Southern
SOIL a growing food
Volume 5
winter issue 2022
movement
THE HUNT FOR QUAIL
PAGE 28 \ FINDING CONNECTIONS
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Contents
a growing food movement
08
14
GET GOING WITH KIRA KING
BRINGING CITRUS TO SOUTHEAST GEORGIA
PAGE 08 \ WHAT TO DO THIS WINTER
PAGE 14 \ FRANKLIN’S CITRUS
20
24
28
SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT
CHEF’S TABLE
THE HUNT FOR QUAIL
PAGE 24 \ 401 WEST
PAGE 28 \ FINDING CONNECTIONS
PAGE 20 \ CJ’S PRODUCE
04....... EDITORIAL 36....... NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT
40...... SOME KINDA GOOD
VOLUME 5
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Editorial
now have a podcast! If you haven’t yet, please give it a listen! The Southern Soil Podcast can be found pretty much wherever you are already listening to podcasts. Or you can find it on our host platform
Southern Soil is in its fifth year of publication!
Anchor. New episodes come out on Tuesdays!
It’s hard to believe, even as I write this, it seems like only yesterday that I started this remarkable
But most importantly, you can always find our
journey. I am really looking forward to this coming
podcasts and ALL of our content in one place -
year.
www.southernsoil.org. Please make a habit of checking there regularly! New content is available
Year five may not mean much to some, but if
every week - whether our latest blog or a podcast
you’ve ever planted a fruit tree … you know that the
episode, and you can also get caught up on
fifth year can be pretty exciting! Most fruit trees
anything you may have missed. All of our past
need about 5 years before they really begin to be
issues of the digital magazine are available there
productive.
along with a business directory that can help you
Well, I should clarify - they’ve been productive
4
find local food near you!
all along! Busily putting down roots, taking up
We would like to rely less and less on social media
nutrients, growing branches, getting established.
to connect with our audience (though will of course
But once that work is done, they can really begin to
keep an active presence there) as we have very
produce fruit!
little control over who actually ends up seeing our
I feel that is very representative of what has been going on with Southern Soil. Those first four years were very important and full of a lot of hard work.
content. So, the best way to stay informed and connected to your local food community is by heading over to our homepage!
Building a brand and a business from the ground
This year, our online magazine will come out in
up is not easy and not for the faint of heart! But I
four issues and at the end of the year, we will offer
believe that this is the year when the fruit will really
you the opportunity to order a printed copy of a
begin to take shape.
2022 Compilation Issue. This printed issue will
We’re becoming recognized as a voice for the local food movement here in Southeast Georgia, people
contain content from each of the four digital issues published this year.
are taking notice, our audience is growing and our
Our four issues will be based on the seasons:
influence is spreading. This year will be an exciting
Winter Issue, Spring Issue, Summer Issue and Fall
year - and just to make a quick pitch here - if you’ve
Issue.
been thinking of advertising with us, now is the time!
In our modern lives we have lost touch with the natural seasons and rhythms of the world around
We’re making a few changes in 2022. First off, we
us.
a growing food movement
Air conditioning and heating systems regulate the
available locally that time of year. When you become
temperatures within our homes, vehicles and work
aware of the foods that are in season around you,
environments so that regardless of the weather
you may begin to see a correlation in the types of
outside, we can stay comfortably neutral indoors.
foods your body craves and whether or not those cravings shift throughout the year.
Advancements in transportation, refrigeration, preservatives and storage means that our grocery
In nature, the seasons all serve a purpose to
stores can stock fruits and vegetables year-round,
help life thrive. We as humans are not quite
whether they are in season locally or not - the produce departments’ equivalent to “it’s five o’clock somewhere”.
so removed from the natural world as we sometimes seem to think we are, we are a part of nature not separate from it. It might behoove us to get more in tune
Our jobs, though sometimes
with our surroundings.
cyclical in nature, are often very much the same day in
Winter is a season for rest,
and day out, regardless of
reflection, solitude and
the season.
restoration. Spring is a time of rebirth, energy, vitality
All of these factors in our
and abundant life. Summer
(and by “our” I’m
is a time of celebration and
basically referring
growth while Fall offers the
to American society
opportunity to harvest and prepare
in general) lives
for the future.
are fairly recent within a generation
As we move from this
or two. And as we’ve
period of rest into one of
become more separate from
reawakening, let’s take
the natural world around us
a little time to reflect on
in so many ways, we’ve lost
the ways that we can stay
touch with the purpose and beauty of the seasons and the ways that our bodies crave to reconnect with the rhythms of the earth.
connected to the seasons through our food and by doing so - support the efforts of our local farmers and producers and maybe even support our overall health in the process.
This year, we will be focusing on the seasons. My hope is that we can help bring awareness back to the subtle differences in seasons and to help educate consumers on what is
LeeAnna Tatum
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
VOLUME 5
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Southern
SOIL a growing food
movement
FOL L OW US www.southernsoil.org
C ONTAC T US 6
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8
Photos courtesy of Kira King
a growing food movement
Get Goingwith Kira King Kira King has a 4-acre homestead in Savannah, Georgia with her husband, daughter, and menagerie of animals. After graduating from the University of Georgia with a journalism degree, she began her own social media marketing company which over time morphed into a homesteading blog and podcast. The Homestead Kings treasure local and sustainable food practices beginning in the home, the simple lifestyle that homesteading provides, and the companionship they share with their animals. They didn’t grow up in the homesteading or farming way of life, but Kira says they got there as quickly as possible and still learn something new every day.
