TK24 Summer Nights

Page 1

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

T A S T I N G 24

K I T C H E N

S U M M E R

N I G H T S

WAN CHAI

Peacocks and Performance Art 雀艳

HONG KONG

Toasting the Egg

探索「鸡蛋」的无限可能

HONG KONG AND MACAU

Spirited Competition 创意调酒大对决




STARTER

Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon at City of Dreams Macau presents his tempting starter, a dim sum trio. At top, the signature Jade Dragon Dumpling holds a succulent filling of tiger prawn, blue lobster, and bamboo shoots wrapped in an emerald skin laced with baby spinach and garlic chives. The delicate interior of the Steamed Fish Maw Dumpling is encased in a double wrapper, one white, one tinged red with beetroot. The Australian M8 Wagyu Beef Puff encloses a filling of seared beef cubes with Korean barbecue sauce in tender dough that is deep-fried to golden crispiness.

DAVID HARTUNG

澳门新濠天地执掌誉珑轩的厨艺总监谭国锋,向我们呈现一道令人垂涎的点心三重奏。在上方的是招牌翡翠玉龙饺,多汁的内 馅由虎虾、蓝龙虾和鲜笋制成,翠绿的外皮上系着嫩菠菜和细香葱。花胶海鲜菜苗饺滑嫩的内馅,由红白双色饺皮双层包裹 着,注目的鲜红色泽来自甜菜根。黑椒烧汁一口和牛酥则是把炙烧得恰到好处的牛肉块放进柔软的面皮,再酥炸到金黄而成。

2

|

TK | summer nights



T A S T I N G 24

K I T C H E N

S U M M E R

N I G H T S

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Andrea Lo

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Catherine Shaw

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Inara Sim

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Juliana Loh

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

Icy Ip

Jane Wong

Vicki Williams

Babel Communications

CHINESE EDITOR

ACCOUNTANT

Victoria Lei

Terrie Lam

PRINTING

ADMINISTRATION MANAGER

Asia One Printing

ASSISTANT EDITOR

Pek Wong Ella Sio

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Crystal Chan ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT

EDITORIAL ASSISTANTS

GROUP ADVERTISING sales@tasting-kitchen.com

SUBSCRIPTIONS subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

jonna@babel.com.tw

13/F, Asia One Tower, 8 Fung Yip Street Chai Wan, Hong Kong

DISTRIBUTION One Logistics +852 5110 3084

Three seductive muses strike a sultry pose in the entrance to Ophelia, ​ a new Wanchai cocktail lounge, where exceptional performance art and music combine with noteworthy food and drink to create a one-of-a-kind Hong Kong experience. Learn more about Ophelia starting on page 34. 在香港湾仔新开幕的Ophelia酒吧门口,三位性感缪思摆出撩人姿势,​ 喜迎顾客到来。在这里,精采的艺术及音乐表演与美馔甘醴合而为一,​ 创造出香港绝无仅有的体验。想了解更多Ophelia酒吧请翻阅第34页。

Photography by David Hartung ©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2016 All rights reserved

4

|

TK | summer nights



PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Summer Nights, we celebrate the spirits that make starry evenings scintillate. Beginning in Repulse Bay, we take in seaside views while sipping exclusive Cognacs served from a handmade display trunk that took its Parisian makers more than a thousand hours to construct. Wending our way back to Central, we enjoy another inspired collaboration, this time between one of the world’s premier Scottish single malts and a historic French glassworks renowned for artisanship and innovation. Then we talk with six talented bartenders who made it to the Hong Kong finals of the Diageo Reserve World Class competition. In a two-day contest, they were called on to display their knowledge of distillation and whiskies, demonstrate their ability to mix drinks consistently under time pressure, and develop original cocktails for pairing with street-food-style dishes. In Wan Chai, we immerse ourselves in one of the most visually striking bars ever to dazzle Hong Kong, whose design manifesto encompasses both cocktail lounge and performance art. And finally, we witness the happy marriage of an illustrious Champagne with one of the simplest of ingredients, discovering how sixteen local chefs have elevated the egg to new heights. Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

6

|

TK | summer nights



CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Treasure Chest  • 12 Capturing the Spirit  • 14 Tinspiration • 16 Classic Clarity 18 Indonesian Cool  •  22 Dining by Design  • 24 Spirited Competition

10

12

14

16

22

24

8

|

TK | summer nights

18


CONTENTS

34 Peacocks and Performance Art  • 44 Toasting the Egg 60 Inspired by Simplicity  • 62 Lusciously Lobster  • 64 Summer Stars 66 Italian Summer  • 68 Spicing It Up  • 72 All in the Family 78  R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S •  80  D E S S E R T

34

60

62

64

68

44

72 summer nights

|

TK |

9


INSPIRED LIVING

藏宝箱

treasure chest A great name in Cognac, a luxury malletier, and a renowned restaurant join forces to bring an exceptional showpiece to Hong Kong.

10

|

TK | summer nights

几百年来,皮箱可说是旅人飘洋过海的必 需品。全靠这些坚固耐用、制作精细的收 纳箱来护送华美布料、举世少有的艺术品 和金币银币等贵重物品,才能确保财物在 狂风大浪肆虐及手脚不干净的偷渡客威胁 之下仍能安然无恙。 最 近, 有 一 个 珍 贵 大 皮 箱 也 被 运 送 到 香 港, 这 宝 箱 名 为「Secrets of

a Trunk」, 为 最 悠 久 的 干 邑 酒 庄 之 一 「Martell」及「Le Comptoir」集团位于浅 水湾的海洋主题餐厅「The Ocean」联手 呈献, 向过往大航海世代的浪漫豪情致敬。

Martell 的「Secrets of a Trunk」 酒 柜 由 巴黎高级酒柜品牌「Pinel & Pinel」设计, 由十位工匠、花费数千小时的手工精心打 造。 酒柜的表面裹以蓝色粒面皮革,加 以铜饰及银牌、橡木、水晶及棉麻等细 节点缀,可说无处不见工匠细腻的手上 功夫。不过真正的秘密还要待酒柜打开 之后才能得见 :Martell 28 支佳酿一字排 开,当中包含 4 瓶品牌珍藏版干邑「Les Assemblages Exclusif」。柜内还有一系列 豪华用品,包括高级玻璃酒杯、镀银冰桶 及顶级雪茄用具, 但其中最特别的非「The

Cellar Master’s Notebook ( 酿 酒 大 师 笔 记 )」莫属,上记有「Martell」品牌酿酒 师 Benoît Fil 一字一句亲手写下的品酩心 得。 这件特级艺术品和从「The Ocean」 偌大落地窗眺望出去的全景式海景互相 辉 映, 为 了 迎 合 这 件 工 艺, 行 政 总 厨

Agustin Balbi 也 精 心 打 造 了 为 期 一 个 月 的限时菜单,以多道料理诠释「Martell」 繁复的细节。菜色相当丰富 :包括前菜烟 熏带子、烧白芦笋,首道菜为龙虾料理、 羊肚菇及盐角草,北极红点鲑为主菜,最 后则以榛果、山莓雪芭及意大利香醋制 成的甜点「巧克力森林蛋糕」划下句点。 「The Ocean」独到的海鲜料理与「Secrets

of a Trunk」的顶级 Martell 干邑尊尚结合, 成就全港最极致诱人的用餐体验。

THOMAS DUVAL

FOR CENTURIES, leather-covered wooden trunks were essential in traversing the high seas. Voyagers relied on these rugged, finely crafted repositories to protect their precious possessions – everything from sumptuous textiles and rare works of art to gold and silver coins – and to keep valuables safe from howling gales, briny swells, and sticky-fingered stowaways. Now an extraordinary chest that harks back to the romance of those seafaring centuries has landed in Hong Kong, born of a unique collaboration between Martell, among the oldest of the great Cognac houses, and The Ocean, Le Comptoir Group’s spectacular seainspired restaurant in Repulse Bay. Martell’s “Secrets of a Trunk” is the product of more than a thousand hours of handiwork by ten artisans at Pinel & Pinel, the Parisian maker of luxury luggage. The meticulous workmanship of these craftsmen is apparent in every detail of the full-grain blue leather exterior, accented with copper and silver plate, oak, crystal, and linen. When opened out, the trunk reveals its precious secret: Martell’s range of twenty-eight montres, including four exclusive Cognac blends known as Les Assemblages Exclusifs. Among other valuables inside are fine glassware, a silver ice bucket, and premium cigar accessories. The most unusual treasure of all, however, is The Cellar Master’s Notebook, an extensive collection of tasting notes handwritten by Martell’s resident expert, Benoît Fil. To celebrate the arrival of this remarkable object of art, which fits perfectly against the panoramic seaside views from The Ocean’s enormous windows, Executive Chef Agustin Balbi has created a special month-long menu with dishes to complement the complex nuances of Martell. They include a starter of smoked scallops; a white asparagus brûlée; a first course of lobster, morel mushrooms, and salicornia; a main course of Arctic char; and a “chocolate forest” finale with hazelnuts, raspberry sorbet, and balsamic vinegar. The Ocean’s sophisticated approach to seafood and the fine Cognacs revealed in Martell’s “Secrets of a Trunk” combine to create one of Hong Kong’s most glamorous dining experiences.


SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

11


INSPIRED LIVING

稀世臻品

capturing the spirit Two legendary companies partner to produce a unique work that unites a distiller’s craftsmanship and a glassmaker’s art.

12

|

TK | summer nights

苏格兰东北的斯佩河上方高地 , 酿制着最为人称道 的单一纯麦威士忌麦卡伦 ; 而沿着法国东北莫德尔 河的阿尔萨斯山谷 , 则烧制出最享誉盛名的水晶品 牌 – Lalique。 如 今 两 大 知 名 品 牌 再 度 联 手 , 为「The Macallan in Lalique Six Pillars 」系列打造绝美臻 品 , 珍稀威士忌以匠心独具的水晶酒瓶盛装 , 同时 代表品牌「六大支柱」的特色 :The Macallan 精 神家园 (The Spiritual Home)、最小巧铜管蒸 馏仪 (The Curiously Small Stills)、最少切割 部份 (The Finest Cut)、优质橡木酒桶 (The Exceptional Oak Casks)、天然色泽 (The Natural Color)、无与伦比的美酒 (The Peerless Spirit)。 最新推出的系列最终回 The Macallan in Lalique「Peerless Spirit」盛装著层次平衡的 65 年单一纯麦威士忌,有着深邃 的胡桃木色泽,飘散出柔和的 马达加斯加香草条、肉桂、摩 洛哥海枣香气,中度的酒体带 有一丝黑胡椒、丁香、经烘烤的 可可豆味道,余韵圆润悠长,蜂蜜 与黑巧克力气味浓郁饱满。 此款水晶瓶全球限量发行

450 瓶。Lalique 创 意 总 监 Marc Larminaux 的设计灵感,象徵麦卡伦威 士忌从具标志性的倒三角图案滴下,这个现今能在 每个瓶上见到的三角图案可追溯至 19 世纪。 1921 年 René Lalique 凭 借 破 格 设 计 工 艺 创 办 了 品 牌

Lalique,如今他鬼斧神工的技术显见于每个工艺品 上。René Lalique 使用吹制玻璃与中间饰有水晶而 四周注入液体的工艺技术,在他许多著名的新艺术 到装饰艺术香水瓶均清晰可见,且此种技艺一路流 传至今,影响深远。 系列中各款水晶瓶便承袭了

Lalique 渊远流长的极致技艺,广受爱好者青睐。 「Peerless Spirit」 水 晶 瓶 全 球 定 价 为 35,000 美元,收藏家可在香港特定高档葡萄酒与烈酒零售 店购得。

COURTESY OF MACALLAN (5)

FROM A HIGHLANDS PLATEAU above the River Spey in northeastern Scotland comes that most celebrated of single malt whiskies, The Macallan. And from an Alsatian valley along the Moder River in northeastern France comes that most celebrated of fine glassware, Lalique. Now, two masters in their fields have once again joined forces to create the crowning piece in the renowned The Macallan in Lalique Six Pillars Collection, a series of exceptional whiskies enclosed in exceptional decanters. Together, they represent the distillery’s defining elements, its Six Pillars: The Spiritual Home, The Curiously Small Stills, The Finest Cut, The Exceptional Oak Casks, The Natural Color, and The Peerless Spirit. It is the final Pillar that is acclaimed in the latest addition to the collection, The Macallan in Lalique “Peerless Spirit,” which contains a supremely balanced sixty-five-year-old whisky. Dark walnut in color, the single malt has mellow notes of Madagascan vanilla pods, cinnamon, and Moroccan dates and a medium body with hints of black pepper, cloves, and toasted cocoa beans. The finish is long and smooth, rich with nuances of honey and dark chocolate. The decanter has been produced in a limited, numbered edition of 450. Marc Larminaux, Creative Director of Lalique, based the design on the concept of a single drop of The Macallan falling from the label’s signature inverted-triangle symbol that traces back to the nineteenth century and that is now featured on every bottle. The hand of René Lalique, who founded the historic glassworks in 1921, can be seen in each flask. The production method was influenced by the blown and pinched technique Lalique employed in many of his famous Art Nouveau and Art Deco perfume bottles. Each of the six decanters in the series, which has proven immensely popular with collectors, was inspired by a design or technique from the storied heritage of Lalique. The Macallan in Lalique “Peerless Spirit” is globally valued at USD35,000 and is now available to Hong Kong collectors at the city’s leading wine and spirit retail stores.



