Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
Issue
1
2021
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
PAGE 16 \ PROMISED LAND FARM
Southern SOIL
2
Contents 14
08
A GREENER WORLD: LAYING HENS 101
COOKING DURING QUARANTINE
PAGE 14 \ THINKING OF SETTING UP A NEW AGW-CERTIFIED LAYING HEN OPERATION?
PAGE 08 \ LESSONS FROM JOHN, CATIE AND JULIA
22
a growing food movement
18 SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
PAGE 18 \ THE PROMISED LAND FARM
26 3
CHEF’S TABLE
ASK THE EXPERTS
PAGE 22 \ GEORGIA SEA GRILL
PAGE 26 \ LIVING A GREENER LIFESTYLE
04....... EDITORIAL 30....... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
34....... SOME KINDA GOOD 39....... THE BOOKWORM
Aboutthe Cover Brothers Bill and Bob Johnson along with Mater the Truck from The Promised Land Farm in Port Wentworth. These farmers “in training” have a lifetime of experience coaxing food from the land, but still see every day as an opportunity I S S U E ~to1 learn ~ 2 0 2 some1 thing new!
Southern SOIL
Editorial I’m so excited to be publishing this first issue of 2021 … it means that we survived 2020 and are still moving forward! That in itself feels like an accomplishment worth celebrating. Beyond survival though, there are other reasons to celebrate a new year of the sustainable local food movement. Due to the pandemic, more people than ever are beginning to pay attention to their food sources and with more time at home there has been a return to the kitchen and even an increased interest in gardening and producing food at home. Our own audience has grown substantially over the past year and I’m happy to welcome any new readers to this wonderful community of people committed to making the world a better place through our actions and choices as they relate to our food systems. 4
you enjoy meeting them and learning a bit of their stories. My goal and mission for Southern Soil is to inspire, encourage, educate, and work toward a food system that restores health to our planet and our bodies and restores dignity to those who work the land and honors the lives of the animals we raise for food. I thank you for joining us on this journey!
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
Small Farm Spotlight, page 18
As we go into 2021, you can expect us to continue our coverage and celebration of our local food systems - the farmers, the chefs, the advocates who are working hard to bring us fresh, healthy and sustainable foods. I’m excited to finally be able to continue our restaurant feature series (which I started at the beginning of 2020, but had to suspend). We will be continuing our regular features from 2020: Native Plant Highlight, Small Farm Spotlight, Community Gardens, and Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood. New this year, we’re introducing the series Ask the Expert, bringing some great advice from some experts in areas relating to sustainability. I’m always excited for every new issue! I love that I get to meet so many awesome people who inspire and encourage me on my path and I hope that
Cooking During Quarantine, page 8
a growing food movement
5
I would like to say a special “thank you” to my friend Tara Ruby who has contributed her skills as a photographer for several articles over the past couple of years. She is moving to Texas and I will miss her friendship and her talents!
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
FOL L OW US www.southernsoil.org
C ONTAC T US 6
For general inquiries, write to info@southernsoil.org
S UBM I S S I ONS If you’d like to contribute, email us at editor@southernsoil.org
S P ONS ORS To enquire about advertising or sponsorships, get in touch at info@southernsoil.org.
Novo
Graphic design services provided by
d
e
s
i
g
n
a practical approach to design
Kelly White | pixinovo@gmail.com
s
Serve up your business to the right audience...
a growing food movement
...we’ll even help you design an ad for a one time fee of $50 and give you the file to use however you want! We believe that the more we help you succeed - the better for everyone. 7
To advertise, call 912-688-4168 or email us at info@southernsoil.org
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
08
Southern SOIL
8
a growing food movement
Cooking During Quarantine:
lessons from John, Catie and Julia
by LeeAnna Tatum
Photos provided by: @cookingwithjohnandjulia Like most Americans, life as they knew it for
“I lived overseas for a little bit and I also traveled. In
Savannah friends Catie Duncan and John Villarrea
almost every country I’ve been to I’ve tried to take a
was thoroughly disrupted by COVID. From an active
cooking class because I love the flavors. I love to try
social, work and school life to working and studying
new recipes,” Catie explained.
from home with limited social interaction, the pair found themselves searching for their new normal. Shopping the weekly farmers market and cooking daily meals helped to add structure to their days while also providing opportunities for safe social interactions. The process of preparing and sharing meals together became a healthy way for Catie and John to deal with stress and keep their outlook positive during the global pandemic.
9
Add to that a slight obsession with Julia Child and their desire to maintain those social connections with friends and family from whom they were separated and you get an Instagram account devoted to food, fun and some french-inspired “cooking with John and Julia”! It’s not too surprising that these two would turn to cooking during a time of turmoil. Both Catie and John grew up in families where food and cooking were integral to the home.
Cooking was also a big part of family life for John growing up.
Catie, originally from Florida, grew up in the Middle East. Cooking and sharing meals together were an
“Both of my parents love cooking. My dad comes
important part of family life for Catie’s mom. When
from a Hispanic family so cooking is big in the
she was older, Catie did a lot of traveling abroad
culture. And my mom’s family is very big on passing
and enjoyed trying and learning different cuisines.
(con tinued on page 10)
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 9)
down recipes. My mom learned the Mexican
Cooking meals together soon became their new
and Latin techniques ... and she’s really good at
normal - providing both a sense of normalcy and a
improvising. My dad loves to cook as well. So
way to add joy to their day.
cooking has always been something important in my family.”
“It became our new routine,” Catie said. “To go from not being able to see your family and I travel for
John also spent time abroad and learned some
work normally and I was grounded. It was just a
new cooking techniques while living in Italy.
lot, it was very overwhelming. Cooking just brought some peace for us. We just started really having
“I learned to make homemade pasta from this little
fun with it.”
