1882: Volume 3 EN | Symington Family Estates

Second and third generation Symingtons at the company head office, Vila Nova de Gaia in 1969.

From left to right: Maurice and Ron (second generation in Portugal), Michael, Ian, James and Peter (third generation).

LETTER FROM THE (RETIRING) CHAIRMAN

THE SYMINGTON FAMILY IN PORTUGAL

We chart the family’s journey in their adopted country, from the arrival of Andrew James Symington in 1882 to the present day.

REFLECTIONS ON THE PAST, SHAPING THE FUTURE

Johnny Symington reflects on his 40 years in the wine trade and looks to the future.

OUR ISLAND SOJOURN

António Filipe looks back at our two-decade involvement with the wines of Madeira, 1989-2010.

A LASTING DEDICATION TO FELLS

Steve Moody, recently retired Managing Director of J.E. Fells, shares his insights on his 30-year long career in the Symington Family’s UK wine distribution company, which he helped to successfully transform into one of the country’s most respected fine wine distributors.

THE BRITISH FACTORY HOUSE OF PORTO

Rupert Symington, Treasurer of the Factory House in 2024, recounts the fascinating history and traditions of the Factory House in Porto, the last of its kind anywhere in the world.

EASTERN PROMISE

Jorge Nunes, Asia Pacific Market Manager, looks back at his experiences in the Southeast Asia and Asia Pacific regions, developing the market for port and other Symington wines.

ATAÍDE WINERY: DÉBUT VINTAGE AND LEED CERTIFICATION

Our new dream winery was concluded just in time for its inaugural vintage in 2023, and in 2024 the facility was awarded LEED certification, the first winery in Portugal to receive it.

FRUITS OF STRUGGLE, NEW BEGINNINGS AND BACK TO THE FUTURE

An overview of the 2022, 2023 and 2024 harvests.

Vértice · Acquisition of a 50% stake in Caves Transmontanas

Quinta do Vesúvio · Bicentenary Celebration

Casa de Rodas · Mendes & Symington Partnership

Matriarca · Clube de Enófilos · Symington Club for Portuguese wine enthusiasts

Hambledon Vineyard · Pioneering English Sparkling Wine Producer

The Vintage Port Day · London · Our annual celebration of Vintage Port, promoting and raising the profile of the category

Douro Somm Camp

Rebel Port Club · Pop-up bar in downtown Porto

Cockburn’s ‘A La Mesa’ · A Feast Of Gastronomic Delights In The Cockburn’s Lodge In Gaia

Symington Energy Community

Retirement Of Long Serving Colleagues

Pequeno Dilema

Ilustres Desconhecidos

Quinta da Fonte Souto Alicante Bouschet

Bom Malandro

Taifa

2022 Quinta Vintage Port

Graham’s 50-Year-Old Tawny

2003 Library Release Vintage Ports

Casa de Rodas

Cockburn’s Range Relaunch

Quinta do Vesúvio · 200th Anniversary Collector’s Edition

Graham’s 1974 Single Harvest Tawny Port

Taifa (Quinta da Fonte Souto) 2020

Quinta da Fonte Souto 2019

Quinta do Vesúvio 2020 Douro DOC

Chryseia 2020 DOC Douro

Chryseia 2021 DOC Douro

Chryseia 2022 DOC Douro

Graham’s 2021 The Stone Terraces Vintage Port

Graham’s 50-Year-Old Port

Warre’s 2020 Vinhas Velhas Vintage Port

Dow’s 40-Year-Old Tawny

Dow’s 2018 Late Bottled Vintage Port

Cockburn’s 20-Year-Old Tawny

Quinta do Vesúvio Capela 2022 Vintage Port

Symington Family Estates · The World’s Most Admired Wine Brands - 2023

Quinta do Bomfim · World’s Best Vineyards 2024

Symington Family Estates · Green Company of The Year 2024

LETTER FROM THE (RETIRING) CHAIRMAN

JOHNNY SYMINGTON

Dear friends and partners,

It is my pleasure to introduce the third edition of Symington Family Estates 1882 magazine. By the time you read these lines, I will be embracing a new phase in my life, content and confident in the knowledge that I have handed over the chairmanship to the very capable hands of my cousin Rupert.

Over the last two years we have navigated some choppy waters swelled by inflation, high interest rates, ongoing supply chain issues, difficult trading conditions, shifting consumer perceptions and expectations, continuing wars and climate change related concerns. However, through all these challenges our company has shown characteristic strength and resilience, and our family’s values and long-term mindset have steered further and varied investments, which reflect our optimism for the future and a grounded confidence in consolidating our legacy for the next generations.

Recently, we have seen a much-improved sales performance, particularly for premium ports and DOC wines. The highly successful launch of Graham’s 50-Year-Old Tawny is a typical example of how well-crafted authentic premium ports are held in high regard. Portugal continues to post good sales figures for our ports and wines in difficult market conditions, and many of our export markets have seen encouraging growth in recent times.

Despite all the headwinds, there were very positive developments in the strategic and fast-growing wine tourism pillar of our company, the visitor centres; Cockburn’s, Graham’s and Quinta do Bomfim and the Bomfim 1896 and Vinum restaurants all delivering remarkable growth and making significant contributions to the business through 2023 and 2024. As Porto and the Douro continue to gain traction as tourist destinations, we have exciting new projects in the pipeline, both in Porto and the Douro – watch this space.

We have diversified our wine portfolio through the 50% stake taken in Caves Transmontanas in the Douro, producer of one of Portugal’s finest sparkling wines –Vértice. This represents a very exciting development for us as we are now present in all three of the Douro’s wines: port, Douro DOC and Douro sparkling wine. The growing interest in sparkling wines, both in Portugal and internationally, and the opportunity to build on the already high reputation of Vértice, fuelled the motivation for our expansion into this category.

Johnny Symington Quinta dos Malvedos Spring 2024.

Our interest in sparkling wines was not confined to Portugal, and in November 2023 we acquired, jointly with Berry Bros & Rudd, Hambledon Vineyard, the first English sparkling wine producer established in 1952. Aside from reflecting our confidence in the worldwide growth of sparkling wine, this 50% stake in Hambledon Vineyard also represented our first wine venture outside Portugal. Hambledon’s high reputation in the UK and in some of the most promising sparkling wine markets gives us a unique opportunity to play a part in the growth of this category around the world. The joint acquisition with Berry Bros. & Rudd made total sense, as it too is a multi-generational family company with whom we have shared values, a great pool of expertise, a clear commercial vision as well as a long-standing friendship.

Further diversification of our wine portfolio came with the acquisition of Casa de Rodas, a fine, historic estate with a beautiful 16th century manor in the Monção & Melgaço subregion of the Vinho Verde appellation. The 27.5-hectare vineyard, planted exclusively with Alvarinho, was another significant step towards Symington Family Estates long-term strategic ambition to have a foothold in quality wine in some of the main wine regions of Portugal. Simultaneously, we formalised an agreement with celebrated Vinho Verde producer, Anselmo Mendes, to become winemaker and viticultural consultant for the estate. This development was reinforced a few months later, in May 2023, when we formed a joint venture with the Mendes family to jointly own and market the highly reputed Alvarinho brand, Contacto. The 50/50 Mendes & Symington partnership will also market the wines made at Casa de Rodas.

The family believe that Portugal still has considerable untapped potential as a wineproducing country, and we are determined to be at the forefront of strengthening its reputation, particularly in export markets where many Portuguese wine categories are still under-represented. We aim to be a leading premium producer in every region that we operate, and this alliance with Anselmo Mendes, one of the most accomplished Portuguese winemakers and one of the champions of the Alvarinho grape, will help us to achieve this goal in one of the country’s most well-known wine regions.

2023 also marked an exciting and seminal moment in our family’s commitment to sustainable winemaking and our Douro DOC ambitions. Following six years of detailed planning and construction, we opened our new low-impact winery, Adega do Ataíde, just in time for the 2023 harvest. It is one of the family’s most ambitious projects to date and reflects our confidence in the future of premium Douro DOC wines. We are very proud of this state-of-the-art winery, both from a sustainability aspect and through the innovative advances it represents for the production of the highest quality wines.

In April 2024, we received confirmation that Adega do Ataíde had become the first LEED certified winery in Portugal and only the third in Europe. This was a great source of pride for us given that Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design (LEED) is one of the highest-profile and globally recognised symbols of excellence in green building. Central to its purpose, through its robust framework for sustainable buildings, is contributing to the reduction of the impacts caused by global climate change – a philosophy that clearly resonates with our own sustainability roadmap.

We have been very dynamic in new product launches and concepts, having developed a successful line of premium Douro monovarietal white wines under the Ilustres Desconhecidos banner, which followed on from the well-received Pequeno Dilema white, specifically sourced from two of our finest high-altitude vineyards. Consumption of and interest in white wines has surged in recent years and we have shown that the Douro can also produce world class whites alongside the reds. In our Alentejo vineyard, Fonte Souto, which since its acquisition has proven its tremendous potential for high quality whites, we launched a top-flight white called Taifa, which generated enormous interest and rapturous reviews from wine critics. Unsurprisingly it sold out in less than two weeks.

Another landmark launch was Bom Malandro, a Douro DOC brand we created from scratch to fill the gap between our value, entry level offerings and our established higher premium wines. This was a very ambitious project – and investment –involving many teams across the company coming together to make the launch a great success. The good-humoured storytelling, slightly mischievous name and creative, edgy packaging immediately struck a chord with consumers and Bom Malandro is a clear example of how, in the midst of an adverse trading climate, we rolled up our sleeves and focused our energies on contriving an imaginative proposition which has found its niche in the market.

I trust you will enjoy reading this, the third edition of 1882. As always, there is a wealth of content reflecting the wide-ranging scope of our business and the positive attitude, dynamism and pride that we, family and staff alike, nurture across the company.

Johnny Symington Retiring Chairman · Symington Family Estates 4th generation port and wine producer

THE SYMINGTON FAMILY IN PORTUGAL

We chart the family’s journey in their adopted country, from the arrival of Andrew James Symington in 1882 to the present day.

Miguel Potes · July 2024

‘The young Andrew James could not have imagined as his ship steamed into Porto that he would soon be laying down strong roots in the distant country that his descendants call home to this day.’

When we published the first volume of this biennial magazine in 2020, consensus was swiftly reached among family members as to how it should be named: 1882. This was the year Andrew James Symington (‘AJ’), a 19-year-old Scot arrived in Porto to start work in W & J Graham & Co, a company of Scottish origin, which besides producing port also had a large textile business. The young Andrew James could not have imagined as his ship steamed into Porto that he would soon be laying down strong roots in the distant country that his descendants – five and six generations later – call home to this day.

AJ’s father, also named Andrew James Symington, came from a wealthy Glasgow family that owned a successful textile business, although he was himself a writer and traveller, not a businessman. He was married to Mary Edmondston from the remote Shetland Islands with whom he had five children, AJ being the eldest. Family fortunes suffered a considerable blow when the City of Glasgow Bank failed in 1878, sending shockwaves through the Scottish economy. Andrew James Symington senior had been appointed trustee of a substantial estate by a friend who had invested almost exclusively in the

Andrew James Symington and Beatriz de Carvalhosa Atkinson in the early 1890s.

bank. When it failed, he was responsible for the assets held in trust and was obliged to make good the losses suffered by the heir of the friend who had meanwhile passed away. Although not entirely ruined, he lost most of his fortune and turned to his friends, the Graham family with whom he hoped to secure a position for his oldest son. This entrepreneurial Glasgow-based family were also in textiles, besides having extensive business interests in India and Portugal. So it was that the young Andrew James left family and country behind to make a life for himself in Portugal.

Five years after arriving in his new home, AJ left Graham’s to set up his own port shipping business and in the late 1890s and into the early 1900s he became a partner in Tait, Rumsey & Symington in which he managed the port shipping side of that business.

1891 marked an important milestone in the Symington family’s close bond with their adopted country. AJ married the AngloPortuguese, Porto-born Beatriz Leitão de Carvalhosa Atkinson whose father, John Atkinson belonged to a long-established portshipping family and who had managed the respected port house

(Top) Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira, photographed in the early 1900s.

(Above) The twins, John and Ronald in 1909, attired in the family’s Clan Douglas Tartan.

of Offley Forrester for many years. On her mother’s side, Beatriz was descended from a long unbroken line of port producers stretching right back to the very foundations of the port trade in the mid-17th century (see family tree on page 24). Through this lineage, the Symington family today can trace their links to the port trade back 14 generations.

Beatriz was a strong and caring person, and raised her children in the traditional Portuguese way where close family ties and values are deeply ingrained. She was a loving mother, adored by her children who affectionately referred to her as minha from the Portuguese affectionate and respectful form of address: minha mãe (dearest mother). Although tragically dying young, aged just 46, she anchored the family very firmly in Portugal, particularly to the Douro wine country. At every opportunity, AJ and Beatriz would take their young family from their house in Porto to the Douro vineyards, nurturing their passion for the Douro countryside, its people and as they grew up, for the wines which were their very lifeblood.

(Top) Quinta do Bomfim, circa 1912.

(Above) The Dow’s Port Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia, circa 1908.

Laying the foundations of the family business

In 1905, Andrew James became a partner in Warre’s, the longest established British port house (founded in 1670) and by 1908 he had become its sole owner. Curiously, at this time the Warre family were the principal owners of Dow’s Port and had no remaining holding in the company that bore their name and which their ancestors had established. In 1912, Dow’s senior partner, George A. Warre, decided to return to England and invited AJ to manage the Douro vineyards of Dow, its lodges and wine stocks in Gaia. George Warre was a visionary who had acquired and developed three vineyards in prime locations in the Douro: Quinta do Zimbro, 1887 (Tua); Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira, 1890 (Douro Superior) and Quinta do Bomfim, 1896 (Pinhão). His initials, ‘GAW’ are prominently carved in stone over the main entrance to the Quinta do Bomfim lodge.

The arrangement between Andrew James Symington and George Warre sealed in 1912 involved a share swap whereby AJ took a stake in Dow’s and George Warre once again took shares in Warre & Co. The successful partnership between the Symingtons as port producers in the Douro and Gaia and the Warres looking after the sales in London lasted for half a century until 1961 when the Symingtons became the sole owners of both Dow’s and Warre’s.

‘The period following the First World War (1914-1918) was one of great prosperity in the port trade and AJ’s three sons, Maurice (born 1895) and the twins, John and Ronald (1900) joined their father in the running of the family business.’

(Left) Ron, Andrew James, Eileen and Maurice Symington, Quinta do Bomfim, 1924.

(Right) Three generations of Symingtons at Bomfim in 1934; from left to right, Ann, Maurice, Robert, AJ and Michael.

The period immediately following the First World War (19141918) was one of great prosperity in the port trade and AJ’s three sons, Maurice (born 1895) and the twins, John and Ronald (1900) joined their father in the running of the family business, including the management of the Douro vineyards – from tending the vines to winemaking. The visitor books at Bomfim record their regular visits and long stays and bring to life the work they undertook over several decades as they paved the way for future generations. Some of the vines planted by them during the 1920s and 1930s survive to this day. It was during this time that the family began to cement long-lasting business relations and, in many cases, close friendships with many of the farmers that supplied them with grapes. Many of these bonds nurtured over decades remain strong today.

Challenging times

Following the stock market crash of 1929, the world economy suffered a serious slump and recovery would prove very slow. No sooner had matters begun to gradually improve when the Second World War erupted, marking the beginning of one of the most difficult periods in the centuries-old history of port. At that time, the British Isles were by far the most important market for the wines and with the outbreak of war sales all but evaporated.

AJS died in 1939, shortly after the outbreak of war and the running of the company was left entirely to his three sons, all of whom were too old for conscription in the armed forces. However, John did enlist as a volunteer, joining the Royal Air Force in which he served as an intelligence officer until the conflict’s end. Maurice had served in the British Army in the First World War, becoming a liaison officer with the Portuguese Expeditionary Force when Portugal entered the war. His oldest son, Michael, was just old enough to join the British Army in the closing stages of the Second World War.

The war had a devastating impact on the port trade and many of the long-established port families either closed or sold their companies. The Symingtons were among just a handful that persevered and survived, although only just. The effects of the war persisted long after its conclusion as much of the fabric of

(Below) AJ sits in his Daimler ready to depart Quinta do Bomfim, circa 1912.

(Bottom) Michael Symington in the tasting room, shortly after joining the company in 1947.

the European economy was in tatters. Food rationing in Great Britain had to be maintained and was only phased out completely in 1954, nine years after the war ended. In that year, the family had to take the painful decision of selling two of their treasured Douro vineyards, Quinta do Zimbro and Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira, just to keep their head above water (Senhora da Ribeira would be re-acquired in 1998).

It was against this inauspicious backdrop that Michael, the first of the third generation, joined the company in 1947, closely followed by his cousin Ian (John’s eldest son) in 1949 and by their cousin, James (Ronald’s son) in 1960. James had been offered a place at St. Edmund Hall, Oxford University in 1952, but due to the post-war financial constraints, the family could not afford to finance his studies. Instead, he served as an officer in the King’s African Rifles in Kenya before joining the family company.

‘In 1954, the family had to take the painful decision of selling two of their treasured Douro vineyards, Quinta do Zimbro and Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira, just to keep their head above water.’

Quinta do Bomfim, New Year’s Day (January 1, 1951). Left to right: Michael, Eileen, Maurice, Elizabeth, Henry Stilwell, Bina Stilwell and Robert ‘Bob’ Symington.

Port’s rebirth

The family’s faith in port and their commitment to the Douro throughout these lean times would be rewarded when Europe began to enter a period of renewed prosperity from the early 1960s. The declaration of the outstanding 1963 Vintage, a 20th century classic, was transformational and heralded a period of sustained growth and success for the family firm. Optimism returned to the Douro and to meet the increase in demand for their wines, the family modernised the winery at Quinta do Bomfim in 1964, replacing the old treading tanks with modern vinification vats. 1964 was also the year that Peter (Ian’s younger brother) joined the company. He would become an accomplished taster and blender (he became known by his peers as ‘the nose’) and one of the trade’s most respected winemakers.

The third generation was instrumental in turning around not just the prospects of their own family company but also in contributing – with their peers in other companies – to the revival of the port trade as a whole and in helping to lay the foundations for growth in markets around the world from the mid-1960s onwards. Their spirit of sacrifice, indefatigable travel to develop new markets and indeed recover traditional ones, and their undiminished belief in the quality of their wines propelled the business forward and prepared the way for the better times that lay ahead.

‘The third generation was instrumental in turning around not just the prospects of their own family company but also in contributing –with their peers in other companies – to the revival of the port trade as a whole.’

(Left) Michael, Ian, James and Peter, outside the Bomfim winery, late 1960s.

(Right) Waiting for the train to go by, Quinta do Bomfim, 1957. Elizabeth Symington (left, standing) watches over William, Dominic, Fionna (their cousin) and Paul.

Just as building strong personal connections with farmers had proven its worth in the past, so the family understood the importance of patiently building confidence and trust with the agents and distributors they gradually appointed throughout Europe. Market diversification was important too, perhaps motivated by the potential pitfalls that an excessive dependence on one market had exposed. It was in this spirit that Michael, Ian and James travelled widely to France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Denmark, Italy, Germany and Switzerland as well as the UK and Ireland, fostering close personal as well as business relations with agents and distribution companies, some of which still represent the family’s wines in those markets to this day. Many enduring friendships resulted from this period of rediscovered hope and confidence.

