N E W Y E A R ’S E V E N NE EW W Y YE EA AR R ’S ’S E EV VE E
R O O F T O P C E L E B R A T I O N S R TICK A IO R EO OT SO O AF FVT T OL AP PB L E C BO Y TB O AR V O IA D DT I S AIP PO O I NN T M ES CO KE EE AL LR LE E B R A T I O N SN T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S
T VA T II C CK KE ET TS S A AV A II L LA AB BL LE E
B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S
For further information please contact dining reservations Tel : 02 100 6255 Email : diningcgcw@chr.co.th CentaraGrandatCentralWorld CentaraGrand_CentralWorld @ontopoftheworld
Publisher’s Letter
W
e have a fun-filled issue for you covering holidays, shopping and a special report from the Michelin Guide’s release last month. Despite Christmas and New Year’s Eve being a Western concept here in Thailand, as Buddhists have their own non-Christian spiritual beliefs and a completely different concept of when the new year begins, the country still celebrates in full come December. I’m sure you’ll already have noticed Christmas trees erected around the city and malls full of festive decorations. And what about all of those carols and festive tunes on repeat in coffee shops? This issue we have focused on the celebration of the holiday season and festive shopping in Bangkok. We look at the rise of the mega malls, including the newly opened ICONSIAM (pg.21) and take a look at where to purchase your Christmas tree (pg.22), should you have left it late? We travel to Phuket (pg.38) for our monthly travel special, a timely visit given the Michelin Guide’s expansion into two new territories: Phuket and Phang-Nga. Our report from the Michelin Guide’s announcement (pg.84) provides a full run through of all the winners, and as always we have restaurant reviews (pg. 92) along with Food & Drink and Nightlife Listings (pg. 100 & 110). All of this and more— including our 101 archive and extras—can be found online at Enjoy. www.bangkok101.com. A couple of clicks are all it takes to keep in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond. And, if you Mason Florence as a reader feel there’s something Publisher we’re not covering, but should be, please drop us a line at info@ talisman.asia. Merry Christmas!
What is Bangkok 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.
B A N G K O K 101 P A R T N E R S
bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2018 | 5
CONTENTS CITY PULSE 8
Metro Beat Find out what’s going on this month in Bangkok
13
The Rise of the Mega Malls Bangkok’s temples of shopping
21
21 ICONSIAM Bangkok mega mall makes grand debut 22
Bangkok’s Christmas Trees If you’re still on the hunt for a tree, don’t worry, we’ve got you covered
24
Bangkok Sparkle Where to see the city’s most impressive Christmas displays
27
Gold-Mining Black Caviar A special report from the Thai Sturgeon Farm Co Ltd. in Hua Hin
SNAPSHOTS 32 Now New Next An interview with Artist Angkrit Ajchariyasophon 34
Joe’s Bangkok Dedicated Follower of Fashion
36 Heritage ICONSIAM: Heritage in the Making
TRAVEL 38
Phuket 101
40
What To See & What To Do Recommendations on how best to enjoy your time on the beautiful island of Phuket
45
Foodie Phuket We speak to some of the island’s F&B industry about what makes Phuket’s food so special and how the Michelin Guide will play a part in the future of the island’s culinary offering
34
40
48
Chef Jim Ophorst We meet the chef behind Phuket’s only Michelin-starred restaurant
52
The Cake Angel of Phuket An interview with pastry chef and pâtisserie Peter Webber of Les Diables
53 Laad Yai Art Market A look at Phuket’s hippest market 54
Five-Spa Treatment Unwind in one of Phuket’s many spa resorts
58
Phuket Old Town Take a journey through the Old Town and discover a thriving culture and cuisine
61 Photo Feature Esenzi is a globally-influenced, Michelin Plated
seafood restaurant on the road to Phuket, in Phang-Nga
68
Over the Border: Kitchens of Singapore A special report from the hawkers and fine dining temples of Singapore
Bangkok 101 is available at: 6 | DECEMBER 2018
bangkok101.com
CONTENTS ART & CULTURE
84
78
Art Exhibitions Latest gallery openings and December exhibitions from across the city
80
Museum Spotlight Bangkok Dolls Museum
98
108
FOOD & DRINK 84 Star-Studded Soirée A report from last month’s Michelin Guide announcement 88
Kitchen Backstories From dessert to dye: the ‘Jack’-fruit of all trades
89
Chew On This Is pad Thai, Thai?
90
Eat Like Nym Chinese Thai Curry in Chinatown
91
Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Samantha tells it like it is
92
Restaurant Reviews
98
Breaking Bread with Chef Pat Chawanin Supamoon, Osha
NIGHTLIFE 107 Nightlife Updates
100 Food & Drink Listings Capsule reviews of select restaurants in Bangkok
108 An Interview with Shangela We catch up with Shagela before her much anticpated Bangkok show 110 Nightlife Listings Capsule reviews of selected bars and music venues in Bangkok
SIGNING OFF 108 Did You Know? A look at the Holy Redeemer Church Bangkok
ART DIRECTOR
GENERAL MANAGER
Narong Srisaiya
Jhone El’Mamuwaldi
GRAPHIC DESIGNER
SALES MANAGER
Thanakrit Skulchartchai
Ornuma Promsrikaew
PUBLISHER
STRATEGISTS
DISTRIBUTION & MARKETING
Mason Florence
Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen
COORDINATOR
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHER
EVENT & SPECIAL PROJECTS
Tipparnee Prajakwit
Atom Ongwat
Wasin Banjerdtanakul
MANAGING EDITOR
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
David J. Constable
Jaci Billington, Luc Citrinot, Samantha Proyrungtong, Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa, Tom Vitayakul, Rosalind Yunibandhu
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond
Pichet Ruengjit
EVENT COORDINATOR
EDITOR-AT-LARGE
Joe Cummings EDITORIAL ASSISTANT
Zazithorn Ruengchinda ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Sithasa Kanchanavijaya
Panisara Bunnag
PUBLISHED BY
Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd,Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 Fax: 02 286 7829 info@talisman.asia © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2018. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.
CITY PULSE | metro beat
MUSIC December 12
FATHER’S DAY
December 5
Dad dines for free this Father’s Day (Dec 5th) at Silver Waves Chinese Restaurant at Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok. Treat dad to a free Dim Sum Lunch Buffet with a Come-4-Pay-3 promotion, home to exquisite freshly made dim sum, stunning views and five-star service. The price is B1,150 net per person for adults and B575 net for children), but the fourth person eats free. www.chatrium.com
COLLECTORS Until December 3
The World Stamp Exhibition at Royal Paragon Hall will be one of the world’s highest-profile philatelic events displaying approximately 2,500 frames of exhibits from all FIP member countries, the total value worth over 4,000 Million Baht (100 Million Euros). www.10times.com/ world-stamp-exhibition 8 | DECEMBER 2018
South Korean rapper and singer DPR Live is in Bangkok, performing for one night only at Moonstar Studio (Ladprao Rd) on the 12th. The popular musician released his debut album, Coming to You Live, in March last year, shortly followed by his second album Her towards the end of the year. KOHAI and Pavo Entertainment is excited to welcome DPR Live, as well as the entire DPR crew to Bangkok for DPR’s first ever world tour. Along with DPR Live, renowned producer/ dj DPR Cream and Show Me The Money’s DJ DaQ will be performing. Tickets: B1,200. facebook.com/events/1951971295095185
December 28-31
Get ready for White Party Bangkok at CentralWorld, “Asia’s Largest Gay New Year Festival” produced by Cloud 9 Inc. You can keep track of the event by following #WPBKK2019 on social media. Presale has already started. For more information, visit the website: www.whitepartybangkok.com
RIVER KWAI BRIDGE WEEK Until December 9
This year, the annual Kanchanaburi Red Cross fair at River Kwai Bridge is hosting a massive 10-day festival to commemorates the lives lost during the Second World War. Entertainment at this historical attraction will include a dramatic theatrical live action show with stunts and special effects, “Carnival Fun Fair” amusement rides from Italy and delicacies from all over Thailand at the food festival section and Retro Photo Stations. Other at Peace Concert side features Classic Thai Rock and Funky Pop and Hip-hop by national famous bands. A firework show will take place on December 1st and 7th at 7pm and 8.30pm, weekday show at 7pm. Tickets available at TAT Kanchanaburi Office: 034 511 200, Email: tourismkan@gmail.com bangkok101.com
metro beat | CITY PULSE
COMEDY
FLOWER FESTIVAL December 13
Shangela Laquifa Wadley, the star of Rupaul’s Drag Race, will be in Bangkok on Dec 13th as part of her brand new tour, “Shangela is shook”, presented by LA Comedy Live Presents. Besides being on RPDR, Shangela has been featured on numerous films and TV shows, most recently, she starred alongside Bradley Cooper and Lady Gaga in the hit movie A Star Is Born. Tickets prices vary but start from B1,500 up to B3,000 for VIP. www.thaiticketmajor.com/concert/shangela-is-shook-live-in-bangkok2018-th.html
December 1-10
There are many kinds of flower gardens in all areas of Suanluang Rama 9 Public Park, also including the historical exhibition of Suanluang Rama 9 and art exhibition. At the Suan Luang Rama IX Flowers Festival enjoy the local cultural performances, dog performances, firework presentations and mini amusement park. Visitors can walk around to take pictures with variety of flower gardens in the park and shop for some beautiful flowers and garden equipment including the local food and products from private sectors. www.sawadee.com/thailand/festivals
MUSIC
NEW YEAR’S EVE
December 31
Mega-mall CentralWorld (Ratchaprasong Rd) plays host to the biggest and most famous countdown festival in Bangkok. Participants can experience spectacular light and sound shows and live on-stage performances by popular local artists in front of CentralWorld Square. Also, they can enjoy the beer garden, lucky draws and countdown with other countries around the world on large-screen projections. Countdown party starts at 10pm. There’s also an alm offering ceremony at CentralWorld Square on the New Year Day from 7am onwards. facebook.com/events/133497300662666
December 31
What’s better for this New Year Celebration than authentic American food, draft beer and entertaining activities throughout the night like counting down and dancing with Hard Rock Cafe (Siam Square Soi 11) rock bands “Jogadanz” and “The Boss”, enjoying incredibly wild and fun vibes! Ticket prices: B2,000 per person and B1,000 for under 20s. To book your table, call 02 658 4090 or bangkok_socail@hardrock.com or LINE: @hardrockbkk bangkok101.com
December 1
Brian McFadden and Keith Duffy, part of the multi-platinum, record breaking bands, Westlife and Boyzone, have joined forces to create Boyzlife. This is the thrilling untold story of life in two of the world’s biggest boybands, with the lifelong friends walking the audience through their lives. Together they’ll perform a selection of their biggest hits! Be ready to meet Boyzlife and bring back your good old days in “Boyzlife Live in Bangkok”on 1st December at GMM Live House at Central World Department Store. Tickets range from B1,000 to B3,000. facebook.com/TeenageDreamCorp DECEMBER 2018 | 9
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
SHOP TILL YOU DROP
W
Malls, malls and more malls...
hen it comes to shopping, Bangkok is a place where you can pretty much find anything and everything you could ever want. The sheer amount of markets, malls, shops, and stores is mind-boggling, running the gamut from dirt cheap to preposterously pricey. Much of the city’s consumer culture is centred around malls, which are enjoyed by the general populace as much for their selection as for their airconditioning. Some of the biggest and most popular include Siam Paragon, EmQuartier, and CentralWorld, and in turn these have become undeniable city landmarks. Another city shopping landmark is the Ma Boon Khrong Centre—more popularly known as MBK—which is a sprawling downtown complex that is home to over 2,000 retailers. Another fun favourite, especially for fashion forward university students on a budget, is Union Mall. With eight floors and a total of 150,000 sq.m of space, it houses over 1,200 booths, shops, restaurants, and entertainment services. And we can’t, of course, forget the opening last month of ICONSIAM on the banks of the Chao Phraya. The 54-billion-baht mega-mall project has a gross floor area of 750,000 square metres, comprising two shopping complexes and bringing together 500 retailers in the same venue. Outdoor shopping is also a big deal, and the most famous venue for this is the Chatuchak Weekend Market. But because daytime shopping can prove to be a heated affair most months, nighttime shopping at outdoor venues like the Rod Fai Night Market on Ratchadapisek Road have proven extremely popular as well.
10 | DECEMBER 2018
Community malls are another big thing in Bangkok and almost every major neighbourhood in the city has one. One of the most popular is Asiatique the Riverfront, located down at the Chao Phraya. It contains over 1,500 boutiques and 40 restaurants, but it also boasts three unique performance theatres, and an outdoor amusement park area anchored by the iconic Mekhong ferris wheel. When it comes to niche shopping, specialty stores abound in this manic metropolis, especially those selling clothing and fashion accessories. One of the most popular is Siam Square, a dense warren of boutiques and market stalls selling various apparel. Another popular spot for clothes hounds is the Platinum Fashion Mall on Petchaburi Road, which specialises in wholesale clothing and accessories. This same stretch of Petchaburi Road is also home to Pantip Plaza, Bangkok’s legendary low-cost tech mall. At the opposite end of the spectrum, lovers of objets d’art are drawn in great numbers to River City Bangkok, a four-storey mall overlooking the Chao Phraya that specialises in fine art and antiques with monthly on-site auctions. Bangkok is also a great place when shopping for food, and both Or Tor Kor and Klong Toei fresh markets are world-famous for their eye-popping displays of every edible imaginable. In recent years farmer’s markets have also become popular, especially the K Village Farmers Market, which takes place every second weekend of the month and showcases more than 120 booths. Finally, let’s not forget everyone’s love-to-hate retailer, 7-Eleven, which opened its first shop in Thailand back in 1989 and now boasts over 10,000 outlets across the Kingdom. bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
The Rise of the MEGA MALLS Bangkok’s premiere luxury shopping complexes have redefined this city’s retail experience. CENTRALWORLD Originally called the World Trade Center, the eight-story mall at the corner of Rama I and Ratchadamri Road first opened in 1990. Central Group acquired the property in 2002 and changed the name first to Central World Plaza, and then to CentralWorld in 2005. On 19th May, 2010, the mall was one of the many properties set on fire when the Red Shirt anti-government protesters were forcibly removed after months of demonstrations, which included complete blockage of the Rachaprasong shopping district. But even without this storied history, CentralWorld would still command plenty of attention. The mall occupies around 550,000 sq.m of retail space, making it the largest shopping complex in Thailand—and one of the largest in the world. In short, if you need a shopping fix this is the place. The building is anchored by two large department stores—Zen and Isetan—and approximately 500 other retailers include: Marks & Spencer, Fred Perry, Coach, Calvin Klein, The Body Shop, The North Face and Adidas, to name a few. Add to this beauty salons, dozens of gourmet eateries—including many in the stand-alone Groove@CentralWorld section—and even an indoor ice skating rink, and it’s safe to say that this is not your average mall. Meanwhile, the outdoor square that faces Ratchadamri Road is often used for large-scale events, such as Bangkok’s official New Year’s Eve countdown party. Another big draw here is the SF World Cinema, an upscale movie theatre complex located on the 7th floor with a total of 15 screens, including the new state-of-the-art MX4D experience cinema, and SF Cinema First Class—with 180° adjustable reclining armchairs, blankets, and pillows. And for parents with kids, the Thailand Knowledge Park on the 8th floor provides specialised supervision in an ‘edutainment’ environment. So drop off the kids with a clear conscience and give those credit cards a workout. www.centralworld.co.th
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk
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best of bkk | CITY PULSE
SIAM PARAGON
EMQUARTIER
With easy access from the Siam BTS station, Siam Paragon is both a civic landmark and a beacon of luxury shopping. Opened in 2005, it’s a joint venture by Siam Piwat, the company that owns the adjacent Siam Center and Siam Discovery shopping malls, and The Mall Group—who own several other retail properties in Thailand. Siam Paragon itself contains over 250 shops, with the main floor boasting retail outlets from such luxury designer brands, such as Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Chanel, Burberry, Jim Thompson, Bulgari, Mont Blanc and Versace. Not to be outdone, the next level up is home to such iconic brands like Paul Smith, Armani, Hugo Boss, Gap, Swarovski and H&M. But it’s perhaps the 3rd floor that really causes jaws to drop, with its indoor car showrooms displaying gleaming vehicles from Aston Martin, Lotus, BMW, Maserati, Ferrari and Lamborghini. Needless to say, this mall caters to well-heeled Thais and international visitors with the urge to splurge. Of course, not everyone is here just to shop, as the mall is also home to many interesting entertainment attractions. The popular Sea Life Bangkok Ocean World aquarium—Southeast Asia’s largest—is located on the basement level and covers approximately 10,000 sq.m, with hundreds of different marine life species on display—in exhibits that make use of about 5,000,000 litres of water. Meanwhile, further up on the 5th floor, Blu-O Rhythm & Bowl is a 38-lane bowling alley, with karaoke rooms and a restaurant. There’s also a 15-screen Paragon Cineplex, which includes the Enigma cinema, a VIP treatment candle-lit lounge with full bar and sofa-bed seating. Finally, Siam Paragon’s Food Hall and Gourmet Market are not-to-be-missed foodie experiences, while the plethora of delectable name brand dining options includes such talked about restaurants as Bombyx by Jim Thompson, the Clinton Street Baking Company Bangkok, and the newest branch of La Crêperie.
Opened in May of 2015, EmQuartier is part of The Mall Group’s multi-billion-baht ‘EM District’ project that will transform the area around the Phrom Phong BTS station into one of the biggest retail hubs in Bangkok. Together with the already popular Emporium Shopping Mall, which opened in 1997, this enclave of high-end shops could easily become an all-day shop-a-thon for those with room on their credit cards. With futuristic design— covering 4,000 sq.m of floor space—plus dozens of restaurants, offices, event halls and a cool atrium garden with waterfall, EmQuartier continues to draw Instagram-happy visitors. Shopping options lean towards the more luxurious brands, with designers like Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Jimmy Choo and Fendi all having presence on the ground floor and second floor levels. Higher up brands such as Zara, Uniqlo, H&M and Gap offer plenty of retail therapy. The mall itself is split into three zones: The Glass Quartier, The Helix Quartier and The Waterfall Quartier. The Helix, as it’s known, contains over 50 restaurants, all accessed by a spiral multi-storey walkway. Choose among Chinese at Man Fu Yuan, seafood at Crab & Claw, grilled meats at The Chop, or any of the multitude of other dining options. Another highlight is the Quartier Cine-Art that consists of four cinema options, including the full luxury Aeon experience, with bed-like seating and snacks from Dean & Deluca. In contrast, the Emporium is no less luxurious. Within this nine-storey complex you’ll find established fashion favourites such as Diesel, Dior, Alexander Wang, Miu Miu, and Victoria’s Secret, as well as upscale local designers such as Misty Minx and Jim Thompson. There’s also plenty of food choices, and in fact floors 6 through 9 are just restaurants. You can also catch a film here at the 5th floor SF Cinema, and splurge on the new Emprive Cineclub VIP screening room
www.siamparagon.co.th
www.emquartier.co.th | www.emporium.co.th
bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2018 | 15
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
GAYSORN VILLAGE Last September, Gaysorn Village held a very lavish Grand Opening party to celebrate the property’s new branding and direction. Located at the corner of Ploenchit and Ratchadamri roads, and spanning over 180,000 sq.m, this new interconnected “village” includes: Gaysorn Tower, an eco-friendly office tower; Amarin Plaza, a hub for great shopping and dining; and the Gaysorn Shopping Centre, home to the world’s finest fashion and accessory brands— Bally, Brooks Brothers, Tag Heuer, Davidoff and many more. Meanwhile, to the north, the Gaysorn Walk also offers visitors to access the city’s famed Pratunam area, for even more shopping selection. There’s also plenty of amazing wining and dining outlets within this venerable shopping complex, including Paste, Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar, and the newly opened Bangkok branch of the London-based Burger & Lobster chain. www.gaysornvillage.com
CENTRAL EMBASSY Back in May 2014, when Central Embassy—located at the junction of Wireless and Ploen Chit roads— first threw open its doors to the public, expectations were high. And while no one could argue that the futuristic design and minimalist white interior was impressive, foot traffic in the 144,000 sq.m mall was a little slow at first. Even the more than 200 luxury brands, including Christian Louboutin, Givenchy, Sander, Moschino, Mulberry, Tom Ford and Pomellato weren’t luring in as many shoppers as expected. However, time is a great healer and now the mall has become a true shopping destination locale. The EatThai upscale food court, which takes up much of the basement level, gradually became a much talked about foodie hot spot, and this past year the opening of the Siwilai City Club and the super-cool 6th floor Open House has breathed new life into the complex. Another 16 | DECEM BER 2018
consistent draw has been the über-luxurious Embassy Diplomat Screens at the 6th floor Cineplex. In addition, all this renewed public interest in Central Embassy has certainly benefitted the many deserving dining spots in the mall, such as the Water Library restaurant, Ippudo Ramen, Somboon Seafood, Issaya La Pâtisserie and Audrey Café Glamour. www.centralembassy.com
CENTRAL CHIDLOM This grand old dame of the Bangkok shopping scene—it’s been around since 1973—may be, of late, overshadowed by some of its flashier neighbours, but with seven floors of luxury products and notable restaurants it still holds its own. Located at 1027 Phloen Chit Rd.
