SOIL Sou Soern u ern a grow food movement a grow food movement Volume 5 summer issue 2022 CHEF’S TABLE 700 Kitchen Cooking School PAGE 26\ AT THE MANSION
3 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 HART DAIRY GET GOING WITH KIRA KING THE FOUR AUNTIES PAGE 08 \ THE REVOLUTIONARY ACT OF RETURNING DAIRY COWS TO PASTURE PAGE 142\ WHAT TO DO THIS SUMMER 08 12 18 Contents SMALL FARM SPOTLIGHT CHEF’S TABLE PAGE 22 \ SATILLA PONDS PAGE 26 \ 700 KITCHEN COOKING SCHOOL 22 26 PAGE 18 \ WATERMELON 04 EDITORIAL 30 WHY DIGESTION IS THE KEY TO GOOD HEALTH 36 NATIVE PLANT HIGHLIGHT 40 SOME KINDA GOOD
Editorial
I also got to hang out in one of Chef Jason Winn’s cooking classes at The Mansion on Forsyth Park in Savannah. I chose the Farmers Market Tour, of course. It was so much fun to participate in this experience, take photos, eat some great food and now share it all with you in this issue’s Chef’s Table.
4 They (whoever “they” are… I found this quote attributed to any number of people) say that you should do what you love and you’ll never work a day in your life. And they must be right, because as I reflect over the past couple of months and the time spent putting this issue of Southern Soil together, the word “work” doesn’t come to mind. I had the opportunity to go fishing on a beautiful Sunday morning at Satilla Ponds with Chef Timothy Lensch of Georgia Sea Grill (St. Simons Island) and Eric Miller who manages the ponds. While Tim and Eric caught fish for the restaurant and I tried to catch fish for the restaurant, we talked about what makes this fish pond unique and some of the interesting challenges they’ve faced along the way. You can hear the full interview on the “Gone Fishin’” episode of The Southern Soil Podcast.
I don’t know about you, but I think that one of the most peaceful places on earth is hanging out in a field with calm, happy, grass-munching cows. I was quite happy to spend some time with the dairy cows of Hart Dairy along with the founding farmer Dr. Richard Watson. I learned a lot in this conversation and really enjoyed my conversation with Richard. I hope you’ll find the article in this issue informative. You can listen to that full interview on the “Happy Cows” episode of The Southern Soil Podcast.
For this issue, I was able to go back to The Promised Land Farm which was featured back in 2021. “Uncle Bob”, as he prefers to be known, is a wonderful human being and it’s always a treat to get to spend some time with him. He was kind enough to be my model for the photos. Uncle Bob’s grandparents were share-croppers and he grew up helping them and his mother on the farm. Though he hated farming as a kid, you can’t keep him away from it now! He’s always willing to share his knowledge and he tells everyone who visits the farm, with his favorite farm tool in hand - “we don’t use herbicides here, we use ‘hoe beside’s”.
Not only do I enjoy all the wonderful experiences I get to have and then write about, but I also enjoy being able to collaborate with others and help give them a platform to bring forward their ideas, passions and points of view! I love being able to read the articles from Rebekah Lingenfelser, Kira King and the members of the Coastal Plains Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society; I always learn something new and enjoy a fresh perspective. I have also really enjoyed the series on seeds and African foodways from Chef and Farmer Matthew Raiford. This issue highlights the watermelon. Since every article needs photos, I’ve had the privilege of collaborating with some of the area’s Black farmers to capture images that compliment the writing.
LEEANNA TATUM, Editor
LeeAnna Tatum
5 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022
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8 Where the greengrows...grass
on page 10)
By LeeAnna Tatum
Themade.same cannot be said of the US.
Richard is originally from New Zealand where animal-based agriculture is, largely by necessity, still pasture-based. Due to its small size and climate, growing grains in sufficient quantities to use as animal feed was simply not practical, so the shift to corn-fed beef and dairy cows was never
Hart Dairy: The Revolutionary Act of Returning Dairy Cows to Pasture
9 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022
What could possibly be revolutionary or groundbreaking about having dairy cows grazing outside on pastures? That’s what cows do, right? They stand around in fields and eat grass. Most of us who live in rural areas are quite familiar with the sight. So, what’s the big deal? Well, as it turns out, it’s a very big deal. I recently met up with Dr. Richard Watson (PhD in Animal Nutrition and Grazing Techniques) outside one of Hart Dairy’s three outdoor milking parlors to talk to him about what makes Hart Dairy unique in the industry. And yes, I realize I used the word “outside” twice in that previous sentence and that’s because there’s really not even an “inside” anywhere in sight - that’s how “outside” everything on this dairy (Now,is.just to clarify for the uninitiated, “dairy” refers to the farm and the cows; once the milk is collected from the cows, it is transported to the “creamery” where the raw milk is processed and packaged. In this article, we are focusing on the dairy. So, obviously, the “creamery” is a very “inside” operation and no cows are involved at that point.)
What was once old is new again
While most of us (American consumers) still believe the myth that all those joyous bovines are out there frolicking in fields of green, the hard truth is that the dairy industry in the US almost exclusively engages in livestock confinement. Even though dairy cows may have some access to the outdoors, they are primarily fed on cut hay and grain, corn and soy. This is even true of most dairies that are certified organic. Though with “organic certification” there (continued
When Richard teamed up with entrepreneur and co-founder Tim Connell, they wanted to establish a dairy that would be pasture-based. For this to work, there are two essential requirements which had to be met - the ability to produce forage on pasture throughout the entire year and the ability to raise dairy cows that could thrive and produce milk on that forage.
(continued from page 9)
Following the end of World War II, agriculture in the United States underwent a major transformation. It was during this time that the industrialization of agriculture took hold and many of the principles that drove the Industrial Revolution 100 years earlier became the governing standards in agriculture as well. Principles like: the use of emerging technologies (newly available fertilizers, pesticides and herbicides), a focus on efficiency (Confined Animal Feeding Operation), and specialization (monocrops). In and of themselves, these all seemed like positive changes and in the span of one generation, were embraced by most farmers across the US.
10 are some vague requirements for outside access and the feed that is brought in for the cows must be grown and certified organic. Sadly, cows are in most cases, still essentially confined.
“Prior to World War II, most of the cattle were outdoors, they were grazing,” he emphasized.
