LE LUXE

LE LUXE ISSUE NO. 1 | AUTUMN 2015-16

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CONTENTS FASHION AW 2015 COUTURE REVIEWS DELFINA DELETTREZ WHITE ON WHITE FASHION's MAGICAL CHAIRS RETRO REVIVAL

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LE LUXE LIFE PAMPERED PETS EYE FOR EXOTIC HOOKED TO BOOKS DESIGNER X RESTAURANTS DOCUMENTARY REVIEWS HANADI MERCHANT HABIB DESIGNER X HEADPHONES SNEAKER STORIES WELLNESS RETREATS

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LE LUXE AFFAIR GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK NATURAL LUXE THE ANOKHI STORY LE LUXE ORIGIN: BENARAS INDIAN GREEN FINGER

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REFLECT GENDER BLUR ROLE REVERSAL IS COUTURE LOSING ITS TOUCH? BURBERRY’s DIGITAL STORY FASHION’s SOCIAL SHUTTERBUGS

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BEAUTY BEAUTY FALL FAVOURITES BEST BEAUTY BUYS ROUGE ALLURE GOING GRAPHIC NATURAL BEAUTY BOUNTIES TOP BEAUTY BLOGGERS

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LE LUXE SHOP

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Cover Look: Natalia wears a silk buttoned crop top and sheer palazzo pants, both by Urvashi Kaur. Nikita wears a tie and dye waistcoat-blouse combo by Urvashi Kaur and tapered denim pants by Dhruv Kapoor.

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Editor's

LETTER

SIMPLICITY IS SWEET The first issue of Le Luxe celebrates the winds of change in the emerging realm of sustainable Indian fashion.

Entwinning the rich heritage of the past with the relavence of the present is all what ‘Green Is The New Black’ is about. Our Cover was graced by one of India’s currently most sought-after models, Nikita Sahay. It celebrated the essence that true luxury lies in simplicity.

The ‘Luxe Affair’ section provides a panoramic view of the running theme ranging from ‘Natural Luxe’ to ‘The Anokhi Story’. Its all about taking a pause, going back to the roots and embracing it in the fast-paced present.

Guiding you straight to the runway, the ‘Fashion’ segment updates you with the latest happenings of Autumn/ Winter 2015-16 and Fall Couture 2015. Refresh yourself in ethereal whites as our Stylist, Meenakshi Bajpai brings a fresh take on the ‘White On White’ trend. Pamper the skin you’re as our Beauty Director, Yashna Chopra brings to you the best looks of the season.

Ponder over grey areas and question your conscious with Le Luxe’s ‘Reflect’. From ‘Gender Blur’, ‘Role Reversal’ to ‘Is Couture losing its touch’, the segment sniffs out the growing contemplations in the industry.

Immerse yourself in opulence as ‘Le Luxe Life’ brings to you the best in fashion and lifestyle from designer collaborations- ‘Designer X Restaurants’ to an eye for the exotic with ‘Bora Bora’.

From holding a fashion magazine to creating one’s own, the outlook will never be the same. From leading a team of talented individuals to editorial design, it has been quite a feat.

Le Luxe is all about the minimalistic beauty with understated content and visuals. Exageration can be done by anybody, but it is the art of simplicity that is the hardest to master.

SHEFALI J. JAUHAR Editor-in-Chief

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DUHIN GANJU FASHION DIRECTOR

PARTH SHARMA HEAD PHOTOGRAPHER

YASHNA CHOPRA BEAUTY EDITOR

MEENAKSHI BAJPAI STYLIST

Joie de vivre. In command but never

Our magazine is a perfect blend of luxury and art, we tried to achieve the same with the visuals and photographs. Being the head photographer of the magazine I made sure we keep that magazine image and type in mind. Our shoots have both high fashion with fine art details to them, it is perfect blend of them together. White on White is a example of a clean high fashion shoot same as the beauty segment shoot with graphic styling.

As we welcome you to our debutant issue of Le Luxe, it’s not just a magazine rather a fashion identity. Our aim was to give you a retrospective of what luxury fashion is all about. The world is becoming faster, thanks to technology, but we shouldn’t forget where our roots lie.

The idea of looking forward is to look back. Beauty and fashion have always been a part of me but this time we primarily wanted to focus on the eye, bringing out a graphic identity with the art of makeup.

Also, you would find an interesting take on the raw ingredients that act as building blocks for some of the finest Ayurvedic beauty products, a melting pot of Indian culture. It’s been a wonderful journey to create this piece and I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

Two words. Sustainable. Luxury.

Fashion has to be reflective of the past, transcendence between before and after. Le Luxe is all about transparency. A clear message to all our readers, what you see is what it is.

Simple and to the point, minimalistic luxury is what the future of fashion beholds. The White on White photo shoot is one of the mere examples.

White beholds the beauty of the reader, a sense of grounded-ness that luxury fashion should be, as of today.