THE ESPLANADE Providing sheltered shopping when it’s too wet or too early to visit the adjacent Rod Fai Night Market Ratchada, this seven-storey mall covers all the bases— fashion, accessories, plenty of restaurant options, and a 12 screen Major Cineplex cinema on the top floor. Located at 99 Ratchadaphisek Rd. (MRT Thailand Cultural Centre).
SHOW DC Yes, it’s a shopping mall, but Show DC—located near the RCA entertainment district—also offers a huge range of entertainment-based attractions, including a live music concert hall, a modern sports arena and a 45 minute 4D walkthrough show of holographic images and other extraordinary audio-visuals showing scenes from Buddhist mythology. Free shuttle bus services from the MRT Thailand Cultural Centre.
MEGA BANG NA It’s a little out of the way, but there’s a free shuttle bus service from BTS Udom Suk that brings you right here, and the bus also makes a stop at the nearby IKEA, which is, for some, the real reason to venture out this far. bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
bangkok101.com
DECEM BER 2018 | 17
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Second-Hand TREASURE TROVES Do the planet a favour and give second-hand clothes a new lease on life.
I
ncreasingly over the past few years, the topic of ethical and environment-friendly ways of life has become the talk of, well, the entire world—one of the main points being our eating practises. But while vegans and vegetarians butt heads with meat eaters daily, ranting and raving over the detrimental effects the meat industry has on the environment, there is one activity that we all partake in that has an equally as devastating effect on the environment: buying new clothes. In the 2015 fashion documentary The True Cost, the harrowing truth about the fashion industry and its severe impact on both cheap labour and the environment was exposed. Mainstream clothing retailers are now taking current catwalk trends to the public faster than ever before, a term coined “fast fashion”. The stock on the shelves is constantly changing and new items are being added regularly—leading to us, the consumers, buying more and inadvertently throwing more clothes away because they are no longer considered “fashionable”. And landfills are growing bigger as a result. Adding more fuel to the ever-polluting fire, not only is the fashion industry one of the most resource and labour-intensive industries in the world, but according to the Pulse of the Fashion Industry Report—compiled by the Global Fashion Agenda and the Boston Consulting Group and released earlier this year in May—in 2015 the fashion industry contributed a staggering 1,715 million tons of carbon dioxide emissions. Which is not surprising.
18 | DECEMBER 2018
bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
Bangkok mega-mall makes grand debut.
A
s if timed perfectly, the much-anticipated opening of Iconsiam took place last month, just in time for festive shopping. The opening ceremony by HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn was attended by hundreds of thousands of people lining the riverbanks to watch the grand unveiling, followed by a spectacular fireworks display and a surprise performance by music legend Alicia Keys. A new chapter of “destination development” has now been written with the opening of the mega-mall, a building destined to wow shoppers and surely positions Bangkok firmly on the map of global city shopping, up there with the very best. “Iconsiam is a destination born out of a great joint creative effort that has united the hearts of Thai people from many different walks of life. These people are capable and knowledgeable. They are from local communities around the country and include experts in various disciplines from many countries who love Thailand and want to contribute to a new symbol that can represent the vision of an era and be something that makes Thai people feel proud of being Thai, helps preserve and present Thainess for the next generation, while also making visitors from around the world fall in love and be impressed with Thailand.” Chadatip Chutrakul, an Iconsiam director www.iconsiam.com
bangkok101.com
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CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Christmas Tree
SHOPPING
A few handy options for buying and delivering that all important festive tree. BIG C
Although known for catering more to a Thai crowd, Big C still embraces the Western winters and come festive season, sells fake snow, Christmas decorations and of course, trees. With an assortment of sizes and styles, they cater across the board, although all are artificial. The smallest and cheapest tree is a one-foot artificial pine for B179 and the tallest and most expensive tree is a seven-foot artificial pine for B2,790. www.bigc.co.th
THAI WATSADU
As one of Thailand’s largest home improvement centres, Thai Watsadu has a loyal following selling everything from construction materials to home decorations. Now, you can add Christmas trees to the list, with four different sizes available, all real and imported from Canada: five-to-six foot, six-to-seven foot, seven-to-eight foot and eight-to-nine foot. The trees, though, are only available in one style, what they call Kassa Home. www.thaiwatsadu.com
IKEA
The first-choice furniture location for many, IKEA has built a loyal fanbase in Thailand and with an impressive Christmas display, it has also become the first choice for festive tree and decoration shopping, too. They don’t offer the most impressive Christmas trees in town, yet 22 | DECEMBER 2018
bangkok101.com
best of bkk | CITY PULSE
their Fejka Artificial Pine does come in three handy sizes: 200cm at B3,990, 180cm at B1,990 and 155cm at B1,170. Plus, if you’re buying your tree here, then what better place to pick up your accessories as well. Maybe a shiny star or a fairy to go on top of the Christmas tree? www.ikea.com/th/en
TRIUMPH TREE
One of the world’s leading manufacturers of artificial Christmas trees, Triumph Tree is a global institution, making and shipping trees all over the world. They also supply many of the department stores in Bangkok. It’s also easy to shop on their website, scanning through hundreds of festive options, however, beware as they do not list prices online. They are also located in Bangpu, Samut Prakan, about an hour drive from the heart of Bangkok. www.triumphtree.co.th
HOW TO GET HOME DELIVERY
If you don’t have a car to take your Christmas tree home in, then consider hiring a delivery service. Kerry Express can pick up and deliver your tree to anywhere in Thailand. If you live in Bangkok, they’ll probably be able to deliver the tree the same day. To get a quote, call 1217 and tell them where the tree is and where it’s going. www.th.kerryexpress.com/th/home bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2018 | 23
CITY PULSE | best of bkk
Bangkok Sparkle This festive season, take to the malls, hotels and even the river, to witness some of the city’s most impressive Christmas displays. Words by Jaci Billington
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eople in Thailand might be dominantly Buddhist, but that hasn’t stopped anyone from getting into the swing of Christmas. In fact, Thais take the holiday season very seriously indeed. During this season, hotels are booked to the brim with Christmas vacationers, and shopping malls blast carols at maximum volume almost 24/7. In Bangkok, however, nothing steals the show like the Christmas lights displays. Wherever you look, you’d be hard-pressed not to catch at least a twinkle from a single fairy light. These bright bulbs are adorned everywhere, from bridges and trees to the neighbourhood tuk-tuks and shopping stalls. Thais tend to let their creative juices flow when decorating for the holidays, and it definitely shows. Here are some of the best places in the city to see some incredible light shows and get you into the Christmas spirit.
SIAM PARAGON
Among all the places in Bangkok where you can expect to find the most extravagant and expensive holiday set up, Siam Paragon is high on the list. In 2014, the mall was
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recognised by Quartz as “The Most Instagrammed Place in the World”. Managers at Siam Paragon start putting up their signature Christmas tree as early as November. Made of steel and elegant glass lights formed into a tree shape, it’s a sight to behold while you’re making your holiday shopping rounds. It can also be seen from the sky train, which makes for another beautiful view, particularly when lit up at night.
THE CHAO PHRAYA RIVER
To truly appreciate this spectacle, take a boat up the Chao Phraya River during the holiday season. USA Today recommends doing this to see Thailand at its “most romantic”. As you ride, you’ll come across many houses adorned with sparkling lights and dancing Santas on the roofs. Watch as the lights reflect off the river for a magically serene Christmas moment.
THE PENINSULA HOTEL
Locals and foreigners alike flock to the Peninsula Hotel to witness its majestic display, so much
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that it currently holds the “Most Photographed Christmas Lights” title in all of Bangkok. They’ve got their own gingerbread house and reindeer barn too, so you’ve got a wealth of photo opportunities. The Peninsula Hotel is also known for flying in an enormous Christmas pine tree from Canada.
SUKHUMVIT
This commercial district is home to numerous high-end apartments, bars, restaurants, and more. Make your way down the main Bangkok road and be treated to a grand light display. You’ll see Christmas trees made entirely out of lights, reindeers, and walking Santa Clauses making their rounds. Because it’s a major road in Bangkok, it’s quite notorious for its traffic jams, but the displays make for a less dreary commute during the holidays. Don’t forget to wear comfy shoes though, as it’s definitely a walk fest on this extensive thoroughfare.
CENTRALWORLD SQUARE
Here, you’ll find the largest Christmas tree stationed right in front of CentralWorld Sq u ar e . It i s a l s o located right next to a beer garden, where local retailers set up shops to provide
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refreshments for nightly live concerts throughout December.
EMQUARTIER AND EMPORIUM
For something a bit outside the usual holiday attractions, make your way to Winter Wonderland at EmQuartier and Emporium, also located in Sukhumvit. The two venues partner up every year to present 12-metertall polar bears, coupled with Christmas-themed 3D mapping you won’t find anywhere else. You can also hit up Benjasiri Park next door, which turns into a symphony of light this time of year, enhanced by illuminated sculptures during the holidays.
RATCHAPRASONG AREA
This area is so populated with malls and establishments that you can just walk around and be treated to plenty of Christmas eye candy. Make sure to cover Amarin Plaza, Gaysorn Plaza, and Central Chidlom because these stores tend to go all out with their holiday installations. Again, make sure to wear your most comfortable attire because going around this crowded area can be draining. If you can visit on December 5th—King Bhumibol Adulyadej’s birthday—expect to see and hear store employees sing the Thai national anthem complete with an impressive candle vigil.
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special feature | CITY PULSE
Gold-Mining BLACK CAVIAR
A Thai-Russian duo have set up a sturgeon-breeding farm in the resort town of Hua-Hin, set to be Southeast Asia’s most reliable source of sustainable, high-grade caviar. Words by David J. Constable
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lexey Tyutin remembers when the only caviar available in Thailand was smuggled into the country in tightly-wrapped, tightly-bound roles of bubble-wrap and t-shirts. Now, years later, and Tyutin—with partner Noppadon Khamsai—operate the Thai Sturgeon Farm Co. Ltd in Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan Province. Seeing an opportunity in Asia’s growing demand for caviar, the businessmen decided to build a sturgeon-breeding farm with the capacity of producing 1.5 tonnes of black caviar a year, selling within Thailand and across the Asian market. Unfortunately, it is not as easy to breed sturgeon in simulated conditions as, for instance, salmon or carp. Sturgeon are susceptible to water pollution levels and rarely spawn in captivity. Despite existing for millions of years—dating back to the Triassic, some 245 million years ago—sturgeon are a reluctant, somewhat needy bunch.
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CITY PULSE | special feature
What makes the Thai Sturgeon Farm an even more unique operation is the fact that the giant sturgeon are a cross-breed, a mix of Siberian and Osietra. The farm’s technology was developed by certified ichthyologists and engineers, including Dr Vasily Krasnoborodsko—the most well known fish-breeding specialist in Russia—and uses new technology to help increase the endangered sturgeon population. The team operate around-the-clock under highly scientific conditions, controlling everything from a particular feed from Denmark—they get through a whopping 63,000 kg annually—to water temperature and filtration, oxygen generators and even the use of cesarean equipment to check the progress of the egg build-up. Part of the on-hand, on-site team also includes Tyutin’s son, Alexander, who lives close to the farm. Impressively, the farm also employs closed recirculation aquaculture systems that allow them to decrease electricity usage. The roof of the farm’s building, in which the sturgeon are housed, is lined with solar panels, resulting in 35 per cent of saved energy. The estimated cost of the entire operation is thought to be around US$3 million. “Traditionally, caviar was taken from wild sturgeon caught in the Caspian Sea,” Tyutin tells me. “Now, the fish is on the endangered species list and catching it for caviar is banned. So presently all caviar legally produced in the Russian Federation comes from fish farms.” As a Russian, Tyutin has always had a profound obsession with caviar. The tiny pearls seem to hold a spell over many in Russia who, during the Soviet era, saw the country produce around 1,000 tonnes of black caviar a year. Now, with sturgeon over-fished and under threat, the whole world produces only 350 tonnes. “When I was young I used to go to a shop that was full of caviar. They’d put it on the scales and pour in into containers. Back then, black caviar was very cheap,” recalls Tyutin.
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CITY PULSE | special feature
One of the main outputs of the Thai Sturgeon Farm is actually less about the final product of caviar, and more about the sturgeon themselves. Caviar is a delicious and sort after byproduct, but what about the rest of the sturgeon? The Oyster Bar is one of only a few restaurants in Bangkok that use the whole sturgeon, making use of the entire beast and offering a full nose-to-tail experience. “What makes the farm so unique”, says Billy Marinelli, a marine biologist and restauranteur behind The Oyster Bar, “is the closed system. It’s solar powered and organic, with minimum environmental impact. It is the first closed system, organic, solar powered fish farm in Thailand—that’s a major fist for any country.” The idea of tackling a prehistoric sturgeon, skinning, deboning and slicing and dicing away at the flesh can be a daunting one. Sturgeon have an extended, spindle-shaped body structure and its skin is covered with bony plates running up and down the body in five rows. Perhaps it’s a lack in education with many chefs preferring the flesh of other fish; however, the sturgeon’s body contains a significant amount of fat located between the muscles, and this inter-muscular layer of fat help to improve the taste of the meat.
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Boiled cartilage can also be added to soups, and old Russian recipes would often use the cartilaginous skeletal rod of the sturgeon for the stuffing of pies. Indeed, Russia’s own Mrs Beeton, Elena Molohovets, in her book, Gift for Young Housewives, published in 1861, includes a recipe for Sturgeon & Salmon Pie. The sturgeon industry, however, isn’t solely concentrated on consumption. A high-quality glue, a wine clarification tool and even beer, are all produced from the sturgeon swimmingbladder. Caviar is also used in the cosmetics industry, applied in the manufacturing of masks and creams to aid the stimulation of collagen and elastin. Yet, it’s the product’s culinary application that continues to fascinate and build momentum in Thailand. Over the past few years, the demand for caviar has increased significantly despite it being considered a luxury product. Chefs are subverting the stereotype that it’s only for the superrich, and the likes of the Thai Sturgeon Farm and the Royal Project in Chang Mai are promoting the farming of sturgeon. Sure, there are gastronomic palaces, like Le Normandie and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, that make room on their menus for the by-the-ounce opulence with a modernist spin, but you’re just as likely to see caviar paired with potato chips, fries and fried chicken. Bunker in Sathorn serves black caviar on tater tots. Sturgeon fishing and farming is a very profitable business compared to other fishery activities, often viewed as “gold-mining”. It is, however, a business of patience, waiting between seven to 11 years for females to reach the age of puberty.
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To get 1.5 tonnes of black caviar, it is necessary to keep at least 29 tonnes of females. The Thai Sturgeon Farm started with 14 kilos of sturgeon and now has over 27.6 tonnes, all achieved at the surprisingly fast rate of only 28 months. “The design and science behind the farm are brilliant,” continues Billy. “They’ll be able to harvest the same fish for 10 or even 20 years.” Aside from already selling sturgeon meat, caviar will eventually be offered to luxury restaurants, hotel chains and cruise ships. Black caviar will be sold by Tyutin and Khamsai under the label “Crown of the Russian Empire” with the two businessmen already importing caviar from partners’ farms in Russia and China under Caviar House Co. Ltd, which the two founded in 2015. Because of Thai import conditions—20 per cent due and 7 per cent VAT—the farm can guarantee that their caviar will be cheaper than imported while remaining at the same high level.
For those in Thailand with a ravenous appetite for caviar it’s a waiting game, but know that the “gold-mining” is well underway. Now, we wait. www.sturgeon.co.th
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SNAPSHOTS | now new next
Angkrit Ajchariyasophon Juggling artistry and commerce, a young Thai artist/gallerist switches between prodigy and productivity.
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ew artists can straddle upon dual roles of artistry and commerce. Angkrit Ajchariyasophon switches his hats from artist to art dealer with aplomb because of his deep understanding of the inner workings of artists’ physics and psyche. Born in Chiang Rai in 1976, Angkrit always liked drawing. He recalls, “I was fortunate to live near Thawan Duchanee’s (a late National Artist) house and in the class with his son, Doithibet. Uncle Thawan has a unique personal style. When we were about to take the university entrance exam, he as well his assistant taught us to draw and some backgrounds in art history from ancient civilisations.” Angkrit continues, “I learned a 32 | DECEM BER 2018
lot from Ajarn Thawan, but in Chiang Mai University, I questioned other aesthetic styles and media usage like conceptual and installation art by artists like Montien Boonma and Mit Jai Inn. After graduation in 2000, I became a full-time artist and also worked at my family restaurant. I started to show at an exhibition organised by Kamin Lertchaiprasert. My styles vary a lot because I like experimenting. I don’t want to imitate nature like painting landscapes. I prefer to seek the truth within—in our humanity and in abstract forms.” On abstraction, he clarifies, “My college roommate likes meditation, which I didn’t understand. I learned it and became interested in abstract works and portraits. Art has two
realms: physical and spiritual— outside and inside. I create art for both conceptual and social commentary purposes, so I also have two aspects. I have to interact with people when I work at the restaurant. I converse and gain energy from them. But then I get to be introspective when I work on self-portraits and abstract art. I regain balance when I understand myself more in both physical and spiritual realms. I enjoy working with my own hands and mental capacity, not hiring someone else to do my job.” Some of Angkrit’s most recognisable works are his selfportraits. Questioning about northern villagers’ crafts and their duplicates, he used wooden bangkok101.com
now new next | SNAPSHOTS
sculptures of animals and placed his own faces upon them. He explains, “I changed these crafted pieces to make them unlike one another. Self-portraits make us reflect ourselves. In Buddhism, it’s about self-awareness, deep emotions, senses, and equanimity. I contemplate, meditate, observe, record, and keep my own thoughts. Later these paintings of abstract lines help calm and clear my mind like pathways where monks practice their walking meditation.”
NOW NEW NEXT Join Bangkok-born but internationally bred aesthete Dr. Tom Vitayakul as he meets with creative minds and artistic souls from both Thailand and overseas. From traditional, to contemporary and avant-garde, he finds out about the visions, inspirations, and creations of these talented individuals. bangkok101.com
In Bangkok Biennial 2018, Angkrit exhibited two different series. One shows an ensemble of red flags, a socio-political commentary on his feelings after the coup d’état. He articulates, “Without freedom, art cannot be expressed. If artists who are among the leaders in intellect and ideas in our society aren’t brave enough to voice their views, then how can others? So it’s my way to convey as an individual instead of protesting in the crowd.” On the opposite wall, a large canvas of rainbow colours juxtaposes what God promised to Noah in Genesis. However, the spectrum has an alternate meaning in Angkrit’s language. He shares, “Different colours represent perspectives of truth. Through a prism, clear light gives a spectrum of the rainbow. Clarity is the truth that one can’t see and we only see one side of it. Faiths and beliefs can shift, and change and truth comes in different shades, not black and white. I have friends from diverse ideologies, but I see humans rather than partisans. I see them as friends without believing in the same thing. In my series ‘Shades of Red,’ red hues from 100-baht banknotes provide a plurality of tones. So from dissimilar perspectives, angles, and depths, we interpret different things. Like asking the blind to feel up an
elephant, none can feel or see the whole picture, but only parts of the truth.” In 2008 Angkrit founded an eponymous gallery in Chiang Rai, starting with an exhibition for his friend, Uten Mahamid. Then in 2016, he decided to open the ARTIST+RUN Gallery in Bangkok to show carefullycurated contemporary works from older and younger generations of artists. He comments, “I want this to be a commercial gallery with good art for inspiration and benefits, to fulfil our society and our inner psyche. In Thailand’s art world, there are no particular systems and still many missing links. With many good artists, we lack good representatives, galleries, and middlemen. Our culture should make viewing modern and visual art more approachable.” Angkrit concludes, “I want the public to open their mind. Art isn’t difficult to understand. It’s fantastic to have big art exhibitions like Bangkok Art Biennale and others in one year to boost energy and stimulation, but we need sustainability and momentum as well. Then we need more education, publications, media, and archiving for future research among students and curators. I am serious about how to bridge art and our livelihood.” DECEMBER 2018 | 33
SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok
Dedicated Follower of Fashion
While Bangkok abounds with haberdashers flogging custom made-to-measure tailored suits, it can sometimes be difficult finding those that are truly a “cut above”.
