Bangkok 101 - December 2009

publisher’s

letter

december 2009

December is a month of celebrations. First up, on December 5th, is that most holiest of national holidays: His Majesty the King’s birthday. On this, Father’s Day, the Sanam Luang area will be a sea of fairy lights and yellow shirts, as Thais crane to get a glimpse of their beloved monarch (something that may not be possible this year due to his recent ill-health). Then, of course, there’s Christmas, a foreign import that Buddhist Bangkok has gleefully co-opted, with sumptuous festive menus and towering Christmas trees popping up all over the city. Lastly, Bangkok celebrates its third New Year after the Chinese and Thai ones.

The city’s official 2010 countdown venue is at Centralworld square; but other lively locales will include crowd magnets like Khao San Road and Silom Road. Or for a classier night out, head to one of the riverside hotels, where you can enjoy world-class food as fireworks explode over the Chao Phraya River.

There’s so much happening this month – see Metrobeat on p.14 – but if you’re keen for a few days away from the holiday hustle, we serve up a multitude of choices, from a daytrip to Saraburi, where sunflowers are now in bloom, to our over the border destination, Vietnam’s sublime natural wonder Halong Bay. In Making Merit we also suggest an altruistic holiday – a chance to help establish The Surin Project, a new elephant reserve in Northeast Thailand. Not looking to leave town?

Then get on your bike and bomb it around Bang Krachao, an undeveloped peninsula only a five-minute boat ride from the city’s Klong Toey port.

Over in 1 on 1 we interview the owners of Q Bar, the nightclub that kickstarted Sukhumvit Soi 11’s nightlife renaissance and turns an enviable 10 years old this month (see Metrobeat for party details). And meanwhile our photo feature, by graphic designer Chatchai Boonyaprapatsara, playfully juxtaposes Bangkokians with city backgrounds – with thought-provoking and occasionally titter-worthy results.

As ever, we look forward to seeing a dog-eared copy of Bangkok 101 tucked under your arm as you race around enjoying this hive 01 caters angkok 1 what they B , of holiday action. In addition to all the festivities, December d se ia an unb ent and r more th er also heralds the arrival of something we look forward to with Independ rs who yearn fo s. It brings togeth , lle k rs e o te v o a ri b tr e w , y id almost equal relish – balmy weather. We hope this issue v ts u v g to sa y residen e result it ty, dated c h f ig o e o w . Th Wh inspires you to get out there and make the most of it. find in entators e Who’s l

What i1s01?

Bangkok

Merry Christmas!

Mason Florence Publisher

ritativ comm ly trave an autho ers and cultural of month off the d ri b y h h p t ra photog intelligen u on and pact and ine that takes yo employs the is a com z a 1 g 0 a 1 m and no ngkok d city track. Ba no fluff, no smut ght. guide an st ri u to u well-worn al standards, with nt cannot be bo , ri te rs o n e it o d d c a e l our re ditoria highest ls. Our e tain the focus on a ri to r e v ad ain to ensure rously m We rigo nd our mission is ity as much a c t a y this gre they enjo love living in it. as we

contributors Chatchai Boonyaprapatsara

Chatchai was trained in photography at the Bangkok Technical Campus and later received a BFA in graphic design from The Corcoran School of Art, in Washington DC. He has worked in advertising agencies for a number of years. City of Angles is the collective result of three years of using his spare time to capture unexpected juxtapositions on Bangkok’s streets.

Chatchai keeps on making his designs and working towards becoming a more serious photographer.

Noy Thrupkaew

Noy is a U.S. journalist and former Pew fellow in International Journalism and Fulbright fellow in contemporary Thai cinema. She writes frequently on international politics and culture. Noy has repor ted from Cuba, Iran, Morocco, Japan, and Cambodia, among other countries; for outlets including The Guardian, Marie Claire, Ms. and The American Prospect, where she is a senior correspondent.

Philip Cornwel-Smith

Very Thai author Philip Cornwel-Smith is a writer, editor and curator specialising in culture and travel. He has lived in Thailand for over a decade, editing its first listings magazine and the Time Out Bangkok guides, updating Thailand:A Traveller’s Companion, presenting Noodle Box: Bangkok on Discovery Channel, and squeezing Bangkok into the city’s first mobile phone guide for Nokia. Born in England, he has also written for Eyewitness: Thailand and international magazines.

Howard Richardson

Food and travel writer Howard Richardson lives beside the Chao Phraya River in downtown Bangkok, from where he’s spent 12 years exploring the city as magazine editor and freelance writer.

He’s contributed to publications such as GQ, the BBC’s Olive magazine and the New York Times online, and written a monthly column on Bangkok events and trends in Sawasdee, the Thai Airways inflight magazine. He also wrote the travel guide Bangkok Step by Step, published this year by Insight Guides.

Tom Mintier

From covering the Vietnam War as an army photographer to heading up CNN bureaus in London and Bangkok, Tom Mintier is one of the most recognised and respected media figures in Thailand today.

An Emmy award-winning television news journalist, Tom covered many events live for CNN, including the 1989 student uprising in Tiananmen Square and the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently a consultant at AMATA Corp and professor at Thammasat University in Bangkok, Tom continues to train local journalists.

Steven Pettifor

British-born writer-artist Steven Pettifor stopped over in Thailand 13 years ago on his way to Japan, but never left.

An authority on contemporary Thai art, Steven is a regular commentator on the local art scene, contributing to several international and domestic newspapers and journals. In 2004 he published the coffee-table book Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. When not art musing, he spends his time travel writing.

Korakot (Nym) Punlopruksa

N a t i v e - B a n g k o k w r i t e r, photographer and incurable travel addict, Nym believes in experiencing the world through food. She can usually be found canvassing the city for the best eats around. Nym has been a host for music and film programmes, a radio DJ, a creative consultant for television and a documentary scriptwriter. She is the author of several travel narratives, and her work appears in myriad magazines including ELLE, Elle Decoration, GM and Home & Décor.

Cheryl Tseng

An avid epicurean, Cheryl’s foodie credentials can be traced back to L.A., where she was a regular fixture at the tables of Wolfgang Puck and Nobu before their rise to culinary fame. She later brought her experienced palate to Bangkok, where she thrives on the new and delectable in the night-out culinary experience. Cheryl contributes to numerous magazines and her website, www.chicasia.com, gives the latest on Bangkok’s hippest venues.

Publisher Mason Florence Editor-in-Chief Dr. Jesda M.Tivayanond Managing Editor Max Crosbie-Jones Graphic Director Yuthtaya Sangnak Art Designer Narong Srisaiya Editorial Assistant Piyakwan Mettaprasert Strategists Nathinee Chen Sebastien Berger Contributing Writers Cheryl Tseng, Noy Thrupkaew, Steven Pettifor, Nick Measures, Joel Quenby, Korakot Punlopruksa, Liz Smailes, Leo Devillers, Philip Cornwel-Smith, Cassandra Beckford, Chirayu na Ranong, Alisara Chirapongse, Rikke Bjerge Johansen, Ashley Simcox, Brian Mertens Contributing Photographers Jatuporn Rutnin, Christian Phongphit, Paul Lefevre, Ludovic Cazeba, Austin Bush, Leon Schadeberg, Marc Schultz, Niran Choonhachat, Frédéric Belge, Somchai Phongphaisarnkit,TAT Director of Sales & Marketing Jhone El’Mamuwaldi Director of Business Development Simon Hughes Account Executives Jurairat Wannaprom Haluethai Wattanapathomvong Administrative Assistant Peeraya Nuchkuar Distribution Coordinator Tunwa Pankaew Published by Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd. 113 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, Bangkok 10330 T: 02-252-3900 F: 02-650-4557 info@talisman-media.com Designed by Letter Space T: 02-386-7181 F: 02-386-7182 letter_space2000@yahoo.com Printed by Allied Printers T: 02-240-3700 © Copyright Talisman Media Group Co., Ltd 2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written, prior permission of the publisher. Views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher, which accepts no responsibility for them.

table of

contents

december2009

snapshots

10 12

13 14 16 17 18 19

101 picks 1 on 1: david & andrew from q bar events calendar metro beat history religion customs very thai: fairy lights

sightseeing 20 21 22 24 26 28 30

32 33 35 36 37 38 40 42 45 46

orientation riverside route101: rattanakosin route101: chinatown route101: sukhumvit route 101: silom&sathorn route101: pathumwan siam and pratunam historic buildings temples kids in the city & shrines musuems the great outdoors in the neighbourhood day tripping daytrip: saraburi upcountry festivals over the border: halong bay

on the cover: a lady makes a donation for the renovation of Wat Bowonniwet, a temple in Bangkok’s Banglamphu district

50

arts 48 49 50 56 57 58 59

contemporary art exhibitions photo feature: city of angles performing arts cultural centres cinema reading & screening

37 12

42

19

44

table of

contents food & drinks 60 61 62 63 64 65 68 74 75 76 77 78 79 80

dining in bangkok meal deal thai cuisine thai sweets street eats thai restaurants chic bangkok dim-sum brunching tea late dining sweet treats all you can eat wine

92 94 96

december2009

live music nightlife areas pub crawling

shopping 98 99 101 102 104 105

unique boutique stuff bangkok design mall crawl markets sidewalks

108

accommodation 106 boutique bangkok

nightlife 82 84 86 88 89 90

one night in bangkok nightclubs bars with a view hotel bars boho bars jazz clubs

health & wellness 108 109 110 111

body & beauty spas wellness centres medical tourism

115

sports

112 spectator sports 113 active sports

courses & services 75

98

114

115

cooking, meditation & thai massage courses making merit: elephant nature foundation

business 116 business 117 real estate

reference 78

106

118 survival thai 119 contacts 120 getting around

Snapshots

101 picks

10

Before dashing off to a tropical island or the mountains, scratch beneath the city’s gritty surface to discover gems that’ll keep you here longer.

We’ve compiled our Bangkok favourites here.

one night in bangkok

shopping

thai style

food heaven

open air

■ Chatuchak A huge, sprawling village of a market, selling everything under the sun. Cramped, steamy and lots of fun (p.104).

■ Making Merit Donate food to monks, release birds, or light incense sticks at a temple – and pray for good karma (p.115).

■ Beautiful Brunches L a ze a r o u n d w i t h friends, newspapers for those great late breakfasts (p. 75).

■ Dusit District Filled with lovely airy boulevards, a big zoo & Vimanmek Mansion’s gorgeous greener y (p.32).

■ Bars & Clubs Sleep all day. Party all night. Never grow old.

It’s fun to be a Bangkokian (pp.82-97).

■ Suan Lum Night Bazaar A pleasant evening market with arts, crafts and textiles. And a massive beer garden (p.104).

■ Thai Massage A cracking good time – though not for the faint hearted (p.108).

■ Food Courts Love cheap Thai food but love air-con more?

Get thee to a food court (p.71).

■ On the River Take an express boat up to Nonthaburi or explore the canal communities of Thonburi (p.21).

■ Cabarets Wow, she is beautiful.

Such a graceful dancer.

And what a figure!

Eh… what do you mean “he”? (p.85).

■ Siam Square All the young dudes head to this cradle of cool for the latest flicks and threads (p.101).

■ Thai Cooking Classes Learn to pound a proper paste like a pro (p.114).

■ Riverside Dining The Chao Phraya River makes for an awesome backdrop.And there are plenty of good restaurant options (p.21).

■ Cycling Tour Maybe not an obvious choice, but these tours are surprisingly popular (p.113).

■ High Attitude Bars Slinky cocktails at eight miles high. Not cheap, but well worth it (p.86).

■ Patpong A thin strip in the CBD jam-packed with market stalls and, er, go-go bars (p.105).

■ Thai Boxing The brutal, quintessentially Thai form of kickboxing (p.112).

■ Meal Deals Take advantage of special offers to eat at some of the city’s best restaurants (p.61).

■ Ancient City Cycle round the museum park of Muang Boran, and see Thailand in miniature! (p.40).

■ Dining Cruises Stuff your face as you wind your way along the Chao Phraya (p.61).

■ Panthip Plaza The ultimate computer-geek mecca. If you can’t find it here you just haven’t looked hard enough (p.102).

■ TCDC Cool, creative learning space for Thai designers (p.57).

■ Street Food Pull up a plastic stool and get ready to point and shoot (p.64).

■ Lumpini Park A huge green space in the heart of the city.

Perfect for jogging, picnics and boating on the ponds (p.37).

■ Carnivalesque Get wiggly on Khao San, jiggly at RCA or giggly on Soi 11 (p.95).

■ Paragon & CentralWorld Two of the swishest mega-malls you’re ever likely to encounter. Fancy a Ferrari? That’ll be the third floor (p.102).

■ Jim Thompson House & Silk Shop This former spook rebuilt the Thai silk trade then disappeared. Nice house though (p.32).

■ Affordable Gourmet Food If you prefer foie gras to fried insects, Bangkok needn’t break the bank (p.65).

■ Flower Market Close your eyes and inhale deeply. 24-hour marigold madness. (p.104)

■ Theatre TraditionalThai wooden puppet shows, classical Thai drama or breathtaking extravaganzas – no tux required (p.58)

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bangkok 101

Snapshots

1 on 1

David and Andrew from Q Bar

Ten years ago Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Soi 11 looked much like any other backstreet in the area. Today it’s thronged with swanky bars, restaurants and nightclubs. This can largely be put down to the vision and hard-graft of Q Bar: the first international-class venue to settle there. On the eve of its 10th birthday, we sat down with owners David Jacobson and Andrew Clark on the nightclubs outdoor terrace to mull over the secrets of their success…

10 years and counting... what is Q Bar’s secret?

David: Consistency. We never stop trying to improve Q Bar. We create a place we like to hang out.

Andrew: In the early years I had a list of eight ‘Golden Rules’; however, after 10 years in Bangkok now, it truly comes down to perseverance.

Q Bar’s two floors have very different atmospheres. Which one do you hang out in?

David: Upstairs. I’m too old for downstairs. I like conversation more than dancing.

Andrew: I prefer the upstairs terrace as it’s comfortable to sit and talk all night long.

Any advice for fellow foreigners wanting to own a bar in Thailand?

David: Think again. Don’t!

Andrew: Listen to advice from people who have succeeded and don’t listen to all the others who have failed or are looking for something from you.

You’re both very different characters. What do you each bring to the Q Bar dynamic?

David: Andrew brings sanity, I bring passion.

Andrew: David and I are very ‘Ying Yang’. It’s the combination of our different viewpoints, and more 12

importantly, the fact that we listen to each other and learn from each other that makes Q Bar succeed.

All time fave DJ appearance?

David: Kid Koala.

Andrew: I remember DJ Marky being a great night with a dancefloor full of Brazilian models and a crowd going wild over the music.

You must have witnessed some Q Bar celebrity shenanigans?

David: Steven Seagal trying to impress cuties who didn’t have a clue who he was.

Andrew: We try to not make a big fuss over celebrities so they feel comfortable blending in at Q Bar. That said, I do remember pissing off Steven Seagal because I refused to pimp for him.

Your punters are a colourful bunch – any funny stories?

David: One drunk fool who was escorted out of the club got in his car and tried to drive over the front stairs to smash his car into the club.

The stairs won!

Andrew: In the early years, there were a few incidents with “do you know who my father is?” kind of characters. And I’ve had fascinating one-way conversations with Liberian strongman Charles Taylor’s bodyguard and loose Russian women swearing snapshots

they were Phuket lawyers.

Which other bars do you recommend to visitors?

David: Bed Supperclub first and foremost.

Andrew: To get a more local feel of the city, I always recommend some of the new Thai clubs on Thonglor and Ekamai.

Any restaurant recommendations?

David: The Seafood Bar that just opened on Sukhumvit soi 16; Giusto, Enoteca and Opus for Italian; and Isao for Japanese fusion.

Andrew: I have to refer to Bangkok 101 to remember which ones I crave at the moment.

Where do you go to escape the city?

David: Phuket, Samet and Hua Hin. Andrew: I regularly head to the beach and islands for downtime and the other Asian capitals to find clothes that fit me.

Which sights do you send outof-towners to?

David: Jim Thompson’s House. It’s not exhausting and offers a good introduction to Thai style.

Andrew: The best excursion in and around Bangkok is a long-tail boat Klong tour through time-warped Thonburi and Bangkok Noi. bangkok 101

december calender Throughout December: Greenspace by Greyhound

Tue 1 – Sun 13: The 26th Thailand International Motor Expo 2009

18-20th floor, Zen World, CentralWorld Shopping Mall | www.i-greenspace. com/thenewmasterpiece

Impact Muang Thong Thani | 02-641-8444 | www.autoinfo.co.th | B80 Thailand’s biggest annual car show.

Sun 6: Stanton Warriors

Tue 8: Jazz in the Theatre

See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | B800 Bassbin and cranium rattling breakbeat from a well-known UK DJ/ producer duo.

Aksra Theatre, King Power Soi Rangnam | 02-262-3456 | www. thaiticketmajor.com | B1,500- 2,000 Young Swedish jazz singer Simone Kopmajer performs with pianist John di Martino.

Thu 10 – Sun 13: International Street Show in Bangkok

Fri 11 – Sat 12: NIU’S 1st International Bangkok Jazz Festival

Lumpini Park |02-8332000 | www.bangkokstreetshow. com | free See Metrobeat ‘Theatre’

Next to Niu’s on Silom, Silom Road between Soi 17-19 | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B3,500-6,000 See p.91

Wed 2: Trooping of the Colour Royal Plaza Dusit See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Wed 9: S3QUENCE Zen Event Gallery, Central World | 02-6110900 | www.opworldwide.com | B1,490-2,490 See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Until Sun 13: Flower Festival

SF Cinema, Central World | 02-657-5601 | www.britishcouncil.or.th | B100 See Metrobeat ‘Film’

Wed 9: DJ Martin Solveig

Thu 10 – Sun 13: Bonjour French Fair 2009

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | B1,000 French house music spinner comes back to Bed.

Mon 21 – Thu 31: Bangkok New Year Celebrations

Mon 21: DJ Judge Jules

808, RCA | 089-1699195 | www.risebangkok. com | B900 – 1,000 See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Sanam Suepa (Opp. Suan Ampon) | 02-262-3456 | www.thaiticketmajor.com | B1,200 Open-air concert featuring acts like Thailand’s Groove Riders, Australia’s Lenka and UK sophisti-pop duo Swing Out Sister.

Bed Supperclub, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | B800 The “judge” plays pumping, some would say, throwaway house music.

bangkok 101

Goethe Institut, Sathorn | 02-287-0942-4 | www.goethe.de/bangkok |free See Metrobeat ‘Film’

Tue 15 – Thu 17: Art Square # 7

Sat 19: Bangkok Decembery

Bamboo Bar, Mandarin Oriental | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental. com | free See Metrobeat ‘Jazz’

Thu 3 – Fri 11: British Film Festival 2009

Rama IX Park, Sukhumvit 103 | 02-328-1385-6 | www.suanluangrama9. or.th | B10 See Metrobeat ‘Festival’

Fri 18: Imran Khan Live in Bangkok

Until Sun 28 Feb: Denise Thimes

Wed 2 – Wed 3 Mar: The German Open Air Cinema

Carpark @ Jamjuree Gallery, Chulalongkorn University, Phayathai Rd. | 02-218-3709 | 4pm-9pm | jamjureeartgallery.blogspot. com | free Music, performances, movies and handmade stuff – a bohemian carpark sale.

Various venue | TAT Call Center 1672 | http://thai. tourismthailand.org See Metrobeat ‘Events’

TRADE FAIR VENUES Queen Sirikit National Convention Center (QSNCC) New Ratchadapisek Rd, | MRT QSNCC | 02-229-4253 | www.qsncc.co.th IMPACT Muang Thong Thani Pakkred, Nonthaburi | 02-504-5050 | www.impact.co.th Bangkok International Trade & Exhibition Centre (BITEC) Bangna-Trad Rd, Bangna | 02-749-3939 | www.bitec.net

snapshots

QSNCC | 02-640-8013, 02-636-1422-24 | www.qsncc.co.th | free See Metrobeat ‘Festivals’

Thu 17: Q Bar 10th Anniversary QBar, Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-252-3274 | www.qbarbangkok.com See Metrobeat ‘Nightlife’

Until Sun 27: Music @ TCDC 6th Fl. The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24| 02-6648448 | www.tcdc.or.th | free See Metrobeat ‘Events’

Trade Fairs Performance Live Music Shopping Festivals/Events Food & Drink Charity Sport Nightlife

13

Snapshots

metro beat

The pick of Bangkok’s hottest news, trends, events and openings,

events

nightlife Bollywood and Bhangra come to the capital with Imran Khan leading a quartet of performers at Bangkok’s 808 on December 18.

Singer Imran’s track ‘Ni Nachleh’ hit Number One on several charts and his album Unforgettable, was notable for fusing R n B, Hip Hop and House with Punjabi music.

Also appearing are the UK’s leading Desi DJ, Mr Kay; Singapore’s DJ Sunil Primalani; and, from Bangkok, DJ Ash. Tickets (B900, or B1,000 after 11pm) include one drink. For more information see www.risebangkok.com.

The organisers say S3QUENCE will be Asia’s first three-city music festival when it plays Bangkok, Pattaya, and Phuket on December 9, 10, and 11 respectively.

The Bangkok party, at Zen Event Gallery, Central World, features headliner Armin van Buuren, who was voted world number one DJ in 2008 by DJ Magazine.

He’ll play tracks from his best selling State of Trance remixes. Support comes from electro upstart TIGA, and Alex Gaudino, known for hits like ‘Destination Unknown’ and ‘Watch Out’. There are line-up variations for Phuket and Pattaya. Check www.opworldwide.com for tickets and more info.

Is it really a decade since Bangkok’s nightlife scene made that giant leap into world standard dance parties?

Apparently so, as the Q Bar 10th Anniversary celebration will testify on December 17. Over the years, DJ acts have included Kid Koala, DJ Cash Money and Jazzy Jeff, while the likes of Mick Jagger, Matt Dillon and Ollie Stone have watched them. Q Bar switched on the light. Let’s go celebrate. www.qbarbangkok.com

theatre Buskers will be out in force for the International Street Show in Bangkok, held in Lumpini Park from December 10-13. Street performers from around the world, either strolling the green spaces or located at one of several stages around the park, will include mime artists, clowns, acrobats, contortionists and sword swallowers. Shows run from 3pm-9pm. Entrance free.

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In the Trooping of the Colour, at Royal Plaza Dusit, on December 2, members of the Royal Guards dressed in full regalia pledge allegiance to the monarchy in a colourful parade past the royal family. Thailand celebrates the King’s Birthday on December 5, when the streets around Ratchadamnoen Avenue and the Grand Palace will be decked in royal regalia and fairy lights. Sanam Luang, the royal ceremonial fields, will hold a cultural festival to mark the occasion. The date, which is a public holiday, is also Father’s Day in Thailand.

The strangely named Hands Bangkok Countdown at Central World Square is part of the official Bangkok New Year Celebrations. It features a series of concerts, fireworks and sound and light shows in a beer garden atmosphere from December 21 until New Year’s Eve. Other countdown parties are at National Stadium, with stars from GMM Grammy Records supplying the entertainment, and at Sanam Luang, where classical dance and folk songs will provide a more traditional atmosphere.

For more information call the TAT Hotline at 1672.

Music@TCDC has programmes of live music and short films every Saturday and Sunday at Kiosk, TCDC, until December 27. Shows run two hours from 5.30pm.

Free admission. Call the TCDC Information Counter (02-664-8448) for details.

Beer gardens are an annual feature, as punters rush outside to enjoy the cool season weather.

CentralWorld plaza will be thronged with them, but this year’s most ambitious will likely be Greenspace

by Greyhound, balanced on the roof of Zen Department store (www.zen.co.th). There’ll be three floors of futuristic lighting, food by Greyhound Café, live concerts and electric city views. Not to mention chilled ale served by mini-skirted ‘pretties’, as they’re called in the trade. It could fill up fast. Book tables at www.i-greenspace.com/ thenewmasterpiece.

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bangkok 101

Food & drink

There are seven films in this year’s British Film Festival, at SF Cinema World, Central World from December 3-11.

The Age of Stupid, described as a documentary/drama/ animation hybrid, asks “Why didn’t we stop climate change when we still had the chance?”, and It’s A Free World, directed by Ken Loach, won Best Screenplay at the 2007 Venice Film Festival. Michael Caine’s latest Is Anybody There? will also appear, as will the Eric Cantona pic Looking for Eric. Finally, there’s Thomas & Friends, narrated by Pierce Brosnan, and Airplay UK, a showcase of music videos and interviews with music industry commentators.

The German Open Air Cinema season screens contemporary films every Wednesday at 7.30pm, until February, in the gardens of the Goethe Institut (02-2870942). All films are in German with English subtitles. Free Admission. For schedules visit www.goethe.de/bangkok.

festivals The Flower Festival @ Rama IX Park offers far more than the name suggests, as it includes a Rama IX history exhibition, art exhibition, dog show, cultural performance, fortuneteller, and food fair. The park has permanent botanical gardens and displays of native plant species, so it’s an ideal venue for the show. Until December 10.

There’s a raft of Gallic produce, including food, wine, cosmetics and fashion, on display at the Bonjour French Fair 2009, from December 10-13 at the Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre (02-229-3000).

There are full details at www.qsncc.com.

jazz There’s some exceptionally hot music coming to Niu’s 1st International Bangkok Jazz Festival on December 11 and 12, with four acts on each night in the open air plaza next to Niu’s on Silom jazz club. See p.91 for more.

Denise Thimes, the new resident singer at the Bamboo Bar, in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel (02-6599000) is in town until February 28. Her back catalogue includes gigs with Clark Terry and James Moody, and, according to her press release, Queen Elizabeth II handpicked her to perform at a gala dinner. Nightly except Sundays from 10pm. bangkok 101

Bonjour

Bonjour holds an ace in the cooking of chef Thierry Enderlin; some of the best we’ve had this year. He comes to Bangkok with impressive credentials, having worked with Michelin-starred Alain Ducasse for a decade, and brings a traditional French menu using 90% imported ingredients. They shine through in slow cooked Bresse pigeon on a bed of Savoy cabbage, back bacon and Salmi sauce; and again in panfried girole mushrooms with foie gras, white chicken croquet and truffle.

Great quality product, WHERE 1217/2 perfectly executed. It’s Sukhumvit Rd, between a real stand out.

Soi 59 & 61, 02-714-2112 Bonjour positions OPEN Daily 11am-10pm itself plumb in the PRICE $$$$ fine dining category.

The L-shaped room has heavy linen tablecloths, ornate chandeliers (although hidden behind shades) and gold display plates – the props of old style French high dining.

And prices are in the same bracket. Prominent on the menu is Iranian Beluga caviar, at B29,500 for 50grams, and the cheapest meat dish is B1,750.

Operating in this rarefied atmosphere, everything should be perfect. While service was really friendly, some would find it a little clunky, and the wild Dover Sole was too long in the pan. Not sure how that managed to leave the kitchen. At its best, though, the food is superb, and that’s a rare commodity. We’ll be going back to Bonjour.

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Photos of Bonjour by Chayasett Pattana

film

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Snapshots ee

history

Grand Palace

B

angkok became the capital of Thailand in 1782, when the royal court relocated from the city of Ayutthaya, which had been left in ruins following years of conflict with the Burmese. After settling temporarily on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River in Thonburi, the capital moved again, this time to the area of Rattanakosin in present-day Bangkok.

Almost entirely surrounded by water, the new location was easier to defend against potential attacks. The final move marked the beginning of the Chakri Dynasty. Rama I named the new capital Krung Thep (City of Angels) in reference to the past glories of Ayutthaya, and he ordered the construction of two of the Kingdom’s most illustrious religious monuments, Wat Phra Kaew and the Grand Palace, to consolidate the new capital’s ruling status.

During the subsequent reigns of King Mongkut (Rama IV) and his son King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), the city developed rapidly, culminating in the modernisation and explosive growth of the 20th century. After visiting European capitals, Rama V moved the royal family to the leafy enclave of Dusit.

The modern architectural monuments built in this neighbourhood include the Thai Parliament Building, the impressive marble Wat Benchama Bophit and the enormous teak Vimanmek Mansion.

Greater Bangkok now occupies nearly 1.5 square kilometres and is home to some 12 million residents.

Rattanakosin remains the spiritual centre of the city, graced by the dazzling splendour of the Grand Palace, Wat Phra Kaew and nearby Wat Po. Modern downtown Bangkok stretches southeast of Rattanakosin and looks very much like many other Southeast Asian capitals, with gleaming skyscrapers, deluxe apartment projects and lots of snarled traffic. The core of the new city encompasses the Sathorn/Silom

16

districts and Sukhumvit Road, which include upscale shopping plazas and leafy public parks. These major downtown neighbourhoods are connected by the BTS Skytrain and the MRT subway systems. These gradually-expanding public transpor tation networks, with their

bright, snaking trains carrying wideeyed tourists and weary commuters alike, have not only helped relieve the city’s notorious traffic congestion and pollution, but given this City of Angels a modern, 21st-century feel.

Take a deep breath Thais rarely call their capital ‘Bangkok’ but instead refer to it as ‘Krung Thep’ (City of Angels), an abbreviated version of the full ceremonial and official name. This can be translated as ‘The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn.’ It is no surprise that The Guinness Book of Records registered it as the world´s longest name for a capital. snapshots

bangkok 101

religion

T

Did you know?

h e majorit y of enlightened (mural paintThai Buddhist Thais (over 90%) ings in Thai temples often monks once a re T h e r av ad a depict tales of his former dyed their B udd his t s , w i t h t he lives, called jataka), so most own robes rest of the population Thais focus on attaining with colour split between Muslims, a better rebirth through extracted Christians, Sikhs and “making merit” – donating from turmeric and the Hindus. Older animist to the poor or a temple, or beliefs also remain, prac- heartwood and handing out rice to monks leaves from tised alongside a verduring their morning almsjackfruit trees; gathering processions. sion of the Buddhism now most that originated with the Nearly all Thai Buddhist robes come teachings of Siddhartha men will become monks, chemically Gautama, the Buddha, if only for a short time. dyed. in India around the 6th Women cannot be ordained century BC. but some become nuns, alTheravada Buddhism is based on though their numbers remain low. the concepts of dukkha (suffering), Contrary to Western perceptions of anicca (impermanence and tran- Buddhism as a religion above the fray sience), and anatta (impermanence of everyday life, monks and nuns have of the self) – suffering arises through launched HIV-education and drugattachment to impermanent condi- prevention campaigns, orphanages, tions. By working to extinguish at- and other social programmes. More tachment through meditation and controversially, a number of monks proper conduct, Buddhist practi- have begun advocating that Buddhism tioners can eventually attain spiri- should be enshrined in the new contual enlightenment (nirvana), freeing stitution as Thailand’s state religion. them from cycles of rebirth. A soul For more information on Buddhism is reborn according to its progress and meditation courses, check out (or lack of it) towards nirvana, with the World Fellowship of Buddhists at animals forming lower strata and www.wfb-hq.org and the international monks occupying the top. The Bud- homepage of Vipassana meditation dha himself took 550 lives to become centres at www.dhamma.org.

bangkok 101

snapshots

Spirit houses Hand in hand with their Buddhist faith, Thais still hold many animist beliefs.

Spirit worship is widely practised and spirit houses can be seen on the corner of most residential and commercial properties. By providing the spirits (good and evil) with shelter, it’s hoped that they will protect houses or buildings from any harm or mischief. To make sure the spirits are kept happy, offerings of incense, fruit, flowers or rice are made every day.

17

Snapshots

customs

F

oreign visitors to Thailand are not expected to understand all the intricate subtleties of Thai customs, but by learning something about them and trying to incorporate them into your behaviour, you will show respect for local people and avoid some potentially embarrassing situations.

In Thailand, two institutions take on particular importance: the monarchy and religion.

Did you know?

Every day has a corresponding colour in Thailand, and throngs of locals will don a yellow shirt to show their respects and celebrate the 80th birthday of the King, who was born on the yellow-themed Monday.

The Monarchy Thai people love their king with deep reverence for the monarchy. By way of proof, portraits of their majesties are displayed in most shops and businesses. Like anybody else, you are expected to be respectful towards members of the royal family.Therefore, stand quietly when the national anthem is played, which happens daily at 8am and 6pm in parks and other public places.

Social hierarchy Age, social rank, lineal descent, salary and education are all considerations for social conduct. Such hierarchy is demonstrated 18

at every moment of the day, even the way of greeting.Thais don’t usually shake hands but rather wai (a prayerlike gesture with hands clasped in front of the face).This action means ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ but also shows respect and humility.The higher the hands are raised, the more respect is being paid.

Losing face Thais are known to be patient and calm. Being jai yen (coolhearted) is highly admired in Thai culture. Any impulsive reactions that may show annoyance (i.e. raising your voice) are considered unseemly, counterproductive and can make you ‘lose face’.

Losing your temper should be avoided; things will work themselves out much better if you remain calm. Practise the words mai pen rai (meaning “never mind”).

Body parts The head is considered to be the most sacred par t of the body while the snapshots

feet are the lowest, hence the most impure. For this reason, it is impolite to pat or touch somebody on the head (this applies even to children) and it is particularly rude to point your feet at somebody or to place them on a table or a chair. Pointing the finger at other people is also considered impolite – best to gesture with an open hand.

Temple Etiquette

As temples and Buddha images are considered sacred, certain rules of respect should be followed when visiting temples: ■ dress properly (long trousers or dresses, covered shoulders) ■ remove your shoes at the entrance of temple buildings ■ don’t step on the threshold ■ don’t sit pointing your feet towards a Buddha image ■ avoid touching Buddha images or chedis (funeral monuments) ■ be considerate when taking photographs ■ Buddhist monks are forbidden to touch or be touched by women. So, if a woman gives something to a monk, she must first pass it to a man or put it on a piece of cloth

bangkok 101

very thai Philip Cornwel-Smith

Fairy Lights

Brightening the night with twinkling bulbs and fluorescent tubes

I

Photos by John Goss & Philip Cornwel-Smith

n 2000, Bangkok earned a surprising first: it was named the world’s dimmest metropolis. This honour in the fight against light pollution didn’t gratify, however, in a land where light isn’t just bright, but right. So regardless of need, then-governor Samak Sundaravej ordered streetlamps strengthened.

In dark old Siam, as highly prized as light itself were things that reflect. The shinier the surface, the less light source required, the greater the impact. Silk and bead encrusted costumes, mirror tiled temples, lustrous gold – quality and status could be measured by the power to dazzle. And like fairly lights, their fragmented glinting conjured the infinity of Buddhist cosmology.

Light confers beauty, wisdom, prestige, so the more you emit the brighter your prospects, the greater the tribute to those you welcome and worship. Hence the myriad tiny lamps swathing portraits of monarchy, images of Buddha and most spirit houses.

Because of light’s classy connotations, fairy lights are a quick fix in cases of pak chee roi naa (“garnishing the face with parsley to boost the mundane”). Faced with a dreary stall, a tawdry bar, a dingy restaurant, there’s no need to call in décor consultants; buy up strings of bulbs from any local store at B30 a metre. Coloured or plain; flashing, pulsing or still; outlining architecture or writing out words – all call attention to something otherwise plain. Same deal with the tuk-tuk, where brake lights and indicators are joined by starbursts of green, blue and pink. When shops and stalls need passing trade, fairy lights say “buy from me”.

Very Thai: Everyday Popular Culture is a book that almost every foreigner living in Bangkok has on their bookshelf, a virtual bible on Thailand’s pop culture. For page after colourful page, author Philip Cornwel-Smith guides readers on an unconventional tour of the quirky everyday things that make Thailand truly Thai. From the 60-plus mini-chapters, we present a different excerpt each month. Prepare yourself for the sideways logic in what seems exotic. Snap up a copy at any good book shop.

Very Thai – River Books l B995 l hardcover, with photos by John Goss and Philip Cornwel-Smith bangkok 101

snapshots

19

Sightseeing

orientation

greater bangkok Cha

o

Thewet & Dusit

ph r a

ya

Ko Rattanakosin

op

a

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Thonburi

Chinatown

Siam Square & Pratunam

Sukhumvit Chaophraya

20

roads. But the Skytrain (BTS) and Underground (MRT) networks are better allies – whiz above or below the gridlocked streets in fridge-cool comfort!

When these can’t help you (when heading from downtown Bangkok to the Old City for instance) hop on a river expressboat, accessible via Saphan Taksin Skytrain station (see opposite). Alternatively, seek out a pier along smelly Klong Saen Saeb (p.120) and clamber (carefully) aboard one of its zippy boats.

Other tips include avoid scammers (p.29), carry small change and, if visiting temples, dress properly (p.18). In a city as potentially aggravating as Bangkok, it’s also worth planning. Do you really want to be traipsing round temples all day? Exactly. For ideas check out the following Route 101’s – these itineraries introduce the most notable sights in the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods.

Don’t follow them to the letter however – getting hopelessly lost as you wander down one interesting looking side-street after another is half the fun.

Ch

Smeared over the flat, flood-prone Chao Phraya river plain, Bangkok at first appears about as organised as a bowl of spaghetti. The fact that there isn’t one all-singing, all-dancing city centre doesn’t help matters. Delve in though and you’ll discover a sprawling megalopolis with a series of distinct neighbourhoods that have evolved over the centuries and have different, tourist-luring attributes.

On the west side of the river, glimpses of the Venice of the East survive down the criss-crossing canals of former capital Thonburi. On the east, historic monuments like the Grand Palace are sprinkled like gold dust through former royal HQ Ko Rattanakosin (p.22) – the city’s most revered neighbourhood by far. Fringing it are the old shophouse communities of Phra Nakorn and Banglamphu, the latter of which includes backpacker ghetto Khao San Road. South of Ko Rattanakosin is the city’s congested, chaotic and must-see Chinatown.

And crowning Banglamphu is royal and government enclave Dusit with its grand, tree-shaded boulevards a la 19th Century Europe.

When temple fatigue strikes head east for the urban hurly burly – steel towers, snarled traffic and snaking expressways – that is Modern Bangkok.

Silom and Sathorn are busy business arteries linking the riverside’s old colonial style mercantile buildings and posh hotels to the city’s green lung, Lumpini Park. Seething Sukhumvit Road and its branching sois (where internationals tend to live, work and play) offer few sights but untold opportunities for drinking, dining and debauchery. And Pathumwan (p.30) is where it’s at for shopping, be it at glitzy mall or gritty market.

All these neighbourhoods (and the city’s intermittently interesting ‘burbs) can be reached using the city’s

Riverside

Pathumwan& Lumphini

Silom & Sathorn sightseeing

bangkok 101

ban

the riverside

N16-N30 Head north and concrete seques into greenery as expressboats sprint up to their terminus at Nonthaburi, a charming provincial town.

N13 : Phra Athit Bkk’s young bohemians pensively sip coffee in the cute shophouse cafes that line this leafy old street. There’s a quiet park and the hedonistic madhouse that is Khao San Road is around the corner.

M

N15 :Thewet Feed the catfish, peruse a flower and wet market, or dine overlooking the nearby Rama VIII suspension bridge. Stately royal district, Dusit, is a short taxi ride away.

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N9 : Tha Chang Thai icons ahoy! Turn left for Wat Mahatat and the Amulet market.

Walk straight ahead for the Grand Palace and Sanam Luang. Hungry?

The pedestrian area in front of the jetty is packed with old-school food stalls.

Ph

Amulet Market

Wat Phra Kaew (Temple of the Emerald Buddha)

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Na Phra Lan Rd.

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Kalayang Matri Rd.

lang Rd.

N5 : Ratchawongse Bangkok’s Chinatown! Taoist temples, mazy backstreets, mottled shophouses and no end of Sino sights, noises Rd. Muangand smells make it a must.

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Millenium Hilton

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bangkok 101

o Ta

Penninsula

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Saphan Taksin Accessible via the Skytrain’s Saphan Taksin Station. Alight here for shuttle boats back to Mandarin Oriental, Pennisula and Millenium Hilton hotels.

