Steirereck’s elegant surroundings. Klinger’s goal in the tasting is to show what today’s Austrian winemakers can do. “The change in the last forty years is worldwide,” he says. “Austria was definitely part of a change more dramatic than in the thousand years before. Our flagship grüner veltliner, which is a third of the country’s production, has gone from easy-quaffing to an internationally renowned, important white wine. And from 1985 on, the new Austrian red wine culture spread with two signature grapes, blaufränkisch and zweigelt. But there’s pinot noir, and there’s also a hidden gem in the south of Austria, Styria, a sauvignon stronghold.” During the seated blind tasting, a selection from among the world’s fine wines is presented in nine flights – each including a standout Austrian example. But which is which, and what is what? With the aid of apt questions, pertinent commentary, and witty asides from Klinger and his cohorts, tasters fill out cards and keep score on the honor system. The biggest experts in the room, though often right, get fooled like the rest. And no matter what anybody’s final tally, Klinger wins the game by proving to everyone that Austrian wines can do far better than hold their own. The summit had opened on Monday evening with a glamorous black-tie dinner marking the start of the Best Sommelier of Europe and Africa competition. In the stately Schönbrunn Palace orangery, where Mozart and Salieri once competed, each table is hosted by an Austrian winegrower. Ours is Martin Mittelbach, owner of Weingut Tergenseerhof in Wachau, the region that produces some of Austria’s most refined whites from native grüner veltliner and riesling grapes. “The original facilities were built in 1176,” he says, “and Wachau Valley is famous for steep terraces built more than a thousand years ago next to the Danube. Cold forest air and warmer air from the Pannonic Plain converge and contribute

LEHMANN HERBERT (2)

WINE

Vincent Bründlmayer is among growers who host a tasting of Kamptal’s whites. Vincent Bründlmayer是主办坎普河区白品鉴的酿酒人之一。

奥地利葡萄酒销售管理局行销总监 Willi Klinger 说道：「我们很清楚我们的酒品质不凡，但要怎么让别人相信这个事实？」他宣示着这是他在五月初举行的为期四天、横跨全国主要葡萄酒产区的 2017 奥地利葡萄酒峰会的信条和任务。他在百忙之中来到位于市立森林公园旁，一家拥有米其林两星、极致展现维也纳现代风格的餐厅「Steirereck」接受访问。当天一早，已能在空气中感受到满满活力，受邀自全世界的葡萄酒记者接踵而至来到餐厅，让这个春日气候显得格外美

好。整个峰会分成四个团队，活动最后一天参加者齐聚一堂，兴高采烈地分享彼此的笔记，并摆出各种姿势照相留念。所有人引颈期盼的是本周最轻松愉快，且最具启发性的重头戏：品尝三道奢华菜式和顶级奥地利美酒后，在「Steirereck」餐厅优雅的环境中进行盲饮猜谜活动。 Willi 的活动目的是让宾客透过品酒体验奥地利酿酒师的技术水平。他表示：「过去 40 年间的变化是全球性的。相较于几千年前，奥地利在这段期间绝对是改变得最剧烈的。我们旗下的绿维特利纳 (grüner

veltliner) 葡萄占奥地利国内生产毛额的三分之一，从原本被拿来豪饮的酒种摇身一变成为国际知名的白葡萄酒。从 1985 年开始，新崛起的奥地利红酒文化，随着两种代表性的红葡萄蓝弗朗克 (blaufränkisch) 和茨威格 (zweigelt) 而声名远播。但我们还有黑皮诺 (pinot noir)，也有来自奥地利南部的史泰尔地区，是鲜为人知的长相思 (sauvignon) 重镇。」透过盲饮，一系列挑选自全球最好的酒将分做九组，每组都有一支凸显奥地利风格的酒。但究竟那个是哪个？借助现场 britain's bounty

