TK14 French Heavyweights by Tasting Kitchen (TK)

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T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

PARIS Heights

of Simplicity 极简至上 FRENCH RIVIERA Roc Stars 星耀盛宴 HONG KONG Pastry Pinnacle 甜点至尊

DAVID HARTUNG

starter

For a Zen approach to duck liver try “The Rock,” created by Dominique Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food and Beverage at Mandarin Oriental Macau. Inspired by a Japanese rock garden, balls of duck liver terrine are marinated in port wine, coated in cocoa butter and placed atop sweet corn mash and slivers of duck skin roasted with five spices. Meditate on the dish’s beguiling color and symmetry before tucking in for a taste. 想知道什么是「以禅意料理的鸭肝」吗？尝尝澳门文华东方酒店厨艺及餐饮总监贝铭乐设计的这道 “The Rock” 吧！设计灵感来自日本石园，把一抹抹鸭肝酱浸泡在葡萄酒中，裹上可可油，再放在甜玉米泥和充满光泽、以五种香料烙烤的鸭皮上。在大快朵颐之前，别忘了为这道菜诱人的色彩和匀称的装盘沉思一晌。

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french heavyweights

TK |

T A S T I N G

K I T C H E N

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

Tasting Kitchen www.tasting-kitchen.com 1001, Apec Plaza, 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: +852 2642 0008

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer.

Mark Hammons FOUNDER & PUBLISHER mark@tasting-kitchen.com

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ART DIRECTOR

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J. Carl Kerkman, MFA

Lucy Morgan

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Marilyn Burkley Natalia Cortes-Chaffin Jeff Hammons EDITORS

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14 Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food.

T A S T I N G 14

K I T C H E N

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

PARIS

Heights of Simplicity 极简至上 Roc Stars 星耀盛宴 Pastry Pinnacle 甜点至尊

FRENCH RIVIERA HONG KONG 2014

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Chef Eric Frechon of Le Bristol Paris leads diners along a flavor path marked out by the lightest semolina cut with juicy zucchini. The spiral leads to a selection of delicate cuts from a sweet-fleshed, milk-fed lamb. A hint of spice is provided by some fragrant harissa, while a touch of argan oil adds perfume. Read more about Chef Eric Frechon starting on page 74. Le Bristol Paris 酒店主厨 Eric Frechon 巧用细致小麦粉和多汁栉瓜为饕客们带来最新颖的感动。甜美的奶饲羊肉透过精巧工法以螺线方式呈献，辛味十足的哈里萨酱火辣带劲，少许榛果树油更增添香气。想更了解主厨Eric Frechon，请翻到本刊第74 页。 Photography by David Hartung

publisher’s note

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. In this issue, French Heavyweights, we learn from some of France’s leading forces in gastronomy and oenology. TK travels to one of the French Riviera’s most fabled destinations, the Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes, to join its centenary gala dinner. Eight top chefs from across Europe collaborate to create the culinary experience of a lifetime, each preparing a single extraordinary course. Wine pairings for the feast are selected by three world champion sommeliers. In Paris, celebrated Chef Eric Frechon of Le Bristol shares his philosophy – simplicity and seasonality – and explains how using curved lines and forms makes his food more sensual and appealing. A beautiful example of Frechon’s approach is featured on this issue’s cover. Back in Hong Kong, French pastry chef Pierre Herme discusses the importance of curiosity; Pierre Gagnaire recognizes the central role of technique; and prodigy Akrame Benallal shows how he has imported his Paris success to Ship Street. Our conversation with British chef Gordon Ramsay interrupts the French frenzy. His relentless energy, compelling presence, and fanatical attention to detail have helped him build a restaurant empire across five continents. We also have plenty of French wine to share. Pierre Lurton, head of Château d’Yquem, explains how noble rot helps to concentrate the beautiful aromatic notes of this storied wine, while Michel Rolland reflects on his work as the world’s most successful cellar coach. Bon appétit.

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DAVID HARTUNG

MARK HAMMONS

www.asc-wines.com

contents

2 STARTER 10 Swiss Movement • 12 Mapping the Terroir • 14 Single Obsession • 16 Harnessing Hermés Style • 18 Bee Beauty • 20 Liquid Assets 22 Where the Fizz Is • 24 Ladies that Lunch • 28 The Essence of Akrame • 32 Loaves and Fishes • 36 Roc Stars 58 The Three Chevaliers • 74 Heights of Simplicity • 82 Love, Art and Technique • 86 Pastry Pinnacle • 92 Straight to the Source

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contents

96 Fall Seasoning • 100 Big Man in the House • 106 Centre Stage • 110 Take a Walk on the Wild Side • 114 High Steaks 116 The Power of Soup • 118 Star Synergy • 120 Sunday Satisfaction • 124 Fire & Air • 128 Farmed for Flavor • 130 Vine Vitality 132 Sweet Spot • 140 Cellar Coach • 144 Perfect Finish • 152 Cantonese Celebration • 154 A Toast to Wine and Spirits 150 W H E R E T O F I N D T K • 158 R E S T A U R A N T L I S T I N G S • 160 D E S S E R T

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tasting news

运转瑞士

swiss movement Europe’s youngest three-star chef brings his creative focus to Hong Kong.

EARLY ON, Andreas Caminada knew exactly where he wanted to go. After finishing his apprenticeship at nineteen, he sped to the cosmopolitan kitchens of Canada. It was while entrenched in the culinary world of Vancouver that he first realized just how far a career in food might lead, and he swiftly returned to Switzerland to refine his skills in some of its most respected restaurants. It wasn’t long before he realized that what he truly desired was a place of his own. Serendipity led Caminada to Schloss Schauenstein, an imposing alpine castle twenty minutes from where he was raised. It was love at first sight. Yet it would take eight years to

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transform the palace into the glamorous hotel and restaurant he now presides over as patron-chef. Caminada’s meteoric ascent has been Michelin-star-studded: one in 2004, two in 2007, three in 2010. His secret: “Every ingredient on the plate plays a specific role and is arranged in a way so that all the senses are stimulated.” It is his imagination, his resourcefulness in exploiting contrasts, and the careful thought infusing his menus that make his cooking genuinely poetic. Diners will have the opportunity to savor Caminada’s genius at the Ritz-Carlton’s Tosca Restaurant on November 7th and 8th when he will preside over the kitchen.

从很早以前，Andreas Caminada 就非常清楚自己要

酒店和餐厅，如今他以老板主厨的身份负责经营

去哪里。 19 岁那年完成学徒训练之后，他马上进入

管理。

加拿大有如大都会的厨房工作，期间他在温哥华的

Caminada 飞快的窜起过程，一直少不了米其

厨艺界站稳脚跟，同时也意识到餐饮行业的前景有

林星级肯定：2004 年一星，2007 年二星，2010 年

多宽广。他旋即回到瑞士，先后进入几家声誉卓著

三星。他透露料理秘诀：「盘子上的每样食材都扮演

的餐厅累积经验和知识，不久他开始体认到，他真

特定角色，安排方式要让所有感官都能获得刺激。」

正想要的是一个属于自己的地方。

正是这种想像，还有他丰富的对比创意以及规划菜

因缘机遇下，Caminada 来到 Schloss Schauen–

单的细腻心思，使得他的料理蕴含真正的诗意。

11 月 7 日至 8 日香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 Tosca 餐

stein，一座气势宏伟的高山城堡，距离他的家乡仅二十分钟车程。 Caminada 对它一见即钟情，整

厅邀请 Caminada 客座掌厨，食客将有机会一尝他

整花了八年时间，将这座城堡改造成富丽堂皇的

的才气之作。

french heavyweights

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法式好滋味

mapping the terroir Lanshu Chen negotiates her culinary journey with a rare resolve, interpreting the classic cuisine of France through the indigenous products of her native land.

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tasting news

FOUR YEARS INTO STUDYING Foreign Literature at National Taiwan University, Lanshu Chen abruptly changed direction, jetting off to Paris to learn French cuisine at the source. This wasn’t as radical a shift as it may seem. Chen was simply following her childhood love of cooking, first fostered in a tiny Taiwanese kitchen filled with the flavors and scents of her mother’s and aunts’ recipes. After earning a pastry diploma from Le Cordon Bleu, Chen enhanced her training at Ferrandi before assuming positions at the establishments of such notable chefs as Piège, Chaucesse, Pignol, and Hermé. In 2008, her journey came full circle when she opened her French-centric restaurant, Le Moût, in Taichung, Taiwan. Acclaim quickly followed: she was named Grand Chef by Relais & Châteaux in 2011, and Veuve Clicquot Asia’s Best Female Chef in 2014. From November 6 to 8, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong has invited Chen to share her remarkable menus at its Tin Lung Heen Restaurant. How does she account for the relentless originality of her recipes? “The birth of each dish is just the extension of every step in my life.” 台湾大学外文系专研文学四年后，陈岚舒突然决定转换跑道，远赴法国学习法式料理，然而这条看似出乎意料的厨师之路其实有迹可循。陈岚舒几乎可说是在自家厨房长大，母亲及阿姨们拿手料理的怀旧味道及香气深深烙印在她的脑海中，负笈巴黎纯粹是为了一圆孩提时代的烹饪梦想。陈岚舒在蓝带厨艺学校顺利拿到糕点师傅证书后继续进入 Ferrandi 高等厨艺学院深造，后曾跟随 Piège, Chaucesse、Pignol 及 Hermé 等多位世界知名大厨精进厨艺。

2008 年台中「乐沐」法式餐厅落成为陈岚舒厨师生涯的一大里程碑，餐厅声名鹊起，备受好评。陈岚舒曾于顶级餐厅指南「Relais & Châteaux」2011 年评比中名列「杰出主厨 (Grand Chef)」之一，2014 年也获颁「Veuve Clicquot 亚洲最佳女主厨」荣衔。香港丽斯卡尔顿酒店「天龙轩」11 月 6 日至 8 日邀请陈岚舒客座，让香港饕客一尝主厨独到的雅致餐点。问到如何能持续不断地保持菜色原创性？陈岚舒表示：「每道菜都是我人生每个步伐的延伸。」 french heavyweights

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presented by highland park

单一的执著

single obsession With two intriguing new whiskies, Highland Park illustrates its status as one of the world’s finest single-malt producers.

WITH A LEGACY spanning over 200 years and a dedication to the finest craftsmanship, Highland Park whiskies are coveted by single-malt aficionados the world over. Located in Kirkwall of Orkley, Highland Park is Scotland’s northern-most whisky distillery, as well as one of the few remaining distilleries in the world to malt its own barley by hand, which accounts for the brand’s famously unique style and distinctively smoky aroma. Hong Kong devotees can now enjoy these whiskies locally, as Highland Park has finally released to the region two of their most coveted new expressions: Freya and Dark Origins . The 15-year-old Freya carries on the tradition of Highland Park’s Valhalla Collection; drinkers will find her full, rich and complex, with a lingering smoky finish of spice, toasted coconut, and soft orchard fruit. Those with a delicate nose will note the distinctive white chocolate and candied cherry aroma. With only 19,000 bottles of this premium spirit available globally, it’s one to secure without hesitation. Dark Origins has a backstory as intriguing and complex as its taste. Created as a tribute to Highland Park’s courageous and innovative founder Magnus Eunson, it pays homage to the original non-chill filtered single malt established in the late 1700s and distributed to the people of Orkney as relief against the villainy of the local tax collector—and what a relief it was! Dark Origins has the warm, rich and enticing flavor of dark chocolate and cherries accompanied by a naturally dark, full finish, which is only appropriate considering the single malt was discreetly distributed in the dead of night. With the arrival of Highland Park’s new expressions, discerning whisky fans will no doubt seize the moment to augment their collections with these award-winning single malts from one of Scotland’s finest distilleries.

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Highland Park 单一麦芽威士忌拥有逾两百年的历史，致力于保存传统顶级手工酿制技术，广受全球单一麦芽爱好人士欢迎。Highland Park 位于奥克尼群岛柯克沃尔，是苏格兰最北端的威士忌厂，也是全球少数仍坚持以手翻麦芽的传统酿酒厂，因而造就 Highland Park 威士忌独特的温润烟熏味。如今香港的威士忌迷有口福了，因为 Highland Park 将在香港推出两款备受殷盼的全新酒款：Freya 和 Dark

Origins 威士忌。Freya 这款十五年威士忌，延续 Highland Park Valhalla 系列的传统，味道饱满、馥郁且多变，绵长的烟熏尾韵交织着香料、烘烤椰子与温和的果园水果风味。嗅觉敏锐的品酒人士，还会察觉明显的白巧克力和糖渍樱桃芳香。此款佳酿全球限量一万九千瓶，绝对值得入手。而 Highland Park Dark Origins 的故事，就宛如它的味道一般精采诱人。Dark Origins 是向品牌智勇双全的创办人

Magnus Eunson 致敬之作，属于非冷凝过滤的单一麦芽威士忌。Highland Park 创于 18 世纪晚期，当时 Magnus 酿酒与奥克尼居民，大胆抵御抗命当地税收恶霸，果然艺高人胆大！ Dark Origins 的口感温润丰富，还有诱人的黑巧克力与樱桃风味，伴随着自然深邃且饱满的尾韵，毕竟这款单一麦芽当初是在夜半暗中配送，这样的搭配再恰当不过了。如今 Highland Park 在香港再献新猷，品味独到的威士忌迷绝对会把握难得的机会，收藏这两款屡次获奖项肯定、来自苏格兰一流酿酒厂的单一纯麦威士忌。

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inspired living

驾驭经典

harnessing hermés style H E R M É S L E G E N D A R Y L O G O , with its unmistakable profile of a horse-drawn carriage and debonair groom, speaks to the brand’s near two hundred years of unparalleled craftsmanship. The mark epitomizes the cultivation of a modern aesthetic threaded by timeless taste. Hermés is at once the past and the future blended into an impeccable present. Hermés’ new line of tea service, H Déco, features interlocking H’s inspired by the wrought iron friezes from the company’s landmark headquarters at 24 Faubourg Saint Honoré. Delineated in graphic black against pure white Limoges porcelain, the graphic patterns incorporate intriguing variations on themes of interlinking loops, fish scale filigrees, and classic Greek keys. The sixteen-piece, exquisitely executed tea service is a nod to tradition ensconced in enduring elegance. In other words, it is classic Hermés.

H Déco Cups and Saucers Coffee, tea, and breakfast are smartly served with patterns that are both individual and cohesive.

选用绘有单独图案和组合图案的杯盘，巧妙装盛咖啡、茶和早餐。 Coffee Cup and Saucer, HKD1,110 Tea Cup and Saucer, HKD1,220 Breakfast Cup and Saucer, HKD1,600 www.hermes.com

Hermés 家喻户晓的商标，以独一无二的马车与时髦马夫轮廓，诉说品牌近两百年来无与伦比的精湛工艺。这个标志体现了现代美学的形成历程，象征隽

H Déco Plates and Platters Interlocking H’s at the center of plates and platters confirm that these objects have been conceived and executed by Hermés alone. 位于盘面中央的双扣H标志，代表这些作品均为Hermés独家设计制作。 Dessert Plate, HKD620 Tart Platter, HKD3,660 Large Round Platter, HKD10,010 www.hermes.com

永不朽的品味。 Hermés 揉和过去与未来，为您献上一份完美无暇的大礼。

Hermés 推出最新茶具系列 H Déco，相扣的 H 标志设计，灵感源自 Hermés 位于巴黎圣多黑诺街

24 号总部的锻铁横饰带。交错缠绕的黑色线条映衬洁白无瑕的利摩日 (Limoges) 瓷器，图案呈现相连回圈、鱼鳞细丝工艺以及经典希腊回纹等多种引人入胜的主题。这套 16 件精美茶具是向历久弥新的优雅传统致敬，它代表的就是经典 Hermés。 french heavyweights

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inspired living

蜂采万千

bee beauty IN ITS FALL/WINTER PRO VENCE COLLECTION,

法国传奇水晶品牌 Lalique 自法国东南

storied French crystal maker Lalique has taken inspiration from the countryside of France’s sunny southeastern province. The collection glows from within with motifs of abundance and life: waving wheat, spikes of lavender, golden honeycombs, and bees. The apiarian theme is a return to tradition; the firm’s famed founder, René Lalique, often used bees – symbols of order, virtue, and immortality – on Art Nouveau accessories like boxes, brooches, and hat pins. Lalique crystal is still crafted by hand, using his meticulous methods of pressé and soufflé tourné , at the workshop he started in Alsace in 1921. Some pieces in the Provence Collection are fashioned from a luscious gold-luster crystal, the color of dripping honey, and the magnificent limited edition large Rayons vases, finished in pure gold leaf, are produced in partnership with renowned Les Ateliers Gohards of Paris. Both the Rayons vases and bowls evoke the faceted architecture of a honeycomb, each crystal cell refracting the light in gleaming tribute to one of Provence’s most fascinating creatures.

省份阳光明媚的乡间撷取灵感，于今年秋冬推出 Provence 系列，藉由象征富足和活力的设计元素，将随风摇曳的小麦、薰衣草花穗、金黄色蜂窝以及蜜蜂，全部摄入水晶之中，散发自然迷人光彩。以蜜蜂为主题乃是回归品牌传统；名闻遐迩的 Lalique 创办人 René Lalique 经常将蜜蜂这一象征秩序、美德和永恒的设计元素，用于新艺术风格的盒子、胸针和帽子别针等配件。

René Lalique 于 1921 年在阿尔萨斯 (Alsace) 成立作坊，他精心研发的压制 (pressé) 和口吹转动 (soufflé tourné) 工法，至今仍为 Lalique 沿用于手工打造水晶作品。Provence 系列部分作品是以迷人的金色光泽水晶制成，色泽有如新鲜欲滴的蜂蜜，而华丽的限量版 Rayons 大号花瓶以纯金金箔装饰而成，是与巴黎著名的 Ateliers Gohard 工作室合作打造的作品。 Rayons 花瓶和钵碗呼应蜂窝的表面结构，每个水晶蜂窝熠熠闪亮，礼赞 Provence 最迷人的设计之一。

Abeilles (“Bees”) is a graceful decanter with a trio of glittering insects poised around its stopper to guard the nectar within. The gold is applied by hand and the contrasting crystal and satin finishes are a Lalique trademark. Abeilles (「蜜蜂」) 酒瓶造型优美，瓶塞周围的蜜蜂闪闪发光，描摹守护瓶中花蜜的情景。黄金是以手工描于蜜蜂上，清水晶和缎面水晶的独特组合是 Lalique的经典标记。 HKD21,300, Lalique Lifestyle Crystal Lounge, +852 2259 6641

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FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

inspired living

天价干邑

liquid assets For those who have everything, a coveted elixir that few will ever imbibe.

AT U S D 3.5 M I L L I O N, the Henri IV Dudognon Héritage, Cognac Grande Champagne is heralded as the most expensive cognac in the world, a luxury born from hundreds of years of unwavering dedication and meticulous attention by the Dudognon family. Since 1776, the Dudognons have grown grapes in Lignieres-Sonneville, a small village near the town of Cognac in the center of the famed Cognac Grande Champagne region. The soil from which these grapes spring contains a sizable amount of Campanian chalk, resulting in a Cognac that mirrors a crystal-pure brandy, yet offers the fruity hints and heady pleasure beloved by discerning Cognac connoisseurs. Transforming prized grapes into a luxurious libation requires centuries-old expertise. Heiress Claudine DudognonBuraud, whose ancestors were direct descendants of the beloved French King, was bequeathed the family Cognac wisdom by her father, Raymond Dudognon, who was also renowned for his exceptional Cognacs. Claudine assumed the company reins when he passed in 2002. Today, she and her husband Gerald Buraud work to retain the family’s lofty status within the Cognac world. A Cognac so prized calls for a bottle of equal stature. The Henri IV Dudognon Héritage, Cognac Grande Champagne is embellished with a handcrafted crystal bottle first dipped in 24k gold, sterling silver and platinum, then encrusted with 6,500 brilliant cut diamonds, creating a piece worthy of Versailles. The opulent packaging was designed by Fernando Altamirano and helped the elixir earn the Guinness World Record for “The Most Expensive Bottle in the World.” For those craving rare pleasures, a bottle of this opulence is matched only by the Cognac within.

亨利四世 Dudognon Héritage 大香槟干邑白兰地 (Henri IV Dudognon Héritage, Cognac Grande Champagne) 为全球名贵干邑之首，天价三百五十万美金一瓶，为

Dudognon 酒庄倾全力打造，蕴含数百年酿酒秘法的登峰造极之作。

Dudognon 家族 1776 年于干邑大香槟区中心「干邑城」邻近的小村落 Lignieres-

Sonneville 发迹，种植葡萄所在地的土壤富含白垩土，酿制而成的干邑白兰地色泽纯净、晶莹剔透，又不失果味香韵及醉人甘醇，为干邑品酒名家的最爱。品质无可挑剔的葡萄要如何化为顶级豪华美酒？答案就是百年传承的工法。 Dudognon 家族为倍受爱戴的法国国王直系后裔，目前当家女传人 Claudine Dudognon-Buraud 继承父亲－干邑酿造名家 Raymond Dudognon 一身绝活，自父亲 2002 年去世后接班至今，和丈夫 Gerald Buraud 同心协力，维持 Dudognon 于干邑界至高无上的地位不坠。要搭配如此琼浆玉液，酒瓶也得是鬼斧神工之作才行。亨利四世 Dudognon

Héritage 大香槟干邑白兰地手工水晶瓶身由设计师 Fernando Altamirano 精心打造，先镀上 24K 金、纯银及白金，后镶上 6,500 颗切工完美的钻石，宛若珍藏于凡尔赛宫的稀世珍宝，并挤身金氏世界纪录「全球最昂贵烈酒」之列。对于追求极致享受的品味人士而言，能与此奢华酒瓶并驾齐驱的，非顶级干邑白兰地莫属。

french heavyweights

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欢庆时刻最佳伴侣

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Bulle D’argent Champagne Bucket

Christofle Anémone Belle Époque Champagne Cooler

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The blossoms gracing Christofle’s Anémone cooler are inspired by Emile Gallé’s famous 1902 Champagne label. Meaning “daughter of the wind,” Anémone is an apt moniker for an accessory designed to gently chill wine to the ideal six degrees.

此款蕴含美学品味的冰桶，Bulle D’argent「银色泡泡」充满现代感的线条设计，是 Christofle 重现香槟气泡的巧思，透过闪闪发光的球体造型完美呈现。 HKD15,720,

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+852 2869 7311

CHRISTOFLE, Shop 117, Prince’s Building, Central, Hong Kong

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

inspired living

Kawali Champagne Flutes When Champagne reaches the lips, it should do so by a medium as elegant as Christofle’s Kawali flutes. Mouth blown and hand cut, the flutes’ vibrant hues highlight crystal windows that peek onto rising bubbles. 优雅非凡的Christofle Kawali水晶香槟杯引领香槟与嘴唇的亲密接触。这款精致酒杯由人工吹制、手工打造，充满活力的色调令杯身更为晶莹透亮，奔腾向上的香槟气泡一览无遗。 HKD2,840, +852 2869 7311 CHRISTOFLE, Shop 117, Prince’s Building, Central, Hong Kong

french heavyweights

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名媛午餐实录

ladies that lunch Le Bon Genre, a satirical pictorial first published in 1817, offers a jaunty peek into the actual or imaginary lifestyles of the French middle class of the time.

Too Much Choice, plate 44 from ‘Le Bon Genre’, 1827 (colored engraving)

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BIBLIOTHEQUE DES ARTS DECORATIFS, PARIS, FRANCE / ARCHIVES CHARMET / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

TOO MUCH CHOICE, PLATE 44 FROM ‘LE BON GENRE’, 1827 (COLOURED ENGRAVING), FRENCH SCHOOL , (19TH CENTURY ) /

food and art

THESE COLORED ENGRAVINGS , numbers 4 and 44 in a series

在这 115 张系列彩色版画中，第 4 号和第

of 115 Plates, showcase a gathering of stylishly dressed

44 号版画描绘的是一群穿着时髦的女性挑

women selecting and enjoying ice cream in a cone. The first

选和享用甜品的景象，明眼人一看就知道，

image is aptly named Les Glaces, or The Ice Cream , and marks

这群女性品尝的是甜筒冰淇淋。的确，第

the historic introduction of the dessert into French cuisine. Not

4 号版画的标题正是 Les Glaces（冰淇淋）。

surprisingly, the citizenry began consuming it with relish.

冰淇淋是当时刚传入法国的美食，而且很

By the 19th century, flavors such as apricot, violet, rose,

快就在法国蔚为风潮。至 19 世纪，冰淇淋

chocolate, and caramel were as numerous as the parlors, res-

已经出现杏仁、紫罗兰、玫瑰、巧克力和

taurants, and cafés (themselves a recent invention) in which

焦糖等众多口味，数量与当时才刚问世的

fashionable, affluent Parisians gathered to enjoy the frozen

专卖店、餐厅和咖啡馆等量齐观。时髦富

confection. Recent advances in refrigeration had made it pos-

裕的巴黎人喜欢闲聚在这些地方享用冰淇

sible for the proliferation of such a refreshing dessert. While

淋，这是冷藏技术发明之前根本无法产生

it did become quite popular in France, historians

的甜品。历史学家认为，冰淇淋

agree that ice cream was not a French invention,

并非法国人所发明，但他们却是

although the French played a significant role in

将这项技艺发扬光大的功臣。我

advancing the art. The ice creams and sorbets of

KATE NICHOLSON

们现在所吃的冰淇淋和冰糕据传

today are thought to have been created in Italy during the 17th century. (Iced drinks and desserts

是意大利人在 17 世纪所发明（冰镇饮料和甜点的历史悠久，最早

have a far longer history that stretches as far back as ancient

可追溯至中国远古时期）。而冰淇淋就是从

China.) From Italy, ice cream meandered northwest to France,

意大利开始，一路传到法国，接着席卷整

then spread across the rest of Europe. During the 19th century,

个欧洲，19 世纪更飘洋过海，征服了美国

the luscious dessert crossed the Atlantic to conquer American

人的味蕾。

taste buds. The second image, L’ Embarras du Choix, or Too Much

第 44 号版画题为 L’ Embarras du Choix（太多选择），可能是画家或编辑痛

Choice , may be a commentary by the artist on the excesses

陈当时中产阶级和上流阶层浪费无度之作，

of the middle and upper classes of the time. At the very least,

却也忠实呈现了饮食习惯的转变；在 18 世

it highlights a shift in dining habits. Until the late 18th century,

纪末期以前，用餐往往仅限于在家或在小

french heavyweights

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酒馆和客栈，而且食物简单，选择贫乏，

serving a dull selection of simple fare alongside a stable of

往往固定搭配一杯酒精饮料。「餐厅」一

alcoholic drinks. The word restaurant (which once referred to

词原指专为贫困顾客供应外带或内用饮食

a variety of restorative soups sold in dedicated stores as take-

的商店，所贩卖的各种营养汤品，后来才

away items or eat-in fare for poorer patrons) slowly evolved to

慢慢演变为今日大家所熟知的，提供精心

mean a place for gathering socially over a carefully prepared

烹调餐点并让顾客透过菜单点用的社交聚

meal that was ordered from a menu, as we know it today.

会场所。

The catalyst for the launch of the restaurant trade is

促使餐饮业发展至今日型态的因素

attributed to factors as diverse as the French Revolution

非常复杂，例如法国大革命造成贵族阶

(which forced chefs to seek work elsewhere when aristo-

级解体，迫使他们的家庭厨师向外谋求生

cratic households disbanded) or the arrival in France of Italian

路，又如远从意大利来到法国，后来成为

noblewoman, and later the famous French royal, Catherine

法国皇族的 Catherine de Medici。虽然现

de Medici. While the origins of the modern restaurant may

代餐厅的起源扑朔迷离，但发源地在法国

be shrouded in mystery, the birthplace is clear: France, more

却是非常明确的事实，更具体地说，是在

specifically, Paris, though there is no consensus on the ques-

巴黎。虽然如此，巴黎第一家餐厅的创办

tion of who founded the first Parisian restaurant. Three men

人是谁，至今仍然众说纷纭，一般猜测的

who worked in Paris in the late 1700s are each widely credited

是 18 世纪末期曾在巴黎工作的三个人，他

for the achievment: a seller of restorative bouillon named

们分别是贩售营养肉汤的商人 Boulanger

Boulanger in 1765; a wealthy merchant’s son named Mathurin

（1765 年创办餐厅）；富商之子 Mathurin

Roze de Chantoiseau in 1766; and Antoine Beauvilliers, who

Roze de Chantoiseau（1766 年创办餐厅）；

founded La Grande Taverne de Londres in 1782.

以及在 1782 年创办 La Grande Taverne de

During that period, women living in France, as well as

Londres 的 Antoine Beauvilliers。

other parts of Europe, were banned from dining in cafés and

在那个时代，法国和欧洲许多国家都

taverns. Restaurants were one of the few havens where

禁止妇女进入咖啡厅和小酒馆，餐厅是少

both sexes could socialize publicly without inciting gossip or

数几个男女能够公开交际而不会产生八卦

scandal. One such location was Frascati, a café, restaurant,

或丑闻的地方之一。 Frascati 也是这样的

and gaming house that opened in Paris in 1789, and which,

一个地方，这是 1789 年于巴黎开张的一间

incidentally, is noted as selling “ices” – ice cream and sorbets

咖啡馆、餐厅兼赌馆，那里卖的「冰」，亦

– during the 1790s. By the early 19th century, when Le Bon

即冰淇淋和冰糕，在 1790 年代非常有名。

Genre was published, dining out was an entrenched cul-

Le Bon Genre 于 19 世纪初出版，当时外

tural institution indulged in by both men and women. As the

出用餐已经成为根深蒂固的文化风气，男

engravings of Le Bon Genre demonstrate, ladies have been

女皆是如此。从 Le Bon Genre 看来，女性

doing lunch for centuries.

午餐聚会的习惯已有数百年历史。

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THE ICE CREAM, PLAT 4 FROM ‘LE BON GENRE’, PARIS, 1827 (COLOURED ENGRAVING), FRENCH SCHOOL , (19TH CENTURY )

meals were limited to either the home or taverns and inns

/ BIBLIOTHEQUE DES ARTS DECORATIFS, PARIS, FRANCE / ARCHIVES CHARMET / BRIDGEMAN IMAGES

food and art

The Ice Cream, plate 4

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tasting notes

厨艺本色

the essence of akrame Achieving success with authentic French cuisine in Hong Kong can be an elusive quest. One proven approach is to first gain acclaim in France, then import one’s achievement: easier said than done, but Akrame Benallal has executed this strategy with aplomb. A Michelin two-star chef based in Paris, he honed his craft under Ferran Adrià and Pierre Gagnaire, then opened shop near the Arc de Triomphe. It wasn’t long before he won over critics with his dazzling inventiveness, and the restaurant now has a three-month waiting list. Restaurant Akrame Hong Kong, located on Ship Street, Wanchai, seeks to duplicate the triumph of Paris in a cozy thirty-seat nook that is at once chic and engagingly personal. 在香港，想靠道地法国美食闯出一片天着实不易，因此先在法国赢得掌声，再趁势出征，保准不会错。说比做容易，但 Akrame Benallal 却驾轻就熟，贯彻了这项策略。身为巴黎的米其林二星主厨，他曾在世界级名厨 Ferran Adrià 和 Pierre Gagnaire 指导下磨练厨艺，后来在凯旋门附近自行开业。没多久，他凭着多元的创意巧思，获得美食界好评不断，餐厅订位足足排到三个月之后。香港「Restaurant Akrame」位于湾仔船街，力图复制巴黎的成功模式，这个只有 30 个座位的餐厅，氛围自在舒适，既具时尚品味又可让顾客独享个人空间。

Rock Lobster with Hot Consommé and Celery 半熟龙虾配暖清汤及西芹

这道菜虽名为「惊艳」，但其实是菜单上最传统的佳肴。这难得一见的新鲜大龙虾经过精心蒸煮，或许所谓「惊艳」就是指饕客喝了炖汤的反应，法式清炖芹菜汤的美味，堪称喧宾夺主。

DAVID HARTUNG

This dish is dubbed Surprise, despite being one of the more traditional dishes on the menu. The morsel of rock lobster is perfectly fresh and impeccably steamed – a real rarity – but perhaps “surprise” refers to the reaction from diners when the accompanying celery consommé steals the show.

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

Crab Spiced with Pepper Topped by Coffee and Beer Granita 蟹肉配辣根及黑啤雪葩

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主厨 Akrame Benallal 呈现亚洲螃蟹的原汁原味，免去过度的调味与装饰。温和的红咖喱是绝佳搭配，当啤酒冰沙浇淋而下，带来强烈刺激的视觉效应，让料理生意盎然且乐趣十足，正是 Akrame 广为人知的神来一笔。

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

Chef Akrame manages to retain the authenticity of this crab’s local origins by avoiding excessive saucing or garnishing. A light red curry is the perfect accompaniment to the crab’s succulent flesh and sprightly flavors, while the poured-over beer granita renders everything tangy, bubbly, and fun – exactly the light touch that Akrame has become known for.

tasting notes

Fillet of Lean Fish with Quinoa 时令鲜鱼配藜麦

Australian Barramundi on a French menu initially seems an oddity, but under Akrame’s care the flaky white mildness of the Barramundi flesh serves as a perfect foil for the pungent complexity of its bed of parmesan-and-lemon foam. The substantial portion of fish is a satisfying change from the precise delicacy of the first two courses.

法式菜单上出现澳洲金目鲈看似格格不入，但在主厨 Akrame 的细心烹调下，这块白鲈肉的野性风味，配合帕马森和柠檬打成的浓烈泡沫确是相得益彰；而相较于前两道精致菜肴，这道份量更具饱足感，让人吃得心满意足。 french heavyweights

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EDMON LEONG

interview

地狱厨神

loaves and fishes International superstar and super-fit chef, Gordon Ramsay, met with Mark Hammons for an exclusive interview on the opening of his latest venture.