Italian lady, Josephina in Continella Italy. In this little bitty village where I was restoring 13th century
The friends loved the movie Julie and Julia. (For
frescas. That’s where I learned to make homemade
those not familiar, it’s based on the true story of
pasta because that’s not something my parents
a woman who
really knew how to do.”
decided to cook her way through
10
When the shelter at home orders started, Catie
Julia Child’s iconic
and John lived within walking distance of each
cookbook one
other and would often have dinner together. Then
recipe per day and
they decided that instead of facing the quarantine
blog about her
alone, it would be more manageable to stick it out
experience.The
together.
film also weaves in the story of Julia Child’s early years of learning to cook in France and the writing of Mastering the Art of French Cooking). During quarantine, they also began watching episodes of Julia Child’s cooking show The French Chef which originally aired during the ‘60s and ‘70s (now streaming on Prime Video). It became the background noise to their daily quarantine life and quickly influenced their behavior in the kitchen. “We watched her so much we just started naturally mimicking her in the kitchen,” Catie said with a laugh.
a growing food movement
But it wasn’t just Julia that influenced their cooking.
posted on their individual Instagram accounts, so
Catie and John also started doing the bulk of their
the duo decided to create a unique account just for
grocery shopping at Forsyth Farmers Market on
their food postings and @cookingwithjohnandjulia
Saturday mornings. The open-air market offered a
was born.
safer alternative to shopping at the grocery store. “We market than the grocery store,” John explained. “During COVID, having this
“
nice ability to see people
go
through
it
(Julia’s
cookbook) in order, we would shop at the farmers market
Cooking just brought some
“
“It’s safer really to go to the
didn’t
peace for us. We just started really having fun with it.
and be social, plus the food is all fresh and local. And that was amazing.”
and
then
see
what
we could make using those ingredients,” Catie explained. “We did the beef
bourguignon which we had on sourdough from the market - it was delicious.”
Their combination of Julia-inspired dishes made
“Sometimes the things we cooked were epic fails,”
with fresh seasonal ingredients along with their
she continued. “We were just doing it because
antics in the kitchen started getting noticed when
we were laughing, but if you were laughing at us (con tinued on page 12)
11
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 11)
cooking and having epic fails or huge successes at least you were entertained.” Their lives have begun to return to a more preCOVID normal which means that they are no longer living together and do not cook shared meals every day. And although their lives have returned to a busier schedule including work, classes (both are in grad school) and a bit more socializing, there are lessons learned and habits developed through the experience that they plan to hold on to.
process. I really like to have people participate, it’s 12
just fun that way.That’s how it is in my dad’s family.. Everyone is together making tamales or tortillas … there’s talking and laughing.” Since quarantine protocols relaxed, Catie started up taco night with her brother and other friends. Rather than one person doing the cooking, everyone brings together things like leftovers or items they already have to create a special time of sharing and “We had tons of fun. It’s like therapy for me,” Catie
creating food together.
said. “To start the process of cooking dinner every night, it’s therapeutic. After a day of working …
Shopping at the farmers market continues to be
cooking is a way to wind down. I think not a lot of
part of their regular routine.
people do that any more. So, when we got back into it because of COVID it was like - I need to do this
“The whole going to the farmers market every week
even when it’s not COVID!”
… I wish more people would do that,” Catie said. I go at 9:00 and I’m home by 10:30. It starts you off
“I think Catie and I both have this aspect to dinner
for the weekend … As you shop the farmers market
parties,” John explained, “to bring people into the
more, you know what you want and don’t want and
a growing food movement
you don’t spend a fortune.” “We all have our own s**t going on in our lives,” John said “ … it’s really nice to have this aspect of … if I’m going to stuff my face with food because I’m stressed, best believe it’s fresh and local!” The quarantine really helped to emphasize to the pair the importance of people coming together around food. Whether it’s the relationships developed through regular visits to the farmers market, friendships strengthened through the shared experience of preparing meals together, or even connecting with neighbors by dropping off a prepared dish; food is a wonderful way to connect with others and create community. John said it well, “No matter the circumstances … There’s a way to bring this feeling of community share food with other people.” 13
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
14
Southern SOIL
14
Photo Credit: Mike Suarez of Gorilla Byte Media for A Greener World
LAYING HENS 101
a growing food movement
Thinking of setting up a new AGW-certified laying hen operation? Frank Morison looks at the basics
Pasture-raised eggs can provide a useful income stream to an existing farming business. But as with any new venture, it is essential to ask yourself some important questions before buying in your first chicks. Do I have the time and additional resources to accomplish this task? Can I afford the initial outlay? What are my costs of production? Do I have a viable local market, such as a major metropolitan area or popular farmers’ market? Will local stores or restaurants take my eggs? What makes my farm and eggs different from local competition? Only you can answer these questions. Do not rush: think it through carefully, as these questions may lead to other issues you might not have considered. Remember: the number of birds you plan to keep will not only dictate the number of eggs you will have to sell, but also things like space requirements for brooding, housing and range area, perch provision, feed supplies and so on. Make sure you do your homework first!
Choosing the breed
Most small-scale farmers choose traditional-type breeds for their good ranging and foraging abilities. Here are some commonly used breeds for pasture-based production: Araucana: 250 eggs of blue or green shell color per cycle. Can be flighty. Some farmers add the colored eggs of these birds into a carton to make them stand out from competition. Barred Rock: 250–260 eggs of brown shell color per cycle. Calm bird, great disposition. Delaware: 250–260 eggs of brown shell color per cycle. Calm bird, hardy for cold regions. The Delaware breed was used to start the modern broiler industry. Rhode Island Red: 250-260 eggs of brown shell color per cycle. Friendly and calm. White Leghorn: 280 eggs of white shell color per cycle. Nervous and flighty. Note: AGW does not endorse any specific breed. Lay rates will vary depending on strain and hatchery.
