TK19 Leaf to Cup by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G 19

K I T C H E N

L E A F T O C U P

SRI LANKA

High on Tea 为茶痴狂 YUNNAN Pu-erh Power 普洱的奇幻旅程 TAIWAN Tea Corner 品茗角落

INTRODUCING

STARTER

CMY

DAVID HARTUNG

Pu-erh tea is best brewed in a teapot made from thick and porous Zisha clay from the Yixing region of China. Deliberately left unglazed, the pottery absorbs the tea’s oils and scent, and over time the buildup contributes its own unique flavor to the tea. 沏煮上乘的普洱茶，应当属用中国宜兴地区出品，厚实具气孔的紫砂壶。这种刻意未经上釉的陶壶会吸附茶油与茶香，时间越久越是赋予普洱茶独一无二的醇厚风味。

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T A S T I N G 19

K I T C H E N

L E A F T O C U P

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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Jean Alberti, Founder and CEO of Wild & Bare Co., presents a pu-erh tea cake of hand-picked and hand-processed leaves from an ancient tea forest in the remote mountain village of Lao Ban Zhang in Yunnan, China. Read more about “the king of pu-erh teas” starting on page 90. Wild & Bare Co.创办人暨执行长Jean Alberti手上的普洱茶饼以人工采摘和加工的鲜茶叶压制而成，茶叶来自中国云南老班章村一个偏远山庄内的古老茶林。详细内容请见90页「普洱茶的奇幻旅程」。 Photography by David Hartung

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, Leaf to Cup, TK traces the odyssey of tea, following its intricate journey from garden to workshop to salon. We begin with a few of tea’s artistic associations: first in the USA with a provocative exhibit of contemporary teapots, then in Paris, pondering a Persian painting that illuminates the ancient roots of modern Iran’s love of tea. And near the Forbidden City, we tour Beijing Tea House, architect Kengo Kuma’s evocation of ancient forms through modern materials. Next, as guests of the pioneering tea company Dilmah, TK travels to Sri Lanka and learns how tea can fuel profits as well as important humanitarian projects. We join in the tea harvest as the leaves are picked, withered, rolled, oxidized, and graded. And we follow the spirited competition at the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge, where teams from Macau and Hong Kong return home with honors. Then we take a break to discover the many manifestations of the single plant that produces such an amazing range of teas, from white to yellow, green to black. Back on the mainland, we travel to the village of Lao Ban Zhang in Yunnan, China, where the king of pu-erh teas is made by hand using methods passed down over centuries. Then in Taiwan we meet a trio of modern entrepreneurs who are introducing the island’s great teas to a new generation. Home in Hong Kong, we pay tribute to two of the city’s most elegant venues for afternoon tea, and finally we share a tranquil pot of pu-erh with a celebrated tea master who treks through the wilds of China in search of its rarest varieties. Enjoy.

MARK HAMMONS

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CONTENTS

2 STARTER 10 Beyond the Teapot • 12 Love at First Sip • 14 Palatial Polyethylene • 18 Full Plate 20 Elegant Afternoons • 24 Ip Wing-Chi’s World of Tea • 30 Tea Corner 34 A Cup of Kindness • 38 Leaf to Cup • 50 High on Tea • 60 Tea Portraits

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CONTENTS

72 Good Vibrations • 74 Fresh Take • 76 Irresistible Temptations • 80 Star of the Season 82 Royal Invasion • 86 Sweet Season • 90 Pu-erh Power 102 Alchemist of Tea • 106 Peter the Great • 110 Star Bar • 118 More Than Before 116 W H E R E T O F I N D T K • 122 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 124 D E S S E R T

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茶壶？非也

beyond the teapot A kitchenware staple is transformed to high art in an exhibition of contemporary teapots from the collection of the Racine Art Museum.

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从中东到日本，从俄国到英国，几乎全世界文化的家用品中都少不了茶壶。茶壶除了单纯用来盛装液体之外，也常常用在仪式上，可说是促进文化沟通的催化剂；它既是日常用具，也可以是权贵和权力的象征。尽管茶壶受制于壶口、把手、

着无穷无尽的可能性，深深启发了当代陶艺家。拉辛美术馆 2015 年收藏展「品茶时间：当代陶壶展」由 Lena Vigna 策划，共展出 40 项艺术作品，正可谓「旧壶新意」的闪亮典范。这些展品将平凡的型体精炼、纯化，扭曲成几至无法辨识的后现代样貌向文化或社会叙事挑战，甚至还有错视风格，将黏土全然转型以仿效另一种媒材。

CHARAK . PHOTOGRAPHY: JON BOLTON, RACINE.

功能、意境的演绎进行式却似乎有

ART MUSEUM, GIFT OF DAVID AND JACQUELINE

壶身、壶盖的既定设计，其型体、 TOP, BOTTOM AND FACING PAGE BOTTOM: RACINE

FROM THE MIDDLE EAST TO JAPAN, Russia to Britain, the teapot is a familiar household object in almost every culture in the world. Beyond its utility as a simple container of liquid, the teapot is often imbued with ritual, a catalyst for cultural communication. It may serve as both a mundane utensil and an emblem of privilege and power. Contemporary ceramicists are inspired by the seemingly endless possibilities of form, function, and meaning nascent in the teapot’s mandatory spout-handle-body-lid configuration. The forty artworks included in the 2015 exhibition Time for Tea: Contemporary Ceramic Teapots from Racine Art Museum’s Collection, curated by Lena Vigna, are “shining examples of a modern take on tradition.” The pieces include refined versions of the commonplace form; distorted, nearly unrecognizable postmodern examples that question cultural or social narratives; and trompe l’oeil styles, in which the clay is transformed to resemble another material entirely.

FOOD & ART

← Russian-born artist Sergei Isupov, who is interested in exploring the dynamics of human relationships, combines two-dimensional narrative with threedimensional form in his 1996 glazed porcelain work Fan the Fire. 出生于俄国的艺术家Sergei Isupov热衷于探索人与人之间的动态关系，例如1996年的釉瓷作品Fan the Fire(烈火)，便是他恣意游走在二维叙事与三维型体之间的范例。

PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAEL TROPEA, CHICAGO.

THE DONNA MOOG TEAPOT COLLECTION.

TOP LEFT AND RIGHT: RACINE ART MUSEUM,

↑

←

↖

Michael Lucero, born in 1953, is well-known for largescale ceramic works with vibrant glazes. He includes “a reverence for high art, affection for folk art, nostalgia for nature, and curiosity about other cultures” among his inspirations. In Teapot Form with Ribbon in Hair (1995) he combines glazed white earthenware, found wood object, ribbon, and horsehair.

New York-based Matt Nolen describes himself as a painter, storyteller, and architect who uses ceramics to investigate his love for, in his words, “the painted surface, the three-dimensional form, and narrative content.” Foreign Interest Tea Set (1991) is executed in glazed whiteware.

生于1953年的Michael Lucero 以制作大规模陶瓷作品且釉彩鲜活而闻名，并将「对精致艺术的崇敬、对民间艺术的情感、对大自然的怀旧、对异文化的好奇」融入灵感当中。他的作品Teapot Form with Ribbon in Hair (1995)使用了釉面的白陶器、木制底座、缎带、马毛。

Queen of Hearts (1990) by Michael Sherrill is a stoneware work with glazes and lustres. According to the Racine Art Museum, he is interested in the “intersection where humans and materials meet in both handmade objects and the natural world,” and most often works with clay, metal, and glass. Queen of Hearts (1990) 红心皇后是Michael Sherrill填了釉面与彩釉的瓷器作品。拉辛美术馆说，他最感兴趣的是「人与原材质在人造物与自然界的交会处」，而他最常使用的媒材为黏土、金属和玻璃。

住在纽约的Matt Nolen形容自己是画家，是说书人，也是建筑师，专门运用陶瓷来检视他所谓的对于「绘画表面、三维型体、叙事内容」的热爱。Foreign Interest Tea Set (1991) 异趣茶具组是用釉面素坯的白瓷制成。

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FOOD & ART

一饮钟情

love at first sip A five-hundred-year-old Persian painting reflects the ancient origins of modern Iran’s infatuation with tea.

伊朗人的现代生活中，茶无所不在，普及程 TEA IS AS UBIQUITOUS in Iranian life today as it was for those 度就如古代波斯帝国时期一般。伊朗家庭每 living in the ancient empire of Persia. As households across Iran 天一早起床，就把装满水的水壶放在炉上煮 awake each morning, the kettle is set to boil, and it continues 沸，接下来一整天，水壶就这样保持沸腾状 simmering throughout the day. Every meeting between people 态。无论家庭聚会、朋友吃饭、谈生意或是 – a family gathering, a meal with friends, a business deal, or a 婚礼，所有社交聚会都以茶开始，也以茶结 wedding – begins and ends with tea. Thanks to China’s Silk Road 束。这种芳香满溢的琥珀色饮料因为古代中 and a close association at the time with India, the aromatic 国丝路，以及当时波斯帝国与印度的密切往 amber brew was introduced to the region around the fifteenth 来，遂于西元十五世纪左右引进该地，并迅 century and quickly replaced coffee as the favored drink. 速取代原本广受人们喜爱的咖啡。 This richly-colored sixteenth-century Persian miniature 这幅色彩缤纷的十六世纪波斯细密画， depicts a couple, most likely members of the upper social class, 描绘的是在富丽堂皇的花园背景下，一对夫 being served their tea in a sumptuous garden setting. Arranged 妇（很可能是上流社会成员）被 around them is the elegant teaware typical of the BY 人伺候喝茶的景象。他们身旁放 formal tea ceremony of the era: tea and sugar KATE NICHOLSON 着当时正式茶事使用的典型优雅 bowls, teapot, water jug, burner. 茶具：茶和糖碗、茶壶、水壶、 The tradition of Persian miniature painting ART BY 火炉。 flourished between the thirteenth and sixteenth PERSIAN SCHOOL 波斯细密画的传统文化在 centuries, following a Mongolian invasion in 1219 (16TH CENTURY ) 十三至十六世纪间达到鼎盛，主 that brought the catalyzing influence of Chinese 因是西元 1219 年蒙古入侵带来 landscape painting. In the early centuries, the tradi-

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期的波斯细密画发展与手抄本密切相关。精致的细密画装饰页面，并且描绘诗歌阐述的故事内容。十五、十六世纪，画家开始绘制独立的单幅细密画，并且汇集成册，绘画主题通常是爱情故事、狩猎场面或宫廷生活点滴。伊朗茶馆 (chaikhanehs) 过去只有年长男性能够进入，不过现在已迅速成为年轻一代流行的聚会场所。客人聚在一起吃饭，喝着当地特产的浓茶，茶叶是来自二十世纪初在伊朗建立的第一批茶园。喝茶通常搭配方糖 (qhand)，或是一种番红花色的冰糖

(nabaat)，喝的时候先用门牙轻轻咬一口糖，然后再啜饮一口茶，细细品尝糖与茶在口中交融的美妙滋味。发出一点声音虽然没有大碍，但刚刚学习喝茶的新手严禁如此。

PERSIAN MINIATURE. BOUKHARA SCHOOL . TEA CEREMONY IN A GARDEN, PERSIAN ART,

haunt of older males, but today they are quickly becoming popular gathering places for the younger generation. Patrons eat together and drink the strong local tea that has been cultivated in Iran since the first plantations were established in the early twentieth century. The brew is typically accompanied by sugar cubes, qhand , or a type of saffron-colored rock sugar, nabaat . The sugar is clasped between the front teeth and the tea is sipped carefully over and around it. While a little noise is acceptable, the slurping produced by newcomers to the technique is definitely not.

中国传统山水画技法，产生了催化作用。早

1560-1570, PARIS, MUSÉE DES ARTS DÉCORATIFS, PARIS, FRANCE / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

tion was closely associated with book production. Exquisite miniatures illuminated the pages of manuscripts and illustrated the stories told in collections of poetry. By the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, artists began producing albums of single, stand-alone works, often depictions of love scenes, hunting parties, or various aspects of court life. Iranian tea houses, chaikhanehs , were once the exclusive

DESIGN

聚乙烯之殿

palatial polyethylene NUMEROUS TEAHOUSES and other traditional buildings dot the perimeter of Beijing’s Forbidden City, but since late 2014, a new structure stands in stark contrast to them all. Located opposite the East Gate of the UNESCO-listed Ming and Qing dynasty palace, a private club named simply Beijing Tea House is constructed almost entirely from translucent plastic blocks. Those lucky enough to tour the interior of the pavilion, 250 square meters over three stories, will first enter a ground floor tea room, then climb the stairs to two carpeted private rooms before finally reaching the rooftop terrace with unimpeded – arguably unrivaled – views over the 600-year-old fortress across the way. The interior furnishings, while sparse, are at the same time both luxurious and functional. The original roof and dark wooden floors on the first level are all that remain of the former siheyuan -style building, which was renovated by the studio of the eversurprising Japanese architect, Kengo Kuma. Kuma is celebrated around the world as much for his experimentation with materials both old and new – from bamboo and plastered straw to plastics and optical fiber – as he is for theories of “spatial immateriality” and the use of natural light and transparency in his architecture. Referencing the paper screens and paneling that are common in traditional buildings across Asia, the walls and ceilings of Beijing Tea House are composed of grids of oblong polyethylene blocks filled in with translucent blue polycarbonate panels. The hollow blocks not only act as high-performance insulation, but also “let light pass through to create a gentle Zen space,” the studio notes. Four different configurations were produced by a rotational molding process. Renovating a traditional building in an important heritage setting with such a contemporary material as plastic may, for some, seem in jarringly poor taste. But, as the firm notes, the blocks are in a sense simply a “modern version” of the masonry construction that is ubiquitous in Beijing. Perhaps this is why the building seems to enhance, rather than disrupt, the awing experience of such close proximity to one of the world’s most treasured historical sites.

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BEIJING TEA HOUSE©KOJI FUJII/NACASA & PARTNERS INC .

Kengo Kuma’s new project in China’s capital evokes ancient architectural forms through startlingly modern materials.

DESIGN

中国北京的紫禁城周边茶馆林立，而 2014 年底，此处新落成一间外观极特殊的茶馆，与其他店家形成强烈对比。紫禁城为明清皇家宫殿，名列联合国教科文组织世界文化遗产，该城东门外有一间名为北京茶馆（Beijing Tea House）的私人会馆，建筑风格奇特，几乎全以半透明塑胶砖砌叠而成。北京茶馆楼高三层，每层 250 平方米，如有幸一窥内部究竟，甫进门会看到一楼的茶室，步上阶梯后是二楼，设有两个铺有华美地毯的包厢茶房，最后抵达顶楼的露台，放眼望去便是紫禁城，六百年的古城风华尽收眼底，毫无遮蔽，景观优势可说是独一无二。茶馆内部摆设疏落有致，家具兼具奢华质感与实用功能。此处原先是传统四合院，改建后保留一楼的屋顶与深色木质地板，工程由日本建筑师隈研吾及其团队操刀，他的作品总是充满惊奇，以大胆实验性格闻名全球建筑界，他擅长融合创新与传统的建材，如竹子、水泥混合稻杆、塑胶建材、光纤材料等等，此外，他所提的「非物质性的空间效果」理论，与运用自然光、透明感的建筑设计，也同样闻名遐迩。北京茶馆仿效亚洲传统建筑常见的和式纸拉门与隔间，内部的墙壁与天花板设计采用长形聚乙烯砖拼接而成，砖内为空心，砖些空心聚乙烯砖不仅具有绝佳隔热效果，隈研吾建筑事务所提到，更能「让自然光穿透入内，营造禅意十足的空间」，而四种不同的设计结构则是采用回转成型制程的成果。一栋位于重要古迹周边的传统建筑，竟使用如此前卫的塑胶建材加以改建，虽然有些人可能对此风格品味嗤之以鼻，但该建筑事务所认为，这便是北京随处可见的石瓦建筑「现代版」。北京茶馆距离世界历史古迹只有咫尺之遥，其特殊风格不仅无损此宏伟景观，反而更能烘托其恢弘之美，箇中原因，也许可从建筑事务所观点而说明一二。

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BEIJING TEA HOUSE©KOJI FUJII/NACASA & PARTNERS INC .

与砖间以半透明的蓝色聚碳酸酯板连结。这

TASTING NEWS

The Wedgwood Afternoon Tea set at The Langham Hong Kong Wedgwood朗廷英式下午茶

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全盘惊艳

full plate

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Executive Chef Pedro Samper juggles one new job, two famous partners, and three afternoon tea menus at The Langham, Hong Kong.

ONE LONGING GLANCE at the three-tiered, floor-to-table tea stand brimming with sweet concoctions and savory delights, and it’s abundantly clear that Chef Pedro Samper has a lot on his plate, literally and metaphorically. As newly appointed executive chef of all western restaurants at The Langham, Hong Kong, Samper is drawing on years of experience at Michelin three-star restaurants in Spain and Japan to further enhance the hotel’s dining scene, beginning with its signature afternoon tea in Palm Court. The Langham’s Wedgwood Afternoon Tea is the result of a successful partnership between two icons of British tea – one, the first brand of English teaware, the other, the first luxury hotel to serve afternoon tea. In addition to designing a custom Langham Rose chinaware pattern, Wedgwood also created an exclusive line of teas, including the Palm Court Exotic Blend with hibiscus flowers, rosehips, and rose petals that infuse the Chinese white tea with a soft pink evocative of The Langham’s brand identity. Samper has discreetly refined the flavors and presentation of the delicately wrought cakes and pastries and composed a new savory plate for the Wedgwood Afternoon Tea. “Afternoon tea is a very classic tradition from England,” he says, “but why not serve one for people who don’t really care for sweets? And why not offer a little more luxury?” Samper’s questions inspired two new menus. The Langham Savoury Afternoon Tea is a triumph of savory delicacies, including raspberry and rose foie gras lollipops, fortyeight-month aged ibérico ham, and lobster grissini. And a new limited-time special, the Ladurée Afternoon Tea by Langham, features an exclusive Ladurée macaron that perfectly captures The Langham’s distinctive ginger flower scent.

仔细凝视这个座地式三层点心塔，上头满满摆着各式甜品和咸味佳肴，不论在外观表现或整体意境，都能让人明显感受到总厨 Pedro Samper 对点心制作的充分准备。

Samper 最近接下香港朗廷酒店所有西式餐厅的行政总厨一职，他利用在西班牙和日本米其林三星餐厅工作的多年丰富经验，让朗廷酒店的餐饮品质更上层楼，首先就从酒店最具代表性的下午茶餐厅「廷廊」开始。朗廷的 Wedgwood 英式下午茶，是英式饮茶两大指标性品牌成功合作的成果，一个是英国茶具第一品牌，另一个则是下午茶首屈一指的豪华酒店。除了量身设计朗廷玫瑰瓷器专属图案之外，

Wedgwood 也推出独家特色香茗系列，例如「异国棕榈」，以中国白茶混合木槿花、玫瑰果和玫瑰花瓣，茶汤呈淡粉色，令人联想到朗廷的品牌识别设计。

Samper 精心调整各色精致糕点的味道和外观，并为 Wedgwood 下午茶构思出全新的咸点菜单。他说道：「下午茶是英格兰非常经典的传统，那么何不照顾一

Executive Chef Pedro Samper

下不爱甜食的人呢？多提供些更奢华的小点如何？」

Samper 的好奇促使两份新菜单面世。「朗廷咸点下午茶」是咸味佳肴的一大胜利，其中包括香煎鹅肝棒棒糖配红桑子玫瑰酱、48 月龄伊比利亚火腿、龙虾意大利面包。此外，还有限时优惠推出的朗廷自制，其中的独家 Ladurée 马「Ladurée 下午茶」卡龙完美融合了朗廷才有的姜花香气。 leaf to cup

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TASTING NOTES

优雅午后

elegant afternoons

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

One of Hong Kong’s glorious grande dames carries on a classic ritual every day from two to six.

IN THE PENINSULA’S LOBBY each day when lunchtime has passed, the queue for Afternoon Tea begins taking form, a long line of shoppers, tourists, business people, and families out for a taste of tradition amidst the gilded columns and potted palms of Hong Kong’s oldest hotel. While many of the city’s luxury hotels strive to keep up with current fashions, The Peninsula proudly flaunts its old-fashioned colonial style. In the 1960s, the fans were taken down and the ceilings lowered to make room for a newfangled air-conditioning system, but the architectural and decorative elements were otherwise preserved. The furniture was replaced in 2013, but you wouldn’t know it. Hotel spokesperson Carrie Sung reassuringly affirms, “We would never change the look of it.” Ornate high ceilings echo with the refined, muted clinking of Sheffield silver and Tiffany china. Some of the flatware is decades old, the insignia of The Hongkong and Shanghai Hotels, Limited barely discernible on the handles. White-jacketed waiters, moving gracefully among the tables and pouring at a practiced angle, keep cups full (but not too full) of the hotel’s signature tea, a robust blend from India. But most everyone comes to Afternoon Tea for the food. The Peninsula serves its tea set on traditional three-tiered stands, to be eaten bottom

香港半岛酒店的每日午餐刚过不久，人潮便开始涌现，购物者、游客、商务人士及旁边的一家大小开始聚集一起，有序排成长长队列，在这香港最历史悠久的酒店的雕梁画栋及棕榈盆栽间等候，只为一尝大堂茶座著名的下午茶美点。相较许多豪华酒店忙着引进最新时尚潮流，半岛酒店显得独树一帜，深深以自己的传统殖民风格为荣。上世纪 60 年代虽把风扇撤下，装设全新空调系统，但仍完整保留原本的建筑及装饰特色。 2013 年家具也曾重新换过，却丝毫不露痕迹。酒店发言人孙嘉慧也确实再三强调：「原始风貌我们绝对不变。」充满装饰细节的挑高天花板与精致的 Sheffield 银器及 Tiffany 瓷器发出的柔和铿锵音调相互呼应。部分餐具使用已超过数十年，握把上的香港上海大酒店有限公司徽饰在岁月消磨之下几乎难以辨认。服务生身着一身英挺白色外套，动作优雅地穿梭于桌间，以固定角度弯身替帮客人倒茶，把一杯杯精选印度茶叶所泡的半岛酒店招牌茗茶盛至八分满，不过多数客人着眼的仍是此地盛名远播的经典下午茶餐点。半岛酒店下午茶餐点以传统三层架盛装，让客人由下而上，吃到最上层，与一般下层咸食到上层甜点的安排没太大差别，差别在于最先入口的是半岛酒店的招牌英式松饼。从烤箱新鲜出炉后，涂上奶油忌廉及有机草莓酱，热热的品尝味道最好。大堂茶座主厨郑秋华说明：「面团作法从没变过，只是从一开始使用的黑葡萄干改成现在的金黄葡萄干和樱桃干。」

Lobby Chef Andy Cheng 大堂茶座主厨郑秋华

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TASTING NOTES

Captain Kenneth Kwok 部长郭启彦

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半岛精选名茶

bread with herbed mayonnaise so it doesn’t get soggy. The top rung delivers a sugar high featuring macarons, a pistachio and cherry tea cake, pineapple tartlets with silky marshmallow topping, and fingers of banana cake with a tangy passion fruit and white chocolate cream. Guests also receive some little extras, perhaps speculoos truffles or a lychee panna cotta, depending on the service. Altogether, it’s like perusing a rare collection of perfect jewels. Chef Cheng says that he carefully considers appearance as well as flavor when putting together a tea set. “Because for our guests,” he laughs, “it’s not eating that comes first, it’s the camera.” And that’s one sure sign that times have changed, even for Afternoon Tea at The Peninsula.

