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M E D I U M D O N E W E L L A W E ’ R E

TOP OF THE RIB: MORE MARBLE THAN THE TAJ MAHAL.

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ISSUE OCTOBER 2019

IT’S A BRAID NEW WORLD: A TWIST ON CHALLAH.

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NEW DELHI MAKES MORE THAN JUST DELI.


THE NEW PRIVATE COLLECTION Luxury Wine, Affordable Price

Cheers For Those Special Moments ‫ו‬ ‫ז‬ ‫ח‬ ‫ט‬ ‫י‬

‫א‬ ‫ב‬ ‫ג‬ ‫ד‬ ‫ה‬


With Every New Year, a Renewed Commitment to

Quality and Value.

Split Minute Ro

Serves: 8 / Prep: 20 mins / Cook : 2 hrs

INGREDIEN

TS

DIRECTION

1 3-4 lb. Split Minute Roast (2 Pieces) 3 large onions,

MINU SPLIT

diced 1 cup soy sauc e 1 cup maple syru (pancake syru p p)

AS TE RO

C E DA R H U R

T

ST • WOOD MER

> Split Minute Roast

ast

Recipe cards available at a Gourmet Glatt near you.

S

Preheat oven to 350° F. Put the 2 pieces of meat in separate 9 x 13 trays. Mix the soy sauce and the maple syrup together and pour roasting pan, enoug half over each h that it comes up to cover at least half half the onions over of the meat. Pour each roast. Bake covered for about 1 hour 20 minutes. Remove from oven and cool completely. Slice the meat thinly the roasting pans making sure the gravy and covers the meat almos place back in Reheat for at least t completely. 45 minutes to make sure the meat is comp cooking process is finished. letely hot and the

E • LAKEW OO

D • BROOK LY N

• GOURME TG

L AT T. C O M

cedarhurst

woodmere

boro park

lakewood

137 Spruce Street Cedarhurst, New York T: 516-569-2662

1030 Railroad Ave Woodmere, New York T: 516-295-6901

1274 39th Street Brooklyn, New York T: 718-437-3000

1700 Madison Avenue Lakewood, New Jersey T: 732-961-1700

Shop online at GourmetGlattOnline.com

/gourmetglatt


CONTENTS

8 10

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EDITOR’S LETTER

SUPPLIES Get Organized for the New Year.

13

INDIAN FEAST

BUTCHER’S CUT Top of the rib is the perfect alternative to traditional brisket.

37

CULINARY SCHOOL

Perfect pretzel challah and learn some fun new shapes for this Yom Tov season.

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TOP 5

TRAVEL TO INDIA Discover India’s rich Jewish history and unique destinations.

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GEFILTE FISH Ever wonder how to cook gefilte fish? We tried over 10 methods and share our top 6.

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COOKBOOK REVIEW Simply Gourmet by Rivky Kleiman.

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NEW PRODUCT TESTING The experts weigh in.

SIMANIM

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53 POTLUCK

RESTAURANT CHRONICLES A night with marketing experts at T-Fusion steakhouse.

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INTERVIEW Private chef Hunny Khodorkovsky shares her story and tips she learned along the way.

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RECIPE INDEX

CHANIE APFELBAUM is the author of Millennial Kosher and works as a recipe developer and food photographer. She has been featured in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Huffington Post, News12 Brooklyn, NY1, The Meredith Vieira Show, Thrillist and more. She was named Best Jew-ish Chef of 2018 in the Forward Food Choice Awards. She shares her take on simanim, her favorite way to cook gefilte fish and more.

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LAST BITE

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h s i f e r o m ess filt e l Sure, it’s gefilte fish, but you probably aren’t buying it for the potato starch and onions. That’s why we pack each Ungar’s loaf with more fresh, responsibly-sourced fish like whitefish and pike, and fewer fillers - no substitutes, powders or artificial flavors, ever.


editor's letter

YO M TOV I S S U E

TO USHER IN THE NEW YEAR, FLEISHIGS STYLE , WE BRING YOU FRESH, MODERN TAKES ON THE CLASSICS.

T

his is our final issue of the Jewish calendar, and what a year it’s been! It’s unbelievable to think about how much can happen in a year. Last year at this time, Fleishigs Magazine was just a concept. Our mission statement of presenting kosher food and Jewish pride in a revolutionary way, worldwide, has truly come to fruition. We thank you all for your support and for joining us on this wild, exciting ride. In that regard, our Yom Tov issue is all about new flavor profiles and updates on traditional classics. Who would expect an Indian feast at the Sukkos table? No one really. But once you see what we’re offering up, you’ll wonder why you haven’t thought of it until now. Eitan Bernath (@chefeitanbernath) shares an incredible Indian feast with an indescribable combination of warming flavors and textures that fit the season perfectly. While on the topic of Indian cuisine, travel extraordinaire Miriam Schreiber (@miriamslegacykoshertours) takes us on a journey to India and shares its rich and somewhat unexpected Jewish history. Another surprising addition to our table is pretzel challah (and its many variations) that challah master Kayla Kaye (@thekitchny) shared with us. And while we’re offering you new options, I went all out in the “Butcher’s Cut” section this month and introduced some new flavor profiles to the classic braised roast we all know and love. This month it’s all about top of the rib. Try my Middle Eastern take with figs and baharat, or go the Korean route with some gochujang and garlic. Either way, your guests will be blown away. And why not de-stress and try out the potluck concept this Yom Tov? With so many back-to-back meals headed our way, we decided to collaborate with the minds

behind Ami Magazine’s weekly food supplement, Whisk, on such a concept. Together, we came up with the ultimate holiday potluck, bringing something amazing to the table in the form of unity, camaraderie and of course, excellent food (and wine). In an issue that’s all about new flavors and traditions that pop, cookbook author and food blogger Chanie Apflebaum (@busyinbrooklyn) is the perfect voice to take this issue over the top as guest editor. She shares recipes that showcase simanim (foods that symbolize the blessings we look for in the coming year) that are not only fabulous but also extremely approachable. Look out for Chanie’s thoughts and tips throughout the issue. Lastly, we spent weeks in the test kitchen to bring you the perfect gefilte fish primer, because even some traditions can’t be broken. We also spent a considerable amount of time researching how the newest form of butter replacement, Betterine, performs in professional kitchens, with experts from around the country weighing in on the matter. The current Jewish year, 5779, leaves me feeling inspired and excited about the year to come. We have been brainstorming and conceptualizing how to outdo year 1 of Fleishigs Magazine, so stay tuned (and keep in touch) via email, Facebook and Instagram to see what revolutionary ideas, events and concepts will be coming your way. Bitayavon, Shifra P.S. We would love to see your Fleishigs creations, so be sure to share via email, Facebook or Instagram. Subscribers! Two incredible recipes that didn’t make it into the issue will land in your email inbox soon.

Tried one of our recipes? Let us know! Hello@fleishigs.com 8

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@Fleishigsmag

@Fleishigsmag

@Fleishigsmagazine

EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chaviva Gordon-Bennett COPYWRITER Yudi Lewis DESIGN estudio-5.com PRODUCTION estudio-5.com PHOTOGRAPHER Schneur Menaker FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein KITCHEN ASSISTANT Devorah Kahan Marney Levy MARKETING & BRANDING Mann Sales Co. TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt RABBINICAL AUTHORITY www.ok.org www.fleishigs.com

Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine, or for the content of books. Fleishigs magazine is not responsible for typographical errors. Thank you to Fishs Eddy for providing many of the beautiful dishes used to photograph recipes for this issue. Visit www.fishseddy.com or their store located at 889 Broadway at 19th Street in NYC for flatware, dining ware, kitchenware, silverware, linens and more.

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WE'RE NOT CATCHING YOUR ATTENTION WITH CREATIVE STYLES OR OVERSIZED PROMISES.

BECAUSE WHEN YOU KNOW LEITER'S , YOU KNOW.

NO CATCHY SLOGANS. NO FANCY GRAPHICS. JUST LEITERS.

718.436.0303 1346 39TH STREET LEITERSSUKKAH.COM


GADGETS

DIGITAL KITCHEN FOOD SCALE AND MEASURING CUP This 2-in-1 gadget by Kitchen Metrics makes for precise baking results by allowing you to measure and weigh ingredients in one shot. $25 www.amazon.com

Get Organized Put your best tools forward

The following kitchen gadgets provide helpful ways to stay organized in the kitchen — and make cooking easier. FRANKFURTER BRETT This company offers chopping board workstations starting at around $140. You can customize the entire work surface, from the board to the attached containers and you can even personalize the space. The only downside is the hefty shipping fee from the company’s location in Germany. $140+ www.frankfurter-brett.de/en

MUELLER ONION CHOPPER PRO VEGETABLE CHOPPER This chopper is a workforce and holds up to 4 cups of chopped vegetables. It’s especially useful for onions and also makes the quickest Israeli salad. $20.99 www.muellerdirect.com

I'm a bit of a spice hoarder so in order to organize my spices, I have a wall rack on the pantry door. Everything is in plain view and the spices are kept away from the heat in a cool, dry place - it's a must have for spice enthusiasts like me! -Chanie Apfelbaum

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Tips to Prep for the Yom Tov Season BY REVA LIEBERMAN

OVER-THE-SINK STRAINER CUTTING BOARD This synthetic cutting board, available exclusively at Williams Sonoma, rests over your kitchen sink, allowing you to chop and rinse produce on a single surface for efficient use of time and space. The 6-cup strainer is also removable for use on its own. $49.95 www.williams-sonoma.com

CUP BOARD PRO Featured on Shark Tank™, this innovative cutting board was designed by Keith Young, a New York City firefighter, chef and devoted dad. After losing their dad to 9/11-related cancer, Keith’s children are celebrating his legacy by bringing his product to life. The eco-friendly, reversible board is equipped with a detachable silicone tray that hangs over the counter’s edge, so it’s easy to separate prepared ingredients from food scraps. $59.99 www.firehousechefky.com

Start fresh. Use up whatever

you can before the holidays by thawing the frozen spinach or chicken cutlets that have been pushed to the back of the freezer since Pesach. Divide the freezer into categories, such as meat and poultry, prepared foods, easy dinners, desserts, vegetables and ice cream.

Label everything. Be sure to not only label the items you freeze for holiday meals, but also keep a running list of those items on the outside of your freezer (or tape the list to the inside of the closest cabinet).

Get a head start. Make as much as you can in advance. Potato kugel, soups, braised roasts and chicken will freeze, defrost and heat up beautifully for the Yom Tov table.

Inventory serving ware.

Make sure your serve ware matches up with the menu you’ve got planned and the number of guests you’ve invited.

Scavenge the pantry. Search OXO GOOD GRIPS BOX GRATER Each side of this box grater offers a different surface for all-purpose grating, zesting and slicing. Etched, stainless-steel blades make crisp, clean cuts and the soft-touch handle eases your grip. Use the handy container to catch, measure and store grated food. $19.99 www.oxo.com

your pantry before shopping and inventory what you have so you don’t end up with multiple bottles of balsamic. Create a system of keeping tabs on what is in your pantry so you don’t end up with 3 containers of breadcrumbs. Some examples: Tape a list inside your pantry, use a small dry erase board or use a notes application on your phone.

Stockpile bins. Personally, I like

putting things into clear containers so I can see what I have, but baskets of any kind work well too. OXO POP Containers let you see how much of each item you have left so you know when you need to replenish. Reva is a master organizer whose clients say she can make any space more functional and beautiful. Find her on Instagram @yourpersonalorganizer or give her a call at (347) 909-0900.

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GREAT MEALS start with

GREAT MEAT

From Butcher’s Cut to basics, visit growandbehold.com/fleishigs for great meats delivered to your door and 400+ recipes to inspire your next great meal.

Pasture Raised

No Hormones or Antibiotics

Family Farms

Let’s Talk Meat! 1-888-790-5781


BUTCHER'S CUT

of the

I

S

KE

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SCHNEUR MENAKER

T HAN B R T R

Rib

BY NAFTALI HANAU

EVEN B E

TE

Top

T

Pro tips: 1. Bring roast to room

H

ere’s a trick you need to know for the holidays: You don’t have to order a “brisket” to serve what we all think of as brisket. That is, a delicious, sweet-and-sour braised piece of gently marbled beef. Nestled on the top of the rib is a roast that fits this description perfectly — and, some might say, is even better than brisket itself. A whole brisket has a larger, leaner flat first cut and a smaller, more marbled section called the second cut. Cooking both to perfection can be tricky. What do you do if everyone prefers the marbling on the smaller second cut but all that’s left is the first cut or vice versa? Top of the rib is your answer. Top of the rib is a roast with uniform marbling throughout that falls roughly between the first and the second cut brisket in terms of tenderness and marbling. In addition to the evenness of the marbling, which makes it easier to cook and serve, it also has a richer, beefier flavor; think of the flavor of a chuck steak versus that of ribeye. They’re both good — but the chuck and the top of the rib just give you more beefy goodness.

temperature, so it cooks more evenly and gets a perfect sear. 2. For the liquid, a

How to cook top of the rib roast:

combination of broth,

The ideal technique is braising.

How much roast per person?

You can follow any brisket or braising recipe for roast, replacing with top of the rib. Start by searing to build up flavor. Next, sauté vegetables such as onions and carrots with your preferred seasonings and tomato paste. Then, add the meat, partially cover with liquid, cover tightly and braise at 300°F, until meat is tender.

wine and water works well.

Top of the rib roasts are generally about 2-4 pounds each, although you can find larger or smaller ones occasionally. We generally recommend you plan on ½ pound per person for a hearty main dish and leftovers or ⅓ pound per person if you are serving other meat dishes at the meal.

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’L L

G O FA ST.

TO

P OF

I T ’S C

LA

Sous Vide Top of the Rib

S

S

T ,I

ADDING BONE MARROW TO THE SOUS VIDE BAG WITH THIS LEAN CUT OF MEAT LENDS A SUBTLE RICHNESS THAT CAN’T BE FOUND ELSEWHERE — NO SAUCE OR SPICES NECESSARY.