Sourcing birds
AGW standards require you to source chicks or point-of-lay (POL) pullets from an AGW-certified laying hen/breeder farm. If there is no suitable supplier near you, you can order chicks from any hatchery or farm as long as the birds are placed on your farm by 36 hours of age. Note: you can only source POL pullets from AGW-certified laying hen/breeder farms. If your hatchery is within driving distance it’s well worth picking up the chicks instead of having them mailed. The faster you get the chicks on the ground eating and drinking, the better overall results you will have. Speak with a local veterinarian or extension agent to discuss potential vaccination against diseases in your area. Some hatcheries offer vaccinations when you order.
Brooding
It is possible to brood and raise a small number of chicks in a garage or a spare outbuilding. But brooding is a critical time for the young chick and any brooding area must be predator proof with access to water, electricity and a heat source to keep chicks warm. You will need to provide a minimum of 0.25 sq. ft. brooding space per chick, increasing the area appropriately as the birds grow. You will also need to provide training perches made from natural tree limbs or lumber for young pullets from 10 days of age through to point of lay. Remember that AGW’s laying hen standards require chicks “to have access to (con tinued on page 16)
I S S U E Winter ~ 1 ~ 2021, 2 0 2 1 pages This article first appeared in A Greener World’s Sustainable Farming magazine, 8-11. Reproduced here with kind permission. For more information about A Greener World—home of the world’s leading labels—visit .
15
(con tinued f r om page 15)
Southern SOIL
forage by seven days of age.” Some farmers place a piece of sod in the brood chamber to help the chicks become more accustomed to foraging.
Housing
16
After brooding, chicks will need suitable housing with access to pasture. There are many different types of stationary and mobile housing kits available to purchase. If you’re looking to save costs, you can build your own coop from scratch (plenty of designs are available), while it is certainly possible to modify an old farm wagon, camper or mobile home into a mobile coop or roost, and construct your own nesting and perching systems. Likewise, an existing barn with extra space will work well. Just like the brooding area, you will need water and electricity and possibly a heat source, depending on where you farm. There are pros and cons to using mobile and stationary structures. The largest drawback for stationary housing is ensuring continuous access to fresh pasture, as AGW standards state that pasture must not become more than 20% denuded or void of grass at any time. Rotating pasture access from the house is the ideal, moving birds between different paddocks around the house. While mobile units mean you can move to new pasture as needed, supplying water for drinking systems, keeping birds warm in colder climates, transporting feed to the birds and moving coops in hilly fields are all things to consider. Make sure you understand the AGW standards on housing from the very outset. To qualify as a roost, the structure needs a minimum of 7 in. perch space per bird and the birds will have to be released from the structure within 1 hour of sunrise. If the doors are opened within two hours of sunrise the structure is not classified as a roost and must meet the 1.8 sq. ft. per bird space requirement. If the doors are not opened within 2 hours of sunrise then structures must meet the 1.8 sq. ft. per bird space requirement plus the additional 4 sq. ft. loafing requirement, requiring a total of 5.8 sq. ft. per bird. Entry/exit pop-holes or doors are essential. The number required under AGW standards will depend on your flock size. Minimum door width is 18” wide for a flock of 75 birds or less, while a flock of 75–140 birds will need two 18” doors or one door of at least 36” wide. (The height of any entry/exit must be at least 1 in. higher than the tallest bird in the flock when upright.) If you farm in a colder climate your birds will need a warm structure to reside in. Some farmers pull mobile roosts into the barn or tunnel building for the winter, giving the birds at least 4 sq. ft. per bird for a ranging area and using the mobile roost with doors open so they have a roosting area. Other farms utilize a stationary structure with pasture access year-round.
The range
When birds reach four weeks of age, AGW standards
require continuous access to pasture (except in extreme weather) with a minimum of 4 sq. ft. of range per bird. The minimum range area is 10’ X 18’. So, if you had a 180 sq. ft. ranging area, the maximum number of birds allowed would be 45 hens. If you plan to have 500 hens, for example, you will need a fenced pasture area of at least 2,000 sq. ft. to comply with the standards. But remember that any fixed area will most likely become over 20% denuded if hens are not rotated to new areas to allow the previous section to regenerate. Hens need to feel safe in order to range and planting bushes, shrubs or a few rows of tall crops like corn, sunflower or sorghum will definitely help. Simple wooden structures, tarp or an old farm trailer will also give the birds cover in the pasture. Using multiple water founts and feeding areas will also encourage hens to range. Running a couple of roosters will also help move the hens along in the pasture.
Feed
Feed is the highest cost item in production, so it is important to plan what you are going to feed —and find ways to reduce costs. Commercial poultry feed is usually available in three stages—starter, grower and layer. Buying bulk feed is the best way to save costs. Will you have enough hens to buy a pallet at a time? Or do you have a bulk storage bin? Maybe you have a large tote that will hold a ton or more and drive to the mill to pick it up. Can you grow your own crops? If so, it is possible to grind and mix your own rations, although you will need to work with a nutritionist to ensure the diet will satisfy the birds’ nutritional requirements. Some feed mills add grit to the feed mix during the manufacturing process, but if you live in an area with a lot of natural grit your hens will consume it. Hens also need a source of calcium for the shell-creating process. Most commercial layer feeds have a calcium range of 3–5%, which is adequate for egg production, although some farmers like to offer grit and oyster shells. Do you intend to pursue Certified Non-GMO by AGW or organic certification? Certifications can enhance your product and increase profit margins, but you will need to secure suitable feed supplies.
