Bangkok 101 November-December 2019 by Talisman Media

Christmas and New Year celebrated all over

nown for its Infinity Pool Bar and Rooftop Bar & Restaurant, Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road houses chefs and mixologists behind the all-time favourite dishes and drinks. Especially for this festive season, the holiday cheer does not stop only by the pool but also takes guests up to view Bangkok’s rooftop skyline. CHAR unwraps Christmas feast on 24 and 25 December 2019 for families for a three-course dinner at B4,000 net person with parties of two to five for B3,500 net per person, six to nine for B3,160 net per person and ten or more for B2,900net per person. From 6pm to 10pm, selections of foie gras mousse, crudité with smoked egg yolk sauce, flatbread with shaved ham and horseradish butter, and meaty mains to complement entrées such as whole roasted chicken stuffed with truﬄes and a one-kg wagyu tomahawk served with Bordelaise and Jeaw sauces are available. Peppermint ice cream terrine, pecan pie and many other seasonal desserts set the mood for the evening. The restaurant unlocks a special wine list and three Christmas-themed cocktails for B350 net per glass. Toasts can be customised with Bourbon-inspired Uncle San or fruity Tree-Tree X concoction or a chocolate-y raspberry vodka-based Snow White. But from 5pm to 1am, the celebrations can continue at CHAR Rooftop Bar.

Later on, a five-course menu for the new year is unfolded. CHAR presents from oysters to racks of lamb and apple cobbler. Early bird seating is at B2,499 net per person from 5:30pm to 8pm. An option of dining until the new year is at B4,500 net per person with seating from 8pm to midnight. After dinner, guests can then choose to continue their party by the pool or on the rooftop for B1,000 net per person. The rooftop party is Silver & White themed with DJs spinning dance tunes until the countdown. There is an entrance fee of B2,000 net per person. Guests can opt for two glasses of sparkling wine or a wide range of drinks from buy-1-get-1-free offers to table service packages. In the meantime, Infinity Pool Bar charges B2,000 net per person with two complementary beverages, not to mention the allnight canapes. Finally, to get 2020 started, a lucky draw for a one-night-stay at the Royal Ratchapruek Suite will unveil the winner at 11:30pm. Booking by 30 November 2019, will be at a special rate with limited space. For more information about the festivities or to make a reservation, email charbangkok@ihg.com or fb.hotelindigobangkok@ ihg.com or call 02 207 4999.

Siam Paragon World of Taste Gala

Chef Ton, Chef Massimo Bottura & Mason

Women in Gastronomy 2019 Amberjack and Sea Urchin

Chef Cristina & Chef Tam

Chef Fabrizio Fiorani

Costardi Brothers Tomato rice Banski's Balloon girl by Fabrizio Fiorani

Southern Curry Agnolotti

Jay Fai in Copenaghen

Bobby Chinn Mason Florence & Filippo Cassabgi

Marino Braccu Pork rib, pickled strawberries and quinoa

Duck Gang Phet

Chef Ton and Chef Bombana Sambuca-infused beetroots

Sea Urchin Rice

Chef Takeshi 'Goh' Fukuyama

Chef Umberto Bombana Chiang Mai Tomato 'Nam Prik' Tart

Chef Pichaya 'Pam' Utharntharm Oyster Hoytod

Adventures in Food

A community of like-minded nomads, united in the pursuit of food; from chefs and restaurants to street food, culinary events and international forums. Come and discover a new culinary universe with us. See the website for future events.

www.gastronauts.asia

publisher’s letter

M WHAT IS BANGKOK 101 Independent and unbiased, Bangkok 101 caters to savvy travellers who yearn for more than what they find in guidebooks. It brings together an authoritative who’s who of city residents, writers, photographers and cultural commentators. The result is a compact and intelligent hybrid of monthly travel guide and city magazine that takes you on and off the well-worn tourist track. Bangkok 101 employs the highest editorial standards, with no fluff, and no smut. Our editorial content cannot be bought. We rigorously maintain the focus on our readers, and our ongoing mission is to ensure they enjoy this great city as much as we love living in it.

any memorable things happened in 2019 and in this issue, we are picking a few noteworthy round-ups to present to you. As the season winds up, the year winds down, we went out and explore some of Bangkok’s dining options on the streets where we put together a list of century-old (or older) street food stalls and restaurants where some have been operating since the reign of King Rama V (pg. 20). Also shining a spotlight on some of the long-term pioneers in Bangkok food scenes who came from far and wide to live and thrive in Bangkok for over 20 years (pg. 26). Intriguing interviews include an energetic talk with the eccentric and artistic Jitti Chompee (pg. 30), and an exclusive chat with Tom Waller on the movie ‘The Cave,’ the tales of the cave rescue at Tham Luang Nang Non, Chiang Mai which will be in theatre in November this year (pg. 34). Then we will take you to Koh Libong and what it was like to spend a day with a family of the fisherman (pg. 38). Before returning to Bangkok for an encounter with the ancient terracotta warriors at Bangkok National Museum (pg. 48). Not to be missed are some spicy behind-the-kitchen-door talks, food and dining updates, nightlife and upcoming festive promotions and so much more. Get in touch with what’s happening in Bangkok and Enjoy. beyond, visit our archive online at www.bangkok101.com. We always strive to bring the best and most valuable content to you, and if you feel Mason Florence there are things we’re not Publisher covering but should, please drop us a line at info@talisman.asia.

BANGKOK 101 PARTNERS

8 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

16 Dr Tom Vitayakul

A Bangkok-born and internationally bred aesthete, Dr Tom Vitayakul brings the best stories of creative minds and artistic souls to life from traditional to contemporary, to avant-garde about their visions, inspirations and creations. FB/IG: @tom.vitayakul

Joe Cummings

Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. FB/IG: @joecummings

Rosalind Yunibandhu

Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

Our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: @nymster

Samantha Proyrungtong

Australian-borne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies. com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: @bangkokfoodiesthailand IG: @bangkokfoodies

Chris Watson

Chris is a former Michelin Guide Inspector, following an international career in hospitality spanning 30 years in both the Middle East and Asia, has now settled in Thailand and contributes to ‘Into the Hood’ column in Bangkok 101. IG: @xmichelinman

city pulse 12 16 20 24 26

Metro Beat What’s going on in November and December My BKK Visiting Bangkok National Museum Best of BKK Century-old street food in Bangkok Best of BKK Into the Hood-Charoenkrung-Talad Noi Best of BKK Foreign pioneers in Bangkok food scene

snapshots 30 34 36

Now New Next An interview with Jitti Chompee Joe’s Bangkok Tom Waller’s ‘The Cave’ hits Bangkok cinemas Very Thai Fairy Lights

travel 38 40

Travel 101 Libong fishing community Koh Libong & Koh Mook Beyond the shores of Trang Archipelago

art & culture 46 48 51 52 56

Le Link Gallery BKK Ingeborg zu Schleswig-Holstein Qin Shi Huang The First Emperor of China and Terracotta Warriors Broadway in Bangkok Debuting performances in Bangkok at Aksra Theatre Photo Feature Art for the Heart Art Exhibitions Latest gallery openings and exhibitions from across the city

Bangkok 101 is available at:

70 food & drink 58 60 62 64 66 74 78 80

Aroy FAVOLA Italian Restaurant at Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi Kitchen Backstories The Humble Banana Eat Like Nym Som Tam Food Talop Bitchin’ in the Kitchen Galloping Gourmets Restaurant reviews Eat Me, Ruen Urai, Volti, The Kitchen Table, Elements Breaking Bread with Chef Jutamas Theantae Transcending familiar boundaries with a dining journey like no other Meal Deals Food & Drink Listings

nightlife 86 88 92

Nightlife Updates Vana Nava Sky Hua Hin Nightlife reviews Spectrum, Vertigo TOO, ABar Nightlife Listings

signing off

106 Signing off—Did you know? The first hotel in Siam and Bangkok

88 publisher editor-in-chief associate publisher managing editor editor-at-large associate editor art director graphic designer strategists

Mason Florence Dr Jesda M. Tivayanond Tipparnee Prajakwit Morgan Thanarojpradit Joe Cummings Sithasa Kanchanavijaya Narong Srisaiya Thanakrit Skulchartchai Sebastien Berger Nathinee Chen

contributing writers

Samantha Proyrungtong Korakot Punlopruksa Tom Vitayakul Chris Watson Rosalind Yunibandhu

general manager senior sales manager distribution

Vittoria Dell’Anna Ornuma Promsrikaew Pichet Ruengjit

contents Table of

nov/dec 2019

On the cover

An urban sketch of Supanniga Eating Room Charoenkrung branch in ink and watercolor by Morgan JT PUBLISHED BY Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 54 Naradhiwas Rajanagarindra Soi 4, Sathorn Tai Rd., Yannawa, Sathorn, Bangkok 10120 Tel: 02 286 7821 | Fax: 02 286 7829 | bangkok101@talisman.asia ©Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2019. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

CITY PULSE | metro beat

nov/dec

loy krathong

travel

nov 12

dec 1

Anantara Desaru Coast Resort & Villas is scheduled to open its first luxurious venture in Malaysia on the golden shores, overlooking the gardens, lagoon and ocean. Facilities include specialty restaurants and scenic dining areas, two swimming pools, separate dedicated clubs, spa and wellness centre, a conference room and a mid-sized ballroom. Other attractions feature two golf courses, an adventure water park and a waterfront retail village. www.anantara.com

Photo by Thailand Equestrian Federation

sport

thanksgiving

dec 1-8

FEI (FĂŠdĂŠration Equestre Internationale) is organising Asian Championships at Thai Polo and Equestrian Club Pattaya this year. More than 150 countries will join the first Asian Championships 2019 with over 100 horses participating from all over the world and especially from Europe. Both local and international equestrian families, friends and fans will unite including officials. Seven medals will be awarded to the winners. www.acpattaya2019.com 12 | NOV/DEC 2019

One of the main Loy Krathong festivals is held annually at Asiatique. The riverfront celebration coincides with live music and dance, fireworks and night market. The riverside sunset starts off the event in which the crowd floats candlelit handmade vessels away to thank and apologise to the Water Goddess. Krathongs are crafted with natural materials and demonstrated on the boardwalk. www.asiatiquethailand.com

nov 28

Thursday Thanksgiving at Red Oven, SO/ Bangkok is all about giving, sharing and good living from 6pm-11pm. A wide range of autumn flavours is served around royal roasted turkey. Price starting from B2,500++ per person. Book your seat at http://bit.ly/2kLY9n1 and call 02 624 0000 or email h6835-fb4@sofitel.com for more information. bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | metro beat

concert

wine

The first live show of British rock band Mumford & Sons will be held at GMM Live House at CentralWorld on Thursday 21 November 2019. Known for 21st century folk revival music, the band has released four studio albums and won the Best British Album, Best British Group as well as the Grammy Award for Album of the Year. Tickets start from B1,800. www.thaiticketmajor.com/concert/mumford-and-sons-live-inbangkok-2019.html

The 8th edition of the largest wine event in Bangkok by internationally acclaimed wine critic is back on Wednesday 27 November 2019, 5-8pm (trade included) at Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel. More than 190 premium wines from James Suckling’s selection that score at least 90 points will be showcased by 100 wine producers at the walkaround tasting. www.jamessuckling.com/event/ great-wines-italy-asia-2019bangkok

nov 21

nov 23

Composers Kyle Dixon and Michael Stein are performing electronic music from the talk of the town Netflix original sci-fi series, Stranger Things at KBank Siam Pic-Ganesha Center of Performing Arts, Siam Square One on Saturday 23 November 2019 from 8pm onwards. The duo are members of an American band, Survive and received the Primetime Emmy Awards for Outstanding Original Main Title Theme Music. Tickets are B2,000. www.siam2nite.com/en/events/2019-11-23/kyle-d-x-michael-s-20857

nov 30

Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds is an English rock band formed in 2010 by former lead guitarist of Oasis and songwriter of timeless tracks like Don’t Look Back in Anger, Wonderwall and Stop Crying Your Heart Out. Solo works from his new band have achieved Number 1 UK Album ranking. Set on Saturday 30 November 2019, the concert will take place at Show DC Arena with door opening at 7pm. Regular tickets are B3,600 and VIP at B4,600. www.ticketmelon.com/very/ noelgallagher

christmas

dec 24-25

Furoshiki Christmas Hampers from La Pâtisserie at Okura Prestige Bangkok are seasonal Japanese-inspired gifts wrapped in fabrics. The first hamper—Okura Okurimono—encompasses a selection of wonderful homemade and customised treats priced at B4,500 net. The second hamper is called Erabu Okurimono, a DIY option with minimum purchase B2,900 net. For more information and to place an order, contact 02 687 9000 or email lapatisserie@okurabangkok.com 14 | NOV/DEC 2019

nov 27

festival

dec 12-16

Wonderfruit is returning to the fields at Siam Country Club, Pattaya for the 6th year. The festival revolves around sustainable and creative experience all day for four days and nights. The idea is to celebrate art, music and food with a lineup of international artists such as Floating Points, Sonja Moonear and Craig Richards; Willow, Felix Dickinson and many more. www.wonderfruit.co

new year’s eve

dec 31

Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park presents Festive 2020 promotions. For example, ABar, an exclusive cocktail bar on the 37th floor and ABar Rooftop, an alfresco rooftop bar host The End of a Decade Party on 31 December 2019 with live music and free flow drinks from 10pm onwards. For more information and reservation, contact 02 059 5999, email restaurant-reservations.bkkqp@ marriotthotels.com or visit www.bangkokmarriottmarquis queenspark.com bangkok101.com

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bangkok National Museum (Phra Nakhon) Revisiting local art and artefacts

stablished in the year 1887 by King Rama V, Bangkok National Museum (Phra Nakhon) today occupies the former 18th-century Wang Na Palace in Phra Nakhon district. It is within a walking distance of The Grand Palace and Phra Chan Pier near Thammasart University (Tha Phra Chan). It is under the management of the Department of Fine Arts. The Bangkok National Museum holds 12 halls. Now, featuring the famed Qin Shi Huang: The First Emperor of China and Terracotta Warriors exhibition 16 | NOV/DEC 2019

in the Siwamokkhaphiman Throne Hall located at the front of the compound, near the ticketing booth. The exhibition will showcase until 15 December 2019. There are multimedia displays in English available while some of the exhibitions include relics from King Rama IVâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reign (Sukhothai and Rattanakosin periods), the Archeological and Art History collection showcasing items from Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prehistoric periods (Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods) to the modern Thai Kingdom today.

Bangkok National Museum also contains the funeral chariot hall displaying the carriages used for royal cremation ceremonies. There are free tours available in English, German, French and Japanese, however, the schedule may vary. It is best to confirm the schedule either on the website or Facebook page beforehand.

Bangkok National Museum 4 Na Phra That Rd. Tel: 02 224 1402 Open: Wed-Sun 9am-4pm (closed on Mon-Tue)

bangkok101.com

N E W Y E A R â&#x20AC;&#x2122;S E V E R O O FT O P C E L E B R AT I O N S T I C K E T S AVA I L A B L E B O O K E A R LY TO AVO I D D I S A P P O I N T M E N T P L E A S E CO N TAC T O U R D I N I N G R E S E RVAT I O N S

For further information please contact dining reservations Tel : 02 100 6255 Email : diningcgcw@chr.co.th CentaraGrandatCentralWorld

CentaraGrand_CentralWorld

SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM CHAROENKRUNG Sampling the traditional Thai dishes from the recipe books of Khunyai Somsri Chantra

he dining experience at any Supanniga Eating Room outlet is sure to bring back a level of nostalgia for most. The familiar atmosphere and beautiful home-cooked meals carefully crafted by people who truly care about what they serve always made for a warm and welcoming sensation. Set in a beautifully restored two-storey shophouse from the King Rama VII period on Charoenkrung Soi 38 stands the brand new branch of Supanniga Eating Room. As if to bridge the past with the present, the interior boasts a perfectly harmonious blend between contemporary and traditional designs with one wall showcasing striking custom-made floral pattern made from Thai silk tassels and the utmost comfort for all guests remains key. “We are both proud and humbled to open Supanniga Eating Room in Charoenkrung—one of the oldest streets in Bangkok—and introduce a series of new dishes inspired by my grandmother. Her cooking and way of life remain a big inspiration to our whole

family and we are grateful and excited to be able to share her dishes and love of food with our guests,” Mr Thanaruek Laoraowirodge, the grandson of Khunyai Somsri Chantra and co-founder of Supanniga Eating Room said. First, we were greeted with the Supanniga Hot and Cold Platter to jump-start the appetite. The Supanniga Hot Platter is served with the aromatic fried Isaan sausages with Vietnamese sausages and freshly grilled chicken wings served with hot sauce. The Cold Platter came with an assortment of traditional Ma Hor (meaning ‘galloping horse’ in Thai)—sweet pork ball with a combination of herbs like coriander, garlic, shallots, roasted peanuts served on a slice of orange; Mieng Yong—Mieng Kham but served with dried shredded pork wrapped in fresh betel leaf; and Khaotang Namprik Kakmoo—a combination of pork crackling, shallots, dried chilli and shrimp and garlic served in a paste to be enjoyed with pieces of rice crackers.

The Yum Som-O Krueng Srong—refreshing spicy and sour Pomelo salad served with grilled prawns, shredded sweet pork and chicken topped with grounded dried shrimp was perfect with or without an accompaniment of rice. Other popular choices amongst guests include the flavourful and savoury yet not overpowering serving of Chinese cabbage gravied with premium fish sauce from Trad province. Not to mention the Gaeng crab meat with Cha Plu leaves—a famed red curry and coconut milk soup, known for its richness in flavours and spices served with sumptuous Surat Thani’s colossal crab meat and crab roe and Cha Plu leaves. The re-imagined grilled pork collar in Chamuang leaves served with aromatic seared rice cakes was another robust and must-try signature here while Kai Yok Song—a special-shaped omelette stuffed full with sweet colossal crab meat, prawn, basil and Koh Chang’s shrimp paste. While the menu here reiterates all-time favourites and best-loved recipes from Khunyai’s cookbook, Supanniga Eating Room Charoenkrung also offers exclusive dishes only available at this branch including the coconut curry with lotus stems and mackerel—a

smooth blend of coconut milk with savoury shrimp paste, the slight sourness of tamarind paste and lotus roots further enhanced the flavours and textures of the dish; and the coconut soup with salak snake fruit, commonly seen only in dessert dishes, and crispy sa-lid (Snake Skin Gourami fish) meat. Or an order of stir-fried crab roe with Himalayan salt and chilli mix—chunks of blue swimming crab roe and meat served in a perfect mixture of salt, chilli and garlic offered a sensational combination of spiciness, sweetness, saltiness and sourness. The combination proved intriguing and, obviously, delicious. These are some honoured recipes that Khunyai loved to make. Supanniga Eating Room exists in five locations throughout Bangkok: Thonglor, Sathorn Soi 10, Tha Tien, Supanniga Cruise on Chao Phraya River and Charoenkrung Soi 38.

Supanniga Eating Room Charoenkrung

10-12 Charoenkrung Soi 38 Tel. 02 006 9744 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm; 5:30pm-11pm www.supannigaeatingroom.com www.facebook.com/SupannigaEatingRoom

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Bangkok Legends Exploring century-old street food stalls by Bangkok101 Team

Tek Heng (Mee Krob Jeen Lee)

Tek Heng or Mee Krob Jeen Lee has been serving customers since the reign of King Rama V and has been run by the same Thai-Taechiew family since. This 130-year-old restaurant is known especially for its delicious, sweet and sour crispy noodles.

the walls and posts are mirrorcovered while on one wall boasts multiple newspaper clippings, awards and images guaranteeing their lineage and quality.

The signatures include the crispy noodles with and/or without soup. Don’t underestimate the commonplace of the menu, however. The crispy noodles here is crisper and much lighter in texture and taste than most. The dish is served with marinated garlic, palm sugar and soy sauce garnished with shrimp, crab meat, bean sprouts and parsley. The restaurant is also known to serve other quintessential dishes as well as the signature crispy noodles, including Hae Cho—minced pork and/or crab meat wrapped in beancurd sheets deep-fried and served with sweet and sticky plum sauce.

Korn), which they have been for the past 30 years. Daeng Ra Cha Hoi Tod (fried mussels pancake) is currently operated by the fourth generation of the family.

Literally a hole-in-the-wall restaurant located at the corner of Soi Su Korn 1 before Wat Traimitr, which is easy enough to find but, alas, there’s no parking space here as it is a very small soi.

Thoet Thai Soi 18 Rd. Tel: 02 466 9170 Open daily: 10am-2pm, 4:30pm-9:30pm

From a floating restaurant on the Bangkok Yai canal, today stands sky blue multi-storied shophouses located in Talad Phlu market next to the Bangkok Yai canal pier. Tek Heng is minimally decorated with tiled floor, simple tables and chairs. The majority of 20 | NOV/DEC 2019

Daeng Ra Cha Hoi Tod Began as a small street food stall on Song Wat Road for over 80 years before moving the location to Trok Rong Mhoo Road (Soi Su

The signature menu is the restaurant’s namesake which is ‘Hoi Tod’ or ‘Aor Suan’—mussels and/or an oyster omelette (B50). Generally, there are two types; the crispy and pancake-soft kind which solely depends on what kind bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

of starch is used and how the dish is cooked. The crispy type seems to be more favourable for most people. An important aspect of this restaurant is in sourcing quality ingredients. The oysters and mussels are delivered fresh on a daily basis. The omelette is served with a side of heated bean sprouts (raw) with chopped spring onions and chilli sauce.

Another popular dish on offer is Thai spring rolls or ‘Por Pia Sod’ (B25-35)—cucumber, heated bean sprouts, Chinese sausage or ‘Goon Chiang,’ Chinese rillettes, egg ribbons and marinated tofu usually served with sweet brown sauce sprinkled with crab meat on top. This menu is accompanied by mustard, pickled, sliced chillies and green onions. Soi Su Korn 1 Rd. (Trok Rong Mhoo) Tel: 086 883 8505, 081 409 3906, 087 815 0855 Open daily: 9am-6pm

Prajak Ped Yang

Prachak Roast Duck has been open for over 100 years since bangkok101.com

1909 by Chinese ancestors. Passed on over four generations, the eatery is best known for roasted duck, crispy pork and roasted pork. They are usually ordered on top of rice or egg noodles with the signature sweet brown gravy that has never changed its taste.