“So, from about the late 1940s (through the present), you’ve got over 70 years of genetic improvement, feed programs, all the science, all the R and D went into that grain system, that housed system. So, the breeding for cattle, all of it, diverged … So, you’ve got a two generation gap in the understanding of grazing cows outdoors. And the cows are genetically so different that really you can’t take an American Holstein and put them on grass and expect them to do well.”
It was this shift in agricultural practices that set in motion the progression of cattle - both beef and dairy - from foraging in pastures and grazing on grasses to being confined for long periods and fed a diet heavy in grains (like corn) and cut hay. Richard explained that following World War II, all the bomb making factories began making amonia nitrate - fertilizer - and an abundance of it! Coupling that with higher yields from hybrids which were first developed in 1929, and the US had a huge surplus of “Thecorn.(change in the) industry really developed because of the excess corn,” Richard clarified. “It wasn’t that the best way to have a dairy was to put them (the cows) inside, it was ‘we grew a lot of corn and we have way more corn than we need to feed our people, so … let’s feed it to animals.’ And the best way to feed it to animals was to put them inside and take it to them, since corn is something that’s harvested and processed.”
Where the green grass grows To meet the first requirement, the dairy needed to be located in a place with a mild enough climate and enough water to efficiently grow grasses and forage 365 days per year. Clearly, South Georgia fits the Richardbill. was very familiar with the local climate and grass-growing capabilities of the area due to his years of working with the University of Georgia overseeing grazing research trials and at Mississippi State as the Forage Extension “ThatSpecialist.was a very valuable experience because it was the interface between technology and farmers,” Richard explained of his time at Mississippi State.
With his early experience with pasture-based farming in his home country of New Zealand and his acquired experience in the US with growing forage for cattle in the Southeast, Richard began to understand the ripe potential for bringing dairy cows back to the pastures. So in 2007, the first 350 acres were purchased and a New Zealand style open-air milking parlor was built and that was the start of what has since become the Hart Dairy. But the pastures are just one part of the puzzle.
VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022
11
“Getting the practical experience of how things work or don’t work in practice. But also getting an understanding of the potential in the Southeast to grow stuff. It’s the right combination of heat and water and things grow very, very well.”
(continued on page 32)
a growing food movement
12 Photos courtesy of Kira King
on page 14)
It’s hot. It’s humid. It’s buggy. It’s a struggle to walk outside to get the mail, let alone to be working outside. Welcome to sweet summertime in the South. With all its challenges, our summers are still a great time to get some things done! It’s time to get late-season seeds in the ground, harvest, harvest, and harvest some more, and figure out what to do with your growing abundance. Though after spring’s cleaning and prepping, summer feels like the perfect time to let yourself relish in a handful of leisurely, carefree moments. In the Garden For your annual garden, now’s the time to start thinking about succession planting to extend your harvest bounty. Your early spring crops are more than likely done, and it’s time to replace them with the things that do well in this late summer heatsquash, zucchini, beans, eggplants, and okra, to name a few. You may still need to have a watering schedule depending on your rainfall and how deep your top dressing of mulch is. We had a dry spring here in South Georgia, but the afternoon thunderstorms of summer have started rolling in, which have their own set of pros and cons. One definite con is fungal diseases. They thrive in hot, humid, and wet conditions. Luckily, most plants can grow through most leaf diseases. Pest pressure also ramps up in the summer. Try spraying neem oil mixed with water and a few drops of dish soap to get rid of (continued
Get GoingwithKira King
13 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022
What to do this Summer
Kira King has a 4-acre homestead in Savannah, Georgia with her husband, daughter, and menagerie of animals. After graduating from the University of Georgia with a journalism degree, she began her own social media marketing company which over time morphed into a homesteading blog and podcast. The Homestead Kings treasure local and sustainable food practices beginning in the home, the simple lifestyle that homesteading provides, and the companionship they share with their animals. They didn’t grow up in the homesteading or farming way of life, but Kira says they got there as quickly as possible and still learn something new every day.
14 (continued from page 13) scale, aphids, mealybugs, thrips, and vine borers. It’s a constant uphill battle, but it’s best for your overall production if you try to tackle the problem Hopefully,early. you’re already delicious,beansaway.forgetAsandsucculentenjoyingtomatoescrispgreenbeans.youharvest,don’ttoputsomePickledgreenmakeforacrunchy snack, and if you’re not sure how to water-bath can tomatoes, it’s not as hard as you might think, especially with the mountains of tutorials in the world. But, if the heat coming off a big pot of boiling water doesn’t sound like something you’d like to invite into your house in the dead of summer, blanching and freezing the tomatoes are always an option. One of my favorite ways to preserve tomatoes, and the easiest I’ve found thus far, is to roast them with herbs, garlic and onions, let cool, stuff them into a gallon jar, and top with a good quality olive oil. It lasts for months in the fridge and makes the most savory instant pizza or spaghetti sauce when you’re ready for that unmistakable home-grown tomato taste. Just make sure they are always submerged in the oil while storing. Your perennial garden should be cranking out food around every bend. The blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries take turns so that you always have some juicy delicacy at hand. New perennial flowers are smiling daily enticing all those precious pollinators to your garden. The peaches may be finishing up just in time for the figs to arrive. Creating some homemade jams out of the abundance may sound cliche, but until you’ve tasted the sweet goodness of the fruits of your labor, you don’t know what you’re missing! It’s also a wonderful process to do to control the amount of sugar content in your jam. Look for the lowsugar pectin option when
15 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 gathering your supplies, and sweeten it with raw honey instead of sugar. You’ll be delighting in the tastes of summer months after it has passed. For your animals, make sure they have a continuous supply of water and a source of shade. Floats for your water trough are very affordable and are an extra assurance your animals will have water available to them at all times. Just make sure to check that it’s working once a day and dump and scrub the trough sporadically to keep it clean. Chickens and ducks love this time of year with its watermelon and cantaloupe rind treats, scraps from tomatoes, and more. Freeze the scraps beforehand for some homemade popsicles, appreciated by the birds on the hottest summer days. Chickens don’t like to get wet, but your other livestock and ducks will sometimes enjoy a sprinkler to shower off and cool down occasionally, especially if there hasn’t been much rain. The key is to keep your animals safe and cool. Do your best to proactively prevent any heat-related issues. In the House