Bedding
Bedding is another area where bulk purchasing can reduce costs. During the brooding phase most farmers use pine shavings or coarse cut sawdust. Make sure the material is dry, as too much moisture in fresh cut timber products can cause respiratory issues, although most shavings or sawdust from local farm stores is kiln dried. For adult birds, farmers use shavings, sawdust or straw as bedding. Mobile roosts may have mesh or slatted flooring, which is compliant with AGW standards if it does not injure the hens’ feet. These products can be used in nest boxes.
Key equipment
As well as housing, you will need essential equipment,
including nest boxes, fencing, watering and feeding stations. Poultry founts, nipple drinkers and various water containers are available for drinking, as well as a bewildering array of feeding equipment, with everything from the old metal can style and PVC units to fully automatic feeders. Individual or communal nests are available. If you decide on individual nest boxes you will need a minimum of 1 nest box per 5 hens, while a communal system requires a minimum of 20 sq. in. per hen. Most farmers use electro-net style fencing with a good charger, as it is light, portable and effective. Solar, battery and electric chargers are widely available. Buy the best you can afford. While it is worth looking out for used equipment, make sure you power wash and disinfect anything you buy to prevent disease transmission.
here, but let’s just say every farm has a story to tell —and a growing food movement your customers need to feel part of it. Make the most of your AGW certification and explain why it matters. Social media is a cost-effective way to share information about your day-to-day farm activities and where people can buy your eggs.
Preventing predators
Useful resources
Good fencing is extremely important to protect hens from terrestrial predators. Check electric fencing regularly to make sure it is properly grounded. (It might be necessary to have two or more grounding points to provide the proper current.) When hens migrate back to their structure at dusk it is essential to shut them in until sunrise. Aerial predators can also be troublesome. However, providing cover in the range will reduce the chances of a hawk picking off a bird. Some farmers place scarers in their pasture to deter aerial predators. Another option is to place poles around your structure and tie fishing line between the poles, as the aerial predator is afraid of getting tangled. Trained guardian dogs that live with the birds can be highly effective.
Egg handling equipment
The scale and complexity of your egg handling set up will depend on the number of hens. Your system could be simple as a couple of egg baskets for egg collection, a double sink to wash eggs, a low-cost candler to inspect the eggs, a simple set of scales for grading, and refrigerator to store eggs. Specialist machinery is available to wash, weigh and grade eggs for larger operations. Note: Every state has its own regulations on selling farm eggs and it is important to take the time to examine your state’s requirements before you start. Some states have exemptions for smaller flocks.
Spent hens
AGW standards require that hens go through at least two laying cycles before removal from the flock. Some farmers give away spent hens to local farmers or hobbyists, while others process spent hens for meat to sell as stew birds. Remember: if you decide to sell the meat under the AGW label your farm or processing facility will need an annual slaughter review.
farmhealthonline.com: With information on over 100 common diseases, plus nutrition, housing and husbandry, Farm Health Online offers free and immediate access to practical, science-based advice on positive livestock management. agreenerworld.org/farmer-services/ technicalsupport: AGW’s free technical advice fact sheets cover the most commonly asked questions about high-welfare farming—from range management to feather pecking. attra.ncat.org/topics/poultry: ATTRA’s ‘Sustainable Agriculture Program’s Pastured Poultry: Egg Production’ guide is an excellent (and free) introduction to integrating egg production into an existing farm operation. Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens: While focused on backyard flocks, this book by Gail Damerow is a useful for the beginner. But always cross-reference any advice with the AGW standards. poultry.extension.org: World of Poultry is part of the online U.S. Cooperative Extension System, known as eXtension, and offers useful content for the smallscale producer. Frank Morison is Lead Auditor with A Greener World
Egg price
Don’t just copy your competitor’s egg price! Costs of production will vary from flock to flock and it is essential to do the math to ensure you will not lose money. When calculating production costs for a dozen eggs, make sure you factor in electricity, fuel, labor, feed, water, chick costs, lay rate, egg breakage, mortality, bedding, egg cartons and other miscellaneous supplies. Remember to depreciate major equipment costs like fencing and brooding lights over several flocks. Online laying hen calculators can help you to estimate costs and egg price. Marketing is far too big a topic to cover
AGW’s low-cost branded eggs cartons cost $36 for 200 (plus $14 shipping). An informative insert is also available to help tell your story. Find out more at agreenerworld.org/ shop-agw ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
17
Southern SOIL
Small Farm
Spotlight
I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
Located in Port Wentworth, The Promised Land
It was during his time overseas that Bob gained an
Farm is owned and farmed by brothers Robert and
appreciation for farmers. In a hurry to get away from
Willie Johnson - better known as Uncle Bob and
farm life, Bob joined the Army and served during the
Uncle Bill, self proclaimed farmers “in training”.
Vietnam War. During his 21 years in the service, Bob
The brothers have a long and complicated relationship with farming. Both spent their boyhood
He began to see farming through a new lens and
growing up and working in the fields with their
to recognize the vital role that farmers play. Once
mother and grandparents. Their father was a truck
he saw farming as the means of putting food on
driver and their grandfather was a sharecropper.
his table and feeding his community, Bob’s attitude
As boys, the two had very different attitudes toward 18
spent time in Vietnam, Korea and Germany.
toward farming changed.
farming - older brother Bill loved working on the
After retirement in 1989, Bob bought the land they
farm and has very fond memories of those early
currently farm. Local history has the land originally
years. On the other hand, Bob hated farming. “I’d be
going to freed slave Roderick Steele who was given
the last one to come into the field and the first one
the land for his service in aid of General Sherman -
to go out,” he recalled.
the fulfilment of the promised 40 acres and a mule.
a growing food movement “We got the acreage but we didn’t get the mule,”
these sometimes vulnerable groups are able to have
Uncle Bob says with a laugh. “So, we went with ‘The
a source of nutritious food.