INSPIRED LIVING

14

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS


「醇」金属

tinspiration

COURTESY OF WOO COLLECTIVE (2)

A nearly forgotten metal craft is brought into the modern world by a team of innovative Taiwanese designers.

THE ANCIENT ART OF TINSMITHING is one that has all but died out in most cultures around the world. But in recent years, a young Taiwanese brand named Woo Collective has been instrumental in reviving the everyday use of a non-toxic metal said to possess the power to purify anything it comes in contact with. A few years ago, Woo Collective’s founders rediscovered the history and techniques of nineteenth-century tin craft in Taiwan. Developing a sophisticated and organic design aesthetic, the team has steadily turned out a series of contemporary tableware and homeware collections, several of which have garnered leading awards, among them a coveted Design Mark in 2015 from the highly regarded Golden Pin Design Award. Inspired by what they believe to be the metal’s ability to mellow the taste of beverages, the brand recently announced its 2016 Liquor Perfection Collection of decanting utensils. Made of pewter containing 98 percent pure tin, the spiral-shaped tools come in two forms for use in both glasses and decanters. Recommended for wine, beer, whisky, brandy, and vodka, they are also perfect for water and tea, smoothing any harsh or bitter tones and bringing out the subtle natural flavors. The collection exemplifies the exhaustive research and experimentation carried out by the Woo Collective designers. In this case, from an original 6 designs with 85 functions and 634 variations, the team selected 18 models for consideration and fabricated prototypes of each. Practical testing narrowed the number to the two perfected models currently available. The Liquor Perfection Collection, epitomizing the purity of Woo Collective’s Zen-influenced ethos, was launched at the Creative Expo Taiwan 2016 in March under the banner of this year’s World Design Capital Taipei.

古老锡工艺在全世界多数文化里已几近 失 传, 但 近 年 一 个 年 轻 台 湾 品 牌「Woo

Collective 物」却以鬼斧神工、别具一格的 工艺,把锡文化复兴在日常应用中。据说锡 不仅无毒,还可洁净任何与之接触的物质。 数年前「Woo Collective 物」的创办团队 因契机重新认识了十九世纪台湾的锡工艺历 史与技艺,受其启发创作出一系列当代锡制 餐具与家居作品,产品融和团队一套纯熟的 有机设计美学,不少已荣获大奖,其中一件 更是备受赞誉的金点设计奖 2015 年标章得 主。 团队深信锡能够醇化饮品风味,基于此 信念,该品牌最近推出 2016 年浪云醇酒器。 此螺旋状醒酒工具以 98% 纯锡的白镴制作, 有两种款式,酒杯和醒酒瓶皆适用。产品可 用于葡萄酒、啤酒、威士忌、白兰地、伏特加, 亦适用于水和茶,能平抚各种苦涩味,也可 带出幽微的天然风味。 此系列作品展示了「Woo Collective 物」 的设计师们详尽透彻的研究与实验精神,设 计阶段团体草拟了六种原型,85 款功能和

634 种造型,再从中精选出 18 种款式深化 钻研打造原型作品,经过不断实际调整测试, 最终选出目前两种最完美的模型。 浪云醇酒器体现了品牌的东方简约美学 风格,并在三月於台北世界设计之都盛会活 动- 2016 台湾文博会展出。 summer nights

|

TK |

15


INSPIRED LIVING

澄澈经典

classic clarity A leading designer and a master glassmaker work together to make a complex concept perfectly clear.

16

|

TK | summer nights

何 谓 现 代 经 典? 如 果 标 准 是 创 新、 品 质 和 美学完整性,那么出自英国设计师 Michael Young 之 手、 价 值 21,950 美 元 的 特 制 Homune Table 绝对当之无愧。 圆形水晶桌面透明无暇,底下坚固的基 座是个单一复杂而精细的雕塑品,由 36 个 手工吹制的几何形体组成。设计师 Michael 找上开发出特殊技术的捷克玻璃工艺品牌

Lasvit 合作,将此复杂构想化为现实,制作 出六种不同形体如水晶般澄澈的玻璃,每个 形体重复六次,创造出碎形般的架构。

Michael 亲自走访了 Lasvit 位于捷克新 博尔的工作间后说 : 「这是我 25 年来收获最 多的一趟旅行。天气热得不得了,我得从早 上九点就开始喝啤酒帮自己降温,但大家一 起学习应用数学概念,用玻璃创造出无穷无 尽的结构意象。 」

Michael 于 2006 年 在 香 港 成 立 自 己 的 同 名 工 作 室, 自 此 便 着 手 进 行 各 式 各 样 的 品 牌 设 计 专 案, 包 括 为 意 大 利 经 典 音 响 品 牌 Brionvega 设计的可携式蓝芽扬声器、为 Christopher Farr 设计的手织土库曼部落风格 地毯、为现代北欧品牌 Iittala 于台北开设的 某家店面设计内装。 「Homune Table 与我先前的作品截然不 同。 」他说道 :「但我的设计向来遵循这项原 则。要说服公司投资前卫的构想并不容易, 幸好 Lasvit 有远见,也具备工匠与技艺让这 种技术成真。而且产品也很热销,显然我们 辛勤工作有了回报!」

PHOTO COURTESY OF MICHAEL YOUNG (2)

WHAT MAKES A MODERN CLASSIC? If the criteria are innovation, quality, and aesthetic integrity, then the special-edition Homune Table (USD21,950) by British designer Michael Young undoubtedly fits the bill. Beneath a round crystal top, the substantial base is a single intricate sculptural form comprised of thirty-six hand-blown geometric figures. To transform this complex design into reality, Young turned to Czech master glassblowers Lasvit, who developed a special technology for fabricating the crystal-clear glass in six different forms, each repeated six times to produce a fractal-like structure. Young, who made a trip to Lasvit’s workshop in the town of Nový Bor, remarks, “It was the most inspirational visit I’ve had in twenty-five years. It’s so hot that you have to drink beer from 9:00 a.m. to keep cool, but together we learned how to adapt the mathematical idea to create the illusion of endless constructions in glass.” Since setting up his eponymous studio in Hong Kong in 2006, Young has produced a wide range of designs, from a portable Bluetooth speaker for Brionvega to a hand-knotted Tekke rug for Christopher Farr to interiors for an Iittala store in Taipei. “The Homune Table is a departure from my previous work,” he says, “but then again, the ethic of my studio has always been based on this principle. It’s not easy to convince companies to invest in progressive ideas, but, luckily, Lasvit has the vision and the artisans and craftsmen to help make the technology real. And we’ve sold a lot, so hard work obviously pays off!”




DESIGN

东南亚风情

indonesian cool

COURTESY OF PHHK (2)

What began in Bali and became a sensation in Singapore has arrived in Hong Kong at last.

POTATO HEAD , the entertainment destination of both Bali and Singapore, has become a byword for well-designed artisanal dining spaces anchored around themes of traditional Indonesian cuisine, handcrafted decorative elements, exotic cocktails, relaxed atmosphere, and friendly service. Its latest outpost in Sai Ying Pun builds upon this winning concept by adding a distinctive façade and stylish interiors created through a collaboration between PTT Family’s in-house design team and acclaimed Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. The ground floor’s semi-transparent window-wall is embellished with striking white geometric grids, an allusion to the metal security grilles typical of many Hong Kong buildings. Blurring the boundary between indoors and out, it sets the whimsical tone of the overall design concept. A boutique near the entrance offers a curated collection of handmade Indonesian textiles and ceramics, and opposite is an area, complete with hipster barista and state-of-the-art coffee machine, dedicated to PTT Family’s I Love You So coffee brand. Further into the sprawling semi-open plan of 750 m2 is a casual all-day communal café and bar decorated with a quirky blend of Indonesian furnishings, iconic mid-century pieces, and Fujimoto’s trademark hanging mirrored metal plant boxes. Beyond indigo blue drapery is the

在巴里岛和新加坡坐拥超高人气的 Potato Head 早已成为设计享誉盛名的餐厅代名词, 餐厅主题系定传统印尼料理,从手工制装 饰元素、异国风情鸡尾酒,到悠闲格调与 亲切服务,处处都把主题呈现得活灵活现。 品牌的海外新据点座落于西营盘,除 了以上述家喻户晓的概念为基础外,另增 添独树一帜的外观与前卫的内部装潢,全 由 PTT Family 内部设计团队与备受赞誉的 日本建筑师藤本壮介一手打造。 地面层的墙间设大幅半透明窗户,饰 以各式让人熟悉的白色几何装饰,暗示了 香港建筑随处可见的骑楼铁窗,半透明的 设计模糊了室内外界线,让整体设计流泻 出引人入胜的基调。 靠近入口处有陈列着 各式手制印尼织品与陶艺工艺品的精品店, 对 面 摆 放 着 一 台 文 青 风 当 代 咖 啡 机, 向 PTT Family 的 I Love You So 咖啡品牌致敬。 走进向内延展的 750 平方公尺半开放 空间,巧妙地混和着印尼风陈设,搭配 21 世纪中期经典家具以及藤本壮介著名的标 志性悬挂式金属方盒植栽,展现出心思密 布的设计细节。 轻薄蓝色挂帘后方是餐厅 Kaum。率先 攫获目光的天花板由四百片精美木板拼接 组成,每片均由南苏拉威西省托拉查族人 精心彩绘细琢而成。 Kaum 为香港饕客引 入独特的正宗印尼部落餐饮,例如竹筒烧 鸡,将腌渍肉类包覆在香蕉叶后放入竹筒 器皿,放在开放式烤炉上烧烤。 餐厅内装反映了 PTT Family 创办人之 一 Ronald Akili 的创新手法。他说 : 「我对 设计一直很有兴趣,过去几年间,我对自

Potato Head’s trademark relaxed interiors feature an eclectic mix of both mid-century and customdesigned Indonesian furniture. Potato Head 具代表性的悠闲装横,把中世 纪家俱与特制的印尼家俱巧妙地混搭起来。

summer nights

|

TK |

19


20

|

TK | summer nights

fifty-eight-room Katamama hotel earlier this year in Bali. Common to all their projects is a sharp focus on conceiving imaginative spaces that articulate the contemporary Indonesian ethos. In Hong Kong, this philosophy translates into an effortless fusion of traditional crafts with provocative modern style and eco-friendly design—even the cocktails straws are made from bamboo. The bar offers a stylish alternative to the flashy commercial spaces in the city, and it’s already gaining a reputation for cocktails as stimulating and refreshing as its design. The Pedas Margarita, for example, is made with Cimarrón tequila, mescal, honey, chili syrup, pineapple, and lime juice. Akili’s vision is for Potato Head to double as a wireless workplace for creatives, a place where they can rendezvous by day in the café or by night in the venue’s Music Room. Equipped with a collection of vinyl and a sophisticated sound system, this comfy den-like space will host a series of cultural events that are in the works. Potato Head’s guiding principle, says Akili, is that each new venture should be operated like a family business: “We take care of every project and treat it like our own home.”

己的品味愈来愈有信心,更能做到不受他 人的看法影响。我们的优势在于合作的设 计师都很了解我们及想做到的目标。」 Ronald 在他职涯早期,曾委托十位印 尼建筑师设计雅加达最早的住宅区之一, 以反映出当代的印尼本土文化。随后便成 立了第一家 Potato Head,之后他与事业伙 伴 Jason Gunawan 创立了数家极其成功的 酒吧和餐厅,这年较早前更在巴里岛开设 了有 58 间套房的高档 Katamama 酒店。 他们接手的案例全都指向一个焦点, 就是在作品里构建能清楚阐述当代印尼文 化精髓的想象空间。在香港,他们把传统 工艺融合新潮大胆的时尚风格,推动环保 设计,在在诠释了一贯的哲学,就连鸡尾 酒的吸管都要用竹子制成。 这环保酒吧不只设计出名,其刺激又 清 爽 的 鸡 尾 酒 也 颇 受 欢 迎, 例 如 使 用 了 Cimarrón 龙舌兰、梅斯卡尔酒、蜂蜜、辣 味糖浆、凤梨和莱姆汁调制的 Pedas Margarita 就吸引不少爱好者慕名而来。 Ronald 希 望 让 Potato Head 具 备 两 种 面貌,形塑成创意人士的随意工作室,他 们白天能在咖啡厅碰面、而晚上则能聚在 Music Room。这里的黑胶唱片齐全,备有 非凡的高级音响系统,在此舒适的空间内 将举办各种文艺活动,不少已在筹备中。 Ronald 表示,Potato Head 的中心原则 是每一家新店的经营都应像家族企业一般 得到传承与重视 : 「我们会不时造访各家店 面,如同回到自己的家一般。」

COURTESY OF PHHK (3)

restaurant Kaum, a more formal dining area with a dramatic ceiling of four hundred intricately patterned wooden panels carved and painted by the Torajan people of South Sulawesi. The tapas-style gourmet bites menu introduces Hong Kong to a uniquely authentic Indonesian tribal cuisine with dishes like pa’plong ayam, marinated meat that is wrapped in banana leaves, stuffed inside a bamboo shoot, and grilled over an open fire. The interiors reflect the unconventional approach of Ronald Akili, cofounder of PTT Family. “I’ve always been interested in design,” he says, “and over the years I’ve become more confident about my own taste and less concerned about what other people think. Our strength is in collaborating with designers who understand who we are and what we want to do.” Earlier on in his career, Akili commissioned ten Indonesian architects to design one of the first residential complexes in Jakarta to reflect contemporary Indonesian vernacular. The first Potato Head restaurant followed soon thereafter, and since then he and his business partner, Jason Gunawan, have opened several highly successful bars and restaurants, as well as the luxury


DESIGN

summer nights

|

TK |

21


PRESENTED BY RBHK

食「设」性也

dining by design Tasting Kitchen joins RBHK in honoring the best in local restaurant interior design.

cessful addition to the show’s featured events. With more than a hundred entrants, the competition awarded ten top Hong Kong restaurants and their design firms. And with the participation of Tasting Kitchen this year, the scope of the event has been broadened to include Macau. The competition is open to establishments in Hong Kong and Macau entering jointly with their collaborating design firms for projects over the last year in categories that include fine dining, casual dining, bar and cafe. Awards will be presented at a ceremony on September 7 to those who “go above and beyond in their quest to deliver an exciting ambiance for their guests.”

