YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
TRENDING
FUR UPROAR
With spring in full blossom, it’s time to
The highly debatable conversation in fashion has existed since times
embrace a fresh wardrobe with SS’15
immemorial. Zhivali gets down to the bottom of the topic and finally
trends!
puts an end to this cacophony.
Page 4
PFW COUTURE Dive into a fantasy.
Page 11-12
TALE OF THE BIRKIN The holy grail of bags!
Page 13
PAUL ANDREWS The new force in footwear.
Page 5
TREE CHANGE DOLLS The current sensation...
Page 7
Page 1
ART OF SUSHI Do as the Japanese do...
Page 15
TAKING A FOOD SELFIE?
Zhivali teaches you how!
Page 15
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
FUR UPROAR Image Credits: Pinterest
The highly debatable conversation in fashion has existed since times immemorial. Some embrace it while others disgrace it. Zhivali gets down to the bottom of the topic and finally puts an end to this cacophony.
R
ight from the dawn of civilization, the records of which can be dated back to the caveman era, man has worn fur. Of course back then, the term ‘fashion’ was not even thought of, it was all about the survival of the fittest. In the absence of technology, animal hide was the only means of protecting oneself. This had led to the discovery that fur and leather was a great resource when it came to clothing. Had it not been for these resources, the plight of our forefather’s survival would’ve been very bleak in the critical environmental conditions back then. So now that one is living in the sophisticated twenty-first century, are you trying to challenge and question the very resource our forefathers used for their survival? Think about it. The most common question raised when it comes to wearing fur in fashion is, “Oh, you’re killing animals! Isn’t that cruel?” Well, how about questioning each sector that exploits animal resources whether its animal testing for scientists or dairy farming that caters to million people every day. At the end of the day, one thing is clear that just because you can physically feel and touch the animal on a garment doesn’t mean the pain endured before it got served to a non-vegetarian was any less. The fact is that animals cannot communicate by themselves and neither can they take independent decisions. Every interaction between man and animal is a one-way communication. Man and animal need each other to co-exist, there needs to be a balance. Imagine the impact of the world turning vegetarian, the population of farm animals would be an unstoppable mess leading to an upset food chain. Similarly fur uses the skin as a resource rather than the meat. It uses the animal nonetheless but just a different facet. Despite being an avid animal lover, when it comes to the rational approach (and not emotional aspect of it), I support the use of fur in fashion. People need to stop stressing over the emotional aspect and get moving. With intellect given only to man in the entire animal kingdom, its time to put it to some use. Fur once worn for survival is now also worn as a statement on the runway. What is the fuss all about? If it really had to be shunned, it should been done right at the start. The outfits are ultra-cozy and stand the test of time when it comes to durability. Just like other body parts, fashion utilizes the skin so nothing goes to waste. The animal is killed anyway. With Fendi venturing into Haute Fourrure, it seems inevitable that come what may but fur in fashion will never go out of sight. Karl Lagerfeld, the creative vision behind the Italian luxury brand equally defends the use of fur in fashion. In a bitter spat with the Peta UK Director Mimi Bekhechi, he mentioned, “It’s very easy to say no fur, no fur, no fur, but it’s an industry. Who will pay for all the unemployment of the people if you suppress the industry of the fur? The hunters in the north for the sable, they have no other job, there is nothing else to do. Those organizations who are much against it, they are not Bill Gates,” he added. However, dark alleys exist in every field where unnecessary exploitation takes place. Fur and leather should not be resourced at the cost of the declining population. Animal sustainability is equally important. There should be special reserves meant only for those purposes. Poaching is an absolute NO. Designers should only resource materials from places that follow ethical practices while procuring the animal. People need to rethink and expand their mindsets about notions created blindly by mass-movements rather their own instincts. Regulatory bodies should provide fair and neutral viewpoints of the same and work towards the betterment of this growing industry with caution to prevent over-exploitation.
1
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
HONOURING THE LEGEND: ALEXANDER McQUEEN If there were a higher resting place than heaven, it would be McQueen’s. This man’s endless contribution to a lifetime in fashion deserves limitless applause. It has only been five years since the demise of the highly accomplished designer. He showed beauty in the detested and often paired contrasting elements like fragility with strength, tradition with modernity and fluidity with severity. McQueen always delivered a deep emotional outpour when it came to his garments, often leading to conflicts with the media. The element of theatricality was something which was always present in his shows. The designer was known to seamlessly blur the lines between fashion and art. He was often inspired by nature, dark and edgy themes, and politically driven elements that have been showcased during his collections. The master of Avant garde would also feature unconventional silhouettes with quirky materials were bones, glass, leather, brocade, shells, feathers etc. (Let’s not get into the little nitty-gritties of McQueen’s great accomplisments or this article would run into pages.) Moving forward, in honour of the legacy that McQueen left behind, New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art held an elaborate display, ‘Savage Beauty’ with 244 garments that spanned his 18 year career in the year 2011. It instantly became one of the most popular exhibits of the museum (That had to happen, obviously).To complete against historic exhibits definitely speaks leaps and bounds about the designer’s accomplishments. Although McQueen’s fame made him globally renown, his heart always lay in London. He once stated, “London’s where I was brought up. It’s where my heart is and where I get my inspiration.” Infact when his work was showcased in 2011, it caused quite an agitation among Londoners and thousands signed a petition for Savage Beauty to be brought to London. Finally, the announcement for Savage Beauty in V&A Museum was made last April. The exhibits boasts of being one of a kind with several sections divided on the basis of themes. The Cabinet of Curiosities is about the size of a room with 27 screens that present captured moments from his wackiest shows with the robot sprayed dress placed at the center. Pepper’s Ghosts drifts you to an alternate world into the finale of Widows of Culloden collection. It creates an illusionary effect that tricks the eye into seeing Kate Moss, a reminder of the floating holographic he did for his show. Among all the various exhibits, the Romantic Primitivism gallery catches the eye as several fake bones in one space reminds one about the depository for the bones of the dead. These were some among the many themes showcased for Savage Beauty. Lastly, iconic pieces created during the reign of McQueen have been exhibited. The garments showcased remind us of a true work of art and fashion which exudes great thought and even better craftsmanship skills. His spirit still lies within the creations resting inside the Savage Beauty exhibits. The garments alone speak and stand for his identity. They are conceptually strong which have a voice for themselves, they are very ‘McQueen’ Image Credits: Pinterest
REASONS CHANEL WILL ALWAYS REMAIN A CLASSIC BEING BOLD “The most courageous act is still to think for yourself. Aloud”
If there is a woman who has truly inspired the world with her way of life and action, it would be Coco Chanel. Known by the world for her iconic discoveries and work ethics, she is a true inspiration in any field of life. Despite being born in an era of chauvinistic society, the rebel at heart managed to leave a legacy behind in fashion. An iconic figure of the 21st Century, Coco was a passionate, rebellious, feisty and uncompromising. A woman leagues ahead of her time, here are reasons why Chanel would totally fit in today’s world:
Just like anyone of us, Chanel didn’t realize her ambitions at first. Before venturing into fashion, Coco was a cabaret singer. Desiring to live a life of stardom, she fled to the town of Moulins in attempts to become successful. However, things did not work that way and she smartly realized it soon after. She didn’t lose hope, instead this experience allowed her to focus and realize exactly what she wanted in life.