接下来就是咸食，有经典法式洛林小咸派、状似裹以墨鱼汁染色面包的苏格兰烟熏鲑鱼肉卷，搭配火腿薄片的五谷面包，以及绝对不能缺席的小黄瓜三明治。主厨以盐及香草腌渍小黄瓜一夜，逼出多余的水分及残存的苦味，再以香草蛋黄酱封住面包，确保面包口感爽脆，不会变得湿软。最上层一字排开都是缤纷的甜点，包括马卡龙、开心果及樱桃茶蛋糕、盖以丝滑棉花糖的凤梨塔，以及手拿大小的香蕉蛋糕搭配浓郁百香果及白巧克力奶油。同时还有一些额外的惊喜，像 speculoos 饼干松露巧克力或荔枝奶酪奶冻，根据当天情况而定。整个下午茶套餐有如宝盒内被欣赏的稀世珠宝一般。主厨表示制作之初下了许多功夫，希望能同时兼顾外观以及味道。他笑着说：「毕竟对客人而言，吃还不是第一，得先拍照才行。」时代不同了，此一潮流就连半岛酒店的下午茶也无法置身其外。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

to top. Normally that implies a progression from savory to sweet, but here the scones come first. Fresh from the oven, they are best eaten hot, slathered with Devonshire clotted cream and organic strawberry jam. “The recipe for the dough is unchanged,” says Lobby Chef Andy Cheng. “In the beginning, we used only black raisins, but now I use golden ones and dried cherries.” It’s hardly a radical change, and that is exactly the point. Next come the savories. There’s a classic quiche Lorraine in miniature, Scottish smoked salmon presented like a roulade in bread dyed black with squid ink, paper thin slices of ham on five-grain bread, and, of course, cucumber sandwiches. Chef Cheng marinates the cucumbers overnight in salt and herbs to leach out excess water and any bitter notes, and he seals the

The Peninsula Tea Collection

TEA MASTER

叶荣枝的茶香世界

ip wing-chi’s world of tea One man’s lifelong passion has led from boyhood memories of the local tea stall to arduous treks through the hinterlands of China.

IF YOU ARE WHAT YOU EAT, then you must 若您主张「人如其食」，那么您也一定认同 also be what you drink. Red wine has its 「我喝故我在」。如同有一派死忠支持者相 devotees, but Ip Wing-chi, the 65-year-old 信喝红酒对身体好，乐茶轩负责人 —65 岁 owner of LockCha Tea House, attributes 的叶荣枝则将自己强健的体魄、年轻的外 his robust health, youthful appearance, and 貌、似乎无穷的精力全归功于他固定饮用 seemingly boundless energy to steady con普洱茶的习惯。 sumption of black pu-erh tea. 「我不知道自己喝了多少 BY “I’ve no idea how much tea I 茶。」叶先生说。「但我很少喝水。 JANE RAM drink,” says Ip, “but I rarely drink 每天早晨我会先喝一杯甜奶茶， water. I start my day with a cup 这个习惯从我九岁、十岁还在上 PHOTOGRAPHY BY of sweetened milk tea. That habit 学时就养成了，当时我常和较年 DAVID HARTUNG dates back to my school days as 长的学生在一起，他们会去附近 a nine- or ten-year-old when I 的茶餐厅吃早茶，而甜奶茶中的 hung out with older students who went to 糖分能给我一整天满满的活力。之后我改 the local cha chaan teng for their breakfast. 喝普洱茶，对我的各方面健康都很有帮助。 The sugar gives me an energy boost for the 我很爱吃，来者不拒，即使是很不健康的 day. After that I switch to pu-erh which helps 食物也照吃不误。我的家族有高胆固醇病 my health in all aspects. I love to eat, I never 史，但我从来没这个问题。从明代开始， refuse anything, no matter how unhealthy 普洱便被用在中药里，它的好处包括瘦身、 it might be. My family has a history of high 软化动脉、降血糖和降血压等等。也有人

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TEA MASTER

cholesterol, but I have never had that problem. Since the Ming dynasty, pu-erh has been included in Chinese medicine. Benefits include keeping you slim, softening your arteries, and lowering blood sugar and blood pressure. It is also said to encourage longevity. No one has been able to explain how it works – we just know that it does. Hong Kong people have been drinking it daily since the Ching dynasty. Northern Chinese prefer lighter-flavored green oolong, but 70 percent of all tea drunk in Hong Kong restaurants is still pu-erh.” During our wide-ranging conversation, we drink three teas. I enjoy the mellow, complex flavor of the fully fermented pu-erh, but ask for tea with less caffeine. Ip gently lectures, “A researcher in Shanghai discovered

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that the caffeine in pu-erh only lasts four to six hours. If you stay awake longer than that, it’s psychological. Incidentally, a retired Chinese University professor discovered a variety of tea without caffeine and is researching its role in preventing osteoporosis.” But Ip humors me with heung lung guat, literally, “fragrant dragon bone tea.” Prepared from oolong tea leaf stems, it contains very little caffeine, and I enjoy its sweet smell and delicate flavor. “The Japanese use it raw for bottled tea drinks,” Ip explains. “I modify it by roasting at high temperature to maximize the aroma.” As a special treat he orders a pot of kung fu tea. Timing and temperature are critical in the brewing process. “The water should be at ninety to ninety-five degrees,” Ip explains,

“and the leaves should steep no more than five to ten seconds or the flavor will be too bitter.” The result has a fruitiness not unlike lychees. It was Yixing teaware that first sparked Ip’s serious passion for tea. After graduating from the Chinese University of Hong Kong, he joined its museum. There he met the late Dr. K. S. Lo, who was looking for someone to help him research Yixing pottery. “Dr. Lo had a huge collection,” says Ip, “but I wanted to study Yixing wares firsthand, so I went to China. It was amazing to find so many potters doing wonderful work. Lo and I formed a company to import and sell Yixing teaware in Hong Kong. In 1979, I arranged Hong Kong’s first expo of tea and teaware at the Chinese University museum.

“I was already very interested in tea and I learned much more about it as this project progressed. I felt the teapots would be lonely without tea, but K.S. was reluctant to get into tea, as it was not so fashionable in those days. So I decided to go it alone. “In the late ’80s I visited many tea farms, but what I found was very different from what was in the market. All the leaves went to a central blending facility run by the big national tea export corporation. I concentrated on bringing single-day harvests to Hong Kong. This wasn’t legal, but I got the tea to Shenzhen, then found people to smuggle it into Hong Kong, ten kilos at a time. “I’m still one of very few people to

说喝普洱能延年益寿，没人知道作用原理为何，只知道它确有这些好处。香港人从清代开始便天天喝普洱。中国北方人偏好味道较淡的乌龙茶，但七成香港餐厅仍都供应普洱茶。」我们一边天南地北地闲聊，一边就喝了三种茶。我很喜欢普洱熟茶醇和繁复的口感，但仍要求喝低咖啡因的茶。叶先生温和地告诉我：「一位上海学者发现普洱里的咖啡因只会维持四到六小时，如果你醒着的时间超过四到六小时，就是心理作用。顺道一提，有一位退休的中文大学教授发现了数种不含咖啡因的茶，他正在研究在预防骨质疏松症中起到的作用。随后叶先生介绍了令人莞尔的芳香「龙骨茶」给我。龙骨茶是从乌龙茶叶的茶枝制成，咖啡因含量极少，我也很喜欢

它的甜味和细致的口感。叶先生说：「日本人用生枝制成樽装茶饮。我做了改良，用高温烘烤来增加香气。」此外他还额外招待了一壶功夫茶，冲泡时间和温度在整个过程中扮演了关键角色。他说：「水温必须在 90 到 95 度之间，茶叶只能浸泡五到十秒，否则味道就会太苦。」冲泡完后，功夫茶散发出一种类似荔枝味的果香。叶先生对茶的热情最初是受宜兴紫砂茶具所启发。他自香港中文大学毕业后，进入中大文物馆从事研究，并在那里遇见了正想找人共同研究紫砂陶器的罗桂祥博士。叶先生说：「罗博士有很多收藏品，但我想亲自研究紫砂茶具，所以我去了中国，发现原来有这么多技艺精湛的陶艺家，着实让我大开眼界。罗博士和我成立了一家公司，专门在香港进口贩售紫砂茶具。 leaf to cup

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TEA MASTER

Delicately flavored vegetarian dim sum does not compete with the tea. 风味精致的素食点心与茶茗相映成趣。

source my own tea direct from the farms. What I call my First Long March was in the 1980s when I went all over China studying tea and its production, looking for famous teas like Dragon Well and Wuyi Rock. Unfortunately, prices have risen over the years and quality has deteriorated as growers began using too much chemical fertilizer in an effort to boost production. “I’m currently preparing for what I call my Second Long March, which will take me to remote areas of Hunan, Hubei, and Sichuan. China still has countless thousands of tea farmers who are very poor, but unspoiled, good people. Many of the teas that they grow are unknown to the outside world. On such a trip I first check the location and look at the mountains – if they are green, clear, and welcoming, there should be good tea. At high altitude, pests are few, so there is no need to use pesticides, and these people are too poor to spend money unnecessarily. Then I look for good men with good hands and hearts. Only after that do I inspect the big sacks of tea. I scoop out a handful from the top of the bag and smell it.

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If it’s good, I dig down to the middle to check another handful. If that is also good, I turn the bag upside down and smell tea from the bottom of the bag. This is the best approach I know for quality control! When I judge tea, I start with the taste, then I check whether leaves are healthy and clean. Finally, I consider whether it is worth the price. I don’t care about prestigious names, locations, and reputations. I’m not interested in competing with big dealers.” LockCha Tea House has been running successfully for the past twelve years in the K. S. Lo Gallery at Hong Kong’s Flagstaff House Museum of Tea Ware. But Ip is looking in new directions, working with the Jao Tsung-I Academy to establish a Chinese Tea Educational/Scientific/Cultural Academy (TESCA), which he hopes can launch next year. “It will cover all aspects of tea education and associated topics like ceramics, flower arranging, painting, calligraphy, music, and philosophy. It’s a huge project and I can’t do it all. The best I can hope is to establish a platform on which others can build.”

1979 年，我在中文大学文物馆策办了香港第一届茶和茶具展。」「当时我对茶已经很有兴趣，而且也因为这份工作学习了不少。我觉得如果没有茶，茶壶就会很孤单，但罗博士不愿意做茶生意，那时候并不太流行，所以我决定自己钻研。八十年代末期，我走访许多茶园，但我找到的茶和市面贩售的很不同。当时所有茶叶都会送至一家国营茶叶出口公司经营的中央工厂混合，我则专门将单日采收的茶叶带到香港。这么做其实不合法，所以我先将茶叶带到深圳，再找人走私到香港，一次十公斤。」「那时我仍是少数直接从茶园买茶叶的人之一。1980 年代我展开了所谓的第一次『长征』，走遍整个中国研究茶叶和茶的生产，寻找龙井和武夷岩等有名的茶。然而几年下来价格攀升，品质却走下坡，因为茶农开始过度使用化学农药以增加生产。」「现在我正准备展开第二次『长征』，将会去湖南、湖北、四川等偏远地区。中国还有许多非常贫穷的茶农，却都是不骄矜的好人，许多他们种植的茶外界都不知道。走访茶园时，我首先会观察种植环境并检视山地，如果现场青葱翠绿、清新宜人，就有很大把握可以种出好茶。高海拔地区害虫很少，根本不需要使用农药，而且这些农家家境清贫，不会支出不必要的花费。我会注重茶农是否善良、技术佳，且心肠好，之后才会检查大批的茶叶。我会从一整袋茶叶最顶部舀起一勺来闻闻看，如果味道好，我再从中间处挖一勺来检查。如果味道依然很好，我会把整袋茶叶倒过来，检查最底部的茶叶。这是就我所知控管品质最好的方法！我评断茶叶时会先从气味开始，然后再检视叶子是否健康干净，最后才考虑价格是否合理。我不在乎名气、产地或声望，我对跟大盘商竞争没兴趣。」乐茶轩过去 12 年来在香港茶具文物馆的罗桂祥茶艺馆内经营有成，但叶先生又有了新目标，就是与饶宗颐文化馆共同创立一所中华品茶教育 / 科学 / 文化学院 (TESCA)，且希望明年能正式开张。「这所学院将传授饮茶教育的各个面向以及相关主题，例如陶器、插花、绘画、书法、音乐、哲学等等。这是个大计画，光凭我一己之力是不够的。我顶多希望能先打下一个基础，让其他人在上面盖高楼。」

“ I first check the location and look at the mountains – if they are green, clear, and welcoming, there should be good tea. 我首先会观察种植环境并检视山地，如果现场青葱翠绿、清新宜人，就有很大把握可以种出好茶。”

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Arwen Hsiao and David Yang 萧意玟和杨德威

ENTREPRENEURS

品茗角落

tea corner Mamie Chen meets with young entrepreneurs on a mission to reintroduce their generation to the teas of Taiwan.

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ENTREPRENEURS

“We want our customers to know that the flavor of each of our teas is unique. They may never taste exactly the same tea again.

STARBUCKS MAY NOT YET BE on every block in Taipei, but Arwen Hsiao, David Yang, and David Kuo have been observing, with some consternation, the growing trendiness in Taiwan of gourmet coffees and fancy espresso drinks, to say nothing of the proliferation of bubble tea and bottled ice tea. “People may think the drinks they’re buying in bottles are fine tea,” says Hsiao, “but that’s a big misunderstanding. We Taiwanese certainly ought to know more about our own native teas.” The cofounders of Wolf Tea see their mission as making the distinctive teas of Taiwan more accessible to beginners by demystifying the pomp and circumstance surrounding the brewing process. “We explain very logically how water temperature, teapot materials, and storage methods can affect the final taste of the tea,” says Hsiao. Neophytes are encouraged to have fun exploring different varieties of tea, once they’ve been equipped with a few basic guidelines: use a glass or porcelain teapot; pour boiling water over leaves that are tightly furled and slightly cooler water over looser leaves; when the tea is ready, always pour it into a pitcher to prevent over-steeping. More advanced enthusiasts are invited to try their hand at “nurturing” an unglazed ceramic pot with a single type of tea, allowing the porous clay to

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absorb the flavors of the steeping brew and in turn enhance the final product. Wolf Tea also takes pride in its singleday-harvest teas. The quality of a tea harvest is shaped by the weather to such an astonishing degree that a tea picked one day can taste discernibly different from the same tea picked the next. The Wolf Tea team stays in the mountains for weeks during harvest season, tasting and comparing each day’s pickings to select the finest batches. All their products are individually numbered and dated to indicate the harvest. “We want our customers to know that the flavor of each of our teas is unique,” says Yang. “They may never taste exactly the same tea again. And they can be sure that the dates we select are the finest from that season.” The single-day-harvest approach may be more daring than what larger companies typically do – blend for a stable flavor profile. But Wolf Tea believes the varying subtle nuances between single-day-harvest teas are to be treasured and celebrated. Hsiao appreciates the many individual ways that people enjoy tea. “They need to master the setup and the physical process of making it the way they like it,” she says. “But in the end, drinking tea is meant to be a time for quiet relaxation. Everyone needs a personal tea corner of the mind.”

琅茶创办人萧意玟 , 杨德威和郭孟霖愈发忧心忡忡，因为他们发现，台北的星巴克咖啡分店虽未遍及大街小巷，但是饮用极品咖啡、意式浓缩咖啡的风潮日益盛行，更不用说随手可得的手摇茶和瓶装茶。萧意玟说：「大家可能以为市面上买到的瓶装茶都是好茶，但这是一种误解。」这三位琅茶创办人认为，他们的任务就是透过破除泡茶过程的迷思，让更多入门者认识独一无二的台湾茶。萧意玟表示：「我们以逻辑分析的方式解释水温、茶壶材

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「我们希望让客人知道，每款茶都具有独一无二的风味，尝过手捧的这杯茶，以后或许再不会品尝到完全一样的味道了。」”

质和茶叶贮存方式是如何影响泡茶的风味的。」新手若已掌握基本原则，三位创办人便会鼓励他们尝试各式各样不同的茶款，可使用玻璃茶壶或瓷壶，将沸水淋上紧压的茶叶，将温度稍降的水淋上较松散的茶叶，茶泡好后，一律先倒入茶海，以免茶叶在壶中浸泡过久。而他们会邀请更进阶的爱茗人士亲手「养壶」，使用未上釉的陶壶泡单一款茶，让充满气孔的陶土吸收茶汤风味，让泡出的茶更添香气。让琅茶引以为傲的还包含「单日采收」

的茶品，因天气对每批茶的品质影响深远，即使采收日仅仅相隔一天，茶叶风味可能也相距甚远。采收季节时，琅茶的团队会在山上待好几周，比较每天采收的各批茶叶，挑选最高品质的精品，每款茶品都有个别编号，并标明采收日期。杨德威说：「我们希望让客人知道，每一款茶都具有独特的风味，喝完手中的这杯茶，以后可能再不会尝到完全一样的味道，而且我们保证这些茶是选最佳采收季节时摘下的茶叶冲泡而成的。」单日采收

的方式可能比一般大型茶品公司大胆一些，大型厂商通常采用混茶的方式，以让每款茶的风味都保持稳定一致，但是琅茶认为，单日采收的每批茶叶间那种微妙差异更值得深深珍视、细细品味。萧意玟认为每个人享用茶茗的方式各有不同，这些异趣弥足珍贵，她表示：「大家需要熟练泡茶的技巧与程序才能泡出自己喜欢的味道，但是说到底，喝茶就是让自己享有一个平静舒心的时刻，每个人心中都需要有个专属自己的品茗角落。」 leaf to cup

TK |

INTERVIEW

一盏善意之茶

a cup of kindness A family business that produces one of the world’s most popular single-origin teas shares its success with people in need. BY LUCY MORGAN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

was building his business,” says Dilhan C. Fernando, “with the fragrance of tea all around us.” His father combined Dilhan’s first name with that of his brother Malik to form the name Dilmah for the family’s brand of Ceylon tea that is grown, processed, and packaged entirely in Sri Lanka. “Tea was part of us, and it was the philosophy of the business which attracted us. So after studying abroad, we came back, because my father was doing something fundamentally unique.” His father, founder Merrill J. Fernando, adopted an unusually magnanimous approach, viewing business as a matter of human service. “From an early age,” explains Dilhan, “we were made aware of our responsibility. The purpose of life and the purpose of business is in pursuing the possibilities to change peoples’ lives.” After studying development economics at the London School of Economics, he might have been drawn into academia, but his family business in Sri Lanka offered him the perfect place to put his knowledge into action. In addition to his responsibilities in tea production, Dilhan manages the MJF Charitable Foundation and Dilmah Conservation.

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DAVID HARTUNG

“MY BROTHER AND I grew up as my father

Dilhan C. Fernando

INTERVIEW

“The fantastic thing is that I’m able to practice what I love about development economics as part of my work,” he says. A percentage of the pre-tax profits of Dilmah are used to fund humanitarian and conservation projects. Tea plantation workers have access to early education for their children at one of many Child Development Centres. The wider community can benefit from the Small Entrepreneur Programme, which offers equipment and funding to launch or improve small businesses. More than a thousand children from underprivileged areas gather at MJF Centres for education and life-skills training and to enjoy a range of art, craft, and IT activities. In recent decades, Sri Lanka has endured immense hardship. The tsunami of 2004 killed more than thirty thousand people, devastated coastal areas, and destroyed the

livelihoods of many hundreds of thousands. In the north and east of the country, civil unrest has fractured communities, leaving many people traumatized. Dilmah Conservation conducts projects such as Nature Appreciation Clubs, which not only help connect children to their environment, but also build bonds between people from different backgrounds. “In the north, where conflict took place, a lot of children of Tamil descent had not seen a Sinhalese kid before,” explains Dilhan. “Now they all study nature together. When you come together to study something beautiful, you become united in a good cause.” Another dual-purpose project helps the hungry to grow food while gently healing the environment. “We have an urban agriculture project that teaches people in deprived neighborhoods how to use waste objects as

containers for growing local vegetables,” says Dilhan. “You don’t need a big garden. We give them a product called biochar [a carbon-rich soil amendment created from tea waste] to help fertilize their produce.” This initiative encourages recycling and at the same time gives families access to homegrown organic food and increased purchasing power. These urban gardens also improve the soil and air and create habitat for bees and butterflies. Dilmah Conservation has undertaken projects with one of Sri Lanka’s oldest communities, the Veddah people, huntergatherers, who trace their ancestry to Neolithic times. Modern land ownership has made hunting problematic, so Dilmah Conservation set about finding ways to help them preserve their legacy while surviving in today’s world. “We wrote a book about

The purpose of life and the purpose of business is in pursuing the possibilities to change peoples’ lives.

