2005 Southwest USA

The Southwest May 1-15, 2005

The Southwest

From May 1 to May 15, 2005 Jake and I traveled over 3200 miles from Denver, exploring five states and nine National Parks and Sites. Over the course of our journey, we were struck by the beauty and diversity of this country. While we've loved our trips to other parts of the world, we renewed our appreciation for our own United States.

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Sunday, May 1 Up at 5:30 to complete packing and finish last minute details. Blue Line to Terminal 1. Almost dropped laptop going through security; lessons learned for next time. Easy flight, arriving at 11:00. Picked up Hertz rental car, a bright blue new Mazda 6 with a spoiler and only 500 miles on it. Drove 25 miles into town and checked into the grand old Brown Palace Hotel. When we arrived, teatime was in high gear; every place was taken. A group of red-hatted women were enjoying tea and tiny sandwiches and pastries. Opted instead for sandwiches and a couple of beers at the hotel bar. Walked a few blocks to the plaza at the gold-domed state capitol building. After a couple of futile attempts, found the Denver Art Museum (motto: “Dam, that’s art!”) Saw a small but appealing exhibit of Amish quilts from Pennsylvania, Indiana and Ohio and picked out the one we’d like to take out under our coats. Asian antiquities floor was particularly notable: treasures from India, Pakistan, Cambodia and their neighbors—we wished we had more time. On the next floor, one painting stood out: a classically painted toga-clad man with cherubic figures of curly-haired children climbing all over him; one bare foot on a stack of old books, the other on a soccer ball. The expression on his face, a mixture of bemusement, fear and awe. The title: Fatherhood by Walter Hempel (1997). At 5:00 we met Betty Culwell and Emzy for dinner at Imperial Palace. George and Emzy talked photography and Betty and I caught up and shared old times.

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Monday, May 2 Breakfast at the hotel as part of our Tranquility Package. Plowed through thick fog for 25 miles to I-70 heading west to Central City. Jake spent a college summer there, leading jeep tours and ushering at the Opera House. The town was just waking up from its winter sleep; few people were about other than laborers and construction men. A drippy, gray day and the streets were slushy and muddy. Shells of the original mining-town buildings remain but most of the interiors have been refitted for low-stakes gambling. Entered the Teller House Hotel in all of its faded Victorian glory and Jake took showed me the bar with its soulful female face on the barroom floor, painted in 1936 after the 1899 poem. I tried to pose Jake for a photo in front of the Opera House like the one taken of him that summer. Left Central City on “O my gawd” Road: windy, unpaved, narrow way into Idaho Springs were we picked up the interstate again.

(Jake refrained from sharing this nick-name until too late to turn back.) Drove over Loveland Pass, through the Eisenhower Tunnel to Vail. Stayed just long enough to get a sense of the place but lots of pre-season construction going on everywhere.

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On to Aspen by 2:30. Drove through town to get our bearings before checking into the historic Hotel Jerome. Walked the streets window-shopping. Bought a wind jacket at Aspen Sports. More importantly, Jake found the stone that had fallen out of my Burne-Jones ring on the floor of the shop. A couple of beers at the hotel’s J-Bar, long-time Aspen watering hole. All-you-caneat rib dinner later at Little Annie’s, an oilskin tablecloth and lots of napkins kind of place.

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Tuesday, May 3 Coffee and a muffin and on our way to Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. Independence Pass still closed for winter so proceeded by more westerly route. Thankful that the weather, though not sunny, was dry. Drove three miles or so along the canyon ridge, stopping several times to peer over at the views.

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Then southwest to Telluride, arriving in town by early afternoon. Again, drove through each street in town to get an overview. Checked into a huge room with fireplace, configured for family use and skiing, at the Camel’s Garden Hotel. As we went out to walk the streets, rain cut our walk short; returned to the hotel to get the car. Up to Mountain Village to see the extensive resort and the large homes perched above the town of Telluride. The rain turned to snow at the higher altitude as we drove past clumps of aspen trees bathed in the soft evening light. Dinner back in town at Excelsior—cozy, trendy, Italian.