PASSION & PERSISTENCE “Gentleness doesn’t get work done, unless you happen to be a hen laying eggs” Passion and relentlessness went hand in hand when Chanel spent endless hours working at the atelier. She detested
Sundays as seamstresses had a day off. She willingly channeled her energy into her work and worshipped it whole-heartedly (Even if it meant re-stitching a shoulder twenty-seven times). It was perfection for her and nothing less. The only thing that fuelled her was passion.
BEING A WOMAN “Keep your heels, head and standards high” With modern-day wars blindly being waged by women on feminism, many have forgotten the meaning of the word altogether. A feminist at heart, she desired and managed to live life on her own terms with independence in a ‘man’s world’. At the same time she loved to be hard to get with men and enjoyed her feminine side with an element of mystery. She was complete in all aspects as human and defied notions or the way of life based on gender.
ON TIME “A girl should be two things: Who and what she wants” Despite having everything wired to the second, producing collections season after season, Chanel would always manage to create time for leisure pursuits. She would often indulge in horse riding, yachting, fly fishing and other activities. If a woman of such stamina could do it all and still be successful, why do we not give ourselves enough time? Think over it. Image Credits: Google Images
2
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
WE’RE GAGA OVER THE LADY Image Credits: Vogue
Stefani Joanne Angelina Germanotta was just another person but with a vision to transform the world. There was a time when she was all alone and no one believed in her dreams. Today, she has the whole world at her feet and a jaw dropping fan following who now embrace her for her persona. She is a leading influence in the world of fashion, art & music. She sets trends and the whole world follows. She always follows her heart in whatever she does. At the same time behind the limelight she works towards humanity and a better world. Let’s dive into her not-so-known story. Stefani was born on March 28, 1986, in New York City.Raised a Roman Catholic, she attended the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a private all-girl Roman Catholic school .Music was right by her from the very start when she began playing the piano at the age of four, later composing her first piano ballad at thirteen. Her mother encouraged her to apply to New York University’s Tisch School of the Arts for a musical theatre training conservatory. Gaga withdrew at the age of 19 to focus on her musical career Her father agreed to pay her rent for a year, on the condition that she re-enroll at Tisch if unsuccessful. She settled in a small apartment on Rivington Street towards the summer of 2005. She also began a band called the SGBand with some friends from NYU. SGBand reached their career peak at the 2006 where Wendy Starland, a musician, appeared as a talent scout for music producer Rob Fusari. During the struggle phase to find one’s path. She became increasingly experimental fascinating herself with emerging neo-burlesque shows, go-go dancing at bars dressed in litte more than a bikini in addition to experimenting with drugs this is when she met performance artist Lady Starlight, who helped mold her on-stage persona.
Like SGBand, the pair soon began performing at many of the downtown club venues Soon after, the two were invited to play at the 2007 Lollapalooza music festival in August that year. The show was critically acclaimed, and their performance received positive reviews. While Gaga and Starlight were busy performing, producer Rob Fusari continued to work on the songs he had created with Gaga. Fusari sent these songs to, producer and record executive Vincent Herbert. Herbert was quick to sign her to his label Streamline Records which was later acquired by Sony/ATV Music Publishing; Gaga subsequently struck a music publishing deal with Sony/ATV. “THE FAME” was her first breakthrough album where the themes of her songs revolve around the experience of celebrity and the fame that tails along it.It won the Grammy award for “Best Electronic/ Dance Album” which was an astounding feat for a woman of her age. “THE FAME MONSTER” released in 2008 where each song dealt with the darker side of fame from personal experience. It was expressed through a monster metaphor. It made her the first artist in digital history to have three singles to pass the four million mark in digital sales, its lead single “Bad Romance” topped the charts in eighteen countries and reached the top two in the US, Australia and New Zealand. The “Born this way album” has been described as a marriage of electronic music with metal, rock ‘n’ roll, pop and anthem style melodies with sledge-hammering dance beats. It was all about being who you are and being damn proud of it. One of her famous tracks bad romance has been viewed over 300 million times! In that video Gaga wears shoes designed by alexander mc queen the armadillo heals as a tribute to their friendship. McQueen loved her oddness and strangeness and really
believed in her and was one of her inspirations. She is the first star in the world to rename her fans; she calls them little monsters as a sign of recognition. The objective of the monster ball is not for them to worship her but to be worshipping themselves. This is what her third album “Born This Way” is all about. It’s about reality and fantasy. In her childhood she would dress very 90s: low cut pants, tons of makeup. She adores trash glamour. Her favourite thing about dressing up is mixing things that are very elegant with things that are very trashy. She loves to liberate herself with the ability to change and be transformative. A highly creative individual that she is, all the nitty gritties of a performance right from the costumes, the choreography, and the direction everything is done by Gaga for breathtaking visuals. She is best known for her avant garde in fashion. One of their directorial debuts Judas was from the Haus of Gaga where they came up with the lipstick gun; other such innovations were disco stick in love game. The mini mouse glasses in paparazzi, the telephone hat, and the cigarette glasses in telephone or even the egg she cracked out of in the 2011 Grammy awards.This is why she loves fashion so much because she feels she can spin an alternate reality and fantasy for herself that if she does it over and over again every single day of her life falling asleep in her wigs makeup her jewellery somehow the fantasy becomes her reality. She fought so hard for anyone to believe in her and now that she is here and people believe in her she won’t give it up for anything. She likes to know that she can define her fame and define her beauty for herself. That is who she is and how she will always be that way. She is relentless and vicious and fearless because baby she was born this way. 3
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
TRENDING Image Credits: Vogue UK
With spring in full blossom, its time to embrace a fresh wardrobe keeping in mind the trends of the season.From donning denim for everyday chic to going retro-glam with metallic, Zhivali takes a stroll through Spring/Summer 2015:
DRESS IT WITH
HIPPIE-CHIC
JAPANESE
METALLICS
FLORALS
DENIM
It’s time to swing back in the Seventies, as the Hippie style makes a comeback! With breezy flowing outfits in light fabrics, the trend is ideal to take the heat this summer! From tassels to fringe to psychedelic prints, it is a throwback to the good old days! We had Etro, Alberta Ferretti and Valentino showcase some summer romance as they embraced the decade of the Seventies.