As if to culminate this period of newfound hope and energy, in 1970 the family acquired one of the most respected companies in the port trade: W & J Graham & Co, highly regarded for producing outstanding Vintage Ports. The acquisition was steered by Michael, Ian and James, grandsons of AJS who had first come to Portugal precisely to begin his working life in Graham’s. The family’s permanence in their adopted country thus came full circle and both consolidated their business and their standing as a farsighted wine producing family with a long-term mindset.

The family couldn’t have hoped for a better start in their stewardship of Graham’s, having acquired the house in time to oversee that year’s harvest, which would produce the outstanding 1970 Vintage Port, of which the Graham is widely considered to be one of the finest wines. It is still showing magnificently more than five decades later.

The 4th generation, further expansion and diversification

Paul, Michael’s oldest son, joined the company in 1979, and together with cousins Johnny (Ian’s son who joined in 1985), Rupert (James’s son, joining in 1992), Charles (Peter’s son, joining 1995) as well as his younger brother Dominic (joined 1990), he was part of a close-knit 4th generation team who were to oversee a period of remarkable expansion, consolidation and diversification. They’re the first to recognise that they were very fortunate to have worked alongside their fathers and uncles for a not insignificant number of years, which no doubt facilitated a smooth and successful handover. They often remind others, not least their successors, that they owe much to the pragmatism and perseverance of their forebears, who did so much to reinforce the strong foundations of the family business.

Following the economic slump which affected much of the Western world during most of the 1970s (provoked by the 1973 and 1979 oil crises), the 1980s heralded a period of strong economic growth which saw renewed demand for many products including wine. Portugal made great strides upon its accession to the EU in 1986 and sales of port witnessed remarkably strong growth during the 1980s and 1990s. The decade between 1981 and 1990 saw total port shipments (all markets) grow by 29%, peaking in 1988 at just over 151,000 pipes, or 9.2 million cases (9L) – up until then the year with the highest ever exports of the wine since records began in 1678.

(Above left) Ron Symington assesses the must, 1969 vintage, Quinta do Bomfim.

(Right) 3rd and 4th generation Symingtons at the office in Gaia, 1992. From left to right: Rupert, Peter, Dom, James, Amyas, Johnny and Paul.

‘This very auspicious period allowed the company to make ambitious investments, particularly in the acquisition of new vineyards in the Douro, principal among which was the legendary Quinta do Vesúvio.’

This very auspicious period allowed the company to make ambitious investments, particularly in the acquisition of new vineyards in the Douro (principal among which the legendary Quinta do Vesúvio), but also in the construction of a new, dedicated bottling plant (Quinta do Marco, 1986) and new wineries – or the upgrading of existing ones.

The commercial side also witnessed great strides. New markets were developed in the Americas and Asia, as well as in Europe, with emphasis placed on the potential of the US, prompting the family to establish ‘Premium Port Wines Inc.’, that would eventually become its fully-fledged importer/distributor, based in San Francisco. The family’s distribution company in the strategic UK market, J.E. Fells, was reinforced with the acquisition of much improved premises in 1996 and the expansion of its team (the family had first acquired Fells in 1977). Fells are now one of the leading importers and distributors of fine wines in the UK, representing some of the world’s finest family-owned wineries (see article on pages 54-65). Understanding the importance of effective distribution, in 2009 the family also established

(Left) Dom, Rupert, Charles, Paul, Johnny and Peter at Quinta do Bomfim, 2004.

(Opposite page, left) Bruno Prats and Rupert, Graham’s Lodge, autumn 2021.

(Opposite page, right) Paul, Johnny (front), Dom, Rupert, Charles at Quinta dos Malvedos, 2010.

a distribution company in Portugal, the home country having become an increasingly important market for its wines.

Another significant advance was the strengthening of the company’s own commercial set up, with some initial emphasis given to developing the marketing side in order to help strengthen the brands and provide them with the support needed to grow and succeed. During this period, which covered the 1980s and 1990s, sales were still almost entirely handled by the family members themselves, but as the company expanded and the brands became stronger it became evident that they needed to develop a larger sales team to effectively sustain the presence in existing markets as well as the growth in new ones. Accordingly, from the early 2000s, the family set about building a highly professional cadre of salesmen and women – and how they have proven their worth!

Besides these developments, this was also a time for diversification and partnerships. In 1989, the family were invited by the Blandy family of Madeira to take a stake

in the Madeira Wine Company, which owned brands as diverse as Blandy, Cossart Gordon, Leacock and Miles. This eventually became a controlling interest, and the family were instrumental in reviving the fortunes of Madeira, both from a winemaking point of view and from the commercial perspective, improving worldwide marketing and distribution in existing markets and opening up new ones (see article on pages 42-53).

Ten years later, in 1999, the family formed a partnership with the Prats family of Bordeaux (who had until then owned and run Château Cos d’Estournel in the Médoc) to make fine red wine in the Douro. With their invaluable expertise, the Prats helped the family raise the profile of the Douro as a fledgeling region for high quality wine production alongside port. Simultaneously, the family also launched their Altano Douro DOC brand, which in parallel to the highly successful Chryseia red, made by Prats & Symington, marked the family’s entry into Douro wine production (see 1882, Volume 2, pages 24-31: ’20 Years of Douro DOC at Symington’).

(Above) Cockburn’s Lodge in Vila Nova de Gaia.

(Right) The Graham’s 1890 Lodge, museum area.

The 5th generation, new wine regions and wine tourism

Although the first years of the new millennium saw an inevitable focus on the recently launched Douro wines, in 2006 the family took an important strategic decision aimed at strengthening their position as a major player in port – the acquisition of Cockburn’s vineyards, lodges and wine stocks from one of the giants of the drinks industry: Beam Global. The deal also involved the agreement to exclusively supply Beam with all the port required for the Cockburn brand, whose ownership they retained. This was a very considerable investment but made good sense as Cockburn was a very good fit, being market leader in Symington’s most important market – the UK. The decision would be doubly vindicated when Beam sold the Cockburn brand to the family in 2010, a move which further cemented their standing as the category specialist.

(Top) The family at Quinta do Bomfim, spring 2023.

(Above) Quinta da Fonte Souto, Alentejo, the family’s first vineyard outside the Douro.

Walter Maynard (Shipped Por t in 1652)

Henry Whittingham

SYMINGTON

Family Tree

Robert Brown Symington 1767–1844

Margaret Macalaster John Atkinson 1758–1844

Andrew James Symington 1825–1898

Mary Edmondston 1832–1898

Andrew James Symington 1863–1939

Maurice Macalaster Symington 1895–1974

Michael Douglas Symington 1925–2013

Paul Symington 1953

Robert Symington 1983

Charlotte Symington 1985 Harry Symington 1989

Dominic Symington 1956

Anthony Symington 1988

Leonor da Silva Moura

Dorothea Maynard de Silva

Johan Moring Dorothea Ignacia Whittingham

Cristiano Kopke 1693–1759

Ignacio Antonio Henckell 1712–1802

João van Zeller 1741

Francisco José van Zeller 1774-1852

Ellen Latimer

John Whiteley Atkinson 1830–1899

Inágcio José Sampaio de Pina e Barros e Sousa Leitão de Carvalhosa

Dorothea Moring Whittingham 1708–1759

Ana Dorothea Kopke 1733–1757

Ana Francisca Henckell 1754–1791

Ana Dorothea van Zeller 1786-1854

Carlota van Zeller 1817–1894

Maria José de Sousa e Barros Leitão de Carvalhosa 1838–1907

Beatriz Atkinson 1870–1916

John Douglas Symington 1900–1973

Ronald Atkinson Symington 1900–1983

Ian Douglas Symington 1929–2019

John Symington 1960

Amyas Douglas Symington 1931–2012

Peter Ronald Symington 1944

James Ronald Symington 1934–2020

Charles Symington 1969

(niece)

Vicky Symington 1992

Teresa Symington 1994

Clare Symington 1962

Rupert Symington 1964

Hugh Symington 1994

Importantly, the acquisition of Cockburn’s extensive vineyard holding would also have a significant impact on the family’s Douro wines. Cockburn’s had pioneered the development of the Vilariça Valley, an area of the Douro Superior with favourable characteristics to produce wines. These vineyards, of which the most important is Quinta do Ataíde, were therefore earmarked by the family for their expanding (non-fortified) Douro wine production.

2017 was a landmark year for the family on three fronts: it marked the entry of the first 5th generation member, Rob (Paul’s oldest son); the first vineyard acquisition outside the family’s traditional Douro heartland – Quinta da Fonte Souto, Portalegre, Alentejo – and the opening of the family’s third visitor centre, namely the Cockburn’s Lodge. The latter culminated an ambitious period in the development of wine experiences, which began with the inauguration of the Graham’s 1890 Lodge in 2013 (and concurrently the opening of the on-site Vinum restaurant) followed in 2015 by the debut of the family’s first Douro wine experience at the Quinta do Bomfim Visitor Centre.

The 5th generation is now well represented with Charlotte, Vicky, Harry, Anthony, Hugh and Teresa having also joined the family company (or the family distribution companies in the UK and USA). They have brought a fresh impetus to address contemporary challenges and to reinforce the family’s deep commitment to the regions in which they live and work. They took a central role in driving the formulation and implementation of the company’s ambitious sustainability strategy – ‘Mission 2025’, which has produced tangible results, with Symington Family Estates having become (2019) the first wine producer in Portugal to achieve B Corporation certification, joining a global movement of companies that use business as a force for good.

There are today nine Symingtons working together in the company which represents a family commitment that has few parallels in any wine region anywhere in the world. Charles Symington is responsible for all the family’s vineyards and winemaking, while other family members work in almost every other part of the business. While many producers

The Bomfim 1896 restaurant.

(Above) Paul receives the CMG (The Most Distinguished Order of St. Michael and St. George) from His Majesty King Charles III at Windsor Castle, February 14, 2023.

(Left) Johnny receives the MBE from HRH Prince Charles at Buckingham Palace in 2015.

Symington Family: Honours and awards bestowed on members of the family

Maurice Symington

Military Cross of the Order of Aviz by the Portuguese Republic for his services fighting with the Portuguese troops in France in 1917 and 1918 in WWI

‘Mentioned in Dispatches’ for ‘Gallant and Distinguished Service in the Field’ in WWI by the British Government (this award was signed by Winston Churchill – Minister Of War)

Portuguese Order of Merit for services to Port and the Douro wine region.

Over the years, several members from various generations of the family have been honoured by both the Portuguese and British governments for services to both countries. These awards and decorations, spanning a century, are a testament to the extraordinary commitment to their region and to their adopted country and to promoting strong ties with their country of origin.

Michael Symington

CBE (The Most Excellent Order of The British EmpireCommander) by the UK Government for services to AngloPortuguese relations.

Johnny Symington

MBE (The Most Excellent Order of The British EmpireMember) for services to Anglo-Portuguese relations.

Paul Symington

Portuguese Order of Merit (Grand Officer) by the President of Portugal

CMG (The Most Distinguished Order of Saint Michael and Saint George - Companion) for services to AngloPortuguese relations.

promote their family ownership, few if any can demonstrate this level of family involvement. Symington is truly a family wine producer.

Wine tourism and experiences have gradually become a strategic growth area of the family company and is now one of the three principal pillars of the business alongside premium port and DOC wine. Besides the visitor centres, new restaurants were inaugurated at Quinta do Bomfim, the ‘Casa dos Ecos’ pop-up restaurant in 2020 and the ‘Bomfim 1896 with Pedro Lemos’ in 2022 (both in partnership with Michelin-starred Chef, Pedro Lemos). A new visitor centre was launched in 2021 at the Alentejo property, Quinta da Fonte Souto and some exciting new projects will come on stream in the next few years.

In 2022, the family branched out further in their wine portfolio, investing in sparkling wine with the acquisition of a 50% stake in Vértice (Caves Transmontanas), widely recognised as one of Portugal’s finest sparkling wines. Just a year later, the family confirmed its interest in developing a presence in sparkling wine production by the joint acquisition

– with the historic Berry Bros. & Rudd – of Hambledon Vineyard in England, marking their first wine production venture outside Portugal.

Also in 2022, the family added another wine region to their portfolio, this time a vineyard located in Portugal’s most northerly point – the Monção-Melgaço subregion of the Vinho Verde appellation. The Casa de Rodas estate, which includes a beautiful 16th century manor, has 27.5 hectares planted to Alvarinho. Simultaneously, the family announced a partnership with Anselmo Mendes, one of Portugal’s most accomplished winemakers, a champion of the Alvarinho grape and one of the subregion’s best-known ambassadors. He became the property’s viticultural consultant and winemaker.

From 1882 to the present, it has been a long, fascinating and eventful journey with setbacks and successes taking turns to test the family’s resilience, resourcefulness, judgement and commitment. Ultimately, they can take pride in all they have achieved – Andrew James Symington perhaps could never have imagined just how far his legacy would reach and endure.

REFLECTIONS ON THE PAST, SHAPING THE FUTURE

Johnny Symington reflects on his 40 years in the wine trade and looks to the future.

Vicky and Johnny, Quinta do Bomfim, Summer 2021.

It is interesting to reflect on the past and to understand the journey we have been on, the changes that have happened, the ways we have adapted, how we have dealt with the challenges, and to see how we have evolved our strategy to new realities. It is however the future that requires our focus and is exciting to consider.

Having previously worked in a large company in the high-tech medical sector, it was a significant and very pleasing change to return to Portugal and join our family business and to dedicate my career to the family and the wine industry.

It was 40 years ago that I embarked on this dynamic journey initially with my father, uncles and cousins and more recently with the 5th Generation – my daughter, son, nephews and nieces. A journey that would test my abilities to adapt, innovate and persevere in the face of constant change.

Since I joined our family business, the transformation and development of the market, the changes in the working environment, and the ways of communicating and relating to the consumer have all been remarkable. As I reflect on this transformative journey of the last four decades, it is evident that it has been a period that has reshaped our world in ways we could never have imagined.

‘Since I joined our family business, the transformation and development of the market, the changes in the working environment, and the ways of communicating and relating to the consumer have all been remarkable.’

Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais.

(Right) The family in the Warre’s Lodge, Gaia, April 2019.

It is inconceivable to imagine that when I started at Symington Family Estates, we did not have a fax machine, laptops, emails, internet or mobile phones. It was technologically a totally different era. The structure of our business was very different. The majority of our shipments were bulk Port, our brands, although well recognized, represented only a small percentage of our sales. We were neither the largest nor the most premium in the sector. What we did have and that has never changed was the ambition to develop, the ability to embrace change, the desire to adapt to new realities, and a determination to see the challenges as opportunities for growth and transformation.

The past 40 years have been a time of incredible progress, innovation and growth, driving change for the better. From the low-tech workplace of the early 1980’s, we are now

connected in ways that previously were unimaginable and it has transformed how we live, work and interact with one another. Environmental awareness and sustainable practices have taken centre stage given the urgent need to protect our planet and communities.

Our strategic goals have always been our compass as we bought quintas, invested in vineyards, built several wineries, converted our bulk to bottle shipments, embraced new technologies, built bottling halls, invested in brands and premiumized our brands, and more recently expanded our business with table wine, wine tourism, and new wine regions. It is fair to say the business has gone through several total transformations over the last few decades and has enabled us to become more relevant and successful in a rapidly changing and increasingly more competitive market.

Each challenge and shift in technology, market development, expansion in our business activities, required foresight, strategic planning, a willingness to take calculated risks, and we have taken informed decisions to position the business for long-term success. It was in this way that we have built strong brands, delivered exceptional value for consumers and cultivated a culture of innovation and adaptability. But none of this journey would have been possible without the exceptional dedication of the different teams in all areas of the company. We can all, as valued members of Symington Family Estates, be proud of the development and relentless pursuit of excellence that has allowed us not only to survive but thrive in this ever transigent world. Our story is a testimony to the power of resilience, flexibility and strategic vision of our family. Investing in the best in both people and assets, this has been our mantra.

It is equally satisfying to see how we have evolved from a traditional business to one that embraces modern business practices. It has of course been more difficult to maintain the small family business culture as we have grown significantly in size and number of people. It is however possible; we just need to work harder at maintaining the family business culture that is so valuable in today’s economy. As I look back, over these last decades, we realize how much there is to celebrate with the progress that has been made and challenges we have overcome. We have done this with ingenuity in a discreet but confident way.

(Above) Rupert, Johnny, Dom and Charles, Quinta da Fonte Souto, May 2019.

(Below) Treading in one of the lagares at Quinta do Vesúvio, September 2023.

(Above) Pedro Leite lends Johnny some hair, Commercial Dept. Christmas dinner, British Factory House.

(Below) Commercial Dept. Christmas dinner: Jackie Dias flanked by Dominic and Johnny Symington.

Commercial Department Christmas dinner at the British Factory House in Porto.

All jobs have their good and less good aspects but it’s now that I reflect on the good, and it’s been very good thanks to the people. What has impressed me most over the years are the people who make things happen. Despite the changing times, their motivation, adaptability and commitment have shaped our business for the better. It’s been impressive to see the levels of hard work and perseverance that so many individuals have given to drive progress and as a consequence has brought about constructive change and success. But above all, the deepest and lasting memory will be the human element, which has been a constant force for good with the ability to empathize and be kind, lend a helping hand and to stand in solidarity with those in need, as so many of our team and company have done over the years. This all contributes to our lives being filled with meaning and purpose.

As I reflect on my career and the journey through the years what has stood out beyond everything else is the profound impact that the people I have worked with have had on my work and on my life. The friendships I have forged and the relationships I have nurtured have enriched my career more than the work. In the many memories that have been created, it is the people, their support, their shared moments of triumph and successes, their difficulties and sense of humour that all stand out as the most enduring and special memories. It is often the relationships we cultivate with colleagues and teammates that leave an indelible mark in our hearts. The camaraderie that prevails in the midst of shared goals, collaborative efforts and collective achievements create a bond and friendship that outlives all other memories of the workplace. It is the shared experiences, mutual respect and genuine care for one another that we find inspiration and the motivation to persevere through the challenges that life presents.

As we consider the future, it is the collective spirit that will ensure that we take advantage of the opportunities and possibilities that lie ahead, and I am very optimistic about our future.

The optimism I have is rooted in the solid foundation we have meticulously built over the years. My optimism is a testament to the dedication and commitment of each and every member of our team over many decades. A team made up of professionals who possess and pass on not only the skills and expertise but also unwavering determination and passion to steer us towards success.

My optimism is bolstered by the strength of our brands. We have invested heavily not only financially but also our time and energy in nurturing our brands, and the Symington values, making them beacons of quality and reliability in the eyes of the consumer. Our brands are symbols of trust, embodying our values and principles in every product, every experience and in the service we deliver. We will thrive in a world where premium brands and experiences are not just valued but cherished.

We have invested strategically in projects that align with our vision for the future, a future where innovation and sustainability will continue to be a focus. These projects are long term investments. They are aimed at a market where premium brands and experiences are not just desired but demanded. Most importantly we are prepared for the inevitable

‘We have invested strategically in projects that align with our vision for the future, a future where innovation and sustainability will continue to be a focus. These longterm investments are aimed at a market where premium brands and experiences are not just desired but demanded.’