Naf Hanau is the CEO of Grow & Behold, an online purveyor with nationwide delivery specializing in expertly butchered premium-quality kosher meats. Naf’s passion for kosher meat led him to learn shechita before founding Grow & Behold, which produces pasture-raised beef, veal, lamb and poultry raised with no hormones or antibiotics. Find out more at www.growandbehold.com. 14

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Baharat and Fig

BUTCHER'S CUT

Braised Top of the Rib

This sweet-and-savory roast screams fall, the Jewish New Year and Sukkot all in one. The unique flavor profile of baharat (which is a secret ingredient in many Israeli cholent recipes), coupled with figs and silan, brings something new to the classic braised roast that is so reminiscent of the holidays.

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Korean Braised Top of the Rib 16

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Korean Braised Top of the Rib Serves: 8 4 pound top of the rib roast 2 tablespoons neutral oil, such as grapeseed or avocado 2 bunches scallions 2 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 1 cup hard apple cider ⅓ cup gochujang paste 2 tablespoons soy sauce ¼ cup brown sugar 1 cup sweetened apple sauce 4 cloves garlic, crushed Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat a large pan over medium-high heat. Drizzle the oil in pan and sear roast 8 minutes per side, until a crust forms and it releases easily enough from the pan to flip over. While roast is searing, thinly slice 1 bunch of scallions, leaving the other bunch whole. Remove roast from pan and place in a 9x13-inch dish. Place the whole bunch of scallions in pan with roast. In the same pan, heat the sesame oil oil over medium heat. Sauté the sliced scallions for 3 minutes. Add hard apple cider and simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the gochujang, soy sauce, brown sugar, apple sauce and garlic. Cook over medium heat until sauce comes together. Pour over roast. Cover tightly with foil and braise in the oven for 3 hours. Allow roast to cool before slicing. Slice, roast, reheat and serve with bean sprout salad and spicy cucumber salad.

Instant Pot preparation: Cook on high pressure for 70 minutes. Remove roast and allow to cool. Place sauce ingredients in the Instant Pot and set to high pressure for 3 minutes to reduce. Slice roast when cool. Pour reduced sauce over the meat. Serve with bean sprout salad and spicy cucumber salad.

Bean Sprout Salad Serves: 4-8 1 pound bean sprouts 3 scallions, finely chopped 2 teaspoons crushed garlic 1 tablespoon sesame oil 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon Sriracha, optional Kosher salt to taste Rinse the bean sprouts twice in cold water and drain; dry well. Toss with remaining ingredients and season with more salt, if needed.

Spicy Cucumber Salad Serves: 4 You can easily double this recipe to serve more. It stores well for a few days when covered in the fridge, so make a large batch to last the few days of Sukkot. Gochugaru or Korean red chili flakes can be found kosher under the McCormick brand of spices. 1 English cucumber, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon Korean red chili flakes or gochugaru 1 tablespoon minced scallion ½ teaspoon minced garlic 1 teaspoon vinegar ½ teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon toasted sesame seeds 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil Toss the cucumbers gently with salt and set aside for about 15 minutes. Drain excess liquid, but avoid squeezing the cucumbers because they will bruise. Mix well with the remaining ingredients.

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BUTCHER'S CUT

Sous Vide Top of the Rib Serves: 8

Baharat and Fig Braised Top of the Rib Serves: 8

This recipe is perfect for purists who want 100% beef flavor. Adding bone marrow to the sous vide bag with this lean cut of meat lends a subtle richness that can’t be found elsewhere — no sauce or spices necessary. This roast is perfect served with classics like mashed potatoes and gravy, but it’s also amazing cold or at room temperature in salads or reheated with barbecue sauce for classic BBQ beef sandwiches. 4 pound top of the rib roast 1 pound marrow bones 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 3 sprigs thyme, optional 1 bunch chives, chopped Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, for serving

4 pound top of the rib roast 3 tablespoons baharat 3 tablespoons grapeseed oil, divided 2 large onions, thinly sliced 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 cup dried figs 2 teaspoons kosher salt 3 tablespoons tomato paste 2 cups semi-dry white wine ¼ cup silan (date syrup) 2 cups chicken stock or water 2 sprigs thyme, optional 1 dried bay leaf 1 cup fresh figs, sliced, for garnish Preheat oven to 350°F. Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large pan over mediumhigh heat. Coat roast with baharat, reserving a

bit of spice to add to the sauce later. Sear roast for 6 minutes per side and set aside. Add the rest of the oil and sauté onions for 15 minutes, until translucent. Add garlic and dried figs and sauté for 2 minutes. Season with salt. Add tomato paste and cook for 5 minutes, until tomato paste becomes golden. Deglaze the pan with wine and cook for 3 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan until it is clear of any browned bits. Add silan, stock or water, thyme and bay leaf. Pour sauce over roast. Cover tightly with foil and braise in oven for 3 hours. Allow roast to fully cool before slicing. Slice roast, reheat and serve with fresh figs.

Fill a large pot with water and set your sous vide to 133°F for 48 hours. Place the roast in a large freezer-safe, Ziploc bag with the marrow bones, salt, pepper and thyme, if using. Seal using a vacuum sealer or use the water displacement method (see instructions below) and gently place in sous vide vessel. Make sure the roast is completely submerged throughout the cooking process by using weights or placing plastic wrap over the water. After the 48 hours, remove from water. Open bag and remove roast and marrow bones. Allow roast to cool before slicing. Place cooking liquid from the bag into a saucepan and simmer for 20 minutes, until reduced. Pour the liquid over the sliced roast. Warm through and serve with marrow bones, chopped chives, flaky sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper. The Water-Displacement Method If you don't have a vacuum sealer, you can get the same sous vide effect with a bit of practice. Place the roast, marrow bones, salt, pepper and thyme, if using, into a Ziploc bag. Zip it up, leaving the very edge of the seal open. Then, dip the bag into the water, pressing the air out as you submerge the bag. Seal, leaving the open section out of the water as long as possible, zipping up the last bit just before it hits water level. 18

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My Argentinian mother-in-law makes milanesa, or meat schnitzel using top of the rib. She has the butcher slice it thinly (you can do this at home by freezing the meat to firm it up and using a very sharp knife) and then dredges it in flour, egg and breadcrumbs. Fry until crispy and serve with lemon wedges. -Chanie Apfelbaum w w w.f leishigs.com


TOP 5: FOOD DESTINATIONS

TOP 5: SUKKAH

Gabriel Boxer, aka The Kosher Guru, a travel and restaurant pro, shares his “Top 5” most memorable experiences in a specific category. This month, it’s all about the sukkah.

Long gone are the days of small, corner pop-up sukkahs and being forced to stay home for dinner over the holiday. 2019 brings you spacious, updated, refreshing and artsy sukkahs. These are my top 5:

1

 WALDORF ASTORIA JERUSALEM

 SOHO ASIAN BAR AND GRILL

35

I’m starting in Jerusalem because it is essentially the place to be! Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem is known for having the largest indoor sukkah in the world. Combining convenience and elegance, the sukkah is located inside the hotel’s 4-story lobby atrium under a retractable glass rooftop. The temperature- and weather-controlled sukkah can accommodate more than 200 diners. In case of rain, the glass rooftop closes, allowing guests to continue enjoying their meals surrounded by beautiful decorations.

Florida is always a hot (pun intended) vacation destination. Many go South for the whole week of Sukkos, while others hop on board from Chol Hamoed onward. Soho’s spacious sukkah, in the heart of Aventura, should definitely be on your radar. With fresh sushi and Asian specialties, a variety of steak options and a fully stocked bar, the menu caters to every palate and will leave you feeling satisfied.

Waldorf Astoria Jerusalem | 26-28 Gershon Agron Street, Jerusalem

 WALL STREET GRILL

Soho Asian Grill and Bar | 19004 NE 29th Avenue, Aventura, FL

4 2

 T-FUSION STEAKHOUSE

Nestled in the vibrant Marine Park neighborhood of Brooklyn, T-Fusion Steakhouse serves elegant, unique and seasonal cuisine, especially during the holidays. As the only high-end restaurant in Brooklyn to accommodate a large sukkah, the restaurant has a unique advantage for showcasing its delectable menu in an elegant outdoor setting.

T-Fusion Steakhouse | 3223 Quentin Road, Brooklyn, NY

After its launch earlier this year, posh decor and relaxed fine dining raise Wall Street Grill above and beyond the rest. With a roomy rooftop setting that seats 70-80, the restaurant’s sukkah is expected to offer unmatched views of lower Manhattan to meet an exquisite indoor ambiance.

 IZZY’S FRIED CHICKEN Pitmaster Sruli Eidelman is at it again with his brand new addition to Brooklyn: Izzy’s Fried Chicken. Bringing Southern comfort North, the culinary mastermind will open the doors to his third location over Sukkos. And this isn’t your average fast food joint. Izzy’s Fried Chicken not only has a killer vibe, but it also has a solid outdoor space for a comfortable dine-in experience in Crown Heights. Izzy’s Fried Chicken delivers heart, soul and good ole Southern fried chicken (and many more menu options). Izzy’s Fried Chicken | 262 Kingston Avenue, Brooklyn, NY

Wall Street Grill | 128 Pearl Street, New York, NY

FOLLOW THE KOSHER GURU on Instagram & Facebook @kosherguru, on Twitter @thekosherguru, his blog at www.thekosherguru.com, or subscribe to his YouTube channel. Tune in to “The Nosh” (a kosher foodie and restaurant radio show on 620AM in the NYC area) with Kosher Guru airing every Thursday evenings at 9:30 P.M. You can also check out his popular Facebook group @KosherGuru’sKosherNation. OCTOBER 2019

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BY MIRIAM SCHREIBER

TRAVEL

Travel to

Jew Town, a narrow street between Mattancherry Palace and the Pardesi Synagogue, is famous for its antique shops and colonial buildings.

Y

India

ou know the word association game? When I say India, what comes to mind? Do you think Taj Majal? Bengal Tigers? Spice Trade? Indian food? Crowded marketplaces? Well, they’re all true. However, I bet not too many thought of things like Baghdadi Jews, stunning shuls and rich Jewish history! Our mission at Legacy Kosher Tours is to bring our guests to see God’s amazing world through Jewish eyes and experience the wide range of sites, sounds and foods of these intriguing destinations. By visiting and learning about the various communities that our people have experienced during our 2,000+

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TRAVEL year exile, we gain insight into the world as a whole and our unique Jewish history. And of course, every place we visit has its own culinary history, which becomes a huge part of all of our tours. We always strive to bring along knowledgeable Jewish authorities in Jewish history (i.e. Rabbi Mordechai Becher and Rabbi Yaakov Lehrfield) and culinary (i.e. Naomi Nachman) to truly give guests a fully immersive experience. So why India? India’s rich culture, lush beauty, nature and exotic architecture, combined with the captivating panorama of Torah and Jewish history that is unique to India, makes it one of the most fascinating and memorable destinations. Here, I share some of our experiences to help you make your next trip to India meaningful (and delicious!).

THE PEOPLE

THE PLACES

Jews in India are divided into three distinct groups — the Cochin Jews, the Bene Israel Jews and the Baghdadi Jews.

To begin to understand India’s Jewish history, we recommend touring the Jewish villages near Alibag (south of Mumbai). You’ll find the Magen Aboth Synagogue and the Jewish Cemetery. Here you can also visit the famous site of the Bene Israel shipwreck over 2,000 years ago.

The Cochin Jews, who first arrived in the contemporary state of Kerala, are dated to about 50 CE after the first Temple was destroyed. The Bene Israel Jews formed the largest Jewish group in India and belong to the region in and around Maharashtra and Konkan. Local legend suggests that when the Bene Israel Jews arrived in India, they were shipwrecked on the Konkan coast and only 14 survived. They took refuge in the region that is now Mumbai. By the mid 18th century, the Baghdadi Jews arrived and created a strong entrepreneurial class in the British port cities of India like Calcutta (now known as Kolkata), Bombay (Mumbai) and Rangoon (Yangon). By the mid 19th century, the Baghdadi Jews had risen in wealth and status and established Jewish schools, kosher markets and mikvahs, which are still running to this day.

Other landmarks to consider visiting in mainland Mumbai are the David Sassoon Library and the Magen David Synagogue, built in 1864 by David Sassoon. The Knesset Eliyahoo and Tiphereth Israel synagogues boast magnificent architectural styles taken from different parts of the world. Stop at the revitalized Chabad House in Mumbai, which was the scene of the tragic terrorist attack of 2008, to pay tribute to the souls taken that night, including the Chabad emissaries to Mumbai, Gavriel and Rivka Holtzberg. KOLKATA One of my favorite spots! Enjoy British-era architectural masterpieces as well as the fascinating throngs of people, peddlers, rumbling buses and rickshaws all racing in different directions. In this city of 14 million people, one can’t help but be fascinated by the exotic sights and sounds as you stroll through the colorful

markets that sell everything you could imagine. Most impressive are the shuls. There simply are no words to describe the absolutely stunning Magen David Synagogue of Kolkata, built by Elias David Ezra in memory of his father David Joseph Ezra, whose real estate magnate family was the most influential Jewish family in Kolkata. The shul is maintained to this day. JAIPUR Take time to shop in the beautiful “Pink City of India” nestled in the mountains. Once the hub of royal families, Jaipur is known for its textiles, jewelry and magnificent carpets. Prepare to be awed as you ride up to the ancient citadel of Jaipur rulers, the magnificent Amber Fort. Visit the marketplace in the old city of Jaipur, where you will be mesmerized by the range of various Indian saree, jewelry, silks and cashmere. And there is always a bargain to be found! Visit the extraordinary Jantar Mantar, the astronomical observatory of ancient stone instruments that are actually highly sophisticated and accurate today.

AGRA Visit the awe-inspiring Taj Mahal. 20,000 laborers worked for 23 years to complete this dazzling, magnificent building. And yes, you may encounter a cow or 10, but that is part of the experience! NEW DELHI Ride a pulled rickshaw through narrow alleyways and the busy central streets of Old Delhi, home to 16 million people. It may be bumpy, but it’s an experience nevertheless. KOCHI Kochi, a vibrant city situated in the scenic state of Kerala, was once home to a flourishing Jewish community. Walk along Jew Town Road to the exquisite Paradesi (Foreigners) Synagogue, which is 450 years old. It is known for its hand-painted tiles and quaint Belgian glass chandeliers. Explore the fabulous shops and tantalizing spice markets, the Mattancherry Palace and 2 of the oldest synagogues in Kerala — the Kadavumbhagam Synagogue (hidden behind an aquarium and garden shop) and the Thekkumbhagam Synagogue. Don’t miss the Paravur Synagogue as well, an architectural gem dating from 1616, which is now a museum.