高档食府的焦点无庸置疑在于高品 质与巧妙原创的菜色,其实用餐过 程的其他要素对于营造难忘的餐饮 体验亦至关重要。细意营造的无形 氛围与精心设计塑造的室内美学空 间,能强而有力地刺激感官,提升 享用美食的愉悦感。 香港向来被誉为全球餐厅与酒 吧锐意创新的集中地,而专门设立 以示表彰此领域佼佼者的「香港餐 厅室内设计大奖」今年已堂堂迈入 第二届盛典。 公认在设计方面表现卓越的

Tasting Kitchen 此年将参与其中, 与亚太地区首屈一指的香港餐饮展 共同成为盛典主办方。此届香港餐 饮 展 将 于 9 月 6-8 日 在 香 港 会 议 展览中心举行,可望吸引逾两万名 餐饮业菁英齐聚一堂,更有涵盖餐 厅与酒吧营运、服务、产品、设备 等各个层面的数百家参展商云集在 此,共襄盛典。 去年首届的香港餐厅室内设计 大奖表彰会圆满成功,为餐饮展增 色不少。入围的餐厅超过一百间, 最终选出前十名的香港餐厅与其设 计公司并颁发奖项。加上今年有

Tasting Kitchen 为合办单位,参与 角逐的单位会扩及澳门的餐厅。 此次竞赛邀请所有港澳餐厅与其 合作的设计公司参与,只要在过去 一年内进行装修或新开业的餐厅均 可报名,组别包括高档食府、休闲 餐厅、酒吧和咖啡厅。颁奖典礼将 于 9 月 7 日 举 行, 以 表 彰「 为 宾 客缔造非凡用膳礼遇且不断精益求 精」的获奖者。

For entry information, please visit restaurantandbarhk.com. 欲知参赛资讯,请至restaurantandbarhk.com。

22

|

TK | summer nights

COURTESY OR RBHK (5)

THE PRIME FOCUS of fine dining is understandably the quality and originality of the food. But other elements are also essential to the total experience of a really memorable restaurant meal. The intangible ambiance summoned up by means of inventive and intelligent interior design adds an aesthetic dimension that has the power to stimulate the senses and enhance the pleasures of good food. Hong Kong, long regarded as a world epicenter of innovative restaurant and bar design, now recognizes the region’s highest achievements in the field with the Hong Kong Restaurant Interior Design Awards (HKRIDA), currently in its second year. And this time out, Tasting Kitchen – widely recognized in its own right for outstanding design – is teaming up as co-organizer of the event with Restaurant & Bar Hong Kong, Asia-Pacific’s leading fine dining and bar exhibition. The annual trade show, which draws more than twenty thousand F&B professionals, will be held September 6-8 at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre. Hundreds of exhibitors will participate, representing every aspect of restaurant and bar operations, services, products, and equipment. Last year’s launch of HKRIDA was a highly suc-


↑ 2015年度酒店餐厅金奖 2015 Gold Medal in Hotel Restaurant: Silver Room (Tuve) Design firm: Design Systems Ltd ← 2015年度酒吧金奖 2015 Gold Medal in Bar: Post 97 Design firm: Positive Partnership Limited → 2015年度休闲餐厅金奖 2015 Gold Medal in Casual Dining Restaurant: Penthouse Design firm: Kinney Chan and Associates ↙ 2015年度咖啡厅金奖 2015 Gold Medal in Cafe: The Coffee Academics The Pulse Design firm: The Coffee Academics Company Limited ↘ 2015年度高级餐厅金奖 2015 Gold Medal in Fine Dining Restaurant: Mott 32 Design firm: Wang’s Studio



PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

创意调酒大对决

Spirited Competition Six local finalists square off in the globe’s most anticipated annual cocktail contest.

DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™ has been held 调 酒 界 盛 事「Diageo Reserve World each year since 2009 in search of the world’s best Class™」调酒大赛以寻找全球最棒的调 bartender. Of the forty-seven contestants in the 酒师为目标,自 2009 年开始举办。最 recent Hong Kong and Macau finals, six of HK’s finest 近登场的香港及澳门站决赛,由 47 位参 were selected as finalists to face off in a series of 赛者选出最后六强,于一连两天的系列 challenges that spanned two days. In 挑战赛中继续对阵。第一轮 round one, they were put on the Hot Seat BY 「Hot Seat」环节测试参赛者 to test their knowledge of whisky and ANDREA LO 对威士忌及蒸馏专业知识的 distillation. Then came the Against the 掌 握, 「Against the Clock」 Clock competition to gauge speed, accuPHOTOGRAPHY BY 限时赛则是速度、准确度及 racy, and consistency. And finally, it was DAVID HARTUNG 连 贯 性 的 一 大 考 验。 进 入 time for the Street Food Jam challenge, in 最 后 的 部 分「Street Food which the bartenders were tasked with developing Jam」,参赛者需挑选 Diageo Reserve 帝 original cocktails featuring spirits from the Diageo 亚吉欧高级烈酒系列来制作一款调酒, Reserve portfolio to pair with street-food-style 相互搭配由香港多家顶级餐厅特定的街 dishes created by some of Hong Kong’s top dining 头风格美食。 establishments. 六强中除了新面孔外,也有像 2014 The finalists included newcomers as well as 年冠军 Wallace Lau 及进入 2015 年决赛 veterans like 2014 champion Wallace Lau and 2015 的 Ryan Nightingale 等经验老道的参赛 finalist Ryan Nightingale. But after the rigors of the 者。经过激烈角逐后,最终由来自「208 fray, the crown ultimately went to James Barker of Duecento Otto」 的 James Barker 夺 冠。 208 Duecento Otto, who is now set to participate in 他将代表港澳地区参加九月于迈阿密举 the World Class global finals in September in Miami. 行的「WORLD CLASS™」全球总决赛。 The six finalists reflect on this year’s competi晋级决选的六位好手分享比赛中的 tion and share the inspirations behind the cocktails 点滴,畅谈「Street Food Jam」环节中 they created for the Street Food Jam. 原创调酒的灵感从何而来。

SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

25


PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

James Barker 208 DUECENTO OTTO WOR LD C LA SS ™ CHAMPION Drink name: First & Formosa Ingredients: Tanqueray No. TEN gin, ​ sweet oolong tea, salted ginger syrup, ​ lime, and soda Barker’s cocktail was paired with a Taiwanese street food, a type of deep-fried cruller known as yau char kwai , prepared by VEA Restaurant and Lounge and served with chicken liver mousse, braised pig’s head, carrot, radish, nam phrik , and cilantro. “I tried to take every element of the cocktail to the next level – everything from its preparation and taste to the aesthetics. Tanqueray No. TEN is synonymous with grapefruit, one of the botanicals it’s instilled with, so I used straws with grapefruit zest.” The drink is unexpectedly topped with a pickled Japanese ginger granita.

WORLD CLASS™ 香港及澳门站决赛冠军 调酒名称 :First & Formosa 成分 :Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒、甜乌龙茶、 盐渍生姜糖浆、青柠及苏打

James 原 创 调 酒 搭 配 的 是「VEA Restaurant and Lounge」准备的台式街头美食-酥炸油 红萝卜、 白萝卜、 条, 佐以鸡肝慕斯、 炖猪头肉 、

nam phrik 辣酱及香菜上桌。 「我想把鸡尾酒的组成元素提升到新的 境界-从备料、味道及整体美感都包含在内。

Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒使用葡萄柚及其他 水果蒸馏酿制而成,葡萄柚反映了酒的味道, 所以我特意使用加上葡萄柚皮的吸管。 」最 后覆上别出心裁的日本生姜沙冰,让人喜出 望外。

26

|

TK | summer nights


“It’s exciting to be pitted against people who are of a certain caliber and to see how that drives you. I don’t think I would have made the drinks I did without such fierce competition. It’s great to be pushed to that level, and I can only hope that the same happens in the final. 能和这种等级的参赛者较劲真的让人很兴奋,也会激发自己更往前 一步,若不是竞争如此激烈,我可能也做不出这杯调酒。受到激励 而挑战极限感觉很棒,希望全球决赛时能再次体验这个感觉。”



PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

Wallace Lau TOPIARY

“ I wanted to challenge myself and see how far I could go. You have to work hard and be equipped with knowledge before you can take on the challenges. 我想挑战自己,探索自己的 极限 。百分百投入、熟知 专业知识绝对不可或缺,如 此才有资格接受挑战。”

2014 WORLD CLASS™ CHAMPION Drink name: Shall We Tan? Ingredients: Tanqueray No. TEN gin, Fino sherry, lemon juice, lemon syrup, grapes, basil, and Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label Inspired by Cantopop singer Eason Chan’s hit tune “Shall We Dance,” Lau’s creation also pays tribute to Tanqueray No. TEN. “I wanted it to feel something like an invitation to enjoy the drink,” he says. T he ingredients are shaken, then topped with Veuve Clicquot. A stick of cucumber infused with Tanqueray No. TEN, lightly salted and sprinkled with sesame, is served as a garnish. “I envisioned an aperitif, a lighter drink that readies your palate.” The cocktail is paired with Aberdeen Street Social’s raw Hokkaido scallops, dashi jelly, apple, shiso, avocado, and wasabi purée. “Shall We Tan is on the sweet side,” Lau explains, “which goes well with the scallops.”

2014 年冠军 调酒名称 :Shall We Tan? 成分:Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒、Fino 雪莉酒、 柠檬汁、柠檬糖浆、葡萄、罗勒、凯歌黄牌 香槟 (Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label)

Wallace 这款向 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒致敬 的调酒灵感来自粤语流行歌王陈奕迅的金曲 ,他形容 : 「想让人有受邀 「Shall We Dance」 来品评这杯调酒的感觉。 」 摇杯后所有材料充分混和,再倒入凯歌 香槟。浸润过 Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒的切条 小黄瓜稍微盐渍、洒上芝麻后置于酒杯上作 为装饰。 「这有点像开胃酒的概念,用淡淡的 酒香让人准备好大快朵颐一番。 」 调 酒 搭 配「Aberdeen Street Social」 的 北海道生扇贝、日式高汤冻 、苹果、紫苏、 「 『Shall We 酪梨及日本芥末。 Wallace 说明 : Tan』偏甜,与扇贝的味道搭配的恰到好处。」

summer nights

|

TK |

29


Toby Lo QUINARY

“ World Class stands out from other competitions in that it requires a lot of creativity and knowledge. I gained a great deal from it – I met new friends and was able to learn more about their ideas and experiences. 『World Class』有别于其他比赛, 不同之处在于强调创意及专业 知识的重要性。真的让人获益 良多-我能结交新朋友并从他 们的创意发想及经验中学习。”

30

|

TK | summer nights

Drink name: Chrysanthemum’s Fizz Ingredients: Tanqueray No. TEN gin, chrysanthemum flowers, chamomile black tea cordial, apricot jam, soda Toby Lo was encouraged by his mentor, World Class™ 2015 champion Antonio Lai, to enter the competition. Working with Chaozhou roasted duck and mushroom dumpling by Duddell’s, Lo created the Chrysanthemum’s Fizz. “Dim sum and tea is a classic combination,” says Lo. “I decided to use black tea with dry chrysanthemum as well as chamomile tea cordial. I slow-cooked Tanqueray No. TEN with dry chrysanthemum, infusing the flavors into the spirit. The black tea and chamomile tea were used to create a cordial, which also contains sugar and citric acid. I also added apricot jam for a touch of sweetness.”