Casa de Rodas, in the prime Monção-Melgaço subregion of the Vinho Verde appellation.

(Left) On the ‘Presidential Train’ presenting the 2016 Vintage Port to the trade and press.

(Below) The last of the ‘old guard’ 4th generation members: Rupert, Charles and Johnny at Malvedos, Spring 2024.

changes that continue to shape our future and that will inspire our growth and development. We are prepared to adapt and evolve in an ever-changing landscape. Prepared to seize every opportunity that comes our way. We have laid the grounds and foundation for even more success

My optimism is also rooted in reality. Because it is a reflection of the hard work, dedication and foresight that have brought us to this moment. I am not saying everything is going to be easy. If it’s really worth doing, it’s not going to be easy. Success is not automatic. It doesn’t just happen. It’s not gifted to us on a silver platter. It demands relentless effort, strategic thinking and unwavering perseverance. To thrive in today’s fiercely competitive landscape we must embrace a mindset of continuous improvement as has been the case hitherto. We must be more competitive not only in terms of what we offer but also in how we operate. We need to increase our pace staying ahead of the curve and adapting to the flux in market dynamics. Our commercial goals demand nothing less than our absolute commitment. We must focus on increasing margins, optimizing efficiency and delivering exceptional value to our customers.

We have had the foresight to invest in the future, to sew seeds of innovation and growth that will sustain us in the long term. By embracing the changes, whatever they are, with vigour, together we can overcome any obstacle, achieve our commercial goals and continue to build a future of enduring success. This journey of progress is ongoing, and the successes of the past serve as a foundation upon which we can continue to strive for a better world for all, be it in the workplace or in our personal lives. We can’t escape a world marked by constant change and innovation. We can embrace it and recognize the positive transformation, and the interesting opportunities it creates.

I have enormous confidence in our future management. Their experience and capabilities are second to none and our new Governance model will be even more effective in the years to come. It is our values that have provided a foundation on which we have built a sustainable business. These values include honesty, respect, integrity, empathy and they provide a foundation for the relationships we have built with all stakeholders. Relationships are based on trust and mutual understanding, and it is as a consequence of this that things happen, and progress is made.

Lunch at the Factory House with the commercial dept. team, December 2024.

‘I am certain that our long-standing legacy and reputation for quality and reliability will continue, and we will maintain our ability to adapt to a world that may well change as much in the next 40 years as it has in the last 40.’

Looking to the future, it will of course be a future with challenges and opportunities, in this respect no different to the past four decades. I am certainly filled with confidence for the future of our business. It gives me great pleasure to share with you these main reasons why I believe our company is poised for further success and growth in the coming years. Firstly, our recent strategic investments have laid a solid foundation for our business to thrive. As we carefully evaluate market trends, customer needs and technologies (such as Artificial Intelligence as well as others), we can continue to make strategic decisions to ensure progress and development. We have made investments and carried out research and development to enhance our operational efficiency and ensure we remain the leader in our industry. Our unwavering commitment to implementing a sound and innovative strategy has set us apart from our competitors. Our strategic vision is clear, our goals, ambitions and our plans are well thought out. We are constantly adapting to the changing business environment and embracing new opportunities as they arise.

It also gives me great confidence to see the wealth of knowledge and experience built up in the business by so many people who have dedicated their careers for the future of the business. Equally it is exciting to see the injection of new young talents from those who have joined us more recently and brought exciting new ways of improving our future. The combined dedication, drive and innovative thinking, as well as the passion, will continue to be the driving force behind our future success. With such a dynamic management team, I have no doubt that the business will continue to prosper and reach new heights. We are well positioned for development and growth in the coming years

I am certain that our long-standing legacy and reputation for quality and reliability will continue, and we will maintain our ability to adapt to a world that may well change as much in the next 40 years as it has in the last 40. With the development of

Artificial Intelligence, fast evolving technology, changes in consumer expectations and habits, climate change and a very different working environment to what we know today, we will continue to embrace these exciting opportunities and life changing challenges and we will remain the specialist, the best in our sector, world class, but never complacent, always pushing the boundaries and at the same time valuing tradition and stability.

Returning to when I joined our business, it was a new and different environment for me, and I quickly realised the value of tradition and stability. The company’s commitment to craftsmanship of its wines, attention to detail and a focus on customer relationships were all qualities that defined our past and will continue to define our future success

I have learned that innovation and change come from honouring and building upon the foundations laid by those who came before us. The future is about embracing the company’s values, culture and history, integrating them into effective decision making and clear leadership. In this way, it helps one embrace change, being open to new experiences and recognizing the value of diversity of thought and perspective. True innovation lies in the ability to adapt, evolve and blend the best of both worlds. Together we will create a future that honours the past while being brave enough to redefine what and how we do things, in order that an ambitious company like ours continues to have a long-term vision, with people and community at its centre.

(Right) Cover story of the Expresso Newspaper weekend colour supplement, October 2002.

OUR ISLAND SOJOURN

António Filipe looks back at our two-decade involvement with the wines of Madeira, 1989-2010.

António Marquez Filipe September, 2024

Francisco Albuquerque

Head winemaker

Madeira Wine Company Summer, 2024

The year was 1989 and I well remember the day that James Symington asked me to prepare a report on the Madeira wine business of which the family had just become the majority shareholder in a convergence of interests with the Blandy family, and in a process organised by the Banco Português de Investimentos (BPI), itself already a shareholder. This prompted my first visit to Madeira. Following the conclusion of the report and the presentation of its findings and recommendations, I was invited to oversee the management of the company, an experience that was professionally very rewarding and for which I am immensely grateful to the Symington family.

I lost count of the many visits I made to the island, but I recollect that I must have travelled there at least 150 times between 1990 and 2006. However, that doesn’t mean that I know the island well at all. I made two fleeting tours of the island in a hire car but I only scratched the surface, an obvious failing that I still hope to put right.

I did, however, become closely acquainted with the Madeira Wine Company – a very gratifying experience. There were many difficult moments that we had to face, particularly during the early 1990s, but there were also moments of surmounting hurdles, of victories and celebrations, all of which very positively marked the years of work devoted to this project.

The favourable outcome of the whole process is first and foremost attributable to the contribution of the people involved – the Blandy family, particularly Richard and Michael Blandy, the various managers of their enterprises, the many colleagues who held senior management positions and – in particular – the company employees who were always very welcoming to the Symington team, supporting it in the difficult decisions which had to be taken.

Contrary to what might be expected from an insular business, in the hands of the same family for almost 180 years, our entry to the company was not met with distrust or suspicion. We were made to feel welcome right from the outset.

At the time, the company’s financial situation was not at all favourable and it became necessary to implement a bold cost cutting plan and the adjustment of wine stocking levels. The company employees, realizing that this was an absolutely essential effort to safeguard the company’s viability and their jobs, committed with great determination to meeting the objectives set out. On one occasion, we gathered all the company managers to fully brief them on the situation and to enlist their support and engagement in the measures which had to be taken and which included some layoffs. One of them, speaking on behalf of all said,

(Top) James Symington and Richard Blandy toasting their partnership in January 1989.

(Above) The Old Blandy Wine Lodge in the centre of Funchal, Madeira’s capital.

‘do what must be done and we will do our part.’ The results did not take long to materialise and I clearly remember the day, about two years later, that the then financial director, António Barreto, rang me to inform that we had managed to totally eradicate our indebtedness to the banks – one of the recovery plan’s central objectives.

These were very intense, challenging years but at the same time very interesting in that we touched all areas of the business. We appointed new distributors for the company’s wines, namely the Symington-owned distribution companies in the USA, the UK and Portugal who became exclusive distributors in those markets for the Madeira Wine Company range of products. Additionally, brand management was made more professional with the realignment of the brands and products of the company, involving in-depth packaging redesign as well as ambitious product extensions and diversification, such as the creation of the colheita/harvest categories. At this time we also launched (1992) the islands first non-fortified (still) wine – Atlantis –which remains to this day a great success story.

(Above) The lush vineyard landscape of the volcanic island of Madeira.

(Below) Blandy’s Alvada, the first blended Madeira (made from more than one grape variety).

We revisited the sales strategy of the Vintage Madeiras, real treasures and testaments to the extraordinary quality and longevity of the island’s finest wines. Investments were made in the rehabilitation of the Blandy Wine Lodge in the centre of Funchal, respecting the building’s rich historical heritage. This is one of Madeira’s must see attractions and is visited each year by over 200,000 people.

Substantial investments were also made in refurbishing buildings, updating equipment, IT upgrades and in the modernisation of operational procedures in general. It is important to highlight the contributions made by António Serra Alegra and Jacques Faro da Silva – as general managers of the company – to the success of this modernisation. As well as being through and through professionals, I count them as friends with whom I share good memories, which speaks well of the moments of relaxation and good humour that we enjoyed, notwithstanding the differences that often surfaced in the sometimes combative regular meetings we had. These friendships linger to this day.

(Above) Madeira, along with port is one of the world’s longest-lived wines.

(Above right) Prized Canteiro wines, naturally heated in the lofts of the wine lodges.

(Facing page) Old photos from the Madeira Wine archives, above, the Leacock Madeira lodge and, below, a wine press and treading tank (lagar).

I used to really enjoy our meetings, knowing how they could have a direct, positive impact on the company, the employees and the social environment even though, at times, it was very frustrating to have to wait for what seemed like a long time for things to visibly change. In each trip, I particularly enjoyed visiting all sections of the company and very rare were the occasions when I was unable to do these rounds either before or after a board meeting. Being able to interact with the majority of staff members, hearing them recount their successes and frustrations, sharing stories about our families, and generally answering questions about the company or the industry are some of the fondest memories I preserve. I especially remember the great affection and support that I received over several years when my wife was grappling with a very serious health condition. This made me even more determined in giving my best for the company and its employees.

In a very small community it wasn’t always easy to deal with the local and regional authorities. The permanent confrontation between the Presidency of the Regional Government and the Blandy family – our partners – was often a source of conversation and concern for us as the ‘continental’ (mainland Portugal) stakeholder. We quickly learned from our Blandy partners to take these rows with a pinch of salt as often they were no more than politicial posturing which served a regional public agenda rather than an attempt to undermine the company. In fact, we always felt

the support and incentive of the regional authorities to develop the exports of wine from the island and to create value – a clear demonstration that the best interest of Madeira was always above any historical quarrel.

I also recall fun and lively episodes during interactions with our competitors. The meetings of the wine section of the Funchal Industrial and Commercial Association were always very animated, with all the participants passionately defending their business causes. Humour was constant and liberally employed in witty repartee and a highlight I recall was when two producers and long-standing rivals were engaged in a heated argument when one of them exclaimed, ‘do you know what your problem is, sir? Your problem is that you are locked in a private condo mentality!’ Following moments of incredulity, all those assembled burst into bouts of laughter which swiftly brought the meeting to a close without the affected party taking any particular offence.

Indelible too the memories of the vintages, focal points in the lives of all the wine producers. The feverish activity of people and vehicles in a constant hither and thither of movement between vineyards, wineries, vats, hoses and pumps, the unmistakeable aromas from fermentations of the native grape varieties, and – in the middle of it all – the unflappable demeanour of Francisco Albuquerque, winemaker responsible for some of the finest wines ever produced on the island; the booming, commanding voice of the fearsome António Serôdio, always focused on efficiency and delivering the best outcome – whilst at the same time capable of the broadest smile –, and the resounding laughter of winemaker João Pedro Ramalho which reached all corners of the winery! All of these sounds and sensations are deeply imprinted in my memory.

It was in the production area, and very specifically on the winemaking side that a profound and lasting revolution was made. Respecting the production methods and ancestral knowledge of Madeira winemaking, innovations in the processes and equipment,

(Top left) A vineyard planted with Verdelho, along the island’s cooler north coast.

(Above) Harvesting Sercial grapes from a north coast vineyard with the Atlantic Ocean as backdrop.

as well as an emphasis on the training and qualification of relevant staff, were set in motion and this enabled a very substantial qualitative leap forward in winemaking. This not only impacted very favourably on the image of the company but also on the Madeira Wine category as a whole. If I was asked to single out just one triumph in our successful passage through the Madeira Wine Company, this would undoubtedly be the calling card I would pick.

After nearly twenty years of a close and intensive involvment in the management of the Madeira Wine Company, we felt that the objectives originally set out had been largely met, and notwithstanding the work that still needed to be done, we felt it was time to hand the helm back to the Blandy family. We maintain a 10% shareholding in the company, which expresses our pride as a continuing stakeholder. With this move, we were able to refocus on our core business – port and Douro winemaking and to prepare the company for the many challenges that lie ahead.

We continue to maintain frequent contacts between our companies, between staff members as well as between shareholders – a positive, solid and lasting testament of what we built together. Besides the business partnership, we forged genuine and rewarding friendships. This is how, in my opinion, business partnerships should be.

Many stories remain to be told, but a lack of space and the fact that some stories are simply unrepeatable (some of the dinners at the Jaquet restaurant... or how a piano ended up in the Madeira Wine Company). But who knows, perhaps at some time in the future, in some other place.

Chris Blandy (CEO) and Francisco Albuquerque (winemaker) toast another successful Madeira harvest.

(Above) Francisco, ‘Chico’ Albuquerque, Blandy’s award-winning winemaker draws a sample from a cask.

(Facing page) Freshly picked Sercial grapes await collection from a north coast vineyard.

Francisco Albuquerque, MWC winemaker, remembers how the Symington family’s twodecade involvement significantly helped to turn around the fortunes of Madeira Wine

The entry of the Symington family into Madeira Wine was decisive in leveraging and stabilising the industry across its many aspects ranging from viticulture, research and development as well as marketing and sales.

I joined the Madeira Wine Company in 1990 as a trainee following an invitation by the general director at the time, António Serra Alegra, which was preceded by an interview with António Serôdio who oversaw Symington winemaking under Peter Symington.

In the second week of September 1990, I travelled to the Douro where I joined the vintage team at Quinta do Bomfim, absorbing all the learnings I could from António Serôdio whom I followed like a shadow in order to learn all the processes inherent to effective winemaking.

1990 was one of the largest vintages on record in the Douro. On some days we received over 400 tons, working arduously round the clock in almost military drill trying to manage the desperation of the farmers as they waited their turn in endless queues for hours on end to deliver their grapes.

On returning to the island during the first week of October, having completed the Douro harvest ‘boot camp’, the vintage on Madeira was nearing its conclusion and only Sercial grapes

remained to be picked. These are planted at 900 metres altitude in the Jardim da Serra district and are always the last to be picked.

Thus, the first wine I made in the company was the 1990 Sercial in a vintage headed by João Pedro Ramalho from the Symington winemaking team.

For me everything was a novelty, all the more so because my experience until then was limited to the classical winemaking technique of the lagares (treading in open tanks) and continuous presses.

When the Symington family led their first vintage in Madeira in 1989, they introduced new practices which revolutionised winemaking on the island. Great emphasis was placed on grape quality and grape ripeness. Our policy was changed to only purchase fruit in good condition, and we introduced some of the most important principles of modern winemaking: temperature control of the fermenting musts and complete destemming with pre-fermentation maceration.

In less than a decade, all the wines began to register much lower levels of volatile acidity so that the quality of the young wines was incomparably superior as well as revealing great ageing potential.

In 1991 there was an abundant crop of the Tinta Negra Mole variety, and as means of using these grapes, surplus to requirement, we decided to produce the island’s first dry wine –a rosé which was christened ‘Atlantis’. It was launched with great

success in 1992. 33 years later, we continue to produce Atlantis Rosé whilst having also extended the Atlantis range to include a white, a white reserve and a red wine. It is currently the most widely produced non-fortified regional wine.

Towards the end of the 1990s, we also launched a new premium Madeira wine category, termed ‘Colheitas’ with great success. Another first was the launch in 2000 of a Madeira blended from two of the classic varieties (Bual and Malmsey) with an eyecatching contemporary design called Alvada. Up until then, all Madeiras had been made as single varietal wines.

We also pioneered in the early 2000s scientific research to better understand the extremely complex kinetics of the ageing of our wines, launching the scientific programme, IMPACT I, covering the unique technique of estufagem which has since made it possible to control the process, eliminating some of the unpleasant and undesirable compounds. We haven’t looked back since, and we are currently launching IMPACT 4.

The arrival of the Symington family in Madeira aroused the interest of national and foreign wine writers, journalists and Masters of Wine who all began to visit the island regularly. This really put Madeira wines back on the global map, generating renewed interest, the publication of features and articles, and the entry of Madeira wines in international competitions which garnered many accolades and prizes. The wines of Madeira are again perceived as premium wines, assuring the visibility and recognition that they deserve.

(Left) Traditional Madeira wicker vintage baskets filled with Verdelho grapes.

(Facing page) Chris Blandy, 7th generation Madeira wine producer.

The CEO of Blandy’s Madeira, Chris Blandy, gives his testimonial on the Symington family’s contribution to the rehabilitation of Madeira Wine

The relationship between my family and the Symington family has always been a strong one, based on the commonality of shared values and strong sense of professionalism. I have no doubt in my mind that it was as a result of the work done by those in the Symington company during their time as majority owners of the MWC the whole sector managed to break the mould of what was at the time, a slowly dying business. A highly professional approach with modern winemaking techniques and a global distribution network allowed the

team at the MWC to drive through the necessary change and helped set the foundations for the ongoing success that the company has been experiencing throughout all these years.

Having taken over in 2011 when my family bought back the majority shareholding, I had the advantage of having worked for the Symington’s from 2002-2004 and so was very close to the family and the executives, making the hand-over period as smooth as it could possibly be. We continue to this day to have a very strong relationship and we continue to work with 3 of the Symington distribution companies in our major markets: J E Fells in the UK, Premium Port Wines in the USA, and Portfolio Vinhos in mainland Portugal.

A LASTING DEDICATION TO FELLS

Steve Moody, recently retired Managing Director of J.E. Fells, shares his insights on his 30-year long career in the Symington Family’s UK wine distribution company, which he helped to successfully transform into one of the country’s most respected fine wine distributors.

Steve Moody Summer 2024

(Top) The current Kings Langley Fells offices, about 40km north-west of London, to where the company relocated in 2015 from Berkhamsted.

(Above) The old Fells offices in Acton, London.

When it comes to achieving the Managing Directorship of one of the UK’s leading distributors of premium wines and ports, it could be said by many – “How did he manage that”?!

Starting from the beginning, I come from a typical workingclass background, having been brought up and schooled in Bracknell, Berkshire, to the west of London. Bracknell was one of several ‘New Towns’ that were created to accommodate the overspill of people from London. Indeed, we relocated from Wimbledon to Bracknell when I was five years old, to what was an almost new council house that my dad secured with a new job. Family life was pretty unremarkable; there wasn’t much money, and I only remember a couple of holidays with the family. I was the eldest of four children and shared a bedroom with my two brothers until I left home. There was no car, no colour TV, etc, but we were as happy as you can be when you’re young and don’t really know any different. Both my parents worked: my father was direct and firm, a reflection of his background of being bought up in a Barnardo’s children’s home in Tunbridge Wells from where he went immediately into the Army, probably the only option in those days if you had little guidance and support (he never knew his parents).