1 Magen David Synagogue, an Orthodox Sephardi synagogue (Byculla, Mumbai) 2 Monuments in Jaipur, the “Pink City” 3 Aerial view of a busy intersection in Old Delhi 4 Agra Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site, at sunrise with a tourist enjoying an elephant ride along the main entrance (Agra, India) 5 Jewish synagogue (Mumbai) 6 Famous Indian road landmark, Metropolitan Building on Chowringhee Road in Kolkata 7 David Sassoon Library (Mumbai) 8 Front view of the Taj Mahal (Agra, India) 9 Paradesi Synagogue(Old Cochin, Kerala)

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RICH


TRAVEL

CULTURE, LUSH BEAUTY, NATURAL WONDERS, EXOTIC ARCHITECTURE, TORAH AND JEWISH HISTORY

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TRAVEL

BY MIRIAM SCHREIBER

Food

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ood is serious business in India and Indian cuisine is one of the most flavorful in the world. Like much of Asian cuisine, it combines sweet, sour, savory and spicy in its many delectable dishes. We were lucky enough to have Naomi Nachman on our recent trip to India and along with some of the hotel’s chefs, we tasted and learned how to prepare some of India’s most famous foods.

MANGO LASSI – A creamy combination of sweet mangoes and tangy yogurt. The perfect cold drink after a long day of touring. CHANA MASALA – Chickpeas in a tomato-based sauce, which is simply delicious served with a side of naan bread. KULFI (INDIAN ICE CREAM) – Kulfi is not whipped, resulting in a solid, dense frozen dessert similar to custard-based ice cream. NAAN BREAD – Naan is similar to pita but is flatter and oftentimes larger. How can you go wrong with fresh bread? Naan is served for dipping or stuffed with a variety of meats and vegetables. SAMOSAS – We couldn’t get enough of these! The deep fried, tightly packed samosas are traditionally made with potatoes, onions, peas, coriander and lentils. They are often served with a mint or tamarind sauce to balance out the warm spices. The ubiquitous samosa, of which there are many varieties in India alone, has become the most popular snack available in India.

Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, left, and Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, in the blue tie, meet with Moshe Holtzberg and his childhood nanny Sandra Samuel in July 2017 at an event at Nariman House in Mumbai, the site of the 2008 terrorist attack that left his parents dead.

CHABAD OF MUMBAI TODAY In November 2008, terrorists stormed Chabad-Lubavitch’s Nariman House in Mumbai and brutally murdered Rabbi Gavriel and Rivka Holtzberg and 4 of their guests. Their 2 year old, Moshe, was saved by his nanny, Sandra Samuel. The Mumbai terrorist attacks left 174 people dead, including 9 gunmen, in a coordinated attack over 4 days. In 2013, Rabbi Yisroel and Chaya Kozlovsky, originally from Israel, became the new permanent directors of Chabad of Mumbai. Today the 5-story Chabad House is once again a vibrant religious and educational center with a memorial museum, mikvah, kosher kitchen and library, as well as catering services and its Kosher Mumbai restaurant. The legacy of the Holtzbergs is carried on today through the many institutions, schools and centers around the world that carry their names, including: • The Gavriel and Rivka Holtzberg Jewish Welcome Center in the Virgin Islands. • Gan Rivka Chabad-Lubavitch preschools in locations including Marin County, California, and Rome. • The Holtzberg Library in Seoul, South Korea, which Chabad of Korea established as the country’s first Jewish library after learning that the Nariman House’s bookshelves were one of the only things not destroyed in the attacks. • Holtzberg Hospitality Home, established by Chabad of the Medical Community and the Chabad student club at Albert Einstein College of Medicine, which provides all patients — regardless of race or religion — with clergy and volunteer visits, kosher food and more. There have also been countless babies born and named Gavriel and Rivka — or Gabi and Rivky, as they were known — which will honor the memories of the brave and beloved couple for generations to come. Travel Info: The Chabad House’s Kosher Mumbai restaurant is open from Sunday to Thursday from 9 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. and Friday from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. The menu includes a variety Israeli and Indian-style meat and vegetarian options. Delivery throughout the city is available. For catering and groups, please email chaya@ chabadindia.org. Visit www.chabadindia.org for more information and to donate.

SPECIAL FOR FLEISHIGS MAGAZINE READERS A UNIQUE COOKBOOK WAS GIVEN OUT ON OUR TRIP WITH ALL THE RECIPES. EMAIL LEGACYKOSHER@AOL.COM FOR AN E-VERSION OF THE COOKBOOK!

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Miriam Schreiber has been organizing premium events, personalized and group luxury tours the world over for more than 35 years. Miriam Schreiber’s Legacy Kosher Tours produces "Exceptional Journeys to Fascinating Destinations." She and her husband, Dr. Gary Schreiber, live in Chicago. She can be reached at Legacykosher@aol.com or at (224) 735-0015 via (call, text, WhatsApp).

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Fall

RECIPES BY CHEF EITAN BERNATH

Indian fest M

any in the kosher world have yet to explore Indian cuisine — but if you love complex spices and flavors, you'll love Indian food. It’s also the perfect food for fall as it is warm, earthy and spicy. We invited Chef Eitan Bernath, a teenage kosher food blogger and YouTuber who absolutely loves Indian food, to share his favorite Indian recipes, which we highly recommend as a non-traditional twist to your Yom Tov table.

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FALL INDIAN FEST

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A UNIQUELY COMPLEX SOUP WITH AN INDIAN SPIN

( recipe on pg. 31)

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CHICKEN TIKKA Serves: 8 Growing up, my mom always brought me and my brother to Indian restaurants. I have been eating Indian food ever since I can remember. I love it because it has so many amazing flavors and textures that Jewish or American cuisines simply do not. Chicken Tikka is traditionally cooked in either a tandoori oven or over hot coals. I recreated this classic in my own kitchen!

2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken breast, cubed 1 cup canned coconut milk 3 teaspoons minced ginger 3 teaspoons crushed garlic ¾ teaspoon cumin powder ¼ teaspoon mace ¼ teaspoon nutmeg ¼ teaspoon green cardamom powder 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon turmeric ½ teaspoon kosher salt 3 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons tomato paste

In a large bowl, combine coconut milk, ginger, garlic, cumin, mace, nutmeg, cardamom, chili powder, turmeric and salt. Add the lemon juice and tomato paste and mix well. Add the cubed chicken; mix to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and marinate in the fridge for 4 hours or overnight. Preheat oven to broil. Remove the chicken from the marinade and thread onto skewers. Broil all sides of chicken, about 4-5 minutes per side, until charred. Serve with basmati rice and chana masala.

Editor’s note: Although not authentic, try this recipe with boneless, skinless chicken thighs for even juicier results. You may need to broil the thighs for a few extra minutes, so keep that in mind.

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FALL INDIAN FEST

QUICK CHANA MASALA Serves: 8 This recipe is a staple in my house and is perfect for busy weeknights, because we always have the ingredients on hand and it comes together in less than 30 minutes. It also makes an incredible vegan option for a Yom Tov or Shabbos meal. Chana masala is a classic Northern Indian dish of chickpeas cooked in a spicy sauce. Every region in India has its own unique version of the dish, with different types of chickpeas and sauces. Although I love the long process of making a traditional Indian dish, this is my quick version inspired by the flavors of authentic recipes. It’s best served with rice and a buttery, Indian flatbread such as naan, roti or paratha.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds ½ teaspoon whole black mustard seeds 1 large onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon turmeric 2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 teaspoon chili powder 1 teaspoon coriander powder 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper ¼ cup tomato paste 1 tablespoon honey 1 cup fresh spinach, roughly chopped 2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained ½ cup canned coconut milk 1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped

In a large pot, heat the oil over medium heat. Add in the cumin and mustard seeds and stir for 1 minute, until fragrant. Add in the onion and garlic. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring continuously, until the onions begin to caramelize. Add in the turmeric, cumin, chili powder, coriander, salt and pepper; stir continuously for 1 minute. Add tomato paste and honey and cook for 1 minute. Add in the spinach and cook for another minute until wilted. Add the chickpeas and cook for another 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the coconut milk and simmer for 5 minutes. Serve hot, topped with cilantro and a side of roti.

Eitan is a 17-year-old food blogger, YouTube sensation, food photographer, recipe developer and passionate entrepreneur. He is all about international — and often exotic — comfort food. When he was 11 years old, he competed on “Chopped” on the Food Network and that jump-started his career. It also inspired the start of his blog and food photography. Eitan has since competed on Food Network’s “Guy’s Grocery Games” and was featured by Instagram to their 312 million followers. You can follow his daily adventures @chefeitanbernath on Instagram or visit his site www.eitanbernath.com.

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INDIAN-STYLE TOMATO SOUP Serves: 8

ROTI Makes: 8 roti Roti is a super simple flatbread that pairs perfectly with any curry or piping-hot potato masala. I am such a fan of roti that I even have all the traditional rolling boards, rolling pins and pans! I have so many that I need to store them under my bed. Because everyone keeps Indian pots and pans under their beds, right? 3 cups whole wheat flour, double sifted 1 teaspoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 cup water In a large bowl, mix together the flour and salt. Add in the oil and continue mixing. Slowly add in the water, while mixing, until a soft ball of dough forms. Knead the dough for 2-3 minutes; cover and let rest for 10 minutes. Grab a ball of dough (about 1-inch in diameter) and roll out on a lightly floured surface into an 8-inch diameter flatbread. Cook in a dry pan over a high flame, 1-2 minutes per side. Serve immediately.

A uniquely complex tomato soup with an Indian spin, this dish can be served with rice or even cooked down as a wonderful gravy. 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided 1 teaspoon cumin seeds 1 small onion, diced 3 garlic cloves, minced 2 tablespoons tomato paste 4 plum tomatoes, diced 2 teaspoons all-purpose flour 1½ cups water 2 slices of bread, cut into 1-inch cubes ¼ cup unsweetened non-dairy milk or creamer ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, to taste ¼ teaspoon kosher salt, to taste 1 tablespoon sugar, to taste In a large pot, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over medium heat. Add the cumin seeds and sauté for 30-45 seconds, until aromatic. Add the onion and garlic to the pot and cook for 3-4 minutes, until translucent. Add the tomato paste and sauté for another minute. Add the plum tomatoes and cook over a medium flame for 5-10 minutes, until they break down. Transfer the tomato mixture to a blender and allow to cool for 5 minutes before puréeing into a smooth soup. Meanwhile, make a roux: Add 1 tablespoon of oil and the flour into the pot and cook over a low flame, stirring continuously for 1 minute, until it starts to deepen in color. Add the puréed tomato mixture back into the pot. Add the water and continue cooking for 10-15 minutes, until slightly thickened. In a large frying pan, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over a medium flame. Place the cubed bread in the pan and brown on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside. Season the soup with salt, pepper and sugar. Add the non-dairy milk or creamer into the pot and stir until fully combined. Serve the soup hot, topped with a drizzle of non-dairy creamer and homemade croutons.

MANGO CHUTNEY Makes: 2 cups The perfect sweet and tangy condiment. 5 just-ripe mangoes, peeled and cubed 1 cinnamon stick 4 whole cloves ¾ teaspoon cumin seeds ¾ teaspoon coriander seeds 6 cardamom pods, cracked 2 cups water 1 teaspoon grated ginger 1 clove garlic, crushed ½ cup distilled white vinegar 1 whole dried red chili, optional 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 cups brown sugar or to taste Place the mango, cinnamon, cloves, cumin, coriander, cardamom, water, ginger and garlic in a pot on the stovetop. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 10 minutes. Add the vinegar, dried red chili, salt and brown sugar. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the chutney is thickened, about 30-40 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cinnamon stick, cardamom and cloves. Transfer the mango chutney to a glass jar while it’s still hot. Let cool, then refrigerate for up to 4 weeks.

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Del Campo Pulled Beef Tacos - Serves 8 You will need:

• Chuck stew meat -4 lbs. cut into chunks. • Olive oil - 2 tablespoons • Salt - 1 tsp or to taste • Del Campo Garlic Pepper - 1 tsp • Del Campo Adobo Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Fajita Spice - 1 tsp • Del Campo Chili Powder - 1 Tbsp • Garlic - 4 cloves fresh, chopped • Onion - fresh, chopped • Tomato sauce - 2 cups • Barbecue sauce - 1 cup • DELCAMPO GOURMET MINI TACO SHELLS - 24 shells

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 325 degrees. 2. Heat oil in large frying pan . 3. Add meat to hot oil a few chunks at a time, and brown on all sides. 4. Remove browned chunks to a large, oven-safe casserole. Continue browning until all chunks are used. 5. Sprinkle salt and pepper on beef chunks. 6. Add all remaining Ingredients. 7. Cover casserole tightly, place in hot oven.

8. Bake until the meat is "fall-apart" and can be pulled apart easily with 2 forks. (Approx 2 ½ hours) 9. Stir shredded meat into sauce until well blended. 10. Fill taco shells with approximately 2 Tbsp meat. 11. Top with shredded lettuce. Leftover meat can be refrigerated or frozen. Expect people to ask for seconds and thirds!

Del Campo Tortilla Co. • Lakewood, NJ • Phone: 732.994.5500 • Email: taco2us@gmail.com Web: www.delcampotortillas.com • Instagram: delcampotortillas


TRADITION

Gefilte Fish BY SHIFRA KLEIN

W

hat is the best way to cook gefilte fish? This Ashkenazic specialty is definitely an acquired taste, but if you grew up with it at your table, it probably still remains a Shabbos staple. We tried almost every technique possible with various types of gefilte rolls. In our final round of testing, we used one brand of gefilte — A&B — in order to keep things consistent.

The truth is, there are some who prefer gefilte fish on the drier, firmer side and some who prefer it more moist. The oven methods definitely resulted in a firmer finished product, while stovetop and pressure cooking methods resulted in a loaf that was more “wet.”

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Instant Pot

Baked, Uncovered

Oven-Baked, Covered

Baked with Breadcrumbs

Sous Vide STOVETOP

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TRADITION

Stovetop Sous vide

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(CHEF ISAAC BERNSTEIN'S METHOD) Time & temperature: Set sous vide cooker to 180°F for 90 minutes. Place a roll of gefilte fish in its paper wrapper in a freezer-safe Ziploc bag and place in water bath. Results: The sous vide method preserved the exact shape of the original roll more than any other technique. The flavor of this method was the most classic, and the texture was spot on, without being dry at all. It was exactly what you’d expect from poached fish.

