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Adventures in Food

TM

A community of like-minded nomads, united in the pursuit of food; from chefs and restaurants to street food, culinary events and international forums. Come and discover a new culinary universe with us. See the website for future events.

Contact us: info@gastronauts.asia

www.gastronauts.asia


publisher’s letter

A

s the year winds down, things are finally winding up and filling many calendar slots with highly anticipated events. The World Gourmet Festival turns 20 this year, and from 2-8 September, a lineup of renowned chefs will dazzle all foodies with an amalgam of menus from Michelin-starred kitchens from all over the world. Also upcoming is the charity dining occasion for a good cause, Eat Drink Pink, at the end of September. The International Festival of Dance & Music continues this year from 11 September to 23 October (pg. 48). We also have a special report from beautiful Chiang Rai. Designed by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) and partners, an exclusive journey exploring the local communities’ lifestyles, activities and especially art and culture in the ‘Local Experience 360 Degrees: Art of Life’ project (pg.36). We caught up with a good few people in this issue, including Chef Som about her soon-to-reopen Karmakamet Conveyance (pg. 16) and Chef DK of Haoma Bangkok about his new food concept (pg. 62). Plenty more of intriguing reads include spicy stuff from our very own contributors (pg. 58, 60) plus an array of dining delights the Big Mango has to offer. Get in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and beyond, visit our archive Enjoy. and more online at www. bangkok101.com. We always strive to bring the best and most valuable content to you, and if you feel Mason Florence there are things we’re not Publisher covering but should, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.

WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

BANGKOK 101 PARTNERS

bangkok101.com

SEP/OCT 2019 | 5


24 Dr Tom Vitayakul

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avantgarde about their visions, inspirations and creations. FB/IG: @tom.vitayakul

26

Joe Cummings

48

Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. FB/IG: @joecummings

Rosalind Yunibandhu

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster

city pulse 10 18 20 22 24

Metro Beat What’s going on in the months of September and October in Bangkok Best of BKK A new and haunting walking tour My BKK Interview with Alexander Kellermann Best of BKK Into the Hood—Suan Phlu Best of BKK Spooky jogging routes in Bangkok

snapshots 26 30 32

Now New Next Rush Pleansuk and Philippe Moisan Joe’s Bangkok Mono returns Very Thai Ghost Stories

travel 34 36 42 44

Low Season Rendezvous—Hua Hin The Art of Life: Local Experience 360 Degrees Off-The-Beaten-Path local experience tourism by TAT Alternative healing Slowing Down Faster Than the Speed of Light Special Report Tham Luang Nang Non Cave Rescue: Commemoration

art & culture Samantha Proyrungtong

Australian-borne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a wellknown voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: @bangkokfoodiesthailand IG: @bangkokfoodies

48 50 52

Sukhumvit Gallery A rare and permanent exhibition at Hyatt Regency Bangkok IFDM 2019 International Festival of Dance and Music Bangkok returns Photo Feature A Land Lost: The Mlabri of Northern Thailand

Bangkok 101 is available at:


68

69

85

66 food & drink

58 Aroy Upcoming food events 60 Kitchen Backstories Khao Pook Nga 61 Eat Like Nym Play Farm 62 Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Flash in the Pan 64 Interview Exclusive interview with Chef DK of Haoma Bangkok 65 Food Story Superfood 101: Açaí 66 Restaurant Reviews Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant, Uno Mas, Tenshino, Blue Elephant, Bawarchi 72 Breaking Bread with Chef Miro Mattalia of Appia 74 Food & Drink Listings

night life

82 Nightlife Updates 84 Reviews

Char Restaurant & Rooftop Bar, Zest Bar & Terrace 86 Nightlife Listings

signing off

100 Signing off—Did you know?

How much do you know about cholesterol?

publisher editor-in-chief associate publisher managing editor editor-at-large associate editor art director graphic designer strategists

Mason Florence Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond Tipparnee Prajakwit Morgan Thanarojpradit Joe Cummings Sithasa Kanchanavijaya Narong Srisaiya Thanakrit Skulchartchai Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

contributing writers

Samantha Proyrungtong Korakot Punlopruksa Tom Vitayakul Chris Watson Rosalind Yunibandhu

general manager senior sales manager distribution

Vittoria Dell’Anna Ornuma Promsrikaew Pichet Ruengjit

contents Table of

sep/oct 2019

On the cover

Rediscover your centre and ground your energy at Banyan Tree Spa PUBLISHED BY Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhivas Rajanagarinda Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd, Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 | Fax: 02 286 7829 | bangkok101@talisman.asia ©Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.


CITY PULSE | metro beat

sep/oct

food

sep 2-8

This year, the annual World Gourmet Festival has arrived at its 20th edition. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel invites international chefs from Michelin-starred restaurants, as well as an award-winning pastry master, to join the celebration. Without a doubt, the not-to-be-missed gastronomic highlight of the year and a spectacular affair for food connoisseurs will allow participants to indulge in dinner, cocktails, afternoon tea, Sunday Brunch or Masterclasses with award-winning chefs: Chef Wolfgang Becker from Germany, Chef Kai Ho from Taiwan, Chef Alan Geaam from France, Chef Chiho Kanzaki and Chef Marcelo di Giacomo, Chef Hervé Deville from United Kingdom, Chef Andrea Spagoni from Hong Kong, Chef Rui Silvestre from Portugal, Chef Yoji Tokuyoshi from Italy, Chef Hajime and Chef So Otowa from Japan, Chef Hideki II from Japan, Chef Angel Zapata Martin from United Kingdom, Chef Richie Lin from Taiwan, Chef Pongtawat “Ian Kittichai” Chalermkittichai from Thailand, and last but not least, Chef Roger van Damme from Belgium. Seatings are limited. For reservations or further information, call 02 126 8866 ext. 1707, email: wgf.asia@anantara.com or visit www.worldgourmetfestival.asia

fashion & beauty

sep 10-14

The bi-annual Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair (BGJF) is one of the world’s most renowned and longestcelebrated gems and jewelry trade fairs which acts as a trading platform for businesses to source and network with the key players in the industry. Starting from 10am to 6pm, over 1,000 exhibitors and about 50,000 visitors are expected to be present. 10times.com/bangkok-gems-jewelry-fair 10 | SEP/OCT 2019

sep 19-21

Beyond Beauty ASEAN is the gateway to Southeast Asia’s expanding beauty industry and cosmetics markets. It promises to build commercial connections between local and international organisations as well as provide industry professionals with an arena to exchange ideas and knowledge. From 10am to 5pm, both exhibitors and visitors can explore efforts and growth opportunities. 10times.com/beyond-beauty-asean bangkok101.com


CITY PULSE | metro beat

travel

party

sep 1-dec 31

sep 21

Fly to North America, Europe or selected destinations in Asia and earn up to 1,500 bonus Asia Miles with Cathay Pacific. From 1 September to 31 December 2019, apply for Asia Miles and book your flight with Cathay Pacific or Cathay Dragon online to North America, Europe, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, China, Korea or Japan, on top of regular miles, you can earn 800 Miles for Economy and Premium Economy and 1,500 Miles for Business and First Class. For more information, visit https://bit.ly/2YQxJhW

concert

An evening of well-dressed crowd, jazz and swing live music, dancing, and spectacular shows at classic ballroom from the 1930s, Shanghai Mansion in Chinatown. Led by New York’s legendary pianist Gordon Webster, Diga Diga Doo also stars burlesque artist, tap and swing dancers, and vintage makeover. Ticket price starts from B2,500. www.digadigadoobkk.com

sep 11

American rapper, singer, songwriter, and actor Wiz Khalifa is making a debut in Bangkok at CentralWorld’s GMM Live House with special guests and Thai rappers, Twopee Southside and Maiyarap x Ben Bizzy. His hits include See You Again ft. Charlie Puth, Young, Wild and Free, and Black and Yellow. Tickets are priced at B2,500. www.wizkhalifa.com

oct 24

Backstreet Boys concert will be held at IMPACT Muang Thong Thani Exhibition Hall 5-6 with tickets starting from B3,000. DNA World Tour Live in Bangkok was conceived after the release of their 10th studio album that topped the Billboard chart. www.thaiticketmajor.com/ concert/backstreet-boysdna-world-tour-2019.html Backstreet Boys 12 | SEP/OCT 2019

oct 26

Karma Klique returns with a new concept of underground electronic music warehouse party at ABOUT studio which features an expansive space of an outdoor courtyard and a range of food trucks and vendors. The lineup curates some of the best-regarded techno and house purveyors in the local and international underground scene. Ticket price starts from B900. www.ticketmelon.com/ karmaklique/karma-koncrete bangkok101.com


MICHELIN PLATE 2019

2-MICHELIN STAR CHEF FERNANDO P. ARELLANO FROM ZARANDA RESTAURANT MALLORCA

RETURNS TO UNO MAS FOR AN INTIMATE GALA DINNER DINING DECK

3rd & 4th OCTOBER 2019 DINNER THB 3,900 NET WITH WINE PAIRING / 19.00 hrs

4th OCTOBER 2019 LUNCH THB 1,900 NET / 12.00 hrs

BOOK EARLY TO AVOID DISAPPOINTMENT UNOMASBANGKOK

T: 02-100-6255 E: diningcgcw@chr.co.th

UNOMAS_BANGKOK

UNOMASBANGKOK.COM

999/99 Rama 1 Road, Pathumwan Bangkok, Thailand


E AT DR I N K PI N K 2 019

Tastefully and Charitably at The Peninsula Bangkok Monday, 30 September 2019 From 7:00 pm to 10:00 pm B rought to you by more than 35 of Bangkok’s culinary masterminds, the fifth annual Eat Drink Pink fundraiser will enable you to not only explore unlimited gourmet creations but also support the Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer Foundation. Join us in giving a helping hand to underprivileged breast cancer patients while delighting your palate with various choices of flavours from Bangkok’s leading eateries hear tfully presented at the Sakuntala Ballroom of The Peninsula Bangkok for the breast cancer cause. THB 3,000 net per ticket per person To purchase your ticket, please contact the Food & Beverage Department at 0 2020 2888 ext. 6109 or e-mail diningpbk@peninsula.com or purchase your ticket online at peninsula.com/bangkok.


UNFORGETTABLE MOMENTS SHARED INTRODUCING FRONT ROOM’ S SHARING MENU

TAST E OF WA LD ORF For bookings, please call 0 2846 8888 or email : bkkwa.fb@waldorfastoria.com


Karmakamet Conveyance A unique experience of borderless culinary journey

W

e believe in universality–of aesthetics, races, cultures, places, languages—that transcends any rules or boundaries, and

connects us.” This is, in a few words, the answer from Chef Jutamas Theantae or Chef Som, Executive Chef and Co-Owner of Karmakamet Diner when asked about soon to reopen, Karmakamet Conveyance. She further stated that the new location will strengthen Karmakamet’s motto of universality through food, atmosphere and happiness. “We all value food differently and people’s perception of food changes constantly with time, Karmakamet Conveyance strives to introduce a borderless concept where food is presented truthfully in its universality form, as it should be. “Because tastes can be very subjective. It depends greatly on each person’s experience, upbringing and background. So the benchmarks that we use in deciding which dish or menu is right to serve for us is love and happiness,” she continued. “As long as the food is made with love from me and from my team and as long as it successfully brings happiness to those who taste them, that’s what we want to serve,” she smiled.

When asking whether the buzz of numerous guides and awards have affected her cooking in anyway, she said that food is an ever-changing thing. It consistently and constantly evolves and grows with time. The guides and awards may have a hand in stimulating the industry to up their games, but she believes that changes are inevitable with or without the awards. She added that one particular menu she is especially proud of is called ‘Seeds’—presented as three balls made of different ingredients which are cassava, sweet potato and cashew nuts. This may sound underwhelming, however, the flavours and textures of this menu offers a mysterious experience which can vastly differ from diner to diner.


Since her cooking focuses solely on the taste as a form of experiencing art, the parade of dishes should be appreciated exactly the way they are without preconceived notions. “I’d like for the diners to approach the menu with an open mind,” Chef Som talked about the new menu at Karmakamet Conveyance. The modern Asian-inspired cuisine with a concept of Truth in Taste allows diners to experience the surprising journey of what more to come as the meal unfolds. The meal opens with a note on the table that says, allow things to happen the way they are, which later makes sense after everything transpires. Course by course, it escalates by use of ingredients, combination of flavours and contrast of textures in which a lot of thought processes, techniques and determination are integrated. An option of rare vintage champagne pairing is carefully curated and available to bring out the characteristics of meticulously sourced quality foodstuffs. Highlights from the tasting menu include the clear Warmth broth that blends the full savoury flavours of tomatoes, herbs and seasonings, giving a warm colour similar to intense Chinese Oolong tea and

light consistency; the fleshy raw squid in Villages course that is slightly briny and wonderfully lustrous in texture; the Thai rice flour dumplings from Life course; and the fried garden-fresh zucchini blossom in Soul containing crispy aromatic coating and leaving no excessive oil. Dining at Karmakamet Conveyance is sure to offer a uniquely personal experience through its original dining options never before seen or tasted in Bangkok.

1, 1/1 Sukhumvit Soi 49 | T. 02 004 3997 | www.karmakametconveyance.com


CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bangkok Haunt Exploring the metropolis’s spooky corners by Morgan JT

I

n the past few years, Bangkok has become one of the most famous foodie towns in the region. We see many food-related walking tours of the city, taking both locals and visitors through the back streets in search of delicious dishes. But there’s a different kind of walking tour not many know to exist. Led by a long-time expat of Bangkok, Justin Dunne, we present ‘Bangkok Haunt.’ A clandestine organisation dedicated to exploring the streets of Bangkok for all their scary and creepy factors. It also brings about some of the best and high-end spooky attractions in Asia. Came into existence since the 18 | SEP/OCT 2019

19th century but only recently decided to come out from its dark mouldy corners, we wouldn’t recommend the tour to those who do not like a good scare. At the moment, the tour focuses around the Chinatown and the old town neighbourhood with hopes to expand into other areas of Bangkok in the future. It is neither for the weak of will or faint of heart. The Bangkok Haunt walking tour is a very comprehensive, inclusive, and draining nine hours with rest stops and food stops in between. They do ask that the explorers stay for the entire tour. While the guide tried to shorten the trip, it hasn’t been successful.

The venues included in the tour aren’t revealed; one has to participate to find out. All explorers must sign a waiver at the start, and it is not recommended for children under 13 years old. The tour will start at noon and run late into the evening. The journey is priced at B2,500 per person; each round is limited to only four persons. Bangkok Haunt donates 15% of the proceeding to developing housing in Chinatown.

Bangkok Haunt Tel: 081 341 3206 Email: bangkokhaunt@gmail.com www.facebook.com/BangkokHaunt bangkok101.com


Melon Terrine Three local Melons, Tom Kha Sorbet, Caviar

where innovative gastronomy and sustainable practices find a harmonious balance 231/3 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | T. 02 258 4744 | E. reservations@haoma.dk

www.haoma.dk


An Exclusive Interview with

Alexander Kellermann The New General Manager of Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park, Bangkok

When did you choose to focus your career in the hospitality industry? When I was 14, I was interning as a dishwasher and kitchen helper in a small restaurant. It wasn’t fancy, but I enjoyed working with people, and appreciated that every job required practice and experience to do it right. I have also learned that whatever you do, no matter how small and seemingly insignificant the task, you need to do it with care and passion. That was where it all began for me. The hospitality business is all about people, the associates and guests, and it is amazing how

much can be accomplished when you are nice and treat one another with respect. The possibilities in the industry are endless and you can try out different areas throughout your career. What is your perspective of Thailand’s hospitality industry and its future five years from now? Thailand’s hospitality industry continues to grow and is only going to become more competitive in the future. With all the new hotels, the focus on getting the basics right is everything. In the

end, what matters most is our caring associates, clean rooms, comfortable beds and healthy food. Of course, it helps to have great facilities to offer like an outdoor swimming pool, tennis court, golf chipping practice, badminton and squash facilities like we do at the Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park. Have you worked elsewhere in Thailand before? W Bangkok was my first experience working in Thailand. My wife and I were both working


in New York where we met, and as my wife is originally from Bangkok, and I had never been to Thailand before, I thought that it was going to be a great adventure. I truly fell in love with Thailand, its amazing people and culture. What is the most memorable, albeit funny or quirky moments in Thailand for you? This must be about the food. I learned early on that the definition of the level of spiciness is very different, and that when my Thai colleagues would tell me that the food is only a little bit spicy or not at all spicy, that I probably still cannot eat it without turning red. What does your average day at work look like? I have a very strict schedule. I like to manage my time carefully so that I can spend as much time as possible with our guests and associates and focus my energy on what matters most. I always tend to arrive early and enjoy walking the public areas of the hotel first to see that everything is in order, and then meet our guests at breakfast next. I usually go over my schedule the day prior to make sure that I can make the most out of my day. The leadership team then meets every morning, and once that’s done, I always like to walk the floors and check some of our rooms. Every day is different, but I always try to meet as many of our guests upon arrival and be around the lobby during peak periods. As the new General Manager of Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park, what is your vision for the venue five years from now? The hotel is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, and I am impressed to see how well the team kept the condition and maintenance of this wonderful product.

The hotel offers great facilities and spacious apartments fully equipped to be a home away from home for anyone looking to enjoy Bangkok whether it is for an extended period of time or just a couple of days. In the future, I see this property continue to be a destination where our guests can live, not just stay and bask in our personalised and caring service while continuing to provide first class facilities. What has been implemented in terms of changes at Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park since you joined? I only joined three weeks ago, so my priority is to get to know the associates who have been here for many years. I believe it’s really important at first to have an appreciation for all that has been accomplished in the past, before coming in and try to change things only for the sake of changing— that’s never a prudent thing to do. The property is currently ranked number 10 out of all hotels in Bangkok on TripAdvisor, so the first thing I did was thanking our associates for all their passion and care.

Have the hotel restaurants/ kitchens taken any initiative in promoting the ongoing sustainability and health/ wellness movements? Sustainability and health/wellness is part of every decision we make. Moving away from single use plastic towards sustainable options is not only in trend, but the right thing to do. Our breakfast spread offers a great variety of healthy options, and we’re offering many dishes focused on delivering a more health-centreed diet. Our hotel has great recreation facilities and I think that these wellness options are really unique for hotels in Bangkok. What can the public and travellers (or diners) expect from Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park? We will continue to delight our guests while getting the basics of a luxury hotel experience right at every turn. We’ll focus on continuing to surprise our guests with inspiring promotions and we already have a lot lined up over the upcoming months, so stay tuned.


CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Into the Hood: Suan Phlu

From star-studded to street food, here is an update of venues in Suan Phlu to suit everyone’s palates

4 1

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bustling, somewhat bohemian Bangkok suburb, Suan Phlu, is sandwiched between leafy and genteel Yenakat and the commercial district of Sathorn. The main artery, Suan Phlu Rd, leading to its pumping heart of Soi 8 and the numerous barely navigable capillaries conceal a multitude of food offerings at both ends of the dining spectrum.

A burgeoning reputation as a rather edgy and ‘real’ foodie destination has seen it move rapidly up the ladder. Whilst we all know its established players, there are also many must-visits from the heady heights of potential Michelin stardom to the humble mom and pop stalls Beginning at the Sathorn Road end, on a corner of Soi Phra Phinit, lies Plu (1), a classic Thai modern bistro from the Water Library staple of clever concepts. Chris is a former Michelin Guide Inspector, Returning to the main road following an international career in and prior to passing the Michelinhospitality spanning 30 starred Saawaan (3) where years in both the Middle Chefs Aom and Paper serve up East and Asia, has now exquisitely reinvented Thai dishes, settled in Thailand and at the end of Soi 2, an exclusive contributes to ‘Into for Bangkok 101, I am delighted the Hood’ column in to reveal Restaurant Keller (2) by Bangkok 101. Chef Mirco Keller, former chef of IG: xmichelinman the Water Library. The venue is 22 | SEP/OCT 2019

7 scheduled to open in early 2020. Surely one to watch! Continuing along the tree lined road, one sees a sandwich board boldly scribed, “Best bread in Bangkok!”. Holey Bakery (4), presided over by Porag and an essential pit stop for lovers of French butter croissants, English sausage rolls and memorable sour dough. A few steps further is a relative newcomer, Olta (5), the latest venture from Jamie Wakeford, also Chef/Patron of Bampot in Phuket, offering up modern British dishes in a hip setting. Heading to Soi 8, one passes two Arno’s outposts (6), favoured amongst dedicated carnivores and on the corner of Soi 1, the landmark thirties cocktail lounge plus, Smalls (7), where you will invariably find the proprietor, bangkok101.com


best of bkk | CITY PULSE

of Uncle John’s times two (19) and authentic Coconut Ice Cream (20) to complete your dinner experience.

Sathon Tai Rd

Phra Phinit Rd

Suan Phlu Soi 2 3

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6

5

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Suan Phlu Soi 1

9 10 12

Naradhiwas Soi 11 11

Suan Phlu Rd

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Suan Phlu Soi 6 19 20 19

Suan Phlu Soi 8

Naradhiwas Soi 15 27

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Returning to the main road, opposite the police station is Yor Karn Yum (21), turn up a small unnamed soi to enjoy early morning, kanom tuay (22) prepared with love. On the other corner is Jong Lert (23) where crispy duck is the number one seller and a bit further, Suan Phlu Food Court where grilled seafood (24) is a winner!

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Naradhiwas Soi 17

the legendary David Jacobson in residence. The popular Junker (8) is close by as is the incredibly stocked El Mercado grocery (9). Next door to this deli is Café Neighbor (10), first choice with chefs in the area. Opposite Soi 6 lies an alleyway where one will discover Coffee Klick (11), and within 50 m you will be rewarded with Som Tum Nui Suan (12), a charming garden house serving up the delights of Isaan. Arriving at Soi 8, one sees stalls fronting simple eating houses where one can pic-n-mix from truly crispy and unctuous Hoi Tod with oysters or mussels and Pad bangkok101.com

27

Ngam Duphli Rd

At the end of the road, on the corner is the Khao Soi Café (25) followed by the recently opened Café and Bean to Bar specialist Kad Kokoa (26) with memorable coffee, chocolate and patisseries. Another outlier, tucked away in a nearby soi, is the seafood focused Le Cabanon (27) where Chef Martine Pailloux will take you on a journey across France with her cuisine. Whilst my exploration is, for the time being, at an end, I do encourage you to Further in is Sweet Pony (17), visit and experience what this next door to Marc Legault’s French neighbourhood has to offer for brasserie, Lou Lou (18). The road both gourmet and gourmand; also houses the old school stalwart definitely worth a detour! Thai (13), Mom and Pop Satay (14), Crab Fried Rice (15) and Hainanese Chicken Rice (16).

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SEP/OCT 2019 | 23


CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Spooky Jog

Self-guided jogging tour in some of Bangkok’s quintessential neighbourhoods by Fha Kanch

Giant Swing 350 m

Samran Rat Rd.

500 m

Maha Chai Rd. Rommaninat Park

after Bangkok Prison was relocated away from the city. There was once a museum inside the park, Bangkok Corrections Museum which vividly displayed different methods to correct the behaviours and execute prisoners in contrast to the current practices that are more humane and less tormenting. The park is also located near Saket Temple, known for its dark history of accumulating corpses infected by the plague to be cremated and Suthat Temple associating with the urban legend of ‘Preta’ supernatural being sightings after the incident.

of Saket Temple and Preta of Suthat Temple as occurrences that people witnessed, with evidence of mural art inside the chapel.

T

hese three locations in Bangkok, embedded in history and horror, are worth surveying on foot to get into the spirit this Halloween while burning some calories. We bring you spooky backgrounds linked to the landmarks in each vicinity, so get ready to run with the ghouls.

Giant Swing

Samran Rat Intersection

Rommaninat Park A public park, whose name means a ‘park of woman who was regent’, was built on the grounds of old Klong Prem Prison or later known as Bangkok Remand Prison. In 1992, the location was transformed to commemorate the Queen Sirikit’s 60th birthday 24 | SEP/OCT 2019

Other than trading, the intersection has a reputation for the so-called ‘spirit door’. Cadavers from Cholera pandemic were carried through the eastern city wall from Rattanakosin Island to perform a proper cremation at Saket Temple (where the famous Golden Mount is). In the past, only the bodies of royal family members would be cremated within the city. Near Samrat Rat also situated an enormous old burial ground yet death row inmates from Bangkok Remand Prison were beheaded and left for the condors to devour. This construes the phrase, condors

In front of Suthat Temple stationed the great red swing poles that were moved from Bamrung Mueang Road during the reign of King Rama V and had been restored multiple times. The original purpose was to be utilised in a sacred Hindu ritual, Triyampawai Ceremony in which Brahmins stand on a giant piece of wood and swing back and forth to revere and welcome the Hindu God Shiva and bless Thailand at the end of each year. Although the royal ceremony had been abbreviated after King Rama VII era and continued to practice indoors, its sacredness and the chanting of Brahmins remain. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rommaninat_Park en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samran_Rat en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Giant_Swing bangkok101.com


20th World Gourmet Festival 2 - 8 September 2019 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel

Sixteen Chefs. Eleven Michelin-starred Restaurants. Nine Countries. Seven Days. One Hotel. Please book early to avoid disappointment. For more information and reservations, please call +66 (0) 2126 8866 Ext. 1707 or email wgf.asia@anantara.com

WorldGourmetFestival.asia #WorldGourmetFestivalBangkok


SNAPSHOTS | now new next

Rush Pleansuk and Philippe Moisan An East-meets-West couple converges their artistic visions and talents with traditional artistry and contemporary aesthetics

N

ow the two worlds of east and west meet and mingle like there’s no boundaries. Rush Pleansuk and Philippe Moisan combine Thai and French artistic sensibilities in their romantic and professional partnership. While Philippe mainly use his keen eyes in photography, Rush wears many hats at Sumphat gallery as a furniture, product and interior designer, a craft and design consultant as well as an architect, columnist and artist. They interconnect design philosophy, functionality and

26 | SEP/OCT 2019

artistic values into a profound interpretation. Before becoming an awardwinning designer, Rush earned his Bachelor degree in architecture at Faculty of Architecture, Kasetsart University, Bangkok. He furthered his studies in “Timber design and construction” at School of Architecture and Landscape, Bordeaux, France. Rush explains, “I think that studying architecture in Thailand concerns more about science than art. I wanted to learn about the source of inspiration and design so I chose France

because as a source of creativity, it’s more liberal. I studied woodwork, such as architecture, interior, and crafts with wood.” Rush continues, “I was a design consultant for a furniture brand Plato. I questioned why the products that I designed devalued quickly. We use teak which is of high quality but after five years, the furniture devalues. We have to find a story and a process that are rare. I then worked at Serax Maison d’être in Belgium and Harto Design in France. Later I started to receive these awards bangkok101.com


now new next | SNAPSHOTS

and asked by the government to work for community projects. I have more authority in my own companies but gain more compassion and flexibility in these projects. I have to learn and understand the community’s history and methods which are the key point of values in crafts. What makes a good piece of antique? It’s a combination of good materials, methods and stories. I have to prove myself in a big role at Sumphat from the brand’s point of view, history, and lifestyle with Philippe and the team. I initiate and influence but still need the team’s continuation. The quality of relationship within the team is also important.” Rush muses, “I get inspirations from two different points—luxury art product design and community projects. For art products, they come from telling stories from the past through culture, history and origin. Philippe has travelled a lot and profits from that. Museums, stories, history, and process of thinking and making are all synthesized into the products. “Community projects require problem solving on how to sustain the society and make it better. Many factors are involved in thinking. The passing of King Rama IX and the words from HM’s speeches inspire me to work for the locals. I study HM’s work and am proud of my country. Often Thai students who study overseas think that foreign countries are better. However, I want these communities not only to survive but also to develop. On one bangkok101.com

project, I decided to work with people with multiple disabilities. They are very talented. They weave lipao fern basketry which is very intricate and delicate. I can’t even make them. In another project on forest protection in Tak province, we use wild honey gatherers to counter the conflicts. They help buffer the deforestation that keeps invading by the villagers into the mountains. We have to teach them that trees have more values than just being fuel or not turning forests into corn fields. I have to solve these problems to their cores and hold the responsibility to ensure that it’s sustainable in long term, as in the King Rama IX’s speeches.” In the 1960s during the height of hippies and sexual revolution, Philippe Moisan was born in Montmartre, Paris. Living among the ambience of artists, his graphic artist parents are a mélange of bourgeois-bohemian. His maternal

grandfather, Roland Moisan, was a well-known artist and political cartoonist for Canard enchaîné, a satirical French newspaper. He was exposed to the world of art via his family friends who are painters, photographers, poets, writers, and actors. After the life of bobo's joie-de-vivre, he was schooled in Versailles with stricter social code and complexity. There he discovered dramatic arts at Théâtre Montansier by the château. Impressed by the Indiana Jones’ character, the adventurous archaeologist, Philippe studied at École du Louvre with a dream to become a museum curator. There he learned classic French art, Far-eastern art, and Egyptology. During the Cold War, his duty in the French army brought him to Berlin, Germany, where the best of music and opera occasionally helped warm his routine existence. SEP/OCT 2019 | 27


SNAPSHOTS | now new next

designs emerge from cultures, communication, connection, vibrancy and movement. As a single piece, it may lose the sense. Within a series, the pieces build stories, spirit, soul, sense After returning to Paris, After decades of beauty, and meaning about their origin.” Philippe’s life of pleasure resumed ease and fun, Philippe felt that Philippe adds, “At first when I amidst the party scenes at something is missing. He began to thought of working together, nightclubs like Le Palace and Les look at the world without models. I wanted to brake and stop. I Bains-Douches, where he socialized He states, “I finally realized that was unsure and the images of with the fashion crowd. Among I should just take photos of the quarrels at home hindered me these, he met Spela Lenarcic, streets or towns. I left Brazil from repeating the history. Now one of Karl Lagerfeld’s models and had my works exhibited at each time I see his works in all who became a fashion editor for Paris Photo and during Mois the process, they remind me Numéro magazine. He travelled de la Photo. Then I had enough of the trees, the forests, and with her to exotic locations such of big cities, like New York, Los photos mixing and connecting as the Antilles. Although his Angeles, and Miami. I wanted to together.” Rush complements, father was surrounded by great relax in Bangkok. I hadn’t been to “Now I discover our common photographers like Henri CartierThailand before and my mental point of Sumphat that we are Bresson and Helmut Newton, image of it is that it’s quiet. My like archaeologists searching for Philippe discovered photography crazy idea is based upon the rare things or hidden jewels and in his 30s during these trips. His Silk Road and looking at people presenting them to the world, like black-and-white photos of Spela meditating, doing Tai Chi or I found Philippe who’s a treasure. against the black volcanic beach Qigong on the islands. However, He has a deep background and impressed the modelling agent. Asia is changing and rising quickly rich experience. That’s hard to He then learned commercial and Bangkok is one of the craziest find.” photography and started shooting places!” Besides being a design model portfolios. Later he worked As fate would have it, Rush director of Sumphat, Rush is also for several magazines, travelled and Philippe met 10 years ago a sculpture artist under the alias widely in Europe, Asia, and the and have collaborated for four of Gaspard. His first sculpture US, and eventually spent 12 years years. They have combined their exhibition ‘Genii-Loci’ was shown working in fashion and advertising talents in architecture, design in 2014. Rush reflects, “These photography in Brazil. and photography. Rush says, “Our art pieces are expressions of my 28 | SEP/OCT 2019

bangkok101.com


now new next | SNAPSHOTS

feelings. It’s my personal vision of what we see in the ruins of the city of Bangkok. The design pieces that I’m most proud of is the brass collection that’s related to gilded lacquer works. First, the ‘Lublae’ partition screen are panels of rain and seasons in ‘lai rod nahm’ gold lacquer. They represent human life through seasons—summer, monsoon and dry season, accented with gold leaves and glitter like Japanese urushi lacquerware. I want to continue the craftsmanship such as brasswork.” Philippe describes, “The brasswork series is inspired by ‘dton koi’ or Siamese rough bush and antiques. The ‘tree tables’ designed for displaying merchandise in Jim Thompson shop strongly impress me. With good directions, this design is special. These iconic brass tables are the germination or the beginning of creations. They are strong yet thin and poetic.” Rush adds, “Dton koi leads the design of this whole series. These ‘mai dud’ bonsai or Thai-style topiary can be seen in Wat Klongtoey Nai. Training each branch may take up to 25 years. Thais’ design bangkok101.com

characteristics are not sloppy but well-ordered and calculated. These trees arrived in Ayutthaya period and palace courtiers like sipping tea and critiquing bonsais. History helps shape furniture. The past will tell you the form and what you should follow.” Rush’s Midas touch has been recognised by several prominent design awards such as the first prize from La Plateforme Génome Transcriptome in France, G-Mark Design Award in Japan, the DEmark Award in Thailand, Prime Minister’s Export Award, Best Design of the Year in 2018, and Designer of the Year for Product Design in 2019. Currently, both have a sculpture and photography installation ‘Zephyr’ exhibited at One Bangkok Project. Rush concludes, “In future I want to start an art and design movement and gallery to have

functional, luxury, and valuable pieces that come from good intention and attention. I prefer quality to quantity.” As multidisciplinary artists, this crosscultural couple adapts, blends, modifies, and transforms their global thinking into universal things.

NOW NEW NEXT

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avant-garde about their visions, inspirations and creations. SEP/OCT 2019 | 29


SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Mono Returns

Monumental Japanese post-rock band Mono returns to Bangkok with a new album and a new drummer

M

ono, who manages to sound 10 times bigger than their four-piece membership might suggest, will make their fourth concert appearance in Bangkok on the 24th of this month. In the world of wall-of-sound post-rock, the band has no peer, at least live. Taking their increasingly devoted audiences through heights of joy and depths of melancholy, they’ve been touring relentlessly for 20 years now. That’s almost as long as the now-getting-musty term “postrock” has been around.

30 | SEP/OCT 2019

It was nearly 40 years ago that journalist James Wolcott used the term to describe the musical explorations of Todd Rundgren on his 1975 album Initiation. Rundgren had dumped his psych-garage band Nazz in 1969, passed through a commercially successful Philly soul stage in the early 70s, and with the release of Initiation, probed a partorchestral, part-fusion approach to rock that saw the 35-minute suite “A Treatise on Cosmic Fire.” By the late 1970s, German bands were exploring sounds explicitly inspired by post-modernism, including

Einstürzende Neubauten (Collapsing New Buildings), Tangerine Dream and others. The expanding Krautrock movement reached the British music scene via David Bowie and Brian Eno, following their two-year sojourn in Berlin in the late 1970s. In particular Bowie’s so-called Berlin Trilogy–Low, Heroes and Lodger (only Heroes was entirely recorded in Berlin)–applied influences from orchestral minimalists such as Steve Reich and Terry Riley. Eno, sometimes referred to as the prophet of post-rock, teamed with Bowie to elevate timbre, texture bangkok101.com


joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

and colour over riffs and straight rhythm. His musical intent, he has said, was to create a “fictional psycho-acoustic space.” This approach to rock recording was extrapolated upon in the 1980s by other UK bands, particularly Talk Talk’s Colour of Spring (1986) and Spirit of Eden (1986). During this same period, Irish shoegazers My Bloody Valentine added long passages of double-picked guitar to the postrocker’s toolbox. When Iceland’s Sigur Rós dropped into the scene in 1997, they sidestepped the lyrics issue by singing in a fabricated language that has been dubbed Vonlenska (Hopelandic), and which the band themselves describe as “a form of gibberish vocals that fits to the music and acts as another instrument.” The same year, Scottish band Mogwai upped the stakes with the release of Young Team, an album that has inspired myriad post-rock acts around the globe. Likewise, Montreal’s God Speed You! Black Emperor pummeled droning guitar into similar aural regions in 1997. Vocals became much less important, perhaps because listening to and understanding lyrics have the potential to detract from your internal life story as interpreted while listening. Unfettered by language, instrumental performances instantly became more relevant, more universal–more marketable, if you’re a cynic–to cultures on every continent. Movie music is a critical influence on Mono. Taka Goto, the band’s leader and guitarist, acknowledges he was heavily inspired by the films of Danish director Lars von Trier, in particular the 1996 film, Breaking the Waves. Says Goto, “Music is a visceral, spiritual experience. [It] may trigger a dream you had, something that filled you with joy, something you regret, a moment of sadness that you overcame, or bangkok101.com

something spiritual that cannot be explained. It’s up to the listener. For me, instrumental music creates the energy that helps me confront these emotions.” Mono’s current tour supports their latest album, Nowhere Now Here, produced by Steve Albini of Nirvana and Mogwai fame and released in January of this year. Although grounded in rock and metal as usual, for this outing the production adds electronic elements for the first time, as well as trumpet for “Funeral Song,” Bassist Tamaki Kunishi sings on one track, “Breathe,” the first time vocals have appeared in Mono’s work. Goto says, “With ‘Breathe’, there was something I really wanted to say with words. When I told Tamaki I wanted her to sing, she was very surprised. [But her] singing was more beautiful than I imagined. I feel that it turned out to be something that really echoes in people’s hearts.”

