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T A S T I N G 22

F R E E

K I T C H E N S P I R I T S

CENTRAL   

Arcane Discoveries 食材大探索

HONG KONG   

Free Spirits 餐饮界的自由之魂

WANCHAI   

Democratized Dining 闹市米其林


STARTER

对澳门十六浦索菲特酒店派意舫法国餐厅主厨 Jean-François Nulli 来说,音乐是他创作过程中不可或缺的元素,「在发想 新的菜色时,我会和音乐独处。从两种能完美契合的食材开始,再逐步加入其他成分构建出我理想的成果。」他的创意开 胃菜龙虾柚子配澳洲青苹、甜菜根生牛肉及百香果雪葩,就是个成功的例证,「甜菜根和苹果就是一对灵魂伴侣,我以它 们为基础来延伸,经过每个步骤的仔细思考,才能呈现出这道料理的全貌。」

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DAVID HARTUNG

Music is an essential part of the creative process for Jean-François Nulli, chef of Privé at Sofitel Macau: “When developing a new dish, I sit in solitude with my music. I start with two ingredients that match perfectly and build from there.” His starter of lobster and yuzu accompanied by carpaccio of beetroot and sorbet of apple and passion fruit is a case in point. “Beetroot and apple are an ideal combination. I slowly amplify on that, reflecting at each step, to arrive at the final, fully realized dish.”


T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

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S P I R I T S

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Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com Room 2301, 23/F, Futura Plaza, 111-113 How Ming Street Kwun Tong, Hong Kong Tel: +852 3915 7218 Fax: +852 3916 2002

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

David Hartung

Alicia Beebe

Mamie Hsien Chen

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY

ART DIRECTOR

Chris Dwyer

Joey Cheang

Jean Alberti

Sarah Heller

MANAGING EDITOR

CHEF AT LARGE

Andrea Lo

Marilyn Burkley

J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Morgan

EDITOR

IMAGE EDITOR

Kate Nicholson

TRANSLATION SERVICES

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ASSISTANT EDITOR

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T A S T I N G 22

F R E E

K I T C H E N S P I R I T S

Within twenty-four hours, this flying fish was pulled from the sea, sold in a Japanese fish market, air-shipped to Hong Kong, and pan-fried in the kitchen of the restaurant Arcane. See page 32 for more on chef Shane Osborn’s pursuit of fresh, seasonal ingredients. 在短短二十四小时内,这条日本飞鱼经历了从茫茫大海中被 捞起、送往日本鱼市场贩卖、再一路空运到香港、最后才在 Arcane的厨房里煎制的长途跋涉。想知道Shane Osborn主厨 如何追求新鲜的当季食材吗?请翻阅至本刊第32页。

CENTRAL

Arcane Discoveries 食材大探索

HONG KONG

Free Spirits 餐饮界的自由之魂

TK22 Cover.indd 1

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WANCHAI

Democratized Dining 闹市米其林

3/19/16 6:14 PM

Photography by David Hartung

©Tasting Kitchen Limited 2016 All rights reserved


PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. This issue, Free Spirits, pays tribute to those independent and innovative restaurateurs who have entered the region’s F+B market fray, armed not with the financial backing of deep-pocketed conglomerates, but rather with a fresh approach and a nimble spirit. In our art and design sections, we share the work of two local contemporary ceramic designers and look at how the moga, or modern girls, of 1920s Japan made their first appearance in café culture. Then we visit a newly opened cocktail bar and restaurant to see how an evening’s experience can be heightened by sophisticated storytelling and the seamless integration of concept, branding, and design. In Central, we meet a chef dedicated to finding unique seasonal ingredients that engage the intellect as well as the palate. And in Wan Chai, we learn how the traditional French dining experience has been simplified and democratized through experimentation and improvisation. Finally, we discover how the only standalone bar on the Cotai Strip captures the spirit of Macau with live rock and blues and a take-all-comers attitude. Enjoy.

DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Layers of Authenticity  • 14 Unabashedly Modern  • 16 Creating Desires 20 Open Secrets  • 26 Triple Header  • 28 Dining Diversely  • 30 Viva Lavilla

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CONTENTS

32 Arcane Discoveries  • 42 Free Spirits  • 52 Democratized Dining  • 62 Delectably Regional 70 Raising the Antipasto Bar  • 74 Making the Cut  • 76 The Pleasures of Piemonte 80 Tradition Meets Technology  • 86 Anyone and Everyone  • 94 South Africa’s Finest 93  R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S •  96  D E S S E R T

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融新旧 伴佳肴

layers of authenticity Two local designers of contemporary ceramics draw inspiration from past and present. BY CATHERINE SHAW

A clear-glazed porcelain pendant lamp named Bloom evokes the delicacy of a flower.

Bowls named The Basics come in three sizes. Their varied natural colors can be mixed or matched for a customized look. 取名为The Basic的碗有三种尺寸,有不同的自然 色彩可供自由组合搭配,制成独特的样貌。

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COURTESY OF LATITUDE 22N

以Bloom为名,涂上透明釉的陶瓷吊灯突显了花朵的细致。

China’s medieval dynasty of the same name provides inspiration for the Song dinnerware collection, hand-carved in Jingdezhen. 灵感来自中国中世纪朝代“宋 朝”的“Song”系列晚餐餐具, 于景德镇手工雕刻而成。


INSPIRED LIVING

LATITUDE 22N, the trendsetting Hong Kong ceramics studio, may have been paying quirky homage to Star Wars when they created their “May the Noodles Be with You” bowl, but it also happens to be a perfect fit for Foxtail & Broomcorn, the local restaurant specializing in noodles. Designers Julie Progin and Jesse McLin came up with the message inscribed in the bottom of the bowl as a droll reward for diners after their last slurp. “Our designs are not traditional, but working here in China and Hong Kong, we’re always inspired by the rich legacy of forms, colors, and patterns,” says Progin. For local boutique-hotel group Tribute Hotels, the duo created a cup, bowl, and plate in simple, strong, functional shapes, embellished with a striking blue and white geometric pattern and hand finished with a touch of gold.  At Grassroots Pantry, the designers transformed a wall with custom-made  ceramic utensils hung alongside wooden and ceramic boards to “reflect the raw,  sustainable, honest values of the brand,” Progin explains. “Tableware handmade by local ceramists adds a layer of authenticity to brands, and consumers love to connect with their stories.” 位 于 香 港 的 Latitude 22N 是 间 引 领 时 尚 的 陶 瓷 工 作 室,你可能想都想不到,被他们取名为「愿面条与你相 伴」(May the Noodles Be with You) 的那个瓷碗,可能 脱胎自星际大战。然而他们在为以面食著名的 Foxtail &

Broomcorn 餐厅设计餐具时,同样离奇却完美的状况再度 发生。设计师 Julie Progin 和 Jesse McLin 灵机一动,在碗底 刻上了些创意,让饕客们吃完最后一口时能为之惊喜。 「我们做的并非传统设计,但在中国和香港工作,传统的各 种形式、 颜色和图案总能带来灵感。 」Julie 说。她和 Jesse 采用简单、 明确又极富功能性的造型,以显眼的蓝白色几何图形妆点,再用手 工加入一点金色,著名本地精品旅馆 Tribute 酒店使用的杯子和碗盘就 此诞生。 在豆苗居 (Grassroots Pantry),两位设计师把特制的瓷器吊挂在以木 和陶瓷制成的长板上, 让单调的墙壁改头换面, 「这也反映出餐厅的理念-天然、 「当地陶瓷师傅手作的餐具为我们的品牌添了一分实感, 环保而真诚。 」Julie 说道, 把他们买下来的人也热爱诉说它们的故事。 」

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Foxtail & Broomcorn restaurants celebrate all things noodles at their outlets in Sheung Wan and Wan Chai. Foxtail & Broomcorn 餐厅在上环和湾仔 的据点喜迎它们著名的多国菜粉面。

For Tribute Hotels, the duo created a line of breakfast ware inspired by Yau Ma Tei architectural details. 这对搭档为Tribute酒店设计了一系列的早餐 餐具,灵感来自油麻地建筑物的特色细节。

Grassroots Pantry: chopping boards are made from salvaged pallet wood; porcelain utensils are handmade by the designers without templates or molds.

COURTESY OF LATITUDE 22N, AMANDA KHO (BOTTOM)

豆苗居店内的砧板是由打捞木托盘制成;陶瓷器皿 则由设计师手工制作,没有使用任何样板或模型。


INSPIRED LIVING

“The history of ceramics in China is always a key element in our research and design,” says Hong Kong–born Julie Progin. 生于香港的Julie Progin表示:「中国瓷器的历史 总是在我们的研究和设计中扮演了关键角色。」


FOOD & ART

傲视群雄

unabashedly modern Japan’s first liberated women took their cue from Western ways.

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咖啡馆文化的改变追溯到日本的 1920 年代,忽如在不经意间出现一群新女性

(“moga”),这个词出自 1924 年出版的 畅销小说《痴人的爱》 。当时银幕上的

flapper 年青偶像蓄着短发,打扮像男 生,一派无拘无束。 新女性开始改穿 巴黎时兴的及膝连身裙,足蹬新潮大胆 的黑色系带舞鞋,剪一头俏皮的短发, 甚至在公开场合涂抹口红。 现代女性不肯穿传统和服,仅仅 是抗拒守旧的日本社会的第一步。虽说 新女性开始在快速现代化、崇拜西方科 技的日本独当一面,有时被媒体形容成 工业巨子的骄纵女儿,但大多数新女性 其实来自新兴的工人和中产阶级。 有史以来头一遭,日本女性不分 阶级高低,走出家庭,进入了职场。无 论单身或已婚,女性凭一己之力赚钱, 爱怎么花就怎么花。便宜燃料让她们可 尽情到处游走,现代年轻女性开心拥 抱各种自由 — 出门看电影、大肆购物、 前往热门的海滨度假村消磨时光,或于 深夜出席有男有女的聚会,此时咖啡馆 或餐厅已如雨后春笋般出现于日本各大 都市。 那时候许多人认为,新女性不啻 是当代女英雄,象征了民主、普世教育、 两性平等和都市化。然而新女性的生活 却是苦乐参半 — 她们热切拥抱令人存 疑的外国文化,从衣着到独树一格的生 活方式,无一不在挑衅社会观感,饱受 素来保守的日本社会批判。 然而有一幅马丁尼的广告,上面 的新女性一脸狂傲不羁,对批评置若罔 闻,挑衅似地举高鸡尾酒杯,自信地凝 望每一个人,仿佛邀请大家和她一同迎 接既革新又洋溢自由精神的新世代。

JAPAN: ADVERTISING POSTER FOR MARTINI FEATURING A ‘MOGA’ OR ‘MODERN GIRL’, 1920S / PICTURES FROM HISTORY / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

CAFÉ CULTURE IN 1920S JAPAN saw the sudden and surprising appearance of the “modern girl,” or moga , a term coined in 1924 by the author of the popular Japanese novel Naomi . Inspired by the flapper and garçonne idols of the silver screen, the modern girl flaunted the latest in knee-length Paris frocks, adorned her feet in the daring new strapped black pumps, bobbed her hair shockingly short, and even wore lipstick in public. The modern girls’ rejection of the traditional kimono was just the beginning of their wider rebellion against conservative Japanese society. While sometimes derided in the press as the spoiled daughters of rich industrialists who came to prominence during Japan’s rapid modernization and adoption of Western technology, in fact, most modern girls were to be found among the emerging working and middle classes. For the first time in Japan’s history, women of all classes were moving out of homes and into the workforce. Not only did modern girls, both single and married, make their own money, they also spent it however and on whatever they wanted. The availability of cheap fuel allowed women greater mobility than ever before, and the modern girl heartily embraced the freedom it granted to indulge in trips to the movies, extravagant shopping expeditions, jaunts to trendy beachside resorts, and late evenings out on the town with friends – male and female – at the many cafés and restaurants that were springing up in Japanese urban centers. For many at the time, the modern girl served as contemporary heroine, the poster child for everything from democracy to universal education, sexual equality to urbanization. But a modern girl’s life could often be bittersweet; her embrace of suspect foreign culture and the challenge she presented to society in her choice of attire and freethinking lifestyle brought harsh censure from predominantly conservative Japanese society. The modern girl depicted here in an ad for Martini, however, seems to float with timeless insouciance above all criticism. Defiantly holding aloft her cocktail, she confidently meets the gaze of all onlookers, coyly inviting them to join her in one of Japan’s most progressive and free-spirited eras.


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DESIGN

创造渴望

creating desires LAUNCHING A NEW RESTAURANT is always a daunting endeavor, and doubly so when aiming to make a mark in the highly competitive Hong Kong F&B scene. The key for one restaurateur who was eager to debut a standout entry on Wyndham Street was to engage the services of design agency Substance, not only to conceive a beguiling set of eclectic interiors inspired by French Colonial and Caribbean influences, but to begin with the creation of an entirely new brand identity. “Developing a coherent brand concept before you start to think about design details like the logo, packaging, or imagery is critical,” explains Max Dautresme, Substance founding partner and director. “It creates a framework against which you can measure whether what you do is authentic or merely design for design’s sake. It’s all too easy to be distracted by decoration, but those elements need a carefully considered context if they are to deliver more than just aesthetics.” The Hong Kong-based designer is already well-known for his extraordinary work at two venues at The Pulse: The Ocean, a beachinspired restaurant, and Cabana, a rooftop lounge and bar. They introduced a new benchmark for contemporary design on the Repulse Bay beachfront. And The Krug Room at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong broke new design ground with its intimate twelve-seat interior evoking a deluxe railway carriage. “Building a brand is about creating desires,” says Dautresme. “We usually start by developing insightful stories around a real sense of the personalities and the atmosphere and then think about how every detail, from typography and graphic details to the lighting, pays homage to them.”

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开新餐厅箇中辛苦不言可喻,在竞争激烈的 香港餐饮界想冒出头,更是难上加难。对 于想在中环云咸街初试啼声的餐厅业者来 说, 选择与品牌及室内设计公司「Substance」 合作,算是踏出了正确的第一步,除了打 造融合法式殖民色彩及加勒比海风的独特 室内装潢外,也成功树立了全新品牌识别。 「Substance」 共 同 创 始 人 及 总 监 Max Dautresme 强调 : 「如果没有一致的品牌概 念,那么讨论商标、包装或视觉意象等其 他设计细节都是空谈。有了品牌概念,才 有完整的架构,来用以衡量原创性、抑或 只是纯为设计而设计交差的作品而已。装 饰细节太多会容易使人分神,需要仔细运 用元素,否则只会沦为纯粹展示美感的工 具而已。」「Substance」立足香港,为全港 首间滩畔购物商场「The Pulse」内的两间 餐厅操刀而声名大噪,他们分别是以海滩 为主题的餐厅 「The Ocean」 及名为 「Cabana」 的屋顶露台式酒廊和酒吧。香港文华东方 酒店「The Krug Room」发想自高级列车车 厢、仅有 12 个座位的私人聚会厅创新设计 也是出自他的手笔。 Max 大方分享创意秘诀 : 「建立品牌就 是要挑起人的渴望,通常从真实的人物及 氛围撷取灵感,诉说一个动人的故事,借 以衍生一系列设计细节,排版印刷、视觉 到灯光都要与前述主题相辅相成。」 谈到「Paradis」,Max 话说从头,一开 始想讲的就是黑魔法的故事以及非洲工艺 技术对法国殖民设计风格的影响。「有了 故事雏形之后,便发觉原本的格局太过开 放,所以我特地在此放了一些木质百叶栏 及多叶植物,隔出数个小而舒适的用餐区, 除了大幅提升空间的形制及功能性之外, 也让客人享受更无距离、同时带有一丝神 秘感的用餐体验。看不到的东西总能挑起 大家的好奇心-真的非常引人入胜。」 若要室内装潢发挥最大效益,灯光及

PHOTOGRAPHER: DENNIS LO. ART DIRECTION: SUBSTANCE

Paradis, the new HK restaurant and cocktail bar, makes its journey from concept to realization with the help of a leading-edge design firm.


Bar with rattan canopy and custom-made pendant light 藤制顶篷吧台及客制垂吊灯饰

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Entrance view of reception desk and bar 入口处的接待桌及吧台光景

“ We usually start by developing insightful stories around a real sense of the personalities and then think about how every detail pays homage to them.” 通常从真实的人物及氛围撷取灵感,诉说一个 动人的故事,借以衍生一系列设计细节,排版

印刷、视觉到灯光都要与前述主题相辅相成。“

家具可说是关键之一。 Max 正是箇中能手, 不仅擅长于发想抽象概念,成品设计也是 他的一大强行。他的才华在「Paradis」展 露无遗,精选的系列餐椅带着随性闲适的 殖民风,同时散发一丝旧时代的奢华。他 也量身打造灯饰与之配合,独特铜制旋转 灯饰明暗分明,突显细致做工之外,也让 人联想到月亮盈缺之美。 Max 对色彩极其敏锐,绿色及大地色 系随性挥洒,墙上手绘的热带地区风格壁 画,为店里注入些许异国丛林色彩,与法 国后印象派画家亨利卢梭 Henri Rousseau

的画风有几分神似。要打造餐厅品牌识别 度,设计者也应对店内餐饮风格有透彻了 解。Max 解释 : 「透过设计演绎主厨对餐点 的愿景,可提升室内风格的一致性,套在 餐厅空间更加顺理成章。」 问到创造品牌最大的挑战时,Max 不 假思索答道 : 「取名字吧,要能取得大家共 识真的很难,毕竟挑名字真的很主观。不 过一旦店名与创意发想概念一致,整体氛 围很快就能拍版定案了。」餐厅概念触动 人心、店内环境丰富华丽,除了「Paradis」 还有什么更好的名称呢?

PHOTOGRAPHER: DENNIS LO. ART DIRECTION: SUBSTANCE (2)

Dautresme explains that at Paradis the starting point was telling a story about black magic and the influence of African craftsmanship on French Colonial design. “With the storyline established, we could see that the existing layout was too open,” he explains. “To enhance the form and function within the space, we introduced several smaller, cozy dining areas separated by wood louver screens and leafy plants. It brings a much more intimate experience and a sense of mystery. People want to see what lies behind – it’s very seductive.” One of the major issues in creating an effective interior is achieving a perfect harmony between lighting and furniture. Dautresme, fortunately, is as comfortable working with the design of material objects as he is with abstract concepts. At Paradis this talent is manifest in his collection of dining chairs that combine comfortable colonial informality with a touch of old-world opulence. To these he added his customdesigned lighting fixtures, which reveal an affinity for craft details in the unique bronze rotary shades that allude to the phases of the moon. Dautresme applied his deft color sensibility in a moody palette of greens and earthy browns and in hand-painted tropical murals that provide an exotic jolt of jungle color reminiscent of Henri Rousseau. Building an authentic brand identity for a restaurant also calls, according to Dautresme, for a deep understanding of its culinary approach. “Translating the chef ’s vision for the cuisine into our design helps us to be consistent and logical in development.” When asked about the greatest challenge in creating a brand, Dautresme is quick to respond: “Naming is often one of the hardest parts to settle on unanimously, since names are very subjective. But when the name follows our creative concept, it helps to confirm the overall ambience.” With a concept so alluring and an ambience so lush, it’s apparent that this particular project’s name could only be Paradis.


