SO NESPRESSO #33 • Copenhagen • EN

Copenhagen Louise Campbell: Poetic Designer • treasured terroir • coffee-break rituals • taking “zero waste” to heart • island get-away • sustainable furniture • delicious Nordic delights • hygge spirit

Maestro Christophe Claret is a natural-born anti-conformist who never misses out on a chance to express his creative audacity through original displays running counter to traditional design codes. Witness the large date and the MEMO, both cone shape.

A case with pure lines that are both gentle and forceful, an ultra-dynamic curving silhouette, a panoramic vantage point from which to admire the mechanical architecture‌ Maestro is first and foremost a distinctive signature, a daily art of living, a daring model.

www.christopheclaret.com

editorial

Coffee break Dear Reader, When strolling through Copenhagen, what is felt most profoundly is the city’s peaceful, harmonious ambiance. Bikes fill the streets, and pedestrians stop to sip coffee on café terraces the moment the sun’s first rays appear. Cobbled lanes and canals wind towards the celebrated Little Mermaid statue, straight out of the Hans Christian Andersen tale. But life in the Danish capital offers more than just fairytale sweetness: it’s also a metropolis on the cutting edge, inspiring innovative environmental policy, the most contemporary design and experimental food. In this issue, we explore this innovative spirit and introduce the creative minds and devoted inhabitants that call this place home.

Our first encounter is with Louise Campbell, an esteemed, world-renowned designer.

She invites us into her studio in Copenhagen’s Nørrebro district, as she puts the finishing touches on the graphic designs she created especially for our limited-edition, year-end offer. She is one of Denmark’s design pioneers. The country is renowned for its elegant, minimalist, functional furniture and is the birthplace of iconic articles like Arne Jacobsen’s Egg Chair or Hans J. Wegner’s The Chair.

Over the past 15 years, Copenhagen has also become one of the world’s fine-dining capitals. With daring chefs, innovative restaurants, a transformational terroir and avantgarde spirit, the city has evolved into an essential epicurean destination. We touch also upon the marvellous island of Bornholm, a place with a bewitching hold on the imaginations of recent Danish generations. Will you fall under its spell, too?

And then there’s coffee. Did you know that the Danes are among the planet’s biggest consumers of the beverage? The kaffepause is one of the country’s most universally enjoyed traditions. The same is the case across Scandinavia more broadly, where coffee has long been enjoyed black, shared with friends at any time of day. Then, try out our authentic, mouth-watering recipes, created especially to be savoured with your favourite Nespresso coffees. From cinnamon rolls to Danish pancakes, to hot dogs (an emblematic Danish snack), all are enjoyed best with coffee. Finally, as the festive season draws near, immerse yourself in the enveloping spirit of hygge, the quintessentially Danish combination of happiness, warmth, friendly ambiance and comfort.

May your reading and your coffee both offer you memorable moments, Jean-Marc Duvoisin Chief Executive Officer, Nestlé Nespresso S.A.

3

contents

SO NESPRESSO is published by the Nestlé Nespresso S.A Group.

Avenue d’Ouchy 4-6, 1006 Lausanne - Switzerland.

Publication Director Jean-Marc Duvoisin.

Executive Editor Lise Peneveyre.

Concept/Production Les Digitalistes, 9 rue Emilio Castelar 75012 Paris, France Tel.: +33 (0)1 43 44 55 20 contact@lesdigitalistes.com lesdigitalistes.com Editor-in-Chief Boris Coridian.

Art Director Virginie Oudard.

Coordinator Sophie Bouniot.

Editorial Secretary Amélie Modenese.

Collaborators for this Issue Morgane Aubin, Mickaël A. Bandassak, Aude Blanchard-Dignac, Célia Callois, Audrey Cosson, Jérôme Galland, Virginie Garnier, Nadia HamamMarty, Guillaume Jan, Caspar Miskin, Caroline Nedelec, Sandrine Place, Frédéric Stucin.

Cover photo Frédéric Stucin.

Translation TagLine.

Photolitho Compos Juliot.

Printer Mohn media Mohndruck Gmbh.

Advertising MHD SA Chemin du Bugnon 1 / CP 32 1803 Chardonne - Switzerland.

Customer Relationship Manager: Dominique Breschan.

Tel.: + 41 (0) 79 818 27 55 dominique.breschan@mhdsa.ch

12

32

This magazine and City Guide are printed on paper that is certified:

© Copyright 2019 Nestlé Nespresso S.A. All rights reserved.

Nespresso, the names of the various Nespresso coffee varieties and the Nespresso logos mentioned in SO NESPRESSO are trademarks of the Société des Produits Nestlé S.A. that may be registered in certain countries.

26

4

3 6 12

Editorial

26

Meet Designer Louise Campbell and Her Playful, Poetic World

32

Cosmopolitan Chefs and Their “Made in Denmark” Menus

42

Cult Object: the Chair, Danish Design’s Global Ambassador

44

Kaffepause: the Danish Ritual of the Coffee Break

The Five Senses of Copenhagen Brewer, Chef, Artist: the People Who Make Copenhagen

contents

64

50

Reducing Food Waste: Denmark on the Cutting Edge

54 64

Bornholm: Petite Island Paradise

68 76 84 90

Ethical & Ecological: Two Designers Make Furniture from Seaweed Gourmet Coffees Nordic-Inspired Limited Editions for the Festive Season Coffee Celebrities in the Spotlight Cooking Lesson: Hot Dogs with Coffee Barbecue Sauce, and an Americano-Style Master Origin India

42

54

84 68 5

five senses Every morning, between 200,000 and 300,000 bicycles swarm into Copenhagen’s centre. A silent hive of spokes and handlebars, emboldened by the city government, which is counting on pedal power to eliminate its carbon emissions by 2025. Nearly half of the city’s inhabitants travel on two wheels each day, whether for work or play.

The benefits of cycling are endless: with no exhaust fumes it isn’t polluting, it’s a great form of exercise and it’s one of the fastest ways to get around, given the city’s modest size.

6

gentle 7

Through the windows of homes, cafés and boutiques, you’ll see lights twinkle and glow as night falls. You’ll smell their reassuring scent. Candles, synonymous with comfort, are essential elements of hygge, a way of life that celebrates joyful serenity in warm, welcoming, intimate atmospheres, and helps people get through the long winter months. Discover Danish savoir-faire in these handmade candles from renowned Danish brand Ester & Erik.

breath

cinq sens Since 1958, the Louisiana Museum of Modern Art has provided the most beautiful backdrop for the work of Danish and international geniuses in painting, sculpture, photography and video: from Picasso, Kandinsky, Warhol and Lichtenstein to Ernst, Heerup and Miró. It is a landscape that inspires contemplation, where nature blends with man-made creations, like this Calder mobile facing the horizon and neighbouring Sweden. A dazzling adventure for the senses that absolutely must be experienced‌and less than 40 kilometres from Copenhagen.

panorama 9

There’s the melting tenderness of smoked salmon, the richness of chive-seasoned mayonnaise, the tartness of pickled fennel, the crunch of mustard seeds and the feathery freshness of dill – all atop a slice of chewy rye bread served at Aamanns 1921. This is what is called a smørrebrød. We owe the renaissance of this great classic of Danish cuisine to Chef Adam Aamann, who owns several establishments in Copenhagen. “Cooks everywhere had entirely abandoned it, the situation had become truly shameful,” he says. “Since I opened my first outlet in 2006, the city has become more open to different kinds of cuisine.”

To sink your teeth into a smørrebrød is to understand Denmark in a single bite.

textures 10

five senses

Photos: Frédéric Stucin. Special thanks to: Ester & Erik, Louisiana, Aamanns and CopenHot

warmth

It’s the friendliest, liveliest wellbeing spot in Copenhagen. At CopenHot, on the tip of the old industrial island of Refshaleøen and across the water from The Little Mermaid, you can soak in a 40°C hot tub while sipping a beer or a glass of champagne, then dive down for a swim in the harbour’s cool, clear waters, before returning to warm up in the sauna with panoramic views of the city. An unforgettable experience.

11

trailblazers

Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, intuitive brewer.

Anne Dvinge, home-concert deliverywoman.

Making Copenhagen From music to dining to urban farming, a new generation of talent is shaking up the Danish capital.

By Boris Coridian and Guillaume Jan Photos MickaĂŤl A. Bandassak

12

trailblazers

Remee, hit machine..

Richard Hart, bread lover.

Kristian Skaarup and Livia Urban Swart Haaland, high-flying farmers.

Rosio Sรกnchez, Danish taco-maker.

13

trailblazers

In the space of a few months, Richard Hart bakery has become the Place to Be for bread aesthetes

T

here's a quintessentially Danish expression to encourage someone to remain calm: “Spis brød til.” It translates literally as “eat some bread,” demonstrating the importance of the foodstuff to the local culture. Baker Richard Hart is not from around here – he’s a Londoner. After years as a chef in California, then as head baker at the Tartine Bakery in San Francisco, he moved to Copenhagen in 2017 at the invitation of Rene Redzepi, the celebrated chef of Noma. Together, in late 2018, they opened Hart Bageri. As they cross the threshold of his shop, the buttery scent of tebirkes – almond cream-filled rolls sprinkled with poppy seeds – and kardemomme boller – tender-flaky cardamom rolls – whisk their happy customers to a tantalising world of taste. His quest for the perfect bread seems never-ending: “The crust must sing; it must be both glossy and crispy. It has to show every shade, from the white of the flour to nearly black. Its perfection lies in its imperfection.”

He goes on: “We make hundreds every day, but we only achieve perfection three or four times a year. It’s rare, because there are so many factors involved in achieving it.” Every day, his leavened loaves contrast with the black bread that is omnipresent in Denmark.

“In this country, we usually eat rye bread with lots of seeds. Which I love, by the way! René Redzepi pushed me to really understand the emotional connection Danes have with rye bread and how to make it. I think that we’ve now reached a pretty good level, but we’re still improving!” enthuses the master of long fermentation, whose black bread is sold only on Saturdays. “The only thing I’m aiming for here is having a child or a grandmother take pleasure in my bread.” On the day of our conversation, another chef – Rasmus Kofoed, the three Michelin-star culinary artist at the Geranium restaurant – came in to enjoy a pastry before going about his business. “That’s the beauty of a baker’s job: being able to feed everyone,” Richard remarks, smiling. _

Richard started the bakery by making bread on his days off. “And I fell in love with it...”

14

“ Here, we work based

on experience more than on technique: we taste and we think ”

Hart Bageri will never become a chain: “If you get too big, you risk compromising your product.”

Every Saturday – the biggest day of the week –, 450 balls of leavened dough, 120 of rye and a thousand pastries are baked in the ovens.

“The crust must sing; it must be both glossy and crispy.”

15

trailblazers

Anne Dvinge, with help from her team, organises concerts in apartments and wants to change the rules of the musical economy The Low-Fi electric band.

Final soundboard adjustments for Mathias Vinther Lilholt of the pop duo Feel Freeze.