Wh a t t o d o t hi s W i nt e r 9
Just Start & Go
In the Garden
Winter
What could possibly be happening in southeast Georgia gardens during the short winter months? Actually, a lot! Our
As humans, we tend to over-evaluate some things and
cool winters are a great time to grow some of those cooler
ignore others altogether. Gardening, homesteading,
crops like kale, lettuce, broccoli, beets, turnips, radishes,
and homemaking are some of these things. In a digital,
and more. Leafy greens and brassicas tend to love cooler
convenience-driven world, it’s easy to see growing food, food
weather. These slower months are also a great time to
preservation, and keeping a home as outdated practices, but
prepare your vegetable beds or areas, even if it’s just a pot on
I’m here to tell you, friends, outdated has made a comeback!
your patio.
It’s time to get back in touch with the traditions that our ancestors learned (through trial and error) and further our
Grab a handful of soil. How does it look? Is it dark and black
physical and mental health. The digital, convenient age can
or light and sandy? Is it kind of squishy or does it fall through
be fast-paced and entertaining, but I challenge you to slow
your fingers like sand? If it’s sandy and gray, it’s time to
down on purpose and try one thing a season that’s new
amend your soil. Plant health starts with soil health so soil
(to you). Before you know it, you may be a veggie-growing,
health directly affects the nutritional value a certain plant will
fermentation, house-organizing master. The time is now to
have and carry to us when digested. You can amend your
just start and go!
soil in a number of ways. Savannah Victory Gardens sells (con tinued on page 10)
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(con tinued f r om page 9)
a wonderful compost potting mixture that can be bought
forest, and I can still taste last year’s nectarines (because I’m
in small to very large quantities at very reasonable prices.
literally still eating jars of them). Mmmm.
Or if you have livestock or chickens, you can compost their manure to use it in your garden beds.
If you have chickens or livestock, now is a great time to do a big coop or pen cleanout. With the deep litter method, you
Not ready for an annual vegetable garden? No problem!
don’t have to clean your coop regularly, but at least twice
Late winter to early spring is the perfect time to plant those
a year (depending on size) is a good goal to have. If you’re
blueberry shrubs or fruit trees. The sooner you get your
looking to add to your flock, have you ordered your birds
fruits in the ground, the sooner you’ll be enjoying their sweet
yet or looked at local groups to find the chicks, ducklings,
deliciousness on a warm, summer’s day.
goslings, whatever?! Be sure to check your county’s animal ordinance before you commit to any animal.
Overall, winter is the perfect time for planning your garden. Sip some warm tea while perusing those seed catalogs and try not to get carried away. Just kidding! Order as many seeds as your heart (& wallet) desires! Savannah Victory
In the Home
Gardens also hosts early Spring Plant Sales so leave some
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room in the budget to visit them for a fabulous selection of
While you may not be harvesting large quantities of produce
seeds, vegetable & herb transplants, and edible shrubs and
right now from the garden, that doesn’t mean that there isn’t
trees! They single-handedly supplied our homestead’s food
plenty to keep you occupied on those blustery winter days.
a growing food movement
Winter is designed to force you to slow down so make sure
to share) It’s basically making your own healthy soda
to soak in some good books and cozy time before the time
replacement that tastes good and is good for you. Winning.
changes. Intentionally slowing down doesn’t always mean slowing down. In fact, when you have ample time inside, it’s
Another item to experiment with while the temperature
the perfect time to try some things out, like fermentation!
of your house is positively influenced by the oven on is bread-making. Bread-making can be intimidating, but if you
Fermentation is an ancient form of food preservation
do a quick, online search for easy, quick-rise bread recipes,
performed by humans dating all the way back to the
you’ll be inundated with delicious go-to ways to make your
Neolithic era. Did you know fermentation is not just for food?
own bread. Why would you do that you ask? Because it
You can even ferment water into a kefir. healthline.com
tastes so much better.
describes water kefir as, “a beverage favored for both its
Even loaves you
fizzy flavor and impressive health benefits. Besides packing
may “mess up,” will
a powerful punch of probiotics, this tasty drink has also been
still taste amazing,
shown to amp up immunity, slow cancer cell growth, and
especially toasted with
improve overall health.” And, you can make it in your own
a little butter. If you’re
kitchen! All you need is some water kefir grains, sugar, and a
interested in a more
jar. (Grains can be found here: https://shop.culturesforhealth.
complex bread that doesn’t require store-bought yeast, try
com or if you know someone with grains and they’re willing
making a sourdough starter. After the initial set-up time, your (con tinued on page 12)
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(con tinued f r om page 11)
starter will help you achieve beautiful, crunchy, and naturally
Music can make even the most simple, mundane things feel
risen bread loaves.
magical and fun. Turn on some good music while you’re dusting the fans or vacuuming, and all of a sudden, you’ve
On to homemaking. Homemaking is one of the noblest
gone from a cleaning checklist to a dance party without an
works. Making a house into a cozy, well-managed, and
ounce of drudgery.
welcoming home, one that you enjoy so much that even Covid lockdowns can’t make you have cabin fever, is
Winter is the perfect time to sit, look around and enjoy your
quite frankly a gift. It’s not just about the cleaning and the
home. Making it a place that you enjoy doesn’t have to
organizing, it’s about the atmosphere, and winter is the
cost a lot of money. It’s not about what design trend is next
perfect time to intentionally look around your space and
or if there isn’t a speck of dust. It’s all about comfort and
evaluate what needs to be done. Do the curtains need
hospitality. We are, after all, in the South.
washing? Does the chest of drawers need sorting? Does the kitchen need to be reorganized? Will that lamp look better in
So there you have it. Don’t spend all winter waiting for spring.
another room? Maybe that wall needs a fresh coat of paint?
