SUPERIOR ONLINE November 2012

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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

# NOVEMBER 2012


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Fall / Winter 2013/14

InternatIonal FashIon trade show


November 2012

JANUARY 15–17, 2013

StAtioN-BeRliN luckenwalder Str. 4-6, 10963 Berlin www.premiumexhibitions.com -3-


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connected to fashion

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#  I m p r i n t SUPERIOR MAGAZINE Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin www.superior-mag.com connection@superior-mag.com Publisher  SUPERIOR Publishing UG (haftungsbeschränkt) Lychener Strasse 76, 10437 Berlin Chief Editor V.i.S.d.P.  Tom Felber / tom@superior-mag.com Photography Director  Marc Huth / marc@superior-mag.com fashion Director  Simon Heeger / simon@superior-mag.com art Director  Jesse Benjamin / jesse@superior-mag.com Editorial Department  editor@superior-mag.com Advertising  advertising@superior-mag.com PR Management  press@superior-mag.com Superior Magazine accepts no liability for any unsolicited material whatsoever. Opinions contained in the editorial content are those of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publisher of Superior Magazine. Despite careful control Superior Magazine accepts no liability for the content of external links. Any reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is strictly prohibited

contributors  Dustin Janko, Jennifer Endom, Julia Kiecksee, Kay Smith, Keith Major, Lauretta Suter, Sven-Anton Svenson

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November 2012

#  Editorial Dear readers, For most of the history of photography, black and white photography was a photographer’s only choice for taking pictures. Later color film became a more popular choice for photographs, causing black and white photography to decline in popularity. However, photographers are rediscovering the power and timeless nature that black and white film can lend to photos. For our SUPERIOR ONLINE November issue we have chosen seven EDITORIALS which, we think, prove this statement. To complete our black & white edition for #SELECTION we detected three fabulous labels during Paris Fashion Week - Rosa Maria, Seth Sobek and Rigards - that play with the 'black & white theme' by presenting their accessories.

Our #STORY presents the artist Roland Schappert who plays with the language on different media very often in black & white. Enjoy the SUPERIOR ONLINE November 2012 issue and see how multifaceted BLACK & WHITE can be ... Tom & Marc

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Issue November 2012

Editorial & Imprint  -10-

#  Selection Rosa Maria -16-

Seth Sobek  -20RIGARDS — When it comes to eyewear that looks one-of-akind, it’s hard to argue with the appeal of horns – particularly when they’re as visually arresting as the ones from RIGARDS. Adapted from the French word »regard« (look, glance), RIGARDS is a mission to rediscover the hidden treasures of horn frames and to share them with eyewear aficionados through small numbered editions.

Rigards  -24-

#  Editorial Sven-Anton Svensson »This is it«  -32-

Jennifer Endom »VITA«  -44-

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Lauretta Suter »Wanderlust«  -52-

Keith Major »Look at me now«  -62-

Kay Smith »Between the light and shadow«  -86-

Dustin Janko »Starter«  -96-

Julia Kiecksee »the shades«  -106-

#  Story Roland Schappert -74-

Brands -118-

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COPYRIGHT 2012 © SPIKE LEE

November 2012

LE BOOK THE REfERENCE fOR fASHION, PHOTOGRAPHY, IMAGE-MAKING & PRODUCTION. 4 INTERNATIONAL COLLECTORS’ PRINT EDITIONS PER YEAR - NEW YORK, PARIS, LONDON, BERLIN LE BOOK.COM STAY TUNED...NEW WEBSITE WITH EDITORIALS, ADvERTISING CAMPAIGNS AND PORTfOLIOS. THE vERY BEST Of THE CREATIvE INDUSTRY, ALL IN ONE PLACE CONNECTIONS THE CUSTOM- MADE TRADESHOW fOR THE CREATIvE COMMUNITY – NEXT STOP: LA, PARIS, NEW YORK, BERLIN & LONDON

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SELECTION IN NOVEMBER FROM PARIS BY SIMON

ROSA MARIA — For those who haven’t met Lebanese jewellery designer ROSA MARIA yet: She was born in Beirut during Lebanon’s Golden Era and has been since her youth fascinated with the old antique jewellery that her parents collected over many years of travel. As a long-time partner at Beirut’s IF Boutique, with its selection of avant-garde clothing and accessories, ROSA MARIA started making clothes and accessories for fun. When she decided to follow her passion and develop her own line of jewellery on a professional basis in 1998 it was clear from the beginning that the result would mirror her own very original personal style of mixing various elements in an unconventional manner.