Hand-painted mural art and custom-made furniture detail 手绘壁画及客制家饰细节


PDT’s iconic phone booth entrance PDT标志性电话亭


TTAASSTTI INNGG N E W S

公开的秘密

open secrets A cloak-and-dagger entrance to a clandestine drinking establishment is the formula for instant success in Hong Kong. 穿过 MO Bar 衣香鬓影、打扮入时的男男女 WENDING ONE’S WAY THROUGH the crowd 女来到后方转角处,沿着楼梯往上,站在一 of swank see-and-be-seens at MO Bar, 个看似普通的旧时电话亭前。至此,你距离 ascending the staircase in the rear corner, 神秘门廊的开启就剩这最后的一步之遥,继 and entering an ordinary old-time phone 续深入,你将进入到气氛绝佳的世外之地- booth, it’s just one final step through a conPDT HK, 纽 约 传 奇 地 下 酒 吧「PDT(Please cealed door into the glamorous hideaway Don’t Tell)」的一个月限定香港快闪店。 that is PDT HK, a one-month pop-up of New 快闪店与纽约酒吧如出一辙,都有将两 York City’s legendary modern speakeasy, PDT 处迥然不同的空间彼此连结的神秘通道。纽 (Please Don’t Tell). ,如滑板潮流杂 约店需从热狗店「Crif Dogs」 In both locales the furtive means of 志「Thrasher Magazine」般的喧闹街景转进 access serves as a passageway between PDT 打造的世外桃源,令初来乍到的客人无 two contrasting environments. Guests in 不惊诧连连 ;香港店所在置地文华东方酒店 New York make a startling crossover from 的冷调高级风格当然与热狗小摊 the raucous, Thrasher Magazine BY 相距十万八千里,PDT HK 最重要 skate scene of Crif Dogs to MAMIE CHEN PDT ’s oasis of refinement. And 的成功之处在于将看似相互冲突的 • MO Bar 典雅工业风及 PDT 私密聚 while the cool prestige of The PHOTOGRAPHY BY 会的亲昵感融合的恰到好处。 Landmark Mandarin Oriental is a RED DOG STUDIO 随 着 MO Bar 的 DJ 混 音 逐 渐 far cry from a hot dog joint, the

Hong Kong booth succeeds in marking the abrupt transition from the ultramodern loftiness of MO Bar to the intimate clubbiness of PDT. MO Bar’s DJ mixset fades in the distance, replaced by music personally curated by PDT founder Jim Meehan. It’s an eclectic playlist – from classic jazz to classic rock and touching on indie bands like Built to Spill and hip hop groups like A Tribe Called Quest – that beckons the listener to savor the music along with the cocktails. Besides the signature faux phone booth, the Hong Kong pop-up is a remarkably faithful reproduction of the East Village cocktail bar. No detail has been overlooked, from the real brick walls adorned with

远 去, 传 入 耳 中 的 是 PDT 创 办 人

Jim Meehan 亲自挑选的音乐,除了经典爵士 及 摇 滚 乐, 也 有 独 立 乐 团 Built to Spill 及 A Tribe Called Quest 等嘻哈团的音乐,丰富多 元,让客人在品尝鸡尾酒同时也能享有听觉 飨宴。 快闪店可说完全复制纽约东村的酒吧风 格。从砖瓦墙上的标本动物头像到真皮打版 制成的沙发座等,可说一丝不苟,不放过每 个细节。酒吧后设有整面镜子,加上从底部 打光的酒架,和纽约店几乎没有两样,吧台 还放上假管线,毫无二致。 确 实, 快 闪 店 看 不 到 连 通 PDT 及「Crif

Dogs」的食物通道,但光冲着香港置地文华 东方酒店厨艺总监 Richard Ekkebus 准备重现 PDT 大胆结合明星主厨及「Crif Dogs」的各

式美味这点来说,也大可释怀了。Thumann’s

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General Manager Jeff Bell mans the bar

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TASTING NEWS

牌热狗及 Ore-Ida 薯球空运来港,保证原汁 原 味, 热 狗 配 料 则 会 由 厨 魔 梁 经 伦、 串 烧 店 Yardbird 大厨 Matt Abergel 及口利福大厨

Jowett Yu 等名厨负责,带来专属香港的风味。 但真正让人雀跃不已的,当属 PDT 团队 也将随店驻港一个月,包括 Jim、总经理 Jeff

团队也将发挥 PDT 的实验精神,运用地 方食材研发带有在地风味的调酒。 Jeff 强调: 「我们很多工作其实并不为人所知-包括试 味道、寻找特殊材料,让我们的酒独一无二。 各种想得到的东西几乎都能拿来测试、取名、 撰写背后的故事并放到酒单上。 」

美 味,Togarashi & Tonic 鸡 尾 酒 用 的 就 是 我们自己带的唐辛子 ( 日式辣粉 ),不过到

Yardbird 发觉那边的更棒!所以在这个杯缘 用的是 Yardbird 的七味辣粉。

The Lucky Plum 是内格罗尼威士忌,即 鸡尾酒「花花公子」的即兴版。为捎带有香

Bell 及经验老道的调酒师 Nick Brown 等最强

从 Richard 那收集到建议后,Jim 及 Jeff

港本土味道,Jeff 特意用混合金橘代替经典

阵容,目的就是要将 PDT 名闻遐迩的各式调

转战纽约的中国城,施展看家本领 :研发新

金橘,并加入小量梅子酱以带出鲜味。他表

酒,从摇杯、搅拌、压榨到滤冰等忠实呈现。

酒。金桔、梅子酱、红枣、姜及各式茶类等

示: 「我对这款改良版的花花公子情有独钟。

香港店喝得到多支 PDT 招牌调酒- Jeff 甚至

都包括在内。即便鸡尾酒单已经拍版定案,

并非一定要突出「哇!这款饮品是满满的金

将一公升 Benton’s 培根油带来香港,和波本

两人仍是马不停蹄,抵港后仍在脑中研发点

橘味!」的追求,而是这杯鸡尾酒因为金橘

威士忌调制,让客人喝得到味道纯正、PDT 店

子。

而更显着色。 」时机成熟的话,Jim 在此研发

内热销榜第一名的 Benton’s Old Fashioned。

Jim 形容 :每回出门就是不断发掘惊人

的新调酒也将在纽约正式推出。 free spirits

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TASTING NEWS

“ A lot of our job is behind the scenes, doing tastings and finding unique ingredients that make our drinks nearly impossible to get at other places.”

Founder Jim Meehan

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mounted taxidermy to the leather-paneled banquette seating. The mirror-backed bar with bottom-lit shelving is nearly identical to the original, and the bar counter is complete with duplicate plumbing. True, the food pass between PDT and Crif Dogs is missing, but that can be forgiven in light of the lengths to which Richard Ekkebus, Culinary Director of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, has gone to replicate PDT ’s groundbreaking collaborations between celebrity chefs and Crif Dogs. The original Thumann’s brand hot dogs and Ore-Ida Tater Tots® were faithfully sourced, and Hong Kong chefs Alvin Leung of Bo Innovation, Matt Abergel of Yardbird, and Jowett Yu of Ho Lee Fook  were enlisted to design gourmet hot dog toppings with a Hong Kong flair. The most impressive and authentic element of the event, however, is the one-month residence behind the bar of the actual PDT team, including Meehan, General Manager Jeff Bell,  and longtime


FEATURE

veteran bartender Nick Brown, all specially imported to shake, stir, muddle and finestrain the kinds of cocktails that have made PDT famous. Some drinks on offer are the bar’s classics – Bell even packed one liter of Benton’s bacon fat in his luggage in order to infuse the bourbon with the genuine flavor of their bestselling Benton’s Old Fashioned. But they also wanted to offer their interpretations of local ingredients and flavors in cocktails developed in true PDT exploratory style. “A lot of our job is behind the scenes, doing tastings and finding unique ingredients that make our drinks nearly impossible to get at other places,” says Bell. “We recipe-test everything, name them, then write their stories and print them on the menu.” Armed with a list of suggestions provided by Ekkebus, Meehan and Bell descended upon New York City’s Chinatown to do what they do best: research and develop new drinks, this time with ingredients like kumquats, plum sauce, red dates, ginger, and various teas. And even with a finalized cocktail menu in hand, they continued their R&D well past their arrival in Hong Kong. “Every time we go out here, we keep discovering amazing flavors,” says Meehan. “We brought our own togarashi to use in our Togarashi & Tonic. Then we went to Yardbird and realized theirs was so much better! So now it’s Yardbird’s shichimi on the rim.” The Lucky Plum, a riff on the boulevardier, the well-known whisky Negroni, is given a touch of Hong Kong by replacing the classic citrus twist with some muddled kumquat and by adding a small amount of salted plum sauce to introduce a hint of umami. “It’s still a boulevardier but with a subtle difference which I really like,” says Bell. “It doesn’t always have to be ‘wow, this drink is all kumquat!’ Instead the kumquat makes a perfect accent for the cocktail.” Given the right opportunity, Meehan believes that any of the new cocktails could easily be brought back to add the perfect accent to their New York menu.


TASTING NEWS

三师云集

triple header Three of Japan’s leading chefs unite in a unique collaboration at Mizumi. A F T E R I T S R E C E N T dazzling makeover, Wynn Macau’s Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant Mizumi now features an entirely new interior as well as an unprecedented dining experience created in collaboration with a trio of Michelin-star chefs from Japan, each a master in his field. Working alongside the Mizumi team, chefs Tsutomu Shimamiya, Junichi Yoshida, and Kazuhito Motoyoshi have created the most authentic Japanese menu outside their homeland. It offers guests a choice of specially designed signature dishes made with top seasonal ingredients from Japan and around the world. Diners can sit at the counters and watch the chefs at work for an interactive experience, or they can enjoy all three specialties in the main dining room. Sushi chef Tsutomu Shimamiya, from Sushi Zen in Hokkaido, deftly crafts each piece in three swift moves. With two Michelin stars, he is Japan’s most revered practitioner of the traditional edomae style. “The best thing about sushi,” he says, “is that diners are in control, whether they order one, three, or fifteen pieces.” Teppanyaki chef Junichi Yoshida, whose oneMichelin-star restaurant Ishigaki Yoshida is named for Ishigaki Island, presides over the grill, keeping a close eye on his specialty kuroge washu breed

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DAVID HARTUNG (4)

of wagyu beef. The meat is cooked at a low temperature for an hour to ensure a perfect finish and is accompanied by slow-cooked tomato. Tempura chef Kazuhito Motoyoshi, who holds one Michelin star, serves his award-winning creations straight from the pot. “It’s important to eat tempura within twenty to thirty seconds,” he says, “so a seat at the counter is best.” His menu, which often draws inspiration from the changing seasons, features such delicacies as scallop, red Japanese carrot, and sea urchin. The chefs’ tenure at Mizumi as master consultants working in close coordination with the restaurant’s staff means diners will continue enjoying their authentic specialties well into the future.


 Japanese Yaeyama Wagyu Beef Teppanyaki 日本八重山和牛铁板烧

 Sea Urchin Tempura 紫苏海胆天妇罗

 Sushi Set 寿司套餐

 Yuzu Sake Jelly, Japanese Mandarin Orange and Crispy Yuzu Sorbet 柚子清酒啫喱配 日本蜜橘及柚子雪葩

 永利澳门的米其林星级日式餐厅「泓」日本 料理近期重新装潢,内部焕然一新,再加上三位来 自日本各有所长的米其林星级大厨加持,共同演绎 前所未有的用餐体验。 三位大厨 — 嶋宫勤、吉田纯一、元吉和仁, 与「泓」日本料理团队并肩工作,在日本海外呈献 最正宗的日式盛宴,特制的招牌料理是以日本与世 界各地最上乘的时令食材烹调而成,任君挑选。宾 客可选择坐在吧台边观看大厨工作,享受互动的用 餐体验,另可在大厅一并品味这三位大厨的拿手菜 式。 寿司大师嶋宫勤是北海道「寿司善」的创办人, 他采用「三手握」手法握制的寿司,由于减低手心 温度对饭团温度的影响,口感更完美。他曾荣获米 其林二星殊荣,是日本地位最崇高的传统江户前寿 司大师之一。他说 : 「寿司最棒的地方就是食客可 」 以控制量,一个、三个或十五个都没问题。 铁板烧大师吉田纯一开设根据石垣岛命名的 米其林一星餐厅「石垣吉田」 ,专营铁板烧,他以 严选黑毛小母和牛品种闻名。他以低温烹煮和牛, 确保成品完美无暇,再佐以慢炖蕃茄。 获选米其林一星殊荣的天妇罗大师元吉和仁 则直接从油锅里炸出享誉无数的创意料理。他说 : 「天妇罗需于起锅后二、三十秒之内品尝,这点很 重要,所以坐在吧台边最好。 」他的菜单经常汲取 季节更迭的灵感,以帆立贝、日本红萝卜、海胆等

时令珍馐为主打食材。 三位大厨为「泓」日本料理担任顾问角色, 与餐厅团队合作密切。饕客定能一饱口福,尽享道 地日本美馔。 free spirits

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PRESENTED BY SOFITEL MACAU

Privé 派意舫

Chef Jean-François Nulli

Oyster, Cucumber, Apple, Yuzu Sorbet 生蚝配青瓜,苹果及柚子雪葩

Pigeon Wellington, Puff Pastry, Duck Liver, Dried Apricot, Spinach, Walnut, Green Apple

多元美味 各有千秋

dining diversely At Sofitel Macau, two top chefs with two distinct approaches to two very different cuisines share the same commitment to excellence.

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威灵顿焗面皮乳鸽卷配鹅肝,杏脯,菠菜,核桃,青苹

PRIVÉ, WITH JUST TWENTY-FOUR SEATS,

is Macau’s most intimate restaurant experience. Chef Jean-François Nulli presents his unique approach to French cuisine in a fine dining setting that combines the best features of a chef ’s table and a private kitchen. And while Privé’s size may be small, the chef ’s virtuoso command of style is immense. “Doing something so intimate like this allows me to spend personal time with the guests,” he says. “It’s almost like cooking at home for friends.” Nulli’s dishes reflect the tenets of his philosophy: respect for the ingredients, originality, and a commitment to pleasing guests’ tastes as well as his own. He uses fresh, local equivalents of French ingredients

and employs primarily French methods. “My Pigeon Wellington is an homage to one of my mentors,” says Nulli, “and now diners here can experience it too. It’s important for knowledge to be passed on.” Le Chinois takes diners on an entirely different culinary adventure with its new Le Chinois 50 Unlimited Enjoyment dinner menu. “There are fifty dishes on it,” says Chef Mok Chee Wah, “from appetizers and soups to main courses, dim sum, and desserts. Order anything, and we’ll cook it for you à la minute.” While dim sum is traditionally served early in the day, Mok has noticed a changing attitude throughout Asia. “In a lot of places it’s common to have dim sum for dinner. It’s


Le Chinois 乐轩华

DAVID HARTUNG ( 7)

Chef Mok Chee Wah

↑↑

Deep-Fried Prawn with Szechuan Peppercorn Salt 椒盐脆皮虾

Signature Dim Sum 精选特式点心

Hot and Sour Boston Lobster Soup 波士顿酸辣龙虾汤

a very social meal and not too heavy, so I wanted to bring this enjoyable option to Macau. “The key to making great dim sum is experience,” says the chef. “It’s important to have the skills – there are no shortcuts. All of ours are handmade with fresh ingredients.” He loves to work with local seasonal produce, especially chili. “I probably put it in 80 percent of my food,” he laughs. With so many Cantonese restaurants in Macau, Mok believes it is his focus on classic style that sets Le Chinois apart: “Many chefs these days are going modern or fusion, and while there’s certainly a market for it, I’m intentionally exploring our roots, our history, our tradition.”

仅设 24 席的「派意舫」以雅致环境打 造优质用餐体验,全澳门无出其右。主 厨 Jean-François Nulli 的法式美食将主厨 餐桌及私房菜料理完美融合。餐厅虽小, 主厨炉火纯青的厨艺及鲜明的烹饪风格 却让人叹为观止。他表示 : 「通过交流, 我和客人几乎零距离,就像在家煮菜给 朋友吃一样自在。」 从尊重食材及原创性、取悦客人和 自己味蕾的用心等方面,都展现出 Nulli 的料理哲学。他选用新鲜在地农产作为 食材,运用技巧做出佳肴。其中拿手好 菜威灵顿 焗 面皮乳鸽卷是为感谢恩师的 致敬之作,他强调 : 「能把美食的制作技 艺和相关知识传承下去至关重要。」 「乐轩华」最近则推出两周年庆典特 别任食晚市菜单,要带给客人截然不同

的美食飨宴。主厨莫志华师傅自豪表示: 「从 开胃菜、主菜、点心到甜点,共有 50 道, 现点现做,美味热腾腾上桌。」 点心一般都是白天享用,但传统近来 稍有转变,莫师傅分析 : 「其实点心当晚餐 吃十分普遍,人们边吃边聊天,不会给身 体带来负担,也吃得尽兴,这种改变值得 引进澳门。」 他接着分享点心的美味秘诀 : 「驾轻就 熟,别无二法。在乐轩华,每款点心都是 以新鲜食材手工制成。」 澳门粤菜餐厅林立,但莫师傅多年来 坚持道地风格不变,让「乐轩华」能在激 烈竞争中脱颖而出,他说 : 「很多师傅走现 代或融合风,这确实有一定的市场,但我 还是想挖掘粤菜的根,以丰富的历史及传 统作为养分。」 free spirits

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PRESENTED BY LAVILLA

吃尽一流美味

viva lavilla A Hong Kong classic continues its culinary primacy along the East Tsim Sha Tsui waterfront.

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Assorted Seafood Platter 法式海鲜拼盘

THE FOOD AND BEVERAGE BUSINESS in Hong Kong may be a tough one to crack and an even tougher one to stay on top of, but Farroug Abdelah, who has managed LaVilla for a decade, attributes the French fusion restaurant’s perennial appeal to its strong emphasis on top-tier offerings. “Our philosophy has always been to deliver the highest quality food and service, along with a vibrant atmosphere,” says Abdelah. “We try to provide the best we can attain, and that means the customer is never disappointed.” LaVilla works closely with premium suppliers to source its superior ingredients from around the world. The seafood platter, one of the restaurant’s most requested signature dishes, is heaped with oysters from France, as well as whole crab, king prawns,

sea whelk, and ever-popular abalone. Slowcooked US prime beef is another menu highlight, alongside the beautifully marbled wagyu from Australia and Japan. Abdelah praises Chef Sing Tse for consistently keeping standards at a peak, while working in collaboration with LaVilla’s consulting chefs to strive for continual improvement. When it comes to décor, LaVilla ticks all the boxes for that elusive ambience that diners immediately sense is right. The interior has a classic modern look, but with mellow, atmospheric lighting that creates a warm and welcoming envelope. “We also have a wraparound outdoor terrace that captures the upbeat vibe of the area,” says Abdelah. It gives out on glamorous views of the harbor extending to the east of Hong

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Slow Cooked US Beef 慢烧美国肉眼


Australian Rack of Lamb 澳洲羊鞍

Kong Island and beyond. Come nighttime, LaVilla is transformed into a sleek and sophisticated bar, complete with live band. Abdelah credits the team at LaVilla with playing such a vital part in the restaurant’s success. Besides exceptionally professional service from the waitstaff, the operation’s efficiency comes down to the strong working relationship among all the team members. “At LaVilla, we’re really like a family,” he says. “There’s such good communication between the floor and the kitchen. We work hand in hand and very hard, and that’s what gives our customers the kind of flawless dining experience that looks so effortless.”

香港餐饮业进入门槛之高众所皆知,出类 拔萃更是难上加难,然而主打法式融合料 理的「LaVilla」却是成功典范。掌管餐厅 十 年 的 Farroug Abdelah 将「LaVilla」 的 不 败法宝归功于顶级佳肴。他强调 : 「我们重 视食物及服务品质,营造引人入胜的氛围 一直是餐厅的首要任务 ;我们竭尽所能提 供最好的东西,让客人乘兴而来,满意而 归。」 「LaVilla」和顶尖供应商密切合作,搜 罗世界各地的一流食材。招牌菜之一的海 鲜盘上罗列各式鲜美食材,包括法国直送 生蚝、原只螃蟹、大明虾、海螺以及新鲜 鲍鱼。炖煮美国 prime 顶级牛肉则是菜单 另一亮点,搭配拥有完美大理石油花的澳 洲及日本和牛,教人食指大动。主厨 Sing Tse 严格把关厨房出品,菜色长年维持高 水平,同时不忘与「LaVilla」顾问厨师团

队钻研新菜,精益求精的态度深获 Abdelah 肯定。 「LaVilla」餐厅的精致装潢,也和客人 期待的舒适感觉不谋而合。内部设计走经 典当代风格,搭配色调和缓、极具气氛的 灯光,让人宾至如归。 Abdelah 介绍 : 「在 餐厅的户外露台区可一览港口延伸至香港 岛东岸或更远的迷人景色,感受熙来攘往 的城市脉动。夜间 LaVilla 幻变成品味卓绝 的酒吧,加上乐团现场演奏,别有一番风 情。」 「LaVilla」能有此番成就,Abdelah 认为 幕后团队功不可没,除了专业侍者团队提供 的优质服务,成员彼此的合作无间也是餐厅 高效率、营运顺遂的关键所在。他自豪表示: 「我们就像一家人,前台及厨房巧妙沟通毫 无窒碍,务求给客人最好的餐饮体验,一切 都是如此浑然天成、无可挑剔。 」 free spirits

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Shane Osborn


INGREDIENTS

食材大探索

Arcane Discoveries An award-winning chef revels in the hunt for the exotic and the unexpected. BY MAMIE CHEN

PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

For Shane Osborn, the chef at Arcane, Christmas comes six days a week between seven and seven-thirty in the evening. That’s when the daily shipment of seafood and produce from Japan makes its painstaking way through traffic to arrive at the polished modern European restaurant in Central. More often than one might imagine, Osborn delves into the box, a trove of untold culinary delights, in hopeful anticipation and extracts a fruit or vegetable he’s never seen before.