Always busy, the shophouse displays its hanging roasted meat out front as well as a frozen roasted duck in vacuum package for sale. One of the tiles by the entrance is black and cites the date of establishment. Inside, dining tables and plastic stools are situated on the first and second floor. The old wooden slippery stairs remain. Other popular orders are stuffed pork hock, Chepo rice or noodles consisting of Chinese sausage, roasted duck, stuffed pork hock, roasted pork and crispy pork, shrimp and duck wonton, sea bass in red sauce, various duck organs, stewed duck, and dim sum. The fine egg noodles are cooked al dente. The current location is in Talat Noi, Bangrak. 1415 Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 02 234 3755, 02 235 6324 Open daily: 8am-8:30pm www.prachakrestaurant.com

Kan Kee Golden Gourd

Opened since 1901, the catchline of Kan Kee Nam Tao Thong is using the principle of yin and yang to defeat canker sores. The full name of this brand was Nam Tao Thong Sung How Low Liang Tae, known for selling the sweet and bitter herbal drink to heal mouth ulcers and stimulate the appetite. In 1956, the shop began producing bitter drink in the golden gourd which was originally prepared and drunk fresh by glass. Then the recipe was adjusted to become herbal medicine in the filter bag, registered as traditional medicine and sold as an alternative option for consumers. In 1974, it was turned into tablet and powder, and the new sweet herbal drink was created for those who disprefer bitterness.

Two large golden gourds stand in the centre of the tiny space, NOV/DEC 2019 | 21

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

one containing the bitter herbal drink and another sweet. They are believed to improve health and balance the yin and yang. Customers often buy drinks in glass and finish them in front of the shop. They can either be made hot or iced. Takeaway bottles are also available. 670 670 Charoen Krung Rd. Tel: 02 623 0718 Open daily: 8am-10pm www.namtaothong.com

Lieo Lieng Seng

This used to be a small and unassuming ice cream shop occupying a shophouse by Ratchawong Pier. It was established in the reign of King Rama V when Prince Chitcharoen (Prince Narisara Nuwattiwong) gave the capital fund to a young Chinese immigrant named Kwangsoon Sae Lieo. Moreover, Mr Phao Siyanon, the Police General at the time also sold the imported cigarette brand 555 at the shop. The ice cream shop became known as Ratchawongse Ice Cream 555. It is also the first manufacturer of cup ice cream in Siam which was established at the same time as the first ice factory in Thailand. 22 | NOV/DEC 2019

Today, Lieo Lieng Seng aka Ratchawongse Ice Cream 555 is located near Wat Hua Lamphong, opposite Chao Por Heng Jia Shrine (Tai Sia Huk Chou Shrine or Monkey God Shrine) near Chinatown.

Later, the shop was moved to Rama IV Road where the second generation, Mr Seng-jiang Sae Lieo, took over the business after his father. He further developed the ice cream recipe to be more creamy and smooth and added more flavours. He also added a number of traditional Taechiew dishes as made before the World War to serve the shopâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s customers as well. However, in 2014, Mr Seng-jiang passed away suddenly and Mr Kritsakork Diewprachayarak, the third generation took over the business.

With the knowledge and experience passed through the generations, this allows Lieo Lieng Seng to hold on to its uniqueness aside from focusing on cooking with coal stoves and making healthy food which includes dim sum, Chinese raw fish (Hue Sae) served with sweet and spicy sauce, Chinese steamed rice noodle roll with crab meat, roasted goose legs with noodles, baked rice with crab meat in clay pot and more.

113 opposite of Chao Por Heng Jia Shrine (Tai Sia Huk Chou Shrine) by the junction Tel: 080 555 1454 Open daily: 10:15am-10:30pm

Yim Yim Restaurant

Yim Yim is one of the pioneering restaurants in Yaowarat. For over 100 years, this always crowded restaurant guarantees delicious food since each dish was priced only at B1 up until B200-400 in present time. Its current owner is more than 80 years old whose father was the founder. Now his grandchildren help run the business, namely the third generation. Most customers are returning and in the age of senior.

Located on the second floor of the building, electric stairlifts are provided on the steep stairway. The most talked-about menu is the cold goat skin wrapped ham. Recommended menus include bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

structures made of wood. Round marble tables and stools are similar to the ones from typical retro ‘coffee meeting’ in early mornings among the seniors of Chinatown. Locals call this place, Kim Chuan.

Chinese sashimi, fried shrimp ball, fish maw soup, fish head hot pot, steamed fish in plum soup, sauteed noodles with chicken or mushroom and shrimp, and last but not least, fried oysters in egg patty. 2F Tang Jai Yu Restaurant, 89 Soi Yaowapanich, Yaowarat Rd. Tel: 02 224 2205, 02 224 2203 Open daily: 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm www.facebook.com/yimyim.restaurant

Tia Yong Lee coffee

Drinks are served in a glass, a vintage style bag or a jug, for only B10, B15 and B20. Levels of sweetness can be customised. The only food menu that they have is soft and hard-boiled eggs, two for B15. Chinese tea is complimentary. Unique menus are Nor Kao Yen or dirty coffee, mixed with tea, and Jam Ba or sparkling coffee with soda. Lam Sai, Lam Luk Ka, Pathum Thani Tel: 088 001 7988 Open daily: 6am-6:30pm

This coffeehouse is more than a century old and built farther away from the city inside Khlong 12 marketplace. Tia Yong Lee specialises in house roasted coffee beans by old school method. Road transport now replaced water transportation, but the canal view stays. Khlong 12 market flourished when people travelled by boat. As commercial buildings and the wet market appeared outside, they started to move away leaving the area quiet through time. Both the initial exterior and interior design of the cafe are preserved, with most of the bangkok101.com

Ju Jow Chinese Stewed Duck

Located in Ladprao, Ju Jow has prolonged the legendary duck and goose stewing recipe for over three generations. The secret

is using the same stock since the beginning which adds more flavours from duck after duck and one goose after another. The sweet and savoury stock is original Chinese Teochiew style, using Nguan Soon spice only available in Chinatown. The seasoning is renewed weekly for consistent freshness, concentration and aroma.

Apart from the stewed duck, a few more signature menus include stewed goose and goose served with extra garnish. Other recommended dishes are stewed duck served with Chinese kale, duck served with crispy rice vermicelli, stewed intestine, savoury boneless Thai carp broth, extra-ingredient Thai omelette, chicken with creamy lemon sauce, pork hock served with Chinese steamed bun, red sauce abalone, shark fin, liquor marinated chicken, pickled lime duck wings, XO sauce sauteed scallops, Japanese kurobuta pork sauteed with black pepper, crispy salmon krapao, sablefish steamed in soy sauce, curry sauteed crabmeat and moon spring rolls. Desserts feature Thai rice balls in ginger tea, boiled gingko in milk, and wine palm’s seed and coconut in fresh milk. The stewed duck is sold whole and in three different sizes of plate and prices. 75 Satriwithaya Soi 10 Rd. Yaek 3 Tel: 02 539 7255 Open: Mon 9am-3pm, 5pm-7pm, Tue 11am-1pm, 5pm-8pm, Wed 9am-1pm, 5pm-7pm, Thu 10am-2pm, 4pm-6pm, Fri 10am-1pm, 3pm-7pm, Sat 10am8pm, Sun 9am-7pm NOV/DEC 2019 | 23

CITY PULSE | into the hood

Into the Hood: Charoen Krung A dynamic melting pot in a new-old neighbourhood

o most Bangkokians, Charoenkrung Road, meaning ‘prosperity of the city,’ has long been synonymous with trading companies, jewellery, gold and silver merchants whilst also houses many European consulates. Stretching almost 9km in length, it dissects Bangkok from the Rattanakosin island, continues into Bangrak and ending in Bang Kho Laem. It was Bangkok’s first major road, built around 1860 during the reign of King Rama IV heralding in

the shift from water to road. Many traditional Chinese-influenced food stalls and restaurants have remained fond favourites for Thais but off the main route, new hip hangouts have sprung up alongside some of the finest dining available options. Beginning at the southern end of the road, walking north, our first stop is easily identified by a crowd who throng in front of Tuang by Chef Yip (1), eagerly awaiting their fluorescent pink numbered tags for the affordable dim sum foodie mecca famed for their lava buns. Chris is a former Michelin Guide Inspector, Continuing a short walk to following an international career in the junction of Trok Chan, Khao hospitality spanning 30 Tom Pla Kimpo (2) serves up its years in both the Middle finest boiled rice soup with fish. East and Asia, has now Further down, under the bridge settled in Thailand and and across Sathon road, turn left contributes to ‘Into up the side of Robinsons and on the Hood’ column in the right, we find Kanom Krok Bangkok 101. Pa Aew (3), a stall open only IG: xmichelinman in the evenings renowned for 24 | NOV/DEC 2019

8 traditional crunchy flour shelled sticky coconut milk with a hint of salt. Sitting opposite is Thip Volcanic Fried Mussel & Oyster (4) with their signature crispy fried plump molluscs. Returning to the eastern side of the main road, one finds the unassuming Thotman Guangdong (5) for unrivalled Cantonese buns while a few steps further, Prachak (6), the now fourth generation family have been serving all things duck. Nearby is another fellow legend, Jok Prince (7) for world-class congee, but get there early! Opposite Soi 44 contains the sparkling gems of Baan Phad Thai (8), somewhat self-explanatory and the newbies of Homu (9) for owner Ying’s take on Japanese confections and Sarnies (10) with its Asian style brunch dishes. Back on the main road, sample the mouth-watering egg sponge cakes cooked by the ever-present, always smiling lady at Kanom bangkok101.com

into the hood | CITY PULSE

Kai Pa Sri (11). Continue on to Lebua State Tower, where Ryuki Kawasaki delivers his classic hometown Niigata Murakami Wagyu Beef A5 grilled over Bincho charcoal at the two Michelin starred Mezzaluna (12). The same majestic tower is also home to the recently launched Chef’s Table (13), where Vincent Thierry, a previous holder of three Michelin ‘gongs’ serves up his signature French classics with a nod to Asia such as King Crab Tiramisu. How many stars will he be awarded this year? One is now temptingly close to The Oriental hotel, which also houses two great restaurants. The first, Le Normandie (14), a two

12 9

2 Chan Rd 4

7 12 13

Charoen Krung Rd

Robinson Department Store

Charoen 3 Krung Soi 50

Charoen Krung Soi 44

Si Wiang Charoen Krung Soi 40

Charoen Krung Soi 38

14 15

18 Soi 43

19 20

Charoen Krung Soi 32

Charoen Krung Soi 28 24 Charoen Krung Soi 26 bangkok101.com

Michelin starred temple of French gastronomy where one can enjoy Arnaud Dunand Sauthier’s sublime speciality of caviar, sea urchin and potato. Also nestled within this grand dame is the Terrace Rim Naam (15), where Chef Pom whose signature Garoupa fish curry is a must-try. Another addition is the recently launched Supanniga Eating Room Charoenkrung by Khunyai located on Charoenkrung Soi 38 (16), walking distance from BTS Saphantaksin skytrain. Amble past the landmark Grand Postal Building (17) and continue to the next junction, one head right along alley 43 and in the next lane, visit Hei Jii (18), meaning black chicken in Chinese, a hip venue where you may enjoy chocolate and coffee. Alternatively, turn left into alley 32 and almost at the end of the road, is Someday Everyday (19); David Thomson and Prin

21 Polsuk’s, value for money curry and rice canteen, while next door, Maison Chatenet (20) offering up super croissants. Right at the end of this soi is Warehouse 30 (21), the brainchild of Duangrit Bunnag, combining Thai designer fashions with coffee bars, art spaces and real food in a cleverly haphazard layout. Returning to the main road, our journey is at an end with three super trendy venues; Little Market@Tropic City (22), equally loud pink flamingoes and green neon announce its location and probably the best burger in town! Close by lies Jua (23) where Chet Adkins helms this uber fun izakaya restaurant specialising in yakitori while Chefs Napol Jantraget and Saki Hoshino serve up modern Thai dishes at 80/20 (24). New and old, side by side and it seems to me like Charoenkrung is again reinventing itself. Here’s to Charoenkrung version 2.0! NOV/DEC 2019 | 25

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Eat Me

Bangkok Pioneers Spotlighting foreign pioneers of Bangkok food scenes by Bangkok101 Team

ood scenes in Bangkok have been one of the most prevalent in the region for a long time. Known for its unique collection of local and international cuisines, in this issue, we would like to shine the spotlight on some of the foreign pioneers that have added colours and flavours to the City of Angles for over 20 years.

Eat Me Restaurant

This restaurant balances between fine-dining feel and a cosy environment both indoor and outdoor, offering a wide range of classic French cuisine and notable wine list to expats and local Francophiles for over a decade. 26 | NOV/DEC 2019

Good value for a sophisticated meal. Pipat Soi 2, Silom Rd. (20m off Convent Rd) Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

Neil’s Tavern

From carefully selected ingredients, this tavern has practised decades of signature old-style charcoal steak grilling and secret marinating recipe. For non-beef eaters, Grilled Lamb Rack and Lobster Thermidor are also recommended. 58/4 Soi Ruam Ruedi Tel: 02 256 6874 Open daily: 11:30am-1:45pm; 5:30pm10:30pm www.neil.co.th

L’Opera Italian Restaurant Established in 1983, L’Opera is one of the first Italian restaurants in Bangkok food scene originally catered to the Italian gourmands, politicians, aristocrats for both dining occasions and business meetings. 53 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 258 5606 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm, 6pm10:30pm www.lopera-bangkok.com

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar

Founded as a restaurant and bar in 1986, Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar was the only destination for authentic Cajun and Creole cuisine in Bangkok. Run bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Neil’s Tavern

Bawarchi Indian Restaurant

New Bukhara’s

Olive Bangkok

Royal India

by Doug Harrison, the restaurant features many Louisiana dishes such as the famous blackened fish, Gumbo, Jambalaya and more are served with New Orleans-style hospitality and Thai charms.

New Bukhara’s

emphasising on signature dishes and unique product offerings.

Offering vegetarian and nonvegetarian Northern Indian cuisine since December 1997, New Bukhara’s achieved a reputation of being one of 9/39-40 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai) the most consistent Indian Tel: 02 381 6801 restaurants in Bangkok with Indian www.bourbonstbkk.com chefs in house. While priding itself with offering robust Indian Mrs Balbir’s Indian flavours, the level of spiciness can Restaurant be adjusted according to personal This charming Indian restaurant has preferences. grown into more than eight outlets 121 Sukhumvit Between Soi 5-7 Tel: 02 253 6265 in Bangkok since its establishment Open daily: 11am-11:30pm in 1975. The vegetarian owner, www.facebook.com/pg/ Vinder Balbir, is an experienced NewBukharasIndianRestaurant in-flight meal consultant for Thai Airways, Indian guest chef to hotels Bawarchi Indian and on television, and cooking Restaurant instructor for many celebrity This award-winning Indian chefs. She has a cooking school that teaches various ethnic cuisine restaurant with royal ambience has been using original recipes cooking lessons. 155/1-2 Sukhumvit Soi 11/1 reconstructed to be appealing Tel: 02 651 0498 in look, taste and texture since Open daily: 11:30am-10:30pm 1998. Locals and expats come for www.mrsbalbirs.com Mughlai and North Indian cuisine bangkok101.com

BF, 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 061 814 0022, 061 814 0088 Open daily: 11am-4am www.bawarchiindian.com

Olive Bangkok

Inspired Greek and Mediterranean is this bistro’s speciality. Opened in 2002, deli bar delivery service is now available. The menu features meze, soup and salad, grill specials, house specials, platters, wraps, pasta, and dessert. The interior resembles a cosy Mediterranean home with Greekstyle white wooden chairs. 37/1 Sukhumvit Soi 63 (Ekkamai) Tel: 02 713 1112 Open daily: 11am-10pm www.facebook.com/olivebangkok

Royal India

Royal India is the first Indian restaurant in Thailand, opening around 45 years ago and serving the local Indian community. The NOV/DEC 2019 | 27

CITY PULSE | best of bkk

Cabbages & Condoms Bangkok

Gianni Ristorante

Aoringo Nihonmura

Bei Otto

Izakaya Hanako

first branch which has won several awards is located in Bangkok’s little India or Phaurad. The chef cooks authentic homely Indian dishes containing spices imported from India. Drinks such as Lassi and Masala tea are also popular.

10 Sukhumvit Soi 12 Tel: 02 229 4610 Open daily: 11am-10:30pm www.cabbagesandcondomsbkk.com

Patron Gianni Favro oversees every aspect that contributes to the overall production.

392/1 Chakraped Rd. Tel: 02 221 6565 Open daily: 10am-10pm www.royalindiathailand.com

Cabbages & Condoms Bangkok

The quirky restaurants and resorts have as much to do with cabbages as with condoms. It operates as a ‘Business for Social Progress’, and all profits support The Population & Community Development Association (PDA) and its programmes in primary health, education, HIV/AIDS, rural development, environment and water, etc. It all started with a vegetable stand on PDA office premises and the Thai restaurant in Bangkok is decorated with condoms as well as handing out some at the end of the meal. 28 | NOV/DEC 2019

Aoringo Nihonmura

Famous for flavourful homemade Japanese curry, Aoringo is a casual eatery that has long been known in Bangkok for Rakkyo and Fukujintsuke to eat alongside the rich curry; different from what many other places provide. The coffee jelly with milk is another signature. There is no service charge or VAT and many stars have dined here. 582/11 Sukumvit Soi 63 Tel: 02 065 5369 Open daily: 11am-2:30pm; 5pm-9pm www.facebook.com/aoringoeakamai

Gianni Ristorante

The Gianni Ristorante has been operating since 1996. It is located in a courtyard with its own wine cellar of at least 250 Italian labels in the collection. The décor inside has a Mediterranean-bluesy feel with a painted mural wall. Chef/

34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 252 1619 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm; 6pm-10pm www.facebook.com/GianniBangkok

Bei Otto

Known as the German Institution situated in the heart of Bangkok, Bei Otto is now more than 30 years old. Mr Otto Duffner established this simple restaurant with the addition of event room, catering services, bakery, delicatessen, cafe and traditional German butcher. It has a Middle German farmhouse atmosphere. 1 Sukhumvit Soi 20 Tel: 02 260 0869 Open daily: 11am-12am www.beiotto.com

Izakaya Hanako

Hidden in the soi, this Japanese Izakaya has Japanese clients returning for more than 27 years. There are separate sections for smokers and nonsmokers, suitable bangkok101.com

best of bkk | CITY PULSE

Hanaya

Zanotti Il Ristorante Italiano

Philippe

for business get-togethers and small social gatherings. The food and sake provision is of quality.

chicken masala. Mr Cha Cha or the father spent more than 40 years travelling and gaining culinary experiences from around the world before opening this restaurant. It is now run by his son, Kovit Sarcar. Mughal arches and rattan seatings can be spotted.