说起与茶的渊源，Dilhan C. Fernando 表示：「哥哥和我见证着父亲建立起他的事业，我们可说在茶香下成长的。」父亲各取 Dilhan 及哥哥 Malik 一半名字组成家族品牌名称 Dilmah，贩售斯里兰卡当地栽种、加工及包装的顶级锡兰茶。他形容：「茶就是我们的一部分，其经营理念让我们深深着迷，并在国外学业告一段落后重归故里，投入到父亲的事业中。」创办人 Merrill J. Fernando 崇尚企业道德，经营事业为民服务，成为独树一帜的风格。 Dilhan 回忆：「从一开始我们就学到所背负的责任为何，人生及企业的目的为追求改变他人生活的各种可能。」于知名学府伦敦政经学院结束课业后，他选择回到斯里兰卡继承家族事业，学以致用也适得其所。 Dilhan 也负责管理 MJF 慈善基金会及

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企业的环保基金会 Dilmah Conservation。他说：「这份工作最棒的是可以发挥我在发展经济学方面的专长。」 Dilmah 会把部分税前盈余挹注予人道及保育相关计划，多处儿童发展中心可供茶园工人的子女选择入读，接受早期教育课程。整个社群因「小型创业计划」而受惠，获得创立或改善事业所需的设备及资金。 MJF 各中心也照顾了上千名来自贫苦地区的孩子，提供教育课程及生活技能训练，办理包括艺术、工艺及科技为主题的一系列活动。企业规模越大，获利越多，就能帮助更多的人。几十年来，斯里兰卡饱受各种艰困的考验。 2004 年南亚大海啸带走超过三万条人命，重创沿海地区，摧毁了数十万人的生计。北部及东部则是民间动乱不断，族

群分裂。 Dilmah Conservation 发起多个计划，像自然保育会 (Nature Appreciation Clubs) 除了让儿童接触并了解身边环境外，还能协助背景不同的人互相认识、建立情感纽带。 Dilhan 说明：「在北方，冲突随处可见，很多塔米尔后裔儿童没见过僧伽罗的小孩，但在计画之下他们也能一同学习大自然的奥秘。大家为一探美丽事物而来，彼此间的藩篱也会消弭。」另一具双重功能的计画则是在帮忙饥民栽种食物的同时，温和治疗所在环境。 Dilhan 表示：「贫民区绿化计画就是教导贫瘠区域的人们利用空瓶、排水管、轮胎或塑胶袋等废弃物品做成种植蔬菜的容器。取代田园土地的是能为作物施肥的生物碳 biochar ( 由茶叶废料转制、碳量丰富的土壤添加剂 )。」

Veddah heritage to help them engage with their history. We’re also trying to introduce crafts, so that in place of hunting and gathering they’re learning to weave designs from their cave paintings to generate income.” Dilmah’s approach to human service benefits from a business focus. “We believe that as business people we are uniquely able to look at a problem, identify a solution, and implement it. Aid agencies might look at things differently – they focus a lot on the process, which can create dependency, something we try to avoid.” There is a running theme of dignity in Dilmah’s work, and they often step in where many would hesitate, bringing needed diplomacy to areas shattered by unrest. A program to plant cashew trees in the east, where the land has been battered by cyclones and war, aims to generate income for the community

while providing shady ground cover. “Now that the trees have matured, we’ve set up a facility for people to come and roast the cashews. Then they can create their own brand, or we’ll buy the cashews back if they don’t have a market,” says Dilhan. During implementation of a project that was designed as both ecosystem intervention and income-generation for a community damaged by war, the opportunity arose for the people and the army to work in tandem. “We devised this concept of tree planting,” says Dilhan. “The army was able to help the community see them in a positive light. The army is actually handling the nurseries for us and helping the people water the trees.” Dilhan doesn’t let bygones stand in the way of helping the disadvantaged – being judgmental about the past he considers a misuse of energy better spent on healing

the present. “Our job is not to examine war crimes, we need to move forward,” he says. “It’s controversial, because people say, ‘You’re helping the army.’ But we’re trying to find a solution which respects the dignity of everyone involved. If you take sides, your project cannot work. If you get together and say, ‘We want to achieve this for the common good, let’s all work together,’ it has a greater chance. Ultimately, every successful project requires the participation of all the stakeholders.” Dilhan has no regrets about turning away from academia to pursue tea. “Everything at Dilmah is done with a lot of heart,” he says. “It’s a very unconventional business in that sense. Honestly speaking, the sense of fulfillment we feel in being able to change people’s lives and help the environment, it’s unmatched, it’s exciting! And all of it comes from tea.”

从一开始我们就学到所背负的责任为何，人生及企业的目的为追求改变他人生活的各种可能。

该计划鼓励回收，减低家庭废弃物数量，同时让贫苦家庭得以享有自产的有机食物、增加购买力，还能改善环境、土壤及空气质量，创造蜜蜂及蝴蝶的栖息之处。 Dilmah Conservation 也与斯里兰卡最古老的族群维达人合作执行扶植计划。这个以狩猎采集为生的群落，历史最早可追溯至新石器时代，然而狩猎对现在地主而言可能衍生诸多问题，因此基金会便想方设法，协助维达人在保存传统的同时，适应现今世界的生活。「基金会出版了有关维达文化遗产的专书，让族人了解自身历史，也引进工艺技术，让族人把洞穴画作织成工艺品贩售，增加收入。」 Dilmah 为人提供服务的理念也取自商业经营模式。「作为企业管理者，要有锁定问题的独到眼光、找出解决方法并彻底

执行。许多扶助机构看事情侧重于过程，因而造成依赖性，这正是我们试图避免的地方。」 Dilmah 进行的计划总以关怀人性尊严为出发点，深入他人不敢轻易涉足的地方，为动乱不安的地区带来必要的协调及秩序。腰果树种植计划选在受多次风暴及战火摧残的东边地带，希望为当地社群增加收入，同时藉由种树成荫降低周遭环境的气温。 Dilhan 分享最新进展：「现在树都已长大，也设立了专门机构供人们前来烘烤腰果，装袋回家。他们接着就能建立自己的品牌，找不到客人也没关系，可以由我们回购。」执行改善生态系统及为战火影响社区增加收入的计划过程中，也出现民众与军队携手合作的契机。Dilhan 说：「种树计划由我们提出，军队协助地方社区呵护环境、

悉心照料，苗圃培育工作都是他们一手包，包括指导居民浇水。」 Dilhan 也在努力避免过往嫌隙变成帮助弱势的绊脚石，疗愈现在显得更为实际。他强调：「检视战争罪行不是我们的工作，大家需要往前看。」「常有人指着我们说『你帮的是军队』，争议不断，但我们想找出解决之道，可以维护所有人的尊严。若可以『为共同利益来达成目标』的话，成功机率就大多了。话说回来，每个计画要能落实，需要所有相关的人参与才有可能。」 Dilhan 对于当初放弃研究来做茶的决定没有后悔：「在 Dilmah 做的每一件事都包含了许多心意，真的是与众不同的经营模式。老实说，能够改变他人生命、协助环保带来的成就感真的无与伦比！而一切的一切，都来自于茶。」 leaf to cup

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TK | LEAF TO CUP

PHOTO ESSAY

杯中之叶

leaf to cup In the mountains of Sri Lanka, the young leaves of Camellia sinensis take a fascinating journey on their way to becoming the world’s favorite beverage.

BY LUCY MORGAN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

LEAF TO CUP | TK |

OUTSIDE A BRIGHTLY PAINTED movie theater, two cream-colored calves sleep entwined in the dust as a bus goes by on its winding climb into the mountains. The folded hillocks all around are lined with curved rows of tea bushes that reveal sinews of rust-red soil, and the sky above is heavy with unshed rain. This is tea country â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the heart of beautiful, fertile Sri Lanka. The bus is making for the Dunkeld Estate at an altitude of around 5,000 feet, where wisps of cloud catch the mountains and acres of land are green with waxy-leaved tea shrubs. This verdant plantation, with its recently renovated 150-year-old

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tea-processing factory, is a six-hour drive from the capital city of Colombo. It is a journey that first passes through bustling villages, with crowds of shoppers, workers, and children in white school uniforms dodging tuk tuks that dart maniacally between lumbering buses and trucks. Villages are gradually replaced by sparser habitations, which give way at last to emerald fields studded with painted bungalows and a fast-flowing river of brown along the line of the hills. The red soil turns to slippery clay as the rain begins to fall. Among the rows of tea shrubs, silverbarked trees with slender trunks rise into the

grey canopy of sky. The hilltops are crested with evergreens, and sinuous rows of tea bushes follow the gentle lines of Nature rather than the rigid geometry imposed by man. There are monuments to other higher powers too: Lord Buddha oversees a valley from his hilltop seat, a statue of Saint John the Baptist welcomes visitors to a shop. The vulnerability of farming, even in such a magnificent rainforest setting, is recognized with reverence. Higher up the mountain, the soil darkens from red to brown. The river, fed by rain, bulges and wears at its banks. Standing on a hilltop, a group of tea pickers in

PHOTO ESSAY

The hills abound with symbols of reverence for the higher powers that oversee the land’s fertility. 山中随处可见神灵雕像，守护着一方沃土，让人肃然起敬。

bright clothing collects the tender leaves from upper branches of the bushes. On their backs the tea pickers carry woven baskets into which they place the leaves as they move along. When rain falls, they shelter under plastic capes, but their fingers keep working, plucking just the tip of the plant, a bud and a leaf. In many tea-producing countries, machines are used to collect the leaves, but hand picking ensures that this tea will reach the processing plant undamaged. The Dunkeld Estate overlooks the Castlereagh Reservoir in Dickoya, Sri Lanka’s central tea growing region. Long tin-roofed buildings squat on freshly dug soil. The

quaint-looking factory has recently been restored and equipped with state-of-theart machinery. A medical center, a childcare facility, and newly built housing close by are signs that the plantation workers are well provided for. Inside the factory, tea leaves arriving direct from the fields scent the warm air as they dry. Andrew Taylor, a descendant of the pioneering tea planter James Taylor, leads a group through the factory. “I’ve been working at this for over forty years,” he says. “I don’t have blood in my veins, I have tea.” He begins explaining the process by which fresh pickings are transformed into fragrant black tea.

斑驳明亮的戏院外，两只小牛在飞扬尘土中睡得酣熟，一辆巴士驰骋而过，顺着蜿蜒山径攀上山区。峦叠山丘与茶树排成的曲线并列，树丛下可见锈红色土壤，抬头仰望天空，则是一副山雨欲来的景象。此地正是美丽丰饶的茶之国度－斯里兰卡的中心地带。巴士往 Dunkeld Estate 地区前进，海拔达 5000 英尺，群山若隐若现，大片土地种满茶树，树叶犹如上蜡般亮滑，一片绿油油的景致。这片翠绿茶园，以及最近整修完毕、有 150 年历史的制茶工厂，距离首都可伦坡有约 6 小时车程。路上景色迭有变化，首先穿过熙攘的村落，人群中有商贩、工人，嘟嘟车在伐木车及卡车车阵中穿梭，身着白色校服的学生忙着闪躲，令人捏把冷汗；映入眼帘的还有空荡的茶垦区和青翠田园，上有彩绘平房星罗棋布，下有沿山丘绵延的啡色河流。茶树行列中，银色树皮的偏瘦树干在灰色苍穹中昂然而立。山顶长满绿植，树欉顺应自然适性成长，形成一道道柔滑迂回的流线，取代生硬的人为几何线条。在此也可见其他崇拜超自然力量的痕迹：安坐山顶、俯瞰山谷的佛陀像，或商店前客人可见的施洗者圣约翰像。茶农靠老天爷吃饭，面对不确定性，即便对如此丰饶的雨林大地，也充满敬畏之心。山势越高，土壤颜色由红转深褐。受大雨滋养的河流，河岸不断增厚冲蚀。一群采茶人身着明亮，栖于山丘顶端摘采茶树枝上端的嫩叶放入背上的编织茶篮，移动裕如。下雨则披上塑胶斗篷继续作业，目标自树顶摘采茶芽嫩叶。不少产茶国多以机器取代人力，但想确保茶叶送至工厂加工前毫发无伤，还是人工采茶最为保险。 Dunkeld Estate 俯瞰位于斯里兰卡产茶核心地区 Dickoya 区内的卡斯尔雷水库 (Castlereagh Reservoir)，刚翻新的土壤上可见一栋栋锡制长尾屋顶建筑。古色古香的工厂才刚翻修完成，并备有最新研发的机械工具。邻近的医疗中心、托育设施及新竣工的房宅，无一不是茶园工人工作环境优渥的证明。工厂内，放干茶田直送的茶叶时散发的香气在温暖空气中弥漫。茶垦技术先驱 James Taylor 后代 Andrew Taylor 为工厂内一组团队的领导。他表示：「这一行我已经做了超过 40 年，我的血管里流的不是血，而是茶。」他也毫不藏私地解释鲜采茶叶如何加工，变成香气浓郁的红茶。 leaf to cup

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TK | LEAF TO CUP

PHOTO ESSAY

LEAF TO CUP | TK |

YOUNG LEAVES ARE HARVESTED EARLY in the morning and brought straight to the factory for processing. The first stage is withering, drying the leaves to remove 50 percent of their moisture. They lie on withering troughs for sixteen to eighteen hours with a fan blowing air beneath them. Then they are transferred to a sifting machine, a juddering platform that agitates the wilted leaves to remove any debris. At this point, the manager decides on the length of oxidation, between two and three hours, depending on the weather.

TK | leaf to cup

新叶一早摘采完即送到工厂加工 , 第一步骤便是萎凋 , 移除一半的水分 , 让茶叶变得干燥。萎凋槽下方设有电扇 , 直吹茶叶 16 到 18 小时 , 后送至筛选机 , 透过不断振动的机器平台过滤干燥茶叶 , 淘汰不良部分。此时 , 制茶师须决定每批特定茶叶氧化的时间长度 , 约需时 2 到 3 小时 , 随天气情况而定。

PHOTO ESSAY

But before oxidation can take place, the cell walls of the leaves must be ruptured to allow the precious flavors to exude. The leaves are taken to the rolling machine, a huge cylindrical device, where they are processed for about twenty minutes before being chopped in a machine called a Rotorvane. The size of the leaf particles affects the flavor of the brewed tea – the smaller the pieces, the stronger the tea – and different markets around the world prefer different strengths in their black tea.

但氧化前 , 须确定茶叶细胞壁已破裂 , 才能让珍贵的香气溢出 , 茶叶须先经大型圆柱型滚轮机处理约 20 分钟 , 才能送到称为洛托凡 ( Rotorvane ) 的切割机加工。茶叶碎片大小决定了煮茶后的味道 , 碎片越小味道越浓 - 世界各地市场对于红茶浓度的需求也有所不同。

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THE FRAGRANCE OF TEA INTENSIFIES in the rolling room as various pieces of machinery thud, whirr, and whoosh. Finally, the tea is spread out on slabs close to meshed windows where oxidation can take place, a simple and natural process in which polyphenols from the ruptured cells inside the leaves make contact with the air. The oxidized tea leaves begin taking on a beautiful copper hue and a heady, slightly fermented aroma. They remain here for the balance of the oxidation period before passing through a tea dryer, a machine that halts the oxidation process and seals in all the flavors. The tea at this stage still contains fibrous matter, remnants of veins and stalks, the skeletons of the leaves. Its texture is uneven, with varying sizes

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滚动室中的茶叶随着不断撞击嘶嘶声不停，嗡嗡作响，香气益发浓烈，最后于网状窗旁的平板上摊平以利进行氧化作用。此一简单且自然的过程，让茶叶内的多酚透过破裂的细胞壁接触空气。氧化后的茶叶染上漂亮的金铜色泽，散发扑鼻、稍微发酵后的气息。茶叶于氧化过程达到平衡状态后才送至干燥机阻断氧化，将所有味道锁在茶叶中。此一阶段的茶叶仍保有纤维组织、残留叶脉及叶柄，树叶的骨架大致还在，因此质地

P H O TFOE AETSUS R A EY

of particles, and it requires cleaning and grading. First, the tea goes through an extractor, which picks out the fibrous parts of the mixture by means of static electricity. The fiber is recycled as fertilizer in the tea fields, nourishing the plants with its high nitrogen content. Passing through a grading machine, the tea is sorted according to particle size. Finally, it is packed in paper sacks. The leaves have been much diminished in weight and volume – 1,000 kilos of picked leaves yield just 250 of finished tea. During processing, the tea has given back its fiber to the earth and its water to the air so that it can ultimately give its concentrated flavor to those who drink it.

并不平均，碎片大小不一，需要进一步清理及分类。此一阶段的第一关是萃取机，以静电抽取出茶叶堆中的纤维部份，经回收后可转做茶田的肥料，富含的高氮量让茶树更为茁壮。接着是筛选机，依据大小分类茶叶，最后就能装入纸袋。此时茶叶的重量及大小均已大幅减少，每采收 1000 公斤茶叶，只能制出 250 公斤的成品。加工过程中，茶叶的纤维回归土地，水分于空气中挥发，最终才能成为品茗者口中浓醇的红茶。 leaf to cup

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PHOTO ESSAY

THIS RICH BLACK TEA, processed so close to the fields where it grew, now requires tasting by a team of experts whose palates are so sensitive that they can determine at one sip the exact blend that the leaves are destined for. Samples are sent back to Colombo, where a dedicated tasting team at Dilmah Tea’s headquarters sips 10,000 cups each week. The teas are of various colors, ranging from pale gold to deep brown, and the leaves are left in a clump for the tasters to inspect. They can tell a great deal about a tea simply by using their eyes – the color, the granularity of the leaves, the uniformity of the leaf size. A taster takes a mouthful and slurps loudly – slurping activates the olfactory system, which is crucial to detecting the tea’s nuances and subtle tones. Mere sipping gives access only to the base notes; slurping admits the taster to the full complexities of the tea’s flavor. Moving quickly along a line of cups, the taster first observes the leaves closely and then slurps before spitting the tea into a capacious spittoon and shouting clipped instructions to his partner, who scribbles notes onto a list. The pair is methodically working out the ultimate destination of the tea – will it feature in a breakfast blend, in tea bags? Across the courtyard, the packaging factory is staffed by a cheerful team of workers, bustling, carrying, sorting boxes, operating machinery. One corner smells of summer as a cluster of women pack sweet-scented strawberry-flavored tea. On the other side of the factory floor, a large contraption about eight feet high feeds a stream of thinly cut leaves onto a line of perforated paper, which is folded and sealed before tags and strings are attached. A robot arm places clutches of these individual teabags into oblong cardboard boxes which are shunted onto a metal plate for weighing. Any that fall short are rejected and readied for repacking, while full boxes are taken away for distribution. Their contents, when brought back to life with boiling water, will tell the full story of the climate, the terroir, and the extraordinary human endeavor that go into creating the perfect cup of tea.

此一风味浓厚的红茶于茶田旁就近加工完成，接下来的命运就要交由一群味觉极为敏锐的品茶专家来定夺，只消一口就能决定茶叶属性。样茶送回可伦坡的 Dilmah 总部，团队每周平均品评多达一万杯茶。茶的色泽各有不同，从白金色到深咖啡色，茶叶成堆放置供品茶者仔细检查。他们眼光锐利，从颜色、颗粒度及大小的整齐度即可知晓大概。品茶专家一次一口，大声啜饮，此一动作启动嗅觉系统，感受茶叶的各式细节及细微韵味。小口喝茶只能抓到基本的味道，出声啜饮对比之下可引领品茶人进入茶叶的堂奥，细细品评茶所蕴含的各种繁复滋味。茶杯一字排开，只见品茶人移动快速，首先近距离观察茶叶，啜饮后将茶吐进大型茶盂，接着扯嗓说出简短指示，一旁伙伴则在清单上速记，相当熟练。两人一组，合作无间，这将决定茶叶最终何去何从，是否能包装成小茶包作早餐茶享用？包装工厂整个庭院四处可见工人团队的身影，忙进忙出、搬运、分类装箱或操作机具，一片生气勃勃。其中一角洋溢著夏天的气息，一群女工正在包装滋味香甜的草莓茶；工厂另一端，八英呎高的大型工具机正在运转，将薄切茶叶放在穿孔纸带，折叠过封后穿过线绳，附上标签就是常见的茶包。接着机械手臂登场，抓起一把茶包放进矩形硬纸箱内，装箱后转送金属秤台上量重。重量不足者须退回重新包装，足重茶包箱过关后即可准备配送。茶包用热水泡开后美妙滋味再现，似能窥见制茶过程的全貌，栽种时的天候及风土也能了然于心，一杯无懈可击的美味红茶需要投入多少人力及用心，不言可喻。

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LEAF TO CUP | TK |

CHALLENGE

为茶痴狂

high on tea Teams from Hong Kong and Macau help to transform the world’s concept of high tea as they compete for the field’s most prestigious global award. INSIDE A QUIET KITCHEN, Ellen Dong, Captain, MGM Macau Pastry Bar, is dressed in a red qipao and silk slippers, her hair fastened with a jeweled gold pin. Teammate Kenny Chen, Chef de Partie Pastry, MGM Macau, wears an ensemble of colorful pants and vest with a flamboyant ribbon bow tie. Against the drab steel of the industrial cooking equipment and stark white walls they look like a pair of exotic birds. A television camera circles like a kite as chef Chen plates up a salad of vivid leaves. Dong and Chen are in the prep kitchen, assembling their intricate high tea delicacies before presenting them to a panel of four superstar judges: Bernd Uber, recipient of the Sidney Taylor Memorial Black Hat Award; Dilhan C. Fernando, Director Dilmah School of Tea and visionary force behind Dilmah Tea Gastronomy; Simon Gault, judge on MasterChef New Zealand; and Peter Kuruvita, award-winning chef and restaurateur. The team from MGM Macau, including Executive Pastry Chef Holger Deh as mentor, has at last reached the global finals of the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge, held July 1-4 in Colombo, Sri Lanka. Theirs is one of the twenty-one teams from fourteen countries that have gathered to present their reimagined versions of high tea to the judges. Hong Kong is represented by teams from both the Hong Kong Cricket Club and Island Shangri-La. During the opening ceremony, judge Dilhan C. Fernando explains the need for updating the accepted approach to high tea:

Tea is served to the judges. 参赛者为评审们上茶。

宁静的厨房里，澳门美高梅调酒师董香亭身穿红色旗袍，足踏丝履，头绾金簪；她的队友饼厨陈锦松身着成套五彩长裤与背心，脖子前用缎带系上华丽的蝴蝶结。在暗黄色现代烹调设备与皎白墙壁的衬托下，两人像是一对异国鸟儿。此时陈主厨正将鲜活缤纷的生菜沙拉摆盘，身旁一台电视摄影机像风筝般绕着他转。两人正在做最后准备。下午茶点摆设好后就要端出去给四位巨星级的评审鉴赏。他们分别是获得 Sidney Taylor Memorial Black Hat Award 的 Bernd Uber、Dilmah 茶