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“I love discovering ingredients,” he says. “For me, the joy in cooking is in always doing something different, following the seasons, bringing in new things. I actually pester my Japanese supplier with questions: ‘What’s coming out? Where’s the price list? Can you send me photos?’ Sometimes I just tell them to send me one of everything.” Osborn’s eagerness and curiosity have paid off with new finds that have become favorites on Arcane’s à la carte menu and daily specials list: salt tomaPan-fried Japanese flying fish with roasted toes that are grown on a reclaimed salt marsh and retain a taste of the sea; romanesco and Fukuoka leeks, sautéed tsubonima, wasabina, a type of mustard leaf with a wasabi-like aftertaste that contribCloudy Bay clams, and buckler sorrel utes a nice finishing kick to beetroot salad; and any number of wild mountain 炙烧飞鱼搭配烤宝塔花菜及福冈韭葱、香煎 tsubonima、Cloudy Bay蚬及酸模草 vegetables, including the faintly bitter, endive-like urui and the yamaimo, a mountain potato which exhibits both sticky and crunchy textures in concert. Osborn is also a sucker for a good story. Just a month or two before Arcane opened, his Japanese supplier took him on his first trip to Fukuoka, where he visited the Mataichi Salt Works, Kobo Tottan, a salt farm “I once saw a school of flying fish jumping out of the water while I was in owned by two brothers who use traditional Barbados. It was incredible to watch. And when I found out they eat flying methods to boil and dry the mineral-rich sea fish in Japan, I knew I had to try it,” says Osborn. “It’s always a joy to get water pumped in from the spot where the the delivery in the evenings because the guests sitting at our counter love inner bay of the Genkai Sea meets the open watching us unpack it.” ocean. Osborn pairs the pan-seared flying fish with another recent discovery, “By now I’ve bored all my staff and the tsubonima, a foraged wild mountain cabbage that is mildly bitter and most of my customers to death with the nicely textured. salt,” Osborn admits. “It’s a great story and I just love the place, and having an open 「我曾在巴贝多看过整群飞鱼跃出海面,真的很不可思议。 Shane 表示 : kitchen gives me the opportunity to share 一听说日本人有吃飞鱼的习惯,我就心想一定要试试看。新鲜食材傍晚即时 these things. People see us unpacking the 到货的感觉很棒,料理台前的客人十分享受看我们现场开箱取货。 」 flying fish, they ask about where we get our 主厨匠心独具,将铁板炙烧飞鱼搭配近来发现的新食材- tsubonima, tomatoes. They want to know the stories 这是一种山上摘采的甘蓝菜类,口感微苦、扎实。 behind our food.”

F lying Fish 飞鱼

His kampachi comes from an expert fish farmer who has developed the uncanny technique of inserting a spike somewhere in the fish – the exact location is a carefully guarded secret – and then putting them to sleep for twelve hours. They literally flip upside down and sleep in the tank, during which time any lactic acid in their muscles dissipates. The fish farmer then employs the legendary Japanese method called ikejime to paralyze, kill, and bleed the fish. The result is firmer, sweeter flesh.


INGREDIENTS

“ People see us unpacking the flying fish, they ask about where we get our tomatoes. They want to know the stories behind our food. The chef maintains a close and loyal relationship with a small number of suppliers. He sources meats and dairy from Europe, wagyu beef from Australia, and some microherbs and microcresses from South Africa. But mainly he relies on the daily shipment of produce and seafood from Japan. Since Fukuoka is only a threehour flight from Hong Kong, Osborn is able to place a daily order at midnight and know that his buyers will be at the markets a few hours later and that his precious cargo will be on the plane and in his kitchen in time for dinner service. The previous day’s shipment contained a hyuganatsu orange, which Osborn has peeled and tasted for the first time. It is juicy and sweetly tart, like a grapefruit. Could he use the citrus juice to cure fish in a cevichestyle dish? The rest of his team will have a taste as well and share their thoughts. When a new product arrives, they first taste it raw, then blanched, and finally they use a variety of cooking techniques to see what flavors and textures emerge. “Sometimes I won’t know how I’m going to prepare an ingredient until it arrives in the kitchen and I taste it,” says Osborn. “I’ll have a look at what we have in the fridge, have a think, and make something on the fly. I really enjoy the spontaneity. That’s the beauty of Arcane. It’s good for our staff and it’s good for our customers, because we’re always trying something new and we’re always evolving.” Menus are printed in-house daily to accommodate a maximum of flexibility in seasonality and creativity. Though some of the Japanese names may sound exotic to diners, Osborn believes that his menus are actually quite orthodox. “We’re not trying to bamboozle people with jargon they can’t understand,” he says. “We’re not about the hype, the bubbles and foam, or the technology. We serve accessible, good food that is cooked simply. The quality of the produce, the seasonality of the ingredients, the clarity of the flavors are the things that shine through at Arcane.”

飞鱼卸货可以看得一清二楚、他们也对番茄从 何而来很感兴趣,想了解食材背后的故事。“

对中环雅致摩登的欧式餐厅「Arcane」主厨 Shane Osborn 而言,一周当中有 六天的晚上七点到七点半期间都像过圣诞节一般兴奋,因为日本直送的海鲜及 农产将于这段时间穿过车潮送到餐厅里。他在满心期待下忙不迭手便伸进箱里, 抓出他从未见过的水果及蔬菜,如同拆开载满神秘美味的宝盒。 他热情说道 : 「我喜欢挖掘新的食材,求新求变、顺应季节、带给客人新的 菜色,这正是我一直热爱烹饪、并乐此不疲的原因。我常抓着日本供应商问个 『有什么新东西?』 、 『价目表呢?』 、 『有照片分享给我吗?』 ,或干脆叫 不停 : 他们每样东西都送一点样品我看看。 」

Shane 旺盛的求知欲及花在研究上的时间一点都没有白费,反成了「Arcane」 单点菜单上的人气料理,高居每日精选排行榜之上 :在盐沼种出的咸番茄,留 有海洋的鲜味 ;带着类芥末后味的芥菜 (wasabina),与甜菜根沙拉混着吃有让 人难忘的余韵 ;更有种类繁多的各式野菜,像与菊苣相似、口感略苦的 urui,黏 稠及爽脆兼具的山芋等。 主厨耳根子也软,只要故事精彩,通常都会买帐。「Arcane」开幕前约一 两个月,他跟着日本供应商首次来到福冈,造访岛上专事生产 Mataichi 盐的盐工 。这间小小的制盐所及盐田由两兄弟经营,自玄海内湾与出海 厂「Kobo Tottan 」 口交界处汲取富含矿物质的海水,沿用传统古法煮沸并天然沥干制盐。 「到现在我还在讲这个故事,想必我家员工和许多客人都听到不想听了吧!」 「但讲再多次我也不厌倦、因为真的很棒,我超爱那个地方。 Shane 自嘲说道, 也很庆幸餐厅能有开放式厨房,可以和客人分享这些特殊食材。飞鱼卸货可以 看得一清二楚、他们也对番茄从何而来很感兴趣,想了解食材背后的故事。 」 餐厅的红魽鱼也大有来头,供应的养殖业者研发出不外传的秘密手法,以 长钉穿进鱼身-从哪刺入则是最高商业机密,红魽会在鱼缸里翻肚睡去约 12 小 时,肌肉乳酸将于这段时间完全消散。接着师傅使用日式料理秘技「ikejime」 活缔活鱼生切法让鱼麻痹、宰杀并放血,经过多道工序,制出的鱼肉变得更紧 实和鲜甜。 餐厅和少数几个供应商长期合作,关系相当紧密,餐厅选用从欧洲进口 的肉类及乳制品、澳洲和牛,部分微型草本及水芹类植物则从南非而来,但从 日本天天直送的农产及海鲜仍占最大比例。福冈与香港飞行时间仅仅 3 小时,

Shane 可以半夜下单,几个小时后供应商就能上市场采购,一大箱珍贵食材可 以即时上机、抵达厨房,赶上餐厅的晚餐时间。 」 ,Shane 首次 前一天送来的农产中有「日向夏橘子(hyuganatsu orange) 剥皮品尝后觉得多汁且酸呛中带着些许甜味,和葡萄柚有几分神似。「日向夏」 橘汁用来制作腌生鱼料理是否可行?团队每个成员都要试味道、分享看法。每 每有新的食材进来,生吃是第一阶段、接着汆烫品尝,最后再试过各种烹饪技巧, 看看能变化出什么样的味道及口感。 「一开始碰到新食材毫无头绪很正常,常要到了厨房尝过味 Shane 表示 : 道之后才有想法。我会看一下冰箱有什么菜、想一下,然后一股脑把菜做出来。 我就爱这种即时及爆发性,也是『Arcane』引人入胜的地方。我们无时无刻都 在试新的东西、不断精益求精,对员工对客人再好不过了。 」 餐厅菜色因季节及创意发想随时更新,因此菜单每天现印现用。有些日本 「我们 菜名可能听来奇特,但 Shane 有信心,自家菜色保有优良传统。他强调 : 无意以一堆让人看了头昏眼花、不能理解的专有名词来迷倒客人,也不走哗众 取宠、赶潮流或高科技的风格。 『Arcane』供应的是烹调简单,口味亲民、味道 一流的食物。高品质的农产、季节食材及纯粹原味才是让餐厅成功之关键。 」 free spirits

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“People seem to have lost faith in tomatoes in Hong Kong,” Osborn remarks of the star ingredient in the most popular item on his menu. “I have had at least a dozen customers tell me they can’t find good tomatoes in the shops and ask if they can buy their tomatoes from us. Unfortunately, they’re limited in quantity, so our tomatoes will have to remain something special at Arcane.” Grown in greenhouses year round, the “fruit tomatoes” are named as such in the winter because their seasonally lower water content results in a sweeter-tasting, firmer-bodied product. 谈到餐厅人气菜色中的明星食材,Shane 感叹 表示 : 「大家似乎对港产的番茄信心不再,至少有十 几位客人跟我说过在地店家遍寻不着好的番茄,想 直接跟我们买。可惜餐厅番茄数量有限,全都预留 」 在 Arcane 特色菜单上了。 经年于温室栽培, 「水果番茄」于凛冬时节出产、 含水量低,并因口味较甜、果肉扎实而得名。

Japanese Fruit Tomatoes 日本水果番茄

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INGREDIENTS

Japanese fruit tomatoes and baby rocket with thyme ricotta, green olive gremolata, toasted pine nuts, nigella seeds, and sherry vinegar dressing 日本水果番茄、芝麻叶,百里香ricotta 干酪、绿橄榄gremolata青酱、烤松 子、黑种草籽搭配雪莉醋淋酱

Japanese fruit tomatoes with thyme ricotta, green olive gremolata, and sherry vinegar dressing”

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INGREDIENTS

Mataichi Salt MATAICHI盐

LOCATED AT THE TIP of the Itoshima Peninsula, the Mataichi Salt Works, Kobo Tottan pumps mineral-rich seawater from the inner bay of the Genkai Sea. For ten days the seawater trickles over a traditional wooden structure of hanging bamboo grass where it is exposed to the sun and wind, slowly drying out. Then the concentrated salt water is transferred to large vats where it boils down for two days until crystals appear. The crystals naturally dry into amazing wpyramid shapes – the largest ones Osborn has seen measured an inch and a half across. 盐厂「Kobo Tottan」位于糸岛 一角,自玄海内湾抽取富含矿 物质的海水制作 Mataichi 盐。 天然海水流过传统挂著竹叶的 木造沥盐器,垂泻滴淌而下, 风吹日晒十天,慢慢沥干,浓 缩盐水接着引流到大型盆桶, 加热煮沸两天直到萃出盐晶。 盐晶自然放干至形成完美的金 字塔形状即可- Shane 看过最 大的甚至达 1.5 吋 ( 约 3.8 公分 )。

Pan-roasted Mayura wagyu sirloin 6+, Mataichi salt, urui, yamaimo, spinach compote, Espelette yogurt and onion jus 铁板炙烤Mayura和牛沙朗牛排(6盎司以上)、Mataichi盐、urui 野菜、山芋、渍波菜、埃斯普莱特辣椒优格及洋葱汤汁

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Tartare of kampachi with frilly kale, a salad of jicama and confit fennel, sesame, and soy and ginger dressing 薄切红魽鱼配羽衣甘蓝、豆薯油封茴香沙律、芝麻及酱油姜汁

Frilly Kale 羽衣甘蓝

MUCH OF ARCANE’S Japanese produce comes from Kubota Farm, a small farm in Fukuoka that specializes in European varieties. Osborn only recently discovered the purple and white frilly kale and was immediately captivated by its colors and appearance reminiscent of seaweed and coral. Blanched frilly kale brings color and life to a fresh-flavored dish of thinly sliced raw kampachi, interspersed with crisply textured raw jicama and confit fennel salad. 「Arcane」的日本农产品多数来自以栽种欧洲种作物为主的福冈小农 ,Shane 最近才发现紫白相间的羽衣甘蓝,那与海草及珊 「Kubota 农场」 瑚神似的色泽及外观立即掳获他的心。 羽衣甘蓝汆烫后,鲜艳色泽为新鲜的薄切红魽鱼增色不少,同时缀 上豆薯及油封茴香沙拉,增添爽脆口感。 FREE SPIRITS | TK |

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INGREDIENTS

THE NOVEMBER-TO-MAY season for Japanese winter strawberries is still a wonder to Osborn, who lived in London for twenty years and has the association of strawberries and cream at Wimbledon in June firmly fixed in his mind. The strawberries are luscious and vibrantly red, and while the flesh is more meaty than juicy, the sweetness and aroma shine through. White awayuki strawberries are an even greater source of surprise. The alpine variety look unripe, but simply lack the protein that causes normal pigmentation. The fruits have the same distinctly strawberry flavor and fragrance as their red counterparts. Shane 在伦敦住过廿年,温布敦六月盛产的草莓及草莓酱的美味深深烙印他的 脑海之中,然而日本十一月到五月采收的冬季草莓却别有一番风味,让他啧啧 称奇。冬季草莓果实饱满、透出明艳的红色光泽,要说多汁不如以满足口感形 容更为恰当,入口后甜味及香气立即充溢嘴巴之中。 阿尔卑斯山变种的淡雪草莓因缺乏成色所需的蛋白质,颜色雪白,更添让人 惊喜的效果。淡雪草莓保有草莓特有的味道及香气,和其他品种相比毫不逊色。

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Japanese Winter Strawberries 日本冬季草莓

Japanese red and white winter strawberries and baby mint with fromage blanc mousse, basil ice cream, and citrus filo 日本红色及白色冬季草莓、薄荷嫩叶、 白起司慕斯、罗勒冰淇淋及柑橘酥皮

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ESSAY

餐饮界的自由之魂

Free Spirits by Jane Ram

Although Hong Kong prides itself on fine food, the city’s modern constraints of time and space mean that the old ways of cooking from scratch at home have all but disappeared. Frozen dinners, cup noodles, semi-baked breads, instant sauces, and synthetic substitutes have increasingly ousted all that is traditional from household kitchens. §  But it’s not all bad news. In fact, a surprising number of culinary free spirits are keeping the faith. Some charted a course in their early years, others have discovered their calling serendipitously. Few are primarily motivated by money, and many have only modest-scale operations. But all are driven by a common passion for the best, a mission to share the fruits of their labors with others, and a burning desire to enrich our enjoyment of food.

§  香港以盛产美食为傲,然而囿限于

现代城市的时空条件,过去从零做起的居家烹调法已消逝殆尽,冷冻餐、杯 面、半熟面包、即时酱包和合成的替代食品逐渐将各种传统料理逐出自家厨 房。§  然而这也绝非坏事。其中有不少餐饮界的自由业者坚守信念,他们有 些人很早就走出了自己的路,有些则是偶然间受到天赋的召唤,也有少部分 因为金钱诱惑而涉足,许多人也只开设了各自的店铺经营。但这些自由新势 力有个共通点,就是同样受追求完美的热情所驱使,肩负着与他人分享自己 努力成果的使命,燃着熊熊渴望为大众丰富饮食享受。

GREGOIRE MICHAUD, whose career at fivestar hotels culminated as head of the pastry team at Hong Kong’s Four Seasons Hotel, set up his own bakery to produce artisanal products, including authentically French baguettes and croissants. If the quality of the bread in a Hong Kong restaurant makes a real impression, chances are it’s one of Michaud’s custom recipes created exclusively for that establishment. From the Wing Wo Apiary to the Hyatt Regency Shatin is only a short distance as

五星级酒店饼房名厨闵言乐(Gregoire Michaud)的职涯在香港四季酒店攀上巅峰, 随后他更创立了自己的面包店,以艺术手 法制作正宗法式长棍面包和可颂等精美糕 点。如听到有哪家香港餐厅的面包令人趋 之若鹜,很可能便是出自闵师傅专为那家 餐厅设计的特制食谱。永和蜜蜂场离沙田 凯悦酒店很近,饼房主厨赖耀辉不仅是在 酒店早餐自助吧提供在地生产的蜂巢为特 色,而是花了半年时间,让那近乎空气口 感,湿润绵密的「沙田蜂蜜蛋糕」至臻完美, 阵阵花香与味道都无懈可击。


CLOCKWISE FROM BOTTOM LEFT: TODD DARLING, PUBLIC DOMAIN, JANE RAM, HYATT REGENCY, JANE RAM, TOM HUGH,

the bee flies. And Pastry Chef Kelvin Lai does much more than simply feature the local producer’s honeycomb in the hotel’s breakfast buffet. He spent half a year perfecting his airy, moist Shatin Honey Cake with its unmistakably floral aroma and flavor. Amazon and Apple started in garages, Lotus cars were first built in an empty stable, and a remarkable pastry company was born in a tiny Hong Kong home kitchen. That’s where Carole Chan satisfied her passion for baking for family and friends. But as her fame spread and demand began to outstrip supply, she realized she’d either have to give it up or go professional. So she first refined her skills at prestigious École Lenôtre in Paris, then took the brave step of leasing a small shop in a quiet Causeway Bay street and naming it Le Goût (“taste”). Chan still makes everything in small batches and has never compromised on ingredients. Her specialoccasion cakes are always a hit, but it’s the French-style cookies that have crowds beating a path to her door. Parisians savor two and a half million cups of coffee every day, three out of four of them from Cafés Richard. In Hong Kong and Macau, Eric Daniel distributes these quintessentially French products and the equipment used in their preparation. With the aid of a mobile outdoor coffee bar, he advances his mission to educate people on le bon café francais. When So Su-Su found a bigger place in Wanchai to continue her popular breadmaking classes, she was also able to fulfill her ambition to open a retail outlet for unusual ingredients from around the world. She and a well-traveled foodie friend made a number of sourcing trips for the shop that she named Tête-à-Tête. Its shelves are laden with treasures like lemons from the Amalfi coast and tomatoes from Sicily, as well as beloved products from Hokkaido, including butter, cream cheese, and packets of mix for making the island’s famous pancakes. Nearly a decade ago, Joey Ng, a highflyer in the fashion world, and her brother Ping, a successful Paris photographer, gave

up their careers to be close to their ailing father in Ta Kwu Ling, still among Hong Kong’s greenest areas. Convinced that the region was ready for vegetables and fruit grown without chemical pesticides or fertilizers, they started intensive research and consultations with leading authorities on organic farming. The learning curve was steep, but in time they successfully transformed the family’s former packing station into Zen Organic Farm. With its own water source fed yearround by mountain springs, it is now the largest and most successful among the growing number of organic farms in Hong Kong. The aim from the outset was to raise gourmet crops, not to compete with what was already available locally. Their heirloom tomatoes and luscious Ital-

梦想飞翔 大放异彩

Mosaic of Mavericks

Seven independent thinkers carve out niches for foods that meet a need.

ian-type figs became an instant hit with upmarket restaurants, and Zen has never looked back. Susan Latimer’s Jetfresh Foods has been importing microgreens, edible flowers, and elfin vegetables from South Africa for the past few years to meet a growing demand in Hong Kong and, more recently, Macau, “A little pop of color from a single sprout of micromustard or a fresh burst of coriander flowers transports the taste buds to new levels,” says Latimer. “It’s also interesting to experience the flavors of different colored flowers of the same variety – a purple pansy doesn’t taste the same as a yellow one. Food has never been as beautiful and intricate as it is at the moment, and I’m happy our little products help chefs on their journey.”