W

hen Feel Freeze’s two musicians enter the living room of this downtown apartment, the audience (twenty people) applauds warmly. “This is the first time we’ve played unplugged,” says Raymonde Gaunoux into the mic, while picking up his folk guitar before Mathias Vinther Lilholt begins an a cappella number that gives the spectators goosebumps. The audience and performers are instantly connected by an intense sense of intimacy and the room becomes an enchanted cocoon while this pocket concert, organised by the Low-Fi label, unfolds. “Our objective is to help musicians play in people’s homes,” says Anne Dvinge, co-founder of the platform, which also wants to lay the foundation for an international network of artists and

16

individuals. “We’re not concert producers,” says Stine Hulvey, the start-up’s other founder. “We just put groups in touch with those who want to host them in their living rooms. It’s up to them to choose the date of the event and the price.” “In fact, we work like a dating site,” laughs Dvinge. Since its founding in 2015, Low-Fi has organised a dozen concerts a month, mainly in Copenhagen. It boasts 4,000 members. In this day and age, with record sales becoming a thing of the past and digitised music being almost free to consume, these events are the greatest source of income for the artists.

This is what led these two thirty-somethings to drop their respective jobs and embark on this adventure by creating their company, which today employs seven people and is beginning to draw curious investors. _

Low-Fi co-founder Anne Dvinge.

“ Our platform works like a dating site”

The groups performing these pocket concerts and their audiences enter a state of spontaneous intimacy.

The living room becomes an enchanted cocoon.

17

têtes chercheuses

The intuitive Mikkel Borg Bjergsø, founder of a craft brewery, is not afraid to break with convention

Mikkeller’s unmistakable visual identity has been the work of designer Keith Shore since 2010.

T

his is the story of a mathematics teacher who started brewing craft beer in his kitchen for fun and became a veritable hops mogul. In 2003, at the age of 27, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø first began to brew. “In the beginning, I was just trying to reproduce the taste of the beers I liked to drink,” recalls the tall, slim businessman. Back in those days, original, high-quality beers were piquing interest in many countries around the world; festivals became a standard event and Mikkel started entering tasting contests (which he won quite regularly). With support from a journalist friend, Kristian Klarup Keller, he founded the Mikkeller label. “To keep pace with all the orders we were getting, I cut back on my hours at the high school, before stopping completely in 2010.” In his spacious offices in Carlsberg,

18

trailblazers The Mikkeller General Store in Copenhagen.

“Variety is our signature.

Our goal is to make beer more present in restaurants”

In the lobby of the company’s offices, visitors are greeted by five beer taps.

the Copenhagen quarter that until 2008 was home to the original factory of the Danish brewing giant of the same name, Bjergsø continues his dizzying entrepreneurial rise. “We’ve made more than 800 different beers as of today. We export to 40 countries and Mikkeller has 700 employees worldwide.

We’ve opened bars and restaurants in a number of countries, with locations in Tokyo, San Diego, New York, Brussels, Paris and the Faroe Islands. We have 20 locations in Copenhagen alone.” Though he’s considered an avant-garde entrepreneur, he insists his lack of experience is part of his success: “I didn’t go to business school – I just follow my instincts”, he says, adding, “variety is our signature. Our goal is to make beer more present in restaurants, because the dining culture has become quite important in Denmark.” He seems to be heading in the right direction. _

19

trailblazers

Remee, Denmark’s most recognisable songwriter, is watching the city awaken

E

veryone in Copenhagen knows who he is. At age 44, Remee is a show-business stalwart. Talented, creative, enthusiastic, he brings people together in his work as both songwriter and music producer (he has written about sixty hits for performers in several countries and has sold 25 million records worldwide). He is a well-known face on Danish TV and owns several of the capital’s nightlife venues, including Arch, a lively, original nightclub with gorgeous lighting and impeccable acoustics. “I started playing drums when I was 12, then I learned to play other instruments, like the guitar, but without a disciplined approach. To this day, I don’t know the names of the chords when I play a song. What interests me is the emotion that flows from it.” He wrote his first hit at the tender age of 15, quickly signed a contract with a record company and began churning out chart-topping songs. At 22, the young talent produced the pop duo S.O.A.P. that went on to sell two million records around the world. Though Copenhagen’s music scene has long struggled to find a space in the global spotlight, the songwriter believes that the game has changed since the arrival of online platforms like Spotify. “Now everyone has access to all types of music, and music makes life better, right?” He smiles, adding “we live in a flat, cold, grey country far from the big European cities. The Danish mentality was introverted for a long time.

But now that’s all changing – you can feel a different energy, greater openness, new generations coming up with lots of good ideas; we’re on the leading edge of the ecological, gastronomic and architectural scenes, and the kids who are growing up here now are especially lucky, because they have access to every kind of sport, recreation, and the public services are very effective. It’s as though we finally came out of our shell!” _

20

têtes chercheuses The producer is now the owner of Skindbuksen, Copenhagen’s oldest restaurant, which opened in 1728.

His club, Arch, captures his idea of what it means to party – high-tech and fun-friendly.

“Today, you can feel

a different energy, greater openness” 21

trailblazers

Kristian Skaarup’s rooftop farm is also an excellent restaurant

22

A

top this vast building in the north of the city, Kristian Skaarup, 39, strolls down pathways and around flowerbeds rattling off the plants he grows here: “We have cabbages and broccoli over here, right there are carrots, radishes and asparagus, over there we grow strawberries and raspberries...” Østergro, the first urban rooftop farm to be established in Denmark, opened in 2014 and is home to 350m2 of organic crops along with flowers, beehives, a henhouse and a rabbit hutch. In the middle stands a glass greenhouse-cum-dining room with a long table that can seat 25 and where gourmet, local cuisine is served to a rapt clientele, thrilled to have discovered this oasis 12 metres above the ground, with panoramic views of the city and the cranes of the port. “What motivated us to create this place? Climate change. In 2010 and 2011,

the city saw torrential rains that caused severe flooding. So the local government wanted to better prepare for these natural disasters, which are likely to become more frequent, and promised to make Copenhagen the first carbon-neutral capital by 2025. Funding was made available and we proposed this farm project and were able to get to work on it in short order.” At the time, Kristian, a trained urban planner and landscaper, was focusing his work on making life more pleasant in the city’s neighbourhoods by developing green spaces. The desire to create a farm on a rooftop came to him during a trip to the United States, where he discovered community gardens and direct-to-consumer farm sales.

With the help of two friends, Sofie Brincker and Livia Urban Swart Haaland, he made the dream a reality and was greeted by deluge of positive feedback in his home country, where environmental issues are treated as a serious priority. “In addition to the restaurant, we prepare about twenty weekly baskets for sale, filled with our own produce. We’re not trying to supply all of Copenhagen, but to show that, even here in the city, we can eat local, healthy and natural food.” Other farms are expected to open in the months to come. _

Every Wednesday, volunteers come to help tend the gardens.

“Even here in the city, we can eat local, healthy and natural food” A sunset is a backdrop for guests at the restaurant’s unique dining table.

Practising his own version of communitysupported agriculture, Østergro sells his fruits and vegetables directly to consumers.

23

Mexican flavours and Danish ingredients, all prepared and presented with the Sanchez touch.

Chef Rosio Sánchez captivates Copenhageners with her new-fangled Mexican cuisine

T

o travel from Copenhagen to Mexico City, you’ll need to cross about 9,510 kilometres of land and sea. Fortunately, the Hija de Sanchez taquería, a summery, open-sided stall perched on a sidewalk in the Danish capital’s old slaughterhouse district, could easily pass for an authentic, street-grown taco stand straight out of the Mexican megalopolis. Tortillas (thin corn pancakes) are made daily from traditional masa (dough). The salsas (sauces) are made with fresh, local ingredients, and the piquant punch of peppers imported from the Americas. As soon as the weather is warm enough, a perfectly turned-out crowd lines up at its counters to feast eagerly on “made in Copenhagen” tacos. In less forgiving seasons, guests take refuge in the cosy dining room of the Sanchez restaurant, just a tortilla’s toss from Hija de Sanchez.

Foodies hope to meet the establishment’s chef, who forged her reputation while working as the pastry chef at Noma. Rosio Sánchez comes from a generation of culinary artists who honed their trade there with the benevolent guidance of René Redzepi, and have since chosen to stay in the Danish capital. “I grew up in Chicago and still have family in Mexico. But I now consider myself a true Copenhagener. And that conviction

24

trailblazers

“We write our

own story, invent our own tastes” Hija de Sanchez – two takeaway taco stands in Copenhagen.

Rosio Sánchez’s instructions on how to eat a taco.

The al pastor taco (spit-grilled meat): authentic and delicious.

became official in 2018 when I opened the Sanchez.

After nine years here, I feel well-established with my three businesses [she also has a summer-only counter in the Torvehallerne market – Ed.]. The way my business is structured, I can really make the most of living here,” she says. Her multiculturalism is one of her assets. “The Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles, Chicago or New York aren’t really exactly like those in Mexico City. Even if they’re all very good. The same goes here – we write our own story, invent our own tastes,” Sánchez proudly explains. “It’s a way to represent Mexico in a positive light. We simply add a Copenhagen touch.” Like her cod empanada, a turnover filled with cod, cooked in tomato sauce and topped with cream and wild sorrel. A delectable treat. Having lived in Denmark for close to a decade, Rosio can see how much her adopted city has changed. “Sunday used to be really... dead. But today, every time I leave Copenhagen, I realise how lucky I am to live here.

Well, it’s true that the shops still close at 6 p.m. and we still don’t have any real Chinese or Thai restaurants – but what a privilege to be part of this delicious revolution!” _

25

celebration

The Nordic inspirations of Louise Campbell With her playful, poetic creations, Louise Campbell brings a spontaneous charm to the world of traditional Danish design. Her work is now on display in museums around the world. Enchanted by her artistry, Nespresso asked her to design the visual identity of the brand’s year-end, limited-edition offer.

Meet the person behind the pattern.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Frédéric Stucin

26

Louise Campbell in her studio holding her own graphic-design work on a Festive Limited Edition of the Pixie Lungo cup.

celebration

O

n the top floor of a building in the Nørrebro neighbourhood, Louise Campbell weaves her wondrous world. At first glance, her fresh, bright studio appears tidily organised – until a longer look reveals that it is in fact peppered with myriad details, each expressing the artist’s creativity and poetic temperament. Silk fish hanging from the ceiling seem to swim around her, sharing the space with gigantic textile reeds expanding across the white walls.

On the milk-white parquet floor is an armchair, peculiarly shaped like a pristine corolla, and made entirely of circles: the Veryround chair, one of her most emblematic pieces.

On the shelves of the bookcase, tomes on famous art stand cover-to-cover with photo albums, classic and contemporary novels, and anthologies of English and Danish poetry. Welcome to the creative lair of one of the bestknown and best-loved designers in the Kingdom of Denmark. Born to an English father and a Danish mother, this cosmopolitan 40-something chose an expressive path that reflects both her parents’ cultures, giving her playful and experimental creations twice the charm. “Danish design extols uncluttered, minimalist lines, creations that get straight to the practical point,” she says, as she serves us coffee.

“But English culture is less disciplined, leaving more room for ornamentation.

My paternal grandmother had flowers everywhere in the house – I thought that was very pretty.”

Taking time to savour the moment

When she discovered London at age 15, Louise was enthralled by English freedom of expression: “I was especially fascinated by the ease with which the British could mix their sources of inspiration: a painting can influence the tone of a novel, whose theme can be reiterated in a song or a sculpture,

and so on.” She soaked up everything she heard, everything she saw, and felt increasingly at ease with the artistic disciplines. But to the point of making it her career? Her parents found the notion disconcerting, preferring their daughter to pursue a more stable, conventional path. Her father sat her down for long conversations on the subject, trying to reason with her. “One day, when I was 17, we were driving around and he brought the subject up yet again. To cut the conversation short, while we were passing a furniture store, I told him that was what I wanted to do, design furniture. And that’s how I became a designer!”