THE MICHELIN-STARRED, empire-building, television-dominating and scathingly articulate Gordon Ramsay has been recently hitting the gym as hard as the kitchen, and he is pleased with the results. “I swear to God I have never seen a six pack like it!” says Gordon Ramsay about his own fortyseven-year-old midriff. “I stand there like this obsessed twat in the morning thinking, ‘F*****g hell I am so ripped.’ I shouldn’t talk like that, but it’s just that I didn’t have a stomach like this at thirty-seven.” He didn’t own a restaurant in Hong Kong back then either, but he does now. In partnership with dynamic Hong Kong restaurant group Dining Concepts, his new venture is called Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, and it’s situated in the heart of the Lan Kwai Fong district. The brand was born three years ago with the opening of the original restaurant on London’s Bread Street, near historic St.Paul’s Cathedral. The Hong Kong iteration graces 33 Wyndham Street and, like its ripped proprietor, is looking fit and ready to conquer the world. To date, the Gordon Ramsay Group operates twenty-five restaurants around the world, claiming an impressive seven Michelin stars. The flagship venue, Restaurant Gordon Ramsay in Chelsea, London, has boasted three Michelin stars for more than twelve years. Recently, the group expanded its portfolio to include more casual eateries like Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, which is the first of the group’s forays into

拥有横跨全球的餐饮帝国，以毒舌形象走红电视的米其林星级厨师 Gordon Ramsay，最近上健身房的频率跟走厨房一样频繁，他很满意这些日子辛苦锻炼的成果。「我对天发誓，我从没见过这么漂亮的六块肌！」Gordon Ramsay 得意谈及自己 47 岁的腹部。「我早上像个花痴站在那里，心里想着，『我的身材真是魔鬼。』抱歉，我不该这么说话，可恨我 37 岁时没有这么厉害的腹肌。」那时他在香港也没有餐厅，但现在有了。他与香港知名餐饮集团 Dining Concepts 合作开设新餐厅，名为 Bread Street Kitchen & Bar，坐落于兰桂坊心脏地带。该品牌源自三年前在伦敦 Bread Street Kitchen 开业的总店，总店毗邻历史悠久的圣保罗大教堂，香港姊妹店则进驻云咸街 33 号，看起来就像它身材健美的老板一样，时髦迷人，准备征服全世界。迄今为止，Gordon Ramsay 集团在世界各地共有 25 家餐厅，而且拥有惊人的 7 颗米其林星星。位于伦敦切尔西的旗舰餐厅，Gordon Ramsay 享有米其林三星荣誉超过十二年。近几年来，该集团积极扩展餐饮版图，纳入更多像 Bread Street Kitchen & Bar 这样的休闲餐厅，而此品牌也是他们进军亚洲的先头部队。眼光已经望向新加坡和澳门的 Ramsay 说道：「对于亚洲，我们已经有些精彩的规划。」 Ramsay 很满意新餐厅地点：「兰桂坊这个地点让我们的餐厅可以比较亲民些，要是开设在造价数十亿美元、可望不可及的酒店里，用餐空间又装潢得富丽堂皇，就连我妈都不会想靠近。我喜欢这栋建物仓库式的轻松氛围和老旧时尚的设计风格，

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

Asia. “We have some exciting things planned for Asia,” says Ramsay, who has both Singapore and Macau in his sights. Ramsay is very pleased with the location of his new venture: “Our position in LKF lends itself to being more humble, as opposed to if it were set on the water in a billion dollar hotel with a grand dining room my mother wouldn’t even go near. I like the relaxed atmosphere and shabby chic of this warehouse style building – the décor is understated so we can really over-deliver on the food.” The ingredients found in the kitchen are a mélange of local and specially imported British artisanal produce. “The key thing about Bread Street is great ingredients,” says Ramsay. “There are some fantastic ingredients and flavors available to us here in Hong Kong, including a great wet market and spice market. When combined with support from

Britain, we can create some great dishes.” Ramsay understands that his menu needs to fit comfortably into its Asian context, and his global experiences have helped him develop a good model for launching a successful brand overseas. “Six months ago, we brought key players over to London to work in the restaurant there. Some of them could barely speak a word of English. Bread Street Kitchen is modeled around Cool Britannia, but we need to embed that concept into the culture of the country where the restaurant is going to be – so we think about the menu carefully.” Asian flavors, the perfect combination of acidity, salt, and sweetness, are combined with traditional cooking methods like slow roasting and braising, then incorporated into the local menu to lend some geographical relevance. Ramsay is particularly taken with the distinctive lightness of Asian dishes

“ I always say to my guys ‘You find your strongest moments at your weakest times.’”

正因装潢低调，我们才能提供真正超乎客人期待的食物」。厨房里堆放的食材混杂着当地出产和专门从英国进口的乡村农产品。 Ramsay 表示：「Bread Street 的核心价值就是好食材，香港本地有很多绝佳的食材和调味料可供我们选用，包括很棒的传统市场和香料市场，加上来自英国的支援，我们可以创作出几道出色的菜式。」Ramsay 了解，他的菜单需要融入亚洲特色，而他的全球经验可以帮助他建立一个适当模式，将品牌成功推向海外。「半年前，我们把一批主要人员送到伦敦总

TK | french heavyweights

店工作，其中有些甚至连英文都不太会讲。 Bread Street Kitchen 是以「酷不列颠」(Cool Britannia) 的概念打造而成，但我们需要将这个概念融入餐厅所在国家的文化之中，因此我们再三斟酌菜单内容。」我们从完美结合酸、咸、甜三种滋味的亚洲风味着手，采用慢炙和焖煮等传统烹调方式，最后整合出现在这份带有地域特色的本地菜单里。 Ramsay 特别着迷于亚洲菜独特的明亮色彩，因此在菜单中反映这种新鲜感。「这份菜单没有使用奶油和黄油，也没有那种不苟言笑的欧洲气质。相反地，这份

and tailors his menu to reflect this freshness. “The menu is not laced with cream and butter. It doesn’t have that sedating European quality. Instead it’s vibrant, spicy, punchy, and packs attitude. We’ve incorporated some of the local flavor into it.” In support, he cites a dish featuring chicken wings with tamarind and another offering, honey-glazed beef short ribs with pomelo, scallions, and sesame. To the Head Chef position at Bread Street Kitchen & Bar, Ramsay appointed Gilles Bosquet, a trusted protégé who has worked for the Gordon Ramsay Group in London and the Middle East. Ramsay explains the importance of bequeathing knowledge and allowing his staff to own real responsibility and control. “I like to transfer my knowledge. I’m often asked: ‘Who does the cooking when you are not there?’ The answer is: ‘The same people who do the cooking when I am there.’ I like to pass on my finesse and I have a great eye for talent. My team is the Manchester United of chefs – we have thoroughbreds, real talent. I wouldn’t claim any of their

菜单辛辣、刺激、充满活力，带有自己的风格。我们也融合一些本地风味在里面。」为了证明，他举例有道鸡翅佐的是罗望子，而另一道蜜汁牛小排则是搭配柚子、青葱和芝麻。 Bread Street Kitchen & Bar 的主厨位置， Ramsay 指定由 Gilles Bosquet 担任，他是 Ramsay 信赖的徒弟，曾在 Gordon Ramsay 集团旗下的伦敦和中东餐厅工作。 Ramsay 重视知识传承并让员工担起真正的责任、掌握实际的支配权，他解释道：「我喜欢传授我的知识。经常有人问我：『你不在的时候，谁来掌厨？』答案是：『我在的时候负责掌厨的那些人。』我喜欢传授我的技巧，而且可以说很会招揽人才。我的团队是厨师界的曼彻斯特联队，包括有拔尖的良驹，真正的人才。他们的成功不是我的功劳，而是大家一起努力赢得的。他们从我身上学到的经验，无论是经营或者承担负责，都会改变他们的思维模式。」

interview

successes, rather it’s what we have been through together. It’s the experience they get from me, of running things, of being given responsibility, and this transforms their way of thinking.” Gordon Ramsay has wisely diversified his brand throughout his career. His name is recognized as author, restaurateur, and TV personality, as well as Michelin-starred chef. He believes that this diversification has benefited him tremendously, and that an increasing number of chefs will soon move in this direction. “The pressure on chefs now is much greater than it was before. Today, we are not simply seen as chefs. You must establish a brand. That’s the latest trend in London: chef-driven brands. Yet the bigger your reputation gets, the greater the pressure on you.” Ramsay emphasizes the importance of maintaining a level head through the cycles of fortune: “I have to pinch myself sometimes to see where I am, but then I know how much work has gone into my success. It’s not luck – you don’t get lucky in this industry, you make your own luck. I

Gordon Ramsay 的事业相当多元化，他是作家、餐厅老板、电视名人，也是米其林星级厨师。他认为这种多角化的经营方式让他受益甚巨，不久之后会有越来越多厨师朝这个方向发展。「厨师如今所承受的压力远远大于从前。现在，我们不是当个厨师就好，而是必须树立自己的品牌。伦敦的最新趋势就是：厨师主导的品牌。不过，名声越大，你承受压力也会越大。」财富时起时落，Ramsay 强调在这起伏过程中维持冷静头脑的重要性：「我偶尔得捏捏自己，看清自己身处何处。我们这行没有运气可言，运气是要自己创造的。而且我认为，从逆境重新站起的经验，像我在 2008 年经历的财务困难，教导我们持续不断努力。我们就是这样开始发想 Bread Street Kitchen 的，就在金融海啸末期。我总是告诉我的手下：「在你最脆弱的时候，总会发现自己最强大的一面。」

also think that coming back from adversity, having had financial issues in 2008, taught us to keep working. That’s how we conceived of Bread Street Kitchen, on the tail end of the recession. I always say to my guys: ‘You find your strongest moments at your weakest times.’” Ramsay muses about the moment when he decided to step out of the kitchen and away from the intense pressure chefs face in their exhilarating, but very demanding, jobs. “The kitchen is a highly pressurized environment that affects the body, heart, mind, and brain. I’d be dead if I were still in the kitchen now. It’s so high-octane – that’s not a fight I want for the rest of my life. You’ve got to get out of the mind-set of thinking chefs have to be in the kitchen. I’ve done the hard work and am now working smarter. That is a decision I would recommend to every chef in my position. You need a life outside of the

restaurant, and there is satisfaction in passing on your technique.” Ramsay still pushes himself to the limit, in business and also on the sporting field – and he has scuplted the abs to prove it. He prefers the drawn-out demands of triathlons and ultra-marathons, discovering a satisfying symbiosis between cooking and sport. “Running and triathlons are my way of clawing back some time for myself. I play everything back in my head while I am running, swimming, or on my bike. It gives me the chance to dissect, move on, conquer, and create.” Through a strange synergy he once harnessed his culinary knowledge to help him achieve his fitness goals: “I was swimming in a long-distance open water race and I saw a striped bass – a dorade – in the clear blue sea,” he said. “I thought about how I would cook it, and that helped me to get through the pain barrier. It was a chef ’s dream!”

我总是告诉我的手下：「在你最脆弱的时候，总会发现自己最强大的一面。」

Ramsay 若有所思地说起自己决定走出厨房，远离厨师风光表面底下庞大工作压力的时刻。「厨房是个高压环境，严重影响身心灵和头脑。如果我现在还待在厨房，必死无疑。它的工作步调太紧张了，我不希望下半辈子都在打仗中度过。因此必须脱离厨师在厨房里的那种思考心态。过去我工作得非常辛苦，现在我要更聪明地工作。我建议每个到我这种地位的厨师，都尝试同样的决定。你需要餐厅以外的生活，传授技术是很有成就感的。」尽管这样，Ramsay 仍然致力追求极限，事业如此，运动亦复如此－他那雕塑完美的

腹肌已经证明了这点。他喜欢铁人三项和超级马拉松的高度耐力要求，而且他发现烹饪和运动之间有种令人满足的共生关系。「跑步和铁人三项是我为自己抢回时间的方式。我在跑步、游泳或骑车的时候，会一边回忆过去的种种，这让我有机会去剖析、前进、征服和创造。」他曾经利用烹饪知识帮助自己达成健身目标，这是一种奇特的协同效应：「有次我参加海上长距泳赛，游着游着就看到一条带着条纹的鲈鱼出现在清澈蔚蓝的大海里，原来是鲷鱼，」他说道。「我不断想着要怎么煮它，这帮我撑过最痛苦的时刻。只有厨师才会这样异想天开！」 french heavyweights

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星耀盛宴

Roc Stars Eight celebrated chefs and three awardwinning sommeliers assemble from far and wide to create a stellar centenary gala. BY LUCY MORGAN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

I T ’ S A N E A R LY S E P T E M B E R D A Y at the

legendary Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in Antibes on the fabled French Riviera. In a scene from a painting by Dufy, the sun casts pale golden stripes along the crests of gentle waves as guests enjoy a leisurely lunch on the deck of the Eden-Roc Grill and gaze out on glimmering yachts gliding across a sapphire sea. Unseen within the hotel’s kitchen, a renowned culinary team from France, Germany, and Morocco works feverishly to prepare an elaborate and extraordinary feast that will mark the hundredth anniversary of the famous Eden-Roc Pavilion, a dramatic seaside retreat with a magnificent saltwater pool hollowed out of the basalt cliffs. Eight chefs, all from hotels in the Oetker Collection, have designed a very special menu for the gala dinner to be held at the glamorous EdenRoc Restaurant. Three who’ve earned the title World’s Best Sommelier – Serge Dubs, Markus Del Monego, and Andreas Larsson – have chosen exceptional wines and spirits to toast this special occasion. TK meets the team as they prepare for the affair of a lifetime.

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传奇酒店 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc 座落于风景如织的法国蔚蓝海岸小鎮昂蒂布 (Antibes)，法国画家 Dufy 用画笔记录下在此的悠闲景致，金色阳光洒落在海浪上，波光粼粼，宾客悠闲在 Eden-Roc Grill 烧烤吧露台上享用午餐，远眺帆船徜徉于蔚蓝海面，闪烁耀眼光芒。时序进入九月的某个寻常日，外人难以进入的厨房正忙的不可开交，由法国、德国及摩洛哥一流大厨组成的跨国美食团队正大展拳脚，准备令人难忘的别致餐点，为临海渡假圣地 Eden-Roc Pavilion 及挖自玄武岩崖壁的海水泳池欢度百年纪念。八位名震四方的大厨其实都是自家人，都在 Oetker Collection 旗下酒店工作，为了这次在 Eden-Roc 餐厅举行的晚宴，可说使出浑身解数，设计绝无仅有的獨特菜色。另外顶着全球最佳侍酒师桂冠的三位大师 Serge Dubs、 Markus Del Monego 及 Andreas Larsson 也在此聚首，为此特别场合挑选最顶级的佳酿及烈酒。 TK 团队也把握机会，深入访谈负责这次飨宴的梦幻团队。

TK | french heavyweights

ARNAUD POËTTE, Executive Chef at Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc, looks remarkably calm for a man who is coordinating a dinner for 150 VIPs and supervising a kitchen with top chefs from four other prestigious hotels. He has been working in the kitchens of Hotel du Cap for thirty-two years, and he loves the place. “I am part of the history here,” he says. “So I’m very honored to be a part of this important celebration.” Poëtte has been planning for weeks, coordinating with the visiting chefs and sommeliers to ensure the gala exceeds all expectations. “We’re presenting our guests with a menu of eight courses,” he explains. “Each of the eight chefs has designed one course. There will be five main courses and three desserts. Six of the chefs have traveled to be here – two from Paris and two from Vence, one from Baden-Baden in Germany, and one all the way from Marrakech, Morocco." Poëtte’s own Eden-Roc team will be supporting the visiting chefs as they create their masterpieces. “There’s a lot to think about and you mustn’t forget a thing. I have to make sure that the guest chefs are settled comfortably, that they have enough space to work in, and that all the materials are at hand. Fortunately, in my experience, it’s usually only the first hour of service that’s a little difficult and then everything runs smoothly.” Poëtte is looking forward not only to the challenge of preparing such a demanding menu, but also to the genuine camaraderie that he knows will prevail in the kitchen. “I really enjoy an event like this because it gives chefs from the Oetker Collection the chance to catch up – it’s a real pleasure. We’re like brothers, helping each other out, sharing ideas and enjoying the opportunity to work together. It’s actually fun in the kitchen – the esprit of our group is like family.” Over the next few pages, we’ll meet the star chefs as they present the dish they‘ve created especially for this unique occasion.

百年盛宴由 Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc 行政总厨 Arnaud Poëtte 当家作主，负责指挥来自其他四家顶级酒店的一流大厨，为 150 位超级贵宾备餐。事关重大，大厨们却完全不见一丝慌张神情，令人印象深刻。总厨入主 Hotel du Cap 厨房已经 32 年，对此地深深着迷。他形容自己：「已经是这里历史的一部分，能够参与百年庆典真的倍感荣耀。」 Poëtte 为了这个大日子已筹备数周，和远道而来的其他大厨及侍酒师互相分工，要打造一场超水准的晚宴。他进一步说明：「晚宴共有八道料理，五道主菜及三道甜点，分别出自八位厨师的手艺。其中六位厨师专为晚宴外请而来，包括巴黎及南法 Vence 各两位，以及自德国 Baden-Baden 及摩洛哥 Marrakech 远道而来的两位师傅。」Poëtte 麾下 Eden-Roc 团队则全力支援，让客座大厨无后顾之忧，一展绝艺。「一定要周全，各个细节都要打理好，最重要的是客座大厨能待的舒服、有足够发挥的空间，让所有需要的素材都即时到位。幸好就我的经验来说，一向是头过身就过，前面一小时撑过去之后，后面就都水到渠成了。」为此飨宴备餐的挑战让 Poëtte 倍感兴奋，但同时让他期待的还有厨房里激发的情谊及默契。他说：「Oetker Collection 的厨师们可借此机会共聚一堂、交换心得，真是人间一大乐事。我们就像兄弟一样，彼此帮忙、分享所知，珍惜一同工作的机会。在厨房真的『很好玩』，像个大家庭一样。」接下来要请明星主厨一一现身说法，介绍为此百年一遇的飨宴所精心设计的美味料理。 FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

First Course ARNAUD POËTTE

Executive Chef, Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc

I AM PREPARING the first dish of the evening. We need to dazzle the guests – astonish them – so our dishes must both look and taste amazing. To me, presentation is very important. You look at the plate and your brain records it. The visual image of the dish combines with the flavor to make a memory. And at an event like this, I want the guests to have an indelible memory of our menu. My inspirations and ideas are first of all dictated by the seasons. Then I like to search for good combinations of flavor. Today I am preparing a signature dish with cauliflower, lobster, and caviar. The combination of these three elements is delicately luxurious. The caviar I am using is French – Chef Eric Frechon of Le Bristol Paris introduced me to it. He told me this caviar was of exceptional quality and, when I tried it, I agreed. It’s incredibly fresh and not too salty. That’s how we work as a team in the Oetker Collection. We share knowledge, recipes, and suppliers. Family is important to me. Not just my own at home, but my work family, too. Our team spends so much time together. And my extended family – like the chefs who are here today – will meet up two or three times a year. It’s always as if no time has passed. I can tell this is going to be a really lovely occasion for us all.

第一道菜由我操刀，目的是想让宾客摸不着头绪，给他们惊喜，卖相及味道都要无懈可击才行。我认为摆盘是关键所在，上菜后的第一印象会留存脑海，餐点的视觉印象加上入口的味道才会形成记忆。尤其是如此重要的晚宴，我想让宾客对于精美菜色留下难以抹灭的印象。我的灵感、想法通通来自一年四个季节，然后才开始思索美味的最佳组合。今天要以白花椰菜、龙虾及鱼子酱做出拿手好菜，三大素材交织出奢豪感十足的顶级美味。我手上的鱼子酱要谢谢巴黎 Le Bristol 主厨 Eric Frechon 的推荐，他对鱼子酱简直是赞不绝口，表示品质无可挑剔，我尝过之后也深有同感，非常鲜美不过咸。这正是我们 Oetker Collection 的特色，互相分享所知、食谱及供应商，毫不藏私。家人对我而言无可取代，这不仅仅包括有血缘的家人，一起工作的好伙伴也是。大家处在一个团队里朝夕相处，加上今天在此的大厨们也都是我们的一分子，一年都会见两三次面。不管过了多久感觉都不变，这次盛会没有例外，也会是属于我们独有的欢乐时光。

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

Blue Lobster, Chilled Cauliflower Velouté with Caviar from Sologne 蓝龙虾、白花椰菜冷汤佐 Sologne 鱼子酱

Here we have chilled lobster consommé dotted with circles of cauliflower mousseline that’s made with a very light cream. I use blue lobster from coastal France because I think it is the most delicate and has the best flavor. A ring of lobster supports a mound of the freshest and most finely textured caviar from Sologne in France. Its light flavor matches the lobster without eclipsing it. Finally, the plate is decorated with tiny chervil leaves – a true celebration dish.

淡盐奶油制成的白花椰慕斯在龙虾冷汤上绕出优雅的线圈。蓝龙虾捕自法国沿岸海域，肉质细腻及美味程度无可比拟。龙虾肉围成圈，顶端放上一匙法国

Sologne 区产顶级鱼子酱，鲜美非常、质地无可挑剔，清爽味道与龙虾肉相辅相成，出菜前再放上点细叶芹叶点缀，

The dish is paired with the 2011 Maison Albert Bichot Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, chosen by Andreas Larsson. 搭配Andreas Larsson 精选 2011 年 Maison Albert Bichot CortonCharlemagne Grand Cru。

节庆特别料理当之无愧。

french heavyweights

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Grilled Île-de-France Leek, White Pearl Oyster Tartare, Spring Onion and Lemon 烤法兰西岛韭葱、白珍珠生蚝鞑靼、青葱及柠檬

This is quite a simple dish – butter, seaweed, leek, oysters. I like to cook vegetables whole. The outside of this Normandy leek looks blackened and charred, but that doesn’t matter because only the inside will be eaten. The leek is sliced lengthways and the oysters are placed inside in a sauce with the seaweed butter. You open the leek and eat just the center. The presentation is very simple. A burned onion powder makes it look as if the leek has shed a little soil from its roots.

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

这道菜由奶油、海藻、韭葱及生蚝组成，再简单不过。蔬菜我喜欢整株熬煮，诺曼地产韭葱外观看来有点发黑焦烧，不过没什么大碍，我们只吃韭葱内部。韭葱纵切，生蚝浸入海藻奶油调成的酱汁，将韭葱剥开外部享用韭心。摆盘也是简单至上的风格，上桌前洒点洋葱焦粉，让韭葱看似才刚出土，菜根上土块还未剥落，别有一番趣味。

This dish is paired with the 2011 Chateau Coutet Bordeaux “Opalie,” chosen by Serge Dubs. 搭配 Serge Dubs 精选 2011年 Chateau Coutet Bordeaux “Opalie”。

Second Course FRANCK LEROY

Sous-Chef, Le Bristol Paris

I AM PREPARING LEEK with oysters and seaweed butter. It’s a dish of the earth and of the sea. I really enjoy making “surf and turf” combinations. I love these flavors and I think they honor the long tradition of the Eden-Roc Pavilion perfectly, a beautiful building of the earth with its saltwater pool. Respecting our traditions is very important to me. I became Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2000. It’s a top culinary honor that entitles chefs to wear a jacket with a striped collar instead of a plain white one. Being judged, recognized, and honored by our peers is something very important to chefs. Of equal importance to me is passing on my knowledge to the future generation of chefs. I’ve been working at Le Bristol Paris for quite a long time, and I am really proud of the hotel. I’ve been with Chef Eric Frechon for fifteen years – I spend more time with him than my wife! I want to represent Le Bristol Paris really well tonight, so I’ll be looking at the plates as they come back to the kitchen to be sure they’re empty!

这道菜以韭葱搭配生蚝及海藻奶油做成，可说汇集陆地及海洋的精华制作而成。这类的海陆餐点准备起来真的很来劲，都是我所钟爱的味道，当然也和 Eden-Roc Pavillion 历史悠久的陆上建物及海水泳池体现的传统之美不谋而合。尊重传统是我一直力行不悖的信念， 2000 年我获得法国工艺奖 (MOF) 头衔，脱颖而出的厨师条纹立领厨师袍加身，象征烹饪界的最高荣誉。对厨师来说，没有比通过同侪审核、肯定并惠予荣耀更加光荣的事了，但对我而言，将知识手艺传承给下一代也同等重要。我长年在巴黎 Le Bristol 工作，为自家酒店深深感到自豪。我跟着主厨 Eric Frechon 已经 15 个年头了，比和我老婆相处的时间还长！今天的菜代表了 Le Bristol，我一定会紧盯着送回来的餐盘，确定都清盘了才会罢休！

french heavyweights

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Third Course FRANCK FERIGUTTI

Executive Chef, Château Saint-Martin & Spa, Vence

Locally Caught Sea Bass with Country Vegetables, Thickly Sliced Truffle 法国海鲈佐乡村时蔬及厚切松露

Here in the South we cook a lot of fish and a lot of vegetables. I’ve chosen a selection of the most beautiful seasonal vegetables grown by an organic supplier just ten kilometers from Saint-Martin where I work. I prepare them very simply – barigoule – which means stewed in a broth with artichokes. Slices of truffle add an earthy flavor. Together with the fresh local fish, the flavors truly reflect our landscape. 在南法，我们习惯把很多鱼加大量蔬菜一起熬煮。我特地从自家酒店十公里处的有机小农进了这个季节

COOKING IS LIKE FASHION – it changes every year. I think today’s cuisine focuses more on a single, pared down product. You need to choose a good product then present it as simply as possible. I have an excellent little fishmonger in Nice who provides me with some superior sea bass. It’s easy to tell the difference between an average sea bass and a really good one by testing the firmness of the flesh. The texture of this sea bass is perfect so the flavor will be delicious. Today there are many countries turning out good cuisine, so we in France have to stay at the top of our game. We need to maintain the authenticity of the products – the essence of French cuisine has always been a faithfulness to the ingredients and to the region. There’s a lot of work involved tonight, but it’s a fantastic challenge ensuring that 150 dishes go out, each with a beautiful quality. You need to constantly ask yourself questions to make sure everything is just right. Each time you prepare a plate, you should be thinking: “Is it OK? Can I send it out, or do I need to do it again?” I’ve brought three people from my team at Château Saint-Martin & Spa to cook with me today. The team from Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc is also assisting all the guest chefs. It’s really nice to see each other again, and it’s such a great opportunity to get to know each other better. You can’t cook on your own – you have to know your team, love your team, and love what you’re doing.

最漂亮的时蔬，料理方法也很简单，放进高汤加朝鲜蓟一起炖煮即可。松露切片则增添一丝朴实的大地味道，加上鲜美的地方渔获，吃得到在地的独特风味。

This dish is paired with the 2009 Schloss Johannisberg Rheingau, Riesling “Grosses Gewächs,” chosen by Markus del Monego. 搭配 Markus del Monego 精选 2009 年 Schloss Johannisberg Rheingau, Riesling “Grosses Gewächs”。

烹饪就像时尚，年年在变。今日餐饮界以单一、简单素材为主流，选出品质精良的农产，以极简方式烹调呈现。我在尼斯有个认识的鱼商，供应品质一流的鲈鱼，随手一摸，以鱼肉扎实程度判断，普通及顶级海鲈高下立见。今天的海鲈肉质绝佳，味道更是自不待言。各国大厨为了今晚卯足全力端出最棒的料理，法国当然也要全力以赴，不能丢脸。保留食材的原味，忠实呈现食材味道及地方特色，也一向是法国菜的精髓所在。今晚可说一刻都闲不得，150 盘鱼肉上桌道道都要有高水准表现，对厨师而言是场华丽的考验。要不断自我检视是否每个细节都尽善尽美，每一盘在手都要自问：「味道还好吗？」或「送出去没问题吗，还是要重作一遍？」，反覆确认。为了今日晚宴，我从圣马丁城堡温泉酒店 (Chateau Saint-Martin & Spa) 带了三位得力助手，当地团队也毫不藏私全力协助。见到大家真的很开心，彼此也藉由这个难得机会深入互相了解。煮菜不能单打独斗，要对自己的团队了若指掌、尊重敬爱团队成员，也以同样的态度对待自己所做的每件事。

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

Fourth Course ANTOINE PERRAY

Executive Chef, Palais Namaskar, Marrakech, Morocco

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

I WANTED TO PREPARE A DISH that embodies the flavor of Morocco, the locale of Palais Namaskar. I’ve adapted it slightly because the traditional recipe is very sweet. With so many courses, I decided to lighten the dish so guests will be able to enjoy the specific flavors of the country where I work. This dish is a combination of duck and pumpkin. Selecting the right ingredients for a recipe like this is critical, so I was very careful while choosing the ones we’d be using tonight. You have to understand them completely. For example, European and Moroccan pumpkins have the same flavor, but the European variety is drier and harder to cook. So we’re using a juicy Moroccan pumpkin in this recipe and flavoring the sweet flesh with cumin, cardamom, and cinnamon. I‘ve worked in Europe and Asia as well as Africa. Seeing so many different countries and peoples and learning about new culinary cultures is a great opportunity for a chef, and I really try to express this in my cooking. It’s an honor for Palais Namaskar to be present here, and it’s given me a wonderful chance to work with all the other chefs here today. I am really excited to be introducing Moroccan cuisine to the guests at this dinner.

我想藉由这道菜体现摩洛哥的当地美味，不过传统作法味道很甜，今晚上桌的是改良版本。考量晚宴有多道料理，我特地调淡口味，同时不失摩洛哥地道的独特风味。鸭肉及南瓜是这道菜的两大主角，正确的食材在料理烹制中至关重要，所以今晚要用的食材我可说是谨慎再谨慎。厨师要对食材有全面性的了解，像是欧洲及摩洛哥产南瓜味道虽然大同小异，但欧产南瓜质地较干也较难煮烂，所以我选用摩洛哥产的多汁南瓜，瓜肉用小茴香、小豆蔻及肉桂调味处理。我在欧洲、亚洲以及非洲都工作过，去过许多不同国家接触不同的人，时时掌握并学习新料理也正是身为厨师的机会之一，我也想透过这道菜表达这种求知若渴的精神。很荣幸万国宫（Palaris Namaskar) 有机会参与这次盛宴，得以在现场和一流厨师合作。想到能和晚宴宾客介绍摩洛哥菜肴，我就感到雀跃欣喜。

This dish is paired with 2009 Pessac-Léognan de Château Haut-Bailly, chosen by Serge Dubs. 搭配 Serge Dubs 精选 2009年 Pessac-Léognan de Château Haut-Bailly。

Pumpkin with Sweet Spices and Fillet of Smoked Duck Breast 南瓜佐甜香料及熏鸭胸

Because the menu is so extensive, the presentation of this dish is rather different from how I’d serve it at Palais Namaskar. I really wanted to make something petite and appealing. So I’ve placed a quenelle of pumpkin that’s been perfumed with spices in the middle of the plate next to an emulsion of smoked duck. Finally, a small piece of duck meat complements the flavor of the pumpkin and adds texture. The soft elements of the dish melt into one another. 考量到晚宴多元的菜色，这道菜和我在万国宫 (Palais Namaskar) 一般摆盘的方式大不相同，小巧又引人入胜。为此，盘中间放上香料调味的南瓜球，一旁傍着熏鸭肉。小块鸭肉和南瓜味道非常搭配，也增加口感。料理中的软嫩风味相互交融。

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Black Forest Venison, Walnut Crust,

Celery and Kale

黑森林鹿肉佐核桃酥、芹菜及羽衣甘蓝

The venison is cooked sous vide, then fried in a pan. A crust on the outside of the meat is made from crushed walnuts, another typical Black Forest ingredient. The sauce is flavored with juniper and goose foie gras. Savoy cabbage is stuffed with shredded cabbage cooked in butter, shallots, and cream and then seasoned with truffle. Under the cabbage are chopped porcini, and the cabbage parcel is tied up with ribbons of chive to keep the fluid center from escaping.

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Fifth Course PAUL STRADNER

Head Chef of Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa, Baden-Baden, Germany

It’s a great experience to be working at this dinner, and it’s always exciting to be so far from home – I’ve traveled about 800km to get here. I’m preparing a typical recipe from the Black Forest in the south of Germany. It features venison, which is found everywhere in the Black Forest and is very popular and traditional to the region. The venison season is long in Germany, and there’s a difference in flavor between early season and autumn venison because the deer alter their diet during that time. In the early part of the season, they forage for food and leaves in the forest. In autumn, they go out into the fields after the harvest has been brought in and feast on corn and grain, which give the meat a stronger flavor. Tonight the venison will be served with porcini. At the moment, the weather is perfect for them and they grow in profusion in the Black Forest. The meat is also accompanied by celeriac purée, rather than potato, to lighten the dish. Quite often game dishes are heavy. It was important for tonight’s menu that we make this dish a little lighter. This recipe offers a true taste of the forest and the earth and features authentic autumn flavors. I feel it’s the perfect dish to represent Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa at this amazing event. 这次晚宴是很难得的体验，偶尔离家工作也总让人兴奋不已。跑了将近 800 公里到南法，我准备的是德国南部黑森林地方菜肴，使用黑森林一大特产：鹿肉，这在当地是很有人气的传统菜色。在德国鹿肉产季很长，初期与秋季不同时节，味道也会随野鹿进食的食物改变而产生差异。产季初期鹿只以捡食森林内食物及树叶为主，而入秋后离开森林栖息地，因为秋收时节以玉米及谷类为主食的缘故，鹿肉味道更为浓郁。今晚鹿肉的配菜牛肝菌目前享用正当时，在黑森林可说俯拾即是。鹿肉同时佐以芹菜泥，而非薯泥，吃来更为清爽。野味常给人味道浓厚的印象，但今晚我们不想让宾客吃完觉得过腻。这道菜吃得到森林、大地及秋天最真实的原味，也是我们 Brenners Park-Hotel & Spa 于百年晚宴的自信之作。

鹿肉真空低温烹调后，放上平底锅油煎。鹿排酥脆表面为核桃碎屑，也是黑森林的传统食材，搭配的酱汁则以杜松及鹅肝熬制而成。甘蓝

This dish is paired with the 1989 Miguel Torres “Mas La Plana” Cabernet Sauvignon, chosen by Markus del Monego.

细片以奶油、青葱及鲜奶油煮过后，加上松露调味，最后再裹以甘蓝叶便大功告成，其下放着牛肝菌切片。甘蓝菜卷最后绑上细葱条，加以固定柔滑细嫩的菜卷。

搭配Markus del Monego 精选1989年Miguel Torres “Mas La Plana” Cabernet Sauvignon。

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

Sixth Course FLORENT MARGAILLAN

Pastry Chef, Château Saint-Martin & Spa, Vence

Fall-Fruiting Raspberries, Light Coconut Mousse, Coriander Cream, Raspberry Sorbet 当季覆盆子、淡椰子慕斯、胡荽酱及覆盆子冰糕

SINCE I’M GOING to be the first to present a dessert at the dinner, I immediately thought about using coriander to form a flavor link between the main courses and the dessert. The first dessert of three needs to be really fresh and light, not too rich, so the guests will still have an appetite for the other sweets to come. That’s why I chose to serve the raspberry sorbet to cleanse the palate, and the coconut mousse for its airy and delicious flavor. I enjoy being a patissier because I am a gourmand. I love eating, and I concoct every dessert as if I were going to indulge in it myself. As I create my desserts, I consider elements that would give me the greatest pleasure. If you simply cook for maximum pleasure, the customers are always happy. As patissiers, we know that our work will disappear after being savored for only a few moments. The pleasure for us derives from designing a delectable treat that may last for only thirty seconds. The satisfaction also lies in seeing the guests’ excitement, but if you don’t derive pleasure from making the dish, you won’t be able to share in their reaction. The presentation of a dish is so important. If there are lots of little pieces on a plate, it’s essential that each one serve a function and not be there simply for show. For me, it’s critical that guests understand at first glance what the cake or dessert consists of. I don’t like to use artificial colors, so working with coriander is great. It lends the cream a beautiful pale green hue like the color of natural raspberry leaves.

知道身为晚宴首道甜点的负责人时，当下浮现脑海的食材就是胡荽，用来衔接主菜到甜点再适合不过。三道甜点第一炮一定要清爽，味道不要太重，宾客才有胃口吃得下后续两道点心。所以我选用覆盆子冰糕来清新味蕾，同时带来口感轻盈美味的椰子慕斯。身为爱吃的人，能成为糕点师傅实在太幸福了。我嗜美食如命，每道甜点都像为了宠爱自己而特别设计。创作甜点时，我总想着该怎么做才让自己吃起来最开心。将创造极致幸福感为己任的话，客人也一定能浸濡在欢乐气氛当中。糕点师傅都知道，呕心沥血的杰作三两下就会消失不见，而为那稍纵即逝的 30 秒设计完美甜点，就是我们的快乐来源。看到客人脸上的惊喜也会带来十足的成就感，倘若师傅制作甜点过程没有乐在其中，一定也无法感同身受，感染到客人的热切回应。甜点首重摆盘技巧，盘上有各式小巧素材交织，要让他们各司其职，而非只当花瓶虚有其表。我想尽量让客人一眼就看得出甜点的使用素材，我不喜欢人工色素，所以用胡荽再自然不过，让奶油带点淡绿色调，犹如覆盆子树叶一般美丽。

Raspberries and coriander form a good marriage. The acidity of the raspberries helps to tame the strength of the coriander, creating a very fresh flavor. The sweetness in this dessert comes from a mousse of coconut that conceals a confit of raspberries. Alongside is a lone fresh raspberry filled with fragrant coriander cream. The mousse is rolled in dried coconut to add texture and give a visually pleasing effect. Under the mousse is a croustade made from coconut, with a sharp and fresh raspberry sorbet. 覆盆子和胡荽可说是天作之合，前者的酸味中和胡荽浓重的味道，营造出一股清新的香味，甜味则来自包住覆盆子的椰子慕斯。盘边放着缀以胡荽酱的单颗新鲜覆盆子，香气四溢。慕斯覆上椰子干粒，增添口感也让外表更加诱人。慕斯下放着椰子制饼皮，佐以味道鲜美略呛的覆盆子雪葩。

This dish is paired with a Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne by Laurent-Perrier, chosen by Andreas Larsson. 搭配Andreas Larsson精选Cuvée Rosé Brut Champagne by Laurent-Perrier。 french heavyweights

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Seventh Course LILIAN BONNEFOI

Pastry Chef, Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc

I WANTED TO PRESENT a dish originating from the same era as the Eden-Roc Pavilion, which was the turn of the twentieth century. So I’m offering Peach Melba, a dish created by Auguste Escoffier over a hundred years ago. Escoffier was a very important person at the time the pavilion was built. He divined the dessert to celebrate his muse, the opera star Nellie Melba – it’s quite a romantic story! I’ve harnessed ingredients from the South of France to perfectly recreate the taste of the dish. The peaches come from the Rhône Valley. We use the white variety because the flavor is much more delicate – yellow peaches are a little sweeter. The ice cream is made with raspberries from St. Cézaire, where we have an organic producer located at an altitude of 800m, and the almonds are imported from Polignac. The South of France is so rich in fruits because we have so much beautiful sunshine here. What I like best about being a patissier is the magic that’s involved. You mix flour, sugar, eggs and – just like that – you have a cake! Something miraculous happens in the oven. Someone once said to me: “If you want to be rich, become a chef; if you want to be happy, become a patissier.”