Or if staying in Silom, Sathorn or Sukhumvit.

N1 : Oriental The old western quarter. Admire neglected neoclassical edifices and Oriental object’s d’arts at OP Place, then take tea at Bangkok’s most illustrious hotel, the Mandarin Oriental.

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N6 : Memorial Bridge/ Saphan Pood Venture left for decrepit godowns (warehouses) teeming with veg and flowers; i.e. Pak Klong Talad, the 24-hour fresh market. Head straight for Bangkok’s Little India, Pahurat. At night there’s a clothing market popular with teens.

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N6 Wat Arun

N2 : Sri Phaya On the left is River City: 4 barren-floors of SE Asian antiques, ethnic reproductions, tailors and tat. To your right, the Royal Orchid Sheraton.

Charoen Krung Rd.

ai Rd. Sanam Ch

N8

N15

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Wat Mahatat

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N10 : Wang Lang Wat Rakhang, the macabre Forensic’s Museum, a teenfashion clothing market and Patravadi Theatre (p.56) are all in the vicinity.

N8 :Tha Tien Lovely King Rama V-era shophouses sell dried fish but Wat Po – home of the reclining Buddha – is the main attraction.

Wat Arun (p.31) looms large on the far bank. Catch a cross-river ferry to it for B3.

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101

Though tall ships no longer sail into Bangkok, its churning river – the Mae Nam Chao Phraya – remains important to city life. Long tails, tug boats and pleasure cruisers ply the water, while sunburnt temples, neoclassic buildings, mottled warehouses, stilt homes and a fair few modern monstrosities (hotels, office blocks etc) look on.The best way to encounter all this is by expressboat, which follows a 33km route from Wat Rajsingkorn in the south to Nonthaburi in the north. Fares (usually no more than B13) are payable on board, and during rushhour the boats thronged with office-workers, students and saffron-robed monks. Read up on most interesting piers here then hop aboard! For more about routes, fares and timetables see www.chaophrayaboat.co.th

Wongwian Yai

Krung Thonburi Rd. KrungThonburi

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sightseeing

21

Sightseeing

route 101

Whether your stay in Bangkok is for a few hours, a few days or more, absolutely any itinerary should include the ‘old city’ of Rattanakosin. From exquisite temples to ancient Thai massage, it’s all here.

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22

famous Thai massage school. into the National Museum (p.36).

Temple initiation over, head north Depending on your body and foot for the granddaddy of Bangkok sights: fatigue, you will probably find it is early the Grand Palace (p.33) and Wat evening. The rest of your evening is up Phra Kaew, the Temple of the Emerald to you – Rattanakosin has plenty of Buddha (p.31). Snub the touts telling options. A good place to unwind over Wat Sam you it’s closed, and take plenty Phraya of time a drink or a meal is at one of the artsy Pier to pace, reverentially, around this gildedKhin Lom eateries near the fort, along Phra Athit Saphan fairytale of a royal complex (note: theChomRoad.

Alternatively, grab a beer and B300 ticket is alsoPhraSaphan valid for Dusit’s some pad thai with the backpackers Pin Klao Pier d oa Vimanmek Mansion, p.30). Hungry forPhra Su along Khao San Road. Or hit a cocktail R m it Tha Phra en th Athit Then Pier Ro like Amorosa, with its picturemore Thai history? exit bar A and head ad W ra h isu t K of lit-up north across the ancientP ceremonial postcard views over the river as at Ro ad park, Sanam Luang, veer left and delve BANGLAMPHU Wat Arun.

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elcome to Rattanakosin Island: historical heartland of modern Bangkok, spiritual epicentre of the Kingdom. King Rama I located the capital here in 1782 because he thought it would be easier to defend than previous site Thonburi. Surrounded by man-made klongs (canals) and the Chao Phraya River, and immune to highrise developments, its charms include decaying old shophouses (as opposed to 50-storey monsters) and the highest density of sacred must-sees in Bangkok.

Whether you’re here for a few hours, a few days or more, every itinerary should include some time here.

First stop is Wat Arun (p.33), also known as the Temple of Dawn. Actually pre-dating the Rattanakosin era, it’s a cornerstone of Thailand’s history. To get there, ride the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin then, once at the river, jump on an express boat (ask someone to point out which boat is an express). As you face the river, you want to be going right, upriver. Get off at Tha Tien pier and catch one of the numerous boats that cross to the other side. Wat Arun, with its spire aglow, is easy to spot.

After admiring the sweeping panoramas from the top, cross the river back to Tha Tien pier. Then make your way to the city’s oldest temple complex, Wat Po (p.34). Here, see the immense reclining Buddha and have your muscles de-knotted at the

bangkok 101

Sightseeing

route 101

C

hinatown or Yaowarat, as it is known locally, is a sprawling, neon-lit enclave of tiny lanes, fabulous food, dramatic Chinese shrines and wiry old men sitting on plastic stools staring through thick-rimmed glasses.

The centre of Bangkok’s Chinese community actually used to be a couple of clicks west, but when King Rama V decided to build his palace on Rattanakosin Island the neighbourhood decamped en masse to its current location.

It’s a fantastic place just to wander around during the day, stuffing your face with weird fried things and trying to figure out just what the hell is being displayed in the Chinese pharmacy windows.

Yaowarat Rd itself, Chinatown’s main stretch, comes alive at night when fold-up-table restaurants spill out over the pavements, and a million and one gold shops, with their ridiculously ostentatious facades, flick on their neon switches. It’s quite a sight.

The best way to get there is by the underground. Take Exit 1 from Hua Lamphong MRT and look over to your right to take in Bangkok’s impressive main train station. This Renaissance-style edifice dates back to the early 20th century when King Rama V commissioned a bunch of Italian architects and engineers to give the capital a dash of European élan.

Head straight on from Exit 1 and 24

cHINATOWN cross over a couple of roads and the canal until you hit Mittraphap Thai-China Rd. Down here you’ll find one of the most imposing temples in Bangkok, Wat Traimit Witthayaram (p.34) and, 50m further on, the Odeon Circle Gate, an enormous structure that serves as the entrance to Chinatown proper. Turn right and check out the San Chao Poy Sien shrine, before crossing over onto Yaowarat Rd and exploring the Thian Fah Foundation complex.

sightseeing

Continue alongYaowarat and, when you’re suitably disgusted/impressed by all the restaurants advertising bird’s nest and shark’s fin delicacies on Yaowarat, duck down Yaowaphanit Rd. Then turn right onto Sampheng Lane (officially Wanit 1 Rd). This wholesale shopping treasure trove used to be full of opium dens and brothels, although there’s not much more illicit than hair clips and rubber sandals on offer now.

The lane’s not wide to start with, but fill it with food carts, dawdling shoppers and delivery boys on Vespas loaded with Hello Kitty schoolbags and you feel like a human pinball. Great fun!

Emerging like a new born calf onto Ratchawong Rd, you’ve got a choice to make. Head left towards the river to explore the old colonial-style warehouses and catch a river taxi from Ratchawong Pier; jump in a cab and mumble “Pak Khlong Talad” (p.104) to explore the 24-hour flower market; cross the road and continue the market mayhem as Chinatown segues into Little India with all its fabric shops and samosa stalls; or turn right and head up bangkok 101

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Soi Yaowar at 11 Rd

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to the other main Chinatown artery, Charoen Krung Rd. As you approach Charoen Krung you’ll cross back over Yaowarat Rd, passing the Grand China Princess hotel on your left. Turn left when you hit the main drag and walk about 500m to get to Nakhon Kasem, the old Thieves’ Market (p.104), or turn right and cross over to visit the wonderful Mangkorn Kamalawat temple complex. Opposite the temple, about 20 metres on, there’s a tiny, jam-packed lane, Soi 16, that connects with Yaowarat Rd. If you’re there at breakfast time, head on in for a seething, groaning wet-market with everything from huge sacks of tea and dried mushrooms to plastic tubs of writhing catfish.

If you’ve timed it well, when you come out of Soi 16 (Yaowarat Rd Soi 6) night will have fallen and the neonlit optical orgy that is Yaowarat Rd will be in full flow. Squeeze past all the chestnut vendors and satay grillers and slip into an appealing restaurant or find a table at a streetside eatery to give your feet a well-earned rest.

China Town Scala restaurant

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bangkok 101

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Grand China Princess Hotel

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1. Wat Traimit Witthayaram 2. San Chao Poy Sien shrine Auphairat 3. Wat Thian Fah Foundation 4. bamrung Canton House 5. Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat 6. Hua Seng Hong 7. T&K Seafood

Chao Phraya River See n San Chao Poy Sien Okay, it looks like a souvenir shop, but it’s actually a funky little shrine.

Pop upstairs to the weird plastic cave-room to see the statue of the Chinese god Kuan Yim. n Thian Fah Foundation This atmospheric complex incorporates a hospital and another, more elegant shrine dedicated to Kuan Yim. n Wat Mangkorn Kamalawat Fight your way through the vendors in the entranceway and head straight to the temple at the back for a truly memorable experience.

Eat n T&K Seafood 49-52 Soi Phaduang,Yaowarat Rd | 022234519 | 4:30pm-2am Watch the crowds roll by and dishes being hoisted down on fishing lines from the upstairs kitchen. n Canton House Chaloem Buri Intersection | 02-221sightseeing

3335 | 11am-10pm Cheap, tasty and air-conditioned, Canton House has a great selection of dim-sum from B15 a pop. n Hua Seng Hong 371-373 Yaowarat Rd | 02-222-0635 | 9am-midnight Look out for the bright yellow sign, then squeeze past the crabs, ducks and shark fins into an air-conditioned dining room for tasty, reasonably priced Chinese fare.

25

Sightseeing

route 101

Sukhumvit

L

ike Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner, Sukhumvit Road is a futuristic thriller – a flawed, frenetic, yet often compelling urban streetscape.

Towering hotels, condominiums and offices sprawl east across its skyline, while down below a global Who’s Who races anonymously among them. Along its main stretch cars and c oncrete assail the senses, while down its many flanking sois calmer, more serene atmospheres unfold.

Once a suburban backwater dominated by a stretch of rice fields, Sukhumvit has evolved into the residential destination of choice for aspirational Thais and the expats who work with them. As a result, it has developed its own village culture – marked by twee cafés, achingly hip boutiques and a veritable nation of fantastical day spas. In other words, when temple and museum-weariness set in, Sukhumvit could very well offer the perfect antidote. Only helping matters is the Skytrain, which swooshes like a slo-mo bullet above it.

Get a quick jump on the day and loosen up with a morning stroll 26

around the lake in Benjakitti Park.

Located adjacent to the Queen Sirikit National Convention Center, which hosts world class expos weekly (see calendar p.11), it is easily accessible via the centre’s MRT stop. Next head to the Siam Society for a quick shot of culture. On Asok Road (the unofficial “border” die-hard Sukhumvit dwellers rarely cross), it’s an organisation dedicated to the preservation of Thai heritage, art and culture through study trips, lectures

The Emporium

sightseeing

Benjakitti Park

and exhibitions. And out back is a stunning Northern Lanna teak house/ ethnological museum.

After Asok, it’s on the Skytrain and off to Phrom Phong station. Here you will find the cultural epicentre of upper Sukhumvit, that shrine to nouveau riche Thai consumerism, Emporium. While you can easily get your shopping fever quietened with the bevy of established, world-class designers and up-and-coming Thai labels here, an interesting alternative is the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) on the sixth floor which continually stages thoughtprovoking, and usually free, exhibitions.

Even better yet, TCDC is a short escalator ride away from the food floor, a United Nations of culinary possibilities. If your back is aching from scrutinising all those exhibits, why not take a stretch among the modern sculptures and trim greenery of adjoining Benjasiri Park?

Shopaholics can probe Thong Lo further, staking out the neighbourhood for designer clothing, jewellery, furniture and books. Or, should you be bangkok 101

ban

Long Table

Those looking to make a very Thai night of it (whisky sodas, a Thai live band) should head to one of the jumping joints along Thong Lor or Ekkamai. Sukhumvit Soi 11 – home to veterans like Bed Supperclub and Q Bar (p.84) – will satisfy your international clubbing needs. But for the best of Sukhumvit’s beau monde haunts its got to be Long Table (p.86): a cocktail at this 25th floor design bar, with its movers and shakers and electric panoramas, is not easily forgotten.

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2,Thong Lor (Sukhumvit Soi 55) | BTS Thong Lor | 081-824-8011 | 1pmmidnight People craving a drink and some laid-back conversation need look no further than antique store/ nostalgia café Shades of Retro. n Cheap Charlie’s | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Bangkok’s most bizarre bar (p.89). n Nest | Sukhumvit Soi 11 Found opposite Q Bar, this sleek yet cosy rooftop bar won’t ruffle your feathers. n Nang Len | Ekkamai Soi 5, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-711-6565 The name means “to sit around” inThai.

However you’d probably win the lottery before you find a seat here on weekends.

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Hop on over to J-Avenue, Bangkok’s little slice of neon Tokyo and watch as beautiful people and their even prettier cars roll in. Once dinnertime rolls around check out “Japan Town” in Thong Lor Soi 13, where a clutch of great Japanese restaurants like Uomasa lurk.

Finally, when it comes to Sukhumvit, the night time is definitely the right time. Drinking, dining, dancing, debauchery... it’s all here. For a go on a shisha pipe, Sukhumvit Soi 3 is Bangkok’s very own Little Arabia.

Soi 12

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EAT Coffee Bean by Dao | Casa Viva Apartment, Ekamai Soi 12, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | 02-713-2504~8 The cheesecakes at this local hi-so cake stop are out of this world. n Crêpes & Co | 18 Sukhumvit Soi 12 | 02-653-3990 Nestled in a quiet soi, in a palm-fronded garden, this French/Meditterean cafe serves an excellent all-day brunch. n Agalico | 20 Sukhumvit 51 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-662-5857 An all-white tea lounge situated in a lush garden.

Only open weekends.Take a ride down Sukhumvit Soi 51, and take the first right. n Uomasa | Nihomura, 87 Thong Lor Soi 13 | 02-392-6575 Found in the wooden Nihomura compound, Uomasa is particularly recommended for sashimi lovers. n

QUEEN SIRIKIT NATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE

sightseeing

PRAKANONG

SPA n Divana Divine Spa | 103 Thong

Lor Soi 17, Sukhumvit Soi 55 | 02712-8986 | www.divana-dvn.com n Rasayana Retreat | 57 Soi Prommitr, Sukhumvit Soi 39 | 02-6624803-5 | www.rasayanretreat.com n Hapa Spa | 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 3 | BTS Nana | 02-253-9860 | www.hapaspa.com n Bangkok Oasis Spa | 64 Soi Swaddee, Sukhumvit 31 | 02-2622122 | www.bangkokoasis.com 27

Sightseeing

route 101

Silom & Sathorn

T

heSathorn/Silomareapersonifies Bangkok’s split personality. The white collar, bustling crux of Bangkok’s business world by day, this whirlwind area houses a grab bag of cultural and religious sites. But when night falls this area hustles, gyrates, and rears a very different head. Home to a large chunk of Bangkok’s corporate world, this Silom and Sathorn spills over with yuppies and bigwigs during the day, kicking it up a gear after office hours, with a jiving scene of clubs, expat pubs, some very shady characters, and one oh-so-notorious little lane.

Set the alarm and beat the sun to the punch; there’s much to be done today. Take the MRT to the Sam Yan stop. Walk towards Silom and take a venomous venture into the Snake Farm (see p.37) and watch wranglers extract poison from serpents. If you dare you can even pet a cobra or kiss a python! If you’re still alive, continue on for a nice stroll in Lumphini Park, Bangkok’s largest public open area.

If it’s the weekend take a taxi into the past with former P.M. Kukrit’s Heritage House (see p.32).

By now you’re probably 28

famished, so go back down Convent Road, a tree-shaded soi lined with Irish pubs, Mexican, Japanese, Italian and various other farang-orientated eating establishments. After filling up follow the throngs of office workers into Soi Lalai Sup (“the soi that melts your assets”), squeezing through the chaos, hunting down bargains on clothes, gifts and other knick-knack paddywhacks.

Further down Silom on Thanon Pan, you will come across Wat Mahamariamman. Referred to by locals as Wat Kaek, it is the most famous Hindu temple in Bangkok and rituals are performed here daily at noon.

Right across the street is Kathmandu Gallery (see p.49) featuring great photo exhibits, and also Silom Village which is a nice spot to pick up some handicrafts.

Just before sunset hits, head up to the top floor of the Banyan Tree and ascend the aptly titled Moon Bar at Vertigo (see p.87). Two hundred metres above the pavement, this bar’s main attraction is the completely unobstructed 360° Bangkok panorama (other rooftop bars in the area include State Tower’s equally spectacular Sky sightseeing

Lumpini Park

Bar or, if raining, the indoors V9 at the Sofitel Silom). Do not stray too far over the railing as the only thing to break your fall here is the concrete sidewalk. Once you’ve soaked it all in, or if your knees are shaking, descend back to street level.

The night is still far too young.

Cab it to Lumpini National Boxing Stadium (see p.114) around the corner, which will guarantee adrenaline rushes, as young men kick and punch the hell out of each other. For something less violent, Suan Lum Night Bazaar (see p.104), a pricier but less sweaty version of Chatuchak is just seconds away.

Seafood restaurants abound here and the Joe Louis Puppet Theater (see p.56) is great for a cultural show.

There’s also a good beer garden.

Time to think about wrapping the day up. If you’re a jazz-lover a class act can always be found at Niu’s on Silom, as can fine Italian food and fivestar service. Or, if wine’s your thang, head to suave oenophile hangout Opus. For more rowdy (and raunchy) times, head back to Silom. There’s still shopping to be done here as many street vendors are just starting their bangkok 101

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DRINK n OPUS 64 Pan Road, Soi Wat Kaek, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02-637-9899 An urbane wine bar stocking 400, sightseeing

ni

1. Snake Farm 2. Lumphini Park 3. Soi Convent 4. Soi Lalai Sup 5. Wat Mahamariamman 6. Lumphini National Boxing Stadium 7. Suan Lum Night Bazaar 8. Patpong

n Eat

Me! 20 M. off Convent Rd. (Soi Pipat 2), Silom| BTS Sala Daeng | 02-238-0931 | www.eatmerestaurant.com | 3pm -1am Popular with expats, this trendy restaurant-cum-art-gallery serves tasty fusions. n Naj 42 Convent Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-2811 | www.najcuisine.com | 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-11:30pm The Thai food and white house setting is dignified and elegant, so put your new silk shirt on. n Spanish on 4 78-80 Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-9955 | www.tapascafebangkok. com | Mon-Fri 11am-1am, Sat-Sun 11am-2am Watch night-owls strutting Silom’s party soi while feasting on tasty tapas and delicious sangria. n Coyote on Covent Sivadon Building, 1/2 Convent Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-631-2325 Mouthwatering Mexicana: Burritos, enchiladas, 50-plus Margeritas.

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day selling trinkets, clothes and cheap knock-offs.

If you’re looking for something more hip, the bars and clubs in Silom Soi 4 will suffice. If you’re gay, look no further than same-sex central, Silom Soi 2. And if you’re feeling frisky and don’t mind being harassed by aggressive touts, immerse yourself in the decadent not-so-underworld that is Soi Patpong. Be careful around here and do not follow strangers offering you free shows. But don’t hold back, because whatever you choose to do in this part of town at this time, you’re most likely to wake up with no recollection of it.

bangkok 101

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Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng | 02632-7982 | 8pm-2am House music and cocktails all week long in this 3-storey Moroccan grotto. n Niu’s On Silom 661 Fl. 1-2 Silom Rd. btw Soi 17 & 19 | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-266-5333 | niusonsilom.com | 5pm – 1am | $$$ A classy jazz lounge offering worldclass musicians, wine, service, atmosphere and food.

SHOP n Café

Ubuntu Shop 9, Grand Terrace Condominium, Sala Daeng Rd | 02-632-0381 Buy everything from coffee to rustic art and t-shirts at this funky hybrid. n Jim Thompson 9 Surawong Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-8100 | www. jimthompson.com Sumptuous silk items at the American enigma’s flagship store.

Spa n Health

Land Spa 120 North Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 9am-11pm | www. healthlandspa.com n Ruen Nuad 42 Convent Road | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-632-2663 | 10am-9pm 29

Sightseeing

route 101 CentralWorld

Pathumwan

Siam and Pr atunam BACC

30

of Panthip Plaza. Chockful of gadgets and some highly suspicious software, Panthip is worth visiting but it is truly a place where the ‘buyer beware’ motto should be kept in mind.

Double back on yourself once more and head back to the junction.

Turn south to where you previously crossed the canal. It is time to give your feet a rest and take a boat ride on Klong Saen Saeb. Get on a boat heading west and get off at Jim Thompson’s House (see p.32).

Thailand’s second most popular tourist destination is a wonderful, meditative place to wander around and perhaps ri R

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he Pratunam and Siam Square districts are famed as a shopper’s paradise. From the chaos of the shop-4-all places like the Mahboonkrong Center (MBK) and the Pratunam clothes market to the elegance of Siam Paragon Mall and Central Chidlom shopping centres, the range of goods is staggering. Hidden among these mammoth malls and markets are some very Thai activities that should not be missed.

Start the day off with a visit to a popular spot if you wish to pray for good fortune from the four-faced Hindu God Brahma. On the corner of the junction with Ploenchit Road and Ratchadamri, the Erawan Shrine is renowned for bringing good luck.

Then cross over Ploenchit Road and head north up Ratchadamri Road. Just after you cross the canal (khlong) is another major junction with Phetchaburi Road. On the other side of this road is the legendary Pratunam clothes market (see p. 105), reputedly the largest market of its kind in Thailand.

Then head back south to Phetchaburi Road and turn right. After a few minutes’ walk, on the other side of the road is the computer geek paradise

indulge at the café. Take a right out of here and turn left at the end of the soi.

Walking toward Siam Square and on the left corner of the junction, between Rama I and Phayathai Road, you can’t miss the crisp, concrete curves of the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BACC). Called the “Guggenheim meets a shopping mall” by our very own art critic, this is Bangkok’s new modern art scene central.

After all this walking, a sit-down is probably in order. CentralWorld, Asia’s largest “lifestyle shopping complex”, houses scores of great restaurants and a fantastic cinema complex, where you can treat yourself to a ‘luxury cinema’ screening (see p.58). Top off your day with a yin-yang cocktail at Centara Grand hotel’s ultra-chic rooftop bar, Red Sky (p.86). You don’t even need to leave the bracing confines of the CentralWorld complex to get there.

Just take an escalator to level one, catch a lift to the hotel’s lobby, and from there make like a rocket to the 55th floor.

Lumphini Park

Sightseeing

historic buildings JIM THOMPSON’S HOUSE (map C3, #16) 6 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | BTS National Stadium| 02-2167368 | www.jimthompsonhouse.com | daily 9am-5pm | B100 (B50 students) One of the things to do in Bangkok is visit the home of Jim Thompson, the American businessman largely responsible for the global popularity of hand-woven Thai silk. Found in a sun-dappled tropical garden, beside a pungent canal, this complex of six traditional teak houses from around the country is testament to his commitment to preserving regional art and culture. Each brims with art and antiques rescued from around Asia: everything from limestone Buddha torsos to a cat-shaped porcelain bedpan. Free tour guides discuss these exquisite treasures and the much-mythologised life of the man himself. There’s also a shop selling his trademark designs, an art gallery and a café.

บ้านไทย จิมทอมป์สัน ซ.เกษมสันต์ 2 ตรงข้ามสนามกีฬาแห่งชาติ

M.R. KUKRIT’S HOUSE (map C4,#20) 19 Soi Phra Pinit, Sathorn Rd | BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-2868185 | Sat, Sun & Holidays 10am – 5pm, weekdays by appt. only | B50 (B20 kids) Kukrit Pramoj was one of Thailand’s most-loved statesmen of the 20th century. A natural all-rounder, he was a poet, a writer and even served as prime minister in the 1970s. His peaceful abode with its lovely gardens, now on show to the public and off the tourist trail is a terrific example of traditional Thai architecture. บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ ซ.พระพินิจ สาทรใต้​้

VIMANMEK MANSION (map B2,#1) 139/2 Ratchawithi Rd, Dusit | 02-281-1569 | daily 9am-4pm | B100 The world’s largest teakwood building was originally built on the island of Koh Si Chang, in 1868, and then moved, piece by piece, to Bangkok for use by King Rama V. Its 81 rooms, spread over three floors, overlook a beautiful garden. Inside, many of his acquisitions from international trips are on display, including possibly the first bathtub in the kingdom, antique photographs and fine porcelain. Regular tours in English are held throughout the day. พระทีน ่ ง่ั วิมานเมฆ ถ.ราชวิถี เขตดุสติ WANG SUAN PAKKARD (map C3, #15) Si Ayutthaya Rd, Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-245-4934 | www. suanpakkad.com | 9am – 4pm | B100 A former market garden that was converted into a residence and garden

by Princess Chumbot. Consisting of five reconstructed Thai wooden houses, Wang Suan Pakkard pays testament to her dedication to collecting Thai artefacts and antiques. Of note are the examples of Buddhist and Hindu art, the ceramics from old Ban Chiang and the delightful lacquer pavilion depicting scenes from the Ramayana. วังสวนผักกาด ถ.ศรีอยุธยา ราชเทวี ANANTA SAMAKHOM PALACE Throne Hall (map B2, #2) Uthong Nai Rd, Dusit, opp Dusit Zoo | 8:30am-4pm | B50 This stately parlimentary palace was built during the reign of RamaV and completed

by Rama VI. Cast in white Carrara marble, it is still used for the ceremonial opening of the first parliamentary session. Influenced

by Renaissance architecture, the interior is decorated with detailed frescoes, by Italian Galileo Chini, of royal ceremonies and festivities. พระทีน ่ ง่ั อนันตสมาคม ถ.อูท่ องใน ดุสติ

Jim Thompson:The Man behind the Mystery Check this out for a CV: a Princeton graduate and former US spook turns Bangkok socialite, silk revivalist and Asiaphile antiques collector before disappearing mysteriously in Malaysia’s Cameron Highlands in 1967. Jim Thompson’s strangerthan-fiction life story makes for a twisting, ultimately tragic tale.This, along with the sheen of his famous silks, his entrepreneurial skills and impeccable taste, has made him Thailand’s most famous farang (westerner).Today he’s a brand gone global.You can visit his stunning home (see above), buy his trademark fabrics in Argentina or Australia, and read a slew of gossipy biographies peddling myths that only seal the legend. But it’s perhaps at Ban Krua, the Muslim silk-weaving community found near his home, where his legacy is most lasting. Here the cottage industry he resuscitated continues to thrive – a testimony both to the skill of the weavers who live there, and the visionary American who believed in them.

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sightseeing

bangkok 101

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temples majesty of the temple, the walls of Wat Phra Kaew’s cloisters feature examples of Thai mural art documenting the life and travels of the Buddha and scenes from the Ramakien, the Thai version of the Ramayana epic. Remember to dress respectfully as a strict no shorts or sleeveless shirts policy is enforced.

The Grand Palace & Wat Phra Kaew

THE GRAND PALACE & WAT PHRA KAEW (map A3, #10) Na Phra Lan Rd, near Sanam Luang | 02-222-0094 | daily 8:30am-4pm | B350 includes entry to Vimanmek Mansion | dress respectfully The granddaddy of all Thai sights. Don’t let the touts who mill around outside put you off a visit to this, the Kingdom’s most beloved keepsake – a fantastical 218,400m² royal complex that comes enclosed by quaintly crenulated whitewalls, and at night sparkles like the jewel in some Oriental fairytale.

Building began in 1782, the year Bangkok was founded, and every monarch subsequent to King Rama I has expanded or enhanced it.

Today, despite being able to visit many stunning sights on its grounds, much of it remains off-limits. Though King Bhumibol now holds court at Chitralada Palace, in the northern district of Dusit, the Grand Palace is still used for major ceremonies or royal functions.

The Chakri Mahaprasat Hall – colloquially known as the “Westerner in a Thai hat” due to its blend of Thai and European architecture – is worth

seeing, and there are some state rooms and halls open to visitors.These include the Amarin Vinitchai Throne Hall, where the King still delivers his birthday speech, and a small weapons museum.

The highlight is the Emerald Buddha – Thailand’s most sacred Buddhist relic – and the ornate temple purpose-built to house it, Wat Phra Kaew, where hundreds pay their respects each day. Completed two years after the capital was moved from Thonburi to Rattanakosin in 1784, this forms the north-eastern corner of the complex. The Emerald Buddha was discovered in 1434, when lightning is said to have struck a chedi in Chiang Rai in the north of Thailand. It was originally covered in stucco which peeled off over time to reveal the brilliant green stone beneath. After being moved around Northern Thailand by a succession of Thai kings and then taken by the Lao to Vientiane, Rama I retook the statue in 1779 and placed it at the centre of his new capital.

Apart from the amazing architecture, gilded statues and the

WAT ARUN (map A3, #12) Temple of Dawn | Arun Amarin Rd | 02- 465-5640 | www.watarun.org | 8am- 5pm | B20 Across the river from Wat Po is Wat Arun, or the Temple of the Dawn, one of the city’s most important and beguiling religious sites. Before being moved to Wat Phra Kaew, the Emerald Buddha was temporarily housed here. The five-towered structure is covered almost entirely in pieces of colourful porcelain and designed as a representation of Mount Mehru, the Khmer home of the gods. The temple is believed to have been named by Rama I on his first sunrise visit, but in contrast with its name, it is best visited at dusk when the setting sun forms a stunning backdrop.

วัดอรุณราชวราราม ถ.อรุณอัมรินทร์ ผั่งตะวันตกของแม่น้ำเจ้าพระยา

Wat Arun

Beware!

Bangkok has its share of brilliantly choreographed and well-practised street scams, often active in the area around the Grand Palace. Typically these involve being “befriended” by a seemingly straight-up local, and with true sophistication they often result in travellers not reaching their intended destination, but instead visiting an alternative temple and eventually a jewellery outlet. The bottom line is, if anyone, no matter how official they may appear (and this includes uniformed guards!), tells you that the palace or Wat Pho, for example, is closed, you are likely being set up. Our advice: politely decline any such offers and proceed directly to the actual ticket booth (presuming, of course, that you have arrived during official opening hours).

bangkok 101

sightseeing

33

Sightseeing

The Giant Swing

temples WAT SAKET (map B3, #7) Chakkraphatdiphong Rd, Sattruphai | 02-233-4561 | 7:30am-5:30pm | B10 Raised on a small hillock, and thus referred to as the Golden Mount, this wat offers great views of Chinatown to the south and the Old City to the north. The hill is all that is left of the fortifications for a large chedi that Rama III planned to construct on the site that gave way under the weight. Rama V built a smaller chedi on top, which was subsequently expanded to house a Buddhist relic inside. The temple is worth a visit for the view if you are prepared to hike up the 318 steps.

วัดสระเกศ ถ.จักรพรรดิพงษ์

WAT MAHATHAT (map A3) Tha Prachan, Sanam Luang, Mahratch Rd | 02-221-5999 | 9am-5pm| free An amulet market is situated near this 18th-century centre of the Mahanikai monastic sect and an important university of Buddhist teaching. On weekends, market stalls are set up on the grounds to complement the daily vendors of traditional medicines and herbal potions.

Wat Mahathat is one temple in Bangkok where courses on Buddhism are given in English.

วัดมหาธาตุ ท่าพระจันทร์ สนามหลวง

WAT SUTHAT and THE GIANT SWING (map A-B3, #8) Bamrung Muang Rd, Phra Nakhorn, | 02-2229632 | 9am-5pm | B20 Surrounded by perhaps the greatest concentration of Buddhist supply shops in Bangkok, Wat Suthat is one of the most important Buddhist centres in the kingdom and home to some excellent examples of bronze sculpture, a blend of Thai and Chinese-style mural art 34

and a 14th-century Sukhothai period statue. The wat used to be the site for annual harvest ceremonies where brave men would swing up to great heights to catch a bag of gold coins in their teeth. However, the practice proved a bit too dangerous and was banned in the 1930s. Today the huge red structure, named the Giant Swing, still stands in front of the temple.

วัดสุทัศน์ ถ.บำรุงเมือง พระนคร ตรงข้ามเสาชิงช้า

WAT BOWONIWET VIHARA (map A3) Phra Sumen Rd, Banglamphu | 02-281-2831-3 | all day long | free Home to the respected Maha Makut Buddhist University, this temple is par ticularly important to the monarchs of the Chakri Dynasty as Rama VI, Rama VII and the present king were all ordained as monks here.

วัดบวรนิเวศวิหาร ถ.พระสุเมรุ

WAT BENCHAMA BOPHIT (map B2, #3) 69 Rama V Rd, Dusit | 02-6287947 | 8am-6pm | B20 This white Italian Carrara marble wat dates from the 19th century. Alms are brought here by generous Buddhist families in the early mornings. วัดเบญจมบพิตร ถ.พระราม 5 WAT RATCHANATDA (map B3) Mahachai Rd, Phra Nakhorn | 02-2248807 | 9am-5pm | free This temple, a centre for buying amulets, features the bizarre multitiered Loh Prasat. Collecting amulets is popular in Thailand and many believe these miniature images of Buddha sightseeing

possess spiritual powers, protecting the wearer and bringing good fortune.

วัดราชนัดดา ถ.มหาชัย พระนคร

WAT TRAIMIT (map B3, #13) 661 Hua Lamphong, Charoen Krung Rd | 02-623-1226 | 8am-5pm | B20 Housed safely in this unassuming Chinatown temple is the world’s largest solid gold Buddha.

Weighing over five tonnes and standing over three metres high, its worth has been estimated at over US$10 million.

วัดไตรมิตร หัวลำโพง (เยาวราช)

WAT PO (map A3, #11) Reclining Buddha | Chetuphon/Thai Wang Rd | 02-226-0369 | www.watpho.com | 8am-noon, 1-5pm | B50 The Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the oldest and largest wat in Bangkok. Originating in the 16th century, it houses the largest reclining Buddha statue in Thailand as well as the greatest number of Buddha images. Wat Po is also the centre for traditional Thai medicine and a learning centre for Thai massage, where you can both enjoy and learn this ancient healing art. The 45m-long statue depicts the Buddha entering nirvana and is impressive both for its size and the mother-of-pearl detail on the soles of the feet, a blueprint revealing the 108 auspicious signs of a genuine Buddha.

วัดโพธิ์ ถ.เชตุพน

bangkok 101

ban

101

Kids in the city

Negotiating Bangkok with kids needn’t be the nightmare many parents presume. The single biggest plus point is that Thais absolutely adore children, meaning there are always people around ready to help out. Skytrain guards will drop what they’re doing to help you haul that stroller down the stairs and waitresses will gladly whisk junior off for a tour of the kitchens while you enjoy a coffee.

Most of the big shopping malls (see p.102) have play areas set aside for kids, with two of the best being Kiddy Land, which has slides, a ball pit and a balloon room on the 6th floor of CentralWorld; Jamboree on the 3rd floor of Emporium; and the huge indoor playground Funarium (see below). Plus, of course, most of the shopping malls have cinemas and enough ice-cream stores to sate a homesick Eskimo.

There are also a fair few attractions that appeal to wee ones.The city’s parks (see p.37) offer a chance to let off steam, especially Rot Fai Park near Chatuchak Weekend Market (p.104), where you can rent bicycles; and Dusit Zoo (p.37) is a sprawling, chaotic afternoon’s worth of fun. Although expensive, Siam Ocean World (p.37) is a great way to entertain the kids while you shop at Paragon department store.

On a more scholarly note, there’s a cracking museum aimed at inquisitive young minds. The Children’s Discovery Museum has a science and nature theme and is handily located near to Chatuchak. And if you’re sticking around town for a while, Bangkok Dolphins (www.bangkokdolphins.com) offer swimming classes from three months old.

The Children’s Discovery Museum (map C1) Kamphaeng Petch 4 Rd, Chatuchak | 02-6157333 | www.bkkchildren museum.com | Tue-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am- 6pm | B150 Near the Chatuchak weekend market, this interactive museum aimed at younger guests covers science, nature and the environment. It also hosts regular courses and activity camps. พิพิธภัณฑ์เด็กกรุงเทพมหานคร

Funarium (map D4) 111/1 Sukhumvit 26 | 02-6656555 | www.funarium.co.th | 8:30am-8:30pm | kids: B180/300; adults B90 Basically 2,000m2 of slides, ball pits, trampolines, obstacle courses, cycling tracks and basketball courts, with a decent café and a small branch of Mothercare.

ฟันเอเรียม สุขุมวิท 26

สวนสมเด็จพระนางเจ้าสิริกิติ์ ตรงข้ามสวนจตุจักร

SHRINES

Apart from the many Buddhist temples across the city, there are lots of small shrines where devotees pay their respects to Hindu deities, Animist spirits and even errant spooks. Many of the most famous – and visited – are centred around Ratchaprasong, the mall-cluttered central district. Here it’s not unusual to see a Thai wai a God while on their way to the Gucci store.

ERAWAN SHRINE (map C3, #17) Ratchadamri Rd, near Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-252-8754 | 6:30am10:30pm | BTS Chit Lom Don’t expect serenity here.This is one of Bangkok’s busiest intersections: the crowded shrine to the Hindu creation god Brahma and his elephant Erawan is filled with worshippers lighting incense, buying lottery tickets and watching the traditional dancing group, which bangkok 101

performs for a nominal fee. Fancy making an offering? Buy a set from the surrounding stalls, and starting with your back to the main entrance walk around it clockwise, offering 3 incense sticks, a candle, garland and a piece of gold leaf to each of the four faces.

พระพรหมเอราวัณ ถ.ราชดำริ

Ganesha Shrine

TRIMURTI SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd If your love life is ailing then this shrine is for you: at 9.30pm each Thursday it’s rumoured that Lord Trimurti descends from the heavens to answer prayers of the heart. To maximise your chances of meeting your dream beau you should offer nine-red incense sticks, red candles, red roses and fruit.

Alternatively, you could try saying hello to the person next to you.

GANESHA SHRINE (map C3) Outside Centralworld and Isetan Department Store, Ratchadamri Rd Perhaps the most recognisable Hindu deity, a silent prayer in front of this pot-bellied gold elephant – the son of Shiva and Parvati – is said to help get the creative juices flowing, as well as protect you from harm. Aside from marigold garlands, bring bananas, ripe mango or sticky rice-flour Thai desserts – Ganesha has an eternal appetite.

พระตรีมูรติ หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์ sightseeing

พระพิฆเนศวร หน้าห้างอิเซตัน ศูนย์การค้าเซนทรัลเวิลด์

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Sightseeing

museums THE NATIONAL MUSEUM (map A3) 5 Chao Fa Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241333 | www.thailandmuseum. com | Wed-Sun 9am-4pm | B40 Previously a palace during the reign of Rama V, the National Museum features extensive displays of Thai artefacts from the main historical periods, encompassing the Lanna, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai kingdoms up to the present day. Thai culture is well documented in sections on dance, music and drama.

The first example of Thai literature and the Thai alphabet, inscribed by King Ramkhamhaeng on a black stone during the Sukhothai period, is also on display. Free English tours are given on Wednesdays (about Buddhism) and Thursdays (on art/culture) and start at 9:30am. Photography is not allowed inside the museum galleries.

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์สถานแห่งชาติ ถ.เจ้าฟ้า ใกล้ทอ้ งสนามหลวง

ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM (map A3) 80/1 Rim Khlong Bangkok Noi, Arun Amarin Rd,Thonburi | 02-424-0004 | 9am-5pm | B30 (photo B100, video B200) This collection of royal barges, some up to 50 metres long, is housed on the Thonburi side of the river in a series of elaborate sheds near Pinklao Bridge.The barges are best seen in action during rare ceremonial processions on the Chao Phraya, when the crews number up to 64 and include rowers, umbrella holders, navigators and musicians. Beautiful and ornate, these magnificent long craft were completely renovated and restored to their former glory by the present King, who also commissioned the newest boat for his golden jubilee in 1996.