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ailor shops are as prolific as massage parlours in Bangkok, and in both industries service ranges from shoddy to excellent. A good tailor pairs a wide variety of quality fabrics with precise, on-time, in-fashion cutting skills. It’s not easy to pick one, since a good modiste doesn’t have to advertise—their reputation precedes them in well-dressed circles around town. Shirts and trousers can be turned around in two to three days with only one fitting. A jacket or a suit—jacket and trousers—takes two or three sittings to get the best results. A bespoke suit in Bangkok costs from B10,000 for synthetics or
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natural/synthetic blends, to B18,000 for 100 percent wool or cashmere. Tailor-made silk shirts and blouses should cost B1,000 to B2,000. Be warned that most of the “cotton” offered by Bangkok tailors is actually a blend of cotton and a synthetic, and honest tailors will mention this up front. Bring your own fabric if you want to be assured of 100 per cent cotton. If you like the feel, Thai and Chinese silks are a popular, reasonably priced choice of fabric. Special deals advertising four shirts, two suits, a kimono, and a safari suit all in one package almost always turn out to be of inferior materials and workmanship With the preliminaries out
of the way, here are a few spots I recommend based on either personal experience or the experiences of people I trust. If you decide to ignore this carefully curated list and strike out on your own, avoid any shop that employs street solicitation, whether it’s someone standing in front of the shop saying “Hello sir, how about a new suit?” or taxi and tuk-tuk drivers promising big discounts and a farefree ride. Other red flags include hard-to-believe prices and 12-hour turnaround times. SIAM EMPORIUM One of the city’s oldest continually running tailor shops in the city, bangkok101.com
joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS
Siam Emporium started up at Siam Center in 1976, and now owns its own corner building on Sukhumvit. Fair prices for detailed work, broad fabric selection, and excellent customer service draws a loyal repeat clientele. I always deal with a kindly Sikh named Jit. Women as well as men are well-served here. 170 Sukhumvit Rd (corner of Sukhumvit Soi 8) Tel: 02 253 3421 www.siamemporium.net
RAJAWONGSE CLOTHIER Run by a father and son, Rajawongse Clothier has cut suits for the likes of US presidents, scores of diplomats, and state department officials. The narrow storefront isn’t showy, though; like most of its neighbours, it appears to be a nondescript hole-in-the-wall. But inside, the one-room shop is nearly bursting with the bolts of Egyptian cotton, wool and wool-cashmere blends that are used to complete their made-to-measure creations, which range from shirts and trousers to full suits.
LALA DULY Famed for their impeccable cotton dress shirts, Lala Duly specialises in classic yet stylish looks for discerning gents. There are myriad customisations to make here, as the outfitter offers 22 collar designs, 10 cuff options, and sharp details from buttonhole colours to yoke styles to dart angles. If you want an entire suit to go with your new shirt, they can also accommodate you here. On the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 49 and 49/3, 800 metres from Sukhumvit Road.
named Perry), and in business since the mid-1970s, Perry’s Tailor Shop uses top-notch cloths imported from European textile mills such as Ermenegildo, Zegna, and Dormeuil. Their reputation is legendary among dandies, and they boast an incredible array of high-society customers, including none other than the always dapper Duke of Edinburgh. On Silom Road next to Sala Daeng BTS station, opposite Silom Complex.
Tel: 02 662 6647 www.laladuly.co.th
PINKY TAILOR Another established couturier, Mr. Pinky of Pinky Tailor has been crafting clothing for men and women in Bangkok since 1980. While he’s happy to take measurements at your home, office, or hotel room, it’s better to visit his workshop at Mahatun Plaza Arcade, which boasts three entire floors of fabrics. I have a few friends who swear by Pinky.
888/40 Ploenchit Rd (Mahatun Plaza Arcade) Tel: 02 253 6328 TAILOR ON TEN Situated in a charming, spacious www.pinkytailor.com
house at the end of Sukhumvit Soi 8, Tailor on Ten is one of only two clothiers in the city under Western management—owners Alex (Canadian) and Nike (German) founded the company in 2010 and create premium garments using the highest quality fabrics available from Italy, England, and Ireland. Unlike many Bangkok-based tailors, the guys here produce all of the products on the premises with their team of inhouse cutters, stitchers, and quality control personnel, so you can rest easy knowing your fancy new duds were produced fairly. Don’t make the mistake of thinking it’s on Sukhumvit Award-winning writer Joe Cummings Soi 10; it’s on Soi 8. 130 Sukhumvit Rd (near the Landmark Hotel) Tel 02 255 3714 www.dress-for-success.com
Joe’s Bangkok
was born in New Orleans but became one of Lonely Planet’s first guidebook authors, creating the seminal Lonely Planet Thailand guide, as well as several other titles and updates for the region. Each month, he picks out his favourite cultural gems throughout Bangkok. bangkok101.com
Tel: 02 233 9236 perry.tailor@gmail.com
93, Sukhumvit Soi 8 Tel: 084 877 1543 www.tailoronten.com
EMBASSY SUIT GALLERY I originally turned up at Embassy Suit Gallery on Soi Lang Suan last year because I needed a linen suit for a friend’s wedding with only a few days’ notice, and I’d heard they offered quality work with quick fittings and delivery. They helped me choose a sturdy yet light linen that I’ve been very happy with, and the cut was super—better than what I was used to at my regular tailor across town. And I took delivery of the suit in three days, coming for fittings on Friday and Sunday and picking up the suit on Monday. I’ve since had two pairs of slacks made here and am very happy with their skills, pricing, and speedy turnaround time. One of the managers is a very knowledgeable American named Howard.
PERRY’S TAILOR SHOP O w n e d a n d o p e r a t e d b y 29/1 Piya Place, Soi Lang Suan septuagenarian twin brothers Tel: 086 030 3789 Narong and Phonchai (and no one www.embassysuitgallery.com
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SNAPSHOTS | heritage
ICONSIAM:
Heritage in the Making The grand opening of the much-anticipated Iconsiam by HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindorn saw another addition to the city’s world-class landmarks, but in years to come will the mall be seen as a heritage icon of the 21st century?
I
t is the mall of all the superlatives, a total investment of 54 billion Thai Baht, the equivalent to 1.6 billion US dollars, and the most significant private investment to date in Bangkok. Yes, Iconsiam has finally arrived. The 525,000 m2 of retail shopping space includes 500 brands spread across 12 floors in two different malls, dedicated to luxury brands. Talking brands, Iconsiam does not forget its role in promoting Thai brands. There are some 7,000 of them displayed in the mall. Mrs Chadatip Chutrakul, Director of Iconsiam, highlighted her
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ambitions: “Iconsiam is a destination, born out of a great joint creative effort that united the hearts of Thai people. All are indeed sharing a love and passion for Thailand. A team of more than 1,000 people contributed to a new symbol that can represent the vision of an era, and be something to make Thai people proud of being Thai. It is a symbol that helps to preserve and to present ‘Thainess’ for the next generations, and that will impress visitors from around the world and make them fall in love with Thailand.” Urban Architect Co., Ltd. were appointed to create the overall
design, with the exterior mimicking folds of silk while the facade on the river, reminiscent of a giant Krathong (crown). The piece de resistance, however, can be found inside the mall: two transparent pavilions with their golden ceilings supported by 16-metre gilded pillars. The pillars are covered with delicate patterns from Thai national artist Preecha Thaothong. The patterns follow the aesthetics and philosophy of the mythical Suvarnabhumi—the “Golden Land”—which described this part of the world in ancient times. Another artist, Thavorn Koudomvit, created the elegant bangkok101.com
heritage | SNAPSHOTS
Historic
Bangkok Paris native, Luc Citrinot, has lived in Southeast Asia for the past 12 years. A seasoned traveller, he writes about tourism, culture and architecture. He was instrumental on a recent EU-endorsed project to establish the European Heritage Map of Bangkok and subsequent app covering all of Thailand. He still travels extensively in Southeast Asia, looking particularity for new architectural gems related to colonial and European history. bangkok101.com
‘Pillars of Auspiciousness’ decorated with real leaves and covered in gold powder. There are also sculptures and unique chandeliers as well as Thai traditional arts. Culture is also expressed through temporary exhibitions. Until the end of the year, four leading designers: Jirat Subpisankul, Wisharawish Akarasantisook, T-Ra Chantasawasdee and Platt Srilalitsoi will showcase their art installations made of silk fabrics called “Concentration”. The ambition of Chadatip Chutrakul is to showcase the best of Thai culture and lifestyle. A river park offers surrounding communities and visitors an open space with fabulous panoramic views across the Chao Phraya River. The mall's most spectacular attraction is a multimedia water and fire installation created by Spanish company, Ghesa.
The multi-lighting coloured fountain is Southeast Asia's longest and definitely a fairy-style draw at night. Located on the ground floor of the mall, Sook Siam has recreated the atmosphere of Thailand’s regions, from silk and cotton clothing to jewels, design and food. Sook Siam plays a social role in conceiving a platform to help small enterprises, artisans, artists, and performers from the 77 Thai provinces gain greater awareness. Next July, Iconsiam will also inaugurate the River Museum Bangkok, dubbed to be Thailand’s first world-class museum complex highlighting Siam and Thai art. Here is the question though: will Iconsiam one day be considered a heritage site of Bangkok? Who can really say, but let’s all enjoy it while we can. www.iconsiam.com DECEMBER 2018 | 37
Khao Phing Kan (better known as “James Bond Island”) in Phang Nga Bay, northeast of Phuket.
PHUKET 101 T
he island of Phuket is a picture postcard tropical paradise. It’s sheer size—it measures 576 sq.km—qualifies it as the largest island in Thailand, and the western “sunset” coast is blessed with endless stretches of turquoise ocean and gleaming white sand. Phuket’s overwhelming success is due in part to the fact that, for tourists, every whim is catered to. Whether you want to book a room at a high-end resort or just plunk yourself down in a modest beachside guesthouse, there are accommodations of every type dotting the island. For the really adventurous, check out the Maiton Private Island—on Koh Maiton, the Andaman Sea’s most extensive private island—which is about 9 km from Phuket. It’s less of a resort, and more like a family-run Airbnb, offering kayaking, snorkelling, dolphin-sighting trips and outdoor massages with a view. Foodies, meanwhile, will appreciate the abundance of culinary choices in Phuket—with more amazing restaurants opening up each year. Well established eateries such as Acqua, The Boathouse and Blue Elephant have long been on everyone’s restaurant radar, but newer venues such as Pru—the farm-to-table F&B outlet at the fabulous Trisara Resort—are bringing a new wave of dining trends to the island. And, with Michelin stretching beyond Bangkok in last month’s Guide, including Phuket and Phang-Nga, there is even more reason to book your trip around the island’s abundance of award-winning culinary offerings. But there’s more to Phuket than just fancy hotels, decadent dining and a thriving tourist trade. The island is home to sizeable mountains, jungle rainforests and almost 400,000 inhabitants who have made the island their home for multiple generations. The locals also boast a unique culture and heritage—evident in everything from the fiery southern cuisine to the peaceful co-existence of native Buddhist and Muslim populations. As for outdoor activities, watersports lead the way with an abundance of dive shops offering scuba and snorkelling trips, while a thriving surfing scene takes advantage of the big waves rolling in each day at Kata Beach. Not far away, a spectacular stretch of white sand coupled with big waves rolling in all day also make Karon Beach irresistible. Further north, Nai Yang and Nai Thon are gorgeous beachfronts within a short drive from the two-terminal Phuket International Airport, which handles a vast amount of international and domestic flights daily. For getting around on land, taxis are plentiful, but the prices are steep compared to Bangkok, with an hour-long trip to Patong from the airport starting at about B800. Motorcycles are available for rent, but be sure to wear your helmet and carry your driver’s license at all times, as police perform random road inspections. There are also local buses and songtaews—pick-up trucks with bench seating in the back—available, running from Patong and Karon Beach to Phuket Town.
TRAVEL | phuket - see & do
WHAT TO SEE &
WHAT TO DO
JAMES BOND ISLAND
Explore one of the most famous islands in Thailand by speedboat from Phuket. Khao Phing Kan—more commonly known as “James Bond Island”—is the filming location for the 1974 film, The Man with the Golden Gun. This area is also a popular destination for sailing as well as kayaking. Most of the organised tours to James Bond Island are combined with a visit to other popular islands and usually include a stop for a seafood lunch at the charming Koh Panyee, a nearby Muslim fishing village on stilts. Even though tour companies usually hand out plastic bags to protect your camera, it really is best to bring along a snap-shut waterproof camera bag. In addition, canoe around Hong Island, explore the Ice Cream and Diamond Caves, and wander around Naka Noi Island. You’ll see the best these islands have to offer with the help of a guide.
FANTASEA
This is the island’s biggest show, with trapeze artists, a cast of hundreds, performing elephants and other animals and an exotic storyline that blends tradition with fantasy. But the extravaganza doesn’t stop there as FantaSea also hosts one of the biggest buffets in Asia all set in a theme park that offers carnival-like games, lots of shopping opportunities, a Palace of the Elephants, a Similan Adventure Centre and several other food outlets. It’s spectacular, it’s extravagant, it’s impressive and great entertainment value for all, certainly if you’re travelling with children. Open: 5pm-11:30pm every day except Thursday. Show starts at 8:30pm. www.phuket-fantasea.com
OTHER SHOWS
There are several elaborate stage shows to choose from in Phuket, starting with Siam Niramit Phuket—similar to the show of the same name in Bangkok—which takes viewers on a colourful journey through Thailand’s history and culture, and features over 100 actors, 500+ costumes, and even a few elephants. For something more over-the-top, the Phuket Simon Cabaret is an extravagant ladyboy venue that combines music, comedy, and a lot of tight-fitting gowns. There are three performances daily, at 6pm, 7:30pm, and 9pm, Tickets are B1,000 each. www.phuket-simoncabaret.com 40 | DECEMBER 2018
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phuket - see & do | TRAVEL
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TRAVEL | phuket - see & do
SCUBA DIVING
Although there are many places to scuba dive around Thailand, the waters in and around Phuket are home to some of the world’s top diving destinations. The island is ringed by a number of established dive sites, including several small islands to the south and east: Koh Hae, Koh Raya (Noi and Yai), Koh Yao (Noi and Yai), Hin Daeng, and Hin Muang (also known as ‘Shark Point’ as it is a habitat for harmless leopard sharks). Excursions further afield—to Phang Nga Bay islands to the east, and to the world-famous Surin and Similan Islands to the northwest—are also, for the most part, operated from Phuket. Of the dozens and dozens of dive companies operating out of Phuket, many also provide liveaboard trips to islands in the Mergui Archipelago off the southern coast of Myanmar. www.scubadiving-phuket.com www.sunrise-divers.com
ELEPHANT PARKS
There are three main elephant parks in Phuket, but Phuket Elephant Sanctuary is the pioneer of ethical elephant tourism here, and they go to great lengths to create as natural and peaceful an environment as possible for their jumbo residents. While you can watch and walk with these majestic creatures, interaction beyond that is kept to a strict minimum. There are informative morning and afternoon tours available, and you can volunteer at the sanctuary for up to six days. By contrast, at the Elephant Jungle Sanctuary guests can touch, feed, and photograph the elephants, as well as give them a mud bath and then a rinse in the river. Somewhere in the ethical middle is The Elephant Retirement Park, which allows physical interaction with the elephants, including giving them a mud bath and a wash. www.phuketelephantsanctuary.org
PHANG NGA BAY
The geographic region known as Phang Nga Bay lies between Phuket and southern Thailand’s mainland. Also known as Ao Phang Nga National Park, it’s characterised by limestone cliffs and karst rock formations that jut out of the water, as well as mangrove forests and small islands. A lot of cut-rate tours take wide-eyed visitors to Khao Phing Kan, which is more popularly known as Koh Tapu or “James Bond Island”, known for its stunning caves and lagoons, is much more interesting and organised kayak tours—like the ones offered by Simba Sea Trips—deliver a much more rewarding and enjoyable Phang Nga visitor experience. www.simbaseatrips.com/tours/phang-nga-bay 42 | DECEMBER 2018
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ADVENTURE EXCURSIONS
In contrast with rampant development along coastal areas of the island, Phuket’s interior still offers many hectares of land devoted to the cultivation of rice, rubber, cashew, cacao, pineapple, and coconut, as well as Phuket’s last bit of island rainforest. The Khao Phra Thaew Royal Wildlife & Forest Reserve covers a mountain range towards the northern end of the island and protects a vast area of evergreen monsoon forest. Jungle hikes to Ton Sai and Bang Pae waterfalls are a popular activity in the reserve, and for just B2,000 per person, Paddle Phuket offers a six-hour jungle trek to these idyllic falls. The company, which specialises in stand-up paddleboard (SUP) excursions, also offers a host of other fascinating water-based island adventures as well. www.paddlephuket.com
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MINING MUSEUM
Mining for tin, which began in the 18th century and drew to a close in the 1960s, is how the first fortunes were made in Phuket. If you want to “dig deeper” into the history of the island’s tin trade, the Phuket Mining Museum, which opened in August 2009, is the place to go. Located in Kathu, on the road between Loch Palm Golf Club and British International School—it’s an interesting diversion and features elaborate displays ranging from scale models of tin mines, to a recreated scene in an opium den. Looking at these very realistic, and often life-sized dioramas, makes one aware of many of the hardships the local citizenry once endured. Open: Monday to Saturday, 8am-4pm. For info call: 088 766 0962 www.phuket.com/attractions/kathu-mining-museum
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TRAVEL | phuket - see & do
Karon Viewpoint
You are unlikely going to be alone here because the stop is popular with some of the bus tours of Phuket, but Karon Viewpoint is popular for a reason. From above, you will be able to see the three beaches north of the viewpoint. Couples go there to sit on the benches and observe the view. It’s a nice stopover if you are driving past and it gives you a bit of perspective on the island. After all, Phuket gets its name from the Malay word for hill (bukit) so there are a few places where you can enjoy the view from above. Explorers looking for convenience should hire a private (English-speaking) driver so that you can explore Phuket at your own pace. www.phuket.com/attractions/kata-viewpoint
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Blue Elephant Phuket
There are hundreds of places to learn how to cook Thai food and perhaps even your hotel offers cookery classes, but for a true and authentic experience, the famous Blue Elephant Cooking School is a must. This is one of the best known restaurants in Phuket, set within an historic Sino-Portuguese style mansion in Old Phuket Town, and a real institution that specialises in Royal Thai cuisine. The chef is famous and the restaurant serves fabulous food in the beautiful settings of an old mansion house. Everything is great here: the food, the teacher, the setting, if you ever wanted to learn to make some of the easier Thai dishes back home, there is no better cooking class than this one. www.blueelephant.com
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phuket - interview | TRAVEL
FOODIE PHUKET
We hear from the F&B people of Phuket on what makes food on Thailand’s largest island so unique and how the launch of the Michelin Guide Phuket last month will, if at all, change the culinary landscpe.
