TK26 Follow the Fish by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 26

F O L L O W

K I T C H E N T H E

F I S H

CHEUNG CHAU

Follow the Fish 知魚于漁 COTAI

Riches of the Deep

深海之最

SHEUNG WAN

Fresh as the Sea

「常」鲜

STARTER

From its omakase menu, Kanesaka at City of Dreams presents a refined autumn starter in a king crab shell. The flavors of rockfish, matsutake mushroom, wild Japanese parsley, and yuzu gracefully harmonize in a pool of savory softshell turtle broth.

DAVID HARTUNG

澳门新濠天地「金坂极上寿司」的主厨为此金秋时节悉心准备了一道以帝王蟹盖为容器的精致前菜。油脂丰腴的喜知次鱼，味道浓郁的松茸，香气宜人的三叶芹和清新的柚子，在一池鲜美的甲鱼汤中交织成无与伦比的滋味。

TK | follow the fish

T A S T I N G 26

F O L L O W

K I T C H E N T H E

F I S H

Tasting Kitchen Limited www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Inara Sim

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Kate Nicholson

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Juliana Loh

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Chris Dwyer

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GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

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Victoria Lei Zita Wan

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Pek Wong Ella Sio Lily Iao EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

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jonna@babel.com.tw

13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

John Sek

DISTRIBUTION

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Defying conventional bigger-is-better thinking, Min Kim, Executive Chef of Mizumi at Wynn Palace Cotai, has the freshest baby bluefin tuna, chosen for its delicate flavor, flown in from Japan’s Tottori Prefecture. Read more, beginning on page 32. 不同于传统「越大越好」的选材观点，澳门永利皇宫「泓」的行政主厨金旻炯挑选由日本鸟取县新鲜直送、口感细腻的蓝鳍小金枪鱼。想了解更多请翻阅第32页

TK | follow the fish

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Follow the Fish, we celebrate the sea’s magnificent bounty. Beginning in Hawaii, we learn about an artist whose lifework honors the timeless elements sacred to his traditional Polynesian culture: the ocean and the ships built to sail it, fishermen and their handcrafted canoes. Guided by a Sheung Wan restaurateur and her marine biologist business partner, we examine the technical complexities of a process called depuration. Their innovative ozone-based system ensures a natural cleansing, bringing moment-they-were-caught freshness to live oysters and other shellfish imported from around the world. During a lazy morning cruise through Aberdeen Harbour, we sample a chef ’s tasty selection of dishes made with fish-friendly caviar produced in Latvia by a revolutionary method – rather than killing the sturgeon, it harvests their roe with gentle massage and frees them to swim another day. In Macau, we visit one of the city’s most highly acclaimed Japanese restaurants to learn how its chefs expertly prepare four of the choicest of aquatic delicacies: hairy crab, freshwater eel, baby tuna, and abalone. And in our cover story, we embark on the high seas from Cheung Chau, accompanied on a fishing boat by a chef renowned for his wide-ranging knowledge of the local seafood. We trace one day’s catch from ocean to boat to market and, finally, to a kitchen in Sai Ying Pun, where the chef presents us with his mouth-watering results. Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

4 STARTER 12 Between Light and Shadow • 14 Citizen Kāne • 18 Homecoming in Cebu • 22 Fresh as the Sea 26 The Caviar with Heart • 30 The Summit of Sushi • 32 Riches of the Deep • 42 Follow the Fish 58 Masterfully Authentic at Wynn Palace Cotai • 64 A Playful Take on Authentic Flavors at Wynn Palace Cotai

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76 58

102

CONTENTS

70 The Asian-Nordic Alliance • 76 A Sensorial Gourmet Journey • 92 The Criticality of Cream 98 Straightforwardly Delicious • 102 Classy and Classic • 104 All the Difference • 108 Subterranean Treasures 110 Integrity and Respect • 114 A Match Launched in Heaven • 118 Hiding from the Hustle 126 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 128 D E S S E R T

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ART

生生不息之间

between light and shadow A rising presence in the Chinese contemporary art scene is named Martell Recommended Artist.

LIU GUOFU, who is said to paint with a “phantom brush,” cre艺术家刘国夫风格以「虚笔」著称，作品 ates canvases reminiscent of both the great Western masters 带有西方抽象画派大师之风，同时融合了 of abstract painting and the traditions of Chinese poetic writ中国诗画写作传统。其作品灵感有着高深 ing. Despite such high-culture inspirations, Liu’s work depicts 的文化背景，描绘的主题却与现代观众关 themes that contemporary audiences find compellingly rele注的特质息息相关－如城市及个人、英雄 vant – cities and individuals, heroes and tragedies, idealism and 与悲剧、理想主义与欲望等。 desire. 他追随「次虚 (infra-mince)」艺术 He is among the group of painters referred to as “infra流派，此一名称由艺术大师杜尚 (Marcel mince,” a French term approximating to “nearly Duchamp) 于 1930 年代所创， BY insubstantial” that represents a concept developed 为「近乎虚无」的意思。今日 KATE NICHOLSON by Marcel Duchamp in the 1930s. Today it is applied 则用于中国再度兴起的艺术趋 to a reemerging style in Chinese art noted for its 势，以追求「虚淡」的中式美 PAINTING BY consideration of the “empty blandness” of Chinese 学及重新思考杜尚的风格。 LIU GUOFU aesthetics and a rethinking of Duchamp’s art. 观者可透过刘国夫的画作 Liu’s fragmented canvases draw the viewer into 进入他笔触下光影交错的空间。 the spaces between the light and shadow of his brushstrokes. 其作品有著清透轻盈的质感，也常被比喻 With its translucent look and feel, his work is often compared to 为精致的大理石玉，同时也如生命能量气 delicately marbled jade and has been characterized as elusively 的脉动般迷离，就像黑暗中出现的光芒。 pulsating with the life energy of qi , with a sense of light emerg如此杰出的艺术家能吸引到干邑世家 ing from darkness. 马爹利的注意并不意外，其作品的精细程 That the artist should attract the notice of Martell is not 度与每瓶马爹利干邑包含的别致匠心不谋 surprising, given the parallels between the ways in which Liu 而合。马爹利与 3812 画廊合作，于今年把 works and the meticulous craftsmanship behind every bottle of 刘国夫的作品《敞 28》展出于「典雅艺博 Martell Cognac. Teaming up with 3812 Gallery, Martell copre(Fine Art Asia 2016)」，同时亦为刘国夫在 sented Liu’s artwork Open Space No. 28 , reproduced here, at 香港首个个展拉开序曲。

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TK | follow the fish

刘国夫的作品和马爹利全力以赴达标的精神相当契合。画布上大片的贵族蓝也正是马爹利品牌极具辨识度的特征之一。刘国夫运用蓝色来探寻更高境界，与马爹利一心一意、追求卓越的哲学互相交映，让佳酿和艺术完美结合。刘国夫表示，自己确实深受中国古代艺术家画家，如龚贤等人的影响，同时形容「每个人的笔触就是自己在世上所留下的痕迹，是深具精神性的痕迹」。如前看来，刘国夫也正跟随此方向，不断给世人留下印象深刻的痕迹。

OPEN SPACE NO. 28, LIU GUOFU

Fine Art Asia 2016, a preview of the artist’s first Hong Kong solo exhibition. The work matches well with what Martell strives to achieve. The “aristocratic blue” that dominates the canvas is a recognizable signature of the Martell brand. And Liu’s use of blue to explore a higher world points to a similarly transcendent pursuit of excellence by Martell. Liu, who admits to being deeply inspired by such master literati painters of the distant past as Gong Xian, remarks that “each person’s brushstrokes are the traces they leave in the world; these are the spiritual traces.” Liu Guofu, it would seem, is well on his way to making his own impressive mark on the present.

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

FOOD & ART

国宝艺术家

citizen kāne BY THE 1970 S , cultural traditions in the island state of Hawaii were close to extinction. For many years prior, little emphasis had been placed on educating younger generations in the old ways, and oral traditions that once ensured that important knowledge would be passed from father to son and mother to daughter had been abandoned. Herbert “Herb” Kawainui K ne, born in 1928 to a Hawaiian father and an American mother, is credited with reviving interest in the vibrant cultural traditions of one of the Pacific’s most distinctive island chains. Not only did he paint scenes of ancient and modern life from Hawaiian and other Polynesian island cultures, he also pioneered the rebuilding and sailing of the traditional Hawaiian voyaging canoe and authored a number of books on Hawaiian history and culture. K ne’s works were praised for their careful attention to historical accuracy. He pored over ancient navigational charts, original accounts from visiting missionaries, ship and architectural plans, and botanical surveys, and he even dove underwater through bays and across reefs to study their geological features. His research ensured that his paintings accurately reflected whatever period or event he was portraying. The canoe, as K ne once so poignantly remarked, lies at the heart of Polynesian culture. Large voyaging versions had long been used for travel and trade between islands, and

TK | follow the fish

1970 年代，美国海岛州夏威夷的传统文化几乎濒临灭绝。因之前甚少强调让年轻一代接受传统教育的重要性，而父传子母传女的口授重要知识方式也已佚失。昵称为「Herb K ne 」的艺术家 Herbert Kawainui K ne 出生于 1928 年，父亲为夏威夷人，母亲则是美国血统。归功于他，太平洋最具特色群岛之一的活力传统文化，才得以再次引起世人的注目。他除了将夏威夷及其他波利尼西亚岛屿的古代及现代生活场景绘制成画，更领先重新打造传统夏威夷独木舟出海航行，同时也撰写了多部关于夏威夷历史及文化的著作。 Herb K ne 作品为人称道之处在于其对历史考证的严谨性。他钻研古代航海图、来访传教团的原始记载、船舶及建筑设计、植物调查报告，甚至亲自在海湾及礁岩区潜水，只为了一探所在的地理特征。根据大量研究，他的作品能成功刻画史实，完整呈现所描绘的时代及各大事件。「独木舟」就如 Herb K ne 的强烈描述，实为波利尼西亚文化的核心。航海用大型独木舟长久以来作为岛屿间来往及贸易之用，地方小船则是传统捕鱼不可或缺的工具。海洋生物的多样性对夏威夷饮食尤其重要，少了独木舟，其特色饮食文化也会大打折扣。在此看到的是典型的捕鱼独木舟，可以靠岸也能远航使用。根据古老夏威夷远洋捕鱼方法，渔夫把钩线绑在竹制浮筒上以捕捉如红鲷这类的鱼。海鲜为夏威夷居民主要的蛋白质来源，渔夫此一职业自古

HERB KANE, FISHING CANOE OFF NORTH KONA

A dedicated artist and historian helped bring his people’s dying cultural heritage back to life.

follow the fish

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Kāne’s painting Fisherman reflects the Hawaiian people’s traditional reverence for the men who labored at sea to supply their sustenance. 一直以来，夏威夷人都对在海上捕鱼作业、协助在地生计的人充满敬意，这在Kāne的名画「渔夫(Fisherman)」中可以体现。

以来备受尊重。除了辛勤工作，他们还要亲自制作鱼钩、鱼线、鱼枪和鱼饵等东西，也会拿草料植物纤维、骨头、贝壳及羽毛制作渔网；以锋利的珊瑚、鲨鱼齿或手工装配。渔夫也都相当虔诚，每趟出海前都会留下渔获作供奉，以确保此行丰收。然而，Herb K ne 的创作不限于传统夏威夷文化。除了描绘岛屿间延续数百年的季节贸易情景外，这幅画刻画的是一名鱼贩子身处现代繁忙市场摊子处理鲜鱼的情景。

Herb K ne 的兴趣广泛，在多个领域均取得傲人成就。他是技术纯熟的帆船手，创立波利尼西亚航海协会，打造知名的航海大船 H k le‘a，并于 1975 年担任第一任船长。其后第二年，船员扬旗远征大溪地。他于 1984 年获「夏威夷活宝藏」美称，在世期间及 82 岁过世至今仍享有盛名。他尽心尽力，以描绘家乡历史为职志，或许就像他所说的：「理解过去让我们如同船舵在手，可以遨游于现在；没有过去则如同失去船舵，顿失方向。」这段话正是他一生最好的总结。

HERB KANE, FISHERMAN; HERB KANE, FISH MARKET

the indigenous vessel had been an essential part of traditional fishing methods. Without it, the diversity of sea life that has always been so essential to the Hawaiian diet could never have been available in such abundance. Depicted here is a typical fishing canoe that was used close to shore as well as far out, where, according to ancient Hawaiian deep-sea practices, fishermen would attach hooked lines to bamboo floats to snare such fish as red snapper. With seafood the main source of protein in a Hawaiian community, the fisherman was traditionally a revered figure. He had to be industrious, making all of his own hooks, lines, lures, spears, and nets from foraged plant fibers, bones, shells, and feathers, which he fashioned with sharp bits of coral or sharks’ teeth and assembled by hand. The fisherman also had to be deeply spiritual in order to ensure a good catch by leaving an offering of fish at an ocean-side shrine before each expedition. K ne, however, did not focus exclusively on traditional Hawaiian culture. For example, instead of a typical seasonal trade gathering of the kind that had been taking place for hundreds of years throughout the islands, he here depicts the modern equivalent, a contemporary fishmonger at his stall in a busy urban marketplace. The painter’s wide-ranging accomplishments also included becoming an accomplished yachtsman, founding the Polynesian Voyaging Society, and designing and building the famous sailing canoe H k le‘a. He served as its first captain in 1975, and in the following year, the boat’s crew sailed it on its maiden long-haul voyage to Tahiti. K ne, who was named a Living Treasure of Hawaii in 1984, was widely celebrated both before and since his death at age 82. Making an impact on the revival of traditional Hawaiian culture that is difficult to overstate, K ne displayed a commitment to the history of his homeland that is best summed up in his own words: “Knowing our past gives us a rudder with which to navigate the present, and without that past, we are simply rudderless.”

DESIGN

家在宿务

homecoming in cebu

COURTESY OF THE PIG AND PALM (4)

Their stylish new venue represents a return to roots for a couple celebrated in the world of fine dining.

TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

DESIGN

位在菲律宾宿务岛的「The Pig & Palm」是 The Social THE PIG & PALM on the island of Cebu in the Philippines is the sixCompany 旗下第十六所代表作，同时也是 Jason teenth establishment founded under the prestige banner of The Atherton 和 Irha Atherton 的人生成就之作。Irha 童年 Social Company, as well as a standout personal achievement for 在宿务岛度过，而名厨 Jason 也把这家在宿务的餐厅当 Jason and Irha Atherton. In fact, star chef Jason Atherton considers 作是给他事业伙伴和人生伴侣 Irha 的一封情书。他说： it a “love letter” to his wife and business partner, whose childhood 「我们每年至少回乡一趟拜访亲友，一直以来我们的 home was Cebu. “We’ve always traveled back at least once a year 梦想就是将在海外的成功经验带回菲律宾，The Pig & to visit family,” he says. “It was a dream of ours to bring some of Palm 的开幕和我们沥尽心血为其创造的一切让我们引 the success we’ve had abroad back to the Philippines one day, and 以为傲。」 we’re so proud of what we’ve created with The Pig and Palm.” 餐厅的设计灵感来自宿务的殖民历史，邻近著名 The inspiration for the restaurant’s interior is Cebu’s colonial 古迹「圣佩特罗堡 (Fort San Pedro)」的建筑构造和 past, drawn specifically from the architecture and aesthetics of 美学精神也贯彻其中。餐厅和中国 nearby historial landmark Fort San Pedro. Chinese 文化的连结也很明显，除了因为地 cultural links are also apparent, not only to the 区遗产，它和上海的「如恩设计研 heritage of the area, but also to architect Lyndon 究室 Neri&Hu」设计师伙伴郭锡恩 Neri, a partner in Shanghai-based studio Neri&Hu. 亦有着深远的关系。郭锡恩在宿务 He also grew up on the island and has collaborated 岛长大，也曾和 Atherton 夫妇合作 with the Athertons on a number of other restau参与了 The Social Company 许多餐 rants for The Social Company. “The gray bricks 厅的设计。郭锡恩说：「餐厅使用的灰 used throughout are a typical building material 砖是中国很多地方的典型建材，它风 found in many parts of China,” says Neri, “and their 化的纹理也体现了悠长久远的传统。」 weathered textures are a testament to that long 然而设计师认为这个案子最富挑 tradition.” 战性的，就是餐厅的位置。The Pig The most challenging part of the project, & Palm 位在新落成的综合商业大楼 according to the designer, was its situation within a MSY Tower 里，属宿务物业发展商夫 new commercial complex, MSY Tower, developed 妻 Chris McKowen 和 Carla McKowen by Cebu-based Chris and Carla McKowen, who are 的项目，Chris 和 Carla 现在也成为 also close friends of the Athertons. “How do you Atherton 夫妇的好朋友。郭锡恩问起： create an environment where guests are immedi「你们怎样创造出一个能把客人转眼 ately transported to another world, another time 你们怎样创造出间送到另一时空的环境？」「『堡垒』 and place?” asks Neri. “That’s how the concept of 一个能把客人转的概念从这而生，就像是将历史加插 the ‘fort’ came about, almost like inserting a piece 其中，在闪亮玻璃墙围绕的世界，沉 of history itself, this heavy rustic brick mass sitting 眼间送到另一时重质朴的大片石砖置于其中。」 within the shiny world of glass curtain wall.” 空的环境菲律宾美食共享的文化也反映在 The Filipino cultural custom of shared meals is The Pig & Palm 的装潢和菜单之中。 reflected in both the design and the menu of The

“ How do you create an environment where guests are immediately transported to another world, another time and place?

?”

TK | follow the fish

设计团队为餐厅设置了两个吧台，分别制作餐前小点和调制饮料，展现餐厅麻雀虽小五脏俱全，处处是惊喜。郭锡恩说：「在出奇不意的角落加入开放空间，人们可藉以观察，享受窥探的快感，或是创造出让人悸动的一眼瞬间。我们希望呈现进餐可如戏剧般充满风味，客人可一起感受准备食物时的气氛和行动，除了顾客和员工，食客之间也可进行互动。」

The Pig & Palm 呈献的美食也表现了主厨 Jason 在名厨 Ferran Adrià 开设的「elBulli」餐厅工作时获得的丰富经验，以及长时间品尝岛上本土美食获得的成果。「我喜欢餐前小点，因为让人感觉随兴、能开心分享，这和集团推动『社交』的理念不谋而合，亦因为西班牙在宿务岛过去的历史，这绝对是餐厅最佳的选择。」

COURTESY OF THE PIG AND PALM (3)

Pig & Palm. The team created two bars, for tapas and drinks, which meant packing a lot into the relatively small area within the restaurant’s footprint. “We created openings in unexpected places to facilitate people-watching, the thrill of stolen glances,” Neri explains. “We want to celebrate the theatricality of dining, with guests participating in the atmosphere and action of food preparation and interacting with staff and other guests.” The food offered at The Pig & Palm reflects the rich experience Atherton gained while working for Ferran Adrià at elBulli as well as much time spent sampling the island’s indigenous cuisine. “I love tapas because of the relaxed, sharing element – it fits well with the ‘Social’ of our company ethos, and of course with Cebu’s Spanish past, it seemed like the perfect choice.”

Sandy Keung, Executive Chef 行政主厨姜若男

TASTING NOTES

「常」鲜

fresh as the sea The chef of an ingredient-based restaurant and a marine biologist team up to offer Hong Kong’s purest shellfish.

法国诗人法尔格 (Léon-Paul Fargue，1876– 1947) 曾写道：「品尝生蚝犹如与海洋亲吻。」 on the lips,” wrote French poet Léon-Paul 他或许尝过新鲜的去壳太平洋生蚝，或曾 Fargue (1876–1947), perhaps after sam体验在布列塔尼北岸知名海边小镇康卡尔 pling a platter of freshly shucked Pacific or (Cancale) 露天小摊把贝隆扁壳生蚝现开现 flat Belon oysters on the half shell from an 吃。从生蚝壳内透出的耀眼光芒及丰满蚝肉、 open-air stand in the famous French fishing 富含鲜甜汁液的蚝肚，还有刚捕上岸、拥有 village Cancale on the northern coast of Brit和清澈海水一般洁净、清爽及新鲜的大海气 tany. Fargue was rhapsodizing about oysters 息等等，以上种种都让大诗人为之疯狂。 that are glistening and plump in their shells, 可惜和生蚝如此浪漫的体验在香港并 their bellies filled with sweet liquor, their 不常见。由于运送及物流调度 scent as clean, crisp, and fresh as 耗时，法国活生蚝进口时距捞 BY the pristine seawater from which 捕上岸已至少三天，即便是澳 MAMIE CHEN they were just harvested. 洲哥芬湾生蚝从运送到顺利清 But such a romantic experi关，也要两天的时间。虽然生 PHOTOGRAPHY BY ence with shellfish isn’t always 蚝此种双壳滤食软体动物离水 DAVID HARTUNG possible in Hong Kong. Due to 后仍可存活数周，然而若无再 transportation time and logistics, 次浸水，废物便无法正常从体内排泄，且 live oysters imported from France are out of 沙粒或细菌等微生物污染源等异物也难以 the water for a minimum of three days. Even 排出，因此容易产生腥异味，尤以蛤蛎及 Coffin Bay oysters from Australia can take 贻贝为最。更令人担心的是海鲜上水之后 two days to ship and clear customs. Although 期间会引发细菌滋生。 the filter-feeding bivalve mollusks are capa以上在精品餐厅「Table」主厨姜若 ble of surviving for weeks out of water, they 男眼里显然是不能接受的。姜主厨过往 can’t properly excrete biological waste from 从事金融事业，曾投资过用以净化商业 their bodies or expel foreign particles like 鱼池及废水再利用的水产养殖净化系统。 sand or microbiological contaminants like 当她开设自己的餐厅时，也立意引进部 bacteria until they’ve been reimmersed. This 分相关技术。她说：「我参与海鲜净化技 can result in a funky, fishy taste, particularly 术发展好多年了，很习惯吃干净、净化 with clams and mussels. Of greater concern, 过的生蚝，要我把自己都不吃的生蚝供 bacteria can incubate in the shellfish during 应给客人，那是绝不可能。『Table』各种 that dry period. 菜式以食材为主角，而经净化之后的海 This is simply unacceptable to Sandy 鲜味道更升华。」 Keung, Executive Chef of boutique restau主厨和过往钻研过相同养殖净化系统 rant Table. In her previous professional life 的海洋生物学家谢建荣一起合作，两人仔 in the finance industry, she’d once invested 细研究、尝试并从错误中累积经验，经过 in a fish-farming depuration system that 多次修改微调，终于成功将净化系统改良 purified and recycled water from commer成适用于 60 人位子的餐厅，同时也可用于 cial fish tanks. When she opened Table, she 多种不同的贝类海产之上。此一客制化的 was committed to bringing some form of “EATING OYSTERS is like kissing the sea

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Poached French Normandy Oyster topped with French Beef Carpaccio and Lardo Crudo 水煮法国诺曼地生蚝佐法式生牛肉及猪背脂生火腿

follow the fish

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TASTING NOTES

Norwegian Scampi Sashimi with Parsnip 挪威大虾刺身佐防风草

that technology to her restaurant. “I’d been involved with the process for a number of years,” she says. “I was used to eating clean, depurated oysters, and I could never consider serving oysters that I wouldn’t eat myself. At Table, we serve ingredient-based cuisine,

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and depuration is one way to improve my live seafood ingredients.” Keung teamed up with Miller Tse, a marine biologist who’d worked with the same fish-farming depuration system, and, after careful research and much trial and

error, they were able to make adjustments and modifications to the technology to downsize the system to one that meets the needs of a single sixty-seat restaurant and accommodates different species of shellfish. The result is a custom-made, ozone-based system, small enough to sit on a counter in the back corner of the restaurant’s kitchen. It creates a controlled environment of clean saltwater where shellfish can resume their normal filter-feeding and digestive processes that let them purge themselves naturally of waste and contaminants. “The technology isn’t that easy to handle,” says Tse. “Do it right, and you’ll depurate the seafood; do it wrong, and you can kill it all.” To establish the optimal conditions, he walks a fine line in determining the proper level of dissolved oxygen, salinity range, water temperature, and other factors. Raising the salinity level or water temperature results in a concurrent decrease in the solubility of oxygen. Drop the temperature too low, and the shellfish become less active and less efficient in cleansing themselves; raise it too high, and they become too active and stressed. Keung rotates shellfish into the depuration tank on a cycle of one to three days, depending on the species and their origins. She finds that oysters from France take longer to depurate than those from Korea or Australia. Mud crabs are dirtier than king crabs, likely because of their respective home environments. Asked which types of shellfish are most important to depurate, she replies, “Anything that would be eaten raw or undercooked, just to minimize the risk.” It’s no surprise that Keung’s style of cooking greatly benefits from the purifying process. “I do like to undercook seafood, because it’s juicier and more tender. And depurated seafood is so convenient, because I can literally take it out of the tank and use it without any worries about sand, waste, or bacteria. You can taste and see the improvement in quality.”