Clockwise from bottom left: In Afghanistan (page 46), Jetfresh Foods, Eric Daniel at Cafés Richard, Shatin Honey Cake (沙田蜂蜜蛋糕) Joey Ng (吴碧云), Tom Hugh pepper (page 51), Le GoÛt , Bread Elements

著名企业「亚马逊」和「苹果」等公司从 车库发迹,莲花汽车最初在马厩生产,而 这间出色的糕饼铺则诞生在香港一处狭小 的自家厨房,这正是 Carole Chan 为亲朋 好友挥洒烹饪热忱的地方。随著名气渐渐 响亮,她的糕饼开始供不应求,Carole 知 道自己只有两个选择 :放弃或成为专业厨 师。 于是她先前往享誉盛名的雷诺特厨艺 学校 (Lenôtre) 进修,然后勇敢租下位于宁 静铜锣湾街上的一间小店,取名做 Le Goût (意思是「味道」)。她的糕饼以小批量制作, 在食材上从不马虎。每逢特殊节庆,店里 的蛋糕永远都是高人气​​, 而法式饼干则是 吸引顾客络绎不绝的主因。 巴黎人每天消费约 250 万杯咖啡,其 中四分之三来自 Cafés Richard。Eric Daniel 把这些典型的法式咖啡和冲泡设备引进 香港与澳门,并利用移动式户外咖啡吧进 一步让民众认识优质的法式咖啡。 在湾仔,Su-Su So 找到了更大的空间 继续她热门的面包制作课程,并实现她的 梦想 — 开一家进口全球稀有食材的零售店 Tête-à-Tête。她与一位爱好旅行和美食的 朋友多次出国搜罗食材,让这家店的架上 摆满着奇珍异宝,包括来自阿玛菲海岸的 柠檬与西西里岛的蕃茄,以及她珍爱的北 海道土产,例如奶油、奶油起司,以及当 地著名的松饼粉等等。 近十年前,正在时尚界隐步向前的吴 碧云与她有名的巴黎摄影师哥哥吴炳良二 人放弃原本的职业,到香港打鼓岭就近照 护生病的父亲。当时打鼓岭是香港最翠绿 的地区,他们了解到在这里种植蔬果不需 使用化学杀虫剂或肥料,便开始潜心钻研, 向有机栽种的顶尖权威请教。尽管万事起 头难,但他们却一步步地成功将家族包装 厂转型成「有心机农场」。 他们以终年源源不绝的山泉水灌溉, 在香港版图渐增的有机农场中,已成为最 成功的典范。 打从一开始,他们的目标就是种植高 档食材作物,而非跟既有的在地农家竞争。 其家传蕃茄与味道浓郁的意大利无花果一 上市就迅速在高档餐厅造成轰动,有心机 农场也从此蒸蒸日上。 Susan Latimer 的 Jetfresh Foods 过去数 年从南非引进芽苗、可食用花卉和精灵蔬 菜,以满足香港日增的需求。最近亦开始 引进澳门。Susan 说 : 「芥菜芽苗冒出一丁 点颜色,或香菜花冒出一点新芽,都能将 味蕾提升至崭新层次。品尝同一品种、不 同颜色花的味道也是很有趣的体验,紫色 的三色堇尝起来就是跟黄色的不一样。现 在的食材比从前更美丽、更精致,我也很 高兴这些小农产品能帮助厨师们开展他们 的味觉飨宴之旅。」 free spirits

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执念

Obsessions

Singl individua e-minded lists pursue au relentlessly thenticity .

Left to right: Ivy Chow, Fresca Fresh organic greens (新鲜有机蔬菜) An Nam Coconut Ice Cream (安南自制椰子冰淇淋) Paul Kwok (郭志波) Deep Fried Spring Rolls (安南春卷) Poon-Toh Suan Ee at Café Malacca (马来一荣誉餐饮顾问Poon-Toh Suan Ee)

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Fresca 能如此成功,完全不使用化学物 质栽培的新鲜香草、全麦与蔬菜只是一 部分原因,Ivy Chow 的个人亲和力,才 是这家位于荷李活道上亲切的餐厅如此 与众不同的主因,吸引了众多常客每天 外带健康午餐到公司。 Ivy 提早退休前是一名成功的猎头专 家,她经常在家用自己种的食材下厨, 自娱娱人,喜爱她厨艺的宾客经常建议 她自己开一家餐厅。花了数年时间,她 才终于改变心意,租下原本是一家古玩 店、内装像娃娃屋的店面。Ivy 说 : 「吃 素有很多原因,像是健康、环保、不再 剥削动物等等,实务上来说厨房污染的 风险也较低。」 她有八个员工,每天早上八点上班 准备新鲜食材,多数食材均来自 Ivy 的 自家花园或当地有机农场。经理 Jeff 毕 业自瑞士的旅馆学校,其他人则从做中

hotel school in Switzerland, but the others have learned by doing. Peter, a strict Buddhist who doesn’t eat onions or garlic, is glad to chop them for the secret-recipe soups. “Restaurants generally find it difficult to hire talent, but we receive CVs all the time,” says Chow. “People are looking for an opportunity to learn something different.” She hopes to open smaller outlets in other districts and has already been approached by several developers. “The biggest surprise has been the number of volunteers who would like to spend their spare time working here. We have one from IT who was fed up with his job and came here to learn some basic cooking skills. Another is the COO of a bank, and we have a top M&A lawyer. They all say this is a great place to de-stress because everyone is so cheerful!”

学习,像 Peter 是个自律甚严的佛教徒, 不吃洋葱跟大蒜,却很愿意将这两种食 材切碎后烹煮秘制汤品。 Ivy 说 : 「餐厅 通常很难雇人,但我们从来不缺履历。 人们会寻找能学习不同东西的机会。」 她希望能在其他地区开设较小的店 面,也已有不少开发商找她谈过。「最让 人惊讶的是有这么多人愿意花空闲时间 在这里当志工。我们有一位志工来自资 讯业,他厌倦自己的工作,就来这里学 习基本的烹饪技巧,另一位是银行的营 运长,甚至还有顶尖的并购律师。他们 都说这里很棒,可以纾压,因为每个人 都很有活力!」

LEFT TO RIGHT: DAVID HARTUNG (3), JANE RAM (3), AN NAM

The Personal Touch

FRESH HERBS, whole grains, and vegetables grown without chemicals are only part of the reason for Fresca’s success. Ivy Chow’s personal touch is what sets this friendly café on Hollywood Road a generous cut above. Many customers have become regulars, dropping in daily to take a healthy boxed lunch back to the office. Chow was a successful headhunter before taking early retirement. She often entertained at home, and guests who appreciated her cooking, with mostly homegrown ingredients, often asked why she didn’t open a restaurant. It took her a few years to come around, but at last she signed the lease on a former antique shop whose interior resembles a grownup doll house. “There are many reasons for being a vegetarian,” says Chow, “Health, environment, and an end to exploitation of animals. And on the practical level, there’s less risk of kitchen contamination.” The team of eight arrives at eight each morning to prepare everything fresh, with much of the produce coming from Chow’s garden or from local organic farms. Jeff, the manager, graduated from


Details, Details

Meals by the Millimeter

PAUL KWOK, CEO of restaurant and consultancy group 1957 & Co., says it took more than twenty tries to perfect An Nam’s coconut ice cream, made from the tender meat of young coconuts. Although Kwok has more than twenty-five years’ experience in the F&B business around the world, some of the dishes at his Vietnamese restaurants posed the greatest challenges of his career. “We amended the coconut ice cream recipe so many times that we almost had to beg the producer to keep going with the trials!” The signature Deep Fried Spring Rolls also went through a very complicated trial period before going on the menu. “We tried so many different ingredient combinations and cooking methods to perfect the final product. We learned to fry them starting in cold oil to maintain the wrapper’s smoothness and crispiness without bubbles. We also used butter lettuce for a different texture on the palate. The quality is always in the details. We also have a very complicated logistical process to deliver fresh wraps from the local markets in Vietnam – the excellence of the wrap plays an integral part in a perfect spring roll.”

郭志波是餐饮集团 1957 & Co. 的行政 总裁,他说他尝试了二十多次才做出 越南餐厅「安南」最棒的椰子冰淇淋, 而且只挑年轻椰子的嫩肉制作。虽然 郭总裁有超过 25 年旅居世界各地的餐 饮业资历,但安南餐厅的某些菜式却 是他职涯中的最大挑战 : 「我们多番修 改椰子冰淇淋的制作方法,差点就得 跪求椰子供应商对我们不离不弃!」 招牌菜炸春卷也是经历过非常复 杂的试验期后才捱出。「我们试过多种 食材组合和料理方式,才有最终的完 美成品。我们发现要先用冷油炸,才 能维持春卷皮的光滑酥脆而不起泡。 我们也用了莴苣以创造出不同口感, 品质永远在细节里。此外,我们从越 南当地市场运送新鲜春卷皮的物流也 非常繁琐,毕竟皮的品质对春卷是否 完美至关重要。」

AS HONORARY FOOD CONSULTANT to Café Malacca at Hotel Jen, Poon-Toh Suan Ee approaches her work with zeal and precision. Born and schooled in Penang, she had a distinguished early career as a microbiologist. As an accomplished home cook of Malaysian and Singaporean food, she puts both her scientific training and her professional experience in contract catering and theme-park management to full use in the hotel’s kitchen. Truly authentic ethnic food is rare in Hong Kong restaurants, since local chefs often can’t resist the urge to localize to some degree. But Café Malacca’s recipes are the real thing; many are Poon’s family heirlooms or acquired during her forty years in Singapore. “When I’m in Hong Kong, I’m breathing down the necks of the cooks 24/7,” she confesses. “But I do travel, and that’s when I get feedback about what’s happening with the food.” Many of the dishes have an interesting history that Poon enjoys relating to the chefs. And several times a year she takes one or two of them to Malaysia and Singapore to let them see

firsthand how the food is cooked, how it tastes, and how it should be served. On a recent jaunt, one chef became enamored of Singapore-style cereal prawns. He knew their large size would be popular in Hong Kong, and indeed, the dish has proved a hit on the à la carte menu. The challenge was in duplicating the slightly sweet crispy topping. Poon revealed that the secret ingredient is a brand of cereal not available in Hong Kong, and, nothing daunted, flew to Penang, found a wholesaler, and shipped sufficient stock for six months. It’s a brave cook who questions Poon, even in the matter of slicing cucumbers. She keeps a ruler in the kitchen, together with photos showing exactly how many millimeters thick the slices must be. “I’m very anal about getting details as perfect as possible. If you compromise a little, you’re lost. You must attract the eyes of the diners, and there will always be some in the restaurant who really know how the food should be. You can’t get away with serving an Indian curry when the guest orders rendang!”

Poon-Toh Suan Ee 是 今 旅 酒 店 马 来 一 菜馆的荣誉餐饮顾问,面对工作,她有 的是热忱与精确。在槟城出生、受教育 的她原本是一位微生物学家,现在则是 成就斐然的马来西亚与新加坡家庭料理 专家,将科学训练与宴席服务、主题公 园管理的专业经验,全数投注在酒店厨 房里。 香港餐厅真正道地的民族料理很少, 因为当地厨师总想做点调整以适应当地 口味。但马来一菜馆的菜单可是货真价 实的正宗,许多都来自 Poon 的家传食谱, 或是她在新加坡的 40 年间搜集而来。她 承认 : 「我在香港时无时无刻不在仔细观 察厨师,但我也会四处旅行,听听别人 对食物的评论。」 Poon 很喜欢菜式背后有与厨师相关 的有趣故事。每年她都会数次带一两位 厨师到马来西亚和新加坡,让他们亲眼

见识烹调方式、品尝味道、学习呈献与 摆盘。在最近一次旅程中,一位厨师为 新加坡的特色菜麦片虾着迷不已,他认 为香港人一定会喜欢这种大虾子,后来 果然在单点菜单上大获好评。制作这道 菜式的困难之处在于复制微甜的脆皮。 Poon 发现秘密配方是一种在香港买不到 的品牌麦片,于是她毅然飞到槟城,找 到一家批发商,一举获得长达六个月的 供应量。 而这位大胆的厨师连切小黄瓜都锱 铢必较。她在厨房里摆一把尺,与一张 显示一片小黄瓜必须精准至几毫米厚的 照片。「连小细节我都要求必须完美无 瑕,只要有一点妥协,那就输了。你必 须吸引饕客的目光,因为餐厅里总得有 人真的知道食物该是什么样子。如果客 人点的是印尼咖喱,就绝不能用印度咖 喱应付了事!」 free spirits

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七年前,创业家 Todd Darling 想在自己的 餐厅和线上食品公司 Homegrown Foods 详 细介绍香港的农产品,也因此开始对认识 种植农产品的香港农夫产生兴趣。 如今他最新的农产品来自阿富汗,包 括 蜂 蜜、 白 桑 椹 糖 浆 和 开 心 果。「Hummingfish 基 金 会 是 香 港 一 家 非 政 府 组 织, 专门与小农合作,推广永续农产品。我们 的农产品就是透过 Hummingfish 基金会取 得的。桑椹糖酱在我家是常备食品,可用 在优格、冰淇淋、松饼和苏打水上,阿富 汗人会搭配早餐与凝乳一起吃,以百分百 野生桑椹制作,对胃痛和咳嗽还有疗效。」 这些农产品虽然不具有机认证,但栽种时 完全不使用化学物质。 Todd 说 : 「农夫们在意他们的生活及 生计远多于是否与那些不存在于他们国家 的验证机构合作。」我们已经用一整年的时 间去筹备优化物流环节。目前所有货物采 用空运运输,而未来长期目标是用火车铁 路运输。 二月时,Todd 仍继续着寻找稀有健康 农产品的远征之旅,他来到蒙古见一位正 在实验新乳制品和蔬菜栽培系统的农夫。 「他的目标是在亚洲各地建立培训农场,并 会依据各在地社区的需求调整。」

TODD DARLING (6), JANE RAM, DAVID HARTUNG

A Darling Idea SEVEN YEARS AGO entrepreneur Todd Darling developed an interest in meeting the Hong Kong farmers behind the products that he planned to feature at Homegrown Foods, the restaurant and online food company he founded. Today, his latest line of products comes from Afghanistan and includes honey, white mulberry syrup, and pistachios. “Afghanistan came to us through

Hummingfish, a local NGO that specializes in working with small farmers to foster sustainable products. The mulberry syrup is a staple at my house on yogurt, ice cream, and pancakes, and in soda water. In Afghanistan they eat it for breakfast with milk curds. It’s derived from 100 percent wild mulberries, and it has medicinal uses for upset stomach or coughs.” These products are grown without chemicals although they are not actually certified organic. The farmers are more concerned with their lives and earning a living than working with certification bodies, which still do not even exist in their country, says Darling. Logistics have taken a year to sort out. At present everything comes by air, but the long-term goal is to ship products by train. In February, Darling’s continuing quest for unusual healthy products took him to Mongolia to meet a farmer who is experimenting with new systems of dairy and vegetable production. “His aim is to set up training farms around Asia, tailored to local communities.”


the aromatic chanterelles named yellow foot. We use his mushrooms on our special Chef ’s Table menu called Nordic Express. “For many Finns, mushroom picking is ‘forest yoga,’ the opposite of their very hectic working life. There’s no better way to recharge your energy. Foraging is extremely rewarding – every time you cook the precious plants you’ve gathered, it brings your mind back to the calm forest.” When he returns to Finland on holiday, Sorsa is right next to the forest that starts at the back garden of his parents’ home. “I gather spruce shoots and needles, lichen, and pine needles. For our Valentine’s menu, I collect pine pollen, dry it, and sprinkle it on top of our appetizer, Smoked Oyster Soup. It’s known to boost the production of sex hormones.”

Finding Food

FINDS IS AN ACRONYM for Finland, Iceland, Norway, Denmark, and Sweden, and it aptly applies to the exotic and exclusive items in use at the restaurant of the same name at The Luxe Manor, presided over by Chef Jaakko Sorsa. Nordic countries in general, and especially Sorsa’s native Finland, have a long tradition of foraging for unusual seasonal wild produce that can be dried or otherwise preserved for use during the long winters. But how many Hong Kong restaurants can say they have their own private mushroom collector? Meet Seppo Vanhanen from the Finnish coastal town of Kotka, who gathers them as a hobby. “He travels through Hong Kong and always makes time to drop in at FINDS for dinner,” explains Sorsa. “He’s in his sixties, has a big bushy beard, and looks almost like Santa Claus on a day off. A few years back he asked whether I could use any mushrooms, like

FINDS 是芬兰、冰岛、挪威、丹麦、瑞 典的头字母缩写,用在主厨 Jaakko Sorsa 主理、位于帝乐文娜公馆的同名餐厅里再 适合不过了,因为餐厅的品项既充满异国 风情又独一无二。 北欧国家有一项悠久传统,就是寻找 可风干或腌渍保存的罕见当令野菜,以为 漫漫长冬做准备,Jaakko 的故乡芬兰也不 例外。但有多少香港餐厅敢宣称自己有专 人负责采菇呢? Seppo Vanhanen 来 自 芬 兰 滨 海 小 镇 Kotka,就是个以采菇为嗜好的人。 Jaakko 说: 「他每次旅行经过香港,都会找时间 到 FINDS 吃晚餐。60 几岁的他蓄着浓密 大胡子,看起来就像休假中的圣诞老人。 几年前他问我能不能在料理中使用他采的 菇类,像是有香味的鸡油菌等。我们把他 的菇类用在主厨精选菜单里,称作 Nordic Express。对许多芬兰人来说,采菇是森林 瑜伽,与汲汲营营的工作生活截然不同, 是最棒的充电方式。而且自己采集食材能 获得极大的成就感,每次我料理自己采集 的珍贵植物时,心思就不禁飘回到静谧的 森林。」 每当 Jaakko 放假回芬兰父母家,就会 到与房屋后花园紧邻的森林采集食材。「我 会采云杉的芽和针叶、地衣、松针。若要 制作情人节料理,我会采集松花粉,干燥 后撒在开胃菜烟熏蚝汤上,对刺激性贺尔 蒙分泌最有效。 」

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厨师

The Pursuit of Pastry 正当 Cyril Dupuis 觉得在巴黎工作有点无 趣 时, 名 厨 Alain Ducasse 引 领 他 成 为 香 港洲际酒店的行政饼厨。Cyril 15 岁时就 决心要接受专业的厨师训练,他先在巴黎 为 Pierre Hermé 工作三年,之后才到 Alain Ducasse 门下,度过了收获满满的 16 年。 洲际酒店对他而言是个令人振奋的挑 战。他说 : 「在这种规模的酒店,一切都必 须完美,即使是最简单的蛋糕都要讲究完 美制作。」Cyril 带领的团队有 24 人,包括 糕饼和甜点师傅与四位面包烘培师。这家 看似运作顺畅的工厂,展现了极精湛的工 艺技术, 「我们的食谱都是特制的。香港人 都是美食专家,对食物期待很高,跟巴黎 差不多,甚至超越纽约或日本。」他说道。 「在这里随处都可吃到美食。为持续吸 引常客,我们一年更动品茶单七次,池畔 餐厅自助餐的菜式则每周轮调一半。顾客 给我们不少压力,但这是好事。」

Three l ea ch allen ding lights ge them se toward perfecti lves on.

STÉPHANE GORTINA’S initiation into the world of good food started early. “I grew up near Nice, where my parents had a house in the forest with a garden. France is fortunate in its varied terroir that produces so many different products. I always knew the taste of a zucchini or a tomato warmed by the sun. My parents often dined out and took me along, but they never ordered for me from the children’s menu – they educated me about what cuisine is.” Now Executive Chef at Spoon by Alain Ducasse, Gortina believes that “perfection in cooking requires passion, pleasure, and art. If there’s no passion you can’t transform even the best product. And you must have pleasure in what you do – I cook something because I want to eat it. That’s sixty to seventy percent of perfection. The rest is professional skill and training. “Ever since I can remember, I wanted to cook. My father was not keen on the idea. Finally he agreed, but he insisted

that I reach the highest level diploma. I did, and I graduated a year early. At eighteen I worked with a two-star Michelin chef – it was hard, but I persevered. He was a friend of Ducasse and introduced me to the master.” Gortina spent eleven years working for Ducasse in France and around the world before taking up his present position. “I learned a lot from other cultures and other chefs,” he says. “I’m still learning, but now my job is to share what I know. “Am I competing with myself? Yes, in a way. Guests pay good money and they don’t care about my moods of the day. People in Hong Kong know fine dining – you can’t deceive them. “My greatest challenge is to get back Spoon’s second Michelin star. One was lost about three weeks before I arrived, and now we’re working for the 2017 guide. It involves more than food – presentation and service are equally important.”

