2008 Mexico & Guatemala 1

2008 Mexico and Guatemala 1

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip to Mexico and Guatemala from March 5-17, 2008. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2008.

Cover: San Jeronimo Convent, Tlacochahuaya

Mexico & Guatemala March 5-April 1, 2008

Archeology and ethnography came together on our trip to Mexico and Guatemala. The famous Museo Nacional de Antropologia in Mexico City proved a perfect introduction. On the archeology floor we saw masterworks and reproductions from the major Mayan sites we would be visiting, including the Royal Tomb from Palenque, the murals of Bonampak, and the Templo de Quetzalcoatl from Teotihuacån. Upstairs we learned more about the indigenous peoples whose customs and rituals we would be experiencing, from the furtive Lacandons to the colorful Tzotzils. With this introduction, we traveled to Oaxaca and San Cristobal in Mexico, Antigua and Tikal in Guatemala, and Copan in Honduras. We visited the major Mayan sites and many lesser ones. We observed Semana Santa in Antigua and visited the Easter Market in Chichicastenango. We tasted chapulines and escamoles and had our share of margaritas. We traveled in all manner of vehicles from bicycle taxis to luxury buses. And we brought home a renewed respect for Central America’s rich and powerful past and its colorful and diverse present.

Volume 1 March 5-15

Wednesday, March 5 to Mexico City Up at 4:00 to catch the Blue Line to O’Hare. This will be the first of many

Art Deco monument, it was built in 1952 in recognition of the young military

early mornings on this trip, I fear. The empty terminal and no line for security

cadets who died defending the castle from American invaders in 1847.

felt surreal. At 8:30 took off on Aero Mexico 683 to Mexico City. Although

Formed several first impressions as we walked along: lots of PDA, food

had window and center seats—not our favorites—they did enable a view

vendors selling colorful indefinable snacks, sidewalks where you have to

coming in directly over this city of 18 million. Taxied to the new international

watch every step, downscale buildings next to new architecture, strong police

terminal at Benito Juarez that only opened two months ago. Cleared

presence. Back for a rest before dinner. Tried the computer in the business

customs, found an ATM and bought tickets for taxi sitio in the terminal—the

office; no wonder I had problems typing the @ sign—it’s ALT GR + 2—can’t

safest way to take a taxi, we are told. A van took us to the northern Roma

imagine how that was determined. Walked six blocks to Fonda el Refugio on

section of the city and La Casona Hotel Relais—sort of quirky. Our room is

Liverpool Street for our 8:30 dinner reservations. The restaurant was just

off a little patio and shielded from the hallway only by shear curtains. Getting

starting to fill up when we got there— cozy atmosphere with white-washed

undressed this evening will be interesting. Nice bath but little storage space.

walls and old copper utensils—lots of Americans. Good margaritas in rough

Left hotel around 3:00 and walked to the Paseo de la Reforma and west to

little glass cups. Pork dishes with sauces—green mole and spinach. Sweet

Bosque de Chapultepec, an historical forest of ancient trees with an 18th

Mexican coffee with cinnamon and cloves to finish the meal. Pleasant walk

century Castillo hovering above. On through the iron lion’s gate and along

back, passing street-side food vendors frying meats and potatoes that smelled

the wide flag-lined promenade to the Monumento a los Ninos Heroes. An

wonderful. Bed by 10:30.

Thursday, March 6 Mexico City Wow, what a day. I’m not sure we will ever recover. Alarm at 6:00 and light breakfast at the hotel. Driver took us at 8:30 to the Zocalo in the Centro historic district, dropping us off in front of the Catedral Metropolitana on the north side. Begun in 1524 by order of Cortes, the present cathedral was completed in 1813. Entered quietly and finding mass in progress, Jake recorded the singing as we gazed at the golden altarpiece in one of the chapels. Walked on to the Palacio Nacional to see the murals of Diego Rivera (1886-1957) that filled the massive staircase area and the entire second level, depicting the stages of Mexico’s historic struggle within the framework of his own ideology.

