Dining SPOTLIGHT
American
Guidelines
abigailE A venture of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Steak & Whisky, Día de Campo), this funky, graffitimuraled American brasserie with rooftop bar is lots of fun. Chef Tin Vuong presents escargot “poppers,” lambbelly poutine and a serious burger, washed down with house-brewed beer. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1301 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.798.8227 $$ Map L13
Index
ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate-crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13
Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.
American..............................60 Japanese................................65 Brewpubs/Gastropubs....62 Mediterranean....................66 British/Irish..........................62 Mexican/Latin....................66 California...............................62 Pan-Asian..............................66 Chinese..................................63 Seafood.................................. 67 Eclectic/Fusion...................63 Spanish.................................. 67 French.....................................63 Steak.......................................68 Italian......................................63 Thai..........................................69
Noodle Around Miyamoto Musashi is a legendary samurai, but even his twin blades couldn’t achieve the precision of Musashiya, a new udon restaurant from Justice Foods USA that honors his name in Westwood Village. Musashiya runs housemade dough through a machine up to a dozen times, until the noodles’ thickness registers 3 millimeters. Springy noodles are available either cold and coiled or bobbing in hot water. Choose from three different dipping broths: rich miso sprinkled with sesame, simmered beef with thin-sliced meat, and spicy soy milk with ground pork. Classic udon preparations are also available, as are carbonara with bacon and soft-boiled egg, tempura-fried items and filled hug (hand) rolls. Really, though, it’s all about udon. L, D (M-Sa). 1049 Gayley Ave., L.A., 310.208.5999 $ Map J9 —J.L.
butchers & barbers Local bar-masters the Houston brothers present this lively American bistro. A charcuterie board and roasted garlic-rosemary popcorn can be shared before moving on to an 18-ounce bone-in pork chop with plum-pine-nut gremolata. Creative artisanal cocktails and a vintage setting—Charlie Chaplin once lived in the building—enhance the experience. D (Tu-Su). 6531 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.1464 $$ Map H14 THe church key With off-menu items rolled table to table, this trendy spot has adopted the charm and spontaneity of dim sum. Signature dishes include the tapiocacrusted tai snapper. Mixologists dressed as Pan Am flight attendants steer airline food carts loaded with liquid-nitro cocktails. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 8730 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.249.3700 $$ Map H12 claim jumper Saloon-style eatery features grill fare and its own label of craft beer. L (varies by location), D (nightly); Br (varies by location). 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505; 820 W. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, 626.359.0463; 9429 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.718.2882; 25740 The Old Road, Valencia, 661.254.2628; 6501 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, 562.431.1321 $ Map T22, Q23, north of A1, D4 Clifton’s This kitschy downtown cafeteria, which dates back to the 1930s, recently reopened after a multimilliondollar renovation. The huge, multiple-story eatery offers old-school cuisine like a roast-meat carving station and Jell-O for dessert, as well as a craft-beer bar, all with woodland ambiance. Check website for new offerings and extended hours. L, D (daily). 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673, cliftonsla.com $$ Map I16 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary-American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 freds at barneys Inside Beverly Hills retail destination Barneys New York, the first West Coast outpost of the retailer’s signature restaurant is a go-to for brunch, power lunches, shopping breaks and happy hour. Try the robiolawith-truffle-oil pizza. L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9570 Wilshire Blvd., fifth floor, Beverly Hills, 310.777.5877 $$$ Map J11 Independence This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, which connected downtown L.A.
with what is now the Santa Monica Pier back in 1875. The restaurant’s casual setting belies its refined New American cuisine that includes a kale chopped salad and orecchiette tuna confit. L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 ink. Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio showcases daring molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Try a five-course tasting menu or explore à la carte items including smoked trout with radish and roe. D (nightly). 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 Joan’s on Third Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street, as well as a new location in the Valley, offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 LEDLOW Chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston) has transformed Pete’s Café into Ledlow, a place with vintage good looks. The versatile chef offers twists on classic bistro dishes, American favorites and diverse cultural staples (think brioche French toast and chicken schnitzel). B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I17 m.b. post Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. The “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans and Brussels sprouts look tantalizing. L (F-Su), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 Odys + Penelope Churrasco and grill features a live-fire grill and wood-fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. Vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree options also available. D (nightly). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 Ox & Son Farm-to-table restaurant and wine bar (now offering cocktails) is a fitting addition to charming Montana Avenue. Creative comfort-food menu includes items like mushroom parmesan cavatelli, plus glutenfree options. Br, L, D (daily). 1534 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.829.3990 $$$ Map K8 Plan Check Kitchen + Bar A growing minichain from chef Ernesto Uchimura. Contemporary takes on American classics are complemented with craft beers and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather. L, D (daily). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616 $$ Map K9, I12, H16
During the Great Depression, Clifton’s iconic downtown cafeteria was known for never turning away hungry diners who couldn’t pay for their meals. See listing above.
joshua lurie
BIRCH Cahuenga Corridor spot from chef Brendan Collins (Waterloo & City) serves a seasonally driven menu (the rabbit baklava with dates, white beans, pistachio and carrots is a standout) served in a whitewashed, clean-lined space. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 1634 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.960.3369 $$$ Map H13
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