With eastern silhouettes being the current trend these days, designers have showcased them in their own unique ways. Japan has always been a favorite reference point for designers with garments inspired from kimonos, obi belts to oriental patterns.Alexander McQueen, Celine & Marni were some of the many designers who followed the trend this season.
Shine with the times this season as the glamorous disco era of the Seventies is back in full swing! With shimmering metallic making a bold yet sultry statement, it’s time to embrace retro-glamour in style! An ideal trend for the night birds out there! Tom Ford’s show oozed sex appeal this season as the spirit of Aphrodite landed on the runway.
A recurring trend every season, what’s spring without florals? Wear it subtle and soft or loud and bold, It adds to a sense of romance and elegance. A classic that can never go out of style, the trend was seen on the runways of Chanel, Simon Rocha & Manish Arora.
It seems classics like denim will never go out of style be it patchwork or versatile pants from baggy to skin-fit to crop. Details like lacework, and rhinestones can add to a dressier denim appeal. It stands for the everyday effortless look. The trend was seen on the runways of Gucci, Burberry & Sonia Rykiel.
LET’S PLAY MAGICAL CHAIRS In a flurry of a moment, things have shaken up a bit in the fashion fraternity. It has seen legendary designers behind the success of high-end luxury brands voluntarily or involuntarily step back from their creative roles and announce their successors. The year of 2015 has descended with shocks and surprises. While Oscar de la Renta’s demise left the industry in tears, others like Frida Giannini’s sudden departure just before the
AW’2015 collection left people clueless about what was to come. It also saw a comeback of John Galliano, an acclaimed designer whose antiSemitic remarks left him in soup where his career was concerned. He was later given a second chance as he assumed role of Creative Director of Maison Margiela. Fashion is surely enjoying it’s share of magical chairs. Things have been shuffled a bit but the notion of fashion has driven further with
change. What is fashion without change? Fashion talks about a moment lived in time, times are changing, and so is fashion. That’s the very beauty of it. It constantly evolves into a higher being of itself. There will always been aversions down the road, but change is the only conqueror. Its time to embrace change with an open mind. As Anna Wintour quotes, “Fashion is about moving forward, not looking back.” It would be
unfair on my part to hide how I detested change at one point in fashion. It was the year 2010 when his assistant, Sarah Burton, took Alexander McQueen’s unattainable position. There was no justification for the emotions I expressed when we lost such talent that year. The thought to have someone replace McQueen seemed absolutely cringe worthy. But we often forget, it is not the designer we like, but moreover the soul that transports in the brand.
The essence, the attitude and more importantly the clothes are what should speak for the brand.Looking at the broader picture, without evolution, the brand is stagnant. There is nothing to look forward to, as we would always expect the same. There’s nothing without risk. For now, we we are just a spec in time dwelling in the timeline of the brand that has a lot to offer tomorrow.
4
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
PAUL ANDREWS: THE NEW FORCE IN FOOTWEAR Image Credits: Paul Andrews Online
Move over Manolos & Louboutins, there’s another ‘Shoe God’ (if I may call it) in town. Before setting up his own label, Paul Andrews had spent more than a decade working with some of the biggest names in the business. From the Avante-garde league of Alexander McQueen to the minimalist aesthetic of Calvin Klein, his resume is as polished as fine leather (no pun intended). This relatively young designer is definitely the new force in footwear. The latest thing in town, the brand has made it’s presence felt in the highly competitive luxury market.
M
ARSALA ANIA
C As though his above mentioned accomplishments weren’t enough, he had also won the 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Award to seal the deal. It’s a great feat for a man his age! His luxury shoe line was launched for Spring 2013. The designer has a dual approach when it comes to shoes. Not only does he focus on developing unique and sexy creations through spotless handmade craftsmanship, but he also goes in-depth when it comes to comfort and adopting the latest technology.
urrently trending colour of 2015, Marsala is making headlines in the fashion domain.It is the official pantone shade of the year which is named after fortified red wine. Marsala has an earthy touch with a sense of opulence. The implication lies somewhere between looking royal and rustic. Ideal for both cool and warm skin tones, the trend can be carried off globally without fashion police’s warrant.
Zhivali recommends accessoring Marsala this season as an accent to the overall look. Whether it’s a romantic date or red-carpet event, one easily carry this shade off. From luscious lips, flushed cheeks to earthy nails, the subtle yet opulent shade is a must have in your beauty-closet. It’s time to hit the beauty haven Sephora for some great makeup options. Get spoilt for choice in lipcolours and select between sheer, matte or pigmented. Stroke some blush on for gorgeous in the making. Nails are another great way to flaunt them in effortless style. Although the shade can be worn throughout the season, winter shall surely find a peak in this trend due to Marsala’s richness and warm colour intensity. After a thorough lesson on the current raging trend, its hightime to get updated with the hottest colour of the year!
There is a certain character when you look at Paul Andrew shoes. When it comes to the DNA of the brand, he states, “I like to think that it has a sexy, refined, elegant look. It’s really summed up with that single sole and that stiletto silhouette. For me, it’s a new, simple elegance.”