Utilize this time. Learn something new and prepare for the
How about music? Does your home have a soundtrack?
whirlwind that is spring in the South.
Grapefruit Olive Oil Cake with Greek Yogurt Grapefruit Icing 12
•
2 3/4 cups brown rice or almond flour
•
3/4 cups coconut flour
•
3 teaspoons baking powder
•
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
•
1/2 teaspoon salt
•
1 cup coconut sugar
•
1/2 cup monk fruit sweetener or maple sugar
•
1/2 cup granulated sugar
•
1/2 cup grapefruit juice, freshly squeezed
•
1 grapefruit, zested
•
1 cup plain Greek yogurt
•
5 large eggs
•
1 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Icing Recipe: •
1 cup Greek yogurt
•
1/3 grapefruit juice (& some pulp or zest if you’d like)
•
1 1/2 cup powdered sugar
•
Splash of vanilla extract
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Cake Directions: •
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
•
Combine dry ingredients in one bowl.
•
Combine wet ingredients in another bowl.
•
Slowly stir wet ingredients into dry ingredients until smooth.
•
Grease your cake pan.
•
Pour in batter & bake for 35 minutes or until a toothpick comes out of the center cleanly.
Icing Directions: •
Pour yogurt, grapefruit juice & vanilla into mixing bowl.
•
Turn mixer on low.
•
Slowly add powdered sugar until smooth consistency.
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Bringing Citrus to Southeast Georgia: Franklin’s Citrus
By LeeAnna Tatum
If you look up “citrus-producing States” you won’t
him busy. But on one fishing trip to Louisiana, he
find Georgia on the list. But if you live here in South
discovered something that piqued his interest - the
Georgia, you may have noticed that “local oranges”
Satsuma.
actually do exist. While nowhere near the level of top-producing States like: Florida, California, Texas
“We had always gone to Louisiana for redfish and
and Arizona; Georgia is proving to be fertile ground
trout in the spring, but in 2009, we decided to go
for growing citrus.
in the fall,” Joe recalled. “So, we went out there in November and while we were there, the Satsumas
Perhaps due to warming winters and a greater
were in and different farmers were selling them at
variety of cold-tolerant cultivars, the fruit is finding
roadside stands. And we saw ‘Satsumas’ and we
its way further North and settling in nicely here in
looked at each other and were like, ‘what the hell’s a
the parts of Georgia where soils are sandy to loamy
Satsuma?’”
and temperatures only occasionally dip to freezing. “We’d never heard of it, so we stopped and got One man is at least partially responsible for this
some and that was the best tasting citrus we’d ever
growing trend in Georgia agriculture.
put in our mouths!”
Joe Franklin, a native of Statesboro, spent most of his life in the restaurant industry. His parents opened Franklin’s Restaurant in the 50s at the intersection of highways 80 and 301. Open 24 hours a day, they served travelers and locals alike and quickly became a landmark for the City. Joe retired from the restaurant business after 39 years in 2004, but eventually found a new way to entice travelers and locals to pull over on Hwy 301 a roadside market for his growing citrus business! Joe spent a few years living the good life of the retired with plenty of fishing and hunting to keep
When he got back home, Joe did some research and decided that if they could grow in Louisiana, he should be able to grow them in Statesboro. So, he bought 200 trees from Louisiana and brought them (con tinued on page 16)
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(con tinued f r om page 15)
home to plant over two acres of land. In 2013, he added five more acres; and then continued to add on around five acres in the consecutive years that followed. Franklin’s Citrus now grows about 12,000 trees on 75 acres. In addition to adding to the size of the farm, Joe also continued to add different varieties including: Meyer Lemons, Yuzu, grapefruit, Golden Nugget Mandarins and Georgia Kisses. Fifteen different varieties of Satsumas helps ensure an
ripening in time for Thanksgiving, followed by
extended Satsuma season.
lemons and grapefruit in December and ending up
Citrus season in Georgia begins as early as October
with the Golden Nugget Mandarins in January.
and runs through January. Satsumas get things
“We finish off the season with Gold Nugget
started early in the fall, with the Georgia Kisses
Mandarins,” explained Bill Renz, Franklin Citrus
16
Photo provided by Franklin Citrus
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partner and marketing manager. “This year was
Bringing a new product to market takes years of
our first sizable crop where we could take them
planning and preparation. Commercial nurseries have a waiting list for new trees and, once planted, it takes several years for the young trees to become productive. “You’re looking at four to five years before we get a viable crop that we can take to market,” Bill said. “And you’re looking at one to two years before you can even get the trees. It’s hit or miss in the retail industry but if you’re looking to add a sizable amount of acreage you have to get on the waiting list.”
to market and really had a lot of people try them out. We started with just a few trees and saw that it would work and it’s been something we’ve been
Franklin’s Citrus has focused primarily on supplying the local market.
working towards. (con tinued on page 16)
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“We started selling in farmers’ markets - Statesboro
announced the formation of the Sweet Citrus Valley
and Forsyth Market in Savannah,” Joe explained.