臭氧系统体型迷你，轻巧得可以置于餐厅厨房后方的柜台上。系统让贝类可在干净的咸水中恢复正常的滤食及消化习性，自然排出体内废物及污染源。谢建荣进一步说明：「这种技术不容易掌握，做得好可以净化海鲜，做不好可能让海鲜送命。」为了营造最佳环境，所有部分也要格外留意，溶解氧及盐分程度、水温及其他因素都要控制恰当。氧气溶解度对于盐分或水温提高有连动效应，会随之降低。温度太低，贝类会较无生气，自我清洁的效率也会下降；温度太高时则可能活跃过度、压力变大。依据种类及出产地不同，姜主厨会轮流把贝类放进池中净化，以一到三天为一个循环。她观察到法国生蚝所需净化时间比起韩国或澳洲同类较长；而泥蟹因原生环境的关系，比帝王蟹来得脏。问到哪种贝类最需要净化，她回应道：「所有要生吃或半熟微煮的食材都不例外，我们希望把风险降到最低。」想当然尔，此种净化技术也为姜主厨的烹饪方法带来不少好处。她形容：「海鲜不煮至全熟，会更加多汁、软嫩。净化海鲜真的很方便，从池中取出直接就能上场，完全不用担心含有沙、排泄物或细菌。尝过一口，就知道品质有所提升，完全不同。」

Mud Crab Meat and Roe with Garlic Rice 泥蟹肉及蟹膏佐蒜香饭 ↑↑ Marine biologist Miller Tse 海洋生物学家谢建荣 follow the fish

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TASTING NOTES

海中黑钻取之有道

the caviar with heart

Thanks to Simpson Marine, Asia’s leading international yacht dealership. Their sixty-foot Monte Carlo 6 (MC 6) provided a most elegant means of exploring Hong Kong’s islands and inlets. 诚挚感谢亚洲一流的国际游艇经销商「辛普森游艇(Simpson Marine)」， 60英尺的蒙地卡罗六号（MC 6）让您以最优雅的方式，一探香港的岛屿及水湾。

AS THE YACHT SKIMS SERENELY across the deep blue of Hong Kong’s Aberdeen Harbour, a cooler chest is opened to reveal gleaming jars of some of the world’s finest – and most revolutionary – caviar. The provenance of the afternoon’s epicurean excursion can be traced to a patriarch of a renowned Russian family business, a lifelong aquaculturist passionate about the rare species that famously bestows the noblest of roe. After gaining extensive experience in sturgeon farming in Russia, he and a group of other experts established Mottra’s

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ultramodern facilities in the Baltic state of Latvia in 2002. The most notable aspect of what sets Mottra apart from other producers is that their premium caviar is vegetarian-friendly and truly sustainable, a feat accomplished through a groundbreaking technique for extracting the precious eggs. Instead of killing the sturgeon or subjecting them to traumatic C-section, they are brought into a sterile environment and gently massaged until the eggs are naturally spawned. Not only can the fish be returned to happy life in

坐在游艇中，沉稳地在香港鸭巴甸港的蔚蓝海域驰骋之际，把冷藏柜缓缓打开，只见多个闪耀光芒的精美罐子，里面装着的，正是极优品质、以划时代性技术制作的「鱼子酱」。这趟午后的奢华旅程可追溯自俄罗斯知名家族企业「Mottra」的创始人。他醉心于海洋文化，多年来致力研究发掘可造就极致珍贵的鱼子酱的稀有鱼种。他曾在俄罗斯养殖鲟鱼，广泛汲取经验后在 2002 年和专家团队于拉脱维亚波罗的海当地成立了 Mottra 超现代先进养殖中心。 Mottra 跟其他生产商的分别在于，其出产的顶级鱼子酱不仅素食者可用，更全然兼顾到环境永续性。他们弃用一般全鱼宰杀或剖腹等方式，以领先业界的革命性技术萃取珍贵的鱼卵。鲟鱼先被放在无菌的环境中，接受轻柔的按摩直至自然产卵。产完卵的鱼不仅可再次回到清澈的水域继续悠游，待再次产卵时鱼子酱的量甚至会增加。经销商「Link Ideas Ltd 联意国际有限公司」负责人绫奇睿就形容：「这方式完全人道 , 过程就像让母鸡下蛋一样 , 没有任何问题。」 Mottra 养殖稀有且高价的鱼种，如小体鲟以及西伯利亚鲟鱼种（Acipenser baerii），其中这种鱼在成熟期的前七年一直在特殊设计的鱼缸中受悉心照料；缸中注入的是取自海底 150 米的自流水，水质经多重过滤，纯净的程度甚至可以装进罐中直接贩售。正因毫无污染或水生疾病之虞， Mottra 养殖的鲟鱼无须施打任何抗生素、类固醇或激素。鱼吃的全是浮游生物、小型植物及水底昆虫，跟在原生水域一模一样。 Mottra 的鱼子酱只会加上基本的盐，甚至连其包装也走天然路线：「大

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

The world’s most highly prized delicacy is sustainably farmed by Mottra.

“This was inspired by Wilhelm Link’s experience of eating Mottra after the ultimate palate cleanser of blackberries and a shot of vodka – a combination that allows the caviar’s flavor to truly sing.” 「绫奇睿品尝Mottra鱼子酱的经验为这道菜的灵感来源；黑梅加上一小杯伏特加，这完美组合可平衡口内味道之余，更可激发鱼子酱最美妙的滋味。」

TASTING NOTES

“This dish was inspired by six weeks I spent working in Japan, where they’re famous for dishes with purity and concentration of product. It’s steamed zucchini flowers, with a mousse inside made from Japanese scallops. You have the sweetness of the scallops, a little floral touch, and then the saltiness of the caviar.”

“There’s a very traditional caviar dish with crispy potato. I add a bit of egg-yolk cream, confit with white miso, and oxalis flowers, which have a natural acidity that goes perfectly with caviar.” 「鱼子酱搭配酥炸马铃薯相当传统，这道菜我加了一些蛋黄奶油，白味噌及酢浆花以油封调理，其中酢浆花天然的酸味和鱼子酱简直绝配。」

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crystal waters, but they also yield additional caviar when ready to spawn again. As Wilhelm Link of Link Ideas explains, “It’s really as humane as gathering eggs from a chicken!” Mottra raises the rare, highly-prized Ascipenser ruthenus sturgeon as well as the Siberian variety, Acipenser baerii, which, during the seven years before reaching maturity, are kept in specially designed tanks filled with artesian water from a hundred and fifty meters underground. The water undergoes extensive filtration, making it so pure that it could be bottled and sold. Since there’s no risk of pollution or water-borne diseases, Mottra can raise their sturgeon without antibiotics, steroids, or hormones. The fish are fed exactly what they’d eat in the wild: river plankton, small plants, and ground insects. Only salt is added, and even Mottra’s packaging is pure. “Most companies use metal tins that oxidize over time. Their taste can infiltrate the product, so we use glass that keeps

the caviar fresher longer and lets you see the beautiful beads before opening the jar.” The first harvest in 2007 proved that the distinctive, sought-after flavor profile is exactly the same as with traditionally harvested caviar. The texture is where the difference is most remarkable. “The skin of the eggs is thinner,” says Link, “so our caviar is softer. Some traditionalists prefer a stronger ‘pop’ in the mouth, but ours is smoother, finer, more buttery. When consumers taste-test both, they really prefer the silkier version.” Mottra produces three varieties for Asia’s discerning clientele: “Finest,” briefly pasteurized and lasting twelve months; “Vantage,” unpasteurized and lasting up to three months; and “Gold,” made to order, and the most spectacular and pricey by far. “As the name suggests,” says Link, “we add flakes of real 999.9 gold. It doesn’t change the taste, and it’s the ultimate status symbol! But with or without gold, our consumers appreciate

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

「我曾在日本工作停留了六周，当地料理追求呈现菜肴的纯粹美味和精华，这启发了我创作这道菜：蒸过的栉瓜花里面镶入日本扇贝慕斯，如此一来可以同时尝到扇贝的鲜甜和一点花香滋味，而接着就是鱼子酱独有的咸味。」

“Here we have a beetroot macaron made from pickled beetroot and beetroot purée with raspberry vinegar and German horseradish for spice and power. You eat it in one bite and get the sweetness, saltiness, and spiciness.” 「这个甜菜根马卡龙以腌制甜菜根、覆盆子醋和德国辣根制成的甜菜根泥组合而成，其中辣根的呛辣及劲道是惊喜所在，吃一口可以感受到甜、咸及辣味交融的滋味。」

Mottra Caviar because they want the best of the best.” While caviar is perhaps most stylishly eaten straight off the back of the hand, innovative chefs love to get creative with it, and Bjoern Alexander is one of them. As Group Executive Chef at Hong Kong’s KEE Club, Alexander has a name-dropping resume that includes The French Laundry in Napa, Tantris in Munich, and Burj Al Arab Jumeirah in Dubai. While the sleek craft plies its way toward Deepwater Bay, Alexander prepares a selection of dishes that celebrate Mottra’s pristine qualities: “When you have really great caviar like this, you’ve got to keep the flavors clean.”

Mottra Caviar can be purchased directly from Link Ideas Limited, Mottra’s exclusive agents for Hong Kong and Singapore, at www.mottra.hk.

多数业者采用锡罐，缺点是时间一久就会氧化，味道更会渗进产品中，因此我们选用玻璃罐，鱼子酱的鲜度不仅可以维持更久，开罐前就能看到一粒粒赏心悦目的亮黑珍宝。」品牌在 2007 年用首批养殖鱼制成的鱼子酱，证明了和传统养殖成品散发的独特、众人寻求的味道如出一辙，而且口感还更胜一筹。绫奇睿自豪地表示：「这些鱼卵表皮更薄，制成的鱼子酱质地较软。有些传统派偏好鱼子酱在口中强劲爆开的感觉，但我们家的则比较柔嫩细腻，更带有绵密口感。当消费者两相试吃比较后，大多会选择丝般质地的鱼子酱。」 Mottra 出产三种鱼子酱，以满足亚洲顶级饕客的挑剔口味：「优良级」经短暂消毒杀菌，保存期可达十二个月；「优越级」未经杀菌，保存期三个月；而「黄金级」仅接受下单特制，为目前最顶级及最高价系列。绫奇睿表示：「产品正如其名，加了 999.9 纯金细片，然而对于

味道却没有一点影响，这更是顶级尊荣的象征！不过无论有没有黄金，客人都对 Mottra 鱼子酱情有独钟，因为他们想要的就是最顶级的滋味。」鱼子酱直接放手上食用或许是最时尚的吃法，不过创意满满的大厨们还是想来点不一样的，香港 KEE Club 集团行政主厨 Bjoern Alexander 正是其中一位；Bjoern 经历相当显赫，过去曾在美国酒乡纳帕的「The French Laundry」、慕尼黑的「Tantris」及杜拜的「Burj Al Arab Jumeirah」等多家顶级餐厅历练。当流线造型的游艇朝深水湾前进之际，Bjoern 端出一系列菜色，让客人品尝 Mottra 鱼子酱无从挑剔的纯粹口感，他说：「品质绝佳的鱼子酱已在手，这时只需搭配简单原始的味道。」

Mottra 鱼子酱可以直接从联意国际有限公司（(Mottra 的香港和新加坡独家代理商 ) 购买，网址：www.mottra.hk follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS MACAU

传统工艺极致演绎

the summit of sushi Michelin-starred Shinji by Kanesaka embodies a master chef’s ethos of harmony, purity, and passion for Japanese culinary traditions.

imported directly from Japanese hot springs that matter most. While Shinji by Kanesaka adheres to sushi-making tradition under the direction of the master, it adds a luxurious twist to some items by topping them with caviar. And Chef Osumi expresses his creativity through flavors and textures, adding color and dimension to his sushi with such things as gelatinous fish stock made with sweet vinegar and spring onions. Vegan diners are offered special non-seafood selections like squash and turnip rolls. The chefs’ deep respect for the best produce distilled in each dish is apparent in the clocklike precision of their work at the sushi bar. “We always depend on market availability of produce and the catch of the day,” says Osumi. “The only thing that has really changed the way we make sushi is the invention of modern tools like refrigeration that extends the freshness of produce and jet transport that ensures that our seafood in Macau is of exactly the same quality as when it left Japan.”

大名鼎鼎的东京米其林一星餐厅「金坂极上寿司」首间海外店于澳门新濠天地开幕之前，主厨大隅达及资深二厨藤本健一均遵从传统严格标准，由创办人金坂真次悉心培训，习得一身好技艺，从而胜任如此要职。餐厅承袭自十五世纪江户时代以来严谨细致的寿司作法，确保每贯寿司都是口感、鲜度、风味及酸度的完美结合。餐厅对「Omakase ( 全权委托 )」方式的完美展现无庸置疑，主厨精选当日最佳食材，精心安排为每位客人呈上寿司的顺序及节奏。当问到能否分享更多关于此传统体验时，大隅主厨含蓄地表示：「亲自上桌品尝 Omakase 料理，便最能确切感受当中的精髓。」饭决定了普通寿司及顶级寿司的差别，主厨为制作最佳的醋饭选用特定的稻米种，最高品质的日本红醋，以及把日本当地温泉水直送到澳门，以上缺一不可。「金坂极上寿司」除了遵循极致的传统技艺外，更会在有些料理中加入鱼子酱，增添一丝豪华美味。大隅主厨也会在不同味道及口感上发挥创意，如使用甜醋及青葱熬煮成凝胶状的鱼骨高汤，来为寿司增色添加层次。对于素食爱好者，主厨也准备了节瓜及萝卜卷等美味单品寿司以供享用。对于每一道料理中使用的一流食材，主厨们都投注极大敬意，这从他们在板前一丝不苟的精准动作中即可体现。主厨强调：「料理食材都是依据当日市场购入的鲜农作及现捞鱼产而定，我们在料理方法上唯一有所改变的是更多使用新发明的现代工具，如冰箱可延长食材鲜度，空运则让飞抵澳门的海鲜和离开日本时的品质一模一样，新鲜美味不打折。」

Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi 餐厅主厨大隅达

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

BEFORE OPENING an extension of his famous one-Michelin-star Tokyo restaurant at Macau’s City of Dreams, Master Chef Shinji Kanesaka meticulously trained and qualified Chef de Cuisine Toru Osumi and Senior Sous Chef Kenichi Fujimoto in the classic manner. It’s precisely because the restaurant’s sushi has been made according to strict tradition dating from the Edo period of the fifteenth century that each piece has the ultimate balance of freshness, acidity, texture, and flavor. The restaurant’s omakase approach leaves it up to the chef to prepare the best produce available on any given day and to orchestrate the cadence and rhythm of each diner’s meal. Chef Osumi is reserved in trying to explain the tradition in words: “The best way to discover it is to have a seat and try the omakase menu.” One litmus test that separates good sushi from stellar sushi is the rice. Besides the type of grains required, it’s the premiumquality akazu, or red vinegar, and the water

Sashimi: Bonito (Katsuo), Mackerel (Saba), Saury (Sanma) 刺身: 鲣鱼(Katsuo), 鲭鱼(Saba), 秋刀鱼(Sanma)

深海之最

Riches of the Deep Mizumi presents the finest seafood on earth with the elegance and artistry that only Japan can inspire.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY

CREATURES COURTESY OF

INARA SIM

DAVID HARTUNG

MIZUMI

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I N G R FEEDAI TE U NRT ES

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

INGREDIENTS

J A P A N E S E C U I S I N E is justly celebrated for its brilliant use of the full range of authentic, traditional, and unique ingredients in its vast repertoire, especially its national treasures of the sea. Hundreds of species of aquatic creatures are harvested from the oceans that surround the myriad islands comprising the country, not to mention the bounty fished from its rivers and lakes. For each of these untold varieties, Japanese artistry has devised nearly as many creative styles of preparation and presentation. And at Wynn Palace’s Michelinstarred restaurant Mizumi, Executive Chef Min Kim has mastered the art of setting off to best advantage the freshest, most sought-after seafood, flown in daily from the Land of the Rising Sun.

日式佳肴一直以来备受推崇，各种正宗传统及独一无二的食材总能在日式料理中出色呈现，尤其是地方限定的独有海产。日本由众多岛屿组成，未计岛上河域及湖泊的丰富鱼产，只是邻近海域便可捕获多达数百种海中生物。面对种类丰富的海鲜，日本料理大师也为此研发出五花八门的创意准备功夫及摆盘风格。而在澳门永利皇宫米其林日式餐厅「泓」，行政主厨金旻炯每日也会从日本当地进口鲜度一流、众人梦寐以求的海鲜品种，在主厨的妙手之下，展现最美味的一面。

Executive Chef Min Kim 行政主厨金旻炯

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Hairy Crab 北海道毛蟹

Crab salad with sudachi jelly and assorted pickles “I wanted to showcase this beautiful ingredient without compromising it,” says Chef Kim. “A salad is the most approachable dish for everyone, but it needed to be sophisticated and elegant.” In order to compare and contrast differing tastes, the meat from the body, which has a more pronounced marine flavor, is shredded into finer pieces, while the legs and claws, with the distinct mild sweetness of crabmeat, are served in bigger chunks. One of Chef Kim’s signature dishes, the salad is served with a selection of pickled and cured vegetables, including cucumber and Japanese varieties of radish, seaweed,

It may look like an undersea monster undergoing a bad hair day, but the rich flavor and delicate texture of the Hokkaido hairy crab more than make up for its menacing appearance. Found in the waters of many Asian countries and named for the bristly filaments that cover its shell, it’s a traditional autumn delicacy, prized for its succulent flesh and creamy roe. Chef Kim considers it the crème de la crème of crabs: “For me, this variety from Hokkaido is the most flavorful I’ve tasted in my whole career. Because it lives in such harsh, cold water, the intensity of flavor really accumulates, and there’s a lot more meat in the body compared to other crabs.” The scientific explanation is that colder water stimulates the development of insulating body fat, and, just as with beef and pork, it’s the fat that contains much of the flavor and makes the flesh juicy and tender. “Crab is so versatile as an ingredient,” says Kim. “I often steam it and use the meat in a whole variety of dishes, from sushi and sashimi to crab salads.”

此一深海生物看起来奇形怪状，发型

and shallots. For a bracing hint of citrus,

独特，味道却十分丰厚、口感细致，

it is served with sudachi jelly made from

味道之好完全弥补了凶恶外观。北海

a Japanese fruit resembling a lime.

道毛蟹因蟹壳满布的刺毛而得名，常见于亚洲国家海域。传统上秋季为吃蟹的时节，蟹肉多汁、蟹黄丰厚绵密。主厨以「蟹中之王」来形容毛蟹：「北海道毛蟹风味之盛，在我职业生涯中尝过的螃蟹中居首位。它们生活于严酷的冰冷水域，亦因此让毛蟹的

蟹肉沙拉佐酢橘冻及杂锦渍物金主厨表示：「我想让食材发光发热，美味不打折扣。沙拉是一般客人最熟悉

味道不断积累鲜甜，而蟹肉比起其他

的料理，但要够精致讲究才行。」为了呈

蟹种也来得多。」根据科学研究显示，

现不同味道的鲜明对比，主厨把鲜味蟹身

海水温度较低时会刺激身体脂肪层生

肉撕成细条，味道独特微甜的蟹脚及蟹螯

成，一如牛肉和猪肉，蟹类也由脂肪保存风味，可让肉质多汁柔嫩。主厨

则保持原状大块。沙拉搭配小黄瓜、日本

表示：「螃蟹真的是变化性很多的食

大根、昆布及青葱多种渍物，再加上味

材，我常把蒸过的蟹肉用在寿司、生

道近似莱姆的日本酢橘冻，带来一丝爽

鱼片和沙拉等各式料理上。」

口柑橘清香，主厨的招牌菜大功告成。

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

INGREDIENTS

Freshwater Eel 日本鳗

When expertly grilled, the Japanese freshwater eel, known as unagi , is crispy on the outside, tender and succulent on the inside. It’s prized for its bold, rich flavor, but Anguilla japonica is also legendary for reputed stamina-building properties. “So many people love the flavor of eel,” says Kim, “but they’re hesitant to eat it, because it has so many bones. It’s tricky to work with and requires a lot of technical knowledge and skill to be able to handle it properly.” The biggest challenge, of course, is getting rid of the bones – all five hundred of them. “We learn the location of each one and the direction it grows in,” Kim explains. “I cut them up into about ten tiny pieces, so they just sort of dissolve into the meat during cooking.” Having performed the painstaking process a few thousand times, the chef is now an authority on the seven-hour ordeal. The secret to perfectly cooked eel is patience. To make sure the thick gelatinous skin crisps up without burning, the filleted fish is grilled skin side down over charcoal on very low heat for three to four hours.

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日本鳗（学名 Anguilla japonica，日文 unagi)，以纯熟技巧烤过后肉质呈外脆内软，非常多汁。除了不假修饰的丰富口感为人津津乐道，自古以来鳗鱼也享誉是耐力的结晶。主厨说：「鳗鱼的味道让很多人深深着迷，但细刺极多，真要吃不少人还有点却步。鳗鱼不太好下手，需要大量专业知识及技术才能处理得当。」其中最大的挑战当然「我们需是如何挑出有 500 根之多的细刺。他详细说明：学习每一根细刺的位置及生长的方向，我会把细刺切成十小部分，烹调时刺便会化掉融进鱼肉中。」此一细作需时七小时，主厨经过几千次的实习后俨然权威。料理鳗鱼秘诀无他，就是要有耐心。过程中要让富含胶质的鱼皮脆而不焦，鱼肉放在木炭炉上，鱼皮向下低温文火慢烤，需时约三至四小时。

Char-grilled freshwater eel

炭烤鳗鱼

“A lot of mundane work goes into preparing eel that people are never

很多人从不知道，烹调鳗鱼事前准备相当繁

aware of,” says Kim. “So I wanted to really attract attention and spotlight

琐，主厨强调：「所以我想透过特定画面

its importance with a dramatic scene.” After cooking it over charcoal,

吸引众人目光、展示其重要性。」经炭火烤

the chef plates the unagi atop a pedestal of charcoal logs and serves

过后的鳗鱼放在木炭条台上，搭配芥末、山

it with a trio of traditional Japanese condiments: wasabi, mountain

椒及柚子三种不可或缺的传统日式调味料。

pepper, and yuzu. “Because the eel has such a distinct and prominent

他解释：「鳗鱼味道独树一格，带点软烂的

taste, somewhat ‘muddy,’ I like to match it with clear, strong flavors,”

口感，适合搭配其他直接了当、后劲强的味

he says. “These three potent accompaniments stand up to the eel and

道。这三种劲呛调味料让鳗鱼味道更鲜明，

complement the dish very well.”

和整道菜搭配得很棒。」

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Baby Tuna 小金枪鱼

Bluefin tuna, especially coveted for its fatty belly meat, is the most highly prized ingredient of Japan. “Wherever you go in the world,” says Kim, “everybody brags about the size of their tuna, the bigger the better. I wanted to try something different here, to brag about how small my tuna is and showcase its mild flavor.” The meji maguro flown in from Tottori Prefecture, known for its superlative seafood, is famous for delicacy. Kim selects baby tuna weighing between twelve and twenty kilograms, and then ages the fish, just as with beef. “Tuna, after all, is basically the beef of the ocean. As soon as I get it, I make a cut to see how fresh it is – if it’s too fresh, the flavor just isn’t right, the texture isn’t right.” To allow the enzymes to break down the proteins and soften the tissues and muscles, Kim gives the tuna time to develop its rich ocean flavor by putting it on ice and keeping it at a steady 0°C. “The strike zone is very narrow,” he says. “If it goes below that temperature, the aging process stops, and if it goes above 2°C, bacteria can start to grow.” After six or seven days, the texture becomes tenderer, the flavor intensifies, and the color fades.