ROSA MARIA'S creations are made from a mix of silver, gold, zinc and copper combined with a wild array of stones, such as rose-cut diamonds in different colors, rubies, sapphires, tourmalines and topaz. The raw, organic shapes of her rings give wearers endless possibilities for adding more styles each season and combining them with one other. “It is like a puzzle with someone putting the bits together to create different combinations,” explains ROSA MARIA. We should warn you: It’s hard not to become addicted! Sooner than you expect, all your fingers will be covered with the precious, wild mix of ROSA MARIA'S creations… www.rosamariajewellery.com

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November 2012

SETH SOBEK -

Fish skin plays a main role in all collections, because of its amazing durability and strong A deep love for strong leathers and the unique character. It gets nicer the more you use it, and beauty of luxury fish skins are fused together in the best: fish skin is a luxury recycling product the designs of London based bag brand SETH (it is usually a by-product of the seafood indusSOBEK. Leonie von Lieres, a Paris based former try). As a sustainable material, that is at the trend scout for WeAr Magazine and current cre- same time very luxurious, fish skin is the perative consultant, teamed up with London leather fect choice for SETH SOBEK. The roughness of master Jas Sehmbi, the creative mind behind the the fish skin, stands in contrast to the sleek geoJAS MB bag line, to create SETH SOBEK, a unique metric designs made of high-quality thick leathhigh-end line that combines the elegant chic of ers, wearing often polished open seams and big Paris with a London edge. signature metal hardware. The name of their line, SETH SOBEK, is composed of the names of two ancient Egyptian gods. Seth was the god of chaos, of the desert, of all things wild and natural, whereas Sobek was the god of the Nile, the crocodiles. Together, Seth and Sobek stand for the symbiosis of the materials used in the collection: rough, wild textures meet strong sleek leathers.

For Fall/Winter 2012/13, they launched the debut collection with Perch skin details as intricate eye-catchers. »For winter we wanted to work with an exotic skin that features a roughhewn surface, a material that has nothing delicate or dainty about it, to create a bold and unique statement,« explains the design team, adding: »For Spring/Summer 2013 we chose a more delicate material. Of course again fish, but this time with smaller scales and a softer texture. Salmon skin will be the protagonist of the coming season.« www.sethsobek.com

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RIGARDS — When it comes to eyewear that looks one-of-akind, it’s hard to argue with the appeal of horns – particularly when they’re as visually arresting as the ones from RIGARDS. Adapted from the French word »regard« (look, glance), RIGARDS is a mission to rediscover the hidden treasures of horn frames and to share them with eyewear aficionados through small numbered editions.

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November 2012

The emphasis is on handmade craftsmanship applied to simple products using honest materials. The designs are original and nonconformist yet respectful of vintage influences, intended for discerning folks with a solid sense of authenticity and independence. Each pair is painstakingly handcrafted by a single artisan from start to end, and finished with the trademark ›Sanjuro‚ surface treatment executed entirely by hand. Both European and Asian fits are offered to provide maximum comfort for different face shapes. There really is nothing out there remotely like RIGARDS frames.

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Many designer glasses are produced in their thousands, but RIGARDS’S are made in their ones. RIGARDS frames are constructed of horn, a sustainable natural material that is lightweight, biocompatible (its low likelihood to cause irritation is worth mentioning), and beautiful to look at. The horns used are an organic by-product of water buffalo rearing on small African farms and reflect RIGARDS’S desire to make recycling a part of our culture. Handpicked for their color, grain and thickness, each piece of horn is meticulously paired with the design that best accentuates the inherent traits of the horn. www.rigards.com

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November 2012

c onne c t e d t o f a s h i on

SUPERIOR ONLINE December 2012 ‘Looking back – looking forward’ SUBMIT NOW follow us on

or visit our  website

Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography -31-

www.SUPERIOR-MAG.com


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this is it

photography by  Sven-Anton SvenSson styling by  Cliff Hoppus @ Anderson Hopkins and Lana Lay Jackey make-up by   Hector Simancas @Factory Downtown hair by   Tamas Tuzes @ L'atelier model   Rachele Schank @ Women-Direct

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November 2012

j a c k e t   ric h ar d c h ai b l o u s e   os k len s k i r t   C y n t h ia R o w le y p a n t s   ric h ar d c h ai b r a c e l e t   A le x is Bi t t ar n e c k l a c e   A le x is Bi t t ar s h o e s   A le j an d ro I ngelmo