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to the aromas in the grapes. Our wines have their own personality – elegant structure, rich finesse, full of spirit.” On Tuesday’s bus tour, rain prevents an afternoon vineyard visit. Proceedings move to a local vinothek, or tasting room, where producers have set up tables of their Kamptal-region single-vineyard whites. Weingut Hirsch, which exemplifies Austria’s growing trend toward organic certification, is represented by Sandra Hirsch. “Today, all of our vineyards are cultivated biodynamically, and we prune the vines by the Simonit & Sirch method,” she says, referring to a gentle system that promotes healthy, natural branching of the plants. Vincent Bründlmayer of certified-sustainable Weingut Bründlmayer presents his highly regarded Vincent’s Spiegel Grüner Veltliner 2015, of which three thousand bottles were produced from what his notes term a “wonderful vintage.” Asked his personal preference, he decides, “My favorite everyday wine is the Berg Vogelsgang, a grüner

veltliner planted on primary-rock soil, bonedry and very refreshing.” The group travels on to Wagram, a region known for its full-bodied wines from loessy soil. Celebrity chef Toni Mörwald first hosts an elaborate contemporary dinner menu of six courses accompanied by a dozen notable Wagram wines and then puts us up at his swank hotel. In the morning, ominous smoke smothers the landscape on the way to nearby Kirchberg. A potentially devastating late frost that has already done harm in France has had growers out all night lighting straw fires to protect the fruit. Arriving at vinothek Wagram Weritas for a seated vertical tasting of grüner veltliners and roter veltliners, we learn from presenter Thomas Schuster that damage could amount to 10 percent of the harvest. As one of the younger generation of Austrian winemakers, Schuster stays on top of the trends. “We focus on longer skin contact before pressing the grapes and also whole-cluster pressing. There will be more single-vineyard wines and

“Austria Against the Rest of the World,” a blind-tasting guessing game 重头戏「奥地利挑战全世界」盲饮猜谜

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also new methods like skin-fermented and pét-nat,” he predicts, referring to currently fashionable “orange” and natural sparkling wines. In the afternoon, we go south, crossing the Danube to the remains of the ancient Roman city of Carnuntum. During his threeyear stay, Marcus Aurelius no doubt savored its wines. Today the region is a prime one for structured Austrian reds based largely on zweigelt and blaufränkisch grapes. We explore them in depth at a six-flight seated tasting in Göttlesbrunn. Presenter Philipp Grassl, one of the region’s forty-some growers, is the first in his family’s long winemaking heritage to take things to a higher level. “We found out that we’re in a very special position here,” he explains, “warm enough to produce powerful reds but with cooler nights that preserve freshness and structure. It’s all based on the chalky and limestone sediments of the ancient sea and the gravel deposited by the Danube.” Those qualities were evident in his 2011 Grassl Zweigelt Schüttenberg. “The Schüttenberg vineyard is most influenced by limestone and gravel. With the very old zweigelt vines, we get a unique impression of this grape, ripe and dark-berried with structure and tension hardly seen with this ‘soft’ variety.” Back in Vienna, Thursday evening brings the sommelier competition finals at a blacktie dinner gala, replete with top Austrian wines. An exciting win for Latvia and partying that trails off into the night brings the summit to a finish. But in our interview earlier in the day, Klinger is already sizing up an auspicious future. “It’s a very manual, family-driven wine industry,” he admits, “with small estates compared to the international average. We can only sell where a knowledgeable human being – a sommelier or a good retailer or a good writer – leads you to the pleasures of Austrian wine. We try to put our great Austrian wines on the lists of the famous restaurants, and I think more and more people in the world are ready.”