我的概念是做出和 Eden-Roc Pavilion 同年代，亦即 21 世纪交替时期的代表性甜点，所以就想到百年前甜点大师 Auguste Escoffier 创作的拿手点心水蜜桃梅尔巴。Escoffier 于酒店落成之际扮演举足轻重的角色，甜点背后有段浪漫故事，相传是 Escoffier 为了心仪的缪思，歌剧名伶 Nellie Melba 所特别创作。我大量采用南法在地食材，让这道经典甜点的美味再现。水蜜桃选用的是隆河谷的白肉种，相较偏甜的黄色种，味道更为细致。我们在 St. Cézaire 邻近山区海拔 800 公尺处有个长期合作的有机小农，用其供应的覆盆子制成冰淇淋，杏仁则自 Polignanc 进口。南法通年阳光普照，孕育出许多味道鲜美的水果。厉害的糕点师傅能用双手施展魔法，也是让我一直乐享工作的最大理由。面粉、糖及鸡蛋和一和，就这么简单，蛋糕就蹦出来了！烤箱里会出现美妙的化学变化，有句话我记得很清楚：「想有钱就当主厨；要开心就做糕点师傅。」

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Peach Melba

with Caramelized

Polignac Almonds 水蜜桃梅尔巴佐焦糖 Polignac 杏仁

We encase the white peach flesh in translucent ruby-red jelly. Then we make a Chantilly cream with white chocolate and vanilla, and mix vanilla ice cream with raspberry ice cream to create a ripple effect. The raspberry ice cream is made from late-fruiting berries. They are the best because the flowers get lots of sun during July, which makes for a very sweet flavor. Early raspberries have a bit too much acidity for this recipe. I have changed the presentation – we are serving the Peach Melba on a plate rather than on the traditional dessert dish. I pipe the Chantilly in a pretty design and put the peach in the middle. Finally, I decorate it with thinly sliced caramelized almonds. 水蜜桃白肉在这道甜点中被封入朱红晶莹的果冻，后以白朱古力及香草制作 Chantilly 鲜奶油，再把香草及覆盆子冰淇淋混合，漾出涟漪般的视觉效果。覆盆子冰淇淋原料选用产季晚期果实，因覆盆子花七月间吸收大量阳光，产生香甜的味道。初期覆盆子有点过酸，不适用于今晚的甜点。摆盘上我也加了点变化，不用传统点心盅，而选用餐盘装盘。 Chantilly 鲜奶油涂层为底，中间放上水蜜桃，美不胜收，最后再缀上薄切焦糖杏仁就完成了。

This dish is paired with Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia 2008, chosen by Andreas Larsson 搭配 Andreas Larsson 精选 2008年Pendits Tokaji Aszú Essencia。

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Crunchy Pod of Creamy

Peruvian Chocolate Mousse,

Lemongrass-Infused Sorbet 秘鲁朱古力慕斯酥派佐柠檬草冰糕

This dessert is a mélange of texture and taste. There is a croustade at the interior of the pod, accompanied by lemongrass sorbet and a very light chocolate mousse. Small pieces of jelly add some moistness to the dish and keep it from becoming too heavy. I chose to work with a Peruvian chocolate. When I tasted it for the first time, I found it slightly acidic, and I thought it would go really well with lemongrass, which is light and brings freshness to the dessert. Chocolate and lemongrass make for a very interesting combination.

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

这道甜点吃得到各式口感及美味。豆荚内部铺着饼皮，搭配柠檬草冰糕及味道清雅的朱古力慕斯，小块果冻则增添湿润感，吃起来不会太重，更显轻盈。今晚我采用秘鲁朱古力，第一次尝试时 , ，我就觉得轻微的酸味和柠檬草的清爽味道一定很搭配，能让甜点更添清爽风味。朱古力和柠檬草，算是很有趣的特殊组合。

This dish is paired with a Porto Quinta do Bom Retiro Ramos Pinto, Tawny 20 years old, chosen by Serge Dubs 搭配 Serge Dubs 精选窖藏20 年Porto Quinta do Bom Retiro Ramos Pinto, Tawny。

I’VE CREATED A DESSERT that resembles the fruit of the cocoa tree. I began by photographing real cocoa pods and studying them so I could create the most lifelike effect. Cocoa pods, of course, are the source of the chocolate we all enjoy. I wanted to commence with chocolate and turn it back into a cocoa pod, reversing the process. Inside my pod are beans, just as in the real thing. There’s a lot of work involved in making this dessert look lifelike. Each part of the branch has to be molded, then we paint the surface of the dessert with a little gold powder. This is a “discovery dessert” – the pod is served closed, then opened by the guests at the table to reveal the beans hidden inside. This makes it seem almost alive. Chocolate can be very rich, and because this will be the final dish of the menu and the third dessert, I have to keep the flavors as light as possible. When you take a bite of a dish, you need to have all the textures in one mouthful. If the chef scatters ingredients about the plate – a little bit of sorbet here, a jelly there – there’s no logic to it. The only case where that’s permissible is when you’re creating a flavor path, with one flavor leading to another. The textures of my desserts are meant to collectively evoke positive emotions, and ideally patisserie should both nourish the spirit and give sensual pleasure – slightly forbidden pleasure!

Eighth Course LAURENT JEANNIN Pastry Chef, Le Bristol Paris

甜点的灵感来自可可树的果实，我去找真的可可豆荚，拍下来研究，因此做出来保证栩栩如生。我们都知道，可可豆就是朱古力的来源，但我想倒转一下这个流程，由朱古力开始着手，再转回可可豆荚。甜点豆荚里放进豆子，和真的没两样。要做出实物的拟真感要花很多功夫，每个枝节都要铸模，甜点表层再洒上一些金色粉末。享用这道甜点就像场「发现之旅」，上桌时宾客要打开闭合的豆荚，可可豆露出之际一切就像真的一样。朱古力有时味道很浓，但作为最后一道菜，又是第三道甜点，入口的感觉要越清淡越好。朱古力一定要一口吃下，才能感受不同素材交织的美味。这边放冰糕、果冻丢边边，整个食材散置盘上完全没有道理可言，但若想在盘上营造一种美食路径，让味道顺势相连的话当然又另当别论。我的甜点有各种口感交融，希望让吃的人心情开朗。甜点师傅的最高境界要既能抚慰心灵又可撩拨感官快感。

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Of Cuvées and Cognac 顶级特选 Cuvées 及干邑白兰地

TO COMPLEMENT the evening’s epicurean adventure, three very special sommeliers were invited to Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc. Their challenge was to choose fine wines and spirits to pair with the extraordinary menu. Each of the following men holds the prestigious title World’s Best Sommelier. The competition was created in 1969 and takes place every three years. Winning it is the highest honor in the field. Serge Dubs from France was awarded the title in 1989, Markus del Monego from Germany in 1998, and Andreas Larsson from Sweden in 2007. These three top sommeliers will present their wine choices to the guests before each course. Dinner concludes on a high note, rounding off the centenary celebration in style, as the diners savor a 100-year-old Cognac. “We haven’t simply picked the well-known celebrity wines from big labels. We’ve chosen some magnificent wines that are perfectly suited to the dishes the chefs are preparing,” explains Markus del Monego. Andreas Larsson agrees, “We’ve selected from the elite of the wine world. When the wine is perfect, the chefs’ dishes reach their full greatness.” And Serge Dubs neatly sums up their role at the feast: “We hope everyone will be happy with the pairings. A sommelier’s task is not to sell wine, but to sell happiness.”

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美食庆典中美酒当然也不能缺席，Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc 特别礼聘三大顶级侍酒师搭配百年盛宴特别菜色，精选最适合的佳酿及烈酒。三位侍酒师大有来头，都顶着全球最佳侍酒师的荣衔而来。全球侍酒师大赛始于 1969 年，每三年举办一次，为品酒界的最高荣誉。来自法国的 Serge Dubs 于 1989 年摘下桂冠，德国的 Markus del Monego 及瑞典的 Andreas Larsson 则分别于 1998 年及 2007 年拿下冠军。三大侍酒师于每道菜之前临桌介绍精选葡萄酒，百年晚宴的欢庆氛围也于最后达到最高峰，以百年干邑白兰地划下最完美的句点。谈到选酒的过程，Markus del Monego 说明：「我们可不是从大品牌挑几款知名酒款敷衍了事，而是针对主厨们精心制作的佳肴挑选搭配度最佳的葡萄酒。」 Andreas Larsson 也附和：「我们把世界最棒的葡萄酒一字排开，精心挑选。酒搭配的够好，可让菜色更有风味，发挥百分百的美味。」 Serge Dubs 接着为三人在这场百年盛宴扮演的角色写下了注脚：「餐酒的搭配是希望让每个宾客都满意，侍酒师不卖酒，卖的是让人回味再三的快乐。」

“This Cognac is the same age as the EdenRoc Pavilion – 100 years,” observes Markus del Monego, World’s Best Sommelier 1998. “It’s incredibly rare. To prepare our guests for a taste of such precious brandy, we’ll start by giving them a taste of a Cognac from 1973 to – as the French say – ‘clean the glass.’ It may be a very luxurious way to clean a glass, but we need to get everyone ready for the 1914 Cognac – which promises to be truly remarkable .” 1998 年全球最佳侍酒师 Markus del Monego 强调：「这款干邑和 Eden-Roc Pavilion 年纪一样大，都要欢度 100 岁生日。为了能完全感受这款白兰地的强大魅力，我们会先呈上 1973 年干邑让宾客品尝，像法国佬常说的，为了『清清酒杯』。用白兰地洗酒杯听来奢侈，但唯有这样，宾客才能尽情享受这款 1914 年干邑入口后『通体舒畅』的完美韵味。」

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古堡三骑士

The Three Chevaliers

A B E A U T I F U L F R E N C H C H Â T E A U with a

long and illustrious history lies in the heart of the Côte d’Azur. Built on the foundation of a Roman fortified structure, it played host to Martin of Tours in the year 350 and now bears his name. In 1150, the property became the stronghold of the Knights Templar, powerful warriors who fought in the Crusades. The current building was completed in 1936, and recently restored by famous contemporary architect Luc Svetchine. Today it serves as the beautiful luxury hotel known as the Château SaintMartin & Spa. Open solely during the summer months, it is surrounded by a thirty-five acre park hosting hundreds of olive trees and spectacular views of the Mediterranean coastline. Over the next few pages, we will meet three modern knights who serve at the castle—one a proud guardian of the château’s treasure, another a crusader for the pleasures of the palate, and the third a champion of nature. BY LUCY MORGAN

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY DAVID HARTUNG

南法蔚蓝海岸中心地带有栋历史悠久的法国古堡，华美卓绝。城堡前身为古罗马要塞，西元

350 年曾是基督教圣人圣马丁的落脚之处，也因此得名。 1150 年十字军东征时期以骁勇善战著名的圣殿骑士团也曾以此为堡垒。现今建筑于 1936 年落成，近日由当代知名建筑大师 Luc Svetchine 翻修完成，为顶级奢华酒店 Château Saint-Martin & Spa ( 圣马丁古堡酒店 ) 所在地。仅在夏日对外开放的酒店占地广达 35 英亩，环境清幽，周遭被上百棵橄榄树环抱着，煞是壮观，在此更可远眺地中海海岸线美景，接下来的专题报导将围绕着守护城堡的三大现代骑士：一位是城堡百年珍宝的守护者、一位是美味飨宴的前行者，最后是大自然恩馈的引荐者。

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

GÉRAUD TOURNIER

Custodian of the Treasure Rumor has it that in the 12th century, the Knights Templar buried priceless treasure somewhere on the castle grounds. That treasure has never been found, but an insider leads us to another underground cache of valuables.

据传 12 世纪时圣殿骑士团在城堡地下埋藏大量无价珍宝，至今未得见世，但在识途老马带领之下，我们有幸目睹另一批地下宝藏。

DEEP WITHIN THE WALLS of the old French château, a smartly dressed custodian descends a spiral staircase. He passes through a heavy door and punches a secret code into a wall-mounted keypad. An elevator arrives to carry him deep down to the lowest levels of the castle’s foundations where a cool subterranean chamber lies, its limestone walls sculpted by an ancient underground spring. It’s the perfect environment for protecting one of France’s greatest treasures – its wines. The custodian is Géraud Tournier, Head Sommelier of Château Saint-Martin & Spa. A man of obvious culture and vast experience with wine, Tournier oversees the lists at all three of the hotel’s dining venues – the Michelin-starred restaurant, Le Saint-Martin; the contemporary-chic brasserie, Le 180°; and the charmingly rustic outdoor summer grill, L’Oliveraie. Tournier, with understandable pride, took TK on a tour of his domain. “We have two different cellars, one for local wines and Champagne, which is like a storeroom, and this one, where we can hold tastings for our guests,” he says. “This cellar has an area for Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, and Burgundy. It’s wonderful to have the great wines from France to pair with the Michelin-starred cuisine of Le Saint-Martin, but I also like to introduce guests to something new, especially when they are dining in the gardens at L’Oliveraie or at Le 180° where the atmosphere is more relaxed. We also have some small appellations on the list as well as organic wines. It’s very much in the spirit

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of this property to respect nature and use local products.” Château Saint-Martin is perfectly situated in the South of France, an area famed for red and rosé wines. The sun that delights residents and visitors over the summer months is detrimental to white wine production because the heat raises the grapes’ sugar levels which then increase the alcohol content, making whites less refreshing after a glorious day at the beach. However, Tournier has discovered some local white wine gems from vineyards close to the Mediterranean where grape sugar levels stay relatively low due to the sea breezes and cool nights. “Overseas guests particularly like to discover local wines. Very often they will try one on their first night here. We really pride ourselves on understanding our guests’ palates.” In addition to offering a stellar selection of wines to guests at the hotel, Tournier holds wine tastings in the château’s wonderfully atmospheric cellar. He believes that interest in wine has increased enormously over the last fifteen to twenty years. “Guests can ask for a tasting during their stay, and we’ll take them to the cellar to taste wine before dinner or whenever it suits them. We also have a wine club here consisting of local connoisseurs. Once a month we meet for a tasting in the cellar, then enjoy a wine-pairing dinner afterwards. Our hotel residents are welcome to join us as well.” Hewn from the limestone rock beneath the Château, the cellar is a truly impressive creation. Its ambient temperature stays

法国古堡城墙深处，打扮讲究的守护者自回旋楼梯优雅而下，穿过一道厚重大门，于嵌入城墙的键盘锁输入密码后，转身进入电梯，一路到城堡最底层地基处，映入眼帘的是一间秘密的别致内室，石灰岩墙面遗留着古时候地下泉水斧凿的痕迹，这里完美得如同为藏酒量身打造一样，圣马丁古堡以酒藏丰富著名，品质之精良在法国数一数二。守护者名为 Géraud Tournier，他对葡萄酒文化知之甚详、经验丰富，身为圣马丁古堡酒店首席侍酒师，酒店三大餐厅酒单都由他打理：米其林星级餐厅「Le Saint-Martin 」、当代时尚餐厅「Le 180°」以及乡村风格的夏日烧烤户外餐厅「L’Oliveraie」。想当然尔 Tournier 对自家酒藏自豪不已，带领 TK 团队深入酒窖。他表示：「我们有两个酒窖，一个像储藏室，专放地方酒品及香槟，我们现在所处的则是可让客人一尝美酒的品酒室，可品尝波尔多、隆河谷 (Rhône Valley) 及勃根地产美酒。我们广罗法国及意大利的顶级葡萄酒，专门拿来与 Le Saint-Martin 米其林等级的美味餐点搭配，但有时在 L’Oliveraie 户外庭园或 Le 180° 较轻松的用餐环境下，为客人介绍新酒也是一件愉快的事。酒单上还有少部分的国产级和有机酒类，正好和古堡酒店尊重自然环境及使用地方农产的理念不谋而合。」古堡位处南法，正是红酒及玫瑰酒的盛产区，然而夏日时节让住户及游客心情为之愉悦的晴朗阳光，却是白酒类产品的一大天敌，会让葡萄糖量升高以致酒精含量增加，在海滩经过太阳一整日的晾晒，之后鲜度整体大打折扣。除此之外， Tournier 也发现临地中海，有些庄园所产

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between 13 and 13.5 degrees, ideal for storing wine. Tournier reveals the secret to maintaining the perfect cellar: “We keep our reds, whites, and Champagnes at the same temperature, about 13.5 degrees, which is the cellar’s natural temperature. During the heat of July and August, we rely on air conditioning to be sure that the temperature remains constant. However, the most critical factor is humidity. We need high humidity in the cellar. Low humidity dries the cork allowing air to taint the wine. If the weather gets a little dry – as it is at the moment – we water the gravel which covers the cellar floor to ensure the humidity level remains optimal. The reason we store the wines on their sides is so the cork can remain in constant contact with the wine. Oxygen is wine’s greatest enemy.” Besides functioning as an ideal environment for storing wine, the cellar is beautiful to behold. The exposed limestone walls offer an appealingly rugged surface. Tournier laughs. “When the guests come in, they always touch the rocks – there’s something very alluring about them.” Set into one wall, and protected by cast iron bars, is a recessed space holding a number of single wooden wine boxes all carefully stacked. Tournier explains: “We call this The Tomb. It holds wines selected by the hotel staff to mark each passing year. Every November 11th, we gather here to celebrate the feast of St. Martin, Bishop of Tours. We write down the year, the names of the people working here, and any important events from the past twelve months. Then we seal the note in a box with the wine. It’s a bit like a time capsule.” Tournier, delighted to be associated with the château’s proud history, confesses: “The first time I visited this cellar, I knew it was the place for me – it has such a special atmosphere.” Yet when asked about the legendary Templar treasure concealed on the grounds, he just shakes his head and smiles, “I am not interested in finding gold. I have all the treasure I need here in my cellar.”

Ermitage This Ermitage is very dear to me. It is a red Syrah from a property 100km south of Lyon. Four times per decade, they produce this Cathelin special cuvèe in very small amounts from very old vines. It is rich and powerful with scents of blackcurrant, violet and iris. This Rhône Valley wine is wonderful – perfect with wild boar or hare. 我个人很爱 Ermitage，由里昂南方 100 公里的酒庄所产，使用古老品种红希拉 (Syrah)，每十年仅四次酿制极少量的特级「Cathelin」，味道丰醇，带有黑茶藨子、紫罗兰及鸢尾花的浓厚气息。这款隆河谷酒种极为顺口，是野猪和兔肉料理的最佳拍档。 french heavyweights

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St Pierre 2011 This white is a local one from Île Saint-Honorat, the island with the monastery named Abbaye de Lérins. The monks there make the wine out of 60 percent Clairette grapes and 40 percent Chardonnay. The vineyard is tiny – only three hectares grow white grapes. The cool sea breezes allow the grapes to retain an unusual freshness. It does not overpower the wine’s delicious mango and pineapple notes. 这款白酒来自以「Abbaye de Lérins」修道院闻名的小岛 Île Saint-Honorat，由岛上修士以 60% 克莱蕾 (Clairette) 及 40% 夏多内葡萄混酿而成。生产白酒的葡萄园占地极小，仅 3 公顷。凉爽海风吹拂下，葡萄鲜美非常，但又不至于抢了芒果及凤梨味道的风头。

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葡萄拜海风吹徐及夏日凉夜所赐，含糖量终能维持低档。他分析：「海外客人通常来的第一晚就会迫不及待想尝试地方产葡萄酒，对客人喜好了若指掌可是我们酒店的拿手特色。」除了给客人供应酒店窖藏的美酒， Tournier 也在古堡气氛绝佳的酒窖内举办品酒会。据他的观察，最近 15 到 20 年之间品酒爱好者人数大幅增加。「住宿期间客人可享一次品酒机会，晚餐前或其他指定时间由专人带至酒窖品酒。在此也有地方品酒家组成的俱乐部，每个月定期聚会品酒，离开酒窖正好享用一顿餐酒完美搭配的晚餐，酒店客人想参加也随时欢迎。」酒窖顺着古堡石灰岩基石辟开打造，设计精妙的程度令人印象深刻。室内常年维持在藏酒最适温度 13 及 13.5 摄氏度。 Tournier 也不吝透露打造完美酒窖的秘诀：「红酒、白酒和香槟都在酒窖自然室温 13.5 度下冷藏，七八月炎炎夏日下则有赖空调维持温度不变，但湿度其实才是真正的关键所在，酒窖需要高湿度，湿度太低橡木塞变干会让空气进入破坏酒体。如果天气像最近一样略为干燥的话，我们会向酒窖地板上的碎石浇水以维持最适湿度。酒顺瓶边倒放保存可让橡木塞接触到酒液。氧气可是葡萄酒最致命的敌人。」除了作为藏酒的最佳场所，酒窖本身就是一方美丽的建筑，石灰岩外露，凹凸不平的墙面仿佛诉说故事一般引人入胜。 Tournier 笑着说：「客人步入酒窖，总忍不住要摸摸石灰岩－它有股莫名的吸引力。」酒窖一角，向着墙面打造，铁条护着的是悉心堆叠的数个木头酒箱。 Tournier 说明：「这个我们都昵称酒坟，每过一年酒店员工都会选定一款酒放入以资纪念。每年 11 月 11 日，我们都在此古堡前人圣马丁待过的地窖欢聚吃大餐，许多国家也都有聚餐欢庆圣马丁节的习俗。」Tournier 解释：「我们会写下年份、员工名字以及过往 12 月举行的重要活动，然后就把卡片和酒一同放入木箱封存，有点像时光胶囊一样。」对于身为此地光荣历史的一分子， Tournier 也细数和古堡的缘份：「第一次来到酒窖我就知道自己属于这里，里面有种特殊的氛围。」问到圣殿骑士团埋藏地底的宝藏，他摇摇头笑着说：「有没有黄金我没兴趣，我要的宝藏酒窖里通通都有。」

La Grande Rue This is a Burgundy which I adore, but we are only able to acquire three bottles per vintage. The vines grow in a strip across perfect terroir. It is a truly elegant wine with a very light color because it is stored in very old oak casks. It will be wonderful after fifteen to twenty years – if you can keep it that long! 这款勃根地让我爱不释手，但每个庄园只买得到三瓶。种植葡萄株的地段风土状态近乎完美，真的是一款不可多得的佳酿，因藏于历史悠久的老橡木桶，色泽非常淡雅。窖藏 15 到 20 年后品尝风味最佳，前提是在此期间要忍住不开封才行！ french heavyweights

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FLORENT MARGAILLAN

IN AN ANCIENT CHÂTEAU, perched on a hill and reached by quiet winding roads, a young crusader is hard at work, maintaining his reputation as one of the best in his profession. He is Florent Margaillan, Pastry Chef at Château Saint-Martin & Spa, a beautiful property high above Vence in the South of France. A mere 27 years old, Margaillan has already won the title Champion de France du Dessert (2010) and is about to take his Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) exams, a fiercely competitive and highly regarded test of skill. If successful, his chef ’s jacket collar will be decorated with the iconic blue, white, and red of the French Tricolor. Margaillan is modest, cool-headed, and deeply committed to his craft. He finds Château Saint-Martin & Spa the ideal environment for creating his inventive patisserie: “The property is magnificent – the tranquility and calm of the place is wonderful, and here our guests are truly able to relax. They have time to enjoy their food, to linger over lunch and dinner, and I like to bake for people who can truly appreciate my work.” The tasks of a pastry chef are surprisingly diverse. “The most interesting thing for me is the wide-ranging nature of my role,” says Margaillan. “I have the chance to experience every facet of the patissier’s job. During the course of one day, I might create pastries for breakfast, large tarts to be sliced and served at lunch, and plated desserts for the gourmet restaurant, as well as some confisererie. I always experience the same pleasure – the recipes may be different, but I am never bored.” He also believes that the nature of patisserie is fundamentally whimsical, and that no one dessert or pastry is better than another. “Your favorite sweet treat depends entirely on outside factors. What time of day is it? Who are you with? What is the weather like? What is your mood? Your preference can change at any moment.” Margaillan tells us that rising to the challenge of a role devoted to bestowing pleasure requires both imagination and intense concentration. It also demands a certain level of restraint and humility. He explains: “Desserts should appear as they taste and be simply presented.” Yet to whip up something simple

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Sweet Crusader Centuries ago, knights performed brave deeds to prove their worth, competing in tournaments where chivalry itself was the reward. Today, inside a beautiful French castle, steel armor has been replaced by chefs’ whites. TK interviews one of these modern culinary competitors who has already proven himself a champion.

数百年前，骑士以英勇事迹证明自己的存在价值，巡回竞技脱颖而出的英雄也成为骑士精神的代表。今日，美仑美奂的法国古堡内已不见钢铁胄甲，取而代之的是厨师白袍。当今餐饮界过五关斩六将的冠军级糕点师傅，这次也特别和 TK 团队分享美味的秘诀。

requires a significant amount of work, beginning with selecting the right ingredients. Château Saint-Martin & Spa is perfectly situated in a region where luscious fruits are nurtured in a fertile soil and ripened by a warm sun. Margaillan is delighted with the quality and choice available for his innovative desserts. “In terms of taste, fruits offer you a very light option,” he says. “I pay a huge amount of attention to selecting the perfect ones for my desserts. Ultimately, the produce is the basis of your work. You can add value to it, but the produce itself must be exceptional. With a really good fruit you don’t need to do a lot. You must respect it and add as little as possible to transform the fruit into something totally sublime. If, say, you have a really beautiful strawberry, don’t cook it just to seem modern – that doesn’t interest me in the slightest. Touch it as little as possible and let the true flavor shine.” This meticulous restraint is visible in Margaillan’s delicious mignardises, small sweet creations he prepares for guests to enjoy with coffee after a special wine-pairing dinner. An exquisitely plump raspberry is perched on a miniature tartlet filled with

沿着蜿蜒小径来到矗立南法山上的古堡，英气勃发的青年骑士投入工作，战战兢兢的态度，让他稳坐甜点界王者的宝座。此人正是 Vence 地区奢华酒店 Château SaintMartin & Spa 的糕点主厨 Florent Margaillan，年仅 27 岁已是英雄出少年，一举夺下 2010 年法国甜点大赛 (Champion de France du Dessert) 冠军，他也即将参加糕点技巧的试金石 : 法国工艺奖 Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF)，顺利通过竞争激烈试验的佼佼者，将在厨师袍衣领添上象征荣誉的法国国徽蓝、白、红三色。 Margaillan 待人和气、头脑冷静且一心钻研技艺，毫不松懈。对于以甜点为一生志业的他来说，圣马丁酒店可说是不可多得的理想环境：「这地方太棒了 , 静谧清幽，客人可以享受真正放松的假期、吃遍美食、不急不徐尽享午晚餐时间，对于品味绝佳的识货老饕，我也非常开心得以一展所长。」糕点师傅角色之多元可能超出许多人想像，这也正是让主厨爱不释手的地方：「要做的事包罗万象真的很好玩，糕点师傅工作各个面向我几乎都包了，一天由制作早餐糕点揭开序幕，接着大块蛋糕塔切片供午餐之用，然后为顶级餐厅制作精致的

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walnut cream. The sharpness of the raspberry cuts through the richness of the cream, and the juicy fruit texture perfectly contrasts with the crisp and impossibly thin pastry. A glimmer of gold leaf resting on the surface of the raspberry hints at the tremendous flavor inherent in this precious biteful. Likewise, the tender marshmallow tinged with pink is light and melting, offering a whisper of floral flavor. “I prefer to use essential oils in my patisserie and I am very fussy about quality,” says Margaillan. “ To this marshmallow, I’ve added essence of poppy. The flavor is soft and sweetly delicate. It makes the taste more interesting without complicating it.” He unwraps a creamy nougat bonbon studded with bright green pistachios and explains that the cooking process combines egg white with a carefully selected honey from the region. “The flavor of the honey is incredibly important in patisserie. Honey flavor can vary enormously, depending on the time of year and what the bees eat – I have to choose carefully. We also serve whole honeycomb at breakfast, which the guests love. It has a beautiful flavor.” Thus Margaillan’s delicious sweets are most definitely a culmination of his expertise, the peaceful surroundings of Château Saint-Martin & Spa and the abundance of prime local produce. “It’s essential for me that my work take place in a good atmosphere where we can concentrate and the team can feel happy and comfortable with one another. There should always be pleasure in work.” The pleasure he feels is evidenced in every bite of his luscious desserts. Guests regularly commend him. “I am never happier than when I am complimented for my tarte aux pommes,” he says. “It sounds simple, but you need to use the highest quality ingredients imaginable and combine them perfectly.” Margaillan tries his best to remain humble, but now and then a little pride shows through: “Sometimes I am asked to come out of the kitchen so a guest can thank me in person. It is the best feeling.” A knight could ask for no higher commendation.

“Desserts should look as they taste – and be simply presented.

”

甜点呈现应该简单为上，让人吃到原本的味道。 FLORENT MARGAILLAN, PASTRY CHEF OF CHÂTEAU SAINT-MARTIN & SPA

装盘甜点，有时也有来自糕点店的邀约等，我总能乐在其中 , 接触不同食谱，我从不会觉得无聊。」Margaillan 强调糕点本是天马行空，没有说哪一块点心或蛋糕更有优势。他解释：「人对甜点的喜好随外在因素不同也会有所变化，像是享用点心的时段、共进甜点的人、天气、心情等，可以说一个人的喜好随时都在转变当中。」要能透过糕点散播欢乐，Margaillan 认为想像力及专注力都不可或缺，懂得适时收手及谦逊也相当重要。他说明：「甜点呈现应该简单为上，让人吃到原本的味道。」但要「简单」可不是易事，其中精繁的功夫让人咋舌。第一步便是挑选正确的食材，圣马丁酒店所在位置得天独厚，水果受到肥沃土壤滋养，并在和煦日照下成熟，味道甘美，在地水果无论品质及选择多样性均无懈可击，Margaillan 得以大展身手制作创意甜点。他强调：「就味道来说，水果的多样性让人倾心。对于挑选甜点需要的水果，我丝毫不敢大意，毕竟水果是甜点的基底；后续要加入不同元素增色当然可以，但水果本身品质一定要好。水果够好的话，师傅要做的其实越少越好，要尊重水果的原味、在最小范围中微调，提升水果鲜味到更高层次。假设手头有很棒的草莓，切记不要因大家都用熬煮方式便盲目跟从，老实说那种作法我一点兴趣都没有。人为痕迹越少越好，让原味当主角。」 Margaillan「适可而止」美学在自己的美味杰作上展露无遗，完餐酒搭配特餐后，来点主厨特制甜点搭配咖啡享用，滋味妙不可言。浑圆晶莹的覆盆子置于核桃酱满盈的小蛋糕塔上，小巧可爱。覆盆子的酸

呛和着味道浓郁的核桃酱入口清爽不腻，覆盆子的多汁口感与薄如纸张的酥脆饼皮形成完美对比。覆盆子上放着金箔，似乎也预告即将于唇舌间绽放的美妙滋味。同样的，粉红法式棉花糖口感柔软，入口即化，带来一丝花香。主厨表示：「制作糕点时我喜欢放精油，对品质吹毛求疵。法式棉花糖中我加了罂粟精华，味道柔滑，细腻中带着清甜，在不混杂原味的前提下，让味道更为有趣。」主厨接着打开了一块覆满亮绿开心果的法式牛轧糖，制作过程中使用鸡蛋及地区特选蜂蜜，他强调：「蜂蜜在糕点中扮演举足轻重的角色，依据采收时节及蜜蜂进食食物不同，味道差异极大－所以挑的时候真的要非常小心。圣马丁酒店早餐是整块蜂蜜上桌，每每让客人惊喜不已。味道真的非常棒。」炉火纯青的技术、酒店与世无争的优美环境以及丰富的高品质地方农产，正是 Margaillan 甜点的美味秘诀。他形容圣马丁像个大家庭：「工作地点一定要营造愉快的气氛，才能让团队成员完全投入，并相处得愉快、舒服。总之，工作一定要开心。」乐在工作的开心气氛，也透过精心制作的糕点一口一口传递给所有到访的宾客。面对客人发自内心的赞誉，Margaillan 满心感谢：「糕点受到青睐是我最开心的时刻。糕点制作听来简单，但没有最高品质的食材、综合运用发挥美味的技术却万万不能。」主厨受访期间一直谦逊自持，但最后也不禁志得意满表示：「有时外场会请我从厨房出去，好让客人当面感谢我，那真是全天下最棒的感觉。」甜点骑士功勋大概莫此为甚。 french heavyweights

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TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

FRANCK FERIGUTTI

Nature’s Champion

In tournaments long past, a knight in the lists might ask to wear the ribbon of a lady whose heart he hoped to win, dedicating his performance to her name. TK talks to a present-day contender in the culinary world who faithfully wears the ribbon of the one he loves.