蓝鳍金枪鱼腹肉充满油脂，为日本最高价的食材，也是众人朝思暮想的美味。金主厨形容：「跑遍世界，到处都有人拿金枪鱼的大小来比较，越大越好，但我想反其道而行，向世人炫耀我的金枪鱼是小巧迷你，更有着独特和细腻的风味。」这金枪鱼从出产顶级海鲜闻名的日本鸟取县直送，味道相当细致。主厨挑好 12 到 20 公斤之间的小金枪鱼后「金枪鱼可说是海中的牛肉，到手我会先切一块让鱼肉熟成，就像牛肉一样。他解释：观察鲜度，太新鲜的话味道不对，也不是我想要的口感。」主厨将金枪鱼放在冰上熟成，温度维持在 0°C，让酵素分解蛋白质，软化组织及肌肉，以便鱼肉散发丰盈的海洋风味。他强调：「拿捏要很小心，温度低于 0°C 时熟成会停止，超过 2°C 细菌又会开始增生，真的是多一分少一毫都不行。」经过六至七天之后，鱼肉质会变得柔嫩、味道变浓，鱼身也会褪色。

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INGREDIENTS

Hay-smoked toro tataki

稻烧金枪鱼

Baby tuna belly is served sashimi style, very lightly seared over smoking hay that is a

取日本稻作中的稻草起火，幼金枪鱼腹肉于其上稍加烟

by-product of the Japanese rice crop. After having aged for a week, the flesh of the tuna has

熏炙烧后做成生鱼片上桌。幼金枪鱼经熟成一周后，肉

taken on a melting softness, with an almost indiscernible crispness to the outside. “In Japan,

质已臻入口即化的程度，同时带出些微爽口感。主厨解

bonito is what’s traditionally smoked with hay, but I really wanted to try the technique with

释：「在日本，传统常见的是稻烧鲣鱼，但我真的很想

a more premium ingredient,” says Kim. “The fatty flavor of the tuna belly goes beautifully

用更顶级的食材做做看。金枪鱼腹肉的油脂滋味恰好搭

with the smokiness from the hay.” For a showstopping presentation, the tuna is served atop

配稻烧的烟熏味。」金枪鱼上桌时置于闷烧的稻草堆

a smoldering mound of hay that fills the dining room with its fragrance.

中，满室都是稻烧味，别出心裁的摆盘令人惊艳不已。

INGREDIENTS

Abalone 鲍鱼

Japan’s long love affair with abalone goes back to ancient times and emperor Qin Shi Huang’s quest for immortality. Ever since, the shellfish, said to bestow longevity, have been part of folklore and the nation’s celebratory traditions. Today, they’re still gathered by female divers, known as ama , who plunge into the frigid abyss wearing only a loincloth and goggles. Thought by some to be an aphrodisiac and by others to confer good luck, their flavor has always been the real draw. What abalone lack in looks, they make up for in taste: buttery and salty, succulent and sweet, with a texture between scallops and squid. While admittedly on the list of acquired tastes, the delicacy, which is actually a type of marine snail, is considered one of the most prestigious ingredients in the world, most especially in Japan. Chef Kim prefers blacklip abalone from Shizuoka Prefecture, so named because the edge of the muscle that’s eaten is black, perhaps from its diet of black sea kelp. “When I choose an abalone,” he says, “it’s all about how active it is – I want it really alive. Although I don’t serve it as sashimi, the more life it has, the more flavor there will be when it’s cooked.”

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日本人对鲍鱼爱不释手，最早可以追溯至古代秦始皇追求长生不老时。自此这一据传有长寿功效的贝类动物便成为民俗文化及喜庆传统的一环。直至今日，鲍鱼仍由名为「海女」的女性渔民，穿戴束带及潜水镜潜入寒冷的海底深渊摘取。除有些人认为鲍鱼可以壮阳或带来好运外，其味道仍是最大的诱人之处。鲍鱼外表的不足全以其无比美味弥补；有着多汁甜香、咸香及奶油般滋味，其口感介于扇贝及墨鱼之间。然而鲍鱼的味道通常需要花一点时间才能适应，这珍馐实际上可说是海蜗牛的一种，是名列全球最顶级的食材之一，对于日本人来说更是如此。主厨偏爱日本静冈县出产的黑唇鲍鱼，此种鲍鱼一如其名，可食用的底部肌肉呈黑色，可能是以黑色「选鲍鱼时我主要看新鲜程度，海藻为主食所致。他说：活跳跳的最好。虽然不会把它们做成生鱼片，但越新鲜，烹调的时候味道便会越浓厚。」

Teppanyaki abalone

铁板鲍鱼

To achieve perfectly cooked abalone, Chef Kim steams the mollusks at high

为了达到最完美的程度，金主厨将鲍鱼放入压力

temperature for six hours in a pressure cooker and then removes the meat from the

锅高温蒸煮六小时后取出并把壳肉分离，接着原

shell. He combines the liver and other internal organs with the cooking liquid, blends

锅中加入肝脏及其他原内脏类，混和均匀后倒入

the mixture, adds sake and soy sauce, and reduces it to a thickened sauce. While it’s

清酒及酱油，收干并做成浓厚丰厚的酱汁。然后

cooking down, he pops the meat back in to double cook it and allow it to reabsorb the

他把鲍鱼放进煮第二次，让它吸收所有精华。主

flavors. “When you cook abalone, you can lose a lot of that beautiful ocean essence,”

厨说：「烹调鲍鱼时很容易流失了其细腻的海鲜

he says. “But by simmering it again in its own juices, we’re able to preserve all of the

味，而把鲍鱼放入原汁中再次熬煮，味道就能通

taste.” After slow cooking for two hours to bring the liquid to the right consistency,

通保存下来。」酱汁经慢煮两小时后浓稠适中，

the meat is finished off on the teppanyaki grill and served with the juices and an

鲍鱼最后再放上铁板炙烤，搭配酱汁及大蒜酱即

accompaniment of garlic sauce.

可上桌。

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

PHOTO ESSAY

知鱼于渔

Follow the Fish From briny deep to bouillabaisse, chef David Lai, writer Mamie Chen, and photographers David Hartung and Timon Wehrli trace the journey of Hong Kong’s daily catch.

TIMON WEHRLI

David Lai 黎子安

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follow the fish

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Sea

WE’VE BEEN ON STANDBY for weeks, waiting for a day when everybody’s availability coincided with a favorable weather forecast. Now, with half a day’s notice, we meet with David Lai in Central to catch an early morning ferry for Cheung Chau, an outlying island that serves as home base for some of the local fishing community. Hong Kong, despite its transformation into an international finance center with one of the highest population densities in the world, has remained true to its origins as a small fishing village. Over the centuries, the SAR’s love of seafood has never waned. The average resident consumes 72.2 kg per year, and local fishing boats still provide around a tenth of Hong Kong’s supply. But making a livelihood as a fisherman in Hong Kong is more challenging than ever. The local waters, home to thousands of

TK | follow the fish

species, have been depleted through overfishing, water pollution, and destruction of habitat. Four years ago, in an attempt to reverse the dire trends, the government joined a handful of nations in banning trawling, which formerly accounted for 80 percent of fishing in Hong Kong. An unsustainable practice in which nets are dragged along the sea floor, trawling damages the seabed ecology and indiscriminately entraps unwanted by-catch along with the targeted species. Post-ban research reveals early signs of recovery among species like the sea bream and croaker. But the legislation forced affected fishermen to make a hard choice between taking a payout for their boats and retiring, refitting their boats and retraining for eco-tourism, or sailing further out to trawl beyond Hong Kong waters.

TIMON WEHRL (3)

PHOTO ESSAY

我们已待命数周，等待大伙儿都有空，加上天公作美、海面气象佳的日子才可一起出海。出发前半天接到可以起行的通知，我们立即和黎子安主厨约好在中环碰头，赶搭一大早的渡船往香港外围的长洲岛出发，一探在地渔业汇集之处。香港从当初的小渔村跃身一变成为金融中心，人口密度全球数一数二，然而却从未失去最初本色。数百年来，香港人对于海鲜的热爱从未有一天消退。香港市民平均每人每年吃掉 72.2 公斤海鲜，本地渔获仍占全港总供应量的十分之一。不过现今想在香港靠捕鱼维生，可是挑战极大。孕育几千种海洋物种的地区水域因过度捕捞

导致鱼类资源逐渐枯竭，也面临水污染及栖息地遭受破坏等威胁。为了扭转岌岌可危的情势，四年前香港政府加入少数几个国家行列，共同禁止拖捞捕鱼，而此前在香港高达八成均为拖捞作业。由于捞网在海底拖行，对海床生态会造成破坏，而过程中，除了目标鱼种外，其他生物也难以避免地会一同捕获到网中，离永续性捕鱼方式相去甚远。禁令生效后的研究显示，像海鲷及石首鱼等鱼种数量已有初步恢复的迹象。不过法令强制执行却让渔夫陷入两难，是要把船卖了拿笔钱退役、让渔船改装，接受生态旅游训练培育；抑或航行到离香港水域更远的外海继续拖捞作业？ follow the fish

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PHOTO ESSAY

TIMON WEHRL (3)

OUR HOST FOR THE DAY, Mr. Fong, chose the last option, and with all the nets, ropes, and other trawling accoutrements, we set sail for Chinese waters near the Wanshan Archipelago. After Fong and his three deckhands cast the large net, we trawl for two hours with ropes stretched tightly behind. Then with a sudden flurry of activity, the men haul in the net, releasing the catch onto the deck. Crabs, shrimp, squid, and fish are quickly sorted into separate baskets, the remainder is dumped back in the sea, and the nets are dropped for a second round. Luck is sadly not in Fong’s favor today. The catch is low in both volume and value, not unsurprising as we head into low season, although Lai has sailed from Tuen Mun and caught goodsized sea bream at this time of year. He judges today’s fish to be better for bouillabaisse than a catch-of-the-day dish. Fong decides to cut his losses and return to Cheung Chau, hours ahead of schedule and with only about HKD2000 worth of seafood to cover the fixed costs for the day’s foray.

带我们出海的方师傅选择了后者，确认齐备拖捞所需的渔网、绳索及其他工具后，我们便朝万山群岛附近的中国海前进。方师傅及船上三个甲板手撒下巨大渔网，把船尾后的绳索往外散开。拖捞了约两小时后，众人匆忙干活起来，开始收网，把网中渔获倒在甲板上。水手们个个手脚俐落，将螃蟹、虾子、墨鱼及不同鱼种分类放进不同篮内，剩下的则放回海中，再撒渔网，进行第二次捕获。不过看来师傅今天运气不太好，渔获数量及品质都有点差强人意，虽说不难预料，因此时正值淡季，但之前在同个时节黎主厨也曾从屯门出海，捉到大小令人满意的海鲷。他也因此判断，今天的鱼用来煮马赛鱼汤会比做成当日精选渔获来品尝来得恰当。见情况不乐观，方师傅决定减少损失，提前数个小时返回长洲，本日渔获所得 2,000 港币，仅仅和当日出海的固定成本打平。

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PHOTO ESSAY

AS DAVID LAI, chef of seafood specialty restaurant Fish School, leads us through the Ap Lei Chau Market, we can see that he’s in his element. For years, he’s been a near-daily visitor to one fish market or another around Hong Kong – Tai Po, Sheung Wan, Mongkok – making purchases for his restaurants. Even when we were waiting to board the boat in Cheung Chau, he couldn’t resist slipping into the fish market to see what was on offer and snap some pictures with his phone. What started out as random shots has turned into a photo library numbering in the tens of thousands. “I go to the market every day anyway,” says Lai, “so I figured I’d make a journal to track the seasons and see when certain species appear and disappear. Over two or three years, I could see the larger pattern. Maybe one day I’ll publish a book to document the locally caught fish that pass through.”

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海鲜专门餐厅「Fish School」黎子安主厨领着我们穿梭鸭脷洲市场，一副常客，熟悉的样子。多年来，他几乎天天都往香港大埔、上环及旺角等地的鱼市场为餐厅采购新鲜渔获。即使在长洲等着上船时，他也忍不住溜去鱼市场看看有什么渔获，同时用手机拍照纪录。不经意的拍照习惯经年累月，他已摄有数万张照片，收藏丰富。主厨表示：「反正我每天都上鱼市场，就想着做个日志追踪一下不同季节的渔获情形，看有哪些鱼种会出现、哪些会消失。两三年之后，我大概可以抓到趋势。或许有一天，我可以出版纪录本地渔获的专书。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Market

PHOTO ESSAY

TK | follow the fish

LAI STROLLS PAST STALLS, chatting with vendors, peering into tanks and bins. He points out various species to us, easily distinguishing the local from the imported, the farmed from the wild-caught. By and large, uniformity of size is the easiest way to identify fish and crabs that have been farmed. And then there are his expertlevel details: “Wild sea bream tend to have longer pectoral fins…these sole are farmed – wild ones have a different color…this fish must be wild-caught because it isn’t commercial enough to farm…those crabs are farmed – you can tell by the size and the string they’re bound with.” He pauses in front of a stall with a pair of spottedtail morwong and a spotted knifejaw, both rare and highly sought-after, what he describes as “local fish royalty.” Unfortunately, the fish is on ice rather than live in a tank, reducing market value by half. “Locals put a big premium on these being kept alive. Once they die, they go into rigor mortis and the texture really changes. “We’re having a very good harvest of bamboo shrimp this year,” he cheerfully notes. Asked to clarify if he means high volume or good quality, Lai shares another pearl of wisdom: “Usually, quantity means quality – so when it’s good, it’s also inexpensive.”

主厨穿过一间又一间摊位和摊商聊天，一边瞄着鱼缸及水桶看看有什么好货。他向我们介绍不同鱼种，以及如何分辨地方及进口鱼，又或养殖及野生鱼的诀窍。大致来说，养殖鱼和螃蟹体型较为统一，相当容易辨识。他也向我们分享专家级秘诀，说道：「野生海鲷胸鳍较长；这比目鱼是养殖的，因为野生的颜色不一样；那种鱼由于大量养殖不划算，所以一定是海上抓的；而这些螃蟹则是养殖场来的，看大小和身上绑绳就知道。」来到一鱼摊前，主厨驻足，盯着兩条「鹰斑鲷鱼」及「斑石鲷」看，这两种都是众人求之不得的罕见鱼种，有「本地鱼皇」之称。可惜它们放在冰上待售，而非在鱼缸的活鱼，市场价值当下就锐减一半：「在地人爱活鱼，认为它们更优质，因鱼一旦死亡，鱼肉变僵，肉质就大不相同了。」 DAVID HARTUNG

突然他话锋一转、语带欣喜表示：「今年竹节虾渔获量极佳」，我们接着问大厨口中说的是产量还是品质时，他语带经验表示：「一般而言，数量代表品质－品质好的时候，通常价钱也不贵。」

follow the fish

TK |

DAVID HARTUNG

Plate

TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

PHOTO ESSAY

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

David Lai 黎子安

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PHOTO ESSAY

LA I S EES HI S MI S S I O N at Fish School as protecting and promoting local wild-caught seafood as much as possible, but also as lending support to members of the nearby fishing communities, from fishermen to fishmongers. Ultimately, his intention of giving diners a true sense of connection with the local seafood supply is reflected in both the selection and presentation of the product. “In general we try to serve our fish whole, so our guests can see what they’re eating,” says Lai. “We want it to be a food that people can relate to, especially since top-quality seafood is becoming such a scarce resource.” Around 70 percent of the dishes at Fish School headline locally sourced products, much of which is wild-caught, prepared with a minimalist approach that lets the ingredients speak for themselves. Lai ponders over a spottedtail morwong and decides to steam it in a sea kelp packet. Chinese diners might have expected to see the locally prized fish delicately steamed and then topped with soy sauce, ginger, scallions, and fresh cilantro and drizzled with sizzling hot oil. But Lai feels the traditional Cantonese style overpowers the fish’s natural sea-urchin-like iodine flavor from its diet of seaweed and small shellfish. He steams it whole with the scales intact to preserve the taste in the layer of fat under the skin. The kelp packet and an accompanying sea urchin sauce further reinforce and highlight the natural essence of the fish. “My goal is to bring out its character as much as possible.” Local seasonal shrimps are grilled in similarly simple fashion over charcoal until their thin shells become brittle enough to eat whole in all their crispy, lightly charred glory. The smoky aroma absorbed by the shells and meat complements the seafood’s natural sweetness without much need for additional seasoning. Altogether, there are seven or eight different species of comparably sized shrimp that rotate in and out of season. “The velvet shrimp is in season now, and what will come next is unpredictable,” says Lai. “But there will be something.”

黎子安主厨在「Fish School」以保护并推广

油滋滋作响地上桌，不过传统粤式作法在主厨

在地野生渔获为宗旨，同时也大力协助邻近

眼里却有点抢戏，由于鹰斑鲷鱼以海草及小型

地区渔业的所有成员，包括渔夫及鱼贩。他

贝类为主食，所以鱼会带有如野生海胆般的碘

致力透过精选食材及摆盘，让客人与在地海

味。主厨将整条鱼清蒸，连鱼鳞都没刮，以在

鲜产生共鸣。

烹调过程中保留皮下脂肪层的味道。而包裹的

他进一步说明：「很多时我们都坚持把鲜

海草及搭配的海胆酱更突出了鱼天然赋予的滋

鱼原条烹煮处理，这样客人就可更了解自己

味，让味道更有层次。他说明：「我就是要展

吃的是什么。尤其现在一流品质的海鲜资源

示出鱼独有的原味，越多越好。」

越来越少，我们希望菜式可令人产生联系。」

地方时令鲜虾则是简单地以碳烧，直至

「Fish School」约七成的菜式都以在地食材为

薄透虾壳变脆，便可连肉带壳食用，口感酥

主角，且绝大多数为野生鲜渔获，海产在厨

脆同时可尝到微焦的美妙滋味。此外，渗入

房只以最简单的方式烹调，让食材原有的味

虾壳及鲜虾肉的烟熏气味与虾子的甜味交融，

道发光发亮。

即使无须其他调味就让人回味再三。菜单中，

此时主厨正在考虑要如何料理鹰斑鲷鱼，

共有七到八种大小相仿、品种不同的当令虾

最后他决定把鱼裹覆海草来清蒸。尝惯中餐

子轮替入菜。主厨说道：「现在赤虾正当季，

的客人可能预期此一珍稀本地鲜鱼会经细细蒸

接下来是什么很难预计，但定会出现值得期

煮，加入酱油、姜、葱及鲜芫荽，最后淋上热

待的。」 follow the fish

TK |

CHEF LAI’S BOUILLABAISSE is the crowning culmination of a long effort to chronicle the journey of local catches from sea to market to plate. His dish, like the traditional Provençal fish stew, combines different types of small fish and shellfish with hearty vegetables and the distinct flavors imparted by a bouquet garni of saffron and fennel. “With bouillabaisse, it’s very important to have a good variety of seafood,” says Lai, “but the overall harmony is more important than the individual flavors. Some people add the local mantis shrimp to their fish stew, but I think it ends up taking over the whole dish.” Instead, the chef favors milderflavored imported lobster to act as the visual centerpiece. The exact species Lai includes vary from day to day, depending always on the fishermen’s luck and what may happen to take his eye at the market. He takes particular pleasure in making appealing dishes that feature the underrated serendipitous small fry of the catch. And it’s precisely these capricious and unforeseeable qualities of the wild-caught that keep Lai sailing the seas, surveying the markets time and again, and sharing finds that are uniquely Hong Kong.

这趟在地渔获之旅，从早到晚，从海上到鱼市，最后在餐桌前由主厨烹调的马赛鱼汤掀起最高潮。他的鱼汤类似普罗旺斯传统炖鱼作法，把不同种类小鱼及贝类融合其中，再搭配营养丰富的蔬菜，最后再加入一撮蕃红花及茴香引出独特的风味。黎主厨介绍菜式时强调：「马赛鱼汤一定要使用多种品质一流的海鲜，整体味道能否融合比起个别食材美味与否更为关键。有人喜欢在菜式中加上在地的虾蛄，但上桌时不免有点喧宾夺主之感。」反之，他选用味道较为温和的进口龙虾替代，这也同时成了菜式的主视觉元素。黎主厨选用的食材每天都不相同，取决于渔夫出海捕鱼的运道，和他在市场精挑细选的收获成果。而主厨尤其乐于使用，无意中找到且被低估的小鱼来烹制引人入胜的美也因为野生海鲜如此变换莫测及不可预期，让主厨深深着迷，驱使他屡屡出海、寻访鱼市场，务求和饕客分享香港独一无二的海鲜滋味。

TK | follow the fish

DAVID HARTUNG

味佳肴。 Bouillabaisse 马赛鱼汤

PHOTO ESSAY

follow the fish

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永利皇宫路氹新据点: 大师料理天然美馔

Masterfully Authentic at Wynn Palace Cotai Eight master chefs commingle multiple genres of Japanese cuisine without any compromise at Mizumi in the newly opened Wynn Palace. Details in Mizumi’s design and architecture reveal much about the overarching dining concept of this new Japanese restaurant at Wynn Palace on Cotai, Macau. The contemporary rock garden and stylized Japanese courtyard marking the entrance reflect the convergence of timeless tradition and modern innovation in the culinary philosophy of Executive Chef Min Kim. Serving as focal point in the main dining room is a gilded cherry tree sculpture whose light display cycles through the four seasons, emphasizing the significance of the seasonally driven menu. And Sushi Mizumi’s bar countertop, honed from rare hinoki cypress wood revered for its organic texture and fragrance, perfectly complements the natural flavors of ingredients delicately preserved and presented with Kim’s refined touch. § 澳门路

氹永利皇宫新开幕的「泓」日本料理餐厅内部设计细节丰富，从中即可看到餐厅推祟的多元餐饮理念。穿过餐厅入口的石景花园，可来到风格独具的日式庭院，各式元素正好反映行政主厨金旻炯融合经典传统及当代创新的烹饪哲学。踏进主用餐区，一棵矗立中央的镀金樱花树雕塑就是专门供应寿司的「鮨泓」，寿司台以珍稀的扁柏木制成，带著天然的纹路和香气，和在桌上经主厨悉心料理呈现的鲜味食材相互映衬。

BARBARA CRAFT

成为焦点所在，伴随以四季更替为主轴的光影效果呈现，跟主厨的季节菜单不谋而合。往内走

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

Mizumi’s team of chefs

SAMANTHA SIN

「泓」日本料理的厨师团队

IF THE THOUGHTS of Executive Chef Min Kim concerning Mizumi are dominated by one single concept, it must surely be omotenashi, the spirit and essence of Japanese hospitality, where he and his team’s wholehearted solicitude for their customers’ overall experience is of utmost importance. Indeed, Kim delights his customers by anticipating their needs and bringing together authentic dining experiences from a variety of Japanese culinary genres in a single fine-dining destination. “In Japan, restaurants specialize in only one thing, like sushi, tempura, or teppanyaki. And that’s great, because the chefs are able to be masters at what they do. But it isn’t convenient for guests who want to try a little of everything,” he says.