ANNA STÖCHER (2)

WINE

提问，相关解说，还有 Willi 与其团队的诙谐幽默的打趣，品酒的宾客以不记名方式客观地填写卡片和评分。在别处往往百发百中的专家，在这里也像其他人一样被搞混。不论大家的答案正确与否，Willi 绝对是这场游戏的最大赢家，因为他已向在场所有人证明奥地利酒的光芒，远比现在大家所知的更出色。葡萄酒峰会在星期一晚上以华丽的晚宴揭开序幕，会上还宣布欧非大陆最佳侍酒师竞赛正式开赛。晚宴在莫札特和萨里耶利曾一较高下的美泉宫橘圆殿举行，每一桌都有一位奥地利酿酒师随侍在侧。在我们这一桌的是 Martin Mittelbach，瓦豪区 Weingut Tergenseerhof 酒庄负责人，此区出产许多奥地利最精致的白酒，使用的是在地绿维特利纳和雷司令 (riesling) 葡萄等。他说：「设备最早是于 1176 年所建造，而瓦豪河谷区最具代表性的就是多瑙河岸边，建造已超过千年的陡峭梯田。潘诺尼亚平原的暖空气与森林的冷空气汇集，造就了葡萄的香气。我们的酒拥有独特性格－层次优雅，空灵轻巧，精神饱满。」星期二我们乘着大巴出游，但下午的酒庄参访因大雨取消。活动随即移到当地的一座酒窖兼品酒室，贵宾到来时酿酒师早已准备好一桌来自坎普河区的单一园白酒。由 Sandra Hirsch 代表的 Weingut Hirsch 酒庄，是奥地利追求有机认证的最佳典范。她介绍道：「如今我们酒庄里所有作物都是有机种植，且我们以 Simonit & Sirch 这种兼顾健康和天然的轻柔修剪作法，以保护葡萄枝为前提来修剪葡萄藤。」获得可持续经营认证的 Weingut Bründlmayer 酒庄的 Vincent Bründlmayer，发表其极为重视的 2015 年 Vincent’s Spiegel Grüner Veltliner 葡萄酒，三千瓶酒来自记录号称「完美年份」的葡萄酿造而成。如果问到他个人最喜欢的，他思考半晌，「我最喜欢的日常饮用酒非 Berg Vogelsgang 莫属，一种从原生岩石土壤中长成的绿维特利纳，绝干且清新。」我们来到瓦格蓝，此区以黄土土壤出产酒体浓郁的酒款而闻名。名厨 Toni Mörwald 精心准备六道菜的晚宴套餐，搭配 12 支知名瓦格蓝葡萄酒，然后主厨安排我们入住其瑰丽高雅的饭店。在清晨，前往邻近城市蒂罗尔州基希贝格的路途烟雾缭绕。

Willi Klinger heads the Austrian Wine Marketing Board. Willi Klinger，奥地利葡萄酒销售管理局行销总监

一场迟来的降霜在法国酿成植灾，让葡萄果农不得不整晚点起篝火来保护果实。我们到达 Weritas 酒窖享受绿维特利纳和红维特利纳 (roter veltliner) 的垂直品鉴，我们从代表 Thomas Schuster 口中得知植灾损害了将近十分之一的收成。身为奥地利年轻一代的酿酒师之一，Thomas 始终走在潮流最前端。提到最近非常流行的「橘」酒和天然气泡酒，他预测：「在挤压葡萄和用整串葡萄榨汁之前，我们着重更长时间的表皮接触。之后会开发更多单一酿造酒技术和诸如表皮发酵和自然起泡等新技术。」下午我们往南部出发，穿越多瑙河来到古罗马遗迹城市卡农顿。Marcus Aurelius 居住在此的三年间，他无疑尝遍了这区域所有的酒。如今这个地区以产量丰厚的奥地利红酒独步全国，这款酒主要由茨威格和蓝弗朗克葡萄酿成。我们藉在格特勒施布伦品鉴六组酒品，更深入了解其背后的故事。 Philipp Grassl 代表是这个地区四十几位葡萄农之一，也是家族中第一个将酿酒提高到另一个层次的人。他解释：「我们发