中世纪骑士巡回竞技时，可能会戴上心仪爱人的缎带，为拿出最好的表现赢得美人芳心。 TK 这次与当代餐饮界骑士深度访谈期间，对他时时不忘将「今生所爱」的缎带随身携带印象深刻。

DESPITE HAVING CONQUERED the culinary world, Franck Ferigutti hadn’t always wanted to be a chef. His first love was forestry. “Simplicity is very important to me,” says Ferigutti, Executive Chef at Château Saint-Martin & Spa. “I am a very simple person. The most important thing in my life has always been being close to nature.” Yet when he felt the call of the kitchen, he heeded it. “Becoming a chef was a choice of the heart,” he says. “I took the exams for a special school to study forestry, then I said to my parents, ‘I want to study cooking.’ Just like that! I don’t know why, it just happened. Being a forester or a cook, they are very different jobs. A forester works outside in nature; a chef toils in the kitchen. But a chef still works with the products of nature, all the fruits of the earth and the sea.” After choosing the kitchen over the forest, Ferigutti can now glance back upon a long and successful career spanning more than thirty years and with a variety of talented mentors. His extraordinary skill has been recognized and rewarded, most notably

圣马丁古堡酒店总厨 Franck Ferigutti 雄霸餐饮界已久，但曾经森林才是他的最爱：「我很在乎单纯性，为人简单，亲近自然是我最重要的事。」不过对于厨房的呼唤，他也全力以赴。「我先考完森林学专门学校招生考试，才和父母说『想读烹饪』。森林专家要在大自然工作，厨师虽然在厨房忙碌，但经手的是大自然的产物、地上的水果及大海的馈与。」命运的抉择，弃森林从烹饪，Ferigutti 回首 30 多年成功的厨师生涯，曾拜多位大师为师。他以超凡技巧引起注目并获奖肯定，以摘下 2000 年法国工艺奖 Un des Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (MOF) 最广为人知。担任圣马丁行政总厨也是 Ferigutti 生涯高峰之一，为米其林一星餐厅「Le Sa int-Martin」、360 度露台视野的时尚餐馆「Le 180°」以及以庭园为腹地的户外烧烤餐厅「L’Oliveraie 」掌舵，揉合乡间及多元风格的理想环境，让总厨如鱼得水：「这实在很棒，看看建筑及地面设计有多赏心悦目。视野令人叹为观止！」客人在 Le 180 ° 露台可以欣赏日出日落，乡间美景也尽收眼底。

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when he earned the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (MOF) in 2000. His present role as Executive Chef at Château Saint-Martin & Spa is the culmination of his life’s journey, allowing him to helm Le Saint-Martin, an elegant Michelin one-star restaurant; Le 180°, a stylish brasserie with a panoramic terrace; and L’Oliveraie, an outdoor grill set within the delightful gardens of the property. The combination of a stunning countryside and a varied portfolio of restaurants makes the Château Saint-Martin & Spa a perfect culinary atmosphere for Ferigutti. The cuisine typical of the South of France relies heavily on fresh seasonal ingredients. Ferigutti feels he is perfectly placed to source the kind of produce that will afford his dishes with the utmost flavor. For me, the beauty of this rural location lies in discovering the many small producers of local delicacies. “There is a lady who only grows organic vegetables and I buy most of mine from her – their flavors are amazing,” Ferigutti says, showing us a basket of vibrantly colored and sweet-smelling nightshade vegetables: tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. “This red tomato is large and elongated, and bears the name Bull’s Heart. When sliced, the flesh bleeds pure, sweet, juice from each of its four chambers. A striped green tomato is perfectly ripe despite its color. This is a Green Zebra,” he says. The flavor of the latter is so exquisite that Ferigutti’s brow furrows at the suggestion of cooking it. “That would be a shame,” he says. “The raw flavor is so perfect.” Next to a shiny purpleskinned eggplant is a gleaming white version, a local specialty. “The white eggplant has a more delicate flavor and texture. It is less bitter than its purple brother,” he says. “We use it to make a kind of ‘caviar’ because it is perfect for this. When we make the local delicacy ratatouille, we use the firmer and more robustly flavored purple eggplant.” Ferigutti strolls out to L’Oliveraie, Château Saint-Martin & Spa’s outdoor grill, open in the summer months at lunchtime. The tables are scattered through an olive grove where guests dine under the shade

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“The beauty of this rural location

for me is discovering all the small producers of local delicacies. 发掘地方食材小农是这个乡间地方最美丽的风景之一。

”

FRANCK FERIGUTTI, HEAD CHEF AT CHÂTEAU SAINT-MARTIN & SPA

of century-old trees, their silver-leaved branches laden with fruit. The olives are harvested to make a delicious savory tapenade, a paste of salty and strongly flavored minced olives. Some of the fruit is pressed to make oil of the purest and most fragrant quality, which guests pour into pale green pools on their plates and soak up with pieces of crusty fresh bread. There is something elemental and inspiring about these surroundings – eating the produce from the trees above while knowing that every ingredient in every dish has been lovingly chosen by Ferigutti. L’Oliveraie is set against the dramatic backdrop of a craggy peak where Ferigutti has discovered yet another culinary gem: “Behind the mountain a goatherd makes his own cheese. It is fantastic, and I buy it for my restaurants.” Obtaining this cheese is complicated. Rough narrow paths make the goatherd difficult to reach. “I have to take a 4x4 vehicle,” he laughs. “But to me this is truly local produce. Rustic food always offers the best flavor.” Ferigutti explains his philosophy of simplicity in the kitchen: “My cooking may look simple, but it is difficult to carry out. You have to be extremely disciplined. In my gourmet restaurant, Le Saint-Martin, I have just thirty place settings so I can perfect every detail. Taste is so important to me, choosing produce with the very best flavor is the most fundamental element in cooking. And through my cooking, I express my love and respect for the produce. It’s how I communicate.”

南法料理常以季节食材为大宗：「发掘地方食材是乡间的美景，我们从有个只种有机蔬菜的太太那进货，味道棒极了。」总厨拿出个装满茄属蔬菜的篮子：「蕃茄颜色尺寸多样，像这个深红色品种叫公牛心，切片有四个心室。条纹蕃茄一身绿，但已完全熟成，别名绿斑马，味道细腻独特，问到是否煮食用，主厨皱皱眉头：「原味就完美了。」在亮紫色茄子旁放的是地方特色农产白茄子：「白茄子味道和口感都更好，但味道稍苦，做成『鱼子酱』再适合不过，做地方炖菜的话，选用耐煮、味重的紫色茄子。」在户外烧烤餐厅「L’Oliveraie」，餐桌分布在橄榄树园，饕客可在百年老树下用餐，发现枝干上结实累累，采集切碎做成咸味橄榄抹酱，味道浓郁。橄榄榨油，香气四溢，倒进盘内白绿相间，沾着酥脆面包入口，相当美味。客人享用上方橄榄树果实，深知盘内食材经过总厨严选，品质无可挑剔。「L’Oliveraie」傍山峰打造，Ferigutti 则另有发现：「山后方有个牧羊人，自己养山羊做乳酪，味道惊艳，也是餐厅指定使用。」珍贵乳酪取得不易，蜿蜒山径让路变得遥不可及。总厨笑说：「每次都要出动四轮驱动越野车，不过货真价实的地方农产总带着最棒的味道。」总厨谈到厨房里的单纯哲学：「我的菜看来简单，但实行相当困难，没有极高自律能力一切免谈。Le Saint-Martin 大概一次只能服务三十人，才能尽善尽美。味道优先考量，而挑选味道绝佳的农产，是做菜的先决条件。料理满载着我对农产食材的爱及尊重，也是我和外界沟通的方式。」

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极简至上

Heights of Simplicity

At Le Bristol Paris, Chef Eric Frechon elevates simple ingredients to heavenly realms.

UNDER A CLOUDLESS, powder blue sky, a white-coated waiter meanders into an urban oasis shaded by mature trees and brightened by scarlet and pink azaleas. Tendrils of ivy trail onto a perfect emerald green lawn, edged with neatly clipped box hedges. An intimate, leafy refuge in the heart of the government and embassy district of Paris, this secret garden is quiet and peaceful, save for the occasional burst of birdsong and the gentle sound of water flowing from a finely carved BY stone fountain. LUCY MORGAN These formal gardens are flanked by pillared PHOTOGRAPHY BY buildings with full-length DAVID HARTUNG windows that overlook the terrace set with inviting tables. The beautifully classic architecture belongs to the magnificent Le Bristol Paris, home to the Michelin three-star restaurant, Epicure, whose elegantly paneled and light-filled room was recently redesigned by architect Pierre-Yves Rochon in collaboration with Maja Oetker. Executive Chef of Le Bristol Paris, Eric Frechon, has received multiple awards for his exceptional cuisine throughout his distinguished career. He oversees all of the hotel’s restaurants, but

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蔚蓝天空下万里无云，一席白色制服的服务生，领着我们步上蜿蜒绿径，一路枝叶繁茂，万绿丛中不时缀着鲜红及粉色杜鹃，宛如置身城市绿洲。顺着藤蔓前行，映入眼帘的是已修剪整齐的方形树篱相隔、一片绿意盎然的草坪。这座秘密花园座落于巴黎政府机关及使馆区心脏地段，静谧清幽，偶有传出鸟语声及精心雕制的石造喷泉潺潺水声，更添遗世独立的氛围。造景花园紧挨着柱形建筑，大片露台美景透过落地窗一览无遗，让人也想到户外座椅坐着歇息一番。这栋美仑美奂的古典建筑属巴黎顶级酒店 Bristol 所有，米其林三星餐厅 Epicure 也隐身其中，镶饰典雅、光线充足的室内空间最近才由建筑名家 Pierre-Yves Rochon 及 Maja Oetker 共同操刀，重新翻修变身。Le Bristol 行政总厨 Eric Frechon 手艺炉火纯青，曾获多项大奖肯定，

Milk-Fed Lamb: Cooked from head to trotter flavored with harissa, zucchini semolina perfumed with argan oil. 奶饲羊肉：全只烹调，配以哈里萨酱辣酱，粗粒麦粉，意大利青瓜，榛果树油佐味

tasting destination

reserves Epicure for his most stylish and creative work. It is here that one can savor Frechon’s remarkable signature dishes like Bresse Farm Hen Poached in a Bladder. The recipe calls for sealing a hen inside a pig’s bladder and cooking it until exquisitely tender, which requires a keen understanding of poultry preparation. “You can’t open the bladder during the cooking to check the chicken,” says Frechon. “You just have to know when it is ready. Success relies on instinct.” Beyond his extraordinary signature dishes, Frechon offers guests the chance to sample his changing seasonal menu, which celebrates French produce at its very peak. “I like to take a really simple, high quality ingredient and cook it simply and elegantly,” says Frechon. “This is the style of cooking I like to execute, eat, and share. I prefer working with seasonal produce.” Not surprisingly, Frechon veers away from dishes laden with foie gras and caviar that are so often associated with pretentious gastronomy, preferring to delight his guests with less familiar ingredients. One such dish on the fall seasonal menu highlights large clams and razor shells. Chef Frechon is particularly pleased to have sourced the necessary large clams. “They are not very well known, so we enjoy introducing them to our clients,” says Frechon. “This is a traditional dish, and the traditional style is to serve the clams with breadcrumbs, garlic, and parsley. We chose to honor the original spirit of the dish, but present it with a modern twist.” In Frechon’s version, coral-edged large clams mingle with rose-pink razor shells in a circle of bright green sauce. The flavor of the clams is deliciously light and sweet. The sauce made from cucumber and curry is the perfect foil – sharp and with a slightly spicy kick. Served on a raised glass lozenge, the seafood appears to hover over the table. These creatures, which have been harvested from the water and cooked on land, now seem to rest on air. The ethereal presentation symbolizes Frechon’s commitment to elevating simple ingredients to a heavenly realm.

Frechon’s other seasonal starter is a blue lobster. The naturally fragrant and tender flesh is gently poached and beautifully complemented with soft avocado and a dousing of light and fresh gazpacho. The dish is perfect for the sunny weather often enjoyed by Parisians in early fall. “When you feel the sunlight, you want something refreshing, and this lobster dish with its delicate flavors fulfills that desire,” says Frechon. Some ingredients are only in season for a short time and Chef Frechon seizes every opportunity. His codfish dish makes use of

负责打点酒店所有餐厅，但在 Epicure，吃得到大厨兼具时尚及创意的美味精髓。饕客来到 Epicure，可以一尝 Frechon 最负盛名的招牌菜，如法国 Bresse 区所产母鸡做成的「膀胱鸡」便非常费工，母鸡要塞入猪膀胱煮至入口即化，对家禽肉类了解不够的厨师可做不来。有关火候如何拿捏，主厨只说：「要煮多久全靠直觉，自己掌握，中间可不能打开膀胱确认。」除了美味卓绝的拿手菜，也能品尝 Frechon 精心准备的时令菜色，用的都是当令法国在地农产。他说：「我喜欢挑简单、品质好的食材，简单处理就好吃、高雅。

“Curved lines and forms are more appetizing and they feel more sensual than straight lines. 圆弧曲线及形状开胃效果较佳，比直线更能触动感官体验。”

ERIC FRECHON, EXECUTIVE CHEF OF HOTEL LE BRISTOL PARIS

borlotti beans from Brittany. “They are only in season for one month, so we have to make the most of them.” The dish has a most elegant presentation: a thin spiral of pesto studded with creamy borlotti beans and fragrant basil tips leads to a piece of juicy cod. Flashes of color from pieces of scarlet pepper – piment d’Espelette from the Basque region – burst through. “This is a very fine and elegant marriage of beans and cod – perfect for this season. It sounds rustic, but the presentation is light,” says Frechon. A pattern emerges in the way Frechon presents his dishes, avoiding angles and straight lines, preferring curves and spirals. “Curved lines and forms are more appetizing; they feel more sensual than straight lines,” says Frechon. He demonstrates this philosophy with his milk fed lamb dish from the seasonal menu. Saffron-yellow zucchini petals veined

我崇尚这种烹调、品尝及分享美食的方式，运用当季时鲜入菜感觉真的很棒。」正因如此，Frechon 菜单中不见鹅肝或鱼子酱等感觉较为矫饰的食材似乎也不令人讶异，反倒常以名不见经传的素材为客人带来意外惊喜，秋季菜单中以巨蚌及剃刀蚌为主角的开胃菜便是一例。主厨特别找来这道菜不可或缺的巨蚌，且自豪表示：「食材知名度不高，但很开心有机会把它介绍给客人。烹调遵循传统方法，搭配面包屑、大蒜及巴西里出菜。我们加入现代元素，向传统精神致敬。」巨蚌边缘的珊瑚色调伴着剃刀蚌的瑰丽粉色，外面绕着一圈亮绿酱汁点缀。蚌肉入口散发淡雅甜味，小黄瓜及咖喱调制的酱汁味道鲜明带点辣呛，彼此搭配的天衣无缝。盛于浮雕精美的菱状玻璃杯上，海鲜像自餐桌漂到半空一般。来自大海的珍味，陆上烹调后宛若浮在空中，妙不可言。精致装盘看得出大厨的用心，简单食材也能带来天堂般的美妙滋味。 french heavyweights

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tasting destination

Large Clams and Razor-shells: Slightly cooked “garlic and parsley,” cucumber marinated with curry, quinoa chips. 蛤肉蛏子：配微熟大蒜香芹，腌咖喱黄瓜，藜麦片

with deep green are gently coiled to decorate a dish made with various cuts of milk fed lamb. A thin spiral of semolina and zucchini perfumed with argan oil connects the pieces of meat together like a gastronomic map. Chef Frechon explains, “The spiral contains the condiments. The main ingredient is set apart. The curved lines draw the eye to it. By presenting the dish like this, I ensure

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that the condiment doesn’t distract from the main event.” The main event is a tiny, milk fed lamb weighing less than 12 kilos. “Because it is milk fed, the lamb’s flesh is really sweet and pure, so you do need to add ingredients if you want a more complex flavor,” says Frechon. “I add harissa for some smoky spice. I also use different parts of the animal for an overview of flavors – sweetbreads, saddle,

shoulder. And I harness various cooking techniques to bring out the flavors of each cut. It is quite a subtle dish.” Frechon is matter-of-fact about the source of his creativity. “There’s no precise moment or way to describe how I am inspired. Ideas might come from a painting, a photo, or from my travels. When choosing dishes for my menu, sometimes I have

Blue Lobster: Refreshed with tomato juice and olive oil, fork crushed avocado lightly spiced. 蓝龙虾：搭配青爽番茄汁橄榄油，微辣牛油果蓉

另一道时令开胃菜以蓝龙虾作为主角，细嫩、香味四溢的龙虾肉悉心汆烫后，搭配软酪梨及新鲜清爽的蔬菜汤即可上桌，在初秋巴黎的微煦阳光下享用再适合不过。「沐浴阳光下，就想来点清爽的美食，味道细致的蓝龙虾正是不二选择。」有些食材的盛产时期几乎可用「昙花一现」来形容，大厨可说是每个机会都不放过，鳕鱼料理中便使用了布列塔尼所产的季

节食材 borlotti 花豆。 Frenchon 表示：「这种豆子产季不过短短一个月，当然要好好把握。」这道菜摆盘美得另人屏息：borlotti 花豆及香气浓郁的巴西里做成的青酱在盘中绕成薄薄一圈，引领饕客将目光移向味美多汁的鳕鱼。巴斯克地区特产 piment d’Espelette 辣椒带来数抹鲜红，颇有画龙点睛之效。 Frechon 自己都赞不绝口：「这是花豆和鳕鱼的完美组合，这个季节吃正是时候。乍

听厚重质朴，但摆盘让人耳目一新。」大厨装盘上菜有模式可寻，偏好弧度及环形，避免角度和直线。大厨自我分析：「圆弧曲线及形状开胃效果较佳，比直线更能触动感官体验。」季节菜单中 Frenchon 摆盘哲学的最佳例证非奶饲羔羊排莫属，番红乍黄的栉瓜花瓣透着深绿脉落，柔美烘托出羔羊肉不同部位的美味。Semolina 麦粉及栉瓜以 argan 榛果油提香后于盘上回旋散开，连结 french heavyweights

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Codfish and Roasted Squid: Cooked with “Espelette” peppers and coco beans from Paimpol with pesto. 银鳕鱼拼烤鱿鱼：配 Espelette 甜红椒，法国潘波勒可可豆伴香蒜酱

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tasting destination

an idea and it works out straightaway. Not very often, but it does happen. Sometimes I try many times, and attempt many different things before the dish is right. Sometimes I try something which never makes the menu. Ultimately, Epicure is about creation, about ideas and experimentation.” Frechon’s approach is upheld by the other members of his culinary team, including award-winning pastry chef Laurent Jeannin, who is known for his ability to evoke emotions and childhood nostalgia with his beautifully and sensitively executed patisserie. One favorite plays with a perfectly-ridged branch of chocolate set against a large white plate. Dusky green leaves straddle an amethyst-colored pool of sauce, scattered with pinpoints of gold dust, like evening sunlight reflected from a pond. Fresh blackberries at peak ripeness rest beneath the leaves. A spoon inserted into the sauce splinters a layer of the crunchy chocolate flavored with blackberry-infused tea. “I want guests to imagine themselves collecting blackberries in the countryside, although they are actually dining in the heart of elegant Paris,”’ says Jeannin, revealing the inspiration behind this beautiful Manjari chocolate dessert. He explains the chocolate and blackberry flavor pairing: “This dessert is very light, even though it is made with chocolate. Chocolate and blackberry seems an unusual mixture, but infusing chocolate with blackberry tea lightens it. At this time of year, blackberries are flourishing. Blackberries and chocolate make a great marriage. Better than pear and chocolate? No, not better. Different, and extremely good.” Chef Frechon has collected a total of four Michelin stars at Le Bristol Paris. In addition to overseeing the three-star Epicure, he steers top Parisian brasserie Le 114 Faubourg, which was awarded its first Michelin star in 2013. “How to run a fourstar kitchen? Well that is the question!” says Frechon. “We have to concentrate on excellence. The team must be on form, producing the highest quality without exception.” Judging from the latest seasonal menu at Epicure, his team is doing precisely that.

“Manjari” Chocolate: Glazed and creamy, infused with tea, nectar of blackberry from “Mont du Velay.” Manjari 巧克力：软滑细腻，以茶和 Mont du Velay 黑莓花蜜浸泡

各部份羔羊肉，串成一幅美食地图。大厨解释：「佐料就在回圈里，与主食材有所区隔的同时，又以弧线增添聚焦效果。透过这种安排，佐料绝不会有喧宾夺主之虞。」。料理重点在于 12 公斤以下的精选奶饲羔羊，大厨强调：「这羊只喝奶，肉质鲜甜纯净，需用一些额外食材增添层次，所以我用 harissa 辣酱增加些许熏呛，同时加胰脏、腰肉及羊肩等其他部位的鲜肉，让这道菜更加完整。要灵活运用不同烹饪技巧，才能带出每部位的美味，真的是功夫菜。」问到创意从何而来，Frechon 也实话实说，毫不掩饰：「怎么取得灵感其实我也说不清，可能一幅画、一张照片，或一段旅程就会感到灵光乍现。有时菜单选菜，顺从直觉便水到渠成，虽不见得每次都这么神，但确有其事。有时则要一试再试、尝尽各种方法才做得出来，有些菜甚至从来无缘于菜单上得见。不过创作、提出新想法及不断尝试就是我们 Epicure 的精神所在。」 Frechon 背后还有强大团队，一同将天马行空的想法付诸实行，其中金奖甜点师傅 Laurent Jeannin 的精美糕点带着细致口感，入口后有种牵动情绪及回忆儿时美好的魔力。这次在洁白大盘子上耸起一片华美的

Manjari 朱古力墙，暗绿叶片下流泄紫晶色泽的酱汁，上有点点金色粉尘，犹如池塘映照出的晚霞余晖，树叶下则摆着熟成度最佳的新鲜黑莓。最后酱汁上放置汤匙，划开一层满布黑莓果汁的酥脆朱古力。说到灵感来源，Jeannin 表示：「我想要客人即使身处优雅花都的市中心，甜品入口之际也能有如置身乡间采黑莓一般惬意。」他也进一步分析朱古力和黑莓搭配的独到之处：「甜点虽以朱古力制成，吃起来口感却清淡自然。朱古力和黑莓的组合虽然少见，但黑莓可让朱古力味道变得较为清爽，现在这个时节也正是黑莓的产季，和朱古力搭有相乘效果。比得过洋梨加朱古力吗？确实不然。但两者截然有异，而且前者味道好极了。」 Frechon 入主 Le Bristol 至今已经摘下四颗米其林星星，除了坐镇三星餐厅 Epicure 之外，正统巴黎小馆 114 Faubourg 也在主厨操刀之下于 2013 年首度获得米其林一颗星肯定。米其林殊荣加身，Frechon 自己也说：「四星厨房怎么管理？正是关键所在！追求卓越是我们的目标，团队要时时保持最佳状态，端出最高品质的餐点，不容一丝闪失。」从 Epicure 最新季节菜色来评断，Frechon 确实所言不假。 french heavyweights

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kitchen conversation

爱、艺术与技艺

love, art and technique Pierre Gagnaire is one of the brightest stars of French cuisine, famous for bold innovations rooted deeply in tradition, a global chef who has extended his success from Paris to restaurants in England, the United States and Asia. Barbra Austin met with him at his namesake restaurant at the Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, to talk about technique, emotion and what he likes to cook for himself. § Pierre Gagnaire是法

国料理界最耀眼的新星，他以深根于传统的大胆创意扬名国际，成功的事业版图从巴黎餐厅一路延伸到英国、美国和亚洲各国。这次 Pierre Gagnaire接受Barbra Austin Gagnaire同名餐厅畅谈自己对于料

理的技艺与独特情感，并大方分享喜欢做的私房菜。

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

的专访，于香港文华酒店的Pierre

Beef Tartare with Sea Urchin 牛肉他他配海胆

kitchen conversation

How do we define French food today? Is it the ingredients? Technique? The person doing the cooking? For me, food is love, art and technique. But to be honest, French food is the technique. We have many schools. We have a long history. We have many books. All these guys come to France, they love what we do, and everybody’s inspired by our work. I think it’s the technique, the knowledge – that’s the key to our work. And that knowledge has been passed down for a long time. But there doesn’t seem to be the same respect for technique today that maybe there once was. Today the technique is not there. They don’t know how to cook. They don’t know how to roast. I say that, but you have chefs who make the difference because they do have that. The technique is important but it’s not enough. You must have sensitivity, you must have creativity, you must have honesty and you must work. I’ve heard you talk a lot about emotion and intuition in cooking. This work – it’s not a normal job. I began to work forty-eight years ago when I was fifteen. It’s a long trip, to obtain the simplicity, the real taste – but it’s also changing every day. To keep the energy, to keep the capacity to have the pleasure to give pleasure: that’s the key. In our work you have a relationship with every guest, every day. Each day you must have the capacity to translate your emotion to the plate, and it’s difficult because it’s very tiring. Very tiring. What are some of the key lessons you try to teach young cooks who pass through your kitchen? To be honest and to concentrate and to be sure on the plate, in the work and about the details. When you put sauce on your beef, you must pay attention. Always you must pay attention to these kinds of details. After that, it’s to respect the product, to respect the team. Sometimes in the

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Lamb AAA with Wild Garlic 羊肉AAA伴野生大蒜

kitchen it’s like war. That, for me, is absolutely impossible. Yes, I’m the chef, but it’s not the army. We try to share something together, to share the pleasure, to offer something special or tasty to the clients who come every day. I understand that when you went into the family restaurant business as a youngster, it wasn’t necessarily because you had a strong desire to do so. When I was younger, I didn’t know exactly what I wanted. To be a chef – the secret was that I didn’t like the job. But I was in this industry. So I tried to find a link between the creativity and the job. And now you have restaurants all around the world. How do you manage them? It’s difficult. But when I began to do that I was fifty-three, fifty-four years old. It’s recent. For many, many years I was concentrated on one restaurant in one place. Now all these people work with me, it’s a team that I built with time. You need time. One thing that struck me in speaking with Jean-Denis le Bras, the chef de cuisine at Pierre, was that he told me he doesn’t pay attention to other chefs or

restaurants. He just focuses on what’s happening here. Absolutely. It’s the only solution. To not do that, you are not yourself. It sounds like you really understand each other. He is modest enough to accept my regards, and he is talented enough to understand what I want. For me, that is the key to success. And it’s interesting, because for many years I worked alone. Now I must share. For me it’s my pleasure, and also it’s the only way to go. There’s a lightness to your food. You use vegetables where others might rely on stocks or richer ingredients. Today, everybody talks about the vegetables. Me, I began to do that immediately. Vegetables are the perfect balance. It’s life: you have the water, the color, the texture. It’s very interesting. How do you cook at home for yourself? It’s too easy to say “simple.” It depends on the season. It depends where I am. But nothing special. For example: a piece of cauliflower, a chicken roast. It’s like everybody, eh? But it’s tasty, and the product is good!

Blue Lobster, Tuna Belly and Sea Beet

Oyster, Anchovies and Rhubarb

蓝龙虾配吞拿鱼腩及甜菜

生蚝、鯷鱼伴大黄

现在的法国料理应该如何定义？技艺至上？食材为尊？抑或厨师才是最重要的关键？对我个人而言，料理是爱、艺术与技艺的化身。但坦白说，法国菜非常讲究技艺，因其本身拥有着悠久的美食历史，厨艺学校比比皆是，还有许多以法国料理为主题的书籍，所以很多人慕名而来，到法国料理界取经，每个人都从中获得灵感。我认为定义法国料理的是技艺和知识 — 也就是这一行的关键。

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

这些知识已经传承许久，但现代人对于技艺似乎不像从前一样尊重。现代料理根本谈不上技艺，没人会料理，也没人会烤肉。当然，某些天资聪颖的厨师是例外，因为他们的确拥有一身好厨艺。但仅限于好厨艺是远远不够的，还必须具备敏感度跟创意，对料理抱持坦然态度且努力精进。我听说你对料理中的情绪和直觉颇有想法。这份工作 — 这可不是一般的行业，我从十五岁起开始工作，到现在已经四十八个年头了，走过这条漫漫长路，不断去寻找质朴的原味，需要每天都完善自己，不断改变。为了达到这个目标，你必须保持活力、必须让自己享受为他人带来喜悦，这是最重要的关键。身为厨师，你跟每位客人都会建立起一种关系，每天都如此，而每天你都必须能透过料理传达情感，这并不容易，其实很累人，非常累。

对于在你的厨房工作的年轻厨师，有什么重要的话想提醒他们吗？无论对于盘内菜色、烹调工作还是诸多细枝末节，都要心中有数，随时保持专注而笃定。为盘中的牛肉淋上酱料时，不能有一丝分神，诸如这类细节，绝不能马虎。而且要尊重你的成品还有团队，有时身处厨房如同亲临战场，紧张刺激，当然这种情况不会在我身上出现。没错，我是大厨，但我可不是军人，我们会与团队共同分享喜悦，为每天上门的忠实顾客烹调独特、美味的料理。我知道你年轻时接掌家族餐厅事业，原因似乎不完全是出于你个人强烈的意愿。我年轻时对于自己想要的并没有一个明确的目标。当大厨？说实话，当时的我对这个职业并没有多大好感。不过既然身在这一行，我就姑且试着将这份工作与创意相连结。现在我可以说，这是一份伟大的工作。日出而作，日暮而息。我每天都在与味道与构造打交道，乐此不疲。现在你的餐厅版图扩及全世界，你如何管理这些分店？很困难，我是五十三或五十四岁时才开始管理餐厅，以往我都只专注在一个城市的一间餐厅，多年来都是如此。现在有这么多人跟随我工作，这是我这些年来慢慢建立起来的团队，我们需要的就是时间。

访谈 Pierre 餐厅的行政主厨 Jean-Denis le Bras 时，有件事让我很惊讶，他说自己并不会去注意其他厨师或餐厅，而是一心一意专注于自己的餐厅。确实如此，这是唯一的一条路，不这么做你就没办法忠于自己。听起来你们很了解彼此。他很谦虚，愿意接受我的建议，也很有天份，知道我想要的是什么，对我来说，这就是成功的关键。这些过程很有意思，因为这么多年来我都是独立工作，现在必须跟人分享，这是我的荣幸，也一定得这么做。这些年来你料理方式的变化历程是如何？完全无法解释，这是一种演化的过程。你的料理总带有几分清淡，别人可能会仰赖高汤或更浓郁的食材，而你选择使用蔬菜。现在蔬菜是热门话题，我呢，我是立刻将想法付诸实行，运用到料理中。蔬菜能带来完美的平衡，就如同生命一般：其中的水份、色泽、还有口感的平衡，非常有意思。你在家时自己会怎么做菜？光说「简单」似乎太容易了，应该说视季节、视我所在的地方而定，但其实没什么特别的，就是青花菜、烤鸡这一类的家常菜，跟大家也没两样，对吧？不过非常美味，非常可口！ french heavyweights

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Pierre Hermé Paris Pound Cakes Pierre Hermé Paris 磅蛋糕

kitchen conversation

甜点至尊

pastry pinnacle From young apprentice to head of a multinational pastry empire, Pierre Hermé’s climb up the ladder of pastry success has been COURTESY OF PIERRE HERMÉ, DAVID HARTUNG (PORTRAIT )

confident and rapid. Adele Wong spoke with him about his business and his pastry creations. § 从懵懂的小学徒到开创跨国甜点王

国，Pierre Hermé 在糕点界声名鹤立的故事有如传奇一般，让他一路走来尽展自信风采。此次 Pierre 与 TK 作家 Adele Wong 进行直面交流，分享他一手打造的甜点事业和自己的得意之作。

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PH Cubes

Pâte à Tartiner Infiniment Praliné Noisette

PH 巧克力方块

巧克力酱

BORN IN 1961 into a family of Alsatian bakers, Pierre Hermé secured an apprenticeship with pastry master Gaston Lenôtre at the age of fourteen. Ten years later, armed with an impeccable pedigree and sheer talent, he joined desserts powerhouse Fauchon, reshaping and re-inventing many of its product lines while there. In 1997, he moved on to Ladurée and in the macaron specialist’s labs created one of the most famous of his innovative flavor bombs: the Ispahan. Named after the Iranian city, the coral-colored macaron is flavored with fragrant notes of raspberry, rose and lychee. In 1998, the citizens of Tokyo were blessed with their own Pierre Hermé shop at the Hotel New Otani in Chiyoda ward. Within a few years, Pierre Hermé stores started cropping up back in Paris. Nowadays, one can find Pierre Hermé’s products in six different regions across the globe, including Hong Kong, and there are continuing plans for expansion into Korea, Saudi Arabia and Kazakhstan, among other countries. Besides strange and wonderfully flavored macarons filled – depending on the season – with rhubarb, jasmine, cinnamon, or foie gras and olive oil, the shops typically stock

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chocolates, caramel toffees, cakes and whatever other sweet treats are emerging from Hermé’s creative fancy. In recent years, you’ve been establishing a pastry empire across the globe. Have you taken naturally to the business side of your work? I created our company with a friend, Charles Znaty, and when we started we didn’t want to open just a pastry shop. We decided to create a luxury brand. But I’m mostly concentrating on creating pastries, products and the daily production. That’s what I do – I started thirty-eight years ago and for my whole life I’ve been making pastries. Which of your creations do you consider your best work? The next one [laughs]. I prefer to speak about the next project rather than about the past. Let the past be past. Has working and traveling in Asia influenced your thinking about new pastries? Have you recently added any new ingredients or tried any Asianinspired ideas?

Before traveling to Asia, I had already been adding Asian ingredients to my products. But since I started traveling to Japan and Hong Kong, I’ve added specific ingredients from those countries. From Japan, for example, we have wasabi, red beans and matcha tea. And now I’m working on something with miso. For Hong Kong, I was inspired by Eight Treasures tea, and we will offer the “Huit Trésors” macaron in our shops. A breakthrough moment came for you when you were head pastry chef at Fauchon and you created your “Cherry on the Cake” – La Cerise Sur Le Gâteau. Could you take us back to that moment and tell us about creating the cake? The idea with this was to make a cake that was designed by a designer, but that looked like a real cake. That was my idea. At the same time, I found a very good milk chocolate and I decided to work with this milk chocolate, and the simplest way to match milk chocolate was with hazelnut. We still sell this cake in the shops in Paris on Rue Bonaparte and Rue Vaugirard. It’s been twenty years since I made this cake. There is a specifically designed box for this cake – it’s very dramatic. There’s a ribbon on

Chocolate Gift Boxes

Teas

巧克力礼盒

茶叶

top of the box. You unravel the ribbon, you take off the top and you have the box opening up like a flower.