调酒名称 :Chrysanthemum’s Fizz 成分 :Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒、菊花、甘菊 红茶甜酒、杏桃果酱、苏打

Toby Lo 在 自 己 调 酒 路 上 的 良 师、2015 年 World Class™ 冠军 Antonio Lai 的鼓励之下, 决定投身此次赛事。 , 他 特 别 调 制「Chrysanthemum’s Fizz」 与都爹利会馆的潮州烤鸭及香菇饺子的味道 相辅相成。他表示 : 「点心及茶是经典组合, 让我想到用菊花及甘菊红茶。Tanqueray No. TEN 琴酒加入干菊花文火慢煮,让菊花香与

酒相融,红茶及甘菊茶则用来做甜酒,包含 糖分及柠檬酸,最后加上杏桃果酱增添一丝 甜味。 」


PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

调酒名称 :Ready to Mingle 成分 :Haig Club 单一谷物苏格兰威士忌、 ​ 西芹、青柠、玉米片及玉米糖浆、香菜、墨 西哥 jalapeño 辣椒酱及苏打 去 年『World Class™』 回 锅 的 参 赛 者 Ryan 「餐酒搭配重点在于找到绝 Nightingale 强调 : 佳的契合及反差之处,抑或找出可以提升菜 色美味程度的关键元素。 」 这 回 要 搭 配 的 是「Amber」 精 心 制 作 的辛辣小点 :玉米粉炸鸡块、蛋白蛋黄酱佐

jalapeño 辣椒、北海道玉米泥、青柠皮、腌 玉米笋及洋葱圈、细香菜。 他表示 : 「这道菜有辣有甜,调酒要能与 之搭配,同时带来对比。我选择加上西芹汁, 衬托鸡肉美味之际,也让酸味变得柔和。 」

“ I really enjoyed World Class. It tests more of your abilities than other competitions do, just by the sheer range of the rounds as well as the knowledge, expertise, and skills demanded of bartenders. 我真的很享受『World Class』比赛过程,对于参 赛者功力的考验,比起其他 赛事来的更多,从跨越知 识、专业度及调酒技巧等不 同回合的挑战即可知道。”

Ryan Nightingale HAM & SHERRY

Drink name: Ready to Mingle Ingredients: Haig Club Single Grain Scotch Whisky, celery, lime, cornmeal and sweet corn syrup, coriander, jalapeño hot sauce, and soda “Food pairings are about finding matches and contrasts, or an element that can highlight the dish,” says Ryan Nightingale, a returning contender from last year’s World Class™ competition. This time out, his cocktail is paired with a piquant dish from Amber: corn-fried chicken finger nuggets, egg-white mayo with jalapeño, Hokkaido corn purée, lime peel, pickled baby corn, pickled onion rings, and micro cilantro. “The dish had a little bit of spice and sweetness,” he explains, “so I wanted to match those flavors. For contrast, I added celery juice, which highlights the savory part of the chicken, while also cutting into the acidity.”

summer nights

|

TK |

31


Alexandre Chatté PARADIS RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL BAR

Drink name: Brukout Ingredients: Coriander-infused Don Julio Blanco Tequila, yuzu, Swedish punsch, manzanilla sherry, and sugar “The moment I tried the food, I knew the path I was going to take,” says Alexandre Chatté. “I wanted something that would contrast with the dish, but also sit well with it.” Mr and Mrs Fox had created a kombuchainfused Korean fried chicken with toasted peanuts and romaine lettuce spear. “To contrast with the dish’s strong, heavy flavors like fermented chili paste, soya bean, and sesame in the kombucha, I wanted to create something fresh, dry, and sour,” he explains. “I started with Don Julio Blanco Tequila, infused sous vide with coriander for sixteen hours.” The cocktail was finished with punsch, a traditional Swedish liqueur. “It balances out the flavors and gives the drink a hint of sweetness.”

调酒名称 :Brukout 成分 :香菜混和 Don Julio Blanco 龙舌兰特调、 柚子、瑞典 punsch 酒、manzanilla 雪莉酒及糖 「食物 Alexandre Chatté 回想创作过程表示 : 入口的瞬间,我就知道要调什么样的酒了。 要与菜色味道呈对比,同时又能互相辉映。 」

“ The competition was a way for me to test the ground. I wanted to see the standards Diageo Reserve set and what it demanded from participants. 调酒大赛是测试自己实力的机会,我想亲身体验主 办方设下的高标准及对参赛者的要求为何。”

「Mr and Mrs Fox」端出来的是红茶菌韩式炸 鸡佐烤花生及萝蔓莴苣。 他进一步说明 : 「为了和红茶菌中发酵辣 酱、大豆及芝麻等浓重的味道形成鲜明对比, 我尽量走清爽、低甜度及酸味路线,首先上 场的​​就 是混以香菜经 16 小时低温处理的 Don

Julio Blanco 龙舌兰。」调酒最后以瑞典传统烈 「配搭让所有味道平衡,完 酒 punsch 收尾, 全融合,还带进些许甜味。 」

32

|

TK | summer nights


PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

Alexander Ko THE OCEAN Drink name: Shepherd in the Mist Ingredients: Talisker 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch Whisky, Bénédictine D.O.M., Mexican mole shrub, pineapple juice, lime, Italian basil, and coriander “I’m seen as more of a straitlaced bartender, and having a casual dish brought a challenge,” says Alexander Ko, who entered his first World Class™ competition in 2014. His cocktail pairs with a pork-neck dish by Brickhouse, served with pineapple, tomatoes, pickled New Mexico chili, cilantro, red onion, dry oregano, and pork rind. “I felt the smokiness of the Talisker would go well with the meat,” he says. The shrub is made from sun-dried tomatoes, ancho chiles, and vinegar infused for six hours sous vide and then sweetened with sugar. The ingredients are strained and served in a coffee cup that features “smoke” from dry ice.

“ My biggest weakness was lack of experience. I wanted to see how much I’ve learned in the two years that have passed since the last time I was in the competition. 缺乏经验曾是我的致命 伤,我想透过这次参 赛,看看上次比赛至今两 年间我成长了多少。”

调酒名称 :Shepherd in the Mist 成分 :Talisker 10 年单一麦芽苏格兰威士忌、 法国廊酒、特调墨西哥甜酒、凤梨汁、青柠、 意大利罗勒及香菜 曾 于 2014 年 叩 关『World Class™』 的 「我给别人的印象比较拘 Alexander Ko 表示 : 束,所以要搭配街头风格来调酒确实是一大 挑战。 」餐点出自「Brickhouse」之手,猪颈 肉加上凤梨、番茄、腌渍新墨西哥辣椒、香菜、 红葱、干牛至及猪皮之后上桌。 他表示 : 「Talisker 的烟熏味和猪肉味道 很搭。 」果汁甜酒则是用日晒番茄干、安可辣 椒及醋混制,低温处理 6 小时后再加糖混和 而成。材料滤干后盛于咖啡杯内,搭上干冰 制造的「烟熏」效果,别具巧思。 summer nights

|

TK |

33


BY MAMIE CHEN

•

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

34

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS


PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

Peacocks and Performance Art



PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

“Ophelia was a twenty-million-dollar gamble that gave me

many sleepless nights. The ideas were all in Ashley Sutton’s head, and I didn’t know what it would look like or how it would turn out. But I had utter belief in his ability.“

「 『Ophelia』是场 2,000 万元的豪赌,我常常为此担心到夜不成眠。Ashley 所有的想法都藏在脑子里,对于酒吧的最终模样和形成的风格, 」 我真的一点头绪都没有,但我对他的能力深具信心,也相信『Ophelia 』一定会和他其他作品一样无懈可击。 SANDEEP SEKHRI

↑↑

↑↑

Truffle mushroom arancini ​ with green goddess dressing

“Le Plumage”: Sagatiba Cachaça with blood orange, gold slab syrup, and a housemade schisandra dram

“The Jade Cat”: Iwai Japanese whisky with Baika Ranman umeshu and ​ a housemade bitter green tea liqueur

Chili whole school prawns ​ with Szechuan salt and nam phrik

巴西赛格提芭甘蔗酒佐血橙、Gold Slab Syrup及自家制Schisandra Dram

日本岩井威士忌佐Baika Ranman 梅酒及自家制绿茶酒

炸松露蘑菇炖饭球配以 绿色女神素食酱

四川盐配以泰式辣椒酱炒虾

SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

37


H A U N T I N G, LY R I C A L N O T E S from a Chinese erhu and lute weave through the rooms and alcoves of Ophelia, arousing curiosity, stirring the senses, and confirming the notion that this is not simply another new cocktail lounge, but rather an entirely original Hong Kong experience. As the music unfurls, an ensemble of lithe muses clad in gorgeous silk cheongsams make a measured entrance, sidling slowly into the room with a languid turn of the wrist, a fluttering flick of the fan, a sultry arch of the back, an enigmatic lowering of the gaze. They soon slither off to various locations. One slips to the outdoor area in back to perform sensual acrobatics inside a large birdcage, two more gracefully ascend to and recline on divans suspended from the backbar, three others linger in the main entrance, perched delicately on swings and an ornate armchair. The artists continue to perform as living paintings throughout the evening, subtly interacting with guests and the surroundings. Sandeep Sekhri, founder and Managing Director of Dining Concepts Ltd., sits at his favorite table in a far back corner, surveying his latest venture. From his vantage point, he’s able to monitor activities at the bar and at the same time catch glimpses into adjoining rooms through tassled archways. He has a perfect view of stunned guests as they enter and first take in the splendor of this one-of-a-kind space conceived by internationally renowned designer Ashley Sutton. Peacock-themed designs in the intricate metalwork that is a hallmark of a designer who once worked as an iron-ore miner proliferate everywhere. They include thirty-two copper and steel wall pieces with real feathers,

38

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS

走进「Ophelia」,二胡及笛子抒情的乐声穿梭各个包厢 角落,动人心弦的乐曲此起彼落,引发好奇心之余也挑 拨感官。不难发现这里不只是新酒吧,等待探索的更是 难以忘怀的全新体验。 余音绕梁之际,身穿闪耀丝制旗袍、身段轻盈的舞 者莲步轻移、缓缓入场,手腕慢动作翻转、轻拍羽扇, 背部弓出撩人的大角度,眼神低垂,充满神秘感。她们 迅速散开,各据不同角落,其中一人回到门外,在大型 鸟笼内展示各种特技动作,相当引人入胜,另外两位舞者 则优雅地倚在吧台后方延伸出来的长沙发椅,还有三人走 到入口处,躺于秋千和华丽贵妃椅上弄姿摆舞。整晚表演 者的舞动犹如画作般赏心悦目,顺应地和客人交流互动。 「Dining Concepts Ltd.( 饮食概念股份有限公司 )」创办 人暨董事总经理 Sandeep Sekhri 坐在酒吧大后方最爱的角 落里,观察新店内的一举一动。他的位置绝佳,恰好将 吧台周边尽收眼底,同时也可瞥见以流苏拱型装饰连结 的不同包厢。Sandeep 相当享受看到客人进场后的惊 艳神情,此一独一无二的华美空间正出自国际知名设 计师 Ashley Sutton 之手。 以孔雀为题,繁复的金属装潢正是设计师的标 记,过去他曾是走访世界各地的铁矿工。孔雀主题 酒吧室内装潢包括 32 件以真羽毛,铜及钢制成的壁面 装饰,柔软眼点外型的铜饰天花板,吧台栏边模拟孔雀 腿雕刻铸造,相同外栏加上雷射切割金属羽毛片制成拱门。


PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

除了以金属为主轴,相互映衬的也包括 60 万片人手绘 copper and velvet eyespot-shaped ceiling panels, cut and rewelded bar 画的孔雀毛眼纹图案磁砖,搭配蓝绿及紫红色泽的华美 rails that simulate scaled legs, and archways of the same rails with laser丝绒饰品,柔和整体色调,各展其美。 Ashley 以孔雀 cut sheet-metal feathers. The abundance of metal is complemented by six 为主轴发想,精选特定元素聚焦、放大处理,以丰富 hundred thousand ceramic tiles hand painted with iridescent eyespots and is 满溢、夸张的手法重复特定元素,让客人沉浸在他的 softened by sumptuous velvet furnishings in teal and plum. With the overrid幻想世界当中。 ing peacock theme in mind, Sutton’s genius zooms in and magnifies a select few elements, purposefully repeating them over and over in an excessive, Sandeep 是在赴曼谷参加 Ashley 另一时尚鸡尾酒 吧力作「Maggie Choo’s」开幕时和设计师初次相遇,并 over-the-top presentation that fully immerses guests in the world he has 成为两人合作的开端。 Sandeep 兴奋表示 : 「看到概念具 envisioned. 体成形,结合聚会及观赏表演两大功能,再搭配绝妙的音乐 “It is amazing how the whole concept comes together both as a 及无可挑剔的美食和饮料,真的让人兴奋不已。『Ophelia』是 venue and as a performance, with great music and excellent food and 场 2,000 万元的豪赌,我常常为此担心到夜不成眠。Ashley 所 drink,” says Sekhri, who first met Sutton in Bangkok at the opening of 有的想法都藏在脑子里,对于酒吧的最终模样和形成的风格, Maggie Choo’s, another of the designer’s extraordinary cocktail lounges. 我真的一点头绪都没有,但我对他的能力深具信心,也相信 “Ophelia was a twenty-million-dollar gamble that gave me many sleepless 『Ophelia 』一定会和他其他作品一样无懈可击。」 nights. The ideas were all in Ashley Sutton’s head, and I didn’t know what it would look like or how it would turn out. But I had utter belief in his ability, Sandeep 经营超过 50 家餐厅,随着「Ophelia」开 幕 首 次 进 军 夜 店 市 场, 可 说 是 集 团 迈 向 转 型 的 一 大 and I knew it would be exceptional, as all his venues are.” 里程碑,紧接着还有两家 Ashley 设计的酒吧「Iron As Sekhri’s first foray into a nightlife venue after more than fifty restaurants, the opening of Ophelia marks a defining moment for Dining Concepts, which is set to Fairies」 及「J. Boroski」 将 于 今 年 夏 天 开 张。 「这是深思熟虑后踏出的一步,不只 open two more Sutton-designed bars, Iron Fairies and J. Boroski, this summer. “It’s Sandeep 强调 : 限于以餐饮相关的概念发挥,我们想在市场引进完 a very intentional move,” says Sekhri. “There are only so many food-related con全不同的体验。确实很多地方都把设计及鸡尾酒玩出 cepts that you can do, and we wanted to bring something completely different 新的花样,但我保证『Ophelia』在香港绝对是独一 to the market. A lot of places are taking design and cocktails to a new level, 无二。」 but Ophelia is truly the only lounge of its kind in Hong Kong.” SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

39


PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

Braised beetroot with hazelnut-infused ricotta, goat cheese, walnuts, honey, mint, and edible flowers 红菜头配以山羊奶酪,核桃,蜂蜜和薄荷


“Music is central to the project. We divide the evening into two sessions. The opening resident DJ plays

a more chill first set to balance the mood for aperitifs. Then a guest DJ raises the beat in the second set.” 「音乐是『Ophelia』不可或缺的一大亮点。夜间分成两部分,开场先由驻店DJ带来分贝量较低 的柔和音乐,可在享用餐前酒欣赏。下半场则由客座DJ接力,进入劲歌舞曲时间。」 C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R S T E FA N O C O L O M B O

↑ Guest DJ Roger De Leon and resident DJ Claire Luke SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

41


PRESENTED BY DINING CONCEPTS

“We place a huge emphasis on performance at Ophelia. The women are beautiful and sensual and even provocative. Rather than dance, they perform in character with very subtle movements.

