A Hybrid Horizon Two takes on the future of fashion.
SPRING/SUMMER 2022
The Reggaeton Revolution Why fashion loves these Spanish-language stars.
Swoosh Appeal How Nike stays so popular and yet so cool.
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MARIA CHAMMAS SMULOOK@SMU.EDU MAGAZINE MANAGING EDITOR KATIE ABRAMS ASSISTANT EDITOR MADDIE CRISP WRITERS SOKSAN TENG CONSULTING EDITOR LONI NUNZIATA ART & DESIGN ART DIRECTOR OLIVIA PORSCH ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR CAROLINE SOJA ART TEAM GRACE PEEK, MAUD HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHERS RENEE EISENMANN, HALEY REED, ELLA MCDONALD FASHION CREATIVE DIRECTOR LILLY JACH ASSISTANT CREATIVE DIRECTOR BENNETT HILL FASHION EDITOR ALEX KAPELINA MODEL COORDINATOR SINCLAIR JELLEME PRODUCTION COORDINATOR MICHAELA MCTEE FASHION ASSISTANT CHRISSY NELLI DIGITAL DIGITAL EDITOR CAROLYN HAMMOND ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITORS MARY THOMPSON CHARLEBOIS, BELLA PINERA WRITERS PRINCESS MATTHEW, FERNANDA GONZALEZ, LUCY LADIS, IVY NIELSEN, LIZZIE SEXTON, SHAE WALKER, LINDSAY RORSCHACH
2 • SMU LOOK
MARKETING MARKETING DIRECTOR MORGAN GRUWELL ASSISTANT MARKETING DIRECTOR CLEMENTINE MARCOGLIESE MARKETING TEAM CATHERINE COOK, KATHARYN MITCHELL, ISABELLE SEARLES, JACQUELINE POTWORA EVENT COORDINATORS ANGELINA CHOUCAIR, MORGAN PERRY SOCIAL MEDIA SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR SOPHIE MCGUIRE INSTAGRAM DIRECTOR GILLIAN WILLIAMS INSTAGRAM ASSISTANT DIRECTORS CHARLOTTE KOLMAN, ISABEL MEADOWS, ATENAS VIJIL TIKTOK DIRECTOR GINA MARIE CAMPAGNA YOUTUBE DIRECTOR SUTTON SOINSKI VIDEO CONTENT CREATORS ALEXA FIELD, KAITLYN SCIARRINO, CHLOE GRACE CRISSMAN, OLIVIA ATHERTON FACULTY ADVISOR JENNY B. DAVIS JENNYD@SMU.EDU ADVISING EDITORS ETHAN LASCITY, KAREN THOMAS, JAYNE SUHLER EDITORIAL SUPPORT CANDACE BARNHILL, LISA GOODSON EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR TONY PEDERSON
VOLUME 6 ISSUE 1
CONTENTS
DEPARTMENTS FEATURES LOOKING OUT
06 08 40
COOKING WITH CHLOE by Chloe Grace Crissman TAKE A BITE by Maria Chammas MUST KNOW MUSTANGS by Soksan Teng
QUICK LOOKS
14 17
SHINE BRIGHT by Katie Abrams, Maddie Crisp and Soksan Teng CASH AND CARRY by Lila Bertsch
GET THE LOOK
10 11 12
BIG IS BEST by Maria Chammas STEP UP by Maddie Crisp FULL-ON FEATHERS by Katie Abrams
18
25 28 30 36
HAUTE HOTEL Stay and play in shimmering sequins and structured silhouettes. A HYBRID HORIZON by Hailey Rednour and Carey McKellar Two takes on technology and the future of fashion THE REGGAETON REVOLUTION by Marian Rowley Fashion’s biggest brands are singing the praises of the Spanishlanguage DRIVING STYLE Candy colors and miles of denim drive spring’s most important looks.
ON THE COVER Model: Hannah Hohman Makeup: Olivia Atherton Photography: Ethan Rios For more images from this fashion shoot, see page 30.
SWOOSH APPEAL by Victoria Cruz Nike is the most popular sneaker brand in the world. So how does this common kick stay so cool?
FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS VICTORIA CRUZ
GUEST WRITER
YEAR: SENIOR MAJOR: MARKETING AND FASHION MEDIA HAPPY PLACE: ON THE BEACH
MARIAN ROWLEY
ETHAN RIOS
GUEST WRITER
GUEST PHOTOGRAPHER
YEAR: JUNIOR MAJOR: MARKETING AND FASHION MEDIA HAPPY PLACE: BY THE OCEAN
YEAR: SENIOR MAJOR: CREATIVE ADVERTISING HAPPY PLACE: MY FAVORITE COFFEE SHOP SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 3
Leading change through better healthcare design. 2801 Woodside St. Dallas, TX 75204 info@averify.com
4 • SMU LOOK
LETTER A United Front FROM THE EDITOR. by Maria Chammas
Fashion has always served as a source of strength for me.
I
first made the connection between outfits and empowerment when I was six years old. My mom loved dressing me in candy-colored Juicy Couture sets, and I can still remember how confident I felt strutting around in head-to-toe velour. Fashion is power, and while I have always known that on a personal level, I now understand it in an academic context, too, as a fashion media and journalism major. Of course, fashion is a business that extends around the globe and even into the metaverse. But I believe fashion also can be a powerful force for connection, providing purpose and enabling artistic expression. And it’s a perfect way to explain the theme of this issue: Unity. As the world begins to emerge from a global pandemic while also grappling with unforeseen challenges and even an unjust war, unity is more important than ever.