My education was through the state system culminating in a number of years at Garth Hill in Bracknell, a modern

comprehensive school. I learned not to like sports that much but latterly found fun and pleasure in their Operatic Society. It was here that I met Christine Adam, who would later become my first wife in 1985. I left Garth with a few O-Levels and no particular clue as to what I might do for a career.

I did have an idea of becoming a chef, but my first job was as an NPD (new product development) assistant in a local familyowned dairy company. Amongst other things, they supplied both Marks & Spencer (M & S) and Waitrose with cream, which gave an opportunity for them to supply chilled dairy desserts. I got to enjoy going to Michael House in Baker Street to show concepts to M & S product selectors for listing consideration. This lasted for almost three years. I then joined the 3M company who were headquartered in Bracknell, and initially I worked in billing and coding doing no more than proof reading invoices for a year. I was promoted to be their youngest Section Leader in their Business Products Division, where I led a team of three. 3M was transformational for me, a very driven and focused business, where I was daily surrounded by very professional and highly motivated people. The company had a great energy and focus.

My first job in sales proper was with Croda Bowmans Chemicals, where I became their Southern Divisional Salesman,

Steve Moody with colleagues, Richard Brockett and Alastair Bennett at a tasting venue in Central London.

‘I joined Fells on August 3rd, 1992, and was dropped off at the Acton office by my long-standing friend Alan Campbell. I recall being shocked by the sheer small scale of the company, no HR and I was given a small office that had no natural daylight and a phone that didn’t have all its push buttons!’

selling food preservatives including lactic, malic and citric acids to food manufactures. I got the job by chance following successful interviewing at their smart head office in Holborn. Given that I had previously worked with their products at my first job, I was conversant with these and could confidently talk about them and their applications. I was gaining in confidence and becoming a better professional for it. There was, however, a flip side as I quickly learned that being a salesman is a lonely existence, where dealing with rejection soon must become an acquired skill! I stayed a couple of years and did well enough.

Driven by ambition, curiosity and the idea of greater success, I responded one day to a blind advert in the magazine, ‘The Grocer’, which simply read: ‘4 Super Salespeople required’ – it said nothing else. The first interview was with the agent in a hotel room – once through the door I spied bottles of Chivas Regal, Mumm Champagne and Sandeman Ports, Paul Masson carafes, Captain Morgan Rum, to name just a few. That was enough for me, I was smitten and wanted the job without hesitation before the first words were ever spoken! The role was for a regional salesman with Seagram in the Southeast selling their brands to retailers, cash & carries, breweries etc. They were looking for confident FMCG experienced salespeople. At the time I felt I wasn’t a natural fit, but I progressed through three interviews and in the end secured the job. A few years later I discovered that the chap interviewing me was an ex 3M’er (funny that…).

Seagram was an amazing experience for me, it was fast paced and driven, and you were taught to be organised, planned and you worked very hard. I quickly learned the harder you worked the more successful you could become. I was promoted on several occasions in my 10 years there, occupying a variety of senior management roles across most of their trading channels. Seagram attracted some of the very best people. Owned by the Bronfman Family, in its day it was quite a force. I found its MD at the time, Gordon Hessey, to be quite inspirational, and like 3M it was another American organisation with a strong ‘work hard, play hard’ culture. I learned much about myself and acquired greater confidence and skills whilst there. I left of my own accord during the late spring of 1992, towards the company’s demise and through a period of contraction that saw many people who I looked up to lose their jobs.

I had been married for almost seven years at this point and Chris, my wife, was heavily pregnant with our first son, Gregory. Looking for a job and having to deal with rejection was a positive experience as I reflect – I was brought back down to earth and started to wonder if I would ever work in the industry again. I redoubled my efforts and made not having a job a job in itself! By the end of the summer, I had job offers from Coca-Cola, Schweppes, Britvic and Fells…

(Facing page) Fells Kings Langley offices, where the company has been based since December 2015.

(Above) Janneau Armagnac, which Fells has successfully distributed for over three decades.

This was a tricky moment for me as Seagram was a commercial drinks business and my exposure to the wine trade was very limited. Fells was looking for a General Sales Manager who would report to their then MD, Victor Bowie. I could bring to Fells a structured sales experience and I did have plenty of people management experience as well. I hesitated hugely and it was Chris, my late wife, who helped me muster the courage to again jump in the deep end and take up the opportunity in a wine trade company that I knew little about. I joined Fells on August 3rd, 1992, and was dropped off at the Acton office by my long-standing friend Alan Campbell. I recall being shocked by the sheer small scale of the company, no HR and I was given a small office that had no natural daylight and a phone that didn’t have all its push buttons! One of my first knee jerk Seagram reactions was to sell a container of port to The Bestway Cash & Carry group, and needless to say, it took most of the following year to sell through their business!

My initial memories from that time are that I was uncomfortable: Fells was culturally so different to Seagram. Most of the sales team and directors were well-spoken, well-educated individuals, and it was quite unsettling for me – the boy from Bracknell –to be there standing in front of them! Everyone, though, was welcoming and friendly and very soon it became clear to me how I could deploy many of my learnings for the betterment of Fells.

In 1992 the company was going through a transformation from a mediocre distribution company selling voluminous

(Left) Fells has represented Torres wines from Spain since 1992.

(Below) Warre’s Otima, a Fells success story launched in 1999, which raised the profile of the old

(Facing page, top) Graham’s Late Bottled Vintage Port, a staple of the Fells portfolio.

(Facing page, lower) Fells turned Torres

tawny port category that continues to enjoy healthy sales.

Gran Viña Sol into the top selling white wine in the UK.

quantities of inexpensive wines from Baden, Listel, and even Bulls Blood and Smith Woodhouse Ports, to name just a few. The Symington Family, led by James Symington’s vision, decided to create The Premium Agency Partnership that would capture new premium, family-owned producers including Miguel Torres wines from Spain. As part of the negotiation, Torres acquired a 10% share of Fells. The mid to late 1990s was a period of growth and change for Fells – Janneau Armagnac followed me from Seagram (which means I have been involved with that brand and Ricasoli for over 40 years).

The Symington family consolidated their ports into Fells, so Warre’s landed from Hedges and Butler and Graham’s from Matthew Clarke. Robin Walters, Fells Chairman, and Kit Stevens deserve credit for a series of key agency introductions. Within a few short years, ‘The Premium Agency Partnership’ had served its purpose and the new, still expanding agency list was consolidated back into a single Fells Portfolio. My memories of these early years are positive, and Fells was a hive of activity, growing its standing within the trade and adding more and

more people. The business had outgrown its Acton offices and the then MD, Colin McKenzie, organised the acquisition of new bigger offices and parking in Berkhamsted, Herts in 1996.

The growth of the Fells Portfolio and its gifting and port business continued during the 1990s with the likes of Jackson Family Wines, Ricasoli and Torres Chile also coming on board. Meanwhile, Ed Thornton’s gifting business started to scale up, engaging major customers. For me these were great times where my passion was fired by the developing portfolio and a growing sense of pride and confidence to be operating in what was the true wine trade.

In 2000, I was made a legal Director (Sales Director) of the company following several years as an Associate Director. In the years that followed there was continuing growth broadly across the business. Torres Spain responded to my personal recommendations to alter their positioning and distribution strategy in the UK, and these changes unlocked substantial sustained growth that saw Fells move from their 16th largest export customer to their 1st. This has remained the case for more than 15 years and we built Torres Viña Sol to be the number 1 selling white wine in the UK. The growth wasn’t limited to wine alone; Fells secured substantial slices of the UK port market and gifting continued its growth, so much so that it justified a

dedicated gifting display room in the new Fells House. The early 2000’s was a testing time for me personally; my late wife passed from breast cancer in 2002 at the age of just 39, so I became a widower and single parent to Greg and Alex who were just at a primary school age. As I look back, I understand now how much Fells kept me sane, not allowing me to dwell in the negativity of those difficult moments.

In late 2012, Colin McKenzie announced his retirement, and I was offered the position of MD following a meeting with Paul and Johnny Symington in London before Christmas. This was a prize I hadn’t really anticipated, although latterly I had worked increasingly closely with Colin and the Board, but even so this was still a big jump in responsibility. In terms of the value that I felt I could bring by filling the position was the fact I was deeply embedded in the commercial agenda as well as the brand owner relationships, which was another considerable plus. The company’s business growth and the expansion of its agency business continued in the following years and with the help and encouragement of many, I grew into the role of MD, as unlikely a candidate as I felt myself to be at the time.

There were plenty of new learnings and new experiences for me in the years that followed, one of the biggest being the company’s relocation from Berkhamsted to Kings Langley in

During his 30-year career with Fells, the charismatic and commercially savvy Steve Moody helped to transform Fells into the highly regarded fine wine distributor that it is today.

December of 2015. That was quite something! We had outgrown Berko a few years before but finding good freehold offices close by was tricky. Once the move was secured with the help of the Symington Family, the new premises were refitted, and we successfully moved over a weekend during the key December trading period. The timing was madness, risky even, but with the help of Nick Gurney, with whom I worked closely throughout the project, and the support of Instant On IT, we did it without issues, and importantly with no business interruptions. For the staff we created an amazing working environment, probably the finest of any wine distribution company today in the UK. For the Shareholders too, I believe it will prove to be an excellent investment because of the building’s proximity to the M25. We knew the premises were somewhat larger than we required but I believed that Fells needed to and would continue to grow - if we wished to stay relevant to our key customers. I just didn’t know at that point how and when.

Then – out of the blue – the only really useful thing to happen to me through LinkedIn occurred: I was contacted by Simon Thorpe, MD of Negociants (Robert Hill Smith’s UK distribution company). The discussions that followed were friendly and productive, though difficult for the Symington Family as the negotiation required a 10% shareholding in Fells (just as Torres holds). The process was another learning for

me and Nick Gurney who helped hugely to get the deal over the line. My dealings with Adam O’Neill and Nick Waterman were very positive, which no doubt helped, not least because Robert Hill Smith had a number of other options beyond Fells. The deal was done, and the new portfolio came into being in the middle of 2018. This was a transformational moment for Fells – overnight both our profitability increased and another £20m was added to our turnover. Transactionally, this deal really made Fells more important in the eyes of our important customers – a key point worth underlining. The integration of this business, which brought more than a dozen of their staff, was a major exercise for Fells and for much of its management team. Time was moving very, very quickly!

Then, out of nowhere, covid was sprung on us. This was another real test for all of us at Fells. In the early part of 2020, we gave notice for the closure of our offices and overnight, with the help of our IT partner, we equipped everyone to work from home. I remember Alan Campbell telling me that the office closure was an overreaction. The truth is that we had no choice; we were following government instructions. Perversely, covid turned out to be a positive for Fells, owing to the strength of our off-trade business, which brought us two consecutive record years during which we reached an incredible turnover of £89m, with record returns for our shareholders.

(Above and facing page) Yalumba, another high-profile brand in the Fells fine wine portfolio.

(Right) The Symington Vintage Port Day tasting and masterclass at the NoMad, London - May 2024.

(Below) A Fells team visit to Portugal, Spring 1994. Steve Moody, front row centre in the red tie.

‘Building teams within a business is rewarding, and I know the Fells team carried its responsibility well during these eventful and memorable times.

Having been entrusted to develop a vision and sharing this with likeminded people was and remains incredibly rewarding – it has given me a real sense of fulfilment.’

So, what can I take from my reflections of 32 years at Fells?! Firstly, the wine trade was considerably more positive for me than I had expected when I started. A number of people, Paul Symington in particular, helped me to find my confidence and grow into the role. Having been granted such an incredible opportunity to lead Fells during one of the most pivotal chapters of its existence was a tremendous privilege and honour, which few from my humble background rarely get the chance to experience. Being trusted to build teams within a business is rewarding, I know the Fells team carried its responsibility well during these eventful and memorable times. Having been entrusted with the opportunity to develop a vision and sharing this with like-minded people was and remains incredibly rewarding – it has given me a real sense of fulfilment. Then, the people; the UK Wine Trade gives access to the most amazing characters, like those of Tim Stanley-Clark and the utterly amazing Sandy Irvine Robertson from Edinburgh!!

Regrets? Very few, perhaps only that I didn’t continue for a while longer, but when your job is so demanding, you tend to cut short time with your family and loved ones more than you’d want. The time has therefore come to dedicate my time to them, not least to thank them for all the support they have unstintingly given me – I owe them so much.

Looking back, I am proud of what was achieved while I oversaw Fells. It was not easy and there were endless challenges, but we grew into one of the finest and most dynamic UK wine distribution companies and one that is widely respected and admired.

THE BRITISH FACTORY HOUSE OF PORTO

Rupert Symington, Treasurer of the Factory House in 2024, recounts the fascinating history and traditions of the Factory House in Porto, the last of its kind anywhere in the world.

There can be few institutions in the world as unique as the Factory House in Porto, also known as the British Association. Occupying a prime location on the Rua do Infante Dom Henrique (the street formerly called Rua Nova dos Ingleses), the building´s simple but striking Palladian frontage towers over one of the busiest streets at the heart of Porto´s booming Baixa district. But it is the interior decoration and contents of the building which are even more remarkable, details only ever seen by a handful of the visitors who come to our city each year.

The British Factory was originally founded as a commercial association between British merchants living in Porto and trading wool, codfish and wine with Britain. Although the exact foundation date is unclear, it was probably shortly after 1654 when, as a result of the Treaty of Peace and Alliance, signed between the English Commonwealth under Cromwell and the Kingdom of Portugal, British merchants were given greater freedom to reside in Portugal to conduct business. This position was bolstered further in 1662 through the marriage

of the Portuguese Princess, Catherine of Braganza to King Charles II. The first recorded mention of the Factory as such was in 1666. The British Factory was originally funded by a levy on all goods traded between Britain and Northern Portugal, the proceeds going into what was known as the ‘Contribution Fund’ which provided the means to construct such a fine building, while also looking after various aspects of the well-being of the British community in Porto. Of the various similar Factories originally established by British merchants, or Factors, in sea-ports worldwide, this is undoubtedly the last surviving example.

The present Factory House on the Rua Infante D. Henrique (named for Prince Henry the Navigator), was designed and constructed in the Palladian style between 1785 and 1790 by the British Consul, John Whitehead, on the site of an earlier building. He is said to have been influenced by the famous English architect, and his contemporary and friend, John Carr who designed the Hospital de Santo António in Porto (itself in the Palladian style).

The lofty Factory House frontage in the heart of Porto, designed and built in the Palladian style.

(Above) The imposing Entrance Hall with its granite pillars and arched, vaulted ceiling is said to have once served as a mercantile Exchange for the port trade.

(Left) The Factory House is a great ambassador for Vintage Port.

‘The present Factory House on the Rua Infante D.Henrique (named for Prince Henry the Navigator), was designed and constructed in the Palladian style between 1785 and 1790 by the British Consul, John Whitehead, on the site of an earlier building.’

(Above) The drawing room where drinks are served before the traditional Wednesday lunches.

(Below) The twin dining rooms are among the highlights of the House. Guests attending formal dinners are invited to leave the Dining Room after having finished the cheese course, moving through to an identical placement at an identical table in the adjoining Dessert Room.

(Right) The stately ballroom is complete with chandeliers, a minstrels’ gallery and a fully sprung floor for formal dancing.

(Below) Trying to guess the Vintage Port at the wednesday lunch is an entertaining and memorable twohundred-year-old tradition which continues to this day.

The building originally housed the Consulate as well as serving for many years, at different times, as a commercial Exchange, an inn, a Clubhouse, and as a centre of British community social life. The interior decoration, which has survived virtually unchanged, is more English than Portuguese, and much of the furniture and contents are of English provenance including a full-size billiard table.

When Porto fell to the French in 1807 – following the first of two occupations of the city by Napoleonic armies during the Peninsular War – many British merchants were forced to leave for England, and the House was occupied by French troops. Following the re-capture of the City by the Portuguese and British armies (under the command of Sir Arthur Wellesley) in May 1809, merchants were able to return to Porto to resume their business, port shipping having by then become the dominant trade. In 1810, a law was passed in Portugal abolishing foreign Factories, forcing the name to be changed to the British Association, as it is officially known today. The Factory House was finally re-occupied by the Association in 1811, and sadly few records or objects of value survive from before the time of the occupation by the French forces. The House was formally reopened with a celebratory dinner on the 11th day of the 11th month of 1811 in which 11 shippers partook of a meal consisting of 11 courses served by 11 waiters. In 2011, to mark the bicentenary of the reopening of the House, the Treasurer offered members

a formal lunch, on November 11, at 11 o’clock to celebrate the recovery of their House two centuries previously.

In 1832, the British Association was granted a perpetual Lease on the premises by the King of Portugal, D. Miguel, and in 1850 Queen D. Maria II converted this to a Freehold in exchange for the Association agreeing to give up some land for the widening of the Rua de São João. The original ´Remissão de Foro´ document, complete with Royal seal, survives in the archive of the House.

Today, the members of the Factory House continue to be, as historical tradition dictates, representatives of British port shipping interests, and similarly to curators of a museum they are responsible for the conservation of the building and its valuable collection. A Treasurer (equivalent of the President of the Association) is appointed each year by rotation to oversee the upkeep and management of the House. As well as serving as a place for port producers to meet periodically, the rooms are let out from time to time for dining functions at the Members’ discretion. The traditional ‘Wednesday Lunch’ is still held regularly for Members and their guests, who at the end of the meal have to guess a Vintage Port selected at random by the Treasurer. The highlights of the year are the Treasurer´s Dinner with a sumptuous meal graced by a guest speaker, and the Christmas Ball which is held in the splendid ballroom.

The building is on five floors that are accessed by two stone staircases – a grand one for guests, and a smaller one for service staff. A further secret staircase accessible by a hatch in the floor of the drawing room provided a way for the members to discreetly exit the house should there be an unwelcome intrusion up the main stairwell.

The imposing Entrance Hall with its granite pillars and arched, vaulted ceiling is said to have once served as a mercantile Exchange for the port trade, where shippers negotiated prices with farmers for lots of wine. The names of former Treasurers are inscribed on plaques on the walls. Along these walls are benches which were originally used by the bearers of sedan chairs while they waited for their masters to dine. Also on the ground floor is the Newspaper Room and the entrance to the Cellar, which holds a remarkable and unique collection of Vintage Port. Each time a new member firm or a new representative joins the house, it is a requirement to offer the Factory House a few cases of young Vintage Port, and the same is true whenever a member declares a vintage.

The broad granite staircase leading to the upper floors, lit by a large domed skylight, is remarkable for its pillar-less construction. Each step is from a single piece of granite and the landings are embedded in the wall. On the first floor,

The broad granite staircase, lit by a large domed skylight, is remarkable for its pillar-less construction. Each step is from a single piece of granite and the landings are embedded in the wall.

(Above) The Cellars hold a remarkable and unique collection of Vintage Port. Each time a new Member firm or a new Representative joins the house it is a requirement to offer the Factory House a few cases of young Vintage Port, and the same is true whenever a Member declares a vintage.

(Left) The Library holds a fascinating collection of books dating back to 1817, including First Editions of Darwin´s Origin of Species and Keats´ Endymion.

