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Y O U R EDITORIAL
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It's already a habit, that after BERLIN FASHION WEEK we come out with a SUPERIOR MAGAZINE BFW Special. This time it’s part of our February issue. In the BFW Special you find on about 50 pages many show reports, interviews and of course lots of photos from MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN, DER BERLINER MODE SALON and the trade fairs GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN. Many thanks to the hard working SUPERIOR MAGAZINE team of ALEXANDRA, JUDITH, FRANZISKA, JULIAN, LIA, NERYS, SARAH and VICTORIA who made our Online show reporting and the Digital Special possible. Of course we also show you some exclusive fashion editorials by HIROKI NAGAHIRO, MARC HUTH, SIMONE BECCHETTI, TAMARA HANSEN and our editorial voting winner MALTE GRÜNER. Enjoy our SUPERIOR MAGAZINE February 2016 issue … Best, Tom, Marc and the whole SUPERIOR MAGAZINE team
FASHION & STYLE
PORTRAIT: SEBASTIAN ELLRICH
22 BERLIN FASHION WEEK A/W 16
32 Tamara Hansen
»BLVCK ON BLVCK«
108 PORTRAIT: LOVIA
»FUNERAL FOR FASHION«
142 Malte Grüner
ART & CULTURE
Tonight We Fly
Sebastian Ellrich came back from stage design with a cleverly thought presentation, to offer an exclusive showing of his new Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
text | Nerys dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Esclercs photos | ÂŠ Julian Martini
In an old building with big stairs, high ceilings and wooden floors, Sebastian split his collection in two rooms: one for menswear, the other one for womenswear. A male model and two women wore the designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s outfits, one after the other, and displayed them in all angles for a few minutes each. In a way, the act of getting dressed became part of the presentation, when it invited us in the behind-the-scenes of a fashion show. A real theatre-like scenery for the designer who solely frequented this environment for two years. The collection leading to the ultimate piece was composed of skillfully made tailoring and elegant matching outfits and accessories. Black, silver and grey supported a declination of pastel pink, with touches of sparkle or silver to catch the eye. Silk and leather, which also attracted the light, were put in contrast to matt fabrics and fur. These oppositions in the outfits brought an ounce of extravagance to a classic collection, with the example of a pink satin shirt in a full three-piece grey suit, and its tartan details on the shoes and pockets. It could also be noticed with a classic black sweater being turned into a possible night outfit thanks to the addition of a shiny metallic fabric â&#x20AC;&#x201C; or a way to make an entrance in the spotlight.
Sebastian’s womenswear presented a selection of dresses, skirts, suits and outerwear, all professionally classic, and ornamented with zips or sequins. The perfect way to spice up a work outfit: the designer doesn’t want his women to be boring. One of the collection’s highlights was a floor-length kimono-dress, in pink satin that attracted the yellow light. Although its wide fitting characteristic, the belt around the model’s waist and cleavage provoked the look to be quite sexy and feminine. The women’s wear collection was hence gracefully completed with accurate accessories: pink furry gloves and scarves spiced up all-black outfits. When, finally, the wings – The Wings! – were put on the male model, everyone agglutinated in the small room and smiled in admiration. The moment we had all been waiting for. When the silver straps on a black t-shirt became more than an outfit, and the model turned itself into a butterfly. Sebastian Ellrich offered us a real show, worthy of his experience of the stage. He knows how to please an audience, which was us on that Friday before Berlin Fashion Week.
left: coat Max Mara drees J. JS LEE shoes Damarki London right: coat J. JS LEE turtleneck Blue Vanilla skirt Max Mara s Damarki London
Two s d r i Th
photography by Hiroki Nagahiro
photography assistant ASUKA KAWAI styling by WENDY QUINTANA styling assistant CHIARA PUGLIESE hair by NATSUMI EBIKO make up by NATASHA LAKIC models DAISY BOOTE & MASHA RADKOVSKA @ PRM AGENCY -23-
jacket Ginger & Smart shirt Chinti and Parker
jacket Richards Radcliffe London top The Fold
coat New World Fashion Group London pants J. JS LEE top Gerard Darel
coat Tara Jarmon sweater & skirt Blue Vanilla
cape Cocoon sweater Chinti & Parker
coat Andrew Majtenyi pants Gerard Darel shirt Rose & Willard
coat & sweater Fenn Wright Manson dress Ginger & Smart shoes United Nude
coat, sweater & skirt Max Mara shoes Jimmy Choo
coat Tara Jarmon pants Obey N.89 top Blue Vanilla shoes Damarki London
coat Tara Jarmon sweater Chinti and Parker shirt Belle Ă&#x2030;poque shoes United Nude
coat Ginger & Smart sweater Fenn Wright Manson skirt Max Mara shoes United Nude
Berlin Fashion Week A/W 16 -32-
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN RIANI BRACHMANN MARIANA JUNGMANN MBFWB REPORTS
Der Berliner Mode Salon GREENSHOWROOM & ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN A DAY FULL OF SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL FASHION PANEL DISCUSSION KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL SOMYSO FRANKFURT STYLE AWARD FINALLY THE SHOWS
BEHIND THE SCENES
Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin -34-
RIANI BRACHMANN MARIANA JUNGMANN MBFWB REPORTS
RIANI After a phenomenal show at MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN with standing ovations and an exhilarated audience, RIANI designer Ulrich Schulte and CEO Martina Buckenmaier told us a little more about the collection and the idea behind it, as well as the special give away he and his team had prepared for their guests.
interview | SARAH WEYERS photos | ÂŠ Mercedes-Benz Fashion
# How was the name for the autumn/winter 2016 collection born? US: Well, actually, there are two names. One is “Silk Road Souvenirs” and the other is “RIANI loves you!” The first one describes the collection really well and focuses on the colours we used, the shapes and the individual pieces. It’s about the connection of people! “RIANI loves you!” is a statement we want to make – not only with this collection, but as a motif we have for every piece we create. We also used it as the title of the casting, because we want to celebrate the diversity of women.