Fashion isn’t the only thing that brings people together, and this issue focuses on other unifying elements like food (Cooking with Chloe), hospitality (Take a Bite), music (The Reggaeton Revolution) and shopping (A Hybrid Horizon). I hope this issue also celebrates the unity of the SMU Look staff. The cooperation of this multitalented team of students — that now numbers nearly 50 — has been integral to achieving our shared goal of putting out a magazine while also creating original content for a blog and three social media accounts (Instagram, TikTok and YouTube). We’ve had our struggles for sure, but when we do, I always take a moment to remind everyone why we’re here, and how we’re all united by a love of fashion and the common goal (which also serves as our mission statement) of celebrating and sharing SMU’s diverse style.
photography: Ella McDonald SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 5
COOKING WITH CHLOE
After rediscovering my love of cooking during quarantine, I decided to share my easy, affordable culinary strategies on social media. by Chloe Grace Crissman photography: Ella McDonald
C
ooking is an expression of love in my family. As my mother and grandmother taught me, whether it’s baking cookies for a sick friend or preparing dinner for parents who are too busy to make their own meals, food is how we express our feelings and support each other. During the first quarantine period of the COVID-19 pandemic, I discovered that cooking also was a wonderful way to relieve stress. I had only been at school for seven months when the world locked down, and like everyone, I was anxious and concerned. I remembered how I felt in my kitchen back home, and I wondered if it was possible to recreate those feelings of warmth and comfort by cooking some of my grandmother’s recipes in the small, shared kitchen of my sorority house. It worked. Across the remaining months of the school year, I cooked my way through the majority of my grandmother’s recipe book, and it brought me peace during those uncertain times.
Check out all of the “Cooking with Chloe” videos at @smulook. This year, I have my own apartment with my own bright, expansive kitchen. I’ve used this opportunity to experiment with turning classic recipes into 6 • SMU LOOK
affordable, easy dinners and desserts for my friends. For the past two years, I’ve been a member of the SMU Look digital team, and this semester, I decided to use this platform to share my love of cooking and the dishes I’ve been developing by posting a series of instructional videos on Instagram called “Cooking with Chloe.” I hope that they can convey to anyone watching that cooking doesn’t have to be difficult. And who knows - maybe other students will realize that cooking is their love language, too.
Entrée
Tomato Butter Pappardelle Inspired by @kim.thefoodie
Dessert
Cinnamon Sugar Pretzel Rolls
Adapted from Sally’s Baking Addiction by Sally McKenney
serving size: 2 - 3 people
serving size: 12 rolls
Ingredients
Ingredients
6 tablespoons butter, divided 2 cloves chopped garlic 1 pound cherry tomatoes 1 teaspoon oregano 1 teaspoon basil 1 teaspoon thyme 1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper 1 tablespoon honey ¼ cup pasta water Grated Parmesan cheese for serving One box pappardelle pasta
serving size: 2-3 people
CHLOE TIP: Adding the pasta to the sauce (instead of the other way around) allows the starch that remains on the pasta to further thicken the sauce as it’s being served.
Instructions 1. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan on medium-low heat. 2. Add garlic and cook until fragrant. 3. Add cherry tomatoes and seasonings. 4. Turn up heat to medium to allow the flavors to blend together and let simmer until the sauce thickens (about 5 minutes). 5. Fill a large pot about halfway with water. Heavily salt the water and bring to a boil (about 10-15 minutes). 6. When water is boiling, add pasta and cook until al dente (about 5-7 minutes). 7. While the pasta cooks, turn heat down to low on the sauce and allow it to simmer for as long as desired. The longer the sauce simmers, the stronger the flavors wilbecome. (I recommend 15-20 minutes.) 8. Add remaining 5 tablespoons of butter and honey to the sauce. 9. After pasta is finished, save ¼ cup of pasta water from the pot and drain the rest of the water from the pasta with a strainer. 10. Add pasta water to sauce and let simmer for 3 more minutes to allow sauce to thicken. 11. Add cooked pasta to sauce. 12. Sprinkle as much grated parmesan as desired.
Rolls: ½ cup warm water 2 ¼ teaspoons active dry yeast 3 tablespoons unsalted butter divided 1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon brown sugar 3 ¾ cup all-purpose flour
Baking Soda Bath: ½ cup baking soda 9 cups water. Cooking with Chloe’s Special Cinnamon Sugar Coating: 2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons white sugar Cinnamon to taste
CHLOE TIP: Using a flaky-style salt to top your pretzel rolls will give them a more authentic look. For my special cinnamon sugar coating, I suggest using at least 2 tablespoons of cinnamon. I always use more, but feel free to experiment to find out the amount that tastes best to you.
Instructions 1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. 2. Whisk water and yeast together and set aside for 1 minute. 3. Melt butter. 4. Whisk salt, brown sugar and 1 tablespoon of the melted
butter into the water and yeast mixture. 5. Slowly add in flour one cup at a time, whisking mixture until smooth between each cup. 6. Continue mixing dough until it forms a large ball. 7. Cover with a thin cloth and set aside for 40-60 minutes to rise. 8. Once risen, roll your dough into small balls. 9. Prep a baking pan with either a vegetable oil cooking spray like Pam or by placing a sheet of parchment paper on it. Fill the tray with dough balls. 10. To create the baking soda bath, fill a medium-sized pot with 9 cups water and baking soda and bring to a boil (about 5 minutes). 11. Drop dough balls one by one into the boiling baking soda bath, adding them carefully to prevent splashing. 12. Cook each for 10-20 seconds, then remove carefully using tongs or a spider strainer. 13. Place cooked dough balls on the tray and when they are all cooked, coat with remaining tablespoons of melted butter and sprinkle with salt. 14. Bake for 15-20 minutes until golden brown. 15. While rolls are cooling, begin the cinnamon sugar coating by melting 2 tablespoons of butter. 16. Add sugar and cinnamon to the melted butter and mix together. 17. Brush mixture across the top of the warm rolls.