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พิพิธภัณฑ์เรือพระราชพิธี ถ.อรุณอมรินทร์

Oddball Museums

It’s not all Buddhist art you know. Several museums in and around Bangkok delve into Thailand’s wacky and idiosyncratic. Definitely the most macabre, the Si Quey Forensics Museum revels in pickled body parts and cadavers of serial killers. A close second, the Corrections Museum uses lifelike models to recreate the rough justice meted out to crims in the not so old days (you’ll think twice about that sly toke after a trip here). Also in central Bangkok, the Museum of Counterfeit Goods displays 1,500 of Thailand’s best forgeries. As long as you call ahead (and don’t use it as a means to spot that fake handbag on Patpong the next day), you’re welcome. On the outskirts, the weekends only House of Museums is a two-storey sprawl of retro curiosities. Finally, if you’re a cinephile interested in Thailand’s New Wave, learn about the heritage that inspired your Pen-Eks and Apichatpongs at the Thai Film Museum in Nakhom Pathom.

By appointment on weekdays, here you walk among recreated film sets, old 16mm cameras and waxwork figures of Thai cine heroes.

Si Quey Forensics Museum (Official Name ‘Siriraj Medical Museum’) 2 Prannok road, Bangkoknoi | www.si.mahidol.ac.th | 02- 419-7000 ext 6363 | Mon-Sat 9am – 4pm | B40

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์การแพทย์ศริ ริ าช ถ.พรานนก

Corrections Museum 436 Bangkok Remand Prison, Mahachai Rd., Samranrat, Phra Nakhon | Mon-Fri 9am - 4pm | 02-226-1704 | free

พิพธิ ภัณฑ์ราชทัณฑ์ เรือนจำเก่า ใกล้กบั สวนรมณีนาถ

Museum of Counterfeit Goods Supalai Grand Tower Building 26F, Rama III Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-653-5555 | www.tillekeandgibbins.com | by appointment only

อาคารศุภาลัยแกรนด์ทาวเวอร์ ถ.พระราม 3

House of Museums 170/17 Moo 17 Soi Klong Po 2, Salathammasop Rd., Taweewattana | 089-666-2008 | http://houseofmuseums.siam.edu | Sat-Sun 10am – 5pm | B30

บ้านพิพธิ ภัณฑ์ ซ.คลองโพ 2 ศาลาธรรมสพน์

Thai Film Museum 94 Moo 3 Bhuddhamonton Sai 5, Salaya, Nakorn Pathom| www.nfat.org | 02-482- 2013-15 | weekday: appointment only, weekend tours: 10am, noon, 3pm | free

หอภาพยนตร์แห่งชาติ 94 หมู่ 3 ถ.พุทธมณฑลสาย 5

MUSEUM OF SIAM (map A3) 4 Samachai Rd., Pra Nakorn | 02225-2777 | www.ndmi.or.th | Tue-Sun 10am-6pm | B300 Just a few blocks from the Grand Palace, the Children’s museum is located inside the historic Ministry of Commerce building. Inside the three storey, E-shaped Renaissance style building, built in 1921, is a series of interactive, animated, theme park-like sightseeing

exhibitions exploring the history of the Siamese people. For adult viewers making sense of each room might be confusing: topics unexpectedly jump from ethnicity to religion to ancient folklore. Kids though will find it an edutaining experience, and love playing with the vibrant touch screens.

สถาบันพิพิธภัณฑ์การเรียนรู้ แห่งชาติ ถ.สนามไชย

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the great outdoors

Siam Ocean World

FLORA LUMPINI PARK (map C4) Entrances on Rama IV Rd, Sarasin Rd, Witthayu Rd and Ratchadamri Rd | free Want shades of green instead of drab slabs of grey? For most in the city Lumpini Park, the inner city’s largest green lung, is the solution. Busy as soon as the sun rises and again around sunset, Bangkokians of every ilk take advantage of the relative cool and quiet to practice Tai Chi, do aerobics, hold hands or jog around the picturesque lakes. Other activities include taking a pedal boat out onto the water for a quick spin. The most reliable entrance is the one near Silom at the corner of Rama IV Road and Ratchadamri Road, at the front of which a statue of King Rama VI stands sentinel. สวนลุมพินี เข้าได้ทาง ถ.พระราม 4

ถ.สารสิน ถ.วิทยุและ ถ.ราชดำริ

RAMA IX ROYAL PARK (off map) Sukhumvit 103 Rd, behind Seri Center, Pravet 02-328-1972, 02-328-1395 | 5:30am-7pm | B10 This 200-acre park features a small museum dedicated to the king, set amongst pleasant botanical gardens with lots of soothing water features. สวนหลวง ร.9 ถ.สุขุมวิท 103

(หลังเสรี เซ็นเตอร์) ประเวศ

bangkok 101

CHATUCHAK and QUEEN SIRIKIT PARKS (map C-D1) 820 Phahonyothin Rd, Ladyao Sub-district, Chatuchak | 02-2724358~9 | 5am-6:30pm | free These two parks situated not far from the mayhem of the weekend market offer some respite. Chatuchak Park hosts some art exhibits and a collection of old railway engines and ancient automobiles. Nearby, Queen Sirikit Park has a pretty botanical garden with lotus ponds.

สวนจตุจกั รและ สวนสมเด็จ พระนางเจ้า สิรกิ ติ ์ิ 820 ถ. พหลโยธิน จตุจกั ร

FAUNA DUSIT ZOO (map B2) 71 Rama V Rd, opp. Chitralada Palace, Dusit | 02-281-2000 | 8am-6pm | adults B100, kids B50 The city’s main zoo, situated to the north of Rattanakosin, is home to a large selection of mammals, reptiles and other animals. Spread over a large park, there’s also a lake to paddle around. สวนสัตว์ดุสิต 71 ถ.พระราม 5 QUEEN SAOVABHA MEMORIAL INSTITUTE (Snake Farm) (map C4, #18) 1871 Rama IV Rd, Thai Red Cross, Henri Dunant | 02-252-0161~4 ext.120 | Mon-Fri sightseeing

8:30am-4pm, Sat-Sun 9:30am – noon (Shows at 11am & 2:30pm) | B200 A centre for developing antidotes to poisonous snake bites, this research facility is also open to the public.

The idea behind this is to educate visitors about the dangers of poisonous snakes in Thailand and what to do with the victim of a snake bite.

There’s an informative slide show followed by a display of live venom extraction from some of the deadliest serpents in the kingdom. สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู)

ถ.พระราม 4 สภากาชาดไทย

Siam Ocean World (map C3) B1F Siam Paragon, 991 Rama I Rd | 02-687-2001 | www.siamoceanworld. com | 10am-7pm | B650/850 Such a pity that this tourist attraction – reputed to be the largest aquarium in Southeast Asia – operates a dual pricing policy. If you’reThai you pay B350; if you’re not you pay B850. This irritating iniquity aside, there’s certainly fun to be had inside, with 8m-high tanks, glass-tunnel walk-throughs and shark-feeding shows – although a ride on a glass-bottom boat to see sharks and rays costs extra and is wholly unremarkable. Reckon on an hour to get round the whole thing. สยามพารากอน ถ.พระราม 1 37

Sightseeing

in the neighbourhood Max Crosbie-Jones Bangkok isn’t the only jungle we’re big fans of…. a five-minute boat hop across from the city, in what is technically Samut Prakarn province, sits one of a different kind entirely: an almost island of undeveloped land that sits in a loopy kink in the Chao Phraya River and goes by the name of Bang Kachao.

People who head to the rooftop of one of Bangkok’s snazzy hi-rise hotels for evening cocktails, often spot this mysterious, jungle-clad peninsula that begins where the city’s spiky buildings and auburn river ends. And ask “what’s that?” Hoping on a bicycle, we discovered, is the way to find out.

Though it can be done independently, tour company Spice Roads does all the groundwork for you: they pick you up at an agreed meeting place, and gift you with a sturdy 21gear mountain bike and helmet. They also have the Bang Kachao ‘knowledge’, without which you would probably race off into its maze of pedestrian paths never to be seen again.

After being dropped off with a tour guide and bike at Bangkok’s Klong Toey pier, you then take a 5-minute long-tail boat ride across the Chao Phraya, Bangkok’s river industry and lofty skyscrapers getting smaller with

38

BANG KACHAO: IT’S A JUNGLE OUT THERE…

each splutter of the outboard motor.

From hereon in, things take a rustic turn, as you peddle into a facsimile of what Bangkok must have once looked like. Ramshackle huts and wooden homes, locals welding things and mincing around in flip flops, wildflowers and twisting jungle in every direction. It’s so very wild, laidback and – listen – quiet.

The roughly four hour trip involves cycling along wide paved roads with the odd bit of traffic, over small bridges, and – most challengingly – down raised, narrow, often zigzagging concrete paths built along small canals and hemmed in by orchards or dense rainforest.

Its flat easy peddling all the way, but you still need to keep your wits about you. Losing your concentration or failing to dodge the odd hazard (motorcyclist, barking dog, kid who wants a highfive) or pull off a sharp 90 degree turn means a metre or so plunge into the boggy unknown. And a lot of chortles from your Lance Armstrong-lookalike companions.

You stop off at various charming spots: Talad Nam Baan Nam Phung, a weekend only floating market selling sightseeing

handicrafts, local snacks like kanom jeen and noodles, fresh herbs; Baan Nam Phung Nork, a gorgeously dilapidated 250-year-old temple (one of around 20); and Sri Nakhon Keun Kan, a lush public park with a huge fish pond.

It’s a wonderful day out; a work-out for the legs, a respite for the lungs, a tonic for the harried city-soul. Moreover, a trip here is essential for anyone who’s ever wondered what Bangkok looked like 200 years ago, before the canals where filled in, the jungle cleared, and the bulldozers and cranes inched their way in.

SpiceRoads Bang Krachao Cycling Tour 02-712-5305, 089-895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com | B1,000 (including pick up from Face restaurant on Sukhumvit Soi 38, mountain bike, helmet and water) Getting There If you want to go it alone, take the ferry from Wat Klong Toey Nork pier to Bang Krachao pier (Fare: B3)

ท่าเรือวัดคลองเตยนอก

bangkok 101

bangkok 101

sightseeing

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Sightseeing

featured daytrip

Saraburi

This central province is in full bloom during the month of December.

The unofficial gateway to Thailand’s northeast, Saraburi is home to many historically significant sites, waterfalls, and some very sunny fields.

Located just 108km out of Bangkok, Saraburi is really simple to reach (see Getting There). And the short distance means you’ll have plenty of time to sightsee. Your first stop should be Wat Phra Putthabhat. Located 20km out of town, towards Lopburi, it is one of the region’s most beautiful and important temples due to what lies inside. In the 17th century, during the reign of King Songtham of Ayutthaya, a large puddle of water was discovered that resembled the shape of a footprint. It was declared the footprint of Buddha and this temple was constructed around it. The enormous footprint, at 1.5m long is the most popular pilgrimage site in central Thailand.

Saraburi is also home to many caves which have formed over centuries.

Tham Phra Pothisat is quite popular not only because of its beautiful stalactite formations but also due to the bas-relief Buddha image carved onto cavern’s walls.

For food, visit the province’s largest district of Muak Lek,38km east of Saraburi Muang. The market is very popular and great for picking up local items like curry puffs, salted or sweetened beef, and other fresh foods. Near the market is the Muak Lek Arboretum, a perfect spot to kick back and laze around in the shade. Also nearby is Namtok Chet Sao Noi, a long winding stream of waterfalls that stretches for 9km. The falls have seven levels and also some areas where visitors can rent inner tubes and jump in for a refreshing dip.

During this time of year, however, Saraburi’s main attraction is out in the fields. Even those just passing through the province will find it hard not to stop 40

off and roam through the fields of bright sunflowers now in full-bloom. Spanning 72km2, these stunning flowers can be found along the Phattana Nikhom – Wang Muang Route and come framed by the area’s rolling, limestone hills.

They’re a sight not to be missed, so make sure your camera is charged when you arrive.

Fancy sleeping over, in one of Saraburi’s resorts? Two of the most distinctive are the Petcharat Resort and Ndol Villas, a complex of three traditional teak villas set alongside a meandering stream.

Wat Phra Putthabhat

Getting There From the Northeastern Bus Terminal (Mo Chit 2), buses leave every 20 mins 5am-7pm, B70.

STAY n Ndol Villas www.ndolvillas.com n Petcharat Resort www.petcharatresort.com sightseeing

bangkok 101

Sightseeing Lop Buri

Uthai Thani

day tripping

Chai Nat Nakhon Ratchasima

Ang Thong Saraburi

Suphan Buri

It’s easy getting around in Thailand, and there are plenty of worthwhile excursions within easy reach of Bangkok; some one-day affairs, others overnight. Organise a trip yourself or book through your concierge or a local travel agent.

AYUTTHAYA The capital of Siam from the 14th to 18th century, Ayutthaya was one of the richest cities in the East, until it was plundered by the Burmese in 1767 and its ruins left to nature. Today a Unesco World Heritage Site, its remnants – all Khmer-esque stupas, crumbling bricks and Buddha faces entwined in tree roots – make a wonderful daytrip. The 85km journey is best done by river. The major hotels organise trips (usually to Ayutthaya by coach and then back by boat), while independent tours run from River City.

Many combine the trip with a visit to the Bang Pa-in Summer Palace.A former royal garden retreat, this presents a mélange of different architectural schools, mostly reflecting King Rama V’s love for all things European. Once at Ayutthaya, hop on a bike and scoot round highlights like Wat Phra Si Sanphet, Wat Mongkhon Bophit and Wat Ratburana at your own pace. .

LOPBURI Lopburi’s illustrious ruins date back over 1,000 years and can done on foot. During the Dvaravati period (6th-11th centuries) the city was known as Lavo until the Khmers took over the region during Angkor’s 10th century heyday. The Thais took control during the powerful Sukhothai and Ayutthaya periods. And in the 1600s, King Narai made the city the second capital and fortified it against the Dutch navy 42

Ayutthaya

Kanchanaburi

Nakhon Pathom

Koh Kred

Pathumthani

Nakhon Nayok

Sa Kaeo

Nonthaburi Bangkok

Ratchaburi

Samut Sakhon Samut Songkhram

Samut Prakan

Chachoengsao

Chon Buri

Phetchaburi

threatening Ayutthaya. The remnants of the palace he built now serve as a public museum. The city is also littered with crumbling wats (temples) blending Khmer and Thai styles. Watch your belongings: the most famous – threeprang shrine Phra Prang Sam Yot (a prang is a spire-like vault) – is home to some mischievous macaque monkeys.

monuments and buildings. Built by the same benefactor, the smaller Erawan Museum features a towering threeheaded elephant sculpture. Inside are antiques and a stucco chapel, but most Thais come for the fantastical gardens and to pray for good luck at the esteemed shrine.-

NAKHON PATHOM The star attraction in this ancient Thai town is the 120m high chedi (or stupa), the tallest in the Kingdom, which was erected on the site of a 6th-century version.

Situated around 55km west of Bangkok, the town is widely thought to be the oldest in Thailand, but apart from the chedi there are few clues as to its history.The other big draw is the Rose Garden, a picturesque 70-acre park featuring botanical gardens and mock-Thai village cultural shows.

KANCHANABURI Made famous by the film The Bridge on the River Kwai, Kanchanaburi town is a popular weekend getaway, offering great scenery and a host of river-based activities. Most foreigners are attracted by the area’s history – namely the “Thai Burma Death Railway,” built

by POWs under Japanese occupation during World War II. Riding the railway is possible with three daily trips from Kanchanaburi to Nam Tok. The lush countryside around Kanchanaburi is home to many of the country’s most impressive waterfalls, with nearby Erawan National Park offering great trekking.

SAMUT PRAKAN Just down the road – 29km away – Samut Prakan has three big draws.The Crocodile Farm offers daily croc wrestling and elephant shows.

Muang Boran (the Ancient City) is an open-air museum park featuring over 100 replicas of landmark Thai temples,

KHAO YAI NATIONAL PARK Home to wild elephants, deer, boar, tigers and innumerable species of birdlife, Khao Yai (2½ hour’s drive from Bangkok) is one of Thailand’s most impressive national parks. Hike through the jungle to altitudes of over 1,000m. Hire a

sightseeing

bangkok 101

guide as it’s easy to get lost – the park is over 2,000km2 in size, and local maps are not to be trusted. Fancy staying the night? There are state-run bungalows in the park and luxe resorts nearby. Wine lover? Some of Thailand’s top wineries – Chateau des Brumes, Granmonte Estate, PB Valley – are also in the vicinity.

NAKHON RATCHASIMA (KORAT) Both a silk and trade hub, Nakhon Ratchasima is the country’s largest province and home to Korat, its second largest city.The moated town with city gates is rewarding; and the countryside has a surfeit of Khmer ruins left over from the Angkor period, the best being in the recently restored Phi Mai Historical Park (60km north of Korat). Pak Thong Chai (30km north of Korat) is Thailand’s leading silk village.

And for horse-riding and the chance to milk cows, visit Farm Chok Chai, a working farm popular with Stetsonwearing agro-tourists.

KOH KRED Highly recommended, this ickle car-free island sits on a kink in the Chao Phraya River and is home to a Mon community renowned for their ancestral red-clay pottery skills.

Seriously sleepy during the week, the palm-clad place goes into commercial overdrive on weekends. Bangkok cityslickers stroll its narrow footpaths, past working pottery warehouses, old Buddhist temples and homes selling hand-finished ceramics and tasty Mon kanom (snacks). By the time they’ve gone full circle, a few hours later, they’re smitten. Take a regular express boat up the Chao Phraya River to Nonthaburi and hire a long-tailed boat (B500 approx). Alternatively, on Sundays, the Chao Phraya Express ferry offers a guided tour for B300 (www. chaophrayaboat.co.th). bangkok 101

SARABURI Though often overs hadowed by neighbouring Lopburi, this central province, 108km north of Bangkok, still packs a thrill or two. Its 1½m-long Buddha footprint makes Wat Phra Putthabhat one of the most important temples in the region.

And caves, like Tham Phra Pothisat, draw crowds thanks to their beautiful stalactite formations and Buddhist bas-reliefs, as does Chet Sao Noi Waterfall. The main attraction though is definitely out in the fields – from Nov-Jan bright sunflowers blanket the land, providing vibrant photo opportunities galore.

PHETCHABURI Sacred Buddhist caves, neoclassical palaces, a quirky provincial market town – there’s more to Petchaburi province than the beach resort town of Cha Am. Best savoured over a long-weekend, sights include Wat Yai, a beautiful 17th century temple complex; and the stalactite and sculpture strewn Tham Khao Luang cave. To the west is also the scandalously underrated Kaeng Krachan National Park, where camp sites, butterfly and bird watching, water rafting and a stunning reservoir fringed by undulating hills await.

CHACHOENGSAO An hour’s drive to the east, Chachoengsao rarely make the travel guides but is popular with locals.

Smothered along the banks of the Bang Pakong River, the town boasts the temple Wat Sothon and 100-year sightseeing old market Talad Baan Mai, where vendors flog traditional delicacies from within wooden King Rama V-era shophouses. Renting a boat to go see the old teak and stilted houses that line the

sides – and the dolphins who migrate here between Nov and Feb – is also popular.

RATCHABURI Ratchaburi’s Damnoen Saduak floating market is the hokiest in the land. But “The Land of the Kings” does have other qualities: unspoilt klongs (canals), hot stream Bo Khloung, the cascading Kaew Chan waterfall, and stalagmite and stalactite caves. For artsy-boho types there’s also the Suan Silp Baan Din Arts Centre, staging performances of old Thai arts and workshops. And at Wat Khanon temple, NangYai puppetry (an evocative but dying artform where puppet silhouettes are projected onto fabric screens) survives. Performances are on Saturdays.

CHON BURI When it comes to this industrialised province on the eastern seaboard, we say skip Pattaya, Thailand’s Sodom-onSea, and head for Koh Si Chang, a small fishing island a mere 40-minute/B40 ferry hop across the Gulf of Thailand from Si Racha Town. King Rama V loved it there; and after a few hours exploring its hillside temples, summer palaces and pebbly beaches, so will you. On the way home, Baen San is a local, bucket-and-spade beach; and Talad Nong Mon, in Chonburi town, offers toothsome regional snacks like khao lam (sweet sticky rice in bamboo tubes).

SUPHAN BURI This is where it all went down: where the legendary King Naresuan fended off Burma and rid Thailand of foreign occupation, freeing it from the Pegu Kingdom way back in 1592. At the Don Chedi, 30km from central Suphan Buri, there is a statue erected in his honour, as well as an exhibition hall and museum. Other draws include the Thai Rice Farmer’s Museum, Bueng Chawak Aquarium (64km out of town), and ancient temples dating back almost 1,000 years.

43

Sightseeing

NEARBY ISLANDS/BEACHES

No time to jet down to Koh Samui or Phuket? A handful of beach resorts and islands close to Bangkok are perfect for last-minute escapes.These span the gamut from lonely beaches offering the odd reggae shack and driftwood sign, to cosmopolitan beach resorts that have adopted the ‘built it and they will come’ philosophy with mixed results.

■ PATTAYA/JOMTIEN Most famous for its seedy nightlife, Pattaya’s been trying – well, sort of – to re-establish itself as a family destination.

Hundreds of hotels and eateries ensure competitive prices; and while the surfeit Koh Chang of self-enclosed resorts means it’s easy for those with kids or a sleaze intolerance to avoid the girly bars, sister beach Jomtien is still a better option.

■ KOH CHANG A large jungle-clad hilly gem that’s been found by the deluxe hotel industry.

Spending the night in hammocks is impossible, but fantastic beaches are still here, some hiend touristy, some budget backpacker-y. Catch a bus from the Ekkamai bus station (approx 5 hours) or fly here with Bangkok Air via Trat (approx 2 hours).

■ KOH SAMET A retreat for hip Thai youngsters who invade the island to

FLOATING MARKETS

Amphawa

Floating markets offer an idyllic taste of the Bangkok of the days of yore.

The experience depends largely on which market you choose. n DAMNOEN SADUAK Considered “the” floating market for visitors, this bustling stretch of waterway 100km southwest of the capital is two hours by car or bus, plus a 1530 minute boat ride. Arrive before the horde of tourists descend upon the market at 9am – it closes up midday. For a less-crowded option, head south to Talat Khun Phitak via water taxi from the pier on the east side of Khlong Thong Lang.

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spend days swimming in clear waters and nights sipping Thai-whisky buckets or playing the guitar on the superclean beaches. It’s worth booking ahead on weekends and public holidays, lest you want to be a source of amusement as you trudge up and down the beach desperately looking for an overpriced room.

■ HUA HIN/CHA-AM The royal summer residence town receives hordes of Thai families and package tourists. The long beach is satisfying, and is dotted with plenty of top-notch resorts like Chiva Som, the Evason, Hyatt Regency, Hilton and more. The piers filled with seafood restaurants are more of an attraction, as is the addictive night market. Nearby Cha-am is Hua Hin’s smaller, less developed sister.

Coach loads of Thai townies come here on weekends to fly kites, ride ponies and generally lark around in the ocean.

■ KO SI CHANG Located a cheap 45 minute ferry journey from Si Racha Town, in Chonburi province, scenic Koh Si Chang is seldom visited by foreign tourists. More fool them – though its more of a sightseer island than a sunbather island, it’s got picturesque lookouts, King Rama V era palaces and Chinese temples to explore.Those wanting to overnight can pick from a few cheap resorts and bungalows.

GETTING THERE By bus: to Damnoen Saduak from the Southern Bus Terminal every 40 minutes from 6am (02-435-5031 or 434-5558). n TALING CHAN For a kinder, gentler introduction to the world of floating markets, Taling Chan is a destination often overlooked on most tourist itineraries.

Built by former Bangkok governor Chamlong Srimuang in 1987 to honour HM the King’s 60th birthday,Taling Chan also offers live performances of traditional Thai music from 11am-2pm. The market only opens on weekends from 9am-4pm, so make sure to plan accordingly.

n AMPHAWA Night owls can have a slice of floating market action too. This one – only open Friday to Sunday – sets up at 4pm, allowing the luxury of a lie-in. This little-known treasure is not often on the itineraries of the tourists who flock to more famous markets. Make sure to take a boat down the canal after dusk, when the lights from the riverhouses gleam and the fireflies come out to play, especially during the rainy season.

GETTING THERE By car: Drive one hour south from Bangkok to Samut Songkhram.The market is nearby Wat Amphawan Jatiyaram.

GETTING THERE By bus: Take bus #79 or #83 to Taling Chan district (02-424-5448 or 02424-1712).

Damnoen Saduak

sightseeing

bangkok 101

Thailand is a vast area adorned with year-round festivals that are surely not limited to the capital city. Many, if not most, nationally celebrated events originate in other provinces and the chance to go to the root of these annual festivities should not be passed up.This month don’t limit yourself to the wonders of Bangkok. Instead go out and explore the endless possibilities of Thailand.

upcountry festivals

Until 5 Dec

23rd Phuket King’s Cup Regatta

Considered the jewel in the crown of the Asian Yachting Circuit, with action on and off the crest of the wave, this event attracts global yachting souls on magnificent yachts to challenge, tease, celebrate and socialize with the island’s characters. Watch world-class race teams compete on the Andaman waters; and party to the fullest at events around the island. www.kingscup.com

3-6 Dec

Third Thailand International Balloon Festival

Over 300,000 flocked to Khao Yai last December to witness over 60 balloons from the far ends of the globe paint the skies in a swirl of buoyant colour – this in spite of the blockade at Bangkok’s airport. This year’s festival - around the ruins of the ancient city of Ayutthaya will no doubt draw similar numbers. www.thailandballoonfestival.com

19 Dec

The Smiley Fest, Pattaya

Time to dust off your pork-pie hat... there’s a reggae ska festival taking place on a beach near Pattaya this month.

The line-up is downright ska-tastic: legends The Skatalites will perform, as will Jamaican superstars Prince Fatty and Little Roy, and natty-dredded local favourites T-Bone. Also playing are The Superglasses, a cheeky young brass band that always get the crowd jumping with their frenetic ska takes on Thai classics.

Tickets B800, www.thaiticketmajor.com

6-7 Dec

Chiang Mai Bike Week

Get your motor runnin’ and head out on the highway, it’s time to celebrate a whole decade of Chiang Mai’s premier showcase of motorbikes. This year’s edition will be held at the Sirinart Garden Hotel, offering up over 10,000 square metres of space displaying only the very best of all things that make us born to be wild. And, naturally, there will be an Easy Riders style drive through the city. www.chiangmaibikeweek.com bangkok 101

sightseeing

12-21 Dec

Ayutthaya World Heritage Fair

This annual event remembers the once dominating force in the region, the Kingdom of Ayutthaya, which was the seat of power for over 400 years.

Celebrations include traditional culture shows, exhibitions and light and sound shows which all take place amongst the historic ruins.Check www.thaiticketmajor. com for info on showtimes.

25-26 Dec

Chang in Love @ Pai, Mae Hong Sorn

A hippified hamlet near the Burmese border, Pai is a beautifully laidback magnet for those who like to takes things super slow. During this Yuletide knees-up rock bands like Modern Dog and Sek Loso will lively up the place on Xmas day, and more chill acts like Koh Mr. Saxman serenade the hungover masses on Boxing Day. Showtimes are from 3pm to 3am, on both days, and it will be held at the scenic Coffee in Love Cafe. Two-day pass cost B1,200 from www.thaiticketmajor.com 45

Sightseeing

over the border

T

hree hours drive east of Hanoi, 2,000 uninhabited limestone karsts ripple, one after the other, through the Gulf of Tonkin.

Lush, sparsely forested islets as far as the eye can see during the day, eerie silhouettes at night, these combine to form a majestic seascape. One similar to Thailand’s Krabi or China’s Guilin, only on a more epic scale.

Geologists posit that Halong Bay was formed over millions of years; but it’s creation myth is more exciting: locals believe the ‘Bay of the Descending Dragons’ was formed by dragons, sent to ward off Chinese and Mongol warships. Jewels, spewed from their mouths, hardened to form almost 2,000 limestone outcrops.These acted as a natural shield that has staved off enemy attack since the 13th Century.

Today, Halong Bay has seen a different kind of invasion: the tourist kind (such is the fate of all UNESCO World Heritage Sites these days).

Halong City has been infiltrated by ugly hotels. Chinese, Taiwanese and Korean tourists spend days on pleasure cruises, nights rolling the dice in garish casinos. And hundreds of boat operators vie for the dollars of those who want to see Halong Bay up, close and personal.

There’s no doubt about it, the slow (overnight) boat is the best way to see the bay. Picture waking up to the sight of morning fog creeping through a valley of floating islands, your boat anchored in calm, jade green waters.

Add a luxurious cabin, a fulsome breakfast or buffet, and the fact that your boat is a replica 17th century Chinese Junk or colonial paddle steamer and you’ve got yourself a highlight of the exotic Far East.

It’s not all about cooing at sublime rock monoliths – which bear more than a passing resemble to Scaramanga’s lair in The Man with the Golden Gun – while you kick back 46

HALONG BAY Tripping the limestone fantastic

Sung Sot Cave

sightseeing

bangkok 101

China Hanoi

Hong Gai Hai Pong

Laos

Halong Bay

Vietnam M

ek on

g

Thailand

ACCOMMODATION Google “Halong Bay cruise” and you’ll encounter yet one more example of bangkok 101

that distinctly modern phenomenon: the curse of choice – so many tour operators and boats serve Halong Bay that it’s hard to know where to start.

As a rule, most boat trips span one or two nights and include transfers to and from Hanoi. Word of mouth is probably the best way to assess which boats thrill and which have guests wanting to jump ship; but here are two operators that consistently get good reviews and really push the boat out when it comes to swoony, old world opulence: BHAYA CRUISES Identifiable by their billowing ginger sails, these two new-built junks are borderline 5-star – compact cabins come with aircon, hot showers and hi-ply cotton beds, the swank restaurant serves upscale Vietnamese, and, on the sundeck,Tai Chi sessions and cooking classes are held. If there’s a downer it’s that single travellers would probably feel out of place (one of the budget, backpacker-orientated boats would probably suit you better). One night or two night trips available.

n Hanoi – Halong Bay Boat cruise packages typically include transfers by road from Hanoi to Halong Bay, and back again. If you want to travel the 170km independently however, take the bus from Gia Lam Bus Station (Contact: 3827-1529).The journey takes about 3 and a half hours and costs 50,000 Dong.

Stay n Bhaya Cruise +84 (0)91-216-1362 | www.bhayacruises.com | sales@ bhayacruises.com - $159/person for a 2 day cruise - $209/person for a 2 day cruise plus 1 free night at the Intercontinental Hanoi Westlake Hotel

Photograph by Gavin Gough for Vietnam National Administration of Tourism

in nautical high-luxury however. The semi-shelter provided by the karsts makes this an excellent location for getting out on the open-water, be it for kayaking, fishing, swimming or snorkelling. And the caves that pepper Halong Bay can often be explored.

One of the most popular is Sung Sot Cave, a vast, gaping grotto filled with strange stalactite formations.

Artificial lighting lends it an almost art-installation like feel; and from its entrance, reached by a flight of stone steps, one gets a stunning birds-eye view down over postcard-perfect Bo Hon Bay. Equally vast is Hang Dau Go, which the French gave the apt sobriquet, the Grotte des Merveilles, or Cave of Marvels.

Longer boat trips (typically those lasting two nights, three days) also jaunt around Cat Ba Island, the largest island in Halong Bay, with guests often able to hop off to plonk themselves on its sandy strips or explore its quaint fishing villages. Half of the island was declared Cat Ba National Park back in the 1980s and there is some challenging hiking on offer here. Ferries travel here from the mainland and Cat Ba town is filled with waterfront hotels, so you can easily stop over.

Getting There n Bangkok – Hanoi Thai Airways: daily flights, www.thaiair.com Air Asia: daily flights, www.airasia.com

n Emeraude Classic Cruises (84-4)-3934-0888 | www.emeraudecruises.com | sales@emeraudecruises.com $339-686 (Oct 09 – April 10 rates) Bhaya Cruise

EMERAUDE Cruise the bay in style aboard the Emeraude, a luxuriously appointed replica colonial paddler steamer with a romantic history to match the polished wood and brass fittings. Only two day, one night trips are available. sightseeing

47

Arts

contemporary art Steven Pettifor

W

hat could be a better memento of a stay in Thailand than hanging an original piece of contemporary art in your home? Bangkok’s shops and markets teem with nostalgic Buddhistinfluenced paintings and sculptures, but there are also numerous commercial and non-profit galleries that exhibit the fruits of Thailand’s growing artistic presence.

Bangkok has a small, vibrant and highly resourceful contemporary art circle, which is slowly beginning to make waves within the international art arena, aided to some extent by the Western ar t world’s recent penchant for all things Asian. The trend has been for ambitious installation and multimedia projects, proving popular with the younger generation of artists.

Spirituality and Buddhism have been, and still are , major themes in contemporary art, whether coming from neo-tr aditionalist painter s including Thawan Duchanee and Chalermchai Kositpipat, whose late 20th-centur y paintings resurrect traditional perceptions of the Thai identity – as pure, harmonious, Buddhist, monarchist and patriotic – or aromatic meditative installations during the 1990s by the late Montien Boonma.

Away from the spiritual, the economic collapse of 1997 has fuelled many local ar tists to question the effects of globalisation upon the Thai populace. A return to an innocent agrarian existence became one common call, while more contentious artists like Vasan Sitthiket highlighted their disdain for national policies through faux-political electioneering. Conceptual photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom satirised local urbanity’s consumerist obsessions with his engaging Pink Man series.

Ironically, as leading artists question the ceaseless and unconditional absorption of all things American and

48

Kathmondu Gallery

European, many of Thailand’s freshfaced generation of artists are infatuated with the street-style, urban iconography of pervasive Asian cultures like Japan, Korea and increasingly China.

An indicator of the growing profile of Thai art could be in the proliferation of new commercial galleries that have opened in the last couple of years, with Bangkok gaining over a dozen new venues in different areas across the city.

These include artist -run spaces such as printmaker and sculptor Thavorn Ko-Udomvit’s grey cube Ardel, and Rirkrit Tiravanija’s hotbed of young conceptualists at Gallery VER. While Thailand’s ongoing political debacle has complicated ar tistic planning, the decade-plus wait for the new Bangkok Art & Culture Centre, opposite MBK shopping mall, is over.

For news of its exhibitions, performances and the like log on to www.bacc.or.th GALLERIES The majority of contemporary art on view in Bangkok is produced by domestic practitioners, several of whom are now receiving significant international exposure, though there is ar ts

an increasing number of regional Asian artists displaying their works, at prices often cheaper than in countries like Singapore, China and Vietnam.

Whether hoping to peruse some emerging local protagonist, or purchase something a bit more com- mercial or traditional, one thing’s for certain – prices for art in Bangkok are more realistic and reasonable than overinflated, fashionable ar t centres in America, Europe and increasingly China.

You’ll soon realise that the city doesn’t have a concentrated artistic enclave; rather, there are small pockets of galleries, auction houses and antiques shops randomly dispersed throughout the city. Commercial galleries are spread across town and a little route planning is advised before embarking on a day of gallery musing. On the following page is a selection of noteworthy galleries about town.

Steven Pettifor is the editor of the Bangkok Art Map (BAM!), and author of Flavours: Thai Contemporary Art. He is available as a consultant to art buyers; stevenpettifor@hotmail.com bangkok 101

Enjoy these selected highlights from the current issue of the Bangkok Art Map. BAM! is a free-folding city map containing the latest information and critical insights into Thailand’s burgeoning contemporary arts scene. Grab a copy and participate in the promotion of art in Thailand.

exhibitions

Masters

The Art of Marie Schem & Alan Berg Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit 250 Sukhumvit Rd | | 02-649-8366 | www. sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit Set within the elegant Library surrounds of the Sukhumvit hotel, this duo exhibition has a curious pairing of French portrait painter Marie Schem with American Pop artist Alan Berg. Hung between the rows of tomes, Schem’s vibrant portraits stare at the viewer in uniform expression, with the background detailing indicating the mood of each work.

Berg’s playful silkscreen prints interlace readily identifiable Pop references as he looks toward the cult of celebrity.

Until mid Jan

Twist and Shout Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) 939 Rama I Rd, Pathumwan | 02-214-6630-1 | Tue-Sun 10am-9pm | www.bacc.or.th | BTS National Stadium A part of the Mekong-Japan Exchange Year 2009, the Japan Foundation brings together 17 established and emergent Japanese artists for this Pop inspired exhibition.

Highlighting the influence of genres such as manga and anime, as well as other trends that have emerged in the Japanese subculture in recent years, the exhibition features paintings, sculptures, videos and photographs. Organisers hope the exhibition will succeed in betraying the conventional view of Japanese contemporary culture, and, hence, prompt Thai perceptions on Japan to be renewed.

Until Jan 10 bangkok 101

Kathmandu Photo Gallery 87 Soi Pan, Silom Rd | 02-2346700 | Tue-Sun 11am-7pm | www.kathmandu-bkk.com l BTS Chong Nonsi Ahead of his upcoming participation in this year’s 6th Asia-Pacific Triennial in Brisbane and a solo exhibition at Sydney’s Chalk Horse gallery, leading Thai photographer Manit Sriwanichpoom gives Bangkok audiences a preview of his Australian expedition with his latest series Masters at his own space, the Kathmandu Photo Gallery.

Inspired by, or rather disturbed by, the commodified resin statues of highly revered late Buddhist monks, Manit was dismayed by the somewhat vapid celebrity status that had been bestowed upon these hyper-real idols. The famous clergymen have been shot in shadowy frontal poses with atmospheric backlighting that lends an aura of artificial sacredness. Their wavering apparition like presence could also be a metaphor for recent media scandals centring upon certain rogue elements within the religious order.

Until Dec 13

Story of the Eye Gossip Gallery Silom Galleria 3F, 919/1 Silom Rd Soi 19 | 02-637-7878 | Mon-Sat 10am-7pm | BTS Surasak Burgeoning Thai painter Tawan Wattuya joins forces with local fashion photographer Tada Varich for an erotically charged exhibition that arouses the senses while also questioning ever shifting sexual attitudes and the thorny subject of censorship in Thailand. Against a backdrop of mass availability of pornography via the Internet, Tawan’s teasing fluid watercolours adapted from explicit websites are a contrast to Tada’s revealing flesh dominant snapshots.

Until Dec 12 ar ts

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City of Angles photography by Chatchai Boonyaprapatsara

From a charming scene of an old lady donating money at a temple, to a picture of a tourist stood in front of a t-shirt stall near Khao San Road. From a man in traditional Thai outfit enjoying a cigarette in front of a luxury brand billboard, to a window cleaner scrubbing the face of a supermodel plastered on the side of a shopping mall.

In City of Angles, Chatchai Boonyaprapatsara captures people out on the streets of Bangkok, the “city of angels”. Employing sidelong camera angles and a lot of patience, he cleverly juxtaposes people with their background, be it mall billboard, market stall or temple, during a fleeting splitsecond moment.

Similar to the way a collage works, these juxtapositions engage the mind and raise questions about the city’s social and cultural values.