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b l o u s e   N e w Yor k Vin t age shirt  h&m p a n t s   h & m n e c k l a c e   A le x is Bi t t ar b r a c e l e t s   A le x is Bi t t ar r i n g   A le x is Bi t t ar s h o e s   L ou b ou t iin


November 2012

sweater  h&m s k i r t   v in t age n e c k l a c e   A le x is Bi t t ar b r a c e l e t s   A le x is Bi t t ar

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j a c k e t   N e w Yor k Vin t age skirt  h&m t i g h t s   w ol f or d e a r r i n g s   ne w y or k v in t age b r a c e l e t   G emma S imone

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November 2012

j u m p s u i t   j osep h j a c k e t   ne w y or k v in t age shirt  h&m g l a s s e s   prism b r a c e l e t s   ale x is b i t t ar

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c o a t   R alp h L auren s h i r t   S t i j lus n e c k l a c e   A le x is Bi t t ar b r a c e l e t s   A le x is Bi t t ar e a r r i n g s   M ic h ael S piri t o


November 2012

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j a c k e t   N e w Yor k Vin t age s h i r t   ric h ar d c h ai p a n t s   ric h ar d c h ai s h o e s   j osep h b r a c e l e t s   M ic h ael S piri t o e a r r i n g   M ic h ael S piri t o

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November 2012

j u m p s u i t   C y n t h ia R o w le y b e l t   N e w Yor k Vin t age e a r r i n g s   N e w Yor k Vin t age b r a c e l e t   G emma S imone

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d r e s s   S t i j lus s h i r t   N e w Yor k Vin t age n e c k l a c e   L ollesselliani b r a c e l e t   M ic h ael S piri t o


November 2012

Fashion magazines? We’ve got a million free ones. Issuu.com

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VITA photography by  Jennifer endom styling by  Natasha Maidment and Jenny Kennedy make-up by   Yuka Hirata using mac hair by   John Mullan @ Stone Hair hair assistant   Jack Kong model   Vita @ Select model Management

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November 2012

d r e s s   C raig L a w rence n e c k p i e c e   P aul S e v ille b e l t   P aul S e v ille

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d r e s s   Kim Wes t c o a t   A s h le y I sa h m g l o v e s   S t ep h A man s o c k s   Fal k e s h o e s   P h oe b e E nglis h

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September 2012

b r a   House O f Harlo t s h i r t   House O f Harlo t n e c k p i e c e   E lsa S mi t h

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t o p   M ar t ina S pe t lo v a c o l l a r   S t y lis t s o w n

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November 2012

t o p   Dolce & G a b b anna s h i r t   P h oe b e E nglis h b e l t   P aul S e v ille

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d r e s s   P h oe b e E nglis h b r a   M y la c o l l a r s   E lsa S mi t h an d P h ilip L im k n i c k e r s   M y la s o c k s   Fal k e s h o e s   P h oe b e E nglis h

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November 2012

d r e s s   P h oe b e E nglis h b r a   M y la c o l l a r   P h ilip L im

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Wanderlust photography by  Lauretta Suter styling by  Yvonne Wigger hair & make-up by   Tina Saljanin model   Naida@Visage

s l e e v e l e s s c o a t   v in t age jacket  h&m blouse  h&m s k i r t   A merican A pparel s h o e s   U r b an O u t f i t t ers

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November 2012

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s l e e v e l e s s c o a t   v in t age jacket  h&m blouse  h&m s k i r t   A merican A pparel s h o e s   U r b an O u t f i t t ers

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November 2012

s k i r t   mango s w e a t e r   s t y lis t ´ s o w n s h o e s   primar k f a k e f u r   v in t age

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sweater  h&m

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November 2012

s h i r t   repla y

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sweater  h&m d r e s s   Bers h k a s h o e s   U r b an O u t f i t t ers

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November 2012

s k i r t   mango s w e a t e r   s t y lis t ´ s o w n s h o e s   primar k f a k e f u r   v in t age

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November 2012

l e a t h e r j a c k e t   Bers h k a blouse  h&m p a n t s   A merican A pparel s h o e s   primar k

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c a t s u i t   marco h all c o a t   isse y mi y a k e

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November 2012

look at me now photography by  keith major styling by  jay johnson make-up by   suzana hallili for make up forever make-up by   elin nyberg model   hana nitsche s h i r t@   repla ONE.1 y

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e y e w e a r   Balenciaga n e c k l a c e   f en t on l a c e b l o u s e   marco h all collec t ion j a c k e t & p a n t s   isse y mi y a k e b o o t i e   cesare pacio t t i