Check the smulook blog and social media for a mocktail recipe, how-tos and more. SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 7
Sadelle’s
As sad as it was to see SMU-favorite Royal Blue Grocery close last year, you won’t be disappointed by its worthy replacement: A New York City-based casual eatery beloved for its brunch and especially its bagels. Named for co-owner Mike Zalaznick’s great grandmother, Sadelle’s comes to Dallas following its successful expansion to Las Vegas, Miami, Boca Raton, Florida, and Paris, France. The menu, served all day, truly has something for everyone, from New York favorites like smoked salmon and matzo ball soup to Texas favorites like quesadillas and breakfast tacos. 1 Highland Park Village, Dallas 469-290-6009, www.sadelles.com
Paloma Suerte
Need a break from Big D? Head to Fort Worth for the weekend and check out Paloma Suerte, the latest restaurant from the city’s resident celebrity chef, Tim Love. Paloma Suerte means Lucky Dove in Spanish, a nod to Lonesome Dove, the restaurant that put Love on the culinary map back in 2000. The menu is TexMex, but the location — in the historic Stockyards’ Mule Alley — is pure Tex. Be sure to look up when you walk in to see the deconstructed piñata installation hanging from the ceiling. 122 E. Exchange Street, Suite 280, Fort Worth 682-267-0414, www.palomasuertefw.com
TAKE A
BITE
These recently opened restaurants are LOOK approved. by Maria Chammas
Teak Tearoom
Tucked inside The Conservatory on Two, a chic boutique in Highland Park Village, the Teak Tearoom is an open, light-filled space dedicated to lovely lunches. The menu boasts healthy, light fare like quiches, sandwiches, avocado toast and even a special salad, the Brian Bowl, named for Brian Bolke, the Dallas retail innovator behind this special spot. The Teak Tearoom is perfect for an elegant afternoon bite during Family Weekend or any time mom’s in town – just be sure to secure a table early, as there are only 11. 100 Highland Park Village, Suite 205, Dallas 972-863-8590, www.theconservatorynyc.com
8 • SMU LOOK
SMU DISCOUNT
SMU S T UDE N T S R EC E I V E 15 % OF F W I T H VA L ID ID (DINE-IN /C A RR YOU T ONLY )
O P E N 1 1 A M F R I , S AT, S U N . B RU N C H AVA I L A B L E S AT & S U N 11 A M -3 P M / $ 3 M I M O S A S . SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 9
O N L I N E D E L I V E R Y AVA I L A B L E AT W W W. O L I V E L L A S . C O M
FASHION IN FOCUS
Sharpen your style with this trio of trends.
BIG IS BEST Bottega Veneta, $4,500, neimanmarcus.com
Everybody knows that big is always better: big parties, big birthday cakes, big diamonds — the list goes on and on, especially when it comes to fashion this season. The bulkier the bag and blazer, the trendier the outfit. Just ask Hailey Bieber; oversized is practically this model-off-duty’s brand, and she sets the style standard for any student-on-duty. For a chic lunch date look, style the biggest blazer you can find over some baggy jeans and a bandeau. A large bag is not just a stylistic choice, but it’s also a practical one: It can hold anything you might need during your busy day. The oversized look can carry you into a night out, too. Put on a sexy slip dress, throw that blazer over your shoulders and you’re ready to go! - Maria Chammas
10 • SMU LOOK
Model: Princess Matthew Photography: Ella McDonald
STEP UP Plain white sneakers are so … plain. Kick those kicks into trend mode by embracing a sporty, tomboy-style tennis shoe done up in color-blocked brights. It’s a totally tubular return to the ‘80s, and the era of teased hair and synthpop is back for the long haul –– from the ankles down, at least.
And it’s not just the mainstream brands like Nike and Reebok rocking this vintage vibe. Now, fashion brands like Prada and Off-White are in the game, too, splashing color and rocking retro styles. That means these new sneakers are accessible to sneaker lovers at a variety of price points, appealing to barganistas and fashionistas alike. Channel your inner Punky Brewster and show off your spunky take on an era that can never be forgotten. - Maddie Crisp
Hogan, $399, farfetch.com
Off-White, $570, neimanmarcus.com
Chiara Ferragni, $272, farfetch.com
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 11
FASHION IN FOCUS
FULL-ON FEATHERS
Out with the fringe, in with the feathers! Forget the cowboy look –– the ultra-glamorous, feminine accent of feathers is taking over the fashion scene. Channel your inner Great Gatsby party-goer and go full Jazz Age in full feather flourish or just go for a light whirl of whimsy with a feathered accent on something more simple. Feather accents aren’t a fly-by-night trend – in 2017, Prada dazzled viewers with its feathered finale, and Cynthia Rowley showed them this year. The change? Feathers for day. And we are here for it. Whether it’s on shoes, blazers or denim jackets, this welcomed, whimsical trend will make you feel exceedingly glamorous. - Katie Abrams
Dolce & Gabbana, $1,145, modaoperandi.com
Sleeper, $320, net-a-porter.com
Loeffler Randall, $350, saksfifthavenue.com 12 • SMU LOOK
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 13
Shine BRIGHT Wanna be a glow-getter?
1
Invigorate and radiate with these inspired skincare finds.
Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, $56, nordstrom.com
2
U Beauty, $168, ubeauty.com
3 Chantecaille, $74, chantecaille.com
14 • SMU LOOK
12 3
Plump & Protect
Hands-On Clean
Bobbi Brown’s Extra Cleansing Balm is a hands-on way to remove dirt and makeup from your face. It also conditions the skin with a paraben-free, sulfite-free combination of olive oil, fruit oil and more. With dry hands, simply apply the cream in a circular motion and feel the day’s impurities melt away. And because the balm is infused with orange oil, it not only feels amazing on the skin, but its aroma will send you into a citrusy bliss. - Soksan Teng
U Beauty redefines hydration with its Super Hydrator skin cream. This multitasking moisturizer is powered by a proprietary, patent-pending formulation called “HydraSiren,” designed to reach skin’s deepest layers, and is packed with five different types of hyaluronic acids to help skin hold moisture longer. Plus, it’s hypoallergenic, cruelty-free and safe for all skin types. Whether you seek the heat this summer or choose the cool of the mountains, your skin will be plumped and protected. - Maddie Crisp
From Africa, With Love
Look good, feel good, give back! Chantecaille’s new Spring 2022 collection is inspired by the elegance of the giraffe and the neutral hues of Africa’s majestic landscape. The Giraffe Eye Quartet features four flattering shades, all with endless possibilities. Not only can you create an array of looks, but you can do it while also supporting a great cause: Proceeds benefit the Giraffe Conservation Foundation and its work to protect giraffes in Africa. - Katie Abrams
Your Beauty Routine, Recycled Did you know that you can help the Earth after you’ve helped your skin? That’s the point of the BEAUTYCYCLE program, Nordstrom’s take-back and recycling program exclusively for beauty product packaging. Less than 9% of plastic packaging produced by the beauty industry gets recycled every year, according to Nordstrom, which is why it launched this program in 2020. The goal: To collect 100 tons of plastic packaging by 2025. The program accepts most types of cosmetics, haircare and skincare packaging, regardless of brand or purchase location. Simply drop your discards into a BEAUTYCYCLE collection box, and they’ll be cleaned, separated and eventually upcycled into a variety of new products ranging from park benches to nuts and bolts. BEAUTYCYCLE is available at Nordstrom and Nordstrom Rack locations; check www.nordstrom.com for details. - Lucy Ladis
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 15
16 • SMU LOOK
CASH & CARRY by Lila Bertsch
W
hen Tara McMahon, a student at Southern Methodist University, was writing out her Christmas wish list this past December, she put the Balenciaga Neo Classic bag at the top of it. The bag was pricey — nearly $2,000 — and she already owned a bag from the French luxury brand. But this bag was different. A refreshed and renamed version of the Moto, one of the most iconic bags of the 2000s, the Neo Classic was everywhere, and she felt she had to have it. It was, quite simply, an “It bag.” The world’s earliest handbag dates back to the Stone Age, but the concept of a bag as a status symbol didn’t emerge until the 1950s. That’s when velvet bags from the Italian brand Roberta di Camerino became the must-have accessory of the day, elevated by celebrity fans like Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor. A status bag became “that totemic accessory that announced you were the owner of all that was desirable in the world,” according to Vogue magazine’s 2015 “It Bag Hall of Fame.”
The term “It bag” emerged in the 1990s to describe a new wave of status purses that were sending women into a fashion frenzy. Among the first bags to earn the title was the Fendi Baguette, a rectangular pouch popularized on the TV show, “Sex in the City.” In the decade following its 1997 debut, Fendi sold more than 600,000 of them at an average price of $1,500, according to the Business of Fashion. Luxury handbags are big business. Valued at about $58.3 billion dollars in 2018, the market is expected to grow to nearly $90 billion by 2026, according to an industry forecast report by Allied Market Research, a global market research firm. It’s easy to understand why top fashion brands want their bags to achieve It status. Unfortunately, it’s not that easy. But there are some things that can help.
A LUXE LABEL:
Big brands simply have an edge when it comes to It bags. “People love to purchase luxury items from designers that have a name,” says Jennifer Nisan, founder of Front Row Live, a New York City-based luxury fashion concierge service. “Handbags have been priced at thousands of dollars, but because they are designed by a big fashion house, people will spend the money.”
QUESTIONABLE FUNCTIONABILITY:
Four rules fashion brands can follow to elevate their accessories to “It bag” status.
An example of this concept is the Chloé Paddington bag. When empty, this massive bag, accented with a giant padlock, weighed in at three pounds empty. Yet when it debuted in 2005, 8,000 of them were sold before they arrived in stores, according to Vogue’s Hall of Fame article. Functionality, says Steph Turton, who creates content on Instagram under the handle @handbag_holic, “is just a bonus.”
PAST “IT BAG” STATUS:
Some of today’s most important bags like the Balenciaga Neo Classic, the Prada Re-Edition 2000 and the Gucci Jackie 1961 bag are actually new versions of old classics. These reissued designs appeal to vintage-obsessed Millennials who are “discovering the styles of the 1980s and 1990s with fresh eyes, eager for products with heritage and history,” Chantal Fernandez wrote in a 2019 Business of Fashion article on the comeback of It Bags.
BE A BIRKIN:
The bag, named for the French actress Jane Birkin, launched in 1984 and acquired It bag status in the 1990s. With retail prices rising into the hundreds of thousands of dollars depending on the level of customization, plus a waiting list to get one at any price, the Birkin is considered to be the holy grail of handbags. A 2015 BBC.com article called it “the ultimate status symbol in the arm-candy stakes.”
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 17
Photography: Renee Eisenman and Haley Reed Models: Nadia Armstrong, RaSun Kazadi, Robert Lynch, Sarah Steinhour, Cameron Sudberry Hair and Makeup: KC Chambers, Caroline Davis, Sinclair Jelleme Styling: Bennett Hill, Lilly Jach, Alex Kapelina, Chrissy Nelli Produced by: Sinclair Jelleme, Michaela McTee For a complete Where to Shop listing, go to page 39. Robert Blazer: Etro, $1,930 Pants: Etro, $890 All From Etro Highland Park Village
Stay and play in shimmering sequins and structured silhouettes.
18 • SMU LOOK
Nadia Dress: Norma Kamali, $225 Belt: B-Low the Belt, $155 Earrings: Vahini Earrings, $100 All From Tooties
Robert Blazer: Etro, $1,430 Pants: Etro, $740 All from Etro Highland Park Village Cameron Dress: Norma Kamali, $245 Necklace: Lele Sadoughi, $325 Earrings: Lele Sadoughi, $145 Bag: Cult Gaia, $400 All from Tootsies
Shot on location at The Virgin Hotels Dallas Located in the creative hub of the city, the Dallas Design District, this 268-room luxury property delights with a playfully sophisticated vibe and boasts a rooftop pool and bar, a library coffee shop and a multi-million-dollar art collection on display throughout the space. 1445 Turtle Creek Boulevard, Dallas. 469.359.7003. www.virginhotels.com SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 19
Sarah Dress: Iro, $495, neimanmarcus.com Chain: B-Low the Belt, $155, Tootsies Earrings: Sheridan French, $175, sheridanfrench.com Handbag: Cult Gaia, $298, neimanmarcus.com
20 • SMU LOOK
Cameron Dress: Alice + Olivia, $440 From Alice + Olivia Highland Park Village
Sarah Jacket: Alice + Olivia, $495, neimanmarcus.com Dress: Alice + Olivia, $465, neimanmarcus.com Necklace: Royal Nomad, $650, Tootsies Earrings: Sheridan French, $195, sheridanfrench.com SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 21
Cameron Jacket: Alice + Olivia, $795 Cami: Alice + Olivia, $195 Pants: Alice + Olivia, $295 All from Alice + Olivia Highland Park Village Nadia Shirt: Cult Gaia, $298, Market Pants: Cult Gaia, $398, Market Clutch: Cult Gaia, $300, Tootsies Earrings: Sheridan French, $195, sheridanfrench.com
22 • SMU LOOK
RaSun Blazer: Etro, $1,660 Pants: $860 SPRING/SUMMER 22Etro, • 23 All from Etro Highland Park Village
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24 • SMU LOOK
A HYBRID
The pandemic upended the fashion and beauty industry, but retailers are building back better — and using technology to do it. Here are two ways that retailers are incorporating digital innovation to blend, enhance and elevate the shopping experience.