学院院长暨 Dilmah Tea Gastonomy 发想人与幕后功臣 Dilhan C. Fernando、纽西兰 Master Chef 评审 Simon Gault 和获奖无数的大厨兼餐厅老板 Peter Kuruvita。美高梅一团连同导师－糕饼行政主厨 Holger Deh 是晋级总决赛的队伍之一，获选参加 7 月 1 日至 4 日在斯里兰卡可伦坡举办的 Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge 下午茶挑战赛。比赛有来自 14 个国家的 21 支队伍参加，他们不远千里来到可伦坡，将创新的梦幻下午茶呈现在评审面前。香港的参赛代表为香港木球会和港岛香格里拉大酒店。 leaf to cup

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CHALLENGE

“We are not here to honor eighteenth-century culinary traditions, we are in the twenty-first century. The world will look back on these contestants as pioneers, as they create a high tea which will engage a new generation.” For the past eight years, the company that was first to grow, pick, process, and package its own tea entirely in Sri Lanka has challenged the culinary world with the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge. It has designed a competition in which tea must be featured as more than simply a drink to wash down sandwiches and scones – it must be used inventively throughout the entire high tea experience. The entrants are required to use tea as a key ingredient in pastries and savories and also to incorporate it creatively in original cocktails and mocktails. In addition, they must devise imaginative pairings by where tea and food mutually highlight each other’s flavor notes. As in past years, culinary teams the world over accepted the 2015 challenge and responded with inspiring high teas. Now in Colombo the remaining finalists have one last chance to capture the prize with their ingenuity. Among such a talented field, Judge Uber can only confess, “I simply can’t predict who is going to win.” Each team is made up of a chef, a member of the front-of-house team, and a mentor. The mentor is strictly prohibited from assisting with any food preparation. “We’ve been together a long time,” says mentor Simon Evans, Executive Chef, Hong Kong Cricket Club, explaining what makes his role so tough. “My team has grown up with me – it’s so hard not being able to help them!” The table settings look very different from the starched linen, patterned china, and silver cutlery often associated with traditional high tea. Each team at the Dilmah Challenge has designed its menu and table setting around a theme representing its home country. The Hong Kong Cricket Club team has chosen the territory’s handover as its theme. The table is decorated with fun totems of 1997 Hong Kong: a tea caddy, a junk, a red telephone box,

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在开幕典礼上，评审 Dilhan C. Fernando 说明了为何需要崭新的下午茶制作方法：「我们聚集在此，不是为了赞扬 18 世纪的烹调传统。我们身处在 21 世纪，未来，世界将视这些参赛者为料理界的先锋，因为他们创造的下午茶将会引领一个新世代。」过去八年，这个世上首家在斯里兰卡完成种植、挑选、处理、包装自家茶叶的公司，透过 Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge 下午茶挑战赛向料理界广发英雄帖。参赛者须用创新手法将茶融入在下午茶体验当中，除了将茶用作甜点或咸点里的主要食材，还要将茶纳入自创鸡尾酒和仿鸡尾酒饮料当中。不仅如此，还要设计佐茶美馔，让食物与茶的风味相得益彰。消息一出，全球各地的料理好手纷纷接下战帖。而在可伦坡举行的总决赛里，

晋级的队伍将享有以创意赢得奖项的机会。然而料理界人才济济，就连评审 Uber 也不禁承认：「说真的，我完全无法预测谁会赢。」每个参赛队伍皆由一位主厨、一位外场人员和一位导师组成，但导师不能参与食物准备过程。来自香港木球会的行政总厨 Simon Evans 担任导师，并表示这个角色很难担当：「我们共事已久，比赛中不能帮助他们实在让我很难受！」挑战赛的餐桌摆设与传统下午茶必备的浆烫亚麻布、纹饰瓷器、纯正刀具大相径庭。每个参赛队伍都要设计代表自己国家的菜单与符合该主题的餐桌布置。香港木球会选了经历政权移交为主题，餐桌用与 1997 年香港相关的趣味图腾装饰，包括一位茶叶球童、一艘帆船、一个红色电话亭和一台红色公车，菜单甚至印在仿真的英国护照里。

↖ One winning team will be awarded the leaf and hand artisan trophy. 冠军队伍将获颁这座手拈茶叶造型的精美奖杯。 ↑ Elaborate care and skill go into the presentation of each dish offered to the judges. 呈现给评审的料理无一不是煞费苦心、出神入化的杰作。 → Judge Dilhan C. Fernando discusses his findings over a cup of tea. 评审Dilhan C. Fernando与旁人讨论品茶后感。

CHALLENGE

a red bus. The menus are printed inside realistic faux British passports. The Island Shangri-La team has created a masculine setting, with a statue of Bruce Lee presiding over the table, a nunchaku casually draped around his neck. Swirls of mist are pumped out by a model Chinese mountain peak. “Bruce Lee is an iconic Hong Kong figure,” explains Island ShangriLa Lobby Lounge Service Manager Ernest Wong. Judge Kuruvita is so charmed by the concept that he captures the table setting on his mobile phone. MGM Macau’s “Progressive Macanese” theme has its menu glazed on blue and white Portuguese ceramic tiles. Four iPads, positioned like modernistic side plates, play a slideshow of the team assembling the very

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dishes that the judges are to sample. Transparent baubles containing treats on the high tea menu hang from the centerpiece, convoluted branches of a glass wishing tree. The team’s colorful outfits reflect the influences of both China and Portugal on the territory’s culture and add to the visual statement of their presentation. The teams are under strict rules of timing: ten hours for mise en place, thirty minutes to set up the tea table, thirty minutes in the prep kitchen. Once they start their service to the judges, they must complete it within thirty-five minutes or face penalties. Judge Uber explains the strict schedule: “If contestants don’t serve all their food or tea within the time frame, we aren’t able to taste it, and so they lose points. It’s heartbreaking when that

happens – but this is the global final. There is no room for error.” The teams are able to watch a large screen with a stopwatch countdown as they present. But it only adds to the tension, and nerves inevitably begin to show through – voices quaver and hands wobble, but the determination to make the best possible impression never falters. Judges take their places at the tables and keep on tasting their way through savories and sweetmeats, cocktails and mocktails. They sample dishes all day long with just a short break – surprisingly – for lunch. “You can’t judge on an empty stomach,” says Uber. “You have to eat breakfast, otherwise the first thing you try will taste amazing, even if it’s quite average. To be objective you need to still the animal hunger.”

Chef Kenny Chen (left) makes painstaking adjustments to MGM Macau’s dazzling table setting that features hollow glass ornaments dangling from a wishing tree centerpiece. The team employed both traditional and modern motifs representing the territory of Macau in an arrangement clearly intended to grab the attention of the judges. 澳门美高梅光彩夺目的餐桌摆饰以一棵许愿树为中心，枝条上满挂着空心玻璃吊饰，饼厨陈锦松 (左)正一丝不苟地逐一调整。此参赛队伍以澳门传统文化和现代化为主题，欲以别出心裁的摆设攫获评审目光。

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CHALLENGE

Because presentation is such a critical part of the competition, each drink, each dish needs to be introduced and explained to the judges in the most informative and entertaining way possible. Island Shangri-La Hong Kong delights the panel with their Bruce Lee theme, beginning with a clip of his famous “be like water” speech. Lobby Lounge Service Manager Ernest Wong and Pastry Artist Alex Ng practice Kung Fu moves during the presentation as they talk the judges through their sequence of courses named after iconic Hong Kong films: Enter the Dragon, The Big Boss, The Way of the Dragon. Their performance elicits smiles and vigorous applause at the end. A delicate balance must be maintained between tradition and innovation in both table settings and menu choices. MGM Macau makes a big impact with their dish named “SMOKED.” Each judge receives a box full of scented smoke. Inside is a glass tube layered with chai masala crème brûlée, Dilmah Yata Watte jelly, and white truffle vanilla gel. The judges suck out the contents with a sharp pop. The molecular techniques used to create the dish bring the team’s menu into the modern era. By contrast, their rye sandwiches of smoked salmon and beetroot jelly recall the more traditional flavors of a Victorian high tea. One task each team must perform is the brewing of a perfect cup of black tea in front of the judges while at the same time explaining the process. The steps include achieving proper water temperature, brew time, fragrance, and rich reddish color. The judges concentrate in absolute silence as they inhale the rising steam and evaluate the finished infusions. Mentors watch closely for any sign of approval, but the judges, taking notes on clipboards discreetly placed on their laps, give very little away. They sip with deliberation and talk in whispers to one another. During the presentation, mentors, who must restrain themselves from lending the slightest aid to their protégés, are visibly on edge. “Those boys mean the world to me,”

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← Concentration intensifies under the competition’s strict time pressures. 面对严格的竞赛时间压力，参赛者专注力更是集中。 ↑ The inventive interplay of ingredients redefines the concept of high tea. 各种食材空前创新的交互作用下重塑了下午茶的定义。 ↗ Judge Peter Kuruvita ponders the complexities of a tea-inspired drink. 评审Peter Kuruvita思忖着创意茶饮的繁复内涵。

港岛香格里拉大酒店的摆设则充满了男性气概，一座李小龙的雕像雄踞桌上，脖子两旁挂着双节棍，还有一座正从巅峰吞云吐雾的中国大山模型。「李小龙是经典的香港代表人物。」港岛香格里拉大酒店的大堂酒廊服务经理 Ernest Wong 解释道。这个设计概念深深掳获了评审 Kuruvita 的心，他甚至用手机把整个餐桌摆设拍下来。澳门美高梅的主题为展现澳门的现代和传统特色，他们将菜单釉烧在蓝白色的葡式瓷砖上，餐桌摆饰为一棵垂吊着玻璃球的许愿树，里头装着下午茶菜单上的糕点。作品外貌反映出澳门深受中国和葡萄牙影响的中西合璧文化，增添了作品的视觉深度。总决赛对时间的规定十分严格：十小时准备时间，30 分钟摆设餐桌，30 分钟最后摆设。评鉴一旦开始，参赛者须在 35 分钟之内完成服务与介绍。评审 Uber 解释道：「如果参赛者无法在限时内完成所有食物和茶饮的准备工作，我们无法品鉴。但这毕

竟是全球总决赛，不容许出任何差错。」参赛者在介绍作品时，可以看到大萤幕上的倒数计时，这么做其实会让参赛者更紧张，但想让评审留下最佳印象的决心却绝不动摇。评审会花上一整天的时间品尝，期间仅有一小段午餐时间。Uber 说：「评审不能空腹，一定要吃早餐，否则第一个吃的即使品质一般，也永远会觉得最美味。为保持客观，评审必须抑制住原始的饥饿感。」呈现作品是竞赛里的重要一环，参赛者要将每份饮品、料理介绍给评审，尽可能提供充足资讯，最好还能趣味横生。港岛香格里拉大酒店的李小龙主题就让评审们眼睛一亮。大堂酒廊服务经理 Ernest Wong 和饼艺创作师 Alex Ng 甚至一面比划功夫招式，一面向评审说明料理顺序「龙争虎斗、唐山大兄、猛龙过江」是根据经典香港电影命名。他们的表现引发众多笑声与热烈鼓掌。此外，餐桌摆设和菜单内容亦须兼顾传统与创新，并在保持微妙平衡，例如澳

门美高梅的 SMOKED 料理就引起极大回响。他们发给每位评审一盒薰香，盒子里有一支玻璃管，里头铺着一层香料奶茶法式烤布蕾、Dilmah Yata Watte 果冻和白松露香草凝胶，评审们用一根管子进行吸食。这道料理使用了分子技术，代表此队伍菜单的现代时尚，而他们的烟熏鲑鱼裸麦三明治和甜菜冻，则令人怀想起维多莉亚时代传统风味的下午茶。另一项任务是队伍要在评审面前沏出一杯完美红茶，还要说明过程和步骤，包括调和水温、沏煮时间、香味、浓郁的茶红色等，评审们则屏气凝神地细嗅茶香，品鉴沏好的茶茗。导师们仔细观察评审的表情，但评审们将笔记板放在大腿上，小心翼翼地写着。他们若有所思，不时交头接耳。由香港木球会餐饮部资深督导陈义招和扒房资深厨师何永康组成的团队显然以威尔斯蛋糕获得了评审的青睐。他们自创的传统威尔斯蛋糕是一种类似司康饼的速制面包，但不是放进烤箱烘培，而是放在浅锅上烤。 leaf to cup

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CHALLENGE

says Evans, hovering over his Hong Kong Cricket Club team as it presents its handover-themed menu, “and I know they’ve got a really good chance.” The team of Jason Chan, Senior Supervisor, Food & Beverage Service, and Rex Ho, Senior Chef de Partie, definitely captures the judges’ attention with their version of a traditional Welsh cake, a scone-like quick bread toasted on a griddle instead of being baked in an oven. It is flavored with apple and paired with Dilmah Nuwara Eliya Afternoon Tea. “This is just perfect,” says judge Gault. Judge Kuruvita concurs: “Welsh cakes should replace scones everywhere.” The judges then disappear for an afternoon of discussion, comparing scores and debating who will take first place. There is an entire day to pass waiting for the results, and the judges remain inscrutable. Exhausted, the teams agree that the experience was tough but worthwhile. Jason Chan probably speaks for every contestant: “I was pretty nervous, but it was a great experience.” The winners are announced the following evening at a spectacular gala dinner in the company of His Excellency the President of Sri Lanka Maithripala Sirisena, Prime

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Minister Ranil Wickremesinghe, WorldChefs Managing Director Ragnar Fridriksson, Dilmah founder Merrill J. Fernando, and his sons Dilhan and Malik. Fernando addresses the guests amid a fanfare of popping corks. The global champion will become Dilmah’s brand ambassador and have the opportunity to represent the company at global events for one year. The winner will also be lavished with a luxury holiday in Sri Lanka at Cape Weligama and Ceylon Tea Trails. Waiting on one corner of the stage is the gleaming trophy in the shape of a hand holding a tea leaf. It represents the human skill and effort behind the production of hand-picked tea. A deep blue topaz in the palm stands for the island of Sri Lanka, the land whose terroir and climate produce the famous flavor of Ceylon tea. The global winner is at last announced. It is the team from New Zealand’s Museum Art Hotel, who are congratulated for excelling in the areas of appreciation of tea, tea-inspired gastronomy, and mixology. Laurent Loudeac and Camille Furminieux, who accept the trophy as showers of golden confetti rain down from the ceiling, express their gratitude for the honor.

The judges, in addition to awarding this top prize, have each chosen a team to recognize for its outstanding high tea presentation. The Hong Kong Cricket Club team receives judge Uber’s award, in addition to coming in second overall in the competition. “I’m over the moon,” says mentor Evans. MGM Macau wins the prize for “Most Tea-Inspired Table Layout” and Island Shangri-La Hong Kong receives the “Most Passionate Performance” award. “And they get to keep their jobs,” jokes the team’s mentor David Choi, Senior Sous Chef. “But seriously, I’m proud of them.” The competition has been part of a new beginning in the tradition of high tea, with each of the teams making a distinct contribution to a broadened vision of tea’s versatility as an essential ingredient. Whether served simply, crafted into a sophisticated molecular dish, or mixed in a cocktail, one thing is clear: its place in the institution known as high tea is undergoing a fundamental redefinition. High tea has become an exciting contemporary ritual with tea as the star, and it all began with the advent of the Dilmah Real High Tea Challenge.

Amidst the exotic and the fanciful, there are also – to the delight of the judges – dishes that are simply presented and simply elegant. 各式玲琅满目，奇异独特的作品中，设计简约、单纯典雅的点心也欣然深得评审的喜爱。

这道料理用了苹果调味，并佐以 Dilmah Nuwara Eliya 下午茶。评审 Gault 说他们的威尔斯蛋糕「太完美了」，评审 Kuruvita 也赞同，甚至表示「威尔斯蛋糕应该完全取代司康饼。」品鉴结束后，评审有一个下午的时间来交换意见，决定第一名。结果揭晓前有一天的等候时间。参赛者们相当疲惫，但他们表示比赛过程虽艰辛，经验却很值得。如同督导陈义招一语道出了所有参赛者的心声：「我非常紧张，但这是个很棒的经验。」比赛结果于隔天傍晚在的盛大晚宴上公布，出席贵宾包括斯里兰卡总统阁下 Maithripala Sirisena、总理 Ranil Wickremesinghe、世厨理事长 Ragnar Fridriksson、 Dilmah 创办人 Merrill J. Fernando 和两个儿子 Dilhan 及 Malik。伴随着不绝于耳的软木塞开瓶声，Fernando 首先向来宾致意，说明此次比赛的世界冠军将成为 Dilmah 的品牌大使，有机会代表公司出席国际场合一年，还能享受斯里兰卡瓦勒迦玛海角和锡兰茶香古道奢华之旅。晚宴台上一角静候着的，是一座闪闪发光的奖杯，以一只轻捏茶叶的手象征生产手摘茶背后付出的技艺和努力。手掌中深蓝色宝石则象征斯里兰卡，这座风土和气候孕育出举世闻名锡兰茶的岛国。千呼万盼，终于到了结果揭晓的一刻。获胜的是来自纽西兰的 Museum Art Hotel 团队，因成功彰显茶的内涵、将茶引入珍馐佳酿而备受赞扬与肯定。 Laurent Loudeac 和 Camille Furminieux 上台接过奖杯，享受着顶上倾泄而下的彩带雨，并致感谢词。除了颁发冠军奖座，评审还各自选出一个队伍，表扬他们出神入化的下午茶制作技艺。香港木球会获得评审 Uber 的青睐，同时也拿下整体竞赛第二名。澳门美高梅获得「最佳茶创意餐桌摆设奖」。「热情满分奖」则颁给港岛香格里拉大酒店。传统下午茶正以崭新面貌崛起，这场挑战赛仅是这股潮流的开端，而每个参赛队伍都以茶作为中心食材，为拓展茶的可塑性做出了偌大贡献。不论是单纯地沏茶、将茶融合进复杂的分子料理或与鸡尾酒调制，下午茶惯例里「茶」的定义正在经历天翻地覆的转变。下午茶已成为一种当代迷人的仪式，而且茶一跃成为主角。这一切都要归功于 Dilmah Real High Tea Challeaf to cup

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佳茗芳名录

tea portraits From one species of Asian shrub has sprung a whole brood of refreshing teas, all bearing a family resemblance, each one unique.

NO ONE CAN SAY when leaves from the Camellia sinensis 没有人知道，茶树上的叶子何时开始 plant were first steeped in hot water to make the drink 被放进水中，冲泡成我们今天畅饮的 we call tea. Chinese folklore maintains that it started 4,752 茶。中国传说有载，距今 4,752 年前， years ago when the emperor Shennong, a mythical figure 那个带来农业技术及草药，深受人们 revered for bringing agriculture and herbal medicine to 尊敬的神农氏在路旁煮着开水，几片 the people, was boiling water by the roadside. Withered 从野生灌木上凋落的叶子飘进沸腾的 leaves from a wild shrub drifted into the caul釜中。他发现这经过叶子 BY dron, and the emperor was highly pleased with 浸泡的饮品可口、提神， MARILYN BURKLEY the delicious, stimulating, healthful result. 又有益健康，感到由衷的 Since that fortuitous event, tea has spread 喜悦。 PHOTOGRAPHY BY around the globe to become the most popular 正因为这偶然的契 DAVID HARTUNG beverage of all time. The rituals surrounding its 机，茶开始流传到世界各 cultivation, preparation, and consumption have 地，成为有史以来最受欢 woven themselves into the fabric of cultures both East 迎的饮品。茶的种植、烹煮和消费， and West. 交织成东西方文化不可或缺的一部分。 Japan was first to adopt the Chinese practice, and its 日本是第一个接纳汉文化的国家，精 elaborate tea ceremony elevated the brewing and service 致的茶道将泡茶和奉茶升级成一种仪 of the drink into a cult. By the 1700s, Britain was mad 式。到了 18 世纪，英国人对喝茶近乎 about the stuff. Afternoon tea with cucumber sandwiches 狂热。下午茶配上小黄瓜三明治和海 and Victoria sponge eventually took on aspects of an 绵蛋糕，成了上流社会的例行公事。 upper-class rite, and once mass production brought down 当茶开始大量生产，高昂的价格有所 its prohibitive price, tea became the national drink. 回落，便摇身一变成为人人必尝的「国 Science, in accord with the ancient legend of 饮」。 Shennong, has established that tea’s origins are indeed in 经科学考究，茶的发源地确是中 China. And modern research suggests there may be sub国，与神农氏的传说相辅相成。现代 stantial health benefits from the anti-inflammatory and 的研究更指出，茶叶中的多酚具有抗 antioxidant properties in tea’s polyphenols. This and our 炎及抗氧化的特性，有益身体健康。 taste buds confirm that the emperor was emphatically 这事实和我们的味蕾都能为神农氏背 correct about the delights of drinking tea – in all its mani书，不管怎么说，喝茶都是相当令人 fold variety. 喜悦的一件事。

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Oolong 乌龙茶

The middle child of the family, oolong comes between minimally oxidized green tea and fully oxidized black. Varying between 8 and 85 percent in oxidation levels, they have a correspondingly broad range of flavor profiles. Most famous among Chinese oolongs is Tie Guan Yin from Anxi in Fujian province. Named for the goddess of mercy, this tea undergoes a complex multi-step process that was long kept secret. There are numerous types of Tie Guan Yin, with varying times of harvest and degrees of roasting, but the tea is prized for its smooth, mellow, earthy character with fresh floral overtones. The rarest and costliest oolong is Da Hong Pao, grown on Wuyi Mountain, where three venerated bushes reputedly dating from the Song dynasty still grow. An ounce of this tea can sell for USD35,000.