She began her training at the London College of Furniture. Then, at 23, she returned to Copenhagen to continue her studies at the Danish Design School, specialising in industrial design, where she developed the full range of skills she needed to design and craft furnishings. “I was thrilled to be back in this country,” she says, smiling. When asked which aspect of her origins is most important to her, she doesn’t hesitate: “I feel more Danish than English. I tend to seek simplicity in all things.” She has no trouble explaining why she preferred staying in Copenhagen: “The spirit of this city is relaxed, natural and direct. That goes for design as much as it does for architecture, food or human interaction.

We trust one another – people are honest, for the most part, and we rarely lock our doors. Another advantage is how close everything is, less than twenty minutes away by bike, which isn’t the case in London. People are approachable, and when you have coffee with a friend, you take the time to savour the moment, to be in the now. The air is unpolluted; the sea’s clean enough to swim in right in the middle of town. Copenhageners care

28

deeply about the environment – they’d rather travel by bike than by car and they’re meticulous about how much waste they generate. On that subject, we take recycling very seriously in Denmark. My design work focuses on making solid, sturdy things that will last a long time.”

Poetic landscapes

Relaxed, warm, passionate – Louise Campbell expresses a vibrant spontaneity and open hospitality similar to what can be felt in her collaboration with Nespresso. “My goal is to convey the Nordic vibration in a snap,” Louise explains concisely, snapping her own fingers while immediately adding, “but this lifestyle is rich and complex, composed of multiple cultures, multiple histories, many different places.

As I thought about what would bring us together best, I found that nature was our loveliest common denominator. Nature that is wild, beautiful, almost fantastical – wide open spaces, where the cold reigns in winter.”

Even if we’re city-dwellers, natural elements permeate our imaginations.

Express Bio 1970 Born in Copenhagen.

1995 Graduated from the Danish School of Design in Copenhagen.

1996 Opened her first studio in central Copenhagen, working for big names such as Louis Poulsen, Royal Copenhagen, Holmegaard, Stelton, Muuto, Interstop and the Danish Ministry of Culture.

2005 Her pendant luminaire designed for Louis Poulsen won the Gold Medal at the iF Product Design Awards (one of the world’s most renowned design awards).

2019 The year-end holiday line, created through her collaboration with Nespresso, is officially launched.

Handcrafted fabric pendant luminaires made for a 2014 exhibition in Cologne.

The Prince Chair in steel, felt and rubber, designed for Hay (2001).

Royal Copenhagen porcelain, with a design that Louise Campbell has been updating since 2008.

The Veryround Chair in laser-cut steel circles, made in 2006 for the Italian brand Zanotta.

This is the first time that capsules of the same coffee will each vary in design.

The limited-edition coffees for the holiday season are inspired by Nordic culture.

The ripples of the topographic maps form the matrix of a natural, soothing world.

Artistry that is precise, bold and easily recognisable.

Her delicate hues and undulating lines are also on the Festive Limited Edition Pixie cup range.

celebration

precise, bold and easily recognisable, showing great attention to detail – her English side. This is the first time the Copenhagener has handled the final version of the capsules. Each presents a graphic design slightly different from the others in the same sleeve, a first for Nespresso. “It may look like a successfully completed project today, but when it was in the development phase, it felt to me like the hardest project I’d ever had to do,” says Louise as she brings us another coffee – a lungo served in Royal Copenhagen porcelain cups that bear the design she revamped herself for the legendary brand.

“I tend to seek simplicity in all things.”

When I was seeking inspiration, I looked closely at the character of Nordic cities and territories. I saw sharply cut coastlines, very steep mountains, especially in the fjords of Norway. I continued my research and started focusing on geological maps. That’s when I realised that the good idea I’d been hunting for several weeks was right under my feet!”

The multi-coloured curves, inspired by topographic surveys of the Far North, form the matrix of this stimulating work. This design will be used across the entire offer for the holiday season, available in limited edition.

Coffee capsules inspired by Nordic culture, Pixie cups, and the décor in Nespresso Boutiques around the world – all will be graced with these refreshing, natural patterns.

For our first meeting, Louise tracked down the early mock-up pieces for the project, and arranges them on the broad work table in the middle of her studio. Some are on paper, some printed on thin metal plates, others laser-cut so the designer could shape them into a 3D capsule for a sense of volume. The pastel colours are reminiscent of the light Scandinavian pastries that inspired the aromas of the limited-edition coffees. The shapes are

Recipe for happiness

She began drinking coffee in England rather late - at 20 years old. “I have a clear recollection of my first sip, when one of my best friends served me a perfectly prepared Turkish coffee.”

When she returned to Copenhagen to continue her design schooling, she quickly adopted Danish-style coffee consumption: long coffees, sipped over time. “Especially since we sometimes worked 24 hours straight when we had deadlines to respect for plans and our coffee kept us company.”

The Anglo-Dane has noticed how bean quality has improved over the last twenty years: “In the 1990s, we only drank industrial grade –it was rather tasteless and they were all the same. Then coffee options began to improve in the 2000s. Today, Denmark is very picky about coffee quality and choice, to the point that it’s considered rude not to offer your guests a cup of high-quality coffee. Nespresso’s perfect for that – the coffee machines make life so much easier!” A pleasant environment, some relaxed conversation, a cup of coffee in hand: suddenly, without even having tried, we are in a moment of hygge, the quintessential Danish recipe for happiness that has captured the public imagination for years, and which happens naturally and gracefully in Louise Campbell’s workshop. _

The timeless, universal savoir-faire of Scandinavian design Uncluttered, simple and sleek, built to be functional and user-friendly, in finely finished natural materials, giving each object – and the style as a whole –a distinctive personality. This tradition of Danish design, which first appeared in the 1920s, hasn’t aged one bit and is now more appropriate than ever, as the size of urban interiors continues to shrink. After World War II, design entered its first golden age in Denmark, when cabinetmakers’ associations created furniture that appealed to young couples moving into apartments, or modest houses in the residential suburbs. The style was driven by a single idea: craft furnishings that are simple, so they remain easy to produce and affordable to the broadest segment of the population.

Today, Danish design is making a comeback across the planet.

Its roots go deep into our common history – from the clarity of Asian philosophies to more modern influences, like Bauhaus, the German design school. Perhaps simplicity is indeed the first step toward sophistication.

31

gastronomy

Naturally speaking The “New Nordic Cuisine” revolution spotlights the dramatic changes taking place across the Scandinavian terroir. A gastronomic sensation shaped by cosmopolitan chefs, crafted with home-grown Danish ingredients and marked by a gustatory richness that has been little explored – until now.

By Boris Coridian Photos Mickaël A. Bandassak

33

“I love watching a customer taste sea urchin for the first time in their life...”

Beau Clugston, Chef at Iluka

“These sea urchins were caught in the Faroe Islands, that remote archipelago between Iceland and Norway that’s part of the Kingdom of Denmark. In my opinion, that’s where the most delicious sea urchins on the planet are to be found,” says Australian chef Beau Clugston, with eyes as blue as the pure waters of the North Atlantic. His Iluka restaurant – open for dinner only – addresses an astonishing deficiency in Copenhagen: though the capital is surrounded by salt water, it is hard to find establishments that have seafood on the menu. “Denmark was built around fishing and the fish trade. The country has access to incredible seafood, but it’s exported to the major European capitals that are willing to pay a higher price for it,” laments the chef. Iluka’s menu bucks that trend: shellfish, fish served raw or lightly cooked, toothsome crustaceans: all caught through responsible fishing practices. The salty, almost sweet, sea urchins are a particular highlight, bursting with oceanic aromas. They are served whole atop slices of toasted bread, on which the glistening, feather-light flesh is delicately arranged. Though the product is Danish, the country’s inhabitants are not yet familiar with this delicacy. “For our local customers,

it’s often the first time they’ve ever eaten sea urchin, and some had never even seen one up close in their entire lives,” laughs the cook, who grew up in a fishing town in New South Wales, Australia. “I love watching a customer taste sea urchin for the first time in their life,” the aptly named Beau chuckles. “What’s great about the Danes is their open-mindedness. They have their own gastronomic culture, but it’s not as old and vast as the ones in, say, France or Italy. And that encourages them to try these Nordic ingredients that are gaining recognition.” However, though the big steps are being taken, Beau’s experience suggests that there might still be a way to go: “I have a dish on the menu that’s made from herring. People have been eating this fish for several centuries: pickled, fermented, salted, dried – it’s an inexpensive fish you can find everywhere. But no-one eats it raw! We serve it tartare-style at Iluka.

Fortunately, our customers from the neighbourhood trust us, because they couldn’t believe you could eat it that way. Even René Redzepi, with whom I worked for ten years at Noma, had never eaten herring in this form before having it at Iluka.”

Iluka, Peder Skrams Gade 15, Copenhagen

Kristian Baumann, Chef at 108

Can a root vegetable harvested at season’s end, stored for a month in the cellar, become a gourmet dish? Just visit the 108 restaurant, a high-ceilinged venue with a rugged, unvarnished elegance, and you’ll be convinced it can. “People’s mind-sets are changing, and our customers are now accepting the idea that a Michelin-starred restaurant serves more than just filet mignon and truffles,” says the chef, whose establishment was unexpectedly awarded its first star in 2018. “I like rutabaga and I’ve been cooking it for a long time. I like all the different ways you can prepare it, cook it and serve it. In the spring, I steam it. What interests me is working with this ingredient in a way that gives me a melon-like texture.” Here it’s served in round slices with blackcurrant crisps, a full-flavoured gooseberry juice, some almond oil and the fresh herbs he has on hand. The dish erases, in a single bite, any of the earthy memories one might have of traditional turnip. Kristian’s interest in this ingredient is commensurate with his commitment to disseminating knowledge about the Danish terroir to his staff and customers. “Our cuisine isn’t limited to the idea of the ‘New Nordic Cuisine’. It’s clearly identified as Copenhagen cuisine with several distinct foundations: wild picking, seasonality and fermentation, like the miso made from leftover bread that we use in a dessert. We own a hectare of land on which nearly 220 species of fruit and vegetable grow. We grow several varieties of Jerusalem

“The rutabaga can be prepared in endless ways” artichoke and cucumber, but also rarer ingredients like shiso (an aromatic plant native to Japan) and tomatillo (a small tomato from Mexico). We don’t succeed every time, of course – two years ago, we grew corn that was absolutely horrible!” the chef laughs.. What constitutes a local ingredient? What’s a “heritage recipe”? “You have to remember that the traditional Danish dish is meatballs in curry sauce.

This boller i karry is sometimes served with rice, but not a single grain of it grows in Denmark. Changing people’s way of thinking takes time! And that’s what I find most satisfying about my work: being a part of this cultural, ecological and even social revolution.

We’re doing our part.”

108, Strandgade 108, Copenhagen

“Turbot is without a doubt one of the best fish to be found in the region”

Nick Curtin, Chef at Alouette

Nick. “This is without a doubt one of the best fish to be found in the region. The deep, cold waters between Denmark and Sweden are the perfect environment for it to develop,” says this man who chose the calm of Copenhagen after initially pursuing a career in the maelstrom of New York. At Alouette, the ingredient is the star of the gastronomic creations. “We like to work with ingredients that we can use completely, every bit.