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November 2012

c o a t   marco h all lace leggings  m.h g l a d i a t o r p u m p   b rian a t w oo d

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r i n g   f en t on collec t ion s e q u i n r u f f l e b l o u s e   marco h all collec t ion m i c r o h a r e m p a n t s   marco h all collec t ion b o o t s   cesare pacio t t i

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c a t s u i t   marco h all g l a d i a t o r p u m p s   b rian a t w oo d

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b l a c k j a c k e t   y v es sain t lauren t

s h i r t   g s t ar

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November 2012

c a t s u i t   marco h all c o a t   isse y mi y a k e g l a d i a t o r p u m p s   b rian a t w oo d

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s h e a r d r e s s   lie sang b ong

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November 2012

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b l o u s e   m . h c olle c t ion l e a t h e r s k i r t   d ior

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November 2012

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untitled (AT THE BREAKFASTBAR OF EVERY OPEN SOUL), 2009

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November 2012

ROLAND SCHAPPERT # The artist ROLAND SCHAPPERT works directly with language, translations, tipping points and the identifications of meaning. The viewer becomes a reader, who exposes himself to various experiential possibilities. He is not only an integral part of the artwork, but is also constantly challenged to make his own decisions. It is thus important for the artist that the recipient finds himself in a state of constant movement, both physically and intellectually. Schappert's lightreflecting metal paintings and canvases, which reveal more or less information depending the viewer’s physical standpoint, create a kind of matrix in space. The exhibition can thus also be understood as a site-specific installation, or as a visual text or even an open stage play, albeit without any form of linearity and freed of any predetermined story line.

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untitled (TIME SHARES HEALS), 2012

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November 2012

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untitled (IRIDESCENT HEART LESS), 2010

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November 2012

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untitled (PRE BELOVE), 2011

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November 2012

untitled (PAST), 2011

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untitled (WE HOLD THESE TRUTHS TO BE SELFEVIDENT …), 2011

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November 2012

# With this open relationship between image and language, the artist also addresses not least of all the question of the possibility of communication within art in direct connection with forms of communication found in everyday life, especially with regard to questions of values and belief. ›YOU CAN TRUST ME / I KISS ONLY SINGLES AND REMAIN WITH YOU‹ is, for example, the title of one painting, which is barely legible at first sight. In the words of the artist: »My work is not based on the belief that a well intended genuflection to the remains and heroes of the Modern Era could result today in an adequate form of communication, which would somehow be capable of capturing the feelings and interests of the present age. Instead, it should be questioned whether every relationship and every statement is not actually only an alibi – for quick recognition, image building and apparent security. What remains, without trying to be hopelessly romantic, is a great sense of trust – trust that we do indeed intend to seriously question our own feelings and opinions, as well as the small bit of longing for that one thing that will hold it all together.« Text by GÉRARD A. GOODROW

INTERVIEW

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untitled (AT THE END OF THE DAY NOBODY IS INTERESTED IN THE MEANING OF WHAT IS SAID), 2012

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November 2012

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between the light and shadow photography by  kay smith styling by  gilles clarisse make-up by   emmanuelle monblance hair by   davy evano model   Senta @ conmia

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November 2012

j a c k e t   zara t o p   d ior p a n t s   amercian apparel b e l t   zara e a r r i n g s   lena k la x n e c k l a c e   lena k la x bracelets  h&M

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c o a t   all sain t s b r a   all sain t s t r o u s e r s   zara earrings  h&m n e c k l a c e   lena k la x b r a c e l e t s   lena k la x , mango , x a v ier d elecour t r i n g s   v in t age

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November 2012

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s w e a t e r   all sain t s s h o r t s   monopri x p a n t s   monopri x earrings  h&m b r a c e l e t s   slic k i t up


ONLINE c o a t   all sain t s b r a   all sain t s t r o u s e r s   zara earrings  h&m n e c k l a c e   lena k la x b r a c e l e t s   lena k la x , mango , x a v ier d elecour t r i n g s   v in t age

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November 2012

t o p   all sain t s b r a   all sain t s s h o r t   ma j e g l o v e s   v in t age b r a c e l e t s   h erm é s , slic k i t up , h & m earrings  h&m necklace  h&m

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s w e a t e r   all sain t s s h o r t s   monopri x p a n t s   monopri x earrings  h&m b r a c e l e t s   slic k i t up

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November 2012

s h o r t s   ma j e b r a c e l e t s   lena k la x , monopri x n e c k l a c e   lena k la x