# So celebrating was one of the motifs? US: Celebrating always is! (laughs) MB: We celebrate the women of this world! A size 0 up until a size 18 or bigger. Every skin tone, every special thing about them, we love piercings, tattoos, all these little things!
# Which is a brave thing to do in a fashion show… MB: But you have to be brave sometimes! We also have 4 plus size models, which we love. We are showing a look in a size 2 and in a size 14 and both look amazing.
# Has this variety always played such an important role for RIANI? US In our last collections we also did it. We don’t only imagine women with a model’s body, but also the women who will buy our clothes; grown up, adult women that have feminine figures, curves – and we try to see them in our clothes. -37-
# So fashion for women that are really made for women… US: Like in real life! MB: We always try the entire collection on a size 10 and on a size 16 – we tested everything so the consumers can rely on it. US: But we also really enjoy showing the collection during Berlin Fashion Week and put it in a different light again, it’s a lot of fun!
# Speaking of the collection, we heard about your project for the give away – how did the idea grow to integrate it into the fashion show? MB: In our hometown Schorndorf, RIANI supports the project “Zauberfaden”, for which many refugees came together under the supervision of voluntary workers from the city. They collected sewing machines and more and we supported them with know how, with fabrics and financially and for this special show they created 1000 unique bags that we give away here. This is how we want to integrate the people into society: refugees can work there, learn German and have something to do!
# Is this the first social project that RIANI supports as intensely? MB: We have had many projects before!
# Lastly, we would like to find out a little more about the collection: what are the materials, cuts, forms? US: The “Silk Road” memories are about the colours, the nature… Green and red… but it’s also about the traditional clothes in Asian regions put into fashion in order to make it wearable.
View show report on our website:
BRACHMANN Sarah from SUPERIOR MAGAZINE had the chance to speak to the designer Jennifer Brachmann after her successful runway show during MERCEDESBENZ FASHION WEEK BERLIN. Showing the BRACHMANN Autumn/Winter 2016 collection to the crowded Stage@Me Collector’s Room, the designer had the audience on the edge, awaiting the opening of the show in complete darkness, underlined by loud music. The entire collection was as classy as it was modern and offered a wide range of menswear looks, enabling men to wear high-end fashion to the office – and to many other places.
interview | SARAH WEYERS photos | © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
# Is there a certain name for the collection? Not a specific one for the line, but I can tell you exactly what my inspiration for the collection was. The photography by Franziska Stünkel, which is so experimental and captures different dimensions of reality in complex reflections, showing uniqueness, surprise and still providing a certain level of depth.
# That already answers our question about your inspiration! Have photography and architecture always played such an important role in your designs? Since I studied architecture before I graduated in fashion design, it has always been part of my collections. I learned to love certain kinds of cuts, lines, dimensions and layers. Architecture is important for every collection. It just influences the way I develop ideas and designs. When it comes to photography, it is a little bit different. Photography is not such a constant source of inspiration for me as is architecture. But while deisgning I am open to influences from modern art and pop culture. During the Art Week Berlin back in Autumn 2015, we have discovered Franziska Stünkel’s experimental photography at the Positions-Exhibition, and this discovery was very inspiring because her Leitmotif which are complex reflections resonated very well with my approach to fashion that also plays with spaces, layers, and surfaces. So it felt natural for me to make this link to Franziska's work.
# What made you decide to focus on menswear? Having studied architecture before, my way to approach fashion was different. I didn’t start -41-
with menswear right away after college, but I soon discovered that this is the field in which I can develop my skills and tastes more. It’s rather clean and subtle and minimalistic, which I prefer – it matches my idea of what looks good on men – and the design concept is working well, too. # How do you start a collection? Do you sit down and start sketching or do you have completely different way of approaching it? I don’t sketch at all, actually. I mostly just have ideas in mind and then start building them up on a mannequin, pinning fabrics differently, cutting things, shaping forms and changing lines and dimensions. It’s in constant progress, and often more looks evolve from that process. And this process never ends: one collection gives way to the other.
# Looking at the collection for Autumn/Winter 16/17, the colors mostly range around grey and green, sometimes dark shades of blue – why did you choose to oppose these with the bright orange shade? Looking at all these colors next to each other, I think they match really well. It’s an interesting pair and they each intensify the other.
# Do you have a personal highlight in your collection? There are a few, actually. I like the short jackets, which are somewhat new segment, because I also really like the fabric we worked with, as well as the knitwear and the trench coat.
# Thank you very much for the interview.
View show report on our website:
MARIANA JUNGMANN “A bit of a Cinderella moment.” This is how the designer Mariana Jungmann describes her journey from Brazil to London, where she created her eponymous label a few years ago. Nerys from SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met with her to know a bit more about the brand and its new Autumn/Winter 2016 collection.
interview | Nerys d’Esclercs photos | © Mercedes-Benz Fashion
Before moving to London to study at the London College of Fashion (part of the prestigious University of the Arts), Mariana was already into working life. She did her bachelor’s degree in Brazil, and then started working for several brands, as well as owning a small label, with which she was selling garments to her friends. And, although she had a full-time job in a company at the time, she says she “wanted to grow more, to get to a bigger stage in her career.” That’s why she decided to do a Masters degree and to make the move to London. When she researched universities, she found out that London College of Fashion was one of the best in the world – and the best suited for her. As she explains, “I’m not arts and crafts. Although I do handmade lace, which is really intricate, I’m a very technical person; I like the way garments are constructed, I like a good finishing, so LCF was the place to go to learn that.” And thanks to this change, she shifted from “a girl from Brazil to the girl who’s showing in London and in Berlin.” What is so particular to Mariana Jungmann’s garments is the lace she works with. It is actually a traditional kind of lace, which is mainly produced in Northeast Brazil, and with which she grew up. She describes it as part of her “favourite childhood memories”, making it really close to her. And it is even more personal as she draws it, “exactly in the shape and size it needs to be”. Basically, for every lace sleeve, top or dress you see in Jungmann’s collections, every single pattern of every lace has been drawn by the designer herself, and then traditionally handmade in Brazil. A masterwork of time and dedication for a meticulous craft. And you can feel her love for her collection, not only in the actual dresses – or the fact she calls them her babies – but also in how she considers the lace. She explains: “these garments use something that has been made by hand, who am I to cut into someone’s art? I’d feel so bad, it’d be wrong.” The whole process lasts a long time, and this explains why every piece is so important to Mariana. On
one of the dresses, she reveals that they have spent 5 months from the lace design to the final embroideries. This illustrates how special the Mariana Jungmann garments are, and also why they are mostly made-to-order. A made-to-order that Mariana cherishes, due to the connection it brings her and her customers. “ I like telling stories, I like being part of someone’s life; that’s why I like making made-to-order. Because I learn about the customer, I talk to them, I see their eyes shine when they get their final garment.” A nice thought and way of working that gives a plus to the garments. It is not simply a piece that one buys in a shop; it is something that has been specially for you, by people that care.