PhotoFeature

PhotoFeature

PhotoFeature

Arts

performing arts

RAM THAI (Thai traditional dance)

Bangkok’s performing arts scene may not throb like in other cities, but look under the surface and you’ll find it there, beating to its own rhythm. No, there aren’t many plays, stage shows or performance pieces being staged, and sometimes it’s as if mainstream pop and rock acts are the only things that captivate the masses. Still, fans of the performing arts can find diamonds and everybody will appreciate the low ticket prices. For more information on what’s happening, visit these sites for event information: www.thaiticketmaster.com, www.bangkokfestivals.com, www.bangkokconcerts.com

Theatres

Aksra Theatre (map C3) King Power Complex 8/1 Rangnam Rd, Phaya Thai|BTS Victory Monument | 02677-8888 ext 5678 | Tue-Fri 7pm, Sat-Sun 1pm&7pm In this spectacular new 600-capacity theatre, lined with fabled wood carvings, bear witness to hypnotic performances by the Aksra Hoon Lakorn Lek (Aksra Small Puppets) troupe. Intricate Thai puppets, given life by puppeteers swathed in black, act out Thai literary epics. Family entertainment of the most refined kind.

โรงละครอักษรา คิงพาวเวอร์ คอมเพล็กซ์ ถ.รางน้ำ

PATRAVADI THEATRE (map A3) 69/1 Soi Wat Rakhang, Arun Amarin Rd, Thonburi | 02-412-7287~8 | www. patravaditheatre.com Outside of university art departments, this is one of the few places in Bangkok to see contemporary performing arts. Its founder, the well-known Patravadi Mejudhon, created not only a theatre, but an entire arts complex, comprising classes, artists’ residencies and international exchanges.

Performers are trained in classical as well as modern traditions; and the shows are world-class.

โรงละครภัทราวดี ถ. อรุณอมรินทร์

Traditional Thai Puppet Theater (Joe Louis) (map C4) Suan Lum Night Bazaar, 1875, Rama IV Rd | MRT Lumphini | 02-252-9683-4, 02-252-5227-9 ext 101 – 104 | 8pm – 9:15pm | adults B900, children B300 | www.thaipuppet.com 56

A live puppet show might sound like it’s aimed at kids, but this one is intriguing for all. The one-hour show follows the story of the Ramakien. The large puppets are incredibly lifelike; the scenes are colourful and fun to watch – so even adults enjoy the show. Arrive early to observe the production of traditional masks.

โรงละครนาฏยศาลา หุน่ ละครเล็ก (โจหลุยส์) สวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

SIAM NIRAMIT (map D2) 19 Tiam Ruammit Rd | 02-649-9222 | www.siamniramit.com A breathtaking, record-breaking extravaganza, hailed as “a showcase of Thailand”. Using hundreds of costumes and amazing special effects, more than 150 performers journey whirlwind-like through seven centuries of Siamese history. Up to 2,000 guests experience this spectacle nightly; eyepopping poignancy to some, detached fantasia to others.

สยามนิรมิต ถ.เทียมร่วมมิตร

Traditional Thai theatre and dance takes many forms. The most accessible is khon, which depicts scenes from the Ramakien (the classic Thai epic based on the Hindu Ramayana), in graceful dances. Originally reserved for royal occasions, it’s now performed mainly for tourists in five-star hotels or at cultural shows across the city. At the Erawan Shrine (p.35), pay the colourful troupe a couple of hundred baht to see them perform. When visiting Vimanmek Mansion (p.30), don’t miss the performances there.

More popular amongst Thais is ligay, a lively blend of comedy, dance and music, often with contemporary subject matter. Due to its improvised nature, non-Thais find it very difficult to follow. Puppet theatre, which nearly died out, has made a comeback at the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre and Aksra Theatre. It also borrows heavily from the Ramakien (as do most soap operas on Thai TV), substituting human dancers with paper and wire puppets dressed in elaborate costumes.

There are regular performances of contemporary theatre in Bangkok, predominantly at the Patravadi Theatre and the Thailand Cultural Centre. Also, though more influenced

by Broadway than indigenous dance, don’t miss Bangkok’s gender-bending ladyboy cabarets (p.85).

NATIONAL THEATRE (map A3) 2 Rachini Rd, Sanam Luang | 02-2241342, 02-225-8457~8 Along with the National Museum, the imposing theatre forms an island of high culture. Classical Thai drama, musicals and music performances – all elaborate affairs, sometimes strange to foreign eyes and ears – are staged on a small side stage and the open-air sala. The season runs from November to May, but you can catch classical Thai dance and music on the last Friday and Saturday nights of each month.

โรงละครแห่งชาติ ถ.ราชินี สนามหลวง ar ts

bangkok 101

TCDC (Thailand Creative & Design Centre) Quick Bites: Design for Better Eating

cultural centres

Perhaps the most active players on Bangkok’s arts scene are its cultural centres.These ensure that the scene stays booked with top-notch exhibitions (conventional and experimental) and performances from the world of visual arts, drama, dance, music, fashion, film, design, literature and more. The foreign contingent regularly put on events showcasing international talent. Ring up, check their websites or just drop by to find out what’s on.

Kiosk

Goethe Institut

Alliance Française (map C4) 29 Sathorn Rd | BTS Saladaeng | 02-670-4200 | 10am-6pm close Sun | www.alliance-francaise.or.th

T

his hip design learning and resource facility, plonked atop the Emporium shopping mall, aims to stimulate creativity and innovation among young Thai designers.

Everyone, however, is free to attend its workshops, talks by prominent international designers and exhibitions.

These are particularly good at opening your mind and eyes to curious international design concepts; be it Vivienne Westwood’s fearlessly non-conformist fashions, or Le Corbusier-influenced Modern Thai architecture.

Don’t miss permanent exhibition, “What is Design?” a look at how 10 countries have interpreted their cultural uniqueness to create 20th century design classics; or a peek at the swish, state-of-the-art library. With over 16,000 rare books, a large selection of multimedia, even a textile centre, this is where the city’s fresh-faced art, fashion, design and film students rush to the day before their final paper is due – only to end up distracted by the obscure arthouse DVDs and glossy tomes on modern Scandinavian architecture. Fortunately in-centre café Kiosk, with its strong Italian coffee and all-day-brunch, is on hand to keep the Kingdom’s next big things on track.

ดิ เอ็มโพเรียม ชอปปิ้ง คอมเพล็กซ์ สุขุมวิท 24

WHERE 6F,The Emporium Shopping Complex, Sukhumvit 24 (map D4) BTS Phrom Phong, 02-6648448, www.tcdc.co.th OPEN 10:30am-9pm closed Mon bangkok 101

สมาคมฝรั่งเศสกรุงเทพ ถ. สาทรใต้

BRITISH COUNCIL (map C3) 254 Chulalongkorn Soi 64 Siam Square, Phaya Thai Rd, Pathumwan | BTS Siam | 02-652-5480 ext 108 | www.britishcouncil.or.th

บริติช เคาน์ซิล สยามสแควร์

Goethe Institut (map C4) 18/1 Goethe, Sathorn Soi 1 | MRT Lumphini | 02-287-0942~4 ext.22 | 8am-6pm | www.goethe.de/

สถาบันเกอเธ่ 18/1 ซ. เกอเธ่ สาทร ซ. 1

Japan Foundation (map D3) Serm-mit Tower, F10, Sukhumvit Soi 21 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-260-8560~4 | Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat 9am-5pm | www.jfbkk.or.th

เจแปน ฟาวน์เดชั่น ชั้น 10 อาคารเสริมมิตร สุขุมวิท 21

Check also: ■ Bangkok Music SocietY (BMS) 02-617-1880, www.bms.in.th ■ Bangkok Symphony Orchestra, 02-223-0871-5, www.bangkok symphony.net ■ The Belgian Club of Thailand (BCT) www.belgianclub-th.com ar ts

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Arts

cinema

B

angkok boasts world-class, stateof-the-art movie theatres showing the latest Hollywood and Thai blockbusters. A select few cinemas, notably House and Lido and the city’s cultural centres (p.57), screen less common independent and international films. Thai films are usually, in downtown Cineplexes at least, shown with English subtitles; foreign films with subtitles in Thai. Seats are reasonably priced at around B100-180. The best place to check screening times is on Please the daily-updated stand while the www.movieseer.com. king's anthem is

Thai Cinema

played in respect to Thailand’s beloved monarch.

Noy Thrupkaew

Judging from the city’s movie posters, Bangkok visitors might assume that Thai filmic fare is limited to elephantine historical epics, maggoty horror flicks and the offerings of culture-colonising Hollywood. But sandwiched in-between the mainstream movies are a number of idiosyncratic indies that are winning a name for Thai cinema abroad.

Thailand’s most internationally renowned director, Apichatpong Weerasethakul, has made a career out of bending genres, as in his bewitchingly strange Cannes-winning feature, Tropical Malady (Sat Pralad, “Strange Beast”, is the original title). Other Thai filmmakers have emulated Weerasethakul’s border-transgressing ways, steeping Thai tales in Western cinematic influences, or working with international backing.

Despite Thai film’s increasing acclaim, impatient distributors often pull small pictures within days. Audiences eager to support emergent cinema should track movies at the Thai Film Foundation’s website www.thaifilm.com or at Thai film critic Anchalee Chaiworaporn’s www.thaicinema.org, and gallop to theatres soon after opening day.

POPCORN PARADISO

If you don’t fancy the local cineplex or your frontroom there’s another option that falls comfortably between the two. Monday is Popcorn Paradiso night at Bed Supperclub (p.84), where creative chef Cameron Stuart serves a choice of two appetizers, three mains, and two desserts for you to chow on while you watch a classic or cult flick (B1,450++). And, of course, you lie on fluffy white divan beds to eat: the perfect position for watching a movie. First up, on Dec 7, is Brigadoon, MGM’s 1954 musical romance about a Scottish village that only awakens for one day every 100 years. On Dec 14,Tony Manero (John Travolta) will strut his stuff in 1977 disco juggernaut Saturday Night Fever; and on Dec 21, George Bailey (James Stewart) will face financial ruin on Christmas Eve in a screening of Frank Capra’s small-town bittersweet comedy It’s a Wonderful Life. Last up, on Dec 28, is Miracle on 34th Street. In this 1947 Christmas heart-warmer, Edmund Gwenn plays Kris Kringle, a bearded old gent who is the spitting image of Santa Claus. Films start at 6:45pm. 02-651-3537, www.bedsupperclub.com 58

ar ts

APEX Lido, Siam and Scala (retro 1960s) Siam Square, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | Lido 02-252-6498, Scala 02251-2861, Siam 02-251-3580 โรงภาพยนต์ลโิ ด สยาม และสกาลา

สยามสแควร์ ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Grand (Gold Class) Siam Discovery Centre, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-812-9999 สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รเ่ี ซ็นเตอร์

ถ. พระราม 1

EGV Metropolis (Gold Class) Big-C Ratchadamri (opp. Central World Plaza), Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chitlom | 02-812-9999 บิก ๊ ซี ราชดำริ ตรงข้ามเซ็นทรัล

เวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ

HOUSE (Boutique art film cinema) Royal City Avenue (RCA), Petchaburi Rd | 02-641-5177 เฮ้าส์ อาร์ซเี อ ถ. พระรามเก้า Krungsri IMAX Theater (features the world’s largest movie screen) 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Rd | BTS Siam | 02-129-4631 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 PARAGON CINEPLEX 5th Fl., Siam Paragon, Rama | Rd l BTS Siam | 02-129-4635-6 or Movie line 02-515-5555 สยามพารากอน ถ. พระราม 1 SF CINEMA CITY MBK (VIP Class) 7th Fl., MBK Center, Phaya Thai Rd | BTS National Stadium | 02-611-6444 มาบุญครองเซ็นเตอร์ ถ. พญาไท SFX CINEMA CITY Emporium (Cineplex) 6th Fl., Emporium, Sukhumvit 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-9333 เอ็มโพเรียม สุขม ุ วิท 24 SF WORLD CINEMA 7th Fl., Central World Plaza, Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-268-8888 เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์พลาซ่า ถ. ราชดำริ SF World,CentralWorld

bangkok 101

reading & screening

In Print

Bangkok is home to an eye-popping array of excellent bookshops, small, large and sprawling. Just head for any major mall – Siam Paragon, Emporium, All Seasons Place, CentralWorld or Central Chitlom, to name a few (see mall listings on p. 102) – and look for chain favourites like Asia Books, Kinokuniya, B2S, Nai-In or Bookazine. Plenty of other stand-alone local book stores across town offer the latest in print, new and used.

ASIAN APHRODISIACS Jerry Hopkins | Periplus Publishing | 43pp | B550 It should shock noone to read that Bangkok’s best-known resident biographer, now in his seventies, has a yen for Viagra. At least Jerry Hopkins is cheerfully straight-up about his reliance on the trouserrouser. He thus admits to a healthy dose of scepticism when it comes to quainter Asian aphrodisiacs, saying in the preamble that “Most of it” – the Tiger’s penis potions; the sheep’s eye cock-rings; and other bewildering exotic erotica – “is crapola”. Even so, his upbeat romp through the history of Oriental pick-me-ups is always a curiosity-arousing affair. And the old chap gets endearingly hands-on whenever given the opportunity to sample the local pocket-rocket fuel.

You have to admire his pluck and his willing – and evidently quite a few have.

On DVD

Thai theatres are notorious for their rapid turnover rates, making DVDs one of the best ways for visitors to explore Thai film. Thai DVDs are readily available in Mang Pong or CD Warehouse outlets in major malls, but before purchasing check the back for English subtitles and DVD region compatibility, if you don’t have an all-region DVD player. Englishsubtitled versions are also often available as exports from Hong Kong at websites such as www.hkfilm.com or www.yesasia.com. bangkok 101

A JOURNALIST IN SIAM Andrew A. Freeman | White Orchid | 341pp “For God’s sake don’t go to Bangkok” plead Andrew A. Freeman’s friends in the opening pages of his sumptuously written travelogue from the 1920s.

Thankfully for us he ignored them, because what follows is a Merchant Ivory movie in waiting – a lyrical, steamship-era account of his time here as editor at The Bangkok Daily Mail, an English-language daily owned by King Pradjadhipok. It’s Orientalist to the core, with sepia-toned exoticism spilling off its pages as native’s eyes “sparkle with childlike wonder” and ceremonial elephants rampage through the city.

But even more gripping than Freeman’s wonderment is his flair for sympathetic reportage. This he uses, like a crowbar, to pry open the racist attitudes of the gin-sipping Europeans – a cloistered white colony whose life is one long struggle not to be laughed at. It’s a joy to read; Bangkok’s Burmese Days.

ELEPHANTS: LIVING IN SANCTUARY Sangduen ‘Lek’ Chailert | Elephant Nature Foundation | 149pp | B1,200 With many begging on streets or performing demeaning circus tricks, sometimes it seems as if the beloved symbol of this nation isn’t so beloved at all. Quite a fall from grace for a creature that once fought in battles. However it’s not all bad news – Northern Thailand’s Elephant Nature Park has been giving shelter, medical treatment and lots of TLC to the most needy for the past 16 years. This splendid coffee table book is both a celebration and a confirmation of the good work they do, presenting over 200 colour photos of its guests living in what can only be described as a state of unfettered and carefree elephant ecstasy.

They play, they tease, they bond, they even seem to smile – a far cry from the tense, harassed creatures that roam our streets. Buy this lovely book and you’ll help them save more: all proceeds go to supporting this pioneering sanctuary.

SONG OF CHAOPHAYA (NONG MIA) M. L. Chatrichalerm Yukol | 1990 | $8.5 | www.ethaicd.com This river drama,Thailand’s 1990 Oscar submission, is a stirring slice of social realism by M.L. Chatrichalerm, a prince known for his films about common folk (think Thailand’s very own Mike Leigh, only minus the kitchen sinks). Bored with a life spent floating sand up Bangkok’s Chao Phaya River, wife Prang gets off the barge in search of stardom. When husband Sang obsessively tries to find her, his plucky little sisterin-law Prang – the titular nong mia – is left holding the baby, literally. Like in earlier film Hotel Angel, Chatri’s Bangkok is vice-filled – all throbbing go-go bars, fishbowl massage parlours, creepy mamasans and conniving taxi drivers. And the plot – and pleng peau chiwit folk songs, which bookend the film – seems to promote the idea that the lower classes should never aim high. But though its message may be didactic and dubious, Nong Mia wrings feeling out of you by dint of its lovely on-location cinematography, lack of melodrama and trio of sympathetic characters well-acted.

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59

Food&Drinks

dining in bangkok

Ascott Sathorn

Food is of the utmost importance here. Locals have been known to brave the beast of Bangkok traffic and make cross-town journeys with the sole purpose of sampling a bowl of noodles at a famous local shop.

Thais often ask each other “Gin Kao Leu Yung” or “Have you eaten rice yet?”. This shouldn’t be understood in the literal sense, but almost as another way Thais say hello. It’s how Thai people socialise. Whether the occasion calls for family, friends, business, or anything in between, there’s usually food nearby. The Thai dining experience requires that all dishes be shared - real evidence of the importance of dining to the Thai sense of community.

A

taste of Bangkok doesn’t just stop at Thailand’s world-famous national cuisine; flags of all nationalities fly here, and the results can be amazing. Tom yum soup and creamy curries can be found alongside seared foie gras, crispy tempura and heart-stopping steaks. It won’t be a challenge to find some culinary dynamite for your palate. You’d be better off compiling a list of what the city doesn’t have on offer.You’re bound to eat very well, whether it is at the sexiest, high-end locales, or at the origin of most local food - the streets, where you can get a very tasty, hearty meal at a nondescript stall, or even crackling grasshoppers and worms!

Fantastic food is also available round the kitchen clock, although choices narrow as it gets closer to midnight. Many restaurants have closing times at 9pm or earlier.

However, plenty of them feed late-night appetites (see p.77 ). If you really want to bump elbows with the locals and get to the heart of things, Bangkok’s street food culture doesn’t acknowledge the concept of time, with some vendors even carrying on into the wee hours. If a business can survive by trading when everyone is asleep, then it must be good, right?

So whether you’re a night owl or an early bird, slightly picky or a try-anythingonce daredevil, you’re in for a non-stop gastronomical journey.

BANG FOR YOUR BAHT

The price guide to the right indicates what you can expect to pay per-person for a meal, not including drinks. Many restaurants run special deals so don’t be shy when asking about promotions, especially at lunchtime when many of the more upmarket restaurants offer set-menus at great prices. Lastly, to avoid any nasty surprises be sure to read the menu carefully. When prices are followed by “++”, the so called “plus plus”, this means 10%) and government tax (typically 7%) will be added to your bill.

$ under B400 $$ B400 – B1,000 $$$ B1,000 – B2,000 $$$$ over B2,000 a service charge (typically

Butt Out

Smokers beware. Lighting-up indoors is forbidden at all air-conditioned restaurants and bars citywide – you risk being fined B2,000 (US$60), and subjecting the restaurant owner to a lashing B20,000 (US$600) penalty. Exempted are outdoor areas, and, in practice, many Japanese and Korean restaurants.

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food & drinks

bangkok 101

ban

101

Christmas & New Year’s Menus

Being in Bangkok for Christmas or New Year doesn’t mean you have to forgo the stilton and mince pies. Far from it: Bangkok’s restaurants, especially those in hotels, take no prisoners when it comes to festive season blow-outs. And typically charge little more than the price of a couple of Grade A turkeys back home. Here’s the pick of the bunch.

Ascott Sathorn

Call 02-676-6969 Bed supperclub

Call 02-651-3537 Millenium Hilton

Call 02-442-2000 InterContinental Bangkok

Call 02-656-0444 The Sukhothai

Christmas

New Year's Eve

Aldo’s Bistro & Wine Bar will serve a Christmas Eve set dinner and Christmas Day set lunch (B1,450++ per person)

Aldo’s Bistro&Wine Bar will serve a New Year’s Eve Set Dinner (B2,800++ per person)

The 5 course Xmas Eve set menu at the space-age nightclub includes one festive Red Apple Bellini welcome drink, and free entry to the party afterwards featuring Bangkok’s favorite hiphop DJs, the Bangkok Invaders. B2,450 nett.

Celebrate your journey into a new decade – the 2010s – with a special 5 course set menu. One welcome drink is included as is free entry to the club’s always extravagant and different New Year’s Eve party. B7,500 nett.

Riverside restaurant Flow promises a Christmas Eve Buffet Dinner (THB 3,500++ per person) with Christmas favourites, a live band and “the sharp tang of pine needles in the tropical air”. On Christmas Day, enjoy a Jazz brunch (B1,500++ per person), or a Christmas Night buffet (B1,950++ per person). Afterwards head up to skyhigh bar ThreeSixty for brandies and laid-back live jazz.

On Flow’s chic riverside terrace international cuisine will appear alongside urban dance shows, DJs, live acts and fireworks displays (B4,900++ per person). For a birds eye view of the city's fireworks, consider 32nd floor jazz lounge Threesixty. A five course set menu here includes a complimentary glass of champers (B12,000++ per person).

On Xmas Eve, indulge in a 5-course set menu at Fireplace Grill (B3,500++); or a gala seafood buffet at Espresso (B2,900++ per person). The emphasis on seafood continues on Christmas Day, with Espresso’s buffet lunch starring dishes like baked blue-lipped mussel with white wine and fresh herb (B2,500++/person).

Two choices: a buffet in Expresso (B3.500++ per person), or a set menu in dinner Guy Grossi’s snazzy, self-titled trattoria (B2,500++ per person). In Espresso there’ll be free flow champagne, wine and beer for an extra B1,500++, while, in Grossi, dishes like suckling pig in porchetta will have guests anticipating more than just midnight.

On Christmas Eve, enjoy a buffet dinner with jazz band at Colonnade (B3,800++) or a five-course Gala dinner at Italian La Scala (B3,500++). The Christmas Day brunch, at Colonnade, will be rammed so book early (B2,250++).

Start the celebrations with some lovely bubbly in The Zuk Bar, then go on to enjoy a fabulous seven-course menu that includes a dish prepared with white truffle “Mona Lisa” gnocchi at Italian La Scala (B4,500++ per person). Afterwards, shimmy the night away to DJs at The Zuk Bar Countdown Party (B,800 net including two drinks).

Mistral’s exec chef, Boris Cuzon, will serve a trad Christmas Eve dinner buffet (B1,800 net); ditto at lunchtime on Christmas day (B1,000 net). For a more high-falutin/high-altitude xmas eve dinner consider wine bar V9’s five-course menu (B3,500 net /B4,800 net with wine). If you don’t fancy turkey and all the trimmings, enjoy a Xmas day all-you-can-eat Chinese at Shanghai 38 (B1,200 net).

Mistral is laying on a buffet featuring Pacific seafood and festive delicacies (B,2010 net); Shanghai 38 a sumptuous Chinese dinner including grilled king prawn with “Chin Chew” sauce (B3,000 net); while wine-bar V9 will serve an epicurean adventure (B6,000 net/B,7500 net including wines) followed by a masquerade party with tunes and a mini-concert from DJ Gene Kasidit (B1,000 net including glass of bubbly).

NA

Popular Indian restaurant Rang Mahal is going to light 2,010 lights/candles to celebrate the year 2010.They’re also offering 4 different dinner options: a buffet with all inclusive drinks (B3,552++), a buffet without drinks (B2553++), a buffet for 6-12 year olds (B990++) and drinks on the open-air terrace just before midnight (B888 net including two house drinks).

Starts at 8pm.

Call 02-344-8888 Sofitel Silom

Call 02-238-1991 ext.1361 The Rembrandt Hotel

Call 02-261-7100 Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit

Enjoy a Christmas Eve dinner buffet or Christmas Day brunch in their Italian restaurant Basil, Thai restaurant basil or The Living Room(adults: B2,900++/kids: B1,500++). Both sittings will feature live jazz from Randy Cannon and triolive.

Orchid Café will serve a dinner buffet on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day (B1,790++).

Bar Su will be playing party sounds until the wee hours (B2,500 net including two drinks or glass of Champagne) and there will be live jazz with Alice Day in The Living Room until 1:30am. Beforehand, gather fuel for the long night ahead with a buffet dinner at Orchid Café (B2,990++), or an 8-course set menu at Rossini’s (B4,500++/B6,500++ including vino and glass of champagne).

Citi Bistro is offering an international Christmas Eve buffet dinner (B1,500nett), Kayageum a seafood Korean lunch and dinner buffet on 24th and 25th (B1,312 nett) and Loop Italian is laying on a rustic Christmas Eve Italian dinner (B1,800 nett).

Make your last meal of the noughties a Korean at Kayageum’s dinner buffet (B1,312 nett), or hit the lavish international buffet feast at Citi Bistro (B2,010 nett). The big party will be poolside: Dine and Dance, a festive dinner buffet with dance show, live music and a fireworks display (B3,900 net).

Call 02-649-8368 Pathumwan Princess Hotel

Call 02-216-3700

bangkok 101

food & drinks

61

Food&Drinks

thai cuisine

Did you know?

Khao Niao-Gai Yang (Barbecued Chicken-Steamed Sticky Rice)

T

he chance to sample some authentic Thai cuisine is one of the best reasons to visit (and linger in) Bangkok. Its astonishing variety of flavours and textures, which comes from a marriage of centuries-old Western (namely Portuguese, Dutch and French) and Eastern (think Indian, Chinese and Japanese) influences, ranks Thai as one of the best cuisines in the world.

The traditional Thai way of living unified people with their environment. Meals were communal events uniting families with the seasons. Rice is the main staple, accompanied by myriad curries and side dishes made from local ingredients.The pre-industrial custom of wrapping foods in natur al Eating is a materials per sists communal t o d a y ; l a b o u rand intensive desser ts social affair in or savoury mousses Thailand. are wrapped in banana leaves and the tops of coconuts are chopped off for a quick and refreshing elixer. Eating is a communal and social affair in Thailand. Once Thais sit together, they automatically take care of one another. No Thai dish is an independant one; they’re all meant to be shared.

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Thai beliefs about the cooling and heating properties of different foods – particularly fruits – are influenced

by Chinese concepts of yin and yang. Excessive consumption of heating fruits like durian (the fetidly fragrant “King of Fruits”) can lead to fever, cold sores, and a sore throat, according to traditional beliefs; overindulgence in cooling fruits like pears can result in dizziness and chills.

So if you are feasting on durian, make sure to eat plenty of mangosteen, the cooling Queen of Fruits, to balance everything out.

food & drinks

Thai Food 101 ■ Popular Thai Dishes Here’s a sampling of great local dishes to look for – and it’s just the tip of the iceberg: Tom yam goong........spicy shrimp soup Tom kha gai.....chicken in coconut soup Phad thai............Thai-style fried noodles Mu/gai sa-te.........pork/chicken skewers Som tam.......spicy green papaya salad Yam nua.......spicy beef salad Gai yang..........grilled chicken Phanaeng............curry coconut cream Kaeng phet pet yang.........roast duck curry Kaeng khiao wan gai.....green curry chicken Phad kaphrao.........stir-fried meat with sacred basil Gai phad met mamuang himmaphan .......stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts ■ Drinks Most street vendors offer a range of normal drinks but there are always some surprises available. Try any of these liquid specialties when eating on the streets.

Nam ma prao.......................coconut juice Nam krajeab .............rosella flower juice Nam matoom ....................bael fruit juice Nam ta-krai ...................lemongrass juice Nam tao hoo.................hot soy bean milk Cha yen............................Thai iced tea with

condensed milk bangkok 101

ban

101

‘Polamai’: Thai Fruits

thai sweets

It’s often a strange land for foreign eyes, but weirdness is all relative.

To you those fuzzy, furry, spiky, hairy, sometimes humongous obscure items are just downright bizarre. But to the locals well, it’s just good ol’ healthy nutritious fruit. Having unfamiliar names like rambutan, mangosteen and durian only lends to the mysterious, perhaps even scary, stigma surrounding Thai fruits. Fruits (polamai) are often eaten as a snack or transformed into a dessert, or featured in meals. Particularly coconuts. Street carts patrol the sidewalks with ice-chilled offerings of seasonal fruits. However these vendors don’t exactly uphold hygiene standards, so proceed at your own discretion. All fruits are almost always available year round in supermarkets, but some are better at certain times of year. Here’s a look at what and when to eat.

December is best for: Longan (Lam-Yai)

Not to be mistaken for the similarly named Longong fruit, the Longan, known as Lam-Yai in Thai and often referred to as the “Dragon Eye”, is one of the most popular fruits in the country. Small and round, they have a thin, crisp brown skin and a translucent sweet flesh that many liken to lychees in taste, and grapes in texture. Widely found in Northern Thailand, they can be enjoyed fresh, dried, served over ice as a dessert, or even as a refreshing juice. In some parts of Southeast Asia, its seed is pressed against snake bites with the belief that they absorb venom, while the dried fruit has been used to cure insomnia. But try not to get too carried away eating them, excessive consumption of this fruit is said to be surefi re path to sore throats and mouth ulcers!

Try also: watermelon (taeng-mo), pomelo (som-o), guava (farang), banana (kluay), papaya (malakor), mangosteen (mong-koot), lychee (lyn-chee), jackfruit (kanoon), mango (ma muang), rambutan (ngoh).

Kanom Thai

The word kanom is much too schizophrenic to be summed up as Thai desserts. Although most anything that’s sweet will be categorised as a kanom, anything that you would normally snack on would be considered one as well; a pack of chips or crackers would qualify.

You may not be too familiar with traditional Thai desserts as you’d often have to go to specialty stores or stalls to find them.

Restaurants often omit them from the menu, partly due to the specific ingredients and preparation time required and also because it isn’t customary to have a dessert to end your meal.

To the uninitiated the sights of shocking green foods of any kind may scare you off but this is only a reflection of the age-old traditions of using ingredients, like pandan and coconut, which are indigenous to this region and provide to its intense colours.

Try This : SUM PAN NEE

Quite a rare find these days, this ancient treat is now mostly found in specialty shops and upcountry markets. This traditional Thai dessert is made out of corn flour, coconut milk, and sugar which is mixed and pressed into various shapes, with small animals being the most common.

Try also: Kanom Bueng – Crispy crêpes with coconut whip filling Kanom Krok – Mini coconut cream hotcakes bangkok 101

food & drinks

Sum Pan Nee

63

Food&Drinks

street eats

Street Food Hotspots

S

treet food is a central ingredient in the stew of Bangkok’s culture.

So much so that if you took away the city’s rot khen (mobile vendor carts) it would begin to taste rather bland. Some open for lunch only; others open all night. Though common to every street, knowing which carts sell what, when and where is a skill many Bangkokians pride themselves on. Short on time? Then make for one of the following hotspots, where clusters of vendors sell good feeds for pocket-change.

ealikte

Nym

Our roving street-food eater Nym knows her local grub inside out – and thrives on the stories behind the dishes. Each month, she takes an offbeat tour in search of the next delectable morsel.

From roadside vendor stalls to hidden restaurants, serious foodies would be well advised to follow her trail.

Morning Glory

Stir-fried morning glory is not hard to get in Thailand.

Anywhere you go in Bangkok you can get this delicious vegetable dish.

The ingredients are few and anybody can learn how to toss it in a hot wok. Garlic, fermented soybean (tao jiew), smashed chili followed by fresh morning glory, or pak boong as it’s called here, and lastly some seasoning with oyster sauce and sugar to match your palette – that’s it!

However nothing is like pad pak boong fai daeng at Je Ngor’s Kitchen.

What makes it special is the way the pak boong is prepared. Instead of cutting it horizontally into finger length pieces, here it’s shredded into strings as long as the plant itself. This is rare; my friend told me that she hasn’t encountered this look and texture since she was in school, when her mom cooked it.

How do they do it? I sneaked in to the side of the kitchen once during a meal here and saw the skillful kitchen staff using forks to make strips out of it.

Je Ngor’s Kitchen is run by a 70-year-old Thai Chinese lady, who spends her working life going to each of its 10 branches, making everything taste top notch. Pad pak boong is, of course, one of my fave dishes there – fresh and flavoursome. But besides that there is also pad mee krached (white angel hair noodle stir fried with water mimosa in shrimp’s roe), som tam poo ma (papaya salad with raw sea crab) and hoy thod (oyster omelet). I suggest you order all!

Address: There are many branches. Some of the most convenient include the Soi Charoenkrung 39 branch (02-235-8537) and the Sukhumwit Soi 20 branch (02-258-8008). See www.jengor-seafoods.com for directions and more branch details.

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food & drinks

Sukhumvit Soi 38 Directly beneath BTS Thong Lo station, the mouth of this soi fills up with food vendors selling late-night delicacies to revellers. Sample the delicate, hand-made egg noodles, or Hong Kong noodles; and never head home without trying the sticky rice with mango.

Surawong A long row of street vendors offers special noodle dishes along this street near Patpong Night Market. Be sure to try the stewed chicken noodles in herbal soup in front of the Wall Street Building. Stalls are open from 10pm until 4am.

Corner of Silom/Convent Road The stalls at the mouth of Soi Convent are popular with inebriated night crawlers; but it’s the B10 sticks of moo ping (grilled pork) served by one rotund, Zen master vendor that are justly famous. Go before the bars close (about 2-3am) to avoid the queues.

Pratunam Midnight khao mun gai (Hainanese chicken rice)! There are two shops at the intersection of Pratunam (on corner of Petchaburi Road Soi 30); the first one is brighter and good, but if you like your sauce authentic – with lots of ginger – go to the second one. Also, try the pork satay with peanut sauce.

Chinatown Shops fill the streets after dark.There’s an amazing range to sample, but a must-try for seafood fans is the vendor at the corner of Soi Texas.

A bit farther on the other side of the street you can get delicious egg noodles with barbecued pork. For dessert, try fantastic black sesame seed dumplings in ginger soup next door.

Soi Rambutri (near Khao San Road) Many a hangover has been stopped in its tracks after a pre-emptive bowl of jok moo (rice porridge with pork) from the stall in front of Swenson’s.

Popular among tipsy Thai teenyboppers, this is just one of Soi Rambuttri’s many late night food stalls. bangkok 101

restaurants

Basil

THAI BASIL (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-649-8366 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit.com | Mon-Sat noon-2:30pm, 6:30pm10:30pm | $$ Though its name conjures images of bungling waiters from Barcelona (ala Fawlty Towers), Basil is an elegant Thai restaurant, one of our favourites in the fine-dining bracket. Dimpled chrome tabletops, backlit walls loaded with Thai lacquerware, flute shaped ceiling lamps – it’s a woody, evocatively-styled space, the perfect setting for an amorous evening or big-shot business lunch. Chef Thanida’s

Red Pepper

whacking great white Perspex menu presents creative twists on Thai favourites, alongside steaming dollops of plain, organic or jasmine rice. The appetizer set menus offers the best chance to sample a wide selection, while a seafood specials menu dabbles in hefty, dreamboat dishes like deep fried tilapia fish blanketed in lime and Thai herb salad. Other neat touches include the complimentary miang (raw leaf wrapped with herb) set on each table, and wine list pairing bottles with dishes (always a tricky task where Thai food is concerned). Classic dishes reimagined, hi-caliber service and one sophisticated setting – need we say more? รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Red Pepper (map D3) Rembrandt Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 18 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-261-7100 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 5pm – 11pm | $$ One of the Rembrandt Hotel’s four family-friendly restaurants, Red Pepper offers a pleasant blondwood dining room, lined with red pepper watercolours and overlooking Sukhumvit Soi 20. On first glance, the menu reads like all the touristy others: stir-fried chicken with cashew nuts, tom yums etc. Look again, though, and the odd education-in-spice awaits. Dishes in this sassy vein include the tom saep nua, a Northeastern soup with a satisfying lime-tart meets chilli kick and lumps of fall-off-the-bone beef shank. We also recommend the som tum set – while the papaya salad is a touch sweet, the sticky rice and grilled chicken it comes with is so moist and tasty you’ll be fighting over the scraps.

The soft-shell crab in yellow curry also get the thumbs up, as do desserts like the hot banana fritters in ice cream. It felt a tad lifeless on our visit, but Red Pepper’s Thai food is not, making it a good choice for a quiet, informal and inexpensive dinner.

รร.แรมแบรนดท์ สุขมุ วิท ซ.18

“Joys of the Season” @ Millennium Hilton Bangkok For this Christmas Eve & New Year Eve, we are cooking up music, merriment, mirth and mmmmm good food!

Flow - Festive buffet includes international cuisine and special entertainment by the water’s edge Maya – Thai dinner theatre Prime – Seasonal A La Carte & festive Prime Classics Set Menu 31st floor Sky terrace - Rooftop Picnic under the stars ThreeSixty – New Year Eve Five-course set dinner & live jazz

For more information and reservations, please call 0 2442 2000 Millennium Hilton Bangkok 123 Charoennakorn Road, Klongsan, Bangkok 10600, bangkok.hilton.com

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Food&Drinks

Heap

The Good View

INTERNATIONAL

THE GOOD VIEW (map B4) 2525 Charoen Krung Rd, Bang Kho Laem | 02-689-1393~7 | 5pm – 1am | $ Sometimes, it’s all about the name.

That is the case with this amiable-yetmammoth nightspot perched on a breezy bend of the Chao Phraya River.

Like its Chiang Mai sister restaurant, The Good View is a favourite of young, hip Thais who prefer cold beer and a cozy snuggle to the throbbing bass of downtown nightclubs. Once you’re here it’s not hard to figure out why; The Good View (and they’re not lying) boasts 149 tables, a full Thai food menu, sushi bar and live

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entertainment warbling Thai pop tunes. Wait staff are gregarious, while ambience treads the fine line between crowded and welcoming despite the restaurant’s humongous proportions. Stand outs: stir-fried soft-shelled crab with red chilli sauce; freshwater prawns blanketed in sliced lemon grass and chilli; and a crispy deep-fried whole snapper with fish sauce; a feisty green papaya salad. But the real star of the show here isn’t on your plate. Dining al fresco is a must.

Order a beer, snuggle up and enjoy that view.

เดอะ กูด๊ วิว ถ.เจริญกรุง

food & drinks

Heap (map C3) 290/4 Phaya Thai Rd., Ratchathewi | BTS Phaya Thai | 02-612-6944 | 5:30pm 1am | $ This industrial chic bar/restaurant is a big, carefree local joint where waitresses “pretties” serve beers and bourbon to thirsty young city slickers – t-shirt and jeans are ok! Skip the insipid international (think salmon steak with pesto sauce) and head straight for the local stuff.

Unlike your touristy joints, these take an unrelenting stance on spicings. Dishes like tom yum po dek, a tasty astringent prawn soup, are likely to leave you mopping your brow; and the deep fried pork neck – a fatty, crunchy, seriously good beer snack – comes with an equally sweat-raising nam jim seafood dipping sauce.With lots of long tables and space, Heap’s a good place to booze the night away. Especially on weekends, when this industrial minimalist construction – all black steel, sketchy murals and raw concrete – is abuzz with chatter and blaring pop tunes.

ฮีพ เลยแยกราชเทวี 30 ม.

bangkok 101

Bisto M

Parc Restaurant & Bar (map C3) 231/15 Sarasin Road, Lumpini, (opp.

Lumpini Park) | BTS Sala Deang, MRT Silom | 02-251-8519 | 10am1am | $$ Sarasin Road is known for its gay bars and the popular live music venue Brown Sugar. But now there is a new kid in town named Parc Restaurant & Bar, with a minimal, white interior and relaxed atmosphere. Unlike other bars in the Lang Suan area, Parc has an extensive menu featuring many American-Italian dishes, inspired by a chef formerly of popular pizza restaurant chain Scoozi. Bruschetta, mussels and cold cuts are featured along with steaks, all at reasonable prices. Try the spicy mussels (8 pieces for B200). The big portion of crispy, fresh calamari is well worth its B150.

Go for a thick and juicy salmon steak (never been frozen!) from Norway with mashed potatoes for under 300 baht, and don’t miss their black, spicy linguine with seafood. The restaurant also offers great lunch deals with a soup, sandwich or pasta and soft drink going for B200.The level of ambition is high at Parc but the prices are not.

ปาร์คเรสเตอรองท์แอนด์บาร์ ถ.สารสิน

Parc

bangkok 101

BISTRO M (map D4) Marriott Executive Apartments Sukhumvit Park, Sukhumvit Soi 24 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-302-5555 | 6:30am – 11pm | $$ Attached to the new Marriott apartments on Sukhumvit’s Soi 24, Bistro M is being billed as a neighbourhood bistro – i.e. homestyle cooking in a laidback modern setting. Laidback it is: its glossy white, open-plan interior feels very breezy Melbournian café, with its orange mosaic accents, mineral water rack and steel buckets overflowing with travel and lifestyle magazines.