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c o a t   all sain t s b r a   all sain t s t r o u s e r s   zara earrings  h&m n e c k l a c e   lena k la x b r a c e l e t s   lena k la x , mango , x a v ier d elecour t r i n g s   v in t age

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November 2012

t o p   v in t age b r a   sa v an s k i r t   all sain t s b e l t   zara p a n t y s   monopri x g l o v e s   slic k i t up b r a c e l e t s   h & m , mango , monopri x earrings  h&m

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photography & production  Dustin Janko model  Waldemar @ M4Models

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November 2012

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sweater  h&m jacket  h&m t r o u s e r s   american apparel s c a r f   v in t age s h o e s   v ans

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November 2012

ö l j a c k e   mod - as s h i r t   cos trousers  h&m

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t o t a l l o o k   american apparell


November 2012

s h i r t   american apparell s h o r t s   w ee k d a y

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November 2012

t o t a l l o o k   w ee k d a y

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j a c k e t   v in t age ( su f f ol k h oc k e y ) s h i r t   cos s w e a t e r   cos c a p   s t ar t er

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November 2012

cap  h&m s h o r t s   w ee k d a y

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the shades

photography by  julia kiecksee photo-assistant  katy hundertmark styling by  irina skladkowski @ phoenix hair & make-up by   ines schult hair & make-up assistant  dennis brandt model   stefani s. @ modelwerk

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November 2012

n e c k l a c e   sa b rina d e h o f f

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b l o u s e   k a v iar gauc h e m a s k   innersanc t um

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November 2012

s e t   lasci v ious b o n d a g e   k i k i d e mon t parnasse / s t y le b op b o o t s   b ur b E urr y

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j u m p s u i t e   d amaris g l a s s e s   f r ä ulein k in k

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November 2012

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d r e s s   la perla c o r s e t   t om t O c r o p   rei t b e d ar f b r a c e l e t   e d d ie b orgo / s t y le b op b o o t s   b ur b E urr y

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November 2012

b o d y s e t   para h g l o v e s   nina pe t er c r o p   s w aro v s k i / b ou t i q ue b izarre s o c k s f al k e

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b r a   b lus h p a n t y   w ol f or d r i n g   ale x is b i t t ar / s t y le b op a c a p u l c o c h a i r   d ecorazioni


November 2012

t o p   t R È S b on j O U R g l o v e s   t R r on j O U R s k i r t   j i t rois / s t y le b op c h o k e r   ero t ica / b ou t i q ue b izarre b a g   j il san d er

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v e s t   h ugo h a r n e s s   innersanc t um

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November 2012

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s e t   c h anelle t h omas c h o c k e r   d os san t os / b ou t i q ue b izarre b r a c e l e t   h ermes o v e r k n e e s   innersanc t um h e e l s   Y v es sain t lauren t


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#  B r a n d s 3.1 Phillip Lim Alejandro Ingelmo Alexis Bittar All Saints American Apparel Ashley Isham Balenciaga Bershka Blush Boutique Bizarre Brian Atwood Burberry Cesare Paciotti Christian Louboutin COS Craig Lawrence Cynthia Rowley Damaris Decorazioni Dior

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Eddie Borgo Elsa Smith Falke Fendi Fenton Fräulein Kink Gemma Simone H&M Hermès House of Harlot Hugo Boss Inner Sanctum Issey Miyake Jil Sander Jitrois Josep


November 2012

Kaviar Gauche Kiki de Montparnasse Kim West La Perla Lascivious Lenaklax Lie Sang Bong Maje Mango Manolo Blahnik Martina Spetlova Michael Spirito Monoprix Myla New York Vintage Nina Peter Osklen

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Parah Paul Seville Phoebe English Primark Prism Ralph Lauren Richard Chai Sabrina Dehoff Slick It Up Starter Steph Aman Stijlus Swarovski Topshop Très Bonjour Urban Outfitters Vans Weekday Wolford Yves Saint Laurent Zara


ONLINE

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Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

November 2012

Looking back – looking forward

# December 2012

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ONLINE

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November 2012

B ER LI N E 4 – 6 I 10 9 6 3 S S A TR S ER Com LU C K EN WA LD H I @ f9 5 S To R E. I 8 5 3 3 8 0 2 +4 9 ( 0 ) 3 0 4 R E. C o m W W W.f 9 5 S To RS m. o P EN IN G H o U AY 11 A .m . – 8 P. ID fR – AY D moN . m A .m . – 6 P. S AT U R D AY 11 -123-


Magazine for young vanguard fashion & art photography • www.superior-mag.com

Looking back – looking forward

coming out on december 14th 2012

# DECEMBER 2012


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