Two takes on technology and the future of fashion.
ORIZON by Hailey Rednour and Carey McKellar
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 25
Artificial Intelligence: Let’s Get Phygital by Hailey Rednour
W
hen it comes to clothes and cosmetics, consumers are used to having a choice. They can experience shopping inperson – interacting with the sales staff, touching fabric, sampling a color – at a brick-and-mortar retail store. They can opt for ecommerce. Or, they can blend the two: checking out the intended purchase in-store, then going to the website to click-to-buy. The COVID-19 pandemic upended this status quo, ending the ease of in-person shopping. For significant periods of time, ecommerce was the only option. Seizing the opportunity, social media apps expanded their in-app purchasing capabilities, including “quick buy” and “add-to-cart” functionality. Meanwhile, more than 12,000 retail stores closed in the U.S. in the first year of the pandemic alone, according to Fortune magazine. Now, with data suggesting that the pandemic is waning, shopping options are returning — along with the shoppers. In fact, 32% of Americans are spending more money now than before the pandemic began, with 69% feeling comfortable shopping at a mall and over 75% feeling comfortable shopping at a local store or boutique, according to the research firm Morning Consult. Why do people love in-person shopping? Simple: It’s the connection. The relationship. The experience. It’s the confidence that can come from trying-before-buying. Which means that ecommerce needs to figure out how to simulate this experience to survive. Impossible? Not at all! Online retail can stay digital while also providing the feels of an in-person experience thanks to the creation of an approach to retail that experts have dubbed “phygital.” This hybrid approach combines virtual and physical to enhance the overall shopping experience, and it might be the edge ecommerce companies need to succeed.
26 • SMU LOOK
“PHYGITAL COMBINES VIRTUAL AND PHYSICAL TO ENHANCE THE OVERALL SHOPPING EXPERIENCE, AND IT MIGHT BE THE EDGE COMPANIES NEED TO SUCCEED.” Sampo Parkkinen calls it “relationshipbased ecommerce.” He is the founder and CEO of Revieve, based in Helsinki and Chicago. This consumercentric platform is designed to build connections between consumers and brands. Parkkinen helps beauty and wellness retailers use AI and AR to create a more interactive, personalized ecommerce experience. Consumers no longer want just an online point of purchase, Parkkinen says. Instead, “they’re looking for someone who they feel understands them, provides them with value and is really their advocate in whichever category they’re looking to shop in.” Increasingly, that “someone” is artificial intelligence. For example, Revieve’s AI Skincare Advisor replicates the backand-forth between a shopper and an in-store beauty advisor. When a shopper uploads a selfie, it triggers an AI-powered product recommendation engine that, based on its analysis of the selfie (via a proprietary program), interacts with the shopper to understand their concerns, answer their questions and ultimately recommend products or services. AI is also allowing brands to simulate the excitement of live events, an important element in shopper-brand connection. In fact, 80% or marketers surveyed before the pandemic felt live events were crucial to a brand’s success, according to a 2018 survey by the online event building program Bizzabo. Foot Locker has long recognized this, says Latese Hickson, the national sportswear retailer’s senior marketing manager. Live events, she says, create
authentic connections for shoppers, whether they’re buying online or at a brick-and-mortar store. “We have to sell our products, but we’ve learned over time that everyone doesn’t necessarily always need to be fed product,” she says. “Sometimes they want to be fed authenticity — you caring about them, caring about their wellbeing, and building a relationship with them.” To do this, she says Foot Locker blends education with entertainment, sponsoring events ranging from yoga classes to speaking engagements that bring professional athletes to high schools. During the pandemic, however, these inperson experiences ended, just as they ended for every other retailer. Hickson and her team had to think outside the box to create the same connection in a virtual environment. The result: a collaboration with Nike called Discover Your Air that provides a new online experience every other week. Users could enjoy games, giveaways and even access to a bracketing system to rank their favorite Nike sneakers. Although this program ended, Hickson says the concept was so successful that digital interaction will continue to be part of the company’s brand strategy, even as shoppers return to Foot Locker’s stores. When digital is done right, she says, it can be “like building a friendship.” Hailey Rednour is a senior majoring in journalism and fashion media and minoring in Spanish and psychology.