COURTESY PIERRE HERMÉ (4)

You also use Criollo chocolate and have recommended it in some of your recipes. Why? Does chocolate made from Criollo cacao beans taste better than the other varieties? What’s different about it? We’ve used Porcelana – a specific type of Criollo coming from Venezuela – in our products. It’s one of the most delicate and flavorful chocolates. It’s refined in taste. It’s more expensive, double or more than double the price of regular chocolates. The production of our Porcelana was on a farm in Venezuela, south of Lake Maracaibo. We will not be able to source Porcelana from this farm in the future, but I’ve found another farm called Plantation Paineiras in Brazil that also has very, very good chocolates. You’ve advocated before against useless ingredients – ingredients that don’t contribute to taste and are on the plate purely for aesthetic reasons. How do you feel about gold leaf? Gold leaf? It’s a little bit different. I don’t

put ingredients for decoration just for decoration – except for gold leaf, because it gives brightness to a cake, makes it appealing. It’s interesting that I like gold leaf, and most pastry chefs like gold leaf. But when I work on a cake, I always take care to not have decoration just for the sake of decoration. The decoration has to make sense to the taste or texture of the cake. For pure pleasure, what are your favorite three pastries or desserts? If you have five children, it’s difficult for you to choose one of them and say, “That’s my favorite.” A journalist once asked Obama whether the French, and no longer the English, were his best friends, and he answered something like, “I have two children, and I love them both.” If you were going to give an aspiring pastry chef some advice, what would it be? I have a lot of advice, a big list. What I always say to young pastry chefs is that the most important thing is their passion and energy to learn. Ask to learn this and to learn that – be curious to learn about everything. Find out what you can about the

ingredients, the quality of the ingredients, where the ingredients come from, the story of the ingredients, because it will make you cultured and in the future it will aid your pastry skills and your ability to create. So be very open, very curious, very passionate – and a workaholic. Does a pastry chef need to go to France to learn things the right way? When you learn a cuisine, you can learn French cuisine, Spanish cuisine, Italian cuisine, or Chinese cuisine, but pastry making is a little different, because the most used pastry techniques are French, sometimes Austrian or German, but the very classic way to do pastry is French. If you want to make pastries, it’s important to learn the classical techniques of French pastries. This you can do in France, or you can learn in other countries with a well-trained pastry chef. But you have to learn the basics. It’s very important to start with the basics. When you see these television shows showcasing pastry chefs, this makes people think that it’s easy. No, it’s not easy. To be a pastry chef takes time. And nothing replaces time. To be a good pastry chef you have to have a good master and good techniques and time. french heavyweights

TK |

kitchen conversation

这几年 Pierre Hermé 陆续在世界开拓版图，对于事业的开展也是顺其自然吗？我和朋友 Charles Znaty 合伙开店之初就想把格局做大，不要限于糕点店的规模，而是要做一个奢华品牌。不过一直以来我的重点都放在烘培糕点和精制点心之上。我就是这样 38 年前到现在始终如一，把一生都奉献给甜点制作。最满意的作品是什么？下一个作品 ( 笑 )。比起以前，我更注重望向未来，过去的就留在过去吧。到亚洲工作、旅行有没有带来创作新糕点的灵感？最近有尝试任何新的食材或带入亚洲的相关元素吗？来这边之前就试过加入亚洲风味的食

TK | french heavyweights

材了，不过后来借着去日本和香港的机会，特别挑了一些当地的特色食材，像是日本的芥末、红豆和抹茶，现在手头上做的则和味噌有关。香港的话，八宝茶给我一些想法，之后在店里可能会卖「Huit Trésors」 ( 八宝 ) 马卡龙。

箔不在此列。蛋糕缀上金箔能够发光发亮，更加引人入胜。说来有趣，我爱用金箔，大部分的糕点师傅也都爱不释手，但做蛋糕的时候，我总不时提醒自己，别为了装饰而加上太多华而不实的元素，应该是为了风味或口感适时点缀装饰才对。

担任 Fauchon 糕点主厨算是你生涯的转捩点，还发明了「蛋糕上的樱桃」(La Cerise Sur Le Gâteau)。能不能回顾一下当时创作的过程？当时创作目的是要照设计师的设计方式来制作，但看起来也要跟真的蛋糕一样，这算是我自己的想法。当时刚好找到很棒的牛奶巧克力，于是决定把它加到蛋糕里，而第一个想到的搭配食材当然非榛果莫属。一转眼就 20 年了，现在巴黎 Bonaparte 和 Vaugirard 两家分店都还有出售。附赠的蛋糕盒也经过特别设计，充满戏剧效果。蛋糕盒上绑着蝴蝶结，拆掉拿起盒盖，蛋糕盒会呈放射状打开，有如盛开的花朵。

谈谈最爱的三种甜点？想像自己有五个小孩好了，硬要选一个「最爱的」真的有点强人所难。曾有记者问过欧巴马，是否法国已经取代英国成为美国最好的朋友，当时他的回答很妙，好像是说「我有两个小孩，两个都爱」。

您爱用 Criollo 巧克力，也常在一些食谱中大力推荐，为什么？是否 Criollo 可可豆做的巧克力比其他品种好吃，不一样在哪？我们糕点里用的巧克力叫 Porcelana，委内瑞拉进口，属于 Criollo 的一个特殊种类。Porcelana 味道细致丰富，少有其他品种能够匹敌，吃起来质感真的很棒，也比较贵，约是一般巧克力的两倍或更高的价钱。Pierre Hermé 专用的 Porcelana 来自委内瑞拉马拉开波湖南边的可可豆田，可惜之后可能会暂停合作进口，不过新的供应商已经找到了，是巴西一家叫 Paineiras 的农场，那边巧克力的品质也几乎无可挑剔。您曾疾呼要舍弃所谓无用的食材：即纯为装饰摆盘，却对味道毫无任何助益。那金箔您怎么看？金箔吗？其实不太一样。如果只是为了装饰而装饰，那种食材大可不用，但金

对于一心想成为糕点师傅的人，若要提供一些建议的话，您会说什么？要的话有一箩筐，一时半刻可说不完。不过碰到年轻糕点师傅，我常挂嘴上的一句话就是「保持学习的热诚及能量」。永远保持好奇心，问东问西，有机会什么都要学，像是可以将食材发挥到什么程度、食材的品质如何、出处为何、背后有什么故事等等，都能成为自己成长的养分，对于未来糕点制作技术或创造能力都有很大的帮助。敞开心胸、维持好奇心和无与伦比的热诚，加上对工作百分百投入就是不二法门。糕点师傅一定要去法国才能学到正统的制作技术吗？学做菜的话有分法国、西班牙、意大利与中式料理，但糕点制作有点不一样，大部分技术都起源自法国，少部份来自奥地利或德国，可以说「法式」就是正统。想走糕点这条路，法式糕点的经典制作技巧不可或缺。要学可以来法国，或去其他国家跟着受过良好训练的师傅学艺都行。但基本功一定要扎实，基本技巧是一切的开端。电视节目常看到糕点师傅大展身手，容易产生「不费吹灰之力」的错觉，但其实一点都不简单。糕点师傅的养成要花很多时间，无法速成。想成为糕点达人，要有师傅领进门、而扎实的技巧和道行就要靠个人了，当然，时间也是不可或缺的。

COURTESY PIERRE HERMÉ

Pierre Hermé 1961 年出生于法国阿尔萨斯的烘焙坊世家，14 岁时拜糕点大师 Gaston Lenôtre 为师学艺。十年后，作为 Lenôtre 的高徒、加上一身好本领，他加入甜点领导品牌 Fauchon，重新塑造了许多产品线，也加入不少原创发明。1997 年进入马卡龙名家 Ladurée，Pierre Hermé 惊动天下的招牌马卡龙「Ispahan」正是在此阶段诞生。以伊朗城市为名，珊瑚色的「Ispahan」融合红桑子、玫瑰及荔枝，入口后多重美味瞬间化开，令人惊艳。 1998 年，在东京甜点迷千呼万唤之下， Pierre Hermé 首家海外店终于在千代田区新大谷饭店正式开张。接下来几年，Pierre Hermé 又回到巴黎继续开疆辟土。时至今日，Pierre Hermé 版图已遍及全球，包括香港在内等六大地区设立分店，未来也将进军韩国、沙乌地阿拉伯、哈萨克等其他国家。来专卖店绝对不能错过以季节食材制作的马卡龙，有大黄、茉莉、肉桂，甚至鹅肝酱及橄榄油等各式新奇且味道丰富的口味，琳琅满目，另外像是巧克力、焦糖太妃糖、蛋糕及多种甜点也都是 Hermé 创意发想的美味结晶。

Macaron Ispahan Ispahan 法式小圆饼 (紅桑子、玫瑰、荔枝)

直击产地

For Jeremy Evrard, General Manager of Upper Modern Bistro, sourcing excellent cheeses means knocking on farmers’ doors – literally.

“IT’S STRANGE,” Evrard says, as he gingerly

divides a rare Corsican sheep’s milk cheese, “Buyers to artisanal producers will visit wineries. They’ll visit farms producing meat. But for cheese farms, that’s very rare – nobody goes to see them.” Yet before including any cheese on the tasting menu at Upper Modern Bistro, Evrard insists on a personal visit to its place of origin. His frequent refrain: “Cheese doesn’t lie,” refers to the subtleties of flavor the palate can detect from factors such as the varying diet of the sheep or the dryness of the air in which a cheese is aged. “Often when you venture to a farm for goat milk cheese, you will examine the animals and they’re all skinny and sad, quite

TK | french heavyweights

faded in color. The goat is a fragile creature. They lose so much energy producing milk that their appearances wither,” he explains. He points to a square of Pavé de la Ginestarié, a cheese sourced from an independent farmer near Albi, France. “When you meet the goats from this farm they’re all very sleek and happy, not skinny at all. You can see right away that they’re living very well. And that is evident in the quality of the cheese.” Evrard plans to travel through a different region of his native France each year, tasting the output of cheesemakers he’s known, in some cases, since he was 23. His passion for promoting cheese has made him acutely aware that unless a concerted effort is made today, the glory days

of true artisanal producers may be threatened tomorrow. “There’s no school for cheese, there’s no title you can earn if you’re good at making it. It’s simply an artisanal product that you buy, and the knowledge behind the art is being lost. The critical concern for many farms is that no one wants to continue the tradition. It’s a challenging industry, and the new generation doesn’t necessarily want to take it on.” Yet things may be improving. In 2016, France will launch its first cheesemaking school, with the aim of training students in traditional methods of making cheese, as well as in how to taste and present it. Besides his work in promoting rare cheeses at Upper Modern Bistro, Evrard is also taking up the artisanal cheese mantle. A few months ago, he purchased a small farm in France where he plans to make cheese from the milk of his own goats. “Happy goats, of course,” he says.

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

straight to the source

tasting notes

Upper Modern Bistro 餐厅总经理 Jeremy Evrard 谨慎地切开一块稀有的科西嘉羊奶起司，说道：「食材制造厂的供应商会亲自造访酿酒厂，也会造访生产肉类的农场。但他们却很少到起司农庄走走看看 , 从没有人这样做。」在把任何起司放上 Upper Modern Bistro 的菜单之前，Evrard 坚持一定要到起司的出生地走一趟。有一句话他常挂在嘴边：「起司不会说谎。」人的味觉能够尝出起司口味上微乎其微的差异，这些差异可能肇因于羊只饮食的改变，或是较干燥的空气使起司老化。 Evrard 解释：「当你为了羊奶起司而到农场走一趟时，常常会发现那些动物骨瘦如柴、毫无生气，毛色也褪得厉害。山

羊是脆弱的动物。它们花了太多体力生产羊奶，外形才会这么憔悴。」他的手指向 Pavé de la Ginestarié 上的一个方块，那是法国阿尔比附近一座私有农场，也是起司的产地。「这座农场里的山羊一点都不瘦弱，每一只都很快乐，毛色也非常亮丽。你马上就看得出来它们过得很舒适，这会很明显地反映在起司的品质上。」从 23 岁开始，Evrard 就排定计画，每年在他的故乡法国境内选择一处进行造访，去品尝他耳闻过的起司品牌所制造的起司。他对起司的热情让他非常了解，除非人们能够在今天继续协同前进，否则食材制造厂的荣耀时代将于不久就受到威胁。「没有学校会专门教你做起司，即使你

做得好，也得不到什么殊荣。它只是在市面上买得到的手工产品，而手艺背后的学问已乏人问津。现在很多农场的顾虑都是没人愿意延续这个传统。这是挑战性很高的产业，新的一代不一定愿意把它传承下去。」但情况到了 2016 年应该会好转，因为法国将开创第一所专研起司制造的学校，旨在训练学生用传统方式制造起司，以及教授品尝和摆盘的方法。 Evrard 除了于 Upper Modern Bistro 餐厅供应高级起司外，也将亲自担起传承的重责大任。几个月前，他在法国买下一座小型农场，计画自己豢养山羊，用它们的羊奶来做起司。他这么说 :「当然是快乐的山羊。」

BRIN D’AMOUR “It’s extremely aromatic, yet you have a pure sheep milk taste. It’s from Corsica, where it’s very clean, very beautiful and natural.” 「它的香气非常浓郁，你能尝到羊奶最纯粹的口味。这种起司来自清净、美

BRILLAT-SAVARIN

丽而自然的科西嘉岛。」

“There are only three farms left in Burgundy that make cheese this way. It has the texture of ice cream and it sticks on your palate. It’s not too strong – I always serve it first, even though it’s cow’s milk cheese, because it’s mild, not overpowering.” 「勃根地只剩下三座农场用这种方式制作起司。它冰淇淋般的口感一定能抓住你的味蕾。这种起司口味不太浓烈，我通常一开始就会把它端上桌。虽然它是牛奶制成的，但口感温和不抢味。」

PAVÉ DE LA GINESTARIÉ “Goat cheese always gives you back the life that the goat is living. If the goats aren’t happy, if there’s a problem in their diet, you can taste it right away. Goat milk never lies, that’s why I love it so much.” 「羊奶起司总是能反映羊只的生活，如果它们过得不快乐，或饮食有问题，你马上就能尝出来。羊奶从不说谎，这也是我钟爱它的原因。」

TK | FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS

FOURME D’AMBERT “It’s different because it’s actually pasteurized, unlike most of the cheeses I serve. I only work with two blue cheeses here – this is one of my favorites because it’s so well balanced, with a salty kick.” 「它跟我端上桌的其他起司很不一样，是用巴氏灭菌法处理的。我只制造两种蓝纹起司 , 它的口味适中又带点咸劲儿，是我的最爱之一。」

COMTÉ, FOUR-YEAR-OLD “ I t ’s a g e d i n a m i l i t a r y fo r t i n t h e J u ra Mountains, and the fort has a cave underneath full of water. It’s that process that allows the natural crystals to form.” 「它在侏罗山上的碉堡中静置熟成，碉堡地下的洞穴拥有充沛水源，这个过程促成那些自然的

DAVID HARTUNG

结晶。」

FRENCH HEAVYWEIGHTS | TK |

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美食之秋

fall seasoning Vida Rica’s offerings are right on schedule for autumn.

A CHANGE OF SEASON calls for a change of menu, and Dominique

Bugnand, Director of Culinary Operations and Food and Beverage at Mandarin Oriental, Macau, has been admirably answering the call with a range of new fall dishes at Vida Rica Restaurant. Gathering fresh seasonal produce and an assemblage of the world’s most desirable ingredients, Chef Dominique marries the essence of classic French cuisine with a modern epicurean outlook. “I’m always inspired by things that are different ,” he says. “This time I have used a lot of caviar bottarga and squid ink in my dishes – the color black features prominently.” 季节更迭，众家餐厅无不准备推出全新菜单。澳门文华东方酒店厨艺及餐饮总监贝铭乐先生近来兴致勃勃、费心打点旗下「御苑餐厅 (Vida Rica Restaurant)」推出全新秋季菜色。贝铭乐网罗全球新鲜农产及令人垂涎的顶级食材，保留地道法国经典菜色精华，同时将当代奢华元素融入其中，让美味更上一层楼。他强调：「不同的东西让我脑筋动得特别快，这次用了很多地中海乌鱼子及墨鱼汁，今年美食之秋主打黑色系。」

Grilled Atlantic Black Codfish in Seaweed

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

紫菜烤大西洋银雪鱼

A synthesis of French and Japanese influences, Chef Dominique’s black codfish wrapped in seaweed was inspired by childhood holidays at the beach harvesting sea urchins. “The sauce is a French bouillabaisse with bottarga and sea urchins blended through,” he says. “The smell and distinct flavor of the sea give it such depth.” The sweet, creamy sauce is drizzled over the delicate fish that’s been grilled in the oven. Fresh razor clams and citrus fruits perfectly offset the seaweed’s sweetness.

贝铭乐特制的银雪鱼紫菜卷融合法国菜及日本料理，灵感来自总厨小时候在海边捕捞海胆的回忆。他说：「酱汁是由马赛鱼汤与乌鱼子及海胆打匀而成 , 让大海的独特滋味满布口中，完全不落俗套。」雪鱼放烤箱酥烤，出炉后鱼肉细致，点缀甘甜绵密的酱汁再适合不过。紫菜的鲜甜则在新鲜柠味苏格兰圣子衬托下尽展无遗。

french heavyweights

TK |

Frog Legs and Black Garlic Sorbet 田鸡腿配黑蒜雪葩

One of the better known French delicacies, frog legs are traditionally sautéed in butter, garlic, and parsley. Mostly adhering to form, Chef Dominique has crumbed the legs in garlic and parsley, then slowly pan fried them in butter. The exotic note is a sorbet concocted from black garlic. “Black garlic is roasted at a low temperature for weeks,” says Chef Dominique. “The slow sugar breakdown turns the cloves black and takes away that strong pungency.” The resulting sorbet is mild and sweet while still summoning the original clove’s depth of flavor. “I love using black garlic,” says Chef Dominique. “It’s so uncommon and unexpected.”

TK | french heavyweights

田鸡腿大餐也是广为人知的法国菜之一，依照传统作法，田鸡腿以奶油、大蒜及巴西里慢煎，贝总厨谨守古法，将田鸡腿裹上大蒜及巴西里后，放进奶油提香的平底锅慢煎，神来一笔之处在于总厨特制的特色黑蒜雪葩。他解释：「黑蒜连续数周低温烘烤，蒜瓣因糖份分解变黑，呛鼻味道也随之消散。」黑蒜雪葩口感温和带着甜味，同时带出大蒜原本深层的滋味，让总厨爱不释手：「我爱用黑蒜，就是那么独树一格，带来意料之外的惊喜。」

presented by mandarin oriental, macau

Tasmanian Salmon Confit with Savora Mayonnaise 油封塔斯曼尼亚三文鱼佐 Savora 芥末 Chef Dominique gives the classic French salmon confit a fresh slant with splashes of color and an unexpected presentation. Cooked slowly at a very low heat, the salmon retains its moisture and color, leaving soft, delicate pink-hued flesh that melts in the mouth. A dollop of caviar bottarga adds saltiness, and the complex French Savora mustard infuses a mild sweetness. Chef Dominique finishes the dish with squid ink tuile and sauce. “I think the black adds a great contrast against the yellow and pink.” 经典法式料理油封三文鱼到了贝总厨手中变得色彩纷陈，加上巧妙摆盘，让人耳目一新。三文鱼以低温慢煮，湿润口感及原色丝毫没有跑掉，软嫩、细致的红粉鱼肉入口即化。放上乌鱼子添加咸味，和着层次丰富的法国 Savora 芥末酱带来的淡淡香甜，好滋味不言可喻，最后再加上墨鱼汁特制薄片及酱汁便大功告成。贝总厨表示：「黑色对比黄色及粉红极为鲜明，让人印象深刻。」

Choc Raspberry Dessert 浓朱古力慕丝配红桑子雪葩

Chef Dominique believes chocolate with raspberry is one of the more successful flavor combinations, but admits it can be quite difficult to coax much taste from the berries. “Raspberries are very, very seasonal,” he says. “If they are not harvested at their absolute peak, the flavors are lost.” His sorbet, made from nothing more than pure raspberry coulis and lemon juice, packs the required flavor punch. Glistening atop a crunchy hazelnut biscuit and dark mousse made from Valrhona chocolate, it looks dramatically decadent. “The raspberries keep it light and not too sweet – the perfect balance to end a meal,” says Chef Dominique. 贝铭乐眼中，朱古力搭配红桑子，风味不同凡响，但要导出红桑子的味道可非易事。他分析：「红桑子是很季节性的食材，不在盛产期最佳时节摘采，就吃不到那种特殊风味。」

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总厨用红桑子泥及柠檬汁制作雪葩，散发浓浓红桑子香味，再置于酥脆的榛子脆饼及

Valrhona 朱古力慕丝之上，完全是让人无法抗拒的甜点。对此自信之作贝铭乐强调：「红桑子吃来清爽不会过甜，正好为秋季套餐划下完美的句点。」

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眼界决定世界

big man in the house Harlan Goldstein’s infectious energy animates his restaurant empire. Always thinking big, he manages four restaurants in Hong Kong by focusing on every little detail.

“PEOPLE THINK I’M A CHEF,” says Hong Kong

restaurateur Harlan Goldstein. “But I’m not just a chef. I am an entrepreneur.” Goldstein is standing in Penthouse, Causeway Bay’s newest fine dining cathedral, a golden 6,800 square foot space on the 30th floor of Midtown Soundwill Plaza II. The imposing restaurateur sits at a long wooden table, his back to the bright afternoon panorama of snaking elevated highways, tall towers, and the hazy harbor and hills beyond. Penthouse is one of Goldstein’s two new ventures in Midtown-Soundwill; the other is Sushi To. In all his restaurants, Goldstein manages every detail BY with an exacting MADELINE GRESSEL eye. “I know how to design a menu, decPHOTOGRAPHY BY orate, administrate, DAVID HARTUNG budget, make cocktails and wine lists, and teach,” says Goldstein. “Most chefs have no business etiquette at all. Zero. I’m very hands-on.” Goldstein speaks with a voluble confidence that lends a certain theatricality to his stories. Undoubtedly, his indefatigability has led him to these great heights. Goldstein currently owns and runs four restaurants across Hong Kong Island: Gold, Comfort, Penthouse, and Sushi To. But the prolific restaurateur has cycled through ten restaurants in the past ten

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Goldstein’s personal touch extends to training in the kitchen. 连厨房培训也深受Goldstein独特性情的影响。

years, accumulating considerable amounts of controversy and loyalty in equal measure. Goldstein has grown and changed alongside Hong Kong’s culinary scene, from the lawns of private clubs to the malls of Central and now the snazzy new towers of Causeway Bay. Goldstein, a native New Yorker, began his career in Asia twenty years ago in Beijing at Shangri-La’s China World Hotel. He spent a stint in Bangkok, too, before a lifechanging invitation arrived, from no less than Malaysian sugar mogul and ShangriLa tycoon Robert Kuok, to oversee the seven restaurants at Hong Kong’s exclusive Aberdeen Marina Club. “My first reaction was, I hate Hong Kong – too fast, the people are rude,” remembers Goldstein. But he visited the club at Kuok’s

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urging. “I saw 400 yachts, all wood, each worth over a million, two million US dollars. A parking lot full of Lamborghinis, Ferraris, Rolls Royces. My eyes lit up. I thought, this is my place: seven restaurants to express my talent. Kuok gave me carte blanche and I attacked.” “The members loved me,” says Goldstein. He soon went by the moniker The Man Who Cooks for the Rich and Famous. “With all that wealth, I guess I was. I ended up in their houses on the Peak, in their yachts, in their private jets. It was a hell of an experience.” But Goldstein dreamed of his own empire. Finally, in 2004, Kuok offered him a space in Hong Kong’s brand new IFC mall. “I didn’t sleep at all that night,” says Goldstein. “Someone match-made me with a Chinese

partner, and before I knew it, I was resigning from the club after ten years.” The mall-as-social-hub was a new model in Hong Kong. Until then, Hong Kong’s elite had limited their wining and dining to clubs, five-star hotels, and the quiet lanes of Soho. “Everyone told me Central wouldn’t work.” Even his mentor, the Chairman of Aberdeen Marina Club, naysayed the idea, warning Goldstein that no one would dine in a mall. “There are 88 stories of financial whiz-kids four minutes from that restaurant, and seventy percent of them are Aberdeen Marina Club Members,” Goldstein told him. Harlan’s was born. “I don’t want to blow my own trumpet, but the place was packed. Day or night, you couldn’t get a booking. The chairman called three months later for

Spanish Farm-Raised Blue-Fin Tuna Tartare, Slow-Cooked Egg and Creamy Tuna Sauce 西班牙养殖蓝鳍金枪鱼他他配温泉蛋和忌廉吞拿鱼酱

香港餐饮大师 Harlan Goldstein 说：「人们总认为我是个厨师，但我除了厨师这个身分，也是位创业家。」Goldstein 笔直站在 Penthouse －铜锣湾全新顶级的美食殿堂内，这座位于金朝阳中心二期的第三十层高楼，占地足足有 6,800 平方英尺。而这位气宇非凡的餐饮大师接着坐在长木桌边，身后辽阔视野展示着蜿蜒的高速公路、耸立的大厦及远方朦胧的群山海港。 Penthouse 是 Goldstein 于金朝阳中心设立的两个新合资企业之一，另一个则是 Sushi To。他以审慎、严格的态度把关旗下餐厅的每个细节。 Goldstien 说道：「我知道如何设计菜单、装潢、管理、控制预算、设计调酒及葡萄酒单，也懂得指导他人。大部分的厨师完全没有生意概念，所以我向来是亲力亲为。」Goldstein 言谈之间充满自信，也为他的传奇故事增加不少张力。

这样不屈不挠的性格，也为他奠定了在餐饮界不朽的地位。 Goldstein 在香港拥有四家餐厅，Gold、 Comfort、Penthouse 及 Sushi To 并统筹管理。很难想像，这位拥有雄厚资产的餐饮大师，过去十年间经历十家餐厅的洗礼磨练，制造了不少争议话题，可在这过程中亦得到许多人的忠诚支持。 Goldstein 与时俱进，和香港餐饮产业共同成长蜕变，从私人俱乐部草地至中环商场，一路延伸至现今位于铜锣湾的崭新时尚大楼。 Goldstein 是道地的纽约客，二十年前来到亚洲发展事业，最早任职于香格里拉集团管理的北京中国大饭店，也在曼谷待了一段时间。 Goldstein 事业及人生的转捩点起始于郭鹤年，他是马来西亚的糖业龙头，也是香格里拉酒店集团大亨，当时对 Goldstien 提出负责监督香港私人深湾游艇

俱乐部旗下七家餐厅的提案。 Goldstein 回忆着说：「我一开始对香港的观感很不以为然，这地方的一切都太快了，人们也不是很友善。」但当他在郭鹤年的积极促请下来到俱乐部时：「当时看到 400 艘实木打造的游艇，每艘少说也值一百万、甚至超过两百万美金。停车场充斥着蓝宝坚尼、法拉利、劳斯莱斯。我眼睛为之一亮，当时心想，这就是我所要的，管理七家餐厅让我能一展长才。郭鹤年的充分授权，给我极大的空间，而我也尽其所能地发挥。」很快的 Goldstein 就有了「上流人士的专业料理大厨」这个称号。他说：「会员们都很喜欢我。他们既身为权贵人士，为他们料理的我，这个名号我应该是实至名归吧 ! 后来我经常进出他们的山顶别墅、游艇、私人专机，那是难以言喻的经历。」 french heavyweights

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Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio, Avocado, Aji Panca, Passionfruit and Crispy Rice 北海道带子刺身，配牛油果，秘鲁Aji Panca辣椒，百香果和脆米

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Goldstein amps up his team. Goldstein总能调动起团队的情绪。

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The big man motivates: “I want you to be the best chef in Hong Kong!” Goldstein 不断激励着员工：「我要你们能成为香港最优秀的厨师！」

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Vanilla Nitrogen, Chocolate Wafers, Praline and Crispy Walnuts 液态氮冰淇淋配云呢拿浆，巧克力威化，果仁糖和脆核桃

a booking because he couldn’t get one. My biggest satisfaction and reward was telling him, ‘My dear master and mentor, I have paid back my investment. You told me it wouldn’t work.’ He had a big smile on his face.” Within three years, Goldstein had three new restaurants. But great success came with great complications. In 2008, Goldstein and his partner underwent a major falling-out and an acrimonious legal battle. Goldstein lost ownership of the Harlan’s name. “I said, if you think I’m that famous and you want my name, keep it. And I’ll reappear stronger than ever. And I did.” Goldstein attributes his success to his idiosyncratic personal touch. He allegedly communicates with 3,500 of his customers regularly over Whatsapp. He trains and oversees his entire staff, nursing them on repeat plays of his signature motivational songs: “Eye of the Tiger,” “We are the Champions” and “Simply the Best.” On Vimeo, Goldstein posts handheld videos of himself amping up the team. “Big man in the house, get ready!” he yells at his kitchen staff in one promo for Comfort. “I want you to be the best chef in Hong Kong! I love you baby!” “There is a very high level of mutual respect and a willingness to go the extra mile because I’m a strong motivator. I’m encouraging and extremely attentive to detail. I want to train an entire generation to be unbelievable. The whole team is local – to get local people to jump up and down and go crazy, it’s not easy. I energize them so much that they go nuts! Their commitment, the drive, the energy and efficiency are amazing.” Goldstein is not a man of restraint. His tastes and his personality are big, like his stature. His menus are rich and flavorful. His passion too, is palpable, unbridled. “As we continue on this journey in the culinary world of Hong Kong, we have a lot of customers and we want to stay cutting edge,” he says. “But do we need to boast and have big egos? No. Let’s just give them the best of the best.”

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但 Goldstein 梦想着打造属于自己的事业版图，终于在 2004 年，郭鹤年问 Goldsten 是否考虑转战当时全新的香港国际金融中心商场。Goldstien 忆及当时情形：「我整晚无法入眠。之后有人问我有无意愿和一位中国人合伙，我马上答应，毅然决然离开待了十年的私人俱乐部。」商场形态的社交中心对当时的香港来说是全新的概念，那时期的精英人士，社交用餐多集中在俱乐部、五星级饭店及苏豪区一带。「每个人都跟我说中环没指望。」就连 Goldstein 的启蒙老师 , 深湾游艇俱乐部总裁也持否定态度 , 告诫他说不会有人想在商场吃饭的。Goldstein 对总裁说 :「离餐厅地点约四分钟的距离就有多达 88 层楼的金融业人士，而其中有百分之七十是深湾游艇俱乐部的会员。」 Harlan 餐厅就此诞生。「不是我在自夸，不过那时餐厅可是每天客满。无论白天或晚上都是一位难求。总裁三个月后致电想透过我订位，嚷着说这餐厅实在是太难有位置了。最让我开心的，就是对着他说，『我亲爱的恩师，我的辛苦投资总算有了回报，而你当时却说这条路是行不通的。』他开心的大笑着。」三年间，Goldstein 开了三家餐厅，然而，伟大成就的背后总是隐含许多挑战。 2008 年，Goldstein 与合作伙伴发生严重争执，并且陷入激烈的司法纠纷。在这场纷争中，Goldstein 失去 Harlan 名称的所有权。他说道：「我当时告诉他们，如果认为我名气有这么大，想要这名号就拿去吧。等我再回来时，一定比这名号更成功、更响亮，而我真的做到了。」 Goldstein 将所有成就归功于个人的奇特风格。据说他会固定和 Whatsapp 里 3,500 个成员联络聊天。他亲自训练并管理所有员工，透过重覆播放个人招牌励志歌曲「Eye of the Tiger」、「We are the Champions」及「Simply the Best」让员工沉浸于充满斗志的工作环境中。Goldstein 也会在网路视频 Vimeo 放上亲自录制好的激励影片。他向厨房员工们信心喊话：「伟大的厨师们，快点准备好！我要你们成为香港最棒的厨师！我爱你们！」 Goldstein 兴奋的说：「我非常坚定且给予员工极大的鼓舞，因此大家相互尊重并且更愿意用心努力的付出。我会适时激

➊

励人心并且谨慎处理每项细节。我的目标是训练出令人为之惊奇、与众不同的团队。团队所有成员皆来自当地居民－想让本地人由衷感到兴奋而跳上跳下，可不容易啊。我能做的就是给予他们源源不绝的动力，让他们自然而然被这氛围感染。于是他们也尽心投入，带出惊人的动力、能量与工作效率。」 Goldstein 从不画地自限。超凡的品味与人格，如同他的身形。设计的菜单多元且富含风味。他对厨房的满腔热情既明确又大胆：「我们会在香港餐饮界继续前进，我们有许多顾客，也会持续引领潮流。我们需要自吹自擂吗？当然不用，唯一要做的就是，将最好的呈现给大家。」

“I want to train an entire generation to be unbelievable. The whole team is local—to get local people to jump up and down and go crazy, it’s not easy. I energize them so much that they go nuts! “

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聚睛焦点

centre stage Chefs at The Teppanroom Grand Hyatt Hong Kong go global on the grill.

caption 或 Kinki Fish Papillote, Porcini Mushrooms, Black Truffle 纸包喜之次，牛肝菌，黑松露

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这边摆筷子，另一边摆其他餐具，香港君悦酒店 The Teppanroom 与众不同的餐桌摆设方式，具体而微地呈现出餐厅的双重性格，既非日式，也非西式，更非融合料理，这是一种创新的铁板烧面貌，网罗全球各地不同风味美食。君悦酒店行政总厨 Marcus Mathyssek 表示：「我们从世界各地搜集各种美味佳肴，然后以铁板烧的方式重新演绎，客人用餐可以选择自己觉得最顺手的餐具，这得看菜式而定。」 The Teppanroom 附设于鹿悦日本餐厅，打着聚光灯的铁板烧桌台时尚雅致，前方设有 16 个座席。虽然铁板桌是这个隐密用餐空间的视觉焦点所在，但在这块桌面上发生的事情才是它真正创新之处。 Mathyssek 指出：「我们把铁板桌当作工具，不同的是使用这项工具的创新方式，没有任何限制，蒸、炒、煮样样来，重点在于厨师的巧思。我们不想跟随其他铁板烧餐厅，供应几乎大同小异的食物。我们的菜式利用当季食材，呈现多元化的国际美食，不全然是法式，也不全然是西班牙式，当下真正好吃才是重点。」在 The Teppanroom 用餐的经验也同样令人耳目一新，这里看不到一般铁板烧餐厅做作的滑稽表演。 The Teppanroom 的厨师不耍弄刀叉铁铲，也不把虾子抛进食客的嘴里，而是将全副精力灌注于食材与真正的厨艺创作。一个典型的例子：纸包近畿鱼佐牛肝菌和黑松露，厨师将整道菜肴

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

CHOPSTICKS ON ONE SIDE,

cutlery on the other – the distinctive table settings at The Teppanroom at Grand Hyatt Hong Kong perfectly epitomize the restaurant’s dual identity. Not Japanese, not Western, and certainly not fusion, it’s an innovative take on teppanyaki that serves up an assortment of global flavors. “We glean great dishes from around the world and reinterpret them on the teppan grill,” says Grand Hyatt Executive Chef Marcus Mathyssek. “People can eat them with whatever utensils they find most comfortable – it really depends on the dish.” Nestled within the Kaetsu Japanese Restaurant, The Teppanroom seats sixteen around a sleek, spotlit teppanyaki grill. Although the teppan table is the focal point of the intimate dining room, the novelty lies in what happens on it. “We use the teppan table simply as a tool,” says Mathyssek. “The difference is in the innovative ways we use that tool. There are no restrictions – we steam, we fry, we cook in foil – the goal is to be creative. We don’t want to follow in the footsteps of other teppanyaki restaurants – the food they serve is more or less the same at all of them. Our dishes express a multitude of international flavors using seasonal ingredients. It’s not exactly French, it’s not exactly Spanish, it’s simply whatever is really good at the moment.”

A3 Wagyu beef sirloin, asparagus, hollandaise, parmesan crisp A3佐贺和牛西冷，露笋，荷兰酱，巴马臣芝士

Flambéed Market Berries, Home Grown Fresh Mint, Mascarpone Cream, Champagne Raspberry Sorbet

Kuruma Prawn, Zuwai Crab Meat, Crispy Kadaifu, Tarako Dip 车海老, 松叶蟹, 脆小麦, 鳕鱼子

火焰什啤梨，玛士卡邦尼芝士，香槟雪葩

A meal at The Teppanroom is also refreshingly free of the stagy antics of a typical teppanyaki restaurant. The chefs don’t juggle utensils or flip pieces of shrimp into diners’ mouths – they direct their energies into genuine creativity with the ingredients. A case in point: Kinki fish with porcini mushrooms and black truffle is prepared en papillote, wrapped in transparent parchment and steamed in rich stock and Champagne. “The Champagne gives it a lovely, subtle flavor,” says Sous Chef Oscar Lau. “It’s a really intriguing process that people enjoy watching.” Other equally inventive dishes include Hokkaido scallops with a carrot and ginger mousseline, and Wagyu beef sirloin served with grilled asparagus and a buttery hollandaise. “We’re all about the food here, not the show,” says Mathyssek. “It’s quite a different experience from what you’ll find anywhere else.” The chefs may eschew tricks, but they’re

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masterful performers nonetheless, exuding the cool confidence necessary when all eyes are upon them. “Cooking in front of guests requires a very special talent,” says M athyssek. “There’s so much pressure. Chefs have to be able to engage with diners while simultaneously concentrating on intricate procedures with multiple ingredients. They have to get everything right the first time! They can’t redo the dish if they make a mistake. The seasoning has to be perfect, the searing must be timed just right. It takes tremendous selfassurance, and technique is everything.” Gleaming refrigerated display shelves from floor to ceiling make a dramatic backdrop for the chefs’ performance. The cases are fully stocked with countless fresh ingredients that are designed to inspire. Chef Oscar gestures toward baskets of brightcolored vegetables and prime cuts of meat. “The idea is that diners can see all these

fresh seasonal products and request a meal using whatever ingredients take their fancy.” This devotion to freshness is the restaurant’s philosophy all the way from market to table. “We emphasize seasonal ingredients,” says Chef Oscar, “but many foods are now available year round. So we are continually seeking out the freshest ones – sourcing the right things from the right places at the right time is very important.” Adventurous guests will be delighted to discover exotic dishes sizzling on the grill, like Middle Eastern inspired lamb loin with baba ganoush or plump spring chicken marinated in Indian spices. But there’s also a parallel menu with more traditional offerings, though Mathyssek insists that none are without their own unique twists. “Some come for what’s familiar and others love to be surprised,” he says. “Our job is to make sure they find exactly what they’re looking for.”