Image Credits: Pinterest
His collections have been the latest rage in tinsel town. Worn by the likes of Sarah Jessica Parker, Lupita Nyongo to the fashionable women of high-society, the footweardesigner surely means business when it comes to Fashion. A highly talented individual, the brand seems sure to stay!
5
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
MAKEUP MUST-HAVES FOR YOUNG ADULTS Image Credits: Pinterest
1
LIPSTICK
Is there any girl who can stop drooling over her signature red lipstick? I really doubt. While there are a diverse range of lipstick shades available, one should choose a shade that work best in accordance to their skin tones. MAC, Bobby Brown & Chanel are a few good options to choose from. The absolute must have shade is red, it is timeless and a classic component in makeup.
2 MASCARA
Nothing accentuates the eye more than the mascara. Simple and elegant, it makes them the hero as it shifts the focus around that area. Just one or two applications and you are set for the day! Zhivali recommends: Benefit s ‘they’re Real’/ Clinique Long lash doubling Mascara.
3
EYE LINER
A very versatile and handy element for women of all ages, the eyeliner accentuates the eye and makes them look gorgeous. One can don the ‘cat eye’, ‘Egyptian’ and various other looks as per one’s mood and the occasion. Zhivali recommends: Makeup Forever Liquid Liner
4
MAKEUP BASE
While many still opt for foundation, I personally recommend tinted moisturizers as they are easy on the skin, have SPF and look more natural and less cakey. The main idea is to look as natural as possible, tinted moisturizers work best. Zhivali recommends: Inglot’s ‘Tinted Moisturizer’
5
3. BRONZER
As ‘au naturale’ as it could get, the bronzer is a must buy makeup essential. It can be lightly dusted on the cheeks, forehead, the jaw line to highlight your features. A diagonal stroke on the cheek bone can help contour the face even further. It should be applied after a base to make it look even or else result in a patchy disaster. Zhivali recommends: Maybeline Mineral Power Bronzer
6
PIGMENT EYE SHADOW
The ultimate statement for all the party birds out there, it works brilliantly for evening occasions. Wearing them in the day can be quite the unwanted disaster. You need to apply a primer as a base before applying these crushed pigments of ecstasy for the ultra glam look. Zhivali recommends: MAC Crushed eye pigments
6
MAY 1, 2015
YOURS TRULY
CURRENT SENSATION: TREE CHANGE PROJECT
Image Credits: Vogue
F
or decades, the impact of dolls on children has always been a controversial debate amidst media & parents worldwide. The makers of Mattel dolls have stirred several controversial conflicts in the past for the cultural & sexual ideations their dolls created on young children.
IN VOGUE: THE EDITOR’S EYE If there’s a magazine with an immaculate representation of fashion and reality, it’s the ‘V’ word. A fashion bible in every sense, it is an absolute reflection of women, fashion and society since 1892. It has played a critical role in keeping pace with the constantly changing sense of fashion and individuality.
yourstrulyzhivali.com
Then in the year 2015, came along the Tree Change Project that has completely changed and reshaped the notions of dolls altogether. An initiate by Sonia Singh, founder of Tree Change Dolls, aims at giving a new lease of life to discarded dolls by the process of up cycling. Something that started out as a leisure hobby for Sonia soon became viral all over the Internet. With an ardent interest in dolls since an early age, Sonia took this hobby a notch higher by giving complete fashion make-under to the tattered
As Vogue celebrated twelve decades in fashion in 2012, it came up with a fascinating documentary that essentially captured the backbone behind the billion-dollar industry, the back-end at Vogue. Behind every glossy fashion spread that throws one into a tizzy takes months of research and preparation. It is a wealthy storehouse of highly conceptualized fashion images, something Vogue is known for. No one captures it better than Vogue and no one visualizes it better than its editors.
The brand’s social media on Facebook is flooded with people’s positive comments and requests for dolls, which is usually very limited due to high demand. As far as business is concerned, Sonia is more fueled by passion more than anything else. Sharing her passion on YouTube through basic tutorials is something very rarely practiced by brands but she thinks differently. Not losing focus of what she started, the element of artistry remains consistent throughout her dolls. A simple initiative like this can go miles across in hopes of a better world. Passionate Individuals like these not only resonate with people but also change fickle mindsets. Adding value to something already used or discarded to an extent that it becomes a frenzy is truly remarkable. Image Credits: Tree Change Blog
Vogue is more than a magazine. It’s about celebrating now, moving forward, embracing change and what’s a better medium than fashion. Whether conjured or spontaneous, each picture has a story to tell. It creates a unique space that can’t be reached but can be lived through a moment in a photograph. A fantasy through fashion that can take you places you’ve never been without going there. There is a certain beauty to it. With fashion being so universal now, there is a certain connect that is established yet interpreted in a unique sense by individuals. Vogue constantly challenges and pushes forth the concepts of fashion through its magazine. The documentary celebrates and lauds the Vogue team, especially its editors by showing us a glimpse into their lives, their aesthetics and work styles. What makes this highly dysfunctional family so close-knit despite individualistic perspectives on fashion is their passion to drive it further in unexplored realms with confidence. The documentary recollects some of Vogue’s most intimate moments through shared experiences of past and present Editors. Being a cultural influence to the globe, the documentary also dives into the history behind the ups and downs of Vogue. Zhivali highly recommends this documentary to boost every fashion enthusiast out there with motivation and confidence. It’s a rich insight into the world of Vogue and how it functions. It delves into the making behind some of its iconic shoots, the thought process and the work that goes behind it.
dolls she would get from secondhand stores. Personal attention would be given to each of the dolls from the time they were bought. Each Tree Change Dolls was created from scratch. From mending broken arms and legs to removing the factory paint makeup traces off the faces, the process was rather arduous. The idea was to create dolls that looked natural, more realistic and relatable to children. Each piece created is individualistic and has a character, unlike mass-made factory dolls. With the help from her mother, Sonia gets little outfits knitted for each of her dolls with no repeated designs. It’s as bespoke as it could get.
An initiate by Sonia Singh, Tree
founder Change
of Dolls
who aims at giving a new lease of life to discarded dolls by the process of up cycling.