Followed the Calle Zapata to the Museum of Jose Cuevas, located in what was once a convent. Saw works by this painter, engraver and sculptor, including erotic works in a special salon. Further down Zapata to Templo de la Santisima, noting along the way that the street was several feet higher than the entrance to the church, probably as a result of being built on a lake bed.

Unfortunately, the beautiful Baroque façade was in shadow so photography was disappointing. The interior was a mass of cracks and uneven walls, giving further evidence to the foundation’s settling. Returned to the Zocalo by a more southern street, passing numerous dilapidated structures nestled next to restored colonial buildings. Narrow sidewalks were rendered even more constricted by vendors who had set up stalls along the way, selling CDs, clothing, and assorted curios. Continuing south, passed the Suprema Corte de Justicia and entered the Museo de la Ciudad de Mexico, housed in a lovely two-story house, which we found disappointing as many exhibits were closed.

Turning west, passed the Hospital de Jesus Nazareno, oldest in the western hemisphere. Briefly entered the adjacent church to see the Orozco mural of the horrors of war on the ceiling. Outside the church, a group of women sat on the steps knitting and crocheting. Examples of their work were displayed on a piece of cardboard leaning against the wall. Further on we came upon a small, tranquil plaza with jacaranda trees framing two churches dedicated to St. Philip Neri. One had a graceful bell tower and the other, a lacelike façade. We

entered one to discover that it was now a library. Our walk took us down a street of electronic shops—stereo, computers, and phones. Bought a SIM card for our phone at a Telcel shop. Then north towards the Zocalo again, passing the stately residence of Casa de los Condes de San Mateo.

Entered the Gran Hotel de la Ciudad de Mexico on the southeast corner of the Plaza de la Constitucion, completed in 1899 as a commercial center. Gazed at its lovely Art Nouveau glass ceiling as we waited for the restaurant to open at 1:30. Sat out on the upper balcony overlooking the Zocalo and the cathedral where we ordered Modelos and tacos.

Metropolitan Cathedral

Somewhat refreshed, we visited Templo Mayor and its accompanying museum. Only discovered in 1978, this archeological site contains remarkable artifacts, most impressive of which is the Coyolxauhqui, a beautifully-carved monolith that is ten feet in diameter and weighs eight tons. It tells the story of the moon goddess in elegant detail.

Coyolxauhqui

Dragging by now, we nonetheless carried on, entering the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso where we saw the heavily characterized murals by Jose Clemente Orozco. Murals by David Alfaro Siqueiros stand out on the staircase, including one depicting Cortes. Retraced our steps to see the highly ornate altarpiece at Templo de la Ensenanza . At the Secretaria de Educacion Publica we got just a taste of the almost one mile of Rivera murals that cover the walls of three floors—nearly 200 separate panels. Absolutely stunning; too bad we were so tired. Passed the Plaza de Santo Domingo and its church and the Antiguo Palacio de la Inquisicion across the street, only taking photos of their gracious exteriors. Down Tacuba, passing the Palacio de Mineria and the Museo Nacional de Arte and stepping into the grand Palacio Postal where we bought some stamps.

Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso

Templo de la Ensenanza

Heading towards the Palacio de Bellas Artes, ran into a huge demonstration of electrical workers marching down Avenida Juarez. Stopped to watch the peaceful proceedings: banners, giant balloon figures, trucks with bands playing.

Jake recorded shouts punctuated with firecrackers. Saw the beautiful blue tiles that cover the entire exterior of the Casa de los Azulejos. Entered the Bellas Artes building with its Art Deco interior and bought tickets to the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico for Sunday morning.