and we’re going to promote ourselves as a group
“And we’ve been going to Bluffton, South Carolina
like Indian River Citrus. We’ve got a good marketing
and Port Royal. Kind of got known for having good
team and a grant to get this thing going.”
citrus. And we opened up a farmstand here on 301 about four years ago and it’s just done unbelievably
“We’re looking for big things out of the citrus
well. We’ve almost doubled our sales every year.”
industry in Georgia. They’re predicting within the next 3 or 5 years, we’ll have 30 million pounds of
Photo provided by Franklin Citrus
citrus and that’s a heck of a lot,” Joe concluded. When asked about the future of Georgia’s citrus industry over the next five to ten years, Joe responded, “I think you’ll see our products all over the Eastern United States, I really do. I think it’s going to be a heck of a business in years to come.” Local growers are working together to become more competitive with the large producers out of California. And the recently established Satsuma Company in Tifton, Georgia plans to become
18
a central packaging and distribution point for Satsumas grown in South Georgia and the Florida Panhandle. “The Satsuma Company in Tifton is going to be a buying point for everybody in Georgia, Alabama and Florida…” Joe explained. “Just recently, they
Joe plans to continue to add more acres and more varieties to the citrus farm over the years. And while he is looking to grow and find new markets, he hasn’t lost sight of his local customers. “We’re going to keep growing, keep planting new things. They have new varieties coming out all the time and I think you have to stay ahead of the game … but our local market has been good to us and we’ll keep selling here locally.”
Editor’s Note
a growing food movement
It is unusual for us to highlight a farm that uses conventional methods of growing. Part of our mission at Southern Soil is to promote and celebrate sustainable and regenerative agriculture within our local food communities. However, there are a number of important reasons to support our local citrus growers. I’ll lay out a few of the reasons why I choose to support this local business. As always, I recommend that you get to know your farmers and the methods they use; then make your own decisions about whether that is something you want to support or not. Local is better. For me, choosing to purchase from a local farm is always the better option. I don’t know about you, but I love citrus. And I don’t often see organic citrus at the grocery stores near me. And even if I did - there are still good reasons to buy it locally instead. Less fuel is consumed getting the product to the consumer. The money stays in the local community. Shorter time between harvest and consumption means the food stays fresh and maintains higher levels of nutrition. Speaking of fresh. Picked at peak freshness and as needed to fill orders, these local oranges are as fresh as they get. With no waxy coating needed and no cold storage for weeks prior to sales. Water conservation. Citrus grown in Georgia’s more loamy soils (as opposed to the sandy soils of Florida) require significantly less water. At Franklin Citrus, a drip system is used which also saves water over the more traditional sprinkler systems used elsewhere. Water is good! We also do not have an unlimited supply of it. I see this as a major point in favor of local citrus.
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Biodiversity and food security. The climate is changing. Natural disasters occur. Supply chains get disrupted. We’ve all seen plenty of evidence of these things just in the past two years. California, Florida, Texas and Arizona currently grow most of the country’s citrus. A widespread natural disaster in any of these states can severely disrupt and deplete the supply. The more geographically diverse the growing range is, the better. Also, we need farmers who are willing to take the risk and try to grow and develop crops here in Georgia that haven’t necessarily been done in the past. By taking on the task of growing citrus and learning which varieties do well and which do not, these farmers are helping develop the cultivars that will be most resilient in our climate. They are taking the financial risk to make these discoveries and to improve our ability to grow citrus successfully here in the future. Let’s help make those risks pay off. Soil conservation. Franklin’s Citrus is being grown on 75 acres that used to host commodity crops. Now planted with trees, this soil is not being tilled regularly and will not receive anywhere near the same levels of chemical inputs that traditional crops like corn and cotton require. That’s a win in my book. Over the years, I have learned that often our ideals and desire for “perfection” get in the way of the good. There’s a lot of good happening, let’s not lose sight of that by wishing things were perfect! VOLUME 5
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Small Farm
Spotlight
I n t h is series, g et t o kn o w mo re a b o u t t h e sma ll far m o p era t io n s t h a t a re u sin g su st a in a b le met h o d s t o help meet t h e lo ca l d ema n d f o r f resh f o o d . An d meet the f a rmers t h a t a re ma kin g it h a p p en !
E
stablished in 2017, CJ’s Produce
and include a variety of flavors. C-Pops have no
founded by Craig Thomas is
artificial coloring, additives or preservatives.
headquartered in Garden City. Named
for Craig’s young son, Craig Jr., CJ’s Produce is an urban agribusiness dedicated to providing fresh produce to food deserts and helping communities develop the means of growing healthy food.
20
In addition to growing produce that is available through Forsyth Farmers’ Market’s Food Truck program, Craig also offers services and products including: consultation, planter boxes, herb tables, and in-ground plots. Craig has also developed a line of real fruit popsicles that have proven popular with adults
a growing food movement
Craig’s love of gardening grew from a challenge from his father who insisted that a lot of good lessons could be learned from gardening. From that first simple garden that he planted, Craig developed a passion for plants and for feeding his community. When Craig’s son CJ also showed promise as a natural gardener, the two began spending time together growing produce. But this family affair was destined to grow even more when Craig met fellow agriculture enthusiast (and now wife), Leslie. Leslie works for the UGA Extension Office and Craig continues his full time job away from farming. But Craig is always looking to take on more garden spaces and continue to
21
grow his urban farm. To learn more about CJ’s, check out their website, https://cjsproduce.com.
