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TRENDS WHAT IS TRENDING IN THE WORLD OF RESTAURANTS?
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MEMORABLE BITES DISHES THAT LEFT A LASTING IMPRESSION
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EDITOR’S LETTER
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THIS MONTH’S CONTRIBUTORS
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RECIPE INDEX
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BUTCHER’S CUT Lamb chops: A breakdown
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L’CHAIM A Toast to Unforgettable Memories
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BRINGING SOMETHING NEW TO THE TABLE Le Marais’ duck confit frisée salad
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES 1 Ondas: An Elevated Take on Modern Mexican Cuisine
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RESTAURANT GUIDE 2025
124 RESTAURANT CHRONICLES 2 Nomè: Food, Music and Celebration
134
FRANCHISE
130 THE OTHER SIDE OF THE CORK Jelínek: The Glorious Journey of a Plum 140 BACK POCKET Bento boxes and katsu 146 LAST BITE #yesitsontheapp
THE INS AND OUTS OF STARTING A KOSHER FRANCHISE
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137 Spruce Street Cedarhurst, New York T: 516-569-2662
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E D I TO R' S L E T T E R
T H E R E STAU R A N T I SS U E
EDITOR IN CHIEF Shifra Klein
THE POWER OF RESTAURANTS As I sat down to reflect on this year’s restaurant-themed issue, one powerful takeaway stood out from my recent travels to New Orleans and Nashville that we covered a few issues back. While I couldn't rewrite the entire feature of those visits this month, the message was clear: restaurants, especially kosher ones, are the cornerstones of their respective communities. They provide more than just meals; they offer connection, culture and comfort. This sentiment really stands out in smaller communities (something we highlighted in our Trends section), where the one kosher spot (much like Kosher Cajun in New Orleans) keeps kosher culture alive — in a literal sense. Even here in the Five Towns, we have our cherished spots that mean so much to us. My Cho-Sen Island lunch with Shloimy: the local coffee shop where Elisheva and I meet for our brainstorming sessions; our kids’ favorite meals at Smash House; the lunches from Very Juice that we order during shoot days to boost our energy; and Ondas, the recently opened party vibe spot where we celebrated some birthdays — each of these places holds special memories and significance. Restaurants are also incredible sources of inspiration, offering bites so memorable that they spark culinary creativity in our own kitchens. This issue celebrates just that: the dishes and flavors that stay with us and inspire us to create at home. For instance, those soft, fluffy dinner rolls we couldn’t get enough of on a recent trip to the new Reserve Cut in Midtown Manhattan have now become
a Friday night favorite, reimagined as an olive oil-based yeast dough that works brilliantly as a version of pull-apart challah. And pistachio — a hot trend we’re loving — takes center stage in our musttry pistachio cake with pistachio cream cheese frosting inspired by a dessert that used to be on the menu at Anju in Cedarhurst, NY. Running a restaurant is no easy feat. Behind every dish served and every table set is a world of challenges: broken ovens, missing orders, short-staffed shifts and an endless list of unforeseen hurdles. It’s a constant hustle, and while some restauranteurs make a living from it, it’s rarely a lucrative one. It’s a labor of love, driven by passion and resilience. If you were to ask most restauranteurs whether you should get into the business, they’d likely try to dissuade you. And yet, they show up every single day, creating spaces that nourish both our bodies and our spirits. This issue is dedicated to them — the restauranteurs who persevere, innovate and inspire us. Whether you’re recreating a memorable restaurant dish at home or discovering a new favorite spot, we hope this issue brings you closer to the heart and soul of the restaurant world. Let’s celebrate the power of restaurants together.
CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Shlomo Klein EDITOR Elisheva Taitz COPY EDITOR Chana Z. Weiss ART DIRECTOR Simone Heimstädt FOOD STYLIST Shifra Klein MARKETING Mann Sales Co. PHOTOGRAPHER Sheneur Menaker TEST KITCHEN CHEF Suchi Mittel CREATIVE WRITER Yudi Lewis TEST KITCHEN SPONSOR Gourmet Glatt DISTRIBUTOR YMCM DISTRIBUTION ymcmdist@gmail.com
www.fleishigs.com Comments & Questions: Hello@fleishigs.com Advertising & Partnerships: Shlomo@fleishigs.com All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part in any form without prior written permission from the publisher is prohibited. Fleishigs Magazine assumes no responsibility for content or kashrut of articles and advertisements in the magazine or for the content of books. Fleishigs Magazine is not responsible for typographical errors.