19 5-6 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 255 2057 Open daily: 5:30pm-1am instagram.com/izakaya.hanako

Hanaya

Hanaya is a pioneering Japanese restaurant in Bangkok that was established in 1976. The restaurant serves both set and a la carte menus, well-liked for sushi and sashimi. The classic yet casual ambience attracts business clientele, especially during lunchtime. 683 Si Phraya Rd. Tel: 02 233 3080 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm; 5:30pm10pm www.facebook.com/Hanaya1976

Himali Cha Cha

Himali Cha Cha & Sons now has three branches since the business first started in 1979. House specialities include mutton barbecue, chicken tikka, and bangkok101.com

1229/11-12 Charoen Krung Soi 47/1 Tel: 02 238 1478 www.himalichacha.com

Zanotti Il Ristorante Italiano

Chef Gianmaria Zanotti founded this restaurant in 1998 which has later been recognised as a reference point for business lunches and dinners for any occasion. Ingredients and recipes are from Northern Italy. Pasta is made daily by a team of Italian chefs that prioritise culinary tradition and good wine. 24 Chan Soi 43 Yaek 45 Tel: 02 636 0002 Open daily: 11:30am-2pm; 6pm10:30pm www.zanotti-ristorante.com

Pan Pan

A familiar restaurant serving family-oriented style Italian food in a warm comfortable atmosphere since 1976. Pan Pan restaurant offers a wide range of pasta menus and other dishes to choose from, outstanding tuna salad and Italian sausage served with fresh crispy thin Italian pita. 6, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 33 Tel: 02 258 5071 Open daily: 11am-11pm

Philippe

This upscale French restaurant is curated by Chef Philippe Peretti from Corsica who has worked in multiple professional kitchens abroad, helped with the royal food and beverage menu, and set airline meal. The romantic vibe makes Philippe a perfect destination for dinner dates and quiet gatherings. 20/15-17 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Tel: 02 259 4577 Open: Tue-Sun11:30am-2:30pm; 6:30pm-10:30pm www.philipperestaurant.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 29

Photo by Goethe-Institut

SNAPSHOTS | now new next

Jitti Chompee

A man’s journey from choreography and performing arts to cultural festivals has transformed right before our eyes

ometimes a person’s professional paths can take several twists and turns like dance movements. Jitti Chompee or Oh, founder and choreographer of 18 Monkeys Dance Theatre and director of Unfolding Kafka Festival, has his career metamorphosed into a series of altered states, like his performances. Jitti recalled, “At first I studied Chemical Technology Science at Chulalongkorn University. When

30 | NOV/DEC 2019

I graduated at 20, being a good student and wanting to have a good job and a high salary, I continued my master in Chemical Engineering. However, I met David Shields and later William Morgan, both ballet masters, with whom I learned classical ballet. As truly excellent teachers, they didn’t only teach good dance techniques but also knew a lot about the history of dance, the background, and the causes and effects of

movements. They really inspired me to dance.” “Then I enrolled at the Jean M Wong School of Ballet in Hong Kong for a summer. Later I was introduced to contemporary dance by a masterful Professor Michael Diekamp, who offered me to study at the Palucca University of Dance in Dresden, Germany, for one year. He wanted me to receive the style of education that fits me. But because of my physical type and energetic personality, I decided to go to New York so I could learn about myself and my possibilities. I first auditioned at the Ailey School where I studied for two years.” Jitti continues, “Afterwards I went to Paris to be exposed to other contemporary dance styles and took many opportunities to see good performances and good artists. At first, I just wanted to be a freelance dancer and had more chances to do different projects over there. But it wasn’t easy so I decided to return home. Coincidentally, I met Sarawanee Tanatanit, formerly with American Ballet Theatre, with whom I danced in a duet for a celebration. Then in 2007, we started to choreograph a modern dance piece “Remember… What You Have Done in 24 Hours?” at Patravadi Theatre. It was quite successful. In 2009, I choreographed an opera production ‘Carmen’ for Alliance Française Bangkok. Finally, it made me think that choreography is another challenge for me and I really want to continue my own work. So in 2010 I developed and created a company.” Jitti states, “18 Monkeys Dance Theatre was suggested by Pawit Mahasarinand, then a professor of Dramatic Arts at Chulalongkorn University and a former director of Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre to establish a dance company in Thailand. The first 18 Monkeys company’s production premiered bangkok101.com

Photo by 18monkeysdancetheatre

now new next | SNAPSHOTS

at Patravadi Theatre. Then in 2011 it went on tour to George Town Festival in Penang, Malaysia, and in 2016, Daniel ‘Pipi’ Piazzolla, grandson of Astor Piazzolla, the famous tango music composer, invited my company to perform with his ensemble at Teatro San Martin in Buenos Aires, Argentina, and also in Columbia and Mexico. “I was invited to participate in many international dance festivals such as Festival Tanztendenzen 2014 in Greifswald, Germany, and CaDance Festival 2017 in The Hague, the Netherlands. In 2013, Institut Français de Fès awarded me the residency artist programme in Fez, Morocco, where I premiered ‘Tightrope Walker’ and again at Cité Internationale des Arts, Paris 2014, supported by the French Embassy Thailand and Institut Français. In 2015, I was the guest choreographer for ‘Les Pêcheurs de Perles’ by the Nederlandse Reisopera.” Jitti muses, “I get inspirations from literature, cinema, travel, watching performances and working with diverse styles of dancers. I am driven by the theatrical use of traditional bangkok101.com

Khōn masks in combination with physical and gestural movements, literature interpretation and interactions among various media of arts. I reinterpret the narrative themes and cultural identity of Thai mythology into my dance vocabulary. In my development process, I love to create on a basis of freedom by eliminating the limitations between the comfort zone of the dancers and myself. My choreography explores the possibilities of human transformation. The notion of animalism and the extension of the dancers’ physicality are prominent in my work through distorted images and mismatched bodies similar to Picasso’s Cubism. “Creating each piece takes a long time. I don’t force them out but let them evolve more and more. I develop my works through photography and scenography. The whole scene from photos is transformed into a live performance. I also prefer using various sites to regular theatres with a proscenium. Most theatres here are either too large or too small. This shows how I understand architecture and

landscape and adapt these sites and spaces in the best possible way. My dedicated audience also expects to observe these pieces at different venues. So each piece when performed becomes sitespecific and it saves production costs. Moreover, the audience is engaged and encouraged to diversify their perceptions of arts and their background differently.” Jitti explains, “My company is almost 10 years old so the more I learn and have international experiences, the more I become convinced that my works and festival have to be relevant to our contemporary reality. Even though sometimes it’s hard to comprehend my interpretations, dark humour and animal characters, the surrealistic world in my performances leave more room to create and interpret. These stories are often open without a clear ending which perfectly fit into ideas behind abstract and conceptual art. And I always believe that when art is accessible and relevant, it can contribute to gradually change our society by questioning our understanding of the past, but NOV/DEC 2019 | 31

also by revealing a raw vision of the essence of humanity and by connecting people to their contemporary reality.” “The piece I’m most proud of is ‘Red Peter’ which evolved through several scenography. There’s no fakes because the actions are real. The dancers performed without music and in the soil with dirt and all but they created fantastic visuals. One of the performers, Benjamin Tardif, who was trained in Khōn dance drama and had no contemporary dance background at all, achieved a high level of performance in this. It was firstly created in The Hague, the Netherlands, under the support of the Kylián Foundation, founded by Jiří Kylián, a world-renowned Czech dancer and choreographer. The premiere went successfully and I’m grateful and honoured to receive this grant. “Another piece that I love is ‘Party Animal’ because it’s a genuine dance with exceptional and talented young dancers. We used very simple and minimal music. The performers had to 32 | NOV/DEC 2019

Photo by Sareena Sattapon

SNAPSHOTS | now new next

apply rhythm to their timing and space to be very precise— neither more nor less. There’s no improvisation. The movements build up to the last moment so they will give better impressions. Our rehearsals are like experiments that I collect the data and choose the best results which are the best moments. So each piece evolves through the process of thinking, without preparation.

My operative mode becomes automatic and performances happen organically like drawing spontaneously. It’s now not later. My problem with working is that I don’t want to be uninterested. I get bored if it’s not challenging enough. I will only release my works when it flows, not stuck. With choreography and directing the festival, I have achieved what I have attempted to give Thailand, bangkok101.com

now new next | SNAPSHOTS

the best performing art stages. I have never struggled much except that I may quit doing this if I get bored or find other things to challenge myself more.”

“...when quality prevails, only the good works will survive.” “In 2015 we presented the concept of folding and unfolding human bodies and materials. In 2017, the concept was about identity and gender. This year’s theme is ‘Kafka Zoo’ because Kafka used many animal species as characters and symbols, like one big zoo. We want to give the audience new perspectives of looking at animals and being looked at. For our third instalment, I visited many festivals and was speechlessly inspired by many artists. I want bangkok101.com

Photo by Juan Carlos Toledo

Photo by 18monkeysdancetheatre

Jitti has conceived and directed the Unfolding Kafka Festival, a biennial event of visual and performing arts since 2015. He enthuses, “The core concept of the festival derives from ideas of Franz Kafka’s essays on fusions of things. For me, Kafka is an archetype of many people in our society, who secretly wish to be an artist and would have the potential, but they would rather have more traditional lives because of several factors and preconceived ideas. It’s such a pity! Kafka mainly worked as a lawyer for an insurance company in Prague but indeed wrote many stories. I don’t believe in his choice of profession. Although he lived this ‘double life,’ he found his own unique style and became a genius artist. As an artist myself, either in the local or international context, the key is to be your true self, not a copy of someone else.

Photo by 18monkeysdancetheatre

“...the key is to be your true self, not a copy of someone else…”

to share them with the local audience so they can watch and experience the best pieces too. We have non-traditional circus performers from France. ‘Des Gestes Blancs’ is about shifting relationships between a father and his son, which reflects the ones of Kafka and his father’s. It took me two years to select to give the whole story a good balance. When we provide works of high quality, the audience appreciates them. This proves that when quality prevails, only the good works will survive.” Jitti concludes, “Education is of the essence. It’s my dream to establish a conservatoire for traditional, classical and modern dance in both eastern and

western styles. This institution will nurture and improve talents and opportunities to create good dancers and eventually stars. If we develop to a higher standard, we can convincingly have a national dance company. “I also want to focus on the history of our traditional performing arts. I’m interested in Khōn masks for their shapes, sizes, periods, genders of dancers, physical factors such as the skull sizes and performers’ diet. Through research, they tell stories of colours, material details, styles of dances, the evolution of figures and court protocols. This knowledge from history will help us understand our origins and roots for the future generation.”

NOW NEW NEXT

Tom Waller’s “The Cave” Hits Bangkok Cinemas Thai-Irish director wins the race to turn the astonishing Thai cave rescue story into a film

hether it came from his Irish Catholic father and the years spent at a Benedictine monastery boarding school in Yorkshire, England, or the influence of a Thai mother who founded a successful line of independent clothing shops in Chiang Mai, Tom Waller’s career shows a remarkable sense of drive and discipline. After attending the Northern Film School in Leeds in 1995, he started his own film production company, DeWarrenne Pictures, the following year and produced and directed his debut film Monk Dawson (1998), an ambitious made-for-TV movie based on the award-winning novel by Piers Paul Read about a young priest who discovers romantic love and betrayal. In 2002, Waller returned to the city of his birth, Bangkok, where he began working as a line producer for local and international film productions in Thailand. Among the more notable were Butterfly

34 | NOV/DEC 2019

Man (2002), Ghost of Mae Nak (2005), The Elephant King (2006), and Soi Cowboy (2008), which was screened at the Cannes Film Festival in Un Certain Regard. After co-producing three more international films, Waller yielded to his filmmaking passion to direct Mindfulness & Murder (2011), his Thai-language directorial debut. The film, about a retired police detective who, as a Buddhist monk, uses his investigative background to solve a temple murder, was nominated for five Thailand National Film Association Awards, including Best Picture and Best Director. That same year Waller’s company served as local producer for Hollywood action thriller Elephant White starring Kevin Bacon. The filmmaker followed this with another turn in the director’s chair for The Last Executioner (2014), a dark biopic about Thailand’s last prison executioner. The film won the prestigious Tukkata Tong or

Golden Doll, Thailand’s equivalent of the Oscars, for Best Picture and Best Screenplay. Waller’s biggest production to date came along when he was selected to serve as line producer for scenes shot in Thailand for the action blockbuster Mechanic: Resurrection (2016), starring Jason Statham, Jessica Alba and Tommy Lee Jones. Flash forward to June 2018, when Waller, who holds both Thai and British passports, was on vacation in Ireland with his wife and children. On the 23rd of June, twelve Thai boys, aged 11 to 17, and their 25-year-old football coach became trapped several kilometres deep inside Tham Luang, a long and deep cave they had been hiking through after the caverns became flooded by heavy rains. With all exits from the cave blocked, the 13 were stranded on a small ledge in a small dark cavern just above the waterline for an unbelievable 18 days. From day one forward, a coordinated emergency rescue bangkok101.com

Photo by Fredrik Divall

SNAPSHOTS | joe's bangkok

Photo by Fredrik Divall

joe's bangkok | SNAPSHOTS

operation worked around the clock trying to devise a workable strategy for getting the boys out safely. Meanwhile, a press corps of over a thousand journalists from around the world camped outside the cave, sending news reports out day and night. In the end, an ad hoc team of experienced cave divers from several different countries extracted the 13, one by one, in a bold diving rescue the likes of which had never been attempted before. Each of the boys and their coach were heavily sedated, fitted with scuba tanks, masks, and air regulators, and pulled through treacherous, pitch-black underground waterways to safety. Against the odds, all made it out alive. Afterwards, Thais called it the Miracle of Tham Luang. Obviously, the story held great potential as a Hollywood blockbuster, and a half dozen production companies around the world soon announced their intentions to make such a movie. Among them was Waller, and when he learned that one of the principal rescue divers, Jim Warny, was living in the next county over from where Waller was staying in Ireland, he decided to try and contact him. “I knew this would be an amazing story to tell on screen,” he said. “But I needed an angle. Warny, born in Belgium but working as an electrician at a Lufthansa factory in Ireland, was a bangkok101.com

passionate cave diver who, during his time off, explored water-filled caverns around the world, many of them previously unmapped and unexplored. Back in Ireland, fresh from the rescue operation, Warny was impressed with Waller’s sincerity and agreed to help the filmmaker put together a strong storyline focused on the unsung heroes of the rescue operation. While casting for the film, Waller and his producers invited actual rescue divers to portray themselves onscreen, since performing the underwater action for the cameras would be very technical, not to mention risky. In the end, four divers joined the cast: Jim Warny from Ireland, Erik Brown from Canada, Mikko Paasi from Finland, and Tan Xiaolong from China. Two other cast members also reprised roles they played during the rescue in real life: Todd Ruiz, an American editor from Khaosod English who reported live from the scene at Tham Luang, and Phu Yai Tan, a Thai waterworks engineer who brought in and operated powerful water pumps to help bring water levels in the caverns down.

“Although this is a Thai movie in the sense that I’m Thai and my production company is locally registered, we’re positioning it in the market as an international film,” says Waller. “The rescue team was international, and the story belongs to the world,” he says. “I hope that anyone who was riveted to news sources over the 18 days the boys were trapped a year ago will find the film inspiring.” When released on YouTube the first week of September, the film’s teaser-trailer quickly garnered nearly two million views. Many Thais who commented on the clip said they wept during the trailer, and expected to weep again when the movie opens in Thailand this month. The Cave (titled Nang Non in the Thai language) had its world premiere at the prestigious Busan International Film festival last month, followed by screenings at the Vancouver International Film festival, BFI London Film Festival, and Byron Bay International Film Festival. The film will be released in Thailand cinemas on Thursday 28 November 2019.

Joe’s Bangkok Award-winning writer Joe Cummings created the first Lonely Planet Thailand guidebook and later became deputy editor for the Bangkok Post magazine. NOV/DEC 2019 | 35

SNAPSHOTS | very thai

It’s an understudied aspect of human nature that under fairy lights our senses twinge with primaeval memories: fireflies, stars, phosphorescence, moonlight on rippling water. The ambient aura evokes the closeness and companionship when only candles and coconut oil lamps held gloom at bay. To rural folk fairy lights seem modern; to urbanites they flash back to a rural sense of wonder. To all, light has a spiritual quality. Thais donate candles to monks, not just for ritual, but also as a symbolic aid to scripture study. Illumination for both eye and mind’s eye. Light lends prestige, so the more you emit the brighter your prospects, the greater the tribute to those you welcome and worship. Hence the myriad tiny lamps swathing portraits of monarchy, images of Buddha and most spirit houses. Because of their classy connotations, fairy lights are a quick fix in cases of pak Brightening the night with twinkling bulbs and chee roei naa (garnishing fluorescent tubes the mundane with parsley). Faced with a dreary stall, a his honour in the fight intense tracery that looks like, tawdry bar, a dingy restaurant, against light pollution to a satellite, the typical outdoor there’s no need to call in décor didn’t gratify in a land restaurant. Each fairy-lit eatery is a consultants; buy up strings of where light isn’t just bright, miniature galaxy. bulbs from any local store at but right. Light confers beauty, Food, service and music being 30 baht a metre. Coloured or wisdom, prestige. relatively equal, what makes you plain; flickering, pulsing or still; What Thailand wants in select where to eat? Call it the outlining architecture or writing wattage, it makes up for in bulbs, fairy light factor. One string lamely out words–all call attention to with each fairy light playing a slung from a dust-encrusted something otherwise plain. Same crucial role. Viewed from space, tarpaulin? Any port in a storm. deal with the tuk-tuk, where the superpowers sear the eye, Multicolour flashes pulsing in brake lights and indicators are while Thailand gently twinkles. sequence along architectural joined by starbursts of green, On earth as it is in heaven, the outlines? Cheap and cheerful. A blue and pink. When shops and coast and highways appear as tree impersonating a chandelier? stalls need passing trade, fairy strings of festival lights, Bangkok’s Classy and relaxing. lights say “buy from me”.

Fairy Lights & Neon Tubes

> Very Thai

River Books by Philip Cornwel-Smith with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith B995 36 | NOV/DEC 2019

“Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture” is a virtual bible on Thai pop culture and an influential must-read among foreigners and Thais. It guides you on an unconventional technicolor tour of the quirky things that make Thailand Thai. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic and snap up a copy of the new edition at any good bookshop. bangkok101.com

Koh Libong, Trang

TRAVEL 101 FOUR SEASONS RESORT KOH SAMUI A proper tribute to the ocean’s bounty, Pla Pla (meaning ‘many fish’) at Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui presents an all-new menu highlighted by ‘0-kilometre seafood and premium meat cuts. Located on the beach, the restaurant lends a perfect setting for a beachside lunch or dinner and also offers special weekly dining events. Please contact 077 243 000 or email KOH.Food.&.Beverage@fourseasons.com for more information and reservation. WEEKEND EVENTS IN HUA HIN Weekend relaxation is vital to all hardworking people of Bangkok. This unwinding regimen involves delectable food with refreshing free-flow cocktails designed and served up by the master mixologist. Azure Bar, InterContinental Hua Hin Resort and Vana Nava Sky, Holiday Inn Resort present a two-hour free-flow with a VIP Welcome “Bubbles & Party” and VIP seatings and services. Group VIP event pass is also available. Prices range from B1,850 net per person for a one-day pass or B3,499 net per person for a two-day pass. A la carte options also available upon request. Vananavahuahin.holidayinnresorts.com

TRAVEL | up country escape

Koh Libong & Koh Mook Beyond the Shores of Trang Archipelago

by Vittoria Dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Anna, Arlei Lima, Mario Rossi

40 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

up country escape | TRAVEL

rriving at the small Trang airport, it’s easy to find a way to reach your preferred island. The car ride to the right pier is not long and a long tail boat will take you to one of these isles. Koh Libong is the biggest island of the cluster and it’s famous for dugongs, a kind of rare sea cow. You can find them here because their habitat of shallow seagrass forest still flourishes. Up until some decades ago, local people used to eat them, but now they try to protect the remaining specimens by limiting boat access to the dugong observation area. However, the chances of an encounter are quite rare. The right timing according to the tide and the dry season is advised, especially from November to March. We searched for them in the swamp water with the boat engine turned off, still to no avail. The first thing that Koh Libong has to offer is certainly the wonderful white beaches. And with some spirit of adventure, you can get to know the local way of living. The majority of the very friendly population is Muslim who lives in a few fisherman villages by the sea and the forest. We visited the Southern island of Koh Lao Liang, which belongs to Mu Koh Phetra National Park, on a fisherman’s longtail boat with his wife and young son. When he took us to the marvellous white sand beach with clear water, his wife was catching shellfish on the rocks on the opposite side of the island. The water there was very deep, dark and full of pink jellyfish bigger than my head. After a couple of hours, she filled the basket with shellfish and returned to the boat with a big smile, totally safe from nasty jellyfish stings.

bangkok101.com

NOV/DEC 2019 | 41

TRAVEL | up country escape

Back on Koh Libong, the fisherman started foraging on the shore under the tree’s roots. He found ‘Hua Toy Yai’ (Hua Kloy Yai), a type of plumber the locals use to make flour. Once he collected a good amount, his wife peeled, mashed and sun-dried them for two days before declaring the flour was ready. It is usually cooked with coconut milk to make desserts or a kind of sweet coconut jelly or ‘Kanom Guan.’ Another great discovery for the palate was the water apple: perfectly rounded and green fruit that is soft and juicy inside. These are generally found in numerous street booths. People would harvest these fruits using long bamboo poles with a small

net attached since the fruits are usually ripened high up in the trees. There’s so much more to discover on the beautiful island other than trying to catch a glimpse of the beautiful dugongs in their natural habitats. However, the recent suspicious dugongs’ deaths caused some concern that the peaceful animals are being hunted for their hide. Obviously hunting endangered species like dugong is forbidden and the locals are doing all they can to help raise awareness and create a safe environment to co-exist with these marvellous animals. The best thing we can do is to help create more sustainable tourism activities so that

Koh Libong series by Utopic Food; all the episodes are available on Youtube: www.youtube.com/channel/UC2TEkD7nBII88axc6WWT1UA 42 | NOV/DEC 2019

everyone, including the future generations, may enjoy the breathtaking nature and animals for years to come.

How to get there: Train: approximately 15 hours from Hua Lamphong station Bus: approximately 11 hours from the Southern Terminal Flight: approximately 1 hour 30 minutes flight then take a taxi to the pier and a long tail boat to the island Accommodation: • Andalay Beach Resort Koh Libong • Sivalai Beach Resort Koh Mook • Lao Liang Resort Koh Lao Liang bangkok101.com

P R O B A B LY O N E OF THE BEST VILLA ON THE ISLAND

NIRVANA VILLA IS FOR SALE 45M THB I Art & furnitures included Incredible view & fully renovated in 2019 Direct owner contact : info@nirvana-villa.com (no agency comission)

NIRVANA VILLA IS ALSO FOR RENT www.nirvana-villa.com

Vana Nava Sky The ultimate location in Hua Hin where comfort and play unite

Vana Nava Sky bar and Sky Deck is the signature sky bar, restaurant and observation deck on the 27th floor of Holiday Inn Resort Vana Nava Hua Hin.

60sqm glass bottomed Sky Deck is open daily from 5pm until late for guests to live in the sunset hours while sipping signature cocktails and munching on light snacks. Nightlights in the after-hours are also a treat. To highlight that even more, the chefs at Sky Gastronomy curate a special menu for guests to wine, dine and socialise from 5pm onwards. The food is also created to pair with cocktails for a complete culinary experience.

The sleek interior design by Ashley Sutton, the mastermind behind both Maggie Choo’s and Iron Fairies Bangkok, embraces elegantly curved ceilings and shell-patterned walls with mother-of-pearl inlays. The drinks menu is curated by Joseph Boroski, the mixsultant™ who is highly recognised as one of the world’s top bar consultants. From food to drinks and the view, Vana Nava Sky has them all. The

After dinner, the venue hosts DJ Nights where local and international DJs spin House, Lounge, Disco and Funk every night from 7pm to 11pm. For daytime delight, Sky Brunch happens every Sunday 9am to 5pm at the infinity-edge pool as part of the inclusive package. Vana Nava Sky at Holiday Inn Resort Vana Nava Hua Hin 27F, 129/129 Petchkasem Rd., Nong Kae, Hua Hin, Prachuap Khiri Khan 77110 | Tel: 032 809 999 | Open: Mon-Sat 5pmlate, Sun 9am-late | Email: reservations@vananavasky.com www.vananavasky.com

T A S T E

T H E

S K Y

PERFECT SPOT FOR ULTIMATE SUNDOWN VIBES Embrace the sunset at Vana Nava Sky while enjoying specialty drinks, tasty bar menu, and nightly local live DJs or stop by for a bite in your best cocktail attire. Visit us for an iconic view of Hua Hin with cool grooves and tantalizing tastes!