Turbot is one such ingredient – the bones and gelatine have very strong flavours. We could use herring or mackerel, both of which are also excellent, but turbot has such a wide range of possibilities! Every bite explodes in your mouth.” Having fallen in love with Denmark and its people, Nick also fell for its terroir: “The products here are so different from what we find in America. The lobster is amazing; the squid is the best I know – huge, sweet, creamy. Denmark is discovering its own treasures. Our strawberries are like rubies – firm, luscious, sublime. Last year, we served a dish composed exclusively of berries prepared a variety of ways. It was like serving a bowl of Danish sunshine.”

“This dish is turbot in its purest form. The plate has nothing on it but a piece of fish and a sauce, that’s it,” says American chef Nick Curtin in the open kitchen of his Alouette restaurant. “The idea is to completely forget about the technical skill and work it takes to make this recipe and focus entirely on the taste. But the sauce made from fish bones, chicken broth, lemon oil and cream takes three days to cook,” he says, smiling.

Alouette is remarkably adept at discretion, in fact: we couldn’t find the restaurant’s entrance, and just the path one must take to find the upper floor is worth it simply to discover the place. And, though walking into the dining room triggers complete surprise, the dishes are absolutely forthright and crystal-clear. The ingredients seem to have been barely altered, as demonstrated by the turbot dish. “We’re not trying to promote ourselves – we’re paying tribute to this remarkable fish. Our objective is to capture the vibrations of the sea, the land and all the flavours encapsulated in these incredible ingredients and convey them to our customers,” says the cook, whose establishment was awarded a Michelin star just a few months after opening. The desire to highlight turbot was a natural choice for

Alouette, Sturlasgade 14P, 1, Copenhagen

37

Anika Madsen, Chef at Roxie

“The Danish plate can’t be defined by its wealth of ingredients. We just don’t have an infinite number of unique ingredients – our climate doesn’t make that possible. But this territory pushes us – both cooks and growers – to explore every option that nature offers. And then to improve upon these vegetables, fruits and animal- or fish-industry products all around us,” says young chef Anika Madsen, who runs the kitchens at Roxie. This restaurant, located in the luxury boutique hotel Herman K, is the “little sister” of the Kadeau family, a group of several locations in Copenhagen and on Bornholm Island, all acclaimed for their quality. Anika Madsen embodies this new generation of chefs – she’s 26 – trained in the New Nordic Cuisine (often referred to in Scandinavian countries in English as “New Nordic Kitchen”, an approach expressed in its own manifesto drafted in 2004.). Roxie is electrifying the Copenhagen food scene with exciting, succulent dishes. Like Anika’s celery dish showcasing a vegetable that doesn’t always generate enthusiasm. “I ask the farmer who supplies us to harvest it before it’s fully grown. When it’s young, it doesn’t have the same flavour. The idea is this: how can I turn this root vegetable, one that’s so strongly associated with winter, into a summer ingredient? When it spends less time in the ground, it reveals other flavours, like a hazelnut taste,” says the Danish chef. She admits that taking on this root vegetable is indeed a challenge in the land of long winters: “At home, people eat it in winter. Simply because there’s not much else.” Yet, once the dish arrives, it turns out to be a bombshell of flavours. The dish’s name sums up the philosophy of the young woman, who has developed her culinary skills under the benevolent wing of Kadeau. “All that celery has to offer, from head to toe” is composed of celery purée and tagliatelle of fermented celery mixed with a few slices of squid, like a trompe-l’œil. The smoky aromas of the hay in which the vegetable ends its cooking completes the fragrant ensemble. But Roxie’s horizons don’t stop at the North Sea. “We give ourselves permission to use ingredients from elsewhere. But the cooking principles are the same. We simply use what we want to use, like the ginger grown locally by our farmer. We also play with the origins of the recipes we serve. Like these onion fritters from India – we give them a Danish twist with ingredients harvested on Bornholm Island.”

Roxie, Bremerholm 6, Copenhagen

38

gastronomy

“When it spends less time in the ground, it reveals other flavours, like a hazelnut taste�

Thorsten Schmidt, Chef at Barr

The jars are some of the first things customers see when they enter the Barr restaurant. Inside these glass containers are berries by the thousands, multi-coloured citrus, green tomatoes being preserved to prepare for the colder season when picking is impossible. And in many of them are small, greenish-yellow fruits with a slightly oblong shape that at once make one think of Mediterranean olives.

The master of the house, Thorsten Schmidt, says, “Those are unripe wild mirabelle plums, preserved like olives.” At Barr, the restaurant that took over the premises left vacant when Noma moved, our

tastes buds are trying out a little-known territory that nevertheless is quite vast. Here, the Germanborn chef treats the North Sea basin as his culinary playground. “From a gastronomic standpoint, we often talk about the Mediterranean basin as a unit, a coherent whole. Same goes for the North Sea: everything’s connected. The beer culture is a good example, as is the recipe for the waffles you can find from Belgium to Scandinavia.” This ingenious idea is available in a menu where smoked mackerel shares space with schnitzel or whey-glazed cod tail, the chef’s signature dish. “I’m really trying to construct an intelligible culinary language.

And doing that entails exploring products that can become the basic ingredients.” That’s the objective of the “olives” in the jars: making those mirabelles an iconic ingredient in Nordic cupboards, as their bitter taste, firm texture and central pit are powerfully reminiscent of the green olives snacked on as an appetiser. “The mirabelle plum is common in Denmark and this brining technique is typically Nordic, which is why I chose this ingredient.

It’s quite easily found in the wild, growing along the edges of fields. The inspiration came to me when tasting an unripe plum – they’re very sour and reminded me of lemons! It made me want to work with other products picked before maturity, like mirabelles.” In the chef’s dishes, they give a boost to the frikadelle made from lamb and pork, topped with a snowy, translucent slice of bacon and served with broad beans, mustard leaves and white currants.

Barr, Strandgade 93, Copenhagen

“The mirabelle plum is common in Denmark, as is brining�

Ant Chair, Arne Jacobsen Bow Chair, Grete Jalk

J39 Chair, Børge Mogensen Peacock Chair, Hans J. Wegner

cult object

Thrones for the masses The global success of Denmark-made chairs reflects Danish designers’ skill when it comes to blending comfort and elegance, in styles meant for ordinary folk.

By Nadia Hamam-Marty

Designmuseum Danmark

H

ow is it that Danish chairs are so simply ingenious? It is a question that crosses the mind of many an aesthete when visiting Copenhagen’s Designmuseum Danmark. Like a fantastic curio cabinet, this specialised gallery displays the evolution of the country’s seating solutions over the course of the 20th century. One hundred or so chairs - armchairs, rocking chairs and more – stand as graceful relics of Danish furniture’s golden age (19201970), and as reminders of its impact on design across the planet. Exhibition highlights include Arne Jacobsen’s 1952 Ant Chair, originally designed for a pharmaceutical company canteen, which singlehandedly triggered a renaissance in the world of furniture. Another piece to note is Hans J. Wegner’s Round Chair – the unintended

co-star of the first televised U.S. presidential debate between Senator John F. Kennedy and Vice President Richard M. Nixon – introduced Danish style to the watching world in 1960. Then there is designer Grete Jalk’s 1963 Bow Chair, a wooden lounger with inviting curves. There is also the revolutionary, Panton Chair, moulded from plastic by Verner Panton, that rocketed Danish lifestyle into the pop-culture galaxy in 1967. These models are emblematic of Scandinavian design, and have gone down in history as having shaped the future of the modern-day chair. To this day, generations of designers look to these masterpieces as sources of inspiration. Such anatomically-conscious microarchitecture is an immense technical, ergonomic and structural feat, and the Danes have become the undisputed leaders of this kind of home design, crafting articles that are

43

comfortable, liveable and practical. The evolution of chair is the perfect example of the Danish commitment to mastering an art, as designers today continue to hone their craft, seeking more innovative ways to achieve function and style while compromising neither. Not to be overlooked is the Danes’ expert attention to their choice of materials, their skilful execution, close collaboration between designers and craftspersons, and their tremendous discipline in the field of design education. Aware of how essential good furniture is to well-being, the Danes spare no expense when buying heritage pieces that will be passed down from one generation to the next. Indeed, these iconic pieces are often superb investments, as their rising prices at antique shows, flea markets and on vintage-design websites reflect, and as savvy collectors and antiques buffs have known for some time. _

urban tempo

How about taking a kaffepause?

In Copenhagen, enjoying a cup of coffee – alone or with a friend – is a ritual that’s honoured several times a day. A moment of pleasurable solace taken at home, at work or in one of the many coffee shops springing up around the city.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickael A. Bandassak

44

“Holding a warm cup in your hands is the first step to hygge,� explains Danish design influencer Allan Torp.

urban tempo

Atelier September in the old town, with its sophisticated vintage flea market.

“

C

offee is an essential part of our way of life.” Allan Torp – creator of the Bungalow5 blog, a standard-setter in Scandinavian and interior design – starts his day the same way 90% of Danes do: with a cup of coffee. He hosts us in his apartment on Amager Island, southwest of central Copenhagen. A drip coffee maker and a Nespresso Expert machine share territory in his kitchen. The wallpaper bears a cup motif, a bold reflection of Allan’s well-developed taste for the beverage.

“But our culture is different from that of southern Europeans, where they prefer small, strong coffees,” he says.

“Here, we like to take our time with a large cup or mug. Or even two.” Coffee garnered widespread appeal across Europe during the 18th and 19th centuries, and was almost immediately embraced by the Scandinavians. Today, Danes are among the biggest kaffe worshippers, downing an average of just

over three cups a day. How did such a passion take hold? “The winters are long and cold, we need to warm ourselves up!” Allan says. “Holding a warm cup in your hands is the first step to hygge, that sense of well-being we conscientiously nurture here.”

A new Nordic lifestyle

Over the last fifteen years in Copenhagen, coffee has led a revolution all of its own. “As with many realms of the Danish cultural revival, coffee has really enjoyed the Noma effect,” says the influencer. He refers to Chef René Redzepi’s Michelinstarred restaurant, said to have reinvented northern cuisine, lending it international visibility and acclaim.

“Noma was ranked one of the world’s best restaurants for several years (by The World’s 50 Best Restaurants – Ed.) and established exacting standards for taste, quality and technique.” Danish coffee culture followed suit, adapting to the demands of a 21st-century lifestyle. Allan Torp cites an increasingly global perspective as another reason for the growing attention surrounding the beverage: “we’re travelling more, so

46

At Wecycle, you can buy a bike while drinking a cappuccino.

we’re naturally discovering other ways of life in cities abroad – like drinking cappuccinos or espressos. And it’s triggering major changes in our consumption patterns!” This change is reflected on the streets of Copenhagen in the proliferation of new, specialised coffee shops, some even doing their own roasting. Risteriet, for instance, opened in 2004 and has since become a must for coffee lovers, serving a wide variety of coffees, prepared in every imaginable way (Aeropress, drip, vacuum, cold brew, and more). In an old slaughterhouse converted into a veritable shrine of Copenhagen gastronomy, specialty coffee bar Prolog satisfies its demanding clientele with a carefully cultivated, handcrafted approach. The cafés have welcoming atmospheres,

urban tempo

The coffee culture has adopted the ways of the 21st-century lifestyle

Mad & Kaffe, in the heart of Vesterbro, is famous for its brunches.

The kaffepause as seen by... Allan Torp, Danish design and lifestyle expert “I still enjoy drip coffee, but I learned to love espresso while traveling abroad – it became my morning beverage.