This is something completely different than anything Hong Kong has ever seen. The whole idea is to come for an experience.” 「『Ophelia』的表演是我们相当重视的一环,款款 出场的舞者都很漂亮、性感,甚至可说是妖艳迷 人。除了舞蹈之外,她们的表演动作细腻,迷离有 特色,和香港市面上可以看到的表演完全不同,让 客人拥有惊艳的『体验』正是店里灵魂之所在。」 SANDEEP SEKHRI

“Cheongasm”: tequila reposado ​ with homemade pomegranate cordial and La Quintinye Vermouth Royal Rouge 龙舌兰、自家制石榴甜酒、皇家甜苦艾酒

42

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS


SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

43


Toastin

g

44

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS

the

Egg


Krug The House of ng’s joins Hong Ko

most creative chefs in celebrating the

JENNY ZARINS

limitless possibilities of a culinary staple.

SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

45



「先有鸡还是先有鸡蛋?」这个问题至今 仍是一个迷团。 但是主厨们却有相当的共 识,无论鸡、还是鸡蛋也是最常用于料理 中。蛋是一种备受推崇、简单且万用的食 材,几乎出现在所有不同文化的菜式当​​中, 如同埃及艳后的美貌,风俗成规亦无法禁 锢其变幻万千分毫。 不论以何种形式烹调的鸡蛋,一旦搭 配法国顶级香槟 Krug Grande Cuvée,无 疑更增添魅力风采。2016 年 Krug 香槟品 牌选择以朴实无华的鸡蛋作主题,广邀全 球优秀主厨们一同探索鸡蛋料理的无限潜 能。

Krug 香槟每年选出一种基本且万用 的食材,作为国际宣传的主题,以激发身 兼品牌大使 Krug Ambassades 的各国大厨 的无限创意与想像。今年更出版了一本新 ,为 书《Poached, Scrambled or Fried? 》 众多将鸡蛋推升至崭新层次的优秀菜式留 下完整纪录。 本 地 焦 点 为 两 家 Krug Ambassades 餐厅和其主厨,分別是 8½ Otto e Mezzo

Bombana 的 Umberto Bombana 和 Nur 的 Nurdin Topham, 另 还 有 14 位 分 别 来 自 城中 14 间高級食府的大厨共襄盛举。他 们将从七月起,推出与香槟 Krug Grande Cuvée 搭 配 的 各 種 原 创 鸡 蛋 菜 式。Krug Grande Cuvée 用上逾 120 款陈酿了十年或 以上的基酒来调配,即是至少得花上二十 年的时间, 才可酿成一瓶​​完美的 Krug 香槟。 大厨们分享他们的菜肴及见解,让 大 家 了 解 为 什 么 搭 配 了 Krug Grande

Cuvée,就算只是小小的鸡蛋都可以变成 细致的美食!

JENNY ZARINS (6)

ALTHOUGH THE ETERNAL QUESTION “Which came first, the chicken or the egg?” remains as unanswerable as ever, there’s little debate among chefs over which of the two edibles holds primacy across the world’s cuisines. The egg is such a venerable, universal, and fundamental part of every culture’s cooking that, like Cleopatra’s charm, custom cannot stale its infinite variety. And when the egg in any form is paired with one of France’s superlative luxuries, Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne, its charm is infinitely enhanced. That’s why in 2016 the House of Krug has chosen to explore the vast potentialities of the humble fruit of the hen, enlisting the talents of top chefs from around the world to do it. Every year Krug selects one essential and versatile ingredient as the focus of an international campaign to stimulate the creative imaginations of chefs at Krug Ambassades – renowned restaurants that feature its Champagnes. And to that end this time out, Krug has published a new book, Poached, Scrambled or Fried ?, that documents the inspired work of these chefs in elevating the egg to new heights. The local spotlight is on two Krug Ambassades and their chefs, Umberto Bombana of 8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana and Nurdin Topham of Nur. Joining the celebration are an additional fourteen chefs from fourteen of Hong Kong’s leading restaurants. Beginning in July, they are pairing their original egg inspirations with Krug Grande Cuvée, the house’s premium Champagne that blends more than a hundred and twenty wines from ten or more years and takes at least twenty years to produce. The chefs share their dishes and insights, demonstrating why – in the company of Krug Grande Cuvée – the unassuming egg never had it so good.

summer nights

|

TK |

47


Yolk Confit, Braised Barley in Truffle Juice, and Melanosporum Truffle “The fact that I hail from Italy obviously means truffles play a very important part in my cooking, and there is no more classic relationship than that of the truffle and the egg. It is this combination that is at the heart of the dish, with the braised vegetables and barley providing the starch that punctuates the richness of the truffle.” 油封蛋黄、黑松露和松露汁炖大麦 我来自意大利,显然松露在我的料理中扮演相当重要 的角色,没有哪两种食材的关系比松露和鸡蛋更经典 了。松露和鸡蛋的组合是这道料理的重心,加上炖煮 蔬菜,以及富含淀粉的大麦凸显了松露的浓郁香味。

48

|

TK | summer nights


PRESENTED BY KRUG

UMBERTO BOMBANA 8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA

How would you describe your culinary philosophy? Generous, authentic, and contemporary.

What is your greatest extravagance in life? Art is my extravagance. I love all kinds of art – for me it is the highest form of human expression.

What does the location of your restaurant bring to the food you serve? Hong Kong is an international city that brings a great sense of vibrancy to my cooking. Guests really have no time – they want to eat extraordinary dishes, but quickly and efficiently. My cuisine has to deliver a clear message in a very short space of time.

How do you like your eggs? I like my eggs done two ways: first, I like them cooked according to my mood and the ingredients I can get that day, and second, I like them the way my mother did them. My mother's eggs have definitely become one of my favorite memories of growing up.

Fo r yo u, w h i c h m u s i c a l wo r k b e st expresses the emotions felt when tasting Krug Grande Cuvée?

JENNY ZARINS (2)

The greatest piece of music for enjoying Krug Grande Cuvée is Luigi Boccherini’s Musica Notturna delle Strade di Madrid, op. 30, no. 6.

您会如何形容您的料理哲学?

鸡蛋料理绝对是我成长过程中最喜欢的回忆

Why?

慷慨、正宗、当代。

之一。

Listen to it and you will see! At Krug, we have discovered that music enhances the tasting experience.

您生命中最恣意挥霍的事?

您认为哪种音乐最能表达品酩 Krug Grande

我愿意投注在艺术上。各种艺术我都爱,对

Cuvée 时的感受?为什么?

我而言,艺术是人类最高的情感表现。

品 酩 Krug Grande Cuvée 时 最 适 合 搭 配 的

Have you ever put all your eggs in one basket?

您餐厅的地点如何影响您的料理?

夜 间 巡 警, 作 品 三 十, 第 六 首。 Krug 香

Many times. Every time I have opened a new restaurant and put my name on the front door.

香港是座国际城市,为我的菜式注入很多活

​ 槟 令 我 们 发 现 音 乐 可 以 提 升 用 餐 体 验。

力。顾客其实没什么时间,只想能快速和有

乐曲是路易吉 • 鲍凯利尼的马德里士兵的

效率地享用一顿难忘的餐点,我的菜色就必

您曾经尝试过孤注一掷?

须在非常短的时间内传达出清楚的讯息。

很多次。每次我成立新餐厅,门口总挂著我 的名字。

And finally, which came first, the chicken or the egg?

您喜欢什么样的鸡蛋烹调方式?

O n l y G o d k n ow s t h e a n s we r to t h a t question.

我喜欢两种方法,第一是随心情和当日食材

最后 …… 到底哪个先有?鸡还是鸡蛋?

来发挥,第二是我母亲的做法,我母亲做的

我想只有天晓得。 summer nights

|

TK |

49


How would you describe your culinary philosophy? The Golden Egg

Nutritious, noble, and healing.

“This recipe is inspired by the Asian tea egg, a dish in which eggs are cooked and then left to marinate in tea leaves, spices, and soy. For my version, I use turmeric with white soy to create our ‘golden egg,’ a symbolic reference to the enjoyment of the wealth that is all around us without the need for greed.”

What is your culinary obsession? Joining the dots between nutrition and gastronomy. Being in Hong Kong has introduced me to the fascinating world of traditional Chinese medicine, which has always existed alongside food, yet provides a new insight for me.

黄金蛋

Tell us about your first unforgettable journey with Krug. For me, it was when I visited Krug Clos du Mesnil and was able to truly appreciate Krug's approach to crafting Champagne based on individuality and the search for good terroir.

您会如何形容您的料理哲学? 营养、高贵、治愈系。

这道菜谱发想自亚洲的茶叶蛋。茶叶蛋 是将蛋煮熟后,泡卤在茶叶、香料和酱 油里。我自己则是用姜黄和白酱油炮 制出「黄金蛋」,象征性地意指在人 们周遭、不需贪婪就能享受的财富。

您对料理有何坚持? 将营养与美食之间一点一点连起来。香港带 我进入传统中药的迷人世界,长久以来中药

What was the most memorable meal you either cooked or ate? Recently, I had a meal at Asador Etxebarri in the countryside of San Sebastian, Spain. We feasted on many dishes, from homemade chorizo and goat's butter to beautiful shellfish and the local aged beef. All of it was cooked to perfection over different woods, putting it amongst the best meals I have ever tasted.

一直存在,却能为我提供食物的全新观点。

请分享您第一次接触 Krug 香槟的难忘旅 程。 那是我初次拜访 Krug 梅斯尼庄园的时候。他 们根据葡萄的独特性并寻找良好的风土条件 产制香槟,让我对 Krug 香槟的技术赞叹不已。

您吃过或烹调过最深刻的餐点是什么? 我最近去西班牙圣塞巴斯提安郊区的 Asador

Etxebarri 餐厅大快朵颐了一番,他们有手工

What is your greatest extravagance in life?

制的辣味小香肠、山羊奶油、甜美的贝类和

Expensive private lessons learning kung fu with a great sifu (kung fu master). Tea tasting and training is always included.

到无可挑剔的境界,是我尝过最美味的餐点

在当地熟成的牛肉,全都用不同的木头烹调 之一。

您生命中最恣意挥霍的事?

How do you like your eggs?

砸重金请一位非常厉害的师父私相传授功夫,

I am presently very fond of Thai-style omelettes cooked at high temperatures so they become light and fluffy.

其中一定包含茶道鉴赏。

您喜欢什么样的鸡蛋烹调方式? 目前我非常喜欢泰式蛋饼,以高温烹调呈现

This is an age-old philosophical question. If you believe in evolution, it is the egg, as all species are derived from other species. If you are more spiritually inclined, however.…

50

|

TK | summer nights

淡黄色泽,且口感松软。

最后 …… 到底哪个先有?鸡还是鸡蛋? 这是个老掉牙的哲学问题了。相信演化的话 就是先有鸡蛋,因为所有物种都是从另一物 种演化而来,但若倾向相信精神层面的话 ……

JENNY ZARINS (2)

And finally, which came first, the chicken or the egg?


PRESENTED BY KRUG

NURDIN TOPHAM NUR

summer nights

|

TK |

51


PRESENTED BY KRUG

↗ I defend the French gastronomic classics, which means to me defending a set of values, including terroirs, traditions, and art de vivre. 我捍卫法式美食经典,​ 就是捍卫一套包括风土条件、 传统、生活艺术的价值。

OLIVIER ELZER

RUBY LAW (5)

SEASONS BY OLIVIER E.