Call us at 032 809 999 or email to reservations@vananavasky.com

VanaNavaSky.com

Ingeborg zu Schleswig-Holstein

geborg zu Schleswig-Holstein was born in Gut Bienebek in Thumby (county Rendsburg-Eckernfรถrde). She is the granddaughter of Louisenlund foundation founder. She attended a boarding school and graduated from high school in 1976, and studied at the College of Design in Hamburg until 1981. She met Andy Warhol in Dusseldorf and lived in New York for five years, where she spent a year working in Warhol's Factory. Her large-scale abstract paintings were first exhibited in the early 1980s in New York, Southampton and Hamburg. From 1984 to 1986 she created art for the Hamburg main church of St Catherine, whose church board she belonged to. The installation inspired the Polish composer Augustyn Bloch (1929-2006) to compose the oratorio for the Schleswig-Holstein Music Festival. This resulted in a collaboration. Since 2003, she has dedicated herself to watercolour painting. Now She lives and works in Hamburg. 15 November 2019-19 January 2020

LE LINK GALLERY BKK

34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 095 591 5014 Open: Wed-Sun 12pm-6pm or by appointment call: 082 428 9664 For more information, visit www.lelinkgallery.com

facebook.com/bambangkokartmap

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

Qin Shi Huang: The First Emperor of China and Terracotta Warriors Thousands of years, in the blink of an eye by Morgan JT

48 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

museum spotlight | ART & CULTURE

tepping into the airconditioned hallway of Siwamokkhaphiman Throne Hall, Bangkok National Museum, hundreds of artefacts are showcased including ancient weapons, inscriptions, jade and gold amulets, armour and the life-sized terracotta soldiers and bronze chariot from Qin Shi Huang’s mausoleum in Xi’an, China. This is the very first time that Thailand plays host to these invaluable relics. Qin Shi Huang: The First Emperor of China and bangkok101.com

Terracotta Warriors exhibition has been sectioned into three parts: The Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC), the Han Dynasty (206-220 CE) and the Silk Road era. The best scenario for visitors is to arrive early (approximately at 8am) and get in line to purchase the tickets. Be warned that they only allow mobile phones and all visitors are only allowed to take still pictures, not video clips inside the exhibition with no flashes. Cameras are not allowed in the exhibition and for those who carry large backpacks, they must deposit

their bags at the office next to the ticket booth. The viewing slot is limited to 45 minutes and only up to 80 visitors per round. The exhibition includes over 133 artefacts. The pathway will guide the visitors to walk through Chinese craftsmanship development and evolution through the ages of the first emperor who successfully unified China’s seven kingdoms and unified various state walls into the Great Wall of China before being buried in a city-sized mausoleum guarded by thousands NOV/DEC 2019 | 49

ART & CULTURE | museum spotlight

of the terracotta soldiers. There’s no doubling back should you walk pass each section of the exhibition so make sure you spend your time wisely inside. It also covers a wide range of topics including the ancient warrior’s equivalent of hi-tech weaponry in its time, Chinese imperial rule to the Silk Road era where cultures, languages and money are exchanged. The stars of the show, of course, are the four life-sized terracotta warriors airlifted straight from Xi’an, the subterranean complex in the ancient capital itself. They are housed in two glass displays together with other artefacts. These are only four of the 8,000 discovered accidentally in 1974. 50 | NOV/DEC 2019

The construction of the mausoleum and the terracotta troops took an upward of 38 years to complete where the future Emperor of China was only a young king of 13 years old ruling over his region. Do not expect the Greek and Roman God-like human forms statues. It seems, the base of these terracotta soldiers were the different yet unique characteristics of each person rather than the universal idealised human forms. They reflect real human beings with different facial features who lived and fought during China’s defining chapter. The message of faith regarding the concept of life after death and vanity even in the afterlife is clear. The Emperor would die at

the age of 50 years old while on an excursion to search for lifeextending elixirs. The Qin Dynasty lasted for 15 more years before it was taken over by the Han Dynasty in 206 BC. Qin Shi Huang: The First Emperor of China and Terracotta Warriors will be on exhibit until 15 December 2019 at Bangkok National Museum from 9:30am4pm from Wednesday to Sunday (closes on Monday and Tuesday). Tickets are B30 for Thai nationals and B200 for foreigners.

National Museum Bangkok 4 Na Phrathat Rd. Tel: 02 224 1370, 02 224 1402/04 www.mynmv.com

bangkok101.com

special report | ART & CULTURE

Daniel Koek and Harriet Jones

Harriet Jones as Christine

London Production of Les Miserables

The winners of the RBSO's 2019 Young Talent

Broadway in Bangkok… unplugged Debuting in Bangkok at Aksra Theatre

right international musical superstars are returning to Thailand for ‘Broadway in Bangkok...unplugged’ at the Aksra Theatre, the King Power Complex, Bangkok this November. Led by an Australian tenor Daniel Koek and Harriet Jones, a beautiful soprano from the UK who have played reputable lead roles including Jean Valjean in the original production of Les Misérables and Christine in the London production of The Phantom of the Opera. Bangkok101 caught up with them regarding what we can expect from the upcoming ‘Broadway in Bangkok...unplugged.’ bangkok101.com

Daniel Koek said about the upcoming performance and his co-performers, “Harriet and I have selected a few of our all-time favourite songs from some of the classic Broadway shows.” What’s also special about this performance is that they will be joined on stage by the winners of the RBSO’s 2019 Young Talent Sings Broadway Concert where both lead performers will work closely with to guide them. One 16-year-old girl has been chosen to perform a solo piece from ‘In the Heights’ as well. The ‘Broadway in Bangkok… unplugged’ will debut at Aksra Theatre on Saturday, 16

November 2019 at 5pm and 8pm. “The Aksra Theatre is a beautiful intimate theatre and we also have a superb technical team, too, so the stage will be awash with exciting backdrops and lighting. Should be a fun evening for all ages,” said Daniel Koek. Tickets are priced at B2,500/ B2,000/B1,500/B1,000 available at www.thaiticketmajor.com/ concert/broadway-in-bangkokunplugged-2019.html Special Stay Packages are available from B3,884 net at Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel, contact H6323-RE@accor. com or 02 680 9999. NOV/DEC 2019 | 51

Art & Culture

Photo Feature

Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld presents

ART FOR THE HEART Photo Exhibition 18 November 2019-5 January 2020

Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld presents a new art exhibition titled “Art for the Heart”, all the works are produced by students of IPC International Kindergarten and IPC Green International Preschool and Nursery. The exhibition is at the Sky Lobby on the 23rd floor of Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld. The exhibition is from 18 November 2019 to 5 January 2020 from 8am-6pm. The income raised from artwork sales and auctions will go to the “Heart Heroes” project of the Children’s Hospital Foundation. For more information please contact 02 100 1234 (ext 6753-56). Free Admission. Centara Grand and Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd.

ART & CULTURE | exhibitions

until nov 3 Balance

100 Tonson Gallery 100 Soi Tonson, Phloenchit Rd. | Tel: 02 010 5813 Open: Thu-Sun 11am-7pm | www.100tonsongallery.com Within the quiet multitudes of forest, Takanobu Kobayashi deliberately placed toy blocks on horizontal grass plane. Each block was assembled to create visual equilibrium which can be perceived and satisfied by the eye. But if one looks closely they will notice that these blocks are stacked in an impossible way to hold against gravity. Thus the artist pointed at the obvious fictional realm inside the canvas while maintaining the realistic attributes of the object.

until nov 10 The Rains

Le Link Gallery BKK 34/1 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Rd. | Tel: 095 591 5014 Open: Wed-Sun 12pm-6pm | www.lelinkgallery.com Timo von Eicken finds Hamburg as home and source of inspiration. His early Ĺ&#x201C;uvre was based on strong graphical forms before he more recently turned to figurative painting. Today, his paintings often reflect these different phases that make the images both expressive and unique. Von Eicken produces large collages of acrylic on canvas to tell stories full of paradoxes: besides graphical elements human beings appear to be the focus of the composition.

until nov 17 METABUGS-Rules are made to be broken Chinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gallery 33/58 Arden Rama III House No 58, Yannawa Rd. Tel: 086 371 6009 | Open: Wed-Sun 11am-7pm www.chinsgallery.com

Snipe1's first solo exhibition overseas is an effort to create a new one which will blame the centre of graffiti and art. Graffiti writers around the world are spreading all over the world like bugs and are constantly exploding in the underground world. When a graffiti writer goes to the art world, it is customary to change the style, but in the case of this Graffiti writer, the method of dropping the accumulated style onto the canvas as it is. 56 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

exhibitions | ART & CULTURE

until nov 17 THEY TALK

Bangkok CityCity Gallery 13/3 Sathorn Soi 1 | Tel: 083 087 2725 Open: Wed-Sun 1pm-7pm | www.bangkokcitycity.com Marking his first solo exhibition with Bangkok CityCity Gallery this October is Dusadee Huntrakul, an artist with deep-rooted imagination and yearning for an interconnected carriageway to souls. The exhibition, 'THEY TALK' penetrates the thickness of stories beyond the linearity of historic time until the gate of unknown genus becomes, again, open.

until dec 15 THRU AIR ON KEY STRINGS

S.A.C. Subhashok The Arts Centre Soi Phrom Chit, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | Tel: 02 662 0299 Open: Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-6pm facebook.com/sacbangkok Maythee Noijinda is renowned for his captivating guitaristic sound of Moderndog. He comes up with his first sound art exhibition by orchestrating his 30 years of sound design experiences, bizarre yet astonishing creativity, in order to break the wall of standardised art and music with sound artâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;an art form that utilises sound as a primary medium to create experimental outcomes, yet detached from the scope of entertaining and beautifying the listening experience.

until dec 21 GOD! I Love You, DAMN it!

Joyman Gallery 357-359 Maha Chai Rd. | Tel: 065 124 2222 Open: Tue-Sun 11am-8:30pm | joymangallery.com Assoc. Prof. Sakon Phu-ngamdee Ph.D. is one of the artists who dare to talk about social issues for creative interpretations to reflect the country that has the curtain today. He improved screening until the idea is crystallised, and communicated easily. Resulting in astonishing symbolic works, his techniques and methods are Naive art style, using sincere colours. This series acts as a recording of life stories at that time showing the beauty from intense colours, full of emotions and energy. bangkok101.com

NOV/DEC 2019 | 57

FAVOLA Italian Restaurant at Le MĂŠridien Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok Golf Resort and Spa

AROY

(means tasty)

A Multi-Sensory Pop-up Dining Experience at the Sheraton Grande Bangkok Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Bangkok is welcoming the world’s smallest chef and his 6-course menu to the restaurant table. The private dinner makes use of high-tech visual mapping, light and sound for an immersive storytelling experience. A 58mm animated chef is projected onto your plate and proceeds to ‘cook’ food in front of you. Diners must book and pay through the online booking platform only at www.lepetitchef.asia For more information, contact 02 649 8369 or email bkklc.lepetitchef@marriott.com

Gourmet Dining & Sparkling New Year Entertainment at The Okura Prestige Bangkok Authentic Gozen lunch, Kaiseki dinner and Teppanyaki menus are served at Yamazato restaurant on New Year’s Eve. Master Chef Shigeru Hagiwara also offers a jubako box of Osechi Ryori at B9,500 net with only 30 sets available. Each item is carefully chosen to symbolise good health, fertility, happiness and longevity. Orders can be placed from 1 November to 28 December 2019 or email yamazato@okurabangkok.com. The pick-up date is 31 December 2019 from 2pm to 6pm.

New Gourmet Cafe at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel A newly renovated gourmet cafe, Mocha & Muffins has been launched at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel. Open from 7am to 8pm daily, a new menu consists of freshly baked pastries, light homemade meals, ice cream and drinks. The warm and cosy space is located on the hotel’s ground floor, overlooking the courtyard garden with an open kitchen and al fresco terrace. For more information and reservation, call 02 126 8866 ext Mocha & Muffins, email mochamuffins.asia@anantara.com, or visit the website at www.siam-bangkok.anantara.com

FOOD & DRINK | kitchen backstories

The Humble Banana

ometimes the answers to difficult challenges can lie in our own backyards—and, for some, quite literally. This thought crossed my mind as I concurrently pondered the sorry state of the world—and the gluai hom banana in my hand. Is it possible this humble fruit and its plant could save us from our ourselves? First of all, it’s worth taking a step back to understand what a banana really is. A banana ‘tree’ is not a tree at all—but rather an overgrown herbaceous flowering plant. The ‘trunk’ of the plant is merely a pseudo-stem comprising bundles of leaves—the real perennial corm lying obscured underground. The fleshy yellow crescent we know as the banana is its fruit. Despite its ubiquity in South America and Africa, the native home of musa acuminata is actually right here in Southeast Asia. Thailand alone boasts 28 different species. There exists a multitude of heirloom varieties—bearing such intriguing names as niew jorakay (‘alligator’s fingers’)—and my personal favourite, p’hama haek kuk (‘Burmeseescaping-from-prison’).* Already, it’s clear that bananas are not quite as boring as we thought. So, how might bananas help save the world? First by providing us with an easily-renewable Rosalind Yunibandhu is Founder & Managing Director of Arcadia Fine Foods. She believes that food offers much more than just means of sustenance, it’s also a vehicle through which we can tell unique stories of the land, people and traditions from which it is borne. FB/IG: @arcadiafinefoods

60 | NOV/DEC 2019

source of delicious physical sustenance. Some processing, banana can further be transformed into wine, vinegar and flour. The banana flower, or hua plee, can also be blanched or boiled and enjoyed in dishes such as the classic pad thai, or gaeng liang—a hearty vegetable soup. The stem makes for a great spicy-sour salad—while leaves can be used to impart aroma in steamed and grilled dishes. Bananas may also be used as a nutritive and medicine. Being high in vitamins A and C, potassium, and carbohydrates, the ripe fruits are useful for addressing emaciation and wasting diseases. The unripe banana is also traditionally used to treat diarrhoea and peptic ulcers. The banana plant can offer us with renewable food—and environmentally-friendly packaging. Its leaves and stems have long been traditionally used as plates, trays and containers. The roots can be converted into mulch, and the fibres woven into multi-purpose twine. Finally, it can support our spiritual and emotional needs. Many Thai spiritual traditions and festivals involve the intricate folding of banana leaves as offerings. Banana stems were an endless source of play for Thai children. In a world that seems to be eternally seeking complex technologies to address the problems of the human condition, staring deep into this banana—I can’t help but think the answer lies in something much simpler. *A prisoner of Burmese descent escaped from prison, surviving only by eating lots of such bananas. Source: Dr Kanit Muntarbhorn, ‘A Food World: Q&As (Gastronomy in Asia–IV), 2016. bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | eat like nym

Som Tam Foon Talop Perfect afternoon refuelling spot

ne of my joyful moments when going to Chatuchak weekend market is the food. There are so many restaurants and one of my favourites is ‘Som Tam Foon Talop’. This joint is easy to find from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 2); turn left past the coconut ice-cream vendor, walk less than 100 metres straight, and it is on the right side of the street. That is the som tam spot I always go for in the late afternoon. It is a bit like an organised-chaos system of musical chairs. People have to wait behind those who are eating. It is worth the wait and it never took too long in my experience. What’s good here is the combination of popular Isaan food like ‘Gai Tod’, Isaan sausages, pork or beef ‘Nam Tok’, soup ‘Nor Mai’ (shredded young bamboo shoots cooked in bamboo grass) and of course, som tam. I usually order all of the above, especially ‘Som Tam poo’ together with ‘Som Tam Thai’ with Nym, as our roving roadside gourmand, she knows her local grub inside-out and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the city’s next delectable morsel. IG: nymster

62 | NOV/DEC 2019

crushed peanuts on top. ‘Som tam poo’ has a more intense flavour of chilli, lime and fish sauce and is so painfully good! But at the same time, I also like som tam Thai which offers something different with a slightly sweeter taste from palm sugar and a less aroma of fish sauce, with the freshness of lime zest they sometimes add to the dish. I love soup ‘Nor Mai’ for the softness of shredded bamboo with a little hint of herbal taste, all mixed well for a great umami taste. Their Isaan sausages have a nice sour taste perfect with the young ginger that’s served with it. This dish is popular and can be quickly out of stock. For ‘Gai Tod’, I prefer the wings. The highlight is the dip or ‘Jaew’ made from tamarind, a combination of grilled tomato, garlic and chilli, and a dash of ‘Pla-ra’ or fermented fish. This sauce could be my soup! The ‘Jaew’ here is so robust! I would dip and coat my sticky rice with all that goodness before devouring it! The menu here is quite extensive. It’s an unconventional place and is pleasing to enjoy among the chaotic yet fantastic atmosphere. Address: Som Tam Foon Talop in JJ market opens on weekends from 11am-6pm. The easiest approach is from Kamphaeng Phet MRT station (exit 2). bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | bitchin’ in the kitchen

Galloping Gourmets

Too many chefs may spoil the broth, but can a restaurant run without its leader on the premises?

“The chef is not in tonight.’’ Hands up if this scenario sounds familiar: new restaurant opens and promotes its talented, personable, Instagrammable chef, prompting you Samantha Proyrungtong, and Australianborne entrepreneur with Thai roots, founder of Bangkokfoodies.com and Bangkok Foodies OFFICIAL Facebook community who has become a well-known voice in the Bangkok culinary scene. FB: BangkokFoodiesThailand, IG: BangkokFoodies 64 | NOV/DEC 2019

to book. You wait patiently for the iconic figure to grace your tableside, only to be told that he or she is gallivanting around the world cooking for other people in other places. You return once, then twice, with anticipation, then, trepidation, to find that the Chef is still missing in action. Many of us are reduced to calling the restaurant if ‘the chef will happen to be there this evening’ like a jilted lover pining for an unrequited crush. Sounds dramatic, right? Well, if we are being completely honest, this is a sentiment shared by many foodies. Apart from feeding our petty egos with a real-life encounter with the chef whose image and delectable dishes invade our social bangkok101.com

bitchin’ in the kitchen | FOOD & DRINK

media feeds, there is a more pragmatic reason why people expect that chefs should be staying-put in their restaurants. Nianne-Lynn Hendricks, chief sub-editor of Guru Magazine/Life Bangkok Post, who in her eighteen years experience in journalism and hospitality, has seen restaurants rocket to stardom and crash and burn, put it this way: “It is very important for a chef to be in her or his restaurant, especially in its formative years. They need to be there every day of operations. There’s a lot more that goes into a restaurant than just food on the plate and if the chef is present he can also oversee the other aspects. This is if she or he wants their restaurant to succeed—as in making sure people want to come back regularly.” But is it really OK for diners and industry folks to expect chefs to be bound to the restaurant like kitchen captives, even if operations and services are tight and running smoothly? Even if the quality of food on the plate is just as good as when the chef is in the house? In October 2019, Michelin dropped a bombshell when they reduced a 3-star Michelin restaurant, The Araki, a sushi restaurant in London’s Mayfair, to total omission from the Guide. From 3 to zilch! Chef Araki moved to Hong Kong in March 2019 to set up another restaurant but was replaced by his protégé Marty Lau, who had worked alongside with him since 2015 and was acknowledged by GQ magazine as ‘phenomenally capable’. Marty Lau, in a CNN Travel article response to the results, stated, “We believed it placed Michelin in a difficult position to make a decision on how to score The Araki, as the master was here during half of the inspection period for 2020’s guide.”

Although it’s been famously debunked that Michelin doesn’t ‘rate’ chefs but rather what’s on the plates, it still seems fairly obvious from the public perspective that the chef’s constant presence has influence in terms of how a restaurant is ultimately valued, unless they are, of course, grossly famous and running restaurant empires, like Gordon Ramsey, Alain Ducasse or Thomas Keller who in total, tally-up over 30 Michelin stars amongst them. Bangkok Chef ThiTid (Ton) Tassanakajohn who has a reputation for flying around the world to embark on exciting culinary collaborations is the chef-owner of Le Du which obtained its first Michelin Star in 2019. Chef Ton told Bangkok Foodies, “From my point of view, Michelin says the star is awarded to the restaurant, not the chef. So I think it’s not about the chef being there but the question is, ‘is the chef able to manage the consistency while he/she is there or not?’ I can say my food will be the same, whether I’m here or not. I didn’t travel anywhere the first 1 and a 1/2 years after opening until I was sure I had a good enough team that I could trust.” A senior staff member from a celebrated Michelin-starred restaurant in Bangkok who preferred to remain anonymous put it very simply, “An experience with or without the chef must be the same for the guest.” Case closed. “Of course, a chef that goes away needs to always ensure that the people taking care of the restaurant are trained as he/she wants.” But he recognises that a stellar culinary experience may not be enough to meet the diner’s expectations. “Do we go to the restaurant to enjoy a food experience,” he asks, “or do we go to get a picture with the chef?”

LOCATION 20 meters off Convent Road (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom OPENING HOURS 3pm–1am Every Day Full Kitchen & Bar until 1am CONTACT T: 02 238 0931 E: reservations@eatmerestaurant.com @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant @eatmerestaurant

www.eatmerestaurant.com bangkok101.com

NOV/DEC 2019 | 65

FOOD & DRINK | review

Elements

The new era of integrated Japanese heritage and French techniques by Fha Kanch

he new Chef de Cuisine, Chef Hans Zahner has launched his Takumi multi-course seasonal tasting menu which will change every three months to favour returning guests. From Tuesday to Saturday until 30 December, the 6-course (B4,000++) and 7-course (B4,500++) options are available as well as a special dish of the evening. The 7-course set realigns the items from the 6 courses and extends for a few dishes. Premium ingredients are imported from Japan and Europe such as the Oyster Blade Japanese Wagyu.

66 | NOV/DEC 2019

One of my most-liked parts about the dinner is the amuse bouche. Tiny bites unfold the spirit of the meal and light up appetite with a dose of sparkling kombucha. Three kinds of warm housemade bread are served with classic unsalted and smoked herb with miso butter that has a similar texture to cheese. The charcoal Hokkaido milk brioche has a crusty surface and cotton soft centre. The first cold course is called Kaviari Kristal Caviar. A halfcooked and half-chilled â&#x20AC;&#x153;specialâ&#x20AC;? oyster covered in gelled cucumber

glaze comes with three separate squares of daikon radish topped with eggwhite and ponzu sauce. The oyster and the cucumber and shallot brunoise underneath should be cut into three parts to let outstanding flavours and scents of the ocean and garden mingle. The next course, Foie Gras, also blends together earthy land and briny sea. Yuzu kosho, a Japanese condiment, has a sharp taste from the rind and juice of citrus fruit. The sweetness from persimmon balances out the tartness while the foie gras and rich uni introduce a new level of creaminess. An ingredient on a plate is versatile and executed in many ways. But the next meatless course, Yasai easily allows a bundle of vegetables, taro and shiitake to speak for themselves. Likewise, the fresh glass-like Norwegian Langoustine barely needs the dressing and garnishing from kuro ninniku or black garlic, parsley and enryngii mushroom. Preceding the main course is one of the most perfectly cooked and firmly packed Sea Bass fillets I have had in Bangkok. It is enhanced by citrus, teriyaki sauce and pretty purple potatoes. The anticipated Glazed Pigeon appears in jet black coating. Not only is it stinkless but also tender. Thick miso sauce, parsnip, and cabbage pickles make it more pleasant. The dessert of Genmaicha mousse has a tropical confit surprise inside, paired with gentle sesame ice cream. Signature Okashi or Japanese influenced petit fours then conclude the meal effortlessly.