I get up early, around 6 a.m., go down to the kitchen, have a Cosi or a Volluto, then go back upstairs to work in my office. And I make the most of having an espresso machine to take a few breaks over the course of the day.”

Allan Torp, 39, is an eagle-eyed expert on Danish design and lifestyle.

His book, Scandinavian Style at Home: A Room by Room Guide (2018) is translated into three languages (English, German and French), and tells us how and why his minimalist approach, based on simplicity and practicality, can be effectively applied to interiors worldwide. (bungalow5.com)

urban tempo

Two-in-one, vintage or waterside, these establishments hone their image with great care

Danes still prefer drip coffee with a lighter roast, but without milk, cream or sugar.

The kaffepause as seen by... Camilla Stemann Jensen, lifestyle influencer “Coffee’s my favourite beverage – I have some every day. I start my morning by quickly downing my breakfast before making a large cup of coffee, so I can enjoy it fully.

During the day, I drink two or three lattes that I make with oat milk: Nespresso machines make a lovely crema, and are very popular, incidentally, with the younger generation – they love trying out new recipes. I also like sampling various specialty coffees. To limit my caffeine intake in the evening, I make a cup of decaf.” With her blog, CopenhagenByMe, Camilla Stemann Jensen hopes to change the world.

The vivacious thirty-something gives her readers tips on living a more local and sustainable life in Copenhagen, presented amidst minimal imagery of quintessentially Scandinavian interiors and fashion, and with particular emphasis on the coffee culture thriving in her city (copenhagenbyme.com).

urban tempo

A casual atmosphere and generous servings at the Café Collective.

The cutting-edge Prolog and its coffees from around the world satisfy consumers’ increasingly specialised demands.

Copenhageners get together for coffee at all hours, even in the evenings.

near Nørreport. Others are just exotic or imaginative, like La Banchina, an authentic harbour-front shack in Refshaleøen.

Coffee geek

made more appealing still by their tempting selections of high-quality products. Each venue is marked by its own unique selling point. Mad & Kaffe is famous for its brunches; Atelier September, in the old town, stands out for its vintage style - the décor is a jumble of mismatched furniture, reminiscent of the antique store that the former owners managed. “These new baristas have plenty of great ideas on how to give their places personality,” says Sarah Bentley, an English stylist and kaffepause connoisseur. “Some have an original concept, like Wecycle, where you can get your bike repaired while having a pastry and coffee; others cultivate a vintage feel, like Kalaset

“I’m sure every Dane remembers when they tasted coffee for the first time.”

Søren Larsen, a 29-year-old maths teacher, soaks up the sun on the terrace of Original Coffee on the edge of Sortedams Sø Lake. He calls himself a “coffee geek”. “I can’t start my day without drinking a big cup of black coffee. Once I’m out and about, I like to stop at places like this, that serve great coffee and care about the quality of their product. It’s one of my everyday treats.”

The Coffee Collective was founded in Copenhagen in 2008 and now, as a business and a brand, focuses on serving delicious beverages while honouring high environmental and social standards. Wooden tables, polished concrete floors, tattooed and bearded baristas: the Godthåbsvej Street business provides a relaxed atmosphere to its customers. They read the day’s newspapers, eat scrumptious food, chat, work on their computers. “We have people coming in all day long: I’ll still be serving drip coffees after

49

6 p.m.,” says French barista Baptiste Fournier, who arrived in Copenhagen in 2015. Consumers’ demands are increasingly specialised, he tells us – they ask questions about the products’ origins, and the best ways to prepare them. Scandinavian countries are typically very open to innovations in food and drink, though the Danish preference always leans toward large cups of black coffee, without milk, cream or sugar, lightly roasted for a milder flavour. These brands are part of the coffee culture’s renaissance. “They’re now part of the soul of Copenhagen,” says Camilla Stemann Jensen, who created the CopenhagenByMe blog, where she documents her exploration of the city. “Copenhageners get together for coffee at all hours, even in the evening. And I see new habits developing, like taking your coffee to go, or drinking espresso. But some rituals remain unchanged, like the kaffepause on the banks of a lake.

Which happens to be the place favoured by lovers.” _

sustainable development

Taking “zero waste” to heart A variety of cutting-edge citizen initiatives have made this country a trailblazer in reducing food waste.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Frédéric Stucin

“

O

ur store carries a bit of everything. Olive oil, chocolate, beer, vegetables, fruit. Over here are some strawberries we recovered yesterday. Since some of the containers are damaged, the supermarket that was selling them chose to get rid of the entire batch and sell different produce that was better-looking. And instead of throwing the strawberries away, he called us and we loaded them into our van.”

Jan-Martin Mikkelsen is the manager at one of Copenhagen’s two Wefood outlets. These general (and generous) stores only sell food that was going

to be thrown away – because of poor packaging, an expired sell-by date, or because it doesn’t meet the usual standards. Wefood recovers the products, repackages them if necessary, and sells them at anywhere between 30% and 50% below the original price. “In fact,” Jan-Martin continues, “every item we sell has a story.”

Everything is of course still perfectly edible. In the early days, consumers were hesitant, unconvinced that the articles had been rejected simply because of missing labels, or because the bottles were dirty. These charitable supermarkets, created in 2016 by the Christian humanitarian

50

organisation DanChurchAid, serve a dual purpose: to sell products at lower prices and, most importantly, to combat food waste. “A third of the world’s food goes to waste,” says Birgitte Qvist-Sorensen, the charity’s General Secretary, in their premises opposite the central train station near the Tivoli gardens. “And yet, at the same time, 800 million people around the world are going hungry.” This staggering reality is what spurred Qvist-Sorensen to open these stores that are simultaneously economical, ecological and social enterprises.

“DanChurchAid’s founding mission has been to help the poor and fight

hunger across the planet. When we realised what a major factor food waste was, especially in Europe, we wanted to take action. In Denmark alone, 700,000 tonnes of food are wasted every year.” Wefood stores are regularly stocked, user-friendly, volunteer-operated and open to everyone.

The money from sales is used to pay taxes and rent, while the remaining profits are invested in DanChurchAid humanitarian missions. “Last year, we recovered 173 tonnes of food. This year, we expect to save 250 tonnes.

We opened a third store in northern Denmark in 2018 and more locations will start operations this winter.”

These general (and generous) stores only sell food that was going to be thrown away An instant hit

Within Europe, Denmark stands at the forefront of the fight against food waste. Its culture and national values make it a land conducive to a zerowaste culture, with an advanced awareness of ecological issues, an orientation toward improved sharing of resources, and notably forward-thinking urban communities. But, who exactly was responsible for getting the movement started? In 2008, Russian

51

student Selina Juul created a Facebook page intended to publicly condemn the absurdity of the senseless food waste rife across Western communities. “I grew up in Soviet Russia where the stores were very poorly stocked,” she recalls. “Back in those days, waste wasn’t an option in Moscow.

In 2008, I was studying graphic communications at the School of Media and Journalism and was looking for ideas to make the world a better

Volunteer-managed Wefood stores are open to everyone.

place. The challenge of reducing food waste was a natural pursuit for me.” Her “Stop Wasting Food” Facebook page (Stop spild af mad in Danish) was an instant success. Soon after, Denmark’s Rema 1000 discount supermarkets contacted Juul to help them find a way to cut down on their quantities of unsold goods. “We have everything to gain,” she adds. “It saves time, saves money and saves the planet.” Juul is still pursuing her mission in Denmark, but is now also working across Europe to broaden the scope of her project. During a recent TEDx presentation, she reminded her audience: “The expression ‘best if used by’ on labelling doesn’t mean ‘toxic after this date’!” Between 2010 and 2018, the people of Denmark managed to reduce their food waste by 33%, and successive governments

have continued to treat the issue as a serious priority. Most supermarkets also appear committed to the cause.

However, Danish households still throw out 260,000 tonnes of food a year. “We have a lot of work to do on consumer awareness,” Selina says.

Responding to an ecological emergency

Serkan Coskun became aware of the waste problem while working at a hotel in central Copenhagen. “The orders always far surpass demand.

Every day, at least 30% of the food goes into the trash.” To do his bit, Coskun volunteers with ‘Foodsharing’, an initiative founded in 2016 that gives away free fruit and vegetables recovered from markets and supermarkets twice each week. On this particular

52

May morning, Serkan is sorting crates of melons, asparagus, mushrooms, cucumbers, lemons, apples and bananas in a Sydhaven district community hall. “We distribute food here each Wednesday to 150 people. When I started two years ago, there weren’t as many people showing up. This whole culture of consuming unsold products is spreading.” Working alongside him is 29-year-old Roxana Gabriela Zlate, who coordinates the work performed by the organisation’s volunteers. “Foodsharing also offers ‘Disco Soups’ – free dance parties in public places that involve preparing a shared meal,” she adds. Zlate discovered the enormity of the food-waste problem when she began witnessing the effects of climate change on Denmark: warmer, drier summers and heavy rains leading to dramatic

The Too Good to Go app also plays a role in informing and forging connections.

Twice a week, Foodsharing gives away unsold fruits and vegetables.

It’s not just about selling things for less – there’s a strong desire to raise consumer awareness fl ooding. “We’re living through an ecological emergency,” she warns.

“Overproduction of waste – and not just food – contributes to the depletion of the planet’s resources. As temperatures continue to rise and the climate becomes increasingly unpredictable, statistics tell us we’ll likely have 11 billion humans on earth by the end of the 21st century. We have to get organised in new ways so we don’t compromise our future.”

On the terrace of his brand-new premises, smiling young businessman Mikkel Fog is dressed in a white shirt, bow tie and Bermuda shorts.

He is explaining the workings of the waste-minimising application he has developed, for start-up ‘Too Good to Go’. “Our app connects merchants and individuals so that unsold items can be put to good use. Customers can use their smartphones to reserve the day’s unsold items at the stores in their neighbourhoods, and then go to pick them up. For now, we’re working with 2,000 retailers in Denmark and 16,000 across Europe.” But the entrepreneur knows that an application isn’t everything. “We really want to increase awareness more quickly,” he says. “We opened a store in downtown

53

Copenhagen in 2018 to connect with and inform our customers.” We head over to Nyelandsvej Street in the Frederiksberg district, where manager Mads Christensen welcomes us warmly. “We sell foods recovered from various outlets, marking down to much lower prices, but this location is more than anything a place to talk and share knowledge. We regularly give lectures to students, for instance. Like all the stakeholders involved in this emerging circular economy, aimed at reducing food waste – and waste in general – we believe that educating the public is a priority.” _

The enchanted island of Bornholm

escape

Bornholm, less than an hour’s flight from Copenhagen, fascinates the Danes. But the rest of the world is also eager to discover its landscapes, craftsmanship and creativity.

Paradise at your fingertips.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Frédéric Stucin

Bornholm’s smokehouses are the bedrock of its fame. The fish caught in the Baltic Sea are smoked hot or cold, the old-fashioned way, using alder or beech wood from the island’s forests.

escape

F

rom afar, it could be a piece of confetti floating on the Baltic Sea. In reality, it is a lush, fertile landmass just 150 kilometres from Copenhagen. Only 40 kilometres long, dotted with the tall chimneys of traditional fish smokehouses, the island is a tapestry of plains, groves, rivers, waterfalls, lakes, white sand beaches, charming ports, winding roads and isolated farms. Its meadows – spread between villages an hour’s walk from one another – are verdant meccas for horses, sheep, thick-coated cows and, in recent years, even semifree bison. Bornholm is a picture postcard, but also so much more. This island, with a population of 40,000, is an ecological trailblazer: it produces three quarters of its energy with renewable sources (wind turbines, photovoltaic panels, small dams, a biogas plant) and is determined to become fully autonomous in electricity and heating. “We host hundreds of green classes each year,” explains Mie Mølgaard, a ceramist in Rønne, the island’s main town. “Many schoolchildren have magical memories of having been here that stay with them their entire lives.” She herself discovered the island in 2004, aged 27: “it was love at first sight.” At the time, she was teaching at a ceramics school in Kerteminde, a mid-sized city in Denmark, but she was quickly charmed by the creative energy that sets this place apart. She moved to the island and joined an existing workshop before opening her own in 2010. Ever since, her pretty pastel cups, plates, bowls, jewellery and clocks have seen growing success. “I’ve never regretted my decision,” she says.