The Map Room houses a valuable collection of maps by Wyld and Cary dated 1835-7 and a pair of Malby globes dating from 1858, as well as an original map of the Douro by James Forrester and a number of other interesting historical artifacts. On the eastern side of the Map Room, the Library holds a fascinating collection of books dating back to 1817, including first editions of Darwin´s Origin of Species and Keats´ Endymion. On the western side, the Writing Room holds an early architectural model of the present Factory House building, as well as early visitors books from 1812, and various other items of interest. Of note is the collection of dance cards from past balls and early letters from the time of the Peninsular War.

Moving to the second floor, the portraits of Consul John Whitehead and Sir William Warre dominate the upper stairwell as well as a classical work from 1798 by the famous Portuguese Court Painter Vieira Portuense. The Drawing or Reception Room contains cabinets displaying examples of Spode and Davenport dessert and tea services from the early 18th century, as well as a collection of old port bottles and glassware, and some imposing portraits of former members. Next door, the stately ballroom is complete with chandeliers, a minstrels’ gallery and a fully sprung floor for formal dancing.

‘Today, the members of the Factory House continue to be, as historical tradition dictates, representatives of British port shipping interests, and similarly to curators of a museum they are responsible for the conservation of the building and its valuable collection.’

The twin dining rooms are perhaps the highlight of a tour of the House. Guests attending formal dinners are invited to leave the Dining Room after having finished the cheese course, moving through to an identical placement at an identical table in the adjoining Dessert Room. The Vintage Port can then be enjoyed in an atmosphere untainted by the smells of food. Each table can seat up to 36 people comfortably.

The old kitchen is at the top of the house (as was typical of Portuguese houses of the period given the risk of fire) and has its original ranges as well as a fine collection of old pans and implements. Prepared food was originally winched down the centre of the service staircase to the dining room below. Next door is the pantry, and cupboards used to store daily copies of ‘The Times’ dating back to 1832. A 100-year-old copy of ‘The Times’ is still laid out before each Wednesday lunch. Also on this floor is the Billiard Room.

The Factory House is an essential port of call for anyone interested in the history of the British community in Porto over the last 200 years, or in the collection of early 18th century furniture, pictures, china, silver and glassware. It is also inextricably linked with the history of the port trade and the collection of port-related artifacts and letters should be of interest to any port aficionado.

(Above) The Map Room houses a valuable collection of maps by Wyld and Cary dated 1835-7 and a pair of Malby globes dating from 1858.

(Left) In the Writing Room, a collection of dance cards from past Balls are on display as well as early letters from the time of the Peninsular War.

The Writing Room holds an early architectural model of the present Factory House building, as well as early visitors books from 1812 and various other items of interest.

‘The Factory House also plays a key role in the promotion of Vintage Port through its traditional Wednesday lunch, and the formal dinners periodically held by members. Trying to guess the Vintage Port at the Wednesday lunch is an entertaining and memorable two-hundred-year-old tradition.’

On display in the Drawing Room, a beautifully framed signature of the last Portuguese King, D. Manuel II, who visited the House on November 1908, two years before the monarchy was abolished in Portugal.

(Above left) The old kitchen is at the top of the house (as was typical of Portuguese houses of the period given the risk of fire) and has its original ranges as well as a fine collection of old pans and implements.

(Above) A hundred-year-old copy of ‘The Times’ is still laid out in the Drawing Room before each Wednesday lunch.

The Factory House also plays a key role in the promotion of Vintage Port through its traditional Wednesday lunch and the formal dinners periodically held by members. Trying to guess the Vintage Port at the Wednesday lunch is an entertaining and memorable 200-year-old tradition that continues to this day.

Symington Family Estates is lucky to count three of its port shipping firms as full members, and the family is very much involved in the running of the Association. Paul Symington is currently President of the Conselho de Administração (executive board), and Rupert Symington took his turn by rotation as the designated Treasurer for 2024. We are extremely fortunate to be part of such an amazing tradition, where only seven Member Houses remain of the considerable number of British firms that historically made up the Association.

While we make every effort to use the House for entertaining our trade guests, an absolutely unforgettable experience for all who visit, and despite a modest income from third party dinner events, the Factory represents a significant annual cost to its Member Houses. In the interest of reducing these running costs the Conselho de Administração is currently working on a plan to open the House to the wider public. This will be done in such a way as not to fundamentally change the character of the building or its contents, preserving the very special atmosphere of the Factory House that we have enjoyed for so many years. We look forward to a new chapter in the history of the House with its extraordinary architecture, décor and collection of memorabilia finally accessible to a much larger audience.

The Factory House entrance hall, or Piazza, is divided into three aisles with Tuscan pilasters and six columns supporting shallow vaults.

‘The imposing Entrance Hall with its granite pillars and arched, vaulted ceiling is said to have once served as a mercantile Exchange for the port trade, where shippers negotiated prices with farmers for lots of wine.’

Palladianism: style of architecture based on the writings and buildings of the Italian, Andrea Palladio (1508–80), perhaps the greatest architect of the latter 16th century and certainly one of the most influential. Palladio felt that architecture should be governed by reason and by the principles of classical antiquity. Palladianism denotes rationality in its clarity, order, and symmetry, while it also pays homage to antiquity in its use of classical forms and decorative motifs.

It was Inigo Jones, a 16th and 17th century British architect who founded the English classical tradition of architecture, that introduced Palladian architecture into England. Upon his return from a trip to Italy (1613–14), Jones

created a Palladian style in London; this style was based upon the knowledge he had acquired from his study of Palladio’s writings and from his own first-hand examination of ancient and Renaissance architecture.

In the 18th century, a revival of Palladianism in England spread to Italy and subsequently throughout most of Europe and the American colonies. Before leaving England for Porto in 1756, John Whitehead would have certainly been familiar with the Palladian style so fashionable in England during the first half of that century. Furthermore, there was considerable British influence in town planning in Porto during this period in which the city saw rapid expansion.

NOTES ON THE PALLADIAN ARCHITECTURAL STYLE

EASTERN PROMISE

Jorge Nunes, Asia Pacific Market Manager, looks back at his experiences in the Southeast Asia and Asia Pacific regions, developing the market for port and other Symington wines.

Jorge Nunes

Asia Pacific Market Manager

Symington Family Estates Autumn 2024

12 years. Has it really been that long? Feels like yesterday that I first moved to Asia. In the Spring of 2012, after almost four years to the date that I first set foot in Hong Kong, I moved into this exciting city to manage the region for Symington Family Estates. My work here had started back in 2008, when I was asked if I wanted to travel to Asia and help build a Port and Douro market for the company.

I was fascinated by the Far East for as long as I could remember, so the decision was easy. The move to Asia coincided with Vinexpo Hong Kong, and it just happened that I met my now wife at that show. She was a salesperson for a wine software company and came to our booth to make a pitch to Symington as a potential customer. I had no interest in the product, but I was certainly interested in the salesperson! We got married in Hong Kong in 2018, and for that reason – and for many more – the city will forever be in my heart.

12 years. They feel like half of that. Perhaps because of how fast this region runs. Everything is fast, everything can’t wait, everything is now! A far cry from our European mentality, where the slow pace of life is preferred, where nothing is never really too urgent. It has been and continues to be a privilege to live in Asia and witness the growth of this enormous region. There have been countless ups and downs, but the trend is undoubtedly positive.

With the addition of Oceania to the markets under my responsibility, I now handle the whole Asia-Pacific (APAC) region for SFE. It remains a comparatively small part of the company’s revenue, dwarfed by larger and more mature markets such as the UK, Portugal, Belgium, the Netherlands and the US. But over the last 12 years, we have made great progress and are now the dominant Douro company in the region.

We lead in the premium Port category and are distributed across the whole region. Certainly not all my doing, I was lucky enough to inherit a fantastic distribution network of importers from the great work of both Euan Mackay, our former Commercial Director, and our agent in the region, Jannik Von Freiesleben

(Left) At a port masterclass in Tokyo, Japan – 2023.

(Below left) Preparing Vintage Port for a tasting during the 2024 Bacchus Wine event, Taiwan, November 2024.

‘Tireless and frequent travelling is a key element of the job. There is nothing like visiting the markets, meeting our importers and their customers, learning their dynamics and what works and what doesn’t, and all this whilst seeing so many different cultures and visiting unique destinations.’

(Above) With Harry Symington, presenting Vintage Port in Taiwan, November 2024.

(Below) At a Factory House Commercial Dept. Christmas dinner with Euan Mackay, Sofia Zhang and Johnny Symington.

(FGA Asia), who we worked with until 2012. I’ve also been very fortunate for having the fantastic support of Leonor Leão, my ‘sister in arms’ who has accompanied me since the beginning of my adventure in Asia, as well as my colleague Thomas Yang, and former colleague Sofia Zhang.

APAC is a long-term project for SFE. The family understands the patience and the investment needed to achieve the ambitious targets we have for the region. We certainly are not there yet, but the groundwork is being done to achieve a sustainable and profitable business in the future. No other Douro-focused company is investing at the level that SFE is, whether in human resources, or the investment put behind our brands and importers. Port has proven a more successful proposition than still wines for now, though the level of innovation and brand content we are creating for the latter, is opening many doors for their development. I wish more Portuguese companies would join SFE in developing this part of the world. Developing sales of a whole new category of wines by ourselves isn’t easy. A stronger involvement from other industry players is welcome and needed, particularly if the objective is growing the premium categories.

Tireless and frequent travelling is a key element of the job. There is nothing like visiting the markets, meeting our importers and their customers, learning their dynamics and what works and what doesn’t. It was one of the things that

attracted me the most to this job, the possibility of seeing so many different cultures, visiting unique destinations, sample their excellent food or indeed the more challenging ones – I’m looking at you, stinky tofu!

Covid came out of nowhere and it impacted everything. In the way we conducted our business, how we interacted with our customers, how we managed our sales. In many ways it was very positive for our business, as many consumers took the opportunity of being stuck at home to try out our wines, like in Korea, Indonesia or Taiwan. But being stuck in a (typical) small Hong Kong house and not being able to travel at all was too difficult to handle and thus my decision of moving to Singapore in early 2022. And how different these two cities are. Whereas Hong Kong was exciting, fast-paced and energetic, Singapore is calm, slower-paced and more sedate. The house, however, is certainly a bit bigger…

My work in the APAC region isn’t done yet. I still hope to call this faraway land “home” for years to come. The combination of welcoming people, diverse cultures, awesome food, and overall safety and comfort of living, make it a great place to be. And my mission to continue opening up markets and distribution for the Symington Family, as well as the broader role of building a sustainable Portuguese wine market, is still very much in its infancy. Plenty to do and to keep me busy, and I look forward to continuing to do so!

(Left) Presenting a port masterclass in Hong Kong, 2024.

(Below) Presenting ports to a group of international sommeliers, summer 2024.

ATAÍDE WINERY: DÉBUT VINTAGE AND LEED CERTIFICATION

Our new dream winery was concluded just in time for its inaugural vintage in 2023, and in 2024 the facility was awarded LEED certification, the first winery in Portugal to receive it.

Charles Symington and Luís Loureiro

The 2023 harvest marked an exciting and seminal moment in our family’s commitment to sustainable winemaking and our Douro DOC ambitions. After six years of meticulous planning and building, we finally opened our new low-impact winery, Adega do Ataíde, which is located at our Vilariça Valley estate, Quinta do Ataíde, in the east of the Douro. This is one of our family’s most ambitious projects to date and reflects our confidence in the future of premium Douro DOC wines. It is the new home for the red wines that we make from our Quinta do Ataíde and Quinta do Vesúvio estates and our Altano Reserve and Organic Red wines.

Aerial view of the Ataíde winery, set in the Vilariça Valley - Douro Superior subregion.

Some of the key team members that contributed to the design of

(Left) The viewing platform atop the

which commands 360° views of the surrounding landscape.

(Above)

the winery: Artur Moreira, Hugo Almeida, Charles Symington, Pedro Correia and the building’s architect, Luís Loureiro.

winery’s roof,

(Top) The main fermentation hall. Note the skylights in the wooden roof. These provide natural light and ventilation, as required.

(Above) The grape reception area from where the grapes are gravity fed to the fermentation vats, one storey below.

Inspired and underpinned by the family’s long-term commitment to sustainability and innovation, the winery was designed by an in-house team of architects, engineers, and winemakers to produce wines of the highest quality and to be highly efficient in energy and water use. There is no doubt that the winery’s outstanding functionality and efficiency – clearly demonstrated during this first vintage – is almost entirely attributable to the close spirit of cooperation between the highly competent and knowledgeable company teams that brought together all their experience, technical know-how and expertise to the well thought out design and construction of the facility. They can and should be immensely proud of what they have achieved.

The design and layout of the building and the choice of equipment also owes much to the expertise and experience we have amassed over the years in our existing wineries.

(Above and below left) Note how the solar panels, which line the entirety of the roof’s perimeter, project long shadows onto the building’s sides, thus helping to cool the interior.

The

integrate

(Below right – facing page) The winery is highly energy efficient and maximum LEED credits were obtained for: Optimizing Energy Performance; Renewable Energy Production, and Green Power and Carbon Offsets.

(Above)

winery’s green roof helps to seamlessly

the building into the landscape, mitigating its visual signature.

Furthermore, besides the value we place on empirical knowledge, we have always kept abreast of the latest advances in winemaking technology, and I have no doubt that the Ataíde Winery is at the top of its game, an absolutely world class, advanced winemaking facility.

I was very impressed by how our winemaking team adapted to working with the new state-of-the-art equipment, and the quality of the wines that we produced in the debut harvest. The first 10 days were dedicated to running trials, equipment testing and fine-tuning procedures. While we encountered a few teething problems, the team was quick to find solutions and soon found its pace for the rest of the harvest. The new winery didn’t just deliver what we had hoped for, it surpassed all our expectations, and we are excited by the tremendous scope for fine wine production that it offers going forward.

The winery is strategically located amidst our largest plantings of Douro DOC vineyards (a significant proportion of which are organically farmed) in the Vilariça Valley, Douro Superior. Proximity to this extensive vineyard holding is key to deliver grapes in ideal, fresh condition on the winery doorstep, with the

added bonus of a considerable reduction in our carbon footprint from not having to transport grapes offsite.

Winemaking features and innovations

Gravity-flow winery: Ataíde is a gravity-flow winery where the building’s layout on split levels (using the sloping terrain to best advantage) harnesses gravity to replace mechanical pumps for moving grapes around the facility. In the winery’s upper level, the grapes are de-stemmed and gently crushed directly into feeder containers which are relayed by an overhead bridge crane for gravity transfer to the fermentation vats one storey below. As well as preserving fruit integrity, purity and freshness, this system is also energy-saving.

Air-mixing: The winery has fermentation vats equipped with an air-mixing feature. Air injected into the vats creates a naturally ascending movement of the fermenting must, in effect a pumping over system in reverse where the use of pumps and hoses to circulate the must is dispensed with, which besides saving energy favours the quality of the wine.

‘As Portugal’s first certified B Corporation wine company, over the last few years we have been implementing a far-reaching sustainability strategy across our entire process from vineyard to bottle, and the Ataíde winery is one of its most visible calling cards.’

Concrete dual function fermentation/ageing vats: The thermal inertia of concrete means that temperature oscillations are minimal inside the vats – a prerequisite for ideal fermentation conditions. Furthermore, given the porosity of concrete, these vats are also used for ageing (complementary to barrel-ageing) as they allow a degree of natural micro-oxygenation of the wine, with the advantages that brings to its aromatic and flavour profiles.

Carbon capture: The winery’s construction leveraged our research into carbon capture. The principle is not just to avoid releasing naturally occurring CO2 from fermentations into the atmosphere, but to sequester it and subsequently convert it into a calcium carbonate compound that can be used to regulate soil pH. Our teams have led the field in this technology in Portugal, and we are incorporating this feature in the fermentation vats.

Fermentation hall layout: The fermentation hall is organised in two sections: Fine Wines and Premium Wines. The Fine Wines area houses the highest capacity vats and all are fitted with the air-mixing functionality for the totally automatic management of the macerations. Conversely, in the Premium Wines section, we use much less automation and basically, follow more traditional procedures in the pumping over and rack and return processes.

Refrigeration chambers: The winery has two refrigeration chambers adjacent to the grape reception area. This allows freshly picked grapes, not immediately earmarked for fermentation, to be cold stored overnight for vinification early on the following day, thus preserving all the fruits’ freshness and prepping the grapes to begin fermentation at a desired, preset temperature.

LEED certification - Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design - 2024

As Portugal’s first certified B Corporation wine company, over the last few years we have been implementing a farreaching sustainability strategy across our entire process from vineyard to bottle, and the Ataíde winery is one of its most visible calling cards.

One of the building’s most eye-catching features is the 2,700m2 green ‘living’ roof, covered with indigenous vegetation, which reflects the biodiversity and ecosystem of the surrounding area.

The scope and scale of this investment reflected our ambition of pushing the boundaries regarding environmental conservation, and the building’s architecture and the winemaking philosophy it embodies were guided by the parameters set out under the US Green Building Council program known as LEED, or Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design. LEED is a globally recognised symbol of excellence in green building. It is a holistic system that doesn’t just consider one building element but instead looks at the big picture, factoring in all critical elements. Central to its purpose is to contribute to a reduction in global climate change through its robust framework for sustainable buildings.

Using the guidance provided by the LEED certification program, we designed the winery with clearly defined objectives to reduce carbon emissions, to optimise efficient and clean energy use, to lessen the strain on limited water resources and to merge the building into the surrounding landscape in order to minimise its environmental impact.

In April 2024, we received confirmation that Adega do Ataíde had become the first LEED certified winery in Portugal and only the third in Europe. The winery was also the first in Europe to surpass the 60 LEED points threshold, enabling it to achieve the demanding LEED GOLD rating. This represents the 4th highest LEED points score of all the wineries in the world which have so far attained the certification, of which there are currently a total of 50. The Ataíde Winery achieved a remarkable 100% LEED credits in water and energy efficiency.

In the Official LEED Certification Review Report for the Ataíde winery, high scores were awarded in the following parameters: ‘Sustainable Sites’ (6 of 10); ‘Water Efficiency’ (11 of 11); ‘Energy and Atmosphere’ (29 of 33); ‘Innovation’ (5 of 6); ‘Regional Priority Credits’ (3 of 4). Under the ‘Energy and Atmosphere’ measuring parameter, maximum LEED credits were obtained for: Optimizing Energy Performance; R enewable Energy Production and Green Power and Carbon Offsets

(Right) The solar panels provide all the facility’s energy requirements, except during the busiest vintage periods when some additional energy is required, but even then, it is sourced exclusively from renewable sources (hydro, wind or solar). Throughout the year, surplus energy is fed to the national grid.

Living soil roof: One of the building’s most eye-catching features is the 2,700m2 green ‘living’ roof, covered with indigenous vegetation, which reflects the biodiversity and ecosystem of the surrounding area. This vegetation was sourced locally and transferred to a nursery ready to be replanted on the roof during the spring of 2023. The north-facing façade of the winery will also eventually be covered with vegetation to further contribute to the building’s integration in the landscape and to provide natural shade.

The roof is comprised of steel beams which support a secondary webbed structure of wooden beams. These in turn hold oriented strand board (OSB) wood panels that form the base of the roof’s waterproofing systems and vegetal covering layer. 24 skylights provide natural lighting and ventilation for the whole fermentation hall.