Mizumi boasts an entire team of master chefs: four sushi chefs, two teppenyaki chefs, and one tempura chef, as well as Master Ramen Chef Shiroma Shun at Hanami Ramen next door. Shun studied in Tokyo under Chef Yuki Onishi of Michelinstarred Tsuta before coming to Wynn Palace Cotai. “At Hanami, I use a clear soup called chintan,” says Shun.“I spent a lot of time searching for the best ingredients – freerange chickens, Silky fowl, niboshi dried fish, and soy sauce from Kaneiwa.” Sushi Master Chef Tomohiro Okazaki is just as relentless in his pursuit of perfection, having started his twenty-one-year career at a renowned two-Michelin-starred sushi restaurant in Sapporo. “I import carefully selected ingredients from Japan, especially

行政主厨金旻炯认为，如果只用一个概念来总结「泓」的理念，那必定是日本专祟的诚心款待之道 (omotenashi)。为此金主厨和他的团队衷心希望，能为来这里用餐的宾客带来难忘的美食体验。确实，主厨会仔细考量客人的期待，并致力呈现最正宗的用餐体验，各色多样的日式美馔可在「泓」一次过享用 :「在日本，餐厅都各自专攻单一料理，如只做寿司、天妇罗或铁板烧。这是好现象，因为师傅们可以专注钻研其烹调技艺，但却不能满足每样都希望尝一点的客人。」为了呈现正宗日本料理，永利皇宫聘请了不同日式料理专业的「职人」在「泓」坐镇，各司其职，团队包括四位寿司师傅，两位铁板烧师傅 follow the fish

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厨师精选

DAVID HARTUNG

Omakase

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

BARBARA KRAFT

Sushi Mizumi 「鮨泓」

from Hokkaido,” he says. “I want my customers to taste authentic flavors and say, ‘Ah, this is Japanese sushi!’” Okazaki is wellversed in the time-honored traditions of Edomae-style sushi that forms the perfect marriage between fish and rice. He expertly cures shime saba with vinegar and salt to balance and brighten mackerel’s natural flavor and delicately infuses the outermost layer of his maguro zuke don with soy sauce and mirin flavors, allowing the inside to retain its tender, raw texture. Guests may choose to sit at either Sushi Mizumi’s intimate fourteen-seat bar or at

及一位天妇罗师傅，就连旁边的花悦拉面也有专业拉面师傅 Shiroma Shun 负责。来永利皇宫前，Shiroma Shun 在东京米其林拉面店「茑」跟随厨师 Yuki Onishi 学习 :「花悦拉面用的清汤是我花费许久寻找最好的材料熬制而成的，当中包括走地鸡，泰和鸡，鱼干及『岩』 (Kaneiwa) 酱油。」寿司师傅 Tomohiro Okazaki 二十一年的料理生涯始于札幌一间著名的米其林二星的餐厅，他对完美有着不懈的追求。「我用的材料经过精挑细选，从日本，特别是从北海道进口。希望我的客人在尝到这最正宗的口味时会说 :『啊 ! 这就

是日本寿司。』」他精通以江户前传统寿司的风格，让鱼生和寿司饭完美融合。只见他熟练地用醋和盐来腌制鲭鱼，以平衡和提升鲭鱼的天然滋味；另一边厢则以酱油和味醂浸泡鲔鱼的最外层，从而保存鱼肉底层柔软，原始的质感。来到「泓」的客人可以自行选择坐在仅有十四个座位的「鮨泓」寿司吧或其中一个铁板烧区前，近距离享受师傅们正宗「omakase」全权安排的美食体验。客人也可以在主用餐区享用单点料理，单点餐单提供各种日式佳肴，更包括厨房特设的传统现点天妇罗。 follow the fish

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Kuruma Prawns, Asparagus, and Sweet Potato Tempura 天妇罗班节虾、露荀及红薯

one of two teppenyaki grills and have an authentic omakase experience with any of the master chefs. Or they can sit in the main dining room and order from an à la carte menu that draws from all the genres, including a traditional tempura station set up in the kitchen. The menu also takes pride in introducing a taste of the traditional kaiseki experience,

TK | follow the fish

which in traditional Japanese cooking has the longest history. But modern diners can sometimes find it very slow and almost too refined. Mizumi has created a kaiseki experience that is suitable for à la carte dining, more flexible and a lot easier for guests to enjoy. In line with the spirit of omotenashi, the restaurant has provided a way for guests to sample kaiseki dishes without

being required to partake of a full multicourse menu. While the portion sizes of Mizumi’s kaiseki dishes are a little more generous than what is traditional, the authentic flavors, the emphasis on seasonality, and the meticulous presentation remain the same. With painstaking thoroughness, the chefs use tweezers to remove over two hundred tiny bones from the char-grilled freshwater eel. Then they slowly grill it over low charcoal heat so the skin gets crispy and the meat remains moist and tender. The ultimate goal with every genre of Japanese cuisine served at Mizumi is to express the natural flavors of the original ingredients in the best possible way. For example, in the case of the kuruma prawn tempura, the seafood is jet-flown from Japan and prepared as soon as possible by simply deep-frying it with the lightest batter and giving it just a bit of seasoning to enhance the natural sweetness of the prawns. Teppanyaki Master Chef Hiroshi Yamaguchi has over twenty-three years of experience. “I was captured by the beauty of teppanyaki,” he says, “and by how enjoyable and fulfilling it is to cook while directly communicating with customers.” He points out Mizumi’s Ishigaki wagyu A5 steak that comes with its own certificate to verify its history, origins, and ancestry. The most premium grade of beef in Japan, the steak is grilled very simply by Yamaguchi and served with pickled Japanese plums, garlic sauce, and sea salt from Okinawa. Kim, who is also trained in French cooking, revels in the purity of Japanese food. “Other cuisines modify the intrinsic flavors and textures of a dish’s ingredients by applying techniques that turn them into something very different,” he says. “But Japanese cooking is all about keeping those beautiful innate qualities – those gifts we get from nature – and presenting the original elements on the plate without compromising their essence.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

Teppanyaki Ishigaki wagyu A5 steak served with pickled Japanese plums, garlic sauce, and sea salt from Okinawa 铁板烧A5 等级石垣和牛配日本梅子、蒜蓉酱及冲绳海盐

「泓」也供应在传统日式餐饮中历史最为悠远的正统怀石料理 , 但对现今的客人来说，供餐步调有点太慢 , 甚或精炼到令人却步。所以「泓」为客人创作了即使单点用餐也能享受的怀石体验 , 调整空间较大 , 客人享用起来也比较容易。基于「诚心款待」的精神 ,「泓」让客人无须点用全套也能一尝怀石料理的美妙滋味。餐厅内的怀石料理较传统份量来得更大，但正宗的日式风味、当令食材运用以及细致入微的摆盘可是跟传统一样，如实呈现。贯彻彻底细致的精神，师傅用镍子将鲜鳗鱼身上超过两百条的细刺一一取出，再以低温慢慢碳烤，让外皮酥脆，同时鱼肉保持湿润鲜嫩，追求尽善尽美的程度可见一斑。对于餐厅供应的各种日式料理 , 天妇

罗师傅的目标无他 , 就是要用最好的方式 , 呈现食材的天然滋味。拿斑节虾天妇罗来说 , 食材从日本直送到此之后 , 备料时间会压缩到最短 , 虾子裹上轻薄面衣放下油锅 , 随后加些微调味提出虾子的自然鲜甜即可上桌。铁板烧区的主厨 Hiroshi Yamaguchi 有二十三年的料理经验，他说 :「我被铁板烧的美丽所吸引，能够一边烹调一边与顾客沟通是多么的享受及满足。」他指出「泓」的 A5 等级石垣和牛，牛肉经认证，从生产履历、来源及血统，都保证纯正。在日本这是最高等级的牛肉，主厨也尽量简单烹调。牛肉经铁板煎过后，搭配日本梅子、蒜蓉酱及冲绳海盐就可上桌。曾受过专业法式烹饪训练的金主厨对于日式料理的纯粹称道不已。他说明 :「其他菜系常见运用各式技巧调整食材原本的

味道及口感，但完工后食材的原貌已相去甚远。而日式料理则致力于保存食材原有的美妙特质，那是来自大自然的馈赠，要把原有的精髓完美地展示。」

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Reservations 订座热线: +853 8889 3663, wynnpalace.com follow the fish

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澳门路氹永利皇宫：以现代手法演绎经典

A Playful Take on Authentic Flavors at Wynn Palace Cotai Regional Chinese flavors meet show-stopping contemporary presentations at Andrea’s in the newly opened Wynn Palace Cotai. The designers of Andrea’s, Wynn Palace Cotai’s chic contemporary Chinese restaurant, faithfully carry out the luxury resort’s overarching floral motif by delivering a stylized interpretation of a summer garden, complete with abstract flowers, butterflies, and parasols. The entryway features a striking glass mosaic wall of vibrantly colored parasols flanked by floor-to-ceiling golden latticework niches filled with blossoms arranged in an ombré pattern. Glittering mosaic walls of oversize butterflies surround the intimate bar. And in the main dining area, classic gold tones are accentuated by a variety of rich textures: polished marble floors, plush parasol-patterned carpet, metallic leather, and paneled latticework of mother-ofpearl capiz shells.

§ 澳门路氹永利皇宫时尚现代中餐厅「逸蝶轩」的设计团队运用花卉、蝴蝶

及阳伞等元素把餐厅打造成独树一帜的夏日花园，和所在豪华度假酒店花团锦簇的主轴不谋而变色调排列的花朵点缀其中。吧台区气氛宜人，闪闪发亮的马赛克墙以蝴蝶图案缀成。主要用餐区则以金色为主调，搭配光滑的大理石地板、华丽的阳伞图案地毯、金属色皮革以及珍珠贝母等多种元素装饰，视觉效果细致丰富。

TK | follow the fish

BARBARA KRAFT

合。入口即可见色彩缤纷的巨幅玻璃马赛克墙，两侧的金色花格壁饰自地面延伸至天花板，渐

DAVID HARTUNG

Hangzhou Glacier 51 Toothfish Stone Bowl with Zhenjiang Vinegar, Ice Plant, Yuan’s Soy 杭州风味石砵南极深海齿鱼佐镇江香醋，冰草，颐和园酱油

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

Coconut Almond, Sorbet, Praline 天使之泪：椰子、杏仁、雪芭、果仁糖

TK | follow the fish

DAVID HARTUNG

PRESENTED BY WYNN PALACE COTAI

BEFORE ANDREA ’S EVER OPENED , the culinary team, experienced chefs drawn from provinces all over China, were busy t raveling across the country to research Sichuan, Huaiyang, Hangzhou, and Suzhou cuisines, to explore authentic local flavors, and to discover new ingredients. In the Yunan mushroom market, they were delighted to find an abundance of fresh bamboo pith, an ingredient many had previously seen only in its dried form. In the Chengdu spice market, they were amazed by the sheer variety of what was available: Sichuan peppercorns, chili peppers, chili pastes, pickled chilies, and all manner of dried herbs. Day after day, they visited one restaurant after another, meeting scores of chefs and sampling dishes by the dozen. While touring the Jiangsu province and delving into Huaiyang cuisine, the team tried more than twenty different interpretations and incarnations of the famous Suzhoustyle smoked-fish dish. It was a favorite that remained on the radar of Sous Chef Zhang Wen Lin when new ideas were being formulated back home at Andrea’s. “For me, the most important thing is to ensure that guests really experience the true essence

of Huaiyang cuisine,” says Zhang, whose impressive resume includes a stint as Head Chef at two-Michelin-starred Tim’s Kitchen in Shanghai. Before any dish can hope to make it onto the menu, the chefs must lend it their own contemporary slant. Finding the river fish traditionally used to be too muddy in taste, too flaky in texture, and too annoyingly full of small bones, Zhang replaces it with Glacier 51 Toothfish from the southern Indian Ocean near the Antarctic. It’s a firm-textured fish with a clean, sweet flavor, and, although the cooking process remains the same, the Glacier 51’s natural fattiness protects it better from potential overcooking and drying out. He also lightens the traditional sauce and offsets some of its sweetness by pairing the fish with pickled baby cucumbers from Shanghai. The result is a well-balanced dish that remains recognizable to Chinese guests and true to its origins. The goal is to deliver authentic flavors while putting the focus on good produce and interesting cooking methods. So, rather than boiling away an ingredient as might have traditionally been done, the chefs in Andrea’s will try slow-cooking in vacuum bags and treating it more gently.

在「逸蝶轩」开幕前 , 来自全国各省富厨艺经验的餐饮团队便已走遍大半个中国去研究四川、淮扬、杭州及苏州等地方的菜系 , 务求发掘正宗的地道口味和搜寻新颖的食材。他们过往只看过竹笙干 , 这次却惊喜地在云南的香菇市场发现了大量的新鲜竹笙食材。来到成都香料市场 , 种类繁多的各式辛香料也让他们大开眼界 : 如四川花椒、辣椒、辣椒酱、腌辣椒以及各式药草干货 , 应有尽有。日复一日 , 团队逐家餐厅登门造访 , 和各家大厨见面 , 试菜动辄十数次之多。旅经江苏省研究淮扬菜时 , 光是苏州熏鱼这道经典菜式 , 他们就品尝了超过二十次 , 每次均以不同的料理手法与样式呈现。副主厨张云林相当喜欢这道菜 , 回到「逸蝶轩」构思新菜单时也总会想起它。他拥有丰富

经验 , 曾于上海米其林二星餐厅桃花源小厨担任主厨。他说 :「对我来说 , 最重要的是确保食客体验到淮扬菜的精髓。」而在准备菜单时 , 团队坚持要把强烈的现代风格挹注于推出的菜色中。张副主厨发现地方传统常用的河鱼肉质较为软烂、口感不够扎实 , 加上细刺多 , 吃来不够畅快 , 因而改用南印度洋接近南极的深海齿鱼来入菜。这种鱼口感紧实、味道清爽香甜 , 而且富含天然油脂 , 使用相同步骤烹饪时 , 即便煮过头肉质也不易变老。他也为此调配了更清新的酱汁 , 搭配产自上海的腌渍嫩黄瓜 , 更显鲜甜。最终成果风味均衡 , 整道菜式以传统作法烹调 , 依旧是客人尝得到的熟悉味道。匠心独运，目标就是既呈现正统口味 , 也能凸显好食材及不同料理方式的独到之处。比起传统 follow the fish

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Hangzhou’s iconic “beggar’s chicken” is reinvented by replacing the bird with USDA Prime grain-fed beef ribs. Senior Sous Chef Peter Ji Bin, whose career includes several years at a top Chinese restaurant in Germany, is passionate about the cuisine of his native region. “There’s no cutting corners in my philosophy,” he says, “but I’m creative in my approach to food presentation.” Instead of wrapping the beef in a lotus leaf, covering it with ash, and cooking it in the ground, he first marinates the beef, then Cryovacs it and slow-cooks it for thirty-six hours at 63°C. The tender ribs are served in the classic lotus leaf and accompanied by spring onions and pancakes made with Mangalica smoked pork lard. The wok-fried minced pigeon is an authentically flavored spicy Sichuan dish that is commonly eaten with a bowl of rice to temper the heat. Instead, Sous Chef Liu Shi Hai pairs the minced pigeon with soft egg, serving it on top of a chawanmushi-like custard. As guests cut into the dish, they are able to enjoy the hot

TK | follow the fish

and spicy pigeon along with some cooling effect from the egg. Liu, who has been cooking Sichuan cuisine at notable hotels and restaurants for nearly two decades, has a simple mantra that defines his approach: “Respect the produce and highlight its natural flavor rather than hiding it.” At Andrea’s, the chefs successfully maintain a delicate balance between tradition and innovation with their reinterpretations of classic dishes, sometimes injecting a new unexpected ingredient or delighting guests with contemporary plating and presentation. The coconut dessert, for instance, is served in a chocolate shell etched on the outside to resemble that of a coconut. Inside is an almond biscuit with coconut mousse, topped with fresh young coconut meat, dried coconut, and an additional quenelle of the refreshing sorbet. A magnificently elongated cloche of ice covers the dessert, giving guests a tantalizing glimpse through the crystalline surface of what awaits within.

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DAVID HARTUNG

Wok-fried minced pigeon with egg custard, water chestnuts, and pickled vegetables 乳鸽松佐竹笙、蛋酱、马蹄

烹调手法直接汆烫食材 ,「逸蝶轩」的团队会尝试把食材放在真空包中悉心慢煮。著名杭州菜式「叫化鸡」也在此获全新演绎 , 使用同样烹调方式 , 主角却变成美国农业部极佳级谷饲牛肋骨。曾在德国顶级中式餐厅工作过几年的高级副主厨季斌对他的家乡菜充满热情。他说 :「我的料理哲学中没有捷径这回事 , 摆盘亦是独具心裁。」厨师不循用荷花叶包裹、覆上泥灰再放进地炉烘烤的传统作法 , 而是真空包装腌过的牛肉 , 并以摄氏 63 度慢煮 36 小时。软嫩牛肋上桌时盛于荷花叶上 , 搭配曼加利擦猪烟熏猪油及青葱制成的葱油饼 , 令人食指大动。乳鸽松为正统香辣四川菜 , 常见搭配白饭享用 , 以平衡呛辣口味。而副主厨刘世海的作法 , 是将乳鸽松搭配滑嫩鸡蛋 , 置于如茶碗蒸的炖蛋上 , 客人舀起一口享用时 , 可尝到刺激香辣的乳鸽风味 , 也能享受到鸡蛋的凉爽口感。刘副主厨于多间知名酒店及餐厅烹饪四川菜将近二十年 , 他的料理态度可简单概括为 :「尊重食材 , 同时突出其天然的味道而非将它隐藏。」在「逸蝶轩」, 餐饮团队成功地在传统及创新之间取得微妙平衡 , 以创意演绎多道经典料理 , 不论是神来一笔加入令人意想不到的食材 , 或是充满当代风格的摆盘呈现方式 , 总能不断带给饕客意料之外的愉悦体验。举例而言 , 甜点天使之泪外是巧克力制成的仿椰子外壳 , 里面则是杏仁饼干及椰子慕斯 , 再放上新鲜软嫩的椰肉和椰子干 , 以及一球透心凉的椰子雪芭。这道甜点以流线外形的冰球盛装 , 晶莹剔透的外形更引人好奇想要窥探内里的惊喜。

SAMANTHA SIN

Tofu Chrysanthemum Soup 豆腐菊花汤

Diver Scallop with Spruce Shoots, Finger Lime and Nordic Dashi 手捕带子配云杉芽、指橘及北欧高汤

TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

FEATURE

北欧精髓在地演绎

The Asian-Nordic Alliance

BJÖRN FRANTZÉN, the face behind acclaimed Michelin-two-star Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm, offers a double helping of his revolutionary Nordic-inspired cuisine to Asia with the opening of his new restaurant in Hong Kong’s trending area of Sheung Wan and a two-month pop-up stint at Altira Macau’s Yi Pavilion. “My cooking at Restaurant Frantzén is generally Nordic-Asian,” he says, “which means that dishes are based on local Swedish ingredients, but are given an Asian twist. The pop-up in Macau made it possible for me to reverse the emphasis and create an Asian-Nordic menu instead. Swedish ingredients are exotic here, and I use them as a kind of ‘spice’ to the local seafood and farm produce rather than the other way around.” Every Thursday to Saturday through December 17, twelve guests per night will enjoy Frantzén’s ten-course menu of modern Scandinavian dishes suffused with subtle Japanese influences. “I’ve visited Japan several times,” he says, “and the country fascinates me. I especially love the varied gastronomy and the way chefs take pride in their work on all levels. Japanese cuisine is

WWW.DADOKIT.COM, STEFAN VAN DER KWAST GISSBERG (PORTRAIT )

Sweden’s celebrated chef transports his famously binary approach to Hong Kong and Macau.

Björn Frantzén

follow the fish

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Cauliflower Chawanmushi Hokkaido Uni and Wild Trout Roe 椰菜茶碗蒸配北海道海胆及野生三文鱼子

light and pure, and each dish is created in a very thoughtful way. In many respects, I share that Japanese way of cooking, and so it’s very natural for me to look for inspiration there.” His pop-up menu is comprised of favorites from Restaurant Frantzén in addition to some completely new dishes. “All of them are created or adapted to suit the availability of ingredients here in Macau,” he says, “which makes them all unique. Since we’re serving an Asian-Nordic menu, some ingredients, of course, are flown in from Sweden as well.” The featured dishes include apple macaron with foie gras parfait, dried rye, and lingonberry; cauliflower chawanmushi, Hokkaido uni, and wild trout roe; and diver

TK | follow the fish

scallop with spruce shoots, finger lime, and Nordic dashi, one of the chef ’s specialties. “Regular dashi is made with bonito, shiitake, and kelp,” he explains. “For my Nordic dashi, I use dried and caramelized scallops, Swedish autumn chanterelles, and an Icelandic seaweed known as söl.” Another standout is the chef ’s signature dish, French toast with winter truffles, aged cheese, and 150-year-old balsamic vinegar. Frantzén’s personal pop-up favorite is Hokkaido sea urchin. “This is such an exotic ingredient for Nordic chefs,” he says. “I serve it as an amuse-bouche with truffles.” But perhaps the most provocative selection is named Sweden vs. Japan, a head-to-head comparison between two types of beef with

completely different provenances. “The Swedish variety, from a twelve-year-old milk cow, has been dry-aged for a hundred days,” says Frantzén. “The Japanese contender is a wagyu from Kagoshima with a high level of marbled fat. I want my guests to experience them both for the interesting differences in structure and taste.” Frantzén takes the matter of local produce personally by growing vegetables and herbs himself and even breeding his own lamb. And while the freshness of his ingredients is always paramount, sustainability and environmental impact are also significant concerns. “It’s important to me that ingredients are grown without stress close to where they are consumed,” he says. “Almost

FEATURE

Potato Cake Raraka, Kalix Vendace Roe, Sour Cream and Dill

WWW.DADOKIT.COM (2)

北欧煎薯丝饼配白鲟鱼子，酸忌廉及刁草

大厨 Björn Frantzén 在斯德哥尔摩的米其林二星餐厅 Restaurant Frantzén 享誉国际，其北欧风创意料理不久后也会在亚洲隆重登场，除了将于香港繁荣地区上环开设新餐厅，Björn 也会在澳门新濠锋酒店「逸 (Yi Pavilion)」开设两个月的快闪活动，食客可藉此机会双重体验主厨的革命性创新烹调。「我在 Restaurant Frantzén 提供的主要是北欧混和亚洲风料理，」大厨表示：「意即以瑞典食材为基底，再以亚洲料理手法改良烹调。在澳门的快闪餐厅则可以让我全新尝试，放手创作『亚洲风主导北欧料理』。瑞典食材在当地来说充满异国风味，我不会用作主食材，而是以香料的形式来增添海鲜和农产品的风味。」即日起至 12 月 17 日，逢周四至周六

晚上，「逸」将开放十二个名额，让宾客品味 Björn 大厨十道带有日式风味的现代斯堪地那维亚料理，Björn 形容：「我去过日本好几次，这个国家深深吸引我，我特别喜欢日本多样化的美食，还有日本大厨们以料理为傲的精神。日式料理口味清淡自然，每道菜都是精心烹煮而成。我的烹饪手法在各方面都有类似的特质，所以我常自然地从日本料理中汲取灵感。」快闪餐厅供应的菜单包含 Restaurant Frantzén 最受欢迎的菜式和主厨的新创作。他说：「所有的菜色都是配合澳门当地食材研发和调整，每道菜都独一无二。也因为是北欧式亚洲料理，有些食材会从瑞典空运过来。」特色组合包括「苹果马卡龙配鹅肝冻糕、干黑麦和小红莓」、「椰菜花茶碗蒸配

北海道海胆及野生三文鱼子」，以及大厨的拿手菜之一「手捕带子配云杉芽、指橘及北欧高汤」。他解释：「一般的日式高汤使用鲣鱼、香菇以及昆布，不过我的北欧风日式高汤是由干焦糖扇贝、瑞典秋季鸡油菌与名为 söi 的冰岛海藻烹煮而成。」另一道令人垂涎的料理则是大厨的招牌菜「经典法式多士配松露、陈年芝士及 150 年意大利黑醋」。而快闪菜单当中 Björn 自己最喜欢的则是北海道海胆，他说：「对北欧厨师来说，这完全是带有异国风味的食材，我用它来搭配松露，当作开胃小点。」而最令人兴奋的大概就是「瑞典及日本配焦化牛油及阿尔巴松露」这道菜了，客人可彻底比较两种来自不同地区的牛肉 follow the fish

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FEATURE

Yi Pavilion (Altira Macau) 新濠锋「逸」

all farm produce suffers in transport, so I try to source mine from the vicinity of my restaurants.” That makes operating a pop-up on the other side of the world especially challenging. “Regardless of whether you’re an amateur or a professional,” says Frantzén, “it’s always difficult to cook outside your own kitchen. But the challenges are also rewarding, because they help you develop as a chef. The best part is the sheer excitement of cooking for people far away from my home audience.”