French filmmaker Julien Levy shot a sumptuous video of the band performing the tune live in a basement bar in Tokyo’s Shibuya district, and for a longer track, “After You Comes the Flood”, from the same album, which moves into darkly nihilistic Gaspar Noé-style cinematic territory. If you’ve seen Mono perform live before (I’ve seen two of their previous Bangkok shows), the upcoming Bangkok concert promises not only new tunes but one new band member, Dahm Majuri Cipolla, an American drummer from the Louisville, Kentucky, indie-rock scene replacing Yasunori Takada, who abruptly left the band in December 2017 for personal reasons. “Now the band is filled with fresh strong energy like we were reborn,” says Goto. “We really feel that a new chapter has come.”

Upcoming Mono concert: Tuesday, 24 September 2019 from 8pm onwards. At Live Arena RCA www.ticketmelon.com/sss/mono2019

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. SEP/OCT 2019 | 31


SNAPSHOTS | very thai

Dying prematurely causes the resultant phii tai hong to hang around, worried about the loose ends and unfinished businesses, including those they’ve left behind. A prompt cremation may avoid turning merely scary phii tai hong into vengeful phii phrai. On the other hand, those who die violently were buried to prevent angry souls being freed. Psychopathic phii phrai only find peace by luring victims to an identical death. Pregnant women (and/or their foetuses) make the most virulent phii phrai, like Thailand’s most enduring ghost, Mae Nak Phrakhanong. Some evil spirits purportedly possess the living. Normally, exorcisms aren’t violent and aim for a compassionate rebalancing of energy to right wrongs and begin again, like an audit clearing the books for a new financial year. Haunted houses, restless souls and supernatural soap operas Conducted by an unorthodox monk or a lay spirit doctor, exorcisms still happen. aunted houses are hardly sophisticated urban Thais who Seeking answers in the unique to Thailand, what’s poo-pooh superstition often find occult has only increased with unusual is the sheer themselves assuaging the phii ‘just modernisation. In a culture amount and how much phii (bad in case’, and uttering a mantra at governed by hierarchy and belief in spirits) affect serious day-to-day moments of fright. karma, science and logic wilt before perceptions. Ghosts are mainstay Thai ghosts come in over the unanswerable and at times of newspapers, magazines, soap 40 generic kinds, with regional arbitrary authority figures, both operas and movies. variations, each conveying moral human and divine. Generic phii Most potent is oral tradition. message. impart particular social messages, A purported 80% of Thais Other spooks derive their forms thus these spirits haunting each believe in the supernatural, and and habits from the way a person environment and activity formed take seriously those who’ve lived and died. When Thais expire a part of early Thai law. While experienced a visitation, or their winyaan (soul) hovers around, the spirit house defies modern someone who knows someone sometimes spotted translucently advancements and is a necessity who has. Some believe that dogs near their body or past known or in all homes, offices, and any howl at night on seeing a ghost, favourite hangouts. After seven properties which represent the others believe one can see a days in limbo, karma determines belief of environmental or property ghost’s true form when looking their fate and that coincide with spirits guarding the village, forest, back between one’s legs. Even the usual time for cremation. mountain, field, path or pier.

Ghost Stories

H

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 32 | SEP/OCT 2019

“Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture and an influential must-read among foreigners and Thais. It guides you on an unconventional technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand Thai. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic and snap up a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com


Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan


VARIETY 101 RAINY SEASON RENDEZVOUS Weekend getaways during the low season can be cheap but also inconvenient and cumbersome especially during the rainy season. In this issue, we will start with things to do in the dazzling white sandy beaches of Hua Hin where we explore some options of good food, freeflow drinks and fun fiesta that will melt away the stress and completely unwind any hard-working folks over the weekend. Then we will visit the mountain ranges of Chiang Rai where we feature an array of destinations and activities for a more personal and somewhat off-the-beaten-path journey. WHEN IN HUA HIN Famous for its breathtaking sunrises, dazzling white sandy beaches that fringe the Gulf of Thailand, Hua Hin is one seaside escape that is not only family-friendly but also perfect for weekends of fun-filled activities. VANA NAVA WATER PARK This is the first ecologically-aware community water park in the region and Asia’s first Water Jungle with over 200,000 plants and trees flourishing in the state-of-the-art modern facilities with 20 attractions comprises of various signature rides, slides and Thailand’s first professional underwater studio. The venue offers an entertainment complex full of activities suitable for all ages plus an array of dining options with menus created by one of Thailand’s very own Iron Chefs at the Tree Top Lounge. www.facebook.com/VanaNavaHuaHin WEEKEND EVENTS IN HUA HIN Weekend relaxation can be vital to all hard-working people of Bangkok. This unwinding regimen involves delectable food with refreshing free-flow cocktails designed and served up by the master mixologist. Azure Bar, InterContinental Hua Hin Resort and Vana Nava Sky, Holiday Inn Resort present a two-hour free-flow with a VIP Welcome “Bubbles & Party” and VIP seatings and services. Group VIP event pass is also available. Prices range from B1,850 net per person for a one-day pass or B3,499 net per person for a two-day pass. A la carte options also available upon request. Vananavahuahin.holidayinnresorts.com


TRAVEL | special report

Coffee Village, Doi Pha Hee

The Art of Life: Local Experience 360 Degrees Dive into Thailand’s many hidden gems in Chiang Rai by Morgan JT

A

vibrant and alluring destination, Chiang Rai surely is a promising destination that should be on the radar for locals, expats and visitors alike. Founded in the year 1262 as the capital of the Mengrai Dynasty, today the city retains a strong Lanna identity through its impressive collection of temples, art, language, unique cuisine and music.

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Bangkok 101 joined the initiative by Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) called the ‘Local Experience 360 Degrees: Art of Life’ where we enjoyed a threeday off-the-beaten-path excursion in Chiang Rai.

The Coffee Village, Doi Pha Hee Our journey began at a small

village located in Mae Sai District, Chiang Rai province, where the people of the Akha tribe reside. The Queen Mother and the late King Rama IX convinced the tribespeople that growing and selling coffee would bring in more consistent income all year round. Today, the community has over 12 coffee shops and 15 homestays that are personally operated by the locals. bangkok101.com


special report | TRAVEL Making desserts at Baan Sang Kong Coffee tasting with a view

Embroidered work

Folded pandan leaves

Doi Pha Hee received its fame for the breathtaking natural scenery and, of course, coffee. Visitors flock to the location especially in January to bask in the glory of the Himalayan Cherry blossoms. We enjoyed a coffee-making workshop led by the village’s leader and owner of Pha Hee Coffee shop before taking a tour of the town afterwards.

Baan Sang Kong Handmade Arts & Crafts We entered the community centre of Baan Sang Kong, where the kind and courteous host ladies greeted us with a warm welcome. Different stations showcased a variety of handmade arts and bangkok101.com

crafts items, from handmade decorative flowers to local food dishes and desserts, to embroidery pieces. We sat down in different stations to try our hands’ in some arts and crafts ourselves. We began with a hand-fold beautiful rose made using fresh pandan leaves. It turned out to be much harder to master than it seems, but we all managed (with help from the ladies, of course). Next, we upgraded to try and create intricate hand embroidered items. They also hold monthly workshops at Chiang Rai Central Prison to teach the prisoners as part of a rehabilitation programme. The pieces are shipped and sold at various stores throughout the province. I was lucky enough to receive a personal and private tour

of the surrounding gardens where beautiful trees and herbs grow. The owners are two sisters who inherited the 16-rai land from their parents. They later converted an area into a community centre while they produce a variety of fruitbearing-or medicinal-trees in the remaining property. Weaving and bobbing through the small footpath, she pointed out various trees and vegetations and explained about the food or medicinal benefits they offer. Back at the community centre, we tasted some very robust and spicy rice noodle soup or Kanom Jeen. We also tried the powerful and sharp homemade fermented Butterfly Peas whisky and fried doughnuts to replenish our energy before moving on to the next adventure. SEP/OCT 2019 | 37


TRAVEL | special report

Wat Rong Khun

Wiang Ka Long Ceramics

Wiang Ka Long Ceramics Kru Tan with a thousand year-old ceramics

Wat Rong Khun (The White Temple) It is hard to visit Chiang Rai and not make a stop at the famous White Temple. The temple started receiving visitors in 1997 and is probably one of the most known amongst visitors to Thailand’s northern provinces. On 5 May 2014, it suffered damages from the 6.3 Richter earthquake, but it has recovered its previous glory through renovation. The original Wat Rong Khun has fallen into a bad state by 38 | SEP/OCT 2019

the end of the 20th century, and there was no hope of renovation. The famous visual artist, Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat, decided to rebuild the temple with his funds as an offering to Lord Buddha. It is stated that he spent over B1,080 million into the project. The contemporary and unconventional temple exhibits a Buddhist temple style while boasting many exciting details. The admission to the temple is free for Thai nationals and costs B50 for foreigners.

Weaving through small lanes and alleys, we finally arrived at the front gates of the famed creator and only producer of the famous Wiang Ka Long ceramics in Thailand. Greeted by Kru Tan Thijittang, we learned the history of how the art of Wiang Ka Long ceramics came to be. It began with pure personal curiosity. He started researching the one-thousandyear-old ceramic art process and exploring the methods to recreate the pieces. Through decades of trial and error, he finally perfected the ancient creation process and became well-known as the creator bangkok101.com


special report | TRAVEL Wat Rong Suer Ten

Choui Fong Tea Farm

and producer of today’s highly valued Wiang Ka Long ceramics in Thailand. From historical research, the area used to be the base of a volcano. The soil still retains abundant volcanic minerals. Once processed and made into ceramics, the results are porous and lightweight items that are also sturdy and strong. It is also believed that the minerals in the soil will offer health benefits to those who use them. The uniqueness of Wiang Ka Long ceramics is in the light and natural soil colour obtained after processing. The tones produced are navy blue and reddish-brown. The decorations include intriguing patterns that exist nowhere else generally portraying legends and teachings of Buddhism helps elevate the items to international popularity.

Wat Rong Suer Ten (The Blue Temple) Located in Rimkok District just outside of Chiang Rai, this is a bangkok101.com

grand result by a student of Ajarn Chalermchai Kositpipat whose White Temple attracts people from all over. The contemporary and creative temple shines a specific shade of blue. While the main temple is open to the public, some areas are still under construction. It has become another attractive location to visit in Chiang Rai. Inside the temple features wall paintings and bas reliefs that resemble those of Wat Rong Khun. Inside the main temple stands a great marble-white sitting Buddha surrounded by exquisitely detailed angels on the lotus base. We’d recommend the best time to visit is in the morning hours before noon because the temple faces the East and would receive the best light then. The Blue Temple is not as well known to visitors. However, we are confident it will become one of the staple locations for those who visit Chiang Rai very soon. There is no public transport that will take travellers to the temple, but one can hire a van or tuk-tuk to get there.

Admission is free, and visitors can take pictures inside the main temple’s hall.

Art of tea at Choui Fong Farm Today we started with morning tea at Choui Fong tea plantation. It sits about 40 kilometres from Chiang Rai, and it is one of the best known and most extensive tea plantations in the province. The areas are separated into three sectors while the one we went to is most visited since it has a gorgeous view of the mountains over the fields. Choui Fong tea plantation offers daily tea workshop for all visitors. The educational information revolves around teamaking processes and different types of tea available at the farm. Visitors can also enjoy a little bit of shopping in the store and order the Choui Fong tea and desserts from the café to sit and enjoy while drinking in the view. Choui Fong tea plantation opens daily from 8:30am-5:30pm. SEP/OCT 2019 | 39


TRAVEL | special report

Ban Dam Museum

oil and other products to paint the houses to protect the wood from the elements while also rendering the matte black shade he so loved. He obtained the land over 50 years ago and began adding different buildings to the compound. Some buildings function as art galleries or exhibition halls. Some are for storage. Some worked as his art studio and accommodation where he would lock himself in for days at a time while working on his many projects. The compound comprises The entry is free. The best time to of over 40 buildings of different visit is early in the morning when shapes and sizes. The buildings it’s not too hot, and there will also are of unique mixes between be lesser visitors and plenty of traditional northern Thai selfie opportunities. architecture style with some very outlandish modern designs. The main house commands Baan Dam Museum the most attention as it is one of the largest and closest to the Next destination was the Baan road. Entering the main hall, we Dam Museum (meaning ‘black were greeted by a grand display house’), located only a few of art pieces and collections, all minutes by car from Chiang Rai very impressive in details and city. The museum belonged to the sizes. Large portions of handmade family of now-deceased national furniture lined the main gallery. artist, Thawan Duchanee. These items are designed and The namesake came from made by the artist using the the artist’s idea to preserve and collection of wood and buffalo protect the wood while focusing horns he collected. on using his favourite black colour. The museum opens daily He mixed a concoction of motor 9am-5pm, closes for lunch 12pmBan Dam Museum

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Buffalo horns furniture

1pm and the entry fee is B80 per person.

Khua Silapa Gallery Our final stop for this beautiful trip concludes at the modern Art Bridge Chiang Rai (ABCR) or locally known as ‘Khua Silapa’. The building houses gallery spaces, a souvenir shop and a coffee shop. The gallery was created to offer exhibition spaces for local artists to showcase their work no matter where they are in their career path. The art exhibitions rotate monthly. This is to provide an essential platform for local artists to find much-needed exposure while giving visitors an artistic and cultural showcase location. Special Thanks: • Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) • Ookbee U Co., Ltd. • Thai Smile Airways • The Riverie by Kata Thani Resort, Chiang Rai • De Lanna Riverfront restaurant • Jan Chay Thai restaurant • Salungkham restaurant • Doimok Dokmai restaurant bangkok101.com


LE MERIDIEN CHIANG RAI RESORT 221/2 Moo 20 Kwaewai Road, Tambon Robwieng, Amphur Muang, Chiang Rai 57000 Thailand T +66 5360 3333 F +66 5360 3331 lemeridien.chiangrai@lemeridienhotels.com

www.marriott.com/ceimd


TRAVEL | alternative healing

Slowing Down Faster Than the Speed of Light Visiting Southeast Asia’s first tachyon chamber in Chiang Mai by Amy Poulton

"

I

’ll come and get you in 20 minutes,” Toam says as she closes the door. I shuffle my head against the pillow and try to relax. I’m lying on a mattress in the middle of the floor, a circular plate below and golden bars of a prism meeting in a point above me, with a crystal balanced at the pyramid’s peak. In each corner of the room there are more crystals, positioned at differing levels and measured to the exact millimetre. The fan 42 | SEP/OCT 2019

above me whirs. I contemplate the room’s décor. Birds sing outside. I can’t help but giggle a little to myself. This is Southeast Asia’s first tachyon chamber, a facility which claims to harness powerful healing tachyon energy from the universe. “The energy cannot penetrate the atmosphere,” explains Toam, who runs Sote Wellness Haven where the chamber is located, a 10-minute drive from Chiang Mai.

“There’s an oscillator attached to a satellite and a receiver in the chamber itself. A wormhole is created, so what happens up there happens down here at the same time. The energy is faster than light and is ‘conscious,’ which means that it works on whatever you need.” This is the attraction of the mysterious tachyon: the reported balancing and healing powers, both for the people who use it and the environment the chamber bangkok101.com


alternative healing | TRAVEL

is located in. Toam reveals how initially they planned to open the chamber in Bangkok, but were advised by the makers of the equipment to choose Chiang Mai, which was more in line with the Earth’s ‘acupressure points.’ The first session lasts for 20 minutes (payment by donation), with reports of any longer being too intense. The full tachyon treatment lasts six cumulative sessions of 20 or 30 minutes, with frequency of sessions being every day or every other day. Toam is hesitant to discuss other clients’ experiences in the chamber, partly for confidentiality purposes, but also because she wants me to experience the chamber for myself first, so that my experience is without bias. “Around 100 people have tried the chamber since we opened it in January, all with very different bangkok101.com

experiences. Some have a set intention, others are looking for spiritual insight, others still are just curious. People fly from neighbouring Asian countries or Russia. More foreigners come here for the chamber than Thai people.” Of course, tachyon treatment is not without controversy. The very existence of the tachyon is strongly denied by many physicists, who maintain that particles which travel faster than the speed of light do not exist because this would break the laws of physics. At present, tachyons are considered by many to be only hypothetical. Yet, after my initial chuckle, I certainly experienced something powerful myself in the chamber: a deep relaxation, an inward journey more intense than any meditation or yoga session, and even visions.