The roof’s perimeter is entirely lined with a metal grid structure supporting solar panels (totalling 700m 2) capable of generating all the building’s energy needs and making it – in LEED

terminology – a ‘positive energy building’ meaning it produces more energy than it consumes. Power surplus to requirements is fed to the national grid. Aside from generating electricity, the solar panels create large shaded areas that help to regulate the building’s interior ambient temperature.

Water efficiency: The winery attains maximum levels of water efficiency and captures 100% LEED credits in this regard. It has its own sources of water and a water treatment plant that caters to all its needs. The production processes incorporate efficient water usage, including waste water treatment so that water resources can be reused, principally for irrigation of the vegetation, which forms the landscaping around the winery.

Zero impact: Rainfall drainage around the building controls sudden flows of water to prevent the impacts of terrain erosion, and the carefully laid out landscaping incorporates water retention basins and infiltration wells to benefit the soil in the winery’s surrounding area.

(Left, facing page) The fermentation hall, showing the gravity feed layout, with the grape reception area on the left, one level above the fermentation vats to the right.

FRUITS OF STRUGGLE, NEW BEGINNINGS AND BACK TO THE FUTURE

An overview of the 2022, 2023 and 2024 harvests

Charles Symington

FRUITS OF STRUGGLE: THE 2022 HARVEST

Charles Symington · Quinta do Bomfim · October 2022

As our harvest preparations began, we knew that we were facing unprecedented conditions in the Douro. The three months before the vintage were among the hottest and driest ever recorded and, according to the Portuguese Met Office, the country had been in severe drought since the winter.

Over the last few years, we have grown accustomed to breaking records; from the earliest harvest in 2017, to the wettest spring in 2018, and the lowest yields in 2020. With rising average temperatures, increasingly erratic and declining rainfall, and more frequent and more intense summer heatwaves, the impact of the climate crisis is very real in the Douro.

On the eve of the 2022 harvest, we faced some of the greatest challenges that our family has seen; conditions were so extraordinary that nobody knew how the vines would bear up.

A grape picker makes a brief pause to admire the commanding view at Quinta do Vesúvio.

Unknown territory

Between November 2021 and August 2022, Quinta do Bomfim in the heart of the Douro recorded just 170 mm of rain, a 70% reduction compared to the 30-year average and the fourth consecutive year of below average rainfall in our region: 2021 (-29%), 2020 (-30%), 2019 (-22%).

The dryness of the soils was exacerbated by higher-than-average temperatures. We had a succession of heatwaves that were longer than usual. June saw a heatwave lasting seven days in the Cima Corgo, and nine days in the Douro Superior. Portugal had the hottest July since 1931. Pinhão recorded the highest ever temperature in the country at an extraordinary 47°C. We had a very long July heatwave lasting 15 days, with nine days above 40°C followed by two further heatwaves in August.

The impact on the vines was significant and the bunches and berries were smaller than usual. We braced ourselves for one of the earliest, shortest, and smallest harvests ever.

Our earliest ever harvest

August maturation studies showed low sugar readings and acidity levels due to the drought. However, phenolic ripeness was advanced and given that the hot and dry weather was forecast to continue, we decided to start picking in the Douro Superior on 22nd August, including Graham’s Vale de Malhadas, Cockburn’s Quinta dos Canais, and Dow’s Senhora da Ribeira. This was the earliest we have ever picked grapes in the Douro. On 29th August we started at our Cima Corgo estates, including Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos, Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim, and Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha.

(Top) The harvest underway at Quinta dos Canais.

(Left) Treading grapes in one of the lagares at Quinta do Vesúvio.

Traditional foot-treading started in the granite lagares at Quinta do Vesúvio on 29th August after a two-year hiatus due to covid. Never in the history of this great estate had treading started in the winery (dating back to 1827) in August.

We started with the earlier-ripening varieties in our lowerlying vineyards: Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Amarela, Sousão, Tinta Barroca, and our old vines. While acidity levels were low, the lagares had good colour. We have 131 hectares of very old vines scattered across our estates. Their deep roots allow them to find humidity to ripen their grapes and most appeared to have hardly noticed the drought. Yields from these old vines were typically low, but they were much less impacted than our younger vineyards.

The turning point

The outlook changed in the first week of September when average daytime temperatures thankfully dropped to between 22°C and 25°C, allowing maturations to progress more evenly and gradually.

The indigenous Douro grape varieties showed their characteristic resilience and adapted by producing bunches that were 10 to 15%

lighter than average. Yields were not as dramatically low as we had feared and higher-lying plots – from 350 to 580 metres –performed well. Our white grapes were a surprise with production 8% below 2021 but with near ideal sugar levels and acidity.

We picked half of our Touriga Nacional between the 5th and 11th September, and we were relieved by how well it performed, producing good wines with deep colour and moderate Baumés (12°- 13°). By 11th September, we had picked 60% of our grapes. Aside from the remaining plots of Nacional, we still had to pick all the Touriga Franca, which had not yet fully ripened. The cooler temperatures improved our fortunes, but it was the rain that really changed the game.

The longest break

Given that rain was only forecast for a few days, on 9th September we decided to stop harvesting for 10 days – the longest we have ever paused picking, a risk worth taking if we were to make the best possible wines. We had between 30 and 42mm of rain across our properties from the 12th to 15th September, followed by a gradual rise in temperatures – ideal for the final stage of ripening of the Francas and the remaining Nacional.

Although 2022 was one of the hottest and driest years ever recorded, rain in midSeptember (here at Senhora da Ribeira) had us interrupting the harvest for 10 days – the longest we have ever paused picking.

We restarted on the 19th and were pleased with the final plots of Touriga Nacional. The Touriga Franca in the Cima Corgo delivered well-ripened fruit with fermentations above 13° Baumé and excellent colour, although in the Douro Superior it was more inconsistent, and in many cases, maturations did not progress as well as we had hoped.

The viticulture and winery teams worked flat out through one of the most challenging Douro harvests and we made some promising wines despite the astonishing conditions. Overall, yields were 20% below average, much better than we had anticipated and 2022 will be remembered as the harvest when the resilience of the vines was tested to the very limit. The year showed – more than we could have ever imagined — that our vines can still perform well with much less water and higher temperatures. I was impressed by the vines’ hardiness, and we can draw some confidence in our ability to face a future with more harvests like this one.

Looking ahead

We expect to see further challenging years in the Douro due to increasing impacts of climate change. The trend is for an increase in average temperatures, less rainfall, and more frequent heatwaves. Seven of the last ten years have seen rainfall well below the 30-year average, while average growing season temperatures have increased by +2.3% from 1966 to 2021.

Although our varieties have proven to be incredibly resilient and the Douro’s mountainous terroir provides a variety of microclimates, we need to see a far more ambitious reduction in global CO2 emissions this decade. As members of International Wineries for Climate Action, we have committed to conducting annual audited end-to-end carbon footprints whilst working to reduce our emissions in line with the UN’s science-based targets.

The harvest at Quinta da Cavadinha in 2022. Quality here was so good that we decided to bottle in 2024 some Warre’s Quinta da Cavadinha Vintage Port, which has since received excellent reviews.

NEW BEGINNINGS: THE 2023 HARVEST

Charles Symington, Quinta do Bomfim · October 2023

A new Douro DOC winery

The 2023 harvest marked an exciting and seminal moment in our family’s commitment to sustainable winemaking and our Douro DOC ambitions. After six years of meticulous planning and building, we finally opened our new low-impact winery, Adega do Ataíde, located at Quinta do Ataíde in the Vilariça Valley, Douro Superior. It is one of the family’s most ambitious projects to date and affirms our confidence in the future of premium Douro DOC wines. This dream winery not only delivered what we had hoped for, it surpassed all our expectations.

High expectations

Following a succession of challenging harvests in the Douro with prolonged heatwaves, droughts, and low yields, on the eve of the 2023 harvest we were well placed to have one of the highest quality vintages in recent years.

The year’s growth cycle had been largely favourable, with abundant rainfall through the winter and late spring replenishing soil water reserves, after one of the driest years in 2022. While much of southern Europe experienced intense heatwaves over the summer, Portugal was largely spared. Although there was no rainfall in the Douro in July and almost none in August, the combination of good soil moisture and moderate temperatures, set the scene for a very promising vintage.

While we had some perfectly timed rain at the beginning of September, which had a positive effect on the development of colour, tannins and aromas in the wines made in the first few weeks of the month, the weather turned against us in the final stages of the harvest.

(Above) In the winery’s upper level, the grapes are de-stemmed and gently crushed directly into feeder containers which are relayed by an overhead bridge crane for gravity transfer to the fermentation vats.

(Right) Grape reception area at the Ataíde Winery during the début – 2023 – vintage.

Fortunately, most of our Touriga Nacional and some of our finest plots of Touriga Franca had advanced maturations and good phenolic ripening, meaning we could harvest them before the heavy rain struck. Although 2023 may not have been the exceptional harvest that we were expecting, I was very pleased with the quality of what we made – particularly from our estates in the Cima Corgo sub-region.

An early and positive start

We started the harvest on August 21st picking Viosinho grapes from two estates above 500 metres – Quinta das Netas in the Pinhão Valley and the Tapadinha vineyard in the Rio Torto Valley. With very good levels of acidity and quantities 10% above our estimates, this was a great start to the vintage.

From August 29th, we began picking selected parcels of Sousão, Tinta Amarela, and the old, mixed vines from our Douro Superior estates as well as Dow’s Quinta do Bomfim and Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos and Quinta do Tua in the Cima Corgo.

As we prepared to harvest our red grapes in earnest, we were dealt a great hand with perfectly timed rain on September 3rd. This was followed by a week of dry, sunny weather, offering us ideal conditions for picking the earlier ripening varieties: Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Barroca and old, mixed vines. These gave good fermentations with good colour and ideal Baumé readings.

A second bout of rain arrived on September 9th, with 20.6mm at Bomfim over three days bringing the total rainfall for the first 11 days of the month to 33.6mm (equivalent to a full month’s rainfall there). As a result, we paused picking and assessed the state of the vines and ripening of the grapes. Despite the short, sharp bursts of rain, conditions were still in place for maturations to continue favourably.

‘In future, we do expect to see increasingly challenging years in the Douro because of the impacts of climate change. We believe we are well prepared to manage these harvests due to advances in our vineyard management and in our wineries, together with the experience of our teams.’

Dry, sunny weather returned, and we harvested our finest parcels of Touriga Nacional at most of our estates in these ideal conditions. We had lagares between 13-14° Baumé with excellent colour and fantastic aromas. We picked the Stone Terraces at Malvedos (delivering an impressive lagar) and a few parcels of Touriga Franca just in time to avert another volley of rainfall.

Tipping point

The third period of rain came in mid-September and was considerably more than what we had expected – on one day we recorded 32mm at Bomfim. Fortunately, we had already harvested our best Touriga Nacional, and what remained to be picked was still in good condition due to advanced maturations. Although the volume of rain was considerable, it was mostly limited to short-lived thunderstorms, which had less impact on the vines.

We were quite apprehensive as we started picking the lateripening Touriga Franca. Although Baumés were indeed a little short of ideal, the skins of the Francas released a lot of colour and flavour due to the phenolic development progressing well through the month, despite the rain.

Assessment

On balance, we had a good vintage and made some very good wines up until the third week of September – particularly in the Cima Corgo sub-region of the Douro. The wines are balanced, with good levels of acidity underpinning freshness. The Touriga Nacional performed especially well with good maturations and near perfect phenolic ripeness.

While the third period of rain did have some impact on the Touriga Franca, the absence of extreme heat and the good level of soil moisture allowed maturations to progress over the summer. As a result, the phenolics were predominantly ripe by the time we harvested the Franca in September.

Total production across our estates in the Douro was 30% above 2022 although when compared to the last decade, 2023 was an average-sized vintage.

(Left) The 2023 harvest at Quinta da Fonte Souto produced some particularly fine white wines. The Arinto (shown here) showed excellent quality.

(Right) The modern lagares at Quinta da Cavadinha in the Pinhão Valley.

Alentejo – Quinta da Fonte Souto

The 2023 harvest began at Quinta da Fonte Souto on August 7 with the estate’s Verdelho. This was the earliest harvest at Fonte Souto in the last 20 years. Fortunately, this early start was not a result of the heatwaves experienced by much of Europe this summer – Portugal was largely spared extreme weather. We had an early growth cycle brought about by a wet winter and an unseasonably warm spring, with maturations progressing at a gradual pace, culminating in balanced ripening. The last grapes came into the winery on October 13th, meaning we had an unprecedented two-month long harvest at the estate.

Meticulous vintage planning translated into selective picking of specific rows of vineyard at just the right level of maturity. Twice the monthly average rainfall prompted our bold decision to pause picking several times to allow the vines to benefit from the rain and to wait for drier, warmer weather to return. This paid off and we had fine conditions for ripening in the final stages of the harvest.

The vintage at Fonte Souto was very impressive, with the white grapes in particular showing great promise. The moderate conditions of the year originated fresh, aromatic, wellstructured and balanced wines.

Monção e Melgaço Vinho Verde – Casa de Rodas

We had a short debut harvest at our new property, Casa de Rodas, in the Monção-Melgaço sub-region of the Vinho Verde DOC. This was our first harvest since acquiring the property in 2022, which also involved the creation of a joint venture with legendary Vinho Verde producer, Anselmo Mendes, to produce and distribute the wines from this historic estate.

Our viticulture team liaised with Anselmo Mendes in the lead up to and during the harvest, at which point the grapes were taken to his winery to produce our first wines from the property. Some good quality Alvarinho wines were made, and we look forward to releasing them for the first time under our ownership.

(Above) Picking Verdelho at Quinta da Fonte Souto, 2023 harvest.

(Left) Picking Alvarinho grapes during our inaugural harvest at Casa de Rodas in the Monção-Melgaço subregion of the Vinho Verde appellation.

BACK TO THE FUTURE: THE 2024 HARVEST

Charles Symington, Quinta do Bomfim · October 2024

The return of an old-style Douro vintage

Following a succession of challenging growth cycles in recent years, marked by erratic rainfall, prolonged heatwaves and unsettled harvest weather, 2024 saw the return of an old-style Douro vintage with more typical conditions leading to an excellent harvest producing exceptional wines.

While my father and grandfather would usually start harvesting from mid-September in the Douro, over the last few years we have grown accustomed to seeing advanced maturations due to unusually warm weather. The ‘new normal’ has been to start picking in the last week of August. Grape varieties that would typically ripen sequentially have often been ready for harvesting at the same time. Nevertheless, a combination of the resilience of the indigenous grape varieties and the skills of our viticulturists and winemakers meant we were able to produce some very good to exceptional wines in the very hot and dry years of 2017, 2018, 2020 and 2022.

By comparison, however, the 2024 viticultural year brought average levels of accumulated rainfall and close to (or marginally below) average temperatures. As a result, flowering and veraison began on dates that are considered more usual in the Douro.

While global climate records were broken in 2024 (with the hottest April ever recorded – 1.58°C above the 1850-1900 pre-industrial average), the Douro enjoyed more moderate conditions, in line with the 30-year average. This led to gradual ripening of the grapes with balanced sugar and acidity, without some of the excesses that we have experienced over the last few years. The quality of fruit produced was excellent, and placed in the hands of our skilled winemakers led to some outstanding ports and Douro DOC wines being made.

In future, we do expect to see increasingly challenging years in the Douro because of the impacts of climate change. We believe we are well prepared to manage these harvests due to advances in our vineyard management and in our wineries, together with the experience of our teams. But for now, we have enjoyed the return of a more familiar viticultural year and harvest, and I’m absolutely delighted with the remarkable quality of the 2024 wines, which I look forward to reviewing over the coming months.

The 2024 harvest gets underway at Quinta do Bomfim.

Douro – a harmonious harvest

Our 2024 harvest started in the Douro on 22nd August with Viosinho (white) grapes at our high-altitude vineyards. We started picking Sousão on 4th September and other earlier ripening red grape varieties – Alicante Bouschet, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Roriz, and old mixed vines – from 9th September.

Weather conditions through September were near perfect, delivering a gradual pace of maturations and a classic sequence of harvesting different grape varieties – each at the optimum point of ripening. Moderate daytime temperatures and cool nights led to ideal phenolic development, colour and excellent acidity. The grapes arrived in our wineries at an ideal 20-22°C, requiring no cooling or heating during most fermentations, something we have not seen for some years.

Although there was no rain at all in August, our vineyards were in very fine condition in September, thanks to the sustenance provided by the soil water reserves from the generous rainfall earlier in the growing season. As the harvest progressed into the second week of September, our optimism grew steadily and we were confident that we were on track for an exceptional vintage.

The key barometer for our harvests in the Douro is the quality of the Touriga Nacional and Touriga Franca – for both ports and Douro DOC wines. We started harvesting the Nacional across our estates from 16th September with incredibly promising results. Baumés were a near perfect 13°- 14° with balanced acidity as well as excellent colour and aromas. The Touriga Nacional lagar from the stone terraces at Graham’s Quinta dos Malvedos gave an impressive 13.9° Baumé, showing great promise.

In recent years, the late ripening Touriga Franca has often fallen just short of its full potential due to unstable weather conditions. This year, the Francas were harvested in the last week of September in very favourable conditions – with mild daytime temperatures and cool nights greatly benefitting the fermentations. The quality of the Touriga Franca was excellent, producing wines with very good levels of concentration and all the classic aromas of this fine grape variety.

It has been a while since we have had such a great alignment between the ripening of the different grape varieties; consistently favourable weather both in the lead up to and during the harvest; fruit in such impeccable healthy condition, and fermentations of such excellent quality.

(Left and facing page) Various impressions of the harvest at Quinta do Bomfim. The picker’s smiling face sums up the fantastic quality of the grapes harvested in 2024.

(Above) The Quinta do Bomfim Lagar Winery crew, led by Nelson, in the centre with the black polo.

(Left) Treading in one of the granite lagares at Quinta do Vesúvio. Here too, the team had plenty to smile about, such was the marvellous colour and the wonderful aromas of the musts.

Portalegre

Alentejo – Quinta da Fonte Souto

The harvest at our Alentejo estate, Quinta da Fonte Souto, began on 16th August with the Verdelho. This was followed on the 19th by the Aragonez, which is used to make the estate’s rosé. By the 26th we began picking the Arinto, which represents the linchpin of the property’s white wines. As in the Douro, the harvesting conditions were perfect, with below average rainfall and relatively cool temperatures delivering ideal ripening.

We produced some exceptional rosé and white wines, which reinforces our belief that Quinta da Fonte Souto (between 490 to 550 metres altitude) near the São Mamede range possesses a remarkable terroir with great winemaking potential. The estate’s plantings of Alfrocheiro, which gave us a magnificent red wine in 2019, once again performed superbly and we have every reason to hope that 2024 will produce another outstanding single varietal red.

The last to be picked were the finest plots of Fonte Souto’s other signature red grape varieties – Alicante Bouschet, Syrah and Touriga Nacional, providing the components for the estate red and the flagship Vinha do Souto wine. These ferments were very promising and will undoubtedly complement the whites in showing an outstanding year for Quinta da Fonte Souto.

Monção and Melgaço

Vinho Verde – Casa de Rodas

2024 marked the second harvest at our 100% Alvarinho estate, Casa de Rodas, in the Monção and Melgaço sub-region of the Vinho Verde DOC. The vintage ran from the 6th to 9th September under very fine conditions. The grapes reached their ideal point of maturity with very good levels of acidity. Once picked, they were taken to our partner Anselmo Mendes’s winery for vinification, where they produced some very high-quality wines. Yields were higher than our debut harvest last year due to the meticulous care that our viticulture team employed through a challenging growing season.