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Chef’s TABLE In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.
Chef’s Table: 401 West - St. Marys 24
Article by: LeeAnna Tatum
Come for the sunsets. Stay for the experience. Keep coming back for the food! 401 West in St Mary’s is in a prime location and offers up some truly spectacular views of St. Mary’s River and gorgeous sunsets which are reason
there are plenty of menu favorites that stay
enough to be sure to add this restaurant to your
substantially consistent with just a few seasonal
itinerary when in town.
adjustments.
But, by all means, don’t miss out on the food!
Chef and owner Bill Shaffer is a first time restaurateur but has spent his entire career in the
With an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients;
food and restaurant industry. Bill had hopes of
the menu, like the weather, will change marginally
opening a small 40 seat restaurant downtown St.
with the seasons as ingredients shift throughout
Mary’s when he discovered a private residence for
the year. But for those who crave predictability,
sale in a prime location. Too good to pass up, he
a growing food movement
Take time to enjoy the sunset! took a chance on the larger venue and 401 West
and that’s great news for anyone looking to get a
was born.
delicious meal while supporting local producers!
Before getting a full year under their belt, the doors
Having worked as a corporate buyer for a retail
had to be temporarily closed due to Covid; so Bill is
chain, Bill knew that when he opened his own
still waiting to find out what a “normal” year will look
restaurant he wanted to forgo the middleman
like! Despite the difficulties, they have persevered
and work directly with the people growing and producing the ingredients he used. “I genuinely believe in having that direct connection with my food and I think that’s important,” Bill explained. Bill places a priority on sourcing locally because of the quality of the food, but also because of the relationships that are built and the investment in the local community.
A quick peak in the kitchen... happy crew =
(con tinued on page 26)
yummy food!
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(con tinued f r om page 24)
“I want people to come here and feel like they got
for sitting outside, but just about everyone made
a great value. Our prices are indicative of food
their way out on the deck in time to watch the sun
that is made in house with quality ingredients. But
bid us all a glorious goodbye for the day.
I looked the guy in the eye who raised that bison and I’m buying chicken from Brandon who lives up
Chef sent out a delicious array of items from the
the street and it cost him money to do what he’s
menu including two starters: Bacon Balls and
doing and we’re paying him a fair rate … I guess
Southern Poutine. Much as their name implies,
what people should understand is that we take
Bacon Balls are fried dough with bacon in the
your experience seriously and we want you to
center and a dipping sauce for dunking. The
understand that food comes from a place.”
poutine is a rich combination of house-cut fries smothered in a gravy and topped with smoked pork and pimento cheese and balanced out with some homemade pickles.
I visited 401 West on my way down to Florida with a friend. Just minutes off the interstate, it’s a convenient place to plan a meal break while traveling without having to settle for the usual fare! That’s if you’re not already in the area or making a special trip to St. Mary’s (which you should totally do!). 26
They are open Wednesday through Friday for dinner, opening at 5:00 PM; Saturday and Sunday, open for brunch and dinner, opening at 11:00 AM. We were there on a weekday for dinner and arrived about an hour before sunset. Let me just say now that sunset is an event. The weather was too cool
Evening view of the river from the upper deck.
Food with a view!
a growing food movement
We also got to have a Bison Burger with fries which was excellent. But, y’all. The “SYM” Bowl. It absolutely was South in Your Mouth! Smoked pulled pork on a layer of greens with bacon and served over a bed of cheddar grits with a touch of pickled okra was worth a three hour drive by itself. Don’t judge this book by the cover, it might not be the prettiest plate but it has a depth of flavor that will keep you diving in for more!
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The South in your mouth! Pulled pork, greens, grits and pickled okra give this dish a depth of flavor that you’ll keep diving in for! Dessert was a Chocolate Cobbler with ice cream … every bit as good as you’re imagining it right now. Equal parts ooey, gooey, and chewy in all the right ways. And chocolatey, of course! Whether a local, a tourist, or traveling by - plan your dinner or weekend brunch around 401 West, you’ll be glad you did!
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a growing food movement
The Hunt for Quail: finding connections
Article and photos by LeeAnna Tatum
Where Sporting and Sustainability Intersect. This series explores the ways that outdoor lifestyle and activities connect with sustainable food systems and how conservation and the local food movement can grow together. The hunt for quail begins by finding their habitat:
I thought about that for a moment, thinking
the right connection of land and water, the balance
about my brain’s response to this image which
of food source and natural protection from
intellectually I knew was not unusual. I could
predators, a meeting place of tree canopy and open
immediately name several people I know who fit
air.
that demographic - Black men who hunt. Nothing weird about that.
It begins long before the season opens with connections between handlers and their dogs.
But my brain did not want to immediately associate
Mentorships, traditions, generations of knowledge
those things. Black men and guns associated with
handed down - connecting the individual to the
the military? Sure. Gang violence? Yes. Hunting?
community.
Not so much. Don’t believe me? Try a simple Google search and get back with me.