Instant Pot

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Time & temperature: Place a roll of gefilte fish in its paper wrapper in the Instant Pot with 3 cups water, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, freshly cracked black pepper and 2 tablespoons sugar. Cook at high pressure for 25 minutes. Results: We were doubtful whether this method would work; I actually thought the fish would “explode” out of its wrapper. However, it maintained its shape and the taste and texture were perfect. My family’s favorite method from the batch.

Time & temperature: This is the most classic preparation. We simmered a roll of gefilte fish in its paper wrapper in boiling water with 2 tablespoons sugar, freshly cracked black pepper and 1 teaspoon salt for 90 minutes; make sure to crack the lid of the pot to allow some steam to escape. Results: Classic gefilte fish taste with a wet texture.

Baking with water, covered

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Time & temperature: Place wrapped gefilte fish in loaf pan and fill with 2-3 cups water and seasoning. We recommend 1 teaspoon kosher salt, ½ teaspoon black pepper and 2 tablespoons sugar. Bake at 375°F for 90 minutes. Results: The ideal cross between a wet and dry texture. Tasted wonderful.

Baking without water, uncovered

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Time & temperature: Remove fish from its paper wrapper and place in a greased loaf pan. Bake at 375°F for 75 minutes. Results: This was our favorite. Baking uncovered without water yielded a firm interior and a slightly crunchy exterior.

Baking with mayonnaise and breadcrumbs, uncovered

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GUEST EDITOR CHANIE APFELBAUM SHARED THIS TRIED-AND-TRUE, FAMILYFRIENDLY GEFILTE FISH RECIPE AND THE FEEDBACK HAS BEEN ASTOUNDING. Time & temperature: Remove fish from its paper wrapper and place in a greased loaf pan. Brush fish with 2 tablespoons mayonnaise and sprinkle with ¼ cup flavored breadcrumbs. Bake at 375°F for 75 minutes. Results: The mayonnaise kept the gefilte fish moist, and the breadcrumbs added a really nice crunch. A great version for those who like the drier texture of gefilte fish.

NOTE:

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Gefilte fish loaves come frozen, typically with an inner paper wrapper and an outer, plastic wrapper. Always remove the plastic wrapper before cooking. For all of these methods, we prepared the gefilte loaf straight from the freezer.

I have a passion for reinventing traditional Jewish foods and gefilte fish is up there as one of my favorite foods to mash-up! I've always loved Shifra's gefilte fish crab cakes from “vintage” Bitayavon magazine and check out my recipes for Gefilte Fish Pizza and Morrocan Gefilte Fish Patties in my cookbook, Millennial Kosher. OCTOBER 2019

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Traditional sweet food. -

M AY YOU R CO MIN G Y E A R BE R IC H & RE WA R D IN G.


h Perfec t i

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 I started my challah business in 2013 and after the first few months, I began to challenge myself to come up with ideas for new and fun ways to top, stuff or braid my challahs. About 3 years ago, I noticed the “pretzel” trend starting to explode. Suddenly, pretzel rolls, buns and even pretzel bites were available on grocery shelves and pretzel bread recipes were abundant online.

This launched my mission to find a way to make a version of pretzel dough that maintained a braided look and still tasted good. After all, part of the appeal of a challah, aside from the taste, is that beautiful braid, especially if you’re buying it from someone else. Then I thought, I should use my own challah recipe and simply follow the “pretzel-ing” technique to create my own unique version — and it worked!

The pretzel flavor is unique, unmatched and highly coveted on the modern Shabbos table. I tested out a recipe by Alton Brown (my all-time favorite food scientist, TV personality and recipe developer) for traditional soft pretzels that contained no egg and just a pinch of sugar. They were delicious, but the dough was sticky and didn’t hold its shape all that well once boiled, which didn’t bode well for braiding into challah.

Over the past few years, I’ve tweaked my process, turning traditional egg challah into the pretzel challah of my — and hopefully your — dreams. It’s currently the most requested challah in my rotation and the fad doesn’t seem to be slowing down. Here’s how I turn a Shabbos staple into pretzel perfection.

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CULINARY SCHOOL

What you’ll need: 1 batch of challah dough 1 shallow, wide-mouthed pot 2 large slotted spoons or spatulas 1 sheet pan 1 cooling rack Non-stick cooking spray Egg wash (1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon water)

Kitchen towels Parchment paper Plastic wrap Pastry brush 1 cup baking soda Coarse pretzel salt or sea salt

Prepare your favorite challah recipe and portion out your dough into 1½-pound balls, reserving a small piece (about 1 ounce) to use in making your pretzel solution. Place dough balls onto a greased cookie sheet and spray tops with cooking spray. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and top with a clean kitchen towel. Allow to rise until doubled in size, approximately 2 hours. Braid challahs as desired and place in greased oval challah pans. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise for an additional 45 minutes. While challah is rising, prepare your pretzel solution. Place 14 cups of water and 1 cup of baking soda into your pot. Cover and bring to a gentle boil. Place the small piece of reserved dough into the baking soda solution and allow to boil for about 10 minutes, uncovered. This will help darken your boiling solution and give your challahs that beautiful, deep brown pretzel color. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper, set a cooling rack over it and place next to your pot of water. Spray the rack with cooking spray. Preheat oven to 350°F (use convection if your oven has that setting). Gently turn out one of the braided challahs and carefully place it bottom side down into the boiling solution. After about 15 seconds, use your spatula or slotted spoon to gently flip the challah. Boil 30-40 seconds longer, then carefully flip back over. Using the 2 large spatulas or spoons, lift challah out of the water and place on your cooling rack. Allow challah to drain and cool for about 2 minutes. Repeat with remaining prepared challah dough. Be sure to adjust heat as needed so your pot doesn’t boil over. Spray challah pans once more very thoroughly with cooking spray to prevent sticking. Gently transfer your challahs back into the baking pans and brush each one with a little more pretzel solution from the pot. Next, brush each challah with a little egg wash and sprinkle with coarse pretzel salt or sea salt. Bake for about 35-45 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until they are a deep bronze color. Serve challahs warm with Horseradish Honey Mustard (recipe on page 42) or your favorite dip. Be sure to reserve some extra pretzel solution for Pretzel Wrapped Sausages (pg. 40), the perfect holiday appetizer!

Pretzel Challah Notes: Use your favorite challah recipe — a heavier and less sticky dough will be easier to work with and hold its shape better. Use a pot that is at least 12 inches wide and approximately 5 inches deep. Don't be alarmed if the pretzel solution causes a mess on your stovetop or counters. It wipes clean. 38

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“Bacon” Honey Crumb Topping The balance of the sweet and savory flavors in this topping is simply perfect for the holidays. The trick is to use granulated honey (see notes) for a flavor unlike anything else. 1 package kosher beef bacon, lamb bacon or beef fry 2½ cups all-purpose flour 1 cup sugar 1¼ cups granulated honey (see notes) 1 teaspoon kosher salt 2 sticks non-dairy margarine or Betterine, cut into small pieces Honey, for drizzling (optional)

Cook bacon in a large skillet over medium heat until crisp and fat is rendered. In a large bowl, combine flour, sugar, granulated honey and salt. Using your fingers, crumble the margarine into the flour mixture and mix until it forms fine crumbs. Toss the bacon into mixture and top your challah with the crumbs before baking. For an extra boost of sweet honey flavor, drizzle a little honey over the top of the crumbs before placing into the oven.

Crumb Topping Notes: Find granulated honey on Beanilla.com (KSA kosher), or look for Badia brand (OU) and D’allesandro brand (Kof-K) on Amazon.com. If you can’t get your hands on granulated honey, you can use regular sugar. When adding the crumb mixture to your challah, add 5-7 minutes to the baking time to ensure it’s baked through. Store extra crumbs in the freezer for up to 3 months. We used Meal Mart Beef Fry, available nationally.

The only thing better than fresh pretzel challah is using the leftovers for a deli sandwich during the week! I mix any kind of jam with spicy mustard, whole grain mustard and honey for the perfect shmear. -Chanie Apfelbaum

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CULINARY SCHOOL

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7) Using a small paring knife, make small cuts about ¾ of the way through the sausages, leaving a 1-inch gap between each cut (be careful not to cut through the parchment).

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Pull-Apart Pretzel-Wrapped Sausage Ring

Approximately 1 pound prepared challah dough or store-bought pizza dough 7 sausage links Non-stick cooking spray Egg wash (1 egg yolk mixed with 1 tablespoon water) Coarse pretzel salt, sea salt or everything bagel seasoning 1 10-inch round metal cake pan or springform pan Parchment paper Rolling pin Paring knife Pastry brush Kitchen towel Reserved pretzel solution

S

1) Preheat oven to 375°F. Make sure you have a large, clean surface to work on with at least 3 feet of clear space. Spray your cake pan with cooking spray. Cut a square of parchment paper that is big enough to fit inside your pan and cover the sides. Do not place the parchment inside the pan yet. 2) Cut the challah dough or store-bought pizza dough in half. 3) Using a rolling pin, roll out half the dough into a long, thin strand, about 3-4 inches wide and 2 feet long (this is approximate, do not worry about being exact). 4) Pat sausages dry and place 4 sausages end-toend lengthwise along one edge of the dough. 5) Roll dough around the sausages until they are fully enclosed inside the dough. Pinch the edges closed and cut off any excess (you can set the extra aside for another use). 6) Place your rope of wrapped sausages seam side down on top of the parchment paper on your work surface (the sausage rope will be larger than your parchment).

8) Form a circle on top of the parchment with the cut sausages so that the cut side fans out. The circle should be large enough to fit inside your cake pan all the way to the edge. If it is too large, cut off any excess pieces (they can always be baked separately). 9) Set parchment aside and repeat steps 2-7 with the second piece of dough, using the remaining 3 sausages. If you have extra dough, set it aside for another use. 10) Place the second circle inside the first circle to make 2 layers of sausages. 11) Lift the parchment and gently place your sausage ring inside your prepared pan. Put a small ramekin in the middle of the sausage ring to hold the space in the center. 12) Cover your pan with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise in a warm spot in your kitchen for 20-30 minutes. 13) Using a pastry brush, generously brush the top of the sausage ring with your reserved pretzel solution. Apply 2 coats to ensure it’s fully covered. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with coarse salt or your favorite savory topping. 14) Bake for 30-40 minutes, until dough is cooked through and is a deep golden brown. 15) Using the edges of the parchment paper, carefully lift your sausage pretzel ring out of the pan. Serve while hot with Horseradish Honey Mustard in the ramekin in the center. Alternate shaping method: Cut sausages into 1-inch pieces and cut challah dough into an equal number of pieces. Flatten dough pieces into circles and wrap them around each sausage. Place in circular fashion in your parchment-lined pan around the ramekin in the center to form pull-apart sausage pretzel bites. Then, follow steps 12-15.

Notes: We used Meal Mart Steak Sausages in this recipe. Don’t spray the ramekin, as this will make the dough climb up the sides as it rises and bakes. 40

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Kayla Kaye is a home cook, challah baker, food writer and recipe developer living in Oceanside, NY. She began her challah business, The Kitch NY, in 2013, baking and selling gourmet challahs from her home kitchen. She also shares her challah adventures, kitchen tips and original recipes on Instagram and offers private challah classes and demos. You can find her on Instagram at @thekitch_ny, on Facebook or via email at thekitch.ny@gmail.com.

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The Round Basket Weave

1) Cut prepared challah dough into 4 equal parts. Using your palms, roll out each piece into 4 long strands equal in size.

S

2) Place 2 strands vertically on your work surface. Place the other 2 strands centered horizontally on top of the first 2, weaving 1 over then under the vertical strands and the other under then over. It should look like a hashtag (#). This is the start of your basket weave. You’ll now have 4 “sides,” each with 2 challah strands. 3) Starting on the side closest to you, cross one strand over the other from left to right in a circular fashion until you’ve criss-crossed all 4 sides one time. Your strands will have changed positions, but you will still have 4 “sides.” 4) Now, moving in the opposite direction, cross one strand over the other on each side until you’ve once again criss-crossed all 4 sides. Continue until your strands are too short to criss-cross. 5) Tuck each of the 4 ends underneath the center and you will have a round “basket-weave” challah. 6) Place in a prepared round baking pan to rise. This method can be used to make your round holiday challahs and even small challah rolls.

Horseradish Honey Mustard Makes: 1 ¼ cup ¼ cup honey or maple syrup ¼ cup jarred white horseradish ¾ cup whole-grain mustard

Combine all ingredients together in a small bowl.

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SI G N S O F TH E TI M ES BY C H

AN

IE

AP

FE

LB AU M


SIMANIM

“Abaye said: Now that you said that an omen is a significant matter, a person should always be accustomed to seeing these on Rosh Hashanah: squash, fenugreek, leeks, chard and dates, as each of these grows quickly and serves as a positive omen for one’s actions during the coming year." ( Ta l m u d B a v l i , H o r a y o t 1 2 a )

J

ewish life abounds with tradition and symbolism. From life-cycle events to holidays, our rituals help define our identity and pass the torch of our heritage on to future generations. Food especially carries an important role in Jewish culture. Although bagels and lox, matzah ball soup and pastrami on rye make for great Instagram content, it's the traditional dishes eaten during the holidays that hold so much meaning. From the 2 loaves of bread eaten on Shabbat to remember the double portion of “manna” that fell during the Israelites’ 40 years in the desert, to charoset, the sweet Passover dip that's reminiscent of the mortar made by the Jews during their slavery in Egypt. There's the ever popular hamantaschen, symbolizing Haman's 3-cornered hat at Purim and of course latkes and donuts at Hanukkah fried in oil — an ode to the miracle of the small flask of oil that burned in the Temple for 8 days. But above all is Rosh Hashanah, literally the “head of the year.” Our sages teach that just as the head controls the body, our actions on Rosh Hashanah have a tremendous impact on the rest of the year — and that all begins around the holiday table. The challah eaten during the High Holidays is traditionally round, symbolizing the eternal cycle of life. It is dipped in honey, to symbolize the hope for a sweet New Year.