Elements 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok 57 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm www.okurabangkok.com bangkok101.com

FOOD & DRINK | review

Ruen Urai

Treasures from the sea and the river meet herbs and spices full on by Fha Kanch

ight from the start to the very last dish, the contemporary Thai cuisine at Ruen Urai precisely captured refined traditional flavours through harmony and balance. In one of the few surviving antique homes amidst tall buildings in Bangkok, homestyle cooking is meticulously plated and adorned. Similar to how the renovated golden teak wood century-old Thai house restores its charming decor and structure, the food preserves its heritage and history despite the revamping that construes this restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity. 68 | NOV/DEC 2019

The extensive menu compiles items from various regions instead of only focusing on central Thai plain. On the occasion of Christmas and New Year, Aquatic Treasures themed seasonal menu brings the latest quality gems from open-water and freshwater to the table. Limitedly available in the festive set dinner is a variation of fried morning glory salad and spicy coconut dressing topped with Hokkaido scallop. The clash of sweetness, saltiness and spiciness is enhanced by the contrasting textures of the scallop and water spinach.

The handmade brittle cup of Saengwaah Ghratong Tong (B350) with firm prawns and piquant garden herb salad is eaten in one bite. The making process of these little cups requires a high level of skill, patience and experience. They are so fragile that only a few out of each batch are perfect. Another starter and an adaptation of the classic Mieng Khum is the already assembled Mieng Bussabong (B380). Completed with chili jam, the supple lotus petals give a different tasting experience from fibrous betel leaves while the lotus seeds add extra crunchiness. bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

Lha Dtiang (B300) does not only stand out with taste but also with romantic connotations from the poem by King Rama II. As food is love and cooked by the wife, this platter takes after a pillow hunting for the bed that lovers share. The egg lattice envelope has a gentle flavour in contrast to the Thai sweetmeat stuffing which is cut in a bigger size than usual for a more substantial touch. Dtom Yum Ghai Bai Makhaam Ohn (B350) proudly presents an example of how the original spicy and sour soup of chicken should be: simple but subtle. And boiled young tamarind leaves lend some depth to the aroma. Main dishes for the upcoming season are best eaten with rice. Two types of Thai rice on offer are the fragrant Thai Jasmine rice and riceberry. Without gluten, the texture of long-grain white rice is soft yet slightly sticky whereas the bangkok101.com

deep purple riceberry is chewier on the outside. Steamed mixed seafood soufflé (B400) arrived with a generous portion of crab, fish, scallop, squid, and shrimp fillet. The chunks of seafood sunk into the soufflé. No matter how and where you cut, you will get at least one piece in every spoonful. Green curry is served with sizeable handmade clown featherback fish balls stuffed with salted egg yolks (B380). The fish balls are rolled by hand to cover whole salted egg yolks in the centre. The rich wet curry evens out saltiness from the crumbly yolk which injects more character into the delicate fish meat. Both the stir-fried river prawn claws with asparagus (B400) and the meaty blue swimmer crab paddles wok-tossed with aromatic Thai herbs (B800) explode in intense hot black pepper. Ruen

Urai’s kitchen does not hold back the herbs and spices. As highlight of the night, Grilled large river prawns are served with spicy seafood sauce (B950). The crisp and crunchy prawns with velvety fat are sourced from either Ayutthaya or Suphan Buri depending on which has superior quality at the time. A few indispensable desserts that can ease the palate are Khao Neaw Mamuang or mango with gold leafed black and white sticky rice (B180; B320) and Bua Loy Ruen Urai or homemade boiled chewy glutinous rice dumplings in coconut milk (B80) made with organic colours.

Ruen Urai The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: 12pm-11pm www.ruen-urai.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 69

FOOD & DRINK | review

Volti Ristorante and Bar

Contemporary Italian cuisine at its best at Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok by Morgan JT

ccommodating two storeys (lobby and first level) of Shangri-La Wing, Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok, Volti Ristorante and Bar offers a range of contemporary and fulfilling Trattoria-style Italian food. The off-white interior and modern decor reverberates warmth and familiarity. The open kitchen and multi-purpose oven dominate the second storey where Chef Deivid Paiva, Executive Sous Chef, presented

70 | NOV/DEC 2019

us with delectable dining experience The evening kicked off with the Burrata con pomodori da Sorrento ai tre Gusti (B520)—a large serving of fresh burrata cheese accompanied by juicy organic tomato, smoked tomato complemented perfectly with the flavours and texture of the caviar of tomato and colourful garden leaves and edible flowers which invigorate the palate, preparing the taste buds for the upcoming dishes.

Next up, the Polpo cotto lentamente con gazpacho di pomodoro, patate marinati, spuma di sedano e cetriolo confit (B480)—a cut of firm slow-cooked octopus served with savoury tomato gazpacho with marinated potato, green celery foam and cucumber confit. Followed by the Pappardelle con ragù di Agnello e porcini (B620). This, I have to say, is one of my favourite lamb pasta menus to date. Handmade Pappardelle pasta is served with 12-hour melt-in-the-mouth slow-cooked lamb meat with porcini mushroom ragout. The texture was delicate, flavours robust while the sauce accompanying the freshly crafted pasta made the dish an absolutely well-balanced menu. Next, Filletto di Manzo alla Rossini, patate, fegato scottato, e salsa ai spugnole (B1,900)— Beef tenderloin ‘Rossini style’, potatoes, pan-seared foie gras, Savoy cabbage and morel sauce. The Baba Napoletano (B270)—a delicious sponge cake soaked in Babà al rum, a citrusscented boozy syrup, served with a combination of sweet and sour berries was a perfect conclusion for the meal.

Volti Ristorante and Bar Shangri-La Hotel Bangkok Lobby and 1F, Shangri-La Wing 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 9952, 02 236 7777 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok/shangrila/ dining/restaurants/volti-ristorante-and-bar bangkok101.com

review | FOOD & DRINK

hen W Bangkok does brunch every month (B1,999++ Just for Food with coffee, tea, juices and soft drinks; B2,999++ The Experience with alcoholic beverages), it accommodates the current city lifestyle with a youthful yet tasteful buffet line and live acoustic music. Held on the first Saturday of each month from 12:30pm to 3:30pm, The Kitchen Table (2F) fits for socialising over brunch and booze, and maybe head up to WET pool party (6F) after the buzz from the sparkling drinks sets in. Kickstart with Artisan Meat & Cheese table with a parade of imported goodies. One detail that makes the cheese line here different is the truffle honey. Paired with wine (or not), fresh bread, raw and roasted greens and dressings, and cold cuts from the salad bar can complete a healthier Western option. Before digging into the heavier fare, head to Japanese corner for alternative cold appetisers. Sushi and sashimi are aligned with a roll of condiments, and chilled seafood like raw shucked oysters lay on the bed of ice ready to be enjoyed. Warm selections include creamy soup, mac and cheese and breakfast-like baked egg in avocado and baked fried eggs served in cast iron pans. Cooked seafood on steroids is also on offer: a giant pan of boiled crab and shrimp mashup. Favourites from the meat carving station are the melt-inyour-mouth salt-baked whole fish with zesty seafood sauce and sauce chien and tender braised lamb shank with mint jelly and whipped mashed potatoes. Raclette cheese wheel can be scraped on top of anything; this buffet means serious business. Not to mention the Asian delights, hot Thai and Chinese classics will give a head start of local eats. bangkok101.com

W Bangkok Saturday Brunch Saturday brunch has never been livelier

by Fha Kanch

The dining room becomes Tipsy Cow bistro from 5:30pm to 10:30pm. Special menus can be ordered during brunch hours at the table. The deep dark 8-hour slow-smoked bone-in dry-rub beef short rib meat easily slipping off the bone; the 10-hour slow-smoked dry-rub wagyu brisket showing off juicy fat; the signature wagyu chuck roll meatballs served with mac and cheese and tomato fondue; and the wiggly seared foie gras seasoned with homemade smoked salt on top of truffle-foie gras mash. Get tipsier with Woohito Mixology, Martini Bar, and the

one and only DIY Bloody Mary: green or red, spice or sauce, and toppings of your choice. Apart from the grab-andgo snack bags, the sweets represent the hotelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fashion with panna cotta in the can that can be decorated with flavoured mascarpone and sparkly fruit spheres.

W Bangkok 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4000 Open daily: 6:30am-10:30am www.whotels.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 71

FOOD & DRINK | review

Eat Me

sea urchin and acidity from the lime complement the sweet Grilled Dutch Harbor King Crab (B1,250) leg from Alaska. Sea Where fresh and quality ingredients speak for themselves Urchin Bruschetta (B1,500) carries by Fha Kanch the weight of flavourful tomato salsa, crackling piquant Serrano ham slices, and nori sheets. The sourced sea urchin has a particular aftertaste. My favourite: White Asparagus + Caviar (B790) consists of perfectly seasoned and cooked white asparagus, firm manchego, and the smoothest, fluffiest, buttery saffron-infused sauce. For mains, Lobster + Bucatini Pasta (B1,200) absorbs the plentiful Colatura di Alici sauce with the hollow centre of the pasta and immerses the fleshy lobster meat in chilli and herbs. Next, Grilled Iberico Pork Pluma (B1,250) is soaked in fragrant chimichurri sauce topped with chopped hazelnuts. The bed of cooked leeks underneath dissolves in the mouth. The rare pork cut, known as a feather, from behind the neck of the black pig is loaded with subcutaneous fat lines which makes it extra tender. Last but not least, Australian SaltBush Lamb Rack (B1,220) arrives full-scale with four chops, olives, thyme and dark vincotto paste. The juicy meat is odourless despite medium-rare at Me is one of those the roasted rice nose and citrusy cooking. few classic restaurants in taste; you can sip with or without For desserts, cushioned Sticky Bangkok where nothing can the crunchy bits by rotating the Date Pudding with hot butterscotch go wrong with your meal. From glass. A sweeter take: Thai rumsauce + vanilla ice cream (B390) eager staff to timeless design, based Mieng-Khum cocktail (B390) might be Eat Me’s crucial highlight impeccable drinks and hearty is served alongside a honey glazed but wait until you try the Flourless dishes, everything is in order. Mieng-Khum bite. Both elements Dark Chocolate Cake + chocolate Nothing too much or too little, but contain similar components sauce (B380). Deep dark highjust right. including wild betel leaf, roasted quality chocolate and cocoa, thick First and foremost, their coconut, shallots and ginger but intense glaze layer, and ganachecocktails feature savoury ‘Sip no peanut and dried shrimp to like sauce elaborate the moist Some Thai’ creations or classic prevent food allergies. The drink density of the cake. Thai dish in a glass. The vodkahas a tart nose with slightly bitter based signature Laab-Moo (B390) ginger taste and chewiness from Eat Me is flavoured by ground roasted the coated rim. The bartender Pipat Soi 2, Silom Rd. rice syrup, spiced on half of the suggests that you take one sip, a rim by condiments and perfumed bite of Mieng-Khum, then another (20m off Convent Rd.) Tel: 02 238 0931 by muddled herbs. It is garnished sip to allow a fuller experience. Open daily: 3pm-1am with a fine piece of crispy Serrano For starters, saltiness from www.eatmerestaurant.com ham which gives smokiness to the miso, creaminess from the

72 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

Distributed by GLOBAL FOOD PRODUCTS CO LTD www.globalfoodproduct.com Tel: 02 6831751

FOOD & DRINK | breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino

FINE DINING WATER TO ENHANCE GREAT FOOD ACQUA PANNA AND S.PELLEGRINO. THE FINE DINING WATERS. www.finedininglovers.com Distributed by Global Food Products Co., Ltd. Tel. +66 26831751

Breaking Bread

with Chef Som Jutamas Theantae Transcending familiar boundaries with a dining journey like no other Interview by Morgan JT

ollowing the fame of Karmakamet Diner, Chef Som Jutamas Theantae is now gearing up to re-launch the Karmakamet Conveyance at a brand-spanking-new location on Sukhumvit Road before the end of this year. As an extremely talented individual with a unique worldview, Chef Som is determined to present a new old food concept she’s always been 74 | NOV/DEC 2019

working on at the Karmakamet Conveyance, where the focus is on the ‘journey’ rather than the presentation and flavours alone. Since each person’s preference for tastes and flavours is very subjective, she stated that her food places the baseline at where quality meets happiness. She and her team consistently strive to introduce this borderless concept where food is offered in its truest form, as it should be.

“This is not a difficult thing for me. I’ve always cooked this way. I’ve always approached my food like this. I want to create happiness for people who taste and eat my food and I will always continue to do so until the day I die,” Chef Som said when asked about her particular approach to the Karmakamet Conveyance food concept. Absolutely free from all fads, trends and speculations, she has bangkok101.com

breaking bread presented by sanpellegrino | FOOD & DRINK

brought the food concept to life, into a tangible, taste-able dishes to be served only at the soon-toreopen branch. Each step of the journey or each course derived purely from Chef Som’s personal journey through life, challenges she encountered, experiences she gathered along the way filtered, summed and shown through the composition of her dishes. Tasting menu courses are philosophically named: ‘Grains’, ‘Warmth’, ‘Rainforest’, ‘Street’, ‘Village’, ‘Life’ to mention some. You will find no lists of ingredients on the menu, only the name with a short and simple ‘clue’ of what each course is about. They are supposed to be vague and mysterious as to not interfere with the experience of the impending journey. The rest is up to your interpretation. This perfectly portrays Chef Som’s personality while still strongly conveying her commitment and steadfast beliefs in the food served. bangkok101.com

Without giving too much away, ‘Warmth’—made from a harmonious combination of boiled salted Whisker Sheaifish bones, chicken bones, tomato consomme together with an array of Chinese herb mixtures which resulted in a very comforting clear soup that one just can’t get enough of; and ‘Rainforest’—a selected blend of herbs and vegetables mixed with the mysterious green paste that surprisingly reminded one of the scents of refreshing green grass after the rain. Each course of the tasting menu is paired with champagne. When asked why she decided to pair the menu with champagne rather than wine. “I feel like, at the end of the day, champagne is my favourite reward. So, I chose to pair my food with champagne instead.” Among those who have experienced the tasting menu, most agreed that part of the excitement in the whole dining experience was the guessing game

of what ingredients went into each menu, adding another layer of diner’s engagement into the overall atmosphere. Personally, never before have I experienced the food that can evoke fond and heart-warming imageries and sensations and the feeling of nostalgia as this meal and that’s not an overstatement. However, as Chef Som said about how subjective flavours can be to an individual, my only advice when approaching Chef Som’s tasting menu at Karmakamet Conveyance is to let go. Let go of all preconceived notions of how food should be presented, and just take it in as it is. One bite at a time.

“...Allow things to happen the way they are...”

Karmakamet Conveyance 1/1 Sukhumvit Soi 49 www.karmakametconveyance.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 75

Sicilian Journey EP.1

Introducing a brand new concept by Gastronauts Asia

astronauts Asia together with S.Pellegrino and Acqua Panna, Fine Dining Lovers, Gfour Fine Wines & Spirits and Turkish Airlines proudly presents Sicilian Journey ep. 1 event with Chef Martina Caruso from Salina in Sicily, Italy. This new initiative is a concept created to raise awareness of the specific ingredients that Sicily has to offer featuring some of the most creative and innovative chefs while showcasing the great wine varietals grown within the region. Recently won the Michelin Female Chef Award 2019, Chef Martina Caruso is known as the child prodigy in Italian cuisine in the industry. Her culinary journey began with her self-taught father

at Hotel Signum in Salina, her family business which established in 1988. She later gained hospitality training at Institute of CefalĂš in Palermo and joined the professional cooking course at Gambero Rosso in Rome. She went to work for Chef Massimo Riccioli at his Rosetta restaurant. She also gathered experience working abroad at Jamieâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Italian restaurant by Jamie Oliver in London as well as streaks of internships at some of Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top eateries including the one Michelin starred Open Colonna, Rome; Pipero al Rex, Rome; and two Michelin starred La Torre del Saracino, Vico Equense, Naples before returning to tend to her family business at the Hotel and restaurant Signum. Ristorante Signum, also located at the hotel, offers a beautiful ambience of a terrace with sea view overlooking Panarea and Stromboli, an outdoor garden

veranda of perfect for Spring and Summer while the menu promotes seasonal and traditional agro-food heritage. This year, Gastronauts Asia together with our partners are bringing the Sicilian cuisine to two locations, at Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok (22-23 November) and Banyan Tree Phuket (29-30 November) where guests will experience Chef Martina’s beautifully balanced and dynamic cooking. The six-course tasting menu dinner in Bangkok will feature star dishes like bagna càuda with sea urchin paired with Bellavista Alma Cuvée Brut NV Franciacorta, Italy; confit mackerel with green olive soup, buffalo mozzarella and candied capers matched with Feudo Maccari Grillo Olli 2017, Sicily; gentile pasta mixed with mussels, zucchini and ragusano cheese accompanied by Cornelissen MunJebel Bianco 2016, Sicily; snapper marinated lettuce, orange and anchovies completed with Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2017, Sicily; red mullet stuffed with offal, cacciucco sauce, sea asparagus dressed in oil and lemon partnered with Feudo Maccari Maharis Syrah 2016, Sicily; and milk soup with chocolate, coffee and carob as the dessert coupled with Hauner Malvasia Passito 2016, Sicily.

While the Phuket dinner edition will feature a different set of food and wine pairing. Starting with the amuse bouche which will be paired with Lombard Premier Cru Brut Reference NV. The meal will start with delectable confit Mackerel with green olive soup, buffalo mozzarella and candied capers (wine: Feudo Maccari Olli Grillo 2017, Sicily, Italy); gentile pasta mixed with mussels, zucchini and ragusano cheese (wine: Pietradolce Etna Rosso 2017, Sicily, Italy); followed by snapper marinated lettuce, orange and anchovies (wine: Feudo Maccari Sala Nero D’Avola 2015, Sicily, Italy). The dessert is milk soup with chocolate, coffee and carob (wine: Hauner Malvasia Passito delle Lipari 2016, Sicily, Italy). Prices for dinner in Bangkok is B5,500++ for the tasting menu and B6,500++ with wine pairing; while the prices for dinner in Phuket is B2,999++ for the tasting menu and B3,999++ with wine pairing. The event is under the patronage of the Embassy of Italy in Thailand and it is part of the Italian Cuisine Week 2019. Stay tuned for more upcoming episodes of Sicilian Journey series concept by Gastronauts Asia, please visit www.facebook.com/GastronautsAsia

FOOD & DRINK | meal deals

Iberian Grand Pilgrimage Special Tasting Menu at UNO MAS Centara CentralWorld Bangkok, 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 | www.unomasbangkok.com Until December 2019, Executive Chef Sandro Aguilera and his team are launching an updated menu of fine-dining dishes designed to give a taste of Spainâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diverse cuisine. Six, eight and ten plates can be chosen from B2,555++, B2,955++ and B3,255++. Courses come in three stages with different main ingredients. Wine pairing from the Continent starts at B1,555++. For more information or to book a table please call 02 100 6255, email at Diningcgcw@chr.co.th or www.unomasbangkok.com

Festive season from poolside to rooftop at CHAR Rooftop Bar & Restaurant and Infinity Pool Bar Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 | www.charbangkok.com Diners can select three courses for B4,000 net per person or share family-style dishes in different rates. The Christmas dinner menu will be on 24 and 25 December. Add holiday cheer with a special wine list and Christmas-themed cocktails for B350 net per glass. Early bird pricing is for booking by 30 November 2019; spaces are limited. For more information or to book, email charbangkok@ihg.com or call 02 207 4999.

Free flow dining from sundowner to twilighter at Medinii The Continent Hotel Bangkok, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 | www.thecontinentdining.com Enjoy free flow pizza and pasta made fresh only available at Medinii, Italian Restaurant on the 35th Floor The Continent Hotel. The meal begins with an appetiser or soup of the day, followed by a choice of one of the signature main courses and concludes with a dessert. Prices start from B999++ per person including free flow wine, beer and cocktails. For more information, email Dining@thecontinenthotel.com or call 02 686 7056

Japanese Autumn flavours at Tenshino Pullman Bangkok King Power, 8/2 Soi Rangnam, Phayathai Rd. Tel: 02 680 9999 | www.pullmanbangkokkingpower.com Until 30 November 2019, Pullman Bangkok King Power presents an Autumn set menu created with the concept of six provinces and six highlight ingredients, including chestnuts from Nagano, pumpkin from Kyoto, Asari clams from Tokyo Bay, Fuji apple from Aomori Prefecture, Kanpachi from Honshu Island and Shishamo fish from Hokkaido. The four-course set is priced at B999 and B1,499 net per person. Book now at http://bit.ly/2kWamp3

Seafood Night at 57th Street Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 | www.marriott.com Revamped by Executive Chef Gyula Harangi, the upgraded buffet at Bangkok Marriott Hotel Sukhumvit features a variety of freshly imported and local seafood and meat items every Friday and Saturday evening from 6pm to 11pm. The price is at B1,950 net per person. For further information and reservation, contact diningbangkok@marriott.com or call 02 797 0000.

78 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

meal deals | FOOD & DRINK

The Saffron Cruise by Banyan Tree Bangkok Banyan Tree Bangkok, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 | www.banyantree.com The Saffron Cruise is launched for adventure-in-elegance River Dining by Banyan Tree, 7:30pm-12:30am. Contemporary five-course Thai Set Dinner is served with countdown, live band and traditional performances onboard for B11,900 inclusive of a glass of Champagne. For bookings guaranteed or pre-paid on or before 23 November 2019, a 15% discount is applied. Dress code is smart casual. Complimentary round trip transportation from Banyan Tree Hotel to ICON Siam Pier is provided.