Bityavon, Shifra
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RECIPE INDEX R E S T A U R A N T
I S S U E
CONDIMENTS & EXTRAS
VEGETARIAN & SIDES
20
Salsa Macha Q
20
Parsnip Purée
42
Cumin Aioli
20
Roasted Delicata Squash
42
Pickled Vegetables
34
Crispy Rice Squares
54
Olive Oil Dinner Rolls FF
42
Poached Pear and Arugula Salad
54
Herb “Butter”
42
Eggplant Steaks M
77
Balsamic-Glazed Shallots
54
Okonomiyaki D
87
Aji Verde
63
Breakfast Burritos FF
87
Tamarind Barbecue Sauce
64
Breakfast Potatoes
87
Habanero Hot Sauce Q
77
Crispy Potatoes M Q
138
Fleishigs AP Burger Sauce FF Q
88
Baby Gem Salad
138
Crispy Fried Onions
144
Crunchy Cabbage Slaw Q
143
Tonkatsu Sauce Q
144
Miso Soup
144
Homemade Panko Bread Crumbs M
144
Carrot Ginger Dressing
FISH
MEAT & CHICKEN 20
Salt and Pepper Baby Lamb Chops FF
42
Preserved Lemon Tongue
34
Spicy Salmon Tartare Q
60
Apricot Chicken Salad FF
34
Teriyaki Tuna Tartare Q
62
Honey Chipotle Wings FF
54
Teriyaki-Glazed Seared Sea Bass M Q
77
Duck Confit Arugula Salad
85
Tajín Steak Milanesa D
87
Lamb Barbacoa FF
138
Beef Bacon Smashburger FF
Specialty Ingredients List:
Dried Ancho or Guajillo Chilis: Mildly spicy with smoky and fruity undertones, these dried chilies add depth to sauces, soups and stews. You can find these whole and dried in various spice shops or specialty Latin markets. They usually do not need a kosher certification, but consult with your local rabbi. Use them in the Salsa Macha on page 20. 14
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Kombu: This variety of seaweed, used in broths and stocks, lends a rich umami flavor to dishes. We used the Eden brand for the Okonomiyaki on page 54.
Tajín: This tangy, spicy mix of chili, lime and salt enhances pretty much anything it’s used on, even fresh fruit (try it on fresh pineapple). It’s a great option for those who don’t like too-spicy and provides a great balance for the Tajín Steak Milanesa on page 85.
Tamarind Paste: We love this ingredient for its ability to add a tangy, slightly sweet concentrated tamarind flavor to sauces, marinades and even cocktails. We used it in the Tamarind Barbecue Sauce on page 87.
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138
Crispy Beef Bacon
138
Beef Bacon Jam
143
Chicken Katsu FF M
144
Japanese-Style Pepper Steak FF
SWEET TREATS 58
Pistachio Cake with Cream “Cheese” Frosting
p. 68
Espresso Chocolate Cake
Poached Pineapple M
68
Espresso Chocolate Cake
68
Chocolate Ganache
68
Chocolate Mousse
68
Chocolate Shards
KEY:
p. 20
Salt and Pepper Baby Lamb Chops
58
FF
Family-Friendly
M
Minimal Ingredients
Q
Quick
D
Deceptively Simple
New Category Alert: DECEPTIVELY SIMPLE
Recipes that are super simple (quick to make and require minimal ingredients and prep work) but present as super impressive
While some of these might already be in your kitchen, others could be new to you. We've included this list to highlight the overall accessibility of our recipes. The remaining ingredients in this issue are mostly common pantry staples.
Chipotle Peppers in Adobo Sauce: Smoky hot peppers packed in a spicy and slightly sweet sauce is perfect for marinades, tacos or chili. We used the Roland brand in the Honey Chipotle Wings on page 62 and the Lamb Barbacoa on page 87. Have leftover chipotle peppers? Simply blend with mayonnaise, honey and lime juice, to taste.
Non-Dairy Feta Cheese:
Preserved Lemons:
This plant-based feta alternative delivers a creamy, salty element to salads and Mediterranean dishes. We used it in the Poached Pear and Arugula Salad on page 42, but we also find that it works well as a non-dairy melting cheese (it’s more mild in flavor than some of the other sliced vegan cheeses).