Passion, Pleasure, and Art Stéphane Gortina 很 早 就 想 在 美 食 的 世 界里一探究竟。「我的故乡很靠近尼斯, 父母在那里有一栋森林小屋,还有一座 花园。法国是个得天独厚的地方,有各 种风土孕育许多不同的农作物,沐浴在 暖阳下的栉瓜和蕃茄是我十分熟悉的味 道。我父母常在外吃饭,也会带我一起去, 但他们从不帮我点儿童餐,而会教导我 什么是真正的美食。」 目前身为 Spoon by Alain Ducasse 行 政总厨的 Stéphane 相信,「完美的烹饪 需要热情、欢愉与艺术。如果没有热情, 食材再好也无法经过转化,而且一定要 对工作抱持愉悦的心,我做这道料理是 因为我想吃,如此就有六到七成的完美。 剩下的就是专业技能与训练。」 「 从 有 记 忆 以 来, 我 就 想 做 厨 师, 但父亲并不支持。后来他终于同意了,

但坚持要我先获得最高学位。我做到了, 甚至比预期早一年毕业。18 岁时我与一 位米其林二星大厨共事,很辛苦,但我 坚持下来了。 他 是 Alain Ducasse 的 朋 友, 后 来 把 我 引 介 给 这 位 大 师。」接 下 现 职 前, Stéphane 在法国和世界各地为 Alain Ducasse 工作了 11 年,「我从其他文化和厨 师身上学到很多,我还在学习,现在的 工作则是与人分享所学。」他说道。 「我在和自己比赛吗?对,算是吧。 宾客花大钱聘请我,也不会管我当天心 情如何。香港人很懂美食,你骗不了他们。 我最大的挑战是赢回 Spoon 的第二颗米 其林星星。我到职约三周前餐厅刚损失 一颗,现在我们正为 2017 年米其林指南 努力。不只食物重要,呈献方式与服务 同样重要。」

COURTESY OF INTERCONTINENTAL , COURTESY OF SPOON, TWENTY SIX BY LIBERTY (2)

CYRIL DUPUIS was beginning to feel working in Paris had become a little boring. That’s when Alain Ducasse was instrumental in bringing him to his present position as Executive Pastry Chef at the InterContinental Hong Kong. By age fifteen, Dupuis had made up his mind on professional chef training, and he went on to work with Pierre Hermé for three years in Paris before joining Ducasse for what turned out to be sixteen intensely satisfying years. The InterContinental has presented a stimulating challenge. “In establishments like this,” he says, “everything must be perfect. Even the simplest cake must be well made and presented.” Dupuis heads a team of twenty-four, and while the operation might appear like a well-run factory, the artisanal approach is evident. “We use custom recipes and we don’t take shortcuts. People in Hong Kong are expert in culinary matters,” he says, “and expectations are almost as high as in Paris, even higher than in New York or Japan.”

The Ch efs


But tonight’s roast pigeon is quite special.” Quite special turned out to be an understatement. The bird was marinated in muscovado sugar and sake, garnished with crispy tapioca and pickled rose petals. The gravy was made from red cabbage juice with pigeon blood, garnished with a cold red cabbage salad rolled in green apple, and with rosewater jelly, pickled rose petals, and rose petals sautéed with rosemary for texture. When people ask him to describe his food he says, “What I like to eat I like to cook! My food is modern, innovative, and international. There are usually some recognizable German elements like potato, eel, and horseradish. “I’m influenced by my travels – South America, Australia, Thailand, and Japan have all helped shape my food.” There’s no hiding anything in the restaurant’s intimate environment, where diners see everything taking shape. Alexander revels in the direct contact with his customers. “One guest commented that I am very brave to work this way. But I like to be able to introduce the food to guests as they’re served. One couple said they followed me from the French Window to WHISK and now to Twenty Six. One man made my day when he listed all eight courses he ate years ago at a wine dinner. That’s very gratifying and makes me think I did a great job.”

The Future of Dining, Here & Now

LIKE AN ACTOR about to go on stage, Executive Chef Bjoern Alexander strides restlessly back and forth, waiting for the first guests to arrive at his restaurant, Twenty Six by Liberty. Throughout the evening he ties and reties his apron every few minutes, the only outward sign of nerves. “I always ask myself whether I did a good job,” he says. “I’m hard on myself, and that’s how I treat my staff – I’m always striving for perfection.” Alexander muses on the concept behind his twenty-six-seat restaurant: “This is the new future of dining worldwide. Traditional fine dining is dying and people no longer want to sit in a stiff environment, they want to relax while they enjoy good food. Small restaurants are the future.” Here there are two seatings, although not in the usual sense. Arrival times are staggered, with about fourteen guests seated by seven o’clock and the rest an hour later. “Everybody eats the same ten-course tasting menu,” explains Alexander. “Some people say they don’t like oysters or octopus, but I try to encourage them to try, and they usually end up enjoying it. “I don’t have any permanent signature dishes, since I change the menu completely every two to three months. It’s a pity you’ve just missed the barbecued avocado!

行政总厨 Bjoern Alexander 像个即将登台的 演员,等待着 Twenty Six by Liberty 餐厅的 第一批顾客。整个傍晚他每隔几分钟就松 开又绑紧围裙,凭这小举动才能察觉到他 的紧张。他说 : 「我对自己很严厉,我要求 自己永远都要追求完美。」 这间餐厅只有 26 个座位,Bjoern 思索 着背后的意涵说: 「这是全球餐饮的新未来。 人们不想在拘谨的环境里吃饭,而想要轻 松地享受美食。小餐厅才是未来的趋势!」 Bjoern 解释道 : 「我们供应给每个人的 都是十道的品尝菜单,有些人会说不喜欢 蚝或章鱼,但我会尽量鼓励他们试试看, 通常他们尝过后都很喜欢,这是与顾客互 动的好处之一。我们没有任何永久的招牌 菜,因为我每两三个月就更新菜单一次。 如你刚好错过了烧烤酪梨,没关系,今晚 的烤乳鸽也很特别!」 「很特别」的形容实在太过轻描淡写。 这道乳鸽先浸泡在黑砂糖与清酒里,再用 酥脆的木薯粉与腌渍玫瑰花瓣装饰。酱汁 是用红甘蓝菜汁与鸽血制成,再摆上一道 用青苹果包裹的冷红甘蓝菜沙拉,佐玫瑰 水果冻、腌渍玫瑰花瓣,还有用迷迭香煎 炒过的玫瑰花瓣以增加口感。 Bjoern 表示 : 「我喜欢吃什么,就喜欢 做什么!我的食物很时尚、创新、国际化, 通常会有些明显的德国元素,像是马铃薯、 鳗鱼、辣根等等。旅行也影响了我,在南 美、澳洲、泰国和日本的游历都有助于我 自创菜式。我才刚从曼谷回来,那里路边 摊的烤肉深得我心。河内的食物非常清爽, 味道丰富。现在我又迷上了海藻。」 在 餐 厅 中, 宾 客 可 看 到 所 有 食 物 的 制作过程。Bjoern 十分喜欢与顾客接触 : 「有位顾客说我这样很勇敢,但我喜欢向 顾客介绍他们所吃餐点,如果我看到顾客 表情不对劲,就可以马上解决。每周约有 十到十五位顾客会光临两次以上。有对夫 妇说他们跟着我一路从 French Window 到 WHISK 再到 Twenty Six。还有位男士能讲 出他几年前在 WHISK 一场葡萄酒晚宴上 吃的八道料理,让我好开心。这种满足感 让我知道自己表现得很好。」 free spirits

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四年前,Flavio Padilha 想把南美洲和非洲 极 具 特 色 的 有 机 食 品 引 进 香 港, 为 社 区 及 环 保 尽 一 己 之 力, 因 而 创 立 了 Tembo Foods。 「或许是因为环境恶化,黑心食品令人 恐慌,因此对有机食品感兴趣的人越来越 多。香港人过去习惯透过当地菜式或中药 材获取健康食材,但现在大家对以前没听 过的食物认识之深,像是奇亚籽、玛卡、 巴西莓、卡姆果以及西印度樱桃等。」 Flavio 原先是巴西领事馆的高级贸易 主管,后来立下志愿,要推广巴西的有机 产品,先开始是藜麦和玛黛茶试,后来逐 步扩大,还发掘到斯里兰卡的 Cocomi 有 机椰子油和坦尚尼亚的猴面包树 : 「它其实 有著很特别的超级果实,那里的人几世纪 前就开始吃了。」 他表示 : 「有机食物多半偏贵,但我尽 量压低利润,只希望每个人都吃得起健康 食品。」

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ON HOLIDAY IN SRI LANKA three years ago, Elaine Jamieson and Richard Baker fell in love with the island and started asking themselves how they could connect to the place. “We thought about what we’d really enjoyed and recalled the wonderful black pepper on tuna we’d ordered at a beach restaurant. Ironically, the tuna had to go back to the kitchen because it was cold, but the pepper was wonderful! We started looking into whether we could import it from Sri Lanka.” Jamieson and Baker began scrutinizing supermarket shelves and looking at the peppercorns on offer. They found any indication of provenance rare, and the tired-looking contents of the jars on display could have been packed anywhere in the world. Research brought them to the Small Organic Farmers Association of Sri Lanka (SOFA). “We went to meet them and we were delighted with what we found,” explained Baker. “SOFA has over two thousand farmers, each with about an acre of garden where they grow coffee, tea, cardamom, and cinnamon, as well as pepper. This

JANE RAM, TOM HUGH (3)

Quinoa to Coconuts

FLAVIO PADILHA established Tembo Foods four years ago because he wanted to bring unusual organic food products from South America and Africa to Hong Kong in a way that would support communities and the environment. “I’ve observed a growing interest, perhaps in reaction to environmental degradation and food scares. People in Hong Kong have a traditional inclination toward healthy foods in local cuisine and through TCM, and now people everywhere are familiar with previously unheard of things like chia seeds, maca, acai, camu camu, and acerola.” In his former post as senior trade officer at the Brazilian consulate, Padilha developed an ambition to bring organic products from Brazil, starting with quinoa and yerba mate. Eventually he began exploring further afield and discovered Cocomi coconut oil in Sri Lanka and the baobab tree in Tanzania. “It actually has a very unusual super-fruit that people have used for centuries,” he says. “A lot of organic items are pricey, but I keep my profit margins low because I want everyone to be able to afford healthy food.”


发现与众

不同

Sourci ng Somet hing Sp ecial

Pepper with Provenance

is biodiversity in action. Their organic certification is from the EU and they operate according to Fair Trade standards.” Jamieson, an interior designer, and Baker, a lawyer, decided a few years ago that after having achieved success in their respective careers, they wanted to make a difference. “In time we look forward to injecting some money into SOFA, perhaps setting up scholarships or something else for their farming community,” says Baker. The brand was christened Tom Hugh in honor of both of the couple’s fathers, and after two years, the first purchase order arrived from Dairy Farm. “We didn’t sell the pepper, it sold itself,” said Baker. “We met the relevant people in the specialty department and they recognized this as something special.” A growing number of local restaurants are already buying Tom Hugh in kilo bags, and food distributor Samways is now offering it online. Last year the product scored a big hit at the Specialty & Fine Food Fair at London’s Olympia. The tasting display included a mountain of strawberries

that attracted a lot of interest from media, food service industries, and the UK’s growing number of farm shops. “We want to stick with pepper, but we might expand to importing it from Vietnam, Sarawak, and Cambodia,” says Jamieson. “And there is a special relationship between turmeric and pepper. I’m also interested in promoting an understanding of the medicinal use of spices. “Different qualities and varieties of pepper are attracting increasing attention,” she explains. “It’s like different kinds of salt. No one asks Maldon Crystal Salt why they only have one product! There’s been strong resistance to white pepper, but once we convinced people to try it they went away giggling. It’s more expensive because the outer husk has to be removed, which involves extra processing. It takes longer to appreciate, but it’s hotter and spicier and it lingers on the palate.” “We thought we’d just find some pepper, put it in a bag and sell it,” remarks Baker. “Thank goodness we don’t make fruitcake! We want to keep things simple, do the best we can right across the board with it. That keeps us busy. We’re in our fifties and we’re learning a new business, not just waiting for the gold watch and retirement. It’s great, it’s energizing, and we feel fantastic with it. We don’t want a major corporate thing. If we can use our experience to put something on the shelves, that’s the challenge and the fun and the learning. “It’s great to be surrounded by people who are excited about what they do – it’s so different from what we experience in the course of regular work. We both provide services for which no one even says thank you. Now we’re dealing with people at every touch point from growing to retail – they’re magic!” “Someone was smiling when they filled these packets,” adds Jamieson. “It’s a social thing, about fifteen or twenty people packing spices, peppercorns, or whatever, sitting around a table chatting and laughing.”

Elaine Jamieson 和 Richard Baker 三年前去 斯里兰卡度假,爱上了这座岛,开始问自 己如何维系跟它的缘分。 「我们最爱这里 的什么呢?喔对了,之前在一家海滩餐厅 吃到鲔鱼,上头的黑胡椒很棒。讽刺的是, 鲔鱼是冷的,得先由厨房处理,但胡椒实 在美味至极!于是我们着手调查从斯里兰 卡进口胡椒的可能性。」两人先去逛超市, 发现货架上陈列的胡椒罐看起来都差不多, 在全球任意一个地方生产都有可能。经过 研究,他们发现了斯里兰卡的小型有机农 夫 协 会 (SOFA)。 Richard 说 : 「我们见面 后一拍即合。这个协会有超过两千名农夫 加入,每个农夫手上有约一英亩土地,用 来种植咖啡、茶叶、豆蔻、肉桂和胡椒等, 这些自有农的认证由欧盟核发,根据公平 贸易标准经营。」 从事室内设计的 Elaine 和身为律师的 Richard 几年前决定事业有成之后,立志要 让这世界变得更好。 Richard 又说 : 「我们 计画慢慢地给 SOFA 披入些资金,设立奖 学金、或为农夫社区成立什么之类的。」他 们成立品牌 Tom Hugh,以纪念这对夫妻双 方的父亲。两年后,他们接到了来自奶酪 农场的第一笔订单。 本地越来越多餐厅跟 Tom Hugh 购买 一公斤装的胡椒,甚至食品经销商 Samways 也 在 网 路 上 贩 卖 他 们 的 胡 椒。 去 年 这项产品在伦敦奥林匹亚中心举辨的 Specialty & Fine Food Fair 销售热烈。备受食品 服务业和英国农产品商店瞩目,也吸引了 大批媒体采访。Elaine 说 : 「我们只想专注 卖胡椒,但可能扩大进口来源,像是越南、 马来西亚的沙劳越、柬埔寨等地。此外, 姜黄和胡椒也极有渊源,我也蛮想推广香 料的药用价值。」 「越来越多人注意到胡椒分成很多种, 各具不同特质。」她进一步说明,「就好像 盐也分成许多种,没人会问 Maldon Crystal Salt 为何只有一种产品。白胡椒本来不受 欢迎,但我们说服了某些人试一试,结果 全都笑得合不拢嘴。白胡椒比较贵,因为 得先除掉外壳,需要多花点时间才懂得欣 赏,但其实它们更香更辣,令人齿颊留香。」 Richard 说 : 「 我 们 想 尽 量 保 持 简 单, 只把这一块做好,但光如此便已忙碌不已。 我们已经五十几岁,新事业才刚起步。但 我们充满干劲。我们不想以企业化经营。 只想运用经验让东西上架,这就是挑战和 乐趣所在,也能学到很多。能够跟对热爱 自身工作的人一起努力,真的很赞!跟从 事一般行业的感受截然不同。我们俩以前 为客户服务时,从没听人说一声谢谢。现 在我们得跟许多人打交道,从农人到零售 商等等,他们都展现不同的魔力!」 Elaine 一旁补充道 : 「这是真挚的联谊, 大伙儿一起工作,一面替香料、胡椒或各 种材料包装,一面谈笑风生。」 free spirits

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A top

restaurateur and t wo

famous c hefs simplify &

rejuvenate

fine French cuisine.


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Pigeon 鸽子

When it comes to poultry, Brittany’s Paul Renault is a star among artisanal farmers. His special breed of pigeons gets a custom diet that produces tender, fine-textured flesh with a delicate flavor. On the strength of Pelé’s past relationship with him, Serge et le Phoque receives a weekly delivery of twentyfour pigeons – the total of Renault’s exports to Hong Kong. The pigeon is paired with pickled cloud ear, naturally salty samphire, the Japanese cockle akagai, and jus made from the liver. 提起家禽肉,法国当地小农 Paul Renault 饲养的鸽子可谓首屈一指。他饲养的鸽 子品种特殊,喂的饲料也跟别人不同,所以肉质鲜嫩、口感细致、滋味微妙。因 为 Christophe 跟他交情非比寻常,他每星期会送二十四只鸽子到我们店里,而 全香港就这么多。鸽肉配上腌制云耳、鲜咸味的海芦笋、日本赤贝,最后淋上 用鸽肝煮的浓汁。


INGREDIENTS

CHARLES PELLETIER, co-owner of the contemporary French restaurant Serge Charles Pelletier 是法国餐厅 Serge et le Phoque 的老板之一, 这天他朝窗外望了一眼,看到放在人行道上的保丽龙箱越堆越 et le Phoque, glances out the window and laughs as another tall stack of white 高,像要再次遮没面前的湾仔湿货街市,忍不住笑了。有次葡 Styrofoam marketplace boxes grows on the sidewalk outside, once again 萄牙籍艺术家周奥(João Vasco Paiva)在这儿吃晚餐,见到 blocking the view of the Wanchai wet market. It was this exact scene, how这幅景象如获启迪,因而创作出作品陵墓 (Mausoleum),在香 ever, that was observed by artist João Vasco Paiva during dinner service one 港 2015 年的巴赛尔艺术展上大放异彩。 night and inspired his sculpture Mausoleum, a showstopper at Art Basel Hong 虽说高雅的餐厅外头便是熙来攘往的闹市,看似很不搭 Kong 2015. 调,但 Charles 和两名来自巴黎的明星大厨拍档却不以为忤, While such a teeming street market setting might seem incongruous 因为这样非常贴近当地生活。两位厨师来头都不小,Frédéric for a sophisticated dining establishment, its rough authenticity was perfect to Pelletier and his two high-profile Parisian partners, Frédéric Peneau of Peneau 经 营 全 球 知 名 的 Le Chateaubriand 餐 厅,Christophe renowned Le Chateaubriand and Christophe Pelé of two-Michelin-starred La Pelé 则为巴黎米其林二星 La Bigarrade 餐馆掌杓。Charles 说: 「我们简化繁复礼仪,把高级精致 Bigarrade. 的用餐体验打造成普及,大众都 “We democratize fine dining by simplifying BY MAMIE CHEN 能享受的过程,因为这绝非有钱 it and making it more accessible,” says Pelletier. 人的专利。 」 The laminated tables, plywood floors, and PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG 环视餐厅一周,只见极简超 roughly finished walls are a calculatedly neutral 薄餐桌、地板用上木夹板和未多 environment that serves as blank canvas for the 加修饰的墙面摆放得落落大方, artistry of the dining experience. Their departure 一切均经过精心考量,如像打造 from a prix fixe tasting menu in favor of à la carte 一幅空白画布,让创意用餐体验 with sharing-size portions has further created 自由发挥。 这里也没有固定价格 a more relaxed and fun environment. “Though 的套餐菜单,每一道菜都是单点, it wasn’t our intent, the tasting menu made our 份量较大,方便大伙儿一道分食, restaurant feel more formal and serious,” says 带动起轻松愉快的气氛。「先前 Pelletier. “Now with the shared dishes, there is 我们提供套餐菜单,气氛变得正 more table life, and our guests have more free式起来,甚至略嫌严肃,这并不 dom to rediscover the pure pleasure of eating.” 「现 是我们想要的。 」Charles 说, Many of the ingredients used at Serge et le 在推行分享单点菜色 ,餐桌气氛 Phoque are the same as those found at its fancier 变得更活泼,客人感觉更自由, counterparts, but the prices don’t reflect a high 重新发现饮食之乐。 」 markup from inflated rents and superfluous accoutrements. “We use the same lobster and oysters Serge et le Phoque 选用的 食材,和时髦高级的餐馆差不多, that Jean Denis Le Bras uses at Pierre – and he’s 但因无需负担高昂租金和过多装 been trying to get the same pigeons we have!” 潢,价格定得相对亲民。「我们 Instead of the layers upon layers of tradi跟 顶 级 餐 厅 Pierre 的 主 厨 Jean tional French cuisine, Pelé, Peneau, and their team peel them away to allow the natural flavors of Denis Le Bras 选用同样的龙虾跟 生蚝,他甚至想跟我们用一样的 the original ingredients to shine through. Dishes Charles Pelletier 鸽子呢!」 are cooked à la minute as much as possible. Sous 这里的主厨们都不爱传统法 vide is verboten. “If a product tastes good fresh, 国菜过多的藻饰,选择把它们统 then we keep it fresh on the plate,” says resident 统去掉,好让食物滋味自然焕发出来。餐厅大多数菜肴都是现 chef Nicholas Chew. “There’s no point in doing more just for the sake of doing 「东 点现做,绝对不用低温烹调。驻店厨师 Nicholas Chew 说 : more.” 西要是够新鲜,我们就让它新鲜上桌,没有必要为追求繁复而 With so little precooking, preparation in the kitchen approaches madness 变得复杂。 」 during dinner service, and infinitely more so when one or both of the French 正因没设预煮,晚餐时分厨房里总是热火朝天、争分夺秒, chefs are in town. While Peneau’s ideas for new dishes are based on a very 尤其是当法国主厨都在掌控全局,更是如此。 Frédéric 之前在 refined palate from years of collaboration with Iñaki Aizpitarte, “Christophe is 巴黎任职时,曾与名厨 Iñaki Aizpitarte 共事数年,培养出对新 all about spontaneous creation,” says Chew. “He loves to create dishes on the 「Christophe 最爱即兴创造新菜色, 菜色的敏锐味觉。Nicholas 说: spot based on whatever ingredients he has. The team has grown a lot learning 从面前的材料变出新花样。这里的厨师都从他身上学到很多。 」 from him.” 跟这两位名厨走一趟市场,包管大开眼界,对寻常的食 A walk through the market with the French chefs becomes an exploration 材会有意想不到的大发现。「Christophe 喜欢中国的豆瓣酱, of familiar ingredients through fresh eyes. “Christophe likes doubanjiang,” says 我们可能拿日本的味噌来搭配,尝尝滋味。要是味道不对,就 Chew of the spicy bean paste. “He might try it with miso and see if the harmony 刮掉重来。总之爱怎么试都行。 」或许不断地试验、错误会 is good. If not, we’ll scrap it and try something else. There are no limitations.” 令人备感挫折,但这也是 Serge et le Phoque 创新的动力。 Such constant trial and error might be frustrating to some, but it’s the 「要用 engine of innovation at Serge et le Phoque. Chew quotes Pelé’s motivating Nicholas 引用 Christophe 老爱挂在嘴上发人深省的话 : 心去煮,那怕只做给一个人吃。只要奉献心中满满的爱,最终 mantra: “Cook with your heart, even for only one person. Give all the love you 必会成功。 」 can, and it will always come through.”