TK | follow the fish

While his tenure at Altira Macau might be ephemeral, local Nordic food fans needn’t despair. The chef ’s latest venture is his first restaurant outside Sweden, Frantzén’s Kitchen, which opens November 24 on Upper Station Street in Sheung Wan. “The menu features ‘mid-course’ dishes inspired by the cuisine at Restaurant Frantzén in Stockholm. The portion sizes have been increased a little, and guests can order a plate at a time until they’re satisfied.” Running the kitchen will be Jim Löfdahl, former head chef at Restaurant Frantzén for seven years.

“Every restaurant in the Frantzén Group has something to do with my past,” says the chef. “I lived in England for five years, and that inspired me to create our Britishstyle gastropub, The Flying Elk. I learned French cuisine as a young chef, and that’s reflected in Bobergs Matsal, which serves a combination of French and luxurious Swedish home-style cooking. What’s the overall philosophy? To serve honest food in an unpretentious atmosphere – a kind of natural elegance – and that’s exactly what we aim to bring to Hong Kong.”

Oskar Johansson

Oskar Johansson, Frantzén Group’s head mixologist, will be creating a variety of Nordic-inspired cocktails designed to complement Chef Björn Frantzén’s dishes. Guests can enjoy them throughout the pop-up event at the bar of Altira Macau’s Aurora. With names like Spruced Up, The Dove, and Faking It, Johansson’s ingenious concoctions mix high-end spirits with exotic flavors from the north: elderflower, pine tree sprout, and that Scandinavian favorite, lingonberry. 为了与主厨 Björn Frantzén 的料理完美搭配，

Frantzén 集团首席调酒师 Oskar Johansson 创作出多样化的北欧风情鸡尾酒。在整个快闪活动期间，顾客可以在澳门新濠锋酒店的奥罗拉 (Aurora) 餐厅品尝到各式调酒 , 例如

Spruced Up、The Dove 和 Faking it，Oscar 巧妙地将烈酒和北国风情 – 如接骨木花、松子和还有北欧人最喜欢的越橘融合在每一杯

COURTESY RESTAURANT FRANTZÉN (3)

精心调制的鸡尾酒中。

的风味：「瑞典这方选用的是历时百日干式熟成牛肉，来自 12 岁的乳牛，而日本方的竞争对手则是拥有上等油花等级的鹿儿岛和牛；我希望让宾客品尝两种牛肉在结构与味道上的有趣差异。」 Björn 坚持选用自家出产食材，自行种植蔬菜和香料入馔，甚至羔羊也是自家饲养。除了重视食材的新鲜度之外，他也十分关心环境影响和永续发展的议题。他说：「我相当重视食材是否在没有压力的环境下生长，以及是否接近消费地点，由于大部分农产品都会在运送过程中有所折损，我通常会尽力就近搜寻食材。」

然而这样的坚持让他远渡重洋经营快闪餐厅变得更具挑战性。Björn 说：「不管是职业或业余厨师，在自家厨房外烹调总是一件难事。但面对这些挑战是值得的，因为它帮助你成长，而最令人欣喜的莫过于能为地球另一面的来宾下厨。」虽然 Björn 大厨在新濠锋酒店的时光短暂，但澳门的北欧料理粉丝不必感到失望。大厨在瑞典之外的第一家餐厅已于 11 月 24 日在香港上环差馆上街隆重开幕。主厨解释：「我们从斯德哥尔摩 Restaurant Frantzén 的美食得到启发，创作出菜单上的 ’mid-course’ 菜式；食物分量更加大了

一些，宾客可以一直加点直至满意。」餐厅厨房将由先前在 Restaurant Frantzén 担任七年主厨的 Jim Löfdahl 负责管理。 Björn 分享：「Frantzén 集团下每一间餐厅皆与我的过去有关，我在英国住了五年，为我们创立的英式小酒馆 The Flying Elk 带来不少灵感。而年少时学习法式料理的那段岁月，则在 Bobergs Matsal 餐厅所提供的法式与高级瑞典家常菜中如实展现。至于我的中心理念呢，就是在朴实无华的环境里，献上自然而雅致的料理。我们期望为香港带来这一种毫不矫饰的优雅。」 follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

星级感官之旅

a sensorial gourmet journey

TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

Macau’s leader in gaming and entertainment assembles an array of Michelin-starred talent for a glittering night of

11 月 11 日的晚上，在官方冠名合作伙伴新濠博亚娱乐的盛情邀请下，六百位尊贵的客人齐集澳门新濠影汇大宴会厅，出席由美食权威米其林及全球最具影响力的葡萄酒评论出版商 Robert Parker Wine Advocate 共同携手主

food, wine, and spectacle.

办的星级盛宴。

澳门新濠影汇的大宴会厅富有好莱坞黄金年代的传奇色

On November 11, Melco Crown Entertainment, as Official Title Partner, welcomed six hundred guests to Studio City’s

彩，为这极致璀璨、豪奢逸乐的感官之旅增添纸醉金迷的华光，更让到场的宾客，无一不尽兴而归。

Grand Ballroom for a star-spangled event, the Michelin and Robert Parker Wine Advocate Gala Dinner.

星级晚宴精锐尽出，令人回味无穷：享负盛名的六位米其林主厨端上六道创新精致美馔，世界知名的糕点大

The ballroom, with its evocation of Hollywood’s legendary golden age, provided an appropriately sumptuous setting for what proved to be a night of unparalleled glamour, epicurean adventure, and sensual immersion.

The evening included six remarkable courses with the

师精心制作美味甜点，更有各地一流酒庄精选顶级佳酿，好莱坞明星设计师 Manuel Albarran 同时带来名为「SENSES」的一系列精彩创作，配合五种感官，营造包罗万象的丰富意象。

Tasting Kitchen 很荣幸得到新濠博亚娱乐委托，访问几位

creative flair of six of the planet’s stellar chefs, an ambrosial

蜚声国际的主厨，更为晚宴印刷华美的小册子，引领宾

dessert from a pastry chef of world renown, exceptional

客进入这趟感官美食之旅，并留为此次难忘体验的珍藏

wines selected by the most highly esteemed of authorities,

纪念。

and a phantasmagoric presentation named SENSES from futuristic fashion designer Manuel Albarran.

Tasting Kitchen magazine was pleased to be commissioned by Melco to interview the famed chefs and to produce the gala brochure that served first as a guide to guests on their sensorial gourmet journey and then as a memento of an unforgettable experience.

follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

SHINJI KANESAKA S U SHI K A NE SA K A

How did you first get interested in sushi? In my school days, when I lodged above a sushi restaurant, I devoted myself to playing baseball. I finally gave up the idea of becoming a professional player and discovered the simplicity of sushi – the way it sets off the tastes of the ingredients to best advantage was what attracted me.

Your approach involves several Japanese cultural traditions. As my guests watch me serving sushi over the counter table, they may see the influence of my study of the traditional performing art of kabuki and of traditional dance, buyō , as well as of the tea ceremony, sadō . I try to make a beautiful performance of creating sushi and to give ingredients the greatest visual appeal.

Originally, edomae meant creating delicious sushi by several culinary methods – raw, roasted, steamed, boiled, and fried – and with only a few kinds of fish. And this hasn’t changed to the present day. Each piece served to a guest consists of steamed rice, a slice of fish, and some other ingredients, along with the energy from my hands as seasoning.

What’s the best meal you ever had? When I was a child, my father sometimes cooked dishes with seasonal ingredients, things he caught himself. I remember that all of them were very tasty, but his duck hot pot was the best.

In the beginning, I suppose I paid too much attention to people around me and my reputation. But now I simply focus on serving each guest in the best way possible every day.

Where do you get new ideas? Feedback from my guests and conversations with them are important. I keep a notebook next to my pillow, because sometimes an idea will flash into my mind while I’m asleep.

TK | follow the fish

传统来说，「江户前」代表的是将少数特定鱼种，以生食、烤、蒸、煮、炸等不同烹饪技巧处理、制作成美味寿司的方式，此一风格至今不变。每贯送到客人眼前的寿司由蒸醋饭、生鱼片及其他食材组成，再

•

加上师傅捏握寿司的双手巧劲及调味，才能散发绝妙滋味。

您为何会对寿司产生兴趣？学生时期我曾借宿寿司店楼上，但当时心

How has your style evolved?

您如何定义自己的「江户前 (edomae)」寿司风格？

谈谈您的料理演化至今有何不同？

思几乎只放在棒球上面。直到我放弃成为

一开始我很在意别人的眼光以及自己的名

职业球员的想法之后，才发现寿司的简单

声，现在我在乎的是把每一天的事情做好，

及纯粹；以发挥各种食材优势为出发点的

给每个上门的客人最好的服务。

技艺，真的让我醉心不已。

能否谈谈创作的灵感？客人的意见，或和他们聊天激发的想法都

您的风格融合了多种日本文化传统元素是吗？

非常重要。我枕边随时放着笔记本，睡觉时突然灵光乍现也能立刻记下来。

在板前看我捏寿司的客人大概可以感受得到传统表演艺术形式「歌舞伎」、传统舞

您吃过最好的料理为何？

蹈「舞踊」以及日本「茶道」对我的影响。

小时候我的父亲有时会用自己抓的当季食

捏寿司对我而言是一场华美的演出，我也

材下厨，印象中每道都很好吃，鸭肉火锅

希望呈现出每种食材最美的一面。

味道尤其棒。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

How do you define your edomae style of sushi?

FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

GUILLAUME GALLIOT TH E TA STING ROOM

What is your vision for the future of The Tasting Room? To continue to work hard. From the sous chef to the commis, we’ve developed a regularity and consistency that we never had before. And the melting pot of different nationalities is also a key factor.

Where do you get new ideas? Sharing with staff, traveling , eating around. When I go back to Europe, I get a lot of inspiration just walking through the markets. Or a dish can be born after a trip, like when I adapt one of my favorite Singaporean dishes with a French cooking technique.

What are some of your favorite ingredients to work with and why? It depends on my mood – it might be truffles during winter. Right now, I like working with different kinds of pepper, such as a Nepalese pepper that tastes like grapefruit. A good quality scallop with this pepper, and it’s done – it’s all about seasoning and balance.

Are there any ingredients that you personally just don’t like, and why? Pine nuts – I don’t like the aftertaste.

When you go out to eat, what are you hoping for? Real food and authentic taste. I want to know what I’m eating just by eating it, not by reading it on the menu.

视我的心情而定，冬天的话应该是松露。现在的话，我则喜欢用各种椒类，如尼泊尔辣椒，它们有著像葡萄柚的味道。以优质的扇贝搭配这种辣椒烹调，便可组成一

•

对于「御膳房」未来的发展，您有何愿景？

道特色菜，当中的调味和平衡就是精髓。

您有不喜欢的食材吗，为什么？

我们会持续努力工作，一众团队包括副厨

松子，后味我不太喜欢。虽然听起来有点

和助理也是，我们培养出前所未有的一致

可笑，但制作青酱时我就不加松子。

性和协调。和来自不同国家成员一起激荡的成果也是关键所在。

Sounds stupid, but I don’t put them in my pesto, for example.

能否分享一些您在烹调时爱使用的食材，为什么？

放假时在家都煮什么菜？通常是我太太下厨，没有的话我们就一起

您在那里寻找新的灵感来源？

外出用餐。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

我会和团队分享体验、到各地旅游和吃遍

What do you cook at home on your day off? My wife cooks for me. And if not, we go to a restaurant.

大江南北的菜肴。我在欧洲时，只是逛逛

您在餐厅用餐时会有什么期望？

市场也有源源不断的灵感涌现。旅程之后

我希望尝到原汁原味的好食材。就算不看

便有新菜诞生，曾经我就试过把最爱的一

菜单，也知道一入口吃的是什么。

道新加坡菜融入法式料理技巧加以改良。 follow the fish

TK |

PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

BJÖRN FRANTZÉN RE STAURA NT FR ANT Z ÉN

What inspires you? I am inspired by Sweden’s four seasons that give us very different produce depending on the time of the year.

为何会对烹饪产生兴趣？十一岁那年，我的最好朋友带我去一所他家经营的餐厅，当时吃到一份牛排配薯条，味道好得惊为天人，简直是一生中吃过最美味的餐点。那一刻我决定要成为厨师，

Can you describe your creative process? It always starts with an idea in my head that becomes a drawing – I need to visualize every single dish in order to compose it. Then the drawing goes to our test kitchen, where we keep cooking, adjusting, and changing until satisfied. Our new dishes are first served to regular customers so our chefs get a feel for the dish during actual service.

What are your favorite and least favorite ingredients?

When I was eleven years old, my best friend took me to his family’s local restaurant. I was served a perfect steak frites that tasted better than anything I’d had before. At that moment, I decided to become a chef just to be able to cook that steak frites.

How has your food evolved? I started out with molecular cooking, but today I focus more on the actual ingredients. I cook with far fewer components nowadays, for example.

谈谈您的料理演化至今有何不同？我一开始是投入在分子料理，但现在更专注在发挥食材的本质，目前我做菜用到的素材就比以前少得多。

您的灵感从何而来？瑞典的四季。一年之中不同时节，出产的当令农产各有特色。

您能否跟我们分享打造新菜的创意步骤？脑中先萌生想法，再画草图，每道菜我都要视觉化想像一遍，才能着手创作。然后我们会把草图带进厨房实验，不断重复烹煮、调整和改变，直到满意为止。新菜推出时通常会先给常客品尝，厨师就能从实际中了解到菜式如何。

最喜欢和最讨厌的食材为何？我做菜时不能缺少两种元素，分别是咸味及酸味。我通常会用酱油构成菜式中的咸味部分，而柠檬汁、醋、醋酸及发酵水果

What are you hoping diners will experience when they eat your food? The highest appraisal I can get is when a guest starts to cry while eating my dishes, which occasionally happens.

则用来增加餐点的酸度、甚至会加在甜点上。我不吃鲑鱼、鲱鱼、牡蛎和鯷鱼，但偶尔会用上牡蛎及鯷鱼来替酱汁提味，但它们原本的味道我真的无法接受。

您希望透过餐点带给客人什么样的体验？ What do you cook at home? It’s the same dish that made me want to become a chef as a child – steak frites, sauce béarnaise, and a tomato salad with red onion and balsamic vinegar.

客人吃了我的菜而感动落泪，真的是最棒的赞美，偶尔真会发生，确实令人心感快乐。

在家时都煮什么菜？就是让我从小立志要当厨师的那道菜：牛排薯条，配上法式伯纳西酱汁，以及伴以红洋葱和用意大利巴萨米醋调味的番茄沙拉。

TK | follow the fish

TOBIAS BJÖRKGREN (PORTRAIT ), WWW.DADOKIT.COM (DISH)

How did you get interested in cooking?

There are two things I can’t live without in my cooking: salt and acid. I often use soy sauce for salt and lemon juice, vinegar, acetum, or fermented fruits to give acidity to my dishes – even to my desserts. I don’t eat salmon, herring, oysters, or anchovies. I can use oysters and anchovies to give taste to sauces, but I really don’t like their natural taste.

亲自做出如此好吃的牛排薯条。

TAM KWOK FUNG JA DE D RAGON

How did you first get interested in cooking? As a little kid, I watched my grandma cooking in the countryside of Guangdong. Then as a teenager, I worked after school and first felt a real desire to learn how to cook well.

Can you describe the steps in your creative process of perfecting a new dish? First, I check out the best seasonal ingredients available. Then there’s a lot of discussion among our chefs and service team. We base every new dish on classic Cantonese cooking methods and devise plating that’s simple and coherent. Finally, after many tastings, we fine-tune the components and technique.

What are some of your favorite ingredients to work with and why? Fish – natural, wild-caught fish – is one of the main elements on any Cantonese menu. It’s healthy and it can be cooked in hundreds of ways or served raw or halfcooked. And there are so many different types of fish throughout the seasons.

What do you cook at home on your day off? Normally I don’t cook on my days off! But sometimes I’ll cook at my mom’s home for my whole family, things like fresh fish, vegetables, free-range chicken cooked by traditional Cantonese methods – steaming, pot-roasting in rice wine, poaching in herb soy sauce.

TK | follow the fish

What’s the best meal you ever had? I can’t remember the name of the restaurant – I was traveling in southern Italy near Sorrento. There were such beautiful views, and it was a comfortable, casual restaurant serving fresh, simple dishes.

何时开始对烹饪产生兴趣？小时候在广东乡间生活的时候，我常看祖母煮菜。而到青少年时期，我放学后便会去工作，从那时候就萌生了要好好做菜的想法。

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

能否跟我们分享打造出完美新菜式的创意步骤？

能否分享一些您在烹调时爱使用的食材，为什么？

放假时在家都煮什么菜？放假通常我都不想进厨房了！但当回母亲

首先，我会寻找当季最棒的食材，接着和

鱼，而且是天然、野外现抓的鱼类。它们

家的时候，我便会下厨煮菜给一大家子吃。

厨师伙伴及服务团队不断开会讨论。我们

也是各大粤菜菜单上的要角之一，不但有

菜式会用上鲜鱼、蔬菜和放养鸡，以清蒸、

设计每道新菜时都以传统广东菜烹饪方法

益于健康，烹调方式更有上百种，不论是

米酒锅烧闷烤或中草药酱油炖煮等传统广

为本，并以简约，风格一致的摆盘呈现。

生食或煮至半熟都别有风味。不同季节出

东菜方式来烹调。

经过多次试吃，再调整从中的选材和技巧，

产的鱼种类繁多，各有特色。

便可成功推出。

您吃过最好的料理为何？记不得了，当时我在南意 Sorrento 附近旅行，那里景色很美，餐厅氛围舒服惬意，餐点简单，新鲜好吃。

follow the fish

TK |

HIDEAKI MATSUO K A SHIWAYA

You’ve said that you were influenced at a young age by the Japanese tea ceremony. I’d been interested in traditional Japanese crafts, art, architecture, and gardening under the influence of my father since my childhood. I also had a big interest in omotenashi from the beautiful dishes of my mother. When I started learning the tea ceremony, it all came together organically and I started to feel strongly I would like express myself as a cook.

Who has had the greatest influence on your style? My tea ceremony teacher, Munehiro Ikeda, taught me how wonderful Japanese traditional cultures were, and my cooking teacher, Hidetaro Nakamura, is just like a god to me.

TK | follow the fish

How would you define the kaiseki cuisine that you create? The spirit of ichi-go ichi-e indwells kaiseki, the spirit of expressing sincerity to a guest with the understanding that this opportunity will never recur. It’s the idea of a deep heartfelt thoughtfulness toward your guest and a treasuring of your time together.

How has your food evolved? My cardinal rule is at least one challenge or new dish to be added to Kashiwaya’s menu every month, and I’ve kept this rule since 1992.

What inspires you to create? I’m not sure. I smell the breeze, for example, or discover the attractiveness of certain ingredients. I put it all together and it comes out as a new dish.

What exciting ideas are you working on right now? I would like to put the aesthetic consciousness of color into my dishes and develop a new style of Japanese cuisine.

What are some of your favorite ingredients to work with and why? Shrimp! I love all kinds, both to cook with and to eat. Shrimp gives me new ideas, and there are so many shrimp dishes among my specialties.

PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

What’s the best food you ever had? My mother’s. Now she’s old and cannot cook, but sometimes I try to copy a dish of hers, and it’s a great compliment to me to hear her say, “You are a great cook.”

谁对您的风格影响最大？

能否谈谈创作的灵感？

分别是带我领略日本传统文化之美的茶道

我也说不上来。举例来说，微风吹来我闻

老师池田宗弘，和我的厨艺师傅中村秀太

到味道，或挖掘到一些食材的诱人之处。

郎，他对我来说是有如神一般的存在。

我会把不同灵感来源融会贯通，新菜也就应运而生。

您如何定义自己创作的怀石料理？ •

您说过小时候曾深受日本茶道文化的影响是吗？自小因为父亲的关系，我对于传统日式工

一期一会正是怀石料理的精神所在：把握

我想把有关颜色的美感意识融入菜色当中，

无比诚意。要体察客人所需，提供无微不

开发全新的日式料理风格。

至的体贴服务，好好珍惜和客人相处的宝贵时光。

COURTESY OF MELCO CROWN (2)

能否分享您一些做菜爱用的食材，为什么？各式各样的虾子！煮的或吃的都好。虾子

艺、艺术、建筑及园艺有浓厚的兴趣，母亲精致的菜式也影响我很多，让我开始钻

近来有什么有趣的想法可以分享吗？

仅有一次的机会，全心投入，让客人感受

谈谈您的料理演化至今有何不同？

研「日式待客之道」。学了茶道之后，一切

每个月我至少定一次挑战性任务和为柏屋

像是很自然，各种元素交融，我开始想以

的菜单增添一道新菜，此一目标我从 1992

厨师作为一生志业，用料理表达自我。

年力行至今，从未中断。

可以给我新的灵感，我也创作了许多以虾子为主的特色菜式。

您吃过最好的料理为何？妈妈的菜。她现在年纪大无法下厨，有时我会试着重现她做过的菜。每每听到她赞赏说：「你做菜真好吃」，总会觉得非常心满意足。 follow the fish

TK |

ALVIN LEUNG B O INNOVATION

When did you first get involved in cooking? I was interested early because my mother was a terrible cook, so we had to fend for ourselves. I would start by mixing curry with Campbell soup and spaghetti, and I haven’t stopped experimenting.

TK | follow the fish

Who has had the greatest influence on your style and in what ways? Alain Ducasse for his brains, Joël Robuchon for his heart, and Ferran Adrià for his courage.

How has your training as an engineer influenced what you do with food? It’s made me more methodical in my approach and it gives me a greater ability to express ideas in a logical and analytical method.

PRESENTED BY MELCO CROWN ENTERTAINMENT

What is your culinary philosophy? ”X-treme Chinese” means to take classic dishes and present them in a contemporary context, use advanced methods and modern techniques, and serve them as a new experience for diners.

How has your food evolved from when you started out? I think it’s a lot more refined now. People often call me a molecular chef, but most of my dishes are not like that. I’m focused on flavors and their combination. You have to present it creatively, but if it doesn’t taste good, nobody cares.

What exciting projects are you working on right now? I just opened a Korean restaurant called Bib n Hops, exploring Korean street food and drinking culture. I have no shortage of things I want to try – I need to clone myself to find the time.

谁对您影响最大？在哪些方面？

您吃过最好的料理为何？

可说是杜卡斯 (Alain Ducasse) 的脑袋、侯

真要说难免不公允，会伤很多人的心，就

布雄 ( Joël Robuchon) 的心及阿德里亚

像要我说哪一位前女友最会接吻一样。

(Ferran Adrià) 的勇气。

过往工程师的专业训练对您的烹饪有什么影响？

您希望客人在「厨魔 (Bo Innovation)」有什么样的用餐体验？新鲜、有趣，同时保有熟悉的味道。客人

我做菜讲求方法，这讓我更能以逻辑及分

可以感受前所未有的创新冲击，然后再带

析的方式呈现脑中想法。

他们稳然回来。

能否谈谈您的烹饪哲学？所谓「极限中菜 (X-treme Chinese)」就是

放假时在家都煮什么菜？给我家吉娃娃的餐点。

改良经典菜式，以现代风格来呈现。以先进的方式和现代技巧来烹调，为客人带来全新的体验。

您现在的菜式和刚进入厨师圈时相比有何不同？我认为现在精致很多。大家常叫我分子料理厨师，但其实我大部分的菜都不是那种风格。我钻研的是味道及组合的可能性。呈现方式要够创意，但不好吃也是枉然。

目前手头上有什么有趣的工作吗？ What are some of your favorite ingredients to work with and why? Brains. Not to cook them, but to have a kitchen with people with brains. With brains, you can use any ingredient.

最近刚开了一家韩国餐厅「Bib n Hops」，进一步探索韩国丰富的街头餐饮文化。我想要尝试的事情太多了，从没缺过，最好能分身，时间才够。

能否分享一些您做菜爱用的食材，为什么？ What’s the best meal you ever had? It wouldn’t be fair for me to say. I would hurt a lot of feelings, like saying which old girlfriend was the best kisser.