乌龙可说是茶家族里的「中生代」，发酵程度介于几乎未发酵的绿茶和完全发酵的红茶之间。乌龙的发酵程度最低可能只有

8%，最高可达 85%，各种乌龙茶的口味因而迥异，各具特色。中国最著名的乌龙茶是来自福建省安溪的铁观音。这种名字取自观音菩萨的乌龙茶，制作过程步骤繁多而复杂，长久以来都是祖传的机密。铁观音的种类相当多样，多根据收获的季节和焙烤的程度来分门别类。但不管是哪一种，都以滑顺、圆润和朴实的口感，以及新鲜的花草香著称。大红袍是最稀有而昂贵的乌龙茶，生长于武夷山。据说自宋朝栽种至今的三种茶树仍在茂盛的生长着。这种茶一盎司就要价 35,000 美元。

Herbal 花草茶

In some countries the term “herbal tea” is banned, since, strictly speaking, tea must contain leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant to be so called. And while “tisane” is the proper name for an herbal infusion, this stepchild of the tea family is nonetheless a welcome addition. Concocted from an endless list of plant materials, including flowers, fruits, seeds, leaves, and roots, herbal teas date back to ancient Egypt and have always been an important part of Traditional Chinese Medicine. While most sold commercially are perfectly safe, some may harbor natural toxins. Comfrey, for example, is a plant long used in therapeutic herbal teas, but it contains alkaloids that can cause serious liver damage. Many other tisanes, of course, provide proven health benefits. Hibiscus tea with rose hips, one of the most popular around the world, brims with natural vitamin C, beta-carotene, and lycopene. And for those who cannot tolerate the stimulant, herbal infusions have one great advantage over genuine tea – they are free of caffeine.

在一些国家，用「花草茶」这个词来称呼这种饮品，是不被允许的。因为严格来说，内容物含有茶树叶子的，才能叫做「茶」。但不管用何种名字来称呼，这位茶家族中的继子受欢迎程度都不容小觑。花草茶无疑是由难以数计的草本原料制成，花、果实、种子、叶和根都包括在内。它的历史可追溯到古埃及，而在中国，花草茶一直都在传统医学中占有一席之地。虽然市面上大部分的花草茶都安全无虞，但有些仍可能含有天然毒物。举例来说，紫草是一种长期用于花草茶疗法中的植物，但它含有植物碱，可能会对肝脏造成严重损害。当然，其他花草茶被证实是有益健康的。玫瑰果木槿花茶是世上最受欢迎的花草茶之一，富含维他命 C、β- 胡萝卜素和茄红素。而对无法摄取咖啡因的人来说，花草茶有一点乐胜真正的茶 — — 它们一点咖啡因都没有。

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Blooming 香片茶

Also known as flowering tea, blooming tea is made by wrapping dried tea leaves around one or more dried flowers and hand-sewing with cotton thread to form a tight ball or rosette. When steeped in hot water, the tea leaves gracefully unfurl to resemble a blossoming flower or an entire bouquet. To enhance the display, blooming tea is best infused in a glass teapot. Common flowers for the centers include lily, hibiscus, jasmine, carnation, and globe amaranth. The outer “petals” may be composed of green, white, or black tea, but always selected from the best whole leaves. Blooming tea originated in China’s province of Yunnan and is now produced in Fujian as well. Claims are often made that it is an ancient art form, but indications are that blooming tea was invented in recent decades.

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香片茶又名开花茶，其制法是把干燥的茶叶用一朵或数朵花包覆，再以棉线手缝，做成球形或玫瑰状。将茶包放进热水时，茶叶会优雅地散开来，就像绽放的花朵或一整束花束。香片茶多半以玻璃壶冲泡，较能清楚看见茶叶绽开的美。百合、木槿、茉莉、康乃馨和千日红常置于中央，扮演「花心」的角色，外围的「花瓣」则由绿茶、白茶或红茶的茶叶组成，通常是经过拣选、形状完整的茶叶。香片茶起源于中国云南省，现在也在福建省制造。常有人宣称香片茶是种古老的艺术形式，但种种迹象指出，它在近几十年才被发明出来。

Matcha 抹茶

In 1191, the monk Eisai traveled from China to Japan, bringing Zen Buddhism and its ritual methods of preparing powdered green tea. Over the centuries these teadrinking rites passed to the warrior and cultured classes, eventually becoming the Way of Tea, or the tea ceremony, with its highly developed philosophy and aesthetic. Matcha is the tea used in this ceremony, still central to Japanese culture. In cultivating matcha, the leaves are shaded during the weeks before harvest. This slows growth, produces a more intense color, and raises the level of theanine, the amino acid that gives tea its mood-enhancing properties. After drying, the leaves are deveined and stone-ground to a bright green powder. Matcha is prepared by pouring hot water over the powder in a warmed tea bowl and whipping with a bamboo whisk.

西元 1191 年，僧人荣西从中国将禅宗及绿茶粉的制法和相关仪式带回日本。数个世纪以来，这些饮茶的礼仪流传到武士和受过教育的阶级中间，演变为富含哲理与美学的茶道。茶道中的主角就是抹茶，如今仍是日本核心文化的一部分。在抹茶的培植过程中，须耗费数周时间为茶叶遮荫阻挡光线，方能采收，其目的是减缓生长速度、加深茶叶的色泽，以及提升茶氨酸的浓度。茶氨酸是一种胺基酸，能起到提振心情的作用。制茶师傅会在茶叶完成干燥后将茎部削去，在石头上磨成亮绿色的粉末。抹茶粉必须置于温热的茶碗中，以热水冲泡，并用竹制的茶筅搅拌。

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Pu-erh 普洱茶

THE ECCENTRIC OF THE FAMILY, pu-erh tea differs in several fascinating respects. It originates in Yunnan, but unlike nearly all Chinese teas, it is made from the large-leaf varietal common in India. And rather than just the first two leaves, its pluckings include the older third and fourth ones as well. After an optional withering, the leaves are pan-fired to retard enzyme activity. Green tea would then be dried with hot air to halt oxidation, but pu-erh leaves are rolled, rubbed, and bruised before sun-drying, during which some oxidation takes place. This type of pu-erh, sheng, may then be sold loose-leaf or compressed in various shapes. It retains natural microbes on the surface which over time ferment and ripen the flavors. Pu-erh is the only tea that improves with age, and some decades-old varieties fetch incredibly high prices. A modern development is the shou type, which undergoes an accelerated fermentation by a process called wo dui, “wet layering,” to mimic the taste of aged sheng pu-erh. 普洱茶可说是茶家族里的怪胎，在许多方面都与众不同。它的发源地是云南，但和其它中国茶不同的是，它是由盛产于印度的大叶变种制成。而在采摘茶叶时不只摘下前两片叶子，较老的第三片、第四片叶子也会一并摘下。选择性的萎凋完成之后，茶叶会被放到锅中炒，以降低酵素活性。制作绿茶的下一步骤会是用热空气烘干茶叶，暂止发酵，但普洱杀青后的下一步骤则是揉捻，接着晒干，在日晒的同时进行发酵。这种「生普洱」可能直接售出，也可能压缩成不同形状再售出。它的表面上保存了天然微生物，会随着时间发酵，使口味更加熟成。普洱是唯一一种「存放越久越好」的茶叶，有些拥有数十年历史的茶叶可以卖出惊人的价钱。「熟普洱」则是较现代的发明，茶叶会经历一种加速发酵的制作过程，称为「渥堆」，以仿制陈年生普洱的口感。

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White 白茶

The silvery-white down covering the unopened buds of the tea plant lends this variety its name. Up to 100,000 of these select tender shoots plucked in early spring are required for one kilo of finished tea. Due to minimal processing, white tea has the highest levels of antioxidants. The pluckings gently wither and dry in natural sunlight without the firing, rolling, and extended oxidation that reduce the amounts of polyphenols. The best Chinese whites, such as the expensive Baihao Yinzhen, or White Tipped Silver Needle, are grown in the province of Fujian. This tea is best infused with water at only 85°C for no more than ninety seconds. The tea is a limpid pale yellow with a velvety body and a light, sweet flavor. Shimmering hairs float on the surface and catch the light. 茶树待放花苞上的银白色绒毛，是这种茶叶命名的由来。约需十万株在初春精挑细选后摘下的嫩芽，才能制成一公斤的茶叶。白茶几乎未经加工，因此在所有茶叶中含有最高浓度的抗氧化剂。采下的茶叶在自然的阳光下慢慢地枯萎、晒干，无须烘焙、揉捻或额外的发酵，因此保有高量的多酚。最顶级的白茶，例如昂贵的白毫银针，产于中国的福建省。冲泡这种茶时须使用摄氏 85 度左右的开水，浸泡不超过 90 秒钟，才能达到最佳的效果。茶的颜色白里透黄，茶体细嫩如绒，口味清淡甘甜。银白色的绒毛浮在茶上，反射光线而使水面波光粼粼。

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Black 红茶

The world’s favorite, black tea is fully oxidized in processing to maximize the depth and complexity of the flavors and aromas inherent in the leaves. In China it is known as red tea from the color of the brewed liquid. Black tea is processed by first wilting the leaves to reduce moisture, then rolling to release their juices and oils. Exposed to the air, the leaves darken as their compounds oxidize and mellow in flavor. Finally, the tea is gently dried to halt oxidation and seal in the aromatics. Black teas are generally named for the regions where they are grown. Keemun may be the most famous of the Chinese blacks, with its intoxicating plum and apricot notes and flavors of malt and cocoa. From India come the robust Assam and the fruity, flowery Darjeeling.

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全世界最爱的一种茶。红茶在制作过程中完全发酵，让口味的浓郁和复杂程度发挥至极致，也让蕴含在茶叶中的香气能够尽情释放。因为冲泡后的茶色偏红，中国人称之为「红」茶。红茶的茶叶在采收后，先进行萎凋以减少水分，接着进行揉捻，使茶汁和茶油释出。茶叶在接触空气的过程中，成分开始氧化，口味随之熟成，颜色也渐渐变深。最后，茶叶被轻柔地烘干，以抑制氧化，留住芳香。红茶通常根据产地来命名。祁门红茶是中国首屈一指的红茶，带有梅和杏的迷人香气，以及麦芽和可可的风味。印度则孕育了口味浓郁的阿萨姆红茶，以及带花果味的大吉岭红茶。

Yellow

Scented

黄茶

加味茶

Almost a lost art, the production of yellow tea is laborintensive. As with green tea, the harvested leaves are neither wilted nor allowed to oxidize, but unlike green tea, they are removed from the pan after their initial firing and subjected to a “smothering” step, known in Chinese as men huan. This consists of covering the leaves with a cloth or, more traditionally, a layer of straw for a few hours or as much as a day. The process may be repeated several times by the tea master over a period of several days to achieve the desired results. Smothering allows the leaves to reabsorb some of their aromatic oils and produces a sweeter, fruitier bouquet. Because of the costly nature of the process, it is reserved for the early spring plucks of finer varieties. 黄茶的制造需要大量的人力，是种几近消失的工艺。如同绿茶一般，采收的茶叶没有经过萎凋或发酵。但与绿茶不同的是，黄茶茶叶在锅中经过初次加热后便被取出，进行一个名为「闷黄」的步骤。闷黄即是用布盖住茶叶数个小时，甚至

Many teas today are scented with extracts, but traditional methods use only natural flowers, herbs, spices, or smoke. Blossoms such as rose, osmanthus, lychee, or lotus are spread with the tea while oxidizing or layered with it in wooden chests. Herbs include pandan and mint, and spices like cardamom, cassia, and ginger are popular. Earl Grey is scented with bergamot peel, and Lapsang souchong is dried over a pinewood fire to impart an appealing smokiness.

一天的时间，较传统的作法是用稻草来覆盖。制茶师傅会在几天内多次重复这个动作，直到达成理想的效果。闷黄能让茶叶重新吸收茶中的芳香油，并产生较甜美、圆润的口感。这个过程成本偏高，因此只会运用在早春采收、品种较高级的茶叶。

有许多现代的茶会添加萃取物，使口味更芳香，但传统的加味茶在制作过程中只会使用花朵，香草，香料或煙熏。玫瑰，桂花，荔枝或莲花的花瓣会被撒在茶叶上 , 一同进行发酵或静置在木制容器中。七叶兰和薄荷是常用于加味茶中的草本，常用的香料则包括豆蔻、肉桂和姜。伯爵茶使用香柠檬皮加味，正山小种红茶则在松木上熏烤，因而拥有独具吸引力的烟熏味儿。

P R E S E N T E D B Y A LT I R A M A C A U

指尖上的微颤

good vibrations The tradition of prime ingredients and perfect technique lives on at Tenmasa.

“TEMPURA COOKING IS INTUITIVE ,” says

Chef de Cuisine Takenori Noguchi, as he whisks together flour, water, and egg yolks. “We don’t have a recipe for our batter and we don’t measure. I can teach the young chefs how to make it, but the right touch comes only with experience.” Chef Noguchi learned and perfected his intricate techniques under the tutelage of a tempura master at Tenmasa in Tokyo, Japan’s most celebrated tempura restaurant. “For the first two years, I wasn’t allowed to touch a knife,” he says. “I would come two hours early and do all my jobs so that when the master arrived I could watch and learn

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from him.” It was a culinary legacy handed down through three generations—Tenmasa was opened in 1937 by Masaji Hashii and today is owned and run by his grandson, Yoshiaki Hashii. The only branch outside Japan is Tenmasa at Altira Macau. Most people associate good tempura merely with crispy batter, but at Tenmasa other things have even higher priority. “Our focus is more on what’s inside,” says Noguchi. “The most important thing is using fresh, top-quality seasonal ingredients, followed by the oil blend and then the batter.” During the course of a meal at Tenmasa,

the batter is constantly evolving to suit the range of ingredients and the variations in oil temperature. Sealed inside the thinnest possible coating to let diners fully taste the succulent seafood and fresh vegetables, each morsel is presented individually, like a gift. Tenmasa’s skilled chefs detect sensations from the steam inside by using special metal chopsticks. “I pick up a piece of tempura, feel the vibrations, and know if it’s ready or not,” says Noguchi. “I can do it with my eyes closed.” See page 122 for more information on Tenmasa at Altira Macau.

Chef de Cuisine Takenori Noguchi 总厨野口武则先生

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DAVID HARTUNG (3)

Assorted tempura

挑选新鲜上乘食材与展现完美精湛技艺，是「天政」的治生之道。「烹调天妇罗仰赖直觉。」总厨野口武则先生一面搅拌面粉、水和蛋黄，一面说着。「我们没有炸浆的制作处方，也从不测量。我可以教年轻厨师制作方法，但正确手感只能靠经验累积。」野口总厨师承东京天妇罗名店 — 天政的正宗传人，厨艺高超，可谓尽得精髓。他回忆：「头两年师傅根本不让我碰刀子。每天上班我会早两个小时到，做完我份内的工作，这样师傅来时我就可以跟在他身边观摩学习。」天政的天妇罗烹调技艺已历经三代传承，从 1937 年创办餐厅的桥井政二先生到现今掌门的孙子桥井良彰先生。

天妇罗拼盘 ↗ Grilled Wagyu Beef Wrapped with Sea Urchin 烧海胆和牛卷

澳门新濠锋的这家餐厅是天政唯一一家海外分店。多数人认为天妇罗美味的关键在于炸浆酥脆，但在天政眼里，还有其他更重要的元素。野口总厨说：「我们重视的是天妇罗内部，新鲜顶级的当季食材为

首要，然后是特制混合食油，之后才是炸浆。」的确，当你飨用天政料理就会发现，炸浆经常随食材及油温而发生改变。裹着薄薄一层炸浆，让宾客得以充分品味里头鲜美多汁的海鲜和新鲜蔬菜，而且每道天妇罗均单独摆饰，有如精美小礼。天政老练的厨师们会利用特制的金属筷感受天妇罗内部蒸气。野口总厨说：「通过夹起并感受天妇罗经过烹炸后的轻微震颤，我可以判断出它的熟透程度。闭上眼睛也同样做到。」

如欲了解更多关于天政日本餐厅，请查阅第 122 页。 leaf to cup

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新总厨新气象

fresh take Under new direction, the classic Cantonese at Ying keeps right on shining.

CHEF DE CUISINE TIM LAM is suddenly in the spotlight. After working for many years under the direction of Chef Tam Kwok Fung at Jade Dragon at City of Dreams, he has recently taken center stage at Ying at Altira Macau. “I learned so much from Chef Tam,” he says, “and now it’s my chance to shine.” Chef Lam plans to continue featuring Ying’s premier style of traditional Cantonese cuisine. “We’re very focused on classic ingredients and techniques here,” he says, “but with a big emphasis on presentation. And we’ve refined and modernized to make everything more delicate, more elegant.” The team at Ying prides itself on keeping

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standards consistently high. “In Chinese cuisine you don’t eat anything out of season,” says Chef Lam, “and in keeping with that, all our fresh ingredients change with the time of year.” While the chef will introduce a range of his own creations in September, the restaurant’s signature dishes and all the guest favorites will stay on the menu. One of the most requested is Ying’s deepfried chicken, traditionally eaten at night. “This is such a time-honored Cantonese dish that it’s important to do it right,” says Chef Lam. “Crispy skin and tender meat that is never overcooked.” A total of twelve

minutes ensures perfection. Other signatures include sea whelk, sliced and cooked tableside in chicken broth with white radish and shiitakes, and the stir-fried wood ear with vegetables. “The special element in this dish,” he says, “is the very expensive fungus.” Taking on the responsibilities of such a prestige venue as Ying is not something Chef Lam takes lightly: “I suddenly feel very grown up. It’s a lot of pressure, but to me the challenge is thrilling.” See page 122 for more information on Ying at Altira Macau.

P R E S E N T E D B Y A LT I R A M A C A U

Chef de Cuisine Tim Lam 总厨林汉添先生

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

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林汉添先生在新濠天地誉珑轩跟随名厨谭国锋工作多年，并在最近晋升为新濠锋帝影楼的新总厨，一跃成为万众瞩目的焦点。林总厨表示：「一直以来跟着谭师傅学习，让我受益匪浅。而现在，让我崭露头角的机会到了。」根据林总厨的规划，帝影楼传统粤菜的极致奢华风格将维持不变。他表示：「在这里我们非常重视传统食材和经典技艺，但所营造出的整体感亦十分重要。菜肴经过精心雕琢，颇具现代风格，一切变得更精致、更典雅。」而最令帝影楼厨艺班底引以自豪的，就是长期以来维持不坠的高标准。「非当令食材不会出现在我们的中菜里。」林总厨

Ying’s popular Crispy Chicken Served with Lemon Sauce 帝影楼的人气料理西柠汁脆皮鸡 ↗ Poached Sliced Whelk and Seasonal Vegetable in Chicken Broth 鸡汤堂灼螺片

说。「正因如此，餐厅的所有新鲜食材都会随时节更迭而轮换更新。」今年九月，他将推出一系列亲自精心创制的美馔，而餐厅的招牌菜及各种人气料理仍会留在菜单上。其中最受欢迎的是

帝影楼的脆皮鸡，传统上是晚间享用的佳肴。林总厨说：「这道粤菜历久不衰，所以把它做好、做得客人喜欢显得至关重要。外皮酥脆，肉质软嫩绝不过老。」烹调时间务必刚刚好 12 分钟，最是完美。其他招牌菜包括在顾客桌边用白萝卜和香菇一起熬煮的鸡汤堂灼螺片，以及榆耳琥珀素小炒等等。他强调：「这道菜的特殊食材，是非常昂贵的榆耳。」肩负着帝影楼的盛名，林总厨不敢掉以轻心：「我一下子觉得自己担子重了。压力很大，但同时这项挑战也让我充满干劲。」

如欲了解更多关于帝影楼，请查阅第 122 页。 leaf to cup

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品酒佳肴品味坊

irresistible temptations

DAVID HARTUNG

Imaginative new dishes and well-chosen wines make ideal couples on the wine dinner menu at Temptations.

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PRESENTED BY STARWORLD MACAU

WINE PAIRING DINNERS usually start with new ideas from the kitchen, with wines to match those ideas following later. But for this month’s special wine pairing menu at Temptations at StarWorld Macau, it’s just the reverse. “I already had some ideas in my head,” says chef Joe Chan, StarWorld Macau’s Executive Manager of Culinary. “But first I tried the wines and chose three of the best that I thought would complement my style of food. Then I adapted the dishes that I’d conceived to suit those wines.” The five-course dinner will be paired with three interesting selections from Cirro Wines of New Zealand. The Blue Mussel and Scallop Salad, with hints of balsamic and cilantro, is paired with a crisp Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2014 to balance the acidity of the dish. For the Lobster and Morel Ragout, Chef Joe chooses Marlborough Pinot Gris 2014, first making a reduction of the wine for the dish, then pouring a glass to complement the delicacy of the seafood. And Marlborough Pinot Noir 2013 accompanies Char-Grilled Rack of Lamb, Rum and Cranberry Jus, with a sauce that’s sumptuously flavorful. “A rack of lamb ought to be something special, so I came up with a concept for the jus that is really different,” says Chef Joe. “My fresh cranberry and rum sauce is the perfect way to highlight the character of the wine.” Guests will finish their feast with a compote of fresh fruit served with caramelized orange sauce and homemade walnut ice cream. October marks StarWorld’s ninth anniversary, and Temptations will be offering

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new dishes and special prices during the extended celebration. Chef Joe, who’s been part of things from the very beginning, has seen a great many changes over the course of nine years. “Temptations began as a buffetstyle restaurant, but recently we’ve moved up to a la carte,” he says. “Our culinary techniques have become more sophisticated and so has our clientele. But our commitment to providing our guests with the very finest in food and service has never changed.”

品酒晚宴的灵感通常是以酒佐餐 , 有了料理才思考搭配的酒款。但本月澳门星际酒店品味坊所推广的特别品酒宴却正好相反。澳门星际酒店行政总厨陈继祖说 :「尽管脑海中已经有了部分菜式设计 , 但我还是先进行试酒 , 选择三款我认为最配合自己食材风格的酒 , 再调整已想好的菜式来搭配选好的酒。」是次晚宴菜单共有五道菜 , 将搭配三种饶富趣味的纽西兰云露葡萄酒。其中一道使用了少许意大利香醋和香菜的蓝青口

PRESENTED BY STARWORLD MACAU

←← Executive Manager of Culinary Joe Chan 餐饮部行政总厨陈继祖 ←

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

Lobster & Morel Ragout 羊肚菌烩龙虾

鲜带子沙律 , 搭配的是活力十足的 2014 年份马尔堡苏维浓白酒 , 用以平衡料理的酸度。针对羊肚菌烩龙虾 , 陈总厨选了 2014 年份马尔堡灰皮诺白酒 , 他先让酒蒸发浓缩后 , 再倒进玻璃杯中辅佐海鲜的精致风味。2013 年份马尔堡黑皮诺红酒则搭配酱汁味道繁复华丽的炭烧羊扒配兰姆酒干巴利汁。「羊扒本身就是特别的食材 , 所以我想起了一个与果汁有关的念头 , 来突显羊扒天生的与众不同。新鲜干巴利汁和兰姆酒酱最能完美强调出此酒的性格。」

宾客在宴席最后还能享用餐厅自制的焦糖草莓伴腰果雪糕。十月适逢澳门星际酒店九周年庆 , 品味坊将会推出新菜式与特价料理与宾客共庆此刻。从开幕之初便在酒店服务的陈总厨 , 在这里见证了许多的转变。他说 :「其实品味坊一开始供应的是自助餐 , 最近才升级为可单点菜式的餐厅。故此我们的烹调手法变得更为繁复 , 顾客群也更多元化 , 更给顾客提供最上乘餐点与服务的承诺却始终如一。」

↑↑ Blue Mussels & Scallop Salad 蓝青口鲜带子沙律 ↑ Risotto with Pumpkin 南瓜意大利饭

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秋蟹当道

star of the season The unique multi-region cuisine of Feng Wei Ju puts its fall focus on the season’s freshest crab.