All your spring cleaning was worth it because now is the time when you spend most of the sweltering midday indoors (unless you’re out partaking in water activities!). Unlike winter, when all you want to do is curl up with a hot cuppa, the heat of the summer has you searching for ways to cool down and take it easy. Try making yourself and your family some tasty, chilly treats, like water kefir popsicles, or dressing up regular ice cubes with mint to give your drinks some zest and beauty. Taking it easy doesn’t have to mean stagnant. There are plenty of things to keep your creative spirit alight during the summertime! Get crafty and make your unpaper towels, a sustainable solution to the regular throwaway ones. Or try your hand at arranging flowers you’ve picked from your garden. There’s no right or wrong way, but you can take an ordinary vase and make it extraordinary with just a little fine-tuning. Seek out your local library, ask the wise librarian what you should read, and let a book’s inner enchantments whisk you away into new lands and adventures one page at a time. Even if it’s out of your comfort zone, pick up a starter paint set and a canvas from a craft store. Then turn on some music, pour your favorite beverage, maybe look at a picture for inspiration, and let the paint flow. It doesn’t matter how the result turns out. The value is in the process. And, who knows? You might just have a natural talent! (continued
on page 16)
16 (continued from page 15) Write letters. Letter writing for the sake of communication is slowly fading away. Revive it. Write to your closest friends or distant relatives, about anything. Tell them about your garden’s progress. Ask them about their lives. It’s another way to show that you care, and we all like getting special things in the mail. Bust out the board games or cards. Keep an array of board games or a stack of cards near your dining room and pull one out at least once a week after lunch or supper. Once the table is cleared, gather around and enjoy your loved ones. Or invite friends over for a designated game night. Board games and cards are timeless activities that truly are fun for all ages. You may have noticed a theme for all of these suggestions. None of them involve a phone or television. Soak in the slow times of summer with a Digital Detox. Pretty soon, you’ll realize you’re not turning the tv on as frequently, and you’ve misplaced your phone because you haven’t used it. Summer is the perfect time for rest, relaxation, and restoration.
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Photo by LeeAnna Tatum
They came in the braids of Africans who were stripped, shackled, and placed head to foot in the belly of ships named White Lion, Monrovia, Clotilda, and Wanderer. Their voyages to the hinterlands from the west coast of Africa helped to create food ways that have evolved from survival food to delicacies that are coveted by even the richest of palates.
Although watermelon’s origins are very similar to her sisters, her evolution story is one that has been heralded from pharaohs to 20th century writers and she continues to satisfy all walks of life in between. Watermelon (Citrullus Lanatus) is a member of the Cucuritaceae plant family which contains a variety of recognizable garden plants like pumpkin, cucumber, and musk melons. With over 1,200 varieties these plants yield both male and female flowers making them monoecious; the edible part of the watermelon, known as the pepo, is a ripened ovary with a hard rind and watery flesh that although is consumed as a fruit is distinguished as a vegetable. The United States commercially produces more than $500 million worth of watermelon every year, with Georgia being the highest yielded. Made up of about 92% water, watermelon is not only a great source of hydration, but also rich in Vitamin C and potassium. Physicians of antiquity like Hippocrates used watermelon as a diuretic and to cure small children from heat stroke. It has also been known to have been used for its lycopene which decreases the risk of cancer and high blood pressure in many consumers.
Watermelon is said to have derived from central Africa dating back about 5,000 years ago and was praised for its ability to store water and was once used as canteens. The watermelons of this time were said to not be as sweet as we enjoy it now and would remain edible for weeks or months if stored in a cool shaded area.
The P.O.W.R Aunts (peas, okra, watermelon, and rice) have been a source of sustenance since its arrival upon the coastal shores of what is now known as the Gullah Geechee Heritage Corridor. In this series we will see the aunts as individuals and collectively.
The Four WATERMELONAunties:
19 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 (continued on page 20)
Known as Gurma (Egyptian) these melons were domesticated for the sole purpose of hydration to later become a treat of the aristocracy and were devoured during feasts, drought, and used as gifts to honor pharaohs. One can imagine watermelon’s acclaim by finding drawings of it on the walls of tombs of King Tut or by discovering that they were placed with the soldiers who were buried with him so that they could remain hydrated as they journeyed to the underworld.
by Matthew Raiford and Helen Rae Ladson
20 (continued from page 19) Watermelon, or the cultivation of it, soon spread throughout the Great Continent through trade and bartering; finding its way to West Africa making relation to the egusi fruit and the Mediterranean where it was then developed into a dessert known as Gurum (Sudan) and began to expand as Far East as it is west. This reach is so expansive that it is hard to determine between Indigenous First Peoples, European Colonists, or African descendants who brought the first seedlings for it has been documented as growing in Florida as early as 1576 and in Massachusetts in 1629. No matter who may have brought the initial crop to the New World, one is aware of those who maintained and harvested the bounty of this delicacy. After the Civil War, former enslaved Africans began to grow and sell watermelons as a means of economic revenue that helped to create African American communities across the nation. This supply created much success for newly emancipated African descendants and became the symbol of freedom in sodality. It was this success that led to the stigmatization of the African American farmers who were now competition to their former plantation owners. To belittle their competition, they actively participated in the propaganda of African descendants through song, cartoons, and “news” reports that suggested they were lazy because watermelons were the easiest crop to grow. Watermelons came to be known as dirty and often referred to as childlike due to its sweet taste, however these negative connotations were not applied to African Americans until after emancipation. This blot on the African American escutcheon followed them well into the 20th century. The ensuing stigma that developed around watermelon caused great harm to the cultivation of the food by the shunning of its consumption in Itpublic.wasnot until August Wilson’s 1987 Pulitzer Prize winning play, The Piano Lesson, that a reclamation of watermelon as an economic staple in the African American community by the successful triumph of his protagonist, Boy Willie, who was able to purchase his family’s ancestral land at the end of the production. Although a minor character in theater, the watermelon took the lead as a symbol of self-sufficiency and freedom as it once did for newly freed African descendants after the Civil War. Mark Twain once wrote, “Watermelon is the chief of this world’s luxuries, king by the grace of God over all the fruits of the Earth. When one has tasted it, he knows what the angels eat.” This statement must have come after he was served this delicacy, hopefully sprinkled with salt, on a hot summer’s day after tricking someone into painting a white picket fence for his aunt. One may never know what brought Mr. Twain to this accurate conclusion, yet most who have tasted it would probably agree with his Watermelonepiphany.has traveled through time and space to satisfy and quench the thirsts and sweet cravings of many - even in the face of stereotypes and shame. It has and continues to be a source of hydration in countries where water is scarce or highly polluted. It is at its best when it’s thumped and a “thunk” can be heard. From the rind to rim and the sticky nectar in between, versatile and full of nourishment; she is watermelon - our Duchess of Delight.