(Below) Early morning start to the day’s picking at Quinta da Fonte Souto, Portalegre.

(Lower) Pedro Leal da Costa, Symington head of viticulture, and our partner in Monção and Melgaço, Anselmo Mendes check some incoming Alvarinho, freshly picked from Casa de Rodas.

Average temperature and precipitation % departure from normal at Pinhão (Quinta do Bomfim), 1980 – 2024.

Monthly rainfall compared to the average. Quinta do Bomfim weather station: 2022, 2023 and 2024 viticultural years.

2021 - 2022 rainfall (mm)

2022 - 2023 rainfall (mm)

2023 - 2024 rainfall (mm)

Rainfall, 30-year average (mm)

Average monthly temperatures compared to the 30-year average (Quinta do Bomfim weather station).

2021 - 2022 monthly averages (°C)

2022 - 2023 monthly averages (°C)

2023 - 2024 monthly averages (°C)

30-year monthly averages (°C)

Alvarinho grapes from our Monção-Melgaço vineyard estate: Casa de Rodas.

Acquisition of a 50% stake in Caves Transmontanas

July 2022

For quite some time we had been considering investing in the Portuguese sparkling wine industry, which we believe has strong potential for value growth and for leveraging reputation.

In a fortunate convergence of interest between Symington, the TMG group and Michael de Mello, the opportunity arose to invest in the Caves Transmontanas business, owner of one of Portugal’s most prestigious sparkling wine brands: Vértice

Through a stock increase, Symington Family Estates became a shareholder with a 50% holding in Caves Transmontanas, which will provide the necessary financial means to expand the business.

A new management team was appointed (which included Mr. Celso Pereira) to give continuity to the independent management of the business. The partners look forward to working together with eager commitment to ensure a bright future for Caves Transmontanas and its Vértice sparkling wines.

QUINTA DO VESÚVIO

Bicentenary Celebration

September 2023

To commemorate the bicentenary of Quinta do Vesúvio (1823-2023) – one of the Douro’s legendary vineyards, owned by our family since 1989 – we organised a celebratory two-day event at the property in September 2023, hosted by members of the family and members of staff, and to which we invited many of Portugal’s leading wine journalists and wine writers.

We took the opportunity to launch the three 2021 Douro DOC wines from the property, served during a memorable dinner featuring specially curated dishes by Michelin-starred Chef Pedro Lemos.

True to tradition, everyone gathered in one of the winery’s voluminous lagares to tread the grapes well into the evening accompanied (less traditionally) by stirring Fado music.

CASA DE RODAS

Mendes & Symington Partnership

December 2022 · May 2023

In December 2022, Symington Family Estates acquired a significant vineyard estate in the prestigious Monção and Melgaço sub-region of the Vinho Verde DOC in northern Portugal. The historic property – named Casa de Rodas – includes a beautiful 16th century manor house and 27.5 hectares of prime vineyard, planted with Alvarinho. The family will produce a range of single estate wines in partnership with legendary Vinho Verde producer Anselmo Mendes as winemaker and vineyard consultant. The first wines were made from the 2023 début vintage.

During the announcement of the property’s acquisition CEO, Rupert Symington, commented: “We are happy to announce this important investment in the Monção e Melgaço sub-region of Vinho Verde. Blessed with a specific microclimate that limits vineyard yields, this area has long been famous for the quality of its Alvarinho grapes.

In fact, the white wines produced from here are amongst the finest in Portugal. We believe in forming long-term relationships with likeminded partners and we are very proud to be working with Anselmo Mendes, who has rightly earned his reputation as one of the most accomplished winemakers in Portugal and as a pioneer in the Vinho Verde region.”

Just a few months after the acquisition of Casa de Rodas, the Mendes and Symington families decided to work even closer together, creating a new company with equal shareholding, to distribute the wines produced there. The newly formed joint venture acquired the renowned Vinho Verde brand, Contacto, produced by Anselmo Mendes. This 100% Alvarinho wine has seen enormous success in Portugal and internationally, and both families believe it has great potential for further development.

Referring to the wine, Rupert Symington commented at the time: “Contacto is a great example of an excellent Vinho Verde produced entirely from the Alvarinho grape variety. It has good distribution in Portugal and other international markets. We believe that premium Vinho Verde has enormous potential in some key export markets, and we plan to use our international distribution network to help to expand the sales of a wine that we consider to be the most famous premium white wine in Portugal.”

(Left) The Casa de Rodas estate has a beautiful 16th century manor house and 27.5 hectares of prime vineyard, planted with Alvarinho. In 1920, it became the first to commercially export Alvarinho with the variety shown on the label.

(Right) The Mendes & Symington partnership acquired the renowned Vinho Verde brand, Contacto, produced by Anselmo Mendes. This 100% Alvarinho wine has seen enormous success in Portugal and internationally.

Anselmo Mendes (centre) with Rupert and Johnny Symington at Symington Family Estates headquarters in Vila Nova de Gaia, May 2023.

MATRIARCA CLUBE DE ENÓFILOS

Symington Club for Portuguese wine enthusiasts

September 2023

In the atumn of 2023 we launched ‘Matriarca’, our new wine club and community for wine enthusiasts in Portugal. Matriarca is inspired by our family’s influential matriarch, Beatriz Leitão de Carvalhosa Atkinson. Half Portuguese, half English, Beatriz married Andrew James Symington in 1891 and was a pioneering member of our family’s first generation of wine producers in Portugal – an embodiment of the history that would follow her over the ensuing generations.

Limited to just 100 people, Matriarca’s founding members will receive a selection of carefully chosen wines and ports from our family’s portfolio on a biannual basis. Members will also be given exclusive access to rare wines through a private online shop, unique wine experiences, members-only events, and one-off masterclasses.

From the summer of 2025, Matriarca will have a home in downtown Porto: ‘Matriarca’, featuring a restaurant bar, a formal restaurant, wine bar and club area.

HAMBLEDON VINEYARD

Pioneering English Sparkling Wine Producer

In November 2023, Symington Family Estates and Berry Bros & Rudd announced their joint acquisition of Hambledon Vineyard, widely considered to be one of the leading English sparkling wine producers. England’s oldest commercial vineyard, its vines (dating from 1952), are planted on the same grade of chalk as Grand Cru Côte des Blancs in Champagne. The estate is in Hampshire, close to the English Channel and enjoys a favourable microclimate, which together with the ideal soils enable it to produce very fine, world class English sparkling wine.

Chairman Johnny Symington said during the announcement: “It was going to take something very special for us to make wine in a new country, having produced port and wine in Portugal for five generations. Following lengthy analysis of the English sparkling wine category we are thrilled to be acquiring one of the leading producers in partnership with Berry Bros. & Rudd. We believe that Hambledon will play a leading role in the development of English sparkling into a world-renowned wine.”

November 2023

Hambledon is one of England’s most highly regarded sparkling wines. Since December 2024, the estate has an on-site restaurant, aptly called ‘The Restaurant at Hambledon’.

THE VINTAGE PORT DAY · LONDON

Our annual celebration of Vintage Port, promoting and raising the profile of the category

May 2024

We held our first Vintage Port Day in 2023 in Amsterdam and in 2024 we organised an equally successful event in London at the NoMad. In 2025, we will give continuity to the initiative, this time in Germany, in Frankfurt. These events have proven immensely valuable in giving greater visibility to Vintage Port. Participants are drawn by the substantive programs which include tastings of recently launched as well as very old Vintage Ports, alongside masterclasses and discussions on a variety of Vintage Port related topics.

The 2024 edition of The Vintage Port Day featured a very full and interesting programme, comprising three masterclasses on indigenous Douro grape varieties (which included a monovarietal tasting of four varieties central to Vintage Port blends); another on how quinta Vintage Ports are a maximum expression of Douro terroirs (as exemplified by a vertical tasting of Quinta do Vesúvio Capela Vintage Ports), and a third masterclass showcasing the Vintage Port DNA of Dow’s, Graham’s and Warre’s through a remarkable tasting of exceptional Vintage Ports across six decades: 1963, 1985 and 2003.

The programme ended with a very productive and insightful panel discussion on presenting Vintage Port in the on-trade, which attracted some high-profile figures from the UK wine trade.

The second edition of the Symington Vintage Port Day was held at the NoMad in London, May 2024. One of the highlights (above) was a masterclass showcasing the Vintage Port DNA of Dow’s, Graham’s and Warre’s, where 1963, 1985 and 2003 Vintage Ports from the three houses were tasted.

DOURO SOMM CAMP

July 2024

The third consecutive edition of ‘Douro Somm Camp’ was held over an intense four-day period in early July 2024. This educational bootcamp, open to sommeliers from around the world is a deeply immersive experience, which past participants have told us will long live in their memories. We believe this unique initiative creates passionate, life-long ambassadors for port, whose influence reaches across the world.

This event has been a considerable success and has become a highlight of the annual Sommellerie calendar. We invite the best of the best from all over the world to visit the Douro to learn about all things port through an intensive and diverse educational experience.

The busy four-day programme of the 2024 edition took the 18 participants to Quinta dos Malvedos, Quinta do Vesúvio, Quinta do Bomfim, the Graham’s 1890 Lodge and the Factory House. They took part in several masterclasses and tastings ranging from Vintage Port, Climate Change and Viticulture, Sustainability, Aged Tawnies, etc. The group interacted with staff drawn from across various areas of the company, including winemakers, viticulturists, and people from the sales and communications teams. Participants were able to dive deep into the world of port.

Conviviality is also an important part of the programme and in this latest edition included fabulous lunches at the Bomfim 1896 and Vinum restaurants, and a very special dinner at the historic Factory House in Porto.

(Above) The 18 participating sommeliers from all around the world gathered in front of the old winery at Quinta dos Malvedos together with three of our hosts, Alexandre Mariz, Nicole Santos and Gustavo Devesas.

(Right) On day two of the intensive four-day program, the sommeliers visited the two-century old Vesúvio winery with its impressive granite treading lagares.

REBEL PORT CLUB

Pop-up bar in downtown Porto

July 2024

For the second year running we opened the doors of our pop-up bar in downtown Porto – ‘Rebel Port Club’, an initiative run in partnership with the LOT (Labels of Tomorrow) concept store and Eleven Lab. The bar operated over the summer and autumn of 2024, and its concept is to challenge consumers’ perception of port, showing its versatility in mixology with an imaginative variety of port-based cocktails drawn from Graham’s Blend Series and Cockburn’s Tails of The Unexpected port ranges.

We describe it as: ‘A pop-up club that challenges you to #DrinkPortDifferently’. Entertaining, irreverent parallel events are regularly organised to attract people from all walks of life to the bar.

The underlying premise of Rebel Port Club is to engage new consumers with a contemporary port proposition in an authentic way. Its aim is to speak to a new generation who might not necessarily see port as a drink for them. It also aims to be a mobile social club, hosting relaxed gatherings, shaped around food, drink and music, aligned with the Porto social vibe with port as the key ingredient.

The underlying premise of Rebel Port Club is to engage new consumers with a contemporary port proposition in an authentic way. Its aim is to speak to a new generation who might not necessarily see port as a drink for them.

Rebel Port Club also hosts relaxed gatherings, shaped around food, drink and music, aligned with the Porto social vibe with port as the key ingredient.

COCKBURN’S ‘A LA MESA’ A feast of gastronomic delights in the Cockburn’s lodge in Gaia

For the fourth year running we joined forces with Argentine chef, Mauricio Ghiglione of the Belos Aires Porto restaurant to offer a unique gastronomic experience in the Cockburn’s Lodge – the ‘A La Mesa’ Cockburn’s. This edition was inspired by the flavours of São Martinho, a popular Portuguese festival celebrated during November evoking the figure of Saint Martin and which traditionally has a strong gastronomic connection.

Over the last four editions, held consecutively since 2021, Chef Mauricio Ghiglione invites other chefs (usually young, up and coming chefs) to create with him varied and creative dishes which sometimes revolve around a particular theme or themes.

The meals are served on a long table, seating between 50 and 60 people, laid out along one of the main aisles of the Cockburn’s lodge, lined on either side with thousands of port pipes (barrels) stacked four high and wooden vats. We hope to repeat the event in 2025.

The fantastic ‘A La Mesa’ Cockburn’s, a unique gastronomic experience in the Cockburn’s Lodge.

(Below) The meals are served on a long table, seating between 50 and 60 people, laid out along one of the main aisles of the historic Cockburn’s lodge, lined on either side with thousands of port pipes.

November 2024

SYMINGTON ENERGY COMMUNITY

December 2024

In December 2024, we finalised the agreement on the formation of the Symington Energy Community with partner company, Greenvolt, a Portuguese based leading European renewables company delivering 100% green power through multiple technologies. A small ceremony was held at the Graham’s Lodge where Symington CEO, Rupert Symington and Greenvolt CEO, João Manso Neto, formally announced this renewable energy management platform, by which the surplus solar-generated energy at two Symington sites in Gaia (Quinta do Marco and Quinta de Santo António) will henceforward be shared with three other company sites located in the historic quarter of the city, namely the Graham’s Lodge, Symington Family Estates head office and the Cockburn’s Lodge.

This means that rather than selling surplus-to-requirement power produced by the solar panels in the afore-mentioned company sites to the national electricity grid, this will now be made available instead to the other three Symington locations. This will represent a major saving in the company’s electricity bill and also means that more company installations will use a higher proportion of clean, renewable energy, thus contributing further to the reduction of our carbon footprint. A win-win all round.

Rupert Symington, stated during the informal ceremony, ‘ The energy transition is central to our mission and explains why we have invested in the production of green energy to meet our own energy requirements, both in Vila Nova de Gaia and in the Douro. This partnership enables us to optimise our own already installed capacity by sharing power between the several sites where we operate in Vila Nova de Gaia.’

(Above) Rupert Symington and Greenvolt CEO (pictured centre), João Manso Neto, celebrate the formation of the Symington Energy Community during an informal ceremony at the Graham’s Port Lodge, December 2024.

(Right) Manuel

(Left, top) Manuel Rocha’s grandfather and great uncle, twins Manuel and Joaquim Rocha in the Dow’s Lodge, mid-1950s.

(Left, lower) Manuel’s great grandfather, Joaquim da Rocha Júnior, joined the company in 1904 and is seen here (left, without the hat) supervising the loading of port barrels for shipment, late 1920s.

Manuel Rocha

One of our longest-serving colleagues, Manuel Rocha, retired at the end of 2024 after 45 years of dedicated and valuable service to the company. Manuel was the third generation of his family to work with the Symington family and their careers overlapped with all five generations of Symingtons who have worked and work in the company.

Manuel joined in January 1979, following in the footsteps of his grandfather and great uncle (twins Manuel and Joaquim Rocha, who both joined – on the same day – in 1928), and great grandfather, Joaquim da Rocha Júnior, who joined in 1904. His grandfather, Manuel, was also a taster and blender and rose to become senior taster working alongside 2nd and 3rd generation Symington winemakers. His career in the company spanned 52 years and he still worked with his grandson for two years before retiring.

Alongside Peter Symington (3rd generation), Manuel learned his trade in the Tasting Room, developing phenomenal tasting skills and learning to blend our ports in accordance with each house’s distinctive style.

Manuel has been integral to many of our most remarkable ports over the last four and a half decades, and when Peter retired in 2009, Manuel continued his work in the tasting room alongside Peter’s son and current Head Winemaker, Charles.

Manuel’s work has been truly invaluable and we would like to thank him for his dedication and wish him a very happy and healthy retirement.

Rocha in his element in the tasting room, 2019.

Manuela Caldeira

Manuela Caldeira joined the company in March 1985, hired to take care of the computer hardware which had been recently installed and represented an area of technology still in its infancy. Manuela recalls everything was very basic back then and there was only one desktop PC for the whole company and there were only two people in IT (Information Technology).

A pressing need arose to digitally process and record data at harvest time and as there was no network linking Gaia and the Douro, an autonomous system had to be set up at Bomfim. 15 PCs were acquired with the mind-boggling capacity of 640K of RAM and a hard disk of 20MB!

The pace of development picked up between 1996 and 1999 when the first connected network was created linking the 56 PCs at head office with the 22 in the Marco bottling plant. The Gaia and Douro networks also became linked up and e-mail was generally introduced. From then on things began to advance very speedily to keep pace with the rapid expansion of the business which demanded increasingly more hardware and software capacity to leverage efficient management.

A huge leap forward was the introduction of the SAP platform, decided in 2010 and which brought considerable challenges to the IT team, by then 9 strong. They had to adapt to a new system, a new programming language which required the team to give their best and they came through with flying colours.

One of the team’s most accute challenges was the covid-19 pandemic which required the setting up of a system to allow staff to work remotely with the lowest possible impact on the company’s ability to continue to operate. Manuela and the team she so ably led all these years can be deservedly proud of the significant strides they achieved and for surmounting the often enormous challenges they were confronted with.

We wish Manuela a happy, healthy and fulfilling retirement and thank her for the very considerable contribution she made to our company’s growth and development.

Fátima Rebelo

Of the recent group of retirees, Fátima Rebelo was the longest serving colleague with a career spanning 47 years in the company. It says a lot for the individual and the business when someone dedicates practically half a century of their life to a single company. Fátima was admired and held in high regard by all, not least for her positive, cheery attitude. Her engaging

(Top) Manuela Caldeira enjoys lunch with colleagues at a Senior Managers’ meeting at the Ataíde Winery – Spring 2023.

(Above) Manuela with her team at the company’s head office in 2018.

(Right) Fátima Rebelo at the Quinta do Marco bottling plant, Spring 2018.

smile was pretty much a constant, and her boundless energy and commitment were admirable.

When Fátima joined Symington Family Estates in 1977, aged 17, she wasn’t to know what a long fulfilling career she would enjoy here. Fátima shared some funny stories of when she began working, getting off to what she described as a jittery start, and which might have made her career at Symington all too brief!

Fátima was admitted as a bottling hand to reinforce the team working in the bottling section on the Vintage (1975) campaign, where she did a bit of everything but mainly involving a fair amount of manual work. At the time, the bottling operation was labour intensive and inevitably quite physically demanding.

One day, she had been hauling heavy sackfulls of corks to the bottling line at a brisk pace to avoid stoppages. By morning’s end she was exhausted and when leaving the dry goods storage area with yet another sackful she noticed a tall man (with a good physique to give her a hand – she surmised) and asked him if he was on his way to the bottling line. When he said yes, she asked him if he would please help carry her load and he replied he’d be more than happy to. Fátima immediately noticed her supervisor fixing her gaze on her with a very dissaproving expression on her face. She queried me – ‘Do you know who that man is?’. To which I answered, ‘No, but he’s very nice - isn’t he?’ ‘Well, young lady, that nice man is your boss (he was one of the senior members of the Symington family) –what have you got to say for yourself?! You’d better start looking for another job soon!’ As it turned out, she was exaggerating and I went on working for the company for a long, long time!