Alessandro Frau
Executive Chef and Owner, Acqua Restaurant I define our food concept as the evolution of “Italian cuisine. We follow the evolution of cooking techniques, the evolution of farmers/ingredients, the evolution of presentational tools. Inspiration comes from all around but mostly from my memories and the food culture and traditions of Italy. These elements are present when I create a new dish, so you’ll find some traditional Italian dishes and other more sophisticated creations to please all level of food knowledge. For my menu, I import almost 90 per cent of my ingredients as we like to have the same tastes and textures as in Italy. I still love to explore the Phuket markets though and sometimes bangkok101.com
I’ll find an interesting ingredient that comes close to my memories of home. Sardines, for example, are amazing. I use them in a dish called “Sardines Like the Sardines Festival in Italy”. Michelin coming to Phuket is excellent. It will automatically raise the level of the restaurant’s standards. Tourism has always been significant on the island, but I think the Guide will see a different kind of tourist arrive, more culinary-leaning, more sophisticated maybe? I’m sure Phuket will benefit from the Guide, and it will raise the reputation of the island. Perhaps it will help to attract new chefs and restaurants, increasing the quality and the selection of dining on the island.
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TRAVEL | phuket - interview
Nasuda ‘Orn’ Kuenram Owner of Mee Sapam Phuket
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It’s the mixed identity. Phuket comprises of diverse cultures that influence the way we eat, leading to new creations such as in Baba cuisine (from Chinese offspring born and raised in local families), Muslim cuisine, ThaiChinese cuisine, Malawian cuisine, etc. Phuket cuisine is also an integral part of traditional ceremonies, festivals, and beliefs. It is automatically embedded in Phuketians’ lives. Some households have secret family recipes passed down from generation to generation. Another factor is the outstanding natural resources that bring charm and uniqueness to our dishes. In the information age, it is inevitable for food businesses to be labelled by criticisms, stars, reviews, rankings, etc. I think Michelin will have a positive impact on restaurants as being recognised by a universally renowned institution can attract Thai and international gourmands to the hub. This will highlight Thailand’s food culture and stimulate the tourism industry in Phuket, not only for the awarded restaurants but also the rest, which will have a chance to establish new and returning customers. Kitchen staff, on the other hand, will need to keep up consistent cooking or practice and improve to understand and meet the standards, as well as to be more widely acknowledged. 46 | DECEMBER 2018
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Napapat ‘Prang’ Chessadawan Owner of One Chun
Phuket’s gastronomy differs due to the deeply “rooted Chinese influence in Thai culture, across food and architecture. In terms of cooking style, for example, Moo Hong (pork belly stew) requires the use of spices, but still with a milder flavour profile compared to most local dishes. Regional favourites include the likes of Koong Siab (shrimp skewers grilled and smoked on coconut spathe), Koong Sod (raw shrimp), Shone (vegetable often eaten with Nam Prik or chili paste), Pak Miang (vegetable often sautéed with egg, garlic, and Koong Siab) that are used to make menus like Nam Prik Koong Siab (chili paste), Nam Prik Koong Sod (chili paste), Kang Som Sai Shone (spicy and savoury orange soup with shrimp and Shone) and Bai Miang sautéed with egg and Koong Siab. Launching the Michelin Guide will give colour to the local food businesses. It might help promote our signature cuisines as Phuket has a lot to offer. Each restaurant has its own version and cooking method of each dish. For instance, Moo Hong from one place tastes differently from another due to the techniques and execution, depending on customers’ preferences. Some old eateries may already have regulars, but they will have a chance to gain new visitors every year too.
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phuket - interview | TRAVEL
Tammasak ‘Noi’ Choothong
Kanya ‘Noi’ Parama
Owner and Executive Chef of Suay Restaurant
General Manager of The Vegan Table
Phuket cuisine is unique with multicultural heritage from the past, known as Peranakan style. Typical southern dishes are extremely spicy in most parts of the region. This factor concerns the island’s inherited wisdom that creates many specialties. Since the Hokkian Chinese fed the majority of the population with loads of international settlers, the spiciness was levelled down over time with sweetness to create an umami flavour. Another advantage is the seafood that can be easily found here. Phuket is not only abundant with beautiful sceneries, but also fresh seafood with supplies arriving daily.
Local Phuket cuisine has a unique quality as it consists of many years of history. Since Phuket has welcomed international traders for hundreds of years, these movements brought with them plenty of cultural traits and many who migrated here brought their culinary heritage with them, passing it down through the generations. Hokkian Chinese has been a major population of the island for a long time, and plays a huge part in Phuket cuisine. Many local dishes have Chinese influences combined with flavourful Thai southern dishes. The variety of local food is plentiful, allowing visitors to explore the culinary scene and learn more about the island. I recommend visiting authentic local restaurants as this presents a good opportunity to learn about the island’s varied history.
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Launching the Michelin Guide in Phuket is wonderful. With internationally well-respected foodies visiting, it will benefit the island greatly. This will bring a new wave of travellers, who can try authentic local dishes and learn more about the culture. This is exciting for people in the restaurant industry as there had been a long quiet rainy season. Restaurants will be more alert and ready for improvement, to raise their quality to another level. This too will benefit visitors as they explore and experience Phuket. As a fine dining chef, I know that Michelin Guide’s readers have a keen eye for high standards and they expect quality. bangkok101.com
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As for the Michelin Guide launching in Phuket, I think it’s great news. Phuket has a lot of great restaurants with loads to offer foodies and travellers. It is a chance for these hidden gems and small cafes to be discovered and exposed to the world. I also see this as a significant moment for the food and beverage industry, to acknowledge this new wave of change and interest that will hopefully spark more growth and interest, helping Phuket for the future.
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TRAVEL | phuket - interview
48 | DECEMBER 2018
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Chef Jim Ophorst An interview with the Chef de Cuisine of Phuket’s only Michelin-starred restaurant, PRU.
M
ontara Hospitality’s Farm-To-Table Restaurant, PRU at Trisara Phuket, was awarded one Michelin star last month at the Michelin Guide Thailand Star Revelation 2019 Gala Awards. In achieving this honour, PRU becomes the first and the only restaurant in Phuket to receive the prestigious accolade. The restaurant’s critically acclaimed Chef de Cuisine, Jim Ophorst, is touted in the guide as an “inspiring voice of change” for elevating the farm-to-table movement in Thailand. Still, only 29 years old, Chef Jim who is originally from the Netherlands, has built a reputation for his imaginative cooking style and innovative techniques. In 2016, Chef Jim joined Montara’s Trisara where his raw talent and conviction inspired the conception of PRU. He is a two-time semifinalist for S. Pellegrino’s annual Young Chefs Award in 2016 and 2017. PRU’s culinary concept “Plant, Raise, Understand” stems from Chef Jim and his team’s close relationship with local suppliers and farmers as well as the opportunities to forage and discover new ingredients from the restaurant’s farm “Pru Jampa”. The farm neighbours beautiful lakes whose banks are home to various local plants, herbs, organic vegetable gardens, free-range chickens and ducks. “I’m excited to discover new ingredients all the time because it pushes my creative boundaries,” said Chef Jim. “My ultimate goal is to create a 100% locally sourced menu. To cook something great, you need great products from great farmers. Great farmers are from strong communities. So, at PRU, we don’t want to be just a kitchen. We want to strengthen the local farming community. This will yield better ingredients for better dishes at PRU. In the end, it is all about the happiness in every angle—from the farmers to the restaurant team, to the guests at our tables,” added Chef Jim. Located at the ultra-luxe Trisara resort, PRU is now officially part of the exclusive collective of dining establishments that can refer to themselves as Michelin-starred. For Montara Hospitality, the recognition signals greater aspirations for growth within in the culinary scene. “The Michelin Star Award for PRU puts Phuket on the foodies’ world map and establishes Montara as a leader of innovative culinary destinations,” said Quentin Fougeroux, Montara’s Group Director of Food and Beverage. www.prurestaurant.com
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SALA Resorts and Spas
Moon Pool SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort
SALA Hospitality Group currently operates in Thailand’s most sought-after destinations and is exploring new and upcoming regions. They are a homegrown Thai hospitality company that owns and operates seven luxurious and intimate properties under two brands: SALA Resorts and Spas and sala boutique. All SALA Resorts and Spas are located on the sandy shores of the idyllic Thai islands of Phuket and Koh Samui and feature glorious beaches, luxurious pool villas and suites, rejuvenating spas, romantic beachfront bars, and an array of dining options. SALA Resorts and Spas offer experiences that are both personal and private, ensuring that there’s something for everyone. The company’s first resort, SALA Samui Choengmon Beach Resort, opened in 2004 and features a total of 69 luxurious villas and suites, 53 of which have private pools. Tours can be arranged that cater to all guests’ needs from
Oceanfront Balcony Pool Suite SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort
snorkelling and diving to mountain biking, shopping and dining; and supplying guests with a variety of sea, city, mountain, and jungle activities. In line with SALA Resorts and Spas’ “personal and private” philosophy, a similarly high percentage of private pool villas can be found at SALA Phuket Resort and Spa, which opened in 2007. Here, 63 out of a total 79 villas and suites feature their own private pools, and include all of the vital functional elements of SALA Samui, with warm, on-hand service to ensure comfort and convenience. The resort’s ‘Sino-Portuguese’ design, with its own uniqueness, reflects the culture of Phuket, offering the same facilities at SALA Samui Choengmon. The SALA Restaurant offers fresh seafood and international dishes, plus traditional Thai favourites. Guests can also enjoy their meals indoor or outdoor, by the poolside terrace or on the romantic rooftop. Or why not relax at the beach bar with a cocktail
SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort
Oceanfront Garden Pool Suite SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort
2 Bedroom Presidential Pool Villa Suite SALA Samui Choengmon Beach Resort
SALA Pool Villa SALA Samui Choengmon Beach Resort
SALA Phuket Restaurant SALA Phuket Resort and Spa
SALA Pool Villa SALA Phuket Resort and Spa
in-hand? All restaurant and bar items are available via the in-villa dining service. For a unique and special experience, get pampered at the award-winning SALA SPA with indoor treatment rooms and beachfront massage stations. Guests can also make use of steam rooms and a state-of-the-art gym. The group’s newest property, SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort opened its first phase, the Oceanfront Wing, in January 2018. The design of this unique beach resort is inspired by the moon. Located on the gorgeous powder-soft beach frontage, the first phase features 52 stylish pool villas and pool suites, all with private swimming pools. The Tent beachfront restaurant and bar offers fresh seafood, Thai and western dishes right on the beach. Guests can also relax right on the beach while sipping refreshing beverages from the beach bar. The second phase of the resort, the Garden Wing, will be open in April 2019 with 82 more rooms and villas, restaurant, pool bar, garden swimming pool, gym, spa, and kid’s club.
SALA Spa SALA Phuket Resort and Spa
SALA Samui Choengmon Beach Resort 10/9 Moo 5, Baan Plai Laem, Bophut Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Thailand T +66 77 245 888 E info@salachoengmon.com www.salachoengmon.com SALA Phuket Resort and Spa 333 Moo 3, Mai Khao Beach Phuket, 83110 Thailand T +66 76 338 888 E reservations@salaphuket.com www.salahospitality.com/phuket SALA Samui Chaweng Beach Resort 99/10 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Thailand T +66 77 905 888 E reservation@salachaweng.com www.salachaweng.com www.facebook.com/salahospitalitygroup www.instagram.com/salahospitality www.twitter.com/salahospitality
TRAVEL | phuket - interview
The Cake Angel of Phuket With his experience in kitchens around the world, pastry chef and pâtisserie Peter Webber now owns and operates Les Diables in Phuket. In conversation with Zazi Ruengchinda
Can you tell us about the TV show you were involved in? The television show was when I was living in Dubai and was a local Emirates production. It was a show about how to make desserts and cakes. I never got to see the released show as I had already left for The Oriental Bangkok when it was aired. During Queen Elizabeth’s official state visit to Thailand, what kind of cakes did you make for her? For the Queen’s visit we did a lot of catering for the palace and different events around Bangkok and the British Embassy. For the state dinner the dessert was a very simple plated apple crumble served with caramel sauce and vanilla bean ice cream. There is a very funny story with this, as with all of the excitement we lost the hot trolley the desserts were being stored on. The main kitchen had thought it was used for the main course and finished with, so they had loaded it into the catering trucks by mistake. That was a nervous 15 minutes for everyone, but all was okay in the end. What are your best-selling cakes and desserts? At Les Diables, our bestselling cake is our signature chocolate truffle cake, which consists of a moist chocolate sponge with pure chocolate couverture mousse. It melts in the mouth. Can you sum up what your style of desserts are in three words? Classic, delicious… fattening! www.lesdiablesphuket.com 52 | DECEM BER 2018
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Laad Yai ART MARKET
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few years ago Phuket’s City Council announced a massive renovation to preserve the island’s iconic sites and invited local and international graffiti artists to add bright, fun, colourful artworks, making the Old Town even more vibrant and Instagram friendly. The famous Laad Yai Art Market also opened, welcoming art and craft lovers and offering a great place for people to shop, finding everything from local foods to locals arts. You’ll also discover cool flea markets selling nicnacs and antiques. Once you enter the market on Thalang Road, you’ll find a stage with live performances where artists perform Bossanova tunes and well-known love songs to serenade the evening crowd. Every week the shows rotates, with many performances presented by local schools and music students. Some days the market gets pretty crowded, and if you’re tired of walking, then the cafés along the road offer local snacks like savoury or sweet pancakes to pair with delicious Thai milk tea. Location: Thalang Rd., Phuket Town | Open: Sunday 4pm-9pm
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TRAVEL | phuket - spas
FIVE-SPA Treatment Unwind in one of Phuket’s many spa resorts and choose from a menu of wide-ranging treatments, all offering complete luxury and boasting some of the most skilled masseuses in all of Thailand.
AYURAH SPA & WELLNESS CENTRE
Experience as many treatments as you wish for 120 minutes, at B4,500++ per person. The five packages include well-being massage therapy with chakra massage, foot reflexology, and sense massage; beauty elegance with express manicure, pedicure, and facial treatment; body sentimentality with Himalayan salt glow, Phlai body polish, aloe nourishment, and dead sea treatment; hydrotherapy bath with detox, recharge, release, and remember session; and Thai healing treatment with Thai massage, herbal compress, and natural facial treatment. Tel: 076 580 333 www.aleenta.com/phuket/spa/ayurah-spa-wellnesscentre-phuket
DIAMOND CLIFF RESORT & SPA
The Stay & Refresh package takes 35% off for you with free spa treatment for two persons. The rates start from B3,870++/night. The best available rates offer daily buffet breakfast, foot massage, aromatherapy oil massage and sauna-steam, spa discount, welcome drink, in-room Wi-Fi Internet access, and one kilogram of fresh tropical fruits of your choice from our hotel’s fruit shop (1 time/stay). The package is applicable for a minimum of four-night stay and the rate is subjected to 7% government tax and 10% service charge. Tel: 076 380 050 | www.diamondcliff.com/spa
MANGOSTEEN WELLNESS ESCAPES
The Mangosteen Ayurveda & Wellness Resort presents four new Wellness Escapes, each with different objectives and inclusions, all developed and supervised by our in-house Ayurveda Doctor. A unique combination of meals and drinks, spa treatments, Yoga and Meditation sessions allow you to achieve your targets in a very relaxing, luxury environment. Let the spa team help you 54 | DECEMBER 2018
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to choose the best options from 500-minute spa buffet at B10,000++, balancing massage with a variety of hand techniques with aromatherapy oil at B888++, holistic massage therapy at B2,500++, to three-day detox at B15,500++ and B11,000++ for monsoon price. Tel: 076 289 399 www.facebook.com/mangosteenphuket
OASIS SPA
Located by a serene lagoon in the tropical paradise of Phuket is a secret sanctuary devoted to your relaxation, tranquility and rejuvenation of body and spirit. It boasts a full menu of treatments and therapies and many of the individual treatment villas include private outdoor showers that overlook the tranquil waters. Free round trip transportation is available in Bangtao, Surin and Laguna area. Receive up to B2,000 discount when booking your 2-hour massage session online. This offer is on condition that are subject to the availability at each location and may change without prior notice. Offer valid until 31 December 2018. Tel: 076 337 777 www.oasisspa.net/destination/phuket
BANYAN TREE SPA
An adult-only boutique resort in Phuket inclusive of unlimited in villa massage, which encourages guests to embrace the five senses—sight, sound, touch, taste and smell. Infused with spa elements, healthy cuisine, award-winning spa, and wellness activities, you will embark on a journey of rejuvenation and wellness with experience to soothe your senses at our Phuket luxury resort. Indulge in unlimited spa treatments and rest your thoughts in an immense floating bedroom conceptwrapped in floor-to-ceiling glass windows. Complete with private steam room and an outdoor sunken bath to help you rejuvenate your body. Measuring 550 square metres, each 12 Spa Pool is the contemporary tribute to traditional Thai architecture and dÊcor. Discover complete rejuvenation with the many spa packages available. Tel: 076 733 400 Ext. 6950 www.banyantreespa.com/banyan-tree-spasanctuary-phuket
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Silavadee
is an exclusive paradise on one of the most famous islands
phuket - see & do | TRAVEL
KING’S CUP REGATTA Photo by Guy Nowell
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stablished in 1987, and today considered by many to be Asia’s biggest and most popular sailboat competition, the annual King’s Cup Regatta in Phuket attracts international yachtsmen from all over the globe. In the water off Kata Beach, competitive sailors will race in dinghies, keelboats, and multi-hull vessels. For over 30 years this acclaimed sporting event has been a major island attraction, and those making the trip this year will once again see world-class race teams competing and then celebrating in style at various parties around the island.
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December 1-8, 2018 www.kingscup.com
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TRAVEL | phuket old town
Phra Phitak Chinpracha Mansion
58 | DECEMBER 2018
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phuket old town | TRAVEL
OLD TOWN Culture and cuisine come alive during a stroll through historic Phuket Town.
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lthough it can’t lure tourists with white sand beaches, loads of culturally curious travellers have been drawn to the well-preserved historic district of Phuket Town, making it a significant tourist attraction in its own right. Thankfully, the preservation and restoration projects launched in the mid2000s have kept many of the century-old tiam choo (Hokkien for “shop house”) intact. And as this historic neighbourhood continues to grow in popularity, an array of art galleries, cafés, guesthouses, and restaurants are flourishing in the wake of the town’s unavoidable gentrification. Thalang Road is the highly colourful, main historical artery of the Old Town, with lots of colourful shophouses—designed in the typical Sino-Portuguese architectural style also seen in Penang, Melaka, and Singapore—many of which have been restored in recent years. After shopping, take a well-deserved coffee break on Thalang Road at Coffs & Burgh, Kopitiam or Old Phuket Coffee, or rest and read at Bohemian, a bookshop-gallery-café that attracts the city’s hip clientele. Finally, be sure to sample some unique Asian-Western fusion dishes and desserts in the beautiful ambience of Eleven Two & Co, a hip café that doubles as a souvenir shop. Soi Romanee and Dibuk Road are also home to some of the city’s most significant Sino-Portuguese style edifices, including a grand building now occupied by the Chartered Bank. Meanwhile, the Thai Hua Museum, built in 1911, is a great place to learn about Phuket’s history and the Phuket-China connection (admission is B200). Visitors can also discover links to the past at historic sites such as Raya House, a colonial-era mansion that has been preserved as authentically as possible—it’s also home to the Raya Restaurant— and the Phra Phitak Chinpracha Mansion, built in 1903, which reopened a few years ago as the Blue Elephant cooking school and restaurant. And speaking of art, Phang Nga Road has several galleries and artists’ workshops, including The Wua Art Gallery, and the Mon Art Gallery. Also of note are the many intriguing temples in town, including the Shrine of the Serene Light, a beautiful old Chinese Taoist shrine, founded in 1891 by Hokkien Chinese. Or, for a touch of modern history, book a room at the newly refurbished On On Hotel (19 Phang Nga Road). Open since 1927, this longtime bare-bones, dingy backpacker dive was prominently featured in the film, The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, but a revamp in 2012 transformed it into a classy, contemporary midrange guesthouse.