As Toam eloquently describes, as I emerge a little dazed, what I had was ‘an energised nap.’ “The tachyon chamber is good for people and good for the Earth. We are so out of balance now,” Toam sighs and I certainly agree that this much is true. Everything is energy; thoughts, love. Just because we can’t see, touch, or measure something, does that mean it doesn’t exist? Whether my tachyon experience was genuine, or an excellent example of the placebo effect, taking 20 minutes out of one’s day to slow down, meditate and rebalance is something we could all do with including in our daily routines to improve physical and mental health. Sote Wellness Chamber, 80 26 Chom Doi Tambon Chang Phueak, Chiang Mai. SEP/OCT 2019 | 43


TRAVEL | special report

Bruce Konefe, Ruengrit Changkwanyuen

Tham Luang Nang Non Cave Rescue: Commemoration

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t has been over a year since a Thai youth football team explored Tham Luang Nang Non cave in Chiang Rai and got trapped inside for 18 days due to the heavy rainfall and flood. The clock was ticking as lives of 13 lives from Wild Boars Academy were hanging by a thread. This marked the beginning of the phenomenal help and support from multiple national and international authorities, professional divers, locals, etc. In an interview with three professional diving instructors who took part in the ongoing rescue mission, some insights are recounted. Your background. Mr Ruengrit Changkwanyuen: I am a Scuba Dive Instructor and 44 | SEP/OCT 2019

Technical Diver. I trained rescue volunteer divers and was also involved during the tsunami disaster to help clean the site and body recovery. My expertise is special diving equipment and technical diving. Mr Bruce Konefe: I am originally from the United States, I have lived in Thailand for over 25 years. I started cave diving since the year 2000. I am an Instructor Trainer Director for American Nitrox Divers (ANDI). I teach all levels of cave diving in both diver and Instructor levels. I have written Two ANDI Cave manuals/training materials plus all of the Cave Instructor Procedures. Mr Mikko Paasi: I am a 44-yearold father of one daughter from

Finland. I have run a diving school in Koh Tao, Koh Tao Divers (www. kohtaodivers.com) for 20 years as a professional Thailand diver instructor specialising in deep sea wreck and cave exploration. My passion is exploring new sites and documenting them with my camera. I took my first diving lesson back in 1994, Turkey. Joining the rescue. Mr Ruengrit: On Sunday 24 June, I first heard the news on the radio while driving but I did not pay much attention. On the morning of Monday 25 June, I was home and saw the news about 12 kids and their coach got stuck in flooded cave in Chiang Rai. I saw two Thai Navy SEAL divers with their single tank in their back with regular scuba diving configuration try to bangkok101.com


special report | TRAVEL

get into the Cave and thought they were going to die trying to get to those boys. Thai Navy SEAL did not have proper equipment or cave/ technical diving training. My specialised equipment for cave diving and highly skilled cave diving instructor network could help make this mission safe and successful. So, I decided to offer my help. I asked my sister and her friend, Khun Narinthorn Na BangChang to help reach out to Chiang Rai provincial office. Until the afternoon, the provincial officer asked how they would get the kids out if they found them. I told them we could use the Full Face Mask. Around 4pm Khun Narinthorn called and told me we had a green light and to catch the 7:30pm flight. I reached the Cave at 10pm on Monday 25 June. Mr Bruce: I was at home in Pattaya when I heard the kids were trapped in the cave on social media. I was contacted by Ruengrit on June 24 and was asked if I could come up to Chiang Rai to assist the Thai Navy Seals and with the rescue. I was on a flight the very next morning. Mr Mikko: I saw the news on social media in Malta. It started as lost boys in a cave and later turned into a flood case. A few friends went up to Chiang Rai and connected me to the technical scene, sending necessary equipment from my own shop in Koh Tao. I later received a lot of phone calls which gathered a group of certified divers to fly over and join the rescue party. Your contribution. Mr Ruengrit: I brought all my technical diving equipment; specially cave diving equipment, sidemount systems and Full Face Masks when we found those kids. I was inside the cave providing knowledge on how to properly bangkok101.com

nations work together through adverse conditions and never give up. It was great to have been part of it. Mr Mikko: I was amazed how it all went down, to be able to bring them all out safely with all the obstacles. We were pleased with the outcome as things could have been much worse. We had to choose between a bad and less bad option. Mikko Paasi

prepare sidemount harness system for cave diving to the Navy SEAL. And I was working side by side with the Navy SEAL inside Chamber 3. Mr Bruce: I had spent time training the Thai Navy Seals with cave diving techniques and getting more trained cave divers. Collaboration with the US military and Australian police. Mr Mikko: We did a lot of site cleaning and dove in tens of stage tanks to the kids and other rescuers. During the extraction, I was one of the key divers working in Chamber No.8 (3km) in the cave. Your key takeaways. Mr Ruengrit: I was grateful that I had a chance to be part of this rescue mission. This whole operation gave me a sense of hope in humanity and goodness in people around the world. I have seen and experienced people willing to help someone they never knew. It had a great impact in my life especially with my daughters, how I teach them; to be kind and help others in need. Mr Bruce: Memories that I will never be able to forget were to see so many people from different

The most challenging part. Mr Ruengrit: To keep focusing on the tasks in the harshest environment. We solved problems as they came as teamwork. Mr Bruce: Continuous rain storms and flooding made it difficult to stay dry especially on your feet. Everyday we were walking in mud and water. Mr Mikko: The hardest part was to dive through the narrow restrictions with a little child in your arms. Advice for cave visitors. Mr. Ruengrit: Learn and study the cave prior to your visit. Talk to local officials about safety and proper procedure. Bring safety equipment. Listen and follow local official before entering. Stay calm. Try to find exit by yourself if possible but do not waste too much energy. The most important thing is to have hope. Mr Bruce: Check the weather conditions, carry extra backup lights and let someone know that you will be going into the cave and by what time you should be out. Mr Mikko: I would encourage kids to never stop exploring and start at a young age. Do not let mistakes stop you from going out, learn from them. Be cautious and pay attention to signs and weather conditions beforehand. SEP/OCT 2019 | 45


New Grids by Sopheap Pich

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orn in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, Sopheap Pich has established an astounding international career since his first exhibition in Bangkok. His new series of grids is an achievement of profound affects and resonances from material substances, introducing maturity in the artist’s practice. Found materials, painted and stitched surfaces and organic forms have previously shaped poignant sensibilities and hinted at dark histories. Pich’s practice has developed through an engagement with gridded structures within a layered relationship to art historical formalism and the symbolism of regimentation, concealment and instability. Now Pich heightens a more abstracted quality which is rooted in an all-encompassing view of our environment; from the rudimentary aspects of the built environment, such as the humble brick, to suggestions of growth and both the haptic and visceral experience of the natural world. 1 September-31 October

H GALLERY BANGKOK

201 Sathorn Soi 12 085 021 5508 | Wed-Mon 10am-6pm, Tue by appointment www.hgallerybkk.com

facebook.com/bambangkokartmap


ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Sukhumvit Gallery

A classic photo gallery dedicated to the history of Sukhumvit Road

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bangkok101.com


museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE Swan Lake

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ocated at the corner of Sukhumvit Soi 31, Hyatt Regency Sukhumvit insists on prolonging the legacy of Nana. Bangkok 101 was able to catch up with Mr Sammy Carolus, General Manager of Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit about the inspiration of the gallery. The founding of Nana can be traced back to the 1850s and the signing of the Bowring Treaty, an agreement between the Kingdom of Siam and the British Empire that liberalised foreign trade in Siam. Now, apart from its rich culture, Nana serves as an important intersection within and gateway to urban business where locals and foreigners interact. The area is an original and multicultural melting pot in Bangkok, which is connected to the construction of Sukhumvit Road. Bangkok and Sukhumvit are interdependent, cosmopolitan yet firmly rooted in its past, creatively bangkok101.com

combining modern urban lifestyles with history. As a result, the Vice Chairman of the Board of Directors of Grande Asset Hotels and Property PCL and also a former Bangkok governor, Dr Bhichit Rattakul, began acuumulating research and collecting data from National Library of Thailand, National Archives of Thailand and more reliable resources to finally establishing Sukhumvit Gallery. The permanent collection exhibits rare, irreplaceable photographs, a valuable story archive of Sukhumvit Road, key personages, landmarks, palaces, mansions and transportation that was never previously revealed to the public. They are sourced from families that originally lived on the road and advised by honorary professors and historical experts. The space can act as a learning platform that reflects genuine Bangkokian way of life through the generations in contrast to the contemporary representation

of the neighbourhood that has become one of the busiest and most developed in the city. The displayed materials will allow guests to understand the drastic transformation of the road from decades ago until turning into a fast-growing business capital. The hotel’s Marketing Communications and Food and Beverage team also works closely to ensure that visitors can experience the photography exhibition along with Afternoon Tea filled with content and aesthetics.

Sukhumvit Gallery Hyatt Regency Bangkok Hotel 4F, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 (BTS Nana) Tel: 02 098 1234 SEP/OCT 2019 | 49


Photos by Olga Kerelyuk

ART & CULTURE | special report

Final of the Opera

2019 International Festival of Dance & Music A feast of dazzling old and new music and dance forms by Lekha Shankar

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he 2019 International Festival of Dance and Music boasts an exciting amalgam of old and new art forms— opera, ballet, modern dance and acrobatics. “We break new grounds every year and always try to ensure that we have something for everyone. There’s a strong mix of classical and contemporary productions lined up this year too,” says the Chairman of the Festival, Mr JS Uberoi. The biggest name this year is Jose Carreras, the legendary opera singer, known as one of the ‘Three Tenors of the World’ on his farewell tour. This makes his performances even more sought after. Accompanying him will be a world-renowned soprano like

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Celine Byrne and conductor David Giménez. Also proudly presenting this year is China’s ‘National Treasure’, the multi-award-winning singer Li Yugang enacting her latest musical drama ‘Lady Zhaojun’ with nearly 70 singers and dancers. This new show is being performed outside Beijing for the first time. Also performing this year for the first time in Bangkok is the Budapest Symphony Orchestra, ‘Hungary’s most versatile and progressive symphony orchestra’ according to the Festival Chairman. They have performed in nearly every part of the world and their exciting repertoire will include Tchaikovsky, Liszt and Bela Bartok. They will be led by the world-

famous Conductor and Artistic Director András Keller. As usual, there’s a wealth of Russian ballet and opera performances and this year will include two outstanding groups— the Ekaterinburg Opera Theatre and the Kremlin Ballet. “Both companies are at the forefront of the performing arts scene not only in Russia but Europe,” states Uberoi. The Ekaterinburg Opera Theatre has won an astounding 15 Golden Mask Awards and will be enacting two striking but totally different love stories—Puccini’s last opera ‘Turandot’ and Dvorak’s most popular opera ‘Rusalko’. While the Kremlin Ballet, one of the top five ballet companies in bangkok101.com


special report | ART & CULTURE Swan Lake

Mr JS Uberoi

Photos by Sascha Vaughan

Photos by Elena Lekhova

A Rusalka-Olga Tenyakova

The Trocks-Wedding

Russia, will enact three outstanding ballets—Victor Hugo’s The Hunchback of Notre Dame which has been described as an ‘edgeof-the-seat classical ballet thriller’; ‘A Thousand and One Nights’ from the spectacular ‘Arabian Nights’ tale and Tchaikovsky’s ever-popular Swan Lake under the legendary founder-director Andrei Petrov. Two more ballets at the festival will be performed on ice by the UK’s famed Imperial Ice Stars, the only ice-skating company in the world to have won a theatrical award. Also, in the lineup this year is the outstanding Swiss Compagnia Finzi Pasca’s show ‘La Verita’. The performance will incorporate a of acrobatics, theatrics, dance and music with multi-talented artists bangkok101.com

who has performed at over 63 cities in 24 countries. A must-see performance is by the Introdans modern dance troupe from the Netherlands, returning to the festival for the third time this year. The Dutch Ambassador to Thailand HE Kees Pieter Rade states, “Introdans provides a very modern interpretation of the ballet concept, sometimes challenging gravity, uniting a young and old audience in the public.” Returning again this year is another globally renowned group, the Les Ballets Trockadero from New York, a pioneering male dancers troupe called the ‘Trocks’ who introduced comedy to classical ballet and have delighted

audiences around the world by enacting swans, princesses and sprites with ease. The 2019 International Festival of Dance & Music has much to offer and plenty of choices for all. The 20th International Festival of Dance & Music is brought to Bangkok, Thailand by International Cultural Promotions Limited and its patrons and partners. It has become recognised as one of the most outstanding performing arts festivals in Asia with a rather permanent place in Bangkok and Thailand’s annual cultural calendar. For programme details, visit: www.bangkokfestivals.com To reserve your tickets, visit: www. thaiticketmajor.com/icp2019 or call 02 262 3456 SEP/OCT 2019 | 51


Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Goethe-Institut Thailand presents Photo Exhibition A LAND LOST:

THE MLABRI OF NORTHERN THAILAND by Sascha Richter 29 August-15 October An authentic ethnological photography exhibition by social documentary photographer Sascha Richter in collaboration with Thai Professor Sakkarin to portray the formerly nomadic tribe Mlabri. Sascha Richter’s photography opens a controversial debate of habitat protection in Thailand by documenting the life of the Mlabri, focusing on people and their interdependencies with space. The habitat of this community continuously decreased since the 1970s, and state-led initiatives introduced a sedentary lifestyle to them in the 1990s. They live in five permanent settlements in present time. The ongoing deforestation of Thailand in order to generate more space for agriculture projects has shaped their story. These agricultural developments not only forced the Mlabri to settle down, but also brought along rapid social change for them. Free Admission. sascharichter.co.uk

Goethe-Institut Thailand

18/1 Goethe Gasse, Sathorn Soi 1 T: 02 108 8200 | info-bangkok@goethe.de | Mon-Fri 8am-6pm www.goethe.de


ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

until sep 15 GROUP SHOW #1

Le Link Gallery BKK 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd | 095 591 5014 Wed-Sun 12pm-6pm | lelinkgallery.com Le Link Gallery BKK is hosting the first group exhibition, Group Show #1, showcasing installations, sculptures, embroidery, paintings, drawings and prints by young, dynamic, colourful contemporary artists from Thailand: Nilraya Bundasak and Phongsa Sornchai, Belgium: Le Pappilllion Perse, Germany: Golden Green and Kete Link, Spain: Sozyone Gonzalez and Peru: Wesr Figueroa.

until sep 15 MOMMY HUGS

Palette Artspace Galleries & Art Classes: 1055-1057 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Daily 7am-9pm Green Lantern (Museum): 1045 Sukhumvit Soi 55 080 994 6683 | Daily 11am-7pm | greenlanternmuseum. business.site An exhibition by Master Tawee Ratchaneekorn. As the child emerges into the world, they experience the five senses for the first time. They feel the temperature of their surroundings and see the light. They learn not only how to breathe, but also how to scream in fear. The child stops screaming in their mother's embrace as fear is replaced by love and safety.

until sep 15 REALITY AS IT ISN’T

S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 02 662 0299 Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm facebook.com/ sacbangkok A solo exhibition by Uttaporn Nimmalaikaew; his artwork has been auctioned off at Christie’s and Sotheby’s. His work is a hallucinating collection of various layers of fine, interwoven fabric that sit suspended in an exceptional three-dimensional configuration. Each piece is painted and printed, shaped and layered to emanate an illusion of our mental chaos. 56 | SEP/OCT 2019

bangkok101.com


exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

until sep 28 THE RELATIONS

Joyman Gallery 357-359 Maha Chai Rd | 065 124 2222 Tue-Sun 11am-8:30pm | joymangallery.com This exhibition integrates 12 major artists who created extraordinary works. Each person demonstrated their talents with charm and unique identity that is ready for everyone to explore. As could be seen, it brings together successful artists who stand proudly in the Thai art scene. Every piece of work has been elevated and refined from the wisdom and life experience of the artists, hoping that this exhibition will inspire all audiences (Witchakorn Tangklangkulachorn).

until sep 30 THE COLOURS OF EMOTION

Eat Me Restaurant and Art Gallery Phi Phat Soi 2, Convent Rd | 08 1293 6326, 02 238 0931 Daily 3pm-1am | eatmerestaurant.com The Colours of Emotion is a continuation of Living Spectrum, Bryce Watanasoponwong’s debut exhibition. In this new series, Bryce focuses on the idea of exploring human emotion through colour, which he uses as a metaphor for understanding the human condition and what connects us all. This exhibition will run from 1 July through 30 September at Eat Me Restaurant and Art Gallery.

until oct 7 LEONARDO OPERA OMNIA

River City Bangkok 3F, Charoen Krung Soi 24 | 02 237 0077 ext.182 Daily 10am-10pm |rivercitybangkok.com An exciting part of this year’s Italian Festival in Thailand will be the celebration of the 500th anniversary of Leonardo Da Vinci. The Embassy of Italy and Rai Com in collaboration with RIVER CITY BANGKOK proudly present Leonardo OPERA OMNIA, an exhibition that showcases the 17 most prominent paintings of the widely celebrated Italian artist, Leonardo Da Vinci. Reproduced by sophisticated digital techniques, backlighting system, and collaboration of professional photographers. bangkok101.com

SEP/OCT 2019 | 57


Kanom Maw Kaeng and Rose Mousse, Blue Elephant Bangkok


AROY

(means tasty)

We will take you through a variety of exciting stories around Thailand that will end with an array of delicious dining options available from every corner of the City of Angels. We begin with a trip up north where we explore the making of Khao Pook with the local tribe. Then, a thought-provoking piece about whether luxury equals to quality from numerous chefs’ opinions. We finally caught up with Chef DK of Haoma Bangkok in an exclusive interview on what he’s been working on and what’s new at his urban farm restaurant. We then explore a little bit about the health benefits of Açaí and how best (or most delicious) ways to consume the berries; followed by numerous delectable and fulfilling dining options from Spanish delights, Japanese delicacies, Italian’s Roman cuisine, Indian curries to the elegant and robust royal Thai recipes.

Upcoming food events: 2-8 September 2019 The 20th World Gourmet Festival at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel A Journey of Gastronomic Excellence with sixteen chefs, eleven Michelin-starred restaurants from nine countries in seven days at one hotel. Nine Countries. Seven Days. One Hotel. www.worldgourmetfestival.asia 30 September 2019 Eat Drink Pink 2019 The Peninsula Bangkok will host another edition of the popular Eat Drink Pink event as part of its Pink Breast Cancer Awareness campaign on 30 September 2019. The funds raised will be donated towards the Queen Sirikit Centre for Breast Cancer Foundation in Chulalongkorn Hospital. www.peninsula.com 15-22 September 2019 8th edition So Amazing Chefs 2019 SO Sofitel Bangkok presents one of the most anticipated eight-day culinary events this September. Renowned chefs from a total of eight Michelin-starred restaurants will cook up a storm at its dynamic dining venues. www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com/so-amazing-chefs-2019


FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories

Khao Pook Nga:

Mochi of the Highlands

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e’re standing in a semi-circle in a red-dirt yard, sipping hot coffee blossom tea, and before us is a towering Akha tribal version of Thor, wielding a gigantic 4-foot wooden pestle. The enemy is a huge mound of thick, sticky white gooey-ness sitting nonchalantly in a hollowedout tree-trunk-turned-mortar. Our hero is doing his best to pound it to smithereens but struggles as its glutinous force overpowers him; soon, he loses energy, gives up and steps back. Giggles ensue. His handsome, lithe companion subsequently steps into the arena, taking the pestle from his hands. Although of a much smaller build, his deft, efficient movements help him to develop a good rhythm, and the snowy-white glob eventually surrenders into a paste. After a few more strokes, another young man starts throwing in a fine black powder from a bamboo tray, held by an elderly lady. He darts in and out quickly, lest his hands are also caught by the ginormous pestle. We’re at an Akha village in the hills of Chiang Rai, watching our dessert, khao pook gna, being made. And, indeed, it’s a good thing we’re in a village – as it really does seem to take one to make this local delicacy. Made by both the Akha and Tai Yai hill-tribes of Northern Thailand, the key ingredients of this Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