Furthermore, Mariana pays attention to where all of her fabrics come from, by keeping most of them local, as in around Europe. Abstaining from mercerized fibers and polyester, the brand chooses to reduce as much toxic waste as possible. When asked if she considers her brand a sustainable fashion one, she answers: “I don’t like this labeling, to be very honest with you. Because I don’t think it should be a label. I think everybody should be conscious about what they’re dealing with and where it comes from. I think that should be the norm. It bothers me a little bit that there’s a need to have this label. It’s sad, in my opinion, because I think
everybody should work in that way.” A concerned designer, that makes her even more likeable: she cares as much about her customers as the world they are living in. The designer notes that some fast-fashion items are going to be worn twice and then thrown away because already deteriorated, whereas a garment that uses better quality fabrics can last longer, “then when you calculate the price per wear, it becomes cheap-ish” – and feels better on the skin. And Jungmann’s clothes definitely last longer thanks to her special molding technique, which she developed after wanting to create a laced corset. Using several resistant
points instead of just one along the seams, this technique makes her lace more resistant, and takes the seam lines off the sumptuous lace. In her new collection, Mariana Jungmann demonstrates a great talent that was inspired by two artists. “Frida Kahlo is like the most successful female artist in History. When she had an accident and broke her spine, she didn’t let that change her life. She could have said “Oh my god! I’m in pain, I’m sick, I’m not gonna do anything.” No, “I’m in pain, I’m sick, I’m gonna fight!” So I found that really inspiring, really strong. And because of her broken back, it reminded me of another artist called Monica Piloni, as she kind of breaks the body as well. She does sculptures and she has like a chair that has three person’s legs. So I was like those two, the broken back from Frida Kahlo and the broken body from Monica Piloni, they work. So the collection’s name is Deshecho, which means undone or broken. It’s about these two powerful, strong women artists; they fight for what they want, to get what they want. They have a kind of sensitivity that I think the women I design for have as well.” This pleasant idea of being as strong as Frida Kahlo, when everyone said she was going to die but she still fought and became an amazing painter, is certainly appealing and transcribed in the designer’s creations. Not only are they made of highly resistant fabrics, but they also have this amazing story behind them, which would make everyone proud of wearing these garments. Mariana uses her red dress with a laced sleeve as an example: “the body is segmented with lace but the dress still works as a whole.” This is exactly what her collection is all about: breaking the body like the two artists have lived or worked with, with the eyes of a fashion designer. Same with the colours with a balance between Kahlo’s vivid and bright colours and Piloni’s toned down nude or burgundy.
The season’s highlight is clearly Mariana’s favourite piece: the laced, embroidered black dress. And the story behind its creation is probably as beautiful as the final result. “Frida Kahlo used to wear a cast to support her back. And she would get bored, so she would draw on the cast. The cast was on her so much because she needed it; it became a very important part of her life. And she was embellishing that thing that was part of her life, that annoyed her, that made her life difficult, but at the same time it was how she could move around, and it was supporting her everything. And I was like “Okay, so what is one of the things in my life all the time?” The lace. I want to do something on top of that. I’m gonna have my Frida Kahlo moment. So we started embroidering the lace. We started putting crystals on top of it. I think in the whole collection there are about 10 000 Swarowski crystals. And that dress has like half of it.” A luxurious feel for this hand-made laced, hand-made Swarowski crystal-embroidered dress, which surely deserves it. This signature lace has been in Mariana Jungmann’s life a support in establishing her brand and making it what it is now, an artist’s label. She finished on the note “This season it’s just me – and a bunch of crystals!” But the “just” needs to be removed. The designer clearly has something to say about herself, fashion, the environment and other inspiring artists, but especially about her designs – that are worth talking about. Everyone has a story to tell, which Mariana Jungmann understood right away, hence why she creates such a unique connection with her customers.
View show report on our website:
MBFWB SHOW REPORTS Click on the image to read the show report on our website
photos | ÂŠ Mercedes-Benz Fashion
I'VR ISABEL VOLLRATH
Click on the image to read the show report on our website
MINX by Eva Lutz
Shih Chien University
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text | Nerys d’Esclercs photos | © JULIAN MARTINI
A royal place for high-end German fashion In the luxurious Kronprinzenpalais, Der Berliner Mode Salon opened its doors to fashion professionals. In a highly exclusive atmosphere, the big names of German fashion gathered to observe and celebrate this year’s group presentation of designers. People greeted one another, either they knew each other or they met here for the first time, but they all talked. That was Der Berliner Mode Salon’s privilege: communicating. It is maintaining a close relationship between the ones that make German fashion happen. Press people could exchange thoughts on a designer’s great technique, and then directly talk to the designer himself to know more about it. This connection between everyone that needs to be known is what will increase German fashion to a greater scale. Supported by the new Fashion Council Germany, this salon promotes made-in-Germany fashion, to present its great competences to an international audience. Christiane Arp, editor-in-chief of German Vogue and president of the Fashion Council Germany, and Marcus Kurz, managing director of creative agency NOWADAYS, are behind this initiative as they have recognized the need for such an event. They felt this event could support German designers and help them extend their customer audience. Der Berliner Mode Salon seems to be working, as its number of designers presented rose from 18 to 40. More and more significant German designers recognize the potential behind this group exhibition, and want to be part of the adventure – only
for the better. Over four floors, the creations displayed varied from women’s wear, menswear, bags and eyewear to other accessories. A wide range of made-in-Germany products for an industry that can only grow further. Some designers, such as Dorothee Schumacher, Iris V Arnim, Michael Sontag, Tim Labenda and Antonia Zander, decided to include models in their installation to give a real-life feeling, and to illustrate how their garments fell on a woman’s body to the guests. Other designers like Lala Berlin, Hannibal and Dawid Tomaszewski used significant props to complement their collection. Lala Berlin’s triangular prism made of mirrors, or Hannibal’s lamppost hangers supported their garments in a memorable way.