Uncle Bob encourages everyone to learn to know how to grow food so they’ll have the knowledge and skills to do so should they need it.
Uncle Bob is a self-proclaimed “farmer in training” but he’s got plenty of wisdom born through experience to share with those who are willing to learn. Bob spent his boyhood working in the fields alongside his mother and grandparents who were sharecroppers. Eager to get away from farm work, he joined the Army and served for 21 years, including service during the Vietnam War. It was during his time stationed abroad in places like Vietnam, Korea and Germany that Bob began to appreciate farming for what it truly is - a means of putting food on the table. With a different attitude toward farming, Uncle Bob bought the property that is now The Promised Land Farm when he retired in 1989. He convinced his brother Uncle Bill (William Johnson) to join him and together they have become known for growing collard greens and having an annual Collard Festival. They also grow watermelon and other seasonal crops throughout the year. They serve their community by providing free produce to the elderly and to veterans in need as it’s available. They also offer the opportunity for members of the community to rent a row and use a portion of their land for growing gardens. The brothers are always willing to share their knowledge and experience about growing food with those who want to learn.
Robert Johnson (better known as Uncle Bob) of The Promised Land Farm in Port Wentworth.
Photos by LeeAnna Tatum
In this series, get to know more about the small farm operations that are using sustainable methods to help meet the local demand for fresh food. And meet the farmers that are making it happen!
Satilla Ponds is managed by Eric Miller who had experience working with aquaponics (growing food in a symbiotic relationship with the fish living in the water), but was new to catfish farming. Because so much of what they are doing on the farm and the infrastructure itself was not standard to the catfish farming industry, Miller has had to learn to adapt industry practices to fit their unique set up.
Miller is in the process of fine-tuning a shock system of harvest which would allow for more humane selection of mature fish (without having to catch and release fish that are too small). An electric shock is sent into the water, stunning the fish and causing them to float to the top. This allows for the selection of the best fish for harvest while leaving the rest to recover and swim away.
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Miller has worked with a company in Kansas that produces their organic feed. Due to a high level of avian predation, they needed to develop a food that would not float on the surface of the pond. This is just one of the many unique challenges that the team has faced through the process of not only learning this business, but in many ways developing a brand new way of farming catfish.
Satilla Ponds may not be the typical small farm we feature here, but we strive to shine a light on all the different ways food can be farmed here in Southeast Georgia. Producing locally raised and organically-fed catfish is one of the latest ways proprietor Zack Gowen is growing the local food community in the Golden Isles. The farm currently produces catfish solely for Gowen’s St Simons Island restaurant Georgia Sea Grill, but has the potential for future growth and could become a supplier to other area restaurants and markets down the road.
Small Farm Spotlight
Miller has been a proven problem-solver and works closely with Georgia Sea Grill Chef Timothy Lensch as they look for more efficient ways to harvest the catfish. Currently, the two meet up on Sunday mornings to enjoy the beautiful setting, each other’s company and catching the week’s supply of catfish for the restaurant with a rod and reel.
By farming their own fish, the team can ensure that Georgia Sea Grill customers have the highest quality and freshest catfish available.
You can learn more by visiting the website: www.georgiaseagrill.com. You can also sit back and relax or grab a rod and reel and join me as I go fishing and talk about the business of raising, harvesting and cooking up some local, organically fed catfish on the Southern Soil Podcast episode titled, Gone Fishin’.
Most catfish used in the restaurant industry are farmed overseas in conditions that are less than ideal and in most cases downright deplorable.
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The fried catfish and grits plate that is regularly on the menu at the restaurant is, according to Chef Lensch, the most local dish they have on menueverything from the grits to the Sea Island peas and, of course, the catfish, comes from local farms in Southeast Georgia. From pond to plate it’s most likely the freshest catfish around!
a growing food movement
Chef’s Table: 700 Kitchen Cooking School
Article & Photos by: LeeAnna Tatum Do you enjoy fine dining, but find that you’d like to sneak a peek into the kitchen and learn a little more about how your amazing dinner came together? Do you love to cook at home, but miss out on the social interaction of dining out with friends? What about those celebration dinners for special occasions that end up falling short when it comes to engaging with your dinner party and creating those memorable moments? Did you answer “yes” to any of those questions? If so, a cooking class at the Mansion on Forsyth Park in Savannah might be just the thing for you! Classes taught by Chef Jason Winn, who heads up the 700 inthoseexperienceare(atCookingKitchenSchooltheMansion),aninteractiveforinterestedtakingthe experiencefine-dining beyond the table - all the way back to the kitchen where the magic happens. Chef Winn encourages his students to jump into the process and get involved as much (or as little) as each one is willing - so there’s no pressure for those who might prefer cooking more as a
In some restaurant kitchens, there is a table reserved for special guests who have a privileged dining experience that includes a front row view of the chef at work. This is referred to as the “chef’s table”. In this series, we aim to give our readers a chef’s table experience as we introduce you to some of our area’s chefs and their cuisine with a behind the scenes glimpse into their kitchens and a taste of their fare.
Chef’s TABLE
on page 26)
spectator sport. You can attend on your own, as a couple, or as a group. You can even arrange to book a class as a private event and make a truly memorable experience for your next family reunion, work retreat or bridal party. Since taking over the cooking school, Winn has added a number of classes that go beyond the traditional Southern cuisine that is popular with tourists. This new lineup is meant to appeal to locals and out-of-towners alike. It includes seasonal and internationally themed classes like: Elegant Easter Brunch, A Night in Tuscany and Oktoberfest. There is also a new line of Grand Tour classes offering an overview of culinary regions including: South America, the Caribbean, Southeast Asia. Of course, there are still plenty of opportunities to explore Southern cooking as well with classes like: Low Country Staples, the Southern Table, New Orleans Soiree and Savannah Champagne Brunch. “When I started there were just a handful of classes, mostly tourist-centered classes. We’ve kept those but modified them some and added more. We’ve expanded from the Low Country to add the New Orleans Class. I added the Southern Table where we make things like tomato pie, fried chicken and mac and cheese - but like badass versions of it,” Winn said with a grin.