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Japanese Mackerel 日本鲭鱼

Cooked à la minute, the fish is first lightly torched and then broiled in the salamander for no more than eight to ten minutes to keep the center moist and translucent. Fresh cherries and pickled onion accentuate the distinct flavor of the fish, while their acidity cuts through its natural oiliness. For a hint of delicate creaminess, wafer-thin slices of Lardo di Colonnata, which is specially cured in marble caves, are laid across the dish, and it is garnished with fresh dill. 由于是现点现做,这道鱼会先熏炙,再放进火炉, 顶多烤八到十分钟,这样中心部位才会微透多汁。 新鲜樱桃和腌洋葱最能衬托这道鱼的独特滋味,其 酸味能中和油腻,带来平衡。欲为整体加点乳脂 点缀口感,主厨加上几片薄切的意大利腌猪白肉

(Lardo di Colonnata),它们在大理石洞窟内熟成, 味道与众不同。腌猪白肉铺在最上,缀以新鲜莳萝。

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INGREDIENTS

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Crosne 草石蚕

Despite its grub-like appearance, the crosne (pronounced “crone”) is actually a root vegetable of the mint family. Eaten raw, it’s as crunchy and juicy as a red radish but without the peppery kick. Chef Chew flash-fries them for only a couple of minutes at high heat to make sure the tubers retain their natural crispness. Orange confit gives the dish a bright highlight, and the dipping sauce is punctuated with contrasting bits of grated red daikon and minced chives. 看起来像小蛆一般,草石蚕其实是一种根茎类蔬菜。生吃时,咬下去 喀嗤喀嗤,水分很多,像樱桃萝卜却没带辣味。 Nicholas 只用高温略 炸两分钟,以保留天然的脆甜口感。配上糖渍柳橙,这道菜立刻明亮 起来,浸透的酱汁恰与磨碎的日本红萝卜、细香葱相互辉映,显得异 常吸引。

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Spanish Octopus 西班牙章鱼

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The restaurant’s shipment of Spanish octopus arrives, as is typical, pre-tenderized. In days gone by, and occasionally still today along the Mediterranean coast, fishermen beat their catch of cephalopods repeatedly against the rocks at the edge of the sea. But nowadays they are more likely to be machine-tumbled in sea salt and ice water until the muscles tighten and the tentacles curl together like flower blossoms. At Serge et le Phoque, Chew first boils and then lightly grills the octopus before plating it with a century egg from the Wanchai market, Peruvian aji amarillo sauce, fresh Japanese tobiko (roe of the flying fish) with pickled ginger, and a garnish of dried oregano and red-veined sorrel. 一如往常,送到餐厅的章鱼已先经嫩化处理。很久以前,甚至今日某些地中海沿岸地区,渔夫会先抓起章鱼不停甩向海边岩石,反 覆拍击。不过现在大多数做法都只把章鱼放进装满海盐冰水的机器内翻甩,直到肉质变硬,触手蜷缩如花朵盛开。在 Serge et le

Phoque,主厨先把章鱼扔进热水煮,略烤片刻,盘底放上湾仔街市买来的松花皮蛋、秘鲁黄椒酱,新鲜的日本飞鱼子,腌生姜,少 许干牛至和红酸模叶,就大功告成了。

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中菜流派 各有千秋

delectably regional Among Melco Crown Entertainment’s impressive array of restaurants offering premium Chinese cuisine are three standouts with a regional focus. Bi Ying at Studio City offers the best of both northern and southern influences, while Jin Ying at City of Dreams puts the accent on Cantonese. Altira’s Monsoon adds a whole new dimension with its Chiu Chow favorites. But all three converge on choice ingredients, regional authenticity, and classic style.

↑ Tai Yin Bun, Executive Chef of Casino Outlets, City of Dreams 澳门新濠天地赌场餐厅行政总厨戴彦彬

新濠博亚娱乐旗下有一系列让人惊艳的顶级中 餐厅,其中备受瞩目的三家分别是巧妙融合南

北风味的新濠影汇碧迎居、坚守广东菜系本色

“Yunnan Style” Geoduck Clam with Handmade Noodle in Rich Seafood Broth

的新濠天地金映阁、还有为潮州菜揭开崭新风

过桥皇帝蚌配刀切面

貌的新濠锋季风。三家名店分别展现其派别风 味之长,各有千秋,但在食材的挑选、道地

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DAVID HARTUNG (6)

口味的坚持和延续传统上他们有志一同。


↑ Chiu Chow Style Stewed Hawaiian Papaya with Bamboo Shrimps and Minced Pork 长寿瓜煮围虾 ↓ Lee Pang Yee, Chef de Cuisine at Monsoon at Altira Macau 澳门新濠锋季风餐厅主厨李鹏儿

↑ Chef Bin Sun, Chef de Cuisine at Bi Ying at Studio City, Macau 澳门新濠影汇碧迎居餐厅主厨孙国斌 ↓ Barbecued Honey Glazed Iberico Pork 蜜味西班牙黑豚叉烧


PRESENTED BY STUDIO CITY MACAU

STUDIO CITY

BI YING 碧迎居,新濠影汇 “There’s a definite contrast between the foods of the north and the south,” says Chef Bin Sun, Chef de Cuisine at Bi Ying at Studio City, Macau. “Guangdong in the south is hot and humid, so Cantonese cuisine tends to lean towards light and open flavors. Sichuan and Hunan in the north have a wetter climate, and there complexity and spice become important elements in the food.” Bi Ying brings northern and southern flavors together, serving the highly seasoned provincial dishes alongside Cantonese favorites. “Each cuisine has its strengths – we take the best of both and unite their ingredients and cooking techniques.” Sun, who has been with Bi Ying since its opening in October of last year, has honed his experienced command of both culinary approaches during a career of over twenty years. His satisfaction comes from bringing an innovative variety to his menus, but always within a context of authenticity. He and his team have worked to create a number of one-of-a-kind dishes without compromising on the cream of the classics. Another of Bi Ying’s distinctions, beyond its emphasis on traditional cooking methods, is an insistence on top-tier ingredients. A case in point is the restaurant’s barbecued honey-glazed iberico pork skewer with pineapple. All iberico pork is not created equal, the chef explains, and he demands the best to be found in Spain. The northern-style roasted beef short ribs with spicy dip is made with US prime beef. And his Sichuan-style poached wagyu beef in chili oil is sourced from the finest raised in Australia. In each of these dishes the chef achieves a sophisticated balance between the foundation flavors of the premium meat and the nuanced notes of the seasonings. Sun’s greatest pleasure, perhaps, comes from the fact that for many guests his dishes evoke a warm nostalgia. “We want to remind them of home – to make the kind of food that brings them back time and time again.”

「中式南北菜系之间有一条明显的分野。 」澳门新

濠影汇碧迎居餐厅主厨孙国斌说, 「在南边的广东 气候湿热,所以粤菜崇尚清淡,好让胃口大开 ;

“Sichuan Style” Stir-Fried Spicy Baby Lobster

而北部的四川和湖南气候湿冷,因此繁复的料理

川式鲜椒小龙虾

程序和多种辛香料的混合使用是川湘菜烹调的重 点。 」 碧迎居巧妙融汇南北口味,将北方菜的丰富 调味加入粤菜中。孙主厨说 : 「每个菜系都有它的

← Monk Jump Over the Wall 御品佛跳墙

强项-我们取其大成,在食材和技术上成为一体。 」 去年十月份开幕就加入碧迎居的孙师傅,在 超过二十年的厨师生涯中致力结合南北菜之长, 自成一派。他最自豪的在于将不失原味的传统菜 式加入多元的创意元素,呈现在他的菜单上。他 和团队不断创作出许多别出心裁的菜式,但始终 没有偏离传统。 另一个碧迎居的独到之处,除了强调传统烹 调技术外,它还坚持采用顶级的食材。如市面上 西班牙的伊比利黑毛猪在品质上参差不齐,而碧 迎居的蜜味西班牙黑豚叉烧波罗串,其用的是当 中等级最高的。蒙古酱烧牛肋骨用的是顶级美国 牛肉,老四川水煮和牛的牛肉来自澳洲。不论是 哪一道菜孙师傅都能让新颖的食材和遵循古法的 调味达到最佳平衡。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

孙主厨最愉快的,莫过于看到顾客因为他的 菜式回想起过去的美好时光,他说 : 「我们想要唤 起他们的思乡之情,就像回到家的怀抱一样。 」

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↑ Lychee-Wood-Roasted Pipa Duck 古法酱烧琵琶鸭 → Double Boiled Chicken Soup with Fresh Ginseng 鲜人参花胶汽锅鸡汤

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The glass panels of Jin Ying’s spacious show kitchen line a corridor at the City of Dreams complex in Macau. They lead enticingly toward the restaurant’s entrance, all the while showcasing a team of chefs hard at work at their stations: dim sum, siu mei, noodles – and at the woodfired oven where Jin Ying’s signature pipa duck is roasted. But the kitchen is for much more than mere show. “We focus on quality products and meticulous technique,” says Tai Yin Bun, Executive Chef of Casino Outlets, City of Dreams. “Patrons who view our kitchen can be confident that everything they order will be expertly prepared and beautifully presented.” Hearty seafood dishes featuring seasonal produce are among Jin Ying’s many regional classics, as well as perennial noodle, rice, and dim sum favorites. “A lot of restaurants are serving fusion food,” says Tai, “but our clientele comes from all over the world and they’re looking for something real . We’ve decided to focus on creating authentic dishes made by traditional methods. We spend time talking to our customers to find out exactly what they’re after.” A lot of them, apparently, are after Jin Ying’s famous seafood; particularly popular is the geoduck noodle soup. Since geoduck is often served raw, the unusual pairing can take guests by surprise. But it’s that kind of originality in approach that continues to surprise and delight diners at Jin Ying. In sourcing ingredients, the restaurant maintains its finicky standards. “Our wagyu beef comes from Australia,” explains Tai, “and the geoduck is imported from Canada. Our char siu is made with the meat of the black Iberian pig from Spain. We’ve got a team checking our supplies when they come in, and if anything isn’t up to par, we’ll simply reject the whole lot. Jin Ying has a very straightforward philosophy: we believe in creating extraordinary food that looks simple only because so much has gone into making it.”

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY CITY OF DREAMS, MACAU


CITY OF DREAMS

JIN YING 金映阁,新濠天地 澳门新濠天地新濠大道的长廊一侧是金映阁,宽敞的玻璃窗展 示著开放式厨房,厨师和团队在工作站专心料理的情况清楚可 见 :不论是制作点心、烧卖、面线,还是在烤炉里以木柴熏烤

『正宗』的味道。因此我们决定坚守传统,呈现最道地的口味, 带着客人找出他们寻寻觅觅的滋味。 」 显而易见,金映阁的海鲜菜让许多客人慕名而来,其中

的招牌古法酱烧琵琶鸭,道道均引人入胜,客人不自觉就走到

最受欢迎的是过桥皇帝蚌配刀切面。皇帝蚌通常是直接生食,

了餐厅入口。

而这别出新裁的搭配成功掳获客人的心,但这其实只是金映阁

开放式厨房的设计可不是为了哗众取宠。 「我们非常重视

带给客人惊喜和满足的一小部分。

料理品质,绝不轻易在细节上妥协。 」澳门新濠天地赌场餐厅

对于食材的挑选,金映阁非常严谨。 「我们选用来自澳洲

行政总厨戴彦彬师傅说, 「客人看到我们在厨房工作的情形后

的和牛。 」戴师傅解释着, 「皇帝蚌是从加拿大进口,而叉烧是

能完全放心,因为送到餐桌上的菜会像看到的一样尽善尽美。 」

用来自西班牙伊比利的黑豚肉。我们有专业的团队为品质把关,

时令而种类丰富的海鲜是金映阁经典菜式不可缺少的食

所有的进货只要发现有任何未达标准的,就会整批退回。金映

材,还有各式各样的点心和特色饭面。 「许多餐厅都走向多国

阁的哲学很明确 :我们深信每一口朴实美味之下,都蕴含着日

料理。 」戴师傅说, 「但来自世界各地的客人,他们想要的只是

积月累的经验和工法。 」


P R E S E N T E D B Y A LT I R A M A C A U

A LT I R A

MONSOON 季风,新濠锋

Lee Pang Yee, Chef de Cuisine at Monsoon at Altira Macau, comes from a coastal town in Chiu Chow, where he grew up on his mother’s authentic home cooking. “The people there are known for hospitality, calmness, and devotion,” he says, and he believes it was this simple way of life in his formative years that inspired his career path. He has worked at some of the most renowned Chiu Chow restaurants in Hong Kong over the past forty years before taking charge at Monsoon in 2011. “Monsoon exemplifies the best of Lingnan culture, and our aim is to take Chiu Chow cuisine to the next level,” he says. The style has been developing over the past few

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decades, and Lee’s extensive background in the region’s food, combined with the restaurant’s flexibility in adapting to customers’ tastes, means that he is able to stay on the leading edge of what Chiu Chow cuisine has to offer. The area’s rich abundance of seafood often puts it center stage on Monsoon’s menu in such classic dishes as baby oyster omelet, a favorite with diners. “We have a very professional team that works together beautifully to set our high standards for food and service,” says Lee. “Chiu Chow cuisine is all about quality and freshness in ingredients and delicacy and finesse in technique. We intend to remain true what makes our food unique.”


澳门新濠锋季风餐厅主厨李鹏儿,来自南部沿海小城潮州, 从小吃着母亲的家常菜长大。 「我家乡的人非常好客、恬静, 而且真诚。 」他这么说。他深信这样单纯的生活方式在成长过 程中能潜移默化,成为他后来从事菜色创作的灵感来源。在

2011 年加入新濠锋之前,他在许多香港著名的潮州菜餐厅工 作过,职业生涯长达四十年。

Chiu Chow Platter (left to right): Sautéed Scallop with Red Chili and Garlic / Deep-fried Breaded Squid Ball / Steamed Prawn Paste-stuffed Mushrooms / Marinated Sliced Duck and Bean Curd 锦绣四喜(油泡带子、炸花球丸、 酿金钱菇、卥水鸭片拼豆腐)

「季风想要成为岭南文化的最佳典范,我们的目标是将 潮州菜领向新的里程碑。 」他说。潮州菜风格在过去几十年间 DAVID HARTUNG

已臻至成熟,而李师傅对于家乡菜的熟悉,结合他在餐饮业

「我们有专业的团队,一起为了美食和服务树立超高标

多年的经验,不断调整口味以配合客人的喜好,让他成为潮

准。 」主厨说, 「潮州菜没有别的, 就是品质、 新鲜、 精致和技巧,

州菜的先锋,引领风骚。沿海地带丰富的海产成为季风菜单

缺一不可。而我们的与众不同在于我们不花俏,忠实呈现食

上的主角,煎蚝仔烙是客人喜欢的潮州名菜之一。

材的原风味。 」

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PRESENTED BY VIGNE VECCHIE ITALIAN FOOD

不只是创意

raising the antipasto bar A chef’s visionary use of artisanal products takes pasta in a whole new direction.

GUESTS AT ISOLA won’t find his insalata di pasta a tubo (pasta salad rolls) on the menu just yet, but Executive Chef Omar Agostini has his ingredients at hand and his imagination at work, and it doesn’t take much to coax him to share a preview of what he plans to bring to the restaurant in the near future. In fact, big changes have been afoot at Isola for a year and a half, ever since Agostini took over the kitchen at the classic Italian bar and grill in the IFC Mall, with additional overseas involvement from Michelin two-star chef Marco Sacco. “Isola has been a favorite in Hong Kong for eleven years now,” says Agostini, “and we don’t plan to go overnight from fettuccine Alfredo to pasta salad rolls. But the direction we’re moving in is toward chicer and more contemporary presentations without losing the classic flavors and feelings.” One of the first steps he took was to raise

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the standard of products used in the kitchen. Besides sourcing higher quality fresh ingredients, Agostini discovered that an authentic taste of his southern Italian roots was available in Hong Kong in the Vigne Vecchie line of antipasto products. “Everything is natural and handmade by farmers and artisans,” he says. “As an Italian chef, I’m proud to use them. At home, we might simply pour them into a bowl and put them in an antipasto buffet, but in a restaurant of this caliber, we have the technical skills to do some amazing things with top-tier products like these.” To prepare his pasta salad rolls, Agostini cooks spaghetti al dente, just to the point that it has the right amount of surface starch. He works a bit of olive oil into each strand and lines them up one by one to form a single “sheet” of noodles. Next, he spreads a thin layer of forcemeat over the spaghetti to help it bind together. After rolling and cutting

the pasta into hollow tubes, he briefly bakes them in the oven to set the shape. All that remains is stuffing and garnishing the rolls with glorified classic pasta-salad combinations: pickled broccoli rabe with caviar; prawns tartare with black celline olives; eggplant and mozzarella stuffing, topped with caper spread and smoked anchovies; fontina and taleggio cheeses with black olive pâté, topped with anchovy “pearls”; and a Greek salad stuffing of cucumber, sundried tomatoes, pine nuts and feta cheese, topped with black truffle “caviar.” Agostini is well aware that once he unleashes his creation, Isola’s antipasto bar will never be the same: “I fully intend to be on the leading edge of the evolution of modern Italian antipasti.” Visit Vigne Vecchie on Level 2 of Pacific Place in early May 2016.