STARWORLD HOTEL ’S Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chak Keong believes there’s only one thing better than freshly cooked crab – freshly cooked crab prepared ten different ways. “Autumn is a great season for enjoying crab,” he says. “We want to showcase them in a wide variety of ways so people can experience their full spectrum of flavors.” During September and October, Feng Wei Ju is offering a delectable bounty of crab, from steamed and sautéed, to deepfried, wok-fried, and stir-fried, and combined with an imaginative range of fresh ingredients to highlight the sweet succulence of each distinctive variety. Choices include Alaska King Crab, Steamed Spotted Crab with Egg White in Hua Diao, Sautéed Chili Mud Crab Hunan Style, Baked Green Crab

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in Rock Salt, and Fried Rice with Crab Roe and Conpoy. Feng Wei Ju’s dishes reflect the restaurant’s unique crossover cuisine that draws inspiration from three regional Chinese styles – spicy and numbing from Sichuan, noodles from Shanxi, sour and spicy from Hunan. “These three cuisines are a good mix,” says Chef Chan. “They harmonize and complement each other beautifully.” In celebration of the ninth anniversary of StarWorld Macau, the chef will also be presenting, from September 12 through

October 31, a special creation named Nine Bowls Set in Hunan and Sichuan Style. Made up of nine small dishes, one for each year in business, it showcases traditional selections from the two provinces. The offerings include Poached Chicken with Green Pepper Corns, Stewed Pumpkin Hunan Style, Double-boiled Chicken Soup with Straw Mushrooms, Steamed Spare Ribs in Glutinous Rice, and Braised Beef Loin with Lotus Paste. “People can try a little bit of everything,” says Chef Chan. “It’s kind of like the Chinese version of tapas.”

PRESENTED BY STARWORLD MACAU

←← Nine Bowls Set in Hunan and Sichuan Style 湘川风味特色九碗菜 ← Executive Chinese Chef Chan Chak Keong

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

中菜行政总厨陈植强

在澳门星际酒店中菜行政总厨陈植强心中 , 没有什么比得过新鲜烹调的螃蟹 – 除非是一蟹十吃。他说 :「秋季是最适合吃螃蟹的季节 , 我们希望以多种不同的料理方式让宾客们体验螃蟹的千滋百味。」今年九月至十月 , 风味居将推出各式令人惊艳的螃蟹料理 , 从清蒸、干煎、油炸、爆炒、快炒不一而足 , 并结合各种新鲜食材 , 带出独特烹调手法下螃蟹的鲜甜多汁。供选择的螃蟹料理包括阿拉斯加帝王蟹、花雕蛋白蒸花蟹、湘味辣炒蟹、盐焗蟹和蟹瑶多子炒饭。风味居的菜式反映出餐厅具独一无二

的跨界烹调手法 , 分别融合了三个地区中菜的特色 – 四川的麻辣、陕西的面食、湖南的酸辣。「这三种料理组合起来很搭，彼此间味道调和、互补恰到好处。」为庆贺澳门星际酒店开幕九周年 , 陈总厨将于今年 9 月 12 日至 10 月 31 日精心呈献一道特殊料理 , 名为「湘川风味特色九碗菜」，一共由九道小菜组成 , 以中国湘川传统精选菜式来象征星际酒店过去九年来的营运成果 , 小菜包括绿花椒葱油鸡、湘味南瓜条、蘑菇黄鸡汤、糯米蒸排骨和酱香伴牛 : , 肉。陈总厨说「宾客可以每款菜式都尝一点有点像中式的西班牙餐前下酒小菜。」

↑↑ Boiled Mandarin Fish Fillets in Hot Chili Oil 水煮飘香沸腾鱼 ↑ Deep-fried Mud Crab with Pepper Corns 香爆麻辣蟹

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PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU

王者来袭

royal invasion “The King of White Truffles” extends his reign to Macau with the opening of his newest outpost.

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“Fassone Veal” Tenderloin Organic Pumkin, Piedmont Hazelnut, Parmesan Sauce “Fassone”牛仔柳

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

有机南瓜、皮埃蒙特榛子、帕尔马芝士酱汁

SINCE 2010, culinary powerhouse Umberto Bombana has been winning the hearts of Hong Kong diners with 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA, the first Italian restaurant outside Italy to achieve three Michelin stars. And now, after opening a branch in Shanghai, the multi-awardwinning restaurateur is about to conquer Macau. The most recent edition of 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA is located in The Promenade, Galaxy Macau’s new shopping and dining destination. “Bombana has become an institution in Hong Kong,” says newly appointed Executive Chef Antimo Maria Merone. “I can’t count how many offers he’s had to open all over the world. I think he chose Macau because he believes in Galaxy – their goals, their vision, their ideas of what a restaurant should be.” Taking the helm of such a famous restaurant may seem an unusual job for someone who started out studying finance and marketing. “I’m the guy who’s supposed to be in a suit and tie in a merchant bank,” he laughs. “It took me a while, but I realized that cooking was my true passion and always had been.” After studying and working throughout Europe, Merone came to Asia three years ago to help open the Michelinstarred L’Altro before joining Bombana in 2014.

顶级名厨 Umberto Bombana 旗下餐厅 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA 自 2010 年进驻香港以来便掳获当地饕客的心，成为意大利境外首间获得米其林三星殊荣的意大利餐厅。近来继上海的据点后，获奖无数的餐厅经营鬼才 Bombana 也决定挥军澳门，打造新餐厅。全新 8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA 餐厅座落于澳门银河新的购物及餐饮天堂－时尚汇。新上任的行政主厨「香港的 Antimo Maria Merone 表示： Bombana 餐厅俨然已成为指标，来自世界各地的开店邀约数都数不完，我们最终选择了澳门，定是认同澳门银河经营的目标、愿景，以及对于餐厅的构想。」对于出身专业为金融及市场营销的主厨而言，有机会为如此知名的餐厅掌舵真可说是意想不到的经历。他边说边笑：「我本该穿西装打领带在商业银行工作的。过程花了些时间，最终发现烹饪才是我真正的热诚所在，永远不会消却。」踏遍欧洲各地修习厨艺及努力工作之后，Merone 因协助米其林星级 leaf to cup

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PRESENTED BY GALAXY MACAU

餐厅「L’Altro」于三年前来到亚洲，后于 2014 年加 “I spent more than a year with Bombana, working and train入 Bombana。 ing in his Hong Kong kitchen,” he says. “I needed to understand 「我在他大方分享在 Bombana 的经验： his philosophy, make connections with suppliers, and try out 身边待了超过一年，在香港厨房工作、训 Bombana ideas with him for this new restaurant.” After six months, Merone 练烹饪技巧。我需要彻底理解他的理念、与供应商打 moved to Macau for the pre-opening phase. He was involved in 好关系，和他一起为新餐厅发想新作法。」六个月之 every detail – from hiring staff and designing the menu to select后，他搬到澳门，紧锣密鼓为开张前置作业准备，各 ing porcelain, glassware, and light fixtures. The new menu, says 个环节包括雇用员工、设计菜单、挑选瓷器、玻璃器 Merone, came out of a close collaboration between the two 具乃至于灯光设置，Merone 都参 chefs. “About 60 percent of the items are from 与其中。澳门餐厅的菜单，据他透 Hong Kong – exactly the same dishes, served 露，可说是两位厨师密切合作的成 exactly the same way – 40 percent are new 果：「其中六成来自于香港－同样 and represent who I am as a chef.” The list Veal Shank Tortelli 的菜色、上菜的方式也毫无二致， will keep evolving and change seasonally, but Parma Ham, Girolles, Natural Jus 另外四成则是全新创作，展现我身 signature dishes and customer favorites will 意大利牛仔肉云吞为主厨的个人风格。」菜色每季一 stay. 帕尔玛火腿、鸡油菌及牛肉原汁调整、有所变化，但招牌菜色及客 Setting up the newest branch of such a 人喜爱的长销菜则是全年供应。 prestigious brand isn’t simple. “Our greatest 为 Bambana 这般盛名远 challenge is finding the same products we’d 播的品牌设立新据点绝非易事，「最大的挑战在于如何在此找到像香 Merone 就说：港餐厅所用的一模一样的产品。欧洲进口的各种食材需先经香港这一关，其中可能会有时程延误，特别是台风来袭时影响最大。」然而也有某些部分比想像中来得更加容易，「澳门银河为大型综合商城，很多员工在此工作，但原本觉得这会是挑战的地方，如组织我们的团队等，而最后归功于澳门银河从一

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

use in Hong Kong,” Merone says. “Everything from Europe must go through HK, and there can be delays – especially when a typhoon hits.” And yet some things have been easier than anticipated. “Galaxy is a complex machine with many people working here,” he says. “Things that I thought would be real challenges – like putting our team together – have actually been easier than expected thanks to Galaxy’s unconditional support from the very beginning.”

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开始便无任何保留的支持，问题迎刃而解，比预期简 Like Bombana, Merone leans toward a minimalist philoso也走极简主义路线，单得多。」Merone 一如 Bombana， phy, and his new signature dishes reflect that. “I’m in a phase 此一风格在新的招牌菜色中也展露无遗。他自己分析： of my development where I think less is better than more,” he 「现在的发展历程到了『简单就是美』的阶段，与其增 says. “Remove instead of add, simplify, focus on one element, 加不如移除、简化、专注于单一元素、单一食材，使 one ingredient, and let that be the main character of the dish.” 之成为一道菜的主要特色。」 The standouts on the new menu include poached lob新菜单中特别引人注目的有水煮龙虾佐甜菜根及 ster with beetroot and orange dressing, confit vegetables, and 柳橙酱汁、油封蔬菜、Calvisius 鱼子酱及小牛胫肉意 Calvisius caviar; and a veal shank tortelli. “It’s super-traditional 「我们大利云吞。 Merone 强调： to do a stuffed pasta,” says Merone. “We use 的云吞作法超传统的，精选漂亮的 a beautiful veal shank braised with vegetables 小牛胫肉和蔬菜及白酒一起慢炖， and white wine, then combined with Parma Lobster 再加入帕玛火腿及起司。之后放 ham and cheese. After sautéing the tortelli in Beetroot Orange Dressing, 上倒入浓缩牛胫高汤为底的锅上香 a very concentrated veal stock to reinforce the Confit Vegetables, Calvisius Caviar 煎，加强内层牛肉的味道，摆盘时 flavor of the meat inside, we top it off with 龙虾放上蘑菇沙拉及红唐莴苣即大功告 mushroom salad and red chard.” 柳橙甜菜根汁、浸煮蔬成。」 The Fassone veal tenderloin, from cattle in 菜、Calvisius 鱼子酱优质的 Fassone 小牛里脊来自 northern Italy, is a very lean cut of meat with no 意大利北部，为不带任何油花的瘦 marbling. “We bread it and slow fry it in clarified 肉片。主厨也说明烹调步骤：「裹 butter,” says Merone. “It’s crispy on the outside 上面包粉，用脱水奶油慢煎直到外层酥脆，内部饱含 but still very juicy inside.” A pear tart served with vanilla ice cream, 丰富肉汁。」水梨塔搭配香草冰淇淋、糖煮柳橙及开心 orange compote, and pistachio is one of several perfect finishes. 果则是最后的甜点之一，为套餐划下完美句点。 What does Merone think is the reason for Bombana’s suc问到 Bombana 为何能如此成功？ Merone 不假 cess? “Consistency,” he responds without hesitation. “That’s 思索回答：「品质的一致性，这也正是好餐厅升级成 what really turns a good restaurant into a great restaurant. I 为绝佳餐厅的关键。香港 Bombana 最大的强项于此， think it’s the biggest strength of Bombana in Hong Kong and it’s 也是我们澳门餐厅的目标所在。」 exactly what I’m aiming for here.”

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Autumn Legend 秋之传说

Autumn Legend

Fall Foliage

秋之传说

秋叶

PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

甜蜜之秋

sweet season Authentic ingredients and simplicity are key to the remarkable autumn dessert offerings at Mandarin Oriental, Macau.

JASON BONELLO (4)

EXECUTIVE PASTRY CHEF SEBASTIEN BERNIS

is celebrating the season with his fall-themed desserts at Mandarin Oriental, Macau. “My autumn creations take maximum advantage of the produce at this time of year,” he says. “A lot of hazelnut, passion fruit, mandarin – all the peak tastes of fall.” The Cake Shop in the hotel lobby is filled every morning with Sebastien’s irresistible bounty, from velvety truffles to glorious gateaux. For a French native like him, creating confectionery works of art is in the blood. “Both my mother and grandmother made pastry and they’ve given me some of my happiest childhood memories,” he says. “My mother made the most amazingly simple yogurt cake that I still dream about.” His parents opened a small brasserie, where as a teenager he helped his father in the kitchen before choosing to pursue cooking as a profession. Following three years of study and practical training, Sebastien made the decision to specialize in pastry. “When I worked in the kitchen, my hands were always oily and smelling of garlic,” he says. “The pastry chef ’s were fresh and clean, so that was the turning point for me!” Chef Sebastien’s philosophy of pastry focuses squarely on the integrity of the

初秋将至，澳门文华东方酒店饼房行政总厨鲍思培隆重推出他所钟爱的秋季甜点。「我的秋季创作充分使用了当令食材，包括榛果、百香果和柑橘等，都是在秋天时最为香甜的。」每天早晨，位于酒店大堂的饼房便陈列着鲍总厨琳琅满目的精心之作，从丝滑浓醇的松露巧克力到五彩缤纷的蛋糕，实在令人难以抗拒。鲍总厨是土生土长的法国人，制作艺术品般的甜点可说是与生俱来的天赋。「我母亲和祖母都做糕点，她们留给我最幸福快乐的童年回忆。」他说。「我母亲做的优格蛋糕很简单，却是全世界最好吃的，直到现在我还念念不忘。」鲍总厨的父母开了一家餐厅，早在选择烹饪为专业之前，青少年时期的他便在厨房帮忙。之后经过三年研修和实务训练，他决定专攻糕点制作。他说：「我在厨房工作时，手永远都是油腻腻的，充满大蒜味。但糕点师傅的手总是既干净又清爽，所以我决定选糕点师这门专业路！」鲍总厨的糕点哲学完全着重于成品的整体意境。「对我来说，最重要的就是食材要地道，意象要简明，不需过于绚丽的装饰，太多味道或过度繁复的视觉效果会让食客感到不明所以－他们应该要了解自己所吃的到底为何物。」鲍总厨如此说道，而他精心制作的秋季巨献之一。「秋叶」便是他糕点哲学的最佳体现：糖渍柑橘搭配

Executive Pastry Chef Sebastien Bernis 饼房行政总厨鲍思培

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PRESENTED BY MANDARIN ORIENTAL, MACAU

Pastry team at Mandarin Oriental, Macau

final product. “For me, it’s all about authentic ingredients and simplicity,” he says. “I don’t want a lot of fireworks, I don’t want to confuse people with too many flavors or over-the-top visuals – they should understand what they’re eating.” A perfect example is one of his new additions to the autumn lineup, “Fall Foliage.” Clementine compote with chestnut mousse and biscuit crumble is covered in delicate chocolate leaves with colors ranging from green and gold to red, orange, and brown, reminiscent of the forest floor in autumn. “People take one look,” he says, “and they understand.” His other fall desserts are just as simple – and just as delicious. “Autumn Legend,” made with passion fruit cream, hazelnut crunchy biscuit, Gianduja cream, and milk chocolate mousse, offers a well-rounded medley of fall flavors. As he explains, “The passion fruit adds acidity to balance the sweetness of the cream and the mousse.” It was his own childhood that inspired “Walk in the Woods”: “I used to go out with my father looking for mushrooms. The color represents the stones on the soil, the green sponge is

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like the moss that covers the rocks and the leaves falling from the trees.” Beneath the chocolate is caramelized apple tatin, almond biscuit, and caramel mousse. A good pastry chef always has his scales and whisk at hand, but the Internet is also proving to be a useful tool of the trade. “There’s been a big leap in the evolution of pastry in the past five to ten years,” says Sebastien. “I can’t travel back to France all the time, so I go online to stay updated on the trends and see what’s happening, what the next big thing will be.” One trend he notes is a return to simple, classic desserts. “Everyone seems to be coming back to the basics, but redoing them in a more modern way,” he says. “These days people want to eat healthier, so there’s a definite tendency to cut back on the sugar and cream.” Chef Sebastien works closely with Dominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food & Beverage at Mandarin Oriental, Macau. “The relationship between chef and pastry chef is important because they need each other,” says Dominique. “They definitely play two very

different roles. We pastry chefs have a bit more freedom in the kitchen, while chefs are absolute technicians and very precise. Dominique and I brainstorm a great deal and together we come up with some crazy ideas.” Chef Sebastien’s day begins early. “I’m here at seven to first prepare everything for the Cake Shop,” he says. “Then there are special orders, functions, and afternoon tea.” After that he gets things ready for the next morning, finally leaving in the early evening. But he has no complaints about the long days: “If you love what you’re doing, you never count the hours.”

JASON BONELLO (2)

澳门文华东方酒店饼房行政总厨及其团队

Walk in the Woods 漫步林中

栗子慕斯佐饼干碎片，表面覆盖着精美的巧克力叶片，绿色、金色、红色、橘色和棕色－当中的意思令人联想起秋季森林里的满地落叶。他说 :「于食客而言，一目了然。」除了「秋叶」，鲍总厨其他的秋季甜点同样简明且美味。「秋之传说」是用百香果奶油、榛果脆饼、榛果巧克力奶油和牛奶巧克力慕斯制成，全方位地呈现出秋天的各式风味。他解释道：「百香果增添酸度，平衡了奶油和慕斯的甜腻」。而另一甜点「漫步林中」的灵感则是来自于他的童年记忆。「以前我会和父亲一起外出采摘蘑菇。这个颜色代表泥土上的石头，绿色海绵就像覆

盖在石头上的青苔及落叶。」巧克力下方则是裹住焦糖的苹果塔、杏仁饼和焦糖慕斯。身为一位优秀的糕点师傅，他与磅秤、搅拌器几乎是形影不离，而网路亦为糕点业的进展带来莫大贡献。「过去五到十年间，糕点业的发展非常迅速。」鲍总厨说。「我无法经常回法国，所以我会上网追踪最新趋势，了解现况，注意时下将流行的事物。」近来有一项新潮流吸引了他的注意，就是简单经典甜点的强势回归。「似乎每个糕点师都回归到基本方向上，只是选择较现代的手法重现。现在大家都想吃得更健康，少糖、少奶油已蔚为风潮。」鲍总厨与澳门文华东方酒店餐饮总监

贝铭乐彼此相辅相成，合作密切。贝总监说：「餐饮总厨和糕点总厨的关系很重要，因为他们互相需要。」鲍总厨补充道：「两者扮演的角色十分不同，我们做糕点的在厨房的自由度稍微高点，厨师则讲究精准。贝总监和我经常一起脑力激荡，发想出许多疯狂的点子。」鲍总厨每天很早就工作。他说：「我七点已到，先把饼店里需要的都准备好，然后带领我的团队制作各类订单以及酒店所需的糕点。」之后他会将隔天一早需要的东西都准备好，才在华灯初上时离开。工时虽长，他却毫无怨言，因为「当你热爱自己的工作，就不会去计较时间长短。」 leaf to cup

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普洱的奇幻旅程

pu-erh power Wild mountain terrain, ancient forests, and venerable tradition stand behind one of China’s noblest teas. BY MAMIE CHEN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

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FEATURE

AT THE HEIGHT of its prominence during the late Qing dynasty, the Ancient Tea Horse Road was traversed by countless caravans of mules laden with bamboo-leaf-wrapped stacks of pressed pu-erh tea, known as qi zi bing cha or “seven sons tea cakes.” Epic journeys along a network of trade routes leading out of Yunnan’s tea-producing regions brought tea for tribute to the emperor in Beijing and tea for trade to Tibet and other parts of China. These days, travel time between the tea farms and forests of Yunnan and the tea collectors and connoisseurs of Greater China and the wider world may be significantly shorter, but the trip itself can still be bone-jarring and treacherous. It often takes an all-terrain vehicle to negotiate the numberless potholes and seasonal mud sloughs that strew the roads and to finally reach the remote villages high in the windy Bulang Mountains. But all exertions are worth the effort for the reward that lies at road’s end – the magnificent tea forests of Lao Ban Zhang. Producing what is widely considered “the king of pu-erh teas,” the village of Lao Ban Zhang jealously guards primeval groves that have a high concentration of specimens hundreds of years old, many growing as tall as fifteen meters. Wild and natural, with no hint of chemical pesticides or fertilizers, the ancient trees yield leaves that are thicker and more robust than their cultivated terrace-grown counterparts and delicate buds covered with fine silvery-white down. In taste, the brewed tea begins with a distinctively bitter flavor that quickly gives way to an intense sweetness. This rapid taste transition and the huigan , or long-lasting sweet aftertaste in the throat, are what distinguish the tea of Lao Ban Zhang from all other pu-erh. Many families have now abandoned traditional hand-processing methods in favor of modernization. Backbreaking jobs have been replaced by machines to roll the leaves and hydraulic presses to shape the tea cakes. Some connoisseurs believe the mechanical methods give the tea a stronger, more assertive flavor than the subtler and lingering essence of handcrafted tea. That’s good news for the few artisans who still adhere to time-honored techniques for both the initial processing of the loose maocha , or “rough tea,” and the fine processing of pressed and wrapped tea.