The response received for this project has been an overwhelming one. Never in her wildest dreams, did Sonia ever imagine the impact and uproar she created with her doll revolution. It is slowly changing perceptions of these dolls in terms of cultural and social aspect of it. She is glad to have influenced so many people worldwide.
7
MAY 1, 2015
YOURS TRULY
yourstrulyzhivali.com
DON’T FAKE IT
Image Credits: Harper’s Bazaar
As much as I drool over Chanel, Fendi, and Louis Vuitton is as much I cringe when I see them being sold as ‘commodities’ at flea markets. The concept of fakes is not something new or unheard of, but the thought of it makes my blood boil. Call me ‘stuckup’, ‘light-headed’ or ‘pricy’ but I detest (with an underline) the billion-dollar industry, which revolves around the circulation of fakes. Why do we desire these brands anyway? When we go for the crème de la crème of luxury brands, we buy them not for the product but for its heritage (one of the many reasons for their escalated prices). On purchasing a product, one can actually feel and associate with the great tales and legends around the brand, which is so inspiring. However, not everyone gets the message. It’s sad to see the invasion of fakes taken over the globe. With the net worth of this illegal industry rising year after year, the rate at which fakes are blending in with the authentic market is rather horrifying. How does buying a fake make up for even half the happiness of owning an original? The answer to this will be hollow and the feeling evoked will never be a satisfied one. There’s more to the product than its price, it’s a completely different emotion, which is not an outward expression. There are two kinds of victims in this billion-dollar industry. First, the ones who buy them knowing it’s a fake and what they’re in for. Before I proceed, I need to correct myself and call them law-breakers. Their
actions aren’t justifiable in any way. Luxury brands aren’t just brands, they are a force to be reckoned with. It needs to be respected for its history and handcrafted finesse. The real victims in this mess are those who aspire to own such brands but cannot afford the steep prices. Instead, they opt for second-hand originals but are duped into buying fakes at a few hundred dollars cheaper, Their intention of buying an “original” at a second-hand rate isn’t wrong. They are just doing this out of the practicality aspect. The mistake is the source they trust, which like hundred others aren’t always genuine. Moving on, victims like these will buy products faithfully. They will strut them around, never to realize or question its originality. Even if they do so, many at times the outcomes of such realizations are of no use. Thousands like these are trapped everyday at alarming rates. Con artists and cunning businessmen lurk in every nook and corner waiting for baits. Education is key here. Precautions as mentioned below can definitely go a long way reducing chances of falling into the trap. Here are a few ways one can avoid falling into the fake racket:
RESEARCH
Before investing a lump sum amount in a fancy handbag or an outfit for that matter, do tonnes of research. With the convenience of the digital world these days, one can look into all the little details very carefully. From the material to the measurement, one must have a keen eye while inspecting the actual product presented.
ONLINE SHOPPING
I would recommend keen shoppers to avoid online shopping as much as possible. The result does not always match the what-you-seeis-what-you-get interface. There is always an element of doubt even with second-hand goods, as the element of origin remains dubious. However one may find a few trusted websites like Net-a-Porter and portero.com, which are trusted for their genuine products.
LEATHER SPEAKS IT ALL
Many at times the bags manufactured are not pure leather. If it doesn’t smell or feel like leather, the authencity ends right there with a full stop.
CHECK YOUR DEALER
When you’re buying resale, the highest bets should be placed on the dealer. While browsing online, check the feedback provided by past customers. If you like a particular product then enquire for more pictures of the same. Many at times, the picture posted is borrowed and you’re buying it by the picture.
CAMPAIGN CRIME
AGAINST
How does buying a fake make up for even half the joy attained while
owning
an
original? There’s more to the product
than
its
price, owning it is a completely emotion
different altogether,
not an outward fickle expression.
THE
You don’t need to be a politician; all you need is awareness and your actions to spread it around. Discourage your peers from engaging in such purchases. If you spot shady dealers then do your bit and report it to the concerned authorities. You will feel more dignified and connected to the brand that captures the special spot in your heart!
8
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
VICTORIA’S SECRET WAS OUT IN LONDON Probably one of the most anticipated shows of the year, the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show 2014 definitely was a great successful showcase. With 47 models walking the runway along with a pool of highly talented performers under one roof, this was their biggest yet. Known for their desirable lingerie and the hard-to-stop-drooling props, Victoria’s Secret never fails to deliver dreams to women all over the world. While I sat here streaming the show on Youtube,I couldn’t help imagine myself sitting front row witnessing this fantasy come alive on the runway. The runway was streaming with lights, building the anticipation for the show, making the wait worth waiting for. The backdrop started with this insane golden light projections as though fueling energy to the angels and all those around. Wings are iconic take a year to assemble and consist of feathers, sparkle and intricate hand work. The show started with the ‘Gilded angels’ segment. The lineup started with lingerie in soft and subtle shades working its way from an elegant look to bold metallic. It got bigger and better in 2014. The angel wings were golden as though to place the angels on a ‘goddess’ pedestal. They were heavenly. The props always add a whole new dimension to the overall look. The wings are a signature element of the show and take a year’s work to assemble. They consist of feather, sparkle and intricate hand work. Then came along a dream drifting on the runway. Taylor Swift starred in the ‘Dream girl’ segment. Lingerie was predominantly in light lace in soft pastel shades. The wings looked like fluffy cotton candy or clouds that took flight to fantasy. It was very whimsical and magical. They walked in like a day dream. The next segment took lingerie to the epitome of luxury and far beyond. The ‘Exotic Traveller”. Adriana Lima and Alessandra Ambrosio sent us into a trance with the highly bejeweled fantasy bras. Lingerie displayed in this segment were in brighter colours like red, yellow, turquoise, pink paired with colorful accessorizing. The accessories had a variety of materials from feather, fluffy pom-poms to the works. It surely stuck to the theme and ignited the gypsy spirit within us. Ariana Grande not only stole the show with her stunning performance but also with her hot two-piece black shimmer outfit. She kept the audience entertained in the ‘University of Pink’ segment. The outfits overall embodied the athletic and sporty look. The colours on the runway were predominantly pink (obviously), white, black, silver. It consisted of fun and funky prints as well. Then came along the ‘Fairy tale’ segment which was all about a beautiful dream in the woods. Hozier sang his top track ‘Bring me to Church’. This segment saw the angels drift smoothly into the world of their dreams. Soft lingerie predominantly in white and other pastel shades were like every girl’s dream come true. There was of course lots of sparkle on the wings, elevating the fantasy further. The well orchestrated show ended with the ‘Angel Ball’ segment. It showcased sexy and highly sultry women in black lingerie with the hard-to-miss props. This segment particularly highlighted strength and power of women. Last but not the least, the Grand Finale saw all the angels descend upon the runway cheering and waving their last goodbyes before the next highly anticipated Victoria Secret 2015.