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more-ish, mochi-like treat are glutinous mountain rice and a special kind of black sesame, called nga kee mon. The seeds are toasted to bring out their distinctively fragrant aroma, and then pounded together with freshly steamed sticky rice, until both combine into one smooth texture. Typically, a little salt is added, too. The resulting mixture is rolled into balls, flattened into patties and placed onto lightly-oiled banana leaves. The patties can be eaten immediately or – for that flavourful maillard effect – further grilled on a charcoal stove or deep-fried and dusted with unrefined cane sugar. Traditionally, khao pook nga is considered an auspicious sweet, and is given out to monks and village neighbours during the annual harvesting of rice in the cool season, which coincides with the new year. Aside from being a delicious and propitious snack, it’s also a food waste solution: villagers find it’s a tasty way to use up and store leftover sticky rice. There are health benefits, too: nga kee mon is said to help to warm the body, relieve constipation and reduce blood cholesterol. Our good-looking tribesman has now broken a sweat and is standing back to appreciate his work. We sink our teeth into the final creation and are greeted with a warm, aromatic, glutinous resistance with a slight saltiness that makes our mouths water. It’s the perfect complement to our tea. As we leave, we’re told with a chuckle that, according to Akha custom, a man who isn’t able to pound khao pook nga won’t have much luck at finding a wife. I don’t think our handsome friend will have any problems. Indeed, men: on your next date, I suggest taking along some glutinous rice, black sesame - and a sturdy mortar and pestle. bangkok101.com


eat like nym | FOOD & DRINK

Play Farm

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any times, the environment of a place is more important than the location itself, such place exists at Play Farm and Play Café in Thepharak district. Located a few hundred metres in Soi Thewa 3 is a rustic and retro-style restaurant juxtaposed to Khlong Samrong, the original canal that was excavated from the time of Thailand’s greatest poet Sunthorn Phu. Some might think it’s an antique store or a kingdom of collectibles–retro toys, classic motorbikes, bikes, old-school advertising posters and grandfather clocks. Mai, Sermkit Thammawong converted the empty space next to his house into an animal farm with a restaurant. The assortment of animals eventually reduced to only chickens, ducks and geese but the food menu continues to grow. What I like the most is the sabai feeling of an open-air space which is rare in Bangkok. Since this location is closer to the mouth of the Thai gulf and has a network of waterways around it, clean air and cool breezes serenade the space at night. The nostalgic atmosphere reminds me of yesteryear restaurants/ pubs or the ‘upcountry’ places where we would go for a birthday dinner with friends and family, graduation day, first date or the broken-hearted night. My first dish was black pepper ostrich in a hot pan. The aroma of black pepper and the sizzling Nym, as our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster bangkok101.com

sounds arrived first. The ostrich meat tasted like good quality beef, tender but firm. Followed by a curry with milky texture, roasted mushrooms and Cha Plu (betel) leaves. The blend of unique textures with sweet and spicy flavours in the coconut milk was great. The highlight was the aroma of Cha Plu leaves and the secret creamy taste that revealed when I cracked the mushrooms in my mouth. The danger is once you start, it’s hard to stop! Next was a snapper yellow curry in hot pot, a southern curry style with the spiciness toned down to match the taste of central Thailand. The last dish, indispensable for a meal here, was tuna sago salad–sashimi tuna covered with a mixture of Thai lemongrass and wasabi. The magic created between the wasabi and lemongrass was one of the most unforgettable sensations of all! There is also live folk band on stage by the khlong. I appreciated that I didn’t need to shout while talking since the music wasn’t too loud, though this place left me feeling so happy listening to music over great food and cold drinks. Address: 882 Soi Thewa 3, Theparak Rd, Muang, Samutprakarn. Take the Skytrain to Samrong Station, then a taxi to Soi Thewa 3 for less than B50 and a short walk. Play Farm opens 2pm-12am daily except main Buddhist days and election days. Tel: 085 596 4161 SEP/OCT 2019 | 61


FOOD & DRINK | bitchin’ in the kitchen

Flash in the Pan

Does luxury always mean quality? Thailand’s chefs weigh in on the debate about the real meaning of luxury

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aviar. Foie gras. Wagyu. Truffle. Lobster. The list goes on. With increasing frequency, fanned by the viral flames of social media, these items appear on the fine china and starched white tablecloths of fine dining and not so fine establishments the world over. Many of us grew up believing these luxurious foods were synonymous with decadence, reserved for the famous and privileged. Who else dreamed of a tuxedo-clad waiter with white gloves holding a silver salver of tiny toasts and shimmery fish eggs with a generous side of arrogance, the only type money could buy? As demands grew, many inferior substitutes for these ‘fine’ products began to rear their mainstream heads on the menus of restaurant chains and the hotels’ Sunday buffet lines as well as the allegedly more up-market venues. Faced with everyday punters desperate to infiltrate the world of Oprah Samantha Proyrungtong, and Australianborne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: BangkokFoodiesThailand, IG: BangkokFoodies

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and opulence, restaurants started to source and serve ‘poor man’s’ alternatives. Foie gras of ambiguous origins, pan-seared and masked with viscous cherry sauce, or ‘langostino’ unashamedly labelled as ‘lobster’ have crept onto menus. Others list ‘truffle’ yet fail to mention the words ‘summer’, ‘faux’ or ‘farmed’ and still command a hefty price for being showily shaved onto pasta, despite an aroma that resembles a pedestrian mushrooms gone rancid. The desire for luxury items has resulted in sustainable inventions like vegetarian caviar, created from the spherification of seaweed algae to mimic the fishy taste of legit caviar. And then there’s the scientifically tweaked ‘Impossible Meat’, a plantbased heme which is made via the fermentation of genetically engineered yeast (and incidentally often sold at a eye-watering mark-up that approaches wagyu). On the other end of the spectrum, there is the de-gentrification (read: hipsterfication) of formerly fine foods, like the lobster roll in a brioche bun and caviar on, well, just about anything. In a bid to understand where luxury truly stands today from the minds of people who actually create gastronomic dishes, I decided to ask some of Thailand’s most notable chefs about what luxury produce means to them. The answers may just surprise you. Spoiler: it’s not about the caviar. bangkok101.com


bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

“Anything can be luxurious,” says Arnaud Dunand-Sauthier of Le Normandie in the Mandarin Oriental Bangkok. “It just depends on the way you cook it and present it. For me, a real organic product vegetable or meat is a luxury. Of course I use lobster, caviar and truffle but actually I am also using short ribs, mackerel, sardines and mussels. French tradition is based on the best products, not the most expensive.” “No. I don’t consider those items luxury,” Deepanker Khosla of urban-farming Haoma states. “Caviar is highly unsustainable. Truffles are overpriced mushrooms and there is an ever-growing fake industry. Luxury dining to me, in terms of produce, is making produce grown in the region and consumed in the region using high standards of sustained biodynamic and organic means of production. This is the luxury of nature, luxury of perseverance, luxury of making an effort to save our planet.”

Jim Ophorst of PRU Restaurant in the Trisara Phuket, “There are classic chefs who prefer to use those ingredients because it’s their style. You have other chefs who prefer to cook with simpler ingredients. For me, it is something that you can get as fresh as possible and delivered to your place daily. It doesn’t matter if this is caviar or a carrot. We have a dish on the menu that is based on just a carrot. We grow the carrot on our own so we really can get the highest quality available.” “There should be no produce that is better than any other,” states Jutamas ‘Som’ Theantae of the soon-to-reopen Karmakamet Conveyance. “A banana at a banana shop is as valuable as some other ingredients like caviar in a restaurant, which is categorised as a rare and luxury ingredients. Why are we going out of our way to satisfy ourselves to search for unnecessary ingredients, growing and farming unnecessary things or destroying something to get something on our table?”

LOCATION 20 meters off Convent Road (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

SEP/OCT 2019 | 63


“Rise of the Indian Orient” An interview with Chef DK of Haoma Bangkok

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eginning with the goal to create a fully sustainable restaurant concept, Chef Deepanker Khosla (or Chef DK) built Haoma Bangkok from the ground up. Today, the restaurant has grown into a respectable fine dining destination serving creative menus in the city. Has Haoma’s restaurant concept changed? “The concept for the restaurant hasn’t changed but the food concept has gone through some kind of revolution, definitely. We used to focus on the urban farm, sustainability, using only local produce or whatever we grow in our garden here. Today, we are strictly serving Neo-Indian cuisine—the cuisine prior to the traditional precolonisation era of India. Why Neo-Indian cuisine? “First of all, no one has ever done this before, especially in fine dining setting. This is very new and I would love to be a bridge between the ‘real’ Indian food

and the Indian food that people have come to know today. India, as a country, has gone through numerous changes in terms of culture, daily life, religion, lifestyle and especially food and this range of flavours is what I really want to bring to the plates at Haoma.

What’s important to me, personally, is that every dish at Haoma must have four important elements: a mix of my childhood memory (about food, of course), the flavours that work with everyone, playfulness and a great story or legend behind it.

What is your process of designing a new menu? “The process of crafting new menu is done from the bottom up. We’d visit the farmers we’re working with in Chiang Mai and elsewhere. We discuss with them about what kind of crops they will have, say, from November to April. Once we have a list of the available crops, then we start designing the menu.

What else can we expect from Haoma in the near future? “As we start to explore the depth of Neo-Indian food, I believe we will be offering more unique and exciting dishes to our diners. We are also planning numerous events involving many great chefs who have similar visions to come and cook with us so keep watching this space for those.

Haoma Bangkok 231/3 Sukhumvit 31 Rd (Soi Sawasdee) | Tel: 02 038 5821 | Open: Tue-Fri 6-11pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm, 6-11pm www.haoma.dk | www.facebook.com/HaomaBKK


feature | FOOD & DRINK

Superfood 101: Açaí

The rise of health oriented eateries in Bangkok food scene has made superfoods more familiar to the locals now than ever by Fha Kanch

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ne of the more unfamiliar names in smoothie bowl and menu, açaí, is widely used as a base. Before ending up as smoothie, this ingredient can come in the form of powder or whole berry freezedried to maintain intact nutrients. It originally comes from palm trees native to Brazil and Peru. Its small round fruit or berry has dark purple to almost black colour and a kernel in the middle surrounded by the flesh (drupe). Although the preparation and recipe can differ depending on the location, açaí bowl or açaí na tigela is a Brazilian dish made of frozen and mashed açaí palm fruit served as a smoothie in a bowl topped with a variety of fruits, nuts and seeds, and granola or in a glass pure or blended with other fruits and vegetables. It is typical along the coast, beach kiosks, and juice bars. Açaí is titled superfood due to its rich antioxidants, fibre, bangkok101.com

and heart-healthy fats content meaning it is a nutrient-rich food that promotes health and well-being. While side effects of overconsumption and disease prevention are debatable, it still has more antioxidants than most berries. The fair amount of fibre in one serving of açaí is about the same as carbohydrate and fat although compared to other fruits such as bananas and mangoes, it might contain less carbohydrate. The type of fatty acids found is also known to support low-density lipoprotein (LDL) or bad cholesterol decrease in arteries and at the same time boost high-density lipoprotein or good cholesterol that benefits the heart in a long term. Apart from having high Vitamin C content, it can help regenerate energy and strength

as a post-workout and guilt-free rejuvenating snack. The taste of açaí berries, especially when puréed, is naturally sweet and mildly acidic with a hint of red wine and brine and a slight dark chocolate aftertaste. Classic recipes are vegan and gluten-free. The traditional açaí smoothie base consists of three ingredients: açaí, bananas and water or juice to enhance its texture and thickness. The toppings vary according to one’s preference. Places dedicated to açaí bowls and smoothies in Bangkok include Açaí Story The Superfood Café (www.acaistorybkk.com), MAKAI Açaí & Superfood Bar (www. facebook.com/MakaiAcaiBar), and Snooze Atlas (www.facebook.com/ snoozeatlas).

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aça%C3%AD_palm nccih.nih.gov/health/acai/ataglance.htm www.supernutrition.info/superfoods/acai-berries SEP/OCT 2019 | 65


FOOD & DRINK | feature

Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant

One of the few hotel rooftops that truly offer 360° panoramic view of Bangkok by Fha Kanch

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he rooftop restaurant of Banyan Tree Bangkok, named after Alfred Hitchcock’s classic thriller holds an outlook of Bangkok, a determined four-course set menu (B4,700 per person; B6,100 for wine pairing), and spot-on hospitality mindset. Recently renovated Vertigo & Moon Bar possess both riverscape and cityscape without being blocked by nearby edifices. In spite of the inevitable strong wind that might make one think twice before wearing short skirts, letting hair flow loose or taking a chance of precipitation, the spirit of this restaurant and bar is worth a visit. Spotting clear sky; sunset and twilight or not, lift off to Moon Bar

66 | SEP/OCT 2019

before dinner time for the Moon Walk glass balcony addition and signature cocktails such as Vertigo Sunset (B670++) and Moon Romance (B690++ only for guests in couples celebrating special occasions) that can be made non alcoholic (B470++) upon request and still maintain a full taste. Moving to a dining table in Vertigo area that almost perceives the surroundings as equally as any spot, a cold amuse bouche of shredded crab meat topped with julienne cucumber is served. Without much seasoning, it is easy to grasp the raw flavour of the ocean combined with the freshness of the garnish. Three types of warm small French bread

rolls then arrive underneath a napkin blanket alongside extra virgin olive oil already united with balsamic vinegar. Soon, the first course lands: smoked salmon with fine fat line dressed in caustic orange condiment, balanced out by mellow avocado pâté, and accompanied by petite crispy black bread drizzled with olive oil. The rich soothing chowder follows, gently drowning a pile of rotisserie chicken, potato, carrot and corn brunoise while leaving me looking forward to the upcoming dish. Leading up to the main course is a nectarous portion of blueberry palate cleanser which is more of an ice cream than a sorbet. The sea bass fillet is precisely cooked and seasoned with brittle surfaced skin and brown coloration; no detectable bones throughout. Toothsome palm potatoes, basil pea purée and asparagus slaw on the side compliment the pull-apart fish and the buttery bechamel by not overpowering the hearty main ingredient. Another option for the main course is, USDA prime beef sirloin presented with bulky hand-cut potatoes, cherry tomato au gratin, grilled asparagus and bordelaise jus. The meal concludes with playfully adorned, light and spongy Valrhona chocolate fondant plated with strong, peppery honey butter cream and cinnamon ice cream. Other highlights of the evening involve attentive and detailoriented service: a set of bread replacement when left out for too long, handbag stools availability, and digital menu on iPad due to the dimmed lighting.

Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant 61F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm, www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com


review | FOOD & DRINK

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ocated on the 54th floor of Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld is a fine dining restaurant and tapas bar, Uno Mas. Uno Mas (‘One More’ in Spanish) has become one of the most sought after fine dining destinations for all food enthusiasts in Bangkok. Diners are greeted with the famed eight-metre wine tower storing over 2,000 bottles of carefully selected wines. Stepping into the curved hallway revealed a comfortable yet elegant dining space with a breathtaking view of the city. The dining journey began with the Gambas (B690++)—large tiger prawns cooked in a sizzling olive oil with garlic, paprika and Cayenne offering wonderful savoury flavours. The Mariscos (B2,950++ to B3,200++), a Spanish paella served with creamy Bomba rice totally covered with succulent Maine lobster, Carabineros red prawns and tiger prawns. Allow 45 minutes of preparation time. And if that wasn’t enough, next came the impressive twofeet-long elevated tray of Spanish tapas (B1,990++) with a lineup of delicious choices including mushroom croquette, crystal bread, Cogollos Tudela Salmon, White Anchovies in vinegar, fried baby squid, black aioli and lemon sauce; Galician-style grilled octopus with chipotle, green mojo and black ink aioli sauce; Spanish meatballs made from Txogitxu beef and pluma pork cooked in tomato stew; deep fried Jalapeno with sea salt; Uno Mas’ very own ‘Bravas’ or potatoes, soft and crisp served with spicy tomato sauce and aioli mayonnaise; Tortilla Spanish potato; onion omelette. All this is served together with a tiger prawns Gambas. Every bite offered bursts of delightful flavours with rich and satisfying mouthfeels. To conclude this experience bangkok101.com

“One More” please

Exquisite Spanish fine dining experience in the City of Angels

by Morgan JT

in grand style, we have the crispy Cochinillo (B1,990++)—a dazzling sight of half-roasted suckling pig cooked Segovian style served with green Mojo sauce, gravy and the Thai Nam Jim Jaew perfect for 2-4 people to feast on. Diners could choose to chop the crispy suckling pig using a plate themselves or have the staff takes care of the exciting presentation which would end in the breaking of said plate. A tradition to ward off bad and evil things.

Each dish can be further enhanced with an array of suggested wines, creative mocktails and cocktails.

Uno Mas Restaurant & Tapas Bar 54 F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 99 Rama I Rd Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am www.unomasbangkok.com SEP/OCT 2019 | 67


FOOD & DRINK | review

Tenshino

A social dining experience in eccentric aesthetics by Fha Kanch

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lamboyant French-Japanese setting illustrates the distinctive food and drink execution that fuses between quality imported Asian and European produce. A box of kimono textile chopsticks was rendered for diners to pick their own pair, followed by the tangy salmon sashimi salsa amuse bouche (shuffles daily). It did not take long until the drinks arrived with sustainable paper straws. Signature Umeshu Mojito cocktail (B450; B250 for virgin) geniusly overshadows the sourness of lime juice in typical mojito with saltiness from muddled Japanese plum and conserves the refreshment of mint leaves. Kendama mocktail (B250) in a snifter glass exposes its fruit punch hue with a dash of foam and an orange wedge on the rim. A selection of premium sake from Japan can either be a la carte (B1,000 per bottle) or pairing 68 | SEP/OCT 2019

option (B899 per person). One of the proudly presented Everyday Sharing Platters (B880 net) is Five Monsieur Jean Paul Oysters from Utah beach in France. The ample-size oysters are topped with raspberry-sake ice cream flakes that reverberate the natural salinity and slick firmness of the shellfish. Sushi of the Day (B1,240) comes in five pieces imported directly from Toyosu market in Tokyo: otoro as a highlight, akami, hamachi and ikura, madai, and anago; garnished with microgreens of amaranth, mitsuba, and kiku. The sushi rice has a brown tint due to seasonal red vinegar. Black Truffle Cold Soba (B300) proves that truffles can mingle with wasabi without ruining the aromas. Seared Salmon with Matcha Sauce (B950) divulges a substantial amount of grilled fillet, cooked all the way through leaving browned appetising coloration on the outside; and a

generous satisfyingly lavish thick bed of umami matcha sauce. The fish is sandwiched by layers of fine flavoursome cucumber slices and gently caramelised leeks. Iberico Pluma (B890) from Spain defeats Kurobuta with its moist tenderness and jus, vaguely submerged in fat. It is joined by a wobbly onsen tamago and spiced non spicy Japanese chili paste. On the sweet side, charcoal Azuki-Matcha Mochi (B250) swims in milky matcha sauce and requires no dark sugar syrup. Japanese style tiramisu culminates the meal with lightly whipped cream and sugar crumbs.