晚清时期的茶马古道络绎不绝，随时都有数不清的驴拉着篷车来回穿梭，篷车里载着用竹叶包裹、压缩成饼状的普洱茶，人们给了它「七子饼茶」的名字。这段奇幻旅程从云南的产茶区出发，经过绵密的商业道路，把茶送到北京向皇帝进贡，再送到西藏和中国的其他地区进行贸易。在今天，要把茶从云南的农场和森林，送到大中华或更遥远地区的收藏家或品茶家手中，似乎不再旷日费时，但这段旅程仍然颠簸而艰辛。只有越野车才能应付满布路途中的壶穴和季节性的泥沼，到达布朗山上的偏远村落。这儿高耸入云，时常刮着强风。然而一抵达旅途的终点，所有的努力便有了莫大的回报 • 出现在眼前的是一大片壮观的老班章茶树林。出产人称「普洱之王」的老班章村，小心翼翼地守护着聚集百年茶树的原始林，其中有不少茶树甚至长到 15 公尺高。那些老茶树野生而天然，没有一丝杀虫剂或化学肥料作用过的痕迹，叶子比起种在梯田上的茶叶来得厚实而饱满，稚嫩的芽苞上长着银白色的细毛。在口感方面，泡好的茶起初有明显的苦味，但很快就会转变成强烈的甜味。口感上的迅速变化和口中的回甘，使得老班章在各种各样的普洱茶中独树一格。在今天，许多制茶世家都已「现代化」，不再使用传统的手工技术来生产茶叶。揉捻茶叶的费力工作被机器取代，压茶饼也改用液压机来进行。有些品茶专家认为用机器制成的茶口味较重，失去了手制茶温和而令人回味的精髓。这对仍采用古老制茶技术的师傅而言是个好消息。传统的茶叶制程可将茶叶初步处理，成为俗称的「毛茶」，或再精制成茶包或茶饼。 leaf to cup

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Picking é&#x2021;&#x2021;č&#x152;ś

One bud, two leaves. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the rule of thumb when picking tea in order to gain an optimal blend of the distinctive characteristics brought forth by buds, leaves, and stems and infused into the final drink. For pu-erh tea, however, the third and fourth leaves are often included as well in order to add additional layers of flavor. Ancient tea trees present a much greater harvesting challenge than cultivated terrace ones that have been pollarded to waist height. In addition to climbing ladders and balancing precariously on branches to reach the treetops, tea farmers must also take more care with the picking method so as to promote new growth while still protecting the trees and future harvests.

FEATURE

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「一芽二叶」是采茶人的经验法则，能够让茎、芽和叶以理想的比例混合，把

Wilting 萎凋

Within a few hours of plucking, the leaves must be laid out inches deep on bamboo mats. Adequate airflow over and through the leaves reduces their moisture levels. They become less brittle and some enzymatic oxidation begins, breaking down amino acids and other compounds in the leaves.

它们突出的特色融入茶饮当中。在采普洱茶时，连第三、四片叶子都要摘下，让口感更有层次。在古老而挺拔的茶树上采茶，比起摘采梯田上种的茶叶要困难许多，梯田上的茶树通常已修剪至腰部的高度。除了战战兢兢地站在梯子上维持平衡，爬上树顶，茶农还须特别注重采摘的方式，要让茶树能继续长出新芽，确保茶树的健康，以期未来能够继续收获。

茶叶在摘下的数小时内必须平铺在竹席上，堆叠约数吋厚度，让空气在茶叶间及茶叶上方适度流通，可减低其水分含量。它们变得较坚韧，同时发酵过程开始作用，分解茶叶中的胺基酸及其他成分。

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FEATURE

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Killing Green 杀菁 The maocha master presides over an enormous wok, tilted toward him for better access. He gently roasts the leaves to suppress oxidation, further lower moisture levels, and coax out the tea’s fragrances. The heat must be carefully controlled to bring the leaves to a temperature of around 80°C. With bare hands and quick, choreographed movements, he keeps them in constant motion, ensuring that none cling to the hot surface for more than a moment. 毛茶师傅站在一个巨大的锅旁，将锅子向他倾斜，方便下一步动作。他轻炒着茶叶，目的是抑制发酵，以及减少水分、引出茶香。师傅必须谨慎地控制锅子的热度，让茶叶的温度维持在摄氏 80 度左右。他接着把双手伸入锅内，以一种迅速而井然有序的方式炒着茶叶，使它们随时都在移动，确保没有一片叶子在火热的锅面停留超过一个片刻。

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Drying 干燥 Weather permitting, pu-erh tea is normally sun dried, differentiating it from oven-dried teas like oolong. The slow, low-temperature drying process preserves the tea’s unique post-production potential for aging. 若天气许可，普洱通常以日照的方式干燥，与用烤箱烘焙的乌龙有所不同。缓慢、低温的干燥过程保留了茶叶在制作完成后，还能陈放多时的潜力。

Rolling 揉捻 Using a special rolling and kneading technique, the maocha master works the freshly roasted batch, bruising the leaves, releasing their juices, and further breaking down the cell structure to kick-start another chemical reaction that will shape the final flavor of the tea. Rolling also shapes the outer leaves to curl around and protect the more delicate buds.

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毛茶师傅利用一种特殊的揉捏技术来处理刚炒好的茶叶，摩擦叶面使茶汁流出，同时破坏叶子的细胞结构来触发另一项化学反应，这项反应完成后，茶的口味就定了下来。揉捻也让外部的叶子能够向内卷曲，保护更细嫩的芽苞。

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Steaming 蒸制 At this point, the maocha can be stored and enjoyed as loose-leaf tea, and it will continue to age in storage. If it is to be pressed into a tea cake or other shape, it must first undergo steaming to regain flexibility and to reactivate some of the sticky juice that helps retain its form. The maocha is weighed, lightly steamed for about ten seconds in an iron canister, poured into a cloth sack, tied off with a topknot, and shaped into a round cake.

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经过了上面的步骤，毛茶已能够存放或冲泡成散叶茶来饮用，存放中的茶叶将会继续熟成。若要将茶叶压缩成茶饼或其他形状，则须先经过蒸制以重新获得弹性，并重新激发黏稠的茶汁，以维持茶叶的外观。毛茶首先经过秤重，在钢桶中短暂蒸个 10 秒钟，倒进布袋在上头打结包好，再做成圆形饼状。

FEATURE

Pressing 压缩 The sack is pressed under a heavy, hand-carved stone, with someone standing and swiveling atop it for added weight. When compressed, the bag’s topknot creates the distinctive circular indentation in the bottom of each cake. After a few minutes, the bag is cooled on a rack. The pressed cake is then removed from the bag, air dried, and individually wrapped. Most workshops around Yunnan now use hydraulic presses for this final step, but devotees of stone-pressed pu-erh believe that a machine compresses the cakes too tightly, restricting airflow through the tea and adversely affecting its natural aging by fermentation.

布袋被压在一颗以手工雕刻的厚重石头下，一个人站在上头转动来增加重量。在压缩的过程中，布袋上头的结在每块茶饼的底部留下了环状的刻痕。数分钟后，布袋被放在架上降温。制茶人把压过的茶饼从袋中取出、风干再一个个包装起来。现在云南大部分的茶坊都利用液压机完成这个步骤，然而石磨普洱的爱好者认为机器会把茶饼压得太紧，让空气无法在其间流通，影响了茶叶的自然发酵与熟成。

The Culmination 大功告成 An aromatic infusion of “the king of pu-erh teas.” 普洱茶王的清香缓缓散出，令人迷醉。

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TEA MIXOLOGIST

茶酒魔术师

alchemist of tea An award-winning bartender transforms tea in all its variety into cocktails both elegant and exciting.

“I HAVE A VERY COMPETITIVE NATURE,” says Robert Schinkel, Dilmah Tea 的调茶师和品牌大使 Robert 「在 2009 年荷兰 Dilmah Tea 举 Schinkel 说： Dilmah Tea Mixologist and Global Ambassador. “When the Dutch 办调茶师大赛时，我便想要试试身手。对我来 Dilmah Tea Sommelier competition came along in the Netherlands 说，参加比赛是最有效率的学习方式。我已经 in 2009, I wanted to enter – for me, taking part in competitions is 拿到几个鸡尾酒的奖项，想拓展自己的视野。 the fastest way to learn. I hoped to broaden my horizons, since I’d 你可以询问关于我酒吧里任何一瓶酒，我对它 already won competitions for cocktails. You could ask me anything 们的特性暸如指掌，包括怎么混合和搭配等等。 about any spirit on my back bar and I could name its characteristics 至于茶，我无时无刻都在喝茶，但我对它的了 and how to mix it and pair it, but tea – I’d been drinking it all my life, 解并不深入。很多人会觉得，茶不就只是一杯 but I didn’t know much about it. A lot of people think cup of water, 水，一份茶包而已吗？那就大错特错了。」 teabag, that’s tea. That’s not tea.” Schinkel 买了 Dilmah 一整个系列的茶为 In preparation for the challenge, Schinkel bought the whole 比赛作好准备，以决定他的酒谱中要使用哪种 line of Dilmah teas to help him decide which of the intriguing infu茶叶，来泡出引人入胜的作品。对他来说，品 sions to use in his recipes. Actually tasting the tea had a profound 茶本身就是件意义深长的事。他说：「我很喜 effect. “I have been drinking tea for as long as I can remember,” 欢喝茶，伯爵茶是我最常享用的。但当我第一 he says, “And I always drank Earl Grey. But trying Dilmah Earl Grey 次尝到 Dilmah 的伯爵茶时，顿时 for the first time was an eye-opener and made me BY 觉得耳目一新，也觉得有点羞愧。」 feel a little ashamed.” LUCY MORGAN Schinkel 表示他在调茶时需要 According to Schinkel, special care is required 注意到很多细节。「茶是一种很细 when working with tea in mixology. “Tea is a delicate PHOTOGRAPHY BY 腻的东西，我不会说它很困难，但 ingredient – I wouldn’t say difficult – but you need to DAVID HARTUNG 你必须了解怎样才是最适合的冲泡 understand what proper tea brewing is. You’ve got to 方式。你要知道如何泡茶才能把茶 know how to get the best out of the leaf, especially 叶品质完全发挥，特别是把茶叶拿来调鸡尾酒 when it comes to using tea in cocktails. You have to brew it stron的时候。你必须把它泡得比平常更浓，因为酒 ger than you normally would, because you’re diluting the tea with 精、冰块和其他甜的、酸的、苦的东西都会稀 alcohol, with ice, and with sweet ingredients, sours, or bitters.” 释茶的味道。」Schinkel 推荐把口味较淡的绿 Matching lighter-flavored green and white teas with clear

•

spirits like gin and vodka is Schinkel’s recommendation. “Actually,” he laughs, “gin goes well with all tea. Gin is an infused spirit and tea is an infusion as well, so the flavors make room for each other.” As for smoky teas like the mysterious Dilmah Ceylon Souchong, which derives its delicious scent from cinnamon wood fire, he advises aged spirits without much smoke in their flavor: “That way all the smokiness comes from the tea.” Schinkel continues to discover new ways to match tea with other ingredients, but he advises care in balancing its fragile flavors: “Tea can combine with a great range of herbs and fruits, so it’s easy to make connections. And though it can be easily overpowered, you can do a lot with tea in cocktails.”

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茶和白茶，与琴酒和伏特加等较清柔的基酒结合。他笑着说：「琴酒能搭配各种茶，琴酒是种经过泡制过程的酒，这点跟茶是一样的，所以它们的口味会互相平衡、相辅相成。」至于像神秘的 Dilmah 锡兰小种红茶，这样带肉桂木烟熏香味的茶，Schinkel 则建议使用烟熏味不要太重的陈年酒来搭配。

Schinkel 不断探索能够与茶搭配的新成分，但茶的口味相当容易受添加物影响，因此他非常谨慎。「茶可以跟很多的香料或水果搭配。虽然茶的口味很容易被盖过去，但醇茶配鸡尾酒还是能调出无限多的组合。」

夜间温度在沿海加利福尼亚浸进入高四十多岁，但我们的游泳池颂歌一般加热到 79 度 ; 温差推动从水面蒸汽了一个令人毛骨悚然的列，产生一个狼人电影的怪异氛围。接下来是震撼。头朝下浸入的温水送我们到 heode 意大利的比赛，我们有快速设置热身圈的回应。当我们完成，我们的教练出现的雾。他没有提供友好的赞誉，套，间隔，并嘱托只是一个刚性方案。因此 stode 到意大利的其他锻炼。 4500 码去，然后快速淋浴和一个五分钟的车程去学校。然后，它返回到池中 ; 下午的训练计划提供额外的 5500 码。明天，我们都 stode 意大利一遍。该目的是通过一第二的另一第十削减我们时代。最终的目标是实现在一个种族分离失败的成功，伟大来自平凡年底的微小，无法解释的差异。不知怎的，我们接受了球场 - 否则，我们还是会在我们深层的床垫，沉睡已久的下方我们的毛毯。在这项运动中，拮抗剂是时间。教练花时间在专门的诊所，分析培训技术的最新研究成果，并尝试锻炼时间表，企图打败时间。然而，也有取胜没有捷径可走，而训练是痛苦的。我把颇得意大利在我的第一个游泳比赛时，我十岁。我的父母，怕受伤，我执导的运动兴趣远离冰球和入池。三个星期到我的新的游泳事业，我不知怎么说服我的教练让我进入一年一度的年龄组相遇。令他惊讶的（和我），我掏出一个 “A” 的时间。我通过赢得 “16 强 ” 奖项，各年龄组，设置俱乐部纪录，并且被评为全国第一队

Tea Mixologist and Global Ambassador Robert Schinkel 调茶师兼 Dilmah 品牌大使 Robert Schinkel LEAF TO CUP | TK |

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TEA MIXOLOGIST

BLAZED PIRATE’S CHAI (FLAMING COCKTAIL) 热情海盗 ( 火焰鸡尾酒 )

A creamy hot drink which tastes like liquid gingerbread, this cocktail combines Dilmah Brilliant Breakfast tea (brewed for five minutes) with condensed milk, orange zest, sugar, mixed spices and rum. Schinkel sets fire to the drink and pours it between two metal cups multiple times until the blue flames flicker and fade. It’s a dangerous business, as Schinkel explains: “The flame is very hot. I can’t tell you how hot, as I have never dared to stick my finger in it. I have never burned myself making it, but I have seen guys get serious burns. I make it look easy then sometimes people think they can try it. Don’t try this at home .” 这是杯滑顺、喝起来像液态姜饼的热饮，把冲泡五分钟的橙皮、糖、混合香料及兰姆酒结合。 Dilmah 明亮早茶和炼乳、 Schinkel 点燃了这杯酒，将它在两个金属杯之间倒来倒去，不断重复，直到蓝色的火焰开始闪烁，再逐渐褪去。整个过程相当危险，Schinkel 解释道：「这火焰非常的烫。我没办法跟你说有多烫，因为我从来不敢把手指放进去。我在调制它时还没被烫到过，但我看过有人被严重烧伤。我做起来好像很简单，所以有时候客人会觉得他们也可以试试看。我要在这里强调，绝对不要自行尝试！」

60 ml Ron Zacapa 15 60 ml Dilmah Brilliant Breakfast tea (5 minute brew) 40 ml condensed milk Pinch of cinnamon Pinch of ground black pepper Orange zest 1 barspoon of sugar   1. Add the rum, the sugar and the zest to mug 1 and set it on fire 2. Add the rest to mug 2 and stir 3. Throw the flaming rum from mug 1 to mug 2 and back 4. Repeat 5 times 5. Pour into a toddy glass

60 毫升 Ron Zacapa 15 60 毫升 Dilmah 明亮早茶 ( 冲泡 5 分钟 ) 40 毫升炼乳肉桂少许黑胡椒少许橙皮

1 茶匙糖 1.

将兰姆酒、糖和橙皮加入

1 号杯，点火 2.

将其余材料加入 2 号杯并搅拌

把燃烧的兰姆酒从 1 号杯倒入 2 号杯，再倒回来

4. 反覆进行 5.

5次

再倒入托地杯中

HONEYFLOWER (MOCKTAIL) 甜蜜花园 ( 无酒精鸡尾酒 )

Schinkel starts with a drinking jar and briskly muddles ice cubes inside to frost the glass. He combines chamomile tea, brewed for five minutes and then chilled, with organic apple juice, honey syrup, and lemon juice. A crisp green apple is artfully sliced into a fan to embellish the jar. Several dried chamomile flower heads floating on the surface of the drink give a hint of what’s to come “The presentation is rustic,” says Schinkel, “since the contents are a simple blend of fruits and flowers.” Schinkel 拿起一只饮料杯，迅速往内放入冰块降温。将冲泡 5 分钟后放凉的洋甘菊茶，与有机苹果汁、蜂蜜糖浆和柠檬汁混合。一颗香脆的青苹果被精巧地削成扇形，成为杯上美丽的装饰。浮在「这杯酒水面上的数朵洋甘菊提示了此杯酒的精华。 Schinkel 说：满朴实的，因为它就只是水果和花的简单组合。」

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COME TO YOUR SENCHAS (CHILLED COCKTAIL) 煎茶冻饮 ( 冰凉鸡尾酒 )

This cool and sophisticated drink contains Sencha green tea, which is processed by the Japanese method of steaming rather than pan-firing. A blend of chilled Dilmah Sencha green tea and gin is flavored with homemade honey syrup, celery bitters, and lime juice. It is served in a champagne flute with a long twist of cucumber for garnish. “I cut it lengthways so it sticks up out of the glass,” says Schinkel. “When you take a sip, the cucumber’s freshness is the first thing to hit the nose.” 这杯冰凉而绝妙的鸡尾酒以煎茶为主要成分。煎茶是以日式熏蒸法制成，而非使用锅子加热。放凉的 Dilmah 煎茶先和琴酒混合，再以自制的蜂蜜糖浆、苦精和莱姆汁调味。接着倒入香槟杯中，搭配一片长而弯曲的小黄瓜作为装饰。「我是用纵切的方式，所以它长到能伸出杯外，在你尝第一口时，最先闻到的就是小黄瓜的鲜味。」

Peter Gago

WINE MASTER

大师风范

peter the great When it comes to naming the superheroes of the winemaking world, Peter Gago of Penfolds is near the top of the list. TK guest correspondent Eddie McDougall, aka The Flying Winemaker, sat down with Gago during a master class and dinner at Macau’s City of Dreams to gain some insights on his recent and future projects.

若谈及酿酒界代表性的顶尖人物，绝对不能不提「Penfolds」酒庄的Peter

Gago。他最近受邀于澳门新濠天地米芝莲星级餐厅御膳房主持尊贵晚宴及大

师班品酒会，期间与TK特约作者、或以「The Flying Winemaker」创办人之名广为人知的Eddie McDougall共进晚餐，畅谈近期及未来的计画。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

What were the roots of this special collaboration between City of Dreams and Penfolds? I have a good relationship with João Pires, Wine Director at City of Dreams, and over the years we’ve kept in touch as he moved in his work from city to city. Now that he’s in Macau, we have a great opportunity to work together. As you know, the 2004 Block 42 is very rare, with only twelve ampoules produced. They were sold in stages over the years and now in 2015, City of Dreams has procured one of the few remaining in the world. On the world stage, Penfolds is wellrespected for producing classic Australian red wines and is best known in Asia for Grange, Bin 707, Bin 389, and St Henri. What gives Block 42 Kalimna the right to stand shoulderto-shoulder with these long-established iconic labels? First, I would say because we simply produce so little of it as a single block wine, and

澳门新濠天地这次与 Penfolds 的合作渊源为何？我和新濠天地餐饮部餐酒总监 João Pires 很熟，即使他多年来奔波工作于世界各大城市，我们也一直保持联系。现在他长居澳门，我们当然要把握机会一起合作。你也知道 2004 年份的 Block 42 非常稀有，只生产了限量的 12 瓶 AMPOULE 红酒，逐年不同阶段贩售，时间来到 2015 年，新濠天地也将此批稀世佳酿之一纳入酒藏。

Ampoule Sculpture

放诸全球，Penfolds 也是倍受推崇的澳洲经典红酒品牌，在亚洲又以 Grange、Bin 707、Bin 389 及 St Henri 等几支酒最为知名。 Block 42 Kalimna 有什么特别之处，能和这些长销的经典系列相提并论？首先，作为单一葡萄园葡萄酒，Block 42 Kalimna 酿造的数量非常少，要达到 2004 年的品质更是可遇不可求。此单一葡萄园酿酒目前制造的年份仅有 1953、1963、 1996 及 2004，而 1964 年则是顶级混酿葡萄酒 Bin 707 问世的重要一年。再来，此款酒的葡萄品种可回溯至 19

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WINE MASTER

If you were to produce one last Penfolds wine in your career, what would it be? It would definitely be Magill Estate Shiraz. This is the true beginning of Penfolds and it’s where its heart and soul lies. You describe Block 42 as having a “saturated blackness” on the palate. Can you elaborate? The blackness refers to the depth and concentration of intense dark fruit and spicy flavors. When I taste this wine, I see

世纪，由自身天然丰富的葡萄根系所孕育而成，果味非常浓郁。这种赤霞珠葡萄种味道厚实，除了在巴罗莎山谷一些古老的 Moppa 葡萄园以外，还真没在其他地方发现过。

如果在你职业生涯中只能为 Penfolds 做最后一支酒，那会是什么？毫无疑问，绝对是 Magill Estate Shiraz，代表的不仅是 Penfolds 的开端，也是核心及灵魂之所在。您形容 Block 42 的味道有种「深邃浓郁的口感」，能否进一步说明？深邃指的是这种深色葡萄带有浓缩丰厚和辛辣的味道，层次结构丰富。酒一入口，味道从黑醋栗的浓郁转为蓝莓的优雅韵致。

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it moving from a thick black-currant flavor profile and then transitioning towards the elegance of blueberries. The spice is quite subtle in its youth, but you’ll notice it as the wine evolves in the cellar. From the various press releases, it’s clear that the creation of Block 42 was meant to celebrate the innovation and experimentation of the artists behind both the wine and the ampoule design. As the winemaker, what were your innovations and experiments? At Penfolds a lot of the investment in innovation starts in the vineyards. But with Block 42 the vines are so old and self-sufficient that there isn’t much more value we can add by improving the fruit. We simply need to nurture them. In terms of winemaking innovations, we’ve invested a lot of time and resources in research into alternative closures and packaging methods. As you can see with ampoule wine, this is just the start and it’s something that’s pushing all the boundaries of research and tradition.