57

Herring, salmon, cod…

Bornholm’s central location in the Baltic means it has long been coveted by the Scandinavian states.

In the 17th century, its residents made the decision to remain Danish, from which time the strategic micro-territory would be viewed as a site of exchange and trade. In the 19th century, it turned to fish smoking as its primary activity: in every village, tall smokestacks rose from the ground, used to prepare the catches brought in by the region’s fishermen. Fish – herring and salmon, cod and mackerel – were smoked and salted so they could be kept longer, and were then delivered to Copenhagen, laying the foundation for the strong relationship now forged between the island and the Danish capital. The bond was strengthened further still by the export of grains from its fertile plains, and of stones taken from its cliffs. “Back in the 1950s, the smell of smoked herring was everywhere,” says Søren Heide Jensen, owner of the Hasle smokehouse on the west coast, one of the last still in operation. “At one point, the island had as many as 135 smoking ovens.” Today, only 11 are still active. Fishing has been in steady decline since the mid-20th century, but the void has been filled by craft activities so successfully that the World Crafts Council awarded Bornholm the title of World Crafts Region in 2017. “There was a well-developed tradition of ceramists,” explains Mie Mølgaard, “as the island has clay and sandstone reserves, which were used to produce the local crockery.” Engravers, jewellers, painters, cabinetmakers and stonemasons established the groundwork for what is now the island’s specialty: superior expertise in crafts.

escape

When a ceramics and glass-blowing school opened in 1998 on the east coast in the port of Nexø, it had such spectacular results that the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts incorporated it into its own programmes just a few years later. “Glass and ceramics are two closely related trades,” says third-year student Anna Reimers Overbeck. “We work with the same material and use furnaces and kilns that reach extreme temperatures.” As the young woman shows us around the grounds of the institution that educates 60 enthusiastic students from around the world, she adds, “and Bornholm is known as a particularly exciting environment for artists and craftspeople. There’s a peaceful atmosphere here, we have time to really focus on our trade. We can take long walks for inspiration, life isn’t very expensive in winter and, in the summer season, there are tons of tourists that provide a lot of turnover for us.”

Artisanal excellence

the molten glass with which she makes her artistic lighting, carafes and jewellery. “Svaneke has been attracting artisans for about ten years. Each year, new crafts specialists settle here – we just opened a school, it’s a bustling village all year long,” confirms Susanne Kristiansen from behind the counter of her grocery store a few steps away, where she sells tea, coffee and fig jams (from fruit picked in Svaneke) amid a hodgepodge of items produced on the island.

“I’ve discovered paradise, a land of freedom and beauty. My husband and I sold our tiny, overpriced apartment in Copenhagen and were able to buy ourselves a big and beautiful house here.”

It’s nearly always the same story. The island instantly enchants visitors and they settle for good in this sanctuary at the end of the earth. In 1971, Jørgen Toft Christensen was a 19-year-old hippy and came here for a six-week vacation. “And I still live here today,” smiles the tattooed, moustached sexagenarian as he shows us around the farm

A small community on the northeast corner of the island, Svaneke was voted Denmark’s most beautiful village in 2013. It is a haven for artists. If you leave the port and walk up the maze of cobbled alleyways lined with pastel-coloured, half-timbered houses, you arrive at the studio of Pernille Bülow.

Like so many others, the glassblower developed a fondness for the island and chose to move here in 1982. “I had my four children here, have spent my entire career here, have strolled for thousands of hours along the coastal paths that nourish my work to this day – I couldn’t live anywhere else,” she says as she approaches the 1200°C furnace that yields

“Bornholm is well-known as a superb environment for artists and craftspeople – the peaceful atmosphere fosters inspiration.”

58

Mie Molgaard fell in love with the island the moment she first came here in 2004.

A few months later, she quit her job as a ceramics teacher on the mainland to settle here with her family.

“Since the 1950s, fishing and smokehouses have gradually given way to other activities, like raising livestock and green tourism�

Icium queest

1

2 3

4

1. Today, fishing boats share the waters with tourist vessels.

2. Jørgen Toft Christensen’s pork farm sells high-quality meats in its shop and even in certain charcuterie outlets on the mainland.

3. The island’s north coast is rockier and more rugged than its southern counterpart.

4. The lively, friendly village of Gudhjem to the north is a popular destination for visitors.

61

1 3

2

1. Nicolai Nørregaard, chef de Kadeau, est né et a grandi à Bornholm.

2. Cuisiner les herbes et les pousses sauvages de l’île est une des marques de fabrique du restaurant étoilé.

3. Dominant un long ruban de sable fin, l’établissement ouvre ses baies vitrées sur la mer Baltique.

escape

he has renovated. Since moving here in 1973, he’s been raising free-range pigs. Today, he supplies the best deli meats in Denmark and, at the inn he opened with his wife, serves traditional recipes of yesteryear picked up from nearby farms, as the island has been inhabited since ancient times. His daughter, who teaches literature in Copenhagen, has her principal residence here, Along with her physician husband, she commutes weekly by ferry (3½ hours) or by plane (45 minutes), a lifestyle common to an increasing number of young Copenhageners.

Microclimate

And what about the families that have lived on Bornholm for generations? Nicolai Nørregaard, 40, the chef at Kadeau (one Michelin star), is certainly the island’s best-known and most recognised inhabitant. He was born here, grew up here and his family have worked in fish smokehouses since the late

“Woodland herbs, raw and smoked fish, pork cheeks, wild onions, flowers, honey – Kadeau explores the island’s full culinary potential” 63

19th century. In 2007, without any culinary training to speak of, he decided to open a restaurant with childhood friend Rasmus Kofoed, a Danish chef and restaurateur who won the Bocuse d’Or in 2011 and is co-owner of the Geranium, a three-Michelin-star establishment in Copenhagen. Their ambition was to run the island’s best restaurant: “it wasn’t hard to do, there was nothing here of gastronomic interest”, chuckles the chef. After a single season, Kadeau began receiving glowing write-ups in the press and was generating markedly positive word of mouth reviews. “Back when we opened, Noma was the be-all and end-all of Nordic cuisine. Without going against the dogmas established by Noma’s founder, René Redzepi, I still wanted to tailor them to the Bornholm terroir. We have a specific microclimate, enjoy more sun than elsewhere in Denmark, and the soil is more fertile.” The dazzling success of his restaurant led him to open another establishment of the same name in Copenhagen in 2016, which now boasts two Michelin stars. It is 6 p.m.: the sun is caressing the restaurant’s magnificent windows that overlook the Baltic from atop a pristine dune.

Dinner will soon begin, fourteen dishes will arrive in an epicurean parade, lovingly exploiting the island’s full culinary potential – woodland herbs, raw and smoked fish, pork cheeks, dried tomatoes, cabbage, garden asparagus, wild onions, flowers, honey. The gourmet meal becomes a gastronomic rendering of the range of sensations this enchanting land can inspire, from the most refined to the most unexpected. And that is perhaps Bornholm’s secret – a subtle blend of tradition and experimentation in a truly heavenly setting. _

raw material

The metaphysics of algae With their Terroir collection made from marine algae collected on the coast, designers Jonas Edvard and Nikolaj Steenfatt have developed a new way to see indoor furniture.

An ethical and ecological revolution.

By Guillaume Jan Photos Mickael A. Bandassak

64

Icium queest

The organic lamps of the Terroir collection.

65

raw material

The seaweed is then dried and crushed into a powder.

The algae are gathered along the Copenhagen coastline.

N

ikolaj Steenfatt delicately caresses the surface beneath the water with his rake, as though combing the brown and yellow algae before gathering a mass and placing it the bucket floating close beside him. With his legs in sturdy thigh-high boots, he ventures a bit further into the cool waters of this cove north of Copenhagen, not far from the commercial port. The 32-year-old designer is collecting marine algae (also known as seaweed) for the next Terroir collection he is creating with fellow designer, 37-year-old Jonas Edvard. The latter is on the bank, explaining their approach: “Denmark has a very rich design culture and it was important for us to avoid having any negative impact on that culture

Paper, algae and plant-based glue are blended into a homogeneous paste.

by developing environmentally toxic projects, like using plastics. We all now know how much pollution that creates, especially for our oceans. We wanted to find other materials.”

A precious harvest

The two 30-somethings began collaborating in 2013 while earning their degrees at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Copenhagen – Jonas Edvard specialising in industrial design, Nikolaj Steenfatt in furniture. “We had a lot of things in common: we wanted to develop new kinds of crafts, to tell a new story by exploring the potential of a green economy. To work in circular design, avoid waste, prioritise local and sustainable. To show that we really can use alternative, ecological materials,” reports Jonas. The budding designers were quickly confronted with a major obstacle: the lack of raw materials in Denmark, a flat country without any large forests…. but with 7,000 kilometres of coastline.

66

Some serious brainstorming led them to the concept of making objects from seaweed gathered near the shores.

“We spent a year and a half performing different experiments with this substance, which is found all over the world but is used very little. We’re not scientists, we made a lot of mistakes and we got really dirty before ending up with a satisfactory result,” Jonas says, smiling, just as Nikolaj hauls his harvest onto the bank. It’s a full bucket containing seven or eight seaweed varieties, which he describes to us in detail (“these are very oily, those have a sweet taste...”). In 2015, the duo unveiled their first pieces in their Terroir collection: a chair and three lamps. “The word ‘terroir’ expresses a special relationship between a product and the place it’s made, with a focus

raw material

A lamp’s colour depends on the seaweed’s original hue and the paper used.

The resulting material is malleable, strong and recyclable.

The structures are moulded by hand, then left to air-dry and harden.

on the land or a unique know-how or heritage,” explains Nikolaj. “That’s what we wanted to do in keeping the raw material as unrefined as possible.”

Their work was an instant hit. With its unusual appearance, colour and even smell, the natural material is winning over big names in design across the globe. Museums are seeking out these genius neophytes, and the eminent Noma restaurant ordered a batch of ten lamps from the designers. Every week, the pair are bombarded with requests to reveal their secret, the trick that lets them turn seaweed into this remarkable material that is malleable, solid, 100% recyclable and even edible.

Local and non-polluting

To witness this manufacturing process that so many are eager to see, we

follow a country path leading to their workshop, set up in a jumble of sheds next to the studios of designers, artists and architects. The large room is heavily cluttered with shelves, boxes, buckets and moulds that will shape the next lamps. Amongst the disorder, we discover other creations, like their limestone luminaires made with this material that is quite common in Denmark (Noma has ten of these) and chairs in more conventional steel or wood. Jonas brings out a supply of dried seaweed and a bag filled with paper scraps, opens a notebook, jots down some calculations and begins his preparations. “The base is relatively simple – it’s a mixture of dried seaweed and paper, which makes the material both stronger and lighter,” he says. “Then we bind these two components together with our secret ingredient, a natural glue made from seaweed. This is the ingredient we had a lot of trouble getting right.”