Lemons cured in salt and their own juices deliver an intensely bright and savory punch to recipes. We combined it with herbs as an incredible accompaniment to the Preserved Lemon Tongue on page 42. You can use it in fish dishes, dipping sauces and braised meats.
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SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE
TRENDS
2
Flavors from South America are making their mark on the kosher restaurant scene, and it’s not just about steak. This trend is all about incorporating the bold spices, smoky grilled flavors and fresh ingredients that define South American cooking. With restaurants pushing the boundaries of what we know as kosher, dishes such as Argentine-style empanadas, Brazilian-style charcoal chicken, tacos, rice and beans, plantains and various styles of ceviche are popping up in eateries around the world, offering a fusion of kosher and South American flavors. Recipes on page 86.
Aguachile from Ondas in Cedarhurst, NY
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TRENDS
RESTAURANTS AS GATHERING SPOTS
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Nome (NYC)
In today’s world, dining out isn’t just about the food — it’s about creating experiences and memories. Restaurants are increasingly becoming gathering spots, where people come not just for a meal but for a sense of community. With a focus on creating warm, inviting atmospheres, these spaces encourage conversation, celebration and connection. Whether it’s a local neighborhood eatery or a high-end hot spot, the idea of dining as an event has never been stronger. Turn to the Restaurant Chronicles section (pages 80 and 124) to read all about Ondas (Cedarhurst, NY) and Nome (NYC) restaurants that both exemplify this growing trend.
Ondas (Cedarhurst, NY)
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BRINGING SOMETHING NEW TO THE TABLE:
BRINGING SOMETHING NEW TO THE TABLE
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BRINGING SOMETHING NEW TO THE TABLE
RESTAURANT EDITION L E M A R A I S I S A C L ASS I C KOS H E R F R E N C H ST E A K H O U S E I N N E W YO R K C I T Y T H AT H AS B E E N A RO U N D FO R D ECA D E S, A N D FO R G O O D R E ASO N . With its Parisian bistro vibe and amazing service, Le Marais has been serving up solid fare in the same location for years. Whether you are stopping in for a quick bite before a Broadway show (servers often ask diners if they need to be out by a certain time, and they always make sure to comply) or taking the family out for a special occasion, Le Marais can’t be beat. They are most known for their steak frites — a basic ribeye, perfectly crispy fries and a simple side salad for under $40. The menu has largely been the same for years (if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!), and their other entreés, hamburgers and classic appetizers are always consistent — classic steakhouse comfort food done
right. One of the most underrated items on the menu is the “Salade de Confit de Canard,” a frisée salad with pickled shallots and crunchy fried potatoes, tossed in a light vinaigrette and topped with a confit duck leg. It's a classic, and we make sure to order it every time we go. In this month's “Bringing Something New to the Table” column, Heshy Jay shares his take on this classic salad with a few fun updates. Now you can try his version and experience the magic for yourself.
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
A N E L E VAT E D TA K E ON MODERN M E X I CA N C U I S I N E BY: C H A N A Z . W E I SS E V E N T P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: M E N D I K R I E F ( @ M E N D I K .7 70 )
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rom the moment you walk into Ondas, you’re hit with a warm energy that is distinctly Latin, where the bold flavors of Mexico are served with the level of refinement you’d expect to find in a classic fine-dining establishment. Palm leaf prints, oversized woven basket lighting and macrame wall hangings instantly create a resort-like atmosphere. Every detail in the space feels intentional, and yet nothing about Ondas was initially part of the founders’ vision. The space was
intended to be a New York location of the popular Fuego restaurant in Miami, FL. “We had all of the plans in place to open another Fuego in the Five Towns,” recounts Avi Bitton, who owns and manages the restaurant along with two other partners. However, their plans took a turn mid-construction when they realized that there were other new establishments in the area that would be far too similar to the concept they had been working on. “We knew we couldn’t open a restaurant that would compete directly with other places in the same neighborhood,” says Avi. “We took this www.fleishigs.com
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
as a sign to rethink everything and come up with something entirely unique.” The decision to scrap the original concept and create something completely new led to the birth of Ondas, an upscale Mexican eatery unlike any other kosher restaurant in the United States. Both Avi and his partner Mark Aquinin come from Latin backgrounds, so embracing this new direction just felt right. “High-end Mexican cuisine is extremely popular right now, and we wanted to bring that to the kosher dining audience,” says Avi. Still, the late change added new layers