And with emerging talents, the road seems pretty much optimistic. Take Benarasi silk for example. The spine behind the Indian heritage. The rich hand woven brocade taking its charm back. Think of an escape to a wellness retreat, relax and de-stress in luxe.

commanding. We bring you Le Luxe, a retrospective towards modern luxury. A picturesque concoction of fashion, beauty and lifestyle; our first issue talks about the current scenario on the fashion forefront.

Has couture really lost its touch?

Have homegrown production values diminished? But then again, there is always that icing on the cake.

If you look at Burberry’s digital revolution or social media’s take on fashion, things have become much more quicker. I’ve always had an ardent flair in writing and though we don’t have authentic bloggers who actually talk about fashion, I stumbled across Hanadi Merchant, a luxury blogger running under the name of Desi High Style. Hanadi’s take on fashion really intrigues me, being comfortable in your own skin, keeping in mind the ‘luxe’ agenda.

Moving on to our cover shoot – Green Is The New Black. The idea was to show that a simple khadi garment could overpower a heavily sequined lehenga. Maintaining a balance between the done and undone. So relax, take a breath and dive into the world of Le Luxe! Until next time.

Where as the cover shoot and the gender blur story is an example of shooting fashion in artistic way, use of grain, blurs and darker tones to bring out the feel the style of the garments.

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FASHION

AW15 Stay updated with Shefali Jauhar.

Picture Courtesy: Vogue Runway

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FASHION

ANDROGYNOUS

Blurring the lines of gender dressing takes a whole new dimension with a relaxed modern vibe. With exageration and layering being the heart of the season, one can experiment with slouchy or defined dressing. Going sober with muted colours accessorized with bright pops of red can transform the mundane into the extraordinary.

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CANDY COLOURS

Wrap yourselves in these tempting shades as pastel tones are back for fun winter dressing. Embrace them in florals or even layer pastel tones for a sophisticated yet quirky appeal. Pair a pastel separate with a crisp white shirt for a timeless appeal.

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FASHION

EAST X WEST

With mystical elements and meticulous tailoring prominent this season, an array of designers hinted towards eastern aesthetics with their collections. Whether in the little details like the motifs and colours, exagerated shoulders or the thick obi belts, there were borrowed influences of the East interpreted in modern designs.

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FOURRURE

What’s winter without some decadent fur? From elevating an outfit with fur details on collars and sleeves to donning luscious fur coats. Apart from classic tones, coloured fur also made the rounds on the runway in tones such as fiery red and dark teal.

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FASHION

MUSTARD

Soak in the sunshine as the vibrant Seventies shade is back to rejuvenate dark wintry days. For the bold and the adventurous, don the sunny tone in a statement ensemble paired with a contrasting shade like midnight-blue or a chocolate brown. Minimalists can opt for pops of colour through accessories like thigh-high boots or belts. â–

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FALL COUTURE 2015

Text by Duhin Ganju Picture Courtesy: Vogue Runway

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FASHION

CHANEL WELCOMES YOU TO CASINO ROYALE

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s guests entered the grand show space at the Grand Palais for Chanel’s couture show, what did they see? An empty deserted Art Decoinspired casino surrounded by gambling tables and slot machines. In came Karl’s famous muses- Kristen Stewart, Rita Ora, Julianne Moore, Geraldine Chaplin and Vanessa Paradis who not only wore customdesigned couture outfits but also the houses famous Haute Joaillerie. As they sat out to play the bets, so started the most anticipated couture shows of Paris.

silk ribbons, there was something about this collection that took me back into the 60’s where colors were muted and clothes spoke a different language. Be it the double-breasted coats or tweedy shift dresses, one thing that was common in all were the oversized notched lapels that oomphed-up each and every look.

Then there were these off-white strapless dresses that were delicately embroidered at the neckline and paired with silken ponchos, often appliquéd with Swarovski crystals.

Halter neck number came in a variety of tonal hues ranging from deep pink to ox-blood to sea blue and soft lavender.

Karl Lagerfeld has always been one step ahead when it comes to designing spectacular collections as well as jaw-dropping show sets. One can only imagine the amount of money as well as time spent to make a twenty-minute show look as if it were a three-hour roller-coaster ride. Each season he comes up with a different idea to project his design aesthetics for the Parisian house.

And this season was no surprise, as models walked, flaunting their bob-hair and intense (overdone) makeup donning outfits that were worth thousands. This time he came up with the concept of ‘laser-sintering’, where tailoring is done without the effortless seams.

And let me tell you, this was something very new that no other designer must have done for a very long time. The focus was very much on the iconic Chanel suit as a lot of emphasis was given on the shoulder pads by adding accentuated military-like epaulettes.