Hokkaido Scallops, Carrot and Ginger Mousseline, Imperial Caviar, Celery Leaves

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北海道帆立贝，金笋，姜汁慕丝，鱼子酱

包裹在透明的烘焙纸中，加入浓高汤和香槟一起蒸煮。副厨 Oscar Lau 说道：「香槟让这道菜多了一种美妙细腻的滋味，整个料理过程十分引人入胜，大家都看得目不转睛。」同样富有创意的菜肴还有北海道干贝佐胡萝卜和生姜薄片，以及神户里脊牛肉配烤芦笋和奶油荷兰酱。Mathyssek 表示：「我们关注的是食物，而不是作秀，带给客人的是截然不同的体验。」即便没有刻意耍花招，厨师的厨艺表演依旧精湛，全场流露沉着自信的神情，一点也不因众人的注目而怯场。Mathyssek 说：「在客人面前烹饪，需要非常特殊的天份，压力非常大，厨师必须抓住客人的目光，同时专注进行多种食材的繁复料理程序。他们必须一次到位！一旦犯错，没有任何重新来过的机会。调味必须完美，火候必须拿捏得恰到好处。这些都需要极大的自信，而技术决定了一切。」闪闪发亮的冷藏展示柜从地面延伸至

天花板，为厨师的精彩表演提供生动的布景。展示柜里满满放着数不清的新鲜食材。厨师 Oscar 对着一篮篮五彩缤纷的蔬菜和各种上等肉块指说：「这是为了让客人可以亲眼看见新鲜的时令产品而摆放出来的，喜欢的可以马上点来料理。」追求新鲜是 The Teppanroom 的宗旨，从市场到餐桌，每个环节都不放过。厨师 Oscar 强调：「我们只用当令食材，但很多食物一年四季都有。因此，我们不断寻找最新鲜的产品，在适当时间到适当地点采购适当材料，这是非常重要的原则。」敢于冒险的客人一定很高兴看见异国料理在铁板上滋滋作响，像是搭配茄泥芝麻酱的中东风味里脊羊肉，或是以印度香料腌制的肥美春鸡。不过 The Teppanroom 也有比较传统的菜单，虽然 Mathyssek 坚称每道菜均有其创新独特之处。「有些客人喜欢熟悉的口味，有些客人喜欢惊喜，我们的任务就是让每位客人都能吃到渴望的好味道。」

Executive Chef Marcus Mathyssek

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presented by galaxy macau

徜徉自然野性风味

take a walk on the wild side Terrazza and Chef Mark Sargeant celebrate the best of the countryside’s fall harvest.

欣逢十一月，澳門銀河 ™ 酒店庭园意大利餐厅趁势推出乡村风味十足的菜单，在星级名厨 Mark Sargeant 匠心独运的打造下，融合当季野味和鲜采野菇，推出独一无二的系列佳肴，充分展现欧洲乡村与澳门的道地风味。与众不同的多道料理，搭配精挑细选的多款餐酒，给予宾客绝佳的味蕾体验。名厨 Sargeant 表示：「以往在我的 Rocksalt 餐厅，也会不时料理当季野味，这回推出的许多套餐都是历久不衰的人气美食，当然有些是专门为这次活动设计的全新菜色。」 Sargeant 来自英格兰肯特郡，入行已有二十多年，他先于米其林星级餐厅 Read’s 磨练厨艺，而后在 1996 年于 Oliver Peyton’s Coast 餐厅工作期间，获得「年度最佳年轻厨师」殊荣。他还曾与知名「地狱厨神」 Gordon Ramsay 共事，担任他创立的米其林星级餐厅 Claridge’s 的主厨；Sargeant 还曾协助 Ramsay 开设三家酒吧，分别是 The Narrow、The Warrington 与 The Devonshire。 Sargeant 说：「我和 Gordon 共事十三年，实在很不容易，但也是一趟很棒的冒险，让我受益匪浅。经过长时间的合作，我的

Pot Roast Pheasant with Woodland Mushrooms, Chestnuts, Brussels Sprouts & Creamed Parsnip 野雉鸡配山林野菇

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DAVID HARTUNG (2)

DURING NOVEMBER, Terrazza Italian Restaurant at Galaxy Macau™ goes wild with a menu inspired by seasonal game and foraged mushrooms. The vision of guest chef Mark Sargeant, this unique collection of dishes embodies authentic flavors from rural Europe to Macau, delighting guests with uncommon and savory selections expertly paired with a variety of wines. “We work extensively with seasonal game at my restaurant, Rocksalt,” says Sargeant. “Many of the dishes we’re doing here are tried and tested favorites, along with a few created just for this event.” Originally from Kent, England, Sargeant began his career more than twenty years ago, first gaining experience at the Michelinstarred Reads before winning Young Chef of the Year in 1996 at Oliver Peyton’s Coast Restaurant. He then went on to work with famed chef Gordon Ramsay, serving as Head Chef of his Michelin-starred, Claridge’s venue. Sargeant was also instrumental

Hare Pie with Roasted Ceps, Jerusalem Artichokes & Bitter Chocolate Sauce 野兔派配巧克力汁

Wild Duck with Brandy-Cured Cherries, Fondant Potato & Braised Red Cabbage 野鸭配白兰地樱桃

DAVID HARTUNG (2)

presented by galaxy macau

in the opening of Ramsay’s three pubs: The Narrow, The Warrington, and The Devonshire. “My thirteen years with Gordon were extremely challenging, but also a brilliant adventure. I learned a great deal about everything,” he says. “It’s impossible to work for someone for that length of time without having the experience influence my cooking style, but I was my own person for seven years running GR at Claridge’s and I definitely formed my own style there.” That recognizable style permeates his own two restaurants, Rocksalt and The Smokehouse, and is steeped into the wild game menu he designed specifically for Terrazza. “My personal cooking style is simple, honest, and nonpretentious,” he says. “For me, when using game you must showcase the ingredient and avoid overshadowing it with fancy garnishes. We have been eating wild food and game since the dawn of time, and personally I think that less is more.” Less is more also refers to Sargeant’s traditional cooking techniques. “I’m not a fan of modern cooking methods such as sous vide when it comes to game,” he says. “For me the old ways are the best. A thoughtfully seasoned, roasted, and rested wild bird is far nicer than one that has been slow cooked at 60 degrees for hours.” The promotional menu, running November 5-28, is available as two, three, or four courses with wine pairing options. Exotic dishes such as red deer bresaola, whole roast grouse, hare pie, pot roast pheasant, wild duck, and whole red mullet are accompanied by complementary seasonal ingredients and flavors such as wild herbs, elderberries, Jerusalem artichokes, woodland mushrooms,

chestnuts, and red cabbage. “I’ve kept the flavor combinations to things I know will work together,” says Sargeant. “When food grows together at the same time of year, it’s meant to work.” “Being a wild product, game can be quite inconsistent in quality and availability, but when you get a perfect pheasant or a beautiful grouse it is a joy to use and cook with. Game has a flavor that you don’t get with farmed meat and as the season is very short it’s a must to make the most of it.”

Cold Valrhona Chocolate and Sea Buckthorn Fondant 法芙娜巧克力沙棘蛋糕

To truly enhance the game dining experience, a perfectly paired wine can turn a great meal into an extraordinary one. “I’m by no means a wine expert, but generally given the fact that game are wild animals and live off the land, they are usually quite strong and full-flavored,” says Sargeant. “With this in mind, the wine usually has to be robust enough to stand up to it without being too overpowering.”

烹饪风格自然而然会受到一定的影响。但我在 GR Claridge’s 餐厅掌厨七年以来，完全可以照自己意思发挥创意，也由此培养出我的个人风格。」 Sargeant 独树一帜的厨艺，在个人经营的 Rocksalt 和 The Smokehouse 两间餐厅历历可见，此回更充分反映于「庭园」的野味菜单上。他说道：「我的烹饪风格就是单纯、诚实、不造作。对我来说，料理野味的时候，必须展现食材本身风味，避免华而不实的装饰。自古以来，我们吃的都是野外捕猎或采集来的食物，我个人信奉少即是多、简单即完美。」「少即是多」也是 Sargeant 向来的烹饪原则。他指出：「烹调野味的时候，我不喜欢现代流行的真空烹调法，反而觉得传统料理方式最适合。一只经过精心调味、烘烤且静置的野禽，滋味远远胜过用 60 度低温烹调好几小时的禽肉。」这份秋季菜单将于十一月五日至二十八日间供应，套餐组合分为两道菜、三道菜与四道菜，均有多种酒款可供选择。其中带有丰富异国风味的菜色，包括风干红鹿肉、炙烤松鸡、野兔派、雉鸡炖肉、野鸭、红鲻鱼等，搭配当季食材加以提味，如野菜、接骨木莓、洋姜、山林野菇、栗子、紫甘蓝等。Sargeant 强调：「我只用自然的食材作搭配，同一时节采收的新鲜食材才能相互衬托。」受野外成长环境的影响，实际可用的肉质部分参差不一，当然如果你找到质量上乘的野雉鸡或松鸡时，烹制和享用过程也是很快乐的。野味有种养殖动物找不到的独有味道，而且使用季节时限短，必须要充分利用。完美配对的葡萄酒绝对可以提升用餐体验，鲜味佳肴会因美酒作伴变得更非凡。 Sargeant 表示 :「我对葡萄酒并不在行 , 但野生动物既然在大自然中生长 , 风味多半浓郁强烈 , 所以搭配的葡萄酒的味道也得浑厚饱满 , 两者才不会互相抢味。」 french heavyweights

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干式熟成牛排飨宴

high steaks Café Bela Vista understands patience is the mother of culinary perfection.

Executive Sous Chef Tan Lee Kiong 助理行政总厨陈利强

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AT CAFÉ BELA VISTA, Grand Lapa Macau’s colonial-style restaurant, the art of beef is celebrated every Wednesday night with a range of masterfully prepared Irish organic dry-aged cuts. “This is about more than simply eating a steak,” says Executive Sous Chef Tan Lee Kiong. “These nights are intended for those diners who love and appreciate the highest quality meats, and know how to enjoy a perfect piece of beef.” Dinner opens with an international-style salad bar featuring an assortment of delectable greens, cold cuts, and condiments. “It’s a very light appetizer to leave room for the highlight of the evening,” says Chef Tan. Those highlights present themselves in six glorious cuts: striploin, ribeye, tenderloin, oyster blade, prime rib, and T-bone, as well as three different weights. “Every order is truly tailor-made for each of our guests.” While organic beef is widely available in Macau, dry-aged beef – with its supreme tenderness and deeper flavors – is not as common because achieving this level of perfection requires much patience. The process is a delicate balance of time, temperature, air circulation, and humidity. “After the meat is hung for the standard two to three weeks, it is then further aged in a cold, dry environment for another twenty-one days,” says Chef Tan. “You can really notice a difference in the taste and texture. It’s simply outstanding.” The preparation of these champion meats also calls for someone wise in the ways of beef. Chef Tan’s secret is to first sear the steak in a very hot pan, then complete the cooking in an oven. Once the cut reaches the desired temperature, Chef Tan rests the meat before serving so the juices rising to the surface can relax back into it. A final sear chars the surface with a deeply caramelized crust. “You have to be patient and careful while preparing a steak,” Tan says. “I always tell my cooks, ‘You must show it love and respect, like when you’re cooking for your wife.’”

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presented by grand lapa

澳门金丽华酒店充满浓浓殖民风格的「荟景阁咖啡室 (Café Bela Vista) 」现正于每周三晚上推出牛排之夜，展现牛肉的奥妙之处，饕客可尽情品尝精心准备的各式爱尔兰干式熟成牛排。助理行政总厨陈利强表示：「这主要想让懂牛排的老饕有机会品尝最高等级的牛排，享用最完美的部位。」牛排飨宴以国际百汇沙拉吧揭开序幕，供应各式美味蔬食、冷盘及佐料。陈利强强调：「开胃菜清淡不占胃，才有空间享用今晚的重头戏－牛排。」牛排有六种精华部位供客人选择，纽约客 ( 前腰脊 )、肋眼、菲力 ( 腰内肉 )、嫩肩肉、牛肋排及丁骨，分量也分成三种。「这是专为每位客人量身打造的牛排飨宴。」有机牛肉在澳门相当普遍，但肉质软嫩、味道丰厚，需要相当时间耐心调理才能臻

于完美的干式熟成牛肉，相形之下显得较为稀有。熟成期内，对于时间、温度、空气流通及湿度均需严格控管。陈师傅进一步解释：「牛肉吊挂二至三周，换到低温干燥的空室静置 21 天继续熟成。」熟成后风味绝佳，让陈师傅赞不绝口：「味道和口感全然不同，真的很棒。」说到此种顶级牛排的预备方式，就得请出懂得箇中奥妙的聪明师傅出场。陈师傅分享料理小秘诀：平底锅预热，高温下先炙烧，后放进烤箱，当牛排达到预期温度，再拿出来放置一会儿，满溢的肉汁才能回到肉里头。最后放回平底锅，两面炙烧至出现焦脆表皮便大功告成。陈师傅再三强调：「烹调牛排要有耐心并小心以待，我常对旗下厨师耳提面命，料理时要投注爱及尊重，就像煮菜给太太吃一样。」

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T-Bone , Prime Rib, Tenderloin T骨牛扒, 牛肋扒, 牛柳

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Chocolate Fondant with Mixed Berries and Vanilla Ice Cream 巧克力心太软配杂莓和云尼拿雪糕

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presented by city of dreams

ACCORDING TO an ancient Chinese proverb, a wise doctor will heal first with food before resorting to more modern medicines. That is what Chef Tam, Executive Chinese Chef at City of Dreams, Macau, takes as his guiding culinary principle. Relying on tonic foods to strengthen the constitution and aid adaption to the changing seasons has always been a venerable part of Chinese culture, especially in the south, and Chef Tam continues the tradition. “Herbal healing soups are a major element of Cantonese cuisine,” says Chef Tam. “The concept is an integral part of our eating habits.” It is also the inspiration behind Chef Tam’s Healing Soup menu, which harnesses the invigorating powers of lotus seeds, barley, cordyceps flower, wolfberry, ginseng, and black fungus. “All these herbs, plants, roots, and leaves grow naturally in the southern and western regions of China,” says Chef Tam. “They each provide various healing functions. Some are good for the liver, others for eyesight or blood circulation. It’s all about understanding the proper combinations.” To create the menu, Chef Tam and his team partnered with a Chinese herbal professional from MUST (Macau University of Science and Technology). “Some herbal soups are very strong and designed for specific ailments, but our soups are mild, nourishing, and safe for everyone to enjoy,” Chef Tam says. “Our goal is to offer preventative measures that maintain and strengthen health rather than treat a serious illness.” Inspired by autumn, the current menu is infused with warming, nurturing elements. Fresh abalone with shiitake mushrooms and wolfberry, pigeon with codonopsis and angelica, and wild duck with Tuckahoe and lily bulb are just three of the healing medleys featured. “Everything is fresh from the market. That’s what you should be eating, fresh and seasonal foods,” says Chef Tam, “all prepared with recipes that have been passed down through generations.” Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung

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行政总厨谭国锋

饮汤妙

the power of soup

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Double-Boiled Dendrobium with Cordyceps Flower Soup 鲜虫草花石斛炖猪腱

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Double-Boiled Fresh Abalone and Pork Stomach Soup with Lotus Seed 鲍鱼莲子炖猪肚汤

 Double-Boiled Silky Fowl Chicken

Vanquish autumn colds with a medicinal soup at Jade Dragon.

Soup with American Ginseng and Black Fungus 花旗参木耳炖竹丝鸡

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中国有句老话说药补不如食补，这是澳门新濠天地的中菜行政总厨谭国锋的料理原则。运用药膳进补以改善体质、帮助身体适应季节变化，一直是中国饮食文化中极重要的传统，尤其是南方文化，而总厨坚持传承这项传统。他说：「养生汤是粤菜的主要元素之一，已成为我们饮食习惯的一部分。」养生概念便是谭师傅的核心灵感来源，养生汤菜单中包含调配得宜的中药食材，有补体益气的效果，如莲子、大麦、石斛、枸杞、人参、黑木耳等。「这些药草和根茎类、叶类的中药材都自然生长于中国西南方，疗效各有不同，有些能养肝，有些具有改善视力或活络筋血的效果，最重要的是必须熟悉药材搭配并掌握得宜。」谭国锋总厨与其专业团队，和来自澳门科技大学的中医药专家合作养生汤菜单，谭国锋表示：「有些药膳汤的药效极为强烈，是专门针对特殊症状所调配，但我们的养生汤都十分温和，老少咸宜，目的是预防疾病，强身健体，而非治疗严重疾病。」因应入秋时节，谭师傅养生汤加强润燥抗寒的功效，包含鲍鱼香菇枸杞汤、纹党当归养血鸽子汤、百合安神水鸭汤等鲜品。谭国锋说：「所有食材都从市场直送，非常新鲜，我们的饮食原则就是要新鲜、顺应时令，依据世代流传的药膳食谱烹调。」 french heavyweights

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presented by starworld hotel

星际闪耀奖誉满堂

Award-winning teamwork is what makes StarWorld Hotel one of Macau’s most memorable dining adventures.

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IF THERE IS ANYTHING BETTER than having your dinner served by an award-winning chef, it can only be having it served by a whole team of culinary stars. The StarWorld Hotel lineup of Executive Chef Joe Chan, Executive Sous Chef Chan Chak Keong, and Bartender Kenneth Abaricia deliciously proves that extraordinary food is more than the mere sum of its ingredients. Extraordinary food happens through that intangible magic derived from the collective efforts of a talented and dedicated team. “I really appreciate the heart these guys have,” beams Chef Joe. “They want to enter every competition, and when they do, they shine.” The accolades continue to accumulate. Bartender Kenneth Abaricia of StarWorld’s Temptations Restaurant was awarded first runner-up at Macau Bartender of the Year

2013, and more recently won honors for Best Sake Cocktail at the HOFEX Allworld Open Cup 2013. His original concoction, A Star for All Seasons, swayed the judges with its modern mix of yogurt liquor, green tea syrup, honeydew melon liquor, and sake. “People think sake is only drunk in shots at Japanese restaurants, but it’s a very versatile spirit that complements so many different ingredients,” says Kenneth. “It is unusual to have it in a cocktail, so people really notice it on the menu.” With twenty-five years experience, Chef Chan is accustomed to winning awards. He earned bronze in the 2011 World Championship of Cookery, and gold in the International Famous Chef Invitational Tournament for Chinese Cuisine 2010. His signature prawns with stuffed egg in black bean sauce won

DAVID HARTUNG (4)

star synergy

 Portuguese Seafood Rice 葡式海鲜饭

 Temptations Executive Chef Joe Chan Bartender Kenneth Abaricia

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Sensations Head Chef Chan Chak Keong 「品味坊」行政总厨陈继祖调酒师 Kenneth Abaricia 「珍味馆」行政主厨陈植强

 Prawns with Stuffed Egg in Black Bean Sauce 百花齐放

 A Star for All Seasons 四季星饮

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gold at the World Master Chef Competition 2012. “It was an honor to be invited and to win,” says Chef Chan. “The recognition has inspired me to continue creating interesting new dishes.” Not to be upstaged, Chef Joe’s Portuguese Seafood Rice was recently named one of “10 must-try Macau foods” by CNN Travel. “It was one of the very first dishes my master chef taught me thirty-some years ago,” he says. “I’ve never changed the recipe. This is as traditional and authentic a Portuguese dish as you will ever find.” The aforementioned calls for a delectable mix of rice, blue mussels, scallops, prawns, Bacalhau, chorizo, tomatoes, and olives. “I knew straightaway that I didn’t need to waste my time altering ingredients and spices,” says Joe. “Why mess with perfection?”

品尝金牌主厨的料理是一大享受，但能品尝由一群厨界巨星烹调的美馔，必是极致飨宴。澳门星际酒店的一流团队包含行政总厨陈继祖、行政主厨陈植强、调酒师 Kenneth Abaricia 等人，他们证明出色的料理不仅是食材的搭配，还需藉由厨师的烹调魔力和专责团队的执行能力。陈继祖表示：「我很感谢团队成员的用心，他们渴望参与每场大赛，而且在过程中发光发热。」星际酒店团队屡获大奖，旗下餐厅品味坊的 Kenneth Abaricia 荣获 2013 年「全球调酒师鸡尾酒大赛－最佳清酒鸡尾酒」。他的原创调酒作品「A Star for All Seasons（四季星饮）」现代感十足，让评审折服，当中混调优格利口酒、绿茶糖水、蜜瓜酒、清酒等材料， Kenneth 表示：「多数人以为清酒只能在日本餐厅小杯啜饮，其实它可做各式变化，且跟许多不同材料搭配都很适合，清酒与鸡尾酒组合极少见，出现在菜单上格外引人注目。」

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行政主厨陈植强在餐厨界具有 25 年经验，也是厨艺比赛常胜军，2011 年香港国际美食大奖获铜奖，2010 年国际中餐名厨邀请赛获金奖，2012 年世界厨王江阴华西争霸赛中，以招牌菜「百花齐放」击败各地高手，夺得中菜类全场总冠军，他说：「能受邀参赛并得奖，是我的荣幸，这份肯定让我创作料理的灵感更为充沛。」行政总厨陈继祖毫不逊色，拿手菜「葡式海鲜饭」获美国 CNN 旅游报导（CNN Travel）评为「澳门不可错过的十大美食」之一，他说：「三十多年前，餐厅大厨指导我烹调这菜，这是我最早学会的料理之一，多年来作法不变，绝对是你尝过最传统道地的葡萄牙料理。」食材有黑淡菜、扇贝、大虾、马介休、西班牙腊肠、蕃茄、橄榄。「目睹食谱我便知晓，无需改动。如此完美组合，多一分则腻，少一分则缺。」 french heavyweights

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Grilled Canadian Lobster 烧烤加拿大龙虾

presented by banyan tree macau

周日好满足

sunday satisfaction The inspired Brunch at Belon will coax you out of bed.

SUNDAY BRUNCH IN MACAU has always been a game of one-upmanship, with countless hotels and resorts competing for diners’ favor through exotic dishes and extravagant displays. Few things appeal more to buffet connoisseurs than the luxury of selecting from an enormous and irresistible array of delights. Belon at Banyan Tree Macau is similarly full of savory surprises. Launched in August, Belon’s menu satisfies the cravings of those with fine taste as well as healthy appetites. The gourmet quality of the offerings astounds, even in a city known for its epicurean indulgences. “Belon is a seafood and grill restaurant, so our brunch reflects that,” says Robby, Chef de Cuisine at Belon. “Our wide selection of top quality seafood, as well as the finest cuts of meat, are all cooked to order because we understand that people like to gather every Sunday to catch up on things while enjoying really good food.” Belon does feature the de rigueur buffet selections of seasonal greens, cold cuts, antipasti, and gourmet salads, each executed to Belon’s exacting standards. Paraded as well are soups of the season and freshly baked farmers bread. All similarities to other buffet brunches end here. “I call this an interactive buffet,” says Chef Robby. “We have the usual self-serve sections, but also live cooking stations with entrées prepared to order, à

在澳门，各家酒店渡假村的周日早午自助餐向来是各出奇招 , 为投顾客所好，纷纷端出异国美馔及豪华菜色，百家争鸣。不过对于爱自助餐的行家来说，能够徜徉各式令人食指大动的美食，随心所欲取用，也真可谓人生夫复何求了。悦榕庄「贝隆」餐厅的周日早午自助美馔同样献上众多的美味惊喜，八月开幕没多久，精心设计的菜单，旋即打中喜爱精致及健康美食饕客的心。尽管在以嗜乐，享受出名的美食之都澳门，「贝隆」质精味美的菜色依旧令人惊艳不已。「贝隆」餐厅厨师长石志云 (Robby) 表示：「贝隆餐厅以海鲜及烧烤著称，早午餐通通吃得到。空运的高品质海鲜以及随点烹调的顶级肉类，应有尽有，让好朋友们在周日能聚在一起分享近况，一边享用美味餐点。」美食自助餐该有的「贝隆」都吃得到，包括季节时蔬、冷盘以及老饕沙拉，样样都是餐厅的水准之作，同时也供应季节浓汤及现烤出炉的农夫面包。以上或许和其他餐厅大同小异，不过接下来开始可就是「贝隆」的独到之处了。厨师长信心满满强调道：「我们是互动型的自助餐，有自助区也有现点现做的烧烤菜式，新鲜菜色由客人挑选，港式点心套餐现点现做并盛在不锈钢篮，还有桌边推车服务，想得到的都有。」早午餐也提供鲜榨果汁、气泡酒及红白酒，或是加 100 澳门币享用香槟无限畅饮，尽情享受欢乐时光。石师傅精心准备的海鲜及肉类飨宴包括生鲜生蚝、波士顿龙虾、老虎虾、雪蟹

Fresh Sorbet prepared à la minute using liquid nitrogen 以超低温冻结而成的现制雪芭

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presented by banyan tree macau

la carte dim sum, freshly prepared and delivered in stainless steel baskets, and table-side trolley service.” Free flowing juice, sparkling red and white wines―or Champagne for an additional MOP100 – enhance the convivial atmosphere.

Chef Robby’s Seafood and Meat Fiesta is a cornucopia of live shucked oysters, Boston lobster, tiger prawns, snow crab legs, and periwinkles. Fresh jade clams, whole mackerel, baked grouper, and ocean trout round out the hot seafood offerings. The surf-and-turf

Chef de Cuisine Robby 厨师长石志云

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crowd will appreciate the selections of Australian grilled lamb, US beef rib eye, and grilled Boston lobster, all cooked à la minute. Further carnivore cravings are fulfilled by a carving station featuring Kurobuta pork rack and Canadian beef short rib, both accompanied by pan-seared foie gras. “Because we focus less on the buffet and insist on cooking to order, we’re able to elevate the brunch experience for our guests,” Robby says. To complete the lavish seafood selection, a trolley laden with Golden Oscietra caviar winds its way through the dining room. Robby offers dollops of the delicacy―coveted for its large golden grains that deliver an earthy, nutty flavor―on some of his signature creations, including panna cotta, potato blinis, and crab salad. “This is a very special caviar,” says Robby. “In the past, it had been reserved for royalty only, but I want everyone to enjoy it.” While Belon does not otherwise cater to children, they are more than welcome at Sunday brunch. A private room provides a dedicated area for little ones who are entertained with clowns, toys, games, coloring books, and cartoons. “Sunday brunch is all about family,” says Chef Robby. “This lets the kids be part of things, but also allows parents to enjoy their meals while the children are kept happy.” A special menu provides kid-friendly choices, but youngsters with sophisticated palates are free to indulge in grown-up gourmet dishes. Lastly, for guests wise enough to save room for dessert, Belon seduces with sweet sensations such as lemon tart, coffee crème brûlée, chocolate velvet, strawberry shortcake, and blueberry cheesecake. Liquid nitrogen sorbet completes the meal with added showmanship. “This is the coolest dessert,” says Robby. “We use fresh juice – mango, strawberry, kiwi, or guava – and whisk it with liquid nitrogen. At minus 160°, it flash-freezes in just a minute or two, and it’s all prepared right at the table.”

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Merlot Braised Canadian Beef Short Rib 红烧加拿大牛仔骨

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Exotic Fruits with Kiwi Sorbet 热带水果与奇异果雪芭

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Signature Golden Oscietra Caviar Delight 黄金级奥赛佳鱼子酱料理

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脚以及海螺；热炒海鲜区备有新鲜玉蚌、青花全鱼、炙烤石班及深海鳟鱼等精选料理可供自由选取。海陆区有深受饕客喜爱的澳洲烤羊排、美国肋眼牛排及烤波士顿龙虾，现做现出菜；现切区供应极上乘的黑毛猪肋骨与红烧加拿大牛仔骨佐炙烤鹅肝，无肉不欢的食客，可千万不要错过。石师傅进一步说明：「和自助区相比，我们在现点烹调站投注了更多心力，希望能为顾客提供更贴心的用餐体验。」此时推车进入用餐区，满载最黄金级的奥赛佳鱼子酱，让豪华海鲜阵容更声势浩大。石师傅舀了匙鱼子酱，粒粒分明圆亮、

闪耀金黄光芒，原始浓厚的味道在嘴里化开，和奶酪、马铃薯饼及蟹肉沙拉等厨师长特制料理搭配的天衣无缝。厨师长也是满口盛赞：「奥赛佳鱼子酱非常特别，过去作为进贡王室之用，但我希望让每个人都能一尝这种美味。」「贝隆」平时并无专为儿童准备的餐点，不过小朋友来吃早午餐，绝对可以尽兴而归。小客人们可以在游乐间与小丑同乐、玩玩具，看图画书或卡通。石师傅表示：「周日早午餐是家人同欢的时间，小朋友可以开心地在游乐间玩耍，父母也能自在享用美食。」餐厅也特别准备

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儿童早午餐，不过对于味觉敏锐的小饕客来说，大人们的美味料理也是不容错过的。餐点最后，对于刻意留点肚子装甜点的客人们，「贝隆」也绝对不会让他们失望，柠檬塔、咖啡焦糖布丁、巧克力丝绒蛋糕、草莓酥饼及蓝莓起司蛋糕，个个都是让甜点迷尖叫的精美糕点。这时候再来点炫技意味十足的液态氮分子雪芭，为早午餐划下最完美的句点。石师傅兴奋表示：「这道甜点真的超酷，把芒果、草莓、奇异果及芭乐综合鲜果汁和液态氮打在一起，零下 160 度之下一两分钟急速冷冻。我们直接在桌边制作，客人无不惊呼连连，效果奇佳。」 french heavyweights

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presented by the park lane hotel

风火交响曲

fire & air The primal excitement of food roasting over open flames meets the refinement of spectacular urban surroundings at The Park Lane Hotel’s new Rooftop Garden.

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HONG KONG HAS TWO ADVANTAGES that should render it a world famous locale for al fresco dining: mild weather and an abundance of airy rooftops with dazzling views of skyline, mountains, and sea. Yet for reasons unknown, true open-air dining experiences are a rarity, which is why the launching of the Rooftop Garden at The Park Lane Hotel in Causeway Bay is cause for rejoicing. The terrace itself, with its soft green walls and warm wood flooring, creates a spacious atmosphere that’s further amplified by an infinity water feature reflecting the dizzying stretch of skyscrapers lining Victoria Harbor. The clever design by architect Lorraine Reimann is organic and fluid, offering plenty of space to breathe and take in the view, yet allowing diners the privacy of cozy nooks and sheltered spaces.

All that’s needed to complete the picture are dishes as elevated as the environment. Previously that meant ducking inside for a meal and foregoing the excellent view. The Park Lane Hotel’s Executive Chef, HeinzJörg Funoff, a man with an unerring intuition for what his customers really want, has found the solution. While he freely admits that he’s “not originally a barbecue chef,” Funoff maintains that producing the highest quality barbecue cuisine simply requires the application of principles heeded everywhere else in the kitchen: “Essentially it’s the same. You need to focus on the products that you use. If you have the right ingredients, everything falls into place.” He goes on to explain: “So much cooking nowadays is about being absolutely precise – poach for five minutes, sear for

香港素来以绝佳的户外用餐体验闻名，主要归因于两项优势：温和的天候，以及为数不少的露天屋顶，能让客人一览炫目的天际线与远山大海。但不知何故，真正的露天用餐体验少之又少，因此香港柏宁酒店的空中天台花园一推出，即获得众饕客欢呼喝彩。柔绿墙面与温暖的木质地板，营造出露台宽阔的氛围。一旁源源不绝的流水，映照着维多利亚港琳琅满目的高楼大厦。建筑师 Lorraine Reimann 的设计独具巧思，传达自然有机与流动的概念，让客人可以好好深呼吸、饱览美景，同时又可窝在自己的小天地，享受不被打扰的清闲。如此美景当前，当然得有佳肴相陪。以前客人想用餐都得回到室内，不得不抛弃炫丽景色。如今香港柏宁酒店行政总厨范翰斯（Heinz-Jörg Funoff）精准掌握客人的真正需求，找到两全其美的解决之道。总厨范翰斯认为要端出最高品质的烤

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肉料理，必须坚守同一套原则：「烹调原则基本上一样，你得专注于手边的食材，只要食材对了，其他就水到渠成。」范总厨表示：「时下的烹饪太讲究绝对精确，比如一定要水煮五分钟、干煎七分钟、再水煮四分半等等。这样当然可以做出鲜嫩美味的食物，但我觉得有个大缺点，就是多少会牺牲食材原本的风味。如果是烤肉的话，有热度、有大火、更有烟雾，非常刺激！少了吹毛求疵，多了原始风味。」而菜单上最令人惊艳的料理莫过于战斧牛排（tomahawk steak），一大片厚实的顶级美国牛肉，让人体验啃食的原始快感；较不爱吃肉的宾客，可以选择主厨推荐的波士顿龙虾，或是生鱼片等级的现烤蓝虾（obsiblue prawn）。范翰斯指出：「火烤过程中，步骤不容易出错，但我个人不喜欢肉腌太久，毕竟应该要顾虑肉的原味与质地。而且既然是高级食材，通常不需太多调味，一点盐、

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Sashimi-grade obsiblue prawns on the grill 生鱼片等级的现烤蓝虾

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When it comes to barbecuing, Chef Heinz-Jörg favours character over precision 总厨范翰斯正为烤虾调味

 The famous Tomahawk steak

with cherry tomatoes and garlic 战斧牛排佐樱桃番茄和香蒜

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Grilled Obsiblue prawn and foie gras with red onion marmalade, green pea and mild Madras curry emulsion

烤鹅肝和蓝虾佐红洋葱果酱，豌豆和马德拉斯咖喱泡沬

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Grilled US Prime Beef Sirloin Variations of Shiitake Mushrooms & Celery Black Truffle Jus 烤美国特级西冷牛排

presented by the park lane hotel

seven minutes, poach again for four and a half minutes, etc. While this obviously produces lovely, tender food, for me there is a downside – you can lose some of the character of the ingredients. With barbecue you have heat, you have flames, you have smoke. It’s exciting! What you sacrifice in fussy precision you gain in elemental character.” The menu’s showstopper is undoubtedly the tomahawk steak, a massive slab of prime US beef that is positively cavemanesque. Less carnivorous al fresco patrons might prefer the chef ’s own favorite, Boston lobster, or the sashimi-grade grilled obsiblue prawns. “With barbecuing, it’s hard to go wrong,” he says. “But one thing I don’t like is overmarinating. You need to respect the flavor and texture of the meat. With high quality products you don’t need to add a lot. A little salt, pepper, some olive oil, should be enough. Maybe some herbs like rosemary and thyme. Lemon for seafood. That’s it, that’s all you need.” There’s something about barbecuing that evokes a nationalist spirit. Seemingly laid-back Australians may suddenly start a heated debate with Brazilians over the merits of marinades; Americans may assume that their natural exceptionalism extends to the stewardship of the grill. Chef Heinz-Jörg, a German, has wisely chosen to stay above the fray by featuring a guest chef from the country that invented the word: South Africa. The Afrikaans term for barbeque, braaivleis, is believed to be the origin of our modern one. Thus, Chef Arnold Tanzer – of MasterChef South Africa fame – will be in charge for one evening, November 8, firing up such South African delights as peri-peri prawns, boerewors, ostrich, chakalaka, koeksisters, and more. To complete the experience, the special menu will feature wines from the award-winning Bellingham winery near Capetown. In the meantime, the Rooftop Garden at The Park Lane Hotel beckons. Fire, air, and good food – who could ask for more?