Glass plate windows overlook this hirising (and good restaurant deficient) soi while the al fresco area out front should be a hit during this month’s cooler weather. While there are no big names in the open kitchen (“yet” we’re told), the eclectic menu reads wells, using imported ingredients when needed, dodging faddish fusions. Think wild Scottish salmon and fennel salads, elegant Bouillabaisses, wood-fired pizzas down to Thai fare like the rich, robust khao soy (Chiang Mai curry noodle soup). The chalkboard is also a nice touch, proffering weekly specials like lamb rack with parma ham. Crusted with parmesan cheese, beautifully seasoned and paired with fennel-y potatoes it’s a delicious dish. It’s still early doors, but with a decent wine list in place and a lazy Sunday brunch on food & drinks

the cards, Bistro M has all the makings of that rare thing: a serviced apartment restaurant you might actually go out of your way for.

แมริออทเอ็กเซ็กคูทฟี อพาร์ทเมนท์ สุขมุ วิทปาร์ค สุขมุ วิท 24

EZILI (map E4) Arena 10 (next to Funky Villa),Thong Lor Soi 10 | BTS Thong Lor | 02-3922317 | 11am - 1am | $$ Fusion often results in confusing culinary clashes, but at Ezili (pronounced ‘Easily’) Thai meets West with delicious results.

Located on hipster pocket Thonglor Soi 10, next to nightclubs Demo and Funky Villa, the elevated loft-like design is minimalist zen, with dark steel and glass panels overlooking an artificial football field. Despite the fancy address, prices are reasonable. With beers for B100 and all cocktails B220, it’s the perfect spot to kick-start a night out – or finish one off (the kitchen and bar close at 1am). Try the seared tuna with avocado mousse and teriyaki sauce (B220) or the delicious steamed crabmeat cupcakes (4 for B120). At the more expensive end of the menu is the duck leg served with potatoes and sake miso plum sauce (B390). It’s crisp, tender and a must-try.

The sole fish with ratatouille is pan fried to perfection and the traditional pad thai presented like a work of fine art, topped with a generous shrimp (B250).

อีซิลี่ อารีน่า 10 ทองหล่อ ซ.10

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Food&Drinks

chic bangkok Cheryl Tseng

Red

BEST FOR Contemporary The name alludes to the color that is Indian WHERE124 culturally significant in India’s daily life.This Sukhumvit Soi 53, Thong Lo contemporary Indian restaurant is stylish, Soi 9 (map E4) BTS Thong with accents of red color dotted around Lo, 02-259-7590 OPEN the room. The glass-walled interior is 11:30pm-2:30pm, 6pm-11pm airy and unpretentious. Seating options include the upper floor private room or the deck surrounded by a lovely fountain and garden.

The menu offers classic and creative entrees from around the vast regions fused with Western ingredients and presented with flair. Diners are immersed in subtlety spiced aroma, such as ginger, Kalamata olives, Kashmir chilli, Bengali mustard, and dried mango powder. Created by its resident chef who exemplifies Indian cuisine and leaves a lasting impression with his signature dishes: flambéed lobster cooked tableside; Adraki Boti – delicious and ginger marinated tender lamb morsels stir-fried with fresh herbs, Hariyali pesto – tasty cilantro walnut pesto sauce penne tossed with herbed prawns, mussels and crab meat; Jhinga Tiranga – three flavored fresh river prawns that resemble the national colors. Home-made fresh mango and fig ice cream is perfect for dessert.

Chic Restaurants & Bars Bangkok is a compact food and style lover’s bible showcasing Bangkok’s most fabulous venues for dining and drinking. Global gourmand Cheryl Tseng leads you to the capital’s finest food, and its most striking décor. Each month we take a sneak peek inside, and share a taste here. A definite must-have for travelling foodies, get yourself a copy of the new 3rd edition at local book shops, or visit www.chicasia.com.

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food & drinks

bangkok 101

Nang Kwak

comes equipped with a sweeping view of the bustling activity on Soi Thong Lor. The menu is dotted with classic Italian-French bistro staples like tea-smoked duck breast salad, and a hearty rack of lamb. Some dishes feature a few Asian flairs with winning dishes like the spaghetti with grilled river prawns that comes drenched in a creamy sauce laced with velvety shrimp paste, all of which comes with a more than reasonable price tag.

นางกวัก เธิรด์ เพลซ ทองหล่อ ซ.10

ITALIAN NANG KWAK (map E4) The Third Place, Sukhumvit 63 (Thong Lor Soi 10) | BTS Thong Lor | 02-7147938 | www.nangkwak.com | 11am – 2pm, 5:30pm - 1:30am | $$$ Named after the Thai goddess of prosperity, (Nang Kwak translates to “the lady who beckons”), this stylish restaurant, located right smack in the middle of Bangkok’s hippest soi, is owned by a local celebrity couple and will quickly reel you in with its sense of sophistication and intimacy. A favourite haunt for young hipsters and local bigwig politicians, a wall covered with hundreds of miniature statues of the aforementioned goddess welcomes you inside where you can choose to dine on the ground floor café or ascend to the rooftop terrace which

bangkok 101

BACCO (map E4) 35/1 Sukhumvit Soi 53 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-662-4538 | www.bacco-bkk.com | 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-midnight | $$$ Bangkok is packed with Italian restaurants that fall at the extremes of the atmosphere spectrum – homey pizzeria or haute establishment. Bacco occupies the middle ground, a casual place serving handsome, hearty fare.

Raising the rustic osteria concept up a notch, the enormous restaurant is very family-friendly, while glossy power couples have made themselves just as comfortable as groups of relatives. The menu is as huge as the space, but Bacco does an unusually good job of ensuring consistent quality over its sprawling range of options – think wood-fired pizzas,

food & drinks

handmade pastas, grilled entrees. Our faves include the spinach cassoni – a tender piada flatbread stuffed with cheese and greens and grilled – and the appetizer sampler, which offers a lobe of foie gras, a pretty rocket salad in a Parmesan tuile, and other delights.

Pasta and risotto can occasionally suffer from inconsistent cooking, but the kitchen more than makes up for it with a feather-light gnocchi in pesto, the perfect Italian comfort food. Pizzas emerge smoky and thin-crusted – opt for a lightly dressed pie rather than a topping avalanche that would overwhelm the crust. Wonderfully fresh ingredients, excellent service, and reasonable prices – Bacco’s a great neighbourhood spot.

แบคโก สุขุมวิท ซ.53

Bacco

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Food&Drinks

Neighbourhood Nosh: Soi Rangnam Ma dam O

Ma zz Ku anine Sea ang foo d

Itto Sho kod @B u ang kok Rai

ntr ee Pub

Wa t Baa er Bar nA jaan

ipa pP ar k San t

B-R est o

Mo bile Ste ak

Wi ne Pub

Pul lma n

S ea Baa sonin nB g an

Soi Ran gna g Po m wer

Kin

Ratchaprarop Rd.

Tid a Ma Esar l Isaa lika n nR ot De t

ng

Th ai R d.

BTS Victory Monument

Ph aya

Each month we stake out one of the city’s best neighbourhoods for eating out, and serve you the skinny in an easily digestible, bite-size format.

This tree-lined, fast-evolving soi is one long eating opportunity. From freewheeling streetfood carts to local Isaan joints and expat-orientated international restaurants, it’s a great place to enjoy an affordable culinary pick-and-mix. And easily accessed – just hop off the Skytrain at BTS Victory Monument, take the exit that leads into the Century Mall complex, head down the escalator and pop through the left exit.

In the evenings the top of Soi Rangnam bristles with noodle stalls and street food (including, by 7/11, one of the best moo ping, grilled pork, stalls in town); but the first big-hitter is Tida Esarn. Its Isaan staples are popular with expats, mainly because of its amiable woodplank décor and English-language menu. However, the service is sluggish and the flavours outclassed by those at cheaper Isaan Rot Det. In our opinion, this plain Jane serves the most unadulterated Isaan food on Rangnam – if not all Bangkok. Many Thais agree with us – it’s often full. Sandwiched between them 70

is yellow-wooded Mallika, a good place to sample tongue-scouringly-hot Southern Thai dishes.

Located adjacent to this trio is Seasoning, a good looker that serves disappointing Western food, and Baan Ban, a cute little shophouse cafe in white. Dwarfing it is the King Power complex next door: a monolithic duty free complex with a Pullman Hotel round the back. F&B venues at this sleek glass and steel hotel include the Wine Pub – a purveyor of top-flight wines and tapas-y nibbles.

Back on the street, Mobile Steak is one of the sois newest additions, serving Japanese steaks and Thai in an air-con-chilled space, while Madam Ong is a hush-hush Vietnamese attached to the VP Tower serviced apartment. Further down, on a corner before the park, sits Rangnam’s best cosmopolitan eatery B-Resto. Pleasant evenings, over wood-fire pizzas and wines, can be had at this glass-panelled modern Thai/Italian.

Walking past the park and a dodgy drive-in motel brings you to a parade that includes hole-in-the-wall Japanese restaurant Itto Shokodu, as well as @ Bangkok and Water Bar. The latter are loud, hot, open-fronted Thai bars food & drinks

where locals sit at wooden stools, nursing watered-down glasses of whisky while they ogle live sports and/ or the scantily clad beer waitresses.

Both serve OK Thai food, but we prefer Raintree Music Pub. Beloved by homesick northeastern folk, this plankwood stalwart serves tasty beer snacks and is one of the few places in town where wispy-bearded musicians still strum socio-political folk songs, or pleng peua chiwit.

Three restaurants do a brisk trade at Soi Rangnam’s far end: Baan Ajaan is a Thai restaurant with a daily chalkboard clearly designed to lure in foreigners; Mezzanine an al fresco café restaurant; and Kuang Seafood is, as the name and watertanks teeming with angry lobster suggest, a good place to chow fresh sea creatures. bangkok 101

River Dining Cruises

Sea g foo d

With its superb Lanna stylings and sumptuous food Le Crystal will take your breath away. Visit our exceptional wine cellar and indulge in our outstanding French cuisine.

Grand Pearl

A cruise along the legendary Chao Phraya can only be topped by combining it with exquisite Thai food. Although touristy, a gastro-cruise is one of Bangkok’s most romantic outings, the chance to take in the river sights while getting stuffed. Most riverside hotels offer lunch and/or dinner cruises, some on large, modern ships seating hundreds (Shangri-La) or on smaller, refurbished antique rice barges (Apsara, Manohra, Oriental).Whether you are looking for a peaceful romantic sojourn, traditional dance shows or a blaring disco dinner buffet, you won’t be disappointed. Cruises range from B700 to B1,700 pp, depending on how well you dine, and last two to three hours. Most include a full buffet or set dinner. It’s wise to make advance reservations.

■ CHAO PHRAYA CRUISE 02-541-5599 | www.chaophrayacruise.com ■ GRAND PEARL CRUISE 02-861-0255 | www.grandpearlcruise.com ■ HORIZON CRUISE The Shangri-La | 02-2668165-6 | www.shangri-la.com ■ LOY NAVA 02-437-4932 | www.loynava.com ■ MAEYANANG The Oriental Hotel | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com ■ MANOHRA CRUISES 02-477-0770 | www.manohracruises.com ■ WAN FAH 02-222-8679 | www.wanfah.com ■ YOK YOR 02-863-0565 | www.yokyor.co.th

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Food&Drinks

Chok Chai Steak House

FUZIO (map E4) 6F, Mini Square, Ekkamai Soi 7 | BTS Ekkamai | 02-711-6999 | www. fuzio.co.th | 11:30am-2:30pm, 6pm10:30pm | $$$ With Italian supposedly the favoured European fare among Thais, Fuzio has entered a crowded marketplace – although by winning the "Cold Plate Challenge: Chefs' Contest for the Best Antipasto", organised by the Italian Chamber of Commerce, it has proven credentials. Located above the MINI showroom, this rooftop restaurant presents guests with a decently sized, tastefully attired dining room; slatted window shutters, vintage brown leather furniture, a cocktail bar inlaid with mother of pearl, and exposed ceiling vents create a pleasant semi-formal atmosphere. For something different, try the pan-fried Tasmanian Wagyu lamb with Marsala wine and porcini mushroom sauce. This was the first time this reviewer has been aware of Wagyu anything-other-than-beef – the designation normally being reserved for pampered Japanese calves predisposed to intense marbling. Cattle anomalies aside, Fuzio lives up to its motto: Stylish Italian Cuisine.

มินิสแควร์ เอกมัย ซ.7

Fuzio

JAPANESE

steak Chok Chai Steakhouse Prasanmit Plaza Building, 45 Sukhumvit Soi 23 | 02-259-9596 | www.farmchokchai.com | $$ Cattle ranch Farm Chokchai lures in hundreds of Stetson-wearing tourists each weekend. This, their only Bangkok restaurant, a less gung-ho affair, brings that same love of kitsch Americana to a little strip mall on Sukhumvit Soi 23, with Thai cowboy metalwork and photos all about the place. They serve country soups and sides. But of course it’s all about the miscellaneous steaks; all sourced from the farm, many dry-aged for extra tenderness. Ranging from whopping premium T-bones, to thick Highland Steaks served with sticky rice and jiew spicy sauce, these may not be quite as tasty, tender or intensely marbled as your imported Wagyu or Kobes. But they do come with much cheaper price tags (and, because they came from just down the road, much smaller carbon-footprints). Finding space for dessert is a challenge, but one you shouldn’t shirk from: they all star Farm Chokchai’s aptly titled Ummm…Milk ice cream.

Misaki (map E4) Face | 29 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 38 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-713-6048 | 6pm – 11pm | $$$ Watching skilled chefs prepare and plate sushi is surely one of the more pleasant ways to while away the time between ordering and eating. At Misaki, the latest addition to the Face restaurant/bar venue, the experience is positively serene. The décor here is unmistakably Face – huge Buddhist sculptures and rich, earthy tones – but there is a cosiness and conviviality all its own. Descending the steps to Misaki’s intimate, but not cramped, dining room feels rather peculiar – almost as though you’re being shepherded into a hush-hush wife-swapping party – but any disappointment at not dining in the venue’s justly-celebrated teak house soon evaporates. Fresh otoro (premium tuna belly) and yellowtail mark out the modestly-priced sushi combo (B490++) as something of a bargain on a high-end menu; and the simple yakitori starter (B190++) is a dish so juicy and flavoursome, one wonders why grilled chicken can’t always be this good. The grilled salmon belly is another beguilingly straightforward option.

มิซากิ สุขุมวิท ซ.38

Misaki

โชคชัยเสต็กเฮาส์ สุขมุ วิท 23

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Drinking Tea Eating Rice

INDIAN

Drinking Tea Eating Rice (map C3) Conrad Hotel | Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploenchit | 02-690-9999 | www. conradbangkok.com | 11:30am2:30pm& 6pm-10:30pm | $$$ Authentic Japanese cuisine is a world in itself, sometimes mysterious, often dazzling, always delicious. There are people that have to work up courage to go for other things than sushi and sashimi. This hotel restaurant caters equally to novices and experts of Japanese food. Some Japanese residents go as far as naming it Bangkok’s best Japanese restaurant.

Choose from squirming fresh raw fish or delicate, beer-fed Matsutaka beef, or just leave it up to the Tokyo chef ’s brilliant kaiseki set courses from the sushi bar or teppanyaki grill. The interior reflects the justifiably highpriced food: it’s simple but refined, clear-structured and luxurious. Groups should consider booking the smart private rooms with sunken tables.

Indus (map D4) 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-258-4900 | www. indusbangkok.com | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 5:30pm – 10:30pm (bar closed midnight) | $ Indians make up a big portion of the expats in Bangkok, thus the scarcity of good Indian restaurants in the city may come as a surprise. Thankfully, we’ve had Indus for more than five years. It’s quite a cosmopolitan place with rich sub-continental adornments though we favour the sloping outside seating in the large sloping garden, complete with an Indian Haveli and tables hidden by verdant flora. Equally hidden is the cool bar in the back, successfully blending New York extravagance and Moroccan panache, masculine leather sofas perfect for smoking that shisha. The menu focuses on exquisite Northern Indian cuisine (rich tikka massala, mutton curry, perfect dahl, and naan to die for); the vegetarian selection huge. The impressive interior may invoke steep prices, but most dishes hover around B120 each. This is lowcost luxury at its best. Take a cab from the BTS (skytrain) station.

อินดัส สุขุมวิท 26

Indus

รร. คอนราด ถ. วิทยุ

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VEGETARIAN VEGETA HOUSE (map C2) Ari Soi 1, Phaholyothin Rd. | BTS Ari | 02-271-3406-7 | Mon - Sat 10am 8pm | $ This lime-green shophouse – five minutes walk from BTS Ari – might be a bit off the radar, but its yummy take on Thai vegetarian means herbivores should definitely consider seeking it out, especially on the return trip from Chatuchak Weekend Market. Don’t wait at one of its 6 tables expecting a menu to materialise – there ain’t one! Instead, diners choose from the 7 daily dishes written on a colourful chalkboard, alongside drinks and smoothies. It’s in Thai, but the owner will (after ribbing you a bit) happily point you in the right direction, be it towards the spaghetti pla kem; or steamed rice with taro, a super yummy dish often served on Buddhist holidays.

There are no desserts, but at these prices – B40-60 – there’s no need to be shy about ordering another bowl of

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that flavourful, mushroom-laced guay deo lod. It is fantastic, after all.You’ll find Vegeta House about 50 metres down Ari Soi 1 on the right, buried knee deep in clothes and food stalls.

เวเจต้าเฮาส์ อารีย์ ซ.1

dim-sum featured

Noble House

Dim sum is this opulent restaurant's lunch speciality and the menu is a trendy development of the traditional with a fusion focus influenced by food from Shanghai. It is difficult not to be greedy when presented with the array of delicacies all directly from China. Scallops, seaweed and herb dishes – all beautifully presented – are a piece-derésistance in most restaurants; here they WHERE G Fl., Nai Lert are merely the equal of the other food on Park Bangkok, Wireless Rd offer. Apparently, the literal translation of (mapC3) BTS Ploenchit, 02dim sum from Cantonese means “order 253-0123 OPEN 11:30am to your heart’s content”. Executive chef - 2pm, Dinner 6:30pm Koongsoon and his team are taking that 10:30pm (Dim Sum buffet only notion seriously and the dim sum lunch lunch Mon – Fri) PRICE Dim is certainly worth a visit during your time Sum Buffet B485++ in Bangkok.

รร.นายเลิศปาร์ค ถ.วิทยุ

food & drinks

bangkok 101

B

runching is big in Bangkok. All five-star hotels and respectable cafés do them. Some are kid-friendly, others are strictly adult.You can get tipsy at some, while others focus on music. Curing a hangover? Need to eat al fresco? We offer you a sampling of Bangkok’s best.

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featured

KUPPA

brunch

Kuppa brought the first dose of café chic to Bangkok when it opened ten years ago, and it remains one of the capital’s great success stories.

There’s no dedicated brunch here, in terms of either buffet fare or a special menu, but it’s one of the liveliest Sunday lunch hangouts in town, packed with families of all nationalities.

The attraction is a well-designed, uncomplicated menu at reasonable prices and a smart but laid-back interior. The huge space has a large central wooden bar, blackboard menus, marble and wrought iron tables, paintings on brickwork walls and loads of light, diffused by Venetian blinds covering giant windows. It’s a design triumph that presses all the right buttons for the artsy middle-classes. They even have their own coffee roaster.

WHERE 19 Sukhumvit

The menu is divided into sections like Soi 16, 02-663-0495. BTS sandwiches, salads, pastas, Thai, pizzas, mains…

Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit with five to ten punter-friendly items in each.

OPEN Daily 10am-11pm, You might start with prawn and crab cakes, or closed last Monday of the a salad of Parma ham, chorizo and salami. month PRICE $$-$$$ Mains include grilled cod with kaffir lime on pea puree; crispy pork leg; or miso encrusted salmon on braised fennel, green tea noodle and nori, all at a mere B420.

Among desserts is the world’s lightest cheesecake (unofficial). Nothing’s outstanding, but everything’s good, and well worth these prices.

Kuppa proves it’s possible to have a successful restaurant that’s stylish and serves decent food at fair prices. It’s a very fine example of what Bangkok needs more of.

คัปป้า สุขุมวิท 16

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tea

F

or a break from the bustle of Bangkok, what could be more soothing than sipping a cuppa? Most upscale hotels and a growing number of stand-alone tea rooms serve afternoon tea. Some provide the traditional tray of sweets and savouries; others offer buffet or à la carte options for the hungry or the choosy. Mid-city or riverside, cosy or contemporary, whatever you choose, eat a light lunch or plan for a late dinner – these tea spreads are their own dose of decadence.

tea

featured

HIGH TEA

“What’s with the weather-beaten furniture?” you might ask on spotting the outdoor decking of this sliver-sized tea shop on Lang Suan Road. It’s a fair question but one that quickly evaporates on entering. Done out with brass telephones, Bianco Vermouth signs and other vintage curios, High Tea has a classy art deco atmosphere – a lovely change from the faux vintage look or sleek sterility of most Bangkok cafes. Sink into one of its leather sofas and pretend you’re in a continental café somewhere; leafy Lille perhaps or maybe a backstreet in Bruges. They don’t offer a tea-set, but the inventive can rustle one up by ordering off the tea menu and ordering in a sandwich or slice of delectable cake. These include the dark choc cake, a WHERE 45/4-8 Lang Suan Rd., sponge filled alive with oozing chocolate Lumpini BTS Chit Lom, 02goo and showered with white chocolate 254-5698 OPEN 11am – 1am shavings. For a cheesecake fix, consider PRICE $ the statuesque white choc, dribbled in naughty chocolate sauce, topped with an eye-popping cherry. Teas are served as they should be – loose leaf and in proper tea pots. For something different to the usual, try a more obscure concoction like green mint, love tea or the Courtisanes, a lyrical, palette perfuming blend of green tea, orange oil and yellow flower. They also do a scrummy, milky cha yen, or Thai style ice tea.

ไฮที หลังสวน

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High Teas ■ Café Gallery Unit 207, The Trendy Plaza, 10 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 13 | 086-5361275 | BTS Nana | www.the-cafegallery.com | daily 8am-9pm | $ ■ CHOCOLATE HIGH TEA IN A CLASSICAL KEY InterContinental Bangkok | 02656-0444 | daily 2:30pm-6pm | B390++ Mon-Fri, B450++ Sat&Sun ■ Diplomat Bar Conrad Bangkok, Wireless Rd. | 02-690-9999 | 2:30pm – 5:30pm | Single B410++, Couple B750++ ■ ERAWAN TEA ROOM Erawan Bangkok, 2nd Fl, 494 Ploenchit Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-250-7777 | Thai-style afternoon tea set daily, 2:30pm6pm | B220 net ■ Four Seasons Hotel Lobby 155 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Ratchdamri | 02-250-1000 | 650++ (Mon-Fri) | B750++ (SatSun)| daily 2pm-5pm ■ HOLIDAY INN SILOM Holiday Inn Silom Bangkok, Silom Rd | BTS Surasak | 02-238-4300 | 3pm – 6pm | B380++ ■ Light High Tea Banyan Tree Bangkok, Lobby Lounge | 02-679-1200 | daily 1pm-5pm, B350++ ■ THE PENINSULA 02-861-8888 | daily 2pm-6pm | tea sets B450++ ■ LE MERIDIEN AFTERNOON TEA Plaza Athénée Bangkok 61 Wireless Rd |02-650-8800 | daily 3pm-5pm | 550 nett/ 1 person, 680 nett/2persons ■ LOBBY SALON The Sukhothai | 02-344-8888 | Mon – Thu 2pm -6pm | B800++ ■ Zest Bar & Terrace 7th Fl. The Westin Grande Sukhumvit 259 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok MRT Sukhumvit | 02207-8000 | daily 2:30pm-5pm | B390++ to B695++

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■ Sukhumvit Gazebo Sukhumvit Soi 1 | 02-655-2475-6 | BTS Phloen Chit Global tapas until the wee hours.

Took Lae Dee Foodland Supermarkets Nana Branch | BTS Nana | Sukhumvit Soi 16 Branch | BTS Asok | open 24 hours Means “cheap and good” and it is for the most part. Round-the-clock diner serves Thai and Western food and is attached to a supermarket that never closes either.

Sunrise Tacos 236/3-4 Sukhumvit (btw Soi 12 and 14) | 02-229-4851 | BTS Asok | open 24 hours | www.sunrisetacos.com A little take-out joint serving Mexican fare and margaritas “by the yard” where you can get a super-sized halfkilo burrito. The presentation is a bit sloppy but by now, so are you.

Royal Kitchen 912/6 Soi Thong Lo (opp. Soi 25) | BTS Thong Lo | until 1am | 02-3919634| www.royalkitchengroup.com Congee, standard roast duck and BBQ pork along with a full Chinese menu.

■ Silom Eat Me Off Convent Rd In Pipat 2. | 02-238-0931 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Half restaurant, half art gallery with innovative Thai and Pacific Rim cuisine.

Coyote on Convent Sivadon Building | 1/2 Convent Rd | 02631-2325 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 1am Tex-Mex Fare with an endless list of margaritas.

Bug and Bee 18 Silom Rd. | 02-233-8118 | BTS Sala Daeng | open 24 hours | www.bugandbee.com Four storey café offers up Thai and fusion dishes like curried crab crêpes.

bangkok 101

Ramen Tei 23/8-9 Soi Thaniya | Silom Rd | 02-2348082 | BTS Sala Daeng | until 2am Ramen noodles in Soi Thaniya.

Good Evening Restaurant 1120 Narthiwas-Ratchanakarin Soi 17 | 02-286-4676 | BTS Chong Nonsi | until 1am | www.goodeveningbkk.com Stylish Thai cuisine ■ Lang Suan Ngwan Lee Corner of Soi Lang Suan & Soi Sarasin | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-0936 | Until 3am This Soi Lang Suan stalwart is popular with clubbers; and the humdrum décor doesn’t distract from the reason why: excellent Thai/Chinese fare.

■ Khao San Padthai Thipsamai 313 Mahachai Rd (near the Golden Mountain) | 02-221-6280 | open 5pm3am | www.thipsamai.com If you’re around Khao San log in to this hole in the wall considered by most to have the best pad thai in Bangkok. And oh yeah, it’s probably the only pad thai with a website.

late-night dining

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hais usually have dinner fairly early, on average around 6-7pm so visitors to Thailand may be surprised by the early closing times at restaurants which quite often take their last orders around 9:30-10pm.

So what do you do when you’ve just come out of that show or late-night movie? Or what if all that club-hopping has gotten your stomach growling?

No worries, as there’s food to be had at all corners at all times.

Obviously most hotels have 24hour restaurants, pub kitchens usually stay open till midnight (see Pub Crawling p.96) and certain areas are bustling all night (see Street Eats p.64). But with all due respect to the above we’ve come up with a list of excellent, independent establishments where you can settle in and tuck into a meal ‘round midnight and beyond.

Mayompuri 22 Chakraphong Rd | 02-629-3883 | until 1am | www.mayompuri.com Garden dining amidst colonial architecture has both Thai and Western dishes.

Tom Yum Kung 9 Trokmayom | Off Khao San Rd. towards Police Station (Look for the big sign) | 02-629-1818 | until 2am | www. tomyumkungkhaosan.com Reasonably priced Thai food.

Sunrise Tacos

The Old PraAthit Pier Restaurant 23 Phra Athit Rd | 02-282-9202 | until midnight Thai food on a wooden deck right beside the pier.

Silk Bar and Restaurant 129-131 Khao San Rd | 02-281-9981 | Food until 2am, Closes at 6am | Thai and International Food food & drinks

Bug and Bee

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Food&Drinks

sweet treats

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ookies, Cakes, Pies, oh my!

Thais surely love it sweet, taking every opportunity to lace their foods with sugar or syrup whether it is noodles or teas. Kids even drink sweetened milk! So it’s no surprise that almost everywhere you look there are bakeries or sweet shops selling sugary, creamy, crusty goodies for all. Of course with everything there’s good and bad. Though it’s hard to complain about desserts in general one has to keep in mind that not all are created equal. Rest assured the decadent little treats at these spots are surely from the upper crust.

desserts featured

Ohana Fresh Café

In a city renowned worldwide for being anything but peaceful, it’s a joy being able to stumble into a bite-sized establishment on one of Bangkok’s busiest sois and feel absolutely at ease. A self-dubbed “urban oasis”, this small café features a glass-encased deck area with a cozy brown interior highlighted by a large shady tree that lends to the cool and breezy atmosphere. There’s a small library out back full of cookbooks and travel literature from around the world for you to peruse as well.

Even though the majority of Bangkokians are still unable to wrap their palettes around any coffee drink that hasn’t been blitzed with ice and drenched in sugar, Ohana is doing its part to further Bangkok’s ever-developing coffee culture and features a handsome selection of beans from exotic destinations including Guatemala, Kenya, Columbia, Northern Thailand, and even Hawaii’s Kona coffee, which comes highly recommended and is served in all WHERE 50/4 Sukhumvit its glory out of a French press. As 24 BTS Phrom Phong, for dessert, the display window 02-661-1930, www.ohana. features a modest yet tempting co.th OPEN 9am – 9pm array of sweet treats like fudge PRICE $ brownies and lemon slices. The Mauna Loa, Ohana’s take on the ubiquitous molten Chocolate cake, named after the Hawaiian volcano, will remind you once again why every decent dessert shop features this utterly decadent pleasure as the rich and thick chocolate oozes its way into your mouth.

If you’re feeling extra indulgent, don’t hesitate to order some homemade waffles which come hot off the iron and are sumptuously served with plump strawberries and creamy vanilla ice cream. Though we couldn’t shovel any down on this visit, a quick glance at the freshly-baked ciabatta ensured that we’ll be back to sample their range of grilled Panini sandwiches.

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■ BAAN PRA ATIT COFFEE AND MORE 102/1 Pra Atit Rd | 02-2807878 | Sun-Thu 10am-9pm, Fri-Sat 10am-11pm ■ Cakewalk Natural Ville, 61 Langsuan Rd | 02-250-7050 | BTS Chitlom | daily 6am-10:30pm ■ CHERUBIN Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02-2609800 | BTS Asoke | Tue-Sun 10:30am-7pm ■ Coffee Bean by Dao 20/12-15, Soi Ruamrudee, Ploenchit Rd | 02-254-7117-9 | daily 10am-10pm ■ Iberry Siam Square Soi2 | 02-6583829 | daily Sun-Thur 10am10pm, Fri-Sat 10am-10:30pm ■ JIM THOMPSON’s HOUSE 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama I Rd | 02-612-3601 | BTS National Stadium | Tue-Sun 9am-6pm ■ Kakao Café 99/361-8 Sukhumvit soi 24 (opp. Camp Davis) | 02-6611777 | BTS Phrom Phong | daily 10 am-10pm ■ KUPPA 39 Sukhumvit Soi 16 | 02663-0495 | BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit | Tue-Sun 10:30am11:30pm ■ LE GOURMET 595/3-4 Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 | 02-258-5048 | BTS Phrompong | daily 9am-9pm ■ Mousses and Meringues 245 Sukhumvit Soi 31 | 02 662-1290 | BTS Phrompong | daily 10am-7pm ■ RUEN KHUN NOI 71 Sukhumvit Soi 4 | 02-2556049 | BTS Ploenchit | daily 10am-6pm ■ Saffron… just baked 86 Phra Athit Rd | 02-2814228 | daily 8am-9pm ■ Something sweet Sathorn 47/4 Soi Sathorn 8 Sathorn Nua, Silom | 02-235-4834 | BTS Chong Non Si | daily 10am-10pm ■ T42 4 Fl. Siam center Rama 1 Rd | 02-251-6197 | BTS Siam | daily 10am-9pm ■ THE ORIENTAL SHOP The Emporium, 5th Fl | 02664-8147~8 | BTS Phrom Phong | www.mandarinoriental. com | daily 10:30am-10pm ■ SEcret recipe La Villa, 1st Fl., Paholyothin Rd | BTS Aree, 02-613-0575 | www.secretrecipe.co.th | daily 10:30am-10pm

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Buffet Venues ■ TASTE Westin Grande Sukhumvit | 02-2078000 | 6am – 11pm | Breakfast B650++, Lunch 790++, Dinner B1,100++ ■ DINING ROOM Grand Hyatt Erawan | 02-254-1234 | Mon-Sat 12pm-2:30pm (3pm on Sat), Mon-Thu 6pm-10pm, Fri-Sun 6pm-10pm | lunch B780++, dinner Mon-Thu B1,150++, dinner Fri-Sun B1,499++ (seafood) ■ COLONNADE The Sukhothai 13/3 South Sathorn Rd | 02-344-8888 | noon-2.30pm | B980++ ■ ESPRESSO InterContinental Bangkok, Ploenchit Rd | 02-656-0444 | daily noon2:30pm, 6pm-10:30pm | B790++ (lunch) B990++ (dinner) ■ Panorama Restauarant Pan Pacific Bangkok | 02-632-9000 | 6:30am – 10:30am, 11:30am – 2:30pm | Breakfast 695 net, Lunch 690++ ■ No.43 BISTRO Cape House Serviced Apartment, Gr Fl, 43 Soi Langsuan| 02-6587444 ext.285 | daily 6am-midnight ■ Lord jim’s buffet Oriental Hotel Bangkok, Oriental Avenue | 02 - 659-9000 | Mon-Sat noon-3pm sun 11:30am-3pm | B1,295 net (Mon-Sat) B1,648 net (Sun) Booking advised. Smart casual dress code.

■ THE BRASSERIE Holiday Inn Silom, 981 Silom Rd | 02-238-4300 | daily noon-2:30pm and 6pm-10:30pm | lunch B707 net, dinner B824net, Friday Seafood Night B941net ■ Orchid Café Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit | 02649-8888 11:30am-2:30pm & 6:30pm10:30pm | Lunch 760++, Dinner (Mon-Thu) 1,050++, Dinner (Fri - Sun) 1,250++ ■ Citi Bistro Pathumwan Princess Hotel 1st Fl., near MBK | 02-216-3700 | 11:30am – 2:30pm, 6pm – 10pm | lunch B650net, dinner B1,300net

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angkok bites off way more than it can chew. We all know this is a great city for very high quality dining, but it’s also excellent for the gluttons among us, drawn to food in quantities. From street side moo krata joints that give you a sizzling skillet and let you loose on a pile of meat for less than B100, to the city’s ever-growing legion of fivestar hotels that offer up the utmost quality along with quantity, it’s a wonder how Thais stay in such good shape. Here is a sampling of Bangkok’s best eat-till-you-burst buffets.

all you can eat

featured

Oishi Grand Buffet

buffet

Shopping hot-spot Siam Square has snack-stops aplenty. But what if you don’t fancy jostling, uni-canteen atmospherics and those polite rumblings from your malnourished belly are fast becoming agitated growls? One possible solution is Oishi Grand, where a very reasonable B550 (or B660 at dinner time) buys you a culinary carte blanche – complete freedom to assault its Japanese buffet – and a very chic setting to enjoy it in. “Irrashaimase” (welcome) chirp the young waitstaff in trim black uniforms as you’re ferried into an upscale-Zen mix of sleek black marble, parquet flooring and chic dining tables. After that you’re pretty much on your own – no bad thing. The spread spans Japanese sushi, salads, tempura, a pasta bar, dim sum and a hundred and one things besides. Equipped with elegantly glazed plates, WHERE Siam Discovery and trays on which you can arrange several, Center 2 Fl. (mapC3) BTS this is the place to assemble that sashimi platter Siam, 02-658-0222-3 OPEN you’ve long dreamt of; or see how many akagai daily 11am-3pm, 4pm-10pm (Japanese blood cockles) you can stomach. Not PRICE lunch B647nett, all the food is excellent however. While the dinner B765 nett nigiri and maki sushi consistently hits the spot, our takoyaki (octopus balls) were dry, without the squishy succulence we expected. Juices are also a tad oversweet. However, average is not an adjective to be bandied about near the teppanyaki bar. Here you pile your plate up with, say, some New Zealand mussels, a mound of shiitake mushrooms, pop a numbered plastic pellet into a hole on the side of the plate and hand it over. A few minutes later there it is, sizzled to garlicky perfection, on your table. Yum.

สยามดิสคัฟเวอร์รี่เซ็นเตอร์ ถ.พระราม1

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Food&Drinks

wine

Siam Winery

featured

wıne bar

Opus

Tucked down a quiet soi connecting Silom and Sathorn Road, Opus is an Italian wine bar that oozes elegance, intimacy and good taste. Early evening groups of snappily-dressed businesspeople from the area’s hi-rise offices descend to chat over fine wine and share plates of mozzarella salad and pizza. Then, as the night wears on, the gently-lit bar area welcomes a sophisticated crowd of wine-lovers and trysting couples who commandeer corner tables. Like all good wine bars, Opus takes tremendous pride in its cellar, a glasswalled walk-in affair that is home to 400 almost exclusively Italian labels. Nestled in amongst the WHERE 64 Pan Road showpiece Sassicaias and such are bottles (Soi Wat Kaek), Silom, that offer great value, like a Livio Felluga 02-637-9899 BTS pinot grigio at B2,200 and a 2003 Barolo at Surasak OPEN 5:30pm less than B4,000. Opus pus also offers half - midnight (closed Sun) a dozen wines by the glass. The food menu is comparatively compact but elegant, with contemporary Italian fare designed for picking at through the course of an evening. We enjoyed a wonderful carpaccio of salmon drizzled with a subtly tangy pink peppercorn and orange sauce and an exquisitely tender Australian tenderloin steak served with balsamic and shards of parmesan.

โอพุส ถ.ปั้น สีลม

More Bangkok Wine Bars ■ BAR @ 494 Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok, 494 Ratchadamri Rd | BTS Chit Lom | 02-2541234 ■ BACCHUS 20/6-7 Ruam Rudee, Ploenchit | BTS Ploenchit | 02-650-8986 ■ club nove La Villa Restaurant, 131 Thong Lo Soi 9 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-712-9991 ■ GLASS @ GIUSTO

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16 Sukhumvit 23 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2584321, 02-258-1159 ■ OPUS 64 Pan Road, Soi Wat Kaek, Silom | BTS Surasak | 02637-9899 ■ VINO DI ZANOTTI 41 Soi Yommarat, Sala Daeng Rd | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-636-0855 ■ WINE BRIDGE PLUS 99/15-16 Langsuan Balcony, Langsuan soi 6-7 | BTS Chit

Lom, 02-251-2187 ■ WINE LOFT Sukhumvit 31 (Soi Sawasdee) | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-260-0027 ■ WINE & ME Sukhumvit Rd btw Soi 51&53 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-662-7605 ■ WINE PUB Pullman Bangkok King Power Hotel | BTS Victory Monument | 02-680-9999

food & drinks

‘New Latitude’ Thai wine Thai cuisine is considered one of the world’s best, and deservedly so – fresh ingredients, complex flavours, and tangy, tongue-teasing dishes. One thing gourmets rarely expect to drink over a Thai meal is wine, for fear that the food’s piquancy would overpower any subtle flavours. But in recent years several Thai vineyards have sprung up; and they are fast beginning to make their mark in a market dominated, as one would expect, by the usual array of old and new world wines. Thai-made “New Latitude Wines” are mostly blended from grape varieties like Shiraz, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a tendency towards light to medium-bodied dry wines, which balance well with the richness of spicy Thai dishes. Several Thai wineries are within easy driving distance of Bangkok – around two hours away. Head for Hua Hin, or the favourable altitude, rich soil and microclimate around Khao Yai National Park. Learn more at: www.thaiwine.org bangkok 101

A taste of New Orleans...