Palacio de Bellas Artes

Walked through the center of Alameda Central, starting at the Beethoven sculpture near the Bellas Artes. Along green paths, passing fountains, to the far end where groups of men played chess under the trees. Entered the Museo Mural Diego Rivera to see what is perhaps his greatest work, Dream of a Sunday Afternoon on the Alameda, completed in 1947. Comfortable upholstered chairs invited the visitor to rest and contemplate the details of this fascinating work where Rivera depicted himself as a young boy surrounded by countless figures from Mexican history. Eventually were able to cross the continuing labor march and found ourselves in front of the Juarez Metro. To save ourselves a very long walk even from there, we paid the 2/10 of a US cent to zoom blissfully back to our neighborhood. Crawled out, stopping just long enough to buy water before staggering back to the room where we soaked in the tub and collapsed for the night.

Friday, March 7 Mexico City Another early morning with the alarm set again for 6:00. At 7:30 our hired driver, Guillermo, picked us up and drove us to three sites short distances from the city. First was Teotihuacรกn, the most important city in Mesoamerica two thousand years ago. The early start was worth it when we arrived and saw that we had beaten the crowds. A cool breeze was blowing and the cloudless sky meant that we had perfect conditions in which to view the site. Starting at the southern end of Calzada de los Muertos, we walked the wide boulevard, climbing up and down a series of steps that marked various structures, passing the Piramide del Sol and continuing to the end of the road at the Piramide de la Luna. We climbed to the Palacio de Quetzalpapatotl for a view of the pyramid of the moon and explored its chambers and the relief sculptures on the columns. As we descended and walked back towards the sun temple, hordes of schoolchildren began to arrive, wearing uniforms and clearly delighted to be having a day out in the spring weather. Hawkers dotted the way, offering tee shirts, silver bangles, eagle whistles, and most popular of all, bows and lethal arrows with sharp points. The thought of eyes poked out made me cringe. We were disappointed that one of the most important buildings of the complex, the Templo de Quetzalcoatl y Tlaloc, was closed for renovations, giving us only a sideways peek at the carved serpent head sculptures that filled the walls. We walked through the museum with its displays of artifacts from the site.

Teotihuacรกn

A UNESCO Site

Meeting Guillermo, we found the ruins of Tepantitla where fragments of delicate red mural paintings were protected from the sun by black plastic curtains.

Acolman

At the nearby town of Acolman, five miles back towards Mexico City, we visited a 16th century Augustinian convent. Unable to see the church, as it is only open on Sundays, we enjoyed walking the old stone hallways and stepping into the quiet cloisters with fruitbearing orange trees. A 16th century stone cross stood across the street, covered with symbols of the Passion. An old man from the craft shop next door came out and explained them to us with the hope that we would buy a souvenir.

Tepotzotlan

We thought it would be a quick trip to our third destination, the national colonial museum in Tepotzotlan, located in what was once a Jesuit seminary. The real tour, however, was our taste of what traffic is like in a city of 18 million. Bumper to bumper, with oversized trucks and countless busses traveling on expressways that seemed to endlessly branch out and come together, with overpasses and underpasses that confirmed that there was no way we could have found our way on our own. Two hours later we were rewarded by a spectacular church in a quiet park-like setting. Eleven altarpieces of remarkable craftsmanship were embellished with gilded sculptures that glistened in the light that shone through openings in the dome. Paintings by Miguel Cabrera and antique Azulejos tiles added to the décor.

We savored the collections of art from the colonial period and enjoyed a quiet moment in the cloisters, framed by orange trees, calla lilies, and tiger orchids.

Returned to Guillermo, who had just bought an ice cream, and while we waited for him to finish it we basked in the sun and listened to the sound of a mariachi band playing in the street nearby. Then it was time to tackle the traffic back into the city. It was no better, but did afford us the chance to notice the billboards and large stores, and many US-based businesses. At 8:00, a taxi took us to our dinner reservations at Izote in the Polanco area. As we rode down President Mazarik, we were struck by the array of stunning shops; every name imaginable—Cartier, Tiffany, Vuitton, Loewe—providing stark contrast to the crowded, broken sidewalks we had walked over yesterday. The restaurant was upscale as well— classy local people enjoying edgy Mexican cuisine. Great margaritas, spicy sauces, and interesting presentations. The restaurant arranged for a car to take us back to the hotel. We feel we are getting a sense of this mammoth city.