Tailoring became sharper and precise, be it the lightly padded jackets or pearl-covered suits. The house’s famous tweed was redone meticulously with hand, as multi-colored strands were interwoven to give a rainbowlike effect to these opulent garments (no wonder this was a couture show). Adding a wasp waist to the wooly coats, buttons were either made up of sturdy gold or fresh water pearls. From padded skirts to patterned chiffon blouses tied at the neck daintily with

As they were intensely layered with heap loads of tulle, each one was accompanied with ruffled collars that reminded me of the Elizabethan era. Shirt dresses were often crafted from hand-cut square-shaped cloth or sequined perfectly at the bodice with gem-like adornments. Ostrich feathers were stitched one by one onto the floor-length gowns, taking the viewer into a dreamscape of bird paradise. A certain look that intrigued me was this bell shaped poncho in jet black that was overloaded with tones of tulle and hand-embroidered flowers, definitely created in the brand’s Lemairé Atelier. Lastly, the Chanel bride, Kendall Jenner, arrived wearing a double-breasted white suit adorned with camellias and a sequined floor-length tulle trail. In an interview, Lagerfeld said that the dress had an androgynous appeal and paid respect to the model’s dad, Bruce Jenner who recently underwent gender transformation.

Mostly, these evening-wear numbers consisted of a delicious confection of sharp lines, as seamless as they were, each look was paired with a new Coco shoe having a slit oat the top of the foot and a curved heel. Be it readyto-wear or couture, Karl Lagerfeld always has a story to tell through his fairytale garments that have a regal opulence and somehow still remain understated.

“It’s fun in life to gamble with ideas, but not with money.”

Karl Lagerfeld

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DIOR’S CONTEMPORARY GARDEN ON THE MOVE

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ith an enlarged cubicle made up of hand-painted glass panels and the crisscross geometrical structures (signature to the brand’s architecture) standing uptight on a purple carpet, it was absolutely clear that Dior had landed! It was the vivid pointillism and a magical abstract touch that made the French house’s couture collection so special. Garments, exquisitely crafted, shouted ‘color, color, color’ and why not? A perfect amalgamation of painted hues like olive, foresty green, peach, lavender, cobalt, rouge and pearly white brought within a whimsical approach to each and every look.

Raf, since the time he joined Dior, has always had a very contemporary approach towards design and whether we accept the fact or not, he definitely tries to bring that out in every collection that he presents. And this one was no surprise, as silhouettes became loose and the petite mains took on the reigns.

Whether it was the delicate beauty of the fabrics or the surrealistic approach towards fashion, a major trendsetter were the sleeves, deconstructed at times or cozily oversized to perfection. Chiffon floor-length gowns floated effortlessly, as unbuttoned bellshaped cape coats were accompanied by large patch pockets. The famous A-line silhouette was incorporated onto these full-sleeved evening gowns, as small hand-cut tulle pieces were delicately appliquéd all over them.

Hemlines were cut till the ankle and in came the corseted bodices curving into a mermaid long skirt. And then there these unstructured cabans, often made from superfine lambskin or delicate cashmere, as each one contained an exaggerated sleeve crafted from mink or light fox fur. Jacquard knitted sweaters with

shawl lapels were paired with these Barbie doll-like skirts that had strands of Ostrich feathers intricately embroidered onto them.

One could see the utmost attention paid towards the draping of certain fabrics, as velvety as they seemed, models effortlessly held extravagant ponchos as they beautifully clung onto their bodies.

Tailoring was a on a high and what I liked about some pieces were that, as effortless as they looked, each piece perfectly married to one another in an utmost harmony.

Even though the Bar Jacket was not visible this time, certain accents of the same were seen being incorporated onto open-ended coats that had exaggerated square-shaped lapels or a shearling stole cozily attached to the collar. Certainly, there was a movement in the whole collection, as a balance was maintained between the fluidity of the garments retrospective of the fact this was a fall collection. Pleated floor-length column dresses were clinched and crinkled at the waist using gold sequined metallic belts. As tapered blouses wafted in the air, one interesting thing seen on the garments were these unilinear chain-like linkages, which cohesively matched with super light fabrications of silk and chiffon.

“Dior will always be a fairytale, no matter what I do and my challenge was to make the heavy lighter.”

This couture collection proved that Raf Simons is definitely going to take the House of Dior a long way ahead, be it the perfectly crafted garments or his futuristic design aesthetics. As one of the few French couture houses, they present collections each season that combine Monsieur Dior’s heritage with the uber cool modernity of present fashion.

Raf Simons

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FASHION

ARMANI TAKES ON THE PINK ROAD

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ailoring has always been the backbone of all the collections that Armani does, portraying an immense amount of utmost sophistication and sheer regality. And why not? Since the time the designer has started his couture collections (also known as Privé), almost ten years ago, he has continuously played with the classic of Italian tailoring and brought it forward to his couture clientele. And this season was no surprise, as eye-popping colors took the reigns and glitzy garments went abode, contrasting to the subtle delicacy of his previous bamboo-inspired collection.

There was a sense of structure in the silhouettes and an ambiguous touch to the fabrics that were dipped in candy-like hues of pink, deep purple, jet black and all the possible shades of blue. This certainly was a tribute to his late friend, Elsa Schiaparelli whose signature color ‘pink’ made her design aesthetics, the most iconic of all times. From lapelled coats to ruffled peplum jackets, these pieces seemed incongruous to the so-called minimalistic Armani style. But you could definitely see the sheer balance between the fabrications that varied from metallic leather to gauzy velvets. It almost felt like a fantasy to me, as if a dusky sky was radiating its colors onto the delicate garments.