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Executive Chef Omar Agostini


A modern antipasto board of pasta salad rolls, savory cannoli, and cold timballo 创意前菜盘:意粉沙拉卷, 咸香卡諾里卷,冷千层面

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现在想走的是变得更时髦的路线,用更当代 的呈现手法,同时保留传统风味与氛围。 」 第一步是提升食材。除了找寻优质的 新 鲜 食 材 外,Omar 发 现 香 港 Vigne Vecchie 品牌的开胃菜系列产品竟然找得到来 自他南意故乡的正宗口味。 他说 : 「每样产品都是由农夫和工匠生 产,纯天然。身为意籍厨师,能使用这些 材料,我感到很骄傲。若是在家乡,我们 只会把食材全倒进一个碗里,直接陈列在 自助开胃菜台上,但在这种高水准的餐厅, 我们用巧手神工来料理这些上乘食材。」

要制作通心粉沙拉卷,Omar 会先煮出 嚼劲十足的意面,不过熟,保留刚刚好的 表面淀粉量,滴上些许橄榄油,让其与面 条充分渗透混合,再将面一根根排列起来, 形成一张面条组成的「面皮」。继而将一层 肉馅薄薄地铺开在面条上,让面条之间黏 得更紧。随后卷起意面,切成空心管状, 放进烤箱里烘一小段时间以定型。 最后则剩下填充馅料和装饰沙拉卷的 步骤了。他选用的装饰物是早已发扬光大 的经典通心粉沙拉组合,包括腌渍球花甘 蓝佐鱼子酱 ;鞑靼鲜虾佐油渍橄榄 ;撒上

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

尽管目前在 Isola 的菜单上还看不到 insalata di pasta a tubo(通心粉沙拉卷)这道料理,但 行政总厨 Omar Agostini 早已为其准备好食材, 随时发挥创意、大展身手,他亦不吝于大方 分享即将推出的新菜式,让宾客抢先一窥究 竟。事实上,如此大转变已在 Isola 酝酿了一 年半,从 Omar 在这家位于国际金融中心的 经典意菜餐厅掌厨就开始,还有米其林二星 大厨 Marco Sacco 跨海拔刀相助。Omar 表示: 「过去十一年,Isola 向来是香港最受欢迎的 餐厅之一。我们不打算一夕之间从传统的白 酱意式宽面转变到新颖的通心粉沙拉卷,但


PRESENTED BY

QUALITY FOOD AS A LIFESTYLE

PANTONE 7530 C

PANTONE 7530 PC (CMYK 10 18 25 32)

PANTONE 411 C

Pasta Salad Rolls 意粉沙拉卷

Chef Agostini brings his imagination to bear on the humble pasta salad, transforming it into savory tubes of edible art. Delicate rolls of spaghetti are filled with traditional and innovative antipasto combinations that feature premium Vigne Vecchie ingredients.

PASTA ROLLS 1 kg spaghetti (Martelli brand) 100 g shrimp 20 dL cream salt

Vigne Vecchie products are handmade following ancient traditions and recipes Vigne Vecchie 产品跟随古 老传统和食谱手工制作而成

1. Purée the shrimp in a food processor. 2. Whirl in the cream and add salt to taste. 3. Pass the mousse through a sieve and chill in the fridge. 4. Cook the spaghetti 8 to 9 min. in boiling salted water. 5. Drain it, toss with a little olive oil, and spread it out to cool. 6. Form pasta sheets by lining up groups of 30 strands side by side on silicone paper. 7. Spread a thin layer of mousse over the sheets to bind them together. 8. Form sheets into rolls around an aluminum tube, trimming any excess. 9. Steam rolls for about 2 minutes and allow to cool. 10. Brush them with Vigne Vecchie olive oil. 1 公斤 Martelli牌意大利粉 100 克 虾子 200 毫升 奶油 盐

酸豆和烟熏 鯷 鱼的茄子拌莫札瑞拉起司内 馅 ;摆上 鯷 鱼「珍珠」的芳提娜起司和塔 雷吉欧起司佐黑橄榄酱 ;以及小黄瓜、日 晒蕃茄干、松子、菲达起司,最后撒上黑 松露「鱼子酱」的希腊沙拉填充馅。 Omar 很清楚,一旦他将这番创意公诸 Isola 的开胃菜将再也不同于以往: 于世, 「我 要引领现代意式开胃菜的演变,站在浪潮 的最前端。」 Vigne Vecchie 分店 將 于本年 5 月在太古广 场 2 樓开幕,候驾光临。

虾子放入食物处理器搅成泥。 加入奶油充分搅拌,加盐调味。 过筛后放入冰箱冷藏。 意大利粉放入沸腾盐水中煮8至9分钟。 沥干后洒上少许橄榄油,摊开放冷。 意大利粉置于矽箔纸上,30根排成一 组。 7. 涂上薄层馅料增加黏度。 8. 以铝棒杆成筒状,两端切齐。 9. 意粉卷蒸2分钟后静置冷却。 10. 涂上Vigne Vecchie 橄榄油即可上桌。 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

BROCCOLI RABE PUGLIESI AND BLACK TRUFFLE “CAVIAR”

FILLING 20 g Broccoli Rabe Pugliesi (Vigne Vecchie brand) 2 g romaine lettuce 3 g mayonnaise black truffle “caviar”

1. Cut the prepared broccoli rabe into small pieces. 2. Wash the romaine and julienne it. 3. Mix the ingredients with the mayonnaise. 4. Stuff the pasta rolls. 5. Garnish with the “caviar.” 20克 Vigne Vecchie牌Puglia风味甘蓝菜苗 2克 萝蔓莴苣 3克 美乃滋 黑松露「鱼子酱」

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

甘蓝菜苗切小片备用。 萝蔓莴苣洗净后切丝。 倒入美乃滋均匀混和。 镶入意粉卷中。 缀上「鱼子酱」。

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PANTONE 411 PC (CMYK 27 39 30 70)


酒心萃取

making the cut

Amaury Firino Martell


母WINE MASTER

Amaury Firino Martell, a descendant of the legendary Jean Martell, speaks with Mamie Chen about carrying on a heritage that stretches back nine generations.  §  Amaury Firino Martell来自充满传奇色彩的 Jean Martell马爹利家族,这次特别接

受 Mamie Chen 专访,畅谈品牌延续 九个世代的丰富传统。 What is your current relationship with Martell House? Our family sold the company in 1987 and now it is owned by Pernod Ricard. My father kept the family vineyard where we carry on growing grapes and distilling eau de vie, much of which is sold to Martell House. So the family connection continues and I am happy to help promote Martell House in Greater China for Le Cercle events and product launches like the limited edition La French Touch by Martell. It has been fascinating to see how people here enjoy Cognac, especially pairing it with food.

DAVID HARTUNG, COURTESY OF MARTELL HOUSE

Are you more a winemaker or a distiller? All aspects are very important, and I love them all. You must have good vines to grow good grapes, good grapes to ferment good wine, good wine to distill good eau de vie, and good eau de vie to age good Cognac. But the most important part is the distillation, where I can determine the quality of the eau de vie. First we distill the wine in the pot stills to produce the brouillis. Then we return the brouillis to the stills for a second distillation called la bonne chauffe. From this we get the tête (head), the coeur (heart), and the secondes (seconds). The coeur is the eau de vie that goes in the oak barrel. Where you cut the coeur from the secondes is the most important decision – you separate what you want from what you don’t want. Could you tell us about the Cognac that you’re producing yourself? The 12/12/12 à 12h12 was a personal project just for fun to see if I could complete the double distillation and separate the coeur from the secondes for all three pot stills at exactly 12:12pm on 12/12/12. The Cognac is now aging well in five barrels. I taste them every year on the 12th of December, and I’ll decide to do with it in 2024.

The Firino Martell family vineyard 马爹利家族葡萄园

您们目前与马爹利酒庄的关系为何? 家 族 于 1987 年 将 公 司 变 卖, 后 由 Pernod Ricard 集团收购所有。父亲保留了 家族庄园并继续栽种葡萄,蒸馏制作烧酒, 或称生命之水 (eau de vie),其中绝大部分 由马爹利酒庄购回,家族连系因此得以延 续。我目前也在协助马爹利大中华地区, 为 Le Cercle 的活动及如马爹利限量版干邑 La French Touch 的产品发布会做推广。每 当看到这里的客人在品尝欣赏干邑酒,特 别是和餐点搭配享用,我真的很有成就感。 您会将自己归为酿酒商或调配师? 酿酒过程中各个面向都是关键环节。 葡萄藤够好种出来的葡萄品质才好、好的 葡萄经发酵才能制成好酒、好酒经蒸馏后 才产出生命之水,而生命之水经熟成后才 能造就一流的干邑。其中蒸馏绝对是关键

所在,也是决定烈酒品质的重要步骤。原 酒放入蒸馏器中初次蒸馏后制出初蒸酒 (brouillis),后将初蒸酒放入蒸馏器进行二 次 蒸 馏, 获 得 双 蒸 酒 (la bonne chauffe), 此一步骤可得酒头 (tête)、酒心 (coeur) 及 酒脚 (secondes),我们只取酒心,它是清澈 透明的生命之水,用来置入橡木桶中熟成。 从酒尾中萃取酒心需要纯熟技艺,要将欲 取得及舍去的部分完美分离。

介绍一下您自制的干邑酒。 12/12/12 à 12h12 是个有趣的个人实验 计画,测试我能否在 2012 年 12 月 12 日中 午 12 点 12 分整完成二次蒸馏,从三个蒸 馏器中的酒尾中萃取出酒心。取出的干邑 纯酒目前分置于五个酒桶,熟成良好。每 年的 12 月 12 日我都会试酒尝味道,等到 2024 年开封,再决定如何推出市场。 free spirits

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皮埃蒙特的宝藏

the pleasures of piemonte

Viberti Barolo Buon Padre 2011

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EVERYONE KNOWS PIEMONTE as the home of truffles, but even erudite eaters often overlook several of the region’s gastronomic gems. And while the classic twins of Barolo and Barbaresco are synonymous with Piemonte, many of its vinous riches remain known only to the very local or the very geeky. To capture a true gustatory snapshot of today’s Piemonte, we recently caught up with a group of the region’s new-wave winemakers and chefs, who were in Hong Kong to promote what may seem an unassuming morsel, the hazelnut. But it receives full star treatment in the Piemontese celebration La Nocciola in Tavola, which was being held in Asia for the first time. “Everybody thinks of Nutella,” says chef Damiano Nigro of Relais Villa d’Amelia near Alba. “But there are so many ways to use hazelnuts – crusts, pastes, pressed for oil as precious as extra virgin olive oil.” Andrea Delzanno, Chef de Cuisine of Cucina at Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, speculates that Piemonte’s unique hazelnut cultivar, Tonda Gentile Trilobata, may one day be as prized as the rare white truffle. One of the hazelnut’s strong suits is that it matches well with Piemonte’s broad range of wines, from sparkling rosé to aromatized Chinato. Each of the producers has his own take on what’s going on with Piemontese wines, but a few common themes emerge. This generation, challenging the

意大利皮埃蒙特区 (Piemonte) 虽以松露之 乡闻名,但尚有许多美馔连老饕都不曾领 略。即使经典酒款巴罗洛 (Barolo) 及芭芭 莱斯科 (Barbaresco) 葡萄酒早已成为此地的 代名词,尚有许多美酒佳酿只有当地人和 酒迷才知道。 为了一窥皮埃蒙特的美食世界,我们 特意造访了一群从该地远道而来的酿酒师和 厨师新秀。令人意外的是,他们来香港宣传 的竟是不甚起眼的榛果。在这场全亚洲首次 举办的皮埃蒙特式美食飨宴 La Nocciola in Tavola 中,榛果可说是全场瞩目的焦点。 来 自 阿 尔 巴 (Alba) 附 近 Relais Villa d’Amelia 酒店的大厨 Damiano Nigro 说道 : 「说起榛果大家都只知道能多益 (Nutella), 然而榛果在料理上有五花八门的用途,可 以压成碎粒、做成酱、榨成榛果油,而且 品质媲美特级初榨橄榄油。」马哥孛罗香港 酒店 Cucina 意式餐厅主厨 Andrea Delzanno 则预测皮埃蒙特独有的榛果品种 Tonda Gentile Trilobata 日后可能获得与稀有的白 松露同样崇高的评价。 榛果的特点在于它容易搭配皮埃蒙特 产出的各种佳酿,从气泡玫瑰红葡萄酒到 奎宁香料葡萄酒 (Chinato) 都恰到好处。酒 商对皮埃蒙特酒的发展拥有不同的见解, 但有几个现象却是大家的共识。有鉴于前 些年酿造的红酒带有太过浓呛的橡木味, 新一代酿酒师坚持选用当地的葡萄品种, 并采限量酿造,把此地的红酒推上最荣耀 的舞台。 皮埃蒙特区阿尔拖 (Alto) 高低起伏的 火山地形是出产稀有葡萄品种的宝地,此

COURTESY OF PIEMONTE ( WINE), DAVID HARTUNG (PORTRAITS)

Sarah Heller takes a contemporary look at a region of Italy that seems almost unfairly blessed with treasures of table and cellar.


WINE MASTERS

Pietro Cassina of Pietro Cassina, Claudio Viberti of Viberti Giovanni and Franco Penna of Cascina Barisel


↑↑ Handmade tagliolini with Boston lobster, paired with Castello di Verduno “Basadone” Verduno DOC 2013, made from Pelaverga Piccolo 波士顿龙虾配自家制蛋面 ↑ Roasted sea bass with artichoke, spring onion and black truffle, paired with Pietro Cassina “Tanzo” Lessona DOC 2010, made from Nebbiolo 焗鲈鱼配黑松露

↑ Scorpion fish ravioli, bouillabaisse style, paired with Pietro Cassina “Nivis” Coste della Sesia Bianco DOC 2014, made from Erbaluce 海龙皇汤配石头鱼意大利云吞 → Veal with hazelnut, paired with Viberti Giovanni Dolcetto d’Alba Superiore DOCG 2013 薄牛仔片配榛子酱


DAVID HARTUNG (5)

WINE MASTERS

region’s over-ambitious, oak-laden recent past, seems hooked on local grape varieties and the kind of restrained winemaking that lets them shine. A rich hunting ground for rare grapes is Alto Piemonte, where hostile volcanic terrain yields wines of improbable lightness and perfume. Pietro Cassina tells how, after his family’s return to their ancestral homeland from the U.S., he “rescued” Vespolina, a grape usually buried in blends with Nebbiolo. Solo – and coddled with eighteen months in Swiss/Austrian oak – Vespolina proves a peppery jewel. Another grape worth seeking out is Pelaverga, grown primarily in Verduno, Barolo’s northernmost commune. Its pale, spicy sensuality is redolent of Pinot Noir. Castello di Verduno, the rare overachiever outside the big five communes of Barolo, naturally speaks Barolo too, but perhaps with a faint Pelavergan accent. Even the classics are getting a “makeunder.” Claudio Viberti’s family estate is part of the Barolo di Barolo movement that promotes Barolo from the village in the heart of the region that actually bears the name. His work has involved reinterpreting the traditional winemaking for a “more vibrant, fresher profile.” And then there is Franco Penna (“Mr. Moscato”) of Cascina Barisel, whose wine style is too famous for its own good. Moscato d’Asti, once merely an exquisite fizz without which no Piemontese meal was officially finished, is now such a commercial juggernaut that Penna says his challenge is getting serious wine lovers to even taste his version. The limestone soils and kid-glove handling that Penna lavishes on his grapes yield a sparkler so pure it can actually age several years, something no generic one is likely to do. For a country that loves its superlatives, one word that never punctuates our discussions is “best.” It seems today’s Piemonte has turned toward more nuanced concepts like “diversity” and “purity” and “authenticity” – the subtle creaminess of a toasted hazelnut over the bold perfume of a white truffle.

Castello di Verduno ‘Basadone’ Verduno DOC 2013, made from Pelaverga Piccolo

地佳酿有让人难以置信的轻盈酒体与香气。 Pietro Cassina 向我们诉说他当年举家从美 国搬回故乡沃土后,是如何「拯救」了维 斯琳娜葡萄 (Vespolina),此种品种大多与 内比奥罗 (Nebbiolo) 葡萄混酿,不受瞩目。 但事实证明采用维斯琳娜葡萄酿造的单一 品种酒,置于瑞士或奥地利橡木桶中陈放 18 个月后会变成略带胡椒味的琼浆玉液。 皮拉维加 (Pelaverga) 葡萄也值得一提, 此种葡萄主要生长于巴罗洛最北端的市镇 韦尔杜诺 (Verduno),微微的香料味与黑皮 诺葡萄 (Pinot Noir) 极为相似。位于巴罗洛 区五大市镇之外的 Castello di Verduno 是罕 见的优质酒庄,酿造的巴罗落红酒带有一 点皮拉维加葡萄的风味。 就连经典酒款都开始力求「反璞归真」。 Claudio Viberti 的 家 族 酒 庄 曾 是 Barolo di Barolo 运动的一环,在座落于巴罗洛地区

中心的村庄酿造巴罗洛酒。Claudio Viberti 重新诠释传统酿法,试图创造「更新鲜、 活跃的口感」。 Cascina Barisel 酒 庄 的 Franco Penna 有 蜜思嘉葡萄酒先生 (Mr. Moscato) 之称,但 他酿造的葡萄酒风格太过著名,使他反受其 害。蜜思嘉葡萄酒原本只是皮埃蒙特当地人 餐桌上常见的精致气泡酒,现在俨然成为全 球热门的产品。肥沃的石灰岩土壤及 Penna 对葡萄无微不至的细心栽培,造就了此款气 泡酒的极致甘醇,甚至可以陈放数年,这是 一般蜜思嘉葡萄酒无可比拟的。 这个国家的人虽总爱追求最高品质, 却总是不提「最好」两字。看来现今的皮 埃蒙特已经转而追求更精致的标准,包括 「多样性」、「纯度」以及「正宗程度」。比 起白松露强烈浓郁的香气,他们更喜爱烤 榛果那淡淡细腻的香醇。 free spirits

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当传统遇上高科技

tradition meets technology ARKADIUSZ RYBAK, the man who now oversees both bars at Hong Kong’s renowned Zuma, has traveled the world throughout his career, storing up inspiration each step of the way for his award-winning concoctions. His résumé boasts an impressive collection of venues, and he acknowledges that at every stage he has continued to learn by acquiring new techniques and technologies and by gaining exposure to exotic and unusual ingredients. After holding positions in his native Poland and on the Greek island of Corfu,

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掌 管 香 港 知 名 酒 吧 Zuma 的 Arkadiusz Rybak,曾为了工作踏遍世界各地,他 在旅途中不断汲取灵感,最终调制出获 奖无数的调酒。丰富的履历在在显示他 在知名餐厅的历练,也因此他深知无论 在任何阶段,都必须学习新技巧与技术, 需多方尝试与了解异国和特殊食材,不 断精进自己。 在家乡波兰和希腊小岛科孚岛执业 后,他到了位在巴黎,享负盛名的奢华 餐厅 Lenôtre 工作,这也是他曾为前法 国 总 统 雅 克 · 希 拉 克 准 备 晚 宴 的 地 方。 接下来,他到英国坦布里奇韦尔斯,在

Richard Phillips 主 理 的 Thackeray’s 餐 厅 工作。他说 : 「Richard 教我真空低温烹 煮法,以及注重自家食材的重要性,当 你苦恼于总是需要为买来的食物调味时, 何不干脆自己做?」 在 Danesfield House 的期间,他为 Adam Simmonds 工作。回想起那段时光: 「当时我经营五个酒吧,要求就是不断追 求 更 高 的 标 准。Adam 总 是 告 诉 我, 只 有保持一致才是成功的关键。」最后,在 Heston Blumenthal 开设了结合古怪与创 新的分子艺术殿堂 –– The Fat Duck 肥鸭 餐厅,他的美梦终于成真了。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

One of Hong Kong’s top bartenders combines premium classic spirits and high-tech methods to make drinks that make waves.


The Hanami with its delicate sakura blossom


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Arkadiusz’ pencil sketches

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

he moved to Paris to work at the celebrated luxury caterer Lenôtre, where he once helped prepare a dinner for President Jacques Chirac. Rybak next spent time in England, notably under Richard Phillips at Thackeray’s in Tunbridge Wells. “Richard showed me new flavors and sous vide techniques,” he says, “and the importance of focusing on homemade ingredients – if you buy something, you always have to adjust the flavors, so why not make it yourself?” At Danesfield House he worked under Adam Simmonds. “I was running five bars, and the demand was always for higher and higher standards,” recalls Rybak. “Adam simply showed me that consistency is the key to success.” Finally, a dream came true with his stint at legendary The Fat Duck, Heston Blumenthal’s shrine to bizarre and brilliant innovation. Back at Zuma, Rybak takes this rich tapestry of experience and weaves his own unique stories, with tradition and technology the keywords. His role also entails development of Zuma’s bars across Asia, but it’s in Hong Kong that the group’s portfolio is most recognized, with Zuma HK recently named to the newly launched list of Asia’s 50 Best Bars.