Executive Chef Heinz-Jörg Funoff 总厨范翰斯

Grilled Line Caught Turbot, Serrano Ham, Roasted Artichokes, Pickled Onion, Watercress Salad, Red Wine Sauce 烤鲜多宝鱼扒佐塞拉诺火腿，烤洋蓟，腌洋葱和豆瓣菜沙拉

胡椒、橄榄油就够了，顶多再撒些迷迭香和百里香，海鲜上头挤点柠檬就可以了。」说到烤肉这件事，多少会唤起许多人的民族情操。看似随性的澳洲人，可能忽然会因为腌酱的优缺点，就和巴西人争论不休；美国人也可能自以为对烤肉方式了若指掌。德籍的范总厨则选择不淌浑水，邀请来自南非的客席厨师；据信现今使用的「barbeque」一字，正是源自南非语的「braaivleis」。因此，美食竞赛节目「厨神

当道」南非版（MasterChef South Africa）里头的厨师 Arnold Tanzer 将于 11 月 8 日于香港柏宁酒店掌厨，亲自为食客烧烤烹制众多南非佳肴，包括仙女虾、南非香肠（boerewors）、鸵鸟肉、沙卡拉卡（chakalaka）、蜜煎饼（koeksisters）等等。如此别出心裁的菜色，搭配的精选酒款是来自屡获大奖肯定的贝林翰酒庄，让用餐体验完美落幕。香港柏宁酒店的空中天台花园正向你招手，烈焰、微风与美食当前，夫复何求？ french heavyweights

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presented by silver fern farms

旅客来到纽西兰南部湖区的瓦卡蒂波湖，最难忘的旅程回忆应属第一次见到高耸辽阔的非凡山脉（The Remarkables）那一刻。非凡农场（The Remarkables Station）便藏身于此，这是银蕨农场旗下 1,500 个合作牧场之一，由 Dick Jardine 和 Jill Jardine 夫妇经营，他们是家族农场第三代的经营者。

Jardine 夫妇于此处的绿草原野上经营牧场，产出极富盛名的银蕨农场鹿肉，堪称最健康的红肉。银蕨农场的南岛鹿群调度员 Rusty 「银蕨农场鹿肉非常天然， Andrews 表示：肉质紧实，富含铁质和蛋白质，可以说兼

纯净野牧好味道

备多种益处。」野鹿肉的口感有时较硬，且带有腥味，

farmed for flavor

但是草原放养的野鹿，不仅肉质软嫩，且口感细致，深受厨师好评。银蕨农场的鹿肉产自与世隔绝的纯净草原，此外，土生土长的牧场主人深知当地土地特性，因而能孕育出具有独特风味的鹿肉，且全年皆可供应，不仅限于传统的冬季猎鹿时节 — 这点也是深获厨师青睐的原因。「在这里你得学 Rusty Andrews 说：会跟自然和谐相处，而非采蛮力驾驭自然，在这种环境里生长，鹿群当然健壮有活力。」

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In New Zealand, Silver Fern Farms free-range Venison graze on pristine landscapes, producing a subtle and tender venison esteemed around the globe. Dick Jardine, who owns The Remarkables Station with his wife, Jill.

DAVID HARTUNG (3)

FOR VISITORS TO LAKE WAKATIPU in New Zealand’s southern lakes region, nothing is more memorable than their first glimpse of the towering, iconic range of mountains known as The Remarkables. Here third-generation farmers Dick and Jill Jardine oversee their ranch, The Remarkables Station, which is part of the Silver Fern Farms cooperative of 1500 venison partners. The couple rears coveted Silver Fern Farms Venison that graze on grass across green pastures, helping make venison the healthiest red meat available. “Silver Fern Farms Venison is natural, lean, and high in iron and protein,” says Rusty Andrews, South Island Deer Coordinator for Silver Fern Farms. “Venison ticks all the boxes.” Because wild venison can be tough and gamey, chefs prize the tender texture and delicate taste of pasture-raised venison. Silver Fern Farms Venison is born and bred in some of the world’s most isolated pastures, and owes its unique character to the farmers who’ve grown up with an innate understanding of their land. It is also available year round, unlike traditional winter game – an attribute that chefs champion. “Down here, you’ve got to work in harmony with nature rather than trying to force it to do what you want,” says Rusty. “And in this kind of environment deer absolutely thrive.”

John Saunders, Farm Manager of The Remarkables Station with his Huntaway

FARM-RAISED VENISON AT ITS VERY BEST Silver Fern Farms takes the highest care to ensure its New Zealand farm-raised Venison is the very best it can be. It is raised as nature intended on the open, green pastures of approximately 1,500 New Zealand free-range venison farms. Farm-raised venison has developed an enviable reputation around the world as a great delicacy. It is very different to wild venison – always consistent and never tough or gamey. Naturally lean, tender and nutritious, farm-raised venison from New Zealand is a safe and healthy meat choice.

FARMED FREE-RANGE IN NEW ZEALAND www.silverfernfarms.com

By Greg Piner of Pier 24 – Chargrilled Silver Fern Farms’ Cervena venison loin, green peppercorn and sage pesto, leek and black pudding tart, glazed beetroot and blood-orange jus.

New Zealand

VENISON

延续生机之道

vine vitality THE LIFESPAN OF VINEYARDS – 60 to 70 years – is nearly the same as that of humans. And just as with people, conscientious care is required to ensure a long and healthy life. Vintners are now rushing to play catch-up in caring for the delicate ecosystems that support their grapes. Around the world winegrowers are turning to economically viable practices that promote sustainability and protect the air, water, and soil that give life to their grapes and flavor to their wines. Chemical pesticides and fertilizers have long been part of commercial viticulture, but they are no longer considered welcome solutions. Growers themselves are the keenest observers of the insidious ways freshness and flavor can be damaged by the very chemicals ostensibly meant to protect them. Today’s sophisticated growers employ gentler measures, optimistic that nature’s own weed, disease, and insect deterrents are the most effective means to achieve plentiful harvests and exceptional wines. The Austrian Wine Growers’ Association

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has taken up the ecological banner and developed a certification system to help local growers produce wine sustainably. This online tool, an elegant utilization of today’s technology to evaluate techniques rooted in the past, allows winemakers to assess their own efforts. “The sustainability project is not a marketing stunt,” says Johannes Schmuckenschlager, President of the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association. “It’s important for us to take the lead and make known to consumers our progress in this area now, before the issues are raised from outside our ranks.” A vintner pursuing sustainability faces a daunting challenge that requires an examination of every aspect of the winemaking process – soil fertility, water pollution, soil erosion, pesticide use – each ultimately influencing the taste of the wine. “Other countries have been very active in these areas for many years,” says Josef Glatt, Managing Director of the Austrian Winegrowers’ Association. “And Austria is destined to take an active role, especially in light of the

country’s record of accomplishment in soil and plant protection.” First, a panel of experts was assembled to set quality objectives for a range of sustainability issues. Detailed criteria for grape and wine production, as well as social and economic factors, were rigorously defined. Then on June 24 of this year, National Viticulture Day in Austria, the panel presented its report on the impact of implementing the sustainable certification system. Austrian winemakers received it with widespread acclaim, and for those on their way to sustainability, the signposts ahead couldn’t be clearer.

AWMB / LUKAN (4)

Austrian winegrowers embark on a quest for sustainability.

AWMB / ANNA STÖCHER

presented by austrian wine

葡萄园的生长周期介于 60 至 70 年间，与人类的寿命相似。世上任何人若想活得健康长久，都需要适当照护与保养，葡萄也不例外，因此葡萄酒商都忙着呵护葡萄的生长环境。全球各地的葡萄农亦纷纷采取经济的种植方式推动永续发展，保护空气、水源与土壤，以期孕育出美味的葡萄，进而酿造出美酒。商业导向的农业一直以来仰赖化学农药与肥料，但如今已不再视为栽培葡萄的良方。葡萄农凭借敏锐的观察力，了解到化学药剂表面上是保护作物的鲜美，实际上却适得其反。今日的葡萄农采用温和的培育方式，相信仰赖大自然的野草，拥有

驱虫抗病的效果，不但确保大丰收，还可酿造绝佳的葡萄酒。奥地利葡萄农协会树立起生态保育的目标，建立一套认证制度，协助当地葡萄农以永续方式酿酒，巧妙运用现代科技来评估行之有年的技术，葡萄农可以上网衡量自己的种植方式。奥地利葡萄农协会主席 Johannes Schmuckenschlager 表示：「永续计画不只是行销的花招而已，重点在于我们必须取得先机，让消费者知道我们的成果，不要等到外界提出这项议题才去因应。」现今的葡萄酒商于追求永续发展时面临了艰巨挑战，得考量酿酒过程的每个面向，包括土壤肥沃度、水污染、土壤侵蚀、

农药使用等，每项都是影响葡萄酒最终风味的关键。奥地利葡萄农协会主任 Josef Glatt 表示：「虽然其他国家在各个面向的管理发展上实行多年，有鉴于我们过去在土壤与作物保育的成就，奥地利势必会持续扮演主动的角色。」首先，奥地利学者专家成立小组，共同设定各种永续项目的品质标准，并严格详述葡萄和葡萄酒的生产与社经因素的准则。实施永续认证制度的成果也首度于 6 月 24 日奥地利全国葡萄文化日公诸于世，奥地利葡萄农的付出与努力，大获外界好评，对于以永续经营为志的葡萄农而言，已可看见未来的康庄大道。 french heavyweights

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甜蜜酒庄

sweet spot In 2004, Pierre Lurton was handed the reins of Château d’Yquem by Bernard Arnault, its proprietor and the chairman and CEO of LVMH. Arnault met with Anne-Clemence Tillette to talk about what makes the house so legendary. § 2004年，Pierre Lurton 从滴金庄 (Château d’Yquem) 庄主也就是 LVMH集团主席暨执行长 Bernard Arnault 手中接下酒庄的领导棒子，今天，

JEAN-BERNARD NADEAU,

他接受 Anne-Clemence Tillette 的访问，畅谈滴金庄成为酒国传奇的关键。

What makes a sweet wine exceptional? Drinking Yquem bestows instant gratification, like savoring a delicious piece of candy. There’s the excellent balance between acidity and sugar and an aromatic complexity that doesn’t smother the simplicity of the taste. These are the elements that define a truly great sweet wine like Château d’Yquem. It’s very different from a wine like Sauternes, which is a lot jammier – 250g of residual sugar compared to 120 in the Yquem. Yquem is pure, fresh, easily assimilated and, above all, utterly elegant. It’s a wine that should be drunk young, rather than one that you should wait for. And it shouldn’t be paired with desserts and foie gras because the wine’s sugar content competes with the sweetness and fat of those dishes. In fact, Yquem pairs far better with savory selections like sweetbreads and spinach, or chicken in citrus sauce, or glazed duck. Yquem fares incredibly well with Asian cuisine. However, it’s not appropriate to serve an entire dinner with Yquem. It’s better when used to highlight a special dish.

滴金甜白酒出色的关键为何？品饮滴金会让人感受到一种立即的满足，就像品尝一块美味的糖果。酸甜口味与丰富香气之间有一种绝佳的平衡，而且丝毫不减葡萄酒的纯粹口感，就是这些元素，造就了真正出色的甜白酒，就如滴金庄。滴金非常不同于苏玳 (Sauternes) 产区的白甜酒，苏玳白甜酒果酱气息非常浓郁，残糖达 250 克，而滴金庄仅 120 克。滴金纯净、清爽、易吸收，更重要的是它的优雅品味。这是适合早饮的酒，无须经过漫长时间等待，而品饮时不建议搭配甜点和鹅肝，因为酒中糖份会与料理甜味和油脂产生冲突。其实，滴金有其他更好的搭配选择，像是小牛胸腺佐菠菜、橙汁鸡或脆皮鸭，滴金与亚洲菜超乎想像地搭配。不过，滴金不适合整顿晚餐饮用，最好用来突显某道特别的菜式。滴金的风土为何特别适合「贵腐」过程？想要成功酿造像滴金这样的甜酒，必须要有合适的气候条件。波尔多 (Bordeaux) 地区受惠于大西洋气候，酒庄又坐落在希隆河谷 (Ciron Valley) 旁的红土高原，加上潮湿晨雾与干燥午风交替生成，都是促进贵腐菌感染过程的基本要素。这些条件促

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Such as not releasing the 2012? Yes, in 2012 we took the risk of not releasing the vintage for sale. The high standards of our label are what influenced that decision. It was made in consultation with Bernard Arnault, who accepted it without question. Our only interest was maintaining our strict criteria for excellence, rarity, and luxury. And this necessary move was welcomed by all of Bordeaux, especially the Sauternes region. What is the secret behind the wine’s ability to age so well? Above all, Yquem’s excellence in aging is the result of the perfect climate producing the perfect density of sugars in the alcohol. Still, its greatness also lies in its venerable history, and the fact that it has been able to retain an optimal balance between quality and price – Yquem doesn’t follow the pattern of Bordeaux reds. Among our great vintages, which I have conserved, there is

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Yquem’s greatness lies in its venerable history, and the fact that it has been able to retain an optimal balance between quality and price. 滴金的伟大也在于它辉煌悠久的历史，以及品质和价格始终维持最佳平衡的成就。

a wonderful 1861, a precocious 1892 with banana aromas, and the 1989 with caramel and almond notes. The 2013 vintage is very promising – we had abundant and high quality récoltes. The strategic decision not to release the 2012 vintage has paid off. It allowed us to continue producing something that is truly unique. That decision was not without precedent. Since the beginning, there have been ten years in which the vintage was not released. What role have you played since 2004? And what contributions has LVMH made to Château d’Yquem since 1990? I am primarily an agronomist and winegrower. [Lurton maintains his own domain

in Bordeaux, Château Marjosse]. I hope to contribute my experience of terroir and a degree of technical expertise. In contrast to the ’60s and ’70s when we witnessed the triumph of new techniques over traditional quality, we have done everything to resurrect the purity of older vintages. I also want to rediscover the complexities of the terroir and of the wine presses that belong to Yquem. Today we have twenty wooden presses, in contrast to the single press we owned during the ’60s. Harvests have become a work of extreme precision. Over the course of thirty-five days between September and November, we harvest six récoltes, and each grape is picked by hand. Yquem is defined by this meticulous care. It is a rare natural phenomenon that has been transformed by the intelligence of man – isn’t that the essence of what is meant by luxury? The LVMH group respects this great house and its illustrious history. They have provided the financial investment necessary to preserve such a distinguished heritage. All of this is the brainchild of Bernard Arnault. Who are your biggest customers in Asia? In Asia, Hong Kong in particular, the market is fairly mature. Our customers tend to be traditional, some are quite elderly. We want to modernize the way Yquem is enjoyed, and begin attracting new customers. For example, business people who are collectors seeking something more artisanal. We’ve begun holding private soirées to encourage their interest. We’ve also attracted many Asian visitors to the property. We’re in the process of developing a VIP club in Bordeaux, a private cellar designed just for them. We’re thinking about a tasting room and a partnership with young chefs who are the rising stars of French cuisine. The idea would be to create a place where we can cultivate new consumers, perhaps serve Yquem by the glass much like Champagne, and let the vintages themselves entice a lifelong loyalty.

JEAN-BERNARD NADEAU (3)

What makes the terroir of Yquem particularly suitable for the “noble rot” process? To be successful with a sweet wine like Yquem, you need the right weather conditions. The Bordeaux region benefits from the Atlantic climate, and the property is situated on a clay plateau next to the Ciron Valley. These are all essential ingredients for fostering the botrytising process – as well as humid morning fog alternating with dry afternoon winds. These factors promote the growth of the Botrytis mold on the grapes. The struggle between vine and mold yields permeable grape skins that produce beautiful aromatic notes which become concentrated by 30 to 40 percent – the result of so-called “noble rot.” To optimize these aromas, we solely pick grapes that have been affected by Botrytis. We do this a little early – harvest takes place about a week before that of other Sauternes wines. So the secret behind Yquem is an excellent terroir, a fine-tuned symbiosis between expert winegrowers, ancestral know-how, and a willingness to take risks.

The unique terroir of Château d’Yquem makes its grapes particularly susceptible to attack by Botrytis cinerea , a parasitic fungus. When ripe grapes are infected and the air turns dry, the fruit begins to shrivel, or “raisin,” the sugars become concentrated, and complex aromas and flavors develop – this is the treasured pourriture noble , “noble rot.” Below: Each year’s painstakingly harvested vintage matures in the château’s cellars for three years in new oak barrels. 伊更堡 (Château d’Yquem) 独特的风土让那里的葡萄特别容易感染一种名为 Botrytis cinerea 的寄生真菌。当成熟葡萄感染真菌，周围空气变得干燥时，果实便开始皱缩，变得如葡萄干一般，里头糖分同时聚集起来，产生繁复的口味与浓郁的香气，这便是被人们视为珍宝的 pourriture noble ，是「贵腐」的意思。下方：每年得来不易的佳酿都被装在全新的橡木桶中，在城堡地窖里经过三年的熟成。

wine master

The ancient estate covers the highest point in Bordeaux’s Sauternes region. Each day the chateau’s bell rings out over the fields to signal the start and end of the workday in the vineyard, a cycle of labor that has been repeated at least since 1711, when the land passed into the ownership of Léon de Sauvage d’Yquem and grapes were first grown here. 这座古老的庄园位于 Bordeaux 市 Sauternes 区的至高点。日复一日，城堡的钟声响彻整片田野，象征着葡萄园里一天劳动的开始和结束，这样的循环始于约 1711 年，当时这片土地的所有权转移到 Léon de Sauvage

d’Yquem 手中，也是种植葡萄的开端。

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Vines bearing Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes in the ratio of four to one cover the 250 acres that are in production at any time. One of the costliest aspects of making the wine is the need for skilled harvesters for the tries successives, or multiple passes, that are made through the rows to find and pick only those individual grapes sufficiently ennobled by the Botrytis fungus. Each vine produces a single glass of Yquem. 这 250 英亩的土地一年四季由赛美蓉 (Sémillon) 和白苏维翁 (Sauvignon Blanc) 两种葡萄的藤蔓覆盖着，两者比例约四比一。在制造葡萄酒的过程中，最耗费心力的一个重要步骤，就是需要技巧纯熟的采收者逐排地手工拣选感染足够真菌的葡萄。一株葡萄藤只能生产一瓶 Yquem 葡萄酒。

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使贵腐菌在葡萄表面成长，霉菌在葡萄外皮钻出小孔，使其干缩 30% 至 40%，产生成熟浓郁的香味，就会形成所谓的「贵腐」。为了充分利用这些香气，我们只采收受到贵腐菌感染的葡萄。我们的采收作业比较早些，大约比其他苏玳白甜酒提早一周。所以，滴金背后的秘密就是绝佳风土、酿酒专家之间完美合作、祖传知识以及甘受风险的决心。

JEAN-BERNARD NADEAU (2, PREVIOUS PAGE )

你说的决心就如放弃推出 2012 年份的酒？是的，2012 年我们冒着风险，决定不出产当年份酒。滴金庄对于品质的高标准要求，促使我们做出这项决定。这是在征询 Bernard Arnault 之后所做的决定，当时 Arnault 毫无疑问地就点头同意。我们唯一关心的是维持滴金庄对于卓越、珍稀和奢华的严格标准。整个波尔多地区都欣然接受这项必要决定，尤其是苏玳产区。滴金如此禁得起熟成的秘诀为何？滴金的熟成能力之所以如此出色，首要原因是完美的气候造就酒体完美的糖度。除外，滴金的伟大也在于它辉煌悠久的历史，以及品质和价格始终维持最佳平衡的成就 , 滴金不曾步上波尔多红酒的后尘。对我来说，最好的年份是绝佳的 1861 年份、早熟带有香蕉气味的 1892 年份，以及富有焦糖和杏仁香气的 1989 年份。 2013 年份非常值得期待，我们酒庄自己种植的葡萄不仅大丰收，而且品质极佳。而不推出 2012 年份的决定现在也得到了回报，我们因此能够继续生产真正独一无二的好酒。这个决定并非没有先例，开业迄今，我们已有十几年没有推出当年份酒。

2004 年交棒之后，您扮演何种角色？而 LVMH 集团自 1990 年以来对滴金庄又有何贡献？我的角色主要是农业专家和酿酒师。 [Lurton 在波尔多专门负责马杰堡红酒 (Château Marjosse)]。我希望贡献我的风土经验和技术专长。 1960 和 1970 年代是新技术压倒传统品质的时代，为此我们一直想尽办法重现过去葡萄酒的纯粹。我也想重新找回属于滴金的风土和榨酒机气象。现今我们有 20 台木制榨酒机，回溯 1960 年代只有一台。收成的工作必须精准到位，我们在九月至十一月间的 35 天内，采收 6 种酒庄自种葡萄，每种都是人工采摘，滴金最著名的就是这种无微不至的用心，如今被人类的发明科技所致而变得罕见，这不就是奢华的精髓吗？ LVMH 集团尊重这座伟大的酒庄及其辉煌的历史，他们的投资让如此卓越的遗产得以保存下来。这一切的种种都是 Bernard Arnault 的心血结晶。您在亚洲最大的顾客是谁？在亚洲，香港是少数已经相当成熟的市场。我们的客户通常是比较传统的人士，有些甚至已有相当年纪。我们想将滴金的品饮方式变得更时髦，并且开始吸引新的顾客，例如，喜欢收藏手工精品的商务人士。为此，我们已经开始举办私人晚会，希望唤起他们的注意。我们也吸引许多亚洲游客前往滴金庄旅游。我们还在波尔多筹划 VIP 俱乐部，专为 VIP 设计的私人酒窖。我们也考虑设置品酒室，并且挑选几个前景看好的年轻法国料理厨师合作。如果这个构想付诸实行，我们就有一个据点可以培养新的顾客，也许可以像喝香槟那样用玻璃杯盛着滴金，让酒自己去吸引终身相随的忠实顾客。

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环球酿酒顾问

cellar coach “Working a lot, crazy a lot, trying a lot – that’s my life!” says International Wine Consultant Michel Rolland. He met with Mark Hammons in Tianjin, China, to discuss his long, eventful and influential career in the wine business. § 国

际知名酿酒顾问 Michel Rolland 在聊及自己时表示:「工作工作工作、加上不断的尝试，这就是我的生活。」这次在天津，他特别与 Mark Hammons

什么样的因缘际会让你成为酿酒顾问？最早我是打定主意要当酿酒师，一头栽进了这个世界，然后一步一步走到今天，从一开始的波尔多，再去美国，后来到了阿根廷，至今我已经待过世界 20 个国家。一路走来其实我没想太多、也搞不太清楚，他们邀请我，我也欣然前往，一晃眼就 40 年了。

碰面，畅谈纵横红酒界多年来，觥筹交错的缤纷生涯。

What makes a winemaker? Instinct and experience? Instinct. Not experience. Over the course of forty years of working my mind has changed gradually, as the wine scene has changed. My grandfather was making wine, my father was making wine, and I’m making wine. Every generation was following what the father or grandfather did. Today, we cannot think like that because today everything is moving faster. We have many tricks to improve the wines, so we have to be more flexible and adaptable. What drives you? A huge amount of curiosity! That’s why anytime somebody calls me from somewhere absolutely incredible like India, Armenia or wherever, I’m going just for curiosity. I’m an old guy now, but it’s still fun for me. If tomorrow, somebody calls me from Tajikistan, I’m going to Tajikistan because I have no idea

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what can happen in Tajikistan, and I want to find out! And I have a goal. It is very simple: to make the best wine possible. How has the job of wine consultant evolved over the last forty years? In the beginning I was just fighting for a clean winery, fighting for a ripeness, fighting for good vineyard management to make the best grapes, because we need good grapes to make good wine. And today we have good vineyards, not everywhere, but almost everywhere. We are able to control the grapes’ maturity, and we have cellars with fantastic facilities and the possibility to make almost everything we want to make. Now, we have many opportunities to do something different. And the wines are definitely better. How does the job vary from country to country? Everywhere is different. Everything is different. You have different people in front of you, not the same raw materials. That’s where my job is fantastic because almost every day I change and I’m going from one winery to another winery. I taste different wine. I discuss with different people. Do you think there’s a bright future for wine production in China? We have just one enemy – climate. We can control almost everything, but the one

往前的动力为何？强烈的好奇心！所以每次受邀到印度、亚美尼亚或其他想都没想过的地方时，我都跃跃欲试。现在年纪大了，但还是觉得很好玩。假设明天收到来自塔吉克的邀约，我也会二话不说即刻启程，总要去一下才能知道在那里能迸出什么样的火花！出任务同时也要随时谨记自己的目标，五个字：做最棒的酒。谈谈酿酒顾问工作 40 年来的演变？初期重点都放在找干净的酒厂、正确的熟成时间，开发最佳葡萄园管理方式以生产品质最好的葡萄，才能酿制最好的酒。今天要找好的葡萄园已经不成问题，虽然不是每个地方都好，但也差不多了。我们已经能够管控葡萄的熟度，也有设备一流的酒窖，要酿什么都可以，几乎无所不能。现在多了不少机会尝试不同的变化，酒的品质的确比以前好。到不同的国家工作，有什么差异？每个地方都是不一样的，遇到的事当然也大不相同。这么说吧，因为地域的原因，我能遇到形形色色的人，经手的原料也有差别，但这正是我工作引人入胜的地方。

DAVID HARTUNG

How did you become a wine consultant? At the beginning, I decided to be an oenologist and to make wine. Everything happens step-by-step. Initially I was working in Bordeaux a lot. I went to the US first. I went to Argentina second. I’ve now been to twenty different countries all over the world. People call me to come. I don’t really know how it happened – but I have been working for forty years now.

成为专业酿酒人，靠天份还是经验？靠天份吧。工作至今 40 个年头，随着葡萄酒大环境的转变，想法也逐渐不同。我的祖父、父亲和我，一家三代都酿酒，以前都是萧规曹随，父执辈怎么教就怎么做。现在步调快了许多，不能再墨守成规，和以前一样。目前可以提升红酒品质的方法很多，因此要学着顺应不同情况，拿出最佳解决方案。

Michel Rolland

With over 150 wineries on his roster of clients, it’s difficult to know where to start with the wines of Michel Rolland. Accustomed to getting scores in the 90s from leading critics, here are five he finds significant (above, from left): Château Le Bon-Pasteur Pomerol 1998, from a winery now part of the Goldin Group; Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 1997 from Tuscany; Château Ausone St.-Emilion Grand Cru 1982; Sloan Estate from Napa Valley, another Goldin Group label; Château L’Evangile Pomerol 2000. Michel Rolland 的客户名单上有超过150 家酿酒厂，要谈起他酿造的美酒真不知该从何说起。从90 年代开始便屡获得评论家赞赏的他，点名了五瓶「意义深重」的酒(自左上起)：1998 年的Château Le Bon-Pasteur Pomerol，产于今日隶属于高银集团的一家酿酒厂、产于塔斯卡尼的Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 1997；1982 年的Château Ausone St.-Emilion Grand Cru；产于Napa Valley 的Sloan Estate，也是高银集团的酒标之一，以及2000 年的Château L’Evangile Pomerol。

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wine master

thing we never can control is climate. When you have too much rain, when you have too much sun, when you have too much cold, it’s really difficult. That’s what China is facing, because the climate is not really generous in China for very good wine and great wine. We can make wine, definitely, and we can make good wine. But really to go out and make even better wine – it’s quite difficult. Explain the effects of the climate on Chinese wine production. You need climate to allow you to produce good grape quality. When you have a very good season but you have three inches of water coming on the fifteenth of August, forget it. That’s a disaster for the vintage. That thing – not always, but quite often – can happen in China. We can have a very good year in China because the season is good sometimes; but it’s so up and down. If we don’t have the right weather, we have to

wait a year after. Wine is business. Business means we cannot do wine every five years. We have to make wine year after year, and make it good. That’s where China may have a problem in the future – with the climate. The rest – everything is perfect, because people have financial power. There is room to plant vineyards. We can do almost everything, but unfortunately, we can never change the climate. How do you balance making the wines more popular, but also maintaining their uniqueness and their individuality? The oenologist is not strong enough to create the personality of the wine, fortunately. It’s the terroir, especially as you go up in quality, which gives personality to the wine. But don’t forget – wine is business. We have to sell it, and to sell it we have to find people who like it, who drink it. That’s where the question and where the challenge gets

even bigger. Of course, we are making wine in North America, South America, Europe, now Asia – almost everywhere. We have to think which kind and which type of wine we have to produce to make the consumer happy. That’s where it’s more than oenology, more than techniques. We have the boss with the money. We have the team working, and we have the consultant looking and trying to understand what the boss is expecting, what the team is able to do and, in fact, which market is corresponding to this type of wine. So how do you summarize your role? My job – I am a coach. I coach in fourteen different countries and I coach many teams. I’m checking what the teams in the wineries are doing, what possibilities they have. I try to make the mixture and to say, “Here, we have to take that way, that way, that way.” I have to convince people to take the right way.

“We have the possibility to make almost everything we want to make. Now, we have many opportunities to do something different. And the wines are definitely better.

我们几乎无所不能，现在多了不少机会尝试不同的变化，酒的品质的确比以前好。“ 我几乎每天都在改变，在不同的酿酒厂间流转，品尝着不同的酒，和不同的人打交道，互相讨论交换意见。这就是乐趣所在。

DAVID HARTUNG

对中国酿酒业前景是否有信心？酿酒界至今只剩下一个敌人：天气。即使一切尽在掌控之中，但唯有天气依旧难以捉摸，雨太多、日照过长、温度太冷都不行，这也正是中国发展酿酒业的一大难关。大抵来说，气候之神并未特别眷顾中国，要做出顶级好酒或佳酿都不容易。在中国酿酒当然不难，做出好酒也不是问题，但真要能找块庄园酿出更上一层的好酒，那又另当别论了。能否进一步说明天气对中国酿酒业的影响？天气条件够好才能栽种品质一流的葡萄。碰到老天爷赏脸的盛产时节，却突然来个 8 月 15 日狂下暴雨 90 毫米，这对葡

萄来说无疑是大灾难，一切就泡汤了。虽然不是每天，但这种情况在中国时有耳闻。若风调雨顺葡萄丰收，当年或可产出很棒的红酒，问题就在于起伏太大了。天气不对的话，就还要再多等一年。酿酒不是慈善事业，每 5 年才有稳定出产的话根本就不用干了。我们要的是年年如是，每年都要有出产，酿制好酒才对。所以说天气可能是中国未来发展酿酒业的一大隐忧，但除此之外的其他条件倒是都不错，毕竟有消费能力的人口相当可观，葡萄园栽种的空间也不少，几乎没有难得倒我们的事，可惜碰到天气依旧束手无策。

当然别忘了，酿酒目的是要做生意。酒商要卖酒，就要找到爱喝酒的客人才行。这是问题的关键，因此面临的挑战也越来越大。我们的酿酒版图几乎遍及全球，从北美、南美、欧洲、到现在的亚洲，尽管规模庞大，但在销售过程中仍要不断提醒自己，客人喜欢哪种酒，怎样才能让他们享用得开心。这已超出单论酿酒或技术的范畴了。纵观目前酿酒产业，上有出钱投资的老板，下有合作无间的团队，中间还有优秀的酿酒顾问，我们要做的就是找出老板的预期和团队的实际能力，还要把不同的酒和市场进行匹配，找到最佳销售点。

要做出广受欢迎的好酒，同时保留独特性和个别特色，其中有何秘诀？酿酒人还不足以强悍到能为酒创造个性，可以说这也是一件幸运的事吧。我认为要创造出有个性的酒，重点是风土，特别谈及品质好坏时，这才是决定性因素。

您会如何形容自己的角色？我的工作和教练没两样，指导 14 个国家和许多团队，审视酿酒团队的进度以及未来潜力。我尽量兼顾不同面向，也会老把「这里要那样做、就这么办」挂在嘴上。说服别人往正确的方向走就是我的任务。 french heavyweights

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完美的一天

perfect finish Winding down an evening at Hong Kong’s toniest twin restaurants is best accomplished by celebrating unexpected pleasures.

AN UNDERSTATED SENSE of refinement permeates Vasco and Isono, two restaurants joined as one lofty space on the 6th and 7th floors of the Police Married Quarters (PMQ). The décor designed by Joyce Wang – at once classic and futuristic – evokes an elegance of days gone by while embracing the chic of modern embellishments. Glass doors reveal a large airy room in warm tones and wood furniture set in black metal. Gilded glass orbs and exposed bulbs overhead fill the room with a gentle and convivial glow that softens the harsh edges of sleek columns sheathed in brass. The staff exudes a sense of relaxed ease as the dinner service draws to a close and the last guests finish the hearty French, Spanish, and Italian offerings inspired by Executive Chef Paolo Casagrande’s cosmopolitan childhood. Meandering toward the magnificent horseshoe-shaped bar that gleams in white marble at the center of the room, they join nearby guests in a digestif – a very civilized way to crown the evening. Chef Casagrande emerges from the kitchen into the hum of conversation and settles at a long brass table. He is soon joined by Gabriele Milani, Chef de Cuisine of Vasco, and Luca Marinelli, Chef de Cuisine of Isono, who begins to carefully pour

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out five-dram tumblers of Johnnie Walker Blue Label to be accompanied by slices of salty Ibérico ham. Creash Wong, resident Director of Wines, arrives, bearing the essential ice. He deftly drops one large cube into each glass as Guest Service Manager Ilaria Becagli approaches. Ilaria: I was so surprised today when a guest kissed me on the cheeks like we do in Italy! It really made my day. Luca: The best part of the day for me is always morning, when there’s no one in the kitchen and you have your own space. This is such a trendy place and everybody wants to be here, but early in the morning there’s no noise or distractions. You can just create. Gabriele: I love when all the other chefs arrive. There’s this sense of anticipation that’s so invigorating. I’ve only been in Hong Kong since January, so the market and the products are all new to me. Yet the feeling in the kitchen is the same. I’ve worked in cities all over the world, and inside the kitchen it’s always the same everywhere I go. We do communicate in a different way here than we do in Europe, but our kitchen staff is incredibly hard working and it’s been wonderful collaborating with them. We’re family. Paolo: There’s work and routine, and then there are those unexpected things that happen all the time. Like yesterday when a small bird suddenly flew into the room where I was having a meeting! Every day is a surprise, really. Today, it’s this great whisky. Creash: I like the consistency of what I do. I’ve been in the restaurant business for over twenty years, and although my work has always been with wine and liquor, I still love being able to help my guests find the right ones to pair with their meals. That’s the most satisfying part of my job. Paolo: Creash, this whisky would go very well with dessert, like our chocolate dish with the biscuits, gelato, and caramel. What do you think?

Creash: Yes, there’s a touch of caramel in the whisky itself. It’s very elegant and smooth. There’s also a hint of honey in the aftertaste, and just the right smokiness. Some people mix water with Scotch or add ice to it, but I think you can enjoy this best all on its own. It has a very balanced taste. Gabriele: I expected the whisky to taste much stronger – I’m very pleasantly surprised by how smooth this is.

Gabriele: There’s a lot of good food here because people in Hong Kong want the best. There’s a demand for premium ingredients and dishes, and the demand is growing because more and more people can afford them now. Luca: Lately it’s all about the white truffle, so many requests for our dishes that feature it. Paolo: We are surrounded by good food every day here at Vasco and Isono. Our

Luca: I think that this might become my favorite part of the day – talking to each other while we enjoy a good drink. The Blue Label goes really well with the sixty-month Ibérico ham. Ilaria: Funny, even after work, we like to spend our time with food – eating good food and discovering new restaurants in different parts of Hong Kong.

meat and fish are imported from Europe, and we source our produce from all over the world. I’m not surprised that we spend our time in top restaurants even in our leisure time. We’re passionate about good ingredients, good food, and good drinks. It’s who we are. Ilaria: To good ingredients, good food, and good drinks. Salute!