Tenshino Japanese Restaurant Bangkok 2F, Pullman Bangkok King Power 8/2 Rangnam Rd Tel: 02 680 9999 Open daily: 6pm-11pm www.tenshinobangkok.com bangkok101.com


review | FOOD & DRINK

Blue Elephant Bangkok Elegant royal recipes in an atmospheric dining space in the city by Morgan JT

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e ithe r this chef nor the restaurant need lengthy introduction. Chef Nooror Somany Steppe of Blue Elephant Bangkok has been consistently presenting memorable dishes at this elegant dining space for years. The restaurant is situated conveniently next to Surasak BTS Skytrain station. This beautiful yellow-walled colonial-style home takes centre stage against the humdrum of the surrounding office buildings. The dining space is packed nightly with expats, tourists and locals flocking to savour on the famed royal recipes. “I learned so much from my childhood helping my mother in the kitchen,” Chef Nooror reminisced on her culinary journey. “For this menu, I’d like to promote the benefits of Thai herbs in food. That it doesn’t only taste great but also healthy to eat,” she added. Chef presented some of the special menus for the upcoming Eat Drink Pink event. The lineup began with a dish of surprisingly crunchy and refreshing Jerusalem Artichokes salad served with Phuket Tuna and topped with an abundance of sea grapes. The combination of herbs and spices offered sensational mouthfeels. Next, Chor Chompoo or pink bundle filled with spicy and sour Kua Kling or yellow curry made from wild almonds was another star. The dish is served in bitesized pieces offering pleasant flavours and aromas in every bite. Another bite-sized splendour was the Sago crisps with eggplant mousse and caviar, a perfect combination of texture and tastes. Then came the Southernbangkok101.com

style Peranakan curry with fresh snapper meat. The sweetness of the meat blended with the sourness in the soup made for very sensational tastes and textures. This was followed by Ayuttaya giant river prawns with black diamond garlic and red and green pepper. The delicious and sweet prawn’s meat delivered satisfying flavours while the combination of spices and black garlic complimented with a delightful aroma. Curry Mai Fun with pink noodles presented itself with a

bundle of delicate and pink rice noodles served with robust curry that blends together beautifully. The conclusion of the meal presented itself in beautiful pink rose mousse made from Carandas plum fruit and Kanom Maw Kaeng or Thai-style custard cake made from Pistachio and date palm.

Blue Elephant Bangkok 223 South Sathorn Rd Tel: 02 673 9353-8 Open: daily Monday-Sunday 11:30am2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.blueelephant.com/bangkok SEP/OCT 2019 | 69


FOOD & DRINK | review

Bawarchi

A memorable dining journey with the new tasting menu by Morgan JT

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awarchi Indian Restaurant presents a grandeur serving of the new tasting menu named ‘From the King’s Courtyard,’ created from the vision of the owner, Mr Vinay Chawla, with the aim to offer multiple dishes for all diners to enjoy. Diners are presented first with a selection of chutney including spicy pineapple, sun-dried mango, cilantro and garlic mousse before the mains. Arrived in a large golden platter with the aromatic biryani rice taking the centre stage, five different curries in smaller bowls is served with a small order of

70 | SEP/OCT 2019

dessert tucked on one side of the platter. We first feasted on the wonderful Tandoori Jhinga— succulent King prawns prepared by steeping in roasted mustard seeds and caraway then grilled in the tandoor and served with spicy and sour pineapple-chilli chutney. The Tandoori Chaap— marinated spring lamb chops in fenugreek with mustard oil infused yogurt cooked over hot coal is definitely a must-have for mutton fans. The Bawarchi Murgh Malai Kebab, a serving of chicken meat in cream cheese, cardamom and

black salt, was very aromatic and delectable. The Murgh Makhanwala or a serving of grilled chicken simmered in lusciously smooth tomato gravy enriched with cashew and finished with piquant dried fenugreek. Followed by the beautifully cooked Salmon Tikka Masala, the Norwegian Salmon fillets are grilled then served in tomato, fenugreek and onion sauce that offered delightful textures and flavours in every bite. Next was a signature dish from Kashmir, Rogan Josh. A serving of tender lamb cooked in fennel, ginger, garlic and chillies offered an array of pleasing sensation with the precisely cooked lamb meat. The last savoury dish was Bawarchi Dal Makhani, a delectable combination of black lentils and tomatoes simmered overnight on charcoal and served with a touch of butter was a lovely conclusion to the lineup. The platter is accompanied by a basket of assorted bread. Finally we reached the Rasmalai or Mung Daal Halwa dessert that was very refreshing and sweet, a perfect conclusion to the absolutely delightful meal. ‘From the King’s Courtyard’ tasting menu is priced at B1,100 per platter. The vegetarian counterpart for this platter is the ‘From the Queen’s Court’ tasting menu priced at B900.

Bawarchi Indian Restaurant InterContinental Bangkok Hotel 973 Ploen Chit Rd Tel. 02 656 0102 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.bawarchiindian.com bangkok101.com


Distributed by GLOBAL FOOD PRODUCTS CO LTD www.globalfoodproduct.com Tel: 02 6831751


FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. w w w.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread with Chef Miro Mattalia

Staying true to the roots where food is served family-recipe style Interview by Morgan JT

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ppia Bangkok recently reopened its doors after the renovation with a refreshed look and atmosphere while also welcoming a new Executive Chef Miro Mattalia to its kitchen. The restaurant’s new look boasts warmth and family atmosphere with wooden decor and spacious table arrangements. There is a small cold cuts table on one side. A flight of stairs leading up to the wine cellar which houses numerous and choicest

72 | SEP/OCT 2019

conventional and selected natural wines on offer next to a private room. The previous bar area at the end has been turned into a welcoming seating area in front of an open kitchen. “We want to bring new things, new talent and new aspects to the restaurant and our food while keeping to the original theme,” Chef-owner Paulo Vitaletti said when asked about the renovation. “We keep the Roman roots but with different approach.

Sometimes more refined, sometimes not, so we can have different textures and dishes and styles but never forgetting the roots of the products we are working with,” he added. Talking to Chef Miro about how he met Chef Paolo, he said: “I was working at Consorzio Restaurant when I met him [Chef Paolo] through a mutual friend. He came to eat at the restaurant. He was there for lunch and dinner for three days straight, I think he must’ve tried the whole menu. bangkok101.com


breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

“We stayed in touch and a couple of years later I told him I’d like to come and work in Bangkok and if he knows any restaurants looking for a chef, I’d be interested. And here I am,” he mused. Chef Miro has accumulated over 15 years experience working in multi-Michelin-starred kitchens throughout Europe working in renowned restaurants like Le Calandre and Banco Vini e Alimenti in Italy, El Raco de Can Fabes, Spain and as Chef a la Table at Lausanne Palace & Spa, Switzerland. When discussing what he will bring to the menu at Appia, Chef Miro says: “I try to stick to the Roman cuisine roots while offering something new... I started from the traditional recipe and try to change the texture and the presentation while still offer the familiar tastes that people enjoy.” The first dish began with a rather intriguing Ravioli Crudi (B890) , a raw ‘ravioli’ made using Mazara prawns with stracciatella bangkok101.com

cheese wrapped inside, sprinkled with chive-infused olive oil served with shrimp heads. The raw and briney flavours from the shrimp brought the deep blue sea to mind while mixing with the soft texture of cheese made for an interesting yet satisfying mouthfeel. The Inside-out Amatriciana (B450) is a reimagined dish comprises of crispy fried pasta Amatriciana served with onion and crispy guanciale, tomatoes and pecorino foam. The rich texture and creamy consistency pairs perfectly with houserecommended Kindeli Blanco 2018 from New Zealand. Next up was the savoury Crispy Pig’s Head (B390) precisely cooked and deliciously served with mustard sorbet, coffee and misticanza salad. A big hit has to be the Porchetta, Like in Rome (B450 for one B700 to share)—absolutely savoury and moist boneless pork slow roasted overnight. It is still heavy with salty flavours but definitely wholesome when served together with the apple sauce.

Another interesting choice is the Cheeky Cannelloni (B590)—a serving of perfectly cooked pork cheek meat rolled together with house-made foie gras sauce topped with delectable Parmesan fondue and the aromatic black truffle which made for a great closure for the savoury dishes. Concluding the meal with a serving of Olive oil sponge cake (B290), refreshing bites of soft sponge cake made from a combination of sour passionfruit and olive oil was served with mint, yogurt and fast-melting basil sorbet that Chef Miro urged us to try first. Followed closely by a musthave chef Paolo’s Mother’s Tiramisu (B350), its texture, sweetness and bitterness combined for a calm and soothing sensation; a perfect ending for a fulfilling meal.

Appia 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31 Tel. 02 261 2056 Open: Tues-Sun 6:30am-10:30pm www.Appia-bangkok.com SEP/OCT 2019 | 73


FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

All-You-Can-Eat Dim Sum at China Table Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok, 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 | www.radissonhotels.com Along with Dim Sum morsels, China Table’s all-you-can-eat menu includes main course, soup and dessert per person. Highlights are steamed pork ribs in black bean sauce, steamed scallop dumpling, deep-fried crab meat with white onion and cream cheese and more. Vegetarian Dim Sum choices are also available. Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm at B700 net; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3:30pm at B800 net. For information and reservation, call 02 302 3333 or email chinatable.bangkok.blu@radisson.com

A Selection of Themed Buffets at River Barge Restaurant Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok, 28 Charoenkrung Soi 70 Tel: 02 307 8888 | www.chatrium.com/chatrium/riversidebangkok The kitchen team creates an assortment of Chef’s signature specials to produce themed buffets in Bangkok every day of the week. Diners can expect homemade artisanal delicacies, premium imported meats, local and international favourites from both Thailand and around the world, the freshest seafood and a range of desserts in addition to river views. For more information or reservations, call 02 307 8888, visit www. chatrium.com or email riverbarge.chrb@chatrium.com

Get One Whole Canadian Lobster at Bistro M Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park, 90 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Tel: 02 302 5555 | www.marriott.com Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park presents one of the most premium seafood dinner buffets, offering an extensive variety of all-youcan-eat seafood dishes along with free-flow local draught and soft drinks at only B1,500 net per person every Friday 6:30pm-10pm. Tiger Prawn, Rock Lobster, Blue Crab, Mud Crab, etc. are on the lines; get one free whole Canadian lobster when reserving the seat for at least three days in advance. Book now at 02 302 5555.

Red Sky Goes Crazy For Truffles Centara Grand at CentralWorld, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd Tel: 02100 1234 | www.centarahotelsresorts.com A series of new a la carte dishes, 11:30am-1am until 31 October 2019 – features an abundance of French Summer truffles. Marinated Hokkaido Scallops with Truffle (10g) and Baby Romaine (B655++), Grain-Fed Beef Carpaccio with Chopped truffle (10g) and Pine Nuts (B955++), Corn Soup and Truffle Carpaccio with Crème Fraîche (B555++) and more. Add truffles to any a la carte dish starting at B300++ (5g). For reservations or more information, call 02 100 6255 or email diningcgcw@chr.co.th

Seafood Weekend BBQ at Latest Recipe Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14 Bangna-Trad Rd, Km 10.5 Tel: 02 118 7777 | www.marriott.com Every Friday and Saturday are buffet and barbecue evenings featuring exclusive seafood, meat cuts and barbecue specials from the charcoal grill plus the return of foie gras. A variety of seafood on ice, salads, cold cuts, and cheese are on offer with Asian and Western dishes cooked live as well as desserts. Priced at B1,490 net per person including free flow soft drinks, coffee or tea 6pm-10pm. Enjoy 20% when purchase online at bit.ly/LMOnline-Deals. Call 02 118 7777 or email reservations.lmsb@lemeridien.com 74 | SEP/OCT 2019

bangkok101.com


FOOD & DRINK | listings

chinese

à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. Bai Yun 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest Park, 952 Rama 4 Rd. representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat on the planet, offers high-quality 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun 11am-2:30pm ingredients you can really savour. www.crowneplaza.com 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm

french

China Table

A stylish Chinese restaurant with a tempting choice of signature dishes and one of the best dim sum lunch in Bangkok. 3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am3:30pm www.radissonblu.com/plazahotelbangkok

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. It’s well worth a visit. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm www.marriott.com

Xin Tian Di

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches and 76 | SEP/OCT 2019

La Vie

La Vie

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm; Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. GF, Marriott Mayfair Hotel 60 Soi Langsuan Tel: 02 672 12 30 Open daily: 11:30am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

german Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this two Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste elsewhere. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5:30pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30pm-12:30am (last order) www.restaurantsuhring.com

international

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm, closed every Tue www.jaime-bangkok.com

Le Boeuf

The concept here is simple: highquality steak, liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy

CHAR Restaurant

CHAR Restaurant

A stunning dining space, offering modern grill cuisine with remarkable flavours. A simply elegant venue, CHAR Private lets you dine in utmost privacy and style. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is bangkok101.com


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FOOD & DRINK | listings

Elements

Residences, this beautiful restaurant has an outstanding setting and prepares wonderfully fresh plates with a slight Oriental leaning. Choose from the likes of Chilli Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef Massaman, Scallops and Abalone Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a plethora of traditional favourites to tempt every palate for every occasion. 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Bangkok 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 079 7000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.137pillarsbangkok.com/en/dining/ nimitr

Elements

Ocken

consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steaks in town. Soi Pipat 2, Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

This Michelin-starred restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French culinary aesthetics, flavours and precision, in a retro-futuristic space that feels like a home study but has the theatricality of a playhouse. 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com

Latest Recipe

A new upscale brunch offering from the signature restaurant in the Le Méridien offers a delicious and indulgent approach to wining and dining. The Medittarean-inpsired “La Docle Vita” Lifestyle Buffet offers an eclectic mix of cuisines across various stations, with fresh seafood, made-to-order pasta, free-flow wine and champagne. 1F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5, Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30am-10:30am, 5:30pm11pm (a la carte); Mon-Sat 12pm2:30pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-9:30pm; Sun 12pm-4pm www.latestrecipebangkok.com

Nimitr

“Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a responsible gourmand chef on situated on the 27th floor of the luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & 78 | SEP/OCT 2019

Offering dishes inspired by memories and experiences of travels and cultures from near and afar to be shared by people who love to eat, Ocken explores creative techniques, bold flavour combinations, and cooking with no boundaries. The cuisine is known for its free-spirited nature which changes periodically according to what the team feels like eating. 1F, Bhiraj Tower at Sathon South Sathon Rd. Tel: 082 091 6174 Open: Sat-Sun 10:30am-2:30pm; TueSun 6pm-12am www.ockenbkk.com

Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sun 11:30am-3:30pm www.bangkok.park.hyatt.com

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all others— delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, 12pm2:30pm, 12pm-10:30pm; Sun 12pm-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant Park Society

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this highaltitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd.

Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two. 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun 1pm-1am www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com


listings | FOOD & DRINK

Upstairs at Mikkeller

The second-floor, six table restaurant is simple but effective with an open kitchen and Michelinstar food sure to wow guests. Expect to be spoiled with a rousing and wide-ranging tasting menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Thu-Sat 6:30pm-10:30pm www.upstairs-restaurant.com

139/3 Sathon Soi 7 Tel: 02 286 8805 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm11pm www.ilbolognesebangkok.com

steak & burger The Steakhouse Co.

italian

Medinii

Attico

Medinii

Award winning Attico Restaurant serves 100% authentic Italian cuisine, Whilst sharing the skyline views from the terrace areas. 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.facebook.com/atticoitalianrestaurant

Favola

Specialising in the robust and rustic flavours of Italy, Favola is the favoured destination for cosy, romantic dinners. A homey, provincial dining room is decorated in vivid green and rich brown wood with ambient backlighting. Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd, Samut Prakan Tel: 02 118 7722 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi

this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am www.unomasbangkok.com

The Italian inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. A hidden standout fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavours. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft drink. Easily accessed by Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT. 35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm,

6pm-12am www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii. php

japanese

A new city steak restaurant, located on the vibrant Patpong Soi 2, serves up delectable cuts from Australia, the US, and Argentina. At the stove is Chef Moo, who has extensive experience across many city hotels, and takes great pride in the ageing, marbling, and hanging two of the carefully selected beef produce. A well-stocked bar with an impressive wine list and local craft beers, ensures guests find the perfect tipple to accompany their bovine. The Steakhouse Co., 9/8 Patpong 2 Rd. Tel: 06 109 Steak (78325) Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-12am; Sun 12pm-12am www.thesteakhouseco.com

thai

Kisso

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok Heightz Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Bangkok Heightz Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm A rooftop sky bar with an authentic www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Il Bolognese Trattoria & Pizzeria Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed Il Bolognese Trattoria & from the restaurant’s open air-deck. Pizzeria Uno Mas 39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok Ristorante Il Bolognese brings to With its expansive menu of 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Bangko the soulful cuisine and authentic Spanish specialties, convivial spirit of the city of Bologna. coupled with spectacular city views, Tel: 02 686 7000

spanish

bangkok101.com

SEP/OCT 2019 | 79


FOOD & DRINK | listings Open daily: untill 12am www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

Open daily: 7pm-10pm www.ledubkk.com

Bo.lan

Authentic, but daring, this is one of the top Thai restaurants in all of Asia. With a modus operandi of “essential Thai, delivered with panache,” it’s easy to see why this Michelin-starred restaurant remains so popular year after year. 24 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Tel: 02 260 2962 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-10:30pm; Sat-Sun 12pm-2:30pm www.bolan.co.th

Market Café

Market Café

Blue Elephant

Inspired by Ayutthaya era’s traditional markets is the all-new Market Café. With a menu that stays true to Thai flavours, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes with bold spices and vibrant flavours crafted by chefs who are well-versed in local cuisine. 4F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily: 6am-10am, 10:30am-10pm www.facebook.com/pg/MarketCafeBKK

Blue Elephant

Ruen Urai

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous Thai historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive Frenchinfluenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Tel: 092 919 9969 80 | SEP/OCT 2019

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest, freshest ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: 12pm-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Mandarin Oriental where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts every night at 7:45pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with closed-in shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm10:30pm www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a menu-less-travelled. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am www.kempinski.com/bangkok

café

Saffron

Award-winning contemporary Thai cuisine. Spoil yourself in the best of Thai signature dishes, which include seared Tasmanian salmon with crispy pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing, banana blossom salad with perfectly grilled and marinated prawns served with a coconut dressing and fried banana flowers. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com/bangkok

Brunch & Baked

Brunch & Baked

A small classic bakery and cafe in Old Town Bangkok serving breakfast and brunch. Highlights here are their freshly baked pastries and cakes, which are made of generous, quality ingredient–and not overwhelmingly sweet. 120 Mahannop Rd. Tel: 063 094 4494 facebook.com/brunchandbaked bangkok101.com


listings | FOOD & DRINK

The Chocolate Boutique

With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF, Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Dean & Deluca

This New York based brand cleaves to its highbred beginnings with an approachable composite of American comfort food, spiced to local levels with the aid of local ingredients. 2F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5956 GF, EmQuartier, Tel: 02 261 0464 1F, Park Ventures Ecoplex Building, 57 Wireless Rd., Tel: 02 108 2200 1F, Sathorn Square, Tel: 02 108 1208 GF, The Crystal, Tel: 02 061 2846 bangkok101.com

1F, All Seasons Place, Tel: 085 669 1226 1F, FYI Center, Tel: 098 562 4692 www.deandeluca.com/thailand

Kay’s Boutique Breakfast

Kay’s is dedicated to making your breakfast, the most important meal, full of joy and excitement. Serving both gourmet breakfast buffet line and à la carte at a reasonable price, the food is cooked fresh from the griddle right in front of you. Scrumptious morning treats are sure to satisfy your sweet tooth. Morning drinks are designed to be a great booster for the rest of your day. 6F, 1031 Phloen Chit Rd. Tel: 02 245 1953 Open daily: 10am-10pm 116/55-57 Soi Rang Nam Open daily: 6:30am-4pm; Tue 6:30am12pm www.kaysbangkok.com

Sift Bakery

Furnished with large floor-to-ceiling

windows, and a counter displaying an assortment of desserts and pastries, diners at this café can enjoy their orders in a spacious upstairs and downstairs seating area. GF, Amaranta Hotel, Pracharatbumpen Soi 7 Open: Wed-Mon, 11am-10pm Tel: 02 691 1688 www.amarantahotel.com

vegetarian Broccoli Revolution

This vegan-friendly restaurant features a menu full of bright vegetarian bites which could pull in even the most stubborn carnivore. Now with two locations. 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 662 5001 Open daily: Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm 6F, Central Embassy, Tel: 02 160 5788 www.broccolirevolution.com SEP/OCT 2019 | 81


Cosmopolitan, Red Sky, Centara Grand at CentralWorld


NIGHTLIFE Weaving through Bangkok traffic, we are exploring one of the busiest strips of the city to bring the best and most exciting perks in town.