On another occasion, I was helping to load a truck with heavy wooden cases of wine and noticed two men standing close by and looking at the many cases still to be loaded. One of them quipped, ‘looks like this will take quite some time’. I retorted without thinking, ‘It would go a whole lot quicker if you gave us a helping hand.’ To my surprie he roled up his sleeves and helped us until the truck was fully loaded. Next thing I know, my supervisor walked in our direction and greeted the man deferentially, asking how he was today. He replied, ‘A little fatigued after loading this truck, and if I’m tired, imagine how these young ladies are!’ Without thinking, I blurted out, ‘Tired are you, poor thing – you’re probably not used to working!’ The supervisor pinched the small of my back quite forcibly and said, ‘You again, you’re incorrigible – that man is the newly-appointed bottling operations diretor and your next boss!’

Fátima went on to work as one of this diretor’s close assistants for many years and then with two of his sucessors for many more happy and rewarding years, as they entrusted her with roles with increasing levels of responsibility, such was the trust they had in her undoubted capabilities.

NEW RELEASES

PEQUENO DILEMA

October 2022

With Pequeno Dilema, our family sought to provide an answer to a long-standing question, a small dilemma (‘pequeno dilema’) of sorts: could a wine region famous for producing incredible ports and dry red wines also make exceptional white wines? Pequeno Dilema provided ample proof that the answer is an unequivocal yes.

The component wines for Pequeno Dilema (made with Viosinho, Gouveio, Arinto and Alvarinho) are sourced from two of the family’s highest-lying vineyards: Tapadinha, at an altitude of 580 metres in the Rio Torto Valley and Chões, high above the Pinhão Valley at 520 metres. The cooler conditions underwrite the wine’s signature freshness, balance and elegance. Only 5,000 bottles of the début 2020 edition were released.

Brand management: Patrícia Vale Lourenço

Design concept and design: Carla Oliveira

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

ILUSTRES DESCONHECIDOS

February 2023

Ilustres Desconhecidos (‘illustrious unknowns’) are a collection of limited run, unique white Douro wines (unique not least in the sense that some may never be produced again). They are singular and expressive white wines sourced from specific plots in some of our lesser known Douro vineyards.

The début wines were the Viosinho and Gouveio from the 2020 harvest, followed by the Códega do Larinho and Rabigato from 2022. Each wine expresses the nuances of the variety when grown at altitude, namely the Tapadinha vineyard (at 580 metres) where we have been researching the Douro’s white varieties. Tapadinha provided the ideal launchpad for this collection of wines that are revealing some of the hitherto unkown stories of our terroir.

Brand management: Patrícia Vale Lourenço

Design concept / Design: Rita Rivotti / Carla Oliveira

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

QUINTA DA FONTE SOUTO ALICANTE BOUSCHET

April 2023

This was the second release of our Quinta da Fonte Souto Varietal Series, which seeks to highlight wines from a particularly successful grape variety of a given vintage at the property.

The 2018 Alicante Bouschet followed in the footsteps of the 2019 Alfrocheiro. The rationale behind releasing the latter earlier than the Alicante Bouschet had to do with a release schedule in line with the specificities of each variety. The Alicante Bouschet, due to its outstanding structure and longevity, was deemed to have a later release window.

The grapes were sourced from three mature vineyards (25 years+) planted at just over 500 metres, and the wine embodies all the strengths of the property’s unique terroir, which expresses the freshness afforded by the altitude and the complexity and structure provided by mature, low-yielding vines.

Brand management: André Almeida

Design concept and design: Carla Oliveira

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

BOM MALANDRO

A wine laced with humour and fun storytelling to engage with consumers

September 2023

We created Bom Malandro in reverse. Instead of the usual wine cues – grape varieties, estates, terroirs –, we adopted a fresh approach more in tune with the pace of modern life where consumers yearn for moments of conviviality, spontaneity and relaxation.

Bom Malandro, with its informality and harmless mischief, is about slowing down and enjoying the moment. After all, in the whirlwind of modern life it’s easy to forget that the best things often happen when we take time to stand still, to catch up with friends and put the world to rights over an enjoyable glass of wine.

Bom Malandro red and white wines are traditional Douro blends produced from native grape varieties grown in vineyards located at altitude in the Cima Corgo region to give the wines a distinctive freshness, balance, and fruit-forward profile. Down to earth wines with plenty of attitude.

Brand management: Patrícia Vale Lourenço

Design concept and design: Wonder why

Illustration: Luis Mendo

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

TAIFA

Quinta da Fonte Souto’s exceptional white

October 2023

Taking its name from the small principalities and kingdoms created in the Iberian Peninsula during the Moorish period, Taifa is crafted with exceptional precision and expresses the extraordinary terroir of Quinta da Fonte Souto. The label reflects the exquisite geometric decorative patterns that are part of the Moorish legacy in the Alentejo.

Taifa is made using the finest white grapes from a handful of mature plots at Fonte Souto with low-yielding vines, and are harvested early to preserve optimal acidity and hand-picked at differing stages of ripeness to enhance the wine’s complexity and balance.

Meticulous attention to detail continues in the winery, with pre-fermentation maceration maximising the aromas, and vinification in 500-litre French oak barrels providing structure. Careful bâtonnage through the winter and spring helps to give the wine a fantastic creaminess. It is this level of precision that underpins Taifa’s freshness, elegance, sophistication and longevity.

Brand management: André Almeida

Design concept and design: Bisarro Studio

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

2022 QUINTA VINTAGE PORT

April 2024

Such was the quality from the Douro Superior sub-region in 2022 that the family released, en primeur, small quantities of 2022 Vintage Port from Quinta do Vesúvio and Dow’s Quinta da Senhora da Ribeira – two outstanding estates on opposite sides of the River Douro.

The 2022 growth cycle was one of the most challenging in the Douro, with one of the hottest and driest summers ever recorded. While the grape bunches and the berries themselves were smaller than usual, Charles Symington was astonished by how well the

vines performed under such unprecedented conditions. The resilient indigenous Douro vines delivered concentrated wines with lifted aromas and remarkable purity of fruit.

The release of the 2022 Quinta do Vesúvio Vintage Port and Capela do Vesúvio Vintage Port was cause for celebration, following the temporary closure of the estate’s foot-treading winery in 2020 and 2021 due to Covid-19 restrictions. To mark the return of Vesúvio Vintage Port, the 2022 label features a stunning illustration of the magnificent estate house and surrounding vineyards.

GRAHAM’S 50-YEAR-OLD TAWNY

During the spring of 2024, we unveiled the remarkable Graham’s 50-Year-Old Tawny Port, an exquisitely crafted blend from the hands of two generations of Symington winemakers and master blenders, Peter and Charles Symington – father and son.

Some of the constituent wines were among the very first produced by the Symington family after acquiring Graham’s in 1970. Charles selected two main components for the 50-Year-Old blend: The first is a wine from 1969 – his birth year – known as ‘CAS Reserve’, which was originally set aside by his father, Peter, who gave it his son’s initials. The second lot is comprised of wines from 1970 and 1973, which were blended in 1982. Since being set aside for long-term ageing, these wines have lost over 50% of their initial volume to evaporation, resulting in layers of concentration and extraordinary complexity.

The illustrations used in the gifting box’s interior were designed by Portuguese illustrator, Mariana Rodrigues. Reflecting some of the rarer flora and fauna found in the Douro Valley, they are evocative of wallpaper and panelling, conveying a familiar sense of home.

Brand management: Victoria Symington

Design concept and design: Alexandra Ribeiro

Illustration: Mariana Rodrigues

Lettering: Xesta Studio

Suppliers: Vox Artes Gráficas / Camarc

2003 LIBRARY RELEASE VINTAGE PORTS

With the 2003 Dow’s, Graham’s and Warre’s, we introduced a new approach to how we re-release the limited quantities of Vintage Ports that we hold back for long-term ageing. Releases of Vintage Ports between 20 to 30 years of age will henceforward be termed ‘Library Releases’ to indicate that the bottles have matured in the perfect conditions of our family’s Vintage Port cellars, in other words from our own ‘libraries’ of ageing wines.

The labels of these Library Releases distinguish them from the initial en primeur release, conveying key messages about the wine: the

number of years it was aged in bottle in the family’s cellars; the year of bottling and the re-release year. There is also an indication that this is the second time the Vintage Port is being formally released, following the initial launch, two to three decades before.

As part of our family’s meticulous approach to ageing Vintage Port, these Library Releases have been carefully recorked to guarantee quality, and the labels display the year in which the recorking took place.

Brand management: Harry Symington

Design concept and design: Denomination Suppliers: Vox Artes Gráficas / Aéme

CASA DE RODAS

December

2024

The Casa de Rodas Alvarinho 2023, is our family’s first Vinho Verde made in partnership with Anselmo Mendes from the debut vintage at the property.

Building on a century of winemaking heritage at the historic estate, Casa de Rodas Alvarinho 2023 embodies the distinctive qualities of the Monção & Melgaço terroir and the unique character of the iconic Alvarinho variety.

Our inaugural Vinho Verde is beautifully floral with delicate traces of tropical fruit and an attractive mineral component. On the palate, it shows balance and structure, vibrant acidity, and a long, complex finish.

Brand management: Patrícia Vale Lourenço

Design concept and design: Carla Oliveira

Supplier: Vox Artes Gráficas

COCKBURN’S RANGE RELAUNCH

September 2024

In the autumn of 2024, we revealed a striking, redesigned range for Cockburn’s – a landmark moment for the UK’s leading port house.

With careful reference to the brand’s 200-year-old heritage, the innovative designs marks a new, exciting chapter for Cockburn’s, giving continuity to the house’s reputation for defying convention and challenging the norm.

Cockburn’s premium range – including the 2014 Quinta dos Canais Vintage Port, Late Bottled Vintage, and 10 and 20-YearOld Tawny Ports – showcases a vivid new look featuring illustrations by artist, Song Kang, that depict playful vignettes from the brand’s 200-year-old history.

Featuring Special Reserve, the world’s best-selling Reserve Ruby Port, each of the core range wines have also received a fresh look including lighter bottles, saving 256 tonnes of CO₂ emissions annually.

We believe this fresh approach with an emphasis on visual storytelling will inspire people to see port in an entirely new light, while also speaking to those already loyal to the Cockburn’s name.

Brand management: Andrew May Design concept and design: Stranger & Stranger Suppliers: Vox Artes Gráficas / Novotipo

QUINTA DO VESÚVIO

200th Anniversary Collector’s

Edition

November 2024

To mark the bicentenary of Quinta do Vesúvio, one of the Douro’s legendary vineyards, we commissioned a special collector’s edition limited to just 200 bespoke small wooden chests, containing two bottles each of Quinta do Vesúvio’s Vintage Port and Douro DOC wines, featuring special labels evoking the storied heritage of this magnificent property.

This exclusive collector’s item also featured two booklets; one describing the property, its history, terroir and some interesting curiosities and the other profiling both the quinta’s Vintage Ports and dry red wines, including detailed information of the four bottles which the collection comprises. Complementing the two books, a small folder contains a selection of reproductions of old illustrations, vineyard maps and lithographs.

Brand management: André Almeida

Design concept and design: Alexandra Ribeiro / Carla Oliveira

Suppliers: Vox Artes Gráficas / Aéme / Forward Consulting / Greca Artes Gráficas

RECOGNITION AWARDS AND REVIEWS

Wines of Portugal Competition · May 2024

GRAHAM’S 1974 SINGLE

HARVEST TAWNY PORT

Voted by the panel of judges - Best Fortified Wine in show.

TAIFA (QUINTA

DA FONTE SOUTO) 2020

Público (Fugas) – José Augusto Moreira 95/100 (November 11, 2023).

‘A wine of enormous — and justified — ambition.’

QUINTA DO VESÚVIO

2020 DOURO DOC

Wine Spectator · 94 points (November 15, 2023).

‘A bright red, with a dark, lush well of flavors, including blackberry, creamed cherry, brambly herbs and violet, vanilla, toast and smoke. Ripples across the palate, layered with fine, chalky tannins and lively acidity.’

Público (Fugas) – José Augusto Moreira 95/100 (February 11, 2023).

‘A safe haven, validated by the passage of time.’

CHRYSEIA 2020 DOURO DOC

Grandes Escolhas: 19/20 (November 2024)

‘Impeccable integration, exquisite polish and beautifully fine-tuned. Great finesse.’

CHRYSEIA 2021 DOURO DOC

Wine Spectator · 97 points (November 20, 2024)

‘A suave, sophisticated red, offering complexity and length in a finely meshed frame with a core of ripe black plum and mulberry fruit flavors.’

CHRYSEIA 2022 DOURO DOC

Público (Fugas) – José Augusto Moreira 95/100 (October 14, 2024).

‘An icon of the new generation of Douro wines, this is the 21st release and Chryseia is already one of the region’s classics.’

GRAHAM’S 2021 THE STONE TERRACES VINTAGE PORT

Best of Year · Excellence Award

Prémio de Excelência – ‘Os Melhores do Ano’ Revista de Vinhos, February 2024

QUINTA DA FONTE SOUTO 2019

Wine Spectator · 91 points (November 15, 2023).

‘An elegant, focused red, with fine, trim tannins structuring the pure range of damson plum reduction and black raspberry coulis flavors.’

GRAHAM’S 50-YEAR-OLD PORT

The World of Fine Wine – Richard Mayson 100 points (September 2024).

‘Spellbindingly uplifting... its overall delicacy, finesse, and perfect poise on the finish really resonate. There can be only one mark for a wine with this provenance and calibre.’

Wine Spectator - James Molesworth 98 points (November 2024).

‘There’s a warm, comforting feel to the massive core of date, wood spice, alder, hazelnut and green fig notes, carried by taut but deeply buried acidity. As the finish stretches out, this just keeps offering more and more, with toffee, bitter orange, mulled persimmon, caramelized frangipane and date bread aspects emerging. Shows jaw-dropping range, power and definition, with a viscosity that flirts with an Essencia-like feel.’

JancisRobinson.com – Julia Harding MW 19/20 (November 2024).

‘Spicy, even a touch of mocha. Outstanding concentraion without being tiring. There’s a surprise at the end when a bitter-orange note appears on the finish. Complex and evolving in the glass.’

WARRE’S 2020 VINHAS VELHAS VINTAGE PORT

Decanter – Richard Mayson

100 points (October 2023).

‘A field blend from deep-rooted, horse-ploughed, 80 to 100-year-old vines at two of Warre’s leading quintas, Cavadinha and Retiro. Deep and opaque with glorious minty-ripe aromas, this already sings from the glass. Concentrated and multi-layered berry fruit backed by super fine-grained tannins, finishes with a flourish – a ‘wow’ of a wine.’

Wine Spectator - James Molesworth

96 points (February 2024).

‘This is well-built and leans to the drier side, with a serious core of dark currant, fig and blackberry fruit held in check for now by a wall of brambly structure. Offers lots of spice, well-seasoned fruitcake and licorice root notes that fill in through the finish. Rock-solid.’

DOW’S 40-YEAR-OLD TAWNY

Wine Spectator - James Molesworth

96 points (December 2024)

‘Plump, juicy and forthright in feel, with a core that bursts with mulled dark cherry, dried peach and persimmon, bitter orange and date bread notes. Singed hazelnut and alder add underlying tension to the finish, which sports serious length and drive.’

COCKBURN’S 20-YEAR-OLD TAWNY

Wine Spectator - James Molesworth

94 points (November 2024)

‘Singed hazelnut, candied pecan and argan oil notes lead the way, with singed alder, dried persimmon and toasted sesame accents filling in throughout. Gorgeous.’

DOW’S 2018 LATE BOTTLED VINTAGE PORT

Wine Spectator – TOP 100 Wines of The Year 2024 (#26)

‘Sleek and fresh, with dark plum and blackberry notes laced with singed alder and ganache. Shows nice drive through the polished finish as the fruit expands. Drink now through 2031.’

QUINTA DO VESÚVIO CAPELA 2022 VINTAGE PORT

Wine Spectator - James Molesworth

96 points (November 2024)

‘Reserved in style, with a core of dark cherry, plum and boysenberry reduction notes laced with licorice root and ganache. Seriously long, this shows swirls of violet and açaí berry in the background, with a level of detail that sets it apart from the pack in this vintage.’

THE WORLD’S MOST ADMIRED

WINE

BR ANDS 2023

SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES

The World’s Most Admired Wine Brands - 2023

This award was attributed for the fourth year running by Drinks International, which annually selects the 50 most admired wine brands from around the world. Symington climbed an impressive 28 places in the ranking, coming in at #13.

SYMINGTON FAMILY ESTATES

Drinks Business Green Awards 2024 – ‘Green Company of The Year’ for Adega do Ataíde Impressing the judges sufficiently for them to declare Symington Family Estates Green (wine) Company of the Year for 2024 was the Adega do Ataíde winery, which they stated, “... epitomises the company’s strong ethical and environmental ethos.” The LEED certification (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) was described by the judges as a “huge achievement” with just a handful of wineries in the world reaching ‘Gold’ level accreditation. One of the judges commented, “This is the type of project other wineries should look to.”

QUINTA DO BOMFIM

World’s Best Vineyards 2024

Repeating the accolade received in 2019 and 2021, Quinta do Bomfim was awarded by the World’s ‘Best Vineyards Academy’ which distinguishes each year the world’s 50 top vineyards to visit.

1882 FOR THE NEXT GENERATION

Edition 3 · 2024

FRESH HORIZONS

PUBLISHER

Symington Family Estates www.symington.com

Symington Family Estates, Vinhos, Lda.

Travessa Barão de Forrester, 86 4400-034 Vila Nova de Gaia

Portugal

T. + 351 223 776 300

E. symington@symington.com Insta. @SymingtonFamilyEstates

EDITORIAL

Editors

Harry Symington / Miguel Potes

Content

Harry Symington / Miguel Potes

DESIGN

Art Direction,

Graphic Design and Layout

Alexandra Sousa Ribeiro / Carla Oliveira

GSA Design

Lettering (Cover)

Xesta Studio

PRINTING

Pre-Press Consulting

Forward Consulting

Printer Greca Artes Gráficas

Print Run

750 - English

750 - Portuguese

Depósito Legal 476162/20

N.º de registo ERC 127860

Paper Stock

Symbol Tatami White by Fedrigoni

Completely bio-degradable and recyclable

CONTRIBUTORS

Writers

Photography

Adriano Ferreira Borges, António Luís Campos, Cláudio Capone, Filipe Braga, Francisco Soares, J.E. Fells archive, João Margalha, Harry Symington, Madeira Wine Company archive, Manuel Teixeira, Miguel Potes, Pedro Nogueira, Sam Legg, Symington family archive, Symington Family Estates archive (Emílio Biel).

Revista de Vinhos

Photograph on page 32 (top), reproduced by kind permission of Revista de Vinhos.

Cover photograph

4th and 5th generation Symingtons photographed on the terrace at Quinta dos Malvedos, Spring 2024.

Back cover photograph

The elegant façade of the house at Quinta do Tua, close to where the river of the same name flows into the Douro.

December 2024 © Symington Family Estates

In February 2021, we replanted 700 chestnut trees on 6 hectares of land at our Quinta da Fonte Souto in the Alentejo. This initiative will offset the environmental impact of this magazine, both in terms of the paper and carbon emissions – and, in fact, along with other reforestation initiatives, will act as a positive mitigation against our overall carbon footprint as a company.

A Kingfisher perched on the banks of the Vilariça River, close to Quinta do Ataíde.

(Photograph by António Luís Campos)