Bourbon St. Restaurant & Oyster Bar BOURBON ST. EVERYDAY SPECIALS Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday & Sunday

Boutique Hotel available daily, weekly or monthly 29/4-10 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (Behind SportsMan Bar) Tel: 02-259-0328/9, 02-259-4317 Fax: 02-259-4318 Email: info@bourbonstbkk.com www.bourbonstbkk.com

All you can eat “Red Beans & Rice” with salad & garlic bread 200 Baht ++ Only at night 6pm-10pm All you can eat Mexican Buffet 295 Baht ++ Buy one get - one free “Boiled Shrimp” Buy one, get one free, any kind of imported U.S. fresh oysters Buy one get one free “Seafood Pasta” 200 Baht ++ Children under 12 eat free (1 child with 1 adult and order 1 main course will get a free portion for child as follow) n Hamburger n Hot Dog n Popcorn Shrimp n Fried Shrimp n Spaghetti n Chicken Nuggets n Fried Chicken n Fried Mozzarella Cheese Sticks n Taco n Fish and Chips

“Christmas Buffet”

24th December 2009 from 17.30 – 22.00 25th December 2009 from 12.00 – 22.00 899 Baht++ Per Adult 450 Baht++ Per Child under 12 years Free for child under 5 years.

* Includes Coke, Sprite, Diet Coke, Bottled water and Ice Tea *

Nightlife

one night in bangkok

Q Bar

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angkok’s vibrant nightlife offers an almost infinite Cowboy (btw sois 21 & 23). And voguish but affordable amount of options – so much more than just the hotspots (all tall tables, live hip-hop and whisky-sippin’ naughty male’s One Night in Bangkok wet dream. urban youth) abound in the hot-to-trot sois of Thong A night out here can easily have you flitting between Lor and Ekamai (sois 55 & 63).

Northeast of the Sukhumvit conventional, cutting-edge and downright surreal, and usually in “Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major area, Royal City Avenue – or thoroughfare and its myriad RCA (p.95) – features a malla matter of steps, or, failing that, a short taxi ride. It’s little wonder that adjoining sois, hosts many of strip of megaclubs where hordes of young, flir ty Thais congregate, Bangkok pulls in so many revellers the city’s best nightspots.” especially on weekends. Other from across the city – and beyond.

Glitzy bars and cocktail lounges attract the well-heeled notable hot spots include Bang Lamphu, the hedonistic and fabulous for slick drinks and smart design. Innovative backpacker hub that is legendary Khao San Road (p.94), nightclubs thrill international clubbers with rave-scene/ and the bohemian café/bar scene on Phra Athit Road. hip-hop culture sounds. Folksy jazz, blues and rock venues The Chao Phraya River has yet to live up to its please live music fans. Alternatively, sports junkies and the true potential as a nightlife centre. However, many of homesick have pubs… heaps of them, many as welcoming the city’s top hotels (The Oriental, Peninsula, Shangri-La, and well-stocked as your local boozer. Want to party till Millennium Hilton & Royal Orchid Sheraton) offer fivesunrise or thereabouts? Despite party-pooping official star cocktails, riverside. Alternatively, for bird’s-eye views closing hours (most venues must shut between 1-2am), of the river and high-altitude cocktails, turn to p.86. On and as long as you’re cool with doing it in a louche back- the following pages we list the cream of the crop – from lounges to live music venues, wine bars to nightclubs – street style, you can.

The lively Silom/Sathorn commercial district is a to help you achieve that perfect night out. throbbing nightlife centre. From Irish-themed pubs to Patpong’s glaring go-go scene, right through to pumping DJs and bars-in-the-sky (p.86), there’s something for all.

Nightlife Nous The city’s gay scene is also busiest here, with the pink flag Want the scoop on Bangkok’s notoriously under-theflying proudest around Silom sois 2 & 4, and the sleazier radar nightlife scene? Keep your eye on these websites Surawong Road. and before long you’ll be tipping off the locals.

Sukhumvit, Bangkok’s major thoroughfare, and its n www.bangkokgigguide.com – jazz, rock, reggae… myriad adjoining sois host many of the city’s flashest all the live music bases are covered in comprehensive, (and debauched) nightspots. On Soi 11, Q Bar and Bed night-by-night detail here.

Supperclub (p.84) lead the way in international-style n www.lastnightinbangkok.com – club scene listings & nightlife. The more degenerate side of Bangkok nightlife post-party galleries. shines in Sukhumvit’s two adults-only streetscapes – n www.bangkokrecorder.com – their gossipy forum is Nana Plaza (off Soi 4), and the more carnivalesque Soi where news of upcoming DJ fly-ins often breaks.

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Nightlife

808

nightclubs

Bed Supperclub Image by Marcus Gortz

Clubbing in Bangkok? Stand-alone clubs are required by law to close at 1am, though many manage to stay open later; officially hotel nightclubs can stay open until 2am.

The legal drinking age is 20. All patrons must carry proof. No ID, no entry. No joke. And as of late, smoking inside bars is a no-no.

Bed Supperclub

BED SUPPERCLUB (map D3) 26 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02651-3537 | www.bedsupperclub.com | nightly 7:30pm-1am ‘Bed,’ with its über-modern elliptical spaceship design, is a successful hybrid: fine dining on what may be the world’s largest sofas on one side, and an adjoining bar on the other. For the past seven years, Bed has attracted a fashionable crowd, and with its à-la-page white interior, is definitely a place to see and be seen. The food is world-class on the cosy restaurant side, and the sleek design extends to an all-white bar on the club side, where bartenders blend cocktails using everything from local herbs to cutting-edge foams and sorbets. Bed has talented resident DJs and brings over topclass world talent (including some very eclectic art) for special events. Tuesday’s hip-hop party Pop Champagne packs ‘em in while Wednesday’s Model Night throbs with Latin house music. Big-room house and mash-up hip-hop rules on Friday, and Sunday mixes 80’s pop hits with house music.

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Q BAR (map D3) 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-2523274 | www.qbarbangkok.com | 8pm-1am Long-standing, New York-style night spot Q Bar is well-known for pouring stiff drinks (there are over 70 varieties of topshelf vodka!) and its strong music policy, with international DJs leading the way. Q Bar raised the ‘bar’ for Bangkok nightlife nine years ago and is still going strong, with a flirty crowd every night and many big name guest DJs. Best nights: Sunday’s Gin & Juice hip-hop party, Wednesday’s Block Party with hip-hop & funk classics (ladies enter free), and Friday’s Houseduction.

Upstairs at Q a chic, remarkably different vibe resounds in the bar/lounge, especially on Mondays when jazz music rules the speaker system (and the downstairs dancefloor takes a rest). Some relative solitude and a choice pick ‘n’ mix of the expat and jetset scene can usually be found here and on the outdoor terrace, perfect for a breather, people watching and a late evening snack (including tasty meat wraps from a shawarma station).

คิว บาร์ ถ.สุขุมวิท ซ. 11

TAPAS (map C4) Silom Soi 4 | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom | 02-632-7982 | 8pm-2am On the groovy little enclave of Silom Soi 4,Tapas is a party institution and one of the few mixed hang-outs on a heavily gay strip of lively bars and clubs. For more than 10 years it’s been pumping out excellent house music and live, bongo-bangin’ percussion sets as well. Multilevelled, with a dark, Moroccan feel, it’s easy to chill here, whether lounging or dancing your tail off! Like Soi 4 in general, weeknights can be hit-ormiss, but weekends are always hopping . ทาปาส สีลม ซ.4 nightlife

808 (map D3) RCA, block C | 02-203-1043 | MRT Pra ram 9 | www.808bangkok.com | 9am-late This slick nightclub – all imposing red lighting, exposed brick and steelcladding – has been a hit with clubbers ever since it landed on RCA in 2007.

The reason: the consistently worldclass line-up. Grandmaster Flash, James Lavelle and Derrick May to name but a few global DJ giants, have all rocked this post-industrial warehouse, aided in no small part by the ear-drum/body/ table rattling sound-system (watch that drink dance!). Head up to the balcony for a comfy leather perch, or gyrate with the diehards on the dancefloor.

Entrance prices vary depending on who is gracing the decks that night.

เอท โอ เอท อาร์ซีเอ บลอกซี

CLUB CULTURE (map C3) Sri Ayutthaya Rd (opp. Siam City Hotel) | BTS Phaya Thai | 08-9497-8422 | www.club-culture-bkk.com | Tue-Sun 8pm-2am | B400 (incl. 2 drinks) This modish 1,000-capacity club attracts a cross-cultural mix of trendy Thais and expats and the diversity is mirrored in the music policy. They promote new talent, while also bringing in the big guns, ensuring an eclectic roster of breakbeat, electronica, trance, indie rock, drum ‘n’ bass and house music. Climb carpeted steps, pass through a curtained stairwell and you’ll enter a space where chandeliers and Thai wood carvings hang from the ceiling. Strategically placed structures, great for resting an elbow or a drink, dot the open-plan dance floor, surrounded by plush sofas and stools. It’s a beautiful building but the toilets lack a little finesse.

คลับ คัลเจอร์ ถ. ศรีอยุธยา

bangkok 101

Nightlife

bars with a view

Fed up with Bangkok’s fume-filled streets? Fancy a breather? Take to the skies. Bangkok offers a clutch of dramatic high-altitude bars (both indoor and outdoor) from where to survey the glittering skyline below.

Threesixty

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am A beacon over Bangkok’s night sky is ablaze. Picture a gorgeously moody, sexy place with world-class jazz, awesome cocktails and hear t-stopping views. Sprinkle this with the fact that you’ll be par t of the international trendsetter scene just because you’ve managed to cross the Chao Phraya.

Sound inviting? Head over to the Millennium Hilton and take the glass elevator to the 32nd floor. Up in a glassed-in, UFO-like construction 130 metres high, Three Sixty perfects a circle. Soft couches and smooth cocktails enhance a dizzying view: Bangkok’s downtown and a row of riverside hotels spread out in front of you. Good thing this place doesn’t revolve. It’s a grown-up crowd which values Osetra on blinis with their drinks. Pure Post-Millennium Magic. And do check out the hotel lobby.

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รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน ถ. เจริญนคร

Red Sky (map C3) Centara Grand Hotel, Rama 1 Road | BTS Chid Lom/Siam | 02-100-1234 | www.centarahotelresorts.com | 5pm – 1am Hi-octane views, svelte Martinis, rattan loungers to enjoy them on. Ironically, the only thing you won’t be seeing at Centara Grande’s chicly lit al fresco bar is red. When not gasping at the city flickering like a circuit-board beneath you, let yourself be entertained by the boomerang-like edifice changing colour above the translucent bar; or stargaze into the fibre optic solar system embedded in the curving, wood-panel wall. Sip a bottle from their space-age wine cellar, or a well-mixed cocktail; they shake everything from Ying Yangs to classic Caipirinhas. Fifty five floors below, it’s all car horns and consumer frenzy, but up here, glass in hand, live jazz wafting through the ether, not even a gust of wind can upset the cosmic balance – glass barriers mean there are, virtually, none.

รร.เซ็นทารา แกรนด์ เซ็นทรัล เวิลด์ nightlife

Long Table (map D3) 48 Column Bldg, Sukhumvit Soi 16 | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-3022557-9 | www.longtablebangkok.com | 11am-2am Top-end Thai food isn’t the only thing drawing Bangkok’s in-crowd to this impossibly swish restaurant-cum-bar in droves. There’s also the trendsetting twist: a sleek communal dining table so long it makes a medieval banquet bench look positively petite.

However, it’s what happens at the end of the room that propels this place deep into the nightlife stratosphere.

Where the long table ends, a tall plate glass window and huge poolside patio, complete with bar, begins. Out here, 25 floors up, you can glug signature “long-tail” cocktails or fine wines with the best of high-flying Bangkok: a glitzy hotchpotch of celebrities, models and power players; hair-tousling breezes; and – best of all – widescreen city vistas. A Sukhumvit high point.

อาคารคอลัมน์ สุขุมวิท ซ.16

SKY BAR / DISTIL (map B3-4) State Tower, 1055 Silom Rd | 02624-9555 | www.thedomebkk.com | 6pm-1am High fliers hankering after a taste for the dramatic can head over to The Dome at State Tower. Among the world’s highest outdoor bars, Skybar – attached to Med restaurant Sirocco – offers panoramic views of the city and river below, earning its popularity with visitors new to the City of Angels and those intent on rediscovering it. Indoor-outdoor Distil boasts a roomful of comfy sofas, beyond-premium liquor and The Dome’s signature breathtaking view.

These places are definately not spots for the casual beach bum; so be sure to leave your flip-flops and shopping bags at home – a strict smart-casual dress code is enforced.

สเตททาวเวอร์ ถ. สีลม

bangkok 101

V9 (map C4) 37F Sofitel Silom Hotel | 188 Silom Rd BTS Chong Nonsi | 02-238-1991 | 6pm-2am Smart V9 is a funky space, one-third comfy bar, one-third slick restaurant, one-third huge wine retail shop. Oenophiles undergo orgiastic experiences once they walk past the dozens of wine crates lining the entrance. All of the wines can be bought at supermarket prices and consumed on the premises with no corkage fee.The in-house Sommelier’s pairings are exquisite, with 15 house wines to tempt you by the glass or short carafe.The French food served up is faultless (try their snack trees), as are the cocktails – dozens of signature blends in a long menu. It’s all very Sex and The City, especially on Friday & Saturday nights.The music is good, and the view through the floor-to-ceiling glass walls wrapping V9 is heart-stopping – that’s what really counts. Perfect for those rainy nights.

รร. โซฟิเทลสีลม ถ. สีลม

MOON BAR (map C4) 61F Banyan Tree Hotel | 21/100 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-1200 | www.banyantree.com | 5pm-1am As the name suggests, this is one place that will get you closer to the moon.

The open-air bar lets you take in the urban Moloch from up-above in smart surroundings. Banyan Tree’s Moon Bar is a romantic hideaway. With stunning 360˚ views, the hotel’s rooftop has been turned into a slick grill restaurant; one end is occupied by the bar. Nothing obstructs your view here, almost 200 metres high up. It’s the perfect spot for honeymooners – take a seat on the smart sofa stations, sip on a classy Martini or a yummy signature cocktail and feel romance welling up.

For voyeurs, the telescopes and binoculars come in handy. Glamour girls and unwinding business guys feel right at home here, too. Stay until the wee hours, nibble on sophisticated snacks, take in the light jazz – and never ever forget your camera.

รร. บันยันทรี ถ. สาทร

bangkok 101

Amorosa

THE ROOF TOP (map C3) 83F Baiyoke Sky Hotel | 222 Rajaprarop Rd | 02-656-3000 | www.baiyokehotel.com | 10am – 1:30am | B200 Perched above it all, the view is the best and seemingly only draw at this ageing and very campy sky-high watering hole. Step off the elevator and it’s like you’ve been transported to outer space. That is if outer space had tuttifrutti coloured walls. Passable cocktails and the loungy live cover band won’t distract you from what really makes this place really wor th visiting: the sprawling metropolis below. For fullscreen Bangkok, take the stairs, pass the kitschy solar system murals and extra-terrestrials (yes, seriously) up to the 84th floor and let the wind hit you in the face on the open-air revolving deck and try to spot the now ant-sized malls you were in earlier.

รร.ใบหยกสกาย ถ.ราชปรารภ

AMOROSA (map A3) Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Young, Maharat Road (near Wat Po temple) | 02-221-9158 | www.arunresidence.com | 6pm-1am Balmy breezes, soft Latin Jazz, sour-sweet cocktails and passable wine list: all the ingredients for an agreeable open-air bar are in place at the Mediterraneanish Amorosa.The show-stopper though is the view: perched on the roof of a four-storey boutique hotel, it overlooks the weaving Chao Phraya River and Wat Arun, the stunning Temple of Dawn. Go before sundown and gaze out as the sun disappears behind it.

Or come later, when spotlights make it glow amber against the night sky. Wat Po is just around the corner, so a tipple here is an easily attainable – and fitting – reward after a day of temple hopping.

And if you fall for the view, the hotel’s restaurant,The Deck, and 6 lovely suites mean you can prolong the love affair.

อรุณเรสสิเดนซ์ ซ.ประตูนกยูง ถ.มหาราช

nightlife

87

Nightlife

hotel bars

Barsu

Bamboo Chic (map C4) Le Meridien Bangkok 4F, 40/5 Surawong Rd | 02-232-8888 | BTS Sala Daeng | www.lemeridienhotelbangkok.com | 6pm-1am Dim-tones and giant chandeliers set the tone for haute Sino-Nippon cuisine at Bamboo Chic: Le Meridien hotel’s dashing designer resto-bar. But Bangkok’s jetset have also taken a shine to what’s being served over at the arresting limeflorescent bar – innovative cocktails like the Kyoto martini: a delectable blend of dry gin, midori, dry vermouth and lemon juice, served in a fishbowl glass.

High-wattage smiles and slick service rounds off this voguish venue, as apt for post-work or pre-dancefloor tipples as it is a swanky dinner. Just steel yourself for a blast of cognitive dissonance on arrival… Patpong, the neon sleazepit cum night market, is Bamboo Chic’s unscrupulous neighbour.

รร.เลอ เมอริเดียน กรุงเทพ ถ.สุรวงศ์

88

BARSU (map D3) Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-649-8358 | www.barsubangkok.com | 6pm-2am The informal yet sleek and minimally styled BarSu features the tagline “eat, play, dance,” and appeals to the over-30 Bangkok crowd who feel disenfranchised by the city’s current nightlife offerings.To this end, house, hip hop and techno are banned; inhouse DJs spin soul, funk, rock, vintage 70s, 80s and world music. An audacious dining concept features a menu of sophisticated bar snacks created by a Belgian two-star Michelin chef. In all fairness, calling this premium fare “bar snacks” is doing it a disservice: it’s finger food designed to be shared – sushi, sashimi, tapas and “wapas” (world tapas) – although not finger food as you know it. Ladies get a free standard drink on Wednesdays and the chance to win a bottle of Baileys.

รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14 nightlife

Zuk Bar (map C4) The Sukhothai, South Sathorn Rd | MRT Lumpini | 02-344-8888 | MonSat 5pm-1am, Sun noon- midnight Guests and clued-up city enjoy zesty cocktails, creative canapés and an air of ultra-sophisticated tranquillity at this classy hotel bar. Drinks are on a par with the rooftop bars (in price and panache), but here you’re paying for the understated exoticism of it all: the sultry look, mood and service. The barely lit interior, with its dim nooks and raw silk couches, is perfect for heart-to-hearts.The underlit outdoors area, flanked by huge oriental jars and cooled by overhead fans, a sociable spot where a ring of plump divan sofas invite you to plant your posterior.

Quietly solicitous lady staff clad in silk serve while a DJ from Tues to Sat spins soulful tunes.

รร.สุโขทัย ถ.สาทรใต้

bangkok 101

u

CAFÉ TRIO (map C3) 36/11-12 Soi Lang Suan | 02-2526572 | BTS Chit Lom | daily 6pm-1am, closed on the 2nd and 4th Sundays Tucked into a narrow alley off Soi Lang Suan, this cozy jazz bar & art gallery is a welcome alternative to Bangkok’s raucous pubs and haughty lounge bars.

Café Trio is overflowing with plush couches, the lighting is delightfully soft, and the music is always subdued. The tranquil atmosphere helps to make it a true neighbourhood place. The vivacious owner and bartender Patti holds court nightly and the walls are plastered with her Modigliani-esque, Vietnamese-inspired paintings – have a few drinks and don’t be surprised to find yourself taking one home.

Resident regulars come for live jazz (often toward the end of the month).

For drinks, expect to pay what you would at better known, yet more generic, venues.The service is laid-back, like the bar in general. To find it, look for the Chinese restaurant across from Starbucks and 50m down the road.

คาเฟ่ทริโอ ซ.หลังสวน

RAIN DOGS (map C4) 16 Soi Phraya Phiren, Rama 4 Rd | 081-720-6989 (Jum), 087-055-9407 (Cartoon) | 9pm till late Though rain dogs are mutts who lose the scent of home in the rain, it’s the humans who forget where home is after frequenting this grungy townhouse bar, where half the pleasure is in finding it in the first place. Hidden in the shadow of an expressway, it’s a go-to for Thai indie kids and journoartsy expats looking for inexpensive booze in bohemian surrounds, especially once other bars have kicked them out. Plonk yourself in one of the living room’s scuzzy sofas and enjoy one of the left-of-centre “happenings” – be it DJ party, live band, modern art documentary or one of your mates selecting tunes off their iPod. Or head out for some pseudo-intellectual conversation in the tatty garden.

The vibe swings pleasantly between raucous and chilled depending on bangkok 101

boho bars

what’s on and who rocks up. Join their Facebook group for the skinny and the much needed map.

เรนด๊อกส์ ซ.พระยาพิเรนทร์

CHEAP CHARLIE’S (map D3) Sukhumvit Soi 11 | 02-253-4648 | Mon-Sat 5pm-12:30am This shabby open-air streetside joint is a real Bangkok institution, bringing the charm of a rickety island hole-inthe-wall bar to one of Sukhumvit’s swankiest sois. A no-brainer meet-up spot, Cheap Charlie’s draws crowds of expats, NGOers and tourists inthe-know to fill up on B60 beers and pocket-change G&Ts before heading off to eat and party – though don’t be surprised if you end up here all night. CC’s is the kind of place where it’s easy to fall into conversation with other patrons; whether it’s because you’re sheltering from a rain shower together or end up sharing one of the few tables. Its location is a winner, situated as it is on a cool little subsoi (first on the left as you walk down from Sukhumvit) packed with restaurants and a short walk from hallowed Bangkok gin-palaces Q Bar and Bed Supperclub.

ชีพ ชาร์ลีย์ ถ.สุขุมวิท 11 (ซอยแรก)

WONG’S PLACE (map C4) 27/3 Soi Sri Bumphen/Soi Ngam Duplee, near Malaysia Hotel | 02286-1558 | MRT Lumpini | Mon – Sat 10pm till late It’s amazing how Wong’s Place stays in business. It’s not near any public transport; opens when it wants, closes when it wants; plays crackly videos from Top of the Pops in 1985; has a couple of serve-yourself beer fridges and is not much bigger than a living room. Put it this way: if you’re looking for a chocolate Martini and a plate of tapas, you’re in the wrong place. Yet it attracts a fiercely loyal crowd of expat journalists, English teachers and professional barflies who have been coming here for years and regard owner Sam as a kind of benevolent dictator, knowing better than to take nightlife

Lollipop

advantage of the beer-fridges honour system. Come before midnight and it’s pretty dead (the Wong’s Place at the wong time?). Come after the other bars close - Raindogs is nearby, and it’s a mere hop skip and a jump from Silom - and watch the night unfold.

วองส์ เพลส ซ.งามดูพลี

LOLLIPOP (map A3) 1 Mahannop Soi 1, Mahannop Road, Pra Nakorn | 08-6339-1390 | Tue-Sun 5pm-1am This old wooden house in indie town Phranakorn – formerly rockpub Lullibar – looks like it has been ripped from a Tim Burton fantasy.

Lime green walls, fiery red couches, old cameras and hippie bead curtains are only some of the whimsical new touches old fans welcome. The house bands now have a performing area where they can strum away without knocking drinks off the tables. And the previously neglected parts, namely the patio and the “garden” outside, have also been renovated to accommodate the Vespa driving hipster Thais who come here, not only for the live and jukebox indie tunes but also pub grub ranging from kap klaem (beer snacks) to seafood. One bad thing: Lollipop is hidden deep within the relatively unknown Soi Mahannop. But then again, if you’re cool enough to frequent a place like Lollipop, you’re cool enough to hang with the people who can get you there.

โลลี่ป๊อป มหรรณพ ซ.1

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Nightlife

jazz clubs

THE LIVING ROOM (map D3) Sheraton Grande, 250 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok, MRT Sukhumvit | 02-6498888 | www.sheratongrandesukhumvit. com | 10am- 12:30am Perhaps the cosiest of all Bangkok’s luxury hotel bars, the leather couches at The Living Room are so snug it’ll be hard to get up again once you’re seated. It’s a stylish place, and the usually middle-aged patrons live it up on great wines, champagne and strong cocktails in a quiet way. The high-ceilinged foyer offers perfect acoustics for the fabulous jazz band.

Be prepared to be well-entertained.

World-class talents are booked in continuously, guaranteeing top-notch jazz and always a warm audience rapport. Currently The Living Room plays host to Trio Live, performing every Tuesday jazz clubs through Thursday nights from 9pm to 11:45pm, plus Friday and Saturday nights from 9:30pm to 12:15am.

You can also catch them during the Sheraton Grande’s legendary Sunday Jazzy Brunch. รร.เชอราตัน แกรนด์ สุขุมวิท

Niu’s on Silom

BAMBOO BAR (map B4) Mandarin Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave | 02-659-9000 | www.mandarinoriental.com | Sun-Thu 11am-1am, Fri-Sat 11am-2am This Bangkok landmark is a symbol of past glories of the East. Situated in the city’s most fabled hotel, the 50-year-old bar oozes class, sophistication and style.

Reminiscent of a tropical film noir-setting, it features a jungle theme – bamboo, palm fronds and furry patterns. Small and busy, it’s nevertheless romantic and intimate – balanced by the legendary Russian jazz band that’s been on the stage here for ages. Monday through Saturday nights catch the sultry sounds of their current resident. Everybody’s sipping on faultless cocktails, mixed by skilled old-school bartenders and served by a superb staff. A definite big Bangkok must. รร.โอเรียนเต็ล ถ.โอเรียนเต็ล 90

ระหว่างสุขุมวิท 12 และ 14

Niu’s on Silom (mapC4) F1-2, 661 Silom Rd | 02-266-5333 | www.niusonsilom.com | 5pm-1am This New York-style wine bar – with its hot jazz, old leather armchairs and roses on candlelit tables – has a house band with some of Bangkok’s better local talent. They provide the backbone for international guest vocalists, and trumpeter Steve Lowry and guitarist Dan Phillips, who rotate nightly. There’s also a jazz jam every Sunday and occasional concerts featuring overseas visitors. Niu’s is a class act, but still casual, comfortable for beers or brandy; and you can eat bar snacks or dine formally in the impressive Concerto Italian restaurant upstairs. Outside seating also available. นิวส์ ออน สีลม

บ้านสีลม

Bamboo Bar

nightlife

bangkok 101

DIPLOMAT BAR (map C3) Conrad Bangkok, 87 Witthayu Rd | BTS Ploen Chit | 02-690-9999 | www.conradbangkok.com | Sun-Thu 6pm-1am, Fri-Sat 6pm-2am An architecturally striking hotel bar, mixing a funky, stylish décor with soft teak sofas and an arresting chandelier hanging over the massive round bar.

Bronze silks and wood dominate this dark, contemporary, but always relaxed place. A boozy, high-profile crowd fills the Diplomat Bar nightly, especially during the elongated, buyone-get-one-free Happy Hour from 4-7pm (standard drinks only). Very hip among the diplomatic corps (Witthayu is stuffed with embassies), trendy guys in suits and glitzy society ladies – ideal for people-ogling. But the main attraction here is more aural than visual and exceptional jazz acts are de rigueur. รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

JAZZ GALLERY (map A3) 2 nd floor (beneath Gazebo Bar), 44 Chakrapong Rd, (just off Khao San Road | 02-629-5821~2 | 6pm1am The only thing “Khao San” about this standalone jazz lounge with a soft, elegant glow is its location, just off the raucous backpacker strip. Offering comfy armchairs on one side and casually riffing local jazz bands on the other, parquet floors, candlelight and discreet service, the Jazz Gallery is the most sophisticated venue to grace the area yet. And a great place to escape its moronic-music-loving masses.Think highbrow wine-bar for chardonnay-sipping Coltrane-lovers.

In addition to some of Thailand’s best jazz divas and ensembles, there’s a recessed art gallery, a smoking balcony (cigars available) and a wine cellar offering the best plonk in the neighbourhood. Mmmm, suave and smooth. แจ๊สแกลอรี่ ถ.จักรพงษ์

THREESIXTY (map B4) 32F Millennium Hilton Hotel |123 Charoennakorn Rd | BTS Saphan Taksin | 02-442-2000 | 5pm-1am Dizzying 32nd floor views across the Chao Phraya. Bangkok’s downtown flickering in front of you. Well wor th crossing the river for, Threesixty is Bangkok’s most jaw-dropping jazz venue.

Since August its dressy crowd has been soaking up that cameragrabbing panoramic alongside the sounds of new South Carolinian resident LaDee Streeter. Her sultr y renditions – spanning jazz to bossa nova to RnB – make this glassed in, flying saucer-like construction seem gorgeously moody. And the wan blue lounge lights, soft couches and smooth cocktails help.

Requests are welcomed. รร.มิลเลเนี่ยม ฮิลตัน

ถ.เจริญนคร

Niu’s 1st International Bangkok Jazz Festival

Some of the world’s top jazz players will be at Niu’s 1st International Bangkok Jazz Festival on December 11 and 12, with four acts appearing each night. The event opens appropriately with Thailand’s own superstar jazzman, Koh Mr Saxman and his band, who will set the scene in the European style piazza next to Niu’s on Silom jazz club. The open-air venue will be carpeted for the shows and have around 400 seats in the tree-lined garden. It should be a classy and romantic setting under the cool season stars.

The first night headliners are sax player James Carter and his trio, from the US. Carter played Niu’s earlier in the year, and gave a molten performance that showed just why the Los Angeles Times calls him “The Jimi Hendrix of the saxophone”. The main support comes from the Gwylim Simcock Trio, whose pianist leader is a rising star, already compared with Keith Jarrett, and considered “a creative genius” by Chick Corea.

The second night starts with the Francois Lindemann band, including trail blazing Thai sax player Tewan Sapsangyakorn, who will play a set with multi ethnic influences. The two headline acts are top-of-the-tree sax player Chris Potter – a sideman with Herbie Hancock and John Scofield, as well as a writer of his own terrific albums – and the African funk jazz of Richard Bona, a bass player-vocalist with Pat Metheny, Michael Brecker and many others. This will be hot.

Tickets (B3,500/one night and B6,000/two nights) are available from Thai Ticketmajor (02262-3456, www.thaiticketmajor.com). For the full line-up see www.niusonsilom.com. bangkok 101

nightlife

91

Nightlife

live music BROWN SUGAR (map C4) 231/20 Sarasin Rd | BTS Ratchadamri | 02-250-1826 | Mon-Sat 11am-1am, Sun 5pm-1am Sarasin Road, bordering Lumphini Park, hosts a strip of teeming bars.

The best one is definitely this longstanding, smoky jazz club. The joint evokes a jazz haunt of yester year with dark woods, tight benches and a tiny stage. Newsweek called it ‘Asia’s Number One Spot’ and to prove the point, it’s packed every night. If you care for seats, arrive early, before the brilliant band star ts at 9pm. You can have some decent pub grub, but it’s pricier than one might assume from the look of the haunt – same goes for the strong drinks. Sunday nights are the best – it’s the night off for most hotel bar singers, who all congregate here to let their hair down and jam with local pros.

บราวน์ ชูการ์ ถ. สารสิน

TITANIUM ICE BAR (map D4) Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Phrom Pong | 02-258-3758 | www.titanium-club.com | 6pm-1:30am Well folks, and now for something different. Picture this: congenial hostesses clad in Bangkok-Zeitgeist ao dai. A gifted all girl rock ‘n’ roll band, Unicorn, jamming six nights a week (with two male bands filling in for them on Sundays). Bangkok’s widest selection of vodka – 70 varieties to choose from. An intimate atmosphere, especially in The Vodka Room, chilled to a nippleraising minus 10 degrees. Not exactly a place to bring Mum, but a fun night out on the slightly wild side.

time-capsule. Raintree hosts musicians playing Pleng Peua Chiwit (Songs for Life), the once phenomenally popular 1970s folk-protest music and soundtrack for Thailand’s politically disaffected. On a stage decorated with the movement’s trademark buffalo skulls, two artists strum nightly: a long-haired singer croons plaintive songs at 8:30pm, a grizzled band steps up at around 11pm. Owner Porn Pimon opened Raintree 19 years ago and has changed little since.

And why should she? The people are friendly, the beer snacks cheap and tasty, and the music, made famous by household names like Caravan and Caribou, soul-stirring.

ร้านจามจุรี ซ.รางน้ำ อนุสาวรีย์

AD HERE THE 13TH (map A2) 13 Samsen Rd, Bang Lamphu | 089769-4613 | 5pm-midnight Funky, jammy, bare – one of Bangkok’s coolest hangouts is nothing more than an aisle packed with five tables, a tiny bar and instruments.

It’s a joint you’d expect to find on Manhattan’s Lower East Side, except for the Chang beer. Nor th of Khao San Road (ask for ‘Ad Here’, once in the quarter), the down-to-ear th, bohemian hang-out packs ‘em in nightly. On weekends, young Thais,

expats and tourists spill out on the sidewalk when the joint is jumpin’.The resident band churns out cool blues, Motown and Janis Joplin; Georgia, the city’s only true Blues Mama, has a voice and figure to match, and would never sing Hotel California. People from around the globe drop in for a quick jam; you’re bound to meet more nationalities than you can list.

Down some crazy cocktails, or do the Thai-style whiskey-soda-ice thing, along with some super-cheap booze munchies. An insider’s must.

แอดเฮีย 13 ถ. สามเสน บางลำภู

Brick Bar (map A2-3) 265 Khao San Rd, Taladyod, Phranakorn | 02-629-4477 | Mon-Sun 7pm1am | free entry (Mon–Thu), B150 incl. 1 free drink (Fri-Sat) Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge shopping arcade, this dark and airy redbrick vault features benches downstairs, an upstairs terrace for people or band watching and plenty of nooks and crannies to party in. A magnet for young live music lovers, it’s jumping most nights of the week with freshy 20-somethings out to catch some of Thailand’s biggest ska, reggae, funk and blues bands, many of whom play their own material. Perfect for friends who’ve just hit town.

บริค บาร์ ถ. ข้าวสาร

ไทเทเนียม ไอซ์บาร์ สุขุมวิท ซ. 22

Raintree Pub (map C3) 116/63-34 Soi Ruamjit, Rang Nam Rd | BTS Victory Monument | 022457230, 081-926-1604 | www.raintreepub.com | 5pm-1am This rustic Thai ‘country’ bar is a sort of all-wooden, pre-consumerist age 92

nightlife

bangkok 101

Parking Toys

Parking Toys (off map) 17/22 Soi Maiyalap, Kaset-Navamin Highway, Bang Khen (pier 135-136 on left hand side) | BTS Mo Chit (then taxi) | 02-907-2228 | 6pm - 1am It’s quite unusual for a business to go out of its way not to be noticed, but Parking Toys seems to do just that. With a dark, dismal exterior, the venue’s “We Accept Visa” logo is surprisingly larger than the actual bar sign. Once you finally do manage to get inside the ex-garage, it’s a sensory overload. Wall-to-wall retro furniture becomes instant eye-candy, while chairs without upholstery dangle from the ceiling. But if the funky furniture creates the space, the live music definitely defines it. Here, there is a band for every alternative music lover; in just one weekend night you can catch reggae root, electronic, rockabilly, and metal – now that’s what we call a variety pack. It’s a hike, but well worth it. So get off your couch and sit on someone else’s – the secret’s out!

ปาร์คกิ้งทอย ซ.มัยลาภ เกษตรนวมินทร์

ZEST (map A3) Soi Austin Bar (Opp.Sunset Street), Kao Sarn Rd. | 081-425-7992, 081350-5890 | http://zest-bar.hi5.com | 6:30pm-2am Spicing up Khao San’s lackluster live music scene is this cozy pub down a dinghy alley. Free of the usual, godawful Oasis/Marley/Chilli Pepper covers, it comes good on the promise of its black and white photos of London punks with a ska-funk-bluesrock line-up that may, after a few drinks, have you jumping around like one. You may not understand a word, but most of the bands here are fun and energetic, ranging from a 6-piece ska band with female trombonist to an expat indie band that plays their own material and the odd Britpop anthem. Beats the schlock ‘n’ roll heard elsewhere on the strip.

THE ROCK PUB (map C3) 93/26-28 Radchatewee, Phayathai Road, (opposite Asia Hotel) | BTS Ratchathewi | www.therockpubbangkok.com | 9:30pm-2am If AC/DC or Def Leppard were in town you’d find them reliving the glory years here. A tatty faux-castle exterior, visible from the Ratchatewi BTS Station, makes you wonder what kind of weird, 1980s theme-park ride you’ve stumbled on, while inside house bands with Brian May hairdos thrash out everything from Van Halen to Motorhead covers. Bands get going at 10pm weekdays, 9:30pm on weekends, as they have done for the past 22 years.

เดอะ ร๊อคผับ ถ.พญาไท

Bangkok Rocks (map D3) The Key Hotel, Sukhumvit Soi 19 | BTS Asok | www.bangkok-rocks.com | 6pm-late Covers of Hendrix, U2 and Santana are the staples from rotating bands at this new bar dedicated to live “classic” rock music. There’s potential in the decent acoustics, a mezzanine with good views of the stage, and beers and wine that start at B100. The downsides are a lack of character in the small boxy room of featureless white walls, and a soulless soundtrack. The Saturday night band we saw, 61 Highway, were competent but a little too harmless to drag across town for. This is a drop-in beer and boogie spot if you’re in the area, but Bangkok will only truly rock here if they attract stronger acts.

รร.เดอะคีย์ สุขุมวิท ซ.19

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Khao San Road

The streets around Khao San Road – that famed budget travellers’ mecca – are buzzing with a frenetic mix of dek naew (trendy teens) and bronzed backpackers. Found at the rear of the Buddy Lodge complex, Brick Bar [1] is a red brick cavern where young locals bounce along to excellent live ska.

A few doors down, Lava Bar [2] is a dark hip-hop dungeon, while Sunset Street [3] is an architecturally interesting conglomerate of bars, but mostly attracts sweaty backpackers. Down the alley opposite, Zest [4] focuses on live Brit Rock, while Hippie De Bar [5], tucked down another alley, is a retro-cool cocktail house. More full-on, The Club [6] is a techno-rave palace offering free UV glowsticks and a huge dancefloor. Just off the strip, Gazebo [7] is an opensided rooftop featuring live reggae, hubbly-bubblies and DJs till the wee hours.

For a more laid-back, cool evening, head to nearby Phra Athit Road, lined with trendy hole-in-the-wall bars, cafés and restaurants. Often compared with NYC’s Greenwich Village, it’s a favourite for young Thais going “beat” and the odd expat. Stop for a cheap caffeine intake at Coffee & More [8] in a beautifully restored colonial mansion. Elegant Hemlock [9] is invaded nightly by artsy folk, drawn to the eclectic Thai food at 1 6 3 2 rock-bottom prices. Minimalist but friendly Joy Luck Club Burger kHao sanroad rd Khao San [10] deserves a mention. For outstanding seafood and King 5 4 absolutely no flair, check out Thon Po [11]. Directly on the riverside, this breezy place offers fantastic views and delicious fish and crustaceans from an expansive menu.

Call ahead to reserve a riverfront spot.

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In recent years these parallel boulevards have embraced sweeping gentrification and emerged as upmarket playgrounds for the young, studiously cool zeitgeist follower, be they celebrity, model, arty type, uni student or slick professional. Aside from their surfeit of luxury condos, boutique lifestyle emporiums, designer spas and restaurants both are studded with trendy nightspots catering to a predominantly Thai clientele. New ones pop up every few months, as if to keep hipsters on their toes and match that season’s colours. For now Muse [1], FunkyVilla [2] and Demo [3] – three giganto clubs on Thonglor Soi 10 – are all the rage. Meanwhile, scattered about are old-timers like Song Saleung [4], a recently refurbished and often heaving live music joint, and Shades of Retro [5] – a combo furniture-store café and hangout for the writer/designer/artiste crowd. Ekkamai’s main drag and side-streets are even better endowed party-wise. Curvaceous Curve [6] and glamorous Jet Metropolitan [7] are big, top-shelf joints offering the usual failsafe blend of live Thai music and DJ’s spinning R’n’B. As the scene stands both are big draws, though the crowds are so gleefully fickle that could change in a Bangkok minute.Track them to the cool club of the moment. Or try two that have achieved longevity: nightclub Nunglen [8] and 4 BTS Thong Lor scruffy little bar Happy Monday [9]. Pretty young Soi 55 (Thong lor) things bounce along to Thai 5 1 tunes in the former; while 2 3 media types (25+) hobnob while enjoying low-key indy6 8 rockstar DJ sessions (May T Soi 63 (Ekkamai) from Modern Dog etc) and 7 9 slouchy sofas in the latter.