Floor-length skirts, sometimes tapered or otherwise A-lined, elasticated at the waist in the most subtle manner. Hemlines drifted apart as puffed-up capes, like a huge fur ball, were appliquéd with multiple strands

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“I wanted provocative color that was shocking, yet elegant.”

Giorgio Armani

of ostrich feathers. Geometric patterns were incorporated onto delicate blousons and glitzy jumpsuits were slashed here and there with hand-placed sequins. It was like a collage as color gradation went in perfect harmony with the hours and hours of petite mains.

Dresses, often shimmering with a touch of lurex, reached till the knees, as glossy leather pants were paired with the same. Spangle gowns and strapless maxis were embroidered with multicolored Swarovski crystals as majority of the necklines were stitched with patches tulle and silk. Off-shoulder gowns and fitted pantsuits wafted into the air and as ludicrously light as they may seem, one can only imagine the amount of time and effort put by the house’s seamstresses in making the designer’s vision come true. One of my favorite looks from the show was this fullsleeved floor-length gown, clinched at the waist with an embroidered belt that had been created using individual handmade flowers and strands hand-dyed of mink hair (it almost felt like a delicious concoction that one could engulf into, amidst this colorful fantasy land.)

Armani took a huge leap and naturally, nothing stopped him! As these were pieces designed for a rich and decadent red-carpet event. And it was the ‘hot pink’ color for me that stole the show, seen on the lips or nails of models and also onto the lean body-defining silhouettes. This definitely was a provocative turnaround in his stand-on design aesthetics, proving that fashion need not be something that everyone wants.

FENDI GOES HOG ON FUR

“I don’t know whether I will do this every season as I’m too busy all the time but yes, for this collection, I was inspired by the moon.”

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ore than 500 anti-fur protestants surrounded Théâtre des ChampsÉlysées shouting on top of their voices, but that didn’t stop Karl Lagerfeld from showcasing Fendi’s first ever couture (also known as ‘haute fourrure’) show. At the age of 81, the German maestro continued to intrigue the fashion audience who were set in for poetical drama. With a Romanesque backdrop, as a tribute to the brand’s new headquarters, so started the highly anticipated show. And what did we see? A parade of 37 models swayed across the u-shaped runway donning their Greek-like hairstyles as the collection screamed ‘fur’ in the highest way possible.

Structure, volume and a sense of fluidity, according to me, defined the Italian label’s fall couture show. From beautiful cape coats to voluminous furry cabans, the opulence and grandeur of the garments couldn’t have been any better. Muted tones of silver, black, pearly white, baby pink and gilded gold were incorporated onto fabrics ranging from delicate minks to fox furs and dazzling lynx. Overcoats were either seen being patch worked horizontally with individual pieces of hand-cut fur or deconstructed at times with layers of eagle feathers. Hooded capes in a cocoon-like structure were zigzagged here and there with truckloads of crystal embellishments as thigh-high metallic boots were embroidered with dainty floral motifs.

Garments reflected a silvery sheen as if the moon’s light was being reflected onto them

Karl Lagerfeld

(no wonder the collection was inspired by the moon). As delicate as they may seem, one can only imagine the amount of hours spent by the seamstresses to create each and every magical piece. Unbuttoned coats were accompanied by exaggerated lapels as slim-fit ponchos were drizzling with hand-appliquéd ostrich feathers. A-line dresses, often clinched at the waist with metallic belts, were crafted from delicate lamb fur, as the sleeves of the same were uni-linearly hand-stitched with multi-colored sequins. Body-hugging gowns were corseted at the waist and accompanied by layers of fur, asymmetrically placed onto the side seams. Hemlines for most of the looks were cut short as you could see a certain rigidity in the fabrics, most of them speaking textural volumes. Fitted blousons were paired with dapper-looking micro minis, as built-up collared capes accompanied the same. Karl had added a scenic notion to the haute clothing and it looked like snowflakes, bit by bit, resting onto these beautiful minddizzying pieces. Angular hemlines and a sense of geometry could be seen in the collection, as if a check board pattern was being sliced off and pasted onto these rich fabrications.

One of my favorite looks from the show was this U-shaped dress that was bordered with a cape, created with a mix of fowl feathers and fox fur. The feathers were individually handdipped into 24ct molten gold and attached to those strands of animal fur, finally being stitched onto the fabric. This was artwork at its best, really!

The conviction and focus that Karl Lagerfeld has towards his design creations is really astounding, with the fact that he also showed Chanel’s casino-themed couture collection.

With his 50th year being completed at the realm of this Italian brand (the longest collaboration ever in the history of fashion), he certainty ticked every aspect of his design repertoire. His aesthetic and mastery at illusion certainly proved today, fur could be astoundingly converted into a wearable fabric.

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FASHION

AU CONTRAIRE: ATELIER VERSACE “There are two faces and we wanted to show the softer side of Versace.” – Donatella Versace Glamour, sophistication and a subtle tenderness defined Versace’s couture show.