Augmented Reality: The Value of Virtual by Carey McKellar
W
hat if everyone’s favorite boutique could come to them? Imagine shopping from home — not through a screen, but from a three-dimensional rack of clothes that could be tried on, changed out, examined and admired. That’s the beauty of augmented reality. Augmented reality enhances the online shopping experience by providing realistic, multi-dimensional representations of products. Images and information can be overlayed onto actual objects, or it can exist independently, allowing shoppers to visualize and engage with virtual products through a smartphone camera, a special viewer or a pair of glasses. “These are photorealistic assets that you can engage with, configure and have at your fingertips to try on, visualize and compare,” explains Patrick Johnson, CEO and founder of Rock Paper Reality, an augmented reality technology agency in San Francisco. The company recently worked with luxury retailer Saks Fifth Avenue to provide 3D imagery viewable through smart glasses or a smartphone camera. Among the virtual options: browsing a clothing rack, viewing clothing on a mannequin and receiving relevant information and recommendations. AR technology in the form of “wearable computing” has existed since the 1990s, but the migration to ecommerce caused by the pandemic accelerated its development as a shopping tool. In 2020, the AR market was valued at 14.7 billion; thanks to the pandemic, that market is expected to increase to 88.4 billion by 2026, according to a 2021 report from ReportLinker, a tech company that uses artificial intelligence to deliver market data and forecasts. AR’s appeal lies in its ability to improve the shopping experience, says Johnson. It does this in two ways. First, it helps remedy one of the biggest revenuebusters involved in online sales: the return. It also encourages shoppers to feel more confident about their
purchases, so they buy more, which boosts the retailer’s bottom line.The fashion industry sees the highest rate of online returns out of any other product category – one study by SaleCycle set the return rate above 50% of all clothing and shoes purchased online. The number one reason consumers return products is because of fit issues, the second top reason is because the product received was different from the photo on a website, according to Narvar, a post-purchase customer experience platform. AR can help align these expectations, says fashion designer Jenny Seide of Green Neurons, a sustainable product design and development company in Dallas. AR, she says, helps prevent fit issues, serving as a “preventive measure to lower the amount of merchandise being returned.” It worked for Gucci. The Italian luxury brand launched its first AR try-on app in 2019, allowing shoppers to virtually try on the Ace sneaker by pointing their iPhone camera at their feet. This effort was so successful that in 2020, the brand partnered with Snapchat to offer a sneaker try-on filter available through the social media app. (The filter even directed the shopper to the Gucci website to purchase the pair they just tried on.). This try-before-you-buy option eliminated both disappointed customers and product return costs stemming from this disappointment, according to the business news platform Marketing Dive, while also “driving brand loyalty and future sales.” Ecommerce retailers who use AR to support sales also report higher rates of conversion, the term for the percentage of website visitors who make a purchase.
In general, a good conversion rate for ecommerce is between 1% and 4%, according to a 2021 article from OmniConvert, a software company for conversion rate optimization. Adding 3D content to ecommerce can lift convergence by an average of 94%, according to a 2021 ShopifyPlus report on its client retailers and their experience with AR. In a 2020 study by Vertebrae, a Facebook AR partner that works with Coach, Adidas and other major brands, customer conversion rates increased by 90% for customers who engaged with AR compared to those customers who did not. When ShopifyPlus vendor Moscot, a family-owned luxury eyewear brand, revamped its website to offer shoppers the opportunity to virtually try on glasses from every angle overlaid on their face, its conversion rates more than doubled, with overall revenue amongst shoppers who engaged with the 3D and VR increasing by 174%. Ultimately, it’s only a matter of time before every ecommerce fashion platform adopts AR, says Johnson. “Because at the end of the day,” he says, “They’re going to be at a disadvantage because their competitors are going to be using it.” Carey McKellar is a senior majoring in fashion media and minoring in advertising.
“THESE ARE PHOTOREALISTIC ASSETS THAT YOU CAN ENGAGE WITH, CONFIGURE AND HAVE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS TO TRY ON, VISUALIZE AND COMPARE.” SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 27
THE
Fashion’s biggest brands are singing the praises of the Spanish-language music genre’s top stars. by Marian Rowley
F
ashion has always been essential to reggaeton, but reggaeton has not always been essential to the fashion industry — until now. Born in Panama in the 1970s, reggaeton is a Spanish-language music genre brought to life by blending Jamaican dancehall style with reggae and hip-hop. But reggaeton isn’t just about danceable beats; it’s also about fashion. It’s long been common for its artists to namecheck brands like Nike, Versace, Gucci and Dior both in lyrics and song titles. But the genre’s love affair with fashion was once one-sided. Fashion brands simply didn’t have reggaeton on their radar. Indeed, in a 2018 Business of Fashion article about the growing connection between the genre and fashion brands, reggaeton celebrity stylist Irma Martinez recalls how difficult it once was to find a fashion brand even willing to dress reggaeton artists, much less partner with them on a campaign or a collaboration. That all changed in 2017, when Puerto Rican singer Luis Fonsi teamed up with pop musician Justin Bieber to remix his song, “Despacito.” The catchy tune became the year’s most-streamed song, the mostviewed YouTube video of all time and one of Billboard’s biggest hits of all time. “Everything changed with Despacito,” confirms Diana Abad, business development manager at Roots Latam, a marketing agency in Panama that works with reggaeton artists. Fonsi’s success, she says, sent reggaeton into the musical mainstream. Since then, reggaeton has become synonymous with popular culture.
“Latino music and culture is pop culture right now,” says AJ Ramos, Latin artist relations manager at YouTube in New York City. Accordingly, fashion brands figured out the potential of partnering with its brightest stars — stars who remained as fashion-obsessed as ever. For example, Bad Bunny’s 2020 song “Yo Visto Así” (I dress like this) is a veritable ode to his personal style. Karol G sings about her new Nike Air Jordans in her hit 2021 song, “El Makinon,” and Myke Towers’ “Burberry” topped the charts in 2021, as did Jhay Cortez’s song, “Christian Dior.” Then there’s Maluma, the stage name of the Colombian singer known for his suave style. He wears so much Versace that Donatella herself called him a “Versace King” in a recent New York Times profile of the singer. Not only did Versace design Maluma’s red leather look for the 2021 Met Gala, but Donatella was also his date to the exclusive event.