Isabell De Hillerin
With a range of materials from cashmere (Allude, Andrea Karg or Antonia Zander), silk, fur (Gabriele Frantzen) to vegetable-tanned leather (PB0110’s signature), the Salon exhibited designers that could offer something to all fields of the international fashion market. Styles also differed from classical work wear to more trend oriented: Escada or René Storck both displayed high-end elegant classic clothing, while Augustin Teboul presented their typical rock but feminine looks. The exhibition clearly included designs to suit all tastes, as even pyjamas were presented, with Horror Vacui’s colourful nightwear-turned-into-art. As highlights, the sumptuous hand-crocheted necklaces and collars from Rita in Palma retained attention for their beautiful way of complement-
ing outfits. Isabell De Hillerin and her elegant maxi looks also need to be mentioned; with traditional artisanry and beautifully finished cuts, the designer produced elegant and classic work wear. Although classics, the outfits still made an impression by catching everyone’s eye in the room. The very unique Benu Berlin presented allwhite looks that consisted of fringes and strings of fabrics, intertwined with each other to create dazzling pieces of art. On the last floor, the Vogue Salon exposed 10 separate designers who not only presented garments, but fashionable lifestyle accessories as well: room perfumes, makeup accessories or even alcohol, with the brand Preussischer Whisky. The Vogue Salon focused on more upcoming tal-
brought innovation to their designs: Nobieh Talaei by mixing what appear to be simple silhouettes with complicated drapes and folds, while dealing with the complex subject of ethnical blend. Marina Hoermanseder presented a highly unconventional collection in bringing orthopedic elements to high fashion, and – although it sounds untrue – making it completely wearable.
Many more interesting designers were displayed at the Kronprinzenpalais, each demonstrating how German fashion is a full part of today’s industry. Christiane Arp and Marcus Kurz have started an interesting project with high ambitions, which seems to be on the right track to success. Der Berliner Mode Salon and the Vogue Salon chose a royal place for high-end German fashion, and they have not let their guests down with such a variety of luxurious garments and accessories.
ents and designers new to the market. The Fashion Council Germany, also sponsoring this Salon, wishes to support new German designers, in the hope that they could develop this market to a further extent. Hence they have started a mentoring program via the Council, with which they coach emerging German designers and present them as artists to look out for. In September 2015, two designers benefitted from this mentoring program: Marina Hoermanseder and Nobi Talai. Having received advice in their creative, production and marketing fields, the designers have this year presented their Autumn/ Winter 2016 collection as part of the Vogue Salon’s group exhibition, as well as a runway show held at the same Kronprinzenpalais. Both designers -58-
Antonia Zander Cashmere
Iris VON ARnim
A DAY FULL OF SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL FASHION PANEL DISCUSSION KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL SOMYSO FRANKFURT STYLE AWARD FINALLY THE SHOWS
texts | SARAH WEYERS photos | © JULIAN MARTINI
A DAY FULL OF SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL FASHION One of the highlights of BERLIN FASHION WEEK is the two fashion trade fairs GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN. Sarah Weyers from SUPERIOR MAGAZINE took a whole day to discover news and trends at both trade fairs and met Olaf Schmidt for an interview. Olaf Schmidt, Vice President Textiles & Textile Technologies of Messe Frankfurt opened the GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN on Tuesday, January 19th and introduced every visitor to the outlook right away: the green fashion segment is constantly growing. With 166 brands showcasing their collection for autumn/ winter 2016/17, a portfolio this big was never presented to the charming Postbahnhof’s visitors before.
We spoke to Olaf Schmidt again and asked him about the changes he would see and the development of the fair in comparison to the one in July last year, and he clearly pointed out how positively the brands’ styles have been developed and that many of them have never been this fashionable and high in quality before. He added that even the presentation of the collections have changed positively. While the brands that showcased their collections in summer have focused on apparel, another market that is continuously growing is lifestyle products and shoes. With the great variety of labels showing handbags, jewellery and scarves, as well as many different shoes, the portfolio has never been this big before.
On both floors, the GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN presented their collections in great variety: both street wear and high-end fashion have never been this stylish. "Ethical and fashionable are no longer opposites", Schmidt explains. One big topic for both visitors and brands has been the concept of cradle to cradle, as the label Mela Wear inhabits perfectly. Another important factor has been integrating green fashion into the conventional point of concept stores and warehouses’ sales, since the inhibition threshold has always been a challenge. Actress Ursula Karven gave her opinion on green fashion, as the brand ambassador for People Wear Organic and their yoga line, and pointed out the importance of the finished product’s look. She strongly agreed with Schmidt in terms of how fashionable green clothes are and that the prejudice has been eliminated. -62-
How well the consumer reacts to fashion that has been ethically produced and ecologically sustainable shows the ongoing growth of the GREENSHOWROOM and ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN. Olaf Schmidt mentioned that many more brands have requested to showcase at the fairs, yet have been declined because they were not fulfilling the high standards required by the fashion fairs. "Buyers, the press and other visitors have a certain level of trust in us that all the brands here fulfill by meeting all the requirements, which is why we are sure to keep track of their backgrounds." The growing requests to showcase on a green fashion fair only confirms the hopes of all supporting sustainability: many brands start to rethink their production and materials and want to grow more ethically fair and ecological.