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Wednesday, May 4 Awoke to an inch of snow coating the branches outside our window; somewhat concerned as to whether we could take the Highway 550, the “Million Dollar Highway” over the San Juan Mountains from Ouray to Durango. Jake was anxious to show me the dramatic scenery. Made inquiries and learned the pass, though wet, was open. Our concerns were unwarranted--we were blessed with blue skies and no rain in sight. An amazing road of precipitous drops and breathtaking scenery as we climbed up to Red Mountain Pass at an elevation of over 11,000 feet.

Arriving in the old mining town of Silverton, we pulled off for a late breakfast at the Chattanooga Café, a sleepy little diner boasting fresh homemade pies. The town looked much as it must have in the 1930s: two roads, one unpaved, lined with single-storied Victorian-styled buildings, a few trucks parked outside. Silverton’s main attraction today is as the destination of a narrow-gauge railway that runs in the summer months from Durango. We continued to Durango ourselves, arriving around noon and taking a half hour to drive along its historic Main Street, noting the old Stratler Hotel.

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Continued on US 160 to Mesa Verde National Park (the only American National Park that protects man-made structures) arriving at the main gate at 1:30. Tour of Cliff Palace, the largest cluster of ancestral Pueblo buildings in the park, with 200 rooms, including towers, houses and circular kavas (ceremonial gathering places). Descended several flights of stairs (some carved into the rock) and returned up several ladders that appeared more challenging than they actually were. Sky was a brilliant blue and the ancient city glowed golden.

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Drove the final three hours to Moab and arrived at the Sunflower Hill Inn a little after 7:00. Inn was kitschy but the innkeeper was welcoming and our room was comfortable. Margueritas and Baja dinner at Miguels’ on the Main Street.

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Thursday, May 5 Nice breakfast at the Inn: perfect scones, a southwestern-style egg casserole, chorizo sausage, fresh berries and melon. Three miles to Arches National Park. Spent three hours driving through, stopping to photograph Courthouse, Fiery Furnace, Windows, and south view of Delicate Arch. I followed the uphill trail to the north view of Delicate Arch, but the view was still disappointing. Wish we’d had the time to take the 1.5 mile hike to the arch itself; the view from the base is iconic, even appearing on the Utah license plate. Weather cooperated again, with only an occasional drop of rain. Brilliant sun would have been great, but the flat light made photographing the beautiful flowers along the way easier.

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From Arches, we drove Highway 128 along the Colorado River, passing sheer red sandstone cliffs descending to the river, sometimes on both sides. We picked up I-70 for 50 miles or so, then northwest to Spanish Fork, where we passed desolate, arid flatlands dotted with sagebrush before descending through the foothills of the Wasatch Mountains. Continued north through Provo (BYU country) to the historic mining town of Park City.

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Found the Washington School Inn in the historic “Highway to Heaven” district of the town. Charming! Built in 1889, it was a threeroom schoolhouse with a bell tower. It survived the great fire of 1898 and was restored in the 1980s as an inn. Bell in the tower is intact and the business office door is etched “Principal”. Rooms are named after teachers: we stayed in Miss Jennings’ room. Met Hillary, Gillian and Sue at Chimayo on Main Street for dinner. A cozy booth and creative food made for a very pleasant evening.

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Friday, May 6 Graduation Day. Breakfast at the inn before we took the car out to take an early look at the town of Park City, driving up to nearby Deer Valley Resort. While Jake met Hillary for lunch, I went back to the inn for a nap before the festivities. At 2:00 we met Hillary, Gillian and Sue and drove together to Salt Lake in a pounding rain. The storm subsided just as we parked at the University and made our way to the Eccles Business School Quad for a pre-graduation reception. Walked to the sports arena for the ceremony. Sat patiently through two hours of speeches and reading of names before the awarding of hoods to the seven PhD candidates, including our own Dr. Hillary Leonard. Drove through the campus and past Fort Douglas where Em once lived before returning to Park City. A celebration dinner at the Cabin in the Grand Summit at Canyon Resort.