Winn grew up in a household where good food “I’dwascountryappreciatedwasandcookingthenorm.saymyfamily is a food family, We’ve always been into food even before anyone called it being a ‘foodie’ - we just loved food,” he explained. “I grew up in Texas, so it was chili and pinto beans with cornbread, chicken fried steak, country food, my grandmother’s chicken and dumplings. So, those are the things we loved and, of course, Mexican food because Dallas has great Mexican food!” With the intention of going to law school, Winn changed career trajectories after starting college and realizing his true passion was in cooking. After putting himself through culinary school, Winn settled in Atlanta where he worked at some of the top restaurants, learning from chefs who excelled in their field. (continued
from page 27)
He worked his way up through the kitchens and eventually found his way to Savannah as a country club chef which he did for about a decade prior to taking on the position with the cooking school.
Winn’s love of food shines through as he shares his knowledge and passion for cooking with his Earlierstudents.this summer, I had the opportunity to attend one of his classes and, of course, I chose the Farmers Market Tour. This class delves even deeper in the process by involving students in the shopping experience as well as cooking and eating. And is a great way to get introduced to the Forsyth Farmers Market and all the amazing local ingredients that are available all year.
The class I was a part of was about an equal mix of locals and tourists, most had shopped from farmers markets before, but there were a couple for whom the experience was new. As he shopped for ingredients, Winn encouraged his group to get to know the vendors, ask questions, try samples and shop for themselves as well. After shopping was completed, we all returned to the wonderfully air conditioned kitchen where Chef Winn prepared us all mimosas before the meal
thekitchenafeelsthatfuniskitchenBeingbegan.preparationinthewithWinnarelaxedandexperiencesomehowlikebeinginspacioushomewhereallrelativeshave gathered. There are small groups of people who know each other well intermingled with practical strangers (you know, like those out (continued
To start the class off, Chef Winn leads a walking tour of the Forsyth Farmers Market where he shops for fresh local ingredients that will inspire the menu for the three course brunch. It is the only class he teaches where he does not already have a set Participantsmenu. have the opportunity to engage with vendors, learn about ingredients that might be unfamiliar and gain an understanding of the importance of starting with quality ingredients in order to create a delicious meal.
Photos in this article by LeeAnna Tatum
of town relatives you never met); there’s joking and teasing among friends along with more perceivedisInwhobetweenconversationpolitethosejustmet.theend,thereorderamidchaos and somehow from what seems like a jumble of ingredients and disjointed taskscompleted plates of food emerge. The menu for this class is always a three course brunch, but those courses are always different and based around the available ingredients of the day. The meal prepared that day included: a goat cheese souffle and microgreen salad, fried tilefish over a vegetable and sausage ratatouille and peach hand pies for dessert. I spoke with two participants following the class, Savannah local Charlie Gray and his mother Rosita Stefensen who have both taken more than one of Winn’s classes to find out what it was that brought them back. This was Charlie’s third class, he and his wife attended Date Night and he attended the Low Country Staples class with his mother and aunt. In addition to the great food and cooking tips that he and his wife have incorporated at home, Charlie likes that the experience is always unique and “It’sinteresting.different every time. From the menu standpoint but also from the people standpoint, because half the fun is the people you’re in class with. So you never know who’s going to show up and it’s just a nice way to spend a few hours.”
To learn more or to book your cooking class, visit their website: www.themansionsavannah.com
The 700 Kitchen Cooking School is part of Mansion on Forsyth Park, a beautifully eclectic center to engage all your senses - from spa treatments to a fine dining restaurant, cooking classes, live music and overnight stays to an ever-changing gallery where all the art is for sale - it’s an inspiring location that’s sure to spark your creativity.
“I think anybody that’s coming to Savannah for an event or spending the weekend, I think this is a fantastic thing to do,” Charlie recommended. “Rather than just going to a restaurant and having the food brought to your table, you get to be part of the action and really enjoy it,” Rosita agreed.
By Kerri Dodson, MNT, MCHWC, Master Nutrition Therapist
Kerri specializes in reversing autoimmunity with whole food nutrition and the reversal or management of Type 2 diabetes with a plant-based diet. She also works with anyone who is looking to implement a more plant-focused lifestyle. She also specializes in digestive disorders and chronic intestinal issues.
Unfortunately, the majority of people are fueling themselves with processed food (this includes restaurant dining) and fast food. Eating this way exposes us to chemicals and pesticides. Also, our soil is depleted of minerals and we are now eating GMO foods, which damage the gastrointestinal lining. Without the integrity of the digestive system, the body cannot support other foundations of health.
Kerri Dodson is a Master Certified Nutrition Therapist, Restorative Wellness Level 1 Practitioner and Certified Master Health, Wellness and Nutrition Coach who takes an individual, holistic, whole food approach to fighting disease and achieving overall wellness. Her focus is helping those who are dealing with age-related weight gain, high cholesterol, fatigue, high A1C, dementia or those who are just looking for a healthier lifestyle.
As part of her process, Kerri focuses on specialized digestive testing, provides detailed personalized nutritional assessments and individualized nutrition protocols for each client’s specific issues and needs. She is proficient in the following protocols: Coronary Artery Disease, Autoimmune, Digestive Disorder, Type 2 Diabetes, Immune Boosting, and Early Onset Dementia.
Why Digestion Is the Key to Good Health
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Digestion is the gateway when dealing with all aspects of health. The gastrointestinal tract is connected to every system in the body. Without proper digestion, health cannot be optimized and thus, digestion is the most important healing priority for overall optimal health. Why do so many of us have stomach/ gastrointestinal issues?