Schmidt added that so far the sustainable casual wear had been growing, but high-end fashion as presented in the GREENSHOWROOM was able to register stable growth. He added that the growing quality and fashionability of the clothes are the most important factors and that sustainability is still an add-on for the consumer and retailer but that the niche market in which green fashion still is, will eventually expand and compete to the conventional fashion market. When asked about his personal opinion on chains like H&M implying a social conscious by bringing lines such as the "Conscious Collection" to the market, Olaf Schmidt - surprisingly - complimented them for even considering the direction. "By introducing the mass of consumers to problems caused by cheap production and offering them an alternative in the same store, the costumer leaves with a better feeling after the purchase and might even start to think about where his clothes come from. And that is the first step" Schmidt explained. -63-
PANEL DISCUSSION Integrating ethically and ecologically sustainable fashion into the conventional point of sales has been a difficult task ever since the emergence of sustainability in fashion. Opening the full schedule of workshops, discussions and presentations at this season’s ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN and GREENSHOWROOM during Berlin Fashion Week Berlin’s autumn/winter 2016/17 season was a panel discussion concurring exactly this topic. Experts from different fields shared their point of view in a short but informing dialogue, giving insights on market reality, future opportunities and consumer wishes. Dr. Hempel, of the fashion warehouse Hempel in Wolfsburg, has offered a portfolio of long-term sustainable brands and cited nine labels in women's and men's wear. Brands like Knowledge Cotton, Lanius, PeopleTree and more form a separate point of sales in the entrance area of the store - by now gaining around 20% of total sales. Concerns of downgrading other fashions vanished quickly; Hempel started selling sustainable clothes back in 2009 and the range of labels and number of single pieces sold increase steadily. Her ultimate goal is expanding the portfolio of sustainable brand and using the positive development to - step by step maybe one day replace conventional brands. Another strategy to integrate a more sustainable product into the present collection was presented by Kai Mayr, who is leading 140 shops of Fussl Modestraße in the 5th generation. His strategy is offering cotton shirts with their own label, produced exclusively with organic materials and within the EU. Even though the simple shirts make around 5% of total sales, being high for a product of that kind, brought concerns by Meyer: " the consumer does not buy the pro cut because it is -64-
organic, but because it is made of high quality fabrics and looks and feels good. Also, the pricing is only slightly higher than that of other comparable products, which is why the consumer devices in favor of the higher quality product." So the ecological and ethical background of the product is not the deciding factor. He explained that the niche of green fashion couldn’t be seen as a mass market yet. He also mentioned another interesting thought: sustainability is a metropolitan train of thought - with 140 stores in Austria and only 13 cities with more than 30.000 people, mass market there would be a difficult task. Holger Wellner pointed out that the trend is emerging in different fields, including food and lifestyle. Since the media is giving clear impulses and shapes opinions and concerns of consumers, costumers start questioning products directly at the POS, which demands communication of information. The younger generation is more informed than the older one, especially because of their access to social media and a more transparent market than ever. With this information in mind, they are willing to spend more money on a product of higher quality and ethical and ecological standards. Marc Ramelow explained an important concern, by exposing that three factors play a role in the process of selling a product. The buying decision is based on the style of the product and the price, and lastly the sustainable specks. When the first two factors are not satisfying the consumer's needs, the background of the product looses importance quickly. Because replacing the core brands of the warehouse is a difficult task, another next step for 2016 will be questioning 100 of the labels sold at the
Eco-fashion in the sales floor: how the conventional fashion trade can integrate eco-fashion into its assortment.
store to find out more about their chain of production, materials and chemicals used during the process of making the products, as well as working conditions in the factories. Linda Mohrmann, the CEO of a fair fashion agency agreed that the style is the most important factor to a product. The eco-background of clothes has rather been a beneficial add-on for the retailer so far, enabling him to tell a story and raise a social conscious aspect to the costumer. Considering the mostly high pricing of sustainable fashion, she explained that the consumer needs to console these products to other high-end brands; not only in the price point but also in quality. When asked what the steps are to bring green fashion into the conventional market, the first answer was informing the consumer - the more information available on production and materials, the greater the wish and will for sustainable products (even of higher prices) will be. -65-
For a brand to be successful at the POS, surrounded by conventional brands, the look and feel of the products is essential. Hempel explained that integrating men's wear is easier, due to their collections. Yet, women’s wear has never been this stylish before. Concluding with the thought on which everyone agreed, that the sustainable fashion market is at rise, this part of the ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN and GREENSHOWROOM was a great opening to the two fashion fairs.
KNOWLEDGECOTTON APPAREL One of the most renown labels that showcased their collection at ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN is the Danish label KnowledgeCotton Apparel, with whom we got to spend a couple of minutes to talk about their designs, their current campaign, sustainability and the importance of educating consumers on sustainability.
# Where do you sell your clothes? Do you focus on concept stores and online shops or on something else? On conventional stores, actually. Only Germany has this potential of bringing sustainable clothes into new concept stores and making them lifestyle products instead of typical green fashion. Since Bernd Hausmann, it became a movement with consumers that we try to satisfy.
# And where do you see the target group? I wouldn’t really call it a target group as in age or social status. It’s rather like-minded people and people that live sustainably who want those clothes and interior pieces, food, transportation. It’s not only the pair of jeans or the T-Shirt anymore; it covers so many more aspects. I personally only live on second-hand interior, I renovated them all and it looks cool and has character.
# So it’s rather a sustainable package. Exactly. We buy our vegetables on the market, put them in a basket and take them home; we don’t need plastic bags or any other plastics that -66-
travel around the world before ending up in my fridge. And it’s the same with clothes - that’s how we should try to see it. We throw so much away, tons of things nobody needs. We need to produce things that last longer; not only in quality, but also in style.
# So what is your strategy to achieve that? We try to produce clothes that are sustainably thought: it’s like a Lego-box. You can buy things from the collection every year and combine them with pieces from the last and the next collection and build your closet based on what you already have. You can combine everything.
# So the new collection is also based on that concept… Exactly. Most of the pieces are beige, green, and grey, blue. And the things are available all year long.