Saturday, March 8 Mexico City Guillermo picked us up at 9:00 and we arrived at the famous anthropology museum just as it opened. Relieved that the long line we saw was for a special exhibit and not general admittance. Upper level of the museum is dedicated to the anthropological arts and artifacts of Mexican Indian cultures, while the ground floor concentrates on archeological highlights of the historical indigenous cultures. Of special interest to us were reproductions of the tomb of Pikal at Palenque, murals at Bonampak, and a frieze of corn and snake heads that we had missed yesterday at Teotihuacรกn. We also saw what the rooms had once looked like at Tepantitla and the Quetzalpapatotl palace where we had seen the red fragments.

Instituto Nacional de Antropologia e Historia

Leaving the museum just after noon, we crossed over to join groups of local family members watching dancers in great feathered headdresses and a group of Voladores who, suspended by their ankles, whirled around a tall pole. Walked north through the park and along adjacent streets; found an ATM (successful withdrawals) and stopped at a nearby hotel to use one of their taxis to take us to the Saturday market at San Angel. We had been told never to hail a taxi in Mexico City. The market resembled a Chicago art fair, extended over a larger area than was first apparent. Stopped at a little cantina for Cokes and continued up the hill to a larger plaza with more artists and music playing. Entered the crowded covered market and made our way down the narrow aisles displaying jewelry, textiles, toys and bric-a-brac.

A sitio taxi took us to the house in Coyoacan where Leon Trotsky was assassinated on Stalin’s orders in 1939. Lots of young people there. Museum rooms displayed photos and memorabilia associated with Trotsky and his family. Saw the modest room in which he was murdered with an ice pick to the brain. Five blocks brought us to the Casa Azul where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived until 1954. No pictures inside but the initial rooms contained mostly memorabilia and the living quarters displayed an eclectic collection of folk art and archeological fragments. Prominent were the corsets and braces that Kahlo wore in an attempt to minimize the pain from a trolley car accident to her back at the age of 19. Leaving the house, continued to the main plaza of Coyoacan. Comedians and musicians were interspersed among food and souvenir vendors. We briefly entered the food market where I unintentionally took a picture that included a prominently displayed “NO FOTO� sign. Another sitio taxi back to the hotel by 5:00. Walked down the street to the Palacio, an attractive department store where I tried unsuccessfully to find a pair of reading glasses to replace those I broke earlier in the day. Dinner at Pujol, considered by some to be the finest restaurant in Mexico City. Located on a side street in Polanco, Pujol has a serene, uncluttered atmosphere. Chose the degustation menu, nine courses that included rich and crispy chapulines (grasshoppers) that tasted better before I knew what they were. Mexican red merlot and perfect service. A really nice evening. Home by midnight.

Trotsky Museum

Casa Azul

Sunday, March 9 Mexico City After breakfast, took a taxi to the Palacio de Bellas Artes to see the famous Ballet Folklorico de Mexico. Encountered so many closed streets it seemed that all of MC was shut off to motor vehicles—quite a change from yesterday. It appeared that it was some kind of free day for cyclists to take over the roads. The driver dropped us off as close as he could get and we walked through Alameda, still arriving in plenty of time for the performance. Founded in 1952, the ballet traces the history of the traditional dances of Mexico. Had front and center seats for the colorful show. Surprised that photography was allowed—the performers had to endure a constant strobe of flashes throughout. When we left the theater, saw the first cloudy sky we’d encountered in Mexico. Crossed the street to take a few more pictures of the tile-covered colonial building that houses Sandborn’s restaurant before walking to a nearby hotel to pick up a taxi back to San Angel for our brunch reservations at San Angel Inn. Once a Carmelite monastery, the 17th century building is now a charming restaurant. Sat in the flower-filled courtyard and sipped our margaritas, watching extended families gathering to share their Sunday meal. Chose a table outside and I enjoyed a meal of Aztec tortilla soup and grilled shrimp while Jake tried escamoles, the ant larvae known as “Mexican caviar.” Had planned to return to Polanco and do a little shopping but learned that the stores are generally closed on Sundays so the driver took us on back to the hotel. While Jake took a nap, I walked down to the Palacio department store again and, finding it open, used my best sign language to buy a small handbag I had neglected to bring on the trip.