Promised Land’” as our name.
Another means of serving their community, the
While Bob had a newfound love and appreciation
brothers offer the opportunity to rent-a-row. Anyone
for farming, his brother Bill was very content to be
wishing to grow some of their own produce can
retired. “I was determined I wasn’t farming,” Bill said.
rent a row and plant it with anything they would like
“I was going to sit here on the porch and take it easy.
to grow. Planting, tending and harvesting are the
He kept asking me to help him.”
responsibility of the renter.
According to Bob, Bill came to the farm one day to
Herbicides are not used or allowed on the farm. “We
help him with a fire that was being used to clear
don’t use herbicides here,” Uncle Bob states with a
some additional farm land. Bill didn’t remember it
straight face, “we use ‘hoe-besides.” Picking up a
that way and the brothers laugh and argue over the
hoe, he demonstrates, “you use the hoe beside the
specifics. But it’s clear that once Bill did get involved
plant.”
with the farm, the two have enjoyed both working the land and working together!
A recent addition to the farm is an area leased by a KnUW Way Homeschool Cooperative. Kids who
The farm is well known for its cool weather
are a part of the cooperative are able to come to
crop - collard greens. Bob’s birthday is March 6th
the farm and see and experience where their food
and for the past 13 years, the farm has hosted a
comes from. The group has a small chicken coop,
Collard Green Festival on or around that date. Very
composting area, play area and herb garden.
community minded, the brothers donate free greens to veterans and the elderly to help make sure that
Rodney Parker was a customer who befriended the brothers and now spends time helping them work on the farm. His children are also part of the cooperative and are learning about the farm through firsthand experience. Visitors are always welcome to the farm! The farmstand is open most days. Summer crops will include watermelon, corn and sugarcane. They are located at 269 Montieth Road, Port Wentworth GA. 912-631-2949. Follow them on Facebook!
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
19
Southern SOIL
20
a growing food movement
21
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL
Chef’s TABLE In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.
Chef’s Table: Georgia Sea Grill (St. Simons Island) 22
Article by: LeeAnna Tatum Photos: Tara Ruby
Georgia Sea Grill is a great place to celebrate
The atmosphere and decor is casually elegant
special occasions. Whether you’re celebrating an
which lends itself well to all kinds of diners!
anniversary, birthday or other life event with family
Whether you’ve just spent the day exploring the
and friends; or simply celebrating the end of the
local beaches or want to take a business client out
workday on a Tuesday or celebrating a visit to the
to dinner, you’ll feel comfortable sitting down to
beach on the weekend.
dine here.
It’s unpretentious fine dining that you can enjoy any
Conveniently located for tourists and locals alike,
day of the week (except Sundays, because they’re
the restaurant is just blocks from the pier on St
closed).
Simons Island.
Proprietor Zack Gowen took ownership of the
Gowen is himself a local to the area and has a
restaurant in December of 2014 and promptly
wealth of experience in the restaurant industry.
moved to a larger location. The spacious dining
With his departure from a franchised restaurant,
room offers a variety of seating areas including a
Gowen committed to sourcing food as locally as
bar and a space that can be divided off for private
possible when he took on Georgia Sea Grill; even
dinner parties.
going so far as to start Potlikker Farm and Satilla
a growing food movement
Ponds in order to grow fresh produce and bring the
and the local produce that is available.
freshest catfish to the menu. Chef Lensch is also a local who has cooked in many top kitchens in the South. Lensch enjoys the creative aspects of cooking and likes having the freedom to come up with new dishes based on what comes into the kitchen from area farmers and the catch of the day. As with everything else, COVID has brought a few changes to the restaurant. They now ask for reservations which enables them to better control the flow of guests and ensure adequate spacing. Speaking of menus, Executive Chef Timothy Lensch
Take out is also now available for most menu
has created a menu designed around low-country
items.
style dishes with an emphasis on small plates and modern Southern fare. Regulars can expect their favorite dishes to remain on the menu, but Chef also offers daily specials that reflect the seasons
For my visit to Georgia Sea Grill, I was joined by photographer Tara Ruby and her daughter Kylea. (con tinued on page 24)
23
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 2 3)
We were provided access to the kitchen and served a variety of dishes. We did manage to keep from licking our plates clean …. but just. Every dish was delicious and beautifully plated. The Wasabi Pea Encrusted Tuna served with stir-fried cabbage, ginger-soy butter and Sriracha aioli was definitely a group favorite (we may have fought over the last bite). Though my favorite morsel of the evening just might have been the Georgia Beef Carpaccio - a build-your-own bite made of thinly sliced, locally sourced beef with chive aioli, parmesan, capers, Georgia olive oil and soft boiled egg served with crostini. Everything just worked together to make a truly perfect bite that melted in my mouth. A special for the day, we also had blackened 24
redfish over a sweet corn polenta (amazing!) and an old fashioned chocolate cake with a strawberry buttercream. (It’s also worth noting that (even though I had to take a pass) there is a fairly extensive wine list: both by the glass and the bottle. And although we were there before it got started, live piano music from the bar is piped throughout the restaurant every evening.) Georgia Sea Grill is one of those places that allows you as a customer to simply enjoy your experience, because there’s a sense that true professionals are at the helm. From a professional wait staff to expertly prepared food and a well-maintained environment - you just know that you can sit back and relax in the knowledge that you’re in good hands.
a growing food movement
Georgia Sea Grill offers up fresh, local, modern, Southern fare in an inviting atmosphere. It’s an accessible fine dining experience that you really shouldn’t miss! For more information including their full menu with prices, check out the website! If you’d like to read more about the relationship between GSG and Potlikker Farm, check out this article: Restaurateur, Farmer, Chef and a Recipe for Change published in 2020.