Zuma is known for its globally influenced Japanese ethos and menu. Remarks Rybak, “We’re always looking for Japanese twists on drinks. For example our ice program means we make forty or fifty ice balls by hand every night, more than anywhere else in Hong Kong – it’s Japanese style with modern technique. Since the ice ball affects the dilution of a drink, you want ice that won’t dissolve too fast, simply cooling the drink, but melting super-slowly.” All his creations show this same characteristic attention to detail. Hanami is Japanese for “flower viewing,” most famously of cherry blossoms, sakura. It’s also the name of one of Rybak’s remarkable inventions that have started with a concept casually sketched with pencil and paper. “Drawing helps me to see the flavors in 3D,” he says, “to understand how each flavor reacts with the others.” The idea then goes through various stages of distillation, infusion, redistillation, and finessing before final presentation of the perfected drink. The process for Hanami begins by distilling Ketel One Vodka with a precious


回到 Zuma,Rybak 以其丰富历练为背 景,结合传统和创新科技编织出自己独特 的故事。他的角色代表着 Zuma 酒吧在亚 洲的发展,集团在香港的成就更是超卓可 见 ,香港 Zuma 最近更进榜亚洲最佳酒吧 50 强名单。 Zuma 以深受全球发展影响的日本风格 和菜单而闻名。Rybak 说道 : 「我们一直希 望在饮品中加入更多日本元素,例如每晚 手工打造 40 或 50 个冰球,数量远超过香 港其他酒吧,这就是以现代技术打造出的 日本风格。 因为冰球会影响饮品浓度的稀 释,你会想办法延长冰球融化时间,达到 让饮料降温的效果,进一步放缓稀释程度。」 所 有 创 作 的 酒 品 处 处 展 现 Rybak 注 重 细 节 的 特 性。 日 文 Hanami 是「 赏 花 」 的 意 思, 其 中 最 有 名 的 便 是 樱 花 ( 日 文 sakura)。这也是 Rybak 所调制的一款知名 酒品的名称。起初创作理念只是信手拈来 纸笔,随意描绘出来,他说 : 「素描让我看 见各种味道的具体形象,并了解之间如何 相互影响。」这个想法经过蒸馏、注入、再 次蒸馏以及纯化等各个阶段,最终让酒品 能完美呈现。 Rybak 的解释 : 「赏花」的制作过程是 先将 Ketel One 伏特加及珍贵的樱花萃取液 一起蒸馏。「Ketel One 带有乳脂般油滑的 特性、也较柔顺,味道不仅精致,也达到 口感平衡。」接着,他先从闷烤白米中制作 出清酒,再使用真空低温烹煮调酒。他把 调酒放在旋转蒸发器中再次蒸馏。旋转蒸 发器常用于化学实验室里,用来分离化合 物里溶剂的器具。Rybak 回忆 : 「我第一次 看到这个器具是在 The Fat Duck 餐厅的停 车场研究室里,Heston 使用过,而现在我 也使用它来蒸馏任何添加特殊材料的酒品, 这样做不仅可帮助提升前味,也去除苦味 和油味。」这独特的组合以白色苦艾酒和以 及柚子和芝麻调配而成的英国琴酒,最后 的呈现方式也很经典、简约,仅需以新鲜 绽开的樱花做为摆饰,即可衬托出这款美 丽又晶莹剔透的酒品。 对于如何调制出醉人又独特的马丁 尼,Rybak 也别有研究。「马丁尼通常都很 烈、很苦,所以我们想出用 low LBV 马丁 尼,从冰箱装盛直接放到酒杯的方式呈上。」 接着实验室器具再次派上用场,我们使用 旋转蒸发器来蒸馏和微调每杯饮料的酒精

The rotary evaporator 旋转蒸发仪 free spirits

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

PRESENTED BY DIAGEO RESERVE WORLD CLASS™

oil derived from the sakura blossom. “The Ketel One brings creaminess and softness,” explains Rybak. “It’s delicate and has real balance.” He then concocts a sake from roasted rice, before cooking both of them sous vide. He redistills the mixture in the rotovap, or rotary evaporator, a device usually found in a chemical lab that removes solvents from compounds. “I first saw one in the famous research shed in the car park of The Fat Duck,” Rybak recalls. “Heston used it, and I now use it to distill spirits with sensitive ingredients to enhance the top notes without bitterness or oiliness.” The unique combination is accompanied by white vermouth and a British craft gin with notes of yuzu and sesame. The presentation is simple and classic, the beautiful, crystal-clear drink topped with a tiny fresh sakura blossom. Rybak has also devoted attention to making martinis consistently excellent as well as unique. “Martinis are often too strong and bitter,” he says, “so we came up with low LBV martinis, served straight from the freezer to the glass.” Once again, laboratory equipment comes into play, both for distillation and to calibrate the alcohol content of each drink. His Mikan Martini is based upon Tanqueray London Dry Gin: “As the London-style dry gin, it provides the perfect botanics, as well as grapefruit and citrus notes alongside the juniper.” He cooks the gin sous vide with the mikan fruit, a Japanese tangerine, including the skin to impart its essential oils and a pleasing hint of bitterness. Blending and distilling it to make it perfectly clear, Rybak adds cilantro-infused vermouth to deliver the perfect counterpoint of freshness and spiciness. The LBV is reduced using a refractometer to ensure it meets the same level in every drink, and then it’s into the freezer. The end result? “You don’t feel any burn,” he smiles, “just the purity of the botanics from the Tanqueray and the flavors from Japan.”

The Mikan Martini

量。 他 的 Mikan Martini 则 是 以 添 加 伦 敦 Tanqueray Dry Gin 琴酒为基调 : 「因为伦敦 琴酒具有完美的杜松植物香气,以及淡淡 的葡萄柚和柑橘香味。」他以真空低温烹煮 琴酒和带皮的 mikan 蜜柑 ( 一种日本橘子 ), 好把果皮的天然油脂和一丝悦人的苦味给 抽离出来。 Rybak 将注入了芫荽风味的苦艾酒加

入酒品里,来达到清新和呛辣的对比,并 利用搅拌和蒸馏的方式,使其更加清透。 接着使用折射仪减少 LBV,确保每一杯饮 品都有相同的酒精量,再把它放入冰箱。 最后的结果是?他笑着回答 : 「在享用时, 你不会觉得有任何烧灼感,品尝到的只有 Tanqueray 琴酒所带出自然植物的纯净和日 本的风味。」 free spirits

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大伙儿的酒吧

anyone and everyone The only standalone bar on the Cotai Strip captures the spirit of Macau.

RICHARD LOUGHLIN may have come a long Richard Loughlin 走过漫漫长路,从南都柏 way from his origins in South Dublin to 林来到路 氹 金光大道。在亚洲工作一晃眼 reach the Cotai Strip, but even after decades 已数十载,却保有浓浓的软调爱尔兰口音, of living and working in Asia, he stubbornly 始 终 如 一。 他 是「The Roadhouse Macau」 retains his soft Irish lilt. Loughlin is part 酒吧共同拥有人及总经理,在许多奔放不 owner and general manager of The Road羁的公路骑士眼中,这间澳门最大独立酒 house Macau, the city’s biggest independent 吧代表的正是澳门特别行政区独有的自由 bar, one whose Easy Rider feel 精神理念。 BY perfectly expresses the free spirit 其他的先不说,「The RoadCHRIS DWYER ethos of the SAR. house」对澳门机车骑士而言有如 The Roadhouse is, among 精神堡垒一般,墙上陈列过往 PHOTOGRAPHY BY other things, spiritual home to 世界摩托车锦标赛 (MotoGP) 知 DAVID HARTUNG Macau’s bikers. Its walls are lined 名选手的安全帽及装备,三枪 with helmets and equipment (BSA) 及哈雷 (Harley) 重机的复 from iconic MotoGP riders of the past, along 古黑白照片也表框作为装饰,酒吧以两轮 with framed black-and-white photos of vin重机、而非四轮汽车为主轴不言可喻。店 tage BSAs and Harleys, leaving no doubt that 内怀旧收藏还包括知名摇滚乐团「滚石」 around here engines come on two wheels, 签名的吉他和拳击传奇阿里戴过的手套, not four. Also in the bar’s impressive mem非常值得一看。 orabilia collection are guitars signed by the Richard 以 赌 场 及 邮 轮 事 业 起 家,25 Rolling Stones and boxing gloves worn by 年前远渡重洋来到亚洲新加坡找工作,与 Muhammad Ali. 澳门的缘分始于 2004 年,以第 6 号员工 Loughlin’s career began on casino and 身份加入澳门银河赌场-至今总员工数已 cruise ships before he traveled to Asia 突破 2 万人。当时一边工作,他发现在澳 twenty-five years ago to find work in Singa门想找间好的酒吧-有个可以歇脚、放松, pore. His first job in Macau came in 2004 和朋友一起或独自享受优质餐点及现场音 when he was hired as employee number six 乐的地方似乎并非易事,因而萌生打造属 at the Galaxy Casino – there are now around 于自己酒吧的想法,一个他昵称为「总部」, twenty thousand. It was while working there 包含上述所有服务的地方 。 that he realized that a decent bar – just a 后来,随着酒吧主题尘埃落定,名称

Beef Haba Haba Burger

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Half Lady Love

place to sit and relax, with friends or alone, and definitely with good food and live music – was hard to come by in Macau. The idea was hatched to launch a place of his own that would deliver all this, a place he named Headquarters. In time, the bar’s theme evolved and its name was changed to The Roadhouse, reflecting Loughlin’s attachment to Americana and all forms of two-wheeled motorized transport. Unsurprisingly, The Roadhouse’s most popular season is during the Macau Motorcycle Grand Prix, when hundreds of fans crowd the pedestrianized street outside, taking each other’s photos beside the bar’s life-size models of Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, and the Blues Brothers. free spirits

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Three nights a week, it’s live rock and blues. 一星期三晩, 客人可在此欣赏现场摇滚和蓝调音乐 。

Live music is key to The Roadhouse experience, with rock and blues playing every Thursday through Saturday. The in-house band is frequently joined by international acts on tour. Bleu Rascals, winners of the 2013 Cotai Jazz and Blues Festival, have taken the stage in recent months, and the venue also taps into its sister property in Manila to snag that country’s top music stars. Another night might see acts like the Brat Pack or Ian Lofamia. The crowd is a real mix. “It’s anyone and everyone!” says Loughlin. “Tourists, locals, expats, casino workers at the end of their shift. We’re the only bar on the strip, so we get a great range of people.” As you might guess, among all the standout drinks and cocktails from experienced barman Patrick is one that Loughlin calls “the best pint of Guinness in Asia.” It’s a big claim, even coming from an Irishman,

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but the customers seem to agree that he’s absolutely right. “It’s the way we keep it,” he explains. “We use short pipes and clean them every single day.” The menu is big on sharing and such solid satisfactions as burgers and generous heaps of nachos and fries, perfect fuel for a long evening of drinking and fun. The food comes from the kitchen on the bar’s legendary wooden platters shaped like guitars. The Roadhouse offers free limo service to guests in Macau. Big sporting events are huge hits on its eight TVs. And of course there are special featured events on days named for saints like Valentine and Patrick. Sitting alongside restaurants, stores, and entertainment, The Roadhouse has found its independent niche in the relaxed vibe of the Broadway area. And Richard Loughlin too seems right at home in Macau, running a small Asian business with a big Irish heart.

也正式改为「The Roadhouse」,无处看不 到 Richard 对美洲及各式两轮交通工具的喜 爱。不难想像,澳门格兰披治摩托车大赛 期间正是酒吧一年生意最好的时候,数百 名机车迷将店外挤得人山人海,忙着和店 旁真人大小的玛丽莲梦露 (Marilyn Monroe )、 猫 王 (Elvis Presley) 及 蓝 调 兄 弟 (Blues Brothers) 等巨星人像拍照,十分热闹。 音乐也是「The Roadhouse」不可或缺 的一环,每周四到周六都有摇滚及蓝调乐 团现场演出。驻店乐团常与巡演至澳门的 国际知名团体合作,最近几个月由 2013 年 金 光 爵 士 及 蓝 调 音 乐 节 赢 家 Bleu Rascals 带来精彩表演。酒吧也与马尼拉姊妹店保 持密切关系,邀请当地一流音乐人来澳门 交流演出,其他主题夜也同样精彩,不乏 Brat Pack 或 Ian Lofamia 等重量级乐团登台。 「The Roadhouse」里各种人都有,就像 Richard 所形容: 「形形色色,想得到的都有! 有游客、当地人、外派人士或值完班来玩 的赌场工作人员。大道上只此一家酒吧,我 们可以碰到来自各行各业的客人。 」 一如所想,老经验酒保 Patrick 各式拿 手的饮料及调酒中,以 Guinness 健力士啤 酒最投 Richard 所好,盛赞是「亚洲最棒」 。 此话出自爱尔兰人口中,更是一大赞誉,酒 吧客人似乎也和他英雄所见略同。Richard 进一步说明 : 「保存方式正是关键就在,我 们用短管保存,每天都要清上一遍。 」 酒吧提供汉堡、大份量玉米片及薯条 等多种餐点供客人同桌分享,用来下酒欢 度长夜再适合不过。餐点现点于厨房现做, 盛在「The Roadhouse」招牌吉他形状木盘 上桌,每每成为目光焦点。 酒吧提供澳门当地客人免费接送服务, 平时也不会错过大型运动赛事,随时透过 店内八台电视转播,人声鼎沸 ;情人节及 圣派翠克节等重大节日当然也会举行特别 活动。座落于餐厅、商店及娱乐场所林立 的澳门百老汇,「The Roadhouse」以随性 风走出属于自己的一条路。Richard Loughlin 在澳门有如在家乡一样自在,用爱尔兰 人的热忱,将亚洲式小本生意经营的有声 有色。


Richard Loughlin


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French Shop B2, G/F, Tower 1, The Zenith, 3 Wan Chai Road, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔道3号尚翘峰1座地下B2铺 q +852 5465 2000 Mon to Sun: 17:30-00:00 5

Vigne Vecchie Italian Food

Hong Kong Store: Room 1104, 11/F, Island Beverley, 1 Great George Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong (Pacific Place Store to be open in early May 2016) 香港店:香港铜锣湾记利佐治街 1号, 金百利, 11楼1104号室 (太古广场分店將于本年 5 月开幕 ) info@vignevecchiefood.com

ZUMA Lounge & Bar

Shop 601-603, 6/F, Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong 香港中环皇后大道中15号 置地广场6楼601-603号 q +852 3657 6388 Mon to Fri:12:00-00:00 Sat to Sun: 15:00-00:00 free spirits

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南非极品佳酿

south africa’s finest Winemakers will feature their country’s top products in monthlong festivities.

Tickets for the festival can be purchased online at ticketflap.com/wosafestival (TK readers receive a discount with promo code SAWINETK). Information about all the events is at wosa.hk.

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Sharing and enjoying the South African wine moment with friends 与朋友分享欣賞南非葡萄酒时刻

第二届南非葡萄酒节将于四月以一系列多 元风貌的活动在香港盛大展开。这场由推 广葡萄酒出口的组织 – 南非葡萄酒协会 (WOSA)赞助的活动,是专为香港在地人 设计的探索南非美酒的绝佳机会。 香港各大参会餐厅、葡萄酒会、酒吧 及葡萄酒商将推出特别佐酒菜单、Happy Hour 优惠和免费酒款试饮等活动。除了各 种推广,南非葡萄酒协会还将赞助「分享 南非葡萄酒时刻」最佳照片奖(参加者只 需把照片发布在脸书或 Instagram 上,标签 #drinkSA),优胜者将获赠 Vintec 酒柜。 而 将 于 4 月 11 日 傍 晚 在 唯 港 荟 酒 店 Silverbox 宴会厅举行的葡萄酒节更是此长达 一个月盛会的高潮。宾客凭门票入场后,便

可恣意穿梭场内品尝美酒与小食,现场共 有多达 120 款南非红、白混酿酒与各式品 种和风格的葡萄酒任君选择,包括最受欢 迎的白诗南与品乐塔吉,以及多款以香槟 方法酿造的气泡酒 Méthod Cap Classique。 活 动 期 间, 南 非 侍 酒 师 协 会 的 Neil Grant 亦将举办内容丰富的品酒讲座,介绍 南非葡萄品种和各种酒款,唯港荟酒店的 资深侍酒师 Ace Lee 则会提供食物配搭的建 议。宾客亦可参加盲品游戏,闻香识酒。

欲参加此活动可于 ticketflap.com/wosafestival 线上购票,TK 读者凭优惠代码 SAWINETK 可享门票折扣,更多详情请参见网 站 wosa.hk。

COURTESY OF WOSA

The second edition of the Discover South African Wine Campaign, a multifaceted series of events, unfolds across Hong Kong in April. Sponsored by the industry’s exportpromotion organization, WOSA (Wines of South Africa), it’s designed to give locals the opportunity to explore the country’s wines in a Hong Kong context. Throughout the city, participating restaurants, wine clubs, bars, and wine merchants will be offering special pairing menus, happy hour discounts, and complimentary tastings. As part of the promotion, WOSA is sponsoring a contest for the best photo of a “South African wine moment” (posted to Facebook or Instagram, tagged #drinkSA). The winner will be awarded a Vintec wine cabinet. The high point of the month will be the South African Wine Festival, to be held on the evening of April 11 in the Silverbox Ballroom of Hotel Icon. The ticketed event, a tasting-andtapas walk-around, will present over a hundred and twenty of South Africa’s broad range of red and white blends and varietals, including some of its most popular chenin blanc and pinotage wines, as well as Champagne-style Méthod Cap Classique sparkling varieties. During the festival, Neil Grant of the South African Sommelier Association will conduct informational tasting sessions on the country’s grape varieties and wine styles, and Ace Lee, Senior Sommelier of Hotel Icon, will offer advice on food pairings. Guests can also take part in a “blind smelling” game to identify wines by aroma.


SOUTH AFRICA

Discover South African Wine in April South African Wine Festival 11th April 2016 (Monday), Silverbox Ballroom, Hotel ICON A celebration of South African wine and food. Taste over 120 wines with matching tapas. Education and Sommelier corners to make the evening memorable and fun. More information: www.wosa.hk WOSAHK

Tickets: $240/person for wine pass or $380/person for wine and food pass. Tickets include a WOSA Friendship bracelet, a Lucaris wine glass, $200 discount voucher for wine purchase and $200 Hotel ICON dining voucher. Early bird tickets available at Hotel ICON ( www.ticketap.com/wosafestival Share your South African Wine Moment and win! Tag your South African wine moment with #drinkSA on Facebook or Instagram for a chance to win great prizes, including a Vintec wine cabinet. Taste South African wine in town Visit Hotel ICON or any participating restaurants and retailers to discover the diversity of South African wine from MÊthode Cap Classique to sweet wine. Full list of participating outlets at www.wosa.hk Venue partner:

Prize sponsor:

WINE PRESERVATION TECHNOLOGY

Ticketing:

Media partners:


DESSERT

Arcane 餐厅主厨 Shane Osborn 将日本的冬季水果「凸顶柑」加入传统经典的英式夏季甜点,突显了柑橘果肉多汁的口感 和独特的甘甜风味,许多顾客认为这样的巧思能把柑橘的特性发挥得淋漓尽致。甜点奶油状的底层是由柠檬和柚子制成, 上头放着新鲜凸顶柑片、口味偏酸的橘子优格冰淇淋和柚子泡沫。以豆蔻调味的焦糖白巧克力脆片更增添口感,也让这道 甜点更显赏心悦目。

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DAVID HARTUNG

Shane Osborn of Arcane introduces a Japanese winter fruit to a quintessentially English summer dessert by featuring dekopon, a designer hybrid with juicy flesh of vivid orange and a unique, sweetly citrus flavor that many consider the ultimate expression of orange. The dessert’s creamy bottom layer, a posset of yuzu and lemon, is topped with fresh dekopon, satisfyingly tart mandarin-and-yogurt ice cream, and yuzu foam. A crisp white chocolate caramel tuile spiced with cardamom adds texture and visual drama.


TASTE CULTURE

Gebrüder Th one t

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et Br ot h , s) er na Ka

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”Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.“ Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com


Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com

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TK22 Free Spirits  

This issue pays tribute to those independent and innovative restaurateurs who have entered the region’s F+B market fray, armed not with the...

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