Festive Deals at Latest Recipe and FAVOLA Italian restaurant Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, Bangkok Golf Resort & Spa, 789 Moo 14, BangnaTrad Rd., Km 10.5 | Tel: 02 118 7722 | www.marriott.com A Christmas Buffet Weekend at Latest Recipe is available on 20-21 December 2019, 6pm-10:30pm at B1,490 net per person. Christmas Sunday Brunch Buffet is on Sunday 22 December 2019, 12pm-3pm at B1,790 net per person. New Year’s Eve Buffet Dinner is on 31 December 2019, 6pm-10:30pm at B2,790 net per person. For more dining events, visit bit.ly/LM-Online-Deals for exclusive discounts or call 02 118 7777.

A Christmas in Pink at Spectrum Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 | www.hyattregencybangkoksukhumvit.com Christmas Brunch here colours everything pink. Live music and a pink drink welcome guests to the international buffet with sustainable oceanfresh seafood and live cooking on 25 December 2019 from 11:30am-3pm at Spectrum Lounge & Bar (29F). Adults pay B2,200++ and B1,100++ for kids including free-flow water and soft drinks. Beverage Package is at B1,500++. Visit hyattregencybangkoksukhumvit.com, contact 02 098 1234, or email spectrum@hyatt.com for more information.

Outdoor BBQ dinner at Riverside Terrace Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel Bangkok, 2 Charoen Krung Soi Rd. Tel: 02 266 0123 | www.royal-orchid-sheraton.bangkokshotels.com Riverside Terrace at Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers celebrates Lanna Loy Krathong with an open-air BBQ Dinner Buffet priced at B2,500++ with the breathtaking view of lit Krathongs and fireworks by Chao Phraya River. All prices include one Krathong per person for floating on the hotel’s private pier. For reservations and more information click http://bit.ly/loykrathong2019

Christmas Moonlight Cruise on Manohra Cruises Anantara Riverside Bangkok Resort, 257/1-3 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 476 0022 | www.bangkok-riverside.anantara.com From 7:30pm to 10pm, Anantara Riverside’s antique rice barge sails along Chao Phraya River landmarks. A Royal Thai set menu with wok-fried turkey and baked lobster and a Thai twist is served at B3,699 net per person as well as welcome cocktail, wine, beer, soft drinks. Children get a special rate. The Manohra Cruises is also available for private charter. For more details and reservation, call 02 476 0022, email riversidedining@ anantara.com or visit www.bangkok-riverside.anantara.com bangkok101.com

NOV/DEC 2019 | 79

FOOD & DRINK | listings

chinese

while ensuring that the flavours and authenticity are retained. It’s well worth a visit. 4F, Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park Hotel 199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm bangkokmarriottmarquisqueenspark.com

Xin Tian Di Bai Yun

Bai Yun

The Chinese outlet with the best view in town, and one of the highest representatives of Pearl Delta cuisine on the planet, offers highquality ingredients you can really savour. 59F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.banyantree.com

China Table

A stylish Chinese restaurant with a tempting choice of signature dishes and one of the best dim sum lunch in Bangkok. 3F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm, Sat-Sun 11:30am3:30pm www.radissonblu.com/plazahotelbangkok

Liu

The restaurant is renowned not only for its stylish atmosphere and views, but for its dim sum, set lunches and à la carte dinners, including what many regard as the best Peking duck in Bangkok. 22F, Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park, 952 Rama 4 Rd. Tel: 02 632 9000 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm, Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, Sun 11am-2:30pm bangkoklumpinipark.crowneplaza.com

french La Vie@Piano Bar

French creative cuisine takes centre stage at this elegant restaurant on the 11th floor of VIE Hotel Bangkok. The fine dining venue aims to leverage the hotel’s growing reputation as a top local culinary destination. 11F, VIE Hotel Bangkok Phaya Thai Rd. Tel: 02 309 3939 Open daily: 6:30pm-10:30pm; Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm; Sat-Sun 11:30am-3pm www.viehotelbangkok.com

A traditional place that offers all the understated grandeur of Cantonese fine dining while executing food full of contemporary notes. 3F, Conrad Bangkok, 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9999 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

Pagoda Chinese Restaurant

J’Aime by Jean-Michel Lorain

This upscale venue serves traditional Cantonese cuisine in a spacious and contemporary setting. The menu focuses on healthy dishes, 80 | NOV/DEC 2019

Michelin-starred restaurant living up to lofty expectations, even rising above, thanks to the vibrancy in taste and colour of the dishes. You’ll

no doubt find yourself thinking about certain menu items the next day. U Sathorn Bangkok 105, 105/1 Soi Ngam Duphli Tel: 02 119 4899 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10pm, Sunday Brunch 12pm-3pm closed every Tue www.jaime-bangkok.com

Le Boeuf

The concept here is simple: highquality steak, liberally doused with a unique pea-green sauce, paired with an unlimited supply of crispy pommes frites and fresh salad. French to the core. Langsuan: 60 Soi Langsuan, Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 672 1230 Thonglor: 1F Room B101, 9:53 (NineFifty Three) Community Mall, 124 Sukhumvit Soi 53 Open daily: 11am-11pm www.leboeufgroup.com

german

Sühring

German gastronomy comes alive using modern techniques and high-quality ingredients, while still following traditional flavour profiles. The kitchen of this two Michelinstarred restaurant is helmed by a pair of identical twin chefs (Thomas and Mathias), and the results are like nothing you’ll see or taste elsewhere. 10 Yen Akat Soi 3 Tel: 02 287 1799 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5:30pm-9:30pm; Sat-Sun 11:30pm-12:30am, 5:30pm9:30pm www.restaurantsuhring.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

indian

Indus

An ambitious venture in modern Indian cuisine, featuring a lighter menu that still delivers the punch people expect, while dialling down the stodge and oiliness; a riff on Indian-Chinese—or Himalayan— combinations. 71, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 086 339 8582 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am www.indusbangkok.com

Punjab Grill Bangkok

This popular restaurant franchise— bangkok101.com

there are over 26 outlets in India— brings to Bangkok diners an element of refinement to Indian cuisine, through ornate presentation, amazing flavours, inventive tasting menus, and creative cocktailpairings. Radisson Suites Bangkok Sukhumvit 23/2-3, Sukhumvit Soi 13 Open daily: 6pm-11:30pm Tel: 02 645 4952 www.punjabgrillbangkok.com

118/2, Sathorn Soi 12 (Soi Suksa) Tel: 092 563 9991 Open daily: 17:30pm-12am www.bunkerbkk.weebly.com

international

CHAR Restaurant

Bunker

A stunning dining space, offering modern grill cuisine with remarkable flavours. A simply elegant venue, CHAR Private lets you dine in utmost privacy and style. 25-26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road, 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 6pm-12am www.charbangkok.com

From the outside this three-storey bunker-like concrete building may look rustic and unfinished, but do not worry; inside, you’ll find contemporary American cuisine with a heavy New York influence being served up. The top-notch ingredients and excellence in execution are really what mark the dishes here.

CHAR Restaurant

NOV/DEC 2019 | 81

FOOD & DRINK | listings

The Dining Room at The House on Sathorn

Few restaurant settings in the city rival this charming colonial-era mansion where Turkish native Chef Fatih Tutak keeps things rooted in the Ottoman canon, experimenting with tastes, textures, and temperatures in a 10-course— although expect more—tasting menu. W Bangkok, 106 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 344 4025 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.thehouseonsathorn.com

Eat Me

Run by the always innovative Tim Butler, this cosy Silom restaurant is consistently ranked among the top restaurants in Asia and serves quite possibly the best steaks in town. 20 metres off Convent Rd (in Soi Pipat 2), Silom Rd. Tel: 02 238 0931 Open daily: 3pm-1am www.eatmerestaurant.com

30/1 Soi Methi Niwet Tel: 02 262 0700 Open daily: 10am-11:30pm www.karmakametdiner.com

Latest Recipe

A new upscale brunch offering from the signature restaurant in the Le Méridien offers a delicious and indulgent approach to wining and dining. The Medittarean-inpsired “La Docle Vita” Lifestyle Buffet offers an eclectic mix of cuisines across various stations, with fresh seafood, made-to-order pasta, free-flow wine and champagne. 1F Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30am-10:30am, 5:30pm11pm (a la carte); Mon-Sat 12pm2:30pm; Thu-Sat 6pm-9:30pm; Sun 12pm-4pm www.latestrecipebangkok.com

Ocken

Offering dishes inspired by memories and experiences of travels and cultures from near and afar to be shared by people who love to eat, Ocken explores creative techniques, bold flavour combinations, and cooking with no boundaries. The cuisine is known for its free-spirited nature which changes periodically according to what the team feels like eating. 1F, Bhiraj Tower at Sathon South Sathon Rd. Tel: 082 091 6174 Open: Brunch: Sat-Sun 10:30am2:30pm; Dinner: Mon-Sun 6pm-12am www.ockenbkk.com

Park Society

By fusing Eastern flavours with Western techniques, this highaltitude restaurant has become a haven for fine dining. Ask about the chef’s amazing signature tasting menus. 29F, SO Sofitel Bangkok 2 North Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 624 0000 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.so-sofitel-bangkok.com

Nimitr

“Oriental Cuisine” inspired by a responsible gourmand chef on situated on the 27th floor of the Elements luxurious 137 Pillars Suites & This Michelin-starred restaurant Residences, this beautiful restaurant expertly fuses Japanese and French has an outstanding setting and culinary aesthetics, flavours and prepares wonderfully fresh plates precision, in a retro-futuristic space with a slight Oriental leaning. that feels like a home study but has Choose from the likes of Chilli the theatricality of a playhouse. Crab, Szechuan Rock Lobster, Beef 25F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok Massaman, Scallops and Abalone 57 Wireless Rd. Sashimi, Teriyaki Pork Belly and a Tel: 02 687 9000 plethora of traditional favourites Open: Tue-Sat 6pm-10:30pm to tempt every palate for every www.okurabangkok.com occasion. 27F, 137 Pillars Suites & Residences Karmakamet Diner Bangkok, 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 Although the café style selections are outstanding, the talented kitchen Tel: 02 079 7000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-10:30pm team is also adept at creating some www.137pillarsbangkok.com serious fine dining dishes. Elements

82 | NOV/DEC 2019

The Penthouse Bar & Grill

With a design concept that conjures up the fictional penthouse abode of a jetsetting adventurer, the open grill kitchen at this stunning restaurant space dishes up succulent steaks and other meaty morsels. It’s also home to a super cool looking whisky room. 34F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sun 11:30am-3:30pm www.hyatt.com bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK

Up & Above

This elegant 24th floor restaurant has fine dining down, but it also boasts a brunch to rival all othersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; delivering a buffet of luxurious proportions. 24F, Okura Prestige Bangkok, Central Embassy, 57 Witthayu Rd. Tel: 02 687 9000 Open daily: 6am-10:30am, 12pm2:30pm, 12pm-10:30pm; Sun 12pm-3pm www.okurabangkok.com

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant

Vertigo Too Bar & Restaurant Neither an open-air rooftop bar nor the kind of jazz den found in smoky brickwalled basements, the al-fresco bangkok101.com

Vertigo Too deftly toes the line between the two. 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: Mon-Fri 5pm-1am; Sat-Sun 1pm-1am www.banyantree.com

serves 100% authentic Italian cuisine, Whilst sharing the skyline views from the terrace areas. 28F, Radisson Blu Plaza Bangkok 489 Sukhumvit Soi 27 Tel: 02 302 3333 Open daily: 5pm-11pm www.facebook.com/atticoitalianrestaurant

Upstairs at Mikkeller

The second-floor, six table restaurant is simple but effective with an open kitchen and Michelinstar food sure to wow guests. Expect to be spoiled with a rousing and wide-ranging tasting menu, expertly paired with international craft beers. 2F, 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Yaek 2 Don Giovanni Tel: 091 713 9034 Open: Wed-Sat 6pm-10pm Don Giovanni www.upstairs-restaurant.com From the big wooden pillars to the villa scenery painted on walls and busts on pedestals, this restaurant transports patrons to a different place and time, with a menu that offers Italian classics and a piano Attico player tickles the ivories as one dines. Award winning Attico Restaurant

italian

NOV/DEC 2019 | 83

FOOD & DRINK | listings GF, Centara Grand at Central Plaza Ladprao, 1693 Phahonyothin Rd. Open: Mon-Sat, 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 541 1234, ext 4169 www.centarahotelsresorts.com

35F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 Open daily: Mon-Sat 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm-12am; Sunday Brunch 12pm-4pm www.thecontinentdining.com/medinii.php

japanese Katana Shabu & Japanese Dining

Favola

Specialising in the robust and rustic flavours of Italy, Favola is the favoured destination for cosy, romantic dinners. A homey, provincial dining room is decorated in vivid green and rich brown wood with ambient backlighting. 1F, Le Méridien Suvarnabhumi, 789 Moo 14, Bangna-Trad Rd., Samut Prakan Tel: 02 118 7722 Open: Tue-Sun 6pm-11pm www.facebook.com/favolasuvarnabhumi

La Bottega di Luca

This elegant Italian eatery, overseen by the ever charming Luca Appino, serves over 15 different kinds of pasta and an array of Italian specialties you won’t find on many other menus in Bangkok. 2F, Terrace 49 Building Sukhumvit Soi 49 Tel: 02 204 1731 Open: Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm, Mon 5:30pm11:30pm www.labottega.name/restaurant

Medinii

The Italian inspired restaurant is somewhat tucked away high up at Asoke intersection. A hidden standout fine dining concept serving dishes with finesse and finely balanced flavours. Free flow of authentic Pasta & Pizza include soft drink. Easily accessed by Asoke BTS and Sukhumvit MRT. 84 | NOV/DEC 2019

The deliciously inventive Japanese fusion cuisine here is equally matched by the inventiveness of the décor—where each private dining room has a different, eye-popping design scheme. 21/38, Sukhumvit Soi 23 Open daily: 5:30pm-10:30pm Tel: 02 088 0706 facebook.com/Shabu.katana

Fri-Sat, 11:30am-1am www.eltapeobkk.com

Uno Mas

With its expansive menu of authentic Spanish specialties, coupled with spectacular city views, this chic, sky-high tapas bar and restaurant reaches new “heights” in several respects. 54F, Centara CentralWorld Bangkok 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 Open daily: 4pm-1am www.unomasbangkok.com

steak & burger New York Steakhouse

Looking for a traditional style steakhouse? From the spotless white tablecloths to the wooden plateholders adorned with silver handles shaped like longhorn steers, this is a classic red meat restaurant. 2F, JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 4, Sukhumvit Soi 2 Open daily: 6pm-11pm Tel: 02 656 7700 www.jwmarriottbangkok.com

Kisso

thai

Combining a modern mastery of time-honoured customs in a stylish and convivial setting, this is one of the top places for outstanding Japanese cuisine in Bangkok. 8F, The Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok, 259 Sukhumvit Soi 19 Tel: 02 207 8000 Open daily: 12pm-2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm www.kissojapaneserestaurant.com Bangkok Heightz

spanish El Tapeo

This three-storey restaurant, which specializes in tapas-style offerings, offers authentic Spanish tastes at very affordable prices. 159/10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 052 0656 Open: Sun, Tue-Thu, 11:30am-11pm,

Bangkok Heightz

A rooftop sky bar with an authentic Thai concept. This restaurant serves delicious food with focus on local seafood and Thai cocktails. Meanwhile, views of Bangkok’s downtown cityscape can be enjoyed from the restaurant’s open air-deck. 39F, The Continent Hotel Bangkok 413 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 686 7000 bangkok101.com

listings | FOOD & DRINK Open daily: 6pm-12am www.thecontinentdining.com/th/ bangkok-heightz.php

Open daily: 6am-10:30pm www.facebook.com/pg/MarketCafeBKK

Blue Elephant

A wildly successful brand since it was first established in 1980, this restaurant and cooking school sits in a gorgeous Thai historic mansion. On the menu, Chef Nooror takes a riff on the Thai food of tomorrow, but also shares her heritage with every dish. 233 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 673 9353-8 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.blueelephant.com

Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: 11:30am-2:30pm, 7pm-10pm www.mandarinoriental.com

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin

Ruen Urai

Set in the former residence of the herbal medical doctor to King Rama V, Ruen Urai uses herbs and spices with medicinal qualities, while delivering refined Thai fare using the finest, freshest ingredients. The Rose Hotel, 118 Surawongse Rd. Tel: 02 266 8268-72 Open daily: 12pm-11pm www.ruen-urai.com

With a menu created by superstar Danish chef Henrik Yde-Andersen, diners at this elegant, Michelinstarred eatery can expect—on any given day or evening visit—an incredible culinary adventure down a menu-less-travelled. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 991/9 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 162 9000 Open daily: 12pm-3pm, 6pm-12am www.srabuabykiinkiin.com

café

Saffron Le Du

Le Du

It might sound French but the name Le Du actually derives from the Thai word for ‘season,’ and seasonal Thai ingredients are the focus here in progressive Frenchinfluenced dishes that are also rooted in tradition. Chef Thitid ‘Ton’ Tassanakajohn is one of the rising stars of the Bangkok dining scene, earning Le Du a Michelin star. 399/3 Silom Soi 7 Tel: 092 919 9969 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.ledubkk.com

Market Café

Inspired by Ayutthaya era’s traditional markets is the all-new Market Café. With a menu that stays true to Thai flavours, the restaurant offers freshly prepared dishes with bold spices and vibrant flavours crafted by chefs who are well-versed in local cuisine. 4F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 bangkok101.com

Award-winning contemporary Thai cuisine. Spoil yourself in the best of Thai signature dishes, which include seared Tasmanian salmon with crispy pork crackling and a spicy citrus dressing, banana blossom salad with perfectly grilled and marinated prawns served with a coconut dressing and fried banana flowers. 52F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 11:30pm-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm www.banyantree.com/en/thailand/ bangkok

Sala Rim Naam

A stunning traditional pavilion located across the river from Mandarin Oriental where you will dine and experience Thai culture with all your senses. Classical Thai dance shows starts every night at 7:45pm. Dress code is required: elegant attire and proper footwear for ladies, long trousers and shirts with closed-in shoes for gentlemen. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave

The Chocolate Boutique

With a clear and strong focus on natural quality ingredients and old world craftsmanship, this chocolate café, cake, and sweet shop exudes sense of playful experimentation from the moment you begin browsing the menu. GF, Shangri-La Hotel, Bangkok 89 Soi Wat Suan Plu, New Road Tel: 02 236 7777 Open daily: 8am-11pm www.shangri-la.com/bangkok

Kiosk Café

Located in The Barkyard Bangkok Complex, this dog-friendly boite is a fetching choice for an exceptional meal, a friendly cakeand-chat, or a delicious hot coffee. 65, Sukhumvit Soi 26 Tel: 02 259 4089 Open: Tue-Thu, 10:30am-9pm, Fri-Sun, 10:30am-11pm www.kiosk-cafe.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 85

Vana Nava Sky at Holiday Inn Resort Vana Nava Hua Hin

NIGHTLIFE Weekend at Vana Nava Sky Vana Nava Sky at Holiday Inn Vana Nava Hua Hin welcomes master mixologists and DJ beats every month and long weekend until the end of the year. The bar also provides a lounging experience featuring equally inspired dinner and drinks surrounded by Hua Hin’s scenery. And don’t forget to visit the photogenic Sun Deck. www.vananavasky.com

Sunset at Spectrum Lounge & Bar Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit is having a special promotion on signature cocktails, selected wines and sparkling wines during sunset hours on the rooftop bar. The Buy 1 Get 1 Free happy hour is happening daily 5:30pm-7pm at Spectrum Lounge & Bar on Levels 29th & 30th. For reservations, contact 02 098 1234, email spectrum@hyatt.com or visit www.hyatt.com/en-US/ hotel/thailand/hyatt-regency-bangkok-sukhumvit/bkkhr/dining/ spectrum

A Smokin’ New Year’s Eve at SEEN SEEN Restaurant & Bar Bangkok at Avani+ Riverside Bangkok Hotel will be packed with New Year’s Eve activities no matter the dramatics, music or performances by resident and international talents. A five-course shared dinner and drinks are brought to life by in-house Chef and mixologists. Later, unlimited spirits and mixers, beer, sparkling, red and white wine will lead to the countdown party where Chao Phraya River is lit with fireworks. For more information or reservations, call 02 431 9120 or email reservation@seenrooftopbangkok.com

NIGHTLIFE | review

Vertigo TOO, Banyan Tree Bangkok Sunset dining 60-storey high by Morgan JT

aking the definition of a ‘night out’ to a new altitude, Vertigo TOO, Banyan Tree Bangkok sits on the 60th floor with an extravagant indoor bar where guests are transported to the moon and back with elegant dining and beverage options. On the menu is a range of cross-cultural cuisine that is equally fulfilling and wholesome. The dining experience began with the sweet chicken amuse bouche followed closely by Prawn and Chorizo (B620)—four large tiger prawns precisely grilled to perfection served with Chorizo and grilled asparagus. Next up, an order of Mini Cheese Wagyu Burgers (B680)—an order of two mini burgers served with crispy bacon and flavourful Jalapeno mayonnaise. Guests can request for foie gras for an additional B250.

88 | NOV/DEC 2019

The main was an order of grilled lamb loin (B990)—three chunks of medium-rare grilled lamb loin served together with potato gnocchi, delectable carrot purée and black truffle pepper sauce. This is one must-not-miss menu. Followed by the Prawn Tom Yum Rolls (B620)—refreshing Vietnamese-style spring rolls with large chunks of tiger prawns and dabs of robust but not overly spicy Tom Yum sauce on top. Also available at Vertigo TOO, Vertigo rooftop and Moon Bar is an extensive list of best-loved and innovative signature cocktails such as Vertigo TOO Sunset (B560), The Hitchcock (B560) and The Botanical (B550). Not to miss also is the breathtaking view of Bangkok skyline from Moon Bar. Guests can enjoy this highly acclaimed rooftop venue offering a range of

creative and traditional cocktails while indulging in the view from the glass ‘bridge’ vista point called ‘Moon Walk’. Coming soon to all food buffs is the long-awaited Saffron Cruise River Dining by Banyan Tree. Presenting contemporary five-course Thai Set Dinner and countdown on the cruise, guests can wine and dine in elegance alongside a live band and traditional performances. The price is at B11,900 per person inclusive of a glass of champagne. The cruise is available from 7:30pm-12:30am. Smart casual dress code only.