“These artists have the ability to sell just about any product they put their name on to their legions of fans. “ Of course, fashion brands are seeking more than just a cultural connection with pop culture’s favorite fashionistas. Partnering with reggaeton artists makes sense because of the influence these artists hold over fashion spending across the growing Hispanic and Latino market and also because of the value of their social media influence across this important market sector. And just who makes up the Hispanic and Latino market? In the U.S. alone, Hispanic Americans will account for over 20% of the population by
2025 and nearly 24% of all Millennials (born 1980 to 1994), according to a 2021 study of the Hispanic-American market from marketing and research firm Claritas. The study also found that fashion spending among this growing population is significant: about onethird of projected revenue growth in the apparel sector will come from Hispanic households. That’s where reggaeton comes in. Abad believes these artists have the ability to sell just about any product they put their name on to their legions of fans. “Latino artists have been doing an amazing job at creating communities with their fans,” she says. Their fans, Abad adds, “want to identify as part of certain group, they are going to buy anything that makes them feel like they belong.” Macy’s seems to agree. On March 24, the New York City-based company launched a ready-to-wear collection called Royalty by Maluma. The line isn’t Maluma’s first foray into fashion — in 2021, he collaborated with luxury French fashion brand Balmain and its creative director, Olivier Rousteing, on a capsule collection inspired by the neon colors of Miami. Rousteing called it the brand’s highest-selling online collection, according to the New York Times profile. Nike, too, has found success with a reggaeton partnership. In 2020, colorobsessed Colombian artist J Balvin created a tie-dye version of Air Jordan 1s. Dropped during his Super Bowl LIV Halftime Show performance, the sneakers sold out the same day,
according to Billboard.com. But reggaeton artists don’t just deliver on sales, they also provide fashion brands with a branding bonus: social media influence. Latinos and Hispanics are considered the most engaged of all minority markets on social media, according to a study by Nielsen Holdings on the rise of Latinx influencers. On Instagram, reggaeton artists are confirmed influencers: J Balvin boasts a follower count over 50 million, and Maluma’s exceeds 60 million. When Bad Bunny used his Instagram account in early March 2021 to hype his upcoming sneaker collab with athleticwear giant Adidas, his legions of fans were ready. When the sneaker dropped days later, it sold out within minutes, according to People En Español. French luxury brand Jacquemus also hopped on the Bad Bunny social media bandwagon. Bad Bunny’s fan base was a “critical asset” for Jacquemus when it came to marketing its February collection “Le Splash,” according to a FashionNetwork.com story on the brand’s social media marketing strategy surrounding the partnership. Images of Bad Bunny posted on Jaquemus’s Instagram account on Feb. 7 garnered more
REVOLUTION than 600,000 likes in just 24 hours, a result that, according to the article, contributed to the brand’s ability to increase its desirability among consumers. The success of this these collabs and others doesn’t surprise Ramos. They simply reflect the power of reggaeton artists in the fashion world. “We are at the point,” he says, “that these brands have no other choice but to collaborate.” Marian Rowley is a junior majoring in marketing and fashion media.
DRIV ING STY LE. Candy colors and miles of denim drive spring’s most important looks.
Jumpsuit: Frame, $428, Frame Highland Park Village Sunglasses: Off-White, $364, www.nordstrom.com Ring: Trina Turk, $74, Trina Turk Highland Park Village
30 • SMU LOOK
Photography: Ella McDonald and Ethan Rios Styling: Bennet Hill, Lily Jach, Alex Kapelina, Chrissy Nelli Model Coordination: Sinclair Jelleme Production: Michaela McTee Models: Hannah Hohman, Kara O’Neal, Isabelle Tobin Hair and Makeup: Olivia Atherton For a complete Where to Shop listing, go to page 39.
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 31
Hannah Shorts: Frame, $598 Blouse: Frame, $445 All from Frame Highland Park Village Earrings: Lele Sadoughi, $125 Bracelet: Lele Sadoughi, $125 Belt: Lele Sadoughi, $195 All from Lele Sadoughi Highland Park Village Heels: John Fluevog, $349, John Fluevog Shoes Isabelle Top: Frame, $229 Pants: Frame, $228 All from Frame Highland Park Village Necklace: Lele Sadoughi, $295 Small Necklace: Lele Sadoughi, $175 All from Lele Sadoughi Highland Park Village Sunglasses: Trina Turk, $88, Trina Turk Highland Park Village Sandals: John Fluevog, $389, John Fluevog Shoes
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Top: $45, Beehive Jeans: Alice + Olivia, $660, Alice + Olivia Highland Park Village SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 33
Dress: $65, Esther Penn Sunglasses: Versace, $209, www.otticanet.com Jacket: Similar styles from Lamarque, $250, www.revolve.com 34 • SMU LOOK
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 35
SWOOSH APPEAL
I
nfluential. Iconic. GOAT. These are a few words used to describe sneakers made by Nike. The adjectives aren’t surprising. After all, Nikes have long been the sneaker of choice among the world’s most influential people. Tennis icon Serena Williams famously rocked neon yellow Nike Air Force 1s when she stepped onto the Met Gala red carpet in 2019. Pop music legend Justin Bieber did, too, donning doodled-on Air Force 1s to the gala in 2021. Other fans of the brand include models Kaia Gerber and Kendall Jenner and musicians Billie Eilish and A$AP Rocky. It’s an impressive list, especially considering Nike sneakers are about as mainstream as a brand can get. In fact, Nike is considered the world’s largest supplier and manufacturer of athletic shoes, according to Statistica. Based in Beaverton, Oregon, Nike operates more than 1,000 retail stores worldwide along with a thriving ecommerce business. in 2021, its footwear business alone generated more than $28 billion in sales revenue. Which begs the question: How can a shoe owned by so many people around the world also be so cool that celebrities wear it to the Met Gala? The answer lies in the rise of streetwear culture and Nike’s embrace of its stars and adoption of its sales strategy.
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Nike is the most popular sneaker brand in the world. So how does this common kick stay so cool? by Victoria Cruz
The Nike brand dates back to 1964, when college track and field athlete Phil Knight and his coach, Bill Bowerman, started selling running shoes at track meets from the trunk of Knight’s car. For almost 20 years, Nike’s branding stayed close to its sports origins, centering its marketing efforts on the shoe alone. That changed in 1985 when Nike announced its partnership with then up-and-coming basketball player Michael Jordan to create a new shoe, the Nike Air Jordan. For Nike, the deal was primarily a business decision. “The Air Jordan project was the result of a concerted effort to shake things up,” Knight told the Harvard Business Review in a 1992 interview. “With sales stagnating, we knew we had to do more than produce another great Nike running shoe.” The shoe was an instant hit: Nike generated over $100 million in Air Jordan sneaker sales in its first year alone, and sales stayed strong. The popularity of the Air Jordan corresponded to the rise in the 1990s of a new fashion category called streetwear. Influenced by hiphop music, graffiti and skateboard and surf subcultures, streetwear involves the sale and resale of casual fashion, including sneakers, to a target market largely under 25 years old, according to the 2019 Streetwear Impact Report, an
analysis of the streetwear market from Hypebeast, a streetwearindustry media brand, and Strategy&, a consulting firm in the PwC network. And what motivates consumers to buy streetwear? According to the report, the vast majority – 70% of its survey respondents – think streetwear cool.