现这里的地理位置非常特殊。这里够温暖，能产出味道浓烈的红葡萄，但夜晚的凉爽却能维持葡萄的新鲜和结构。这要归功于古老海岸的白圭岩和结晶石灰岩的沉淀物，还有多瑙河保存的这些石砾。」葡萄的优良品质完美展现在他的 2011 年 Grassl Zweigelt Schüttenberg 葡萄酒。「Schüttenberg 酒庄的酒深受石灰岩和石砾影响。透过年份较久的茨威格葡萄藤，我们对这种葡萄有独特的印象，成熟且果实累累，富有结构和张力，鲜有『温醇』之感。」回到维也纳，数名进入决赛的侍酒师，以顶级奥地利酒在星期四的晚宴上隆重登场比赛。拉脱维亚侍酒师脱颖而出，庆祝派对热烈展开直到夜深，峰会接近尾声。然而在稍早的访谈时，Willi 早刻划出一片大好前景。他承认：「与国际相较，奥地利的酿酒事业以亲力亲为、家族经营的小庄园为主。我们只能卖酒给懂我们的客人－也许是一位侍酒师，或是一位识货的零售商，甚至是一位作家，为的就是让客人领略奥地利酒的美好。我们将在餐厅酒单上加入最高品质的奥地利酒，相信会有越来越多人跃跃欲试。」 britain's bounty

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资深威士忌迷

fostering seasoned fans Two global ambassadors for Scotch whisky are sweeping rules and stereotypes away.

EVERYONE KNOWS the image of a whisky connoisseur: a distinguished older gentleman in tweeds sits in a worn leather armchair before a crackling fire, listening to Sinatra and sipping Scotch neat from a tumbler. “I don’t do any of those things. At all,” says Ervin Trykowski, Global Ambassador for The Singleton Single Malt Whisky. Not any, that is, except drinking the whisky itself. He’s dressed black on black, and one gets the sense that he’s itching to take off the jacket and roll up sleeves covering an array of tattoos. On the other hand, Ewan Gunn, who is Diageo Global Scotch Whisky Master and is often alluded to as the “James Bond of whisky,” has been known to sport tweed on occasion, although he stresses that it’s strictly a matter of fashion choice and not of conformity to type. The two men’s divergent styles are indicative of the change in the industry’s approach toward whisky appreciation. And if it were up to them, they’d banish terms like whisky connoisseur and whisky enthusiast. “They create barriers and a feeling of elitism,” says Trykowski. Instead, he and Gunn have coined a better term: seasoned whisky fans. And, recommends Gunn, forget all the GQ and Esquire articles teaching rules on

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“ It should be one sentence: ‘Drink your whisky however the hell you want it.’ It’s as simple as that. 只要一句话：『你想怎么喝，就怎么喝。』就这么简单。” EWAN GUNN, DIAGEO GLOBAL SCOTCH WHISKY MASTER

how to drink whisky. “It doesn’t need a whole article,” he says. “It should be one sentence: ‘Drink your whisky however the hell you want it.’ It’s as simple as that.” Nosing and drinking Scotch with a splash of water is a great way to analyze a whisky and pick out every fine nuance in it. A Friday night out with friends may well be bettered by a Scotch on the rocks. Hot and humid Hong Kong may call for a tall and refreshingly cold variation. “However you want it,” Trykowski reiterates. “It will change with the environment. It changes with the people you’re with, the food you eat, or the mood you’re in.” In fact, one of Trykowski’s favorite ways

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to drink Scotch is with coconut water, a massively popular pairing in the Caribbean. Both he and Gunn, in their international ambassadorial travels, have witnessed a growing global affinity for Scotch and have encountered some unexpected pairings with local flavors: Scotch mixed with green tea in Asia, with cocoa powder in Latin America, and with cola in Europe. “We see markets take a Scotch, embrace it, and make it their own in a unique way,” says Gunn. “And that’s brilliant!” Adds Trykowski, “We’re going with the attitude that we want to bring more people into the Scotch whisky category. So whatever time of day or however they want to

drink it, we want to make it accessible.” He references The Singleton & Soda as a long and fresh cocktail that tones down some of the whisky’s strength while opening up its flavor. Based on a light and fruity spirit designed to bring newcomers on board with single-malt whiskies, the cocktail’s easy-to-make nature also grants a sense of ownership over the serve. Switch out The Singleton expression, change the soda brand, add a dash of bitters and/or a fruit garnish, and the results will be entirely different drinks, fruitier with Glen Ord, spicier with Glendullan, and nuttier with Dufftown.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