With a Perspex runway amped up with a total of 25,000 multi-colored orchids, the collection was a mix tape of characteristic pieces that brought out the lighter side of the Italian brand, contrasting with its sexy and uber cool glam.

Donatella has always been a visionary and each year she presents a collection that not only reflects the brand’s heritage but also respects the glamorous ‘V ‘ factor of the Versace agenda. Therefore, this show was a perfect contradiction between the subtle airiness of garments with a daintier version of the upcoming fall season. And what else should I say? As the collection boasted a touch of hippie-de-lux to dresses that consisted of flouncy hemlines as well as clinching over tight corsets. Necklines floated into daring plunges as feathered bellshaped sleeves provided a Boho effect to the modern-versioned pieces. As toned down, as it may seem, I couldn’t take my eyes off the elaborate craftsmanship, as asymmetric gowns were appliquéd with layers of tulle and hand-stitched Ostrich feathers. Floor-length gowns slashed volumes as floral motifs were extensively embroidered onto the beautiful

pieces. It was like fruits and flowers ripening off a colored forest as soft hues of lemon green, vermillion, faded pink, lavender, bright yellow, peach, jet black and cornflower blue painted the picturesque dresses tailored for a Greek-like maiden.

Short airy dresses, were embroidered with Swarovski crystals as delicate Chantilly was handspun and stitched onto the laser cut bodices. Off-shoulder pantsuits were slashed here and there with intricate meshwork as tapered trousers with side cutouts added an extra oomph-factor to the collection.

Not only that, each model donned up a floral headgear that was carefully crafted from handmade chiffon flowers that were so delicate, it was hard to believe that they weren’t real (for me they weren’t). Peplum blouses were clinched at the waist with eyepopping patent belts as high-waist tapered trousers accompanied the same. And then there was some kind of geometry involved as hand-embroidered glitzy borders were crisscrossed over a spaghetti top or a strapless body-hugging column dress with a silkchiffon flowy trail and those lurex boots in candy-like colors totally perfected each look.

Overall, I liked the collection for the fact that it was ludicrously light and the brand had certainly taken a different route that outstood in all respects, combining the evergreen past with the changing present. ■

“There are two faces and we wanted to show the softer side of Versace.”

Donatella Versace

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FASHION

WHO

SIGNATURE She is also known for her famous the engagement rings. “The rings look like an evolution of an engagement ring. I thought that by covering up the whole finger and wearing four diamonds instead of one, it would be like you were getting engaged more than once!” says Delfina in of her interviews.

It was Delfina who bought back the idea of Midi rings. They are to be worn close to the tips of fingers rather than at the base. People don’t know her name but are aware of that Delfina aesthetic.

d DELFINA DELETTREZ

Over the years, her idiosyncratic point of view has become one of the strongest influences in contemporary jewelry. Made out of precious metals and gemstones, Delfina is known for her gothic and surrealist-inspired designs consisting of animal, insect and skull motifs, with her evergreen signature eye design. These designs have never failed in attracting buyers from all over the world.

Her brand is stocked in a number of highend boutiques including Opening Ceremony, Matches, Saks Fifth Avenue and Dover Street Market. Many renowned people have also appreciated her works that led to major design collaboration with Kenzo in June 2013, where she customized a flamingo inspired jewelry collection for a Miami based concept store, The Webster.

Delfina’s often approaches to fashion as a “laboratory of ideas”. As she mentioned in an interview, “I really needed to have my own laboratory. I’ve got a laboratory – it’s craftsmen, an atelier. I call it a laboratory because what I do is experiment.” She often refers to her art as an outcome of experiments because Delettrez doesn’t have a history of jewelry background, neither had she gone to a fashion or design school.

The force behind hyper-modern accessories for women.

UNLOCK

WHAT

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Famous Italian jewelry designer Delfina Delettrez launched her label in 2007 at a press launch, held at Parisian concept store, Colette.

Delettrez, daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, is the current head of accessories. Delfina, a fourth generation Fendi heiress, spent her initial years in learning and gathering creative influences from her family and from the inherited luxury fashion house. She learnt her design lessons from her surroundings and in 2011; she opened her first boutique at Via del Governo Vecchio, a historic center of Rome.

PERSONAL STYLE

Despite all the attention, Delfina’s dressing and her everyday style is very sparing, simple, and vintage. Even during its quieter moments, she goes for the extreme option: her gold, leaf-shaped earrings wriggled with enameled animals and with her life sized gold hand accessories.

Where for the rest of the world, owning a Fendi handbag or accessory is a status symbol, for Delfina it was just an integral part of growing up. Fendi is also, perhaps, one of the sources of Delettrez strength.

.UNLOCK.