For me, the hunt began one day in my living room, scrolling through my Facebook feed - quail hunting
And then I read the quote that went with the image.
and this series of articles had been on my mind earlier that day - an image caught my eye and drew
I support Georgia River Network because of
my attention.
the need to bring conversations about water conservation to the forefront of minority
I scrolled back up to find what it was that had made
outdoor participation. As a Georgia wild quail
my brain… go, “wait a second… that merits a second
hunter, I recognize that access to clean water
look.”
sources is just as necessary for the birds themselves as it is for me and my bird dogs to
An image of a Black man with a rifle, wearing
find them.
hunting apparel and standing in a wooded area clearly a hunter. Nothing unusual there, so why did
Without clean water and sustainable resources,
that image seem discordant - not wrong but ever so
much of my career in wing shooting and
slightly not right? Maybe just unexpected.
bird dogs would be unsuccessful, or worse, (con tinued on page 30)
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(con tinued f r om page 2 9)
nonexistent. The work from Georgia River
Understanding the value of representation in
Network reaches far beyond just paddlers
media and the need to include more voices in
and anglers, but to minority communities and
the conservation movement, Durrel founded the
hunters alike. - Durrell Smith
Minority Outdoor Alliance.
So, I started my own little online hunt to find this
The MOA’s mission is “expanding the narrative
Durrell Smith. Turns out Durrell is quite familiar
of the outdoors through education, engagement
with my brain’s response to the imagery of a Black
and media to form a multicultural community of
man with a gun and he’s on a bit of a mission to do
lifelong outdoor enthusiasts and professionals.”
something about that.
They do this by giving voice through storytelling and authentic representation, creating pipelines
Not only to change perceptions about race
for minority advancement in the outdoors, and by
and firearms; but also to encourage greater
building and introducing new minority leadership in
participation and engagement with the outdoors
conservation policy.
among minority groups and bring awareness to the
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rich outdoor culture that already exists within Black
By sharing the stories and imagery of African
culture but whose stories often go untold and are
Americans and other minorities not only engaging
underrepresented in media and the imagery of the
in the outdoors but doing so with firearms in a way
great outdoors.
that does not evoke violence, Durrell wants to help
a growing food movement
not only change the narrative around guns but
Brooks. The two men, who would become Durrell’s
also to ensure that minorities have an active role in
mentors in the sport, are well known and respected
conservation and enjoying these rich traditions that
in the quail-hunting community. They come from a
are part of their history as well.
rich, generational background and tradition of dog handlers/trainers and hunting guides from the Red
I had found my quail hunter. I knew I had found
Hills region around Thomasville.
the right person to take me on my first hunt and fortunately, he agreed. We met up in one of Georgia’s many Wildlife Management Areas on a coldy, breezy February morning. I had been warned that I’d be in for a lot of walking. And a lot of briars. A first generation hunter, Durrell is a high school teacher and artist whose interest in hunting, specifically with bird dogs, was sparked when he saw an article featuring Neal Carter and Curtis
“That was my story coming into bird dogs,” Durrell explained. “My mentors Neal Carter, Curtis Brooks (con tinued on page 32)
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down in Thomasville … I saw them in a magazine and it was representation that made me be like, ‘huh, I actually want to do that’!” While my first hunting experience yielded no actual contact with our quarry (but plenty of walking and briars as promised!), I gained some valuable insights and enjoyed spending time outdoors having a shared experience and watching Durrell and his dogs work together for a common purpose. Durrell and I then spent some time talking about hunting, racial stereotypes, sustainability, the importance of representation in outdoor recreation
maybe life in general that our conversation centered around.
Connecting with Community
and more. You can listen to that conversation on
Community is the means through which we pass
the podcast, and I recommend that you do! But
on traditions, learn new skills, gain understanding
the following are some key connections between
and come together to move toward a common
hunting, sustainability, our food systems and
goal.
a growing food movement
The bird dog community is connected to the
hunting,” Durrell questions. “Well, when we attribute
larger hunting community which is connected to a
a certain class or race or demographic of people
community of people who care about conserving
as violent or dangerous, there are restrictions put
land and water and natural resources. And ties that
in place to keep people from doing that… when
bind can often be the key to overcoming barriers.
you cut that group of people off… think about how many people we’re missing (in this community) because as a country we’ve completely distorted the narrative of Black people with firearms.”
Connecting with the Earth Responsible hunting is intimately connected with conservation. Season, bag limits, Wildlife Management Areas, hunting permits - all these things work together to help protect the habitat, population and life cycles of wildlife. Sustainable Durrell shared an example of a hunter he met from the Middle East (which caused Durrell to have to examine some of his own biases). This hunter shared a story of Muslim hunters who were killing wild hogs that were causing destruction. Because of their religious views, they had no interest in the meat but shared it with fellow hunters who were Christian.
hunting practices help ensure that natural and wild spaces are protected - this benefits the Earth and those of us who believe that protecting our natural resources is one of our innate responsibilities. “Interconnectivity,” Durrel mused “ … without the land, we don’t have the animals, without the animals we just don’t eat, without people there is no land management.”
“We can hear about the wars … but then we don’t hear about the stories that connect people,” Durrell stated. Durrell also expressed concern over the idea that certain groups, due to racial stereotypes, have been disassociated from the idea of responsible gun ownership. When an entire race or demographic is disassociated from that community of gun owners - whether by perception or practice (or both) - the community and the individual suffer because of it.