脑袋，但不是要用来煮，而是要和一群有思维的人在厨房工作。带着灵活的脑袋工作，任何食材都能运用自如。

What are you hoping diners will experience when they eat at Bo Innovation? Something new and fun but still familiar. To take diners to the edge but bring them back as well.

What do you cook at home on your day off?

COURTESY OF MELCO CROWN (2)

Dog food for my Chihuahuas.

您何时开始对烹饪产生兴趣？我很早已发现自己的兴趣，因为母亲不会煮菜，因此我们要自学烹饪。一开始我把金宝汤和意大利面混着咖喱一起烹调，没有一刻停止各种新的尝试。

follow the fish

TK |

PIERRE HERMÉ WORLD’S MOST PROMINENT PA STRY C HEF

What was your first experience with pâtisserie? My father was a pastry chef, and I remember him making chocolate rabbits at Easter. The image of the excess chocolate dripping down the cooling racks is a very vivid memory because it was my first taste of milk chocolate!

What is your culinary philosophy? When I create, the only thing that matters to me is taste . Never-ending curiosity and a thirst for exploring new taste territories and revisiting my own recipes has determined my style over the years.

What inspires you? Inspiration can come from a book, a conversation, an art exhibition, but a lot of the time it comes from experimentation with ingredients. I sketch my ideas down first in diagram form and write the recipe underneath. I always envisage what I call the “architecture” of taste, the sequence as you bite into the macaron, cake, or chocolate – what happens first, what happens second, what may provide a surprise in the middle.

Are there any ingredients that you just don’t like? I am not a fan of the tonka bean. I think it is overused and doesn’t have a very interesting flavor profile – if I could, I would banish it!

可谈谈你的甜点初体验？

我不是很喜欢香豆。我认为它们有点被过

在复活节制作巧克力兔子的模样。满满巧

度使用了，味道也不是很讨喜。可以的话，

克力溢出冷却架，画面至今仍非常鲜明，

还真想让香豆消失！

那时也是我第一次尝到牛奶巧克力的美妙

COURTESY OF MELCO CROWN, STÉPHANE DE BOURGIES (PORTRAIT )

滋味！

When you go out to eat, what are you hoping to experience? Exactly that – an experience. It’s not just about what’s on the menu, but also the feel and ambiance of the restaurant, the service, the overall concept, and the emotions created. Quite simply, I hope to be surprised.

What’s the best dessert you ever had? There’s a dessert that always remains in my mind because I would like to have created it myself. It’s a dessert with white truffle, devised by Kirk Whittle at the Connaught in London. It has everything – taste, textures, temperatures – brilliant!

您有不喜欢的食材吗？

我父亲是甜点师傅，到现在我都还记得他

您在餐厅用餐时会有什么期望？就是体验二字。不止菜单上的餐点，餐厅

能否分享您的烹饪哲学？

给人的感觉及氛围、服务、整体概念以及

创作甜点时，我只在乎味道。我总保持无

产生的情感连结都缺一不可。简单说，就

穷的好奇心，不断探索全新味道的渴望，

是希望有惊喜。

不时回顾调整自己的食谱，以上造就了这些年来属于自己的独特风格。

您吃过最好的甜点为何？有个甜点让我吃过之后难忘至今，还不时希

您在那里寻找新的灵感？

望自己可以是原始创作人！那就是伦敦肯诺

一本书、一段对话或一场艺术展都可能为

特酒店甜点师傅 Kirk Whittle 创作的白松露甜

我带来灵感，但大多时候都是来自于试验

点，无论是味道、口感及温度，想得到的各

食材的过程。我习惯先把脑中的想法画成

方面全都处理得完美无瑕，太棒了！

图表，然后把作法写在下方。我常想像所谓「构建味道」的过程，当一口咬下马卡龙、蛋糕或巧克力时，首先会发生什么事、接着第二步，以及中间如何制造惊喜效果等等。 follow the fish

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奶油－糕点美味的关键

the criticality of cream With the help of European cream, a well-known pastry chef is able to strike the perfect balance between the flavors of East and West.

CHEF JEFFERY KOO’S extensive experience in pâtisserie includes his training in France, as well as fifteen years at the renowned Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong. And now, as head of Pâtisserie Jeffery Koo, he remains true to his ethos of “creating delicious desserts of the highest quality at a fair price, so everyone can enjoy luxury pastries without breaking the bank.” The versatility of cream in pastry-making is often underrated, he believes, and

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Koo’s creations are case studies in how to use European cream in imaginative ways that span culinary cultures. “I’m primarily inspired by Hong Kong’s distinctive palate,” he says, “but always augmented with a European touch and tastes that are uniquely Asian. One example is my chocolate matcha St. Honoré, made with half-whipped cream in the mousse and premium 72 percent cacao chocolate.” One of the most important factors in

糕点师傅古嘉俊 (Jeffery Koo) 经验丰富，过往曾在法国学艺，其后更在知名的香港文华东方酒店糕点厨房工作长达十五年。如今他创立甜点店「Pâtisserie Jeffery Koo」，贯彻以「供应最高品质的美味甜点，配上合理价格，让每个人无须花大钱也吃得起奢华精致的甜点」的个人理念。在他眼里，奶油用途相当多元，然而重要性却常常在糕点制作过程中被低估。因此他着手研究和分析如何能创新地运用欧式奶油，制作能跨越烹饪文化界限的精致糕点。古嘉俊说：「我的灵感常由香港独特的美味而来，以欧洲风格装点处理，再把独树一帜的亚洲风味增添其中。我的朱古力抹茶圣诺黑甜点就是其中一个例子，以半打发鲜奶油慕斯及 72% 特纯朱古力制作而成。」要制作好吃的圣诺黑甜点，其中

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY

Chef Jeffery Koo 糕点师傅古嘉俊

← Chocolate & Matcha, Saint Honoré 巧克力 & 抹茶, 圣诺黑

Chocolate & Matcha Saint Honoré 巧克力＆抹茶圣诺黑 Serves 8 persons

a great St. Honoré choux puff is achieving the proper viscosity in the mix. “If you don’t get the right consistency,” he explains, “it will affect the whole dessert.” He gives the pastry a personal spin with one of his favorite Asian ingredients: “The bitterness of matcha complements the chocolate really well. The layers of matcha combined with the vanilla give this creamy European dessert an Eastern outlook. It’s the juxtapostions of contrasting flavors and textures that are at the core of my creations. Here, the mousses are smooth and airy, the matcha custard is rich and dense with flavor, and the puff is crispy and light.” Koo points out that the European cream he uses has an ideal fat content of 35.5 percent, whereas Japanese cream, which can go as high 43 percent, can be too heavy. “Cream is a critical issue,” he says, “especially for pastry chefs, since it has the power to make or break a dessert. Other Asian creams can be too light, and you can instantly see it in the texture. I find that European cream is the most flavorful and produces that silky rich texture and beautiful white sheen when whipped. For this recipe, it’s absolutely perfect.”

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Mix the butter and flour. Add cold water and knead into a smooth dough. Let the dough rest for one hour. Knead the butter to soften. Place the Tourage pastry butter in the centre of the dough. Half turn the dough six times or four full turns. Refrigerate the dough after each turn. Bake at 180°C for 20 minutes, and then cut the dough into a 35 cm x 23 cm rectangle. Bake at 170°C for 20 minutes.

千层酥皮 400g 面粉 40g奶油 240g冷水 360g 折叠用奶油

混合奶油和面粉。加入冷水，揉至面团变得光滑。让面团静置1小时。搓揉奶油使其变软。将折叠用奶油置于面皮中央。做六回简单折法或两次对折法。每折一回就冷藏静置。用180°C烤20分钟，接着将面团切成 35*23cm的方长形。用170°C烤20分钟。

DAVID HARTUNG (6)

一个要点在于各种材料混和后的黏度拿捏。他解释：「黏稠度影响整个甜点的成败，要抓得刚刚好，多一分少一分都不行。」同时古嘉俊把他最钟爱的一款亚洲食材加入甜点中，为作品添加一丝个人风格，他说：「抹茶的苦味和朱古力搭配的天衣无缝，抹茶和着香草混制多层的组合，让这欧风糕点携带浓浓东方气息。各种味道及口感的对比与混搭，正是我创作理念的核心所在。以圣诺黑为例，慕斯柔顺轻盈，抹茶卡士达丰盈、味道浓厚，泡芙则酥脆轻盈。」古嘉俊指出选用含脂 35.5％的欧式奶油有其道理，一般的日式奶油脂肪量有时高达 43％，会使味道过重。他强调：「奶油对甜点尤其重要，对于糕点师傅更是如此，糕点好不好吃奶油正是决定性因素。其他种类的亚洲奶油一看质地就知道太轻，我找到的这种欧式奶油味道丰富，打发后的鲜奶油有丝般质感、带着美丽的亮白色泽，用来制作这圣诺黑泡芙再适合不过了。」

PUFF PASTRY 400 g flour 40 g butter 240 g cold water 360 g tourage pastry butter

PRESENTED BY

MATCHA CREAM 90 g milk 250 g cream 70 g egg yolks 30 g cornstarch 8 g matcha powder 50 g sugar 2 sheets of gelatin 20 g cocoa butter 5 g natural vanilla extract 50 g butter

CHOUX PASTRY

泡芙面糊

150 ml water 150 ml milk 135 g butter 170 g flour 6 g sugar 1 g salt 550 g eggs

150ml水 150ml 牛奶 135g 奶油 170g 面粉 6g 糖 1g 盐巴 550g蛋

Bring the water, milk, and butter to a boil. Add the flour, sugar, and salt. Mix well and carefully add the eggs. Using a pastry bag, pipe the dough into regular circles.

将水、牛奶、奶油煮沸。加入面粉、糖、盐巴。充分搅拌。慢慢加入蛋。利用挤花袋挤出规律的圆圈。

CHOCOLATE GLAZE 75 g butter 90 g brown sugar 85 g flour 10 g cocoa powder

In a bowl, mix the butter and sugar. Add the flour and cocoa powder and mix thoroughly. Spread the dough and place in the freezer. Cut discs using a round cutter. Place on the choux pastry. Bake at 190°C for 25 minutes.

巧克力脆皮 75g奶油 90g黄砂糖 85g面粉 10g可可糖

在沙拉盆中混合奶油和糖。加入面粉和可可粉，搅拌至面团变得均匀。开面团并放入冷冻库冷却。用圆形压模裁切出圆片。放在泡芙面糊上。用 190°C 烤25分钟。

Boil the milk, cream, and vanilla. Mix the egg yolks, corn starch, matcha powder, and sugar. Add half the egg mixture to the milk and cream and mix well. Add the other half, mix well, then bring the preparation to a boil. Add the softened gelatin and cocoa butter, then cool to 34°C and add the butter. Blend thoroughly using an immersion blender.

抹茶鲜奶油 90g 牛奶 250g 鲜牛奶 70g 蛋黄 30g 玉米粉 8g 抹茶粉 50g 糖 2片吉利丁 20g 可可脂 5g 天然香草精 50g 奶油

将牛奶、鲜奶油、香草精煮沸。搅拌蛋黄、玉米淀粉、抹茶粉、糖。牛奶和鲜奶油混合物分两次倒入并充分搅伴，煮至沸腾。加入软化的吉利丁跟可可脂，放凉，冷却至 34°C时加入奶油。用电动搅拌棒搅拌均匀。

follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY

香草慕斯英式奶油酱 25g蛋黄 8g糖 3g天然香草精 60ml牛奶 210g鲜奶油 25g奶粉 4片吉利丁打发鲜奶油 250g鲜奶油

Mix the egg yolks, sugar, and vanilla. Dilute the milk powder in the milk and cream, then bring to a boil. Pour the hot liquid over the eggs and stir immediately. Heat to 85°C. Add gelatin, cool rapidly to 35°C, and add the whipped cream.

混合蛋黄、糖、香草。将奶粉放入牛奶和冷鲜奶油中，接着煮沸。将热液体倒在蛋上，立即搅拌。再重新加热到85°C。加入吉利丁。快速冷却，等这个英式奶油酱冷却至35°C时，加入打发鲜奶油。

VANILLA CREAM

香草鲜奶油

600 g cream 4 g vanilla extract 20 g icing sugar

600g鲜奶油 4g香草精 20g糖粉

Mix together all the ingredients and beat until the consistency of whipped cream is reached.

混合所有材料，搅拌直至获得打发鲜奶油的稠度。

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65% CACAO DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE 250 g cream (A) 20 g glucose 2 sheets gelatin 220 g 65% cacao dark chocolate 500 g cream (B)

Bring the cream (A) and the glucose to the boiling point. Add the gelatin, and thoroughly mix in the chocolate. Pour in the cream (B) and cool overnight in the refrigerator. The next day, whisk until the mixture turns into a mousse.

65% 黑巧克力打发甘纳许 250g鲜奶油 (A) 20g 葡萄糖 2片吉利丁 220g 65%黑巧克力 500g鲜奶油 (B)

将鲜奶油(A)与葡萄糖一起煮沸。加入吉利丁，跟巧克力一起乳化。倒入液态鲜奶油 (B)，冷藏一夜。隔天将全部打发，直到变成慕斯。

DAVID HARTUNG (5)

VANILLA MOUSSE Crème anglaise 25 g egg yolks 8 g sugar 3 g natural vanilla extract 60 ml milk 210 g cream 25 g powdered milk 4 sheets of gelatin Whipped cream 250 g cream

ASSEMBLY

组合

Arrange a layer of matcha cream on the puff pastry, then top it with a layer of vanilla mousse. Garnish the choux with chocolate ganache before placing it atop the three layers. Using a pastry bag, pipe the vanilla cream into the center. Decorate with chocolate.

在千层酥上放一层抹茶鲜奶油，接着覆盖上一层香草慕斯。泡芙内馅入巧克力甘纳许，接着放在最上面。用挤花袋在中央挤出香草鲜奶油。最后用巧克力装饰。

follow the fish

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纯粹的美味

straightforwardly delicious The executive chef at Mandarin Oriental, Guangzhou, raises simple flavors to exceptional heights.

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JONATHAN SHEA arrived early this year to helm the hotel’s dining venues, including its elegant grill, Ebony. “Every time there’s a new chef on board,” he says, “the first thing he or she needs to do is to size up what the restaurant’s food is all about and find out what the local population wants.” Originally from New Zealand, Shea comes from a family of accomplished cooks. But, strangely enough, as he recalls, his inspiration to enter the industry came at age fifteen when the seed was planted by a television commercial for a cooking course: “The ad showed a young Maori boy saying, ‘Mum thought I was really good at making baked beans – why not give cooking a try?’” Shea has traveled an extensive culinary journey since then, having worked at top hotels in Canada, Australia, and across China before he was appointed to his current post. As a chef, he is inspired by the elemental concept of “delicious foods,” and he focuses on creating dishes that emphasize simple flavors. “In every dish I make, I always try to highlight the taste and texture of the key ingredient.” Shea is convinced that attention-getting trends like molecular cuisine don’t necessarily produce dishes that satisfy the fundamental needs of everyday dining. “There’s a lot to be said for making something as good as it can be from exactly what it is.” But simple flavors only lay greater stress on the quality of the ingredients used at the hotel’s grill. Ebony sources from all over the world: diners are as likely to find wagyu from Australia, salmon from Norway, and oysters from France or New Zealand as they are Snow Dragon beef from Dalian. Shea envisions Ebony as one of the city’s premium dining destinations. “If you’re in Guangzhou and want to have the best dryaged beef from Australia, if you’re looking for the exceptional in food and top-tier service, you come to Ebony. It’s a really beautiful restaurant with the potential to constantly do more.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GUANGZHOU

Duck Breast with Beetroot and Sweet Potato Purée 甜菜根鸭胸佐甜薯泥

In this out-of-the-ordinary approach, the meat is cured for an hour in jasmine tea, rinsed, and then smoked for fifteen minutes over indirect heat to impart a subtle aroma and prevent an overpowering smoke flavor. Beetroot is presented three ways: as a large disc on the bottom, sliced into ribbons, and as whole poached baby beets on the side. The focus is on ingredients that balance the heavier flavors. The purée, which is a blend of sweet potato and chicken stock, eschews butter or cream yielding a light yet flavorful sauce. Cherries are poached in red wine with star anise; the fruit’s tartness and the wine’s acidity keep flavors on the bright side. Rich and hearty accents come in the form of foie gras mayonnaise and flecks of pickled onion.

Jonathan 以特别的方式烹调这道菜，鸭肉先以茉莉花茶浸泡一小时，冲洗后再以间接加热方式烟熏十五分钟，这样可为食材添加细微香气，避免烟味过重。甜菜根则以三种方式呈现：分别在圆盘的底下、刨成细细缎带状和经水煮的小甜菜，放在盘子一角点缀。重点是让食材平衡浓厚的味道，番薯和鸡汤搅拌捣碎为甜薯泥，主厨刻意不使用奶油和鲜奶油，保留口感清爽之余更具层次。樱桃加入红酒和八角炖煮，水果和酒酸让整体味道更加清新，而鹅肝酱和些许腌洋葱则带出丰富浓郁的美味。 follow the fish

TK |

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, GUANGZHOU

Sous Vide Chicken 慢煮嫩鸡胸

今年初 Jonathan Shea 加入广州文华东方酒店担任行政主厨，掌管酒店的各家餐厅，包括环境优雅的 Ebony 扒房。他说：「每当有新主厨到职，首要任务就是决定餐厅的定位和深入了解当地人的喜好。」来自纽西兰的 Jonathan 出生在家庭成员皆厨艺精湛的烹饪世家。但出乎意料地，记忆中启蒙他加入餐饮业的契机，是在十五岁那年在电视上看到的一支厨艺课程广告：「广告中一名毛利小男孩说：『妈妈常说我很会做焗豆－那我何不尝试去学作料理？』」 Jonathan 充满雄心的厨艺旅程由此展开。加入现任职团队前，他曾在加拿大、澳洲和中国境内不同城市的顶级餐厅工作。身为一位厨师，Jonathan 崇尚呈现「美味」

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The preparation involved in this sous vide half chicken breast is simple: the flesh is seasoned with salt and then gently poached. “The basil sauce is almost a variation of pesto,” says Shea. “We blanch the leaves and then ice them down to hold the green color.” The purée consists of roasted pistachio nuts, jalapeño chili, vegetable stock, and a sprinkle of salt. “You get all the flavors of the basil with a little bit of warmth from the spice and acidity from the chili – it’s not hot, just enough that you can taste it.” The foam adds the unmistakable pungency of parmesan, but in a lightened fluffy form. Of the presentation, he remarks, “Keeping half of the plate clean and the other half drizzled with sauce just adds a bit of drama.”

以真空低温烹调方式料理的这道半鸡胸肉菜式，前置工作相当简易，鸡肉先以盐巴调味轻轻水煮。「罗勒酱汁和青酱很类似。」Jonathan 说，「罗勒叶以热水烫过后浸入冷水，可保持鲜绿的色泽。」烘烤过的开心果、墨西哥辣椒、蔬菜高汤和少许盐制作成嫩绿的蔬菜泥，「独有的味道组合由罗勒的香气、辛香料的火辣，和一点来自辣椒的酸构成，其中的辣味并不是刺激的辛辣，而是能让你很舒服入口的辣度。」泡沫让帕马森乳酪的味道更加出挑，但它是松软绵密不厚重的。摆盘方面，他特别强调：「我特以留白半盘而另一半盘装满酱汁，这让菜式有更强的视觉张力。」

Salmon and Crab Salad

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

三文鱼蟹肉沙拉

的本质，并将焦点放在展现纯粹美味的佳肴中：「我的每一项创作都是为了展现主食材的风味和口感。」他也深信引人注目的美食风潮，如目前最风行的分子料理，并未能满足人们日常饮食的基本需求，「如何让食物完美呈现原汁原味，是一门大学问。」然而，要成功让烹调的菜式展现本有的好滋味，食材的品质是关键。Ebony 挑选的食材遍及全球，来餐厅的客人就像到澳洲吃和牛、挪威尝三文鱼、在法国和纽西兰品生蚝或是去大连大啖雪龙牛肉一样。 Jonathan 展望 Ebony 成为城中拔尖的餐厅，「如果你来到广州想吃最顶级的熟成牛肉和享受到最高档的服务，不妨来 Ebony。这是一家不只装潢漂亮，而且会让你想一再回访的好餐厅。」

Shea credits the inspiration for this dish to the abundance of wild and farmed salmon in his native New Zealand. “Sometimes, you simply sit outdoors on a summer’s day and enjoy a perfect piece of salmon. It made me think how I could make that experience into something fun and interesting to present in a restaurant setting.” The dish begins with salmon cured in lemongrass, salt, and sugar. Fresh crab legs are poached to a firm texture, fennel is simmered in herbs, vegetable stock, and anise-infused liqueur to bring out its natural flavors, and grapefruit and orange are added for freshness. “The components are chosen with the intention of highlighting the salmon,” Shea explains. “Crème fraîche adds body and richness, and a final touch of basil powder is for visual appeal.”

Jonathan 将创作灵感归功于纽西兰产量丰盛的野生和饲养三「炎炎夏日的某刻，我文鱼：们在户外悠闲享受三文鱼的丰美。这让我思考如何能在这个基础上添加趣味，有意思地呈现在餐厅里。」他先将三文鱼以柠檬草、盐和糖熏制；新鲜蟹脚先经水煮，再加入茴香和蔬菜高汤炖煮，配入洋茴香混制的利口酒可带出天然风味，再挤入葡萄柚和柳橙原汁以添清新口感。他说：「所有元素用来突出三文鱼的鲜。法式酸奶油让菜式更丰富厚重，最后再撒上罗勒粉作为点缀。」

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TK |

101

Stir-fried Lobster with Egg White and Truffle in Puff 松露水晶龙虾盏

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TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

玥式新贵

classy and classic

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Studio City’s Pearl Dragon offers a refined taste of China with imaginative Cantonese food that reflects the seasons’ best.

AN INTERIOR DESIGN of warm and muted tones, soft lighting, comfortably high-backed chairs, and generously spaced tables sets an appropriately urbane mood for Pearl Dragon’s sophisticated take on the innermost essence of Cantonese cuisine. Chef de Cuisine Lam Yuk Ming brings more than twenty years of experience and discernment gained in the top tier of Cantonese restaurants to the creation of menus that make traditional dishes novel and give classic stature to innovation. “I get such great support from our team of seasoned chefs,” he says. “They come from regions all over China.” And working alongside Lam as Director of Culinary Operations is Tam Kwok Fung, the renowned chef of two-Michelin-starred Jade Dragon. At the heart of Chef Lam’s culinary approach is seasonality. “We meet weekly with company suppliers and chefs,” he explains, “and we visit the local markets to ensure that everything we’re using in the kitchen is at its peak of freshness and flavor. We source from wherever we have to in order to track down the best—from one of the regions of China or on the other side of the world.” This pursuit of quality is evident in Pearl Dragon’s specialty menu for November, which highlights two ingredients especially fitting for fall: black truffles and lamb. “In traditional Cantonese cooking,” says the chef, “lamb is considered ‘warm,’ so it has always been popular in the colder months. We get our premium lamb from Mongolia, and our black truffles are the finest in France.” Among the selections on the November menu is Braised Lamb Casserole with Water Chestnuts and Bean Curd Sheets, and one of three sumptuous dishes starring the prized black fungus is Stir-Fried Lobster with Egg White and Truffles in Puff. Chef Lam is already adjusting the menu for December with festive specialties like Stir-Fried Turtles, Celery, Carrots, Bean Sprouts, and Mushrooms. At Pearl Dragon, classic Cantonese never stops evolving.