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A PINCH OF EXCELLENCE Served by more than 750 top-rated chefs. Discover Nespresso Professional Solutions on nespresso.com or call 1800-019090
ESENZI Esenzi is a globally-influenced, Michelin Plated seafood restaurant delivering an immersive, elite dining experience located on the road to Phuket, in Phang-Nga. The aim is to bring every element of the ocean directly to the table through an interactive atmosphere. Ingreidients are varied, mostly ocean-based with some carnivorous leanings, all rooted in freshness. The kitchen is led by Tim Butler (Co-Owner & Executive Chef) & John Becker (Chef Du Cuisine). Photography by Atom Ongwat
Mai House Patong Hill sits high on a lush tropical hillside overlooking Patong Beach and the sparkling Andaman Sea below. The exotic 79room resort stands out as an oasis of modern Thai culture and charm, providing each guest the ultimate in relaxation. Set amongst natural and lush surroundings, the resort offers stunning views and some of the island’s best sunsets. The unique architecture combines the local and historical character of Phuket Island with contemporary 5-star facilities, showcasing a warm, minimalist Sino-Portuguese design. Capturing the clean lines of modernity
and elegance, the beautifully appointed 79 guestrooms range from Deluxe (28 sqm) to Grand Deluxe (35sqm) to Grand Jacuzzi (50 sqm) and MAI Suite Pool Access (42 sqm). Designed to cater to every guest’s needs, each guestroom includes sublimely comfortable beds with crisp and smooth linens, fluffy towels, sexy bathtubs and other thoughtful, pampering touches. Three exquisite restaurants are set within Mai House Patong Hill, each catering to your craving with plenty of food and drink selections —Kathu Mining Co., on the 2nd floor with sea views was inspired by the early tin mining era that made
Phuket great. Serving hearty grilled seafood and meat platters alongside fresh produce –made for sharing with loved ones. Breakfast from 6.30am10.30am and Dinner from 6pm-11pm. Opium Den is the heart of Mai House. Inspired by the opium dreams of Hokkien pioneers of Phuket, this open-air sanctuary of relaxation and refreshment is where you can enjoy a cool drink on a sunny afternoon or enjoy a delicious meal of Thai or international favourites. Open daily 8am2am. Mai Sky—the open air rooftop offers the best place to catch stunning sunsets or star gaze at the
twinkling night sky above. Arrive early for Happy Hour and grab a good seat to witness the special moment as the warm Phuket sun lazily dips into the distant horizon. Cool cocktails and bar snacks, anytime day or night. Open daily 2pm-12am and Happy Hour from 5pm-7pm. Mai House Patong Hill brings to life the exotic charm of Thai culture and hospitality through architecture, food and legendary service. It is the first resort location in Thailand under the new Mai House brand from regional hotel management experts InVision Hospitality.
5/5 Phrabarami Rd., Patong, Kathu, Phuket 83150, Thailand | Tel +66 76 637 770 | Fax +66 76 637 880
www.maihouse.com/patonghill
TRAVEL | over the border
Kitchens of SINGAPORE
From the cheap and cheerful to grand temples of fine dining, Singapore’s rich cultural heritage has produced some of the most exciting food anywhere. Words by David J. Constable
68 | DECEMBER 2018
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over the border | TRAVEL
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m always happy to be in Singapore. It’s one of the great, great eating cities, and nobody says it enough. It has a fantastic natural cuisine but also this exciting mixture of Indian, Malay, English and Arab. Unlike other major Southeast Asian city’s, say Bangkok, Jakarta, and Phnom Penh, Singapore is clean, neat, tidy, safe and efficient. My goodness, it’s efficient: restaurant bookings, taxis, public transport, a coffee order; and people smile here. I spent a long time in Singapore, assigning myself to personal culinary missions, and noticed almost immediately how the city is a homogenous, integrated, international place of choice rather than birth. Not without grit and friction, but amazingly polyglot and variegated. I travel a lot, and this must be the most successful mongrel casserole anywhere. Every national that comes to compete in banking, food or tourism, will find a welcoming committee and a population ready to eat. It’s this microcosm of deep multicultural heritage that has resulted in some of the best hawker centres anywhere. Many meals were consumed in hawkers, hopping between vendors; quick, cheap, on-the-move mouthfuls. Other times I’d just wander along the stalls, gawping at the endless variety of noodles, satays, dumplings, chicken rice and cultural mélange. The centrally located Chinatown Complex is one of the largest hawker centres and was close to where I was staying. It is also home to Hawker Chan Soya Sauce Chicken Rice and Noodle, the world’s socalled “cheapest Michelin meal in the world” at 2 Singapore dollars. The vendor gained global fame when it was awarded a star in 2016 in Singapore’s first Michelin guide; success which inevitably led to Chef Chan going into partnership and opening a restaurant. Some devotees line up for more than an hour; a tableau of diners and avaricious tourists loyally waiting for their favourite dirt-cheap food, a scene replicated in hawkers across the island.
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“The food in Singapore is one of the best melds, not just a melting pot of world flavours,” said K.F. Seetoh, Singapore’s de-facto food ambassador and creator of the World Street Food Congress. “It is beyond rich migrant-food culture.” Seetoh sees hawkers as the most important aspect of Singapore’s national identity, commenting that it was invented by a migrant generation who created it in order to survive. “Ingenuity made this food culture ours,” he believes. Opposite Chinatown Complex, I had breakfast one morning with Chef Han Li Guang of Labyrinth restaurant, slurping bowls of bak kut teh, falling instantly in love with the peppery-pork-rib broth, washing it all down with mug-falls of Chinese tea. I decided then that I would undertake my own bak kut teh research, bouncing around various outlets, sampling and rating bone broth soups. To stay within the word limit, let me just say that Singapore’s vast caboodle of outstanding bak kut teh and laksa options are unrivalled. Rong Hua Bak Kut Teh (above One-North MRT), Song Fa Bak Kut Teh (Chinatown Point, New Bridge Rd), Heng Heng Bak Kut Teh (Owen Rd) and Joo Siah Bak Kut Teh (Jurong East Ave) all rate highly. For laksa, visit Alexandra Village Claypot Laksa (Bukitmerah Lane) and venture out to Katong, to 328 Katong Laksa (East Coast Rd), where in 2013 Gordon Ramsey was beaten in the Singtel Hawker Heroes challenge, losing to owner Lucy Koh and her son, Ryan. In previous challenges, Ramsey had beaten the competition with his chilli crab, but failed to serve up a crowd-pleasing laksa. On losing, the notoriously foul-mouthed chef said, “What I’m taking home is a confirmation of how good hawker food is. I won three Michelin stars and they still kick my a**.” I turned to such economical hawker options often, wandering among the stalls studying the endless dishes, trying anything I could—fish-head curry, orh lua (oyster omelette), mee siam (Siamese DECEMBER 2018 | 69
TRAVEL | over the border
noodle), yong tau (tofu with ground meat)—all of the lip-smacking, addictively salty, spicy, silky morsels available, all originating from different parts of the continent, yet considered wholly Singaporean. Likewise, the sloshy amphibian smoosh that is frog porridge. This hot pot of lumpy porridge—like congee—and marinated frog flesh is a popular supper or late-night meal. At Eminent Frog Porridge—yes, that is the restaurant’s actual name—in Geglang, they serve lashings of the stuff with sweet kung pao sauce and sides of spring onion and chilli. I moved to the new InterContinental Robertson Quay, located in the River Valley on the banks of the 70 | DECEMBER 2018
river. Here I experienced another part of the city, away from the malls and tourist cluster. The hotel opened last year, offering a very different experience and design aesthetic to The InterContinental Bugis across town. Rooms are slick and contemporary, fitted with all mod-cons. My Club Riverview Studio King Room was a moderately sized space with the most comfortable bed this side of the Yangtze River. Next door, the hotel’s Publico restaurant and deli bring a slice of Italy crossed with Tunisia to Singapore, offering all-day breakfast—Truffled Eggs Benedict, Egg Shakshuka, Italian pastries—and excellent coffee by Liberty, roasted in Singapore. At night, the space bangkok101.com
over the border | TRAVEL
becomes Marcello, Singapore’s first modern Italian cocktail bar. Exploring the River Valley further, I visited two of the city’s most anticipated restaurant openings, handily located next door to one another on Mohamed Sultan Rd: The English House by Marco Pierre White and Hashida Sushi. White’s restaurant is engulfed in tropical foliage, a former shophouse injected with new life. Upon entering, two Indian doorman—brothers, Sarjit and Swaran Singh—greet diners. Food is best described as British comfort food, nothing hoity-toity; it’s quality pub grub: a gravy-soaked Shepherd’s Pie and a Fried Fillet of English Turbot with Chips—that’s fish & chips to you and me. Meanwhile, next door, Kenjiro ‘Hatch’ Hashida— the son of Master Sushi Chef, Tokio Hashida—has opened Hashida Sushi, a classic omakase concept serving counter dining with menus ranging from 80 Singapore dollars to 300-500 for the Chef’s Menu, featuring premium grade sushi and sashimi such as ootoro. Venturing deeper into the island, I arrange tours of Gardens by the Bay and the Botanical Gardens.
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Built on reclaimed land in 2012, Gardens by the Bay is a marvel of engineering and sustainable design— one of the island’s most photographed attractions. I like how its climate-controlled greenhouse domes, artificial superstructure trees and green expanses contrast with the nearby central business district towers. Better still, the free outdoor gardens remain open until 2am. Over in the sticky-tropical-entrapment of the Botanical Gardens, I visited Corner House Restaurant (Cluny Rd) for dinner. Set within the former house of British botanist Eldred John Henry Corner, the restaurant applies an in-depth understanding of how best to use herbs and plants in the cooking process with Chef Jason Chan describing his menu as ‘gastrobotanica’. The standout course is an intricate study of the humble onion, manipulated and presented as a trio: “Baked Onion Cup” sees a whole onion baked and hollowed, filled with onion purée and confit, a 62°C sous-vide egg, sea salt, chives and black truffles. Then, an “Onion Tart” made from crispy filo pastry, topped with parmesan cheese; followed by “Onion Tea” and an emulsion of onion confit and cream; Earl Grey-infused onion tea is then poured over.
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TRAVEL | over the border
Back in the city, I moved to The InterContinental Bugis, a more historical offering than the contemporary Robertson Quay, and a building rooted in the arts and cultural districts of Bugis and Bras Basah. This district is home to several museums and places of worship, reflecting Singapore’s rich, multi-faceted cultural identity. The hotel is also within striking distance of the colonial-style Raffles Hotel, which, along with The InterContinental Bugis, remains one of Singapore’s most loved heritage properties. Raffles, however, was closed for refurbishment during my visit, but by the time you read this, should once again be open to the world. To pay homage to its refined culinary roots—it was the first hotel in Singapore to hire a French chef when its restaurant opened in 1899—the renovated hotel will house a new lineup of dining venues helmed by celebrity chefs—including Alain Ducasse, Anne-Sophie Pic and Jereme Leung. Considering that Singapore lost its only Michelin three-star restaurant when the recently deceased chef Joël Robuchon closed his eponymous French restaurant, this is certainly good news for visiting gourmands.
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Now set within the Bugis district, I’m able to discover more on foot and take to the streets, discovering speciality coffee at Mellower Coffee and their “Sweet Little Rain” innovation, in which a ball of cotton candy is suspended over a steaming Americano, so that the upwards steam begins to melt away the candy, which drips into the coffee, simulating raindrops as it sweetens the brew. Discovering Amoy Street changed everything. This vibrant stretch of road is particularly encouraging for the time-poor and hungry traveller. The long, narrow street of candy-coloured shophouses is lined with everything from barbershops to bars to galleries, offices and Korean barbecue joints, easily one of the most exciting and progressive strips in Singapore. Dinner at Nouri—a pop-up event and collaboration between Chef/Owner Ivan Brehm (one-time head of The Fat Duck test kitchen) and Chef Arnie Marcella of Bunker in Bangkok—is a masterful meal of intersecting cultures and unique flavour identity. Across the road, Native—still on Amoy Street— dazzles with cocktails made from local ingredients
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over the border | TRAVEL
that range from banana stalks and dried lotus leaves to salt-baked tapioca and jasmine blossoms. Speaking of bars, I experienced some of the most brilliant cocktails and bearded-hipster-efficientfriendly service I have anywhere in the world. Also located on Amoy Street is Employees Only, a high-energy cocktail bar accessible via a secret entrance behind a neon sign advertising p s y c h i c readings. Other standout bars—many of which feature in The World’s 50 Best Bars list—include: Manhattan, Atlas, Operation Dagger and 28 Hongkong Street. The following day I return to Amoy Street hoping to uncover more in daylight. Back within the argy-bargybustle of the Food Centre for breakfast, I joined the off-duty taxi drivers and office workers for curry puffs and a Singaporean-style ramen from A Noodle Story, a vendor owned and operated by chefs Gwern Khoo and Ben Tham—formerly of Tetsuya Wakuda’s casino finebangkok101.com
diner Waku Ghin. A few coffees and beers in nearby joints and by lunchtime I’m ready to return, this time going full-on hawker berserk with bowl-upon-bowl of braised duck noodles, roti served with a fiery curry sauce, the gelatinous and squishy chwee kueh (preserved radish), and my favourite, fried char kway teow (fried flat rice noodles in pork lard with dark soy and salty cockles), all for between 3 to 6 Singapore dollars. I leave central Singapore for the eastern Katong district, checking into Hotel Indigo. There’s more of a feeling of progressive gentrification here, a neighbourhood that’s up-and-coming, more residential but with all of the trendy coffee and doughnut shops, too. The area along East Coast Rd is a terrace of wellloved conserved heritage houses, painted in vivid pinks, greens and yellows. This district is also known for its restaurants serving Peranakan cuisine and Indigo’s adjacent restaurant Baba Chews—housed within the former Joo Chiat Police Station—actively promotes a full marvel of grub influenced by Peranakan and cuisines from across the Strait of Malacca. The Peranakan-inspired Baba Chews is run by Chef Alvin Leong who tells me that this honed style of cuisine is rooted in memory with menus centred around home cooking. “I had a Malay auntie who used a mortar to prepare pastes, as did my mum. I pay tribute by incorporating mum’s rendang recipe into the menu.” Other staples include extravagantly named dishes such as “Nonya Style Lion Head”—stewed meatball stuffed with quail egg and rempah sauce—and “Iberico DECEMBER 2018 | 73
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Pork Collar Babi Panggang”—pork collar prepared satay-style, served with homemade nut sauce. For breakfast, I went local, ordering kaya toast, runny eggs and coffee. The toast arrived cut into thick rectangles and lathered in creamy SCS Butter. A naughty, deleterious start to my day. It’s in Katong where I also stumbled upon an outpost of Tim Ho Wan— the Michelinawarded dim sum restaurant from Hong Kong—and the nearly-century old Chin Mee Chin Confectionery, a local institution where charcoal-grilled kaya buns are the order of the day. Kim Choo Kuch Chang is another stop-off, where I feast on glutinous rice nyonya chang dumplings. Then, it’s back across the island, returning to the centralised bustle and meals at a handful of Singapore’s most celebrated restaurants.
a menu rooted in nostalgia, each course accompanied by a postcard detailing the genesis behind each creation, many of which are influnced by a family member. The Chilli Crab Ice Cream was blowout; neither one thing nor the other and yet, everything. Burnt Ends is a spectacle offering too, a long, narrow restaurant with an open kitchen and counter-top seating. Food is cooked over fire because, well, gas and ring ovens are simply regarded as one long bored eye roll. Australian Chef Dave Pynt applies an uncluttered simplicity to his food, and it takes serious skill and nerve to grill a beautiful fish like Kingfish and get it right. The skin here is grilled to that curious place between gelatinous and crisp. Just about everything is touched by flame or smoke giving a robust flavour, from the likes of flatiron steak to King crab with garlic brown butter.
I meet up again with Chef Han for dinner at Labyrinth (Raffles Ave)—winner of a Michelin-star and the Epicurean Star Award’s Best Asian Fine Dining prize— followed by meals at Burnt Ends (Teck Lim Rd) and Jaan (Swissôtel The Stamford); a trio of restaurants each competitively striving forward, establishing themselves as players in Asia’s busy food market.
At Jaan, Chef Kirk Westaway is making the boldest move of all, breaking out from the French traditions that swamp great swaths of the Singapore fine dining establishment and promoting English food—gulp! Yes, hear me out. He’s not chasing the fashionable, but turning to home—he grew up in the Devonshire countryside—and cooking with a bold inventiveness with results beguiling and ingenue fresh.
At Labyrinth, I ate one of the most accomplished and personal meals of my life, Chef Han producing
The “English Garden” course is a Chef Kirk creation requiring painstaking dedication, and a steady hand,
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over the border | TRAVEL
consisting of over 30 individually plated vegetables, dressed with a Scottish kombu dashi poured from a small watering can. Chef Kirk demonstrates an intense eye for detail and an instinct for clean, bright, showy design, all of which is on full display here. Remaining days are spent on foot, undoubtedly a good thing given the obscene volume of food I had consumed, walking the shoreline, through East Coast Park to Tanjong Beach. I passed Long Beach Seafood Restaurant— “Creator of the Original and the Best Black Pepper Crab of Singapore!”—and couldn’t resist peaking in at the tanks of monster crabs, deciding on the spot that I had to have one.
stretched across districts on what is a relatively small island. At every level and every price-point, there is deliciousness and serious, proper, belly-out gourmandising to be had, some rooted heavily in tradition—vendors, hawkers and costermongers doing their thing, year after year—others in the vanguard of global gastronomy. I can’t be as bombastic as to say it’s the greatest eating city in the world, but it’s a masterclass in mass feeding across economical divides and in the metaphysics of how, what and why we eat, as well as where our food comes from. David was a guest of InterContinental Robertson Quay, InterContinental Bugis and Hotel Indigo Katong. www. robertsonquay.intercontinental.com www.singapore.intercontinental.com www.ihg.com/hotelindigo
Crabs are a must in Singapore and they come in various renditions. They go through a two-step cooking process; first boiled, then fried so the meat doesn’t stick to the shell. My two-kilo black pepper crab is a king crustacean, and I pick, pluck and pull at its flesh, all of the fiddly gratification of removing the meat from the shell. I also visited the punkier Holy Crab (Tan Quee Lan St), Chef Elton Seah’s Singaporestyle crab offering where they serve the “Orgasmic Crab” cooked in salted egg. Few cities have left me as filled and fulfilled as Singapore. It’s a strange global gathering of cuisines
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ART
| ART & CULTURE
“Nuance” Enjoy the silence
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n this world of social media addiction and a clamouring brashness for everyone’s opinion to be heard, things have become very loud. “Nuance” art series, however, was made to be quiet. Through subtlety of expression, subject matter, and painting technique; it does not command, it converses. It does not preach, it provides room for thought. It does not tell, it transforms, both itself and the viewers. Look past the shades of colour and paint to see the far more prismatic shades of meaning and expression. The world is quiet here. Enjoy the silence. This is Mar Jefferson Go’s first solo exhibition. He is passionate about visual arts, particularly painting and illustration. His style is mostly figurative with subject matters that aspire to express visceral emotion through combination of portraiture and natural elements. Go holds a Degree in Fine Arts from the University of San Carlos, Philippines and resides in Bangkok. “Nuance” exhibition runs until December 8 The Company Bangkok 23F. GMM Grammy Place, 50 Sukhumvit Soi 21 092 435 4240 | Mon-Fri, 9am-7pm www.thecompany.jp
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ART & CULTURE | exhibitions
DECEMBER 1-15 Kraisak Cho Why
41 Soi Nana | 02 254 4629 www.facebook.com/chowhybkk
Multi award winning artist and 1984 Silaprakorn graduate Kraisak Chirachaisakul will be taking over the whole Cho Why, featuring two distinct shows. An extension of his blurred memory from CICA Museum in Korea on the first floor and his series of Royal portraits on the second, both telling powerful tales of times gone by, layered with iconic colours and textures. Kraisak moves the process beyond the norm, turning a production technique into an truly stunning art form. His innovations and vision opened our eyes to a new world of artistic process.
UNTIL DECEMBER 21 True Will
Chin’s Gallery
Arden Rama 3, 33/58 Yannawa Rd, Chong Nonsi 086 371 6009 | Wed-Sun 11am-7pm | chinsgallery.com
Curated by Charoen.Victor, this international group of exhibitions takes upon each artist's moment, singular or plural, that shapes their will of art today. The journey, be it painful, of regrets; or happiness or joy, is what leads to works of today in this moment in time. Internationally featured artists include Faith XLVII from South Africa, currently based in Los Angeles; L.A. graffiti artist EVOL; Spanish painter and sculptor, Okuda; Korean artist, Jimin Hong; and several local artists from a background of design, photography, sculpture and street art.