It is important to remember that every aspect of what we eat literally becomes part of us in our cells. So proper nutrition AND proper digestion and absorption are vital. Proper digestion begins in the mouth and then to the stomach. Most people think heartburn is a sign of too much hydrochloric acid (HCl) when in reality, most of the time it is because of too little HCl. HCl is vital to the proper breakdown of proteins in the stomach. Next, food is passed to the intestines. Here, there are different types of bacteria (pathogens, normal bacterial flora, phyla microbiota, opportunistic bacteria, H. pylori, fungi/ yeast, parasites and worms). Your bacteria need to be in the appropriate ratios and there should not be the presence of fungi/yeast, parasites or worms. We coexist with our bacteria. They play a role in the extraction of nutrients and energy from the food we eat, help maintain gut barrier function, produce vitamins like biotin and Vitamin K, and protect against the colonization of potential pathogens. Our microbiota interacts with our immune system and it has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. Also, digestive markers should be in the appropriate range.
This one two punch is the best way to deal with issues such as IBS, autoimmune disease, heartburn, constipation, gallbladder issues and inflammatory issues.
nutritioncoachkerri@gmail.comwww.nutritioncoachkerri.com770-722-9580
What can we do? A qualified Nutrition Therapist can help you test and not guess. Testing is the only true way to know if there is an imbalance or infection—be it parasitic, fungal or bacterial. It is also the best way to determine if there is a functional issue, meaning digestive capacity and ability to repair itself is impaired. Testing can also provide insight on inflammation and immune responses. A Nutrition Therapist can analyze this comprehensive panel and assist you in a proper protocol to balance/repair and alleviate any issues you may be having. We couple this with food sensitivity testing to ensure that while we are healing the gut, foods aren’t still doing damage.
“And that provided a smaller animal, a more efficient animal,” he continued. “It was sort of a compromise, it reduced the size and did bring some grazing characteristics to them, but for all intents and purposes, those US genetics were still built around a corn-based diet.”
“When we first started out, we really only had access to American (livestock) genetics … we really didn’t have access to the right type of animal, so that was hard,” Richard said. “Trying to develop a grass-based production system with an animal that’s just not suited for it … the best we could do to start out was to have crosses - American HolsteinJersey crosses.”
“We took what we had and kept crossing them with new New Zealand genetics over and over to create this herd which … now going on 15 years … is based (largely) on New Zealand genetics but actually is a Georgia grazing-breed of cattle,” Richard explained.
32 (continued from page 11) A dairy needs cows Unfortunately, as Richard had explained, everything in the dairy industry here in the US had been developed, over the past 70 plus years, to improve milk production from corn-fed cows. And cows that have been bred to do well in confinement while being fed corn have, in effect, been bred to perform poorly for grazing on pastures - in warmer Theclimates.American Holstein is the dominant breed within the US dairy industry. The Holstein weighs in at around 1,500 pounds and produces a high volume of milk based on a corn-rich diet. Its size and milk output requires a high rate of metabolism and a large animal with a high metabolism does not do well in the heat and humidity that abounds here in Georgia.
Richard further explained that even with crossbreeding they were unable to develop a herd that could thrive on a pasture-based system and they knew that they needed to incorporate some genetics from the New Zealand cattle breeds. Working with a NZ company, they began to incorporate those muchneeded grass-grazing genes into their existing herd using AI (artificial insemination).
“The whole grass-fed thing was more serendipitous than deliberately going out to develop a pasturebased dairy system on a market that has since grown,” Richard admitted. “It was driven by economics in the beginning … what I felt was a lowcost production model - growing grass and having the cow harvest it, it’s more efficient.”
The right market for the milk With both essential elements of a pasture-based dairy system in place, milk production began. But not in its current branded form. In its early years, milk produced on the farm was being sold to a cooperative as a commodity product. There was no “grass-fed” labeling or designation. In fact, the original driving force for developing a pasture-based dairy was not at all market-driven. At that time, the market for grass-fed products was relatively small and was mostly centered around beef products, not dairy.
“And that was one of the critical elements of getting this to work - getting a herd of cows that could thrive in this (pasture-based) system and produce milk.”
But after producing milk for the commodity market for several good years, prices began to fall and a decision had to be made - continue to lose money, get out of the dairy business or change tactics and capitalize on a small, but growing niche market.
“And after we went through a lot of years of trial and error and developing the breed and developing the right grass system - it took time, it took a lot of effort, a lot of money to get there, and in the end we did. And we had several very good years of just producing commodity milk in an efficient way from these animals.” “We had the system and there was a growing market for it,” Richard said. “We decided we’d stop producing commodity milk and start developing a branded product … to vertically integrate and take more control over the supply chain. Reconnect with the consumer, and reconnect the consumer with farming. Rather than give up what we developed through blood, sweat and tears over ten years - and that’s really how the brand, Hart Dairy came about.”
So, why does “grass-fed” matter? We’ve covered some of the many reasons why having dairy cows out in pastures and grazing on grass here in the US is so “revolutionary”, but why does it matter? Beyond the bucolic imagery, is it (continued
on page 34)
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(continued from page 33)
Having cows on the soil keeps them in the nutrient cycle where they belong - soil, plant, animal, soil, plant, animal, etc. Not only are cows better off and
Links to a few studies are provided at the end of this article, but the going consensus is that grassfed milk offers benefits like higher amounts of beneficial fatty acids and lower amounts of harmful fatty acids. This healthy to unhealthy fat ratio is significantly different between conventional milk products and grass-fed products. Along with more vitamins and minerals and significantly higher levels of CLA. From my own personal perspective, it tastes better! Don’t take my word for it, set up your own blind taste test and see if you notice a difference! (There is also market research out there that would indicate I’m hardly alone in my personal preference, but I still suggest you find out for yourself.)
It matters to the soil Nature works in cycles. But industrialized agriculture has worked hard to take components out of the cycles where they belong and put them into linear production models. These models require higher levels of inputs and create higher levels of waste, but are admittedly good at producing high output (in terms of quantity).
34 important to anyone (other than the cow herself!) that cows spend their days outdoors foraging rather than confined and grain-fed?