Ballet Folklorico de Mexico

Monday, March 10 to Oaxaca Domingo and its three-star interior, including an intricate plasterwork genealogical tree of the founder of the order, Don Domingo de Guzman.

Visited several crafts shops, including La Mano Magica where we saw clay Day of the Dead figures and nice textiles. Found our way to the Institut de Artes Graficas and met Patricia Mendoza, the director and a friend of our friend Bill Drendel. She showed us around the institute, founded 20 years ago by artist Francisco Toledo. She gave us suggestions of places to shop for art and textiles.

After we left her with the package Bill had asked us to deliver, we found Los Baules, the textile shop where we looked at beautiful pieces and debated buying something, deciding instead to defer any final decision. Did buy a bottle of mezcal after tasting several different ones. Visited Q Gallery, also at Patricia’s suggestion. Early dinner at Topil—not sure if it was the place Patricia had recommended—where we had Oaxacan specialties that were disappointing.

At 8:30, Guillermo drove us to the airport; no problem with traffic this time as it was all going in the other direction. Boarded a Click Mexicana Fokker-100 for the hour-long flight to Oaxaca. Lower altitude flying made for interesting scenery. Shared an airport shuttle into town with six others. The driver let us off on the square at the head of Calle 5 de Mayo. The Camino Real Hotel is located in a 16th century convent, surrounded by gardens, courtyards, and fountains. Checked in, unpacked, and were ready to explore the town by 1:30.

Met with Rodolfo, the concierge, and made plans for tours tomorrow and Wednesday. Had a light lunch at Marco Polo down the street. Simple, cheap, full of locals—and very good. Walked down to the Zocalo, a shady plaza filled with families enjoying the balmy weather. Poked our heads in the cathedral and then continued up the pedestrian Alcala to the 17th century Templo de Santo

Camino Real Hotel

Oaxaca Cathedral

Templo de Santo Domingo

Tuesday, March 11 Oaxaca Had breakfast at Marco Polo upon the advice of Rodolfo. Fun atmosphere again but was not overly fond of my enchilada suiza (chicken in a green sauce) that was unappealing first thing in the morning. At 10:00, drove in a van with six others to Monte Alban, located about five miles out of town. The World Heritage Site was built by the Zapotecs around 500 BC but later inhabited by the Mixtecs who used it as a military enclave. We chose not to take the tour offered by the driver, preferring to explore this mysterious place on our own. Climbed to the top of the north and south platforms (I climbed the south by myself).

Beautiful day with cool breezes really helped. Lots of interesting plants. More school groups. The crowds thinned around noon.

Monte Alban

A UNESCO Site

Rode back to the hotel with the van. Lunch at La Olla where I tried cactus tacos—a mistake. I made Jake eat them. Visited the evocative Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca to follow up our trip that morning by seeing the collection of gold artifacts from Monte Alban’s famed Tomb 7. Noted an extensive botanical garden from one of the balconies. Returned to the church but were again disappointed that it was not illuminated. Walked the streets and window shopped, running into Patricia at the textile store. Showed her the piece we were thinking about and she agreed that it was lovely.

Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca

After a rest at the hotel, looked forward to dinner at the well-respected Casa Oaxaca. The following is Jake’s dictated description of our meal, which he wanted to document: Arrived precisely at 8:30 to honor reservations made four weeks earlier. Given menu relatively promptly but ignored for more than 15 minutes. Finally garnered the waiter’s attention with vigorous hand waving and placed both our cocktail and dinner orders. Twenty minutes later, appetizers arrived followed shortly thereafter by the breadbasket and salsa. Cocktails arrived 10 minutes after the first course; delayed, according to the waiter, by the necessity of hand grating the ginger, although the presence thereof was not apparent in the drinks. Appetizer course consisted of cold avocado soup, bland but pleasant, and extraordinary chilies rellenos stuffed with ceviche and pomegranate sauce. Succeeded in gaining attention to place second drink order 20 minutes after the completion of the first course. Main courses arrived shortly thereafter and consisted of roast duck tacos in red mole—good but undistinguished—and venison, the most expensive entrée on the menu and the only one described as a house specialty. The meat was ordered medium rare but arrived blood red and refrigerator temperature in the center. It was accompanied by green beans, small potato balls and totally uncooked carrots in a plain meat sauce—a poorly prepared and totally unimaginative dish. The second round of drinks arrived 10 minutes after the main courses were served. Desserts consisted of a pleasant pistachio cake and pistachio ice cream, and an outstanding guava tart with a guava sorbet. The waiter’s inattention and surly attitude was aggravated by an incomplete removal of dishes. Total elapsed time at the meal was over 2 ½ hours and we do not recall having worse service at any restaurant.

Wednesday, March 12 Oaxaca Early breakfast in the courtyard of Gabriela Gerente, a small B&B. At 8:00, Apolo picked us up for a day of touring outside Oaxaca. We started with Mitla, the last religious center of the pre-Hispanic era where great lords and other important figures were buried. Apolo pointed out the ingenious decorative appointments that signified the elements of fire, water, earth, and wind. Climbed down into one of the tombs—had to crawl on all fours for a couple of meters—clammy and hot. At Yagul, high on a hill overlooking the Valley of Oaxaca, we saw a large ball court and took pictures of many species of flora—especially flowering cacti. Then on to the Zapotec city of Lambityeco where we climbed the steep steps to see that altar of the Casa del Coqui and its tomb.

Mitla

A UNESCO Site

Yagul

A UNESCO Site

A short drive further brought us to Teotitlan del Valle, a village famous for weaving, where Apolo took us to the home of Nathan Mendoza. Nathan introduced us to his wife and two small sons and showed us his loom, set up on the front porch. He took us through the steps of wool production and dying. We ended up buying a woven table runner of natural colors and woven in a pattern that he had designed. Made a stop at the 17th century Dominican church and convent of San Jeronimo in the village of Tlacochahuaya. The walls were painted using natural dyes to create frescoes of flowers and cherubs. Apolo pointed out a large crucifix that was recently discovered to contain a Mayan idol concealed inside! In this way the local congregants could still worship their gods while feigning reverence to Jesus Christ. Also visited the village of Santa Marie el Tule and wandered around the wondrous 2000-year-old juniper tree.

San Jeronimo Convent

Tlacochahuaya

Santa Marie el Tule 2000-year old Juiper Tree

Returning to Oaxaca, drove straight through town and continued to the village of San Agustin Etla. There we visited Taller Arte Papel Oaxaca, a handmade paper manufacturing cooperative begun in 1998 with the help of artist Francisco Toledo. The operation is housed in an old power plant located up a hill and down a narrow stone street. Young Evangelista gave us a tour and took us through the steps of paper making. Purchased several pieces of paper jewelry, including the imaginative earrings Evangelista was wearing herself.