Connecting with the Cycles of Life
“What are the things that are getting in our way
Perhaps more so than the average citizen, those
of our perceptions of firearms, ownership and
who harvest animals for meat - whether as hunters (con tinued on page 35)
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“Interconnectivity,” Durrel mused “ … without the land, we don’t have the animals, without the animals we just don’t eat, without people there is no land management.”
a growing food movement
(con tinued f r om page 33)
In response to my own expressed concern that as
or farmers - are connected to the process of death.
a society, we seem to be toying with the idea that
As most of us rely more and more on others to
through certain lifestyle choices we can eliminate
provide our food and we ourselves become further
the death of animals, Durrell had the following to
separated from that original source, we also
say:
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distance ourselves from the full circle of life. “It’s no shade on anyone who wants to be Death as a natural part of life has become almost
vegetarian, vegan, pescatarian, whatever the case
a foreign concept as we go about our days largely
may be… but the greater conversation is let’s just
ignoring how fragile our own existence is.
accept life and death for what it is. And when we can do that, connect with it, engage with it - those
“Why is it that we as human beings are so
are teachable moments. I just think we have a lot
connected to the birth of a creature - the birth
more worth celebrating than trying to prevent stuff
of our own? We’re super fascinated by that but
from happening.”
completely disconnected from the death process.” I went on a quail hunt that day. I didn’t see one Durrell went on to discuss the life cycle of quail and
quail, but what I found was a deeper connection
the many ways they can meet their demise - only
to the world around me, a new connection with
one of which is at the hand of a hunter.
another human soul and his broader community,
“If i can consume it … I feel like… I would be honored to be a part of that whole process, the dying
and a greater sense of connection to the wondrous circle of life.
35
process, it’s nothing to play with and it’s nothing to disrespect. In nature, things are going to die… there’s predation and all of that, but to not respect the dying process, that’s where the disconnect is.” “That comes when you see it for what it is,” Durrell continued, “… death is going to happen and the more we’re connected to nature and the food we eat … the more we can have a more open and deliberate conversation about death, both human and animal.”
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Clump of cinnamon fern showing fertile (brown) and sterile (green) fronds.
a growing food movement
Native Plant Highlight: Cinnamon fern / Osmundastrum cinnamomeum
Article and photos by: Heather Brasell heather.brasell@gmail.com
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website.
I enjoy a variety of ferns in shady places on my
green color and frilly twice-divided shape; a whitish
grounds. Even though they don’t have flowers, they
velvety coating on lower stems and fiddleheads
provide interesting structural shapes, with a variety
becomes cinnamon colored as they mature. The ra-
of textures, green colors and seasonal interest.
chis (stems) are green with conspicuous red-brown
They also provide valuable ecological benefits.
hairs when young, but they are nearly hairless when mature.
Ferns are non-flowering plants that reproduce by spores. The spores are produced in special
Fertile fronds appear in spring and early summer
structures on the underside of leafy fronds or on
and are at least as long as the sterile fronds. They
separate non-leafy fertile fronds. Most ferns are
don’t have a leafy appearance at all. The erect cin-
deciduous, with characteristic curled “fiddleheads”
namon-brown colored spike with masses of brown
emerging from the crown in spring and gradually
spores resembles large cinnamon sticks. Like
uncurling to develop into fronds.
many other fern species, it dies back in winter.
Ferns are often thought of as somewhat delicate
Cinnamon fern is commonly found in wet places—
and fussy about needing moist sites but, in prac-
floodplains, flatwoods, and around the margins of
tice, many species are quite hardy and tolerant of
swamps and bogs. However, they tolerate a wider
a wide range of moisture and sunlight conditions.
range of sites. They prefer soils with high organic
Just be prepared to water them during extended
content, but they grow well in typical loamy garden
droughts.
soil. They can tolerate full sun if there is plenty of soil moisture all year and they can tolerate well-
One of my favorites is cinnamon fern Osmundas-
drained sites if there is plenty of shade. On my
trum cinnamomeum (formerly Osmunda cinna-
property, a population of cinnamon fern thrives on
momea). Cinnamon fern grows in large clumps
a well-drained, moderately shady wooded site that
with fronds up to 5’ long. There are two kinds of
is burned every 2-3 years.
fronds (dimorphic). Sterile leafy fronds have a pale
(con tinued on page 38)
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Several parts of cinnamon fern have been used by
If you have a shady area in your garden that
Native Americans for medicine and food. Fiddle-
isn’t droughty, ferns can be a beautiful addition
heads of cinnamon fern are edible, but sources
to your garden. With lots of choices in ferns for
indicate that they are not very palatable. Be careful,
your garden, it is worth getting to know some
as all ferns contain some carcinogens; so limit the
of the species common to the Coastal Plain
quantity that you eat and how you prepare them for
ecoregion.
eating. Some grow in separate clumps; others have spreading rhizomes that form colonies. Some are dimorphic (separate sterile and fertile fronds); others have spore-producing structures (sori) on the underside of leafy fronds. They also vary in size, color, frilly appearance, and habitat requirements. Many are good plants to consider around ponds, in rain gardens, seeps, or drains. The following species are listed in order of their size. ● 38
Royal fern (Osmunda regalis) is another large dimorphic fern that grows in clumps. It prefers very wet sites.
●
Virginia chainfern (Woodwardia virginica) and marsh fern (Thelypteris palustris) grow in colonies in wet sites. They are both fairly large (3-4’) with coarse, dark green fronds.
Emerging “fiddlehead: fronds with white
Southern shield fern (Thelypteris kunthii) has
fuzzy hairs.
similar characteristics but it prefers calcareous soils, thrives in deep shade (under
Ferns don’t have flowers for pollinators, but they
buildings), and requires less moisture.
do have other ecological benefits. The fibrous roots help prevent erosion and filter water runoff.