Braised French Duck, Sea Cucumber with Chestnut and Scallion 栗子海参生扣野鸭煲

风格柔和的暖色调装潢、轻柔的光线、宽敞的桌距，加上舒适的高背座椅，「玥龙轩」充满都会优雅的内部设计与餐厅供应的极致粤式美馔相互映衬。餐厅行政主厨林钰明拥有超过二十年的资深历练，过往曾坐镇多家顶级粤式食府，对食材的拿捏及洞察力可谓炉火纯青。经他一手打造的传统菜色皆以全新风貌呈现，新颖同时保留经典大菜的精髓。他谦虚表示：「我的厨师团队来自中国各地大江南北，个个经验丰富，是我的好帮手。」除了一流团队之外，林主厨也和中餐厅厨艺总监、米其林二星餐厅「誉珑轩」知名主厨谭国锋并肩合作，持续创新。林主厨的烹饪核心追求季节性，他说明：「我们固定每周和供应商及厨师开会，并常常到访当地市场，确保我们选用的食材都是当季最新鲜、正值最佳状态的。只要食材品质够好，我们都会想办法进货，

就算在中国的遥远地区、抑或世界的另一角落，都不可放过。」「玥龙轩」十一月的精选菜单以「黑松露」及「羊肉」两种特别适合秋天品尝的食材为要角，菜式的精致完全展露出团队对于品质的一丝不苟。林主厨表示：「以传统粤菜观点来说，羊肉偏温，在天气较冷的月份特别受欢迎。我们用的顶级羊肉来自蒙古，同时进口法国当地品质一等一的黑松露。」十一月菜单精选菜式除「古法双冬羊腩煲」之外，还有各款黑松露豪华料理，「松露水晶龙虾盏」便是推介之一。主厨也早已开始为十二月好好筹备，秋冬交接，餐厅将打造多道节庆料理，像是「栗子海参生扣野鸭煲」，以及「七彩炒水鱼丝」等各款特色珍馐。「玥龙轩」创意精神不断延续，致力把中华美菜再度升华，打造无穷的惊喜体验。 follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

顶级的细腻

all the difference A master in the art of pâtisserie insists on starting with the best ingredients, including Candia Professionnel butter and cream.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

CHEF KEN LEE has been hard at work over the last decade raising the bar in the Hong Kong pastry scene, even as he’s watched the level of products and techniques steadily improve. And he always enjoys doing his part to teach and create opportunities for the younger generation in the industry. As owner and Executive Pastry Chef of Baking Channel, Lee has garnered a cache of experience and accolades. He’s headed pastry at several five-star hotels and has been active as a contestant or judge in numerous global competitions, including IKA Culinary Olympics and International Pâtisserie Grand Prix. “Participating in competitions is a great opportunity to challenge yourself and keep improving. Regardless of the results and medals, it’s about the process, the experiences, the exchange of ideas, the mutual inspiration – those are the things that are most valuable.” Recently, he demonstrated his painstaking methods by crafting a Zen-inspired masterwork named The Zen Garden: Hazelnut Stone. He worked at Gaggenau’s beautiful local showroom, fitted out with Poggenpohl cabinets in serene blue. “It always starts with the ingredients,” says Lee. “They, more than anything, determine how your dessert will turn out. For instance, I can rely on the fact that Candia Professionnel cream and butter products are always made from France’s freshest milk. Right away, you can see the difference – the cream is glistening white and fluffy when whipped, and it takes on volume effortlessly. And of course the flavor is perfectly natural, creamy, and rich.” “At competitions, there are two key things we look for in judging entries, and quality of ingredients is the first. I can never stress enough to students the importance of the right products. And especially with cream and butter, using the top grade makes all the difference.” As he pops one component of his dessert, matcha sponge, into the Gaggenau microwave, Lee talks about the need to balance flavors: “In baking, there are four basic ingredients – eggs, sugar, flour, butter. In this sponge, the citrus acidity accentuates those flavors and offsets the richness, and the mint adds a brisk freshness.”

The Zen Garden: Hazelnut Stone 榛果石庭园

过去十年糕点大师 Ken Lee 一直致力让香港糕点水准更上一层楼，尽管相关产品及技术已持续往上提升，他仍专注全心投入。同时他也乐于传承经验，指导烘焙业后辈和为他们创造机会。身为「烘焙频道 (Baking Channel)」拥有人及行政糕点主厨，Ken 累积丰富经验及各界赞誉。他过往领导过多家五星级酒店糕点厨房，也曾以参赛者和评审身份参加德国烹饪奥林匹克大赛 (IKA Culinary Olympics ) 及国际糕点大奖赛他说： (International Pâtisserie Grand Prix) 等多个全球性比赛，「参加比赛是挑战自我、精益求精的绝佳机会。结果及奖牌不是重点，关键在于过程、获得的经验、意见交流及相互激发的灵感－这些才是参赛的珍贵之处。」他的新作「榛果石庭园 (The Zen Garden: Hazelnut Stone)」以禅为灵感，做工繁复，细致入微。最近他在德国一流厨具品牌「嘉格纳 (Gaggenau)」香港旗舰展示中心示范技艺，现场配备的博德宝系列蓝色厨柜和整体完美融合。「一切都从食材开始， Ken 大方分享制作甜点的秘诀：原材将决定成品的水准。例如 Candia Professionnel 奶油及黄油均以法国最新鲜的牛奶制成，这让我非常放心，品质好的差别显而易见－打发之后的 Candia Professionnel 淡奶油质地松软，透出亮白色泽，轻轻松松就可打出所需的量。味道更是不在话下，天然、绵密，相当浓醇。」「比赛时我们重视看两个地方，首先必然是食材品质。我对学生也是再三强调用对产品的重要性，特别是奶油及黄油，顶级产品做出来的味道完全不同。」接着他动作俐落地把甜点中的抹茶海绵蛋糕部分放进嘉格纳微波炉，同时开始说起如何让味道达到平衡：「烘焙中有四大基本素材，分别是鸡蛋、糖、面粉及奶油。这个海绵蛋糕中柑橘的酸味可以突出基本味道，同时可以营造丰厚口感，而最后薄荷则带来一丝爽口、清新的点缀。」 follow the fish

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PRESENTED BY CANDIA PROFESSIONNEL

The Zen Garden: Hazelnut Stone 榛果石庭园 WHITE CHOCOLATE MILK CRUMBLE

GREEN TEA MICROWAVE SPONGE

320 g apricot purée 180 g blood orange purée 80 g sugar 6 sheets gelatin (2.5g) 1.5 g pectin NH

250 g Candia Professionnel Extra Butter 200 g milk powder 130 g white chocolate 380 g cake flour

10 g green tea powder 25 g icing sugar 20 g white chocolate 160 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 150 g sugar 180 g egg yolk 270 g egg white 200 g cake flour

Boil the sugar and water, add the rest of the ingredients and pour into a flat pan. HAZELNUT SPONGE 275 g egg white 100 g sugar 125 g whole egg 80 g egg yolk 150 g almond powder 150 g hazelnut powder 120 g cake flour 150 g icing sugar

Mix the ingredients together to form a dough. Hand rub on tray and bake the tart shell at 180°C for 8 minutes. HAZELNUT PRALINE MOUSSE 20 g egg yolk 9 g sugar 50 g milk chocolate 50 g hazelnut paste 225 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 8 g gelatin

Beat the egg yolk and sugar until stiff peaks form, add the melted milk chocolate and hazelnut paste, and then the Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream and gelatin one at a time. ASSEMBLING THE “STONE”

1. Fill cavities of a Flexipan stone mold halfway with the “hazelnut praline mousse.” 2. Top each with a round of the “apricot blood orange filling” that has been previously set in a Flexipan with cavities 6 cm diam. x 1 cm thick. 3. Top with rounds cut from the “hazelnut sponge.” 4. Fill with the rest of the “hazelnut praline mousse.” 5. Freeze for at least 2 hours. 6. Unmold and spray with chocolate coating.

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Mix all the ingredients together, pour into a ring, and bake at 180°C for 12 minutes. MERINGUE MUSHROOM 0.3 g pectin NH 60 g egg white 15 g sugar 7 g icing sugar 0.1 g salt

Beat egg white and sugar until stiff peaks form, then mix in the rest of the ingredients. LEMON CREAM 100 g Candia Professionnel Whipping Cream 10 g lemon Juice 5 g sugar

Mix all the ingredients together and heat to 80°C. MINT SPHERE SKIN 20 g sugar 30 g water 85 g mint syrup 7 g vegetable gelatin 0.1 g green coloring powder

Mix the ingredients together, fill an appropriately sized Flexipan with the mixture, and freeze at -18°C. CHAMPAGNE MINT SPHERE 300 g mint wine 40 g Grand Marnier 550 g water 150 g sugar 10 g pectin NH 30 g sugar 20 g Gluconal

Mix all the ingredients together. CHARCOAL PANCAKE 2 g bread flour 3 g cake flour 100 g water 3 g charcoal powder

Mix all the ingredients together, then pan-fry.

In a large bowl, sift together the green tea powder and icing sugar. In another bowl, mix together the rest of the ingredients until smooth. Add the tea powder to the batter and stir. Put all into a cream whipper with two N2O cream chargers and shake well before squeezing out into paper cups. Microwave for two 20-second cycles. ASSEMBLING THE DESSERT

Place the finished “hazelnut stone” on a large flat dessert plate and around it create a “Zen garden” using the lemon cream, white chocolate milk crumble, meringue mushrooms, mint spheres, charcoal pancake, and green tea microwave sponge. Dust over all with matcha powder.

杏桃血橙内馅杏桃果泥 320克血橙果泥 180克砂糖 80克吉利丁片 6片 (2.5克) 天然果胶 1.5克

将糖加入水中煮至沸腾，再加入其他材料混合均匀，最后倒入一平底锅。榛果海绵蛋糕蛋白 275克砂糖 100克全蛋 125克蛋黄 80克杏仁粉 150克榛果粉 150克低筋面粉 120克糖粉 150克

将食材混合揉成面团，将面团放入烤模后送进烤箱，以180度烤八分钟。

榛果牛轧糖慕斯蛋黄 20克砂糖 9克牛奶巧克力 50克榛果酱 50克 Candia Professionnel 淡奶油 225克吉利丁 8克

取蛋黄加入砂糖打发至呈现挺直尖角，加入融化的白巧克力和榛果酱，最后再加入Candia Professionnel 淡奶油和吉利丁搅拌均匀。组合「榛果石」

1. 将榛果牛轧糖慕斯填入榛石矽胶烤模中，装至半满

2. 将直径六公分厚度一公分圆形杏桃血橙内馅放在慕斯上

3. 从榛果海绵蛋糕切出小圆，堆叠在杏糖血橙内馅上

4. 再次以榛果牛轧糖慕斯填满烤模

5. 放入冰箱冷冻至少两小时 6. 脱模后在表面喷上巧克力白巧克力奶酥 Candia Professionnel Extra 牛油 250克奶粉 200克白巧克力 130克低筋面粉 380克

将所有材料混合均匀，倒入环型烤模中，送入烤箱以180度烤 12分钟。蘑菇蛋白霜天然果胶 0.3克蛋白 60克砂糖 15克糖粉 7克盐 0.1克

取蛋白加入砂糖打发至呈现挺直尖角，再依序加入其他食材搅拌均匀。柠檬奶油 Candia Professionnel 淡奶油 100克柠檬汁 10克砂糖 5克

将所有材料混合加热至80度。 DAVID HARTUNG (2)

APRICOT BLOOD ORANGE FILLING

薄荷球形糖衣砂糖 20克水 30克薄荷糖浆 85克菜胶粉 7克绿色色素粉 0.1克

将所有材料混合均匀，将其倒入尺寸适当的矽胶烤模，冷冻于-18度的冰箱内。香槟薄荷球薄荷酒 300克干邑橙酒 40克水 550克砂糖 150克天然果胶 10克砂糖 30克乳酸钙 20克

将所有食材混合并均匀搅拌。黑炭松饼高筋面粉 2克低筋面粉 3克水 100克黑炭粉 3克

将所有材料混合制作成面糊，以平底锅煎熟。绿茶马克杯海绵蛋糕绿茶粉 10克糖粉 25克白巧克力 20克 Candia Professionnel淡奶油 160克砂糖 150克蛋黄 180克蛋白 270克低筋面粉 200克

取一大型搅拌碗，将绿茶粉和糖粉过筛。再取另一搅拌碗，将其余材料混合调匀制成面团，将绿茶粉倒入面团，再次搅拌至颜色均匀分布。将面团放入有两个氮气囊的奶油发泡器，摇匀后挤入纸杯中。纸杯放入微波炉加热两次，每次20秒。组装甜点

将完成的「榛果石」放入平底的点心盘中，四周以柠檬奶油、白巧克力奶酥、蘑菇蛋白霜、薄荷球、黑炭煎饼和绿茶海绵蛋糕布置出「禅园」。最后撒上抹茶粉作为点缀。

PRESENTED BY TARTUFLANGHE

地下珍宝

subterranean treasures Tartuflanghe, the world’s leading brand of the world’s most highly prized delicacies, holds an epicurean festival in their honor.

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“smell, color, compactness, and shape of the fungus.” The festival’s peak on December 16-17 is an exciting dinner at Michelin-starred Tosca at The Ritz-Carlton. Tosca’s star chef, Pino Lavarra, hosts a world-famous guest chef who has created a special menu under the aegis of Tartuflanghe’s Aria di Alba tour (www.ariadialba.it), an international format that brings the most renowned chefs to restaurants across the globe for culinary events dedicated to the white truffle of Alba. In recent years, Tartuflanghe has expanded its product line to offer more than one hundred varieties of Italian specialties made with handcrafted care and technological innovation – and always with a deep respect for the classic traditions of Piedmont.

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Pan Seared Black Cod Potatoes Pure Black Radish and White Truffle Sauce

焦香鳕鱼配土豆，黑萝卜及白松露酱

Chef Agustin Balbi

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Cauliflower Risotto, Veal Sausage, Fennel Pollen and Alba White Truffle 花椰菜烩饭配小牛肉香肠，茴香花粉及阿尔巴白松露

Chef Pino Lavarra

 Hazelnut Soup with Dark Chocolate Bricks, Liqueur Reduction and Tartuflanghe White Truffle

榛子汤配黑巧克力砖，浓缩利口酒及阿尔巴白松露

Chef Luca De Berardinis

COURTESY OF TARTUFLANGHE (4)

WHAT EDIBLE SUBSTANCE resembles a misshapen potato, conceals itself beneath the surface of the earth, fetches fabulous sums of up to USD100,000 a pound, and can be located only through the olfactory powers of trained dogs? It is, of course, tartufo bianco d’Alba, the rare Piedmont white truffle, which commands the glorious heights of haute cuisine. The premier purveyor of these culinary diamonds is the acclaimed Italian firm of Tartuflanghe. Owner Paolo Montanaro remarks of their mystique, “Each truffle is different – you’ll never find two identical, because their aroma depends on what tree they grow near and on the terroir.” In celebration of this noblest of fungi, the Tartuflanghe Truffle Festival takes place November 1 through December 18, organized by the company’s Hong Kong importer, Abrate and Sons. At The Ocean in Repulse Bay, Chef Agustin Balbi has designed a tasting menu that pairs the very best of seafood with Tartuflanghe white truffles. Tartuflanghe collaborates with Green Monday at their vegetarian Green Common shops (greencommon.com) in Sheung Wan, Wanchai, and Central, November 1 to 22, featuring special promotions, dishes, and tasty offers. A Truffle Event at Nicholini’s on November 15 and December 15 highlights Barolo and Barbaresco wines paired with Chef Luca De Berardinis’s unique truffle finger foods. Asked to describe truffles’ essence, the chef remarks, “They have a very light scent of garlic, hazelnuts, and cheese.” In selecting the best quality, he judges by

有什么貌似长歪的马铃薯，平时深藏不露躲在土里，要价不斐，加总身价高达十万美元，令人咋舌，且藏匿地点神秘，只有训练精良的犬类凭借灵敏嗅觉才找得到？没错，正是 tartufo bianco d’Alba ：统御顶级美食界、至高无上、稀有的皮特蒙白松露。此一美食界钻石首屈一指的供应商非意大利品牌芙朗格 (Tartuflanghe) 莫属，品质之高备受外界好评。讲到白松露的神奇之处，品牌所有者 Paolo Montanaro 说道：「每颗松露都不同－香气因依傍生长的树种及所在的风土有所差异，要找到两颗一模一样，绝对不可能。」香港经销商「Abrate and Sons」于 11 月 1 日至 12 月 18 日举办「芙朗格松露节」，让更多人有机会品尝此一最高级菌种无与伦比的顶级滋味。香港浅水湾高级餐厅「The Ocean」主厨 Agustin Balbi 精心打造特别套餐，以品质一等一的海鲜食材搭配芙朗格白松露一飨饕客。另外，芙朗格也与 Green Monday 的素食绿色品牌「Green Common」合作，从 11 月 1 日至 22 日在上环店、中环店和湾仔店举行特别活动，提供餐点及其他美味选择。「意宁谷 (Nicholini’s)」意式餐厅则将于 11 月 15 日及 12 月 15 日带来松露飨宴，以意大利酒王 (Barolo) 及酒后 (Barbaresco) 搭配主厨 Luca De Berardinis 风格独具的松露开胃小点。问到松露美味的奥妙，他说明：「松露带着些许大蒜、榛果及乳酪的味道。」主厨会根据松露的气味，颜色，结实度和形状，来挑选质量最佳的珍品。 12 月 16 日至 17 日在丽思卡尔顿酒店米其林星级意大利餐厅「Tosca」举办的双厨四手之夜，将会是整个松露节的高潮。餐厅知名主厨 Pino Lavarra 届时将与客座主厨联手，在芙朗格「Aria di Alba」之旅（www. ariadialba.it）的赞助下，端上一道道特制松露料理。芙朗格「Aria di Alba」之旅是件国际性的盛事，汇聚知名大厨在世界各地的餐厅参与专为阿尔巴的珍贵白松露而设的美食活动。芙朗格近年来致力于拓展产品线，供应超过上百种意大利道地食材及美食，每一样均为手工悉心制作再加以创新技术－蕴含对于皮特蒙经典及传统的深深敬意。

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FOLLOW THE FISH | TK |

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WINE MASTER

真诚和尊重

integrity and respect Maurizio Zanella, founder of renowned Ca’ del Bosco (“House in the woods”) winery, is an unusual producer, one who prefers never to discuss his wines specifically, saying they speak for themselves. Instead, he talks with TK about winemaking, its continuing evolution, and the arts.

§ 著名的Ca’ del Bosco

(意思”森林里面的屋子”)酒庄庄主Maurizio Zanella 向来不会特意介绍他

家品牌的酒，因为这位独特的酒庄掌门人深信味道就是一切。随之，他和TK谈起酿酒过程，还有其一路以来的创新和箇中艺术。

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Can you tell us about the origins of Ca’ del Bosco? My family was living in Milan, and in 1967 we purchased a two-and-a-half hectare farm in the nearby countryside, in Erbusco, mainly as a place for the weekends. It came with some farm animals and fruit trees. The next year we planted a few vines. The area, as with much of Italian wine at the time, was not known for quality, more for an unstructured industry producing cheap table wine. How did you get interested in making wine? Due to a combination of factors, my parents decided Milan was not the best place for

follow the fish

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COURTESY OF CAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;DEL BOSCO WINERY (6)

me, so I was sent to live full-time at the farm at age sixteen. We did not yet consider ourselves winemakers, with only one acre of vines, but an opportunity came up to join a group of experienced winemakers on a trip to France. I was not really interested in the winery visits, but the trip included two days in Paris and a week off school – that was interesting. By chance, the first winery was – and still is – one of the best in the world, RomanéeConti. I was forced to join the tour. The Italian winemakers criticized everything, even the wine! Every process in Italian winemaking, they said, was better or more modern, but, since I was inexperienced, I didn’t know who was right – but I loved the wine. As a memento I bought three wines. Back on the bus, they were shocked at the cost, telling me I was mad, it was too expensive. One producer said, “I can give you three hundred bottles for that money.” At that moment it was clear to me who was right, and it was that moment that stimulated my interest. Thanks to my father’s behind-the-scenes support and his intuitive understanding that I had a genuine interest in winemaking, I secured a loan at age seventeen to build a cellar. The rest of the initial success story involved a degree of coincidence and luck,

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including hiring renowned cellarmaster Andre Dubois from France and learning from his counterparts who were the best – not just then, but ever. And that provided a unique opportunity to break clean from the industry at the time, to start making wines worthy of global recognition.

need for sulfites. Instead, we use gravity, an old practice that we’ve modernized to greatly reduce sulfite use. Our wines are natural, and next year they will be certified organic. We won’t advertise the fact, because being organic is not about marketing or even better wine, it’s about respect for nature.

What is your winemaking philosophy? Integrity. Creating wines that continue to get better each year, not resting on past successes. Respect. Doing what we can to respect the vines, the wine, and nature. Sometimes these methods are seen by others as crazy, but we go for it. Such as with our Berry Spa, our bespoke system that washes and dries grapes – we know it improves quality. When first introduced, many in the industry thought bringing water anywhere near grapes was blasphemy, but this is part of the Ca’ del Bosco method.

Ca’ del Bosco has a long association with the arts. How did that come about? I’m a fan of photography and large-scale sculpture, and once we had created our refined, natural wines, we needed an audience for them, and my thoughts turned to the arts. The thinking was that if we could attract those with sensibilities toward the arts, they would also have sensibilities toward fine wines. We introduced the first sculpture in 1987, and this October we unveiled the tenth, by Chinese artist Zheng Lu. For me these beautiful works of art, situated in their proper space and place, reflect what the vineyard is all about. We also published a book, 11 Photographers 1 Wine, which took seven years to prepare. It was another way to recognize the wines. These famous photographers could do whatever they wanted but no labels were to be shown, because advertising and marketing are not art, and this was about art.

Besides washing, what else is involved in your method? Our role as winemakers is to use our skills and opportunities to validate the grape, the wine, to realize its potential, and so our methods are interconnected. For example, we don’t pump, it introduces oxygen and the

COURTESY OF CA’DEL BOSCO WINERY (3)

WINE MASTER

ANDY CHENG (PORTRAIT )

可分享 Ca’ del Bosco 酒庄的起源吗？我的故乡在米兰，1967 年父母在附近郊区埃尔布斯科买下两公顷半的农庄，当时主要作为周末放假的去处。农庄内有些动物和果树，隔年我们扦插了一些葡萄藤。那个地区如同大多数意大利酒的产地一般，并非因酒的质量得名，而是以大规模生产便宜的餐酒为主要模式。您是怎么对酿酒产生兴趣的？基于很多原因，我的父母认为米兰不是个适合孩子成长的环境，于是我在十六岁时就被送到农庄去生活。当时整个葡萄园就这么一公顷左右的种植面面积，我们并没有想要发展成酒庄的念头，直到某次因缘际会，我和许多资深酿酒师一起到法国走了一趟。参观酒庄对那时的我而言没有什么吸引力，但那趟旅行包含了两天的巴黎之旅和远离课本一星期的机会，对我来说更为有趣。非常幸运地，我参观的第一家酒庄是不论当时或是现在皆属世界顶级的罗曼尼康帝酒庄，尽管当时的我是被逼着参加的。意大利的酿酒师们毫不留情地对那里的一切指指点点，甚至是他们的酒，他们说意大利酿的酒品质较好，技术也较为先进。但因为我对酿酒一无所知所以无从判断，我只知道我喜欢酒。为了作为纪念我买了三瓶酒，回到巴士上其他的酿酒师对酒的

价格感到非常惊讶，问我是不是疯了，说它们贵得太离谱。其中一个酿酒师还告诉我：「以那个价钱我可以卖你三百瓶酒。」当时的我才了解到什么才是对的，也因此燃点起我对这门事业的兴趣。我很感谢父亲在我背后默默支持并相信我会成为酿酒师的精准直觉。十七岁时我利用贷款建造了第一个酒窖－这是一切的开端，随后还加上许多的巧合和运气，包括聘请到法国知名的香槟酿酒师 Andre Dubois，那个机缘带领着我在业界开创出一条新道路，制作出获得全球认可的酒。

您的酿酒哲学是什么？真诚，不沉溺在过去的荣光里裹足不前，每年都要酿造出更出色的酒；还有尊重，尽我们所能尊重葡萄藤、葡萄酒，这些都是大自然赐予我们的一切。尽管在别人眼中有些方式很疯狂，但我们仍旧坚持。像是我们量身订做的葡萄清洗和干燥「Berry Spa」系统，因为我们知道这会让酒的品质更好。初次采用时，许多业界人士认为用水清洗葡萄是种亵渎，但这就是我们品牌酿制葡萄酒的独到方式。除了清洗系统，还有什么独到的酿酒方式？酿酒师的角色是凭借经验和技巧来挑选出最适合酿制葡萄酒的材料，发掘它的潜质，所以我们的酿酒方式是环环相扣的。

打个比方，我们不打循环，因为这个动作会增加与氧气的接触，导致增加亚硫酸盐的使用，过程中我们巧用传统的自然重力法取而代之，从而大幅减少使用亚硫酸盐。我们的酒都是自然酒，明年便获得有机认证。对于这个事实我们不做宣传，因为有机造酒并不是噱头，而是出于我们一贯对大自然的尊重。

Ca’ del Bosco 酒庄给人的印象总是和艺术密不可分，这是怎么做到的？我个人非常喜欢欣赏摄影作品和大型雕塑，而当我们精心酿造自然酒时，我们不想孤芳自赏，因此我联想到艺术。我思考着若能吸引到对艺术品有鉴赏能力的人来到这里，或许他们也能用其自身的知性和感触来欣赏我们的酒。于是，我们第一个雕塑作品在 1987 年完成，今年十月我们迎来了第十个作品，那是出自中国艺术家郑路之手。对我而言，这些大师杰作正坐落在适合它们的位置和空间里，诉说着葡萄园的故事。我们也花了七年时间准备并发行「11 位摄影师眼中的葡萄酒世界 (11 Photographers 1 Wine)」，这是另一种认识酒的方式。这些知名摄影师可以天马行空挥洒创意，唯独不能秀出酒标，因为行销和广告不是艺术，而我们此刻，只想为艺术而存在。 follow the fish

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TASTING NEWS

天作之「盒」

a match launched in heaven A high-status pair is united at the top of Hong Kong’s legendary landmark hotel.