52

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS


↓ I love quail’s eggs. They are a bit richer in taste and look far more delicate in a dish. 我爱用鹌鹑蛋,味道比较浓郁,​ 且在料理中看起来更精致。

CHRIS WHITMORE ABERDEEN STREET SOCIAL

↓ It’s really important to me to use local produce…the food I cook changes depending on the location. 我很重视使用当地农产品, 我的料理会随食材产地而变。

AKRAME BENALLAL AKRAME


PRESENTED BY KRUG

↓ Our philosophy at Foxglove is to create an experience that pulls the customer back in time. Foxglove的哲学是为顾客创造时光倒流的体验。

YURI LIUZZO FOXGLOVE

→ Most memorable meal: “The first time I had dinner at La Famille in Paris where Inaki Aizpitarte was the chef.” 印象最深的一餐:「我第一次在 巴黎 La Famille享用的晚餐,当 时的主厨是 Inaki Aizpitarte。」

FRÉDÉRIC PENEAU SERGE ET LE PHOQUE


↑ ‘East meets west and old meets new’ reflects quite well the way I cook. 我的料理风格显而易见,就是 东西合璧、新旧交融。

HIDEAKI SATO TA VIE

↓ Our restaurant is very close to the two big ​ wet markets in Wan Chai. Every morning I handpick ​ the freshest vegetables and seafood I can find. 我们的餐厅非常靠近湾仔的两大传统市场。​ 每天早上我都会亲自去拣选最新鲜的蔬菜和海鲜。

NG WING SHUN

RUBY LAW (8)

AMUSE BOUCHE


PRESENTED BY KRUG

I try to improve every day, seeking utter satisfaction for my guests and harmony within my team. 我力求每天进步,让我的宾客​ 满意,与团队和谐共处。

JOSEP CASAS CATALUNYA

JOEY SERGENTAKIS THE CONTINENTAL

56

|

TK | summer nights

RUBY LAW (8)

↑ My goal is to keep the flavors bright and well balanced, never too heavy with too many ingredients or too many flavors. 我的目标是维持味道鲜活且平衡地恰到好 处,从不用过多食材或让味道太过厚重。


↓ I love cooking, and that is something ​ you can tell when you step into my kitchen. 我热爱烹饪,这从你一踏进我 的厨房就感觉得到。

VICKY CHENG VEA RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

↘ I am obsessed with doing better every day and moving on without resting. 我坚持每天都要进步,一直往前走,从不停歇。

GABRIELE MILANI THE DRAWING ROOM


↓ I never drink Champagne with jazz. For Krug Grande Cuvée, it has to be either Wagner or salsa. 我从不一边喝香槟一边听爵士。若是 Krug Grande Cuvée,就要配瓦格纳或骚沙音樂。

XAVIER BOYER GADDI’S, HONG KONG

↓ My culinary philosophy is based on creating the finest Cantonese cuisine using traditional cooking methods with dishes presented in a contemporary style. 我的料理哲学是用传统手法、​ 当代摆盘,炮制最上乘的粤式料理。

LAU YIU FAI YAN TOH HEEN


↖ Details make perfection, ​ and perfection is not a detail. 细节造就完美,​ 但完美绝非只着重一小细节。

FABRICE VULIN

RUBY LAW (6)

CAPRICE

SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

59


TASTING NOTES

简朴的美味

inspired by simplicity

Chef Gaetano Palumbo

GAETANO PALUMBO , Executive Sous Chef of The Manor at St. Regis Macao, doesn’t hesitate for a second when asked about his approach to food: “Simplicity and elegance – one of my basic principles is cooking so that every ingredient can have its say, creating the kind of food that is immediately accessible, straightforward dishes that bring our guests the highest level of pure enjoyment.” To accomplish this, Palumbo is on a constant quest for the best quality products from

60

|

TK | summer nights

around the world. “Where I come from in Sicily, everyone grows up with a passion for good food and for the great produce that goes into it, and for me, learning the art of cooking came as naturally as experiencing the pleasures of eating fine food.” Gaetano brings a modern sensibility to his menus, and yet, with over a decade of cosmopolitan culinary experience spanning Asian locales from Taipei to Bangkok, he still retains the core ethos of simple good food and family life from his Sicilian youth. “We source directly from the farmers for prime quality cuts of meat – always delivered chilled, never frozen. We carry some of the rarest cold cuts from Massimo Spigaroli, and our bacalhau comes from Giraldo. With products this good, we’re able to cook in the most understated way possible, so that the authenticity of every element is able to come through.” The lavish seafood platter, for example, showcases the unadorned freshness of the ocean’s bounty. And glorious white asparagus in season is subtly set off with egg curd, quinoa, walnuts, and brown butter sauce. “The brown butter delicately brings out the quinoa’s nuttiness. It’s perfect for diners who want something light and nutritious.” Another star is the Miyazaki wagyu A5 from the highest quality black-haired beef cattle in Japan, available only in limited

quantities. It is robata-grilled and served with heirloom baby carrots seasoned with Sichuan spices. “We also serve a tasting of five cuts of beef from different countries and farms to encourage exploration of flavors and textures that one might not experience otherwise.” Palumbo is continually searching for new taste adventures for his guests. And, as a master sommelier, he stresses the importance of the restaurant’s list of expertly selected wines in completing the culinary journey to simplicity and elegance at The Manor.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

A Sicilian chef brings contemporary European élan to premium ingredients that are allowed to speak for themselves.


Miyazaki Wagyu ​ 宮崎和牛

一提到烹饪秘方,澳门瑞吉金沙城中心酒 店雅舍餐厅的行政副主厨 Gaetano Palumbo 就毫不犹豫地说 : 「我的原则就是简单、雅 致。我常利用唾手可及的食材,烹调出最 天然的美味,简单直接就能带给宾客顶级 享受的独特料理。」 为了这个目标,Gaetano 不断搜罗世界 各地的顶级食材,他说道 : 「在西西里,大 家都爱下厨、热爱美食,我在这样的文化 薰陶下长大,而我更认为学习烹饪艺术的 愉悦跟享受佳肴一样快乐。」 Gaetano 的菜单充满当代崭新元素,他 在亚洲的烹饪旅程横跨各大都市,从台北

到曼谷「煮遍各地」的他已累积十余年的 经验,但仍坚持把从小推崇的西西里菜肴 核心价值-保持简单家常美味的概念呈现 在菜色中。 「为确保品质,我们的肉品都是从农场 冷藏直送,绝非冷冻肉品。我们使用来自 意大利 Massimo Spigaroli 家族农场出产的 冷切肉,用上产自西班牙的鳕鱼来调制盐 腌鳕鱼。以最简单的烹调方式,保留每一 样优质食材的原有鲜味。」 这样的理念,从餐厅的珍味海鲜拼盘便 可体现,原始的海中鲜味不假修饰地呈现。 当季鲜嫩的白芦笋配上软牛奶豆腐、藜麦、

胡桃和简单褐色奶油酱汁也是如此, 「奶油 酱汁能细腻地衬出藜麦的坚果香,是喜爱清 爽、有营养菜色的宾客们的最佳首选。 」 另外,A5 级宫崎和牛炉端烧也是人气 料理,使用被誉为最高品质的日本黑毛和 牛,佐以小红萝卜及四川风味香料,每日 限量供应。「我们也提供包括五种各产于不 同国家、农场的牛肉品尝拼盘 ,鼓励宾客 探索不同的口感和风味。」 Gaetano 总是想为宾客带来全新的味蕾 飨宴,而身为专业侍酒师的他也十分重视 餐厅内供应的精选好酒,务求让宾客能更 完整地体验雅舍餐厅简单、雅致的美馔。 summer nights

|

TK |

61


PRESENTED BY GALAXY ENTERTAINMENT GROUP

龙虾盛荟

lusciously lobster The most majestic of crustaceans is celebrated during June and July across more than twenty-five restaurants of the Galaxy Entertainment Group (GEG).

A LOBSTER FEAST of ocean-size proportions is underway this summer in Macau. The brainchild of Galaxy Entertainment Group (GEG), the event is taking place at

今夏龙虾盛荟要来澳门了! 6 至 7 月期

dozens of venues across two properties, Galaxy Macau and StarWorld Hotel. Over the past year, GEG has racked up a record eleven Michelin awards, six SCMP 100 Top Tables awards, and a Top 20 Best Restaurants award from Hong Kong Tatler and Macau Tatler. Stellar chefs at participating restaurants have been exercising their skills and imaginations to create more than thirty-five deliciously original ways of preparing and presenting the world’s most sought-after seafood. Diners are free to let their taste buds lead the way on a round-the-world culinary pleasure cruise, with destination cuisines ranging from Thai to Italian to Cantonese. Hot dishes to cold, salads to gratins, each restaurant has done its utmost to bring out the best of all lobster can be. A case in point is Lobster & Chips with Cognac Sauce at Banyan Tree Macau Belon. Fresh Boston lobster is cut up, marinated, dipped in tempura batter, and fried in a wok until golden. Chips of beets, potatoes, and carrots are fried to crispiness in butter and served with a zesty sauce of Cognac, tomato ketchup, fresh lemon juice, Maldon sea salt and crushed black pepper. StarWorld Hotel’s Michelin-starred Feng Wei Ju, which offers a melting pot of spicy Chuan-Xiang cuisine, presents Steamed Lobster with Preserved Chili. Half a lobster is placed atop sautéed Hunan chili and minced ginger combined with seasoned vermicelli. It is perfectly steamed and finished with hot oil and chopped green onion. And what kind of a feast would it be without Lobster Pizza? The crispy crust is baked with lobster tomato sauce, lobster, artichokes, anchovies, olives and basil. Galaxy Macau is offering the irresistible treat at The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge.

府将精心呈献多款龙虾菜色。过去一年银

间银河娱乐集团将举行「龙虾盛荟」推广: 澳门银河与澳门星际酒店旗下的数十家食 河娱乐集团餐饮美食大获肯定,囊括高达

11 颗米其林奖项、6 项由《南华早报》颁 发的「100 Top Tables」大奖,以及 Hong Kong Tatler 和 Macau Tatler 颁发的「Top 20 最佳食府」殊荣。 技 艺 精 湛 的 大 厨 们 发 挥 妙 思 巧 手, 以超过 35 款美味原创手法,为食饕呈献 最诱人的龙虾佳肴。 一如乘坐环游世界的邮轮,饕客可 恣意遨游美食汪洋,品尝泰式、意式、粤 式的海中鲜味,尽情满足味蕾。从热食到 冷盘、沙律到焗烤,各家食府无不使出浑 身解数,烹调令人食指大动的珍馐美味。 值得一提的是澳门悦榕庄贝隆餐厅 的香脆龙虾及蔬菜薄脆配干邑酱。主厨 先把新鲜波士顿龙虾切粒,腌渍后拌入 天妇罗粉浆,在油锅内炸至金黄色。红 甜菜头、土豆和红萝卜伴牛油炸成薄脆, 再搭配由干邑白兰地、西红柿、鲜榨柠 檬汁、马尔顿海盐、黑胡椒碎混合而成 的酱汁。 澳门星际酒店的米其林星级食府风 味居则推出融和湘川特色的剁椒蒸大西洋 龙虾。龙虾放在经炒香的湖南老兵剁椒、 姜茸,和弹牙粉丝上清蒸,最后淋上热油 与葱花即可上碟品尝。 若以「盛荟」为名又怎么少得了龙 虾薄饼呢?饼皮铺上龙虾西红柿汁、龙虾 肉、洋蓟、鯷鱼、橄榄和罗勒一同烤至酥 卡伦威士忌吧可享用。

Lobster Feast: promo.galaxymacau.com/en/boa/lobster

62

|

TK | summer nights

PHOTOS COURTESY OF GALAXY MACAU (3)

脆。这令人难以抗拒的美馔在澳门银河麦


Feng Wei Ju Steamed Lobster ​ with Preserved Chili 风味居 剁椒蒸大西洋龙虾

The Macallan Whisky Bar & Lounge Lobster Pizza 麦卡伦威士忌吧 意式龙虾薄饼

Belon Lobster & Chips ​ with Cognac Sauce 贝隆餐厅 香脆龙虾&蔬菜薄脆​ 配干邑酱

SUMMER NIGHTS | TK |

63



PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

秀色盛夏飨宴

summer stars

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Japan’s seasonal specialties steal the show at Hide Yamamoto.

EXECUTIVE CHEF RYOSUKE HIGASHINO is introducing several new star-quality summer menus at Hide Yamamoto, Studio City’s finedining Japanese restaurant that immerses guests in a multi-sensory culinary experience. Its master craftsmen work in full view of diners at stations dedicated to authentic sushi/sashimi, teppanyaki, and robabta dishes. One highlight of the four-course set lunch menu is the remarkable signature Grilled Spring Chicken with Truffle Rice. An exemplar of the extreme attention to detail lavished on every dish, the chicken is first marinated in duck fat and salt for three days before being slow-cooked and then finished with finesse on the grill. The result is a crispy, savory outside and a super-succulent inside. Another temptation is the five-course Summer Energy dinner menu. It begins with Japanese sweet corn presented in three forms: tempura, sushi, and flan. “Every summer, the Japanese celebrate corn,” says the chef. “We select the sweetest, and in this dish I make it the star.” Next is a 400 g Japanese rock oyster prepared in one of two ways: raw with ponzu or deep fried. “These impressively large oysters were chosen for their outstanding flavor, which is always at its peak in summer.” The main course, Kumamoto Ajisai wagyu, is masterfully grilled and served with sweet onion purée and mizuna leaf. “This particular wagyu has more intense flavor than that from any other part of Japan – it’s a must-try!” The beef is accompanied by garlic rice with zesty lemon relish prepared on the teppanyaki. And the perfect finish is creamy panna cotta with Yamanashi grapes, served both fresh and jellied. “My menus are designed to energize and refresh,” remarks Higashino. “I want to bring our diners the truest taste of summer in Japan.”