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Some people avoid eating nuts during the 10 Days of Awe between Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur since, according to Jewish mysticism, the Hebrew word for nut (“egoz”) has the same numerical value as the Hebrew word for sin (“cheit”). Many people avoid eating sour foods such as vinegar and bitter foods such as horseradish in order to focus on being blessed with a sweet year. The custom of holding a Rosh Hashanah seder, in which a series of symbolic foods called “simanim” are eaten before the meal, is a common practice in Sephardic households. I experienced this tradition firsthand soon after I was married, when I attended a Rosh Hashanah dinner hosted by my sister-in-law, Rebbetzin Esther Srugo of Chabad of Bonita, California. The table was set with a variety of dishes, including candied butternut squash, sautėed green beans, beet salad and more. A different blessing was recited over each symbolic food. In recent years, many Ashkenazic families have adopted the traditional seder and eating simanim has become somewhat of a trend. Whether you eat traditional Rosh Hashanah seder foods or just serve up some puns (e.g., raisins and celery so you can have a “raise in salary”), the important thing is that no matter how you choose to celebrate, we should all be inscribed for a sweet New Year!

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SIMANIM

Simanim and their blessings: DATES

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that there comes an end to our enemies, haters and those who wish evil upon us.

SMALL, LIGHTCOLORED BEANS

(black eyed peas or green beans) May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that our merits shall increase and that You hearten us.

LEEK

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that our enemies, haters and those who wish evil upon us shall be cut down.

BEETS

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that our enemies, haters and those who wish evil upon us shall depart.

GOURD

(any type of squash) May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that the evil of our verdicts be ripped and that our merits be announced before you.

POMEGRANATE

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that we be filled with mitzvot like a pomegranate [is filled with seeds].

APPLES AND HONEY

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that You renew for us a year good and sweet like honey.

SIMANIM TARTARE

RAM/FISH HEAD

May it be Your will, Lord our G-d and the G-d of our fathers, that we be a head and not a tail.

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SIMANIM

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SIMANIM STUFFED EGGPLANT with Black Eyed Pea Hummus

RICE WINE VS. RICE VINEGAR Although both rice wine and rice vinegar (also called rice wine vinegar) are made from fermented rice, they couldn’t be more different. Whereas rice wine is sweet and often used in marinades and sauces to add depth of flavor, rice vinegar is the acetic acid sister

to rice wine. A mild, slightly sweet vinegar, unseasoned rice vinegar is often used to add brightness to dressings and dipping sauces. Seasoned rice vinegar, on the other hand, has added sugar and salt and is most often used to season sushi rice.

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SIMANIM SALAD

with Pomegranate Molasses Dressing

Serves: 8 1 small butternut squash Canola oil for frying Kosher salt, to taste 8 cups kale, packed ⅓ cup pomegranate seeds 1 Granny Smith apple, julienned 1 carrot, peeled and julienned 4 medjool dates, pitted and sliced into thin strips

Pomegranate Molasses Dressing Makes: ¾ cup ¼ cup grapeseed or light olive oil 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice ½ teaspoon sumac 2 tablespoons honey 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 50

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Using a vegetable peeler, peel the butternut squash into long, thin strips (discard outer peel). Heat a few inches of oil in a skillet or Dutch oven. Add a handful of butternut squash strips to the oil and fry until they start to brown and crisp up. Remove with a wire skimmer and drain on a baking sheet lined with paper towels. Season with salt. Repeat with remaining strips. Combine the dressing ingredients in a bowl and whisk until thick and creamy.

Before serving, place the kale in a large mixing bowl and add about ¾ of the dressing. While wearing gloves, massage the dressing into the kale leaves with your hands. Transfer the kale to a serving platter or bowl and add the pomegranate seeds, apples, carrots and dates. Stir in the remaining dressing. Top with butternut squash chips right before serving. NOTE: To make the dates easier to dice, freeze until solid.

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SIMANIM STUFFED EGGPLANT

with Black Eyed Pea Hummus Serves: 8 For eggplant: 8 baby eggplants ¼ cup grapeseed oil For beets: 2 medium red beets, greens removed To serve: 1 cup pomegranate seeds ½ cup prepared tahini ⅓ cup silan 1 lemon, freshly squeezed Kosher salt, to taste Fresh parsley, for garnish

To prepare the eggplant: With the oven rack in the highest position, preheat broiler to high. Place the eggplants on a baking sheet and brush with grapeseed oil on all sides. Poke each eggplant with a fork in a few spots. Broil the eggplants for 5-8 minutes on each side, until the skin is charred and the flesh is soft. Remove from the oven, cool for 5 to 10 minutes and gently remove the charred skin, leaving the eggplant stem intact. To prepare the beets: Preheat oven to 400°F. Wash beets well and wrap individually in foil. Place in a baking dish and roast for 45-60 minutes, until tender when pierced with a fork. Leave beets to cool slightly, then unwrap the foil and remove the peel (make sure to wear gloves); it should slide off easily. Dice the beets small. To serve: To plate, place ¼ cup of black eyed pea hummus in the center of a small plate. Swirl the hummus with a spoon to form a bed. Place the eggplant in the center of the hummus, squeeze some lemon juice over it and season with salt. Top with beets and pomegranate seeds and drizzle with tahini and silan. Garnish with parsley and serve.

Black Eyed Pea Hummus Makes: 2 cups 1 clove garlic ¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice 1 teaspoon kosher salt ½ teaspoon cumin ½ cup good-quality raw tahini paste, stir if separated ½ cup ice cold water 1 (15-ounce) can black eyed peas, rinsed and drained Add garlic, lemon juice, salt, cumin and tahini to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the S-shaped blade and purée until smooth. Then, pour water into the feed tube and purée until creamy. Add black eyed peas and continue puréeing until very smooth.

SIMANIM TARTARE Serves: 6 1 pound sushi-grade tuna, finely diced 1 heaping tablespoon finely diced leek (white parts only) 1 tablespoon minced jalapeño ¼ cup pomegranate seeds 1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil 2 teaspoons unseasoned rice vinegar (see note page 49) 2 tablespoons soy sauce 2 tablespoons silan (date syrup) ¼ teaspoon lime zest 2 teaspoons toasted black and white sesame seeds Kosher salt, to taste 1 medium chioggia beet, thinly sliced Beet microgreens, for garnish

In a medium bowl, combine the tuna, leeks, jalapeño, pomegranate seeds, sesame oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, silan, lime zest and sesame seeds. Mix the ingredients well and season with salt to taste. In the center of a large plate, layer the beet slices in a circular pattern, overlapping slightly. Place a ring mold in the center of the plate and fill with the tartare. Carefully remove the ring mold and garnish with beet microgreens.

 To make the tuna easier to dice, place it in the freezer for 30-60 minutes before using.  You can prepare all of the ingredients for this dish in advance and then combine up to 30 minutes before serving.  For precise slices, use a mandoline to thinly slice beets.

Chanie Apfelbaum is a celebrated food blogger, recipe developer, cookbook author and food photographer. With 5 little ones in tow, she shares her love of food, family and tradition to more than 60,000 Instagram followers worldwide (@busyinbrooklyn) and on her blog www.busyinbrooklyn. com. Chanie has been featured in The Wall Street Journal, The New York Times, The Huffington Post, News12Brooklyn, NY1, The Meredith Vieira Show, Thrillist and more. She was named 2018 Best Jew-ish Chef in the Forward Food Choice Awards. Her debut cookbook, Millenial Kosher, was released by Artscroll in 2018. OCTOBER 2019

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SEASONAL

SUKKOS POTLUCK BY SHIFRA KLEIN

IMAGINE a meal involving some of the best food minds in the kosher world. That is exactly what happened when food writers from Fleishigs Magazine and Whisk (Ami Magazine’s weekly food supplement) gathered together mid-summer to take part in an unforgettable Sukkos-inspired feast. Fueled by a shared passion for good food and spreading the love, this potluck-style dinner that took place at Fleishigs headquarters in Cedarhurst, NY was truly a special evening filled with excellent food, company and camaraderie.

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A

potluck is one of the more adventurous ways to simultaneously ease the burden of cooking large Yom Tov or Shabbos meals and try some new food in the company of good friends. We urge you to get in on this trend; it checks off so many boxes in today's world of non-stop hustling. The best way to make a seamless potluck experience is to learn from ours (yes, it took just a bit of planning and coordinating to get everyone in the same room). Start by dividing the dinner into a few courses. Use popular mealplanning apps such as Meal Train or SignUpGenius, or put together a simple spreadsheet. Begin with the essentials — fish, salads, soups and entrées — or expand to include cocktails, wine, appetizers, entrées, side dishes and dessert. Have a large group or some friends who don’t love to cook? Ask guests to bring non-alcoholic drinks and paper goods as well.

For the main course, we savored Shifra’s Middle Eastern, baharat-spiced brisket with pumpkin seed gremolata, which completely elevated the classic brisket. Adina Schlass (@the_chefs_wife_) served up a gourmet sous vide duck breast over a creamy root vegetable purėe and farro risotto, topped with crisp apples. The first of several side dishes was prepared by Chef Isaac Bernstein (@chefisaacb), a legendary food consultant and chef who is one of the leading experts in kosher food today. Chef Bernstein served up his version of kasha varnishkes, which blew everyone away. Next up, husband and wife duo Yossi and Malky Levine (@foodiebliss_yossi) shared a crowd pleasing side, their take on the sweet potato fritters from Mike’s Bistro in NYC. Their addition of scallions took the

POWER OF UNITY AND GREAT MINDS COMING TOGETHER The “Fleishigs x Whisk Potluck” started with a warm drink, a perfectly balanced salad made by Fleishigs Editor-in-Chief Shifra Klein and freshly baked pretzel challah made by baking pro Kayla Kaye (@thekitch_ny). The fish course was a total win with Sarah Lasry’s (@sarah_lasry) sweet and spicy one-pan salmon, fingerling potatoes and asparagus, as well as an updated version of Naomi Nachman’s (@naominachman) miso salmon (one of the most popular recipes from her book Perfect Flavors) prepared using Chilean sea bass and tahini in place of miso. Then, we showcased 2 hearty soups: a new take on a classic squash soup by Fleishigs editor Elisheva Taitz (@thatswhatshemade) and a creamy, roasted chestnut-mushroom soup by Yossi and Sara Goldstein (@tomatoes_tomahtos).

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dish to another level. The dinner ended on a high note with Celebrate cookbook author Elizabeth Kurtz’s (@gourmetkosher) warm, caramel apple blondies and Shifra’s cool, blueberry crumble ice cream (another menu item inspired by NYC’s Mike’s Bistro). Throughout the meal, wines to complement the dishes were served by expert Gabriel Geller (@kosherwine_gg), who shared that this was one of the best meals he’s ever had. The meal was served familystyle, like any Sukkos spread would be, making this “potluck” between industry friends a perfect example of the power of unity and great minds coming together to create an unforgettable experience.

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SEASONAL

Be sure to check out Ami's Whisk Sukkos edition for the rest of the recipes from this fabulous collaboration.

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SEASONAL

CINNAMON HERB TEA (see pg. 62) Fresh herbs, cinnamon stick and honey.

SEASONAL SALAD (see pg. 61) A perfect combination of arugula, apples, shaved celery, pepitas, pomegranate seeds and a sweet pumpkin spice vinaigrette. CARMEL APPELLATION ROSĖ 2018

PRETZEL CHALLAH (see pg. 38) Incomparable texture, flavor and color makes this challah a true centerpiece.

MENU ROASTED CHESTNUT AND MUSHROOM SOUP

FLECHAS DE LOS ANDES GRAN MALBEC

(see pg. 61) A warm soup with nutty flavors and creamy texture.

2017

EAGLES LANDING PINOT NOIR EDNA

(see pg. 61) Served with roasted fingerling potatoes and asparagus.

(see pg. 62) Served with root vegetable cream, farro risotto and shaved apples.

ROASTED SPICED SQUASH SOUP

NETOFA TEL QASSER RED 2017

(published in Ami Sukkos Edition) A celebration of butternut, kabocha and delicata squashes — it’s fall on a plate. DOMAINES LES MARRONNIERS CHABLIS

SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES (see pg. 80) The perfect family-friendly side dish. KOENIG PINOT GRIS 2018

HERZOG LINEAGE MOMENTUS NV

KASHA VARNISHKAS 2.0

TAHINI CHILEAN SEA BASS

(published in Ami Sukkos Edition)

(published in Ami Sukkos Edition) Roasted to perfection and served with a rich tahini sauce.

Roasted garlic and sautéed kale update the classic.

VITKIN GRENACHE BLANC 2017

CRISPY DUCK BREAST

VALLEY 2016

2017

HONEY-CHILI SALMON

BEEF BACON GREEN BEANS (published in Ami Sukkos Edition) Roasted and tossed with balsamiccaramelized onions.

SHILOH PRIVILEGE 2017

SILAN-BAHARAT BRISKET (published in Ami Sukkos Edition) An update on the classic sweet and tangy brisket — Israeli style. YATIR MT. AMASA RED 2014

SALTED CARAMEL APPLE BLONDIES (see pg. 64) Blondies meet apple crisp. CHATEAU PIADA SAUTERNES 2016

BLUEBERRY CRUMBLE ICE CREAM (published in Ami Sukkos Edition) Blueberry coulis, shortbread crumble, vanilla ice cream. ZION FORTISSIMO 2013

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Have a sweet & healthy new year

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SEASONAL

Seasonal Salad RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN

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SEASONAL

Honey-Chili Salmon RECIPE BY SARAH LASRY

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SEASONAL

Roasted Chestnut and Mushroom Soup This soup has a nutty taste with a creamy texture and is perfect for warming up in the Sukkah. I find that packaged roasted chestnuts do the trick, especially if you can’t yet find freshly roasted ones.

The squash soup pictured here, by Elisheva Taitz, will be featured in Ami's Whisk Sukkos edition. The recipe will also be shared exclusively to our subscription email list.