While Jonas grinds the ingredients

67

and kneads them together, Nikolaj tells us more about how the Terroir collection was not so much developed for maximising sales, but for the impact these inventions will have on society: “we’ve only made three chairs from this – they’re on display in various museums around Europe at the moment – and a few hundred lamps. What’s most important is our revolutionary approach. We want the industry to understand that furniture and home accessories can be made from local, non-polluting materials.”

As Jonas finishes filling a mould with the mixture, he looks up and adds his conclusion: “We want to change the mind-set of producers and consumers alike. In short, we’re giving them a way to start a revolution.” _ See all their designs at jonasedvard.dk

Envivo Lungo cup, Pixie Collection (Nespresso); plates by Marion Graux and Margot Lhomme

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

coffee cuisine

Cinnamon rolls and Envivo Lungo

Makes 6 rolls.

Preparation time: 40 min.

Cooking time: 12 min. Rising time: 1 h.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Envivo Lungo (6 x 110 ml).

For the dough: 250 ml whole milk · 25 g fresh baker’s yeast · 1 egg + 1 egg yolk · 500 g plain flour · 75 g caster sugar · 5 g salt · 75 g butter.

For the filling: 100 g salted butter at room temperature · 80 g brown sugar · 15 g ground cinnamon.

Scandinavian character These sweet and savoury treats, each with its perfect coffee partner, warm the body and soul through the long winter months.

By Audrey Cosson Photos Virginie Garnier

69

· Mix all the filling ingredients in a bowl and set aside at room temperature. · In a food processor bowl, mix the milk, yeast and the whole egg. Add the flour, sugar and salt. Knead for 10 minutes until the dough is smooth and glossy. Add the diced butter and knead for 10 minutes. · Spread the dough in a rectangle shape on a floured worktop. Spread the filling onto the dough using a spatula, then, taking up a short side of the rectangle, fold the dough 1/3 of its length and close by folding the rest over on top of it (the way one folds an A4 business letter).

Roll it out again to form a square. · Cut it into strips about 2.5 cm wide.

Take a strip and twist it on itself about 6 or 7 twists. Wrap the twisted strip around your forefinger and middle finger, making 2 wraps, then tuck the end of the twisted strip into the centre of the wrapped strip. Place on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Do the same with the rest of the strips · Allow to rise for 1 hour at room temperature. Preheat oven to 220° C (200° C for fan ovens, 400° F, gas mark 6). Brush each roll with the egg yolk mixed with a little water, then bake for 12 minutes until the rolls are golden brown · Serve with an Envivo Lungo (110 ml).

Currant mini-pancakes, coffee coulis and long black Kazaar Preparation time: 30 min.

Cooking time: 15 min. Standing time: 1 h.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Kazaar (6 x 40 ml) · 6 x 160 ml hot water.

For the pancakes: 20 g fresh baker’s yeast · 400 ml whole milk · 300 g plain flour · 1 tsp. table salt · 60 g caster sugar · 1 vanilla pod · 2 eggs · 75 g melted sweet butter · 50 g fresh currants (depending on season).

For the coulis: 2 capsules of Kazaar (2 x 25 ml) · 100 ml maple syrup · 1 tsp. rum.

· Prepare 2 capsules of Kazaar as a ristretto (2 x 25 ml) for the coulis.

Pour into a saucepan with the maple syrup and bring to a boil, and boil for 10 minutes. Remove from heat and add the rum. Allow to cool. Mix the yeast and milk in a bowl. In another bowl, mix the flour, salt, sugar and seeds scraped from the vanilla pod. · Add the egg yolks to the milk/yeast mixture and beat. Add the dry contents from the other bowl and mix together. Whip the egg whites into stiff peaks and fold them into the mixture. Cover with cling film and stand for 1 hour · Heat an

aebleskiver pan (with hemispherical indentations) over medium heat, then butter the pan. Pour the batter into the indentations, filling almost to the brim.

Insert 2 or 3 currants into each. As soon as the batter unsticks from the bottom, turn the half-spheres and make them into balls by attaching two together.

Continue to cook them, turning them regularly so that they are golden over their entire surface · Serve with the coffee coulis · Serve with a Kazaar prepared as a long black (40 ml).

Pour the hot water into the cup or glass first, followed by the coffee.

Mugs, View Collection (Nespresso); small bowl by Broste Copenhagen.

70

Alcohol is harmful to your health. Please drink responsibly.

Serves 6.

coffee cuisine Pixie Lungo Cup, Festive Collection (Nespresso).

Rhubarb, buttermilk ice cream and Nordic Black lungo Serves 6.

Preparation time: 30 min.

Cooking time: 30 min.

Churning time: 1 h.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Nordic Black (6 x 110 ml).

For the ice cream: 6 egg yolks · 80 g caster sugar · 390 ml whole milk · 1 capsule of Nordic Black (1 x 110 ml) · 500 ml buttermilk. For the rhubarb: 4 rhubarb stalks · 1 vanilla pod · 100 g caster sugar. For the crumble topping: 250 g stale rye bread broken into pieces · 50 g brown sugar · 30 g molasses.

· Prepare a Nordic Black in 110 ml size, allow to cool. · In a bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until

the mixture whitens. Pour into a saucepan, add the milk and heat gently while continuing to whisk, until the mixture thickens and covers a spoon. Remove from heat, add the buttermilk and coffee, allow to cool.

Place mixture into an ice-cream maker and program to make ice cream, following the machine instructions · Preheat oven to 220° C (200° C for fan oven, 400° F, gas mark 6).

Coarsely chop the rye bread in the blender. Add the other crumble ingredients, mix and spread on a baking tray lined with baking paper.

Bake for 20 minutes. Cool on a rack · Lower the oven temperature

to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4).

Remove the leaves from the rhubarb, cut the stems into 10-centimetre pieces. Scrape the seeds out of the vanilla bean. Boil 100 ml of water with the sugar and the vanilla pod and its seeds for 10 minutes to make a syrup. · Place rhubarb in baking dish, cover with the syrup, mix and bake for 10 minutes. · Divide the rhubarb-syrup mixture into soup plates, add 1 scoop of the ice cream and sprinkle with the crumble topping · Serve with a Nordic Black (110 ml).

Alternative: Roma prepared espresso style (40 ml) for the beverage and 2 Roma (2 x 40 ml) for the ice cream.

Caramelised Coffee Bread and Barista Creations Scuro Cappuccino Serves 6.

Preparation time: 25 min. Cooking time: 12 min. Resting time: 3½ hours.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Barista Creations Scuro (6 x 25 ml) · 6 x 60 ml to 80 ml of cold milk to froth.

For the dough: 40 g fresh baker’s yeast · 1 egg · 600 g plain flour · 70 g caster sugar · 10 g salt · 50 g salted butter.

For the filling: 2 capsules of Barista Creations Scuro (2 x 25 ml) · 80 g caster sugar · 75 g rapadura (whole cane sugar) · 175 g soft salted butter · 80 g marzipan (almond paste).

· Prepare 2 Barista Creations Scuro in 25-ml size each. In a bowl, mix with the rest of the filling ingredients and set aside. · In a food processor bowl, mix 300 ml of water, the yeast and the egg. Add the flour, sugar and salt and knead for 8 minutes.

The dough should be smooth and come away easily from the sides of the bowl. Add the diced butter and knead until the dough again comes away from the sides of the bowl · Cover with cling film and rest for 1½ hours at room temperature · On a floured

Cappuccino cup, View Collection (Nespresso).

72

worktop, stretch the dough in a rectangle. Place it on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Make hollows all over the dough surface with your index finger, then spread the filling across the surface with a spatula. Rest for 2 hours at room temperature · Preheat oven to 220° C (200° C for fan oven, 400° F, gas mark 6), then bake for 12 minutes. Cool · Serve with a cappuccino made with a Barista Creations Scuro coffee (25 ml) and the frothed milk poured on top.

coffee cuisine Plate by Marion Graux.

Strawberry-rhubarb Hindbaer snitter and Fortissio Lungo Makes a dozen biscuits.

Preparation time: 40 min.

Cooking time: 40 min.

Standing time: 24 h.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Fortissio Lungo (6 x 110 ml).

For the biscuits: 1 vanilla pod · 150 g lightly salted butter at room temperature · 70 g icing sugar · 225 g plain flour · 25 g corn starch · ready-to-use white fondant icing · 200 g strawberries. For the jam: 250 g rhubarb · 250 g strawberries · 350 g jam sugar · juice of 1/2 lemon.

· Put 200 g of strawberries into a dehydrator 24 hours before preparing the recipe. The same day, peel

the rhubarb and cut it into 2 cm pieces · Hull the fresh strawberries and cut them into quarters. Place them in a casserole with the sugar, rhubarb, lemon juice and bring to a boil; boil for 5 min, skimming off the froth.

Continue cooking (5 to 10 min) over low heat until the jam has set. Cool.

Refrigerate for 1 hour · Preheat oven to 200° C (180° C for fan oven , 350° F, gas mark 4). Split the vanilla pod in half and scrape out the seeds. In a large bowl, mix the diced butter with the icing sugar. In another bowl, mix the flour, corn starch and vanilla seeds. · Incorporate the flour-vanilla mixture into the first bowl and mix to a smooth

dough. Form a ball, cover in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes · Roll out the dough (about 0.3 cm thick) on a floured baking sheet, then refrigerate the baking sheet and dough for another 30 minutes · Using a biscuit cutter, cut circles of dough and place them on a baking sheet lined with baking paper. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes · Cool on a rack · Place 1 tbsp. jam on half of the biscuit circles, then place another biscuit circle on top of each, pressing to spread the jam. Top with warmed fondant icing and dried strawberry morsels · Serve with a Fortissio Lungo (110 ml).

coffee cuisine

Crab cakes, coffee remoulade and Master Origin Indonesia served Americano style

Serves 6.

Preparation time: 30 min.

Cooking time: 25 min. Let sit: 1 h.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Master Origin Indonesia (6 x 25 ml) · 6 x 125 ml hot water.

Pour the crab cakes: 500 g crab meat taken from about 1 kg of cooked crab claws · 1 garlic clove · 1 spring onion · 2 eggs · 1 tsp. organic lemon peel · 1 tbsp. chopped tarragon · 4 tbsp. chopped dill + a small amount for garnish · 2 tbsp. chopped capers · 3 tbsp. flour · 30 g bread crumbs · cooking oil · salt, fresh-ground pepper. For the remoulade: 1 bunch chopped tarragon leaves · 2 shallots · 1 bunch chopped chives · 2 tbsp. capers · 6 gherkins · 8 tbsp. homemade mayonnaise · 1 tsp. mustard · 2 tbsp. thick crème fraîche · 2 tbsp. lemon juice · 1 tbsp. honey · 2 tsp. curry · 1 capsule of Master Origin Indonesia (1 x 40 ml) · fleur de sel, fresh-ground pepper. For the toast: 6 thin slices of rye bread · olive oil.

Mug, View Collection (Nespresso).