“Not only do people go after the shoes, but when it’s a collab, the shoes carry a history — a deeper meaning.” That sense of coolness, according to the report, stems from a demand that exceeds supply. Streetwear, it states, “has single-handedly subverted the traditional fashion system by redefining its main component: exclusivity.” Josh Luber, the co-founder of leading streetwear resale platform StockX, agrees. He explained to Hypebeast in 2019 that, “as soon as supply is greater than demand,
that product’s not scarce anymore. So it’s not cool to a certain group who wants that totally unique selfexpression.” Streetwear consumers, he continued, “don’t want to possibly wear something that any person off the street can just walk in and buy.” The Streetwear Impact Report’s survey also asked consumers to list the top 10 coolest streetwear brands in the market today. Nike came in second, behind Supreme. Nike’s balancing act between exclusive coolness and accessible mass-market is made possible in part because of the hype created by its celebrity collaborations — but not just any celebrities. “Very few celebrities have the power to influence what sneakers are in style,” says Lucas Maldonado, a sneaker collector and associate at the high-end sneaker and streetwear boutique, Backdoor Miami. “They must be very recognized figures who have a lot of hype and are known for their streetwear styles.” That often means partnering with musicians, says fashion media professor Jenny Davis, who has taught a streetwear course at Southern Methodist University in Dallas. But topping the charts alone isn’t enough to justify a sneaker collab, she says. The artist must also resonate with streetwear consumers. “There’s a reason Nike isn’t collaborating with Taylor Swift,” Davis says. “That collab would 100 percent sell, but Nike will never do it because she’s just not hype.” Travis Scott, however, is hype. Nike has teamed up with the awardwinning (and controversial) American rapper multiple times; their October, 2019 Air Jordan 6 sold out in minutes.
Nike also partners with influential streetwear brands. Nike has collaborated with Supreme since 2002, and it’s also released many notable collabs with Off-White, which ranks third on the Streetwear Impact Report List, most notably in 2017 when Off-White founder Virgil Abloh redesigned 10 different Nike sneaker styles. Coming in at number 10 on the list is Balenciaga. Nike’s collabed with this luxury powerhouse, too, releasing a sneaker in 2018 that GQ.com determined would look “just as cool on a marathon runner as it would on a street-style god.”
“THE DROP IS A CLASSIC STREETWEAR SALES MODEL THAT SUPPORTS THE PERCEPTION OF SCARCITY AND CREATES A SENSE OF URGENCY.”
location or you have to log on at a specific time.” This strategy not only supports the perception of scarcity, it also creates a sense of urgency that persuades customers to get the shoes before they sell out, says Matt Powell, a senior industry advisor at New Yorkbased marketing research company NPD Group. Maldonado points to the Air Jordan 1OG Dior, released in July, 2020, as a perfect example of how successful this sales strategy has been for Nike. In June, Dior launched a microsite specifically to sign up for a chance to buy one of the two shoe styles. Five million people signed up, but only 13,000 shoes were made, according to WWD. While the shoes were pricey to start — $2,000 for the low-top and $2,200 for the high-top, according to WWD — Maldonado says he’s seen them on the resale market for more than $14,000. For Maldonado, it’s about giving a comfortable, high-performing sneaker a new significance. “Not only do people go after the shoes,” he says, “but when it’s a collab, the shoes carry a history — a deeper meaning.” Victoria Cruz is a senior majoring in fashion media and marketing.
Another reason for Nike’s cool reputation is the sales strategy it uses for these collaboration sneakers: the drop.The drop is a classic streetwear sales model that combines a limited-edition product with a defined sales timeframe to ensure that demand exceeds supply, Davis explains. “Often, there’s some degree of difficulty connected to participation, like you have to be on a list, know a code, be present at a specific
SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 37
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WHERE TO SHOP Beehive 4808 Camp Bowie Blvd. Fort Worth lovebeehive.com Esther Penn North Henderson 2802 N. Henderson Ave. Dallas estherpenn.com Frame Highland Park Village 6 Highland Park Village Dallas frame-store.com Isabel Marant NorthPark Center 8687 N. Central Expy. Dallas isabelmarant.com/us John Fluevog Shoes Deep Ellum 2633 Main St., Ste. 130 Dallas fluevog.com Lele Sadoughi Highland Park Village 67 Highland Park Village Dallas lelesadoughi.com
Congratulations to Mary-Wesley Maddox SMU Look 2020-2021 Editor 2021 Texas Intercollegiate Press Association Editor/News Director of the Year Congratulations to last year’s SMU Look staff on winning the following TIPA magazine awards: First Place, Cover Design Second Place, Overall General Excellence Second Place, Story Package Design Second Place, Overall Design
Market Highland Park Village 26 Highland Park Village Dallas shopmarkethighlandpark.com Neiman Marcus NorthPark Center 8687 N. Central Expy. Dallas neimanmarcus.com Saint Michael’s Woman’s Exchange Highland Park Village 5 Highland Park Village Dallas smwexchange.com Tootsies The Plaza at Preston Center 8300 Preston Road Dallas tootsies.com Trina Turk Highland Park Village 93 Highland Park Village Dallas trinaturk.com SPRING/SUMMER 22 • 39
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shemara
Shemara Couture is an exclusive atelier in the design district in Dallas. Shemara brings your vision to life creating custom one-of-a-kind bridal, evening wear, mother-of-the-bride/groom, suits and men’s tuxedos. She collaborates with her clients to create an exquisite look using the finest fabrics and impeccable workmanship that is the true definition of a couture design. Shemara creates an unforgettable experience from the first sketch to the final product to make your vision a reality!
1300 North Riverfront Boulevard Dallas, TX 75207 • www.shemaracouture.com 469-855-4890 • by appointment only
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