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SEASONAL

RECIPE BY SARA GOLDSTEIN

Serves: 4-6 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and thinly sliced 1 pound assorted fresh mushrooms, sliced 1 (6-ounce) package peeled and roasted chestnuts (such as Gefen or Galil) 4 cups vegetable stock, plus more as needed Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste ½ cup unsweetened full-fat canned coconut milk or coconut cream (not cream of coconut, which is sweetened) Truffle oil and microgreens for garnish, optional Heat oil in a large soup pot over medium-low heat. Sauté the leeks for 3-4 minutes, until they soften and start to brown. Add the mushrooms and cook until browned. Remove ¼ cup of the mushrooms and set aside for garnish. Add the chestnuts, enough stock to just cover the vegetables, salt and pepper and bring the soup to a boil. Lower the flame and cook for approximately 45 minutes, until the chestnuts are tender. Remove the soup from the flame and let cool slightly. Blend the soup using an immersion blender or high-powered blender, then add in the coconut milk or cream. Blend again and season to taste. If the soup is too thick for your liking, you may also add in more stock at this point. Pour the soup into bowls and garnish with sautéed mushrooms, truffle oil and microgreens.

Honey-Chili Salmon

RECIPE BY SARAH LASRY Serves: 8 The perfect one-pan fish dinner that is both family-friendly and crowd pleasing. 3-4 pounds fresh salmon, skin on (or individual fillets of 6-8 ounces each) ¼ cup honey 1 tablespoon soy sauce 1 tablespoon chili sauce (you can use Sriracha for an extra kick) 1 lemon, juiced and then sliced 5 cloves garlic, minced Freshly chopped parsley or cilantro, plus more for garnish 1 pound baby fingerling potatoes, halved 1 bunch asparagus, stems cut off 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 teaspoon garlic powder Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Preheat the oven to 375°F. On a baking sheet that has been sprayed with non-stick cooking spray, lay out the salmon skin side down. Season with a bit of salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the honey, soy sauce, chili sauce, lemon juice and garlic. Pour the sauce over the salmon and top with chopped herbs. In a bowl, toss the potatoes and asparagus with olive oil, garlic powder, salt and pepper. Then lay them flat onto the baking sheet around the salmon. Cover loosely with foil and bake for about 35 minutes. Then, uncover and cook for another 15-20 minutes until there is a bit of a char on the top of fish. Garnish with sliced lemon and more parsley.

Seasonal Salad

RECIPE BY SHIFRA KLEIN Serves: 8 This salad truly delivers all of the elements that an excellent salad is known for: sweet, savory, crispy and crunchy. Showcasing the salad on a platter versus tossed in a bowl allows all of the ingredients to shine. 4 cups baby arugula 1 Granny Smith apple, thinly sliced 1 Fuji or Honeycrisp apple, thinly sliced 3 stalks celery, peeled and sliced into thin strips 1 small red onion, thinly sliced ⅓ cup pumpkin seeds ⅓ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice ¼ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons honey 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard ½ teaspoon pumpkin pie spice ½ teaspoon kosher salt ½ cup pomegranate seeds, for garnish Combine arugula, apples, celery and red onion on a serving platter. Top with pumpkin seeds. Whisk together lemon juice, oil, honey, Dijon mustard, pumpkin pie spice and salt and drizzle over the salad. Garnish with pomegranate seeds. NOTE: Mason jars are the perfect vessel for preparing and storing homemade salad dressings. Combine ingredients, cover with a lid and shake.

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SEASONAL

Crispy Duck Breast with Root Vegetable Cream, Farro Risotto and Shaved Apples Serves: 6 RECIPE BY ADINA SCHLASS When I write my holiday menus, I like to think of composed dishes. I always pair a protein with a side and vegetable that complement each other in texture and flavor. The reward is a beautiful dish thats saves you from having to cook an excessive amount of food. Simple elegance goes a long way. For the Duck 3 duck breasts (estimate half a duck breast per person) For the Cream 1 medium Spanish onion, diced 1 clove garlic, minced 3 parsley roots or 2 small parsnips, peeled and diced 1 fennel bulb, diced (discard the top and bottom) Fresh thyme, leaves stripped 1 Granny Smith apple, peeled, cored and diced 1 cup unsweetened almond milk (or non-dairy milk of choice) For the Farro 1 tablespoon non-dairy margarine (such as Earth Balance or Betterine) 3 shallots, thinly sliced 1½ cups cooked farro (from about ½ cup raw farro, cooked according to package instructions) 4½ cups chicken broth (use a good-quality one, or homemade, as this is where a lot of the flavor will come from) Fresh thyme, leaves stripped Kosher salt, to taste For Serving 1 Granny Smith apple, 62

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thinly shaved (cut the apple in quarters and then shave into thin strips with a mandoline or peeler) Microgreens and fresh chopped parsley Maldon salt For the Duck While the duck is still cold, score the skin with a sharp knife. Make shallow diagonal cuts across the width of the breast, cutting through the skin but not the meat. Pat skin dry with a paper towel and generously season the skin with salt; this will help draw out any moisture and ensure crispy skin. Place the breasts skin side down into a cold cast iron or heavy-bottomed pan, then turn the heat to medium. The pan will heat slowly, rendering out the fat and making the skin incredibly crispy. After about 4 minutes, carefully remove the rendered fat from the pan, leaving a little left over for cooking the flesh. Turn duck over so the flesh meets the pan and cook for another 2 minutes, or until a thermometer reaches 135°F. Take the duck out and let rest for 5-7 minutes before slicing. For the Cream Sauté the onion and garlic in a medium-sized pot until softened, approximately 15 minutes. Season with salt. Add the diced parsley root or parsnip, fennel and fresh thyme. Season again with a pinch of salt and sauté another 10 minutes. Add the apples and sauté for 5 minutes. Add the almond milk and a little water until the vegetables are just covered with liquid. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 25-30 minutes, until vegetables are soft and can easily be pierced with a fork. Drain vegetables. Using a food processor, blend all vegetables until soft and creamy; season with salt to taste.

Cinnamon Herb Tea Serves: 8 This tea concept is inspired by nana (mint) tea, which is popular in Israel. Many cafés welcome you with a simple cup of hot water with fresh mint and it is the epitome of comforting. I wanted to make a statement on the table, so as part of the decor, I added a bundle of mixed fresh herbs, a cinnamon stick and a honey straw in each napkin ring, with a gray linen napkin as the backdrop. There was a steaming hot cup of water placed by each place setting so that guests were able to create a fresh, warming tea concoction when they arrived. 8-16 8-16 8-16 8-16

sprigs fresh mint sprigs thyme, oregano, or rosemary cinnamon sticks honey straws

Place 1-2 sprigs of mint, 1-2 sprigs thyme, oregano, or rosemary, 1 cinnamon stick and one honey straw into 6 ounces of boiling hot water. Steep for a few minutes before enjoying.

For the Farro Heat the margarine in a pan over medium heat and sauté the shallots until tender, about 10-15 minutes. Season with salt. Add the cooked farro and sauté for 15 minutes, stirring every few minutes, making sure everything gets a little crispy. Add half the stock and fresh thyme and simmer uncovered, stirring every few minutes to help release the starches. Once the stock reduces, add the rest of the stock and stir continuously every 5 minutes for 35-40 minutes, until the farro has a creamy consistency and all of the stock has been absorbed. Taste and season with salt as needed. Remove from fire, cover and steam for about 5 minutes. When reheating for the holiday, add a little chicken stock/soup to the risotto and place in a warm oven. Stir again before serving. To Serve Place the root vegetable

cream on a plate, top with a spoonful of the farro risotto and the sliced duck on top. Finish with shaved apple, microgreens and Maldon salt. Sous Vide Tip: Because duck is a lean protein, the sous vide is a practical cooking method. Plus, it’s perfect for the holidays, because you can sous vide ahead of time and sear right before serving for a perfectly crispy and fresh duck breast. If making this on Yom Tov, place the duck in the sous vide at 133°F for 1½ hours (you can put it in just before the holiday and keep it in until the meal). Just before serving, remove the duck from the bag, season with salt and sear skin.

NOTE: Maldon salt is a crunchy English sea salt known for its large and uneven flakes.

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SEASONAL

Salted Caramel Apple Blondies Makes: 16 squares RECIPE BY ELIZABETH KURTZ When salted caramel became all the rage, I wasn’t one to complain. It’s the perfect blend of sweet and salty- everything I want in a dessert. These blondies are a great dessert or the perfect accompaniment to a cup of coffee at breakfast. You can use butter and heavy cream if making for breakfast or a dairy meal. Salted Caramel Sauce Makes: 2 cups 1 cup sugar ¼ cup water ¾ cup non-dairy whipping cream 3½ tablespoons unsalted margarine (such as Earth Balance or Betterine) or butter 1 teaspoon kosher salt Caramel Blondies 2 cups plus 2½ tablespoons flour, divided 1¾ cups quick-cooking oats 1¼ cups brown sugar 1 teaspoon baking soda ¼ teaspoon salt 1¼ cups (2½ sticks) unsalted margarine (such as Earth Balance or Betterine), softened 1 tablespoon canola oil 3 Granny Smith apples, peeled and diced 1 teaspoon cinnamon 3 tablespoons sugar ¾ cup chopped pecans 1½ cups Salted Caramel Sauce Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease a 9x13-inch baking pan.

For the Salted Caramel Sauce In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, combine sugar and water over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves. Increase the heat and bring to a boil, without stirring. If necessary, use a wet pastry brush to wash down any crystals on the sides of the pan. Boil until the syrup is a deep amber color, about 5 to 6 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and carefully whisk in the whipping or cream. The mixture will bubble. Stir in the margarine and salt. Transfer caramel to a dish to cool. For the Blondies In an electric mixer, mix 2 cups flour, oats, brown sugar, baking soda, salt and softened margarine until crumbly. Divide the mixture in half. Press half of the mixture into the prepared pan. Bake for 10 minutes. Remove crust from oven and cool slightly. In a large skillet, heat canola oil over medium heat. Add diced apples, cinnamon and sugar and cook until apples are softened but still hold their shape, about 10 minutes. Spread the cooked apples over the cooled blondie crust. Sprinkle the chopped pecans over the apples. Mix the remaining 2½ tablespoons of flour with 1½ cups Salted Caramel Sauce. Drizzle the sauce over the nuts. Top with the remaining crumb mixture. Return to oven and bake for an additional 15-20 minutes or until the crust starts to brown. Allow to cool, and refrigerate until the caramel filling is set. Cut into bars and serve with remaining salted caramel sauce.

NOTES: • These blondies can be made 1-2 days ahead of time. Store in the refrigerator and rewarm sauce before serving. • Blondies can be frozen for up to 3 months. • Salted caramel can be refrigerated and then rewarmed slowly over low heat or in the microwave. 64

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COOKBOOK REVIEW

SIMPLY GOURMET T

here’s a new gourmet kosher cookbook on the market by legendary food writer Rivky Kleiman. Rivky has been writing about food and developing recipes for years as a contributor to Family Table, the food supplement to Mishpacha Magazine. Rivky is a true balabusta (Yiddish for “homemaker”) and Simply Gourmet serves up the secrets behind her easy laid-back approach to creating gourmet food perfect for a crowd at Shabbos, Yom Tov or in any simcha.

Standout Features: At the cookbook launch party, we tasted many of Rivky’s recipes and were impressed with her unique approach to classic dishes. Butternut squash soup served with a side of French toast croutons, rugelach amped up with a s’mores filling, minestrone soup studded with pillowy gnocchi, French onion soup elevated with boneless short ribs (how good does that sound?) and calzones made with malawach dough! Throughout the cookbook, the “Simple Supper” icon lets readers zero in on recipes that require 10 minutes or less of prep and are fully cooked within an hour, while other graphic icons let the reader know a recipe’s level of difficulty. Some examples of Rivky’s simple suppers include Honey

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In Brief: 304 pages. 137 recipes. Full page pictures of each recipe. Styled by: Renee Muller. Photographed by: Moshe Wulliger. $34.99. Published by Artscroll.

Mustard Salmon with Pretzel Crumb Topping, Garlic Mayo Skirt Steak Dinner, Oven Southern Fried Chicken, Deconstructed Meatballs and Crispy Orange Beef (just to name a few).

Notes: You can request that your fishmonger cut the tuna into these chunks. Dipping sauce stays fresh for 2 weeks in an airtight container in the refrigerator.

What really stands out are the chapters on desserts and baked goods. Highlights include Chocolate Bourbon Pecan Pie, White Chocolate Cheesecake (we can attest to the decadance of this indulgent treat), pareve Crème Brûlée and Sticky Toffee Pudding Cakes, which are amazing for fall. Then there are classics such as French Coffee Cake Muffins, Honey Cardamom Cookies and 2-tone Night-and-Day Chocolate Chip Cookies. Simply Gourmet is the perfect addition to your cookbook shelf, especially as we approach Sukkos. Here we share one of our favorite crowd-pleasing appetizers. w w w.f leishigs.com


SEARED TUNA PLATTER Serves: 12 Seared tuna is a great way to serve fish to guests who may be hesitant about trying something new. Tuna has a delicious meaty flavor and the fabulous dipping sauce is a perfect accompaniment to this beautiful platter. 2-2½ pounds sushi grade tuna ¼ cup Italian dressing ¼ cup teriyaki sauce ¼ red onion, very finely diced, for garnish 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded and very finely diced, for garnish Sweet Dipping Sauce ¼ cup low sodium soy sauce ¼ cup honey 2 tablespoons mirin/Japanese sweet wine 2 cloves garlic, crushed 1 teaspoon sesame oil

Reproduced from Simply Gourmet by Rivky Kleiman with permission from the copyright holders ArtScroll/Mesorah Publications, LTD.

Cut tuna into 2x2½-inch chunks (see note). Combine Italian dressing and teriyaki sauce in a large resealable bag. Mix to combine. Add tuna chunks. Marinate at least 1 hour in the refrigerator. Coat a large skittle with cooking spray and place over medium-high heat to preheat. Place 2 tuna chunks into the hot skillet; sear each side for 1-2 minutes, depending on the desired degree of doneness. Repeat with remaining tuna chunks. Remove seared tuna chunks from skillet; allow to rest 10 minutes before cutting into ⅓-inch slices. Prepare the sweet dipping sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together all ingredients until well combined. To serve, slightly overlap tuna slices around the serving tray. Serve with sweet dipping sauce. Garnish platter with red onion and jalapeño.

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TEST KITCHEN

coconut oil + arrowroot + soy lecithin + water = BETTERINE

NEW PRODUCT TESTING

I

n an era of whole food eating, cooks everywhere are on the lookout for healthier butter replacements. A few months back, we featured Betterine, a new product spearheaded by Akiva Stern, president of Amarlane Foods. Upon testing Betterine in various sweet and savory applications we launched a fullon investigation into how Betterine compares to other butter replacements on the market.