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ROYAL City Avenue (RCA)

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For a night of clubbing,Thai twenty-something style, jump in a taxi and say “RCA” to your driver. On arrival, follow the stream of high-heeled and well-coiffed onto Royal City Avenue: a flash, brash, neon-charged nightlife strip much cherished by the city’s dressed-to-kill urban youth. Boasting a slew of swish bars and sprawling split-room clubs – many elbow room only after 11pm – it offers the perfect adventure for indecisive club-goers.

Go in and out as the mega-decibel music takes you (making sure to flash your ID card as you go), as most venues have no cover charge and flaunts a different genre of music.

Hip-hop haven Slim [1] is never short on crowds gettin’ jiggy to Biggie, while other room, Slim Live, offers live music in a more sane setting, and glam alter-ego, Flix [2] preaches bass-thumping trance and house. Next door, granddaddy Route 66 [3] seethes with spaghetti-strapped students and baseball-capped boppers, who flit between its three glam zones and outdoors chill-out zone. Beside it, HOBB [4] is an industrial chic, two-storey bar.

Expect DJs, live music plus occasional appearances by local bands like Bodyslam. Despise radio rap? For edgier dance-music (and funkier Thai/farang crowds) hit 808 [5], a slick red-brick warehouse with a stunning sound system and sets by global DJ gods. Few foreigners venture further, but they should: Old Leng [6] is a rickety wooden pub great for warm-up drinks; while music cave Overtone [7] attracts the drain-pipe jeans, rock-guitar rabble.

There’s also Zeta [8], a live-music bar with a strict girls-only policy. No men, gay men, drag queens or peeping Tom’s allowed.

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On the global nightlife radar Bangkok now registers a strong, steady bleep. And this buzzing soi – with its cosmopolitan collective of hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs tucked off steamy Sukhumvit Road – is one of the reasons. Go here tonight and you’ll rub shoulder straps with fashionable expats, slinky Singaporeans and the odd urbane local, among many other breeds of clubber. Would they all be here if it weren’t for Q Bar [1]? Unlikely. This beat lounge was the first to bring international design, DJs and drinks to the club scene – and, against the odds, 9 years later it still is. Just around the corner is the other Soi 11 superstar, Bed Supperclub [2]; a curvaceous club-cum-restaurant delivering spacey looks, soft white divans and Ibiza-esque beats. Many just rock up at one of these, ID card in hand, at around 11pm. Better, though, to make a night of it and start out early evening. Kick off with bargain al fresco beers at Cheap Charlies [3], a countrified bar only a tad bigger than a broom cupboard. Nest 1 [4], a breezy rooftop bar atop the sleek Le Fenix hotel, is a more upscale 4 5 option offering 2 Bed Supperclub laid-back, bird-nest seating and music that matches (think Sade’s Smooth Operator). Not quite the racy, subterranean Bangkok you were after? For something more risqué 3 check out new neighbour Diva [5]. Inside, caged coyotedancers pull off raw, hi-energy dance moves in what they enticingly call: “A femme fatale of a nightclub.” Think Moulin Rouge meets the Pussycat Dolls add throbbing house beats and you’re close.

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pub crawling featured

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here are many ways of quenching a thirst, but surely the most enjoyable has to be sipping a pint of real beer in a proper public house. With an unexpectedly wide choice of British and Irish bars offering a taste of pub life, Bangkok won’t let you down on this front. Each month Bangkok 101 gives you the low-down on one of the top taverns around town.

Molly Malone’s

Formerly the Irish Exchange, this place might have undergone a refit but it’s kept the atmosphere that has made it such a popular watering hole. Except for a new slightly too bright bar they’ve stuck to the tried and tested décor of dark wood floors, faux stained walls and subtle Irish theme. Gone is the iron staircase giving WHERE 1/5 Convent the buzzing downstairs area, with its high Rd, Silom, BTS Sala tables or leather clad booths, a spacious Daeng, 02-266-7160 OPEN 9am-1am open-plan feel.

It’s also created a lot more room, useful in a pub that always seems busy thanks to an eclectic crowd of Thai and expat business folk and the occasional tourist. They all come thanks to its handy location, good range of beers, including Guinness and Kilkenny, happy hours from 4pm-7pm Monday to Friday and popular ladies night on Thursdays.

There is also the attraction of the sport on six big screens and excellent food, especially their Sunday roast buffet.

With regular music from the likes of the inimitable Lee Shamrock you can always escape upstairs where another bar serves punters as they relax at the king-size tables, by the pool table or perch along the minstrel’s gallery watching the action below.

มอลลี่มาโลนส์ ถ.คอนแวนต์ สีลม

Cigar Lounges

Cigar lounges are slowly catching on in Bangkok, with a handful of venues now providing outstanding facilities for lovers of quality coronas and fine figurados. As well as cigars from Cuba, Ecuador and beyond, the P&L Club lounges typically feature luxurious leather sofas, rich wood accents, discreet staff and stellar selections of wine and single malt whisky.

Some, like Club Perdomo, operate on a members-only basis, with membership granting access to their worldwide network of lounges. Others, like the Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar at the InterContinental hotel, are open to guests and the general public.

The members-only Pacific Cigar Company opened its first lounge, La Casa del Habano, at The Oriental hotel in 1997, and now operates another four venues in Bangkok, as well as one in Pattaya. One of PCC’s more interesting venues is the P&L Club which incorporates a traditional barber shop and what is billed as Thailand’s largest collection of single barrel malt whiskies.

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n Balcony Humidor & Cigar Bar

Lobby level, InterContinental Bangkok, 973 Ploenchit Road | 8am-1am | 02-656-0444 n Club Perdomo Bangkok 3/1 Sukhumvit Soi 28 | 02-661-3220 | www.clubperdomobangkok. com | 6pm-midnight n La Casa del Habano The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Avenue | 02-267-1596 | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm, Sat-Sun: 10am-11pm, Sun and public holidays: noon-6pm | www.pacificcigar.com n P&L Club GF Conrad Bangkok, All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless Road | Mon-Thu: 10am-10pm; Fri-Sat: 10am-11pm, Sun: noon-6pm | 02-685-3898

Balcony Humidor

Club Perdomo

bangkok 101

Pubs 101

Silom AREA PUBS

Hidden among the salacious delights of Silom Road, you will still find some of the “grand old men” of libation locales. O’Reilly’s [1] is a slightly dingy affair whose décor matches its demeanour – grizzled, but down-to-earth. Even so, it’s popular due to nightly drinks specials, live music, and an outdoor seating area to view the exotic sights of Silom. Just down the street is The Barbican [2] a multi-level contemporary concoction of granite and steel where the mixed crowd of expats and locals enjoy superior food and a wide choice of imported beers.Molly Malone’s [3] offers a real taste of Ireland. Drop in during their extended happy hour (5pm-9pm) for live music and multiple big screens for sport. Friendly staff and excellent food (especially their Sunday roast) means this place is always busy. Opposite the infamous Patpong stands The Duke of Wellington [4]. Its open plan layout makes it a bit sterile, but it does have good beer, a daily happy hour 4pm to 9pm and uninterrupted views of the four screens for sport. Jameson’s [5] sat under the Holiday Inn in the heart of the gem district is the newest kid on the block. It’s a cavernous place but still packs in the punters thanks to fantastic happy hours, including ladies’ night on Tuesdays featuring Margaritas for a ridiculously cheap B29 a glass.

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Sukhumvit Road, a haven for expats, is jammed with joints catering to ale aficionados. Beside BTS Phrom Phong station, The Robin Hood [13] offers daily happy hour and drinks specials, as well as live music and sports. Even so, it can sometimes seem a little sedate. Down a nearby alley is The Bull’s Head [12], whose oak-panelled walls and low ceilings give off a cosy feel. It’s notable for a top jukebox and occasional comedy nights featuring international stand-ups. Sundays it’s “Toss the Boss”; call the flip of a coin right and the pub pays for the round. The Londoner [11] is a vast subterranean hideaway that brews its own real ale and lager, has good food and a regular house band. Opposite is the ever-popular Dubliner [10], a three-storey edifice. Though slightly pricy, the superb food (try the sausages), live music and Guinness pull in the punters. Just around the corner, behind the old Mambo Cabaret, Bourbon Street [9] backs up its Cajun/Creole dining with a well-stocked bar and good atmosphere. Up the road in the shadow of Asok BTS, is The Black Swan [8], a proper British booze abode. No bands. No happy hours. Just a snug escape offering a warm atmosphere and a wise-cracking landlord. Tucked down a dead-end street of Soi 11 is The Pickled Liver [7]. A shrine to soccer and suds, the décor is unfussy with a focus on big screen sports. But with friendly staff and daily happy hour it’s not just the sport that makes it worth a visit. Finally, Hanrahans [6] offers a genuine reason to be seen in Nana. Light and airy it ticks all the right boxes with regular music, special drinks deals and daily happy hour.

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■ Bourbon Street 29/4-6 Sukhumvit Soi 22 | BTS Asoke | 02259-0328-9, 02-2594317 | 7am – 1am ■ HANRAHANS Sukhumvit Soi 4 l BTS Nana l 02-255-0644-5l daily 9am-1am ■ JAMESON’S Holiday Inn Silom, Gr. Fl, 981 Silom Rd, BTS Surasak, 02-2667703-5, daily 10am1am ■ MOLLY MALONE’S Convent Rd, Silom | BTS Sala Daeng | 02-2667160 | daily 9am-1am ■ O’REILLYS 62/1-4 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Silom l 02-632-7515 | daily 9am – 2am ■ The BARBICAN 9/4-5 Soi Thaniya Rd | 02-234-3590 | BTS Sala Daeng MRT Silom | daily 11:30am – 1am ■ THE BLACK SWAN 326/8-9 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Asok | MRT Sukhumvit | 02-2294542 | daily 8:00am – midnight ■ THE BULL’S HEAD Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-259-4444 | daily 11:30am – 1am ■ BULLY’S Sukhumvit Rd, btw Sois 2 & 4 | BTS Nana | 02-656-4609 | daily 11am-1am ■ THE DUBLINER 440 Sukhumvit Rd | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204-1841/2 | daily 9am-1am ■ THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON 323 Silom Rd | BTS Sala Daeng l 02-234-2874 | daily 10am-1am ■ THE LONDONER Basement, UBC II Bldg.

Sukhumvit Soi 33 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-261-0238/9 | daily 11am-1am ■ The Pickled LIVER Sukhumvit Soi 11 | BTS Nana | 02-254-3484 | daily 2pm – 3am ■ the robin hood Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-3390 | daily 10pm-midnight 97

Shopping

shopper scene As clichés go, “shop till you drop” could have been written after a demanding spending spree in Bangkok’s sweltering heat. And while we’re dispensing mindless platitudes: there’s something for everyone in this town, however peculiar your peccadilloes may be. For locals, conspicuous consumption in one of the myriad swish mega-malls is the name of the face-gaining game, while foreigners often prefer to dig for buried treasure at the bustling street markets. Whatever your angle, stamina is a must, especially when it comes to pressing sticky flesh with the perspiring masses at the sweltering city-sized jumble sale that is Chatuchak Weekend Market. So brush up on your bargaining patter, arm yourself with Nancy Chandler’s invaluable shopping map - and prepare for sheer retail overload.

UNIQUE boutique

Bangkoksmiths Marilyn’s most famous tune still rings true – diamonds are still any girl’s best friend. But at Bangkoksmiths, a collective of Thai jewelry brands, Swarovski, silver, copper and even resin can be a girl’s best friend too.

Despite only occupying a corner at Siam Paragon’s accessory floor, Bangkoksmiths does stand out from the crowd of hiso-lady pleasing counters of blings thanks to its classic library-like décor. The black tiered shelves take on a role of a museum display, showcasing pieces from jewelry collections by four brands – Jogema, Matina Amanita, Trimode and Missiles – all of which offer distinctively interesting collections of playful and colourful accessories.

Bangkoksmiths was created in the hope WHERE M Floor, Siam of bringing Thai jewelry design industry onto Paragon department store, the world stage. Four designer friends, one of Rama I Rd. BTS Siam, them Manita Sukhahuta of Sretsis fame, came 089-827-6478 together to offer an array of quirky decorative OPEN 10am – 10pm pieces. Missiles is a platter of androgynous rock n’ roll inspired costume jewelries, while Matina is the complete opposite, with pastel, Swarovski-filled girly favorites. Jogema goes with shiny brass in its new chess collection, while Trimode keeps things fun and colourful with the use of unconventional jewelry materials, such as rubber and resin.

Though the pieces from the four brands are completely different, they all possess the same playful concept. Like Matina’s collection of girly flowers and bird rings, which can be mixed and matched to create a mini woodland of adorable creatures on your finger. Or a ring dipped in velvet dust by Trimode which once worn over time will reveal a gemstone within.

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stuff Want to find the best deals in town? Read on and we’ll tell you where to go and what to buy. Not the global brands you can find anywhere, or the tat you will soon regret ever having wasted your money on, but the cool, home-grown “stuff” that Bangkok is justly famous for.

Karmakamet

Silk/apparel Thai silk only started getting international attention quite recently, but quickly became renowned for its thickness and lustrous sheen. Jim Thompson is the legendary American silk revivalist who – with the help of a small community of weavers – pioneered the modern industry. Since then the brand has branched out from ties and cushions into a fully-fledged fashion label that even dabbles in Zen furniture design, as you’ll see if you visit one of their many sleek stores. LP Silk and Shinawong are two exporting wholesalers who can be trusted to fix you up with the whole nine yards (or more). n Jim Thompson Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Jim Thompson House Museum; Surawong Rd | www.jimthompson.com n LP Thai Silk Silom Village Trade Centre, 286 Silom Road | 02-234-4448 | www.lpthaisilk.com n Shinawong No C500 , C501 Ayudthaya Soi 8 Suan Lum; No27, 6F MBK Centre| www.shinawong.com Handicrafts Beyond triangular pillows and woven shoulder bags, there are hordes of native trinkets up for grabs, with stiff competition keeping prices down.The main markets all bristle with goodies made from bamboo, coconut, rattan, wicker, wood and water hyacinth. As does Narayanaphand, an indoor bazaar offering ceramics, hand stitched fabrics and artisan goods; Silom Village; and the 6th floor of mazy MBK. bangkok 101

The monthly, OTOP-approved ThaiCraft Fair is a place to pick up that bulrush basket for less (while ensuring its maker also gets a fair price). For Celadon and Benjarong ceramics (a form of Thai porcelain originally made for royalty), try one of Siam Ceramic Handmade’s showrooms. n ThaiCraft Fair Third floor, Ambassador Hotel’s Tower Wing, Sukhumvit Rd Soi 11 | www.thaicraft.org n Narayanaphand InterContinental Hotel GF, 973 Ploenchit Road | BTS Chidlom | 02-656-0173-4 n Siam Ceramic Handmade Room 325-326, River City Shopping Complex F3; 202 Sukhumvit Soi 10 | www.thaibenjarong.com

Fashion Spotted the local trendies yet? Then you’ll be wondering where it is they get their cool indigenous fashions. Several malls and markets around town act as little fashion hatcheries, giving you the chance to snap up dazzling pieces by local up-and-comers. Section 3 of Chatuchak, for starters, is jammed with fecund fashions. Here, amidst piles of vintage and aisles packed with kids who know how it wear it, you’ll find next season’s trends. Suan Lum and Siam Square are also spotted with dainty designer boutiques; while youth-orientated shopping mall Siam Centre and Gaysorn offer homespun high fashions by labels like Jaspal and Greyhound.

Jewellery/gems Some of the world’s best lapidaries are based here, stocking cut and uncut domestic and regionallymined precious stones. The best local jewellers can also turn wondrous tricks with gold, silver and platinum.

Assuming, that is, you can find them – the city is, sadly, alive with shysters out to lure you away from legit dealers and into an intricate gem scam. There are a few diamonds in the rough, though.

Lambert Industries, with their friendly and reliable service, has been coming up with the goods for 35 years. n Lambert Industries (807-809 Silom Shanghai Bldg 4F, Silom Rd Soi 17, 02-236-4343).

OTOP: One Tambon One Product One of former prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra’s more laudable legacies is his instigation of OTOP, a government initiative that markets handicrafts made in one of Thailand’s 7,000 tambons (subdistricts). These quality gifts, snacks, handicrafts, toys, gems, textiles and jewellery, can be purchased at fairs at the city’s exhibition halls, Narayanaphand and the monthly ThaiCraft Fair. By choosing OTOP products you’ll be helping preserve local crafts and ensure that the villager who made them can earn a fair living.

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Antiques Thai, Burmese and Cambodian antiques are among Asia’s finest – but all that glitters ain’t gold, so you’ll often be hard-pressed to find the real deal among the look-alikes. Unless, that is, you’re willing to shell out, in which case you’ll love the River City Complex, the sprawling, mother-of-allantique centres (p.102). Auctions are on the first Saturday of each month with viewings the preceding week.

Alternatives include period antique centre OP Place (p.102); Amantee, a gorgeous Thai house offering Oriental and Tibetan antiques on Bangkok’s outskirts; and L’Arcadia. And who can say what treasures the dustier straits of Chatuchak and Chinatown hold in store for the determined? n Amantee 131/3 Chaeng Wattana 13, Laksi, 10210 | 02-982-8694-5 | www.amantee.com n L’Arcadia 12/2 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02-259-9595

Aromatherapy & Spa One of Bangkok’s more fitting titles is “Spa Capital of Asia”. The following slick local product lines should get you fragrant, gooey and purring with pleasure in next to no time. Panpuri offers Asian-inspired sensory purification – pricy but wonderful combinations of holistic spa-inspired treatments and products. Worldly mixtures for washing, moisturising, cleansing and relaxing can be found at Thann; while Karmakamet specialise in long-lasting lotions, gels, incense and candles that create the perfect bridge between scent and soul.

Finally, Anyadharu offers health-imbuing natural oils, bath body gels and perfumes that are designed to give you much more than just a whiff of indulgence. n Anyadharu Chatuchak (Section 3); Isetan (MBK F4) | www.anyadharu.com n Karmakamet CentralWorld F2; Chatuchak Market, Section 2, Soi 3 | www.karmakamet.co.th n Panpuri

Paragon F1; King Power Duty Free; Central Chidlom F4; Gaysorn F7 | www.panpuri.com n ThanN Central Chidlom F4; Central Ladprao F5; Isetan Plaza (CentralWorld) F5; Siam Discovery Centre F5; Emporium F4 | www.thann.info

Shopping Tips

n Bargaining: This is a way of life when shopping on the streets in Bangkok. The key is not to act too interested. They know you can find it further down the street, and if they want to make the sale they’d better be prepared to drop their price. If they ask B500, offer B350. You might get it for B380-400. Don’t be shy: it’s expected. Most importantly when haggling over price: keep a smile on your face and a cool head.

n VAT: Look out for signs advertising “VAT Refund or Tourists”. At these places, they should have the paperwork (ask for a PP10 form) to enable you to claim back 7% on purchases when you leave the country on an international flight. The deal is you have to spend at least B2,000 at the same store on any given day, and you can only claim back on totals of B5,000 or over. It’s worth doing if you have a department store blitz, or fancy splashing out on electronics, jewellery or other expensive goods.

Have your passpor t and tickets with you when you buy, and prepare to have your purchases, PP10 forms and receipts inspected when you claim back at the airpor t VAT refund counter. Be aware: if you are making big purchases and not paying VAT, you aren’t guaranteed quality products. For more info, check out www.rd.go.th

n Counterfeit Stoners: Bounders running gem scams are ubiquitous on Bangkok’s streets.

Beware anyone (tuk-tuk drivers especially) offering free rides to nearby “stockists” – they’re conmen on the make. The TAT provides quality assurance through the Jewel Fest Club; look for their ruby-ring logo on shop-fronts.

n Keep it Real: As elsewhere in Asia, counterfeit goods abound in Bangkok. From the latest DVDs to luxury brand clothes, watches, handbags and fragrances, it’s all here – at a fraction of the price. But, tempting though it may be, remember that the quality never matches the original and you’ll struggle to get refunds. Perhaps scarier, you risk getting busted at customs back home; and by purchasing fake goods you inadvertently sponsor organised crime. So, just keep it real.

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Duty Free – Duress Free Much more civilized than sprinting through the long corridors of Suvarnabhumi is a visit to King Power.

At this glassy, space-port like complex on Soi Rang Nam (BTS Victory Monument, then catch a free tuk-tuk from Century Plaza), you can do your duty-free shopping at your own pace, days (instead of minutes) before your plane takes off. Peruse products such as cosmetics, clothes, computers and more – all at tax-free prices. Find what you want, order it and it will be waiting for you at the airport on your way out.

Just be sure to bring your air ticket and passport. www.kingpower.com

bangkok 101

LIVING FOR DESIGN: Jitrin Jintaprecha

bangkok design Brian Mertens

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rising star among young Bangkok designers, Jitrin Jintaprecha is one of the few working as a fulltime consultant. Freelancing is a product design career that barely existed in Thailand before 2001, the year Jitrin finished his bachelor’s degree in industrial design. Had he graduated earlier, Jitrin might have had only two options: become a staff designer or start a company to produce his own designs. But since the late 1990s, dozens of new local furniture brands have begun commissioning original product lines, paying design fees and royalties.

The freedom of freelancing has nourished Jitrin’s imagination and skills. He has created products in a wide variety of materials and styles for such brands as Corner 43, Hygge and Stone & Steel. None are done in overtly Thai style, but many embody attributes that Jitrin links to local culture, in terms of function, form, craftsmanship, materials or concept.

A good example is his Klom seatable (above), a circular coffee table that also serves as a bench or ottoman. This product idea derives from the traditional Chinese-influenced tang, the kind of rectangular low platform that Thais use either as a table while seated on the floor, or else as a daybed, with cushions on top. Jitrin turned to this concept for manufacturer Stone & Steel, which wanted multipurpose furniture adapted to the small living spaces of today’s urban Asian dwellings. Other Jitrin designs feature Thai handicraft, like woven rattan or water hyacinth.

Jitrin relies on method and intuition in equal balance. “When I design a product, everything counts—the form, colour, function, materials, price. But the reason I love to design is because I want to find the right proportions for things.”

His passion for this work burns so bright he finds time for only three or four hours of sleep a night.

AVAILABLE AT: n STONE&STEEL CO. LTD 56 Sukhumvit Soi 62, Phrakanong | www.estonesteel.com | 02-741-6034~6 Bangkok Design:Thai Ideas in Textiles and Furniture is the first book to explore Asia’s new wave in design creativity. Award-winning author Brian Mertens profiles 36 of Thailand’s top designers, showing how they translate their own culture and experiences into unique furnishings that have won international awards and museum exhibitions. Typically handcrafted from natural materials, the best contemporary Thai designs celebrate wit, warmth, sustainability and alluring form.

Bangkok Design – published by Marshall Cavendish – B1,200 - hardcover, written by Brian Mertens, with photos by Robert McLeod. bangkok 101

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Shopping

V

isitors to Bangkok will be amazed at how prevalent mall culture is in the weave of modern Thai society. Malls are not just places to shop for designer labels; there are restaurants, cinemas, bowling, aquariums and more! Bangkok’s retail mall epicentre is around the Siam and Chit Lom areas.

mall crawl MBK BTS National Stadium Perpetually packed shopper’s paradise; a mind-boggling, onestop bargain. Always busy, on weekends half of Bangkok’s teens converge here, hunting for the latest mobile phones and more.

SIAM DISCOVERY BTS Siam Light, pleasant and never too busy.

Inside it’s international hip young brands (Diesel, Replay, Armani Exchange) and impressive interior stores (Loft and Mae Fah Luang).

JIM THOMPSON HOUSE

BTS National Stadium

MAJOR HOTELS 1 Pathumwan Princess 2 Novotel Siam 3 The Four Seasons 4 Grand Hyatt Erawan 5 Intercontinental 6 Holiday Inn 7 Conrad 8 Plaza Athenee 9 Royal Orchid Sheraton 10 The Oriental 11 The Peninsula 12 Shangri-La

1

SIAM CENTER BTS Siam The mall that started it all in 1973 hauls in trendy teens and young adults who shop for Euro-fashion and innovative local brands like Jaspal and Soda.

BTS Siam Elevated rama 1 rdWalkway

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CENTRALWORLD BTS Siam All hail Bangkok’s largest shopping mall, uniquely served by an elevated walkway connecting Siam Skytrain station to its Chit Lom counterpart.

3

4 5 6

oen k char

rd.

ong s u raw 11

OP PLACE This fine objets d’art shopping plaza across from The Oriental Bangkok corresponds well to the classy hotel.

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ru ng

10

r

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To Emporium shopping mall, get off at BTS Phrom Phong

rive

BTS Ploen Chit

9

yra

8

d. ya r S i phra

o ph cha

WITTHAYU rd

C E N T R AL C H I T LOM BTS Chit Lom Seven floors of clothes, shoes and accessories from all the major labels, plus some eye-catching Thai designers. Food Loft is Bangkok’s deluxe food court.

phetburi rd

ploenchit rd

ALL SEASONS PLACE BTS Ploen Chit The sleek mall in a skyscraper complex is known more for its battery of eateries than its shops although the high-end retail range is impressive – art galleries, cigar shops, tailors and Euro-fashion.

GAYSORN BTS Chid Lom All-white interior of glitzy, top-class brands – expect Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

chidlom

lang suan rd

EMPORIUM BTS Phrom Phong Ver y chic mall with the most amiable atmosphere, thanks to its airy architecture.

Look for TCDC, the neat Thailand Creative Design Center.

RIVER CITY Four well laid-out floors of stores selling antiques, plus ethnic and tribal ar t from Southeast Asia, with a bit of the South Pacific, Indonesia, Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan thrown in.

Ratchadamri rd

ERAWAN BANGKOK BTS Chid Lom Posh boutique mall adjacent to the Erawan Shrine.

Think Burberry.

BTS Chitlom

7

PANTHIP PLAZA Bangkok’s one-stop shop for any and all computing needs: hardware, software and gadgets. It’s a loud, brash mecca for technogeeks.

SIAM PARAGON BTS Siam This gigantic shopping complex is legendary among Bangkok hi-sos.

Home to Siam Ocean World aquarium, too.

ZEN BTS Siam This pop art-styled, multilevel designer department store aims to attire Bangkok’s young-at-heart funsters in the latest international fashions.

Phaya Thai rd

u ri rd

SIAM SQUARE BTS Siam Bangkok’s heart for trendsetters, this maze of narrow streets has heaps of tiny boutiques carrying local up-and-comers, gastrogems and indie cinemas.

ph e tb

Phaya Thai rd

m silo

bangkok 101

Shopping

markets

the standardised mix of crafts, textiles and knick-knacks offered at inflated prices. Don’t take that as reason not to come, because wandering round “Suan Lum” makes for a pleasant early evening stroll, before moving on to the nearby entertainment zones. In fact, endeavour to visit while you can: Lumpini Night Market’s days are numbered, after the powers-that-be auctioned off its multifarious charms to make space for yet another redundant addition to the city’s obsessive collection of modern shopping malls.

สวนลุมไนท์บาร์ซาร์

Suan Lum Night Bazaar

CHATUCHAK (map D1) Forget designer malls. JJ weekend market is Bangkok’s true paragon of retail. This is shopping as survival of the fittest: only those with finely tuned consumer instincts shall persevere – the rest can get lost – literally. Taking a wrong turn’s almost a given in this sprawling, city-sized marketplace, upon which zillions descend every weekend, to trade everything from Burmese antiques to pedigree livestock. Originally a flea market, Chatuchak quickly outgrew the confines of the insect world to become much more than the sum of its disparate parts. These days, young Thai designers take advantage of the low onsite rent to punt their creative wares; if you so desire, you can peruse piles of customised Zippos that once belonged to American GIs during ‘Nam; and tasty pickings conveniently punctuate every which way. Additionally, the exotic pet section supports the theory that JJ has somehow evolved its own diverse eco-system (albeit one that periodically gets busted for peddling endangered species).

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All this can be a bit overwhelming at first, but persevere and a semblance of order begins to crystallise from the chaos (Nancy Chandler’s famous map also comes in invaluable). Go in the early morning or late afternoon to avoid the worst of the heat and the crowds. Or, with many stalls opening for business on Friday, you can come for a leisurely browse before the real deluge hits - although only the weekend gig gives ardent shopaholics the fully-blown, unadulterated fix.

ตลาดนัดจตุจกั ร

SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR (map C4) The official (read: tourist authorityrecommended) civic night bazaar is far more manageable than JJ - and mercifully less sweaty and intimidating.

In fact, as Bangkok markets go, this amiable though sanitised effort probably ranks as the most consistently civilised – and its lively food court and expansive German beer garden offer extra incentive to linger. Bear in mind, however, that the market is mainly geared to separate tourists from dollars, with shopping

PAK KHLONG TALAD (Flower Market) Wake up and smell the roses, as next to Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) lies Bangkok’s main flower market, a 24-hour hive of floral activity bristling with blooms carted in from around the country. Horticulturalists and those with a well developed olfactory sense will enjoy strolling around these fragrant surrounds.

ปากคลองตลาด

THEWET Not far north from the flower market is the riverside plant market.

The street is lined with small shops selling a wide selection of tropical potted flora. It’s easiest and most scenic to access Thewet by river taxi, thus evoking the waterborne glories of the days when Bangkok was hailed as “Venice of the East”.

เทเวศน์

NAKHORN KASEM Known locally as the “thieves market”, this smallish street-side market in Chinatown offers a curious blend of second-hand goods, the odd antique, and a seemingly random assortment of household appliances.

As its nickname would suggest, ample bargains await patient, eagleeyed shoppers - though don’t expect a receipt, let alone a refund.

นครเกษม

bangkok 101

Sidewalks are where it’s at for cheap presents to take back home. Oddities unfound in other lands, funny T-shirts, wooden carvings, paintings and much more crowd the side streets of the city. Most of the stuff on offer can be picked up in the malls and markets – but where’s the fun in that? And why pay more? Bargain!

Khao San Road Along every budget traveller’s favourite sidewalk, stallholders do a sterling trade in “novelty” T-shirts and cigarette papers, not to mention phoney degree certificates, driving licenses and press passes. And yes, if you must, you can still get your tiedye and fisherman’s pants, your hair dreadlocked, or eat B20 noodles from a polystyrene plate. However, these days post-millennial Khao San has been gentrified into somewhere bearing scant resemblance to its humble past as a tropical haven for wandering hippies. And you’ll find no better proof than night times here, when whole mounds, suitcases and racks of young-at-heart stuff (frayed t-shirts, handbags, polka dot dresses etc) are dragged down and splayed on the street for sale by the city’s baby-faced entrepreneurs.

Silom Road/Patpong Both sides of Silom Road, just off Sala Daeng BTS station, offer day and night time shopping, but it really gets going between 6pm and 2am,

when stalls set up here and along the notorious strip of sleazy gogo bars known as Patpong. This is a bizarre but uniquely ripe set-up that sees vendors plying busy nightly trade on the doorsteps of the bars concurrently plying an open trade in flesh; and young families rubbing shoulders with a motley crew of pimps, johns and scantily clad strippers. Among the illicit booty of pirated DVDs and designer knockoffs, the market actually does offer some decent local crafts, t-shirts and souvenirs – although, with prices naturally tilted towards the tourist end of the scale, robust bargaining skills are essential here.

Sukhumvit Road The choices start around Soi 4 near BTS Nana station, on both sides of the major thoroughfare, and stretch nearly to Soi 20. In amidst the streetfood shacks and fortune tellers, you’ll find its mostly bogus tat all the way – polyester football shirts, DVDs, blown-up prints of long-tail boats moored on idyllic southern

sidewalks beaches. Although, right past Soi 6 is a group of deaf merchants who are always eager to find you something nice to remember beloved Thailand by. Velvet oil painting anyone?

Pratunam A ten-minute walk from CentralWorld, this sidewalk is famed for its bulk clothing deals. Loaded with knock-offs, and crowded with tourists shopping for all things casual, you’ll find textiles, fabrics, fancy dress (Catwoman mask ensemble anyone?) and great jeans at affordable prices (never pay more than B600!).

Spreading out from the base of the looming Baiyoke Sky Hotel, it attracts a multinational mix of fasttalking traders, all on the make, and continues around the intense indoor fashion market, Platinum Fashion Mall, where everything is available at discounted rates for bulk orders.

Buy three or more and save yourself anywhere from B150-300 per item.

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Accommodation

boutique bangkok

In each new issue Bangkok 101 brings you the best of Bangkok’s new breed. Each month we uncover those quirky, elegant, or downright luxurious lodgings that fit under the trendy boutique hotel banner.

Chic 39

“We want you to feel like you’re staying in a jungle” says Khun Jak, the male half of the husband-wife duo behind this funky little b&b for flashpackers. Mission accomplished: not only does Chic 39 come backed by greenspace – a backyard oasis complete with sun-dappled plant and trees, stepping stone ponds and chill treehouse – it’s also only metres from another type of jungle entirely, Bangkok’s Sukhumvit Road.

Entering Chic 39’s crunchy gravel driveway, arrivals are greeted by a white le mur vegetal (a vertical garden) gate/ entranceway. From hereon in, tropical paint schemes and shabby chic abounds in a 60-year-old family townhouse, be it in the banana-yellow lobby strewn with tschotkes (straw hats, a bust of Superman etc) or the five rooms. These boast distressed wood floors, radios and blown-up wall photographs of forests, beaches or field scenes, as well as open-plan bathrooms with stainless steel wash-tub showers.

Choosing a favourite is tough – they’re all lookers – but it’s a tossup Where 10 Sukhumvit Soi 39, Klongton-Nua, Wattana, between the Chompoo Villa, which 081-701-7607, www.chic39.com is separate from the main house, Price B2,000 – 4,500 (10% overlooks the garden and comes with off until Apr 2010 a billowing, dessert-tent style bedroom and open-air bathroom made of bamboo; and the White 180 Degree, a vivacious room on the second-floor with front and back views of the house and shaded by a pink-budding tabebuia rosea tree.

Breakfast is a simple Thai affair, comprised of nutritious staples like rice porridge or barbequed pork and sticky rice. While the prices may seem a bit dear – they offer no pool, no in-room fridges or TVs (bar one in the Chompoo Villa) – Chic 39 wins you over with it tropical rusticity, eye-popping interiors and familyrun approach. And, as long as you’ve got the mosquito repellent handy, its jungle garden is bliss after a day spent tramping through the concrete one.

รร.ชิค 39 สุขุมวิท ซ.39

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accommodation

bangkok 101

At the intersection of Business and Leisure

Located in the heart of Bangkok’s vibrant central business district, the “All-Suite” Marriott Executive Apartments Sathorn Vista – Bangkok offers guests a selection of tastefully appointed 1, 2 and 3 bedroom fully furnished apartments for any length of stay.

1 Sathorn Soi 3, South Sathorn Road, Thungmahamek, Sathorn, Bangkok, Thailand 10120 Tel : (66) 2 343 6789 Fax : (66) 2 343 6790 visit www.marriott.com/bkkea

H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

body & beauty

B

angkok offers more places to indulge in massage than any other city on earth. A great Thai massage can cost just B100 per hour, while posher spas can easily cost 10 times that. Like any place else, spa value can be gauged by the quality of the therapists, oils, atmosphere and so on. In each issue we introduce several local spas in different price categories to help you find the best rub-down for your baht (see p.109 for this month’s listings) – no need to break the bank to get a good treatment. Reservations are always recommended.

Thai-massage

What could be more quintessentially Thai than the world-renowned practice of traditional Thai-style massage? Known in Thailand as nuad pan boran – literally ‘ancient style massage’ – Thais have been practising this time-honoured, therapeutic custom for over 2,500 years, dating back to the life of Buddha. Traditional Thai massage is performed without oil, with people typically wearing light-weight, loose-fitting pyjamas. By way of acupressure points that stimulate muscles and nerves, and assisted yogic stretching, skilled Thai massage practitioners employ their hands, elbows, knees, as well as their own body weight, to apply various degrees of pressure and mobilisation to different parts of the body.

This ancient form of healing can do wonders for all of the body’s organic systems by helping to align and balance the energies of the body. By enhancing blood circulation, Thai massage can help to break down and release toxins trapped in the body, in turn strengthening the immune system.

Though Thai massage can at moments be a bit painful, the after-effect is not one of fatigue, but calm. Common remarks are of relief to aching muscles, an increase in flexibility and higher general energy levels. Others report better sleep, a decrease in stress and an overall boost, both on a physical and emotional, as well as a spiritual level.

signature treatment / BTS Phrom Phong / 02-204-2008-9 / www.

Golden Caviar Facial urbanretreatspa.net <http://www.urbanretreatspa.net> Spa / 10am-10pm / $ Treatment at True 30-minute Himalayan Crystal pink Salts with Urban Retreat Spa – 31/10 Sukhumvit Soi 35

“Caviar... on my face?” Although your first instinct might be Yogurt and Honey Scrub + 60-minute Macadamiaenjoy, Oil Massage: to place it on a cracker and let your tummy it’s time1200 baht Tucked away in a side street close to Phrom to give your face a turn. True Spa takes luxuryUrban to the next is precisely that – a Phong, Retreat quiet the bustle of Sukhumvit level, by using caviar’s minerals to revive yourspot faceclose fromtothe and the upscaleSlide Emporium shopping mall. everyday ware and tear of makeup, heat, and pollution.

This new, small spa is popular with Thais and past the cheesy foyer and into a private suite to foreign fully enjoy long-term residents drawn by very the 60 minute treatment. The caviar scrub is gently massaged Where True Spa Zen, Zen Tower, 11F into your face and neck, letting the Central World, Rajadamri Rd, 02-684-8999, extracts repair skin cells. Don’t try www.truespa.co.th BTS Siam/Chit Lom and lick the stuff, trust us it’s not Open 10am – 10pm the tasty kind. Next, a lifting mask Price B2,899 until 31 December tones your face and reduces those pesky wrinkles. While you are waiting for the mask to set the therapist gives your arms and legs a mini-massage to make sure the rest of your body is just as happy as your face. Talk about attentive! You can proudly leave sans makeup, with a remarkably smooth, fresh palette to face the day. With two branches, open seven days a week, including holidays, you have no excuse not to go on and treat yourself to some non-stop pampering. Who knows, maybe next time you’ll be swimming in champagne.