Zest Pop Event Enjoy unlimited free-flow sparkling and cocktails paired with mouth-watering dishes at Westin Grande Sukhumvit from the visiting chef from Westin Brisbane, Australia. Available once a month, 7-9pm, priced at B600++ per person. For reservations, contact 02 207 8000 or fb.bangkok@westin.com www.facebook.com/WestinBangkok

Sunset Happy Hour Soak in the beautiful sunset 26-storey above the streets of Bangkok while indulging in free-flow wines and beers to your hearts’ delight at CHAR Restaurant & Rooftop Bar. Available daily, 5-7pm, priced at B799++ per person. For reservations, contact 02 207 4999 or CHARbangkok@ihg.com www.CHARbangkok.com

CHAR Moon+Wine series Originally created to follow a holistic and spiritual approach to experience wines, we are serving biodynamic wines inspired by six key days of the year. Only available on special dates: Sat, 14 September; Thu, 17 October; and Tue, 12 November at CHAR Restaurant & Rooftop Bar. The set menu is priced at B3,800++ per person. For reservations, contact 02 207 4999 or CHARbangkok@ihg.com www.CHARbangkok.com


CHAR Restaurant and Rooftop Bar Unwind over the beautiful Bangkok skyline

Or immerse in the biodynamic wine list inspired by six key days of the year, following a holistic and spiritual approach, at CHAR Moon + Wine series. The selected wines, which are fruit, flower, leaf and root, are farmed during the specific moon phases according to HAR Restaurant & of Bangkok skyline, great dining the constellations. Rooftop Bar is a beautiful and drinking options. This offer is only available on destination to dine and Guests can sink into special dates, which are Saturday, unwind on the 25th and 26th floor comfortable seats while unwinding 14 September; Thursday, 17 of Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless with the free flow promotion for October; and Tuesday, 12 Road. wines and beers in the sunset with November. Situated high above the the Sunset Happy Hour promotion The promotion is priced at bustling streets of Bangkok, both available only at the CHAR Rooftop B3,400++ per person, the seasonal the restaurant and rooftop bar Bar daily 5-7pm for only B799++ seven-course menu is paired with boasting gorgeous panoramic view per person. biodynamic wines.

C

CHAR Bangkok, 25th & 26th floor Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Rd | 81 Wireless Road, Lumpini, Pathumwan, Bangkok 10330 T: +66 (0) 2 207 4999 | E: CHARbangkok@ihg.com | Open daily: 6pm-12am CHARbangkok.com


review | NIGHTLIFE

Zest Bar & Terrace Delectable delights from Down Under by Morgan JT

E

xiting from the elevator on the 7th floor of Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, one is greeted with a vibrant and welcoming Zest Bar & Terrace. The chic bar is furnished in a warm and soothing tone. The atmospheric lighting makes it seem more of a gathering destination for friends and colleagues after a long day’s work than a hotel bar located on one of the busiest strips in Bangkok. Guests can also enjoy the City of Angel’s beautiful night view from the wraparound terrace with cosy seats overlooking the busy neighbourhood on Sukhumvit Road. bangkok101.com

aioli. Finally, the savoury and precisely made roasted lamb meat. The meat is juicy with every bite before served with a native mint macadamia-herb crust that made up for very satisfying sensation. The special promotion is available between 7-9pm, priced only at B600++ per person. The August’s Delights From Always focusing on offering Down Under package also comes the best options for food, cocktails with the choicest free-flow beer, or mocktails through selective and sparkling, red and white wine and high quality ingredients, the Zest cocktails that will perfectly pair Bar & Terrace offers a splendid with the mouth-watering menus opportunity for guests to enjoy created by the guest chef from additional fabulous Aussie-inspired Australia. dishes from the visiting guest chef from Westin Brisbane, Chef Steve The New Zest Bar & Terrace Sweetman. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit The lineup includes the palate 259 Sukhumvit Rd stimulant like beetroot cured Tel: 02 207 8000 Salmon tartare hummus served Open daily: 7pm-1am, Live music 6pmwith dashes of micro herbs. The 11:30pm refreshing and aromatic Morton Bay Bug Skewers, perfectly cooked www.westin-grande-sukhumvit. bangkokshotels.com/en then served with sweet and sour www.facebook.com/WestinBangkok mango salad and lemon myrtle SEP/OCT 2019 | 85


NIGHTLIFE | listings

bar Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: Breakfast 6am-10:30am, Lunch & Dinner 11:30am-12am, Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3pm www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Bamboo Chic Bar

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok, 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily 5:30pm-11:30pm www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Bar@494

Bar@494

A cosy place with an extensive selection of international wines. Chic décor, ambient lighting, and an excellent selection of food and wine make this vibrant bar one of Bangkok’s most popular evening venues in downtown area. Come to enjoy world-class cocktails and take advantage of daily Happy Hours and unbeatable value with a wine buffet. 86 | SEP/OCT 2019

Grand Hyatt Erawan 494 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.hyatt.com

The Bar

The Bar

Featuring black and gold colour theme with both indoor and outdoor seatings, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 3pm-12am www.hyatt.com

Beer Belly

Beer Belly takes over the large space on the right-hand side of 72 Courtyard’s ground floor and offers 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo (B180/pint) and Asahi (B260/pint) to La Chouffe (B420/pint) and L’Olmaia LA5 (B480/pint). Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan (B180) and Phuket Beer (B180) are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons (B140) and barbecue ribs (B320). While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, darts, pool, ping pong and even a beer pong table; head outside for bar seating and tables when the weather's nice. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7770 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.72courtyard.com/brands/beer-belly

The Diplomat Bar

Drop by any night and you’re likely to

find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8:30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9244 Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am (happy hour 5pm-8pm, live entertainment Mon-Thu 8:30pm-12:30am), Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.facebook.com/ diplomatbarconradbangkok

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a wellpolished space manned by new-intown bartender, Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 098 969 1335 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.rabbitholebkk.com bangkok101.com


listings | NIGHTLIFE

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list as well as a long list of creative cocktails— many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Hotel Bangkok G 188 Si Lom Rd. Tel: 096 860 7990 Open daily: Mon-Fri 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

Wine Connection The Grill

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch sets itself apart focusing on grilled meats— especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced vinos (available mainly by the bottle, but with some “by the glass” options as well). 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld Tel: 02 613 1037 Open daily: 11am-12am www.wineconnection.co.th

rooftop sky bar

latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F, 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.longtablebangkok.com CHAR Rooftop Bar

CHAR Rooftop Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.hotelindigo.com/bangkok

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar

Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 4726 Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-12am www.facebook.com/characterbar

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece Aire Bar bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it Aire Bar doesn’t get any better than this. Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 1234 views of the city (day and night). A Open daily: 5pm-1am laid-back bar perfect for unwinding www.champagnecru.com with a cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Sukhumvit Bangkok 22/5, Sukhumvit Soi 24 Long Table Tel: 02 055 1234 Although known for its massive Open daily: 5pm-1am communal dining table, you can www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok also glug signature cocktails or new bangkok101.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar Whether you choose the outdoor lounge on the 45th floor or the alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 11:30pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com SEP/OCT 2019 | 87


NIGHTLIFE | listings

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s night time drink menu, featuring expertly skyline in an outdoor garden lounge crafted cocktails and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer setting. Choose anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok and expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 7am-1am Open Sun-Wed: 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat www.westingrandesukhumvit.com 5:30pm-2am bangkok.park.hyatt.com

club Beam

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Enjoy the vibrant social scene and breathtaking views at the newest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Spread over the top three floors, the bar features spacious indoor loungers, an outdoor terrace and perfect unwinding spots with a wide selection of premium tapas, crafted cocktails and DJs entertainment every night. 30F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar

Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya river, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails made by champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok, 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www3.hilton.com 88 | SEP/OCT 2019

An honest club with a communal vibe plus great music and one of the best sound systems where the floor moves to the beat of the music. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late www.beamclub.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 9pm-late www.mixx-discotheque.com/bangkok

pubs The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit 15

Tel: 02 309 3255 Open daily: 10am-1am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsmanpub

live music

Bamboo Bar

Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave (riverfront) Tel: 02 659 9000 ext. 7690-1 Open daily: Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. Underground of Hotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:302am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am www.maggiechoos.com bangkok101.com


Song Wat Road


getting there | MAP

Rail

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit SKYTRAIN (BTS) (MRT) is another fast and reliable The Bangkok Transit System, or way to get across town. The BTS, is an elevated train network 18-station line stretches 20km covering the major commercial from Hualamphong (near the areas. Trains run every few minutes central railway station) up to from 6am to midnight, making it a Bang Sue in the north. Subways quick and reliable transport option, run from 6am to midnight daily, especially during heavy traffic with trains arriving every 5-7 hours. Fares range from B16 to B59, minutes. The underground however tourist passes allowing connects with the BTS at MRT unlimited daily travel (B140) as well Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT as trip packages. However, they do Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT not provide any free shuttle bus Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit that transits passengers to and from stations. Subway fares range stations or nearby areas. from about B16 to B42. www.bts.co.th www.bangkokmetro.co.th

River CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats

tend to be frequent. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats

Road BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B8 and B12-20. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should always be negotiated MOTORCYCLE TAXI beforehand. In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, TAXI motorcycle taxis are the fastest, Bangkok has thousands of albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable metered, air-con taxis available by their colourful vests, motorbike 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the bangkok101.com

Airport Rail Link A monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with stops in downtown Bangkok and in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line was closed in 2015. There are eight stations in total including Suvarnabhumi (A1), Lat Krabang (A2), Ban Thap Chang (A3), Hua Mak (A4), Ramkamhaeng (A5), Makkasan (A6), Ratchaprarop (A7), and Phaya Thai (A8). www.srtet.co.th

ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares starting from B15 depending on the distance, tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 7pm.

first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. SEP/OCT 2019 | 91


MAP | greater bangkok Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Chiang Mai

SING BURI

Kanchanaburi

THAILAND

ANG THONG

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

SARABURI

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ubon

Bangkok Pattaya Koh Samet Koh Chang

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

CAMBODIA

Andaman Sea

AYUTTHAYA

NAKHON NAYOK

Koh Samui

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

Phuket

PATHUM THANI NAKHON PATHOM

LAOS Udon Thani

Lop Buri

SUPHAN BURI

KANCHANABURI

MYANMAR

PRACHIN BURI

3

h

2

MALAYSIA

SA KAEO

BANGKOK

c b

1

RATCHABURI

2

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT PRAKAN

SAMUT SAKHON g

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CAMBODIA CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang Pattaya

PHETCHABURI

RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Trat Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut

N

Sightseeing

Floating Markets

Night Bazaar

1 Damnoen Saduak 1 Asiatique The Riverfront Bang Krachao 2 Amphawa 2 Rot Fai Market, b Samphran Riverside 3 Talin Chan c Samphran Elephant Srinakarin 4 Khlong Lat Mayom 3 Rot Fai Market, Ground & Zoo d 5 Bang Nam Pheung Ratchada Ancient Siam 4 Chang Chui Bangkok (Muang Boran) e Safari World Plane Market Museums f Rama IX Royal Park 1 Erawan Museum 5 Patpong g Mahachai Market 2 House of Museums h Phra Pathommachedi 3 Thai Film Museum i Koh Kret Pottery Village 4 Museum of Counterfeit j Rangsit Science Center Goods k Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo a

20 KM 20 miles

Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

92 | SEP/OCT 2019

bangkok101.com


greater bangkok & the chao phraya | MAP

F

Tanya Tanee j

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret i

Sai Mai

F

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

F

F

Rajpruek

The Legacy

F

Bang Khen

F

Northpark

e

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

F

Thanont

MUENG NONTHABURI

F

Chatuchak

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao Bueng Kum

Bang Sue

Khan na Yao

Chatuchak

4

Bang Phlat

Navatanee

Phayathai

Dusit

3

Mini Buri

F

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Wang Thong lang

Din-Daeng

Taling Chan

4

Huai Khwang

3

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

F

Bangkok Yai 5 *

Thon Buri

Watthana

Lumpini

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Bang Wa

F

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang Khlong Toei

Sathorn Prawet

1

Chom Thong

60 th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Pathumwan Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

4

Yan Nawa 4

Bang Bon

Phra Khanong

a

2

f

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Phra Pradaeng

Rat Burana

Bang Na 5

F

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

F

1

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

F

Green Valley

k

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

d

F

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

SEP/OCT 2019 | 93


MAP | sukhumvit road

Phra Ram 9

a IX

Ram

Rd

Royal

m9 Prara ital Hosp

City

Ave

RCA ange R ing

Driv

Din

Da

en

gR

het 7

ng P

phae

kam

Phet

d

Rd

Uthai

Ital Thai Expy

(Toll

r

Makkasan

b tcha

Phe

tate

S 2nd

oad)

8/1

uri 3

Phetchaburi

h

k Su

het 7

Prasanmit

ng P

phae

kam

oi it S mw 49 /1

3

8

Soi

IN

Prasa

g

on

Ph

2

t Soi 2

i2

So

20

Benjasiri Park

9

vit 6

nE

i1

So

oh a an iN

So i

Ta

ay

ssw re

Son

xp

Ton

1

Benjakiti Park

5

N

Hotels

Conrad Bangkok 2 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 3 Seven Hotel 4 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 5 Rembrandt Hotel & Suites Bangkok 6 Four Points by Sheraton 7 Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 1

300 m 1328 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway

94 | SEP/OCT 2019

Galleria 10 Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Marriott Executive Apartments 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 8 9

Le Fenix Sukhumvit 5 6 Radisson Suites Bangkok 7 Sukhumvit 8 Arts & Culture 1 Japan Foundation 9 2 Attic Studios 10 3 WTF Gallery and Café 4 The Pikture Gallery Art Workshop & Framing 14

15

RMA Institute Sombat Permpoon Gallery Art Gallery G23 Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.A.C.) Yellow Korner Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

bangkok101.com

Sukhumv

vit

oi

um

k Na

Soi

d

an R

g Su

Lau

11

Soi 35

33

1

oi 3

it S

um

mv

8

k

kh

Su

Su

ha

i1

12

So

oi

vit

it S

um

kh

khu

kh

mv

iP

rm

5

Phrom

Su

Su

Su

khu

Su

8

9

Asok

um

10

Sukhumvit

umvi

Sukh

Sukh

vit S

3

hum

29

2 13 14

So

ale

Rd

Ch

udi

mR

vit Soi 10

Sukhum

6

i2

oi 8

So

i4

t Soi

So

vit

Rua

vit S

hum

Suk

vit

um

umvi

um

kh

Sukh

Su

27

t Soi

23

t Soi

umvi

Suk

Sukh

oy

wb

Co

Soi

Soi

vit

2

umvi

hum

Sukhumvit 12

Sukh

Suk

7

1

19

5

oi 1

10

Soi

vit S

vit

hum

hum

6

Suk

3

13

oi 1

oi 1

vit S

vit S

hum

Suk

Suk

hum

1

Nana

oi 1

oi 3

oi 7

vit S

hum

Suk

Suk

vit S

t Sin

hum

Loe

vit S kh

Su

Soi

Khit

Lom

12

m

d

ri R 6

oi 1

7

hro

atdi

ont

a

1

8

Suk

Soi

hum

vit S

et

SE

iP

Saw

1

4

4

So

Soi

nmit

kM

n ttha

23 21

PK Suk

hum

Lo Nai

Som

Phloen Chit

Aso

Wa

n

Cha

hai

ng

Sea

mC

Soi

Soi

15

7 3

Suk

Soi

u Rd

hay Witt Soi

Chit

Chit Lom

27 14

6

26

it

Rur

25 22

a Nue

Witthayu

Soi

28

a Nan

Nana

ad rungr Bam ital Hosp

n Ch

Mit

Rd Soi

P

e Phlo

hu

uri

ab

tch he

tral Cen Lom Chit

hop

Soi P

7

chat Bura akon iy Cha ital Hosp

5

in Eye Rutn ital Hosp

9 Soi 3

o Nikh

k Su

Asok

Soi 41

n Rd

kasa

ak mM


sukhumvit road | MAP

d

uri R

Thong Lo

Ekkamai

22

19

ai Ekkam

Lo 23

2 my

on

oi uan N Soi N ai Ekkam

25

an o iB

ng myo B an o

ai 21

Ekkam

Thong

P ri d i

kamai Soi Ek

ong Lo Soi Th

24

Camillian Hospital

Thong Lo

5

g4

yon

nom

i Ba

Prid

i 28 Ekkama

6

g4

Prid

g4

yon

nom

i Ba

Ekkamai 23

Prid

chab

Phet

Pr

20

ng

yo

om

an

B idi

41

ng

yo

om

an

iB

Prid

37

hu

k Su

19

i So

it So umw Sukh

it mw

Ekkamai

18

49

k Su

mai Ekka

16

hu 49

i 49/6

oi it S mw

20 mai Ekka

5

14

/1 3

2

17

3

Lo 1

10

18

Thong

ai Ekkam

Lo 10

ai Ekkam

5

mv 1

ong Lo

5

JO

i6

ma

ka Ek

So

it

it 7

1

g

on

Ph

ang

m

hro

Soi Kl

iP

So

kamai Soi Ek

i ama Ekk

Soi Th

o9

ng L

Tho

i4

ma

ka Ek

i

Soi

ad

di M

i Pa

M rom

Ph

i 10

ama

Ekk

j itive Sam mvit u Sukh spital Ho

Soi

12

hu Suk

g Thon

ut

hab

Sett

5

i6

Suk hum vit Soi

16 The ChindAsia Club 17 The Iron Fairies 18 Fat Gut'z 19 Shades of Retro 20 diVino 21 W XYZ Bar 22 Marshmallow 23 Oskar Bistro 24 TUBA Design Furniture & Restaurant 25 Apoteka