UNTIL DECEMBER 23 The truth of the matter(s) is S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre
160/3 Sukhumvit 3 | 02 662 0299 | Tue-Fri, 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun, 11am-6pm | www.sac.gallery
A solo exhibition of Weerapong Sansomporn who created this series over the course of a year at the Thaillywood artist residency. It was here, far from others, that Weerapong had the time and space to find what he was doing, searching for truth through memory, emotion and feeling. In isolation, he dealt with his emotions thru his work and deconstructed his understandings of figurative work. Symbolising his truth in a different way, he created this metalworks series that seeks to express the natural impression of engaging with oneself honestly. 78 | DECEMBER 2018
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exhibitions | ART & CULTURE
UNTIL JANUARY 15 Bangkok Metropolis Ananta Kama Gallery
Lhong1919, Chiangmai Rd, Klong San | 090 910 6863 Daily: 10am-7pm | facebook.com/anantakama
Ananta Kama Gallery is proud to present, during the Bangkok Art Biennale, the works of two young Thai artists, both strongly inspired by the contrasting restlessness and powerful life of the Thai capital. Dust Pimchangthong is a well-known painter whose large landscapes are already part of many international collections and Pongsakul Bas Chalao reveals an intimate, almost secret point of view of modern Bangkok city life. Together, the works display a brilliant and vibrant telling of the "Bangkok Metropolis".
UNTIL FEBRUARY 3 Bangkok Art Biennale 2018 The Company Bangkok
939 Rama 1 Rd, Main Gallery, 1st , 5th 7th and 8th Floor Tue-Sun, 10am-9pm | en.bacc.or.th
Thailand’s first international art biennale promises to transform Bangkok into one of the world-class cities for art and culture, under the title “Beyond Bliss”. At BACC, 26 contemporary artists will be featured, including Choi Jeon Hwa (South Korea), known for his outstanding colourful art made of everyday objects. Torlarp Larpjaroensook (Thailand), who aims to connect himself and the audience with their memories, using objects with past stories in his collage sculpture. And Japanese contemporary artist known for her polka dotted artworks, Yayoi Kusuma. MIXED CLAMS nam sausage + coriander lime broth LOCATION Conveniently located just 20 metres off Convent Rd (on Soi Pipat 2), in Bangkok’s Silom District OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant
www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com
DECEMBER 2018 | 79
ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight
BANGKOK DOLLS MUSEUM:
Faces from a Vanishing Time In a hidden alley in the shadow of an expressway, a museum showcases the passion of a lady who manufactured collectible Thai dolls.
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t the end of Ratchataphan (Mor Leng) Alley on Ratchaprarop Road, a small house is home to an unusual toy collection imbued in nostalgia. The Bangkok Dolls Museum was previously home to the late Khunying Tongkorn Chandavimol, a lady born in Phitsanulok who became Thailand’s most famous doll maker. Chandavimol’s passion started after discovering Japanese dolls in 1945. Returning home, she created her own manufacturing house in 1957, her skills turning her into a reference in the world of collectable dolls. She was later recognised by the late HM King Bhumibol who conferred her? the title of Khunying, making her a Companion of the Most Illustrious Order of Chula Chom Klao—an order rewarding craftsmanship. The first doll manufactured by Chandavimol was offered to HM Queen Sirikit back to 1958 and a 80 | DECEMBER 2018
model of the doll is indeed on display in the museum, surrounded by hundreds of other figures. Most of the dolls tell a story of an ancient Thai culture, history and way of life. There are also dolls collected by Chandavimol from her many trips around the world—dolls representing Queen Elizabeth of England and Napoleon. The Thai-inspired dolls show popular dances of various provinces but also display dolls dressed in uniforms or outfits typical of the 1970s and 1980s. The most beautiful ones are dancers performing the Ramayana epic poem, Ramakien in Thailand. Each handmade doll beautifully depicts various characters of the Ramakien. They are all dressed with exquisite detail—each shiny costume being manufactured in the factory with the same attention to detail as the real, lifesize performers. In the workshop next to the bangkok101.com
museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE
museum, visitors will see ladies fixing minuscule jewels or Khon masks on the dolls, carefully assembling the small figures. The museum was partially renovated a couple of years ago with new displays added, such as a giant diorama of hundreds of dolls reproducing the Battle of Maiyarap, Hanuman, Monkey King, helped Lord Rama fight The Demon King Tosakanth. With Christmas around the corner, there are also dolls representing Santa Claus as well as a diorama showing the birth of Jesus. You’ll also find an onsite shop selling dolls, which 30 years ago, were perhaps a more popular gift than today. Still, their exquisite sense bangkok101.com
of detail makes them a unique piece of collectable art. Buy them before Bangkok Dolls turns into Thailand history.
The Bangkok Dolls Museum and Shop is located in Ratchataphan Alley 85 on Ratchaprarop Road, a couple of minutes away by tuk tuk or taxi from Phaya Thai and Victory Monument BTS stations. The museum is free of charge and open to public from Tuesday to Saturday from 8am to 5pm. DECEMBER 2018 | 81
Zing Bakery’s protein-packed salad
AROY
| FOOD & DRINK
christmas and NYE celebrations
Throughout the festive season Mandarin Oriental Bangkok becomes a holiday wonderland, with glittering lights, seasonal decorations and, taking pride of place in the hotel’s iconic lobby, a magnificent Christmas tree designed by their very own Floral Ambassador. Celebrate Christmas with loved ones and friends at one of the hotel’s nine restaurants and bars, each offering a superb selection of festive fare with gourmet cuisine, unique ambiance and, of course, the legendary Oriental service. Events run from Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, through New Years Eve and New Years Day. www.mandarinoriental.com/bangkok
festive tea treats Starting from December 1st, The St. Regis Bangkok presents its annual festive afternoon tea, 2:00pm5:00pm, in The St. Regis Bar and in The Lounge. This unique treat is also available with add-on festive cocktails and consisits of a luxury set for two people, priced at B1,800++, complete with a selection of TWG tea and coffee. To upgrade the experience and boost the seasonal cheer, festive cocktails are available to add on at B200++ per glass. Among the creative seasonal treats, enjoy gourmet Christmas sandwiches, choux puffs and sausage rolls, sweet and savory pies, festive scones and cookies, Christmas pudding, yule log, stollen, tarts and much more. www.stregisbangkok.com
oozy cheesy deliciousness It’s big! It’s cheesy! It’s oozy and delicious! The “Truffled Camembert Burger” is here. Yes folks, the inventive chefs at 25 Degrees Burgers, at Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, have created a burger to savour, made from succulent ground sirloin patty, flavourful truffled Camembert—deep-fried to ensure unctuous melting perfection—maple candied bacon walnut, red onion, tomato, butterhead lettuce and garlic aioli, all held between a soft bun. Priced at just B420++ and available throughout December. Open 24 hours a day, diners can enjoy an enticing menu of succulent burgers, salads and sides, pancakes and desserts, and an excellent selection of beers, wines and cocktails. www.facebook.com/25DegreesBangkok
healthy, protein-packed treats Discover why Zing Bakery, at Centara Grand at CentralWorld, is more than just tea, coffee and cakes with their all-day menu of healthy salads, starting at just B180. With a handy central Bangkok location, Zing’s protein-packed salads include smoked duck breast with mixed greens and citrus dressing, grilled chicken tostada salad with crisp corn tortillas topped with grilled chicken and avocado cream and the classic Caesar salad with crisp romaine and dressing. Open daily from 7am, Zing Bakery makes a perfect pit-stop for a light breakfast, nutrition-packed lunch or indulgent afternoon snack. www.centarahotelsresorts.com/centaragrand/cgcw/restaurant/zing
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DECEMBER 2018 | 83
FOOD & DRINK | special report
Star-Studded Soirée 27 restaurants were awarded stars last month when the Michelin Guide Bangkok, Phuket and Phang-Nga 2019 was revealed. Words by David J. Constable
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xpectations were high for the second edition of the Michelin Guide Bangkok last month with the famous guide covering two new territories outside Bangkok: Phuket and Phang-Nga. In the latest edition, 217 dining and 67 lodging establishments were featured–with a total of four two-star restaurants, of which one is a new addition; and 23 one-star establishments, of which 10 are new additions. Speaking about the 2019 selection, Gwendal Poullennec, international Director of Michelin Guides, said: “This year’s selection highlights the diversity of culinary experiences, both within and outside of Bangkok. We have also seen the blooming trend of the degustation menu, whereby chefs carefully design a complete experience for diners.” In the 2019 edition, all of the two-star restaurants from the previous selection— Gaggan, Le Normandie, and Mezzaluna— retained their awards. The only addition, moving from one-star to two, was Sühring, where chef brothers, Mathias and Thomas Sühring, offer unique and contemporary European dishes using their very own style of modern German cooking. Of the 23 one-star establishments in the latest edition, Le Du and Gaa are the only two restaurants that progress from the ‘Plate’—a designation given to restaurants for a good meal with fresh ingredients and capable preparation—to earn one-star, while eight are new entries. Among these new entries, five are located in Central Bangkok: Canvas, Methavalai Sorndaeng, R-Haan, Saawan, and Sorn. The other two one-star restaurants are located within Bangkok’s vicinity: Ruean Panya and Suan Thip. Street food favourite Jay Fai retained their one-star. “It’s my greatest honour to win the award again and it also proves that we can still maintain Michelin
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special report | FOOD & DRINK
standards,” said 72-year-old Supinya Junsuta, better known as Jay Fai. In addition, three restaurants previously with one-star—Elements, Nahm, and Saneh Jaan—have retained their awards, despite having new chefs at the helm. There was one restaurant in Phuket awarded one-star: PRU. A sophisticated restaurant, tucked inside a luxury resort, offering delicate and neatly presented dishes created using many ingredients sourced from its own 96-hectare organic farm. “This is something very special,” said Chef Jim Ophorst of PRU. “I’m not as nervous now and will be able to sleep better, but there’s still a lot of work ahead. My ultimate goal is to create a 100% locally sourced menu.” However, there were no stars awarded to restaurants in Phang-Nga this year. The Michelin Guide Bangkok has a fiveyear budget of B140 million paid for by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT). The guide is expected to promote the country as an international gastronomic destination.
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FOOD & DRINK | special report
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special report | FOOD & DRINK
Full list of Michelin stars: Three Stars None Two Stars Gaggan Le Normandie Mezzaluna Sühring (New) One Star Bo.lan Canvas (New) Chim by Siam Wisdom Elements Gaa (New) Ginza Sushi Ichi Jay Fai J’AIME by Jean-Michel Lorrain L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Le Du (New) Methavalai Sorndaeng (New) nahm Paste PRU (New) R-Haan (New) Ruean Panya (New) Saneh Jaan Saawaan (New) Sorn (New) Suan Thip (New) Savelberg Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin Upstairs at Mikkeller “The first edition had a successful impact as more tourists want to discover the diversity of Thai cuisine,” TAT governor Yuthasak Supasorn said. “Popular tourist destinations, Phuket and Phang Nga are also included in the new edition. The cuisine in Phuket is distinctive and flavourful, with a wonderful blend of influences from India, Malaysia, China and the Peranakan ethnic group, while Phang Nga is full of eateries with authentic southern fare incorporating seafood, herbs and spices. We plan to cover more territories in the future,” he added.
NOTE: For a full list of winners, including all Plate and Bib Gourmand awards, visit: www.guide.michelin.com
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FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories
Kitchen Backstories
From Dessert to Dye: The ‘Jack’-fruit of all Trades.
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s a child growing up in New Zealand, I would always look forward to the days when we would host dinners for our Thai family friends. On these occasions, I would invariably be sent to the pantry to retrieve a coveted can of jackfruit, or khanun, and be in charge of releasing the soft, yellow, fleshy ear-shaped fruits from their syrupy metal prisons. As we prepared them into slivers to add to our colourful, coconut-milk-based iced desserts—I would delight in being able to nibble on a few pieces, relishing in each the explosion of sweet, fragrant fruitiness on my taste buds: tropical notes of sweet mango, banana and pineapple. It was only upon moving to live in Thailand some years later, however, that I realised my jackfruit treats did not simply come from a can. Instead, they were borne from something rather more sinister-looking: a monstrous, yellow-green, mutant lovechild of a fig and a mulberry—that would cause quite the injury if it decided to dislodge in the midst of one’s entranced admiration. The jackfruit is the largest tree-born fruit in the world, weighing up to 45 kilograms—and measuring up to 90cm x 50cm. Believed to be indigenous to the rainforests of the Western Ghats mountain range of Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. As a lover of both food and culture, she believes that food offers us much more than just a means of sustenance; to her, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell the unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods 88 | DECEMBER 2018
India, jackfruits spread early on to other parts of India and Southeast Asia. In Thailand, the earliest historical record of jackfruit is found in King Ramkhamhaeng’s black stele, inscribed over 700 years ago in Sukhothai, in 1292. Whilst the most common encounter you might have with jackfruit in Thailand today might be with the mounds of freshly extricated, ripe yellow segments on a Silom Road fruit cart—or in an iced dessert—the small unripe fruits can also be used in savoury stews and curried foods, such as gaeng kanun, or young jackfruit curry—a spicy traditional northern Thai dish. Jackfruit is also said to have medicinal properties, being considered beneficial to stimulating digestion and increasing appetite; along with the decoction of its root, it is also traditionally used to calm diarrhoea. The seeds can also be boiled or roasted. Said to be a tonic for general health and invigoration of energy, they are especially helpful in promoting convalescence, boosting immunity and remedying chronic fatigue or illness. Moreover, as if its culinary and medicinal uses were not enough—jackfruit also plays a role in holy life. The heartwood of the jackfruit tree is traditionally used by the forest monks of rural Northeastern Thailand to dye their robes: woodchips are boiled in water, creating a distinctive, rich, brown dye called kaen khanun. The dye is believed to have special qualities, such that robes rarely need to be washed; they are simply reboiled in jackfruit dye once a week and left to dry in the sun. The medicinal properties in the dye are, moreover, trusted by monks to offer immunity to fungal infections, skin disorders and body odour. From dessert to dye, anti-diarrheal to antiperspirant, I, for one, will be looking at this ‘Jack’-fruit of all trades in a new light going forward. bangkok101.com
chew on this | FOOD & DRINK
Is pad Thai, Thai?
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Everything is not as straightforward as it seems for this seemingly Thai-invented staple.
iving in Thailand and writing about food, I thought I had tried everything; sucked, slurped, poked, prodded, scooped up every little morsel in this ravenous city. Well, I thought I had. When a friend visited from England recently, he was keen to explore Bangkok’s street food, to get down and dirty amidst the wealth of sweaty vendors and wheeled noodle carts. His first question: “Where’s a good pad Thai?” And then it struck me: I don’t know. I haven’t eaten pad Thai since arriving here. I set myself a personal mission: to find Bangkok’s best pad Thai, but from the go, faced obstacles and contradictions. I had always believed the recipe to be, well, Thai, but this seems much contested. The country’s national dish, might not be very Thai at all, a point that fuelled my interest even further. The year was 1938 and six years earlier, Phibunsongkhram—better known as Phibun—played a prominent role as a military officer in a coup that stripped Thailand’s monarchy of its absolute powers. Phibun, worried about his country’s independence, disintegration, and, most of all, support for his rule, decided to transform the country’s culture and identity. He changed the country’s name from Siam to Thailand,
David J. Constable is a British writer currently residing in Bangkok, where he is the Editor of Bangkok 101 and the Managing Editor of Talisman Media. He has written for a wide range of magazines and newspapers, including Condé Nast Traveller, Tatler, Jamie Oliver magazine and Fine Dining Lovers. He is currently working on his first book, a collection of travel assignments. www.davidjconstable.com bangkok101.com
and, wanting to create a strong, nationalistic, and modern state; announced a competition to create of a new national dish, from which, pad Thai emerged. Phibun’s son maintains that his family cooked the recipe before Phibun made it government policy, although he does not remember who invented it. The pad Thai recipe though may have an even longer history. The use of stir-fried rice noodles, not to mention a wealth of other ingredients—bean sprouts, shallots, fish sauce, prawns and peanuts—and varying spices, appears to have its roots in Chinese cooking. Its full name is kway teow phat Thai. Kway teow means rice noodles in a Chinese dialect, and the entire name means stir-fried rice noodles Thai-style. Noodles and stir-frying are very Chinese, and immigration likely brought the practice to then Siam. Chombhala Chareonying, former MinisterCounsellor at the Royal Thai Embassy in Washington, D.C., points out, Thai food is basically Indo-Chinese in origin, arriving with settlers crossing from southern China. The cooked meats and vegetables in pad Thai resemble dishes prepared by the Cantonese and Tae Chiew from China’s eastern Guangdong province. Nevertheless, the flavours and textures are pure Thai. To help popularise the dish, the government supplied people with a basic recipe, encouraging vendors to make use of their carts, selling on Bangkok streets. And, because carts move so easily, pad Thai became a convenience food. It may even be the original fast food in Thailand. From the streets it spread to rural villages, with locals preparing, selling and sharing the new Thai staple. My mission to locate the best pad Thai will likely be an eternal quest. Recipes and ingredients differ from place-to-place, but whether its originally Thai or not, it remains the most recognisable and certainly one of the tastiest, of all Thai street food staples. DECEMBER 2018 | 89
FOOD & DRINK | eat like nym
Chinese Thai curry in Chinatown
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his little food corner has a history that goes back many generations. Kaeng Kari Nai Yong is the name of its most famous dish from Mr. Yong, the creator. It all began when Mr. Yong’s father arrived in Thailand in a ship from China years ago. He started from renting a house from a Thai family, from whom he learned how to make Thai curries. The unique taste of Nai Yong’s curry is derived from the blending of its Chinese and Thai origins. I would like to call it a Chinese style Thai curry. The curry paste base is not quite as spicy or aromatic as a typical Thai or Indian curry, but there is a lovely harmony to its taste that is lighter on the coconut milk and softer on the curry paste. One might imagine that this unique combination could compromise the identity of this cuisine but I can assure you it doesn’t. Those recipes were passed from his father to Mr. Yong who then opened a little street food stall close to the Chinese opera theater in Yaowarach, in the heart of Bangkok’s bustling Chinatown. This curry creates a new gastronomic sensation that also reflects the character of the cook. The secret is knowing what to mix and what to blend! There are a variety of curries and other prepared Our roving roadside gourmand Nym knows her local grub insideout and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. Follow Nym on IG: nymster
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foods here. But the stars of the show are the beef and pork curries. Beef and tendons are stewed for an hour before being added to Mr. Yong’s curry mix. The pork curry is comprised of marinated shoulder part and ‘moo sam chan, which literally means ‘three-layer pork’; a reference to the layers of meat and fat that comprise the pork belly cut used in this dish. Ordering a combination of beef and pork is typical for the locals and allows me to enjoy the different tastes and textures of both dishes. It may not look particularly fancy in the pot and is not much more glamourous when poured on top of a mound of steamed rice but once I get a spoonful in my mouth, all doubts disappear. Since Bangkok has always been known for a variety of street food that welcomes all to explore new exciting culinary sensations. I just love how Mr. Yong still preserves the authenticity of his cooking and the simplicity of the place, which is something unique that can only be found here. Providing a marvelous backdrop to this culinary joy are the lovely wooden accordion doors of this old Chinese-Thai family shophouse that have been home to this business for two generations. Indeed, the family that runs Mr. Yong’s Kaeng Kari shophouse restaurant will continue to make foodies happy for many generations to come. Address : Nai Yong’ s Kaeng Kari, opens from 5 pm until 2 am everyday except Monday. Located at the corner of Soi Yaowarach Tel: 082 799 2914 bangkok101.com
bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK
So Over It
With pressure mounting and chefs and management ever more demanding, are we seeing a shift in the quality of restaurant service?