# What was the idea behind the current collection? It’s called “Factory Heroes – think organic, wear your brain” in order for people to consume more consciously and use their brain when purchasing clothes. And we also want to show who the people behind the products are, the people in the factory or even one step before; the people on the field. Most of the production is in Turkey, which fits very well into their mentality. We portray exactly that in our look book as well and we want to give the consumer an insight on how the people live. We added some recipes, to close the
circle with slow fashion and slow food; it’s made daily and freshly and is another step towards sustainability. It’s really for our kids to create a world in which they can live too, without everything being trashed and dirty.
# And where else besides turkey do you produce? Mainly in Turkey and also in Portugal and India. All of our productions sites are GOTS certified. We visit those sites twice a year in order to make sure everything is right and well.
# What is the plan for your next campaign? The next one is going to be about the trash and waist in the oceans and the opportunities we get to clean the waters and make new materials from it.
# So you up-cycle old plastic bottles? What other materials do you work with? For the recycling we use PET bottles; for one jacket you need around 20-30 bottles. They are water resistant and really warm!
# For our last question we would like to know what you think is the most important factor for the consumer to purchase sustainable clothes? Trust. A level of trust is always necessary for the consumer to buy a product. They want to know where it comes from and how it is made and the story behind it. Fashion is always about emotions and passion – if it’s emotional, it always works. If the story around the product doesn’t work, it does not matter how good the product is. People need to like the story. And we try to offer that by working with people who love fashion, who love this way of life and the products, too.
# Thank you very much for the interview. -67-
SOMYSO Another very interesting label Sarah got to meet at GREENSHOWROOM is swizz brand SomySo. Discovering uniqueness through similarity, the sustainable label that showcased their new collection for the autumn/winter 2016/17 season put a focus on disappearing communities – playing with feminine cuts and playful details. With the motif of raising awareness for native communities and their endangered living conditions, the brand incorporates many details that reflect an indigenous touch. The colour range includes black, fire-red, brown, sunny gold and yellow. “These colours, which we also meet in nature, characterize the collection and express the idea of “painted souls”, as the label explains. Every piece of clothing from the label is produced in Switzerland and from sustainable sources in Germany, Austria, Italy, France or Switzerland, too. Aiming to deliver a feeling of “Eco Glamour”, the label shows their pieces in Berlin.
More sustainable fashion labels in SUPERIOR MAGAZINE January 2016 -68-
FRANKFURT STYLE AWARD The FRANKFURT STYLE AWARD is a talent contest that has been developed to challenge fashion design students in presenting their creativity, originality and innovative spirit. Since its first edition in 2008 Frankfurt STYLE AWARD grew more every year and became a prestigious national and international award. This season, Frankfurt STYLE AWARD presented at GREENSHOWROOM for the first time. Anne Lonnes, who is a fashion design student from Fashion Design Institute Düsseldorf, applied for the Frankfurt STYLE AWARD 2015 with her creation “Reincarnation” and won the first prize in the category “Ecological Green”. At first, nothing seems odd about the piece, but when you take a closer look, it becomes clear that the entire creation is made from painted plastic spoons. “In school we are constantly surrounded by the topic of sustainability. I am more of an artsy person and tried to incorporate the topic of consciousness into my collection”, Lonnes explains. “Being in my fifth semester at school I went to a couple of parties, which is also what I got my inspiration from: I was at a house party and just thought to myself ‘Wow, there is so much trash here!’ and it went from there, really.” She created a piece of art from something that is usually thrown away, which is what is as impressive as it is saddening. Thinking about the waste created every day, Anne wants to work with a company that shares her values.
FINALLY THE SHOWS Salonshow ESMOD Berlin International University of Art for Fashion opened this season’s GREENSHOWROOM Salonshow. With the sustainable market growing constantly, this show was one of the most important events during the 3-day fashion fair, because a wide range of designers got to show their designs, innovations and visions for the Autumn/ Winter 2016/17 season. Many visitors awaited the versatile looks patiently, while live music brought by a singer and a DJ accompanied the vital atmosphere. Labels like Zora Heinicke showed turtlenecks and asymmetric skirts, Kate brought French flair with culottes and fringes. JM Jinst Muruin used wide trousers and visibly natural materials, showing men’s and women’s wear in high quality. Altai Cashmere proved once more that outfits don’t have to be form fitting in order to be feminine: oversized O-silhouettes were one of the dominating trends this season. One of the most famous sustainable labels to show their highlights on the runway was Lanius, the label from Cologne, who showed chic office looks. Dominating colors were a dark mustard tone, black, white and blue as well as a reoccurring flower theme. Caspargus, the men’s dress shirt label had their models walk in one of their collection again like last year, along with nothing but underwear. More labels to show the highlights of their collections were Ayurganic, Xess + Baba, Tu & Tu, Studio Elsien Gringhuis, Blue Sky Cashmere, Mongol Textile and many more.
Ethical Fashion on Stage Green street style has never looked this cool - 50 looks by 19 labels proved again that sustainability is far from boring. The Ethical Fashion on Stage with labels from the ETHICAL FASHION SHOW BERLIN showed exactly that. Using intense make up and showing playful and modern looks, they demonstrated that sustainability is for every fashionista, too. Dailyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Nothings Better introduced sweats and shirts in a slightly organic look to the audience. Feuervogl had the focus on denim with special denim jackets as well as prints on denim, turtlenecks and sporty shirts. One of the highlights of the show was Tuschimo, who showed bright red dresses in creative cuts and sleek lines, creating feminine body shapes and elegant fits. More labels showing at the Ethical Fashion on Stage show were DeÂ´qua, Diamond Army, Early Fish, Mud Jeans, Rewrap, Get Lazy and many more.