Image Credits: Pinterest
4.
THE FIVE
5
Burberry
5. Peter Pilotto A floral-print top paired with a ballerina inspired skirt with boat canvas shoes.
A single-breated fitted jacket with patch pockets and notched lapels corseted at the waist with a shearling trim paired with a straight-fit sequined skirt ,regular sneakers & patent leather handles.
Image Credits: Google Images, Pinterest
Zhivali picks out 5 looks worth wearing in 2015!
1.
2.
3.
Balmain
Elie Saab
Burberry
An armour inspired babydoll dress with exagerated s h o u l d e r s paired with metallic-toed pumps worn over black ankle length fish net socks.
Embellished boat-neck floor sweeping gown with sheer fabric in the shade of lavender.
Cashmere-knit cardigan with fitted denim pants with flap pockets and a beret.A printed coat with black stocking and high heel boots.
9
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
A FASHION STUDENT’S GUIDE TO WISHFUL THINKING So the life in the role of a fashion student is not as glamorous as an outsider would expect. Some of the common signs include never ending college submissions and endless procrastination. One is constantly waiting for that ‘Creative moment’ to strike, the bell to finally ring and get one’s butt working. It surely is no less than the survival of the fittest here. I am pretty sure most you fashion students feel the same way. Constantly wracking my brains for creative ideas has led me to a point where I have come up with this list of hyper-imaginative things fashion students could really count upon during submissions: Image Credits: Pinterest
1. AN AUTO-REFILLABLE COFFEE/GREEN TEA MUG
For all those endless all-nighters of submissions, if only we had those magical dispensable cups of unlimited caffeine without having to make it ourselves (and save on those few extra precious minutes), it would be of a great help. #Justcannot
2. THE ‘CONTROL + Z’ REMOTE
Being dissolved in the digital world (whether writing articles or photo-shopping pictures) has made me feel like every mistake I make can be so conveniently undone. However it hit me right in the face when I clumsily spilt water on my tedious project. At that moment in time I kept pressing ‘control + Z’ ‘control + Z’ in my mind to later realize my foolishness. If only the real world worked this way. But who knows what the coming decade might come up with! #Feelinghopeful
3. A RECHARGEABLE SLEEP CHARGER
If people could come up with portable phone chargers, why could they not think about the sleep charger? If only we could recharge ourselves with sleep now while we hibernated during the summer holidays, the world would have been a better place. The power of sleep is most valued when deprived during those endless assessments. Even Red Bull wouldn’t stand a chance against this. #Powerofsleep
4. DEADLINE DELAYER
Everyday the same story. Constant alarms constantly nagging and threatening us to wake up on time but failing miserably each day. This probably calls for some sympathy and snoozing our deadlines till a few days or many hours later? (May be I was asking for too much) #Wishfulthinking
5. CREATIVE BANK
We all have great ideas running in the background of our minds, but where do these brilliant ideas disappear when we need them? With the technological era going berserk, perhaps scientists can come up with a creative bank wherein it feeds in all the right ideas in the right frame of time just when we need them and not when we’re just casually strolling in the park. #Ideas I just hope I don’t end up making you guys feel miserable about yourself and life in general. (No pun intended) Yours Truly, Zhivali
10
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS’15 From Dior’s journey through the retro-ages, Giambattista Valli’s whimsical floral dream to Dice Kayek’s structured minimalism, day two at Paris Couture Week S/S’2015 saw designers reflect modernity but with a backbone of tradition to lean on. Image Credits: Vogue UK
CHRISTIAN DIOR The French luxury house displayed luxury to the pinnacle with a modern touch, as the collection was a journey through the retro ages. It ranged from exaggerated hemline skirts reminiscent of the 1950s, bright colorful stripes in yellow, orange, red, blue and green of the 1960s & bright acid-vinyl boots of the modern day era. A lot of embroidery and embellishment was present in the garments. This particular show was nothing like a traditional couture show, Raf Simons brought about a modern spin on it. The idea of Haute Couture was given a new meaning.
GIAMBATTISTA VALLI The couturier kept the collection very chic yet minimal in a colour palate with monochromatic colours paired with soft pastel shades in pink. The collection exuded femininity as it consisted of sheer dresses and skirts, elements of whimsicality as seen in the puffed tulle skirts and was also heavily inspired from nature. Motifs borrowed from nature were quite evident, a tree of life jacquard, a floral rose print, and silk embroidered flowers were some of the naturesque displays.
BOUCHRA JARRAR Forget about the typical embellished pieces that pop in your head when you think ‘haute couture’ and replace it with sleek and sophisticated style. This was exactly what Bouchra Jarrar’s collection was all about. Abundant in hound’s-tooth print and lambskin leather, Bouchra Jarrar combined the elements in a manner to give a sharp look to the ensembles. There were a few bold chest-baring pieces that would have gone along very well with the ‘Free the nipple’ campaign. Feminine fabrics like velvet, lace and animal fox fur were also used to add to the grace and opulence.
Giorgio Armani Prive The Italian luxury brand went oriental this couture season as model walked amidst a faux bamboos jungle. Bamboo print in black and soft water colours was the flavor of the collection. The colour scheme initially was soft and subdued with shades like green tea, pastel blue, olive green, cream and light grey, gradually merging towards a darker palate like black, cerulean blue and white. Sheer pleated skirts, harem pants and anti-fit pants gave a relaxed silhouette. Highly embellished U-necks, gowns, also feathered definitely defined couture while kimono jackets and wide silk belts added a sense of quirk.