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or this bitchin’ series, I’d like to broach the subject of over-service. “Over-service” I hear you scoff. I mean, does that even exist in Thailand, a country famous for its abundance of smiles and courteousness, but which still finds it challenging to deliver rice before a piping hot curry turns into lukewarm sludge. It is something diners, I’m sure, have experienced everywhere, particularly with Michelin having set their starry eyes securely on Asia. Service in this city has indeed stepped-up, but some have gone beyond the call of duty, feeling the need to provide overbearing and excessive service for their diners. Sounds spoilt and petulant right? Maybe it is, but there are clear examples of over-service to be found in local establishments, mostly in places where you’re spending a pretty penny for the privilege. Waiting staff appear to switch to “standby” mode, lurking around your table, staring like hawks with eyes that bore into the back of your skulls. It’s enough to make a diner paranoid to the point that you self-moderate your lively discussion to hushed tones. Another pet hate is when staff are on a mission to refill your wine or water like it’s the last call at a An Australian-born entrepreneur with Thai roots, Samantha Proyrungtong is the founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community.She also runs her own marketing consulting agency and has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. bangkok101.com
beverage buffet. But the worst of all is losing that perfect bite, that magical morsel you’ve been saving until the end of your meal, which is suddenly airlifted from your table and sent flying back into the kitchen to be trashed. “Woah… woah… I haven’t finished yet!” I understand that chefs and restaurants are under more pressure, but is it because chefs and management are over-explaining, demanding more from their staff? “Yes, thank you for describing those rare ingredients by their scientific names, inviting me to touch that indigenous tree bark, allowing me to smell that vile extract of something-foraged. That took 10 minutes of my eating time, and now I’m at a complete loss—what are we eating again?” We, foodies, do lap this stuff up, and it does preempt the pedantic questions of that one overzealous foodie. But really, why not leave some of it a mystery? Some restaurants have responded to over-doing it by under-servicing wonderfully. For instance, not unfolding your napkin and placing it in your lap, because maybe you’re like me and have an aversion to strangers’ hands reaching dangerously close to your crotch? Another great “under-service” initiative is providing integrated cutlery drawers into dining tables. This means you may serve yourself without having to encounter any awkward “Pretty-womandoesn’t-know-which-utensils-to-use” moment. I actually find that taking some of the responsibility as a diner yourself is quite a liberating experience. When all is said and done, the beauty is in the balance. Such is life, such is everything, and frankly, who wouldn’t choose a touch of over-service when being wined and dined, just to feel a little special? DECEMBER 2018 | 91
FOOD & DRINK | review
Red Sky
A festive set menu for New Year’s Eve applying prime ingredients & great skill.
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he outdoor view from Red Sky over Bangkok is particularly perfect for dinner in the twilight dusk. Upon arrival, I was presented with a wine list and drinks menu, although opted for a non-alcoholic “Green Horizon” (B260). The blend of tangy kiwi, Granny Smith apple and lime juice with kiwi slices tasted sweeter than it looked but was a refreshing relief given the evening temperature. The special menu, titled “The New Year’s Eve Gala Dinner” (B15,555++ with a complimentary bottle of G.H. Mumm Grand Cordon Brut per couple) by Chef de Cuisine Christian Ham, began with an amuse bouche and a firm, plump oyster basted in buttery French watercress potage. A variety of bread was then served with a 2% salted Beurre D’Isigny and green olives. The restaurant bakes 20 types of bread daily from scratch. I wanted to binge, but showed restraint, preparing myself for what was to come. The Russian Oscietra Caviar was a show-stealer, served in its tin alongside charming spoonfuls
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of finely shredded egg yolks and whites, diced brunoise shallots, chopped chives, crème fraîche, lemon wedges, thinly sliced crispy baguette croutons, and a smooth blini. Accompanied by a pure shot of crisp Absolute Vodka. Up next was pan-seared foie gras with caramelised apples, a mulled wine reduction and crunchy gingerbread swirl; a delicate, dimensional sculpture of a creation, packed with texture. The foie gras with white sesame was well balanced, soft and brittle in the mouth; however, it was the sauce which truly stood out, made from star anise and marrying well with the gingery crisp and petit croutons. Then, a chestnut broth with generous black winter truffles and Echiré salted butter offered a palpable character. The whole sweet chestnuts arrived in thick, creamy, savoury soup, with milky foam and briny liquid. The pungent, seasonal truffles from France and baby scoops of butter on a toasted baguette helped to exude bold French charm. Another course followed: Brittany
lobster medallion in an intense white port wine sauce. Accurately cooked and neatly separated, the flesh was easy to delve into, my favourite part being the succulent meat from the claws. The lightly seasoned asparagus with a mix of mild julienne carrots and turnips allowed the lobster to shine. Pink rosé Champagne sherbet infused with long black pepper coulis cleansed the palate for the upcoming juicy monkfish. Two options for the mains include Kobe A3 Wagyu tenderloin with Perigueux black truffle and mashed potatoes; and moist monkfish with homardine sauce and vitelotte mash and chips. Reuniting with chestnuts, a William pear tatin tart and whisky ice cream was delicious, the two-way pear—poached and candied—was a perfect final touch to the meal. by Fha Kanch
Red Sky
55F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld Open: 7pm-2am Tel: 02 100 6255 www.centarahotelsresorts.com/redsky bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Ruen Urai
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A beautiful “House of Gold” preserving old traditions.
et in a century-old Thai house and hidden among the lush tropical garden of the Rose Hotel off Surawongse Road, Ruen Urai—“House of Gold”—is said to have once belonged to a herbal medicine doctor during the reign of King Rama V. The restaurant originally opened in 2007 and along with the house was recently restored following the original owner’s heritage. This included expansive menus filled with herbs, spices, as well as medicinal qualities. What really matters here is the food, but you could easily spend an evening walking the dining room, exploring the house’s unique goldenteak wood design, studying the collectables and wealth of unique antiques and curios. But to the food, which is a thoughtful mix of great ideas and ingredients, never pushed, never over-worked. It is also exceptionally good value with most of the plates priced at between B220 and B450 and only entering the upper hundreds for large-scale meats and fish. bangkok101.com
Everything that arrives is modestly delivered, yet high on flavour and creativity. Ghai Haw Bai Dtoey (B280)—fried marinated chicken wrapped in pandanus leaves—is hot and fresh, just the right side of crispy with a natural sweet ness f ro m the l ea ves . Meanwhile, Hors d’oeuvres Lanna (B300)—Northern Thai-style hors d’oeuvres—include chilli relish with minced pork, tomatoes and spicy pork sausages. A salad of Yum Sai Bua (B280) with water lily stems, pork, prawns and glugs of coconut milk dressing is like a breath of cool air after hours in the sun. It is bright and fresh but still, of course, has a chilli kick. There are four Dégustation Menus—“Classic Thai”, “Ruen Urai Signatures”, “Inspired Siamese” and “Vegetarian Delights”—each offering a deep-dive into the fine delicacies of Thai gastronomy. Exotic flavours are punctuated by fiery piquancy, dancing in the mouth. From the à la carte, the
main Mhu Bpaa Pad Phed (B380)— sautéed wild boar in spicy curry sauce—jumps from the page This is vivid, thrilling stuff. Cooking that stays with you. A couple of dishes will set you up very nicely, and if you have space for dessert, then you won’t be disappointed either. A wide repertoire includes historical sweets re-imagined for a contemporary crowd, along with the likes of Saku Cantaloupe Nai Loog Maprow Ohn (B80)—Sago pearls and cantaloupe in coconut milk served in young coconut—and Tong Yhib Tong Yhord Foy Tong (B180)— Thai desserts cooked from egg yolks and syrup in three forms: flower, water drop and thread—and an extensive list of ice creams, sorbets and gelato. by David J. Constable
Ruen Urai
118 Surawongse Rd Tel: 02 266 8268 72 ext. Ruen Urai Open: Daily, 12:30-11pm www.ruen-urai.com DECEMBER 2018 | 93
FOOD & DRINK | review
Terrazza
A special Italian Christmas menu full of festive sparkle.
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hristmas in Thailand. Fat Santa Clause sweating in a red suit. It shouldn’t work, but it does, he shouldn’t travel here, but he does. This is the great wintery season, except that it’s not. It’s 40-degrees, and there’s not a snowball in sight. You can though eat like it’s Christmas. Well, a Western Christmas. Well, actually an Italian Christmas. Terrazza Ristorante at Pathumwan Princess Hotel is offering a special Italian-style Christmas Eve menu, all geared around the jovial celebration of the festive season. Chef Roberto Panariello has prepared a unique 4-course menu featuring dishes from distinctive regions of Italy. Although all is not what it seems; and while this is a 4-course menu, it is, in fact, six plates of food, and all for the impressively 94 | DECEMBER 2018
economical price of only B1,500 nett per person, and that includes a glass of Prosecco. Located on the 8th floor of the hotel, Terrazza, aptly named from the Italian for “terrace”, nestles alongside the hotel’s impressive swimming pool. Diners are offered the choice of the indoor PISA Room or outdoor al fresco dining, both set within the smooth ambiance of a magical Mediterranean setting, overlooking bustling Bangkok. The food is bourne from the globally sophisticated and culturally alert Italians. A starter of Crostini ai Fegatini di Pollo has its roots in Tuscany, a velvety chicken liver pâté with capers and anchovies served on thick-cut ciabatta bread has a nod of the rustic. This is followed by Cappelletti Ripieni and ravioli filled
with diced chicken, mushrooms and fragrant rosemary in a rich chicken and Cognac broth. The Cappelletti is a standout dish, perfect as a standalone broth but with the addition of several stuffed pasta parcels is lifted to something greater. Mains kick things up a notch with a trio of offerings from the Puglia, Molise and Campania regions. Firstly, Capitone alla Brace and a perfectly grilled skewered eel; followed by Baccalà Arracanato and a plump codfish rolled in breadcrumbs with an accompanying Caponata-style vegetable intermix of tomatoes, walnuts, pine nuts, garlic, raisins, and toasted oregano; then, finally, Cotechino con Lenticchie e Polenta Fritta and a deliciously fatty, meltin-the-mouth pork sausage, slowcooked over several hours and served with lentils and deep-fried, crispy polenta. It’s a lot to take in, but it’s Christmas, so you’re free to indulge. Dessert is a straightforward affair, nothing heavy or stodgy, but Struffoli, a Neapolitan dish made of deep-fried balls of dough glazed in honey, served with a healthy dollop of Mascarpone cream and finished with multicoloured sprinkles. This is all classic cooking using the very best ingredients, carefully sourced to best represent Italy’s diverse regions. Everything is executed with passion by Chef Roberto, a festive offering sure to elevate your Christmas celebrations. by David J. Constable
Terrazza Ristorante & Pizzeria
8th Floor, Pathumwan Princess Hotel Open: Daily, 6:30am-10:30pm Tel: 02 216 3700 ext. 20818 www.pprincess.com/bangkok-dining/ terrazza-italian-restaurant bangkok101.com
review | FOOD & DRINK
Latest Recipe
A delicious line-up of international treats at Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi.
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fter a long week at work I felt the need to spoil myself and thanks to some online surfing, discovered Le Meridien’s weekend brunch deal. Specialising in Western and Asian cuisine, they also offer a 30 per cent discount for online bookings, so my girlfriend and I headed over for some oysters, fizz and gossip. Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Golf Resort & Spa is also part of a golf club and upon my arrival, I spotted a host of chequeredtrousered putters at reception. I shimmied past and headed to Latest Recipe, the hotel’s contemporarystyle restaurant overlooking the golf course. Surveying the area, I spot a series of chef stations, all waiting to be visited by ravenous visitors, with chefs on-hand to prepare and cook food fresh from the pan. The general assortments are mostly seafood concentrated such as large scrumptious river prawns cooked in a variety of styles like pad thai or in a sweet and sour tamarind sauce. There are huge Alaskan bangkok101.com
King crabs, and shellfish loaded on crushed ice along with the likes of baby octopus and oysters, too. I made a salad choosing from six different dressings including a Thai-style Papaya salad with a limeyspicy dressing, topping it all off with vibrant sushi rolls, sashimi and deliciously crispy tempura. Since I was responsible to pick the seafood and salads, my friend selected the carnivorous options, returning with a lamb shank and veal sausages, but we began it all with lush, melt-inthe-mouth foie gras. Crispy softshell crabs were cooked Thai-style and tasted awesome, and the fresh oysters were plump and juicy. Other meaty highlights included an outdoor barbecue where a chef prepared steaks to the customer’s preference and a spread of well-stocked cold-cuts and cheese. I love that everything came in small portions, which allowed me to try many things. It’s not long before our plates are empty and we agree there’s only one thing left on our minds: dessert.
So, we’re back at the dessert stations facing all of the cakes, crumbles and crêpes suzettes. There’s also sweet Thai mango and homemade ice creams. We picked everything to share and indulged fully. The entire offering is first-rate, catering to friends, family, and even golfers. It’s especially good if you like your steak and pasta cooked to a specific order. The buffet is priced at B1,790 net and is open to the public every Sunday, 12-3pm. And, because the deal also includes pool and Kids Club access, we prepared our bikinis and spent the remainder of the day chilling by the pool. by Zazi Ruengchinda
Latest Recipe
Le Meridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd Tel: 02 118 7711 Open: Daily, 6am-10:30pm www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkksmle-meridien-suvarnabhumi-bangkokgolf-resort-and-spa DECEMBER 2018 | 95
FOOD & DRINK | meal deals
Christmas & New Year’s Eve Dinner Buffet
Westin Grande Sukhumvit, 259 Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 02 207 8000 | www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkwi-the-westin-grandesukhumvit-bangkok Celebrating Seasonal Tastes’ traditionally this year with a classic and creative Christmas Dinner Buffet on 24th December. Soak up the festive atmosphere and indulge in all the goodies accompanied with a generous optional beverage package. Price: B2,699 net (food only) and B3,599 net (Food & Beverages Package).There is also a 30% discount via the Online Store until 20th December 2018.
Fabulous Food & Festive Fun
Pathumwan Princess Hotel, 444 MBK Center Phayathai Rd Tel: 02 216 3700 | www.pprincess.com This festive season join the famous CiTi BiSTRo Christmas Eve Buffet, from 6pm-10pm, showcasing a magnificent feast including a BBQ station, Cheese Board and Desserts action station with homemade ice cream and other tasty indulgences! The evening’s entertainment includes the hotel’s very own carol singers, as well as a visit from Santa himself! The price for this sumptuous feast is B2,200 nett pp (B1,000 for children under 12 yrs), inclusive of 1 festive cocktail or mocktail. Book early and enjoy 30% off.
Festive Afternoon Tea
The St. Regis Bangkok, 159 Rajadamri Rd Tel: 02 207 7777 | www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkxr-the-st-regis-bangkok Throughout the holiday season, The St. Regis Bangkok injects festive flair into their daily Afternoon Tea Ritual. From 1st to 30th December, guests can indulge in The St. Regis Festive Afternoon Tea, at The St. Regis Bar or The Lounge. Priced at B1,800++ complete with a selection of TWG tea and coffee. To upgrade the experience and boost the seasonal cheer, festive cocktails are available to add on at only B200++ per glass. For reservations call 02 207 7777 or visit www.stregisbangkok.com.
Roaring 20s Festive Season
Le Méridien Bangkok, 40/5 Thanon Surawong Tel: 02 232 8888 | www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/bkkdm-le-meridien-bangkok For full celebrations at Le Méridien Bangkok, enjoy Festive Sunday Brunch (23rd), Christmas lunch & dinner (24th) and Christmas Dinner (25th). Let the classic dishes bring back sweet memories and create unforgettable new ones. Also, join NYE and Roaring 20s, champagne-themed party. Early Bird Special: receive 20% discount when pre-booked online until 9th December. For reservations, please call 02 232 8888 or email dining.lmbkk@lemeridien.com
Glamorous Festive Moments 2018
Hotel Muse Bangkok, 55/555 Langsuan Rd Tel: 02 630 4000 | www.hotelmusebangkok.com Embark on a season of great joy during this Christmas and New Year. Luxuriate in the festive moment with our “Glamorous Festive Moments” with the theme of opera in the modern age and intermingling characters through different types of music and live band entertainment at Medici Kitchen & Bar, Babette’s The Steakhouse and The Speakeasy rooftop bar. Put on your black tie and dancing shoes, enjoy an extravagant seafood buffet and raise a toast to 2019. Ticket prices range from B2,500-B12,000. Early Bird promotion is available. 96 | DECEMBER 2018
bangkok101.com
FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino
FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751
Breaking Bread
with Pat Chawanin Supamoon
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Thai regional cuisine at Osha Bangkok, expertly blending ancient traditions with a touch of modernity.
he tasting experience at Osha Thai Restaurant & Bar blurs the fine line between traditional and molecular gastronomy. Chef Pat Chawanin Supamoon plays with frill and foam while sustaining original Thai flavours. The food presentation might look theatrical, but it preserves local herbs and spices essential to local cuisine. The contrast between simple home cooking and elevated fine
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dining allows Chef Pat to find a balance, while clashing the old and new concepts. The plating, however, is not meant to be perceived as fusion, but as cooking and an assembly of ingredients that maintain the national identity, despite visible playful decor. Born and raised in Chiang Mai, Chef Chawanin discovered his passion early in life. His family inspired him to enter the kitchen at a young age, with his mother
owning and operating a small-scale Thai restaurant that served a variety of regional dishes, in which he lent a helping hand. While mum cooked, and sold savoury food, Chef Pat’s sister focussed on dessert. Chef Pat later graduated with a degree in hospitality management, and his Thai culinary journey began in Phuket. He participated in a traditional Thai cooking course in Ang Thong in order to hone his theoretical and practical skills. Over bangkok101.com
breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK
15 years, he familiarised himself with the food service industry, working in topnotch Thai kitchens at five-star hotels. Osha is the first independent restaurant he has been a part of. Joining forces with a team of 14, he divides the workloads for each chef as Thai cooking requires extensive prepping steps, methods, and precisions. “Respecting your job, colleagues, and ingredients means progress,” he says. Aesthetics and teamwork are necessary to attentively produce and meticulously touch up all plates before reaching the dining room. The subtle composition and complex flavour combination in Thai cookery not only demand expertise, but also fierce dedication. Without genuine love and care, no satisfactory result can be achieved. His two signature dishes are a reflection of this: “Sang Wa Goong”—Fresh Prawn Ceviche with Thai Herbs served with Shrimp Flavoured Tapioca Cracker—and “Squids & Salted Egg”—Deep-Fried Squid Tossed with “Chai-Ya” Salted Duck Egg Aioli. For Chef Pat, enthusiasm precedes background in culinary bangkok101.com
education and in the professional kitchen. Not everyone in his team had previous training, but they are committed to continually learning and practicing. To maintain consistency, they are open-minded, always willing to improve according to executive chef’s guidance. Hands-on exercises help build professionalism and raise the standard. “If you put your mind to it and do it every day, paying attention to small details, then you grow in confidence.” Another aspect that constitutes to flawless execution is established guideline. Chef Pat came up with plans and directions to be followed for every seasonal menu—graphics and writing—but the team also participates in tweaking the dishes, ensuring a communal approach. The final product references play a crucial role in quality control. Osha aspires to represent Thainess in haute cuisine, something not always accepted or respected. It takes effort, hard work, and extensive time to create the unique masterpieces that resemble authenticity. In comparison to casual family-style restaurants, upscale
dining draws niche customers from Thailand and abroad. People appreciate the opulent ambience of a sit-down lunch and dinner as well as neat service, forming a relaxing yet sophisticated experience. International and mainly Asian diners expect to embrace Thai food culture along with its stories. The interior and 10-course set menu itself narrate the national epic of Ramayana. Local visitors are intrigued to know the origins and logic of the meal, such as some unfamiliar names from King Rama V era. “The charm in Thai food is the use of herbs. Not many realise that they contain numerous health benefits. Apart from being appetising, they can heal our body like a natural medicine,” Chef Chawanin adds. Staff introduce guests to the healthy effect of indulging each plant as a way to promote the positive impacts of local organic supplies and change people’s perspective towards their geographical availability. interview by Fha Kanch www.oshabangkok.com/ osharestaurant DECEMBER 2018 | 99
FOOD & DRINK | listings
CHINESE Bai Yun
The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers high-quality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm
and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. If you’re visiting, then well worth a visit. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199, Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain www.marriott.com
FRENCH La Vie
J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain
Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.jaime-bangkok.com
French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok Pagoda Chinese Restaurant Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Pagoda Chinese Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Restaurant Le Boeuf This upscale venue serves traditional Lunch, Mon-Sat, noon-3pm The concept here is simple: highCantonese cuisine in a spacious www.viehotelbangkok.com quality steak, liberally doused with a
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URBAN RETREAT
The Rose Residence proudly introduces Thai-inspired Afternoon Tea with savouries from Ruen Urai Fine Thai Cuisine, selected sweets, and tea from Malou Tea Atelier. Served in style from Thursday to Sunday, from 14:30 to 17:30 hours. Reservations are essential. The Rose Residence Bangkok Casual dining and lounge from noon to 11 p.m. 126 Soi Na Wat Hualumphong, Surawongse Road Tel: +66 83 942 9655 or +66 2 266 8277-9 www.theroseresidence.com
FOOD & DRINK | listings unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Executive Apartments Mayfair 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com
ITALIAN
Medinii
Medinii
The Italian inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft
drink. Easy-to-come directly to Asoke BTS station and Sukhumvit MRT. A hidden standout italian fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavour. 35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Lunch: Mon-Sat 11:30amEat Me 2:30pm, Dinner: Everyday 6pm-midnight www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii Eat Me Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cozy Silom restaurant is INTERNATIONAL consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite The Dining Room at possibly the best steak in town. The House on Sathorn Few restaurant settings in the city rival Trust us! this charming colonial-era mansion Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. where Turkish native Chef Fatih Tutak Tel: 02 238 0931 keeps things rooted in the Ottoman Open daily: 3pm-1am canon, experimenting with tastes, www.eatmerestaurant.com textures, and temperatures in a 10-course tasting menu. Elements W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. This Michelin-starred restaurant Tel: 02 344 4025 expertly fuses Japanese and French Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm culinary aesthetics, flavours, and www.thehouseonsathorn.com precision, in a retro-futuristic space
A Michelin Guide Bangkok Listed Hotel
Christmas 2018 is dedicated to “200 Years of Silent Night Holy Night” “Shine” New Year’s Eve X’Mas Brunch from THB 1,199++ X’Mas Eve Dinner from THB 1,999++ New Year’s Eve Dinner & Countdown from THB 3,999++
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listings | FOOD & DRINK that feels like a home study but has 34-36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. the theatricality of a playhouse. Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Tel: 02 012 1234 57 Wireless Rd. bangkok.park.hyatt.com Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 687 9000 www.okurabangkok.com Tables Grill Showcasing French cuisine and helmed by Michelin-experienced Chef Hans Zahner, Tables Grill sets the perfect experience of fresh ingredients and flavourful elegance. Tables Grill welcomes guests to try the à la carte menu and 5 or 7-course degustation menu. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Rajdamri Rd. The Penthouse Bar & Grill Tel: 02 254 6250 Open: Dinner, Mon-Sun 6pm-10pm; The Penthouse Bar & Sunday Brunch: 11am-3pm Grill With a design concept that conjures www.tablesgrill.com up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill Up & Above kitchen at this stunning restaurant This elegant 24th floor restaurant has space dishes up succulent steaks and fine dining down, but it also boasts a other meaty morsels. It’s also home brunch to rival all others—delivering a to a super cool looking whisky room. buffet of luxurious proportions.