The challenge in creating a butter substitute is that the oil and water need to be emulsified sufficiently so that they stay in that state even during baking. Otherwise, the water will escape and make the dough chewy instead of flaky. This emulsification is traditionally done either through hydrogenation or via chemical means, such as through the use of mono- and diglycerides. Betterine is unique in that the creators found a method to create an emulsion using only 4 natural ingredients (coconut oil, arrowroot, soy lecithin and water) that remains stable under heat. And although its base is coconut oil, Betterine has zero coconut flavor whether raw or cooked. The best way to test a new product is to go to professional bakers, so that is exactly what we did. We had husband-and-wife duo Nachum and Miriam of The Cookie Corner in Lakewood, New

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Betterine is an excellent alternative to butter when baking pareve pastries — and a healthier choice than margarine. Jersey, experiment with Betterine in their shop; they used it in their signature cinnamon buns, buttercream, pie dough and scones. Chef Elior Balbul used it to sear steak, and Yoav Rogel, pastry chef and owner of Mensch Bakery in Los Angeles used it in his famous babka. The team at The Cookie Corner found that Betterine enhanced their yeast doughs, as well as doughs used for scones, which benefit from the unique texture of butter. Nachum and Miriam were also impressed with how flaky the pastries were, with a texture strikingly similar to that of pastries made with butter. According to Miriam, it did take Betterine much longer to come to room temperature than margarine or butter. She stated that it needs to be removed from the fridge at least a half hour before use. You can also microwave it for 10-20 seconds to soften. When using Betterine for pie dough, Miriam and Nachum explained that a sharp chef’s knife is necessary to cut through the solid, cold block. Although it was harder to cut than cold margarine or butter, the fact that it stayed cold actually assisted in creating a perfectly flaky crust. “It’s a pro and con at the same time,” joked Miriam. Nachum shared his excitement about using Betterine to make buttercream, but it took some trial and error because of Betterine’s higher water content (produced so it can melt like butter and not separate). As of print time, he was still experimenting with Betterine to arrive at the perfect dairy-free buttercream. At the end of the day, The Cookie Corner team concluded that Betterine is an excellent alternative to butter when baking pareve pastries — and a healthier choice than margarine. While in Lakewood, we also met up with restaurant consultant and cookbook author Sarah Lasry (@sarah_lasry), who was immediately able to distinguish the galette made with margarine versus the one made with Betterine — but she was delighted with the results. Faigy Murray (@mykitchen_mystudio), a local

Lakewood blogger, also stopped by and shared how impressed she was with the galette’s layers and texture. Chef Elior Balbul, Executive Chef at Alenbi in Brooklyn, couldn’t get over how well Betterine reacted when he used it to sear steak. He did point out that while Betterine didn’t have a butter taste, it worked in place of butter to baste the steak. Butter is traditionally used in French cuisine to baste steaks and is the one ingredient many classically trained chefs miss when cooking kosher meat. Chef Elior heated a pan to very high heat, added just a bit of oil, a few cloves garlic and fresh herbs. He seasoned the steak with salt and pepper and seared the meat for 3 minutes, placing a heaping tablespoon of Betterine atop the steak as it was cooking. After 3 minutes, he added a touch more Betterine, flipped the steak and then continuously basted it in the Betterine to create a succulent, juicy steak. The results blew our minds, and we urge you to try this method at home. The final professional we put to the Betterine test was Yoav Rogel, pastry chef and owner at Mensch Bakery in the LaBrea neighborhood of Los Angeles. The bakery is famous for its French croissants, cinnamon buns, an array of dairy and pareve pastries, quiches and a full breakfast, brunch and lunch menu. Yoav, a leading pastry chef in the kosher world, was thrilled with — and completely sold on — how Betterine produced a rich dough for his pastry cream-filled babka. Layla Zirkind (@laylazirkind), a kosher lifestyle blogger based in LA, couldn’t get over how soft the babka dough was and exclaimed that it brought her back to Israel. (Unknown to many is the unique fluffy texture of Israeli babka, typically made with butter.) Not only did Betterine impress us in our own small kitchen, we knew the product was a hit when it impressed the professionals, which is truly something to celebrate. OCTOBER 2019

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TEST KITCHEN

MENSCH’S BABKA Makes: 4 babkas This babka dough was hands down the easiest we have ever made. A good mixer is required, but all you have to do is dump in the ingredients, give it a 10-minute knead and within an hour of rising a beautiful dough forms. The dough has no added sugar and even the filling is minimally sweet, with just the addition of chocolate. If you like your babka a bit sweeter, we suggest sprinkling ¼ cup of sugar on top of the chocolate filling before rolling the babka. We tried the recipe using Schmerling's 55% and a second time using the 72% chocolate. For this recipe, we prefer the 55% chocolate. Dough: 8 cups all-purpose flour 3 packets instant yeast 4 eggs 1¼ cups almond milk 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1¾ sticks Betterine, room temperature Filling: 20 ounces semisweet baking chocolate, melted 3 sticks Betterine, melted Syrup: ½ cup sugar ½ cup water Using the dough hook attachment, mix all the dough ingredients in a stand mixer until a smooth dough forms, about 10 minutes. Let rest in a large bowl covered with plastic wrap for 1 hour or until doubled in size. Divide dough into 4 equal parts. Make the filling by combining the melted chocolate and Betterine. Roll each portion of dough into an 18x10-inch rectangle, spread filling over the dough, leaving a small border all around and roll up like a jelly roll. Twist the roll to create the classic babka twist and place into a greased loaf pan. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough. Set aside and let proof for 1 hour. Prepare the syrup. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine sugar and water. Simmer for 2-3 minutes, stirring until the sugar dissolves completely. Preheat oven to 375°F. Bake babka for 25-30 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately brush with syrup. Allow to cool before slicing.

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We knew the product was a hit when it impressed the professionals. APPLE PEACH GALETTE Serves: 8 RECIPE BY THE COOKIE CORNER 450 grams all-purpose flour (2¼ cups) ½ teaspoon kosher salt 3 sticks Betterine ⅓ cup ice water 6-7 apples 2-3 peaches Zest of 2 lemons 75 grams (¾ cup) sugar, plus more for sprinkling ⅓ cup apricot preserves 1 lightly beaten egg white or ¼ cup non-dairy coffee creamer Preheat the oven to 450°F. Place flour and salt in a food processor and pulse a few times. Dice the Betterine into small cubes and add to the food processor; pulse a few times, add ice water and then pulse a few more times until dough just comes together. You don’t want to overmix the dough. A good galette dough benefits from pockets of Betterine throughout the dough. Transfer the dough to a clean work surface and bring together with your hands to form one ball of dough. Flatten to a disc and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Roll the dough into a disk about ⅛-inch thick and cut a 10-inch circle. Refrigerate until ready to use. Core and slice the apples and peaches and toss in the lemon zest and sugar. Take the dough out of the fridge and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread the preserves over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border. Put the apples and peaches on top and close the edges over the filling. Brush the exposed dough with egg white or creamer. Sprinkle crust edges and apples with sugar. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden brown. w w w.f leishigs.com


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N I SO RESTAURANT CHRONICLES

A Meeting of the Kosher Marketing Minds at T-Fusion Steakhouse

F

rom the minute you walk into Brooklyn’s T-Fusion Steakhouse until you finish that last plate of dessert, you are greeted with class and exceptional service. Owner Allison Kahn injects a special energy into the restaurant. An expert restaurateur (she previously owned and operated famed Brooklyn dairy restaurant T for Two), Allison knowns that service and consistency are a large part of the success of a restaurant. Loyal T-Fusion regulars even receive their own engraved steak knives to use while dining at this neighborhood establishment. T-Fusion is well known for its famous charcuterie board and array of

BY SARAH ENCAOUA GUIGUE

appetizers, as well as its classic 21+ day, dry-aged Delmonico steak and the highly requested "Reserve Steak," not to mention the restaurant's daily specials. T-Fusion also sports a fully stocked bar with an array of options, from hard liquor to your choice of 350 wines. In addition to the kitchen staff being up to date on the most popular seasonal ingredients, they’re passionate about serving the highest quality food and beverages. At the invitation of Fleishigs Magazine, a group of marketing leaders specializing in the world of kosher gathered on on the second floor of this fine restaurant for a fun, 7-course dinner with exceptional service. As the diners talked shop and food, Executive Chef Zack Hess served the first course: Japanese eggplant prepared caponata-style and served on toast was a wonderful, modern take on eggplant dip. It was served alongside Chef Hess’ signature spicy hummus. The poke bowl followed and was a standout of the evening- fresh tuna, warm sticky rice, pickled ginger and avocado cream. The highlight of the dish

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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES “Believe it or not, Kosherfest 2019 is almost here,” said Menachem Lubinsky, cofounder of the annual industry trade show with 400 booths and more than 7,000 visitors taking place on November 12-13 at the Meadowlands Exposition Center in Secaucus, NJ. But before the food show season even begins, we gathered kosher marketing experts at T-Fusion Steakhouse in Brooklyn, NY, to find out which ads in their profiles bring them the most pride.

M REA CE C EE I ND OFF TE A Y T OLA AM HOC R CRE K C S FO MIL . SPIE E AT OTH CRI THE MO E TR ICE IBL TS S Y R IST MEE NCH RES CRU , IR ERY UTT A B

NEW

Next up was the chef’s mini charcuterie board, the favorite of the night, which offered up an array of cured meat and accompaniments like tongue with a spicy mustard and sweet apricot chutney. Elisheva Perlman, owner of The Anelis Group (@theanelisgroup) and Leah Schapira, creator of Between Carpools (@betweencarpools) especially enjoyed the market-inspired, “summer on a plate” pasta dish with homemade bowtie noodles cooked with fresh peas and cherry tomatoes, served in a light, savory sauce and garnished with fresh herbs.

The meat course brought braised Wagyu chuck with root vegetables, which was substantially satisfying as plates were wiped clean. Nafali and Jack from Mann Sales Co. (@mannsalesco) were really impressed with the texture of the braised main course. “It was melt in your mouth,” shared Jack. We ended the meal on a high note with a delectable blueberry crumble. It was seasonal and perfectly balanced with a crumb topping. A sign that the dinner party was truly successful? The group of marketing pros stayed long after dessert was done, with conversations about the future of kosher cuisine flowing well after midnight.

Sarah Encaoua Guigue, also known as Hassidic Hipster girl on social media, offers creative content to her audience and focuses on infusing her page with Judaism and spirituality. She graduated from York University in Toronto with a BA in Humanities. She also has a background in acting, film and creative writing. Follow her journey on Instagram @hassidic.hipster.girl.

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NEW S U M M

was roasted corn, which made for a surprising combination of flavors and textures.

E R

9 ‘ 1

MEDIA OTG No, your page isn’t wet (unless you’re drooling). This ad for Mehadrin uses incredibly sharp photography and strategic angles and positioning to show off one of the tastiest products we’ve had the pleasure of introducing. Contrasting last year’s campaign, which showed a macro view of ice cream’s role in the summer, this campaign got up close and personal. Every micro detail was carefully considered, down to the tiniest drop of condensation. It took 29 bites to get the perfect image and 8 hours of shooting to get the perfect angle on the ices for the series. And yes, we ate the leftovers.

T-Fusion Steakhouse is located at 3223 Quentin Road, Brooklyn, NY (718) 627-8325 | www.tfusionsteakhouse.com | @tfusionsteakhouseny


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When Confetti approached us to promote its pareve ice cream for summer, we tapped into the pilgrimage of the religious community to Upstate New York. We channeled the delight of seeing your name in the paper by calling out different bungalow colonies while also bragging about how delicious Confetti is. People absolutely loved it.

Freedom Bars is a fresh, emergent brand of whole food snack bars disrupting the industry with a healthy dose of real: real simple, real healthy and real good, with no hidden ingredients or preservatives. And what better way to break the ice than with a good old-fashioned bar joke?

This is our all-time favorite ad because it’s truly a showstopper. Everyone knows Klein’s is Cholov Yisroel, but the headline says otherwise to pique the reader’s interest so they’ll read the rest of the ad. Mission accomplished in a revolutionary way.

‫כ‬ ‫שר לפסח‬ WHEN ISRAEL GIVES YOU LEMONS...DRINK IT COLD!

For those with higher standards.℠

Extr Spic a y

Fire Your Imagination While you roam far and wide, Gefen Hot! Noodle Soup has summer travels of its own. Fiery and keen, this highly seasoned flavor is just right for wherever summer takes you. With the security of a fresh meal to accompany you, there’s no limit to where you can fly. KOSHER FOR PASSOVER

Ask not where you can take Gefen Instant Noodle Soup, but where can it take you. © Copyright Gefen Foods 2019 | Made With Heart

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Gefen is a brand with passionate individuals behind its products who go the extra mile to connect to consumers on an emotional level. This dynamic, memorable ad succeeded in capturing people’s attention.

As a huge Fleishigs Magazine fan, I’m proud of the first ad we placed in the magazine. Because this was a “foodie” item, we wanted to target that community; the results have been amazing.

“The People’s Yogurt” slogan depicts people from various backgrounds and accomplishes many things with one ad. It’s an example of an ad that is well executed after thoroughly analyzing the strategic objectives. These are the type of ads that succeed and penetrate the psyche of the reader.

MANN SALES CO

OPTIMAL TARGETING

JOSEPH JACOBS

We are proud of our “Just Wing It” campaign, because sales went up 25% in a short period of time.

Our brand strategy was to position Meat + Board as a high-end charcuterie company. By highlighting what inspired the meats, we differentiated ourselves from the competition.