Vertigo TOO 60F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 www.banyantree.com bangkok101.com

Festive Dining at

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Spectrum Christmas Eve Surprise presents three-course ‘Surprise Me Dinner’ Boxes*. Starting with festive welcome beverages alongside live jazz music. Guests can choose to pair the dinner box surprises with wine, available on 24 December 2019 from 6pm-10:30pm at B2,500++ and B3,500++ per person with wine pairing. ‘A Christmas in Pink’ comes with a range of international buffet from fresh seafood on ice and live cooking stations. Available on 25 December 2019 from 11:30am-3pm at B2,200++ per adult with a B1,500++ beverage package and B1,100++ per child (inclusive of free-flow water and soft drinks). New Years’ Eve presents a sumptuous four-course set dinner where guests can enjoy performances. Serving on 31 December 2019 from 6pm-10:30pm at B4,900++ per person.

Spectrum Lounge & Bar will host ‘The Inexplicable New Year Party’ on 30th and 31st floors where international DJs will keep the groove on. Live performances will keep the spirits high all night long. Serving throughout the night are free-flow canapes including truffle fries and fresh oysters corner. The party starts at 9:30pm onwards. The entry is B1,500 net per person with one glass of Prosecco; B10,000++ for two persons with a private seat** inclusive of one bottle of spirit and six mixers or one bottle of Moët & Chandon Champagne; or B20,000++ for four persons with a private cabana** with two bottles of spirit and 12 mixers or one bottle of Dom Pérignon. * Please inform the staff of any dietary requirements beforehand. ** Private seat/cabana selection is subject to availability on a first-come-first-serve basis.

29-31F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Hotel, 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 | Tel: 02 098 1234 | Open: daily from 5:30pm-1am www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/thailand/hyatt-regency-bangkok-sukhumvit/bkkhr

FESTIVE 2020 AT BANGKOK MARRIOTT MARQUIS QUEEN’S PARK

Sending off 2019 in style with ‘Festive 2020’ promotions at Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park. ‘A Sense of Hop @ Sky Garden,’ craft beer promotion on the 38th floor available from today until 15 December 2019 from 5pm-11pm, prices start from B215++ to B485++. Guests can enjoy Festive Afternoon Tea with Silver Jubilee & Wattle series 100% pure Ceylon teas and coffees on offer alongside sweets and savoury nibbles and live piano. Prices are B989++ for two persons and B1,490++ with two glasses of sparkling wine, available from 1 December 2019 to 1 January 2020 between 12pm-6pm. Enjoy Festive Free-Flow Weekends throughout December 2019 with live music every Friday and Saturday from 6pm-9pm available from 6-25 December 2019 at B989++ per person. Feaste on the Festive Fusion at Akira Back Restaurant and Bar with special prices perfect for a celebration with families and friends available between 20-29 December 2019, 6pm-11pm. New Year’s Eve celebration dinner with a range of innovative Asian dishes from Akira Back Restaurant is available on 31 December 2019 at 6pm-6:45pm, 8:30pm-9:15pm at B3,900++ per person with optional B4,500++ for free-flow champagne package. A la carte menus are available for children under 12 years old. Goji Kitchen + Bar presents Christmas Eve Dinner Family Feast in buffet-style with highlights from around

the globe. The feast is priced at B2,337++ per person with optional free-flow drink package at B1,288++ or B2,500++ for the champagne package. The promotion is available on 24 December 2019 from 6pm-10pm. The Christmas Fun Day Brunch is available on 25 December 2019 between 12pm-2:30pm at the same prices. The Final Feast of the Decade including sumptuous dinner buffet with selected champagnes is available on 31 December 2019 from 6pm-10pm at B2,888++ per person with optional free-flow drinks package at B1,288++ or B2,500++ for the champagne package. ABar Rooftop presents The End of a Decade Party on 31 December 2019 with the mesmerising party and free-flow drinks from 10pm onwards, early bird tickets priced at B2,500 net per person. Year-End Private Parties promotions are also available. Premium festive hampers are available from 25 November 2019 to 31 January 2020 between 10am7pm at Lobby Level. *Members of Club Marriott get 15% discount.

Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park

199 Sukhumvit Soi 22 Tel: 02 059 5555 email: restaurant-reservations.bkkqp@marriotthotels.com or visit www.bangkokmarriottmarquisqueenspark.com

NIGHTLIFE | listings

bar

and unbeatable value with a wine buffet. Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 494 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 1234 Open daily: 12pm-12am www.hyatt.com

The Bar Aqua

Aqua

All-day dining and evening cocktails in Bangkok. Relax by the koi pond amidst tropical foliage in Aqua’s courtyard setting. Order a bite from any one of the dining establishments, or sample rare whiskies and cocktails. This alfresco lounge is also ideal for smokers with a selection of cigars on offer. Enjoy live DJ sets on Wednesday, Friday and Saturday nights. Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 155 Ratchadamri Rd. Tel: 02 126 8866 Open daily: Breakfast 6am-10:30am, Lunch & Dinner 11:30am-12am, Sunday Brunch 11:30am-3pm www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/ restaurants/aqua

Bamboo Chic Bar

Explore a selection of signature cocktails, wines, and spirits, while the culinary team prepares a variety of snacks and delicatessen favourites in a contemporary lounge setting. 4F, Le Méridien Bangkok 40/5 Surawong Rd. Tel: 02 232 8888 Open daily: 5:30pm-11:30pm www.lemeridienbangkokpatpong.com

Bar@494

A cosy place with an extensive selection of international wines. Chic décor, ambient lighting, and an excellent selection of food and wine make this vibrant bar one of Bangkok’s most popular evening venues in downtown area. Come to enjoy world-class cocktails and take advantage of daily Happy Hours 92 | NOV/DEC 2019

Featuring black and gold colour theme with both indoor and outdoor seatings, this 10th floor lounge is warm, sophisticated, quiet and inviting—the archetype of a bar you would belly-up to after a long day at work or a long flight into town. 10F, Park Hyatt Bangkok 88 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 012 1234 Open daily: 3pm-12am www.hyatt.com

Beer Belly

Beer Belly takes over the large space on the right-hand side of 72 Courtyard’s ground floor and offers 20 beers on tap, ranging from Leo (B180/pint) and Asahi (B260/pint) to La Chouffe (B420/pint) and L’Olmaia LA5 (B480/pint). Bottled Thai craft beers like Chalawan (B180) and Phuket Beer (B180) are also available alongside East-meets-West drinking snacks like pork wontons (B140) and barbecue ribs (B320). While inside space provides games on the house like jenga, chess, darts, pool, ping pong and even a beer pong table; head outside for bar seating and tables when the weather's nice. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7770 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.72courtyard.com/brands/beer-belly

The Diplomat Bar

Drop by any night and you’re likely to find suited and booted business types chatting over martinis. Dark wood touches, soft yellow lighting, and a den-like feel partly account for the bar’s popularity from 8pm Monday to Thursday (and 8:30pm Friday and Saturday), a talented band entertains with jazz and R&B sounds. 1F, Conrad Bangkok Hotel 87 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 690 9244 Open: Sun-Thu, 7am-1am (happy hour 5pm-8pm, live entertainment Mon-Thu 8:30pm-12:30am), Fri-Sat, 7am-2am www.conradhotels3.hilton.com

Evil Man Blues

Evil Man Blues is a Jazz cocktail bar made out of a man’s madness. Expect the close knit vibe that is full of charm, sexiness and spasms of love. Themed after a 1950s American diner as a homage to the American West Coast jazz bars of the '50s and '60s, purple and blue neon lights illuminate a well-polished space manned by new-in-town bartender, Liam Baer, who serves a list of creative twists on classic cocktails. GF, 72 Courtyard, 72 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7740 Open daily: 6pm-2am www.facebook.com/EvilManBlues

Rabbit Hole

A proper cocktail bar run by industry insiders, where the drinks come first and the cool interior just tops it off. What’s more, the bartenders really know their spirits. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 098 969 1335 Open daily: 7pm-2am www.rabbitholebkk.com bangkok101.com

listings | NIGHTLIFE

Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant

This sophisticated (and elevated) drink spot and bistro offers tipplers both a novel-sized wine list as well as a long list of creative cocktails— many of which make use of in-house infused spirits. 37F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 188 Si Lom Rd. Tel: 096 860 7990 Open daily: Mon-Fri 6pm-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am www.randblab.com/scarlett-bkk

Wine Connection The Grill

There are currently 18 Wine Connection outlets in Bangkok, however, this branch sets itself apart focusing on grilled meats— especially beef—to be enjoyed with the large selection of reasonably priced vinos (available mainly by the bottle, but with some “by the glass” options as well). 1F, The Groove@CentralWorld Tel: 02 613 1037 Open daily: 11am-1am www.wineconnection.co.th

rooftop sky bar

latitude wines while enjoying the view from the 25th floor. 25F, 48 Column Building, Sukhumvit Soi 16 Tel: 02 302 2557-9 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.longtablebangkok.com CHAR Rooftop Bar

CHAR Rooftop Bar

Visitors here can enjoy a beautiful view of Bangkok’s lively downtown core. The breezes are gentle, the chairs and couches are comfortable, and the cocktails are delicious. 26F, Hotel Indigo Bangkok Wireless Road 81 Wireless Rd. Tel: 02 207 4999 Open daily: 5pm-1am www.charbangkok.com

Moon Bar & Vertigo

The top floors of the Banyan Tree Bangkok offer three iconic rooftop spots: Moon Bar, Vertigo, and the 64th floor Vertigo Too. All are perfect spots for a romantic rendezvous. 61/64F, Banyan Tree Bangkok 21/100 South Sathorn Rd. Tel: 02 679 1200 Open daily: 6pm-10:30pm www.banyantree.com

Octave Rooftop Lounge & Bar Whether you choose the outdoor

Character Whisky & Cigar Bar lounge on the 45th floor or the Both outlets of this warm and comfortable smoker’s lounge—one of which doubles as a skybar—serve some of the rarest and finest single malt whiskies from Scotland (and beyond), as well as housing humidors stocked with premium handmade cigars from Cuba, Nicaragua, Dominican Republic and more. Courtyard at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel, 155 Rajadamri Rd. Tel: 02 254 4726 Open: Mon-Sat, 1pm-12am www.facebook.com/characterbar

alfresco bar on the 49th floor, you have breathtaking views in every direction. And those in search of a sundowner should heed the 5pm7pm happy hours, when signature cocktails are half-price. 45-49F, Bangkok Hotel Marriott Sukhumvit, 2 Sukhumvit Soi 57 Tel: 02 797 0000 Open daily: 5pm-2am www.facebook.com/octavemarriott

CRU Champagne Bar

This high altitude hot spot is owned by G.H. Mumm Champagne brand and offers tipplers dozens of tables, as well as a circle-shaped showpiece Aire Bar bar. If you’re craving bottles of bubbly with a panoramic view, it Aire Bar doesn’t get any better than this. Offering a variety of wines, beers, and artisanal cocktails, with delicious 59F, Centara Grand at CentralWorld snacks to boot. Plus, one of the best 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 views of the city (day and night). A Open daily: 5pm-1am laid-back bar perfect for unwinding www.champagnecru.com with a cocktail in hand. 28F, Hyatt Place Bangkok Sukhumvit 22/5 Sukhumvit Soi 24 Long Table Tel: 02 055 1234 Although known for its massive Open daily: 5pm-1am communal dining table, you can www.facebook.com/airebarbangkok also glug signature cocktails or new bangkok101.com

Red Sky Bar

One of Bangkok’s most acclaimed rooftop bars—perched dramatically above the heart of the city—offers light bites and signature cocktails. 56F, Centara Grand & Bangkok Convention Centre at CentralWorld 999/99 Rama 1 Rd. Tel: 02 100 6255 ext. 5603 Open daily: 11:30pm-1am www.centarahotelsresorts.com NOV/DEC 2019 | 93

NIGHTLIFE | listings

Rooftop Terrace at Penthouse Bar+Grill

Zest Bar and Terrace

Recently refurbished, this tippling spot entices guests with an all-new This dramatic skybar is the perfect spot to drink in Bangkok’s night time drink menu, featuring expertly skyline in an outdoor garden lounge crafted cocktails and a range of gastronomic delights such as beer setting. Choose anything from a bucket of drinks, to curated cocktails battered fish and chips. 7F, Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok and expertly crafted bites. 36F, Park Hyatt Bangkok, 88 Wireless Rd. 259 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 207 8000 Tel: 02 012 1234 Open: Sun-Wed, 5:30pm-1am; Thu-Sat, Open daily: 7am-12am www.westingrandesukhumvit.com 5:30pm-2am bangkok.park.hyatt.com

club Beam

Spectrum Lounge & Bar

Enjoy the vibrant social scene and breathtaking views at the newest rooftop bar in Bangkok. Spread over the top three floors, the bar features spacious indoor loungers, an outdoor terrace and perfect unwinding spots with a wide selection of premium tapas, crafted cocktails and DJs entertainment every night. 30F, Hyatt Regency Bangkok Sukhumvit 1 Sukhumvit Soi 13 Tel: 02 098 1234 Open daily 5:30pm-1am www.facebook.com/spectrumrooftopbkk

ThreeSixty Rooftop Bar

Set high above the glittering lights of Bangkok's Chao Phraya river, discover the perfect setting to relax, unwind and take in unbeatable 360° panoramic vistas. Select from delicious, creative cocktails made by champion mixologists as you enjoy the live music from an experienced jazz singer. Millennium Hilton Bangkok 32F, 123 Charoennakorn Rd. Tel: 02 442 2000 Open daily: 5pm-1am www3.hilton.com 94 | NOV/DEC 2019

An honest club with a communal vibe plus great music and one of the best sound systems where the floor moves to the beat of the music. You can be yourself here—dance like you mean it, soak up the vibe, then spread the love. 1F, 72 Courtyard, Sukhumvit Soi 55 Tel: 02 392 7750 Open: Wed-Sat, 9pm-late www.beamclub.com

Mixx Discotheque

Classier than most of Bangkok’s afterhour dance clubs, the space is a two-room affair—one plays R&B and Hip Hop, the other does Techno & House—decked out with chandeliers, paintings, and billowing sheets. President Tower Arcade 973 Ploenchit Rd. Tel: 02 656 0382 Open daily: 9pm-late www.mixxdiscotheque.com/bangkok

Open daily: 10am-12am www.thedrunkenleprechaun.com

The Huntsman

English-style pub, cool and dark, with lots of nooks and crannies and a Sunday roast like no other. GF, The Landmark Hotel 138 Sukhumvit Rd. Tel: 02 254 0404 Open daily: 11:30am-2am; Sunday roast 11:30am-3pm www.landmarkbangkok.com/huntsmanpub

live music Bamboo Bar

A small and busy landmark of the East’s past glories that is, nevertheless, romantic and intimate, thanks to the legendary jazz band that plays each night. Ideal for a boozy night out or a romantic special occasion. The Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 48 Oriental Ave Tel: 02 659 9000 Open daily: Sun-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am www.mandarinoriental.com

Maggie Choo’s

pubs The Drunken Leprechaun

This heavily Irish-themed establishment offers delicious pub grub and drinks from the Emerald Isle and beyond. The nightly entertainment includes weekly pub quizzes, generous happy hours, and complimentary snacks. Four Points by Sheraton 4 Sukhumvit Soi 15 Tel: 02 309 3255

Maggie Choo’s

The bar’s attraction is the live jazz music, some of the best the city has to offer. The welcoming atmosphere is amplified with sultry mysticism and redolent of Shanghai’s dandyish early 20th-century gambling dens. Underground of Hotel Bangkok Fenix Silom, 320 Silom Rd. Tel: 02 635 6055 Open: Mon-Thu 7:30pm-2am; Sun 7:302am; Fri-Sat 7:30pm-3am www.maggiechoos.com bangkok101.com

Wat Saket Ratcha Wora Maha Wihan (Golden Mountain)

getting there | MAP

Rail

SUBWAY (MRT) Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit SKYTRAIN (BTS) (MRT) is another fast and reliable The Bangkok Transit System, or way to get across town. The BTS, is an elevated train network 18-station line stretches 20km covering the major commercial from Hualamphong (near the areas. Trains run every few minutes central railway station) up to from 6am to midnight, making it a Bang Sue in the north. Subways quick and reliable transport option, run from 6am to midnight daily, especially during heavy traffic with trains arriving every 5-7 hours. Fares range from B16 to B59, minutes. The underground however tourist passes allowing connects with the BTS at MRT unlimited daily travel (B140) as well Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT as trip packages. However, they do Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT not provide any free shuttle bus Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit that transits passengers to and from stations. Subway fares range stations or nearby areas. from about B16 to B42. www.bts.co.th www.bangkokmetro.co.th

River CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Phan Fa Leelard bridge, on the edge of the Old City, and zip east to Ramkhamhaeng University. However, you have to be quick to board them as they don’t usually wait around. Canal (khlong) boats

tend to be frequent. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find. EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of intercity waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city. Express boats

Road BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B8 and B12-20. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops). taxi drivers gather in groups. Fares should always be negotiated MOTORCYCLE TAXI beforehand. In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, TAXI motorcycle taxis are the fastest, Bangkok has thousands of albeit most dangerous, form of road transport. Easily recognisable metered, air-con taxis available by their colourful vests, motorbike 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the bangkok101.com

Airport Rail Link A monorail links the city’s main international airport, Suvarnabhumi, with stops in downtown Bangkok and in the eastern suburbs. Trains run from 6am to midnight every day and follow along the same route. The City Line stops at all stations (journey time: 30 minutes) and costs B15-45 per journey. The Express Line was closed in 2015. There are eight stations in total including Suvarnabhumi (A1), Lat Krabang (A2), Ban Thap Chang (A3), Hua Mak (A4), Ramkamhaeng (A5), Makkasan (A6), Ratchaprarop (A7), and Phaya Thai (A8). www.srtet.co.th

ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers altogether. Fares starting from B15 depending on the distance, tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier, depending on how much time you have. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 7pm.

first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the meter on. No tipping, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to and from the airport, passengers should pay the expressway toll fees. When boarding from the queue outside the terminal, an additional B50 surcharge is added. TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuktuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40. NOV/DEC 2019 | 97

MAP | greater bangkok Uthai Thani

UTHAI THANI

CHAI NAT

LOP BURI

Nakhon Ratchasima c

Chiang Mai

SING BURI

Kanchanaburi

THAILAND

ANG THONG

NAKHON RATCHASIMA

SARABURI

Nakhon Ratchasima

Ubon

Bangkok Pattaya Koh Samet Koh Chang

Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya

CAMBODIA

Andaman Sea

AYUTTHAYA

NAKHON NAYOK

Koh Samui

VIETNAM

Gulf of Thailand

Krabi

Phuket

PATHUM THANI NAKHON PATHOM

LAOS Udon Thani

Lop Buri

SUPHAN BURI

KANCHANABURI

MYANMAR

PRACHIN BURI

MALAYSIA

SA KAEO

BANGKOK

c b

RATCHABURI

CHACHOENGSAO

SAMUT PRAKAN

SAMUT SAKHON g

SAMUT SONGKHRAM

CAMBODIA CHON BURI

Phetchaburi

Ko Sichang Pattaya

PHETCHABURI

RAYONG

Cha-am

CHANTHABURI

Rayong Hua Hin

Ko Samet

Muang Chantaburi

PRACHUAP KHIRI KHAN

Gulf of Thailand

M YA N M A R

Trat Ko Chang

Prachuap Khiri Khan Ko Kut

Sightseeing

Floating Markets

Night Bazaar

1 Damnoen Saduak 1 Asiatique The Riverfront Bang Krachao 2 Amphawa 2 Rot Fai Market, b Samphran Riverside 3 Talin Chan c Samphran Elephant Srinakarin 4 Khlong Lat Mayom 3 Rot Fai Market, Ground & Zoo d 5 Bang Nam Pheung Ratchada Ancient Siam 4 Chang Chui Bangkok (Muang Boran) e Safari World Plane Market Museums f Rama IX Royal Park 1 Erawan Museum 5 Patpong g Mahachai Market 2 House of Museums h Phra Pathommachedi 3 Thai Film Museum i Koh Kret Pottery Village 4 Museum of Counterfeit j Rangsit Science Center Goods k Samutprakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo a

20 KM 20 miles

Country Border Boarder Crossing Province Border

98 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

greater bangkok & the chao phraya | MAP

Tanya Tanee j

PAK KRET

Don Mueng

Don Mueng Int. Airport

Ko Kret i

Sai Mai

Royal Irrigation Dept.