Salmon and Yellowtail Sashimi 三文鱼和鰤鱼刺身 ← Summer Energy Dinner Course Menu 醒神夏天晚市套餐

新濠影汇高级日式食府「山本秀正餐厅」 行政总厨东野亮介推出数款星级体验的 夏令菜单,为宾客打造多重愉悦感官飨 宴。不仅味蕾获得满足,宾客还可在用 膳过程中一览大厨在工作台出神入化的 手艺,观赏寿司、生鱼片、铁板烧、端 炉烧的制作表演。 午式套餐共有四道菜式,总厨对细 节的一丝不苟尽显无遗。其中,招牌菜 「半只童子鸡配松露饭」相当引人瞩目, 也是总厨敬业与坚持的最佳例证 :童子 鸡先在鸭油和盐里浸泡三天,然后经过 慢炖,最后精心烧烤而成,成品外皮酥脆、 香气四溢,内里湿润多汁。 另一令人垂涎三尺的是配有五道菜 式的夏令晚市套餐,开胃菜为鲜甜日本

粟米,以天妇罗、寿司、果馅饼三式呈现。 : 总厨说道 「每到夏季日本人就爱吃玉米, 最鲜甜清美的玉米会在我的手中化为饭 桌上的闪耀明星。」第二道是重达四百公 克的日本岩蚝,可选择刺身搭配柚子醋 或以日式脆炸享用。 「我们精选超大生蚝,因为它们风味 别致出众,夏季时更格外鲜甜。」主菜迎 来熊本和牛扒,炭烧后搭配洋葱蓉及辣 味京水菜。「这种和牛比来自日本其他地 区的和牛味道更浓,非尝不可!」伴随 着的是铁板蒜蓉饭佐爽口柠檬酱,最后 以新鲜山梨葡萄、柔滑意式奶冻及 啫 喱 划下可口清甜的完美句点。 东野总厨说: 「我的菜色清新充满活力,带给饕客真正 畅快的日本夏令飨宴。」 summer nights

|

TK |

65


PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

仲夏意味无穷

italian summer The authentic flavors of Italy’s season of the sun come vividly alive at Studio City’s Trattoria Il Mulino.

66

|

TK | summer nights

exacting standards. For example, two of the premium beef choices, the tomahawk and the T-bone, are imported from Australia. The chef recommends these cuts to diners seeking a well-marbled, intensely flavorful steak. And he suggests the Canadian Angus beef short ribs, slow-cooked for nine hours and finished on the grill, to those who crave a melt-in-the-mouth experience. The seafood menu showcases sea bream, sea bass, and halibut. The first two arrive fresh from the Mediterranean and are presented whole. “It’s the traditional Italian way of serving grilled fish. It looks so appealingly fresh-caught, and of course cooking it on the bone brings out the full flavor.” With prime ingredients of this quality, only the simplest of native seasonings – fresh herbs, olive oil, lemon, and salt – are needed to make Noviello’s dishes shine with all the brilliance of the warm Italian summer.

↖ Grilled Short Rib on the Bone ​ with Veal Jus 扒牛扒骨配小牛肉汁 ↗ Whole Grilled Sea Bass ​ with Lemon Butter Sauce 扒原条海鲈鱼配牛油柠檬汁

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

FOR PARIDE NOVIELLO, chef of contemporary Italian restaurant Trattoria Il Mulino, there are certain definite requirements for creating exceptional dishes. The first is to ensure that every ingredient is of top quality. The second is to find a way to make the key ingredient the hero of the story. And the third is to translate the meaning of each ingredient into authentically Italian food that speaks with flavor in every bite. Seasonality is also very important, and right now Trattoria Il Mulino is featuring two menus – one highlighting meat and the other seafood – that celebrate an irresistible Italian seasonal tradition. “Grilling is immensely popular in Italy in summer when dishes are lighter,” says Noviello, “Exactly what diners want during the warmer months.”Sticking with Italian ingredients first and foremost, Noviello also sources products from other places – as long as they meet his

身为新濠影汇当代意式餐厅「意 • 味」的 主 厨,Paride Noviello 认 为 制 作 人 间 至 味 必须具备几个关键要素 :第一,确保食材 均为上上之选 ;第二,让主食材在菜式中 发挥主角光环 ;第三,要使每一次入口的 道地意式料理都充分诠释出食材的本质美 味。 意大利菜注重当季食材的最佳结合, 「意 • 味」为迎合意大利时令传统,正应时 推出主打肉类和主打海鲜的两个菜单,精 选意式美膳珍馐令人难以抗拒。 Paride 说: 「夏令菜色清爽,烧烤因而大受欢迎,在 炎热季节可谓正中饕客下怀。」而在食材 选择上,Paride 坚持来自意大利的原食材 优先,也会从其他来源挑选,前提是质量 必须符合他的高标准。例如战斧扒和 T 骨 扒两种上乘牛肉,他便采用澳洲进口和牛, 更大力推荐此部位给讲究细密油花且喜好 浓郁味道的人。 对于偏爱肉嫩入口即化口感的饕客, 他则推荐先慢炖九小时再经过精心烧烤的 加拿大安格斯牛肋骨。海鲜菜单则包括鲷 鱼、鲈鱼、比目鱼,前两者不仅从地中海 新鲜直送,而且是原条上桌。「这是传统 呈献方式,新鲜渔获已经十分诱人,带骨 一起烹调更能提出完整鲜味。」有了如此 优质的主食材,接着只需新鲜香草、橄榄 油、柠檬、盐巴等最朴实的在地佐料,就 能让 Paride 的仲夏菜色熠熠生辉,闪耀着 意大利独有的夏日光芒。



68

|

TK | summer nights


PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

辛香疗养之旅

spicing it up

DAVID HARTUNG

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, indulges guests in revitalizing treatments that sound good enough to eat.

NO LONGER is it only the Michelin-starred restaurants of Macau that offer enticing arrays of exotic ingredients. The treatment menus at some of its most prestigious spas now include such tempting offerings as chocolate face masks, mango scrubs, and sangria soaks. And while eating natural foods has long been associated with wellness, luxury spas are introducing more and more edibles into their regimens to soothe and invigorate the skin – and leave customers feeling and looking healthier. The Spices of Portugal signature treatment at The Spa is distinctive in its use of products indigenous to the area. “This unique journey was created exclusively for Mandarin Oriental, Macau,” says Manager Genesis Day Lagasca. “It’s an homage to Macau’s Portuguese heritage, providing an authentic sense of place.” Incorporating ingredients that were precious cargo during the Portuguese Empire’s ascendancy in the spice trade, the 120-minute treatment allows guests to unwind in a tranquil ambience of well-being. The regimen begins with a soothing foot bath that alludes to Macau’s Asian heritage. “This ritual is a sign of respect,” says Genesis, “It’s when the therapist connects with the guest, establishing a chemistry. Sea salt for drawing out negative energy, green tea for detoxifying, and cinnamon for warmth summer nights

|

TK |

69


70

|

TK | summer nights

在澳门,让人心动的异国食材不仅在米 其林餐厅找得到,多间顶级水疗中心亦 考虑到食物和身体的密切关系,引进各 式食材为水疗原料,推出诱人疗程如朱 古力面膜、芒果去角质磨沙及 sangria 水 果酒泡浴等以补足肌肤舒缓再生,让客 人从内而外都倍感活力,更加健康。 澳门文华东方酒店水疗中心独创的 「葡国情怀」疗程均使用在地产品,经理 Genesis Day Lagasca 表示 : 「这套水疗疗 程专为我们澳门酒店设计,别无二家,也 像是对澳门特有的葡萄牙文化致敬。 」疗 程多种香料正是葡萄牙称霸香料贸易鼎盛 时期的珍贵货物。120 分钟的养生疗程糅 合澳门特色, 并以令人放松的足浴为序曲。 Genesis 说道 : 「此安排是为突显对客人的 尊重,芳疗师可与客人交流,建立默契。 而足浴用到的海盐可将负能量驱出体外, 绿茶亦有助排毒,再配以性温的肉桂轻洗 足部,让客人调息心神,为接下来的疗程 作准备。 」 疗程先以橄榄果核磨粉、迷迭香及薰 衣草制成的磨砂膏进行全身舒缓去角质。 橄榄核可深层清洁毛孔,芳香蒸气浴活化 肌肤,焕发光泽。芳疗师再以生姜、丁香、 黑胡椒、薰衣草、迷迭香等多种葡萄牙香 料浸泡而成的芳香抒压精油,加上些许肉 桂,进行全身热石按摩,唤醒肌肤,回复 光彩。 Genesis 强调 : 「按摩精油由伦敦的 芳疗师针对疗程特制,其暖和特性和葡 萄牙的辛劲食材相辅相成,有利肌肤保 养。皮肤吸取精华后冲水,可一同洗净 体内毒素。」黑胡椒及迷迭香有舒缓肌肉 紧绷的作用、生姜以助消化、丁香可促 进心血管健康、肉桂对新陈代谢功能有 所助益,而火山石则专门用以协助肌肤 吸收芳疗精油,Genesis 说明 : 「它们可 以吸收负能量,疗愈效果极佳。倍觉劳 累的人使用此石可将疲倦一扫而空。每 一下热石按摩功效等同五六下高强度指 压按摩,能量及修复力道比拟深层组织 按摩,却不会感到任何不适。」 此外,水疗中心的养生红茶也很受 欢迎,怡神温茶以普洱、红枣、枸杞及 龙眼干浸泡。食材富含抗氧化物,据说 可加强免疫系统、改善循环并延缓老化。 来一杯具舒缓功效的茶饮,就像为旅程 划下了完美句点,身心灵重拾光彩。

DAVID HARTUNG

are used in combination to gently wash the feet and set the tone for the rest of the treatment.” A calming, body-cleansing exfoliation is next, using a scrub of ground olive pits, rosemary, and lavender. The olive pits work to deep-clean pores, and the fragrant steam shower softens and revitalizes the skin. A de-stress oil containing an aromatic Portuguese spice infusion of ginger, cloves, black pepper, lavender, rosemary, and a hint of cinnamon is used to stimulate and revive the skin in conjunction with a hot-stone body massage. “It’s a very unusual oil, created by our aromatherapist in London specifically for this journey,” says Genesis. “It has warming notes that match the spiciness of Portuguese food. These essential oils are really nature’s gifts when it comes to skin care. They’re absorbed by the skin and then flushed out, taking toxins along with them.” The oil’s ingredients, traditionally found in kitchen spice shelves, have now become food for the skin. Black pepper and rosemary, for instance, are said to relieve muscle tension. And many believe that ginger aids digestion, cloves promote cardiovascular health, and cinnamon supports metabolic function. Volcanic stones are used to help the skin drink in the therapeutic oil. “The heated stones produce a remarkable healing effect by absorbing negative energy,” explains Genesis. “If you’re exhausted, they absorb tiredness. If you’re under strain, they absorb the stress. Each stroke is equivalent to five or six strokes of strong pressure. It’s as powerful and restorative as deep-tissue massage, but without the discomfort.” Guests can also enjoy The Spa’s delicious Red Dragon Warmth Tea, an exclusive blend of pu-erh, red dates, goji berries, and dried longan, known as “dragon eye.” Rich in antioxidants that are reported to strengthen the immune system, improve circulation, and delay the effects of aging, the soothing cup adds a final glow to a rejuvenating journey to well-being.


PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

summer nights

|

TK |

71


72

|

TK | summer nights


WINE MASTER

家族共业

Philippe de Sereys de Rothschild finds a quiet interlude at Vinexpo Hong

all in the family

Kong 2016 to chat with Mamie Chen about working with family as well as the need for focus and patience in the wine business. §  法国酒业大亨 Philippe de Sereys de Rothschild于 2016年香港酒展Vinexpo期间特别抽

空接受TK记者Mamie Chen专访,细 说家族经营点滴及酿酒业所需的专 注力及耐心。

DAVID HARTUNG

The board meetings for Champagne Barons de Rothschild must feel like a big reunion with all three branches of your family involved. This is really the first time in over two hundred years that the family has ever gotten together to do a single project like this, so it’s very important to us. The only problem is that because we don’t get a chance to meet that often, we could easily talk about a hundred other things before we get around to the Champagne. But it is very important to all of us. Everyone is so busy, and sometimes one person has to miss a meeting, but 80 percent of the time, at least 80 percent of the board is present, which is quite good. Whose idea was it to bring the families together for this venture? Everyone had a connection to Champagne in some way – my grandfather was one of the main shareholders of Ruinart and had his own little label of Champagne in the 1970s called Réserve Baron Philippe summer nights

|

TK |

73


de Rothschild by Champagne Henriot. But Benjamin [of Château Clarke, Compagnie Vinicole Baron Edmond de Rothschild] is the one who pushed the idea forward and led the way. We agreed, and all the families became involved as a whole. No one branch is on top of the others. Was it challenging to come together around a single vision for the Champagne? Not at all. Although Champagne is a wine, it’s a completely different product. So we knew not to compare the Champagne development with our previous experience with other wines. That’s the reason we brought in Frédéric Mairesse. We wanted someone independent from the three families, someone from the Champagne region with specific Champagne experience to develop and run the business. Now, what the family knows is how to manage the image. The area that we spent the most time discussing was not the product or pricing or distribution. It was the packaging, because that is what conveys our image even before people taste the Champagne. We had endless discussions about the size of the label. When we were ready to release the vintage, it took us close to two years to select the color of the bottle. Green, black, brown, it went on and on and on. What was your greatest challenge? Our first concern was to get the right supply. Getting high-quality supply in Champagne is very different than with other regions because good suppliers are tied up in long-term contracts. It took us quite a bit of time to build our little club of growers of high-quality grapes. And we are very much chardonnay-oriented. We thought that would be a good way to differentiate ourselves. Our brut is over 60 percent chardonnay, and our rosé is 85 percent chardonnay, which is very rare and very, very good. But chardonnay is very difficult. It’s more difficult in terms of finding the wine growers, in terms of blending, and

74

|

TK | summer nights


WINE MASTER

in terms of aging – you need to keep it in the cellar for a minimum of four to five years.

LIONEL MOULET

You were named chairman of the board of Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A. in 2014. Having worked in other industries, did you need a period of adjustment to the wine business? I had been VP for five or six years, working closely with my mother before she passed away. And now I work very closely with my sister and brother, who are on the board. We make all major decisions together. But yes, I had to learn how to walk slowly. The wine business is a slow business, especially compared to the software and private equity industries. Wine works on a completely different time scale. When you buy a piece of land and want to replant it, you have to pull out the vineyard, then wait three years, then plant it, and wait another three years before you get a good harvest. So that’s seven years before anything really happens. In private equity, you get the returns on a project in seven years. For us, seven years is just the beginning. The secret for success in the wine business is to be patient and stay focused. Opus One took more than twenty years to become a success, and they were successful because they stayed focused on their product. They could have done an Opus Two and Opus Three and so on. The temptation to do many things is huge. You have to force yourself to stay on a long-term schedule. We will have new projects and we will make big decisions. But there is no urgency. In wine, whatever decisions we make, we’ll have to live with for the next twenty-five years. Were you surprised, then, by how quickly you received such favorable feedback on Barons de Rothschild Champagne? I was very nervous when we released the vintage because I knew that people were going to look closely at us. We’re happy, because we’ve been well received by the market in terms of quality, and we’ve grown every year. But we’re just at the beginning of the beginning. There is still a lot more to come.

罗斯柴尔德香槟召开董事会时,合作的三 个家族分支代表均会出席,感觉一定就像 家庭聚会是吗? 这真是两百年来首次各家族为了同一 计画而携手合作,对我们来说意义非凡。 问题是我们平常没有太多机会见面,每当 会面时话匣子就停不下来,讲半天才会回 到香槟这个正题。 计画的重要性我们再清楚不过,大家 都很忙,难免有时有代表无法出席,但至 今每次会面都将近有 8 成董事出席,算是 很不错。 促成各家族协力合作是谁的主意? 其实大家或多或少都和香槟有关连 - 我 的 祖 父 是 Ruinart 酒 庄 主 要 股 东 之 一,70 年代还曾推出自己的小众香槟品 牌 Réserve Baron Philippe de Rothschild by Champagne Henriot。但真正的幕后功臣 非埃德蒙罗斯柴尔德集团克拉克酒庄的主 事者 Benjamin 莫属,他一直推动计划向 前。我们意见一致,各家族同心投入,每 个家族酒庄的参与都不可或缺,没有高下 之分。 大家要达成共识,对香槟有相同的愿景, 挑战性大吗? 一点也不,香槟虽属酒类的一种,却 是个完全不同的品项,我们不会把香槟酿 造过程和过往制作其他葡萄酒的经验相比 拟。因此我们延揽了 Frédéric Mairesse 加 入团队,他角色独立,同时来自香槟区, 可将专业的香槟经验应用于品牌的后续发 展及经营。 现在,全家族都知道经营品牌形象有 多么重要,我们花最多时间讨论的不是产 品、订价或分销,而是整体包装。那是商 品给人的第一印象,在顾客品尝香槟之前 经已展示的品牌形象。光是对于酒标的大 小,讨论就几乎没完没了,等进入预备发 售阶段,又花了将近两年的时间挑选酒瓶 的颜色。绿色、黑色或咖啡色等,开展讨 论之后简直一发不可收拾。 您们遇到最大的挑战为何? 首先就是要确定供给来源可靠无虞, 在香槟区想找高品质的供应管道和其他 地方不同,好的供应商几乎早就被选中, 绑了长约。我们着实花了好一段时间才

和几个生产一流葡萄的庄园建立合作关 系。 香槟以霞多丽葡萄种为主,也是我 们认为建立市场识别的好方法。品牌香 槟含 60% 霞多丽,玫瑰香槟更是高达 85%, 相当罕见之余, 味道也是无懈可击。 但难度也相当高。单就混酿来说,找到 合适酿酒师已教人头痛,至于陈酿,则 是要置于酒窖至少 4 到 5 年的时间才行。

2014 年 Baron Philippe de Rothschild S.A. 董事会推举您为主席,此前 您一直涉猎其他产业,进入酒业有历经 适应期吗? 我担任副主席已有 5 到 6 年时间, 在母亲过世前我一直和她密切工作,现 在我则和兄弟姊妹共同合作,大家也是 董事会成员,重大决策都是一起开会定 案的。 不过确实,我已学会放慢脚步。酒 业和软体产业及私募股权企业相比,步 调更见缓慢。酿酒业花的时间大有别于 其他产业。如果买了块地想重新栽种, 需将葡萄藤整个翻整清空,等上 3 年才 能种植,然后再等 3 年才能丰收,算起 来整整有 7 年的静待期,套到私募股权 企业里,7 年早已可以坐等收益,但对 酿酒业来说,7 年只是一切的起点而已。 酿酒业的成功秘诀就是保持耐心、 专心致志。Opus One 作品一号酒庄耕耘 超过 20 年才出头,而成功之道无他,就 是持续对产品投注心力,从不间歇。他 们大可转而去发展二号或三号,途中会 出现许多诱惑,让人分心做其他事情, 能做的就是拟定长期计画,告诉自己非 按部就班不可。我们也有新计画、也会 做其他重大的决定,但不会操之过急。 身处酿酒业,所做的任何决定均有长远 的影响,成败会伴随我们接下来二十五 年的日子。 罗斯柴尔德香槟短时间内大获好评有出 乎您意料之外吗? 刚 推 出 时 我 非 常 紧 张, 我 知 道 大 家一定会十分注视,不过目前为止市 场对于香槟品质赞誉有加,让我们非 常开心,销量也年年见长。但我们相 信这才是最开始的阶段,未来可期的 事情还多著呢。 summer nights

|

TK |

75


SUBSCRIBE 25% off

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

contact information name

address

postal code

country

Kindly return the completed form to: Fax +852 3916 2002

company name

title

Mail Tasting Kitchen Attention: Terrie Lam

phone

fax

Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong

email

Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.” Tel +852 3915 7218

76

|

TK | SUMMER NIGHTS



RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

208 Duecento Otto 5

Rustic Italian

208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环荷李活道208号 q +852 2549 0208

Bar: Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00 ​ Afternoon: Daily: 15:00-18:00 Dinner: Mon to Thu: 18:0000:00; Fri to Sat: 18:00-00:00;

Ophelia

Sun: 18:00-22:00 Brunch: Sat: 12:00-15:00; ​ Sun: 11:00-16:00

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩

Quinary

The Tasting Room 御膳房

Restaurant:

Cantonese Level 2, The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地 新濠大道二楼 q +853 8868 2822 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers ankle-deep with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

Bar & Lounge 56-58 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷里活道56-58号地下 q +852 2851 3223 Mon to Sat: 17:00-02:00

French Level 3, Crown Towers at City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地 皇冠度假酒店三楼 q +853 8868 6681 Daily: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room. Gentlemen should refrain from wearing sleeveless t-shirts, shorts, open shoes (sandals) or slippers.

Dinner: Mon to Sat: 19:0000:00 Mon to Thu 22:30; Fri to Sat 23:00; Sun: 18:30-00:00 Brunch: Sat: 12:00-15:00 ; ​ Sun: 11:00-16:00

8½ Otto e Mezzo Bombana 5

Italian Shop 202, Landmark Alexandra, 18 Chater Road, Central, Hong Kong

香港中环德辅道中18号历山大 厦2楼202号铺 q +852 2537 8859

Mon to Sat: 12:00-14:30; 18:3022:30 A Smart Casual

Ham & Sherry 5

Spanish 1-7 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong

香港湾仔船街1-7号 q +852 2555 0628

Back Bar: Mon to Sat: 18:00 till late Restaurant: Mon to Sat: 12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 Sun: 12:00-21:00

Hide Yamamoto 山本秀正餐厅 5

Japanese Shop 1091, Level 1, The Boulevard at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau

澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠影汇 购物大道一楼1091店 q +853 8865 3300

Daily: 11:30-15:00; 17:30-23:00 A Smart Casual

78

|

TK | summer nights

Nur Restaurant Western 3/F, 1 Lyndhurst Terrace, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环摆花街1号广场3楼 q +852 2871 9993 Tue to Sun: 18:30-00:00 A Dressy 5

Ophelia Tapas Bars Shop 39A, 1/F, The Avenue, Lee Tung Avenue, Wan Chai, ​ Hong Kong 香港湾仔皇后大道东200号利东 街囍汇1楼39A至41A店铺 q +852 2520 1117 Tue to Thu: 18:00-02:00 Fri to Sat: 18:00-04:00 A Smart Casual 5

Paradis Restaurant & Cocktail Bar Caribbean and French 3/F, 46–48 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街46–48号3楼 q +852 3182 0105 Tue: 17:00-01:00​ Wed to Sat: 17:00-03:00 5

5

The Manor 雅舍 International 1/F, The St. Regis Macao, Estrada Do Istmo. S/N Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路澳门瑞吉 金沙城中心酒店1楼 q +853 8113 2777 Daily: Breakfast: 6:30-10:30 Lunch: 12:00-15:00 Dinner: 18:00-23:00 Verandah: 12:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Ocean International Shop 303-304, Lobby A, The Pulse, 28 Beach Road, Repulse Bay, Hong Kong 香港浅水湾海滩道28号3楼303304号铺 q +852 2889 5939 Daily: 12:30-14:30; 18:30-22:00 5

5

Topiary Bar & Lounge 3/F, Hilltop Plaza, 49-51 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环荷里活道49-51号鸿丰 商业中心3楼 q +852 2866 6485 Mon to Fri: 18:00-02:00 Sat: 17:00-02:00 Sun: 16:00-00:00 5

Potato Head Indonesian G/F, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong 香港西营盘第三街100号地下 q +852 2858 6066 Tue to Sun: 10:00-00:00 5

The Spa at Mandarin Oriental, Macau 澳门文华东方水疗中心 Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr. Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门皇朝区孙逸仙博士大马路 澳门文华东方酒店 q +853 8805 8588 Daily: 11:00-23:00

Trattoria Il Mulino 意•味 Italian Shop 1079, Level 1, The Boulevard at Studio City, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠影汇 购物大道一楼1079店 q +853 8865 6662 Mon to Fri: Lunch: 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-23:00; Saturday: 11:00-00:00; Sunday & Public Holidays: 11:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:00-15:00

5



DESSERT

Bubble Chocolate and Cherries is a summer dessert from Astoria Koh, Pastry Chef at two-Michelin-star The Tasting Room by Galliot. “Chocolate and cherries go together perfectly,” says Koh, an alumnus of Le Cordon Bleu Australia-Sydney. French cherries are marinated in a reduction of their own juice and served with a cocoa sable, mint Chantilly, moelleux au chocolat (Valrhona Guanaja 70%), and a deliciously rich dark chocolate ice cream.

DAVID HARTUNG

樱桃泡沫巧克力是大厨Galliot执掌的二星米其林餐厅The Tasting Room的夏日甜点,由甜点师傅Astoria Koh一手打 造。Astoria毕业于蓝带国际悉尼厨艺学院,她说道:「巧克力和樱桃是绝佳的搭配。」法国樱桃先在浓缩樱桃汁里浸渍, 和巧克力酥饼、薄荷香缇、岩浆巧克力蛋糕(使用70%瓜纳拉苦甜巧克力)和口味饱满的黑巧克力冰淇淋一同上桌。

80

|

TK | summer nights


TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

(Th

on

et Br ot h , s) er na Ka

en pe www.bugholzm r.27, öb el. at

”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com


F O O D

I S

A R T.

P R E S E R V E

I T.

In craftsmanship and performance, Sub-Zero is without rival. Its advanced technology keeps food fresher longer.

1-3/f, House of Madison 8 Queen’s Road East, Wanchai Hong Kong. T +852 2239 5000

subzero.com.hk


Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.