Taller Arte Papel

Apolo dropped us off at the hotel just before 4:30 and after a break we headed out again to visit the Instituto de Artes Graficas de Oaxaca (IAGO) and the Centro Fotografico Alvarez Bravo, both located in 18th colonial houses. Did a little shopping: I bought a silk and felt shawl from Q Tienda which I discovered was made by the wife of Francisco Toledo. Returned to Los Baules and looked again at the woven piece we had been considering, before heading to the Zocalo. A band was playing and couples were dancing to a slow Latin beat—“Danzon”—and we joined a large group of onlookers. Upon Apolo’s recommendation, we had dinner on the upper balcony of El Asador Vasco on the square. Our solitude was interrupted by two large tour groups but we had fun watching them as well as a lively mariachi band that was hired to entertain them.

Thursday, March 13 Oaxaca Buffet breakfast at the hotel; Oaxacan hot chocolate from a big earthenware pot —yum! The rest was really too much so early in the morning. Apolo picked us up at 9:00 to visit Oaxacan artisans in neighboring villages. Began in Cayotepic, the black pottery town, where he took us to a large showroom where we briefly saw the son of the man who had invented the process of creating black pottery. From there we visited the town museum where we got a sense of the scope of the various artists’ work, both in Cayotepic and in other nearby towns. Were particularly drawn to a wall of skulls created by noted local sculptor Carlomagno Pedro Martinez. Apolo agreed to take us to his home, not far from the museum.

Knocked on the metal door of a purple house on the side of the highway; Carlomagno himself answered it and ushered us in. After looking at intriguing examples of his work, particularly Day of the Dead pieces, we chose a life-sized skull with a small skeleton sitting on it accompanied by a malevolent-looking spider. Carlomagno is known for his use of skulls and skeleton figures to illustrate Zapotec folklore. This piece was a fine example. I also bought a necklace of plump black hearts designed by his sister. On to San Martin Tilcajete, the village of artisans who create the colorful wooden animals for which Oaxaca is known.

Decided to start with the best and Apolo took us to the home of Jacobo and Maria Angeles, where family members all participate in the carving and painting of exquisite works of art using wood, natural pigments, and traditional Zapotec designs. The Angeles are the only artisans who utilize these ancient and ageless designs in their art. Placed an order for a cow—which intrigued Jacobo who had never made one before—and will look forward to receiving it when he comes to Chicago in October for the opening of an exhibition at the Museum of Mexican Art in Pilsen. We were intrigued to learn about the “power animals” associated with each of our grandchildren when he showed us his little Zapotec book of charts and dates. Made a short visit to the town of Santo Tomas Jalieza where Apolo took us to a back strap weaving cooperative. We enjoyed watching the old women at their looms but did not buy anything there.

Pedro Carlomagno Cayotepic

Jacobo and Maria Angeles San Martin Tilcajete

Being Thursday, it was livestock market day in the village of Zaachila. Apolo took us through the market, being careful not to get too near the backsides of any donkey, bull, goat, pig, or anything else with four legs. Saw groups of men and women offering animals for sale while women in stalls fried up tacos and enchiladas and a one-man band provided musical entertainment.

Returned to the hotel around 2:00; said good-by to Apolo, his card safely added to my file. Walked down Alcala to Basilica de la Soledad, the principal place of worship for the people of Oaxaca. Saw a funeral within and a military formation outside. Visited the modern art museum where we enjoyed the collection of graphic art, including some Ensors and works by German Expressionists. Also peeked into the Ruffino Tamayo archeological museum which, like the art museum, was located in a colonial house.

Continued south to the market and briefly walked though, finding it generally disappointing, with plenty of browning bananas and other unappealing fruit. Did notice mounds of mole in a variety of colors and bags of the local white cheese. On the way out, stopped to photograph the dried chapulines proudly displayed by several women. Paused for a drink at the Zocalo and were immediately inundated on all sides by beggars and hawkers, young and old, displaying various levels of persistence. People-watched too—local families, tourists in appalling outfits. A pan flute group with drums and guitars was drowned out by a parade of young children dressed up as kings and princesses. A hunger strike nearby reminded us that the recent teacher’s strike was not totally resolved. Returned for a third time to Los Baules and finally bought the Mixtec woven and embroidered textile we had been admiring. Learning that it was made of natural materials and dyes helped our final decision. Back at our hotel, had a couple of margaritas around the pool while we enjoyed a view of the illuminated façade of the old monastery. Dinner at Hosteria de Alcala, also recommended by Apolo. Simple, uninspired fare. Back to face the increasingly challenging task of packing for our morning departure.