25
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL
Ask the
EXPERTS
Living a Greener Lifestyle
by LeeAnna Tatum
Photos provided by: Kimberly-Carr Home Designs
Husband and wife team Michael and Heather
I met with them to discuss their journey and to
O’Sullivan are the owners and founders of
glean some tips that we can all put to use in our
Kimberly-Carr Home Designs, a company created
own journeys toward a more sustainable lifestyle.
to help people live a greener lifestyle. Their
Following are some questions and answers from
company is a reflection of their personal
these green living experts.
commitment to an environmentally-conscious life. What are a few simple changes we can begin Though admittedly still a far cry from the so-
making today toward a greener lifestyle?
called “zero waste” lifestyle, the couple have made 26
significant strides in their own home to reduce
If you haven’t already done so, Heather suggests
waste in general and, more specifically, to reduce
eliminating single use water bottles and straws.
the use and waste of single-use plastics.
Reusable and portable water bottles are readily
a growing food movement available as are reusable straws. “These are simple
working to reduce the
changes that I think most people can adapt to,” she
environmental impact
said.
and protect their workers. Heather also
Energy efficiency - use your appliances during off-
suggests that buying
peak hours. Don’t run the water while brushing your
second hand is a great
teeth. Simple, common sense measures.
way to reduce waste
Buying from local farmers is not only good for CO2
and pollution.
footprint, but it’s better for your community, better
“We always try to look for used items as much as
for your bodies to eat organic.
possible.”
Grow some of your own food. Take a gardening
What have been the most challenging changes
class. Make use of resources from the local UGA
you have made and what did you learn through
Cooperative Extension.
the process that you wish you’d known sooner?
The textile industry is a very dirty industry - there
Around 2018, National Geographic released the
are things used that are detrimental to the
article stating that only 9% of all US recycling
environment and the people who work there. Seek
is actually recycled. Back in the late 90s when
out companies that offer transparency and are
recycling began, plastic was marketed as being (con tinued on page 28)
27
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 2 7)
recyclable, so there was a sense that using plastic
are made
wasn’t so bad.
of silicone, we’ve had our
It was disheartening to know that recycling isn’t
first set of 5
solving the problem.
for 5 years
“It’s a lot harder to look at what you’re purchasing and make choices based on that. Packaging that is not plastic… it’s hard to make that shift. I wish that I had known sooner and could have made that switch sooner to keep from having consumed so much plastic.” We participate in “Plastic free July” to make an effort to focus on reducing our use of plastic. “I think ‘Plastic Free’ being a name for a movement has kind of scared some people off. So, every year, we pick one new thing that we’re not going to use anymore and switch to a reusable.” 28
and still use them. Khala Cloths are a brand of beeswax coated cloth wraps that can replace plastic wrap, they are both reusable and biodegradable. “We have and make and sell reusable bags for the produce at the grocery store, and even we forget sometimes to take them”, Michael admits. So, keeping them at the door or in the vehicle is a great way to make sure you have them with you when you get to the store.
As part of that process in the course of a normal day, I used my note function on the phone to note
What do you think is the biggest hurdle for people
everything I touched that was plastic. There is a
to start living more sustainably?
place for some plastics but not everything needs to be made from plastic.
“I think overwhelm is a big part of it,” Heather says.
It’s hard to avoid plastic especially in food
of plastic in the ocean or other overwhelming
packaging. But that packaging can be washed and reused. As Michael explained, “the fruit that we get for our smoothies comes in a plastic bag, but we wash that out and keep it and reuse it. It works perfectly well, you don’t have to go out and buy new plastic when it’s already there in your hands.” There are products out there that are reusable and can replace many types of single use plastics like plastic wrap and sandwich bags. Stasher bags
When presented with images of massive amounts images, it can make one just want to look the other way. The other issue is that it’s hard to understand how as an individual what you do can possibly matter. Just take it one item at a time. Fight perfectionism and be real about it. You may not be able to achieve “zero waste” but you CAN reduce your waste. “There’s a perception that going green costs
a growing food movement
money,” Michael explains, “Khala Cloths cost money
You can make your own detergents and household
- it’s cotton, it’s beeswax, it’s labor - it cost money.
cleaners. There are lots of instructions online for
But it’s an upfront cost. We have not bought plastic
making them.
wrap in 4 years, so you recoup that cost over time.” I see that you guys own an Electric Vehicle. What would you say to someone who is thinking about buying one? We bought our electric vehicle used a couple years ago. It’s a 2013 Nissa Leaf. There is battery degradation that takes place over time which limits the amount of miles it can go. The newer vehicles have addressed that issue and can go further. We use it as an about town kind of car. Heather takes it to work everyday and we use it to run errands and it’s a fantastic car. All we do is plug into a 120 volt outlet during off-peak hours and it costs literally dollars a month to use it every day. We get 50 city miles on an 80% charge (the battery is not charged to full capacity to protect the life of the battery). Some people say that going green costs a lot of money. What are some inexpensive, DIY ways to go green? We take bath towels that have become frayed and cut them up and use them in place of paper towels and napkins. They are perfectly fine, they are washable, there’s no added expense. And it reduces the need to buy single use paper items with plastic packaging. There’s a second use for a lot of things. We use our yard and grow things that we can use.
There are few maintenance issues. It’s saved a lot of money in gas and lowered our carbon footprint immensely over the last few years. We love it and highly recommend it. What’s next...? One of our big goals is to sell this house in a few years and get in a tiny home somewhere and live off-grid. We’re really excited about that and researching that and trying to figure out how to make that happen.
We grow bamboo which we use for our reusable straws and we also grow our own luffa.
(con tinued on page 38)
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
29
30
Southern SOIL
30
(Photo: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org)
a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: New Jersey Tea Ceanothus americanus
By Eamonn Leonard eamonn.leonard@dnr.ga.gov
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.