of complexity to their plans. “Instead of duplicating Fuego’s success, we had to design an entirely new menu at an elevated level,” he adds. The name Ondas translates to “vibes” in Spanish, encapsulating the core of the restaurant’s philosophy. “We called it Ondas by Fuego, which basically means ‘Fuego Vibes,’ and I think people recognized that right away,” explains Avi. “From day one, Fuego has been associated with a good time, and we wanted to bring some of that Latin warmth from Florida to New York,” adds Mark. Every detail is
designed to foster a warm and lively atmosphere. To achieve this, the team thought through every aspect of the restaurant, from the menu and decor to the lighting and music. “It’s not just dinner — we want you to have fun,” says Mark. “You already paid for the babysitter, you're already out. You might as well have a good time and enjoy the food, as well as the ambience and the music.” The Ondas menu is a true testament to the group’s dedication to innovation in the kosher market. The partners worked closely with their JANUARY 2025 Fleishigs
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The following restaurant guide serves as a collaborative space and contains advertorial material. All kosher certifications listed are as of press time. All meat restaurants listed are Glatt Kosher and all dairy restaurants listed are Cholov Yisroel; consult with a local kosher authority to determine if the kosher status is of your standards. Fleishigs Magazine takes no responsibility for the changing of kosher certification; always check an establishment's active kosher status before dining.
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RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
A N I G H T O F FO O D, MUSIC AND C E L E B R AT I O N BY: C H A N A Z . W E I SS P H OTO G R A P H Y BY: YS.V I S I O N A N D A B BY SO P H I A
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t’s not every day that you attend a restaurant opening and end up singing, dancing and toasting to a new bride and groom. But that is exactly what happened at the grand opening of Nomé New York, the newest restaurant from Mocha Group by owner Naftali Abenaim, at an evening dedicated to celebrating the new restaurant as well as the release of the Distant Cousins’ new album, “Out of the Darkness.” Located in lower Manhattan, Nomé is not just a restaurant; it’s a lively celebration of food, life and culture.
Naftali Abenaim envisioned Nomé as a place where people could come together to enjoy delicious food, great music and good company. “Union Square is an eclectic blend of cultures, and I wanted Nomé to be a part of that energy — offering something unexpected, vibrant and authentic,” he explains. At Nomé, the culinary focus is on Nikkei cuisine, a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. “Nikkei cuisine is about embracing two rich cultures and finding harmony in the unexpected combinations that www.fleishigs.com
RESTAURANT CHRONICLES
arise when they come together,” says Naftali. “What sets Nomé apart is our commitment to freshness, creativity and precision. Our approach to cooking is simple: use the finest ingredients and let them speak for themselves. Whether it's fish flown in from Japan or local farm vegetables, we treat each ingredient with respect.” Executive Chef Santiago Chiuz brings his passion for global flavors and innovative dining experiences to Nomé’s kitchen. Chef Santiago grew up in Honduras and earned degrees
in Culinary Arts and Restaurant Management from the School of Culinary Arts El Salvador. Early in his career, he was fortunate to consult on local and international food projects with the government and local embassy, which broadened his desire to move beyond his native country. He brought his experience to Miami, where he worked as the Executive Chef at several renowned restaurants. An avid traveler and lifelong student of food and culture, Chef Santiago now brings his skill and culinary repertoire to his newest role at Nomé,
delivering a Nikkei-style menu, a blend of Japanese and Peruvian cuisines balanced together with his Latin American heritage. Each dish is presented with a stunning visual flair, making the dining experience as much a feast for the eyes as it is for the palate. The restaurant’s interior design is equally impressive, with a unique and multi-cultural aesthetic. The newly renovated space features a striking entryway adorned with greenery and cascading wax from dozens of lit candles, as well as hand-drawn JANUARY 2025 Fleishigs
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FRANCHISE
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FRANCHISE
Smash House:
A Kosher Franchise Revolution BY: S H I F R A K L E I N
In the ever-evolving world of kosher dining, some innovators dare to push boundarie s. One such figure is B enji Haimoff, the mastermind behind Smash Hous e, a growing kosher franchise that’s turning he ads and shaking up the kosher fast food scene. But the road to succe ss has been any thing but e asy. Benji’s journey from jewelr y to kosher food is a te st ament to re silience, cre ativity and an unwavering commitment to quality.
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