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Saturday, May 5 Retraced our route from Park City to Heber and Provo, picking up I-15 for 100 miles, exiting at US 50 towards Salina. On a whim, we detoured nine miles to Richfield, where Em spent her senior year and graduated from Richfield High School in 1940. After asking a sheriff for directions, found the 1913 Carnegie Public Library and inquired there about the high school. Only the steps remained of the old building, leading now to a green field. We photographed it for her before retracing our way back to Utah 24, heading towards Torrey. Drove through bleak high plateau country with snow-capped mountain backdrops, dodging intermittent but persistent rain. Lunch at Capitol Reef Inn in Torrey--fresh salads but inattentive service.

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Only a few miles to Capitol Reef National Park.

Photographed the views at Goosenecks and petroglyphs on the massive sheared rocks. Retracing our route to Torrey, we picked up Utah 12 through Dixie National Forest, ascending to an altitude of more than 9,000 feet and passing amazing vistas of mountains, plateaus and valleys, until we reached Boulder. Before checking into the Boulder Mountain Inn, visited a gift shop and purchased Navaho jewelry and a pot by Brigitte Delthony, a potter who creates her art using the same primitive techniques as the ancient Indians. Inn was delightful place: very rustic, the sound of cattle mooing in the distance, our room large and comfortable. A dip in the hot tub before dinner at the Hell’s Backbone Grill. Phenomenal organic vegetables and creative recipes. I had Cowboy Meatloaf and Jake had a Pot Roast. For dessert, I had a divine lemon chiffon cake and Jake had rhubarb strawberry compote. We bought the cookbook and asked the owner to sign it for us.

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Sunday, May 8 Woke up to a brilliant sky, the clearest day yet. Lovely breakfast back at the Hell’s Backbone Grill. I was treated to a special Mother’s Day scone in addition to my generous portion of French toast. Continuing on Utah 12, we commenced the “Hogback” portion, heralded by a sign that said, “Take a deep breath— the next 29 miles are like driving on a tightrope.” And indeed that was the sensation as the earth dropped away on both sides and the road seemed to be suspended in air. The route curved and rose and switched back and descended; Jake drove like a pro.

We were past the excitement when we entered the town of Escalante. We looked for the home of the potter Brigitte Delthony for we were interested to see more of her work. Found the sign with no problem, pulling off the road and down a dirt path where we were met by the smiling artist and her two dogs. She introduced us to husband David who creates beautiful wood furniture sculptures. They showed us into their studios where we spent a pleasant hour. We eventually decided on three pots that we hoped would be compatible with our preColumbian textiles. Although Bryce Canyon National Park was cloudy as we entered, the sun obligingly came out just enough for us to enjoy breathtaking vistas of the Hoodoo Amphitheater. Took the Scenic Drive all the way to Rainbow Point but found the initial scenes at Sunset and Inspiration Point most impressive.

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On to Zion National Park in progressively improving weather. Accessed the main scenic valley through a long tunnel and a series of switchbacks, descending over 2000 feet. Discovered that the only way to make the scenic drive along the Virgin River was by shuttle bus—a 45-minute ride to Sinawava where we took the shady mile-long walk along the river, taking pictures whenever the sun came out. Returned to the Visitor’s Center just as it was closing and redeemed the car. Desert Pearl Inn was in Springdale, just outside the park gate. The evening was warm and pleasant as we enjoyed beer and Mexican food on the patio of the Bit and Spur Saloon.

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Monday, May 9 Stopped at an organic market for breakfast snacks in Springdale before the 150 mile drive to Las Vegas.

Checked into the new Wynn Hotel at 1:00 PM behind a young man who had “666” tattooed on the back of his neck and implanted horns on his forehead.