42

Long Table Diplomat Bar 13 The Living Room 14 Barsu 15 WTF Gallery and Café 11

12

So

63

bangkok101.com

Nightlife

vit

Soi

0

Glow Club 2 Demo 3 Levels Club 4 8 on Eleven 5 Beam 6 Narz Club 1

Hanrahans 8 The Pickled Liver 9 Robin Hood 10 The Royal Oak 7

um

vit

1

oi 4

it S

8

i3

So

mv

vit

hu

um

Clubs

Pubs

t umvi Sukh spital Ho

Suk

kh

Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 The Emporium 4 EmQuartier 1

Ekkamai

Phra Khanong

9

Malls

kh

hum

i6

So

Sukhumvit

Su

i 36

S

Thong Lo

vit So

So

Sukhum

Soi 28

vit

um ukh

i 34

BN

Su

Suk

vit

59

5

i5

Soi

So

11

um

vit

vit

kh

Su

hum

um

1

Sukhumvit

PH

Soi 26

Soi 24

Sukhumvit

ES

Sukhumvit

3

Benjasiri Park

Suk

kh

53

oi 5

it S

mv

Su

t Soi

hu

7

oi 4

15

EG

umvi

9

it S

mv

3

4

Suk

Soi 4

hu

16

Sukh

umvit

Sukh

ukda

39

Phrom Phong

Suk

t Soi

eng M

umvi

Soi 35

4

Soi Sa

Sukh

Sukhumvit

9

Water Library Brasserie at Central Embassy 27 Nest 28 Above Eleven

26

Embassies

India Philippines ES Spain SE Sweden PK Pakistan JO Jordan BN Brunei Darussalam IN

PH

SEP/OCT 2019 | 95


MAP | siam/chit lom

Soi 29

Soi 3 5

Soi Sukhumvit 1

QA

Soi Lang Suan 1

Soi 4

Rd

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

US

Soi 4

US

Soi 5 Soi 5

Sarasin

Soi 6

Chulalongkorn University Area

N

Hotels

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square 3 Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate Bangkok 6 Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 8 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 9 The St. Regis Bangkok 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Conrad Bangkok 13 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 14 Hotel Muse 15 The Okura Prestige Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

96 | SEP/OCT 2019

Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Rd Lumphini Park

d 16 Centara Watergate Siam Ocean World 10 Erawan Plaza e 11 The Peninsula Pavillion Ganesha and 17 Mayfair, Bangkok Trimurti Shrine Plaza 12 Amarin Plaza Marriott Executive f Erawan Shrine g Apartments Phra Indra Shrine 13 Central Chidlom 18 Hotel Indigo 14 All Seasons Place 15 Central Embassy Bangkok Nightlife 19 The Athenee 1 Hard Rock Cafe 2 Red Sky Bar Hotel, a Luxury Shopping 3 Balcony Humidor 16 Siam Square Collection Hotel 20 Oriental Residence 17 Pratunam Market & Cigar Bar 4 Café Trio 19 Siam Square One Bangkok 5 Hyde&Seek

Arts & Culture

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 2 100 Tonson Gallery 1

Malls

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza Sightseeing a 6 The Platinum Jim Thomson House Fashion Mall b Madame Tussauds 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen@ Museum c CentralWorld Queen Savang Vadhana Museum 9 Gaysorn 1

udi 2

Soi 3

Soi 3

am R

20

Soi 2

Ratchadamri

Soi Nai Lert

14 12

2

u Soi R

17

Soi Ruam Rudi

Witthayu Rd

UA IT

NL Soi Mahatlek Luang3

FI

18

14

9

Th. Witthayu Rd

Soi Som Khit Soi Tonson

So i6

Soi 5

Ratchadamri Rd

19 5

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2 8

CO VN

d

11

Phloen Chit 15

Rd

Henri Dunant Rd

7

Soi Mahatlek Luang 1

4

vit 2

Rajamangala University

Soi 11

Soi 3

Soi 2

Soi 4

Soi 9

Soi 1

Soi 8

1

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

m ukhu

Phaya Thai Rd

Siam Square

12

an R hith ng P

16

g

f 10

15

Soi S

1

Soi 7

2

UK

13

Dua

1

18

Soi Chit Lom

11

Siam

National Stadium

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 23 Soi 25

Soi 27

10

9

Soi Lang Suan

Rama I

3

8

4

Soi 10

Soi Kaesem San1

Soi Kaesem San2

3

CH

ay e ssw Expr

d

b 2

7

Nai Lert Park

ohn

Wat Pathum Wanaram

16

Nak

Srapathum Palace

1

e

2 13

Chit Lom

lerm

a

Prathunam

3

Witthayu Bridge

Soi 32

Saeb c

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Khlong San

5

6

6

Ratchaprarop

5

Soi 19

Soi 15

ID Soi 20

Ratchathewi

17

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

uri Rd

Soi 22

Phetchab

Soi 17

Soi 13

4

Embassies

Switzerland Finland ID Indonesia CO Colombia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Qatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US United State VN Vietnam IT Italy CH FI

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tR nan 8

Thaniya

4

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

8 Than Tawan Rd Soi 6

He nry

Trok Klue

Du

Sap Rd s Naradhiwaind ra Rajanagar

Soi 12

Soi 10

Naret Rd

d

Ph

aya

Tha

Soi So ng Ph ra

i Rd

t

6 3 11

Sala Daeng

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Silom

aI

Sala Daeng 1

Soi 6 b

CA Ram

Sala Daeng 1/1

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd

MY

MX 12

Suan Suan

CE

V

Rd

Soi 1

Sala Daeng Rd

St. Joseph School

7

Soi 5

SG

Soi 7

Soi 8

15

Convent Rd

Soi 1

Soi 3

Soi 7

Soi 9 14

Soi 9

Soi 14

Charo

at 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

Surawong Rd

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

nR

MN

janagarindra Rd

roe

at 1

Char

an

Cha

Soi 13

en R

63

44

Soi

King Mongkut’s University of Technology

10

Chong Nonsi

Soi 13 int Lou ise – Sathor n Soi 11

oen R

tho Sa

Surasak

a

Soi Phiphat 2

Soi Sa

So rn

5

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Lumpini Park

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd Soi 15

i2

at Rd

1

un Kr n oe ar

Ch

So i5 7 S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kru ng

n4

6

i5

GR

4

gR

So So i 51 i5 3

Ch

Cha

So

BE

Naradhiwas Ra

Rd

3

6

9

d

2

2

Suras ak

i5

suri

3

Chulalongkorn University

Sam Yan

Pan Rd

7

i4 6 i5 1 0

Saphan Taksin

SathornSo

8

8

So

3

e

2 i4 So 44 i So

So

Iam

Silom Rd

4

Ta Taksin ksi nB rid g

chai

Rd

chit

Surawong Rd Kam

V

Soi Nom

Soi 14 Decho Rd

Oriental

2

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 38 Soi 40

Soi 2 6

Dumax

FR

1

n Rd

N

aI

Soi Santiphap

t

Soi 19

Wat Suwan

7

Rak– 1 Soi 3 6

Phloi

Soi Puttha Oso

Pramua

Bang

5 5 6

4

Soi 30

Soi 3

Sek Rd

2

Wat Muang Khae 6

1

5

Maha

N

Rd

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Post

Ra

Soi 5

on Rd Na kh Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

7

Soi

3

Soi 13

N

Si Phraya

Soi 11

1

9

Hua Lamphong

m

Ma ha

Rd Krung Charo en

Cha roen

6

Khlong San

2

e Exp ressw ay

8

2 nd Stat

Nak hon

Rd

2

wang

Soi Sa

Phr aN akh are

4

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya Rd

Soi 22 Soi P/2ra– Prach um dit

N

Soi Wanit 2

siam/chit lom | MAP

13 4

Phlu

6

AT

Soi Nantha Mozart

hlu 8

P

Immigration Office

Hotels

The Peninsula Bangkok 2 Millenium Hilton 3 Shangri-La Bangkok 4 Centre Point Hotel Silom 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn 9 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 10 Le Meridien 11 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park 12 Banyan Tree Bangkok 13 The Sukhothai Bangkok 14 W Bangkok 1

bangkok101.com

15 Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

7

Art to Art gallery Artery Gallery

Embassies

Austria BE Belgium Bars with Shopping CA Canada 1 Robinsons CE Germany Views 1 Three Sixty Lounge 2 River City Shopping GR Greece 2 Red Sky Bar 3 Silom Village FR France 3 Panorama 4 Silom/Patpong MY Malaysia 4 Vertigo Too Night-Market MX Mexico 5 Jim Thompson MN Myanmar Shop Surawong Nightlife PT Portugal 5 La Casa del 6 O.P. Place SG Singapore 7 Iconsiam Habano Bangkok 8 The Jam Factory 6 Bamboo Bar 9 Klongsan Plaza 7 Eat Me 8 Tapas

Arts & Culture

Serindia Gallery 2 Number 1 Gallery 3 Gossip Gallery 4 H Gallery 5 Bangkokian Museum 6 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 1

8

N

AT

200 m 1 000 ft

1

N

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

Sightseeing a b

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

SEP/OCT 2019 | 97


MAP | yaowarat/pahurat (chinatown&little india ) Ma

j

da

na Na

iP

rad

u

t Rd

Rama IV Rd

Yaowarat oi

YS

7

Ch

aro

j

en

2

Kru

ng

Tri i ngs

nit 1

Ph

at Rd

Song W

S

ng

ua

D oi

Rd et i Ph

Rajchawongse ut

Rd

Tr

a an Ph Saph

6

d

N

ng R

Sap

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Hotels

Grand China Princess 2 Shanghai Mansion Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

1

N

River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

D Tha

ae in D

S

an aph

Em

pir

e

Phu

t

han

Phu

t

Ba N

Tha Din Daeng

Memorial Bridge

Soi T

ha K

lang

ha R

Ma

5

Arts & Culture

Chalermkrung Theatre Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 2

Temples

Wat Ratburana b Wat Phra Piren c Wat Bophit Phimuk Worawihan d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphan thawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) i Wat Kanikapol j Wat Disanukaram a

Markets

Lang Krasuang Market Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 1 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 1 Yot Phiman Market 1 Pahurat–Indian Fabric Market 1 Sampeng Market 1 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 1 Khlong Tom Market 1 Talat Kao (Old Market) 1 Talat Mai (New Market) 1 1

Sightseeing k

98 | SEP/OCT 2019

Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

bangkok101.com

n

wa

Ta

Marine Dept. N

o nM

Rachini Rd Atsadang Rd

d at R

CK

Mit

YS

Rd

Rd

ra anu

Chaiyaphun

Trok Itsaranuphap

Mangkon

g

Soi Wa

h

oi

1

YSoi3

wo

Anu

c

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Hua Lamphong

So

Mittrphan Rd 2 oi YS

2

Chi

Y5

Y Soi 9

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Soi 18

Soi 4

Plang Nam

Soi 21

Soi 16 Soi 6

Soi 14 Soi 8

Y Soi 15

d ng R

itri

t Rd Song Sawa

Rd Soi 19

n Mangko

Sua Pa Rd Ratchawong Rd

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

Y Soi 23

Luean Rit d

Ma

Y Soi 11

1 Soi Aner Keng

W

Chakkrawat

d

at R

hur

Pha

d

R ari

Rd

rap

Sampeng Lane – Soi Wanit

Bu

at

Y Soi 17

Soi 17

Maha Chak

Soi 8

Soi 10

YS10 CKS12

Soi 15

Soi 11

Soi 13

9 So i

6 i So

Rd

Yaow

ha

4 i So

Pha

Rd arat

Rd Chakphet

ip

Rd hat rip

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5

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Tr

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Sa

f

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Th

c

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ut

Ch

m

Sa

Charoen Krung Rd

t

Yo

t Rd

ng

Romaneenart Park

g

Khlon

n Rd

t Phire

Wa Thom

Si Thammathirat

ip

Sir

Trok Si

b

k Rd Woracha

Soi

hat

Chi

u Kr

d

ng R

Lua

itri

Mai

Ban Dok

ulin Soi Ch

N

4

9

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So


rattanakosin (oldtown) | MAP Ra

ma

14

N

m So

Rama VIII Bridge

Ph

its

VII

I

an

ulo

kR

d

tP de

Rd

su

Rd

Wi

Sam sen

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nl

ay

a

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Dinso Rd

cha Rat at Rd

d

Boriph

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ak R Wo

Soi B

Khlon

an B

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at

g Ong

d

Ang

Wa

tP

hir

at R

d

hai Rd

m

Rd

Ch

at

oe

nK

Ch ak

kr

aw

ar

ph

im

uk

ru

Ya

ng

ow

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hit

en

aC

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at

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Rd

Rd

Wat Chakrawat

d

Anu

at R

won

d

g Rd

on gR

gW

aw

Son

tch

lao

Bridg e

Maha

Rd Dinso

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d

op

okk

Ka

orial

iW

ho

d

at R

kraw

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aP

So

6

Phr

g

Wat Kanlayannamit

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Ra

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Wat Bophit Pimuk

Market

Mem

ari Am Kh

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at

bangkok101.com

7

iB

Sri

un Ar

N

et R

d

ah

Yodpiman Wat Liap Market

kph

Rajinee

So

Ka sem

Cha

lo

ng

Ph

Kh

pho

ak ra

K

ng

Phahurat Rd

et R

lat

m ha

Phir a

Ch

ha

iT

So

Ta

Rd

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

an hak

Burapha Rd

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam ett Soi S

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Ban Mo Rd

Ch

rat

Wat Arun

n

ho etup

ha Ma

Tha Tien

at

lon

t Rd

Wat Pho

8

Trok Phan um

Kh

Sam Yot

Charoen Krung Rd

Tri Phe

g Rd

Wan

ai Sanam Ch

Thai

ng R

Trok

ya Si

Lua

iph

Soi Phra

Wat Saket

Muang Rd

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa So ng Soi Long Tha

Rd

Phan Fah Leelard

M

Wisu t

Saranrom Park

Soi Mahannop 2

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Soi S iricha i2 Soi S iricha i1

Soi Sirip at

Ti Thon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Trok Sukha 2

Rat

Bumrung Rd

Wat Suthat

Trok Sukha1

ng Rak

Wat Ratchanatdaram

mran

Una n Rd Siri Phka ong Rd

aitri Rd

Wat Ratchapradit

Damro

g Tai

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

uang Rd

Rd an Saw on h k Na Lan Luang Rd

Klan

Bor

Tanao Rd

Buranasat Rd

Trok Nava

Lo

City Hall

p

Phraeng Nara

noen

Sin

Mahanno

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Grand Palace

t

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Wat Ratchanatdaram

m Trok

Khru

an

Maha C

d

Lak Mueang Rd

kB

Democracy Monument

ang Tai

on Rd

Na Phra Lan Rd

Trok

g Nuea

Rd

Tro

W

Fuang Nakh

Na Hap Phoei

e Rd Rachine g Rd Atsadan

rn

noen Klan

Klang

noen Kl

S

Bunsiri

Ratcha

Soi Silipako

N

Soi Dam

noen

Trokat T hep Sath T hid ien a Ra

Damno

Sanam Luang

Pra cha T

Ch ae Tr ok Ka i

gR

Ch

Rd en Nai

at Rd ra Th

n Rd

Na Ph

Maharat Rd

ri

d

d

ake Khlo ng Lo t

ng

S g oi ra BangSamse Su n Wat me Lamp 2 n R hu Bowonniwet d ViHara

Ph

Soi Dam

Trok

ho

lon

nR

la

Silpokaorn University

Chao Phraya

i

a Dam

Cha

Tha Chang

osa

n Tu

Wat Mahathat

9

ni

Kha

R lao

N

p

K in

Amulet Market

Ta

Kh

tt Bu

sa Ka

aP

Wang Lang

ap

ais

m

ok Tr

hr

Phra

Maharaj

National Arts Gallery

iW or

Kr

Ratch

Thammasart University

10

N

Wat Chana Songkhram

Ra

tP de m So ge id

Br Dua

So

on

lao

National Theatre

Railway

i

ttr

Bu

Ph

S

National Museum

Wat Rakhang

am

R oi

ink

11 Thonburi

N

P

Rd

ak kr a

aP hr

Khlong Bangkok Noi

Thonburi Railway

th

Ati

d tR

tP

Phra Atith

a hr

asa

de m So

13

N

nk

lao

hip ata i

K in 12

ha

aP Phra Pin Klao Bridge N

d Rd R ng em ua as kL gK Lu run K

hr Wat Saodung

N

5

Rajchawongse

SEP/OCT 2019 | 99


SIGNING OFF | did you know?

E

xercise mainly helps reduce Triglyceride level and induce High-Density Lipoprotein (HDL) known as the good fat in our systems, but it does not have as much impact all by itself on the Low-Density Lipoprotein (LDL) or the bad cholesterol. Consistent physical activity may naturally decrease Triglyceride and boost HDL that transports excess cholesterol back to the liver, but it has less influence on LDL cholesterol blockage in the arteries. To efficiently improve heart health which means lowering LDL and Triglyceride levels, and increasing HDL level, restriction in saturated and trans fat and moderate intake of good fat sources such as omega-3 fortified foods are recommended. Workout alone will not do the trick despite high-fat eating habits, especially for those diagnosed with Direct LDL higher than 130mg/dl and cholesterol higher than 200mg/dl. In order to properly manage a healthy Lipid profile consisting of Cholesterol (CHOL), Triglyceride (TRIG), High-Density Lipoprotein (HDL), and Low-Density Lipoprotein (LDL), changes in dietary in support of physical routine are crucial. www.health.harvard.edu/heart-health/11-foods-that-lower-cholesterol

100 | SEP/OCT 2019

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