· Prepare a Master Origin Indonesia espresso (40 ml) · Chop the shallots, capers and gherkins and place in a large bowl. Add the coffee and other remoulade ingredients, mix, season and refrigerate · Crumble the crab meat. Peel and chop the spring onion. Place all crab cake ingredients (except frying oil) in a bowl. Mix. Shape into small balls, then refrigerate for 1 hour · Preheat oven to 180° C (350° F, gas mark 4). Brush the bread slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a baking sheet lined with baking paper, place another sheet of baking paper on top of them, then place a second baking tray onto the upper baking paper sheet to better flatten and crisp the bread slices. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes. Cool. · Heat the cooking oil to 180° C (350° F) and fry the crab cakes until golden brown.

Place them on paper towels to absorb excess oil and sprinkle with fleur de sel. · Place a small quantity of remoulade in 6 separate bowls, put the crab cakes on top, garnish with a toast slice, sprinkle with dill · Serve with an Americano prepared with a Master Origin Indonesia (25 ml). Prepare the coffee and then pour in the hot water.

hygge spirit

The warmth of winter A forest of flickering candles. Atmospheric accessories. Delectable drinks. Nespresso invites you to immerse your year-end celebrations in the comforting warmth of Danish living.

Photos JĂŠrĂ´me Galland Set Design Sandrine Place

By Nadia Hamam-Marty

From left to right: Nordic Cloudberry Flavoured Variations coffee espressostyle in a Pixie Espresso cup, Festive.

The Almond Cake Inspired recipe made with a Nordic Almond Cake Flavoured Variations in a View Recipe glass.

The Blueberry Lungo recipe made with a Nordic Black in a Pixie Lungo cup, Festive. (Recipes page 82.)

76

THESE LIMITED-EDITION COFFEES AND THESE ACCESSORIES MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE IN YOUR COUNTRY

Grey sweater by Éric Bompard

Pixie Espresso cups set, Festive, and Pixie Lungo cups set, Festive.

Nordic Cloudberry Flavored Variations, Nordic Almond Cake Variations and Nordic Black coffee sleeves.

The View Cube capsule dispenser in its ready-to-give Festive box.

Creatista Plus machine.

Pixie Lungo cup, Festive.

View Cube capsule dispenser, Festive. Nordic Cloudberry Flavoured Variations, Nordic Almond Cake Variations and Nordic Black capsules.

hygge spirit

Turn the lights down to a gentle glow. Turn your attention to the present moment. Savour a good cup of cof-

Grey sweater by Éric Bompard

fee and a slice of home-made cake. Without even knowing it, you instinctively practice hygge (pronounced “hyoo-guh”), the art of relaxing and pampering yourself in a private, cosy place, whether you’re with family and friends or just taking some time for yourself. It is one of Denmark’s cultural hallmarks, and their Scandinavian neighbours have adopted – and adapted – the concept in their own way. Winters are harsh in this northern climate, leaving people no choice but to turn their homes into welcoming retreats in which to warm themselves around a soul-soothing coffee. This season, Nespresso is embracing the hygge way of life with three limited-edition coffees perfect for the holiday season, celebrating the Nordic coffee culture, and including two new novelty flavours.

This season, Nespresso is embracing this way of life with three limited-edition coffees that are perfect for the holiday season. Two of them are flavoured and all celebrate the Nordic coffee culture.

Nordic Cloudberry Flavoured Variations is full and fruity, with a flavour inspired by a small berry of a rich golden-yellow colour that is found on the tundra. Nordic Almond Cake Flavoured Variations captures the taste and texture of the classic pastry known as kvæfjordkake (pictured left). This delectable creation, which Norwegians consider the best cake in the world, has alternating layers of sponge cake, meringue, almond and vanilla-tinged cream.

Lastly, Nordic Black pays homage to black coffee the way the Scandinavians drink it: fruity, long (in 150 ml), light-bodied, of medium intensity. For soothing sips of pure comfort.

Whether enjoyed straight or with milk, these three

Medium-sized cobalt blue Travel Mug (400 ml).

exquisite creations are truly an ode to hygge. Their capsules and sleeves are embellished with delicate decorations by designer Louise Campbell (page 26), the pattern’s curves echoing the topography of the northern territories, and the colours reflecting the golden hues of the Scandinavian pastries that inspired the aromas. In honour of the festive season, the artist also dreamed up a new look for Nespresso’s existing accessories. The Pixie cups are now available in two-tone pastels, and the limited-edition View Cube dispenser has two mirrored sides to reflect the curves of the capsules within, found also on its ready-to-give box. There’s also a new travel mug, now with an intuitive, updated design. It is now part of the permanent range and available in cobalt blue (medium, 400 ml) or lichen green (small, 300 ml).

From left to right: The Hazelnut Latte recipe in a View Cappuccino cup.

Nordic Cloudberry Flavoured Variations coffee prepared as an espresso in a Pixie Espresso cup, Festive. The Almond Cake Inspired Recipe in a View Recipe glass.

The Lungo Blueberry recipe in a Pixie Lungo cup, Festive.

Cocooning recipes

Almond Cake Inspired • Pour 100 ml semi-skimmed milk and 10 ml vanilla syrup into your Barista • Close the lid, select the “Latte Macchiato” recipe and press the “Start” button • Place the vanilla mousse in a View Recipe glass • On top of the mousse, extract a 40 ml serving of a Nordic Almond Cake Flavoured Variations coffee capsule. • Garnish with a pinch of slivered almonds (40 g).

Blueberry Lungo • Place a teaspoon of blueberry jam (5 g) in a Pixie Lungo cup, Festive.

• Extract a Nordic Black capsule (110 ml) on top of the jam. > You’ll find photos and videos showing more recipes at www.nespresso.com/recipes

Grey sweater by Éric Bompard

Latte Hazelnut • Pour 100 ml semi-skimmed milk and 5 ml hazelnut syrup into your Barista. • Close the lid, select the “Flat White” recipe and press the “Start” button. • Extract a Nordic Black espresso into a View Cappuccino cup. • Top with 40 ml of silky mousse prepared by the Barista • Sprinkle with ground nutmeg before serving.

iconic

Coffee Celebrities Certain coffees become your favourites over time. Their characteristics and personalities tickle your palate and become part of your day-to-day rituals. This year, Nespresso rolls out the red carpet for the blends voted into the top five in the permanent range.

Photos Caspar Miskin Set design Caroline Nedelec

By Nadia Hamam-Marty

84

Tivoli by Normann Copenhagen fragrance diffuser at Fleux – Dark chocolate-tonka Êclair by Yann Couvreur

Musical harmony.

The balanced and flavoursome Volluto rewards instantly with its mild, biscuity notes.

At home or at work, this one is always by your side. You would know those delicate, fruity nuances with your eyes closed.

It can melt your heart and excite your taste buds with its dancing Brazilian and Colombian Arabicas.

Octaphilosophie, Phaidon publishers – Parker pen – Diamaster Thinline watch by Rado

The taste of mystery.

Power, contrast, depth – Ristretto makes its presence known.

It is among Nespresso’s most intense coffees, with a bold temperament. It gets straight to the point,, with its fruity slightly tart base notes that disconcert the taste buds, coupled with an irresistible texture.

Causse leather gloves - Swarovski necklace

Royal velvet.

With its dense body and aromatic opulence, Arpeggio has it all. Its flavour is the favourite of those who appreciate beautiful things and precious materials. Crafted with meticulous attention to detail, its creamy bouquet of roasted and cocoa notes embody its very nature: a discreet treasure that wins over the discerning heart.

Fujifilm X100S compact camera - Ettinger passport case and flask

Seafaring adventure.

Sip a Fortissio Lungo and your traveling instincts are instantly awakened.

At first, it is a coffee with a spicy personality seeking distant horizons. Exposed to the monsoon winds after harvesting, the Indian Monsooned Malabar Arabica stands up to the storms, crossing oceans and continents to reach you.

Rich and full-bodied, yet softened by cereal notes, it recounts this intense odyssey in a cup.

Hay glass box

Palate diplomacy.

You and Livanto have nourished a relationship based on trust. Warm, consistent, elegant – this blend, the epitome of balance, is the product of superb harmonies. Its malted cereal and caramel notes blend in a sumptuous golden light; its fruity twist is the height of indulgence, where each flavour has its place.

Its grace rises and envelops you. A fellow traveller, always there at just the right time.

cooking lesson

Hotdogs, coffee barbecue sauce and Master Origin India served Americano style Mug, View Collection (Nespresso).

The classic Danish snack is given a new twist with coffee barbecue sauce.

Deliciously unexpected.

By Audrey Cosson Photos Virginie Garnier

Serves 6.

Preparation time: 30 min.

Cooking time: 40 min.

Rising time: 30 min.

For the beverage: 6 capsules of Master Origin India (6 x 25 ml) · 6 x 125 ml hot water. For the buns: 15 g fresh baker’s yeast · 1 egg + 1 yolk for an egg wash to give buns shine · 500 g plain flour · 45 g caster sugar · 5 g salt · 40 g salted butter. For the barbecue sauce: 1 onion · 2 garlic cloves · 400 g canned tomato pulp · 1 tsp. mustard · 1 tsp. salt · 3 tbsp. smoked paprika · 60 g brown sugar · 1 Master Origin India capsule (1 x 40 ml) · 60 g maple syrup · 2 tbsp. olive oil.

For the hot dogs and toppings: 6 pork sausages · 2 cucumbers · 250 ml cider vinegar · 125 g caster sugar · salt, fresh ground pepper · 4 tbsp. capers in vinegar (drained and dried) · frying oil.

· Pour 250 ml cold water and the yeast into the bowl of a food mixer and mix.

Add the egg and mix again. Add the flour, sugar and salt and knead for 8 min. The dough should be smooth and shiny and come off easily

from the dough hook. Add the butter and knead until the dough no longer sticks to the sides of the bowl. Cover with cling film and leave to rise for 20 minutes at room temperature. · Divide the dough into 12 equally sized pieces and shape each into a small oval loaf. Space them carefully on a baking sheet covered with baking paper. Leave to double in size (10 minutes). · Preheat oven to 200° C (180° C for fan ovens, 350° F, gas mark 4). Brush the buns with the beaten egg wash and bake for 14 minutes · For the sauce, prepare a Master Origin India as an espresso (40 ml). Peel and chop the onion.

Chop the garlic. In a pan, sweat the onion in olive oil. Add the garlic, fry for 2 minutes and add the coffee and other ingredients. Reduce heat

and let it simmer for 20 minutes.

Correct the seasoning, then mix thoroughly. Set the sauce aside · In a bowl, mix the vinegar, 3.5 tbsp. water, sugar and salt.

Slice the cucumbers very thinly and place slices in a bowl with the vinegar mixture. Marinate for 30 minutes. · Brown the sausages in a pan. · Dip the capers in the frying oil heated to 180° C (350° F), then place on a sheet of absorbent paper · Slice open the buns. Brush the insides with the coffee barbecue sauce, insert a sausage, add the drained cucumbers and capers, salt, pepper and serve piping hot · Serve with an Americano made with a Master Origin India (25 ml).

Prepare the coffee and then add the hot water.

Caution: The featured recipes may contain different allergens. Should you have any allergy or intolerance, you are responsible for modifying the ingredients as necessary.

90

NEW YORK RESET, LAUREATO STYLE.

LAUREATO ABSOLUTE CHRONOGRAPH — TITANIUM CASE / 44 MM

—

81060-21-491-FH6A / CHF 12 900.– LAUREATO COLLECTION STARTING AT CHF 9 900.-

RADO.COM

MASTER OF MATERIALS

RADO CAPTAIN COOK INSPIRED BY OUR VINTAGE ORIGINAL. SERIOUSLY IRRESISTIBLE.