一提到威士忌大使，人们脑中浮现的形象不外乎一位事业有成的年长男士穿着软呢装，坐在火炉边陈旧的皮椅上，听着 Frank Sinatra 的老歌，拿起平底玻璃杯啜饮一口纯威士忌。「我从不做这些事。」The Singleton 全球单一麦芽威士忌大使 Ervin Trykowski 如是说。即使喝着威士忌，他也从不符合这些刻板印象。Ervin 身着黑衬衫配黑西装外套，却让人觉得他迫不及待想把外套脱掉，举起袖子，秀出一臂的刺青。而另一位，被称为「威士忌界詹姆斯庞德」的 Diageo 苏格兰威士忌大师 Ewan Gunn，则是偶尔换上猎装绒运动衫。他强调这是追求时尚，而非刻意塑造某种形象。

两位男士迥异的风格暗示着威士忌产业有了新的走向，他们甚至想舍弃「威士忌大师」或「威士忌达人」这样的用词。 Ervin 说：「这些头衔听起来很精英主义，让人觉得有距离。」因此 Ervin 和 Ewan 两人创造了一个更名符其实的称号：「资深威士忌迷」。Ewan 建议威士忌的爱好者别去读 GQ 或 Esquire 杂志上教你怎么喝威士忌的文章。「这件事根本不用长篇大论，只要一句话：『你想怎么喝，就怎么喝。』就这么简单。」他说道。加点水再品尝威士忌，是品评各种威士忌特色和细微差异的好方法。三五好友一同放松，配上一杯加入冰块的威士忌，让人倍感身心舒畅。香港气候湿热，一杯

清凉消暑的威士忌特调再适合不过。Ervin 再次强调：「想怎么喝威士忌就怎么喝。在不同的地方、和不同的人、搭配不同的食物和不同的心情，就有不同的喝法。」 Ervin 个人最爱的喝法是威士忌搭配椰子水，这样的组合在加勒比海地区十分流行。两位威士忌大使在巡回世界各地时，都发现人们对威士忌的爱好与日俱增，并和当地口味结合：在亚洲搭配绿茶，在拉丁美洲搭配可可粉，在欧洲则加入可乐。 Ewan 说：「我们看见各地的市场开始接受苏格兰威士忌，不仅爱不释手，更创造出专属的新滋味。这样真的很棒！」 Ervin 也表示：「我们秉持让更多人接触苏格兰威士忌的初衷，不管他们想在什 britain's bounty

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As a former bartender himself, Trykowski revels in the creative ways that the profession is now approaching the whisky cocktail and pushing at the boundaries. “Look what we’re sitting at!” he says, gesturing toward the two “rivers” of whisky that are aged in and served from a seven-ton oak tree trunk brought from London whisky bar Black Rock to embellish Frank’s Library at Foxglove. With more than a hundred and fifty distilleries producing their own unique expressions of single malt whisky, the inspiration points for creating new cocktails are endless. Trykowski opens a bottle of The Singleton of Glen Ord 12 Years Old and inhales the aroma. “This one’s easy. Big reds and black fruit, leathers and rich spices. But to me, there’s always this amazing note,” he remarks, referring to what he says reminds him of the blackcurrant-based drink Ribena. Boiled down into a syrup and combined with the Scotch, it would, he judges, make a cracking Old Fashioned. Still, one can’t overlook the simple purist way of savoring a whisky: neat. “We never lose sight of the fact that many people do love to delve deep into the heritage and will happily spend three hours nosing a Scotch whisky before finally having a taste of it,” says Gunn. “Let me be very clear on that – it’s an absolutely fine, lovely way to enjoy a Scotch.” And while The Singleton brands certainly do have approachable flavor profiles, that’s not to say for a second that they don’t also have the complexity and layers of flavor to appeal to seasoned whisky fans. Trykowski recently gave a tour to a group who sampled and rediscovered The Singleton of Glen Ord 18 Years Old for the first time in years. “Their jaws hit the floor,” he says. “It’s often not until you revisit the whiskies or try them with the right people leading you through them that you realize just how good they are.” Trykowski and Gunn have been traveling across Asia to launch an exceptional 600-bottle release of The Singleton of Glen Ord 41 Years Old. “Remember when I said we want to create a Scotch for everyone?”