Description and Native Habitat
Garden Uses
New Jersey Tea is a shrub in the buckthorn family
As with all plant material you are considering, you
(Rhamnaceae) and has many other names, red
need to evaluate all aspects of its temperament
root, redshank, soap flower, wild snow ball, snow
to determine if it will be a good fit. Certain
bush, and mountain lilac to name a few. It grows
characteristics could be a positive in one situation
as a compact, rounded, deciduous shrub 2-3’ tall
or a negative in another. It also depends on what
and wide in sun to part shade covered in elongated
soil type, soil moisture, and light conditions you
clusters of white flowers for about a month in late
have as well as the aesthetic you are going for in
spring to early summer.
your home garden design.
Flowers are followed by dark brown round capsules
One tough plant: The fact that this shrub develops
that eventually explode to disperse seed in its
a deep extensive root system is a positive attribute
natural environment. It is found in areas with well
as it makes it much more resilient to dry and
drained gravely to sandy soils with an extremely
droughty conditions. Once established. It can
wide range that covers much of the eastern United
have a relatively slow growth rate because it is
states (Bonap.com).
expending resources to develop its deep root system.
This is a tough plant suited to dry soil because of its extensive root system. In the Coastal Plain of
This feature can make it take a while for the
Georgia, it is often found in sandy upland plant
above-ground portion to create substantial growth.
communities dominated by longleaf pine and
However, the deep root system on established
wiregrass. As this is a fire-maintained community,
plants makes them difficult to transplant. So just
New Jersey tea tolerates periodic prescribed burns.
make sure you plant it exactly where you want it. (con tinued on page 32)
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
31
(Photo: Ansel Oommen, Bugwood.org Spring Azure)
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 3 1)
This species also tends to sucker once established which can be a benefit if used in a hillside stabilization or an erosion control situation. In the home landscape this tendency to sucker might make this plant better suited for massing in low maintenance more natural style landscape (Foote & Jones 1998).
(Celastrina neglecta), and mottled duskywing (Erynnis martialis) feed on the flowers, flower buds, and fruit of the New Jersey tea (Wynia, 2010).
32
(Photo: Rebekah D. Wallace, University of Georgia, Bugwood.org)
As tough as this plant is, it is not resistant to wildlife browsing as deer and rabbit find it quite tasty, so will need protection when first planted until established. This shrub does recover well after fire, so this is a benefit if you are using prescribed fire to manage your landscape.
(Photo: Christa Hayes Summer Azure butterfly)
Attract pollinators: The flowers of New Jersey tea
Provide food: Two important game species
are not only attractive to the human eye they also
(turkeys and quail) use the seeds as a food source
attract many native pollinators including butterflies,
(Wynia, 2010).
moths, wasps, bees, flies, and beetles. The flowers are a source for nectar and pollen.
Other uses: New Jersey tea was named Herb
This shrub is also a host plant for several species
as the 2019 Wildflower of the Year by the Virginia
of butterfly (Lotts et al., 2017). Caterpillars of the
Native Plant Society. As its name implies, the dried
spring azure (Celastrina ladon), summer azure
leaves have been used as a source to make a
Society of America Native Plant of 2019 as well
a growing food movement
caffeine-free tea-like drink especially popular during
Hale, K. (2019). ‘New Jersey Tea: Making You
the Revolutionary War.
an Offer You Shouldn’t Refuse’ [Herb Society of America Blog online]. Available at: https://
Flowers make light green dye. The rest of the plant
herbsocietyblog.wordpress.com/2019/03/06/
makes a cinnamon red dye (Hale, 2019). The roots
new-jersey-tea-making-you-an-offer-you-
yield a red dye and have a variety of medicinal uses.
shouldnt-refuse (Accessed 2021-01-28)
Flowers contain saponins and will create a lather when crushed and mixed with water (VA Native Plant Society, 2019). Propagation: “Propagation by seed is best; cloth bags will help catch the seeds as fruits mature; brief scarifying with hot water (180 °F to 200 °F) followed by stratification at ca 40 °F for two or three months will improve seed germination.” (VA Native Plant Society 2019). Do not wild collect any species without landowner permission. Look for reputable
Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP). 2015. North American Plant Atlas. (http://bonap.net/napa). Chapel Hill, N.C. [maps generated from Kartesz, J.T. 2015. Floristic Synthesis of North America, Version 1.0. Biota of North America Program (BONAP). (in press)]. Lotts, Kelly and Thomas Naberhaus, coordinators. 2017. Butterflies and Moths of North America. Data set accessed 2021-01-28
native plant nurseries that supply this species
at http://www.butterfliesandmoths.org/.
from sustainable sources. Check out the list of
Virginia Native Plant Society (2019). ‘Wildflower
recommended native plant nurseries compiled
of the Year 2019 New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus
by the Georgia Native Plant initiative. https://
americanus)’ [online]. Available at: https://vnps.
botgarden.uga.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/
org/2019-wildflower-of-the-year-new-jersey-tea-
Directory-of-Native-Plant-Nurseries.pdf
ceanothus-americanus/ (Accessed 2021-01-28)
References:
Foote, L.E., Jones S.B. 1998. Native Shrubs and Woody Vines of the Southeast: Landscaping uses and identification. 91 p. Timber Press, Inc.,
Wynia, R.L. 2010. Plant fact sheet for New Jersey tea (Ceanothus americanus). USDA-Natural Resources Conservation Service, Manhattan Plant Materials Center. Manhattan, KS 66502.
Portland OR.