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24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: noon-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com
Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant
Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant
Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two milieus. 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200, Opem daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com
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FOOD & DRINK | listings
JAPANESE
39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Klongtoey Nua Tel: 02 686 7000 Kisso Combining a modern mastery of Open daily: Till midnight time-honoured customs in a stylish www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ and convivial setting, this is one of the bangkok-heightz.php top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259, Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com
THAI
Classical Thai dance shows starts, every night at 7.30pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with close shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave. Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 5pm-midnight www.mandarinoriental.com
VEGETARIAN
Blue Elephant
Blue Elephant
A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Bangkok Heightz Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, Bangkok Heightz A rooftop sky bar with authentic Thai 6:30pm-10:30pm concept. Elevated-up high level of www.blueelephant.com Thai local street food on 39th floor. Signature Thai cocktails and Well- Sala Rim Naam known Thai tasting menu. Meanwhile, A stunning traditional pavilion located views of Bangkok’s downtown across the river from Oriental Mandarin cityscape can be enjoyed from the where you will dine and experience restaurant’s open air-deck. Thai culture with all your senses.
Veganerie Concept
Veganerie Concept
The modern-rustic interior is flooded with natural light, and the fare— from tantalising dairy-free bakery desserts to vegan appetizers and main courses—is pretty “natural” as well. 35/2 Soi Methiniwet (Sukhumvit Soi 24) Tel: 02 258 8489 Open: Fri-Wed, 10am-10pm www.facebook.com/ veganbakerybangkok
Trattoria Pizzeria Il Bolognese
LOCATION 139/3 SOUTH SATHORN SOI 7 BANGKOK 10120 THAILAND OPEN EVERYDAY 11:30AM - 14:30PM 17:30PM - 23:00PM CONTACT T: 02 286 8805 E: ilbolognesebkk@gmail.com trattoria.pizzeria.ilbolognese @ilbolognesebangkok
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at ICONSIAM
4th Floor
Sample gins from all over the world at Park Hyatt’s renowned Gin Garden
NIGHTLIFE | NIGHTLIFE
LA comedy live presents…
Shangela Laquifa Wadley, the star of Rupaul’s Drag Race, will be in Bangkok on December 13th as part of her brand new tour, “Shangela is shook”, presented by LA Comedy Live. Besides being on RPDR, Shangela has been featured on numerous films and TV shows, most recently, she starred alongside Bradley Cooper and Lady Gaga in the hit movie A Star Is Born. Tickets prices vary but start from B1,500 up to B3,000 for VIP. www.thaiticketmajor.com/concert/shangela-is-shook-live-in-bangkok-2018-th.html
a trio of fun-filled evenings at park hyatt bangkok Lifting spirits Tuesday, Wednesdays and Thursdays is the forte of Penthouse Bars on Level 35-37 on top of Park Hyatt Bangkok Hotel. “Gin Garden” (Tues) sees gins from all over the world in the spotlight under the expert attention of Gin Garden’s ingenious barmen working their alchemy in the alfresco glory of the Cocktail Bar Gin Garden. “Sky High Bubbles & Fizz” (Weds) is the perfect time to head over to the Cocktail Bar for an evening of free-flow bubbles & fizz from 8pm -10pm with live DJ spinning hip hop and R&B hits till late. Finally, “Gentleman’s Club” (Thur) is held at The Whisky Room, setting the scene for a throwback speakeasy evening featuring vintage drinks from the 1920s interwoven with live jazz and blues from 8pmmidnight. For more information, please email bkkph.fb-admins@hyatt.com or call 02 011 7480
the taste of music: “Italian festival” A unique Gala dinner on December 7th to celebrate the 150th Anniversary of the diplomatic relations between Italy and Thailand and the 150th Anniversary of the death of Rossini. Italian baritone Marcello Rosiello and tenor David Sotgiu, top Thai pianists Nat Yontararak and Pana Yontararak, together with Bromsgrove International School Choir and Bangkok Music Society (BMS), will be performing songs by Rossini and Neapolitan composers. The audience will taste on the table what is performed on stage. A recipe of great music, magnificent Italian cusine handcrafted by Executive Chef Dominique Bugnand from Mandarin Oriental - and Italian Flair created by Camillo Pellegatta and Alice Law. Ticket price: B4,500 including entry fee to the performance, full course dinner and free flow wine. www.facebook.com/events/210538059841796
so galactic odyssey A stellar constellation of festive events clustered on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year Day at SO SOFITEL BANGKOK. Start your countdown this holiday season and buckle up as SO Sofitel Bangkok blasts off into the new year with the “SO Galactic Odyssey” festive program 2018. A number of festive activities throughout December keeps the holiday cheers ringing to the galaxies and beyond. The SO Pool party of the year bids 2018 farewell with a splash with the help of Möet & Chandon, and a special festive Cheese@SO highlights the cosmic pairing of fine wine and splendid cheese. Famous DJs act as ground control to launch New Year’s Countdown revellers into the boisterous night at The Water Club, while up on the 29th and 30th floor rooftops, guests can shine like a supernova and ring in 2019 at HI-SO Bar. www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com bangkok101.com
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NIGHTLIFE | interview
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interview | NIGHTLIFE
An Interview with
SHANGELA When Shangela speaks, we listen. In conversation with Zazi Ruengchinda
How did you get into acting? I wanted to be an actor ever since I was a kid. Some of my favourite childhood memories involve going to the movies or watching daytime dramas on television with my Grandma. Even at the theatre, I loved seeing how the actors took on different characters and told stories in a way that made me escape my small town through imagination and art. I would imitate them and entertain family members. When I finally got the chance to do it on a bigger level, I went for it. How were you cast in A Star is Born and what can you tell us about the experience? Having a role in A Star is Born is a dream come true. It’s great to be a part of a film, but it’s even greater to be a part of a GOOD film... and this is a movie that is truly phenomenal. Working alongside screen geniuses like Bradley Cooper and Lady Gaga will always be one of my favourite moments in life. Not only do they slay in this film, but they were kind and so welcoming on set too. They made it easy for me to do my best work and bring a certain authenticity to an already amazing set of scenes. bangkok101.com
What can audiences expect from your comedy show “Shook”? The Shangela is Shook Show is a 75-minute high energy performance and comedy show that will take the audience on the ride I lived on during RuPaul’s Drag Race All Stars 3. There’s comedy, dance, live singing, and even some fun surprises too! If you’ve never been shaken up before, prepare to be fully SHOOK! How can we all be as fabulous as you? Oh honey, that’s easy. Just believe you are fabulous, and that’s the secret right there. I love myself and I love sharing who I am. I think the more we can live out our authentic lives, the happier—and more fabulous—we will all be. Once we accept ourselves, we can then really go out into the world and spread love and acceptance to everyone else. Halleloo! www.shangela.com Shangela is Shook takes place on 13th December at Dr. Thaworn Phornprapha Auditorium. www.thaiticketmajor.com DECEMBER 2018 | 109
NIGHTLIFE | listings
BAR Bamboo Chic Bar
choose from, as well as some exciting options for the non-wine-inclined, while refined, rustic European cuisine is served up tapas-style for social dining. 2F, Gaysorn Plaza, 999 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 1133 Open daily: 11am-midnight www.riedelwinebarbkk.com
Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd. Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm Scarlett Wine Bar & Tel: 02 232 8888 Restaurant www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list, and a host of The Bar Featuring a black and gold colour creative cocktails—many of which theme, and both indoor and outdoor make use of in-house infused spirits. seating, this 10th floor lounge is warm, 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G sophisticated, quiet, and inviting—the Open daily: 6pm-late archetype of a bar you would belly up Tel: 096 860 7990 to after a long day at work or a long www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. Wine Connection The Grill Open daily: 7am-midnight There are currently 18 Wine Tel: 02 012 1234 Connection outlets in Bangkok, www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com however this branch also focusses on grilled meats—especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection The Diplomat Bar Drop by any night and you’re likely of reasonably priced wines (available to find suited and booted business mainly by the bottle, but with some types chatting over martinis. Dark “by the glass” options as well). wood touches, soft yellow lighting, 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld and a den-like feel partly account for Open daily: 11am-midnight the bar’s popularity, and from 8pm Tel: 02 613 1037 Monday to Thursday (and 8.30pm www.wineconnection.co.th Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel ROOFTOP SKY BAR 87 Wireless Rd. Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am,Fri-Sat, 7am-2am Aire Bar Tel: 02 690 9244 Offering a variety of wines, beers, and facebook.com/diplomatbarconradbangkok artisanal cocktails, with delicious snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best views of the city (day and night). A laid-back bar perfect for unwinding… cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Open: Mon-Thu, 5pm-midnight; Fri-Sat, 5pm-1am; Sun, 3pm-11pm Tel: 02-055-1234 www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok
chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok
CRU Champagne Bar
This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it doesn’t get any better than this. 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.champagnecru.com
ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar
ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar
Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya, discover ThreeSixty-the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from a range of delicious, creative cocktails, made by our champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Open daily: 5pm-1am Tel: 02 442 2000 www3.hilton.com
Moon Bar & Vertigo
The top floors of the Banyan Tree Hotel offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a Char Riedel Wine Bar & Cellar Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful romantic rendezvous. A world-class wine bar that isn’t just all view of Bangkok’s lively downtown 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok about wine. There’s dozens of vinos to core. The breezes are gentle, the 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. 110 | DECEMBER 2018
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NIGHTLIFE | listings Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.banyantree.com
Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar
Zest Bar and Terrace
Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new drink menu, featuring expertly crafted cocktails, and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit, Bangkok 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 7am-1am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com
Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm-7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott CLUB Sukhumvit, 2, Sukhumvit Soi 57 Open daily: 5pm-2am 8 on Eleven Tel: 02 797 0000 A gastro bar with a modern www.facebook.com/octavemarriott industrial twist and a 2nd floor dance area, this nightlife venue offers a wide selection of cocktails and classic European dishes with a modern twist. 14, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 093 421 1991 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/8oneleven Red Sky Bar
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Narz
Also known as Narcissus, this multi-level club has been keeping Bangkok’s dance crowd moving for over two decades with their wild party atmosphere. Perfect for groups who want to make it their playground for the night. 112, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Tel: 02 258 4805 Open daily: 9pm-3am www.narzclubbangkok.net
Beam
An honest club with a communal vibe, plus great music and one of the best One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed sound systems. You can be yourself rooftop bars—perched dramatically here—dance like you mean it, soak up above the heart of the city—offers the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard light bites and signature cocktails. Sukhumvit Soi 55 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Tel: 02 392 7750 Convention Centre at CentralWorld Open: Wed-Sat, 8pm-2am 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. www.beamclub.com Tel: 02 100 6255 Open Daily: 4pm-1am (Happy Hours: 4pm-6pm) Levels www.centarahotelsresorts.com One of the most reliably busy nightclubs in Bangkok that welcomes a mix of resident expats, stylish Thai Rooftop Terrace at party animals, and wide-eyed holidayPenthouse Bar + Grill This dramatic skybar is the perfect makers who can’t get enough. spot to drink in Bangkok’s nighttime 6F, 35, Sukhumvit Soi 11 skyline in an outdoor garden lounge Tel: 082 308 3246 setting. Order anything from a bucket Open daily: 9pm-2am of drinks, to curated cocktails and www.facebook.com/levelsclub expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok Mixx Discotheque 88 Wireless Rd. Classier than most of Bangkok’s Open daily: 5:30pm-midnight afterhour dance clubs, the space Tel: 02 012 1234 is a two-room affair—one plays bangkok.park.hyatt.com R&B and Hip Hop, the other does
Red Sky Bar
Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 10pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok
Sing Sing Theater
Sing Sing Theater
Not entirely a club, nor exactly a bar in the truest sense, this eclectic performance venue transcends the limitations of conventional nightlife vocabulary. Sukhumvit Soi 45 Tel: 097 285 6888 Open: Tue-Sun, 8pm-2am www.facebook.com/singsingtheater
PUBS The Australian
A wide and bright Australian import, complete with beer schooners as well as bottles from Coopers and VB, live rugby matches on TV, and rock bands on stage. 37, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 02 651 0800 Open daily: 9am-late www.theaustralianbkk.com bangkok101.com
NIGHTLIFE | listings
Beer Republic
The familiar interior welcomes with TV screens running sports highlights and comfy seating all round. The beer selection, meanwhile, reveals a litany of Belgian, German, Danish, and British brews—a selection of over 70 beers in fact, catering to connoisseurs and movies alike. GF, Holiday Inn Bangkok 971 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0080 Open daily: 11:30am-1am www.beerrepublicbangkok.com
Soi 33). In its current location the building itself is new, but once you enter the doors you feel as though you are in an old style ‘local’. 1178 Pattanakarn Rd. Tel: 02 022 8025 Open daily: Mon-Sat, 11am-midnight, Sun, 9am-midnight www.the-londoner.com
The Drunken Leprechaun This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4, Sukhumvit 15 Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com
Mulligan’s Irish Bar
Mulligan’s Irish Bar
A Khao San institution that draws hordes of young locals and a more refined foreign crowd than the norm in the neighbourhood, thanks to great live music and day-long happy hour deals. 265 Khao San Rd. Tel: 02 629 4477 Open daily: 24 hours www.mulligansthailand.com
night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu, 11am-1am, Fri-Sat, 11am-2am www.mandarinoriental.com
Black Cabin
Half the space at Wild & Co. restaurant is given over to this brick-walled pub which eschews the mainstream Billboard 100, focusing instead on live bands. Before and after the bands play, resident DJ’s spin vinyl, relying on personal collections rather than playlists. Wild & Co, 33/1 Soi Farm Wattana Tel: 061 515 6989 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/blackcabinbar
Brown Sugar
LIVE MUSIC Apoteka The Huntsman
The Huntsman
English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsmanpub
The Londoner
It’s the only purpose-built British pub in Bangkok, and it’s also the oldest microbrewery in the city (it first opened in 1997, and was originally located on Sukhumvit 114 | DECEM BER 2018
Built to emulate a 19th-century apothecary, this lively spot has a casual old-school feel, indoor and outdoor seating, an awesome line-up of live music almost every day of the week, tasty bar snacks, and a drink selection including beer and custom craft cocktails. No dress code, no cover charge, and no pretention! 33/28, Sukhumvit Soi 11 Tel: 090 626 7655 Open daily: Mon-Thu, 5pm-1am, Fri, 5pm-2am, Sat-Sun, 3pm-midnight www.apotekabkk.com
Bamboo Bar
A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each
Brown Sugar
Bangkok’s oldest, coziest jazz venue. A restaurant and coffee house by day that morphs into a world-class jazz haunt where renditions of bebop and ragtime draw crowds by night. 469 Phra Sumen Rd. Tel: 089 499 1378 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.brownsugarbangkok.com
Checkinn99
A lively bar and cabaret club in downtown Bangkok (next to the Lotus Hotel) and one of the city’s most celebrated live music venues. Nightly live music includes jam sessions, Sunday jazz, and a local Thai and international menu. Happy Hour and easy-listening sets run between 6pm-8:30pm. 1/1 Sukhumvit 33, Sukhumvit Rd Tel: 081 735 7617 bangkok101.com
listing | NIGHTLIFE
Open: daily, 11am-2am www.checkinn99.com
out stiff drinks and killer blues, ska, and jazz every single night of the week. 3/8 Victory Monument Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 246 5472 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.saxophonepub.com
shophouse turned small bar on the edge of Chinatown’s art district. 945 Charoenkrung Rd. Tel: 083 092 2266 Open daily: 6pm-1am www.facebook.com/livesoulbarbangkok
SpeakerBox Maggie Choo's
Maggie Choo’s
The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. GF, Hotel Novotel Fenix, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Tue-Sun, 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/maggiechoos
The city’s latest bar to enjoy local and rotating imported craft beers as well as some cool cocktails and snacks while kicking back and checking out some of Bangkok’s best local indie bands and artists at this compact, casual semi-open air venue. Ratchada Train Market (Esplanade Ratchada) Tel: 084 662 6642 Open: Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-2am www.facebook.com/speakerboxbkk
The Zuk Bar
The Zuk Bar
An ideal place for aperitifs or after dinner drinks, which can be savoured alongside a selection of tapas menu items. Chill out while admiring the fabulous garden view. The Sukhothai Bangkok, SoulBar Metalwork, modern art, and live 13/3 South Sathorn Rd. Motown, funk, blues, and soul form Tel: 02 344 8888, Open daily: 5pm-1am Saxophone A must-visit live music joint, dishing the backbone of this stark, yet cool, www.sukhothai.com bangkok101.com
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SIGNING OFF | did you know?
D
espite Thailand being an overwhelmingly Buddhist country, there are still plenty of churches that you can visit over Christmas if your faith is important to you. Whilst there are some in Thai language, there are plenty of English-speaking Christian churches in and around Bangkok catering to all denominations, from Catholic to Orthodox.
The most famous catholic church in Bangkok is the Holy Redeemer Church, near BTS Phloen Chit, Lumpini Garden. The church opened in November 1949 as a wooden house, built next to the house where the monks of the residence lived. It became known as the “Temple of the Mother of the Garage” and was was finally completed in 1954 when it opened fully to the public.
For a full schedule of masses, see: www.holyredeemerbangkok.net Tel: 02 651 5251 Email: redeemerbangkok@gmail.com 116 | DECEM BER 2018
Today, the church have several Christmas masses every year, usually three English services a day both on Christmas Eve (24th) and Christmas Day (25th). If you’re not fussed about heading to church, don’t forget that Thailand is home to a number of awe-inspiringly beautiful temples, such as Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Arun and Wat Pho.
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