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asks Trykowski. “This is for whisky fans who are seeking something truly, truly special.” The bulk of the Glen Ord 41 release has been allocated to Taiwan, where The Singleton reigns supreme in what is now the world’s second largest market for single malt whisky. “I’d been prewarned that Taiwan is a massive market, but it was incredible to see. We visited a bar and everything that went out was a Scotch-based drink – everything,” says Trykowski. “I’m tipping my pockets out looking for more Glen Ord.”

么时候，用什么方式喝，我们希望他们都能如愿以偿。」他特别推荐苏打水和 The Singleton 系列的组合，既能稀释威士忌的浓烈程度，也能让它的风味发挥得淋漓尽致。在单一麦芽威士忌里加点清爽带水果味的烈酒，就能引领初尝威士忌的新手入门。这些调酒作法简单，而且每一杯都能量身订作。改变一下威士忌的种类或苏打水的牌子，加点苦味或水果切片，一杯完全不同的饮料就此诞生。Glen Ord 口感丰润、Glendullan 口味辛辣，Dufftown 则带点核果味道。曾是调酒师的 Ervin 沉迷于威士忌调酒的各式调法，总是挑战创意极限。「看看

“However you want it. It will change with the environment. It changes with the people you’re with, the food you eat, or the mood you’re in. 想怎么喝威士忌就怎么喝。在不同的地方、和不同的人、搭配不同的食物和不同的心情，就有不同的喝法。”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

ERVIN TRYKOWSKI, GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR THE SINGLETON SINGLE MALT WHISKY

我们面前的是什么！」他边说边指着两瓶陈放在已有 263 年历史的橡树树干中的威士忌，而这棵专程从伦敦威士忌酒吧 Black Rock 运来，重达七吨、外观古朴的树干则妆点了香港 Foxglove 的 Frank’s Library 酒吧。全球超过 150 间酒厂不断生产独具特色的单一麦芽威士忌，未来势必会有更多醉人的新调酒出现。 Ervin 打开一瓶 The Singleton 12 年 Glen Ord 威士忌，深吸一口香气。「这瓶很好辨认。有红色和黑色水果、皮革和各种香料的味道。这种口味总是让我眼睛一亮。」他指的是 Ribena，一种由黑加仑制成的饮料。 Ervin 认为把黑加仑煮成糖浆

再与苏格兰威士忌混合，就能打造一杯口感极佳的 Old Fashioned 鸡尾酒。当然，再怎样也不该错过品尝威士忌最简单的方式：纯饮。「我们深知许多人喜欢体验苏格兰威士忌悠久年份带来的味道，不惜花三个小时用鼻子闻，才舍得尝一口。」 Ewan 说道。「我认为这样绝对没问题！这是享受苏格兰威士忌的好方法。」即便 The Singleton 酒单上也有平易近人的「招牌风味」，但并不代表这些酒款无层次或新意而吸引不了资深威士忌迷。 Ervin 最近才带一群访客品尝 The Singleton 18 年 Glen Ord，这支酒已数年未见。他说：「每个人都跌破眼镜了，很多时候有对的人