●
Netted chain fern (Woodwardia areolata) and
Ferns provide valuable foraging and shelter for
sensitive fern (Onoclea sensibilis) are both
ground-feeding birds, amphibians, and insects,
midsized (<18”) dimorphic ferns that grow
with the advantage that they resist browsing by
in colonies in moist to wet sites. Their mid-
deer and rabbits. The fuzz that covers the young
green sterile fronds with wide pinnae (like
fiddleheads and the hairs on the rachis are favorite
leaflets) are easily confused, but their fertile
nesting material for birds.
fronds are distinct.
a growing food movement
●
Ebony spleenwort (Asplenium platyneuron)
References
is a smaller, dimorphic, evergreen fern with a
Allen, S. 2018. Native ferns have a place in our
creeping habit. It thrives in well-drained wooded slopes. Where can you get ferns? Don’t transplant ferns from the wild. You can find about a dozen species readily available from nurseries. Most ferns reproduce vegetatively, so you can divide them (preferably in spring before the fiddleheads uncurl) to create separate plants. You can also grow ferns
plantings for wildlife. https://loudounwildlife. org/2018/07/native-ferns-have-a-place-in-our-plantings-for-wildlife/#:~:text=From%20a%20wildlife%20 point%20of,resistant%20to%20browsing%20by%20 rabbits. Duthie, L. 2020. Add mystery with ferns. https:// www.ecolandscaping.org/04/designing-ecological-landscapes/add-mystery-with-ferns/
from spores. It is not difficult, but it can take up to
Nelson, G. 2000. The ferns of Florida: A reference
two years for ferns to be ready for planting into your
and field guide. Pineapple Press: Sarasota, FL.
garden. Collect spores in summer by placing an
Ontario Ferns. Cinnamon fern. http://ontarioferns.
entire frond between newspaper. Spores drop out after a few days. They don’t need to be stratified, but you should maintain high humidity and cleanliness during propagation.
com/main/species.php?id=4004 Snyder, L. H., & J. G. Bruce. 1986. Field guide to the ferns and other Pteridophytes of Georgia. The University of Georgia Press, Athens, GA.
Then plant and enjoy your ferns! 39
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Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
a growing food movement
Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.” Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Celebrate National Potato Lovers Month with Shrimp & Corn Chowder February is National Potato Lovers Month and if
A star ingredient in my Wild Georgia Shrimp and
you’re anything like me, you’ve never met a potato
Corn Chowder, I like to use the Russet or Yukon
you didn’t like. In the South, most every meal is
Gold variety of potatoes. This is a dish I make for
accompanied by one variation or another of the
my husband and I often when I get home from
good old potato. Before I became an adult, out on
work, or on a Saturday for an extra special weekend
my own, I thought carbohydrates were mandatory
lunch. It comes together quickly and is a hearty
at every meal. Growing up, if we sat down to supper
meal served with crusty bread and a cold glass of
without the bread basket, my dad would inevitably
sweet tea.
look at my mom and ask, “Where’s the bread?” Even if Mom hadn’t made biscuits, Dad would want the
As many of you know, I love to make dishes that
“light bread” on the table. I came to understand that
are locally sourced, using ingredients that are in
“light bread” meant a loaf of sandwich bread. To
season. This chowder is even more amazing in the
this day, I’m still not sure why he calls it that.
summer months when the corn is sweet and the shrimp are fresh off the dock. The crunch of sweet
In moderation, potatoes are actually packed with
corn with salty bacon and starchy potatoes come
nutrition. Did you know, a medium-sized potato
together in complete harmony with the succulent,
has no fat, no cholesterol and contains only 110
plump shrimp. Creamy and pleasing to the eye
calories? Potatoes are also a good source of
with great texture, this dish epitomizes Some Kinda
Vitamin C and fiber. They have more potassium
Good.
than a banana, which is essential for maintaining proper muscle function.
In 30-40 minutes, you can make this dish for your (con tinued on page 4 2)
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(con tinued f r om page 41)
family, and be sitting down to a delicious meal. Good food and good company, that’s what it’s all about!
Wild Georgia Shrimp and Corn Chowder
•
3 slices of hardwood smoked bacon
•
2 stalks celery, thinly sliced
•
2 bunches of green onions, chopped
•
1/2 medium Vidalia onion, chopped
•
2 large baked potatoes such as Yukon Gold or Russet, peeled and diced
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•
3 ears of fresh corn, sliced off the cob
•
3 sprigs thyme
•
2 bay leaves
•
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
•
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
•
1 quart whole or 2% milk
•
1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
•
Old Bay, for seasoning shrimp
Directions In a large skillet with a high rim, cook bacon on medium-high heat. Remove the bacon, leaving the rendered fat. Stir in the celery, green onions and Vidalia onions, potatoes and corn. Add the thyme, bay leaves, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Stir in the flour until incorporated, about 2 minutes. Stir in the milk, then cover and bring to a boil. Uncover, reduce the heat to medium low and gently simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 6 minutes. Discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Season the shrimp with Old Bay. Stir in the shrimp and cook until opaque, about 4 minutes. Season with salt. Divide among bowls and sprinkle with green onion and chopped bacon. Serve with Italian bread.
Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
Ingredients
a growing food movement
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