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Chef Frank Haasnoot

THE VIEW OF VICTORIA HARBOUR from the celestial heights of Felix, the elegant modern-European-cuisine restaurant on the twenty-eighth floor of The Peninsula Hong Kong, makes a suitably auspicious backdrop for the launch of the Johnnie Walker Blue Label whisky and chocolate appreciation gift set. This limited-edition retail package is now on sale and consists of a 75-cl bottle of renowned Johnnie Walker Blue Label perfectly paired with a choice selection of The Peninsula’s award-winning handmade artisanal chocolates. On an afternoon of culinary discovery that amounts to a master class in flavor, Martin Newell, Brand Manager for Diageo Reserve, explains the delectable logic behind the marriage: “The making of fine chocolates is a craft in the same way that the blending of fine whisky is, so this is

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The Peninsula 香港半岛

“This signature chocolate brings out Johnnie Walker Blue Label’s woodiness. From the beginning, aging was a necessity for shipping whiskies abroad, but we don’t want to turn it into an ‘oak fest.’ There’s a peatiness which is a hallmark of the island whiskies, a long lingering finish at the back of the throat. You get that little bit of the tannin, and straight down the middle is a highway of vanilla.” 「此一招牌巧克力带出了 Johnnie Walker 蓝牌威士忌的木香。陈化打从一开始便是威士忌运往国外过程中不可或缺的重要元素，但我们也不想只有『橡木桶味』独领风骚，苏格兰酿威士忌普遍带有泥煤风味，品尝后喉咙后方会有悠长的余韵。先是一点丹宁味，中段开始则是香草味，一路到底。」

Passion

热情

“On the nose of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, there’s a hint of cacao and smokiness. You can discern freshness, apple, even a little bite of rose. The accompanying chocolate enhances each of those flavors. It’s beautifully finished in rouge gloss and filled with passion fruit ganache and jam. It awakens the senses by intensifying the crisp, fruity flavors of Johnnie Walker Blue Label.” 「Johnnie Walker 蓝牌威士忌闻起来带有可可及烟熏味，仔细品评还有苹果香，清新感，甚或一点玫瑰风味，配上精选巧克力享用，让各种风味更上一层楼。有着艳红色泽，内里充满百香果巧克力甘那许及果酱，组合突出了 Johnnie Walker 蓝牌威士忌的清脆和水果风味，唤醒各个感官。」

Fleur de Sel 法国海盐

“This delicate sea salt brings all the chocolate’s spiced notes to the fore – look for cinnamon, nutmeg, and hints of vanilla. As a lingering finish, you’ll notice those warm, Christmas-cake flavors.” 「精致海盐可以带出巧克力的各式香料滋味，肉桂、肉豆蔻和香草风味尽出。后韵带有温暖、如圣诞蛋糕般的味道，深长细致。」

Honey

蜂蜜

“The next sip reveals maltiness, and to complement the sweet nuttiness, we have an almost honey-flavored chocolate. There’s also a rich intensity of honey ganache inside. As the whisky bathes the palate, it spreads the flavor notes, and you lose the heat and alcohol and get an explosion of taste.” 「再来登场的是麦芽味，为了搭配细腻的甜味，我们准备了有着满满蜂蜜甘那许的蜂蜜巧克力。威士忌入口时，各种风味在味蕾四散，这时没有温热和酒精，一瞬间在嘴里交会的是各种溢放的滋味。」

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“The making of fine chocolates is a craft in the same way that the blending of fine whisky is, so this is a very natural collaboration. 制作顶级巧克力和威士忌混酿有异曲同工之妙，两相结合再自然不过。” MARTIN NEWELL, BRAND MANAGER FOR DIAGEO RESERVE

an array of chocolates – citrus, passion fruit, lavender, praline, and many more – that for the pairing, it was a matter of picking and choosing. As you can imagine, it was great fun, and everyone agreed on the direction and final choices.” In the making of fine whisky, the expert craftsmanship of the blend has sometimes been downplayed with the recent focus on single-malt bottlings, but Johnnie Walker takes pride in more than two hundred years’ experience in perfecting the art. Their master blender and his team of eleven have access to the world’s largest library – nine million casks of whisky. This means a

virtually limitless palette of flavors to draw on from twenty-nine distilleries across Scotland. Newell points out that the perfect serve of Johnnie Walker Blue Label arouses six taste sensations: fruity, fresh, malty, spiced, woody, and peaty. And the complex flavor range in The Peninsula’s chocolates complements and supplements each of these distinct tastes. “What you have in Blue Label,” he says, “is the very best of blended Scotch, the pinnacle. Only one in ten thousand casks of Johnnie Walker earns the name Blue Label – it’s as rare as a white tiger.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

a very natural collaboration. There are such infinite possibilities with both, and that makes them wonderful for pairing. Together, they become even greater than the sum of their parts.” Frank Haasnoot, Executive Pastry Chef of The Peninsula Hong Kong, is the master craftsman behind the luxury chocolates. Dutch by birth, he was named the 2011 World Chocolate Master, and, before joining the legendary Tsim Sha Tsui property, he worked around the world for a number of premier hotels and pâtisserie brands. Haasnoot has an appreciation for the hotel’s unrivalled history of chocolate-making: “There’s a great history of Swiss chefs at The Peninsula, and it’s still one of the very few hotels in Hong Kong that makes its own chocolates. For a pastry chef, this is the perfect place to work, because it’s so diverse – we’ve even opened a dedicated chocolate room. “Such a premium brand as Johnnie Walker Blue Label makes the partnership perfect. We chose intense flavors that match well with the fruitiness and caramelization of the sugars in the whisky. We have such

TASTING NEWS

香港半岛酒店 28 楼风格优雅的现代欧式餐厅「Felix」居高临下，维多利亚港美景尽收眼底，此地作为「Johnnie Walker 蓝牌苏格兰威士忌搭配半岛酒店巧克力限量版礼品套装」的发表舞台最为合适。此一限量组现正发售，其中有两大要角，分别是「Johnnie Walker 蓝牌苏格兰威士忌 75 厘升瓶」和获大奖肯定的「半岛酒店精选手工巧克力」。在某个寻访美味的午后，Diageo Reserve 品牌经理 Martin Newell 如同探索了大师级的风味，他畅谈此绝妙组合的特色所在：「制作顶级巧克力和威士忌混酿有异曲同工之妙，两相结合再自然不过。巧克力和威士忌都蕴含无限可能，两者合一的美妙搭配，甚至比起各自独立、分开品尝效果来得更好。」荷兰裔香港半岛酒店行政糕点主厨 Frank Haasnoot 为各式奢华巧克力背后的灵魂人物，他曾于 2011 年摘下「世界朱古力大师」头衔，在加入半岛酒店前，也曾为世界多个顶级酒店和糕点品牌效力。 Frank 十分欣赏酒店制作朱古力的经典传统及历史，他表示：「瑞士甜点师傅在此曾有

一段灿烂时光，至今它也仍是香港少数几间以手工制巧克力的酒店之一。对于糕点师傅而言，半岛酒店可说是完美的工作环境，风格多元丰富，我们甚至有一家专门的巧克力房。」 Frank 说：「巧克力和 Johnnie Walker 蓝牌威士忌这样的顶级品牌来搭配简直是天作之合，我们特别挑选味道浓厚的巧克力，和威士忌中的果香及焦糖味融合得刚刚好。有一系列的巧克力如柑橘、百香果、薰衣草、胡桃糖及其他口味，应有尽有。而从中挑选可以搭配威士忌的组合，过程就像大家想的一样有趣，讨论的方向及最终选择也获得团队一致赞同。」顶级威士忌酿造所需的专家级工艺，近年却因酒业侧重单一麦芽威士忌的走向而时有受到忽略，但两百多年来，Johnnie Walker 从未停止追求完美酿制技术，这也成为品牌的自豪之处。混酿大师及其共十一人的团队可深入全球最大有着 900 万桶威士忌的酒藏中挑选，如同拥有来自全苏格兰 29 处酿酒厂的佳酿可供品尝，取之不竭。 Martin Newell 也指出，Johnnie Walker

蓝牌苏格兰威士忌系列尝得到果香、清新、麦芽、香料、木头及泥煤六种风味，正好搭配半岛酒店种类繁复的巧克力，相得益彰。他强调：「蓝牌是品质最佳的混酿苏格兰威士忌，每瓶都是颠峰之作，十万桶中只有精髓才可成为 Johnnie Walker『蓝牌』，可以说和白老虎一样珍稀。」

The Johnnie Walker Blue Label chocolate discovery gift set is available at SOGO , Rare & Fine Wines, and Wine Etc., priced from from HKD2,180. Johnnie Walker 蓝牌苏格兰威士忌搭配半岛酒店巧克力限量版礼品套装现已于崇光百货、Rare & Fine

Wines, Wine 及指定零售商店有售 , 售价由港币 2,180 起。

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE W O R L D C L A S S TM

别有洞天

hiding from the hustle

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A secluded Hong Kong retreat fashions contemporary cocktails with a history.

Moscow Mule

follow the fish

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Ribston Apple

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

FOR ONE OF THE CITY’S most acclaimed bars, Stockton can be awfully hard to find. Since its inspiration comes in part from Victorian London, it’s appropriate that the only hint to its location is a dark alleyway with a naked hanging lamp. But if you do manage to find it, stepping inside this speakeasy is an altogether unique experience. Even though it’s just steps away from Wyndham Street, Hong Kong’s vibrant and popular nightlife destination, the act of crossing the threshold transports visitors miles and years away. The bar’s mixologist is twenty-nine-yearold Nepal-born Suraj Gurung, who also works at two other well-known spots, Blue Butcher & Meat Specialist and Fish & Meat. Stockton, Gurung explains, stands as a testament to the legendary American author, hell-raiser, and founder of gonzo journalism Hunter S. Thompson, whose middle initial is a good clue to the source of the bar’s name. “When you read Hunter S. Thompson,” says Gurung, “you realize that he became his characters, and that’s exactly what we wanted to do here. When you walk in, time stops. You’re in a different world, in a trance where every little thing has a meaning.” It makes for an extraordinary venue, chock-full of the unexpected, like the psychedelic illustrations by Dan Hillier depicting the Victorian fascination with animals and fantastical hybrid creatures. Stockton seems more like a cozy, dimly lit apartment than a whiskey bar. It’s an overflowing cornucopia of artifacts, antiques, quirky curios, and works of art that often demand a second look, such things as portraits of Bill Murray and David Bowie dressed as Napoleonic soldiers, cabinets crammed with elegant nineteenth-century glassware, a chair from a WW2 submarine, and an ancient French coffee machine, all of them personally chosen by the owners of Maximal Concepts during their travels in Europe and beyond. “We don’t promote ourselves,” says Gurung, “because the idea here is all about hiding from the hustle of Hong Kong. There

Suraj Gurung

are certain places you go to be seen, but here it’s the opposite. You can relax in any one of our many quiet corners, and we even have a set of eleven rules outlining ‘rakish’ behavior to be avoided.” But of course the main reason for visiting is the remarkable menu of carefully crafted drinks. In common with the venue itself, every one of them has a story behind it, and the background of each cocktail is detailed on the menu. “You’re drinking part

作为城中最知名的酒吧之一，Stockton 的位置并不显眼，垂悬在暗黑小巷的灯泡是酒吧位置的唯一提示。尽管和夜生活据点云咸街仅数步之遥，但若花点心思找到它，这家私密酒吧绝对带给你难以忘怀的经验。尼泊尔籍调酒师 Suraj Gurung 今年 29 岁，曾在知名餐厅 Blue Butcher & Meat Specialist 和 Fish & Meat 任职。 Suraj 解释，酒吧 Stockton 就像传承自美国传奇小说家、异议份子、“ 刚左 ” 新闻开创者「亨特 · 斯托克顿 · 汤普森 (Hunter S. Thompson)」， follow the fish

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Finishing touches for a Moscow Mule – with a kick 为Moscow Mule作最后点缀

of history,” he says. “We just brought the classics back with a bit of a twist.” The Ribston Apple celebrates a centuries-old variety of British heirloom apple in a cocktail that melds Ron Zacapa Centenario rum, apple cider, cinnamon, honey, and amaretto. A distinctively festive drink, it’s one of Stockton’s best sellers yearround. Gurung serves it in a rocks glass, dipping the rim first in honey and then in ground cinnamon. It’s poured over block ice, served with dehydrated apple, and sprinkled with cinnamon. “We mix all the ingredients together in batches—the Ron Zacapa has such wonderful caramel, vanilla, and allspice notes, and the longer we leave it, the better the ingredients get to know each other.” The Bitter Bitch is an ode to the Tudor queen, Elizabeth I. “She was an incredibly powerful female in a heavily male-dominated world,” Gurung remarks. “She didn’t marry, she fought a lot of wars, she kept a lot of men in check.” The drink in her

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honor mixes Tanqueray Gin with Aperol, orange juice, Angostura bitters, and limoncello. “Tanqueray is full of Englishness, one of the only gins high in juniper. We add the bitters first, then citrus, and Tanqueray at the end. I shake it for about forty-five seconds if it’s being served neat, because you want the dilution and to make it as cold as possible. It’s served in a coupe glass and finished by floating Angostura on top.” Stockton’s unique take on the Moscow Mule calls for Ketel One Vodka with lime juice, ginger juice, falernum, Angostura bitters, and ginger beer. Falernum, unfamiliar to many, is a sweet syrup used in Caribbean and tropical drinks. “The idea behind it was that every household years ago would have their own falernum recipe using their own lime cordial, lime skin, cloves, and ginger. With the clean, neutral taste of Ketel One, a hint of citrus, and the refreshing light spice of ginger, it delivers a kick that would make any mule proud!”

Stockton 就是取自他的中间名：「读亨特的作品，你会发现他变成了笔下角色，这就是我们想呈现的。这里如同另一个迷幻国度，多细微的事物也富有深意。」这造就了酒吧的非比寻常。比起威士忌酒吧，Stockton 更像是灯光柔弱的舒适小公寓，角落摆着雕塑、古董、珍玩和需细看的精致艺术品，像是比尔 · 默瑞 Bill Murray 和大卫鲍伊 David Bowie 穿着拿破仑时代军服的肖像画、装满十九世纪玻璃器皿的橱柜、二战时潜艇内的座椅和古老的法式咖啡机等，都是 Maximal Concepts 创办人在世界各地旅行时收集而来的。当然让大多数人慕名而来的，是这里精心调制的鸡尾酒。饮料单上详细描述著每种调酒背后的由来，就和酒吧一般引人入胜：「你就像品尝了远古历史的精髓，我们只是把经典重现。」「Ribston Apple」是以 Ron Zacapa Centenario 兰姆酒、苹果酒、肉桂、蜂蜜和杏仁甜酒调制而成，是富有节庆气氛、适合假日的饮品，也是 Stockton 一直最受欢迎的品项。Suraj 拿起威士忌杯，使杯缘蘸上蜂蜜后均匀沾上肉桂粉，将调好的酒倒入放着冰块的杯子里，再放上风乾苹果切片点缀并洒上肉桂：「Ron Zacapa 兰姆酒拥有完美的焦糖、香草和五香粉香气，放得越久，各种香味就混合得越融洽。」「Bitter Bitch」在歌颂都铎皇后伊莉莎白一世：「在男性主导的世界里，她真是强大得令人难以置信。」Suraj 说：「她终身未婚、亲自站上火线参与征战，更对男性发号施令。」这款混合了 Tanqueray 琴酒、橙酒、柳橙汁、安格斯特拉苦酒和柠檬酒的调酒，就是向她致以荣耀：「Tanqueray 是全然的英式风格，也是少数杜松酒味浓厚的琴酒。我们以苦味作基底，加入柑橘和 Tanqueray 琴酒。纯饮摇制 45 秒，可以稀释并让调酒保持冰凉，调酒倒入库博杯中，并在表面倒上一层安格斯特拉苦酒作结。」另一独特的「Moscow Mule」调酒，以 Ketel One 伏特加、莱姆汁、姜汁、法勒南糖浆、安格斯特拉苦酒和姜汁啤酒调制而成。法勒南糖浆在加勒比和调制热带饮品时很常用：「这款调酒来自于过去每个家庭都有的独特法勒南糖浆酒谱，用自家中的莱姆汁、莱姆皮、丁香和生姜混合调制。这调酒可品尝口味澄澈自然的 Ketel One 伏特加、一丝柑橘和清新的生姜，这样的组合论谁享受也能感到骄傲。」

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

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TK | FOLLOW THE FISH

RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Andrea’s 逸蝶轩 Contemporary Regional Chinese North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宮北名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Dinner: Tue to Sun: 18:00-23:00 (Closed every Wednesday) A Refined Gentlemen are required to wear trousers, non-sleeveless shirt and closed shoes. Sport hats are not permitted. Children aged 5 and above are welcome. 5

Baking Channel 烘焙频道 Bakery Room 1504, Block 4, Tai Ping Industrial Centre, 51A, Ting Kok Road, Tai Po, New Territories, Hong Kong 香港新界大埔汀角路51A太平工业中心第四座 1504室 q +852 3152 3987 / +852 5441 6463 Mon to Fri: 09:00-18:00 5

ChocoKoo Cooking Studio Unit A, 5/F, Sze Hing Loong Industrial Building, 44 Lee Chung Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong 香港柴湾利众街44号四兴隆工业大厦5楼A q +852 5220 7064 Mon to Sat: 10:00-18:00

Grill Level 4, Mandarin Oriental, 389 Tianhe Road, Tianhe District, Guangzhou, China 中国广州市天河区天河路 389 号文华東方酒店四楼 q +86 20 3808 8884 Breakfast: 06:30-10:30; Lunch: 12:00-14:30; Dinner: 18:00-22:00 A Smart Casual 5

Felix Modern European 28/F, The Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀梳士巴利道香港半岛酒店28楼 q +852 2696 6778 Dinner: 18:00-22:30 Snacks: 18:00-00:00 Drinks: 17:30-01:30 Supper: 22:30-00:00 A Smart Casual Children under 12 are not permitted 5

Fish School Seafood 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, Western District, Hong Kong 香港西营盘第三街100号 q +852 2361 2966 Daily: 17:00-23:00 5

Room 3105, New Tech. Plaza, 34 Tai Yau Street, San Po Kong, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙新蒲岗大有街 34号新科技广场3105室 q +852 2322 1222

Frantzén’s Kitchen Nordic 11 Upper Station Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环差馆上街11号地铺 q +852 2559 8508 5

Gaggenau Kitchen Appliances Hong Kong 19/F, One Island South, 2 Heung Yip Road, Wong Chuk Hang, Hong Kong 香港仔黄竹坑香叶道2号 One Island South 19楼 q +852 2890 1522

KEE Club Private Members Club 6/F, 32 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环威灵顿街32号6楼 q +852 2810 9000 Mon to Thu: 10:00-00:00 Fri to Sat: 10:00 till late 5

Mizumi 泓 Japanese North Esplanade, G/F, Wynn Palace, Avenida da Nave Desportiva, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹体育馆大马路永利皇宮北名店街地面层 q +853 8889 3663 Dinner: Thu to Tue: 18:00-23:00 (Closed every Wednesday) A Refined Gentlemen are required to wear trousers, non-sleeveless shirt and closed shoes. Sport hats are not permitted. Children aged 5 and above are welcome. 5

Ebony

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Foodgears Industrial International Ltd. 福基国际工业股份有限公司

TK | follow the fish

Pearl Dragon 玥龙轩 Cantonese Shop2111, Level 2, Star Tower at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠影汇酒店巨星汇二楼 2111店 q +853 8865 6560 Lunch: Mon, Thu & Fri: 12:00-15:00; Sat, Sun & Public Holidays: 11:00-15:00 Dinner: Mon, Thu to Sun & Public Holidays: 18:00-23:00 (Closed every Tuesday and Wednesday) A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children under six are welcome to dine at the private dining room. 5

Shinji by Kanesaka 金坂极上寿司 Japanese Level 1, Crown Towers at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地皇冠度假酒店一楼 q +853 8868 7300 Lunch: Wed to Sun: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: Tue to Sun: 18:00-23:00 (Closed every Monday and Tuesday Lunch) A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers with closed footwear. Children aged twelve years and above are welcome. Children under twelve are welcome to dine at the private dining room. 5

Simpson Marine Limited 辛普森游艇有限公司 Unit 6, G/F, Aberdeen Marina Tower, 8 Shum Wan Road Aberdeen, Hong Kong 香港仔深湾道8号游艇会大厦地下6铺 q +852 2873 4014

Stockton Whisky Bar 32 Wyndham St, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街32号地下 q +852 2565 5268 Mon to Sat: 18:00-04:00 5

Table – Ingredient Based Cuisine 净化海鲜 Seafood 8/F, The Pembertons, 22-26 Bonham Strand, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环文咸東街 22-26 号柏廷坊八楼 q +852 2815 2367 Mon to Sat: 12:00-23:00 5

The Pig & Palm Spanish G/F, MSY Tower, Pescadores Road, Cebu Business Park, Cebu City, Philippines q +63 (0)32 255 8249 Restaurant: Tue to Fri: 07:30-12:00; Sat to Sun: 08:00-12:00; Bar: Tue to Thu: 12:00-00:00 Fri to Sat: 12:00-02:00 5

Yi Pavilion 逸 Chinese and Southeast Asian Level 10, Altira, Macau Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa, Macau 澳门氹仔广东大马路新濠锋10楼 q +853 2886 8868 Breakfast: 07:00-10:00; Lunch: 12:00-14:00; Dinner: 18:30-22:30; Sunday Brunch: 11:30-15:30 (Closed on Sunday nights; closed on Mondays except breakfast) 5

DESSERT

Louis Heng, Pastry Chef de Cuisine at City of Dreams, creates Chocolate Earl Grey Almond Mousse. Made with Madagascar dark chocolate, the silky mousse is cold-infused for twenty-four hours with French Earl Grey tea to impart its fruity notes. A contrast in texture comes from crunchy almond nougatine.

DAVID HARTUNG

新濠天地糕点主厨Louis Heng所创的巧克力伯爵慕斯蛋糕，由马达加斯加黑巧克力制成，注入冷泡24小时的法式伯爵茶，带出浓香茶味，丝滑口感与搭配的脆皮杏仁牛轧糖产生微妙的对比。

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