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
33
34
Southern SOIL
34
Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
St. Patrick’s Day Parmesan Shepherd’s Pie Two Ways In the spirit of St. Patrick’s Day, I’m sharing my version of Shepherd’s Pie, a hearty meat pie, topped with mashed potatoes. At my house, whenever leftover mashed potatoes are around, you can bet Shepherd’s Pie will be on the menu soon. Cheesy, warm and full of vegetables, the flavors are familiar and cleanup is easy. It’s a meat and three in one! Using a cast iron skillet makes the job super simple. Shepherd’s Pie has been around for centuries, and there are a ton of variations on the recipe. Traditionally, the dish is made with lamb, garden peas and corn. Because ground beef, and even venison, is more readily available, they are common meats to use in the South. When it comes to cheeses, sharp cheddar and fresh Parmesan cheese make a winning combination. Parmesan gives it a salty bite and works wonderfully with creamy potatoes. I love hearing the timer sing and pulling this comforting skillet out of the oven, perfectly browned on the top and bubbling around the
sides. From stovetop to oven, this recipe is ready to eat in 35 minutes. For a fun twist, perfect for picnics, try making mini-shepherd’s pies. The step-by-step recipe is available on my food blog. I baked these for a co-worker picnic once in Savannah’s Forsyth Park, and they were a huge hit! Store bought pie crusts make a warm, flaky crust and help keep the filling together. The pies are baked in a muffin pan to create the most delicious bite. You can find our entire festive menu and more St. Patrick’s Day recipes, like my green mint chocolate chip cookies, orange marmalade thumbprint cookies or Irish mojitos by visiting . Now, for an old Irish blessing: May the road rise up to meet you, may the wind always be at your back, may the sun shine warm upon your face and rains fall soft upon your fields, and until we meet again, may God hold you in the palm of his hand.”
(con tinued on page 36)
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
35
Southern SOIL (con tinued f r om page 35)
Parmesan Shepherd’s Pie
1-2 cups mashed potatoes
½ cup English peas
1 pound lean ground beef or venison
2 Tbsp All-Purpose Flour
1 medium onion, chopped
2 teaspoons Tomato Paste
Garlic salt
1 cup beef broth
Pepper
1 tablespoon Worcestershire
Crushed Red Pepper Flakes
½ cup Parmesan
Dried Oregano
½ cup Sharp Cheddar
½ cup frozen corn kernels
36
In a cast iron skillet, saute ground beef and onion until beef is brown. Add seasonings: garlic salt, pepper, crushed red pepper flakes and dried oregano. Sprinkle the meat with the flour and toss to coat, continuing to cook for another minute. Add the tomato paste, chicken broth, Worcestershire and stir to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer slowly 10 to 12 minutes or until the sauce is thickened slightly. Add frozen corn and peas and cook until incorporated. Top mixture with grated Parmesan cheese. Gently spread leftover mashed potatoes evenly over the top. Sprinkle with remaining cheddar cheese. Dot with butter. Bake at 425 for 25 minutes until hot & bubbly. Let cool five minutes before serving. Enjoy!
Shepherd’sPie: Parmesan Shepherd’s Pie, a meat and three in one, is the ultimate comfort food for a cool spring day. All photos in this article are courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
37
Mini: Mini Shepherd’s Pies make the perfect bite for a hearty picnic snack.
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL
(con tinued f r om page 2 9)
Tiny homes are 40-50% more energy-efficient than traditional single family homes. As home footprints get larger and larger, there’s fragmentation of ecosystems. And we all suffer as animal habitats are lost. We’ll be consuming less. It’s a model of living a very rich life but you don’t need things to fill it with. We have a goal of growing more of our own foods. We are adding more native plants for pollinators and will be planting more fruit trees here on this property. To learn more about the O’Sullivan’s journey in green living and to see the products they offer, visit their website!
38
Th
orm w k oo B e
a growing food movement
reading the best and weeding the rest A BOOK REVIEW BY LEEANNA TATUM OF THE COLOR OF FOOD: STORIES OF RACE, RESILIENCE AND FARMING BY NATASHA BOWENS The Color of Food: Stories of Race, Resilience and Farming written by Natasha Bowens shares the stories of those often underrepresented in the agricultural community. Her portraits paint a vibrant picture of America’s farming community today and it’s checkered past. Bowens, a self-described “Brown Girl Farming”, frequently found herself feeling out of place as the only woman of color participating in agricultural-related events like conferences, farmers markets and community gardens. “There I was, barefoot in the mud wondering, ‘Why am I the only brown person here? This whole organic farming thing can’t just be for hipsters. I mean, we all come from the land, so why does it seem like young White folks are the only ones going back to it? People of color farm too, right?’”
Black people don’t respect the Black farmer. It’s something we have to overcome … I’ve realized you have to change the conversation. It’s about land ownership and what that’s allowed us to do. We start talking about the value of the land and what it has done for us as a people and it helps to change that stigma a little bit.” The Color of Food allows the reader to gain a better understanding of our agricultural landscape as a whole through the eyes of many different groups of people throughout the country - gaining insights and perspectives that often go unseen in traditional depictions of America’s 39 farmers.
Setting out across the country, Bowen discovered that not only are people of color returning to the land, but many never left it - providing a rich history of Native Americans, Black Americans, Asians and Hispanics who have contributed and continue to contribute to the rich tapestry of agriculture in this country. Her portraits provide insight into the hurdles uniquely faced by farmers of color due to discriminatory practices, denied access to land, and cultural stigma that have made farming particularly difficult for these groups. However, there are also stories of persistence, perseverance and triumph. Bowen also addresses the cultural stigma toward farming and “returning to the land” as many African Americans still associate farming with slavery. Gary Grant of the Black Farmers and Agriculturists Association is quoted as saying, “The Black community, because of slavery, has a disdain for agriculture … We as
ISSUE ~ 1 ~ 2021
Southern SOIL
40
Help us spread the word! Pull up a chair and join the conversation. Follow us on social media.