引领你再次品尝，才能体验到威士忌诱人的地方。」 Ervin 和 Ewan 曾到亚洲各地推销限量 600 瓶 The Singleton 41 年 Glen Ord。 Ervin 问：「还记得我说过，我们想要创造人人都能品赏的威士忌吗？这支酒献给那些寻找最特别的威士忌迷。」限量 600 瓶的 The Singleton 41 年 Glen Ord 中，大部分配售到 The Singleton 单一麦芽威士忌的第二大市场 - 台湾。Ervin 说：「有人提醒过我，台湾的市场非常巨大，但当我亲自走访，还是大吃了一惊。我们到访一家酒吧，每一种以苏格兰威士忌为基底的酒都卖光！看来在那里，Glen Ord 是有钱也买不到！」 britain's bounty

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Baking Channel 烘焙频道 Bakery Room 1504, Block 4, Tai Ping Industrial Centre, 51A, Ting Kok Road, Tai Po, New Territories, Hong Kong 香港新界大埔汀角路51A太平工业中心第四座 1504室 q +852 3152 3987 / +852 5441 6463 Mon to Fri: 09:00-18:00 5

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Foxglove Bar & Lounge 2nd Floor Printing House, 18 Ice House Street, Central District, Hong Kong 中环雪厂街18号印刷行2楼 q +852 2116 8949 Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: Mon to Thu: 17:00-01:00 Fri to Sat: 17:00-03:00 5

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Gough’s on Gough British 15 Gough Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环歌赋街15号 q +852 2473 9066 Lunch: Mon-Fri: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: Mon-Sat: 18:30-23:45 5

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Vida Rica Chinese & Western 2/F, Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8918 Breakfast: 06:30-10:30 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Pony & Trap Chew Magna, Knowle Hill, Bristol BS40 8TQ, United Kingdom q +44 1275 332627 Lunch: Mon to Sat 12:00-14:00 Sun: 12:00-15:30 Dinner: Sun to Thu 19:00-21:00 Fri to Sat: 18:00-21:00

Ristorante il Teatro 帝雅廷 Southern Italian Cuisine Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape, Macau 澳门外港填海区仙德丽街永利澳门酒店 q +853 8986 3663 Dinner: Tue to Sun: 17:30-23:30 5

SW 永利扒房 Steak/Seafood North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫北名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Wed to Mon: 18:00-23:00 5

Wing Lei Macau 永利轩 Cantonese Cuisine Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape, Macau 澳门外港填海区仙德丽街永利澳门酒店地面层 q +853 8986 3663 Lunch: Mon to Sat: 11:30 to 15:00 Sun & Public Holidays: 10:30 to 15:30 Dinner: 18:00 to 23:00 5

Wing Lei Palace 永利宫 Cantonese West Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宫西名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Lunch: Mon to Sat: 11:30 -15:00 Sun & Public Holidays: 10:30 -15:30 Dinner: Daily: 18:00-23:00 5

THE ART OF WINE. DOWN TO EARTH.

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of nature, Austrian wines proudly stand

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DESSERT

Josh Eggleton composes a true expression of Pony & Trap’s prolific garden. He first pairs elderflower jelly with salted blackcurrant compote and gooseberries poached with elderflowers, then drizzles the combination with blackcurrant leaf oil and tops it with a quenelle of cucumber-and-yogurt sorbet, marigold petals, and flowers of anise hyssop and borage.

DAVID HARTUNG

主厨Josh Eggleton以一道精致甜点完美呈现Pony＆Trap餐厅生机勃勃的花园：他先把接骨木果冻、盐渍黑加仑及以接骨木浸泡的鹅莓混合，撒在黑醋栗叶油中，再放上青瓜酸奶雪葩，以金盏花花瓣，茴藿香花及琉璃苣花点缀，一片花团锦簇。

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F O O D

I S

A R T.

R E S P E C T

I T.

In craftsmanship and technology, Wolf stands alone. Its professional performance helps you make the most of every meal.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzerowolf.com.hk