Text By Yashna Chopra

Picture Courtesy: Lyst, Vogue Online

WOW She is the iconic inventor of the Baguette handbag, the ubiquitous It-bag of the late Nineties. The bag as shown in ‘Sex And The City’ made it a sought-after accessory as flaunted by fashion diva, Sarah J. Parker. ■

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w on

Fashion Editor: Meenakshi Bajpai Model: Jessica Mello Make up artists: Ankana Mediratta, Kashika Kapur Photographers: Parth Sharma, Meenakshi Bajpai Assistants: Duhin Ganju, Shefali Jauhar, Yashna Chopra, Massih Azad

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An ethereal white for every mood, its time refresh your winter wardrobe with sharp layering and sleek metals.

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Jacket, Prada.Top, Banana Republic. Pants, Zara. Patent bellies, Zara. Accessories, Latest Wrinkles, Fworever 21.

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Striped Jacket, Mango. Pants, Zara. Top, H&M. Messenger Bag, Forever 21.

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Crochet structured top. Pants, Zara. Two toned sandals, Zara. Accessories, Forever 21.

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Cropped Zipper Jacket, Forever 21.

Pants, Zara. Accessories, Forever 21.

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Dress, TopShop.

Two toned sandals, Zara.

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FASHION

fashion’s magical chairs The dark side of the game Text by Shefali Jauhar

As the grueling industry surges ahead with an endless thirst for collections and high profits, it has seen even the high and mighty crack under its inescapable pressure. Season after season, ‘inspired’ designers are meant to testify and deliver perfection on the runway.

Before the designer can take a breath of relief, he is sent back to his drawing board to plan his next collection. Before you know it, you enter a luxury label and clothes from three different seasons are there to confuse you. Reined by top luxury conglomerates, it is no surprise that creativity is being throttled by business decisions in the millennial era. In between artistic freedom and business demands, there is a rift that needs to be bridged.

When Dior announced Raf Simons as the next successor, the designer barely had 8 weeks for his debut couture collection in 2012. Instilling modern ease with architectural fluidity, the collection was well received. From there forth, the future of Dior seemed secure till he announced his departure post Dior Spring Summer 2016 collection. Unlike designers of the past who would commit their lives to the label, this was a stark love affaire lasting three and a half years. The Belgian designer parted ways for “personal reasons” as stated by Dior. In conversation with Cathy Horyn for System Magazine, Raf stated, “Everything is done in three weeks, maximum five. You have no incubation time for ideas, and incubation time is very important.”

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Fashion’s current phase of designer meltdowns couldn’t have been more prominent. “In this digital age, we live through our screens, documenting the moment. We no longer look: we film. We no longer listen: we tape. And we no longer talk: we post.” stated Alber Elbaz to Suzy Menkez at the first Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Florence last April. Barely a week after Raf ’s departure at Dior, Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz sent shockwaves when his tenure was terminated due to a rumoured tiff with one of the company’s major shareholders. Within 14 years under his Creative Direction, the Israeli designer revived the “Sleeping Beauty” into an epitome of feminity. A master of understated and graceful drapes, fashion mourned the loss of the designer who committed himself to the brand’s philosophy.

Despite being bereft of his own label, it won’t be long before he undertakes another artistic venture and make it his own.

In the business of fashion, where wealthy conglomerates are controlling luxury labels, there remain a handful of brands that refuse to be controlled.And if controlled, given space for artistic musing.

With an indefinite contract at Chanel and Fendi, Karl Lagerfeld has stood the test of time and undoubtedly become a legend in the Bible of

Picture Courtesy: Marie Claire Online, Page Six Blog, The Guardian, The Impression

fashion. Not only has the man conquered three luxury labels to his list, but successfully created three separate personalities for these brands. In the November issue of Vogue, Karl stated, “If you think it’s too many, you don’t take those contracts. You know, I hate the designers who take the money and then go, [he gasps theatrically] It’s too much! For me, it’s normal. But I’m not normal so I don’t know. I like to do it. I don’t have to force myself.”

artistic vision and appreciation but still manages to maintain an air of exclusivity. Singlehandedly managing 12 collections a year, he maintains a fine balance between the business and talent aspect.

Known for his relaxed modern luxe aesthetic, his gowns frequent the red-carpet by Hollywood A-listers. The Roman designer once quoted, “Figures and sales are great, but they are greater if you do them creatively.”

Having celebrated 50 years at Fendi, he has served the longest relationship between a fashion house and a designer. Fendi’s first Haute Fourrure fashion show was held in honour of the longest-serving collaboration. With multiple collections throughout the year for each of the brands, the tenacity in itself is a miracle.

Giambattista Valli is another frontrunner who enjoys

The very trickle-up effect of fast-fashion on luxury is a paradox in itself. With ruthless throttling of creativity at the hands of booming businesses, there needs to be reassessment in the very mechanism. With mounting pressure on designers from all ends, it is high-time that luxury fashion stops being served on an endless conveyer belt. ■

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RETRO REVIVAL Text By Meenakshi Bajpai Illustrated by Duhin Ganju

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RETRO REVIVAL As fashion progresses towards the new era of fashion, it still borrows influences from its past. A list of vintage shoes with timeless appeal and are a great asset to your expanding wardrobe.

FRINGE FEVER

CLASSIC SLINGBACKS

With Seventies being the mood of the season, fringe has made a major comeback this Autumn/ Winter.