Day 3 at Paris Couture Week S/S’2015 saw versatile themes and aesthetics thrown by designers. From Giorgio Armani Prive’s oriental exploration to Bouchra Jarrar’s sleek and sophisticated ensembles, Couture Week in a way rebelled against tradition that it need not 11 always be heavy and embellished but can also be calm and relaxed.
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
PARIS HAUTE COUTURE SS’15 Day 4 of Paris Haute Couture Week witnessed spring in full bloom. From Viktor and Rolf’s floral frenzy to Elie Saab’s ethereal collection, designers delivered dreams on the runway with fine handcrafted garments that were nothing less than perfection. Image Credits: Vogue UK
ELIE SAAB The designer known to make every woman’s dream come was Inspired from his region, Beirut. He brought about the soft glamour of the 60’s. He conjured a beautiful dream from feathers, sequins and sheer silk. It possessed soft romantic pastel shades like pink, steel blue, cream and white. From boat neck to deep plunge lines, the collection had an array of gowns and short dresses that seemed to have come straight from a Disney movie. Some of the highlights of the collection were gowns that had different fabrics dyed and embellished individually to form a patchwork resembling a floating butterfly. The show ended on a spectacular note with an ethereal embellished pastel pink gown with a slight dusting of coral pink and yellow- green.
VIKTOR & ROLF The collection presented by the designer-duo was all about funky bright colors added to a base dark blue floral print. The color scheme comprised of shades like white, ink-blue, light blue, yellow, red and green. The collection started with a hint of color, gradually getting brighter with an increased asymmetrical volume. From floral print to 3-D flowers, this particular collection with a riot of color and flowers brought about a floral frenzy. The look was accessorized with thicksoled flip-flops to complete the look. What really caught our attention was the experimentation with the straw hat and the wheat stalk.
RALPH & RUSSO The designer-duo showcased great elegance and opulence in their haute couture collection. The collection started with soft and dreamy colours in white, cream, light blue, mauve, gradually moving towards black. The showcase started with form fitting dresses pinched at the waist and wide towards the hip that was reminiscent of the ideal age-old feminine silhouette. Playing with structure and drapes, there were pleats, peplums, gowns with capes, high-low dresses. Great attention to detail was paid in terms of embellishment and acute focus on the structure. The highlights of the collection were towards the end with dreamy gowns with drapes almost resembling petals and definitely, the embellished wedding gown.
SERKAN CURA The collection presented by this particular designer was very offbeat & Avant Garde in approach. The colour palate maintained were in shades of neutral tones like black, white, cream along with a dash of colour in steel blue and red. Great emphasis was laid on structure of the garments and innovative use of material. There was a hint of the past with corset structures on the runway. Being an haute-couture show, luxury was displayed at its finest and great generosity was displayed in terms of feathers and fur on the runway.
The epitome of luxury fashion shows finally came to an end with designers like Ralph & Russo whose collection drifted you into a fairytale, Serkan Cura who reshaped couture with a futuristic collection & Zuhair Murad who never lets you stop fantasizing for more.
12
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
THE HOLY GRAIL OF BAGS: BIRKIN BY HERMÈS Image Credits: Google Images
T
he bag belonging to the French luxury house, Hermès, is the epitome of what money can buy. It is the king of all bags ever imagined till date. To put it in simple words, the Birkin for bag lovers is what Anna Wintour is to Vogue. The classic bag is admired and strutted in style by a bevy of actresses and models from the likes of Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian to Miranda Kerr. The iconic bag has quite an iconic history behind it. The idea for the bag came into being in the year 1981. It all happened by fate when young Jane Birkin was on a flight to London. Little did she know that she was seated beside none other than Jean- Louis Dumas (Chief Executive, Hermes). Her straw bag happened to spill all its contents right in front of him (as though the bag was screaming for space). Dumas simply said, “You should have one with pockets”. Unaware of his status, she bluntly said, “The day Hermès make one with pockets I will have that”, and he said: ‘But I am Hermès and I will put pockets in for you’. The rest is history. Jane Birkin was equally involved in the making of the Birkin bag. Not only did she sketch the design of the bag but suggested that the bag should be bigger than the Kelly bag but smaller than Serge’s suitcase. The bag finally came into existence in 1983. The first version of the Birkin came out in black leather. Known for its exclusivity and hefty price tag, it is quite normal for one to place their order 3-4 years in advance due to its high demand but not so high supply. It comes in a variety of exotic skins of alligator, ostrich, lizard, python etc. The price tag starts at around £5,600 and can reach the stars depending on the customizations per the client. The bag is like wine, the longer it’s kept the higher the value. It truly is an asset to every woman’s closet. The Birkin is the ultimate dream bags and evokes such emotion due to its fine craftsmanship skills.
WHAT TO AVOID AT FASHION WEEK! We all love Fashion week don’t we? The buzz and adrenaline pumping in the venue enthralls all those around but sometimes a few people take this energy to a whole new level. Here are a few fashion faux-pas you might want to avoid while attending shows! 1.Don’t try and get your way around with the ‘Do you know who I am’ dialogue because most of the time they wont and this will just embarrass you further and hurt the ego. Don’t even aim towards name-dropping. People don’t care whom you’re familiar with. (And who did you think you were trying to impress?) 2. Everyone wants to attend the show and everyone wants to be there on time so be PATIENT. Stand in a queue in a civilized manner and avoid pushing and shoving, moments before the show gates open. You really wont want to trip on the lady’s dress ahead of you now, would you? 3. Please sit on the seat that is allotted to you unless you want to be publicly sent towards the back when the owner claims his seat. We all want to sit front row but that’s not how it works. However luckily enough if there is a vacant seat then you may ask the nearby usher if the upgrade would be possible.
4. Do not leave the show with someone else’s goodie-bag and later get caught with several more of them when you leave the hall. It’s just not cool. 5. When a celebrity arrives at the venue do NOT run around wrecking havoc like there’s no tomorrow. Trust me its not easy either for the security or the backstage manager. You can adore him/her all you want when you watch the show. That’s why she came in the first place. Request him/her for selfies ONLY when you see she’s idol and not running back-to-back for show changes. 6. Taking more pictures than watching the complete show is a complete disaster. You will never appreciate the true experience of fashion if you’re too busy snapping. So relax, sit back and give yourself a break!