The answer to those questions is far more complicated and far-reaching than this writer and this simple article are prepared to go! But to put it simply - it matters!!! And just barely scratching the surface, here are a few of the reasons why. It matters to the cows themselves and that should matter to us all You don’t have to be an animal behavior scientist or welfare activist to wrap your mind around the fact that cows that get to be outside on green grass and breathing fresh air while engaging in the natural, instinctive behaviors that are innate to the very cow-ness of being a cow; are better off than their counterparts who are confined, unable to engage their natural herd behaviors, and fed a diet which goes against their natural grazing instincts. In terms of animal welfare and humane treatment of cows within the dairy industry, it is hard to imagine that there is really much comparison between the two systems. If I were a cow, I certainly know which one I’d prefer, don’t you? And happy cows make better milk, right? It matters to the end product. It would seem that science seems to be backing that theory. Milk produced from cows that are raised on pastures and enjoy a forage-based diet is nutritionally superior to milk produced from cows that are raised in confinement on a grain-based diet. There is a lot of research out there on this comparison and more of it coming out every day.
35 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 producing a better quality product when allowed to spend their days foraging, as we’ve discussed, but they are also providing a service to the land itself.
There is a great deal of emerging science touting the benefits of regenerative agriculture (farming methods that not only do not harm the environment, but actually help restore it).
“UGA and the University of Florida did a study on our fields, from the day we got them as row-crop farms and then applied this grass-based or pasturebased production system,” Richard explained regarding the soil cycle on the farm. “We are accumulating carbon at about 3.5 tons per acre per year. So, after about 6 years, the soil carbon or soil organic matter was similar to a virgin forest. It’s not going to keep accumulating at that rate, at some point it reaches an equilibrium but that equilibrium is indicative of a genuine ecological cycle.” It matters to the environment. As the above study indicates, cows grazing on pasture does more than simply benefit the soil, pastured cows can also play an important part in carbon sequestration and the reduction of greenhouse gases from our atmosphere. Wait. Aren’t cows one of the main sources of greenhouse gases? Like most things in life, the answer is more complicated than a simple “yes” or “no”. There are a lot of contributing factors. And as you might have guessed by now, cows raised and kept on pastures as opposed to ending up in confined-feeding situations are able to be part of the solution.
All cows, even happy cows on pastures, do produce methane (one of the greenhouse gases). However, the same is true of all ruminants, including the wild ones. But when incorporated into a farm system and allowed to be part of their own natural cycles with the earth, cows can have an important role in actually sequestering more greenhouse gases than they are emitting. Dig a little deeper You can learn more about Hart Dairy by visiting their website, hartdairy.com, or find them on social media. You can also listen to this interview in its entirety on The Southern Soil Podcast, the episode is titled “Happy Cows”. To learn more about the science behind the many benefits of regenerative agriculture and pasturebased animal agriculture - specifically dairy - here are a few links: The “Grass-Fed” Milk Story: Understanding the Impact of Pasture Feeding on the Composition and Quality of Bovine Milk (2019, Aug 8) National Center for Biotechnology Information nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6723057/https://www.ncbi.
Grass-fed Cows Produce Healthier Milk University of Minnesota Extension (2021) https://extension. Canumn.edu/Cows Help Mitigate Climate Change? Yes, They Can! (2018, Dec 19) JSTOR Daily https://daily.jstor. they-can/org/can-cows-help-mitigate-climate-change-yes-
Reincorporating livestock back onto the land is a primary aspect of regenerative agriculture and it’s becoming clear that grazing cattle can be an important key restoring healthy soils that have long been depleted through tillage and conventional farming methods.
Light pink Monarda fistulosa in a forest edge habitat.
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Photo: Dave Powell, USDA Forest Service (retired), Bugwood.org
37 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 (continued on page 38)
Monarda fistulosa, also commonly known as wild bergamot or beebalm, is one of my favorite native plants for many reasons. I was introduced to it in my mother’s back yard, noticing how the bees buzzed around the blooms in the summer. I’ve learned since then that it has been revered over time by Native Americans and colonists for its medicinal properties and use in cooking. A couple of years ago, I added it to my front yard “minimeadow in progress” to benefit pollinators. General Description Monarda fistulosa, a member of the Lamiaceae (mint) family, is a deciduous perennial that grows grows 2-4’ tall and has a spread of 3-6’, growing in clumps. Flowers can be white, pale pink to lavender/ purple, with 2-lipped tubular petals, growing in a circular cluster. Leaves are opposite, lanceolate, toothed, aromatic, gray-green, up to 4” long. Each flower head rests upon a whorl of pinkish, leafy bracts. Stems are square. The bloom period is May - September. M. fistulosa is one of three Monarda plants that use the common name beebalm. Others are M. punctata (spotted beebalm) with its lavender blooms and M. didyma (scarlet beebalm) with deep red blooms. M. fistulosa is shorter in height and is not as aggressive as its cousins. The name bergamot is due to an aroma that reminds one of the bergamot orange, Citrus bergamia, which is used with black tea to make Earl Grey tea. It is important to use the scientific name Monarda fistulosa when searching to buy plants or seeds, since the common name wild bergamot is also sometimes used to refer to Monarda didyma.
Native Plant Highlight: Wild Bergamot / Monardafistulosa
Article by: Mary Alice maapple@mac.comApplegate
This article is courtesy of the Coast Plain Chapter of the Georgia Native Plant Society. The GNPS is dedicated to promoting the stewardship and conservation of Georgia’s native plants and their habitats. The Coastal Plain Chapter serves the people in the Coastal Plain ecoregion of Georgia. This includes all areas south of the Fall Line in middle Georgia, from the Alabama and Florida borders to the Atlantic ocean. To learn more, please visit their website Monarda fistulosa in poor dry soils of a meadow.