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一股低调奢华的气息萦绕于 Vasco 与 Isono，这是两家进驻元创方 (PMQ) 6 楼和 7 楼挑高空间的餐厅，设计装潢由 Joyce Wang 操刀，揉合经典与前卫，不仅散发昔日岁月的优雅风情，也借现代感装饰展现时尚风采。推开玻璃门，迎面是宽敞通风的开阔空间，黑色金属巧妙搭配木制家具，满室洋溢温暖色调。镀金玻璃圆灯和吊挂空中的裸露灯泡装饰整个空间，绽放着温柔欢乐的灯光，软化了铜面立柱的刺眼锋芒。

Vasco 总厨 Gabriele Milani 和 Isono 总厨 Luca Marinelli 随即加入他的行列，Marinelli 开始小心翼翼地倒出五杯尊尼获加蓝牌陈年威士忌，同时切下几片搭配的伊比利亚火腿。集团餐酒总监 Creash Wong，带着品酩威士忌不可或缺的冰块到来，利索地在每只玻璃杯内放入一个大冰块，此时客户服务经理 Ilaria Becagli 也加入他们。 Ilaria ：今天竟然有个客人亲了我的脸

晚餐时间接近尾声，在最后一组客人享用完行政总厨 Paolo Casagrande 以游历各国的童年生活经验为灵感，设计的一系列丰盛的法国、西班牙和意大利料理后，餐厅同仁的心情顿时轻松了起来。他们悠闲的走向餐厅中央富丽堂皇、闪耀白色大理石皑皑光芒的马蹄形酒吧，跟附近几桌客人一样喝起餐后酒来，以最优雅的方式犒劳辛苦工作一日的自己。总厨 Casagrande 从厨房走向热闹闲聊的人群，在一张长形铜桌旁坐了下来。

颊，就跟我们在意大利一样！让我乐了一整天。 Luca ：对我来说，一天最棒的时刻是早上，厨房里一个人也没有，整个空间都是你的。我们餐厅很时尚，人人都想来，只有一大早在没有噪音或干扰之下，才能专心创作。 Gabriele ：我喜欢所有厨师全部到齐的时刻，就是这种期待的感觉，让人精神抖擞。我一月才到香港，对市场和食材都很陌生，可是在厨房里的感觉却是一样的。

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我在世界各大城市工作过，无论走到哪里，厨房里面永远一样。这里的沟通方式虽然不同于欧洲，但厨房同事非常勤奋，跟他们合作很愉快，大家就像亲人一样。 Paolo ：每天忙着工作和例行公事，不过总有意想不到的事情发生。就像昨天，有只小鸟突然飞进房间，当时我正开会开到一半！每天都有惊喜，说的真没错。今天的惊喜就是这杯上乘的威士忌。 Creash ：我喜爱自己在职业上的专注。我在餐饮业已经二十多年，虽然工作始终围绕着酒，但我依旧热爱帮客人找到适合佐餐的酒品，这是我最心满意足的。 Paolo ：Creash，这款威士忌非常适合搭配甜点，像是我们那道加了饼干、意式冰淇淋和焦糖的巧克力甜点，你觉得呢？ Creash ：的确，这款威士忌本身有股淡淡的焦糖香，喝起来十分优雅顺口，余韵带点淡淡的蜂蜜香甜，烟熏味也恰到好处。有人喝苏格兰威士忌一定要兑水或加冰块，但我觉得这款威士忌单喝最好，它的口感相当平衡。 Gabriele ：我原以为这款威士忌的味道会更加强烈，没想到这么顺口，真不错。 Luca ：我想这应该是我一天当中最享受的时刻，一边闲聊，一边享用美酒。蓝牌威士忌和熏制 60 个月的伊比利亚火腿真的很搭。 Ilaria ：真好玩，即使下了班，我们还是绕着食物打转，到处品尝美食，发掘香港各地的新餐厅。 Gabriele ：香港人只要最好的，我们顺应民意，餐厅里美食如云。客人渴望享受顶级食材和料理，而且越来越多人消费得起，因而需求也不断增加。 Luca ：最近白松露很热门，很多客人都点白松露入菜的料理。 Paolo ：我们在 Vasco 和 Isono 工作，每天都被美食包围。肉品和鱼类从欧洲新鲜直送，农产品也从世界各地采购而来。即使闲暇时间，我们也不停造访各家顶级餐厅，这一点也不奇怪，因为我们热爱上等食材、上等美食和上等好酒。我们就是这样的人。 Ilaria ：敬上等食材、上等美食和上等好酒，干杯！

Left to right: Chef de Cuisine of Vasco Gabriele Milani, Guest Service Manager Ilaria Becagli, Executive Chef Paolo Casagrande, Director of Wines Creash Wong, Chef de Cuisine of Isono Luca Marinelli 由左至右: Vasco总厨 Gabriele Milani，客户服务经理 Ilaria Becagli，行政总厨 Paolo Casagrande，集团餐酒总监 Creash Wong， Isono总厨 Luca Marinelli

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TK" WHERE TO FIND TK Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants.

HONG KONG RESTAURANTS 1/5 nuevo 208 Duecento Otto 22 Ships 798 Unit & Co - JAR 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – Bombana A Touch of Spice Adagio Agehan agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung San House, Cityplaza, Devon House, Fashion Walk) agnès b. le pain grillé Ah Yat Harbour View Restaurant Akita Al Bistro Mediterranean Restaurant & Bar - TST Al Dente (Great Eagle Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, SoHo) Al Molo Ristorante Italiano All Night Long Al's Diner Amante Amber Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill Amina Italian and Oyster Restaurant AMMO Amore Italian Restaurant ANA Oyster & Grill Angel's Share Another Fine Day An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria Antipasto Antique Patisserie Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar Applegreen CWB Applegreen TST Ayuthaiya Caffe Greco La Marmite Arima Teppanyaki Aropa Azure Baby Blue Cafe & Bar Bacar Bahama Mama's Caribbean Bar Banker Whisky and Wine Bar Barg Barista Jam Bella Vita Bellaria Berliner German Bar and Restaurant Bicho Biergarten Big Tree Pub Bistecca Italian Steak House Bistro Bamboo Bistrot Le Fauchon Bit Point Black stump Australian Grill & bar Bloom BLT Burger BLT Steak Blue Lemon café & wine bar Bo Innovation Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar Bo-Lo'gne Bombay Dreams Bonheur Bouchon Bistro Francais Bourbon Brasserie Le Fauchon Brat

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Bricklane Brivo Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Restaurant Brunch Club Bulldog's Bar & Grill Cafe by the Park Cafe Deco Cafe Elite Cafe Eos Club Cafe Gray Deluxe Café Iguana Café Locomotive Café Loisl Café Muse Cafe O Café on the 1st Cafe Rivoli Cafe TOO Cafe Zambra Cammino Caprice Carousel Fine Cake & Pastries Carpaccio Casa Fina Casa Lisboa Portuguese Restaurant & Bar Casablanca Oyster Steak Restaurant Cecconi's Italian Census Lounge Cepage C'est la B Chesa Chez Moi Chez Patrick Deli Chez Shibata Chikayaki Chilli Fagara Chocolate Chum Chum Mi CIN CIN Ristorante Circle Oyster Classified Mozzarella Bar Classified The Cheese Room Club Chow Club de Flavor Club Havana coast Cocky Bar Cova Café - Admiralty Cova Café - Lee Gardens Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria Cova Ristorante & Caffe Coyote Bar & Grill Craftsteak Cuisine Cuisine - IFC Cutty Sark Da Ping Huo Daddyos Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill Dap Modern European Restaurant Delaney's Wanchai Délifrance Devil's Advocate Divino Patio Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant Domani Ristorante Double Happiness Café Duetto Dynasty - Wanchai Eat Right edo & bibo Oyster & Steak House EL CID Spanish Restaurant El Pomposo Estudio F.A.B French - American Bistro Fandango Spanish Restaurant Fat Angelo's

TK | french heavyweights

Felix FINDS Fish Bar & Grill Flame at Towngas Avenue Fleur de Sel Flute Bar Flutes Champagne and Cocktail Bar Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai Forum Restaurant Fresh Café & Bar Frites Belgium on Tap Fu Ho Restaurant - TST Fuel Espresso Full/half Gaddi's Gaia Ristorante Gaylord Indian Restaurant Gemini glo restaurant + lounge Goccia Restorante Bar Terrace Gokayama Gold By Harlan Goldstein Grand Central Bar & Grill Grappa's Ristorante Grecoπ Green Grill Cafe Handle Bar Harbour Restaurant Hard Rock Café Harlan's Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor Restaurant & Bar Hoi King Heen Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk Restaurant Holly Brown Hong Kong University Alumni Association Hooray Bar & Restaurant HOUSE il meglio Ristorante di Venezla Il Moro iL Posto 97 Inn Side Out Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - Causeway Bay Island Seafood & Oyster Bar - TST Island Tang Isola Italian No.5 Iwanami Jaa Kitchen Japas Jashan Celebrating Indian Cuisine Jimmy's Kitchen Joe Bananas Joe's Billiards & Bar Joia Kaiko Teppanyaki Katte Shabushabu King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, Wanchai) Kitchen 65 Kitchen M Knutsford Steak Chop & Oyster Bar Kosyu Kowloon Tang KYOTO JOE L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon La Bodega La Bon Restaurant & Lounge La Bon’s Café la brezza café La Cantoche La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar LA Creperie La Cucina Italiana La Maison

La Pampa La Parole La Serene Caffè La TASCA La Terrasse l'altro Lattitude 22⁰ LaVilla TST Lawry's the Prime Rib Le Café Le Gouter Bernardaud (ICC, IFC) Le Marron Le Mieux Bistro Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant Galerie) Le Salon Restaurant et Croissanterie Le Souk Lei Garden - IFC Life Lil' Siam Limehouse Linguini Fini Lobby Lounge Louis' Steak House Lung King Heen LUPA LUX Bistro & Bar Magnolia Mangrove Bar & Restaurant Marlin Mask of Si Chuen McSorley's Ale House Merhaba Mes Amis Metropolitan Café Ming Court Mini Dans la Ville Mirror MiSet Restaurant Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining Moon Thai Mr. Steak Grill Ms B's Cakery Munch Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Nahm Vietnamese & Thai Nan Tei Nepal Nicholini's Nico's Oceanna Okaki Ole Spanish Restaurant Oliver's Super Sandwiches (Cheong Kong Centre, Hong Kong Station) Oliver's Super Sandwiches Melbourne Plaza One-Thirtyone Only Buonasera Oolaa Oolaa petite Orange Tree Restaurant Otto Restaurant & Bar OWL Our Wonderland Oysters Bar & Restaurant Papa Razzi Papi Pastis Bistro Francais Peace Square Peak Café Bar Pearl on the Peak Peking Garden Restaurant Pepino Italian Restaurant Petrus Pier 7 Cafe & Bar Pierre PizzaExpress, Central PizzaExpress, Wanchai Pizzazaza Podium Cafe Portobello Posto Pubblico

PRIME steakhouse Red Bar & Restaurant Red Rock Bar & Grill Rei Restoration Rex Caffe Roka Rouge Royal Feast Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen Ruth's Chris Steak House Sabatini Ristorante Italiano Sabor Spanish Touch Private Kitchen Sahara Mezz Bar Sakaegawa Japanese Resaturant Sake Bar GINN Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar Scirocco Serenade Sevva Shanghai Fraternity Association Shanghai Jade Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo Shore Steak Shui Hu Ju Simplylife Bakery Cafe Simplylife Bread & Wine SML Social House Socialito SoHo Spice Vietnamese & Thai Solas Sole mlo Sorriso Italian Cuisine Spasso Italian bar SPICE Spicy Fingers Spoil Cafe Spoon by Alain Ducasse Spring Moon St.George Star Restaurant Starz Wine Bar Staunton's Wine Bar & Café Steik World Meats Stone's Stormies Studio City Studio Nineteen Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar Summer Palace Sunning Restaurant Sushi Hiro Sushi Imamura Sushi Kuu Sushi Shin T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar Tai Ping Koon Restaurant Tandoor T'ang Court Taste Tate Dining Room & Bar Teppanyaki Kaika Tequila Jack's Thai Orchids Café & Bar KLN Bay Thai Orchids Café & Bar Mongkok The Box The Dutch Cheese and More The Fifties The Flying Pan The French Window The Globe The Great Indian Kebab Factory The Junk Pub The Lobby The Lotus The Parlour The Pawn

The Peak Lookout The Press Room The Principal The Quarterdeck Club The Quarterdeck Hong Kong The Queen Victoria The Salted Pig The Square The Steak Kitchen Bar & Restaurant The Swiss Chalet The Wheel Tiffin Tim's Kitchen Tivo Tivoli Italian Restaurant Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen Trattoria Doppio Zero Tutto Bene Twyst Uno Duo Trio Va Bene Van Gogh Kitchen Via 28 Ristorante View 62 by Paco Roncero Vivo W28 Steak House Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant Wagyu Kaiseki Den Wagyu Lounge Wanya Japanese Restaurant Watson's Wine SoHo Weinstube Westwood Carvery Wildfire Wildfire pizzabar & Grill Wing's Kitchen Wooloomooloo Prime Wooloomooloo Steakhouse Wyndham the 4th Xi Yan Sweets Yan Toh Heen Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai Yi Pai Ya Yorkshire Pudding Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant Zelo Spanish Restaurant & Tapas Bar Zen Zentro Bar & Eatery ZOO Zummer 四合軒

CLUBHOUSES United Services Recreation Club Pacific club HK Bartender's & Sommelier's Association Aberdeen Marina Club American Club - Hong Kong Country Club American Club - Town Club Asia Golf Club Caldecott Hill Chinese Recreation Club Continental Club Craigengower Cricket Club Discovery Bay Recreation Club Fairview Park Country Club Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Gold Coast Resident's Club House Gold Coast Yacht and Country Club Harbour Front Club House Hebe Haven Yacht Club Hong Kong Country Club Hong Kong Cricket Club Hong Lok Yuen Country Club Kerry Property Management services Ltd

TK" WHERE TO FIND TK 《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。

(15 Homantin Hill, Belgravia, Branksome Grande & Branksome Crest, Century Tower I & II, November Tower I & II, SOHO 38, Tavistock II & Aigburth, Valverde) Kowloon Tong Club Macau Jockey Club Marina Club Discovery Bay Marina Cove Club Mariners' Club (The Narubers Club) Mission Hills Golf Club Orient Express No. 8 Club Bel Air Pacific Club Palais Monaco Premier Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club Shek O Golf Country Club The Beverly Hills (Resident's Clubhouse) The China Club The Clearwater Bay Golf & Country Club, HK The Cullinan The Ellipsis The Foreign Correspondents' Club Hong Kong The Hong Kong Golf Club Deep Water Bay The Kowloon Club The Kowloon Cricket Club The Novemberfair The Palazzo Derby Three Bays Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse

WINE AND GOURMET SHOPS Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. Concord Fine Wines Limited Cottage Vineyards (International) Limited Delish Hong Kong Wine Vault Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong Kong) Limited - Admiralty, Wanchai, TST, Kwai Chung Limitless Holdings Limited Monsieur Chatté, Sheung Wan Monsieur Chatté, Elements Pan-Handler Portrait Winemakers & distillers Prime Cellar Wine Tasting Room Queensway Wine Sino Vantage Asia Limited Valentino Chocolatier - Sai Kung Valentino Chocolatier Wanchai

HOTELS City Garden Hotel Conrad International Hong Kong Cosmopolitan Hotel Courtyard By Marriott Hong Kong Crowne Plaza HK CWB Hotel Eaton Hotel Hong Kong Eaton House Excelsior Hotel Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Harbour Grand Hong Kong Harbour Grand Kowloon Harbour Plaza North Point Holiday Inn Golden Mile Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel Hong Kong Marriott Hotel Hotel Icon

Hotel Jen Hotel LKF by Rhombus Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Tsim Sha Tsui InterContinental Grand Standford InterContinental Hong Kong Island Shangri-La, Hong Kong JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong Kowloon Shangri-La Lan Kwai Fong Hotel Langham Place, Mongkok, HK Lanson Place Hotel Le Meridien Cyberport L'hotel Island South Luk Kwok Hotel Mandarin Oriental Peninsula Hong Kong Regal Airport Hotel Regal Hong Kong Hotel Regal Hotels International Regal Kowloon Hotel Renaissance Harbour View Hotel, Hong Kong Rosedale on the Park HK Royal Garden Hotel Royal Pacific Hotel & Towers Royal Plaza Hotel Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers SkyCity Marriott Hotel The Kowloon Hotel The Landmark Mandarin Oriental The Luxe Manor The Park Lane Hong Kong The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong

AIRLINE LOUNGES CNAC Lounge Dynasty Lounge Emirate Lounge Emirates Airlines-BKK Lounge Hong Kong Lounge Morning Calm ( Korean Air) Red Carpet Lounge (UA) Royal Orchid Lounge SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) The Traveller's Lounge EAST The Traveller's Lounge WEST Virgin Clubhouse Hong Kong Jet Jet Aviation Buisness Jets Metrojet Limited BAA - Business Aviation Asia Ltd

VANGO Wanchai North Point Ho Man Tin Kwun Tong Lok Fu Shatin Tin Shui Wai Kwai Chung Chai Wan Kwun Tong TST Saigon Tuen Mun Happy Vally Lok Fu Tai Kok Tsui Tin Shui Wai Yuen Long Tai Po

BOOKSHOPS Mandarin Oriental Kiosk Bookazine (Discover Bay, Canton House, Ifc Mall, Harbor City, Kowloon, Prince Building, Central, Shui On) Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, Lyndhurst Terrace, Harbor City, Kowloon, Bonham Road, Repulse Bay, Hopewell Centre, Citygate) Beachside Books Hits Media Center Kubrick Bookstore & Cafe Metrobook (Elements, Kowloon, Mikki, Langham Place) Nobletimes Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, Pacific Place, Admiralty, Wong Tai Sin) Swindon Book Co. Ltd. Cham Kee Tung Son Yung Kee Great Food Park N' Shop (Baguia Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean Coast, Citygate, Clearwater, Cyberport, East Point City, Forview Heights, Festival Walk, Happy Valley, Hong Lok Yuen, Horizon Suite Hotel, Jardine Lookout, Kennedy Town, Metroplaza, Metropolis, New Hopewell Centre, Peak Road, Shouson Hill, South Horizons, Stanley Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau Temple)

MACAU HOTELS Altira Macau Crown Tower Galaxy Macau Galaxy Macau - Banyan Tree Macau Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura Grand Hyatt Grand Lapa Grand Lisboa Hard Rock Hotel Hotel Lisboa Hotel San Tiago Mandarin Oriental MGM Macau Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT Sands Cotai Central Sofitel Macau StarWorld Hotel Wynn Macau

RESTAURANTS A Petisqueira 360° Café 38 Lounge A Lorcha ABA Bar Akasaka Café Albergue 1601 Amore Café Angela’ cafe Antica Trattoria Antonio Restaurant Ao Grama Aurora Aux Beaux Arts Bambu

Banyan Lounge Banza Restaurante Bar Azul BarCelona Tapas & Rice Bar Florian Beijing Kitchen Belcanção Belon Bene Cabana Café Bela Vista Cafe Bleisure Cafe Voyage Café Deco Café Lan Café Litoral Café of 4 Cafe Ou Mun Café Panorama Café Siam Caffé Toscana Camoes Restaurant Cascades Catalpa garden shanghainese restaurant China Rouge Chill Cafe City Café Clube Militar de Macau Coffee Shop Conrad the Loung Copa Steakhouse Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa Cuppa Coffee Bakery and Coffeeshop Don Quijote Edo Japanese Restaurants Feast Festiva Fogo samba Fortune Inn Restaurant Frangi's Grill Ginza Kaiten Sushi Gold Coast Oyster and Seafood Golden Court Gosto Grand Emperor Court Grand Imperial Court Grand Orbit Hana Hana Café Hayyo Henri's Gallery Hero Chinese Restaurant Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge Hotel Royal Lobby Lounge il Cafe Illy Coffee Imperial Court Inagiku Indian Garden Restaurant Irish Bar Jasper Café Jade Dragon Jade Garden Jin Yue Xuan Kafka Sweets & Gourmandises Kam Lai Heen King of Kings Restaurant Kira Klasic Kafe Kwun Hoi Heen La Bonne Keure French Cuisine La Cucina La Gondola La Kaffa Café La Paloma Lan L'Arc Lounge Laurel (@Galaxy) Laurel (@Starworld) Lax Café Le Cesar Lei Garden

Lemongrass Macau Thai Café Lord's Stow Bakery Lua Azul Macau Dynasty Café Madeira Portuguese Restaurant Majestic Robatayaki McSorley's Ale House Men Mung Seafood Mezza 9 MGM Patisserie Mistral MJ Café MO Lobby Lounge + Cake Shop Modern Thai Monsoon Morton's Steakhouse Mugs Talk Myung Ga Korean Restaurant Naam Thai Restaurant Nagomi Lobby Bar & Lounge Nana Café Lounge O Porto Interior Restaurante Old Shanghai Restaurant Old Taipa Tavern Osgatos Pacific Coffee (COD, Galaxy Macau, Sands Cotai Centra, The Residencia) Pak Lok Palms Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge Pearl Lounge Petrus Pink Grill Pizzeria Toscana Poker Café Portal Wine Bar Prive R Bar Rendezvous Restaurant Litoral Restaurante Escada Restaurante Fernando Restaurante Vinha Rossio Royal Orchid Russian Room Saffron Sakazuki Sake Bar Savory Crab Seasons Hot Pot Shanghainese 456 Shiki Hot Pot & Seafood Restaurant (@ L'Arc) Smile House Singing Bean Single Origin-pourover and espresso bar Sky 21 Spice Garden Square 8 Starbucks (@ AIA Tower) Starbucks (@Galaxy Macau) Starworld Concierge Starworld Lobby VIP lounge Talay Thai Restaurant Tang's Cuisine Temptations Tenmasa Terra cafe Terrace Restaurant Terrazza Italian Dining Terrence The Chinese Restaurant The Crystal Piano The Feast The Hotness The Lounge The Macallan Whisky Bar The Roadhouse The Royal Kitchen The Seasons The Tasting Room by Galliot The Windsor

Treasure Palace Tsui Wah Varanda Vasco Vida Rica Bar Vida Rica Restaurant Wave Whisky Bar Windows Restaurant Xin Yamazato Ying Yuzu Zi Yat Heen

CLUBHOUSES Airport Priority pass lounge Caesars Golf Macau FIT Club French Wine Institute Kings Ville La Baie du Noble La Cite Lake View Tower L'Arc Macau Jockey Club Manhattan Mariott Vacation Club Asia Pacific Millennium Nova City Ocean Garden Clubhouse One Central The Buckingham The Pacifica Garden The Praia The Residencia TIS The International School of Macao Macau Golf & Country Club Qube - Venetian Qube - Sands Cotai Central

PRIVATE BANKING Bank of China BOC BNU ICBC Wing Hang Bank - Elite Banking

GOURMET SHOP & WINE SHOP Akasaka Ibéricos Fu Wan Commercial and Industrial Enterprise ltd. Gourmet Corner Jointek Macau Shop MBL Pacific Wine Mart Prestige Jewelry & Gift

SPAS Grand Lapa Spa Six Senses Spa MO The Spa Royal Thai Spa Malo Clinic Spa Four Seasons Spa Bodhi Spa Altira Spa Banyan Tree Spa Rock Spa Isala Spa Crown the Spa

TRANSIT Air Macau Jet Asia Macau Jet Burgeon Rent a car Avis Turbojet Xunlong

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presented by xin dau ji

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领衔粤菜

cantonese celebration Xin Dau Ji’s latest opening applauded by restaurant’s fervent fans. HONG KONG’S CONNOISSEURS of Cantonese cuisine recently celebrated the arrival of a tenth Xin Dau Ji. Though the venue is new, Xin Dau Ji has long been a favorite among both locals and visitors for its exceptional and authentic Cantonese cuisine. While regular guests delight in classic favorites, they also come for the creative and seasonal dishes with surprising, palate-pleasing flavors which are sprinkled throughout the menu. Xin Dau Ji’s Tsim Sha Tsui location is the largest of the restaurant’s Hong Kong venues, with a 15,000 sq. ft. dining room that comfortably seats 400 diners. The décor echoes that of the original restaurant, with a tasteful mélange of brown, red, and purple hues that lend a modern, yet distinctly Chinese feel. Additional classical touches such as Chinese calligraphy, landscape paintings and folding screens complete the interior design for a pleasing blend of both traditional and modern China. Diners will discover that all of Xin Dau Ji’s house specials – roasted suckling pig, roasted goose, pan fried noodles with soy sauce – are served here alongside three new dishes recently introduced by Head Chef Zhou Guoqing: sautéed young pigeon breast,

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winter melon tossed with mushrooms and water chestnuts, and scallops in shrimp sauce. This autumn, those seasonal offerings will further feature carefully selected hairy crabs at their freshest and sweetest. The crabs weigh around 265 grams each and are served with ginger tea. In 2006, Xin Dau Ji opened their first location on Cheong Lok Street. In both 2012 and 2013, the restaurant received a coveted Michelin star. One of those expansions includes Xin Dau Ji’s loftiest location yet: from May 2014 to April 2015, the restaurant is partnering with one of Hong Kong’s leading airlines to offer signature dishes on board selected flights.

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Hairy crabs 新斗记精选大闸蟹

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Scallops in shrimp sauce. 百花煎釀帶子

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Winter melon tossed with mushrooms and water chestnuts 荷香白玉羅漢

香港粤菜食家最近欢庆新斗记第十家分店的开幕，这家位于九龙尖沙咀的新店，已逐渐成为新斗记最受欢迎的分店之一。虽是新址开幕，但新斗记独一无二的正宗怀旧粤菜，一直是本地人和观光客的最爱：经典菜色深获常客青睐自不在话下，因应季节不时推出的创意菜肴，总能让人惊喜连连，垂涎三尺，亦是吸引常客回笼的菜单焦点。尖沙咀分店是新斗记目前在香港规模最大的分店，占地 15,000 平方，最多可以容纳 400 人。装潢设计呼应总店，以棕、红、紫为主要色调，现代感中散发浓浓中国味，再加上中国书法字画、挂画和屏风等陈设，使整体室内设计融合传统与现代中国风格，十分赏心悦目。尖沙咀分店供应新斗记的招牌即烧乳猪、驰名脆皮烧鹅皇、豉油皇银芽炒面等粤式经典菜色，另有总厨周国兴最新创作的三款新菜式：百花煎酿带子、怀旧骨香鸽脯及荷香白玉罗汉。今秋，时令菜肴更推出新斗记新鲜肥美约重七两的特选大闸蟹皇，蟹肉香甜有弹性，蟹膏浓郁可口，并搭配姜茶享用。新斗记 2006 年于长乐街开张，并在 2012 年和 2013 年连续获得餐饮界梦寐以求的米其林星。新斗记集团的十家店，现在已成为正宗粤菜的代名词，餐厅业务也计划拓展至中国各地开设分店。目前，新斗记的扩张计画是把菜肴端上海拔最高的据点：自今年 5 月开始至 2015 年 4 月期间，新斗记与香港著名航空公司合作，于特定航班供应餐厅佳肴，让乘客在空中一尝新斗记特选的各款美食。

WHY NOT

THKfor a change?

Discerning diners have enjoyed a love affair with our sauces since 1938. Through the years, we’ve evolved our flavours to honour the essence of our family recipe while nodding to the desires of modern palates. Next time you want to spice up a dish, think “Why not THK for a change?”

Unit G, 12/F Valiant Industrial Centre, 12 Au Pui Wan Street, Fotan, N.T. Hong Kong Tel: 2690 2323 Fax: (852) 2788 3057 Email: info@thk.com.hk w w w.THK .com.hk

presented by hktdc hongkong international wine and spirits fair

香港国际美酒展

a toast to wine and spirits Ascend to the pinnacle of good taste at the HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair

香港贸发局主办的第七届香港国际美酒展 , 今年于 11 月 6 日至 8 日假香港会议展览中心举行 , 廣邀全球逾 1000 家产酒区制造商參展 , 并举办各种會議、講座、大师品酒课程、试酒会、鸡尾酒调制示范活动、研讨会与买家论坛等等 , 是掌握业界趋势的难得机会。本次展览以「Leisure in Chateau」为主题 , 让参展宾客体验奢华闲情。国际美酒展举行期间，安排了逾 70 个品酒活动，展会年度亮点－酒类行业会议以 “Carpe Vinum – Seize the Wine.” 为主题，国际品酒大师将向参会人士分享最新宝贵市场资讯，分析行业最新趋势。今年大会特别开设「威士忌及烈酒展区」和「Whisky and

Asia’s premier wine event, returns with its 7th edition, 6-8 November at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. The show attracts over 1,000 exhibitors from the world’s major wine regions, and offers an unparalleled opportunity to stay abreast of the industry’s latest developments with master classes, seminars, buyers forums, and wine tastings, as well as tastings at Ice Bar and the Whisky & Brandy Bar. The event’s theme, “Leisure in Chateau,” is designed to encourage an attitude of relaxation and luxury. Over 70 wine events and activities are arranged throughout the wine fair. The fair’s highlighted annual event, the Wine Industry Conference, is held with the theme “Carpe Vinum – Seize the Wine.” Internationally renowned speakers will bring the latest wine market intelligence and updates. One of the major highlights in 2014 is the dedicated exhibition zone for whisky and spirits. The sophisticated Whisky & Brandy Bar provides an arena for tasting as well as education, with sessions designed for both aficionados and neophytes. Producers will be on site to introduce their products and provide advice on appreciation. Winners of the Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine and Spirits Fair Competition will also be announced during the fair. The last day of the show is open to the public—a great opportunity for lovers of wine and spirits to discover new tastes and rekindle their love for life’s finer libations.

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，品酒初学者和爱好者可品酒同时增进葡萄酒知识。 Brandy Bar」展会最后一天将开放予公众参观 , 让爱酒人士有机会品酌最新酒品。

HKTDC Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits Fair Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre +852 1830 668 6-8 Nov 2014 10:30-19:30 Trade visitors aged 18 or above only On-site admission fee HKD100 Pre-register for free admission: www.hktdc.com/ex/hkwinefair/33 8 Nov 2014 10:30-18:00 Open to the public (Visitors aged 18+ only) On-site ticket fee: HKD200 (With complimentary Lucaris glass value HKD110) Early bird offer HKD99 on Beecrazy groupbuy website on or before 4 Nov

香港贸发局香港国际美酒展香港会议展览中心 +852 1830 668 2014年11月6日至8日 10:30-19:30 开放予18岁或以上业内人士参观现场入会费港币100元预先登记可免费入场： www.hktdc.com/ex/ hkwinefair/33 2014年11月8日 10:30-18:00 开放予18岁或以上的公众人士持票入场現場门票费每位港币200元。當天入場參觀人士可憑票免費獲贈价值港币110元Lucaris水晶杯乙只早乌优惠：11月4日或之前登入 Beecrazy 团购网站可以以港币 99元购买门票乙张

COURTESY OF HKTDC (3)

THE HKTDC HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL WINE AND SPIRITS FAIR,

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$336 $252 for your first 6 issues Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com

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Mail Tasting Kitchen Attention: Terrie Lam Unit 01, 10/F, Apec Plaza No. 49 Hoi Yuen Road Kwun Tong, Kowloon, Hong Kong Please make checks payable to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.” Tel +852 2642 0008

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RESTAURANT LISTINGS FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE

Restaurant Akrame Hong Kong French Shop B, G/F, 9 Ship Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 香港湾仔船街9号地下B铺 q +852 2528 5068 Daily: 12:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Bread Street Kitchen & Bar British Mezzanine Level, LKF Hotel, 33 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 香港中环云咸街33号兰桂芳酒店M层 q +852 2230 1800 Daily: 12:00 – 23:30 A Smart Casual 5

Belon 贝隆 European 31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦榕庄31楼 q +853 8883 6090 Wed to Mon: 18:00 – 23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Café Bela Vista 荟景阁咖啡室 International 2/F Grand Lapa, Macau, 956-1110 Avenida Da Amizade, Macau 澳门友谊大马路956-1110号金丽华酒店2楼 q +853 8793 3871 Daily: 6:30 – 22:00 Mon to Thu: Closed 15:00– 18:00 A Smart Casual 5

Château Saint-Martin & Spa 2490 Avenue des Templiers, BP 102 - 06142 - VENCE CEDEX, France q +33 (0)4 93 58 02 02

q +853 8868 2822

Daily: 11:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual Gentlemen are required to wear long trousers ankle-deep with closed footwear. Children aged six years and above are welcome. Children aged below six years are welcome to dine at the private dining room.

The Penthouse by Harlan Goldstein Western Level 30, Soundwill Plaza II, Midtown 1-29 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾登龙街1-29号金朝阳中心二期30楼 q +852 2970 0828 Daily: 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Pierre French 25/F, Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong 香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东方酒店25 楼 q +852 2825 4001 Lunch: Mon to Fri: 12:00-14:30 Dinner: Daily: 19:00-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Sensations 珍味馆 Cantonese 1/F Star World Macau Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店1楼 q +853 8290 8618 Daily: 24 hr A Casual Chic 5

Epicure

Temptations 品味坊

French 112 rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré 75008 Paris q +33 (0)1 53 43 43 40 Daily: 7:00-10:30; 12:00-14:00; 19:00-22:00 A Business casual / Chic

Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc Boulevard JF Kennedy, BP 29 - 06601 ANTIBES CEDEX, France q +33 4 93 61 39 01

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩 5

Chinese – Cantonese 2/F The Shops at the Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道 2楼

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Continental 16/F Star World Macau Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店16楼 q +853 8290 8688 Mon to Fri: 7:00 – 22:00 Sat & Sun: 12:00 – 22:00 A Smart Casual

The Teppanroom Japanese and world’s seasonal cuisine The Teppanroom (located in Kaetsu) M/F, Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Road, Hong Kong 香港港湾道1號香港君悦酒店阁楼(鹿悦日本餐厅内) q +852 2584 7722 Daily: 12:00-14:30; 18:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Terrazza Italian Restaurant 庭园意大利餐厅 Italian 201, 2/F Galaxy Hotel, Estrada da Baia de Nossa Senhora da Esperença, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹城「澳门银河™」综合渡假城银河酒店2楼201号铺 q +853 8883 2221 Mon to Sat: 18:00-23:00 A Smart Casual 5

The Park Lane Hong Kong Roof Top Garden 香港柏宁酒店空中天台花園 28/F, The Park Lane Hotel, 310 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港柏宁酒店, 香港铜锣湾告士打道 310号28楼 q +852 2293 8888

Upper Modern Bistro French 6-14 Elegance Court Shop B, C, D & G/F Upper Station Street Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 香港上环差馆上街6-14号 q +852 2517 0977 Mon to Sat: 11:00 - 23:00 A Smart Casual 5

Vida Rica Restaurant 御苑餐厅 Western & Chinese Mandarin Oriental, Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau 澳门文华东方酒店澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路 q +853 8805 8918 Daily: 06:30-22:30 A Smart Casual 5

Whisky Bar 品味吧 Bar and Lounge 16/F Star World Macau, Avenida da Amizade, Macau 澳门新口岸友谊大马路星际酒店16楼 q +853 8290 8698 Mon to Thu & Sun: 17:00- 2:00 Fri & Sat: 17:00- 3:00 A Smart Casual 5

Xin Dau Ji 新斗记 Chinese 3/F., Kowloon Centre, 29-39 Ashley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 香港尖沙咀阿士厘道29-39号九龙中心3楼 q +852 2711 8898 Daily: 11:30-23:30 A Smart Casual 5

DAVID HARTUNG

dessert

A restaurant is often feted for its signature dish, while a substantial part of Akrame Benallal’s reputation has been built upon a signature ingredient: charcoal. His luxurious caramel and charcoal-powder-coated pineapple avoids the cloying sweetness of some French desserts, and instead beguiles with subtlety, richness, and zing. 餐厅通常都有自己的招牌菜，而 Akrame 的良好声誉多半奠基于一项特色食材：木炭。他的甜点结合了大量焦糖与裹着炭粉的凤梨，少了许多法式甜点的腻味，多了醉人的底蕴、浓郁和刺激。

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TK | french heavyweights

Josef Hoffmann, Fauteuil Fledermaus

TasTe Culture

â&#x20AC;?Tradition is the passing on of the fire, not the worship of the ashes.â&#x20AC;&#x153; Gustav Mahler www.austrianwine.com

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P2 is the Second Plénitude of Dom Pérignon, the result of 16 years of elaboration.The wine is intense, vibrant and precise. Energy is at its peak.