Behind the Scenes by Julian Martini -72-
coat & necklace Vintage pants Selected shirt Hugo by Hugo Boss shoes Asos
photography by Tamara Hansen post production by Lisa Ă&#x2030;voluer styling up by Dina Lutz make up by Adina Hensel model Yulha @ Cocaine Models -93-
overall WHITE backpack Joop shoes Model's own ring Asos
shirt WHITE pants & necklace Vintage shoes Daisy Street socks Monki
sweater Story of Lola skirt Alice McCall shoes Asos jacket All Saints
overall WHITE backpack Joop shoes Model's own ring Asos
pants & jacket Asos Premium shirt Hugo by Hugo Boss socks Kunert bow tie H&M hat vintage
shirt Asos pants & vest Asos Petite shoes Eeight tie Reclaimed Vintage
During Berlin Fashion Week Nerys and Julian from SUPERIOR MAGAZINE met with the Danish singer Medina, who will release her new album “We Survive” in February 2016. With only two days in Berlin and a busy schedule, Medina found time to greet us in the presidential suite at the new Titanic Deluxe hotel, where she talked about her music, her fans, friendship and fashion.
interview & text | Nerys d’Esclercs photos | © JULIAN MARTINI
# Can you tell us exactly how you were discovered? I was making music with a producer. Because I grew up in a music family, so it’s always been part of my life. And then I met these two guys, when I was working in a sandwich bar. These two guys came in, and I was playing my own music on the stereo, and they asked me “What is this?” And I was like “Oh that’s my own music” And then, as they were producers as well, they invited me up to listen to what they do and they wanted to hear what I did. A year later we started working, and it just went really fast from there.
# Would you have expected such a great success? Of course I would dream of it. But, I didn’t know what to expect. I just did it, and all of a sudden I was finding myself in the middle of this crazy life, that I live.
# How does it feel? I love it – I love my life. I mean, it takes everything; it takes a lot from you to do this. Many things come with it, but I love it so much, I wouldn’t trade it for anything in the world, ever.
It’s been the longest process so far in my career in making an album.
# How does it feel to be back in Berlin today? Oh god, I love being back! I did my first performance in three years, not that long ago, at the label. It’s just such a good feeling, having the fans waiting outside the hotel, and people writing “We’ve been waiting for three years for this, finally!” And people all over the world are writing me, and reposting the cover and everything. So it’s just such a nice feeling that, you know, that they’ve been waiting for me! I’m so honoured. I’m extremely grateful – I’m beyond grateful. I wouldn’t be here if it wasn’t for my fans. I owe them everything.
# Your new album “We survive” is coming our in February. What was your recording process? It’s been the longest process so far in my career in making an album. It took me three years to do this. I’ve not only worked on that, but I’ve done Danish things as well – touring and shooting a sitcom and writing other stuff and working with other people. So all of a sudden time just flew by, and three years has passed. It’s been a long process, but I think it’s been a healthy process, because I’ve had to really think about “Okay, what do I now want for this album and how do I do this?” I’ve had many inner fights with myself, I was like split to pieces, because I couldn’t really decide – I had different favourites, and the next day I would do another and that was a new favourite, and I thought the old favourite was not a favourite anymore. So, a lot of confusion, a lot of feelings. I mean I’ve been through so many things the past year. It’s my first album that I didn’t have a deadline – I mean, I actually did – but it’s the first time in my career I didn’t have a deadline, like it has to be done by next month.
# So you've had more a creative process behind it. Yeah. I’ve learnt so much, and it was so nice.
# Are they personal songs? Very personal. I mean, I’m extremely personal, always. Some of the songs, you can really feel my anger, my hate and my love and my grief, my happiness. My fans would know how personal the songs are. I can’t help it; it’s always personal to me.
# Now that the album is done, do you have any favourite song, and why? I have two favourites. One is the happiest song, and the other is the hate song. One of them is called “Walking Mistake”; it’s a song that I wrote and, actually, I recorded a lot of the instruments with my vocals. Because, I couldn’t figure out how to explain to my producers what kind of sound I wanted, so I was like “Can you just record this sound, cause I think I wanna use this!” So, it’s actually quite different, because I’m singing a lot of the instruments. And the way that it changes all the way through the end – I just really love it. I think it’s such a strong song. The other song is called “By Your Side”, it’s a happy, dancy song. I wrote it for all of my best friends, and it’s about the fact that I know that if I die tomorrow, they would be fine without me – they will always be fine without me. But with them in my life, I am stronger. I’m always by their side, always, and they’re by my side. Because the friendship that I have with my girls is really unique, and we’re like family, and they’ve had seen me grow as an artist – good and bad – they know everything, every little bad detail about me. They have me, they have my back, one thousand per cent. And when I’m gonna shoot the video, I’m thinking about taking them out to Vegas, and just hand them all a video camera, and we’re just gonna shoot the video our-106-
selves. Be drunk, throw up, jump in the pool without our clothes, I don’t know. Only thing is they’re so fucking busy, I don’t know how to make this happen!
# What kind of reaction are you expecting from your audience? I think this album is gonna be their favourite. Because it’s my favourite, and I think you can feel that. Not that the other ones were not my favourite at the time. But I’ve just listened for the first time last week to the whole album, when I was working out, and lucky for me I was alone up there, in the studio, because I was like “Wow, this is so good!” Next song, I was so feeling it! And I was really proud. I’m really proud if this one, because it took a lot from me, for me to do this record.
# A few years back you were the face of Reebok. What is your take on fashion? Do you consider yourself a very fashionable person? I love it. I mean, I’m not a slave to it, because I actually just wear what I like. If I don’t like it, I’m not gonna wear it. And I don’t care who made it. I have to stand up for what I do, and like and don’t like. I’m like an open book.
# Do you have any favourite designer? I don’t know. You can always find my favourite on Instagram, because I keep on tagging the clothes that I wear. I actually don’t have a favourite brand because very few brands make a lot of things that I like. I think the brand that I own the most from would be Chanel. But it’s mostly, like, accessories and shoes. Leather jacket is my favourite brand!
# Would you ever be the face of another brand? Oh, yeah definitely! But I’m very selective. I’ve been the face of a few different things – Reebok, Schweppes, a jewellery line. Reebok I did like three campaigns, Schweppes I’ve done for three years, and the jewellery line I did for three years as well. But I’m trying not to say yes to too many things, because I think it’s a bit untrustworthy, in a way. We’re really selective with who we worth with. We – I mean, me and my music family.
# Are you gonna see any show at this Berlin Fashion Week? Yes, I met the cutest guy yesterday. His name is Dawid Tomaszewski. I saw him online, and he’s done some shows with some very nice and interesting pieces. He’s one of the few who actually had more than one piece that I liked. I’m actually gonna wear a dress of his later today, and I might wear some of his clothes for his show tomorrow. He’s the only guy that I’m gonna go see. And both of these outfits are actually in feathers, so quite cute. Some old items, though, but those are my favourites.