Photo: Elmer Verhasselt, Bugwood.org
Native Habitat Found in Zones 4 - 8, M. fistulosa grows in dry open woods, fields, wet meadows and ditches, and at the edges of woods and marshes on well-drained but moist sand, loam, and clay. It tolerates acid to lime pH, rich or poor soil. It can grow in sun (over 6 hours) or part shade (2-6 hours of direct sun) and can take the heat. Uses / Advantages in the Home Landscape Monarda fistulosa is a showy aromatic perennial to add to your herb garden, naturalized area or perennial border. The blooms are good for cut flower arrangements, and it is resistant to deer and rabbits. Another plus is its tolerance of black walnut. Medicinal and Edible Uses Long ago, there were multiple medicinal uses of wild bergamot. The oil from the leaves was used to treat respiratory ailments. Tea made from the leaves was used to treat colic, flatulence, colds, fevers, stomach aches, nosebleeds, insomnia and heart trouble. Poulticed leaves treated headaches. Teas from the flowers of the plant were used to sooth sore throat, reduce low fevers and cure colds. The oil extracted from leaves was used to dry up pimples. Leaves infused as a tea were used to relieve nausea, menstrual pain and insomnia. Steam inhalation was used to treat stuffy sinuses and sore throats. The Tewa Indians used wild bergamot leaves to flavor meats. The flowers are edible and the fragrant leaves can be used for perfume. Wildlife Benefit M. fistulosa attracts a number of specialist bees, bumble bees, predatory wasps, hummingbirds, and hawk moths. It is one of the best forage plants for bumble bees. Wild bergamot has been identified as a valuable monarch nectar plant. Basic Care Monarda fistulosa is best planted where there is sufficient air circulation and full sun to dry moisture on the leaves, since foliage can be susceptible to Wild bergamot flowers in June in my South Georgia yard. Photo: Mary Alice Applegate
38 (continued from page 37)
Seeds are
Seed Propagation M. fistulosa is very easy to start from seed. Collect seeds when they ripen, two months after the plant blooms. Some seeds do not need to be cold-stratified or over-wintered, but germination success may be enhanced with cold stratification. available plant species
from your local area. References Herbal Academy. Benefits of Bee Balm: Monarda Fistulosa and M. Didyma https://theherbalacademy. m-didyma/com/benefits-of-bee-balm-monarda-fistulosa-andHolm, H., 2014. Pollinators of Native Plants. Pollination Press; Minnetonka, MN. Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center: Northwildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=mofihttps://www.CarolinaExtensionGardenerTool Box: https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu/plants/monardafistulosa/ USDA NRCS Plant Fact Sheet: gov/DocumentLibrary/plantguide/pdf/pg_mofi.pdfhttps://plants.usda. Monarda didyma, with its deep red blooms, a relative to Monarda fistulosa. Photo: Mary Alice Applegate
sources say
39 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 powdery mildew. It is moderately drought tolerant, though it benefits from extra watering during dry summers. Monarda fistulosa can be propagated by root division or seeds. The plant colonizes by rhizomes, and it is good to lift and divide the plant every three years to improve circulation and improve vigor. March is a good time to divide, before stems grow up. Propagation by stem cuttings is also an option from May to August.
online from several sources, if you don’t have a friend who can share from their seed collecting. It is best to
Photo courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser 40
41 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022
Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser is the author of the best-selling memoir “Some Kinda Good.”
on page 42)
Some Kinda Good in the
Featured in Forbes, on Food Network and ABC, she writes about Southern, coastal cuisine, locally sourced and in-season. Connect with her on social media by liking Some Kinda Good on Facebook, or follow @SKGFoodBlog on Instagram and Twitter. To learn more, visit RebekahLingenfelser.com.
Neighborhood by Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser
Billy’s Botanicals farm bag delivery service is awesome, and if you haven’t heard, Southern Soil and I have partnered with them to bring you locally sourced recipes right here in my recurring (continued
September is Still Summer Summertime lasts through September 22, and even though it will soon be back-to-school time, the warm weather and the season’s best produce, like peaches and tomatoes, are still abundant. It can be tempting to mentally check out of summertime and begin beckoning fall, thinking of pumpkin spice and chili by the fire, but not just yet. As my favorite author, Elin Hilderbrand, says, “September is still Isummer.”visitedthe Richmond Hill Farmers’ Market on a rainy Saturday in July, and purchased a big basket of fuzzy, ripened peaches. When I talked with the farmer, they shared that the peaches had been picked that day in Jesup, Georgia. The peaches still had the leaves on them, fresh off the trees. I took them home and made my Brown-Butter Bourbon Peach Cobbler, and it was Some Kinda Good. That same day at the market, I got to meet Billy from Billy’s Botanicals farm in person, and it was great to thank him for all the farm fresh goods that are delivered directly to my front door. When you visit your local farmers’ market, talk to the farmers and get to know them. They often have great ideas on how to use Georgia grown food, and can answer any questions you have related to what they’re selling.
• Unsalted butter • Olive Oil • 4 Fresh Thyme Sprigs Set up a dredging station with three individual containers. In the first container, add flour and season with salt, pepper and Italian seasoning, mixing well to combine. In the second container, add the egg and a splash of water, and beat lightly with a fork. In the third container, add breadcrumbs and season with salt and pepper.
• 1 tsp salt • ½ tsp of pepper
42 article, Some Kinda Good in the Neighborhood. I love unbagging the ingredients to find all the local goodness to cook with during the week. My last delivery included a dozen farm fresh eggs, beautiful red snapper filets, sweet peppers, corn and more. I chopped the peppers, along with some onion and made a simple omelet with butter and fresh herbs. For dinner, I fried up the snapper and served it over grits made with chicken stock and finished with a drizzle of heavy cream. Red snapper are in season throughout the year and make a perfect, light and satisfying dinner. When coated in breadcrumbs, the flaky, white meat fish is crunchy and tender. Serve this dish to guests for an impressive and elegant dinner, or enjoy it as a dinner for two at home. Be sure to connect with me on social media for more local, in-season recipes and cooking tips. My debut memoir with recipes, Some Kinda Good, is also available wherever books are sold. Here’s to a continued good summer and eating more of what’s local and in-season.
• Two red snapper filets
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
Pat the fish filets dry and season on both sides with salt and pepper. In a medium saucepan, add 2 tablespoons of butter and a teaspoon of oil and set over medium heat. Coat each filet in the flour, egg wash and breadcrumbs, shaking off any excess. When the oil is hot and the butter has melted, place the filets in the pan and fry for three minutes on each side, or until golden brown. If the fat is absorbed, add more butter a tablespoon at a time. Garnish with fresh thyme leaves. Cook grits according to package directions. Serve fish over grits.
• 1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
(continued from page 41)
• 1 egg • 2 cups panko bread crumbs
Pan Fried Red Snapper with Grits
43 a growing food movement VOLUME 5 / SUMMER ISSUE 2022 Photos courtesy of Rebekah Faulk Lingenfelser Some Kinda Good!
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