Image Credits: Shefali J. Jauhar
7. Last but not the least pay respect to the designers while watching their show. They have put in months of effort for the 10-minute show. You may not like it and I’m not forcing you to either but you can clap your hands it wouldn’t cost much either.
Yours’ truly Zhivali
13
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
FASHIONABLE DESSERTS FROM THE CHICEST CAPITALS Image Credits: Google Images
There’s something about a dessert that creates a desire like no other. Even after devouring the last bite, the taste lingers on, long enough to crave another. Just like fashion, there are some desserts that never go out of style. They have been there since your grandmother days and continue to be served as classics till today. Here are the top classics from the top fashion destinations that you have to indulge once in your lifetime.
NEW YORK
LONDON
MILAN
PARIS
The city of dreams where life is always on the go has a diversity of multicultural cuisines including desserts for that matter. When you think New York, think the New York Cheesecake. Although the origins of a ‘cheesecake’ are said to have been recorded by henaeus, a Greek writer, in about A.D. 230, New York was where the first cream-cheese cake recipe surfaced. The rest is history. It has made a global presence and is available in any fine patisserie.
The land known for its afternoon tea parties and sumptuous summer parties owns a classic dessert that dates back to the 19th Century. An ideal spring delight, the Eton Mess is a simple yet luscious combination of crushed meringues, whipped cream and juicy strawberries.
A dessert that works for every Coffee addict, the classic Tiramisu is another slice of paradise all together. Comforting, light and packed with flavor, the dish actually means ‘pick me up. The traditional Tiramisu is made from egg yolks, sugar, coffee, mascarpone cheese, cocoa powder and finger biscuits. Nothing like fine Italian dessert at a warm café with some more coffee to go along.
Apart from being the top fashion capital, the city boast of great food.The dessert that tops the list is Mille-Feuille, or ‘thousand leaves’ in English. snowy whipped cream, eggy custard and crisp puff pastry .The French name refers to the innumerable fine pastry layers that are baked to perfection. Velvety pastry cream is sandwiched between the layers that ultimately melts in your mouth at first bite.
DRINKS MADE EASY Illustration Credits: Shefali J. Jauhar
14
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
THE ART OF SUSHI
IImage Credits: Google Images
When it comes to ‘Sushi’, the heart and soul of Japanese cuisine, it can cause some extreme reactions from people. While people like me at any given point of time crave sushi, there are others who cringe at the thought of being served ‘raw food’ or so they say. This feature covers the art of sushi and the nuances around it.
Sashimi: Commonly found at Sushi Restaurants, sashimi is not actually sushi. Sashimi is nothing but finely sliced pieces of raw fish with accompanied with Soy sauce. It is basically nigiri but without the rice.
THIS IS HOW IT ROLLED
While in Japan, do as the Japanese do. Here are a few tips one must follow while seated at a Japanese Fine Dining Restaurant:
Who knew that the ancient practice of preserving fish would soon evolve into one of the hottest selling items of this day and age? Sushi came out the ancient Chinese practice of preserving fish. Around the 1st Century, raw fish would be placed on rice to allow fermentation. Later, the rice would be thrown away leaving the fish edible for longer durations of time. The process spread to Japan around the seventh century and was eaten in a similar fashion till the seventeenth century. Matsumoto Yoshiichi of modern-day Tokyo was the first man to take baby-steps into what we now know sushi as. He began selling seasoned fish with rice and rice wine vinegar which became an instant success. The sushi of contemporary times was invented by Hanaya Yohei. He had revolutionized the production and the aesthetics of sushi. Sushi would be sold in stalls till the WW2 and soon after moved indoors. It soon changed its stature from ‘fast-food’ to fine dining.
THE PERFECT MATCH
KNOW YOUR SUSHI MANNERS
1. It’s rude to rub your chopsticks together. 2. It is always polite to ask the Sushi Chef for recommendations, it shows trust. 3. Each Sushi should ideally be eaten in one bite, avoid breaking it into pieces. 4. When eating Nigiri sushi, always dip from fish’s end and not the rice part. 5. Eat the pieces of pickled ginger before moving onto another sushi dish, it cleanses the palate. 6. Never ask for extra wasabi in your sushi, it otherwise ends up over-powering the delicate fish.
TAKING A FOOD SELFIE?
It may sound all so easy but sushi is an art that needs perfection. It is a balancing act between taste and execution. There are tiny details from the thickness of the rolls to the right amount of fish that can make or break the dish. Often overlooked by sushi amateurs but these little details can cost you a job, especially if you’re a Sushi Chef. An intensive course which takes several years to master, the art of sushi isn’t a piece of cake.
IImage Credits: Google Images
We are a part of this whole new wave of a generation who relish food before it’s even eaten through a picture (Cut me some slack here). Here are some tit-bits to all the snap-chatters out there the next time you click a picture:
1. ALL THE RIGHT LIGHTS
Lighting is a very important aspect when it comes to photography. So the next time you hit the lounge, reconsider clicking that martini glass in the dark if you’d not want friends guessing what you actually drank.
2. LOCATION TAG
POPULAR TREATS
To all the Instagram natives out there, when you upload a food Selfie make sure you tag the restaurant or café. Its connects minds alike the next time they check out pictures.
Although there are countless varieties of sushi, here are some of most common type of sushi rolls you need to know about:
3. THE RIGHT ANGLE
Maki Roll: One of the most popular kinds of Sushi, the roll primarily consists of toasted seaweed (nori) around sushi rice with a filling of your choice. These are cut into several pieces into bite-sized snacks. They are available with a variety of fillings one can choose from. Nigiri: These basically consist of oblong balls of rice with perfect slices of fresh fish placed on top with wasabi in between.
This is where things get a little tricky in the dining room. Its very important for your pictures to have a three-dimensional feel to it. Playing with angles can definitely go a longway in the overall look of the composition.
4. GO FOR COLOURS
Sometimes when the colours are dull, its best to carry on eating. If you want to get a little creative here, a little run to the garden for flowers wont hurt! it should look as good as it tastes.
15
YOURS TRULY
MAY 1, 2015
yourstrulyzhivali.com
16