# Do you have any exciting projects coming up? Oh god yes! I have so many things coming up, and I don’t know what to tell you, because they’re always “No, you can’t talk about this!” So for me the main thing is just this album right now, and one hundred per cent focus on “We Survive”, and my fans worldwide. And hopefully working on a tour. I miss my fans over here, and I wanna see them again soon.
# Thank you very much!
coat Missguided dress, pants & necklace By Malene Birger belt Stylist's own
photography by Simone Becchetti styling by Natalie Deutsch & Maria Knofe @ surreflections hair & make up by Eavan Derbyshire -109-
model Maria Knofe
coat Asos necklace Ottoman t-shirt Stills top Minimum pants & shoes Stylists's own
hat Minimum shirt Minus sweater Augustin Teboul pants Skunkfunk
blazer Stills Hello Sailor sweater Chinti and Parker shirt Minimum socks Falke pants & shoes Stylist's own
sweater Chinti and Parker harness Marlies Dekkers necklace 24 Colors Pencil skirt Studio CDG
scarf By Malene Birger
coat Asos necklace Ottoman t-shirt Stills top Minimum pants & shoes Stylists's own
coat Missguided dress, pants & necklace By Malene Birger belt Stylist's own
coat Asos necklace Ottoman t-shirt Stills top Minimum pants & shoes Stylists's own
“I felt peace as I lay my hand on a wave.” Have you heard about LOVIA? If not, make sure you don’t miss out! A new, green label from Finland that emphasizes elegant and edgy looks and a commitment to transparency and sustainability. Based in Helsinki, it sets fire to any romantic’s heart—combining mythological themes and clean Nordic design to create a haunted air of nature. We visited LOVIA’s atelier right next to a bay in Helsinki and talked to designer Outi Korpilaakso about inspiration, Nordic aesthetics, and elegance.
text | Victoria Trunova photos | Lovia & Jussi Ratilainen
# What are Nordic aesthetics, and what role do they play in your designs? For me it means purity and tranquility in design. Nordic Aesthetics is like the calmness of nature, conveying the richness of the wilderness but still presenting itself with elegant silence. It is beautiful, but you have to stop and take in the beauty, because it is not clamoring for attention. I think this is the core philosophy behind my designs. I very much relate my aesthetics to the Nordic natural world and mythology, but Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m interested in bringing all that elegance into the present.
# How does Finnish fashion differ from the other Nordic trends? In general, I think there are probably more colors and prints, and it's all not overly serious around here,Â which I think is a good thing... so maybe Finnish labels are more playful than those in other Nordic countries.
# Elegance seems to be another important aspect of your work. How do you define this? To me, elegance is calm silence. It means making less and leaving out the inessentials. Small, delicate details and measurements play a huge role in shaping the design. Elegance is also an attitude, an awareness and respect for life.
# What inspires you most? Nature in all its forms, especially the power it carries within a sea or a forest. I love watching a storm by the sea and feeling it on my skin. Old pine trees fascinate me because of all the unimaginable formations found in their trunks and bark.
# What materials do you work with? Mainly with recycled leather, organic Finnish sheep leather, elk leather, reindeer suede, and organic silk.
# How do you think a green label can sustain itself on the fashion market nowadays? I think the timing is perfect. People are becoming more and more aware about different choices and also value having a choice. If a fashion brand can communicate its values honestly and engagingly, I believe it definitely is an advantage and an opportunity for the brand to stand out.
# Where are your products made? The bags are produced in Italy and Estonia in small factories and ateliers. Our clothing is made to order in Finland.
# Where can we see your shows and buy your fashion? Our latest show took place in Copenhagen at the Tesla showroom this September. We will see what the venue for the next show will be. We have retailers in London (Red Vatican) and in Helsinki (Urbantory) and in international web shops like NJaL and Stylewhile. At the moment we are negotiating with retailers all around the world.
# What are you future goals? To be famous for bringing transparency to the next level in high-end fashion worldwide. That would be our contribution toward making the world a little better place to live for everyone.
# Your favorite designer? Alexander McQueen, Coco Chanel…
# What's a “must-wear” this winter? Leather and suede, preferably recycled and organic. When it comes to colors, wine red or jade green. Most importantly, self-confidence and graceful attitude are always must-haves.
Photos: ÂŠ Jussi Ratilainen
FUNERAL FOR FASHION photography by Marc Huth photography assistant Nico Ernst styling by Victoria Richter styling assistant ELSA SONNTAG hair & make up by Kati Mertsch models Alon Elzara @ Modelfabrik, Vanessa H채nisch @ ViVa Models, Hanna Tolka Nitsa @ m4 Models
left: dress Valentine Gauthier skirt Selected Femme coat Vila gloves Vero Moda fascinator Monki socks Calzedonia shoes, earrings & bracelet Forever 21 bag United Colours of Benetton
middle: pants Only & Sons jacket Jack and Jones sweater Selected Homme shoes Rover and Lakes
right: sweater Vila skirt United Colours of Benetton shirt Adept bag Cosmo Paris shoes Buffalo
skirt Steinrohner jacket mbyM shoes Vagabond gloves Only
shirt Object fascinator Bijou Brigitte earrings Forever 21
left: dress Glamorous bra TK Maxx middle: skirt Tibi blouse Vila gloves Only
right: coat Weekday shirt & pants Edwin
top & skirt Object coat WE tights Falke
left: dress Les Temps des cerises earring Art Youth Society
right: sweater Only & Sons
dress Noisy May coat WE
top & jacket Vila pants Object bra H&M
left: fascinator Bijou Brigitte blouse Vero Moda skirt Vila shoes Vagabond
right: pants Edwin jacket Japan Rags sweater ADPT shoes Zara
Y O U R EDITORIAL -140-73-
MAY 2015 DIGITAL
editorials from JANUARY @ Superior online
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coming out on March 4th 2016
# MARCH 2016