Dropped our bags off in our attractive 59th floor room: HDTVs embedded in bedroom and bathroom walls, high-quality bedding, automatic drapery draws, gorgeous bath. Walked the Strip, trying to photograph the Disneyesque architecture— including a Grand Canal, Eiffel Tower and Arch de Triomphe. Stopped to explore the Venetian and Bellagio. Wine, salad and bread at Mon Ami Gabi at the Paris Hotel. Won a nickel at Bally’s slots. Monorail to MGM Grande.

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A bride and groom exited the Forever Grand Wedding Chapel and posed for Jake to photograph them.

Drinks in one of the bars off the casino; the wellendowed waitress took a 50% tip. At 7:30, entered a massive theater for the Cirque du Soleil $165M show, KA’. Absolutely stunning: extraordinary acrobatics, dazzling pyrotechnics, haunting music. More photographs on our way back, trying to capture the night lights. Explored the Esplanade shops of the Wynn: Chanel, Vitton, Gautier and more. A bath in the giant tub before bed.

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Tuesday, May 10 Hard to get up, but managed to get away by 7:30. Stopped in Boulder City for a great breakfast at a ma and pa diner. Headed back east, passing over Hoover Dam and along Lake Mead, noting the Art Deco inspired buildings. Much construction evident as new road is built to divert traffic from traversing the dam.

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Drove into Arizona, through Navajo and Hopi reservations: vast, arid plains and abject poverty painfully evident. Stopped at Cameron Trading Post and marveled at beautiful antique Indian textiles, jewelry and baskets. Passed the three Hopi mesas, stopping briefly at the small Hopi Museum at Second Mesa. Lots of wind and pink dust blowing across the highway. North to Chinle for the night after a long day on the road. Slooow check-in. Dinner at Garcia Trading Post: no alcohol, poor food, and enthusiastic but inept service.

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Wednesday, May 11 Beautiful morning! Clear sky and 65 degrees.

Entrance to Canyon de Chelly only half a mile from the hotel. Took the south rim road, accessing the view of the ruins of the White House, dating from about 1200; disappointed that the house and sheer cliff above it were in shadow. Due to time constraints, we decided not to take the two-hour hike to the ruins.

Drove to end of the rim road to Spider Rocks, twin 800-foot towers of rock isolated from the canyon walls and holding spiritual significance for the Navajo.

A group of Navajo schoolchildren were there, their teacher explaining the site’s meaning for them.

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Stopped at Hubbell Trading Post, a National Historic Site purchased by John Hubbell in 1898 and the oldest continuously operating trading post in the Navajo Nation. Interesting slice of life, combining a tourist shopping Mecca with a source of supplies for the Navajo people.

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Two hours pursuing an indirect route the last 20 miles of which were on unpaved roads, brought us to Chaco Culture National Historical Park. The ruins, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were a major center of ancestral Puebloan culture from AD 850 to 1250. Spent a magical couple of hours walking the petraglyph trail from the ruins of Chetro Ketl to Pueblo Bonito and exploring the amazing warren of rooms and kivas and photographing the intricate masonry.

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Left for Santa Fe at about 4:30 but a wrong turn at an unmarked branch of the road took us 30 miles out of the way on a deeply rutted, unpaved washboard road. Just when we thought we might be asking for a bed at Pueblo Pintuba (not on our map) we came upon New Mexico Highway 9 again.

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Passed pretty scenery on our way into Santa Fe: interesting rock formations, pine trees and rolling green fields. Arrived after 8:00 PM at the Inn of the Anasazi, a well-known hotel located only a half block from the Plaza. The hotel features warm Southwestern décor and architecture. Walked past some alluring shops; dinner at Coyote Café at the chef’s bar. Great SW cuisine and fun watching the preparations. Brandy at our hotel’s bar and a collapse into bed.

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Thursday, May 12 No wonder Santa Fe is noted for its weather! A glorious day: perfect temperature and brilliant sun. Breakfast (almost late enough for lunch) at Café Pasquales; ate at the communal table. Great atmosphere and the food good although we ordered the wrong things. Walked to William Siegal Gallery and spent more than an hour looking at his collection of Nasca textiles and ethnographic sculptures and baskets. Left considering several things. Visited the Museum of Fine Arts and the Palace of the Governors (whose construction commenced in 1610), and after retrieving the car, drove to Museum Hill to see the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, the Museum of Indian Arts & Culture, and the Museum of International Folk Art.