Lak Si

Rajpruek

The Legacy

Bang Khen

Northpark

Khlong Sam wa

Royal Thai Army Sport Center

Thanont

MUENG NONTHABURI

Chatuchak

Panya Indra

Lat Phrao Bueng Kum

Bang Sue

Khan na Yao

Chatuchak

Bang Phlat

Navatanee

Phayathai

Dusit

Mini Buri

Mo Chit

Bang Sue

Wang Thong lang

Din-Daeng

Taling Chan

Huai Khwang

Ratchathewi

Bangkok Noi

Bangkok Yai 5 *

Thon Buri

Watthana

Lumpini

Bang Rak

Khlong San

Bang Wa

Bang Kholaem

Lat Krabang

Suan Luang Khlong Toei

Sathorn Prawet

Chom Thong

60 th Anniversary Queen Sirikit Park

Krungthep Unico Kreetha Grande

Pathumwan Phasi Charoen

Saphan Sung

Bang Kapi

Yan Nawa 4

Bang Bon

Phra Khanong

Suan Luang Rama IX

Suvarnabhumi Int. Airport

Phra Pradaeng

Rat Burana

Bang Na 5

Summit Windmill

Bearing

Bang Khun Thian

Thung Khru

Mueang Kaew

Green Valley

PHRA SAMUT CHEDI

SAMUT PRAKAN

Bangpoo

Gulf of Thailand

bangkok101.com

NOV/DEC 2019 | 99

MAP | sukhumvit road

Phra Ram 9

a IX

Ram

Royal

m9 Prara ital Hosp

City

Ave

RCA ange R ing

Driv

Din

het 7

ng P

phae

kam

Phet

Uthai

Ital Thai Expy

(Toll

Makkasan

b tcha

Phe

tate

S 2nd

oad)

8/1

uri 3

Phetchaburi

k Su

het 7

Prasanmit

ng P

phae

kam

oi it S mw 49 /1

Soi

Prasa

t Soi 2

Benjasiri Park

vit 6

oh a an iN

So i

ssw re

Son

Ton

Benjakiti Park

Hotels

Conrad Bangkok 2 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 3 Seven Hotel 4 JW Marriott Hotel Bangkok 5 Rembrandt Hotel & Suites Bangkok 6 Four Points by Sheraton 7 Aloft Bangkok Sukhumvit 11 1

300 m 1328 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Subway Line Railway

100 | NOV/DEC 2019

Galleria 10 Bangkok Marriott Marquis Queen’s Park 10 Westin Grande Sukhumvit Bangkok 11 Marriott Executive Apartments 12 Grande Centre Point Terminal 21 13 Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit 8 9

Le Fenix Sukhumvit 5 6 Radisson Suites Bangkok 7 Sukhumvit 8 Arts & Culture 1 Japan Foundation 9 2 Attic Studios 10 3 WTF Gallery and Café 4 The Pikture Gallery Art Workshop & Framing 14

RMA Institute Sombat Permpoon Gallery Art Gallery G23 Subhashok The Arts Centre (S.A.C.) Yellow Korner Ardel’s Third Place Gallery

bangkok101.com

Sukhumv

vit

k Na

Soi

an R

g Su

Lau

Soi 35

oi 3

it S

vit

it S

khu

Phrom

khu

Asok

Sukhumvit

umvi

Sukh

vit S

hum

2 13 14

ale

udi

vit Soi 10

Sukhum

oi 8

t Soi

vit

Rua

vit S

hum

Suk

vit

umvi

Sukh

t Soi

umvi

Suk

Sukh

Soi

vit

umvi

hum

Sukhumvit 12

Sukh

Suk

oi 1

Soi

vit S

vit

hum

Suk

oi 1

vit S

hum

Suk

hum

Nana

oi 1

oi 3

oi 7

vit S

hum

Suk

vit S

t Sin

hum

Loe

vit S kh

Soi

Khit

Lom

ri R 6

oi 1

hro

atdi

ont

Suk

Soi

hum

vit S

Saw

Soi

nmit

n ttha

23 21

PK Suk

hum

Lo Nai

Som

Phloen Chit

Aso

Cha

hai

Sea

Soi

7 3

Suk

Soi

u Rd

hay Witt Soi

Chit

Chit Lom

27 14

Rur

25 22

a Nue

Witthayu

Soi

a Nan

Nana

ad rungr Bam ital Hosp

n Ch

Mit

Rd Soi

e Phlo

uri

tch he

tral Cen Lom Chit

hop

Soi P

chat Bura akon iy Cha ital Hosp

in Eye Rutn ital Hosp

9 Soi 3

o Nikh

k Su

Asok

Soi 41

n Rd

kasa

ak mM

sukhumvit road | MAP

uri R

Thong Lo

Ekkamai

ai Ekkam

Lo 23

2 my

oi uan N Soi N ai Ekkam

an o iB

ng myo B an o

ai 21

Ekkam

Thong

P ri d i

kamai Soi Ek

ong Lo Soi Th

Camillian Hospital

Thong Lo

yon

nom

i Ba

Prid

i 28 Ekkama

Prid

yon

nom

i Ba

Ekkamai 23

Prid

chab

Phet

B idi

Prid

k Su

i So

it So umw Sukh

it mw

Ekkamai

k Su

mai Ekka

hu 49

i 49/6

oi it S mw

20 mai Ekka

/1 3

Lo 1

Thong

ai Ekkam

Lo 10

ai Ekkam

mv 1

ong Lo

ka Ek

it 7

ang

hro

Soi Kl

kamai Soi Ek

i ama Ekk

Soi Th

ng L

Tho

ka Ek

Soi

di M

i Pa

M rom

i 10

ama

Ekk

j itive Sam mvit u Sukh spital Ho

Soi

hu Suk

g Thon

hab

Sett

Suk hum vit Soi

16 The ChindAsia Club 17 The Iron Fairies 18 Fat Gut'z 19 Shades of Retro 20 diVino 21 W XYZ Bar 22 Marshmallow 23 Oskar Bistro 24 TUBA Design Furniture & Restaurant 25 Apoteka

Long Table Diplomat Bar 13 The Living Room 14 Barsu 15 WTF Gallery and CafÃ© 11

bangkok101.com

Nightlife

vit

Soi

Glow Club 2 Demo 3 Levels Club 4 8 on Eleven 5 Beam 6 Narz Club 1

Hanrahans 8 The Pickled Liver 9 Robin Hood 10 The Royal Oak 7

vit

oi 4

it S

vit

Clubs

Pubs

t umvi Sukh spital Ho

Suk

Robinsons 2 Terminal 21 3 The Emporium 4 EmQuartier 1

Ekkamai

Phra Khanong

Malls

hum

Sukhumvit

i 36

Thong Lo

vit So

Sukhum

Soi 28

vit

um ukh

i 34

Suk

vit

Soi

vit

hum

Sukhumvit

Soi 26

Soi 24

Sukhumvit

Benjasiri Park

Suk

oi 5

it S

t Soi

oi 4

umvi

it S

Suk

Soi 4

Sukh

umvit

Sukh

ukda

Phrom Phong

Suk

t Soi

eng M

umvi

Soi 35

Soi Sa

Sukh

Sukhumvit

Water Library Brasserie at Central Embassy 27 Nest 28 Above Eleven

Embassies

India Philippines ES Spain SE Sweden PK Pakistan JO Jordan BN Brunei Darussalam IN

NOV/DEC 2019 | 101

MAP | siam/chit lom

Soi 29

Soi 3 5

Soi Sukhumvit 1

Soi Lang Suan 1

Soi 4

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Soi 4

Soi 5 Soi 5

Sarasin

Soi 6

Chulalongkorn University Area

Hotels

Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Bangkok on Siam Square 3 Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok 4 Baiyoke Sky Hotel 5 Amari Watergate Bangkok 6 Novotel Bangkok Platinum Pratunam 7 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok 8 Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel 9 The St. Regis Bangkok 10 InterContinental 11 Holiday Inn 12 Conrad Bangkok 13 Centara Grand at CentralWorld 14 Hotel Muse 15 The Okura Prestige Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

Canal Boat BTS Silom Line BTS Sukhumvit Line Railway Airwalk Market

102 | NOV/DEC 2019

Soi Ruam Rudi

Soi 7

Sarasin Rd Lumphini Park

d 16 Centara Watergate Siam Ocean World 10 Erawan Plaza e 11 The Peninsula Pavillion Ganesha and 17 Mayfair, Bangkok Trimurti Shrine Plaza 12 Amarin Plaza Marriott Executive f Erawan Shrine g Apartments Phra Indra Shrine 13 Central Chidlom 18 Hotel Indigo 14 All Seasons Place 15 Central Embassy Bangkok Nightlife 19 The Athenee 1 Hard Rock Cafe 2 Red Sky Bar Hotel, a Luxury Shopping 3 Balcony Humidor 16 Siam Square Collection Hotel 20 Oriental Residence 17 Pratunam Market & Cigar Bar 4 Café Trio 19 Siam Square One Bangkok 5 Hyde&Seek

Arts & Culture

Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC) 2 100 Tonson Gallery 1

Malls

MBK 2 Siam Discovery 3 Siam Center 4 Siam Paragon 5 Panthip Plaza Sightseeing a 6 The Platinum Jim Thomson House Fashion Mall b Madame Tussauds 7 CentralWorld 8 Zen@ Museum c CentralWorld Queen Savang Vadhana Museum 9 Gaysorn 1

udi 2

Soi 3

am R

Soi 2

Ratchadamri

Soi Nai Lert

14 12

u Soi R

Soi Ruam Rudi

Witthayu Rd

UA IT

NL Soi Mahatlek Luang3

Th. Witthayu Rd

Soi Som Khit Soi Tonson

So i6

Soi 5

Ratchadamri Rd

19 5

Soi Mahatlek Luang 2 8

CO VN

Phloen Chit 15

Henri Dunant Rd

Soi Mahatlek Luang 1

vit 2

Rajamangala University

Soi 11

Soi 3

Soi 2

Soi 4

Soi 9

Soi 1

Soi 8

Phloen Chit

Chit Lom

m ukhu

Phaya Thai Rd

Siam Square

an R hith ng P

f 10

Soi S

Soi 7

Dua

Soi Chit Lom

Siam

National Stadium

Soi 31 Soi 33

Soi 23 Soi 25

Soi 27

Soi Lang Suan

Rama I

Soi 10

Soi Kaesem San1

Soi Kaesem San2

ay e ssw Expr

b 2

Nai Lert Park

ohn

Wat Pathum Wanaram

Nak

Srapathum Palace

2 13

Chit Lom

lerm

Prathunam

Witthayu Bridge

Soi 32

Saeb c

Hua Chang Bridge

Soi 30

Khlong San

Ratchaprarop

Soi 19

Soi 15

ID Soi 20

Ratchathewi

Cha

Phetchaburi Soi 18

uri Rd

Soi 22

Phetchab

Soi 17

Soi 13

Embassies

Switzerland Finland ID Indonesia CO Colombia NL Netherlands NZ New Zealand QA Qatar UA Ukraine UK United Kingdom US United State VN Vietnam IT Italy CH FI

bangkok101.com

tR nan 8

Thaniya

Soi 4

Patpong 1 Patpong 2

8 Than Tawan Rd Soi 6

He nry

Trok Klue

Sap Rd s Naradhiwaind ra Rajanagar

Soi 12

Soi 10

Naret Rd

aya

Tha

Soi So ng Ph ra

i Rd

6 3 11

Sala Daeng

Soi 11 Yaek 3

Silom

Sala Daeng 1

Soi 6 b

CA Ram

Sala Daeng 1/1

Soi Phra Phinit

Suan Phlu Soi 1

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd

MX 12

Suan Suan

Soi 1

Sala Daeng Rd

St. Joseph School

Soi 5

Soi 7

Soi 8

Convent Rd

Soi 1

Soi 3

Soi 7

Soi 9 14

Soi 9

Soi 14

Charo

at 2

Chulalongkorn Hospital

Surawong Rd

Suan Phlu – Sathron Soi 3

janagarindra Rd

roe

at 1

Char

Cha

Soi 13

en R

Soi

King Mongkut’s University of Technology

Chong Nonsi

Soi 13 int Lou ise – Sathor n Soi 11

oen R

tho Sa

Surasak

Soi Phiphat 2

Soi Sa

So rn

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

Lumpini Park

Sathorn Nuea Rd Sathorn Tai Rd Soi 15

at Rd

un Kr n oe ar

So i5 7 S So oi 5 Ch i 61 9 aro en Kru ng

So So i 51 i5 3

Cha

Naradhiwas Ra

Suras ak

suri

Chulalongkorn University

Sam Yan

Pan Rd

i4 6 i5 1 0

Saphan Taksin

SathornSo

2 i4 So 44 i So

Iam

Silom Rd

Ta Taksin ksi nB rid g

chai

chit

Surawong Rd Kam

Soi Nom

Soi 14 Decho Rd

Oriental

Soi 1 8 Soi 16

Soi 38 Soi 40

Soi 2 6

Dumax

n Rd

Soi Santiphap

Soi 19

Wat Suwan

Rak– 1 Soi 3 6

Phloi

Soi Puttha Oso

Pramua

Bang

5 5 6

Soi 30

Soi 3

Sek Rd

Wat Muang Khae 6

Maha

Trok Ph et

Soi 32

Post

Soi 5

on Rd Na kh Soi 39

Soi 30

Si Phraya PT

Soi

Soi 13

Si Phraya

Soi 11

Hua Lamphong

Ma ha

Rd Krung Charo en

Cha roen

Khlong San

e Exp ressw ay

2 nd Stat

Nak hon

wang

Soi Sa

Phr aN akh are

Marine Dept.

Lat Ya Rd

Soi 22 Soi P/2ra– Prach um dit

Soi Wanit 2

siam/chit lom | MAP

13 4

Phlu

Soi Nantha Mozart

hlu 8

Immigration Oﬃce

Hotels

The Peninsula Bangkok 2 Millenium Hilton 3 Shangri-La Bangkok 4 Centre Point Hotel Silom 5 Mandarin Oriental Bangkok 6 Royal Orchid Sheraton 7 Lebua at State Tower 8 Holiday Inn 9 Pullman Bangkok Hotel G 10 Le Meridien 11 Crowne Plaza Bangkok Lumpini Park 12 Banyan Tree Bangkok 13 The Sukhothai Bangkok 14 W Bangkok 1

bangkok101.com

15 Ascott Sathorn Bangkok

Art to Art gallery Artery Gallery

Embassies

Austria BE Belgium Bars with Shopping CA Canada 1 Robinsons CE Germany Views 1 Three Sixty Lounge 2 River City Shopping GR Greece 2 Red Sky Bar 3 Silom Village FR France 3 Panorama 4 Silom/Patpong MY Malaysia 4 Vertigo Too Night-Market MX Mexico 5 Jim Thompson MN Myanmar Shop Surawong Nightlife PT Portugal 5 La Casa del 6 O.P. Place SG Singapore 7 Iconsiam Habano Bangkok 8 The Jam Factory 6 Bamboo Bar 9 Klongsan Plaza 7 Eat Me 8 Tapas

Arts & Culture

Serindia Gallery 2 Number 1 Gallery 3 Gossip Gallery 4 H Gallery 5 Bangkokian Museum 6 Kathmandu Photo Gallery 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry BTS Silom Line Subway Line Market

Sightseeing a b

Snake Farm MR Kukrit’s House

NOV/DEC 2019 | 103

MAP | yaowarat/pahurat (chinatown&little india ) Ma

na Na

rad

t Rd

Rama IV Rd

Yaowarat oi

aro

Kru

Tri i ngs

nit 1

at Rd

Song W

D oi

Rd et i Ph

Rajchawongse ut

a an Ph Saph

ng R

Sap

Princess Mother Memorial Park

Hotels

Grand China Princess 2 Shanghai Mansion Bangkok 1

200 m 1 000 ft

River Ferry River Cross Ferry Subway Line Railway Market

D Tha

ae in D

an aph

pir

Phu

han

Phu

Ba N

Tha Din Daeng

Memorial Bridge

Soi T

ha K

lang

ha R

Arts & Culture

Chalermkrung Theatre Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Centre 1 2

Temples

Wat Ratburana b Wat Phra Piren c Wat Bophit Phimuk Worawihan d Wat Chakrawat e Wat Chaichana Songkhram f Wat Mangkon Kamalawat g Wat Samphan thawongsaram Worawiharn h Wat Traimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha) i Wat Kanikapol j Wat Disanukaram a

Markets

Lang Krasuang Market Ban Mo (Hi-Fi Market) 1 Pak Khlong Talat (Flower Market) 1 Yot Phiman Market 1 Pahurat–Indian Fabric Market 1 Sampeng Market 1 Woeng Nakhon Kasem (Thieves Market) 1 Khlong Tom Market 1 Talat Kao (Old Market) 1 Talat Mai (New Market) 1 1

Sightseeing k

104 | NOV/DEC 2019

Chinatown Gate at the Odient Circle

bangkok101.com

Marine Dept. N

o nM

Rachini Rd Atsadang Rd

d at R

Mit

ra anu

Chaiyaphun

Trok Itsaranuphap

Mangkon

Soi Wa

YSoi3

Anu

Hua Lamphong Central Railway Station

Hua Lamphong

Mittrphan Rd 2 oi YS

Chi

Y Soi 9

Phadungdao–Soi Texas

Soi 18

Soi 4

Plang Nam

Soi 21

Soi 16 Soi 6

Soi 14 Soi 8

Y Soi 15

d ng R

itri

t Rd Song Sawa

Rd Soi 19

n Mangko

Sua Pa Rd Ratchawong Rd

Y Soi 21 Y Soi 19

Y Soi 23

Luean Rit d

Y Soi 11

1 Soi Aner Keng

Chakkrawat

at R

hur

Pha

R ari

rap

Sampeng Lane – Soi Wanit

Y Soi 17

Soi 17

Maha Chak

Soi 8

Soi 10

YS10 CKS12

Soi 15

Soi 11

Soi 13

9 So i

6 i So

Yaow

4 i So

Pha

Rd arat

Rd Chakphet

Rd hat rip

i So

i Sir So

ha kP

Tro

d iR Cha

ha Ma

Rd an

o Ph

ak Unng d R ng

o Th Ti

gR un Kr 1

g Ran

h tip

is W ok

s Ka

Charoen Krung Rd

t Rd

Romaneenart Park

Khlon

n Rd

t Phire

Wa Thom

Si Thammathirat

Sir

Trok Si

k Rd Woracha

Soi

hat

Chi

u Kr

ng R

Lua

itri

Mai

Ban Dok

ulin Soi Ch

rattanakosin (oldtown) | MAP Ra

m So

Rama VIII Bridge

its

VII

ulo

tP de

Sam sen

ok R d noe nN Dam

Dinso Rd

cha Rat at Rd

Boriph

Chai R

ak R Wo

Soi B

Khlon

an B

rach

g Ong

Ang

hir

at R

hai Rd

Ch ak

hit

Wat Chakrawat

Anu

at R

won

g Rd

on gR

Son

tch

lao

Bridg e

Maha

Rd Dinso

g Rd

okk

orial

at R

kraw

Chak

Phr

Wat Kanlayannamit

ai kY ko ng Ba

nR lon

Wat Bophit Pimuk

Market

Mem

ari Am Kh

d Pak Khlong Memorial Bridge

bangkok101.com

Sri

un Ar

et R

Yodpiman Wat Liap Market

kph

Rajinee

Ka sem

Cha

pho

ak ra

Phahurat Rd

et R

lat

m ha

Phir a

Wat Arun (Temple of the dawn)

an hak

Burapha Rd

Phra Phi Phit

Museum of Siam ett Soi S

Royal Theatre

Thip Wari

Ban Mo Rd

rat

Wat Arun

ho etup

ha Ma

Tha Tien

lon

t Rd

Wat Pho

Trok Phan um

Sam Yot

Charoen Krung Rd

Tri Phe

g Rd

Wan

ai Sanam Ch

Thai

ng R

Trok

ya Si

Lua

iph

Soi Phra

Wat Saket

Muang Rd

Rommaninat Park

Soi Sa So ng Soi Long Tha

Phan Fah Leelard

Wisu t

Saranrom Park

Soi Mahannop 2

Ratchabophit

Wat Ratchabophit

Soi S iricha i2 Soi S iricha i1

Soi Sirip at

Ti Thon

Khlong Lot

Saranrom

Trok Sukha 2

Rat

Bumrung Rd

Wat Suthat

Trok Sukha1

ng Rak

Wat Ratchanatdaram

mran

Una n Rd Siri Phka ong Rd

aitri Rd

Wat Ratchapradit

Damro

g Tai

Soi Sa

Giant Swing

uang Rd

Rd an Saw on h k Na Lan Luang Rd

Klan

Bor

Tanao Rd

Buranasat Rd

Trok Nava

City Hall

Phraeng Nara

noen

Sin

Mahanno

Bumrung M

Kalayana M

Grand Palace

Phraeng Phuthon

Wat Phra Kaew

Dam

Wat Ratchanatdaram

m Trok

Khru

Maha C

Lak Mueang Rd

Democracy Monument

ang Tai

on Rd

Na Phra Lan Rd

Trok

g Nuea

Tro

Fuang Nakh

Na Hap Phoei

e Rd Rachine g Rd Atsadan

noen Klan

Klang

noen Kl

Bunsiri

Ratcha

Soi Silipako

Soi Dam

noen

Trokat T hep Sath T hid ien a Ra

Damno

Sanam Luang

Pra cha T

Ch ae Tr ok Ka i

Rd en Nai

at Rd ra Th

n Rd

Na Ph

Maharat Rd

ake Khlo ng Lo t

S g oi ra BangSamse Su n Wat me Lamp 2 n R hu Bowonniwet d ViHara

Soi Dam

Trok

lon

Silpokaorn University

Chao Phraya

a Dam

Cha

Tha Chang

osa

n Tu

Wat Mahathat

Kha

R lao

K in

Amulet Market

tt Bu

sa Ka

Wang Lang

ais

ok Tr

Phra

Maharaj

National Arts Gallery

iW or

Ratch

Thammasart University

Wat Chana Songkhram

tP de m So ge id

Br Dua

lao

National Theatre

Railway

ttr

National Museum

Wat Rakhang

R oi

ink

11 Thonburi

ak kr a

aP hr

Khlong Bangkok Noi

Thonburi Railway

Ati

d tR

Phra Atith

a hr

asa

de m So

lao

hip ata i

K in 12

aP Phra Pin Klao Bridge N

d Rd R ng em ua as kL gK Lu run K

hr Wat Saodung

Rajchawongse

NOV/DEC 2019 | 105

SIGNING OFF | did you know?

The first hotel in Siam and Bangkok

ospitality industry first took off in in 1863 during the reign of King Rama IV. According to Dr Dan Beach Bradley’s annual newspaper in 1864, the pioneering hotels in Siam were Union Hotel, Boarding Hotel, Oriental Hotel, and Fisher’s Hotel. They were all managed by foreigners. Up until King Rama V’s era, the hotel business developed for more convenience and luxury in 1870. Electricity was first used at Oriental Hotel or Mandarin Oriental Bangkok in present time especially for its full-scale dining room. www.siammanussati.com/โรงแรมแห่งแรกในสยาม

106 | NOV/DEC 2019

bangkok101.com

Bangkok 101 November-December 2019

Articles inside

Supanniga Eating Room

Bangkok National Museum (Phra Nakhon)