Being highly popular on the runway from full-fledged outfits to bags, it is no surprise it is one of the biggest shoe trend this season. Taking you back to the barn, the fringe fever was high on Burberry’s runway.

The iconic shoe that goes back five decades is Mademoiselle’s creation itself. The two-tone slingback shoe features a beige body with a black toecap. The strategic colour placement is to immediately elongate the leg and shift emphasis from its foot. Karl Lagerfeld used a single pair of shoes for his Autumn/ Winter collection that proved one could never go wrong with a classic.

LONDON TOWN

THE GLADIATOR

Say goodbye to flaunting chipped toenails and welcome the power-dressing oxford. The shoes aren’t about women going into the men’s sections; it’s about taking inspiration from menswear and adding a feminine tomboy twist to it. There are dynamic styles available in lace, pointed toes topped with an attractive finish. They cater to young and old alike who prefer comfort and convenience while not diminishing style.

Time to channel your inner Roman warrior, as gladiators were a rage on the runway. From knee-high to anklelength, the shoes were dynamic in lengths. The look got even softer as lace details added femme fatale appeal.

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LE LUXE LIFE From exotic holiday destinations, designer collaborations to pampered pets, what’s not to love about this life?

Illustrated by Duhin Ganju

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PAMPERED PETS Thought luxury was only restricted to man? Move beyond to the fur ball beauties that are probably living life more lavishly you’d imagine.This would either melt your hearth with warmth or send you fuming when you realize their Instagram followers. From bunnies hopping in Chanel to dogs donning Alexander McQueen, the sky is the limit for these pets. If you can’t live that life, you could probably have a peak through these fancy Instagram accounts .

Text by Meenakhi Bajpai

CHOUPETTE

CECIL

ASIA KINNEY

NEVILLE JACOBS

VALENTIN’s PUGS

With private jets and endless platters of shrimp at her disposal, you know it’s Karl Lagerfeld’s cat Choupette @ choupettesdiary.

Yet more reasons for us to get jealous of Cara Delevigne (her eyebrows, wardrobe, and just her life in general) and now her pet bunny rabbit, Cecil @ cecildelevingne.

Much like Lady Gaga, Asia enjoys the exceptional things in life. She gets manicures and wears turbans.

Miss Asia does Pilates and practices her best picture poses. Clearly she’s a lady with refined taste.

The pooch is the beloved two toned bull terrier to designer mastermind Marc Jacobs, and he’s quite the pup.

Visiting Marc Jacobs International offices frequently with New York as his playground, travel adventures are regularly posted to a fan following of more than 5,000. Check out the pooch’s Instagram @nevillejacobs and you’re sure to get double-tapping each snap.

Constantly on the go, Valentino ensures his packs of pugs are never left behind. The pampered pugs are Molly, the mother, along with kids Monty, Margot, Maude and Maggie.

The pampered little diva has two personal maids to document every move and attend to her.

Not to mention her own personal iPad, an access to a chauffeur-driven car, four-piece silver table settings as she has her meals with Karl and a jet to whisk her away to personal birthday parties.Choupette has her own makeup line and book.

“Choupette: The Private Life of a High-Flying Fashion Cat” is a book full of details about her luxurious lifestyle from it’s favorite recipes, napping in Chanel bags to having a good look out of Lagerfeld’s private jet window or even posing with supermodel Linda.

A rising star where pet popularity is concerned; she has been a part of Topshop’s campaign alongside Cara flaunting a Chanel camellia pin.

Celebrities like Katy Perry, Paris Hilton & Kate Nash alike, have also embraced bunnies.

Lady Gaga’s dog, @ missasiakinney has not only has modeled for Coach’s campaign, she also has a closet full of McQueen accessories and jewels to boast.

Little Asia isn’t shy when it comes to the camera.

Back in September, she starred in her very own Harper’s Bazaar cover with Lady Gaga.

In the issue, Lady Gaga confessed that she gets Asia little presents and cooks her homemade doggy food.

The French bulldog was also featured in ‘Coach Pups’ campaign. Asia Kinney has a following of 122k on Instagram.

Picture Courtesy (from left to right): Vietbao, Caffeine Crew, Wonderland Magazine, Sookiethechi, Heidi Klum Wallpaper Blogspot

While travelling, three cars are required for transport.

Separate cars for the designer’s luggage and staff, himself and his partner and the other for Molly, Monty, Margot and Maggie.

Apparently Maude always travels with Valentino. The pugs surely know how to travel in style! His affection for his beloved pets came across in his own documentary biopic film Valentino: The Last Emperor where he stated, “I don’t care about the collection, my dogs are more important.” ■

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EYE FOR EXOTIC Bora Bora Laid-back luxury in the abode of blue.

Text by Parth Sharma

Looking for an escape from the winter blues this December? Well... we have the perfect vacation spot for you. “Created by the Gods”, that is what Bora Bora’s ancestral name stands for. Bora Bora is one of the most famous islands on the South Pacific. Known for its private white sand beach and clear waters, this island is said to be one of the most beautiful places on Earth. One should definitely witness its beauty, once in their lifetime. Other than that, Bora Bora is also known for its luxury resorts and accommodations.