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Friday, May 13 Hotel staff advised last night that today’s weather was to be partly cloudy. The day was again brilliant, but we did locate a small cloud off in the distance-Santa Fe’s idea of a cloudy day? Croissant and latte at Café de Paris down Burro Alley. Met Billy Siegal at his gallery where we purchased a Han Dynasty standing tomb figure and a Wari (Huari) pile hat.

Toured the Georgia O’Keefe Museum and the newly opened O’Keefe/Warhol flower exhibit. Lunch outdoors at the O’Keefe Café; joined by Billy.

Continued pleasant conversation about his background and gallery. Visited Saint Frances Cathedral (with Archbishop Lamy sculpture in front) and Loretto Chapel (with its miraculous hanging staircase).

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Walked up Canyon Road, visiting several galleries recommended by Billy Siegal, including the Tai Gallery where we purchased a bamboo basket with a beautiful patina made by a renowned Japanese artist about 60 years ago. Also purchased an extraordinary book on Japanese bamboo baskets. Nice walk to dinner. On the way, passed the memorial obelisk in the center of the Plaza and noticed that a portion of an inscription had been crudely removed: “To the Heroes who have fallen in the various battles with XXXXX Indians in the territory of New Mexico.” We subsequently confirmed, as we suspected, that the excised word was “savage.”

Arrived at the busy Aqua Santa restaurant, another recommendation of Billy populated exclusively by locals. Enjoyed zinfandel, salads and house-made bread outside, followed by dinner in the cozy, crowded dining room.

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Saturday, May 15 Only 65 miles to go today so afforded a leisurely start. Latte and a Mexican Wedding cookie at a coffee shop on the Plaza. Nutritionally questionable but fabulous. Stepped through the hour-wait-forbreakfast crowd to pick up a cookbook from Pasqual’s. Found a pretty outfit at Zypher’s before departing Santa Fe. Drove the High Road to Taos, passing through the red sandstone hills of the Nambe Pueblo Indian Reservation and the Carson National Forest. Stopped to visit the Sanctuario de Chimayo, a church built in 1816 and known for its sacred healing earth. Arrived just as Mass was ending and the little old padre was greeting his communicants, several of whom were on crutches or walkers. As we entered the church, noticed the naïve, colorful altar screen and carved figures of Christ and St. James. Entered the side chapel, bending down to pass through the low doorway; I took a sample of the sacred soil. Crosses, pictures of Christ and the Virgin, letters of supplication lined the walls. A group of crutches leaned against a corner. As we left, noticed more crude crosses woven into the chain link fence and several outdoor altars.

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Just a few miles up the road brought us to the Church of San Francisco de Asis in Rancho de Taos, famous for the almost sensuous lines of its exterior, a favorite subject for photographers since the days of Stieglitz, Paul Strand and Ansel Adams.

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Arriving in Taos, were struck by its almost seedy appearance in contrast to Santa Fe. Drove around the Plaza and through town before checking into the Casa de las Chimineas. Down a dead-end street, it was hard to spot at first. Charming innkeeper showed us to the Garden Room—typical Southwestern décor, very attractive. After poking around several shops, returned to the inn for a delicious Mexican buffet. The included dinner and breakfast made our stay a relative bargain. Pleasant conversation at communal table, then off to our room. The sound of rain on the roof that night.

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Sunday, May 15 A wonderful Southwest-style breakfast and on our way, taking US 64 to I-25, passing through Pueblo, which we were surprised was so large. The interstate also took us past Colorado Springs, where we spotted the Air Force Academy nestled in the distant foothills. A nice but pricy toll way skirted Denver and delivered us at the airport where we had time to have a hamburger before boarding our flight for home.

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