Sometimes, it’s more than just the ad. It’s being part of a marked change or watershed moment in the Jewish community. This Oreo campaign was one of those moments. OCTOBER 2019

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The Other Side of the Cork:

Or Haganuz Winery BY YAEL E. GELLER, MPH

O

ur adventures take us this time to the northern part of Israel near Tzfat, to the haven of Or Haganuz. Home to many beautiful vineyards and wineries which overlook Meron, this area has been known to have some of the best soil in the entire country to grow the most luscious grapes. It is said that the grapes from this region were used to make wine for the sacrifices in the Beit Hamikdash. Or Haganuz winery was founded in 2005 and has since been run by a completely Orthodox staff. The meaning of the winery’s name, “hidden light,” is a hint to the creation of the world. Many may think that making wine is an ungodly type of task, but that is incorrect, especially because of the wines that are being produced at this particular winery. The area in the Galilee where the

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winery lays has been the destination for hundreds of thousands of Jews throughout history, whether they are visiting the cave of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai on Lag Bao’mer or visiting the graves of the righteous in Tzfat like Rav Yitzchak Luria, also known as the Arizal, or Rav Moshe Alsheich. The winery has the most breathtaking vineyards, said to be the most beautiful estate winery in the entire land of Israel. This area truly is a hidden light in the north, which brings the inhabitants of the village and purveyors of these wines to another level. The philosophy of the winery is singularhighlight the grapes grown in each vineyard to its potential. “This philosophy can certainly be applied as a personal lesson as well, highlight our good traits to the best of our ability,” says winemaker Aharon Ziv.

The village was established and is led by the Kabbalist Rav Mordechai Sheinberger and his students, who wanted to create a cooperative based on giving to the community while making a spiritual impact on each other. The Rav was a contemporary of Rav Yehuda Ashlag, who wrote a commentary on the Zohar. It is befitting that this spiritual haven is footsteps from Har Meron and the burial place of Rabbi Shimon Bar Yochai, author of the Zohar. The village is based on giving to others and influencing the world spiritually. Through the winery, the villagers have found a wonderful way to combine these concepts together. The winery provides a respectable livelihood to the residents of Or Haganuz and supports the social ideals on which the village is based.

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P R OV I D E D BY R OYA L W I N E C O R P.

Aharon explained to me that their philosophy for winemaking is one that has high aspirations. Making good wine is not enough for this winemaker; experimenting and utilizing the most advanced technology is key to improving the wines, vintage after vintage. The winery is also involved with aiding and producing wines from different wineries. The highest standard of Kashrut is adhered to at Or Haganuz, making it an ideal facility for cooperative agreements with surrounding wineries to do their crushing and bottling. The opportunity for oneness among Israeli wineries is astounding. This is something I knew nothing about until I saw it in action, where winemakers from all different walks of life collaborate. They constantly try to help each other with any questions or roadblocks during any one of the intricate processes that are involved with producing wine. Aharon Ziv comments that he loves to learn from wineries making wines in an “old world” style, while Or Haganuz wines are for the most part “new world” in style. The blend of both styles and methods have resulted in amazing, unique and appealing wines, on both ends. Or Haganuz offers many wines for every type of consumer. There is the Amuka, Elima and Marom Series, as well as the Namura, French Blend and the flagship wine Horkenus. We recently had the opportunity to have a white wine tasting panel. The star of the show was the new Blanc Blend from the Amuka Series. It was floral, refreshing and easy on the palate, while still being able to stand up to an array of fine cheeses presented with the wine. Other wines to note are the dessert wines. There is the Har Sinai dessert wine, which is made in port style. The Har Sinai is robust and interesting with

its dark purple hues and nose-ripe with dark red fruits and chocolate shavings atop tobacco. This type of wine will pair with anything chocolate easily, as well as on its own as a digestif after a Shabbat meal. They have 2 wines which are winners year in and out- the Marom Cabernet Franc and the Namura Cabernet Sauvignon. They are versatile and continue to become more complex as the vineyards and winemaking process mature at Or Haganuz. There is no lack of interest and taste in the wines offered by Or Haganuz, but there is one wine which catches most people’s attention since it appeals to a niche market of those who avoid added sulfites. All wine and grape juice have sulfites naturally as grapes contain sulfites. Some enjoy wines in their purest forms and this is where the Elima wine fills a void in the kosher consumer market. There are a handful of no-sulfite wines on the market and the Elima is one of them. Named for Elima College, which is an institution that teaches natural medicine, this wine is a vehicle for connecting the body with the soul and the mind. I strongly urge tourists and locals alike to visit the production at Or Haganuz winery to see where the spiritual and physical unite in the winemaking process. L’chaim!

To schedule a tour and a tasting at Or Haganuz, the winery can be contacted via email at: ofer@amit-manage.co.il

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INTERVIEW

Hunny Khodorkovsky

G

BY SHIFRA KLEIN

Cooking background:

rowing up with a Moroccan mother, we never ate out. My mom thought everything was dirty and was so firm in her philosophy that we made everything from scratch, including bread. I learned how to cook at home but I learned how to be a chef through culinary school and restaurant experience.

Being called a chef is a serious title. What does it mean to be a chef versus a cook? Being a chef is not about being a good cook. You need to be super organized, methodical. It’s about a sense of urgency and scheduling your time properly. You can be a great chef and a terrible cook because you run a smooth operation. Obviously you want to have both, but being a chef is so much more than cooking.

What motivated you to sign up for culinary school? I was a stay-at-home mom for 8 years and I decided to go to culinary school when I moved to Michigan. I thought it would be a fun hobby and I ended up loving it. I made connections and was involved in different events. I did some work with a celebrity chef in the area for almost 2 years and then I started really easing my way into into the industry. I started to grow my kosher events within the Jewish community and in 2016 I was involved in the opening of Soul Café in Detroit, MI. Soul Café was awarded the Best Vegetarian Restaurant in Michigan in 2018 and it was also unique in that we worked with training adults with special needs for front and back of house service in collaboration with the Friendship Circle.

How did you end up working at the acclaimed non-kosher restaurant Selden Farms? After 2 years, I felt stagnant and wanted to expand my culinary horizons. In 2018, I walked into one of the top restaurants in Michigan, Selden Farms, and asked to apprentice. After 1 day in the kitchen, the chef offered me a full-time job. I initially declined and told him, “You don’t want me to work here. I’m a mom of 4, I keep kosher so I can’t taste the food and to top it all off there are a combined 150 days a year of holidays and Saturdays where I can’t work.” He hired me anyway and I’m still there!

I applaud you for following your passion. What was the most outof-the-box action you took to expand your chef horizons? I flew to Los Angeles and worked under Meir Adoni (when I heard he was there for an event) for free, just to learn. You have to know your strengths and weaknesses, but there is always room for growth and you have to jump on those opportunities.

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What is your official role at Selden Farms? I’m basically a floater. It’s always busy and the jobs are never done. When I come in I assess and then help out wherever I’m needed; from training, to expediting, to prep work, to manning the plancha (grill).

So that’s why the chef was adamant about hiring you- you can do everything! I alleviate some stress when I’m there and am often told by the restaurant staff how happy they are when I’m there. I have learned to make myself an asset wherever I go.

What other lessons have you learned along the way? I learned how to multitask and stay strong in my passion, work ethic and belief system. I always tell people- if you love to cook, don’t go into the industry. If you are doing it for money, don’t go into this industry. The hours are crazy (60-90 hours a week), the pay is low and the environment is really intense and competitive. Most people I went to culinary school with are not in the industry anymore. It is a high turnover industry.

How do you deal with being kosher in a non-kosher restaurant? I don’t eat anything in the restaurant and I don’t cook meat and dairy together there. From day 1 I also remained strong in my values. I cover my hair, wear a skirt and am clearly religious. The interesting thing is that because of my strong values and strong work ethic, my co-workers lean on me and respect me.

In addition to your restaurant work, you have a private chef business. Tell us more about that. I partnered with Stephanie Friedman to help navigate the logistics of the private chef world. We bring a team and

cook gourmet meals for our clients wherever they are, whether at home or on vacation. I will go to a client’s home for sheva brachos and parties. I recently flew to LA to teach someone how to use their outdoor kitchen and have collaborated with caterers on weddings menus and table designs.

How do you gain clients? Word of mouth. The interesting thing about this business is that being a private chef is private. You can’t share a lot of what you do. People who know me get annoyed that I don’t share much of this part of my life on Instagram, because it is truly fascinating and people would love to watch it. However, I need to keep most of what I do private, out of respect for my clients.

Tell us about your most memorable travel experience. My favorite (and hardest) trip was to Hawaii. We stayed at the Four Seasons on the Big Island for 12 days. It was intense. We didn’t know what we were getting ourselves into until the morning of. I originally went to Costco and wasn’t impressed with the options. Nothing was made on the island. So I befriended the chef at the hotel and he allowed me to buy fresh food off of him. I think the most challenging experiences are what make you better at what you do, because comfort zones don’t allow you to grow.

Any business tips? When you’re first getting your name out there, you’ll take any opportunity you can get. You don’t have the confidence yet to know when to say no. When I first started, I was ready to do it all but quickly learned how to hold back. The most important thing is maintaining your reputation, standards and networking. You never know what something will bring. And, always be nice to people- I met my husband in an airport!

Yom Tov Cooking Tips How can people translate professional organizational skills to their home kitchens? DELEGATE. My family comes for Rosh Hashanah and I put everyone to work. People are scared to put their guests to work, but you shouldn’t be shy to ask for help. Everyone is taking part in the holiday, so they should all contribute. In a professional kitchen, everyone has assigned roles, which leads to smooth service. Mimicking that level of help in your kitchen makes a huge difference.

THINK AHEAD. My cooking relies on layers of flavors, as do many Yom Tov menus. You can prepare a lot in advance. Sauces, caramelized onions, roasts, salad dressings and garlic confit can all be made in advance. Once you have all those building blocks at the ready, it’s easy to put together a gourmet meal.

USE LEFTOVERS. I reuse things to make other things. For example, make chicken or beef and the sauce left in the pan is like extra gold. It's completely packed with flavor. So I like to take this sauce and freeze it and use as a base for another sauce at a later time. It’s extra concentrated and a huge flavor builder. I also like to keep all the stems of herbs to use in soups or brines (e.g., basil stem marinara; radish stem pesto). You can’t eat them alone because they’re fibrous but they are packed with flavor.

KEEP THINGS SIMPLE. I cook really healthy and keep my menus at home basic. When I’m stressed, my family will be stressed. People are so intimidated to have me over, but I always tell them to just make roast chicken and fresh vegetables and I’ll be happy.

Follow Hunny on Instagram @hunnythechef. OCTOBER 2019

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RECIPE INDEX

SALADS

ROASTED GARLIC RECIPE BY KAYLA KAYE

17 Spicy Cucumber Salad 17 Bean Sprout Salad 50 Simanim Salad 61 Seasonal Salad

VEGETARIAN MAINS 51 Simanim Stuffed Eggplant 30 Chana Masala

FISH 35 Gefilte Fish

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Line a metal baking sheet with a large piece of foil. Place 3 cups of peeled garlic cloves into the center of the foil. Drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons olive oil and toss to coat. Place 1-2 sprigs of fresh rosemary on top and wrap foil around garlic to form a tightly sealed pouch. Bake for about 1 hour, rotating halfway through (check after 1 hour for doneness). Turn off oven and allow to cool in oven for an additional 20 minutes. Open pouch to release steam and allow to cool completely before handling. Use to stuff your challah, top your challah, or as a spread at the table. Separate the leftover garlic into small Ziploc bags or half pint containers and freeze for later use. Stays in the freezer for up to 3 months.

61 Honey-Chili Salmon 51 Simanim Tartare 67 Seared Tuna Platter

MEAT & POULTRY 17 Korean Braised Top of the Rib 18 Sous Vide Top of the Rib 18 Baharat and Fig Braised Top of the Rib 29 Chicken Tikka 62 Crispy Duck Breast

SIDES & SOUPS 23 Indian Tomato Soup 51 Black Eyed Pea Hummus 61 Roasted Chestnut and Mushroom Soup 80 Sweet Potato Croquettes

BAKED GOODS 40 Pull-Apart Pretzel-Wrapped Sausage Ring 42 The Round Basket Weave 64 Salted Caramel Apple Blondies 70 Mensch’s Babka 70 Apple Peach Galette 82 Roasted Garlic Pretzel Challah

EXTRAS 23 Roti 31 Mango chutney 39 “Bacon” Honey Crumb Topping 42 Horseradish Honey Mustard 50 Pomegranate Molasses Dressing 62 Cinnamon Herb Tea

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SWEET POTATO CROQUETTES

RECIPE BY YOSSI AND MALKY LEVINE Makes: 24 croquettes The inspiration for this recipe comes from the popular restaurant, Mike’s Bistro in NYC. When I ate their delicious sweet potato croquettes, I was determined to recreate them one day. This is a family-friendly crowd pleaser that will surely be a welcomed addition to you table this holiday season. ¼ cup oil, divided 1 large onion, diced 2 large sweet potatoes, cooked and mashed* ½ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup brown sugar 2 eggs 1½ teaspoons kosher salt 6 scallions, minced 2 cups panko breadcrumbs

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add diced onion. Sauté until golden brown and translucent, about 5-7 minutes. In a large bowl, combine the mashed sweet potatoes, sautéed onions, flour, brown sugar, eggs, salt and scallions; mix until combined. Refrigerate the mixture for 30 minutes to firm up. Place panko breadcrumbs into a pie dish. Using an ice cream scoop, scoop balls of the sweet potato mixture and roll in the panko crumbs until coated. Once coated, you can use your hands to help form the balls into round patty shapes. Then, transfer them to a sheet of parchment paper. Heat remaining oil in a large skillet. Add the sweet potato patties a few at a time and fry 3-4 minutes per side, until they’re crispy and golden. Let them cool on a wire rack. To reheat, arrange the patties on a baking sheet in a single layer and warm in the oven. *How to cook sweet potatoes: Preheat oven to 400°F. Prick sweet potatoes all over with a fork and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle olive oil and sprinkle kosher salt all over the sweet potatoes. Bake for 20-30 minutes, until fork tender. To speed up the cooking process, halve the sweet potatoes and place cut side down onto the baking sheet. Once cooled, remove skin and mash. w w w.f leishigs.com


LAST BITE

ROASTED GARLIC STUFFED CHALLAH METHOD BY KAYLA KAYE

Split your challah dough into 3 equal pieces. Using a rolling pin, roll out each piece into about a 4x9-inch rectangle. Place roasted garlic cloves (see pg. 80) down the center of the dough, trying not to overfill; estimate about Ÿ cup garlic per strand. Fold the edges over each other lengthwise and pinch closed to keep garlic inside. Braid the strands as you would a standard 3 strand challah and place in a greased challah pan. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and allow to rise about 45 minutes. Follow pretzel technique instructions (pg. 38), then brush challah with egg wash and top with chopped fresh rosemary, more garlic and a sprinkle of coarse sea salt. Bake at 350°F for about 40-50 minutes.

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