年份少的 Block 42 辣味相当隐晦，随着窖藏时间越久酒香会越发明显。

综合不同新闻资料可以知道，Block 42 是为了向创作这款酒及 AMPOULE 瓶身的职人致敬，赞扬所蕴含的创新及试验精神。身为酿酒师，您的创新及试验又是什么？在 Penfolds，许多创新投入皆从葡萄园开始，但 Block42 本身历史悠久，依赖自身根系就能成长茁壮，改良果实也不会增添太多附加价值，我们只要负责把葡萄种植好即可。不过谈到酿酒技术创新，我们也投入了很多时间及资源研发新的封瓶及包装方法。AMPOULE 瓶身只是个开端，它推动我们继续推动研发，打破传统界限。目前我最感兴趣的是探索除了酒瓶盖或软木塞以外，不同封装方法带来的影响。

Something I am really interested in at the moment is exploring the effects of glass closures as an alternative to cork or screw caps. With every wine as prestigious as Grange – and now Kalimna Block 42 – there will always be questions of cellaring potential and the optimum drinking window. What’s your opinion on this? Does the ampoule packaging make a difference in aging potential? Honestly, it’s hard to predict or offer insights, since this is the first time we’ve ever bottled it in an ampoule – it’s too early to tell. Based on previous vintages of Block 42 wines, we’re pretty confident that this wine will be long-lived, so we’re all really excited to see how this evolves over time. Can we expect to see another vintage of the Block 42 in the near future? If so, which vintages are likely contenders to make it into the ampoule? Unfortunately, nothing since 2004 has made the grading into a single Block 42 wine. Fingers crossed for vintage 2016.

顶级酒款如 Grange，抑或现在的 Kalimna Block 42，都会面临窖藏潜力及最佳饮用期等问题。您的见解为何？ AMPOULE 瓶对葡萄酒陈年酒藏会有影响吗？这是我们首次尝试 AMPOULE 瓶装，老实说要预测或提出什么见解都有一定难度，现在说还为时尚早。不过根据之前 Block 42 系列葡萄酒的表现来看，这支酒要陈年窖藏完全没问题，我们也引颈期待经过时间的酝酿熬制，将会出现何种进展。近期还可能推出另一支 Block 42 酒款吗？若是，会是那一支以 AMPOULE 瓶装上市？很可惜，2004 年之后还没能酿制出达到单一葡萄园 Block 42 水准的葡萄酒，只能寄望 2016 年！

DAVID HARTUNG

it’s really rare to have excellent vintages like the 2004. We’ve only made it into a single block wine in 1953, 1963, 1996, and 2004. In 1964, it was an important blending component of the first-ever Bin 707. Second, the vines date back to the nineteenth century and they’re planted on their own natural root system, which produces fruit of intense flavors. It’s an incredibly concentrated style of Cabernet Sauvignon that I’ve only seen from these old Moppa vineyards in the Barossa Valley.

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P R E S E N T E D B Y D I A G E O R E S E R V E W O R L D C L A S S TM

明星酒吧

star bar The world’s finest portfolio of luxury spirits inspires trendsetting cocktails at one of the world’s top bars.

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L O B S T E R B A R A N D G R I L L at Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong, is one of the city’s select venues, sought out by those looking for drinks mixed with genuine style in surroundings that fuse an elegant cool with a warm social buzz. Mellow jazz from the baby grand, deep armchairs that beckon to be sunk into, shimmering views of the skyline from the deck or stools at the bar – the place exudes a self-assured sense of luxury, ease, and pleasure. The crowd is a discerning mix of hotel guests, business travelers, and in-the-know Hong Kong locals. In 2015, Lobster Bar and Grill became the first hotel bar in Asia to make the prestigious list of The World’s 50 Best Bars. One big factor in its status as a place to be is the masterful touch of Agung Prabowo, bar manager and renowned innovator of mixed drinks. Prabowo, who has worked at top establishments throughout Asia, brought his fifteen-plus years of experience and knowledge to Island Shangri-La in 2012. Originally from Jakarta, Prabowo had always aspired to make bartending his profession. He was influenced in part by Tom Cruise in Cocktail, but mostly by a need to do something fueled by his deep inner drive for excellence. “For me, it’s about heart and passion. Anyone can learn techniques and follow a recipe, but if the person making it isn’t passionate about what he’s doing, I believe you can taste it in the drink.” His signature style involves creative contemporary interpretations of old favorites. “I like to take the classics and give them a new spin,” he explains, “often with an Asian influence.” At the heart of his drinks is the untouchable quality of the RESERVE portfolio. Ketel One, Don Julio, and Bulleit Rye are some of the building blocks of cocktails that have led to popular and award-winning critical acclaim. “The journey that Lobster Bar has been on is quite extraordinary – this year has been a great one for us. It’s a dream, really, being named to The World’s 50 Best Bars.” Some have speculated that Prabowo must possess a sixth sense for what people are in the mood to drink. “I’m not saying I’m psychic, but I can usually feel what they’re going to want. You have to have a connection with your customers. Everyone used to say, ‘Ladies can’t have a Manhattan,’ but I said, ‘Why not?’” LEAF TO CUP | TK |

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ROCK ‘N’ RYE This is so-called because we use Bulleit Rye whiskey and garnish it with a rock! The Bulleit Rye is peppery on the palate and goes well together with honey. The drink also uses more of our house-made ingredients, honeysuckle mixed with real flowers and orange-blossom syrup. The syrup goes in the shaker first with lemon juice, lime purée, two bitters – Angostura and plum – and then the Bulleit Rye. Then I hard shake for fifteen seconds – the fifteen-second shake is my signature! We double strain it and serve it in a rock glass. The garnish is very cool – it’s actually a piece of rock that we freeze for twenty-four hours. 这名字的由来，是我们用了 Bulleit Rye 威士忌调制，最后还用石头装饰！

Bulleit Rye 口感辛辣，非常适合搭配蜂蜜。此外，这款调酒也用了不少自制的原料，像是加了鲜花和橙花糖浆的忍冬酒。糖浆放入马克杯，先加柠檬汁、莱，再放 Bulleit Rye，用力摇荡 15 秒，姆泥和两种苦精（Angostura 苦精和李子苦精）这 15 秒摇荡是我的招牌！最后经过双重过滤，再倒入威士忌杯饮用。它的装饰很炫，是一块冰了 24 小时的真正石头。

DAVID HARTUNG (2 + PREVIOUS PAGE )

龙虾吧餐厅位于港岛香格里拉大酒店，是香港极具代表性的酒吧，最适合想要放松心情，自在小酌的人士。在这里，你可以优雅啜饮冰凉调酒，同时感受热烈社交氛围。平台钢琴轻轻奏出醇厚的爵士乐音，舒适的扶手椅声声唤人轻松坐下，从酒吧的露天阳台或单脚高椅欣赏得到万家灯火的天际线，这里无处不散发着奢华、自在、愉悦的自信氛围。酒吧客人里有的是酒店的住宿宾客，有的是商旅人士，有的是内行的本地人。龙虾吧餐厅于 2015 年入选全球最佳酒吧前五十名，成为亚洲首家获此殊荣的酒店酒吧，如此辉煌成绩很大一部分归功于 Agung Prabowo 的杰出成就，他是酒吧经理，同时也是知名的调酒师。 Prabowo 曾服务于亚洲各地顶级酒吧，具有超过 15 年的丰富经验和专业知识积累，自 2012 年起效力于港岛香格里拉大酒店。 Prabowo 来自雅加达，从小就向往调酒的工作，部分原因是受到电影《鸡尾酒》里汤姆 • 克鲁斯的影响，不过主要还是为了满足内心深处对于追求卓越的渴望。Prabowo 说道：「对我来说，用心和热情都很重要。其实每个人都能学到技术，按照酒谱调出酒来，可是调酒的人如果对自己的作品缺乏热情，我相信你一定可以品尝得出来。」他的调酒风格是以当代创意手法，诠释广受欢迎的传统酒款。「我喜欢挑战经典，赋予它们全新的面貌，往往带点亚洲色彩。」他的调酒以品质无与伦比的 RESERVE 珍选品牌顶级酒款为基酒，其中多款广受喜爱并获得重大奖项肯定的调酒，都有用到 Ketel One、Don Julio 和 Bulleit Rye。「龙虾吧一路走来经历不凡，而今年对我们是特别了不起的一年，因为我们入选了全球最佳酒吧前五十名，简直就跟做梦一样。」有人猜 Prabowo 一定有第六感应，都知道客人想喝什么。「我没有特异功能，但我很容易感受到他们内心的想望，满足这点必须要与客人拥有良好的互动和增加对他们的了解。大家常说：女人不能碰曼哈顿。在我看来，这又有何不可？」

JAVANESE COLD FLIP Again, this is inspired by a classic cocktail, a flip, in this case containing egg, sugar, and spices. Because I’m from Indonesia, I tweaked it a little bit with the addition of jamu, a traditional herbal drink made from turmeric, lemongrass, tamarind, lime juice, and brown sugar. The Ketel One vodka balances this drink perfectly. A flip needs pure alcohol and Ketel One has this kind of flavor, a copper-style taste that adds body. We make a salted coconut butter in-house and mix it up with the jamu and egg. We then dry shake – in other words, without ice – for fifteen to twenty seconds, or you can do it with a hand blender. It’s topped up with the Ketel One, ice, and a pineapple straw – also made in house. It’s creamy, sweet, and spiced all at once. 这款也是以典型调酒－蛋蜜酒为灵感来源的创意调酒，我们用了蛋、糖和香料做为原料，因为我来自印尼，所以额外加了一点点佳木 ( jamu)，这是用黄姜、香茅、罗望子、莱姆汁和红糖调制的传统青草茶，Ketel One 伏特加能和这种茶饮达到完美的平衡。蛋蜜酒需要纯酒精，而 Ketel One 就有这个味道，铜制蒸馏器蒸馏出来的特殊风味，使酒体更为浓烈。我们自制咸椰子酱，用来跟佳木和鸡蛋混合后，不加冰块摇荡 15 至 20 秒，也可用手动搅拌器代劳。最后放入

Ketel One、冰块和一根凤梨吸管（这同样也是我们自制的）。香甜细滑，热辣刺激，一口俱全。

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DON POM SWIZZLE This cocktail was created for last year’s World Class competition by one of my team members, Gerry. It’s kind of like a paloma, a classic tequila cocktail, using Don Julio, pomegranate, and a special swizzle. We take Don Julio Blanco, Pedro Ximénez sherry, and a pepper pomegranate syrup made in-house. It works perfectly because the Don Julio is a little bit peppery and citrusy, and the lemongrass swizzle adds a unique touch. We don’t shake or stir the cocktail at all, but just use a lemongrass stalk, rubbing it between our palms to swizzle the drink. We serve it with fresh pomegranate and top up with rhubarb soda, again made right here at Lobster Bar. It’s very refreshing and very popular, especially in summer.

结果出乎意料的好喝，了 Don Julio Blanco、 Pedro Ximénez 雪利酒和自家调制的胡椒石榴糖浆， Don Julio 有些辛辣，带点柑橘香气，而香茅思维索则为整体增添一股独特的口感。我们没有做任何摇荡或搅拌动作，只拿香茅杆在手掌之间摩擦，借以发挥混合的效果。加上新鲜石榴，最后倒上同样也是龙虾吧自制的大黄苏打水。喝起来十分清凉有劲，尤其是在夏天很受欢迎。

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DAVID HARTUNG ( 7)

这款调酒是我的团队成员 Gerry 去年为了参加 World Class 世界顶尖调酒师大赛而创作的，有。我们用点像是以 Don Julio、石榴和特调思维索 (swizzle) 调出的经典龙舌兰调酒「帕洛玛」

REPOSADO MANHATTAN This is one of the most classic of cocktails. I wanted to explore it a little and give it a twist before it went on our new menu. I love the history of cocktails, how they’ve changed over time and what can be done differently. First, I use Don Julio Reposado instead of the traditional rye. The Reposado has caramel and special notes from the raw agave. I put equal parts of it and Cocchi vermouth into a mixing glass, add ice and three big dashes of Angostura bitters, then stir for fifteen seconds. A typical Manhattan doesn’t have ice but we serve ours with nice crystal ice and orange zest instead of an orange slice. The secret is to think about the temperature and also the way you stir. Heart is also important. With any cocktail, if you don’t put heart into it, then it just isn’t going to be delicious! 这是最经典的调酒之一，是经过我一番探索调整才放进新酒单的产品。我热爱研究调酒的历史，了解它们的流变，思索可以做点什么改变。首先，我用的是 Don Julio Reposado，而非传统的黑麦威士忌。

Reposado 带有焦糖香气和生龙舌兰的特殊风味。我在调杯放入一份 Reposado 和一份 Cocchi 苦艾酒，再加冰块和大约 3 毫升的 Angostura 苦精，然后搅拌 15 秒。典型的曼哈顿不加冰块，但我们这款曼哈顿放了晶莹剔透的漂亮冰块，并用橙皮取代橙片。秘诀是注意温度和搅拌方式，还有用心也很重要，任何调酒如果缺乏用心，成品肯定不如人意！

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK 《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

(15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, November Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Pacific Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Novemberfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

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CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd. Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

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PRESENTED BY FHC CHINA

www.fhcchina.com Preregister to receive your visitor’s badge in advance. 请登录进行预登记

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Global food suppliers come to Shanghai 全球食品供应商聚集于上海

空前盛况备受瞩目 China’s premier food and hospitality exhibition expands to keep pace with soaring consumer demand.

Than Before This November 11-13, the nation’s only trade show dedicated exclusively to imported food and drink, FHC China 2015, will take place at the Shanghai New International Expo Center. Food and drink manufacturers, importers, and distributors numbering 2,150 from 73 countries will gather under seven very large roofs to offer 70,000 square meters of unrivaled point-of-access to China’s increasingly food-savvy urban consumers. It is FHC’s nineteenth year and the third for ProWine China, the highly popular companion show for wine and spirits. China’s appetite for international foods is seemingly insatiable. By 2018, the country is projected to become the world’s largest market for imported foods. The organizers of FHC attribute this phenomenal growth to consumer demand for greater variety, as well as concerns about quality and safety. Demand on the part of exhibitors has been so high this year that 40 percent more space than last season has been reserved. The mammoth exposition, with numerous seminars and product tastings throughout, will be arranged by food categories as well as by countries, dozens of which will be sponsoring national pavilions. A number of popular special zones will be returning from previous years, including Tea & Coffee China and Meat @ FHC China. Two new areas, Chocolate China and Beer China, reflect the nation’s growing demand for greater quality and variety in these products. Expansion in the markets for both retail and hospitality chocolates has been strong, and China’s beer imports, which continue to climb rapidly, jumped by a whopping 91 percent in 2014. A Beer Tasting Master Class will provide participants with essential tools to introduce the world’s beers to consumers who are thirsty for knowledge. Exhibitors will be able to submit their beers to a panel of brew masters and Chinese beverage experts, who will offer information and guidance

on up to ten beers per session in a noncompetitive environment. Also new is the FHC Hotel & Restaurant feature, offering a complete platform for foodservice and catering equipment suppliers and buyers to meet, source a wide range of hospitality products, and discuss the latest industry trends across China. FHC will once again host the Ultimate Barista Challenge, where China’s top baristas go headto-head in cupping and latte art contests. The International Culinary Arts competition will see three hundred chefs from across China compete for honors in nineteen categories. Another new feature this year is the Marco Polo International Gelato Cup, a competition bringing together teams of the best gelato chefs from Italy, Germany, Poland, China, and the Taiwan region to be judged by a panel of international gelato champions. As part of the event, leading suppliers of gelato ingredients and equipment will feature their products. In 2014, 34,761 professionals, including chefs, top-level hotel and restaurant managers, and other buyers, visited FHC. Organizers expect at least 35,000 this year. Preregistration, which is recommended, is available online, along with tools for navigating the vast and comprehensive arrays of premium products from around the world: www.fhcchina.com. 2015 年 11 月 11 日至 13 日，上海国际食品饮料及餐饮设备展览会 (FHC)— 中国最大型的进口食品与饮料专门展会，将在上海新国际博览中心盛大举行。为期三天的展会将吸引来自 73 个国家、总共 2,150 家食品与饮料供应商、进口商和经销商齐聚一堂。这场在占地七万平方米的会场上举办的空前感官飨宴，可望能满足中国城市消费者日渐讲究的精致味蕾。今年是适逢 FHC 开办的第 19 届，同时登场的第三届上海国际进口酒类精品展更是极受好评，令人期待。中国对于国际食品的需求似乎永无止境。

预估至 2018 年，中国将成为全球最大的进口食品市场。展会主办方认为，中国进口食品市场的惊人成长，可归因于消费者渴望接触更多样化的事物，以及对品质和安全日渐重视。今年参展厂商十分踊跃，主办单位必须较上一次预留多四成的展位空间以迎合参展需求。这场规模前所未有的盛会依据食物与国家类别分区，场内亦有研讨会和产品品鉴。其中有数十个展位资助国家展团，一些前几年大受欢迎的专区此次再度参展，包括茶与咖啡专区以及肉类专区。本次展会还新设了巧克力、啤酒两个专区，反映出中国消费者对此类产品的品质要求与需求种类均与日俱增，不仅零售和酒店巧克力市场持续强劲扩张，中国的啤酒进口量在 2014 年更急速暴增了 91%。在国际啤酒品鉴大师班上，求知若渴的与会者能认识来自世界各地的啤酒。而参展商将有机会呈送自家啤酒予酿酒大师和中国饮品专家进行品鉴，在无竞争的氛围中，单一场次便可获得至多十种啤酒的资讯与指导。另一崭新亮点，是将在酒店设备专区给餐饮服务与设备供应商和买家提供一个会面交流的完整平台，参展者可在此发掘各式各样的餐饮业产品货源，并一同讨论中国近期的产业趋势。 FHC 此次也将再度主办中国咖啡大师终极挑战赛，让与会者一睹中国顶尖咖啡师杯评与拉花技艺的决斗。中国国际烹饪艺术比赛则将有来自全中国各地 300 位厨师在 19 个项目中彼此较量，争取荣誉。而首次登场的马可波罗国际意式冰淇淋大赛，将汇聚来自意大利、德国、波兰、中国、台湾地区首屈一指的意式冰淇淋厨师团队一较高下，并由数名国际意式冰淇淋冠军担任评审。活动中，意式冰淇淋材料与设备的一流供应商也将展出自家产品。去年与会的专业人士多达 34,761 位，包括厨师、旅馆与餐厅高阶经理人及其他买家。主办单位预估今年与会者将增至 35,000 人，建议有兴趣者提前上网报名，还可抢先一览琳琅满目、应有尽有的寰宇美馔！ leaf to cup

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$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

8½ Otto e Mezzo BOMBANA

Italian 1031, 1/F, Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡假城银河酒店1楼1031 q +853 8886 2169 Mon to Sat: 17:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

Feng Wei Ju 风味居 Hunanese and Sichuanese 5/F, StarWorld Hotel, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店5楼 q +853 9280 8668 Daily: 11:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Lobster Bar & Grill, Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong 龙虾吧餐厅 International Level 6, Island Shangri-La HK, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, Central, Hong Kong 香港中区法院道太古广场港岛香格里拉大酒店六楼 q +852 2820 8560 Daily: 12:00-15:00; 16:30-23:00 A Smart Casual

LockCha Tea House offers fresh vegetarian dim sum. 乐茶轩供应新鲜可口的素食点心。

Upper Ground Floor, 290A, Queen’s Road Central, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环皇后大道中290B号高层地下 q +852 2805 1360 Daily: 10:00-20:00 5

Palm Court, The Langham HK 廷廊 Afternoon Tea The Langham, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong 香港九龙尖沙咀北京道8号朗廷酒店 q +852 2132 7898 Mon to Fri: 15:00-17:30 Sat & Sun: 14:15-18:30 A Smart Casual 5

Temptations 品味坊 International 16/F StarWorld Hotel, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店16楼 q +852 8290 8688 Mon to Fri: 7:00-22:00 Sat & Sun: 12:00-22:00 5

A Smart Casual

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Japanese 11/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Macau 澳门广东大马路澳门新濠锋十一楼 q +853 2886 8868 Tue to Sun: 12:00-14:30; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

The Lobby, The Peninsula Hong Kong 大堂茶座 International All Day Dining The Peninsula HK, Salisbury Road, Tsimshatsui, Hong Kong 香港九龙梳士巴利道香港半岛酒店 q +852 2696 6772 Sun to Thur, 7:00-00:00; Fri to Sat, 7:00-01:00 A Smart Casual

Vida Rica Bar 御苑酒吧 Bar and Lounges 2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8929 Mon to Thur: 17:00-00:00, Fri: 17:00-01:00 Sat: 15:00-01:00, Sun: 15:00-00:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Tasting Room 御膳房 French 3/F, Crown Towers, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地澳门皇冠度假酒店三楼 q +853 8868 6681 Mon to Sun: 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual. Gentlemen should refrain from wearing sleeveless t-shirts, shorts, open shoes (sandals) or slippers. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the bar area and the private dining room. 5

Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐厅 Chinese & Western 2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路澳门文华东方酒店二楼 q +853 8805 8919 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Ying 帝影楼 Cantonese 11/F, Altira Macau, Avenida de Kwong Tung, Macau 澳门广东大马路澳门新濠锋11楼 q +853 2886 8868 Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

LockCha Tea House 乐茶轩

Tenmasa 天政

DAVID HARTUNG

DESSERT

Chef Joe Chan, Executive Chef at Temptations, StarWorld Macau, makes the most of the season’s bounty in a selection of appealing autumn desserts. His fruit compote of blueberries, raspberries, and black cherries is served with homemade walnut ice cream and finished with a caramelized orange sauce – perfect as the denouement at dinner or just all on its own. 澳门星际酒店品味坊餐饮部行政总厨陈继祖善用丰富的当令食材，制作出一系列令人垂涎的秋季甜点。这道焦糖草莓伴腰果雪糕使用糖渍蓝莓、覆盆子、黑樱桃，搭配手工自制腰果雪糕，并以焦糖橙酱作结，最适合为晚餐做圆满的收场，作为单独甜品享用亦让人意犹未尽。

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Hong Kong & Macau enquiries: drinks@bomcarma.com