เซ็นทรัลเวิลด์ ถ.ราขดำริ

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spas

Urban Retreat Spa (map D3-4) THE PEARL SPA (map C3) 31/10 Soi Promjai, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-204- 11/1 Soi Ruam Rudi, Ploenchit Rd. | BTS Ploen Chit | 022008-9 | www.urbanretreatspa.net | 10am – 10pm | $$ 255-2070-1 | www.thepearlspasalon.com | Mon-Fri 10am This accurately monikered little dollop of indulgence is – 9pm, Sat – Sun 9am – 9pm |$$$$ tucked away off Sukhumvit, down soi 31 and around a Your eyes bulge on entering this pearly white 8-room spa corner. It’s a walkable, pleasant even, 5-minute wander with a Skytrain-friendly location. Twice in fact: first on walkto reach this place, with its sleek white-framed, glass-pan- ing into the glam reception area decked out in Boticellian elled front. Upstairs there’s a curtained hallway lined with murals, neo-Victorian furniture and faux-pearl motifs; secmattresses primed for ond on spotting the exhaustive 15-page menu. typical SPA cost range traditional Thai massage, Despite the chi-chi gloss, treatments are plausibly $ under B600 with fresh towels folded priced, whether you’re in for a brisk 45 min body $$ B600 – B1,000 so expertly into orchid scrub or a one-week, head-to-toe rejuvenation. Do $$$ B1,000-2,000 shapes they should be try the Pearl Signature, a reviving rub blending Pan$$$$ B2,000+ entered into an origami Asian schools, deep tissue work and rhythmic flow Credit cards accepted unless bath-ware contest. Alinto a please-never-end 90 mins. This is also the only otherwise noted though the multi-limed place in town with an Ultratone: a state-of-the-art delights of the Four fat busting contraption. It’s the perfect spa for girlyHands Massage are also offered here, we recommend, girls (and metrosexual boys) to lose a few hours in. Go for the Urban Touch treatment: a hybrid healer combining the bewildering treatment range, the facials, the small yet Thai twists with the strokes influenced by Indonesia and spangly treatment rooms, the top beauty product ranges or manipulation from the Maldives. a gossip in the nail/hair salon or foot massage room.

เออร์บันรีทรีทสปา ซ.พร้อมใจ สุขุมวิท 39

เดอะเพิร์ลสปา ซ.ร่วมฤดี

Simply Serene Perfecting the harmony between your mind, body and soul, Crystal Spa offers an exquisite Thai heritage spa experience. Using traditional Thai herbs and a masterful touch, our masseuses deliver divine treatments in a serene and exotic setting.

christmas promotions:

Aroma Hot Candle

Buy a 90 minutes aroma hot candle massage and enjoy 30 minutes extra for free

Crystal Spa is located on Sukhumvit Rd., right in front of BTS Phrakanong Station escalator (Exit 3).

Open daily from 10.00-22.00 hrs. Free parking is available at Good Year Eagle Store.

For Reservation: Tel.02-382-2244, 02-382-4455 www.crystalspathailand.com

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H e a l t h & We l l n e s s

wellness centres YOGA & PILATES The Pilates Studio (map C3) 888/58-9 Mahatun Plaza | Phloen Chit Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-6507797 | www.pilatesbangkok.com Bangkok’s first dedicated Pilates studio also offers pre- and postnatal breathing classes, vinyasa yoga, and gyrotonic expansion in well-lit, airy studios. First-timer sessions (Wed & Sun, B400) include mats and towels. Check the website for schedules. พิลาธีสสตูดิโอ มหาทุนพลาซ่า เพลินจิต Yoga Elements (map C3) 29 Vanissa Bldg, Soi Chit Lom | BTS Chit Lom | 02-655-5671 | www.yogaelements.com | 7am-9pm (Mon-Fri), 9am-6pm (Sat-Sun) Bangkok’s first vinyasa / ashtanga yoga studio specialises in dynamic yoga techniques. The large practice studios are bright, quiet and ideal for small classes. Learning methods include four levels, so absolute beginners will feel at ease with popping ’round for an “Elements” class of the foundational techniques of breathing and body opening postures. Single classes are B500; you can simply drop by (check their website for schedules). โยคะ เอเลเม้นท์ 29 อาคารวานิสสา ซอยชิดลม (หลังเซ็นทรัลชิดลม)

S Medical Spa

Urban lifestyle taking its toll? Fear not for there are plenty of wellness centres around ready to rejuvenate your mind, body, and soul. Lock it all out and feel free to throw away the key to the rest of the world as these holistic havens will pamper you to the edges of hedonistic bliss.

Tria Integrative Wellness (map D3) 998 Rimklongsamsen Rd, Bangkapi | 02660-2600 | www.triaintegrativewellness. com | 7am-10pm Embrace your wellness at this urban retreat. With state-of-theart equipment coupled with expert specialists, Tria is ready to carry out its philosophy of caring for what it believes to be the three most crucial health components – the elemental, structural and emotional states. These three elements, when integrated will provide complete harmony and true wellness for you.

ศูนย์สขุ ภาพองค์รวม TRIA (ตรัยยา) ถ.ริมคลองสามเสน (หลังโรงพยาบาลปิยะเวท)

Hydrohealth (map C3) 494 Erawan Bangkok, 4th Fl, Phloen Chit Rd l BTS Chit Lom | 02- 250-7800 |www.hydrohealth.co.th | 10am-8pm The first hydrotherapy colonic centre in Thailand has some of the most innovative equipment around. The colonic procedure not only rids you of all the unwanted toxins in your intestine but has shown it can improve overall health and other conditions such as allergies and skin problems.

The centre also has massage packages and infrared sauna, along with organic food and supplements available.

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ไฮโดรเฮลท์ เอราวัณแบงคอก ถ.เพลินจิต

S Medical Spa (map C3) 2/2 Phakdi Building,Wireless Rd | BTS Phloen Chit | 02-253-1010 | www.smedspa.com | 10am-10pm The world of science and art collide ensuring you get a fully-fledged treatment as eastern traditions are combined with western technology to health & wellness

lift you up physically and mentally. The highly qualified staff consists of certified physicians, psychiatrists, dermatologists, gynaecologists and many other -gists ensuring you the most skilled and efficient service available.

เอสเมดิคัลสปา อาคารภักดี ถ.วิทยุ

Rasayana Retreat (map D4) 57 Soi Prom-mitr, Sukhumvit 39 | BTS Phrom Phong | 02-662-4803-5 | www.rasayanaretreat.com | 9am-8pm Specialists in deep cleansing programmes and hydrotherapy colonics that leave you refreshed and reborn and also a little bit lighter. Also the Raw Food café at Rasayana is definitely worth stopping by as they promote raw fresh foods using organic fruits and vegetables to help your body stay as clean as possible.

รัสยานา รีทรีทต์ ซ. พร้อมมิตร สุขมุ วิท 39

Amruth Wellness Center (mapE4) Sukhumvit 55,Thong Lo Soi 8 | BTS Thong Lo | 02-715-9440 | 7am - 10:30pm Get treated for everything from sexual dysfunction to back problems at this fully-fledged Ayurvedic medical centre – Bangkok’s first. Every patient at this leafy garden townhouse gets a consultation with Keralan Doctor Baspin K., whether you’re in for a drop-in, dropout treatment, a yoga sesh or to embark on a life-changing panchakarma package.

Stocked with medicines imported from the Subcontinent, holistic highlights include a hanging massage and the head oil-dribbling odyssey that is a shiro dhara.

อมฤต ศูนย์สขุ ภาพต้นตำรับอายุรเวท ศาสตร์ ทองหล่อ ซ.8

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M

edical tourism is huge business in Thailand; a billion dollar industry. In 2007, Bangkok’s Bumrungrad Hospital alone reckoned to have treated over 400,000 patients from nearly 200 countries. And while Bumrungrad may be the market leader, there are plenty of others – such as Samitivej, BNH Hospital and Bangkok Hospital – who are increasingly courting international trade.

The price is right Reasons for the popularity of travelling to Thailand for medical attention are manifold, but essentially come down to price. Healthcare in your own country may be prohibitively expensive, or maybe your insurance does not cover a procedure you need. Or maybe you’ve decided that for the same price as an operation in your home town you could fly to exotic Thailand, have the operation then recover on a warm beach with a mango shake in one hand and a paperback in the other.

When you consider that procedures like heart bypass surgery in the USA can cost anywhere in the region of $70,000, while in Thailand it’s be more like $15,000, the numbers start to make sense. Especially when you consider your doctor here is likely to be foreign trained anyway. And it’s not just major surgery that provides the draw. Cosmetic surgery such as breast enhancement and liposuction is readily available at attractive prices, as is dental work and Lasik eye surgery. In fact, you can grab a Botox shot while you cruise the Bangkok malls.

Four star treatment Some of the hospitals here have to be seen to be believed. When you walk into Samitivej Hospital, for example, the lush décor, cute cafes and chic boutiques give it an almost resort atmosphere. And back at Bumrungrad, once you’ve been met at the airport, sped through customs and situated in your private room, they have their own immigration department and

bangkok 101

a team of translators to take all the hassle out of your trip.

You have to do your homework, though. Is the hospital you’re considering properly accredited? What are your doctor’s actual qualifications?

Will you really be ready to go scuba diving only three days after a back operation? How soon after your operation is it safe to fly long-haul?

And what happens if complications arise when you’re back home in Tulsa?

These are all the kind of questions you should think about and take advice on before committing to treatment.

Thinning Hair Helpers

medical tourism Recommended hospitals n Bumrungrad International

33 Sukhumvit 3 (Soi Nana Nua) | 02667-1000 | www.bumrungrad.com n Samitivej Sukhumvit 133 Sukhumvit 39 | 02-711-8000 | www.samitivejhospitals.com n BNH Hospital 9/1 Convent Road | 02-686-2700 | www.bnhhospital.com n Bangkok Hospital 2 Soi Soonvijai 7, New Petchburi Road | 02-310-3000 | www.bangkokhospital.com

FEATURED medical treatment

Is your forehead twice the size it used to be? Constantly reaching for that baseball cap before you head out the door? You’re in good company – the balding have battled their fates for centuries. Ancient Egyptians imbibed a mix of iron, onions, alabaster and honey to keep their locks luxurious. And Hippocrates found that castration before puberty left eunuchs a thick head of hair.

Luckily, the follicularly challenged need not resort to such drastic measures today. Bangkok abounds in treatments for thinning hair, from the gentle to the surgical. What remedy you choose depends on how serious you are about combating hair loss.

Folk wary of going under the knife can lather those tresses in special shampoos containing nioxin (B850). And Bangkok’s army of hairdressers is well versed in the art of hiding the bald spot – the high, lacquered hairdo of the “khunying” is the traditional recourse for society matrons of a certain age eager to mimic an ample head of hair.

Indeed, salons such as Fan Fan on Sukhumvit 31 (02-662-2569) do a brisk trade in perms (B3,500+) for women battling hormonal changes, says hairdresser Jintana Thabchan.For those who are truly alarmed about their hair loss, hair transplants can point the way forward. These minor operations take three hours and redistribute the hair-producing follicles around the sides and back of the head to Bangkok Hospital the front and top, lending the illusion of thicker hair.

Hospitals well-versed in the procedure such as Bangkok General Hospital perform around 200 a year for B120 per cm², half to foreigners. After a threeday recovery period, feel free to ditch that baseball cap for your brand-new head of hair. health & wellness

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Sports

sports MASTER MUAY THAI! Many a champ started out punching mitts at one of Bangkok’s many muay Thai schools. Some are livein training camps, others geared towards drop-in sessions, but all will train you up and teach you how to deflect – and deliver – the basic moves, be it kick, jab, elbow, foot thrust or standing grapple.

Beginners and female pugilists are welcome, though they often receive inordinate attention from the coming-of-age combatants. n Chacrit Muay Thai School Washington Square next to Sukhumvit Soi 22 | 02-260-5816 www.chacritmuaythaischool.com n Fairtex Muaythai RCA 149 3rd Fl. RCA Driving Range, Local Rd. | 02-203-1443 | www.muaythaifairtex.com n The International Muay Thai School 22/8 Moo 8, Soi 10, Pracharaj Sai1 Road, Bangsue | 02-585-6807 www.geocities.com/maimuangkorn/ eng_mai.htm n Muay Thai Institute 336/932 Prahonyothin 118 Vipravadee Road, Rangsit | 02-9920096-99 | www.muaythai-institute.net n Muaythai Sasiprapa 401 Soi Ladprao 130 Klongchan, Bangkapi | 02-378-0270 | www.muaythaisasiprapa.com

Muay Thai Institute

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THAI BOXING venueS Lumphini Boxing Stadium Rama IV Rd, next to Suan Lum Night Bazaar | MRT Lumphini | 02-251-4303, 02-252-8765 | Fights Tue & Fri from 6:30pm10:30pm, Sat 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000) สนามมวยลุมพินี ถ.พระราม 4

ติดกับสวนลุมไนท์ บาซ่าร์

Fairtex

MUAY THAI (Thai Boxing) Thai boxing, or muay Thai, is very popular in Bangkok with most major bouts held at either the Lumphini or Ratchadamnoen stadium. This brutal but graceful martial art has been practised in Thailand for centuries.

Past kings are reported to have been champion fighters and one, King Naresuan, introduced the sport as part of military training in the 16th century. Due to the high incidence of deaths during combat, the sport was banned in the 1920s but reintroduced soon after under the more safetyconscious Queensbury rules. Bouts consist of three five minute rounds during which the fighters use every part of the body (except the head) to bludgeon the opponent into defeat.

Before the bout begins, a graceful and mesmerising ritual dance named ram muay is performed by both fighters to placate the spirits and show respect to the art and its teachers. Bouts are extremely boisterous, noisy affairs and should be witnessed for the spectacle alone. Be warned though, this isn’t the WWF, the blows are hard hitting, the blood real. spor ts

Ratchadamnoen Stadium Ratchadamnoen Nok Avenue | 02-281-4205, 02-280-1684-6 | Fights Mon, Wed, Thu 6:30pm11pm, Sun 5pm-8pm, 8:30pmmidnight | B1,000 B1,500 B2,000

เวทีมวยราชดำเนิน ถ.ราชดำเนิน

TAKRAW (Kick Volleyball) Go to Lumphini Park (see p.37) on any given day and watch sweaty Thais combine the skills of volleyball, football and gymnastics. As many as two dozen men pair off to leap and dive through the air with one objective in mind: without using their hands, keep a rattan ball from hitting the ground on their net side. The diverse mix of players – tuk-tuk drivers, security guards and students – says much about the widespread Thai love of takraw, the most beautiful Asian game. Played since the 11th century, it has spread throughout the region, but nowhere is it played with as much relish as here, where it fills stadiums.The sport’s killer move, the somersault scissor kick, can send the ball hurtling back over the net at amazing speeds. Watch in awe. bangkok 101

Spiceroads

Active Sports AEROBICS It might be hard to imagine, but every day, busy Bangkokians find the time for some energising aerobics – out in the open. Many practise graceful, meditative t’ai chi moves just after sunrise. And head to any park in the city around 5-6pm and you’ll spot large groups of office workers, kids and the elderly doing a hi-energy, Jane Fonda style workout in synch with blaring pop-techno songs and an enthusiastic coach clad in spandex.

The best places for the free classes are the centrally located Lumphini Park and the smaller Benjasiri Park (next to The Emporium, Sukhumvit Rd, BTS Phrom Phong). Others, a bit off the beaten path, include Rommaninat Park (Siriphong Rd, near the Giant Swing), Saranrom Park (Thaiwang Rd) near the Grand Palace and Santiphap Park (Soi Rangnam). Never mind the possibility of fainting – simply join in!

BOWLING Bowling is a favourite pastime among Thais. Most shopping malls have topof- the-line tenpin alleys on-site and many of these teeter dangerously close to being a nightclub with full bars and closing times after midnight.

During after-hours, bowling alleys often have a DJ blasting thumping tunes, and they’ll often kill the lights and flood the halls with black light for a particularly psychedelic experience. Great spots to get your bowl on include trendy Blu-O at Siam Paragon and Esplanade, which also has platinum rooms for rent for your own private area and lane for your party. Also worth mentioning is the Major Bowl atop posh J-Avenue in Thong Lor, and also SF Strike Bowl in good ol’ MBK. bangkok 101

CYCLING SpiceRoads 14/1-B Soi Promsi 2 | Sukhumvit 39 | 02-712-5305, 089- 895-5680 | www. spiceroads.com This company has been organising bicycle tours in Southeast Asia for over 12 years, and it offers extraordinary day tours in the outskirts of Bangkok.

The daytrips take you to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, Koh Kred, around Bangkok’s old city, Chinatown or along atmospheric canals through Bang Krachao, an unspoilt rural peninsula just across the river. They usually start early in the day (pick-up from your hotel is included). The rides, organised throughout the week, are demanding but fun. Groups are held small (two to 16 participants), but private tailormade itineraries are also possible, even for seriously adrenalineparched mountain bikers who are up for a technical 30km nailbiter.

SpiceRoads also offers two-and three-day trips around Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and in the Mae Khlong Delta south of Bangkok; it also organises much longer trips in Thailand and its neighbours.

ICE SKATING SUB-ZERO ICE SKATE CLUB (map D2) Ratchadaphisek Rd, Esplanade 4F | MRT Thailand Cultural Centre | 02354-2134 This isn’t a boring sterile rink, more spor ts

like a nightclub on ice. Popular among youngsters, its 682m2 of fluorescent ice lights up at night when Sub Zero morphs into an “Ice Bar” with DJs and strobe lights blasting the floor. For the novice, there are pros on hand with lessons ranging from speed skating, figure skating, ice skating and even hockey. Lessons are B900-2,400 and the complex has a fully stocked pro shop if you want brand new blades of glory. Even if you just want to have a look there are bars ringside, and of course they are made of ice! And this is Thailand so of course there’s karaoke on-site.

TENNIS Lumphini Park Youth Centre (map C4) Soi Klang Racquet Club Sukhumvit Soi 49-9 (map E4) National Stadium Rama I Rd (map C3) Smash it down the line as tennis has become one of the most popular sports in all of Thailand, with local ace Paradorn Srichaphan bearing much of the responsibility for inducing hordes of Thais to pick up the racquet and start practising their serves. Many of the leading hotels offer an in-house court for you but if you’d like to get out among the people, there are quite a few public courts around town that you can use for free or for a small fee. Also towards the end of their respective seasons Bangkok hosts two tournaments, the ATP’s Thailand Open and the WTA’s Bangkok Open.

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Courses&Ser vices

courses

apron, knives and wok, each student works at a personal cooking station in a spacious kitchen after short, informative demonstrations. Lunch consists of your own cooking plus additional dishes.

No reason to limit yourself to just tom yam goong and phad thai – each session includes four innovative dishes; the selection changes daily. Perfect for tourists on a short Bangkok stint. บลู เอเลแฟนท์ ถ. สาทรใต้

Baipai

COOKING CLASSES BAIPAI COOKING SCHOOL (map C4) 150/12 Soi Naksuwan, Nonsee Road, Chong Nonsi | 02-294-9029 | www.baipai.com No sitting back and just watching at this leafy two-storey townhouse. Shortly after being picked up from your hotel, passed an apron and given a brief demonstration of how to cook four dishes it’s over to you. Fortunately the breezy open-plan workshop, individual cooking stations and pre-prepped ingredients mean cooking here is no chore. Plus the staff are smiley and professional, as they answer your questions (“But what if I can’t find kaffir lime leaves?” etc) and ensure you don’t singe your spring rolls. Later you get to feast on the fruits of your labour – so do your research on the seven set menus if you’re allergic to tom yum. Some takehome recipes and a souvenir fridge magnet featuring a snap of you in action completes the four-hour morning or afternoon experience; one so palatable and productive and, gasp, fun that many come back for seconds.

รร.สอนทำอาหารไทยใบพาย ถ.นนทรี

BLUE ELEPHANT (map B4) Thai Chine Building, 233 South Sathorn Rd | 02-673-9353 | www.blueelephant. com | from B2,800 The class offered at this classy restaurant is very hands-on and easy to follow. The morning class is preferable since it starts with a visit to the Bang Rak market with the chef, where you’re shown the ingredients you’ll use later. Equipped with 114

(รถไฟฟ้าสุรศักดิ์)

THAI MASSAGE CLASSES WAT PO THAI TRADITIONAL MEDICAL SCHOOL (map A3) 2 Sanamchai Rd | 02-622-3551, 02622-3533 | www.watpomassage.com | daily 8am – 5pm | B8,500/30hrs Any good spa therapist will have undergone their training in traditional Thai massage at this temple school.

Constructed in a concealed building away from the tourist-infested but peaceful Wat Po temple grounds, the instruction area is more functional than stylish, but the efficient course run by competent instructors more than makes up for the missing luxury. Thai massage, an ancient form of healing, uses pressure application on the various body meridians. Your costudents will mainly be Thai and Japanese, along with the odd Westerner. The 30hour course can be completed in five, six or ten days; a foot reflexology course and other instruction are available too.

The tired tourist can also get Bangkok’s best Thai massage in fan-cooled, opensided salas for just B360/hour.

โรงเรียนแพทย์แผนโบราณ วัดพระเชตุพน ถ. สนามชัย

CHIVA-SOM INTERNATIONAL ACADEMY (map E4) Modern Town Bldg, 87/104 Ekamai Rd, Sukhumvit Soi 63 | BTS Ekkamai | 02711-5270-3 | www.chivasomacademy. com | from B9,000 Asia’s premier training centre for spa and holistic therapies offers intensive courses covering all aspects of spa-ing, from anatomy and Thai massage to stress management. Held in peaceful surroundings and conducted by skilled cour ses & ser vices

Wat Po

international instructors, half the time is spent on theory and practice, the other half is filled with case studies. The academy takes its instruction seriously; students receive internationally accepted accreditation on completion of courses. The high but justified prices range from B9,000 (two-day reiki course) to B59,000 (spa development course). Most courses are too long for a usual holiday (two to four weeks), but there are one-week courses available in reflexology and shiatsu. ชีวาศรม อินเตอร์เนชันแนล อะคาเดมี

โมเดิร์นทาวน์ 87/104 ถ.สุขุมวิท 63

MEDITATION CLASSES INTERNATIONAL BUDDHIST MEDITATION CENTRE (map A3) Wat Mahathat, Na Phra Lan Rd | 02-2226011 | www.mcu.ac.th/mcu/eng | free This is the most traditional, noncommercial meditation class, based on Vipassana (‘insight’) mindfulness. For Buddhists, meditation is essential to cleanse the mind and accomplish clarity and inner peace. Close to Sanam Luang, the atmospheric temple complex is the teaching centre of Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of Thailand’s highest seats of Buddhist learning. Daily classes conducted in English (1pm-4pm, 6pm-8pm, 7pm-10pm) are mixed; you’ll find monks, locals and tourists here.

Participants can stay on the compound in simple, quiet rooms; complimentary meals are provided. Bring offerings of flowers, a candle and nine incense sticks for the opening ceremony. Donations are accepted. Retreats of three or more days are available as well. Perfect for a serious, but short stint into Buddhist meditation.

สำนักกองกลางวิปัสนา วัดมหาธาตุ ถ. หน้าพระลาน

bangkok 101

Want to shore up your karma reserves? Even if you’re only visiting Thailand for a short time, there are plenty of worthwhile causes that rely on public support for their services. In each issue of Bangkok 101, we highlight the work of a local charitable organisation, along with details on how you can help.

making merit

o

The Surin Project Though it sounds a bit like a sinister genome experiment, this month’s Making Merit is actually about giving Thailand’s exploited pachyderms a helping hand.

An established non-profit organisation called the Elephant Nature Foundation is looking for volunteers to help in the founding of something called The Surin Project: a 2,000 acre elephant park in Northeast Thailand’s Surin Province.

Once finished, up to 300 elephants will be able to roam free in natural habitat. That’s roughly 10% of the number now in captivity, either begging on city streets (a shameful practice that reduces an elephant’s life expectancy by 50%) or performing tricks at circuses that really should know better. Meanwhile their mahouts will be provided with

bangkok 101

an income as recompense for the money they used to earn begging, thereby encouraging them to keep their elephants at the park.

Opt to volunteer and over the course of one week you’ll help reforest a scrubland, destroyed by decades of logging, into suitable elephant habitat.

You’ll also be involved in community development. And, of course, have lots of time to feed and bathe the elephants and watch them enjoying their newfound freedom.

How do you get up there?

Conveniently, all groups meet in Bangkok and travel together to the project site. Transportation costs to and from the site, food, accommodation and activities, along with an English speaking guide and project leader are all included in the B12,000 volunteer fee. cour ses & ser vices

You also have the option of travelling with the group for a second week of volunteering at the foundation’s original and well-known conversation project north of Chiang Mai, the Elephant Nature Park. It’s worth noting that daytrips and overnights stays are also available here, all proceeds going towards keeping it going.

Forthcoming Surin Project volunteer groups start in Bangkok on December 14th, December 28th and January 11th and last for seven days and six nights. Full details of what to bring will be provided to you on booking.

For details on how to sign up email surin@elephantnaturefoundation. org or log on to www.elephantnaturefoundation.org

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Business

business In Bangkok on business? Rest assured it brings a lot to the table.

Convention centres, ritzy hotels, world-class wine-and-dine spots... it’s little wonder it’s a regional hub for MICE (Meetings and Incentives, Conferences and Exhibitions), especially when you factor in the myriad down-time attractions. We dig up all the basics so that you don’t have to.

Business Travellers Top on the list after you’ve touched down is, of course, a hotel.There are lots to choose from, in every location, but those that tick every business-traveller box include The Conrad, Sofitel Silom, Westin Grande and Sheraton Grande.

Bangkok’s traffic has a justifiably miserable reputation, but having a car at your disposal can be handy.

Try Limousine Thailand (www. limousinethailand.com). And if your hotel room isn’t cutting it as a makeshift office, then contact temporary office providers Regus (www.regus.co.th) or Servcorp (www.servcorp.net).

There’s rarely a quiet moment on the local trade fair scene. For a rundown, see www.thaitradefair.com. Or perhaps you’re considering staging your company’s big meet or team get-away here? If so, talk to the Thailand Convention & Exhibition Bureau (www.tceb.or.th).

They say it’s who you know – not what you know. To get your face out there, join one of the networking events hosted by Bangkok Young Professionals (www.mobyelite.com/byp) or others. If you’re short on business cards – and you will be after a night at the aforementioned – try one of the many one-stopshops at MBK shopping mall.

It’s also worth reading up on Thailand’s face-saving and, often quirky, business culture.Try Working with the Thais: A Guide to Managing in Thailand by Henry Holmes and Suchada Tangtongtavy (White Lotus, B495).

Finally, note that any foreigner working, or doing business here, must have a non-immigrant B visa and a work permit. If your company hasn’t arranged both, go to www.immigration.go.th and find out what you need. Or contact a business solutions provider like Sunbelt Asia – they’ll do all the paperwork so that you don’t have to.

Starting Up Frequently voted one of the world’s best cities, it’s no surprise that so many look to set up shop in Bangkok. However, bear in mind that although Thailand opened it doors wide to foreign investment after the Asian Financial Crisis of 1997, it can still be a tricky place to establish a business.

The best advice is to find local experts to help you clear the regulatory hurdles. Business solutions provider Sunbelt Asia (www.sunbeltasia.com) offers everything from upfront legal advice to business brokerage and serviced offices.

Similarly, Bangkok Base (www.bangkokbase.com) is a 360° provider of business support. Chambers of commerce can also offer advice and assistance in finding partners.

There are also a few books on the market. One of the best is Philip Wylie’s How to Establish a Successful Business in Thailand. In it you will find the essentials on the minutiae of business in Thailand, from negotiating baffling bureaucracy and legal peculiarities to cultural codes and social etiquette.

Business spotlight

The P&L CLUB

In addition to being a good deal closer, a successful businessman should also look the part and know how to unwind – in style.The P&L Club is a place where you can do both: a small gentlemen’s club where you can get a suave Cary Grant haircut before your meeting, and enjoy a well-earned puff on Havana’s finest afterwards. And in members-only privacy. Sit back in the Sweeney Todd-style leather chairs (from Japan of all places) and let the veteran 75-year-old barber Where Conrad Bangkok GF, give you the best hot towel shave you All Seasons Place, 87 Wireless ever had.Take your pick from the single Road, 02-685-3898 Open Monmalt whisky bar (all from Scotland, Thu 10am-10pm, Fri-Sat 10amnaturally). And while on your way to a 11pm, Sun noon-6pm leather chair in the tasting room, stop in at the Cohiba Humidor and pick up a Montecristo, Cohiba or some other chunky Cuban cigar. If you want in, there are three membership tiers available: a B20k membership gives you that amount on credit; spend B50k and you’re awarded an extra B5k; B100,000 an extra B20k. Members are allowed to bring guests (women, despite the decidedly masculine overtones, are welcome); and though there are opening hours, we’re told you can stay as late as you like.

รร.คอนราด ถ.วิทยุ

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business

bangkok 101

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60 Soi Langsuan, Lumpini, Pathumwan Bangkok, 10330 Thailand Tel: 66 2 6721234 Fax: 66 2 6721235 Visit www.marriott.com/bkker

Reference

survival thai Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20 21 22 30 40 100 101 110 200 1,000 1,100 5,000 10,000 15,000 50,000 100,000 1,000,000

˘ soon nèung ˘ song ˘ saam sèe hâa hòk jèt pàet kâo sìp sìp èt ˘ sìp song yêe sìp yêe sìp èt ˘ yêe sìp song ˘ saam sìp sèe sìp (nèung) rói (nèung) rói èt (nèung) rói sìp ˘ rói song (nèung) phan (nèung) phan nèung rói hâa phan (nèung) meùun nèung meùun hâa phan hâa meùun ˘ (nèung) saen (nèung) láan

Basics yes no I you

châi / khráp / khâ mâi châi ˘ / (di)chán phom khun

Communication I don’t understand I can’t speak Thai never mind possible / impossible

mâi khâo jai phôot thai mâi dâi mâi pen rai dâi / mâi dâi

A

lthough it is not really necessary to learn Thai for a short stay in Thailand, as most Thais who deal with tourists speak some English, you will have an undoubtedly more enjoyable experience if you make the effort to remember a few words.

Basic Thai grammar is considerably simpler than the grammar in western languages. Sentences are reduced to the basic subject-verb-object format (no tenses, plurals, genders or subject-verb agreement).

The main difficulty comes from the fact that Thai is a tonal language, meaning that words can have different meanings depending on how they are pronounced. Five tones are used: low tone ( ` ), middle tone (unmarked), high tone ( ´ ), falling tone ( ˆ ) and rising tone ( ˇ ).

Did you know? khráp and khâ You should end your sentences with khráp if you are a man and khâ if you are a woman: this is the polite way of addressing people in Thailand. Both words are also used to say “yes”.

Thai script Thai script was introduced during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng in 1283, and has hardly changed since then.

Like English, the Thai language has an alphabet and is written from left to right. The main difference is that there are no spaces between words, no punctuation and no capital letters. Moreover, the Thai alphabet consists of 44 consonants and 32 vowels.

Greetings and civilities

Adjectives and adverbs

hello / hi / goodbye how are you?

I’m fine and you? pardon? sorry / excuse me thank you (very much)

beautiful big / small expensive good here/there

hot / cold a little a lot / much / very

118

sa-wàt dee sa-bai dee réu sa-bai dee láew khun lâ arai ná kho˘ thôt khòp khun (mâak)

reference

˘ suay yài / lék paeng dee têe nêe/ têe nân rón / yen nîtnòi mâak

Transportation canal street, lane pier road temple

khlong soi thâa ˘ (th) thanon wát

to... please pai... mái > the ... hotel > rong raem ... ˘ > the airport > sa-naam bin ˘ > the train station > sa-taa-nee rót fai > the bus station > bo ko˘ so˘ ˘ ˘ > the police station > sa- taa-nee tumruat > this address > têe yòo née ˘ ... > the ... restaurant > ráan aahaan use the meter turn left / right go straight on stop here please

chái mée-têr ˘ lée-ow sáay/ khwaa trong pai jòt têe nêe

Shopping how much is it? an-née thâo rài that’s (a bit) too expensive paeng pai

Food rice fried rice water tea coffee spicy is it very spicy? not spicy without chilli delicious

khâo khâo pàd náam plào chaa kafae phèt phèt mâak mái mâi phèt mâi sài prik arròy

Questions where? when? what? which? (thing) where is / are...? how much / many?

˘ têe nai mêua-rài ˘ arai ˘ an-nai ... yòo têe nai thâo rài

bangkok 101

USEFUL PHONE NUMBERS Metropolitan Mobile Police 191 Crime 195 Traffic Control Centre 197 Fire 199 Tourist Assistance Centre 02-281-5051 Tourist Police 1155 Highway Police 1193 Medical Emergency 1669 LOST CREDIT CARD CALL CENTRES American Express 02-273-5544 (8am8pm) / 02-273-5522 (after 8pm) MasterCard 02-260-8572 Visa 02-273-1199 or 02-273-7449 MEDICAL EMERGENCY Bangkok Hospital 02-310-3000 BNH Hospital 02-686-2700 Bumrungrad Hospital 02-667-1000 Samitivej Hospital 02-711-8000 St. Louis Hospital 02-675-5000 Thai Nakarin Hospital 02-361-2727 Dental Hospital 02-260-5000/15 TELEPHONE SERVICES Bangkok Directory Inquiries 1133 Domestic Long Distance 101 International Long Distance 100 Overseas Subscribers Call 001 TOURISM OFFICES TAT Call Centre 1672 (8am-8pm) TAT Tourist Information 4 Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd; 02-282- 9773, 02-2505500 | daily 8:30am- 4:30pm Tourism Authority of Thailand 1600 New Phetchaburi Rd | 02- 250-5500 | www.tat.or.th; www. tourismthailand.org Bangkok Tourism Division 171/1 Phra Athit Rd | 02-225-7612/4 | www. bangkoktourist.com IMMIGRATION DEPARTMENT 507 Soi Suan Plu, off South Sathorn Rd | 02-287-3101 | Mon-Fri 8am- 4pm EMBASSIES Australia 37 South Sathorn Rd | 02344-6300 | www.austembassy.or.th Canada Abdulrahim Place 15F, 990 Rama IV Rd | 02-636-0540 | www.bangkokinternational.gc.ca bangkok 101

Cambodia 185 Ratchadamri Rd | 02957-5851-2 | RECBKK@hotmail.com China 57 Ratchadaphisek Rd, Din Daeng | 02-245-7043/4 | www.chinaembassy.or.th India 46 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 23 | 02258- 0300/5 | www.indianembassy. gov.in/bangkok Indonesia 600-602 Phetchaburi Rd | 02-252-3135/40 Japan 177 Wireless Rd | 02-696-3000, 02-207-8500 | www.th.emb-japan.go.jp Laos 520, 502/1-3 Wang Thonglang Rd | 02-539-6667 | www.bkklaoembassy. com Malaysia 33-35 South Sathorn Rd | 02-679-2190/5 Myanmar 132 North Sathorn Rd | 02233-2237, 02-234-4698, 02-234-4789 | mebkk@asianet.co.th New Zealand M Thai Tower, 14F All Seasons Place, 87 Witthayu Rd | 02-254-2530 | www.nzembassy.com Philippines 760 Sukhumvit Rd | 02-259-0139/40 | www.philembassybangkok.net Singapore 129 South Sathorn Rd | 02-286-2111 United Kingdom 1031 Witthayu Rd | 02-305-8333 | www.ukinthailand. fco.gov.uk U.S.A. 120-122 Witthayu Rd | 02205-4000; www.usa.or.th/embassy Vietnam 83/1 Witthayu Rd | 02-251-5836 TRANSPORT PLANE Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport Call Centre 02-132-1888 Bangkok Airways 02-265-5555 | www.bangkokair.com Air Asia Suvarnabhumi International Airport A1-062 FG, Concourse A | 02-5159999 | www.airasia.com Thai Airways Int’l Suvarnabhumi International Airport F4, Row F | 02-356-1111 | www.thaiair.com

contacts SKYTRAIN/SUBWAY BTS Skytrain Call Centre 02-612-2444 | www.bts.co.th MRT Subway Call Centre 02-354-2000 BUS Call Centre 02-576-5599 Northern & Northeastern Bus Terminal Phahonyothin Rd, Mor Chit Southern Bus Terminal Boromrat Chonnani Rd Sai Tai Eastern Bus Terminal Sukhumvit Rd (Ekkamai)

Surfing BKK There’s a million websites out there, all desperate for a good quick click – but these are the only ones we would take home to meet our mum. n www.1stopbangkok.com Everything you wanted to know about Bangkok but were afraid to ask. n www.thaivisa.com General, boring, immigration type stuff and an entertaining messageboard. n www.bangkokartmap.com Find out where the pretty pictures and free wine’s at. n www.paknamweb.com Blogs, blogs and more blogs. Everything from the Thai lottery to sizzling streetfood. n www.movieseer.com Popcorn? Check. Emergency sweater? Check. Showtimes?

Check here!

MRT

TRAIN State Railway | www.railway.co.th Bangkok Railway Station (Hua Lamphong) Rama IV Rd | Call Centre 1690 reference

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Reference

getting around

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angkok’s heaving traffic is legendary, presenting a constant challenge for residents and visitors to the city. River and canal boats, along with the BTS skytrain and MRT subway systems, offer some reliable alternatives to getting jammed on the road. Nonetheless, traffic remains horrendous, particularly mid-week. Below is a layman’s guide to inner-city transport options. anywhere in town for as low as B10, it’s part of a setup that will lead you to an overpriced souvenir or jewellery shop. It would be wise to decline any such offers.

MOTORCYCLE TAXI In Bangkok’s heavy traffic, motorcycle taxis are the fastest, albeit most dangerous, form of road transport.

Easily recognisable by their colourful vests, motorbike taxi drivers gather in groups by department stores, at the end of long sois or by tourist spots.

As with tuk-tuks, fares definitely have to be negotiated beforehand.

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ROAD TAXI Bangkok has thousands of metered, air-con taxis available 24 hours. Flag fall is B35 (for the first 2kms) and the fare climbs in B2 increments. Be sure the driver switches the metre on. No tipping is required, but rounding the fare up to the nearest B5 or B10 is common. Additional passengers are not charged, nor is baggage. For trips to/from the airport, the passengers should pay the expressway toll fees.

When boarding from the public taxi queue outside the terminal, a B50 surcharge is added to the metered fare.

TUK-TUK Those three-wheeled taxis (or samlor) are best known as tuk-tuks, named for the steady whirr of their engines. They are popular amongst tourists and can be fun for short trips around town. A 10-minute ride should cost around B40, but always bargain before boarding. Beware: if a tuk-tuk driver offers to deliver you

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BUS Bangkok has an extensive and inexpensive public bus service. Both open-air and air-conditioned vehicles are available, respectively for B5 and B7.50-23 Pink-white mini-buses are a little more expensive (B25 per person) but seats are guaranteed. As most destinations are noted only in Thai, it is advisable to get a bus route map (available at hotels, TAT offices and bookshops).

RAIL SKYTRAIN The Bangkok Transit System, or BTS, is a two-line elevated train network covering the major commercial areas.

Trains run every few minutes from 6am to midnight, making the BTS a quick and reliable transport option, especially during heavy traffic jams.

Fares range from B15 to B40; special tourist passes allowing unlimited travel for one day (B120) is available.

BTS also provides free shuttle buses which transit passengers to and from stations and nearby areas. www.bts. co.th

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SUBWAY Bangkok’s Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) is another fast and reliable way to get across town. The 18-station line stretches 20kms from Hualamphong (near the central railway station) up to Bang Sue in the north. Subways run from 6am to midnight daily, with trains arriving every 5-7 minutes.

The underground connects with the BTS at MRT Silom/BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Sukhumvit/BTS Asok and MRT Chatuchak Park/BTS Mo Chit stations. Subway fares range from B15 to B39. www.bangkokmetro. co.th RIVER (also see River Tourism on p.24) EXPRESS RIVER BOAT Bangkok’s vast network of inter-city waterways offer a quick and colourful alternative for getting around the city.

Express boats ply the Chao Phraya River from the Saphan Taksin Bridge up to Nonthaburi, stopping at some 30 main piers. Fares range from B9 to B32 depending on the distance.

Tickets can either be bought on the boat or at the pier. Boats depart every 20 minutes or so between 5:30am and 6pm. Cross-river services operate throughout the day at each pier for the modest sum of B3.

CANAL BOAT Khlong Saen Saep canal boats operate from Banglamphu across the city to Ramkhamhaeng University. Canal (khlong) boats tend to be frequent and cost around B8 to B18. Tickets are bought onboard. Note that the piers are a little hidden away, which makes them sometimes difficult to find.

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