Basilica de la Soledad

Friday, March 14 to San Cristobal de las Casas A local taxi brought us to the airport at 7:30; quick trip in spite of the yellow warning light on the dash. Through security with no problem with liquids or the large pottery skull in my carry-on. Alma 520 to Tuxla Gutierrez in a CRJ 200, a 50-seat jet; nice and smooth. Driver from Casa Felipe Flores, where we had purchased three nights at the IWA gala last year, met us and drove us the 50 miles to San Cristobal de las Casas. Rang the bell by pulling a string by the outer door and Amin, the manager, welcomed us and told us that the owners, David and Nancy Orr, would be away during our stay; a disappointment. After depositing our bags in our tiled-floor, wood-beamed room, set out to do a little exploring.

A combination of colonial heritage and powerful indigenous Mayan traditions, San Cristobal is an enchanting town. Narrow streets and narrower sidewalks run though low tile-roofed buildings painted bright colors of blue, red, and mustard. A shame that the blight of graffiti is well-entrenched and somewhat spoils the beauty of block upon block in some areas. Real hazards are the slanted driveways that cut through the sidewalks into the roads, compelling the pedestrian to be ever mindful of each step. Walked to La Paloma, an attractive restaurant filled with plants and natural light where we had lunch. Continued around the Zocalo, passing the municipal palace, and the cathedral with its colorful façade painted yellow with white and red detailing. Saw the Templo de Santo Domingo, constructed in the 16th century and restructured a century later. When it opened at 4:00, we visited the Mayan Textile Cooperative adjacent to the church. Found our way to the Taller de Lenateros where we saw their bookmaking operation and purchased three handmade books, including a book of Mayan women’s incantations with an intriguing mask cover.

Got back to the B&B after 6:00 and had a rest before we tried to find the place we hoped to have dinner. It had apparently moved, and we settled on a simple meal at El Puente, a hippy-looking vegetarian place.

Taller de Lenateros

Saturday, March 15 San Cristobal de las Casas Luxurious sleep-in until 8:30; breakfast at 9:30. Talked to a woman who had been to Palenque; she described children pulling ropes across the road to stop drivers. Wondered what that was all about; Jake unconcerned. Walked back towards the Zocalo, to the church and the arch of the Carmen and then down to the church of San Francisco. Entered the market where we saw piles of sweets and cookies ready for the coming Semana Santa. Back to the Plaza 31 Marzo where we found a post office/Internet café and bought stamps and mailed our cards. Then towards the Templo de Santo Domingo and the municipal market where we saw Mayan women hesitant to be photographed. Frustrating, as they were so interesting and their clothes, works of art. Tethered chickens and piles of vegetables outside; stalls with pigs’ heads, fried fish, sausages. At the Museo de los Altos de Chiapas, in the former convent associated with the church, saw religious paintings and historical artifacts but were disappointed not to see any textiles. Toured the Indian textile market stalls in the church grounds. Many hawkers. Went inside the small and charming church of the Caridad. Bought a cheap bag in which to stash our new acquisitions. Then to Glam (across from La Paloma) for lunch before returning to the Casa Flores for a nap. Later, drinks before dinner in the living room. Returned to La Paloma for dinner but were disappointed in it this time.

Watched the performances of several tuna musical groups at the Zocalo—each group had their own costume and many individuals sported colorful ribbon awards. Passed numerous night spots on the way back—pool hall, bars—a lively little town.

Journal kept by Susan Hanes during a trip to Mexico and Guatemala from March 5-17, 2008. Photos by Susan Hanes and George Leonard, copyright 2008. V. 1

Volume 1