Four Seasons is one of the most luxurious resorts here, located at the northeastern side of the island with its beautiful sunrise view over the Pacific and sunset over the lagoon. It is known for its effortless luxury, with its overwater bungalows, some of them with private plunge pools and fascinating architecture, walls made of volcanic stones and decorative accents fashioned with pearls, even glass floors that supply a window to the lagoon life below. The resort is not just a romantic idea but also a romantic reality. It’s not a surprise that the island is an internationality acclaimed honeymoon destination. Like mentioned earlier, the resort offers private white sand beaches that can be booked and tailored entirely to your wish.

And here’s the twist... The newly weds don’t even have to leave their room, for the most amazing local and international cuisines, world famous Chefs serve the same at their rooms only. Four Seasons also offers wide variety of relaxing spa treatments for both couples and individuals, with special local oils and therapies.

While the resort and the island are famous for the whole romantic atmosphere, Four Seasons is also family friendly; their beachfront villas are perfect alternatives while travelling with kids. The resort provides different clubs for children that feature indoor and outdoor playgrounds with splash pads, while the teens can also hangout with paddleboards and snorkeling gears. If someone is planning to do more than just relaxing and absorbing the beautiful sun, there are plenty of waterspout activities too, like surfing, boating etc. All the variety of things you can do at the island and the resort is what makes this place so special.

Picture Courtesy: Expedia

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O HOOKED BOOKS to

Text by Duhin Ganju

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GRACE CODDINGTON: FASHION’S FEISTIEST ICON .........................................................................................................................................................................

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ow many of you may not be familiar with the person whom I’m going to talk about today. In 2009, a highly acclaimed fashion film, The September Issue was released that showcased as to what goes behind making Vogue’s fattest issue of the year. The movie shows the active involvement of a bulky woman, wearing flat shoes with no makeup and unruly hair, none other than Grace Coddington. Being American Vogue’s Creative Director for over 30 years now, Grace published a self-written memoir (with the help of Michael Roberts – Director of Vanity Fair) giving us a sneak peek into her wittingly self-explanatory life.

Born in 1941 in the town of Anglesey (Wales), even at school, Grace had always been secluded from her social surroundings.

But having an ardent flair in fashion, she very interestingly penned down her incredulous candid life.“I never went anywhere on holidays, I used to read Vogue”, she writes, fantasizing about the magazine whilst evoking the island life quite beautifully. And winning a modeling competition at Vogue, kick started her career in the fashion world. Having a very discreet personality, she had a quite

Image Courtesy: The New York Times

modest approach when it came to posing for cover shoots. And one of her favorite photographers of all times was Norman Parkinson. Grace and Norman became very good friends as they started working together.

But life had a different agenda planned for her. In a car accident, Grace damaged her eye-socket, ultimately quitting her modeling job. Also, losing her only child and beloved sister, further added on to her mental burden.

Appreciating minimalism but at the same time, the audacity of couture, she went on to becoming the editor for British Vogue in 1960. There she made new friends like Karl Lagerfeld, John Galliano and Azzedine Alaia; whose work continued to intrigue her, even today. Known for her romantic and imaginative fashion features, she became a huge success at the Conde Nast-held magazine house. In 1988, she was appointed the Creative Director for American Vogue and her influence on the works of designers and photographers continued to play a pivotal role in the fashion industry (even today).

What I liked about the book were the important aspects in her life that she delightfully uncensored through pen and ink illustrations.

Describing her abiding frieandship with Anna Wintour and the evolving mystery by which she has come to define the heights of fashion, was something that I found quite honest and to the point. Talking about her emotional detachments and a control freak when it comes to work, Coddington has had a pallid contribution to the magazine’s most memorable shoots. Like for example, she talks about the Alice in Wonderland spread shot by Annie Leibovitz that has now been a part of the magazine’s archaic history.

71 and still going, her relationship with the magazine is something that the fashion fraternity still looks up to. A dazzling and beguiling story of fifty years in fashion, her memoir definitely gave me an insight into an artist’s unchartered territories.

“I still weave dreams, finding inspiration wherever I can and looking for romance in the real, not the digital world.”

– Grace Coddington

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THE WOMAN I WANTED TO BE – DIANE VON FURSTERNBURG .........................................................................................................................................................................

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hen this book arrived in the mail, I remember shouting at my mom, “Give me the parcel! I want to tear it immediately!”

In 1946, during the Holocaust, a mother in labor gave birth to her daughter at a local hospital near Belgium District. There from, the journey of a young girl began who went through all the possible ups and downs to invent fashion’s iconic Wrap Dress.

her from doing what she had to do. After a wellversed trip to Italy, she discovered the pristine Jersey fabric (working with manufacturer, Angelo Ferrerti), a foundation to the dress of a lifetime. When she launched her first collection of easy-go dresses, the audience didn’t very well appreciate them, as fashion at that time demanded exuberance and flamboyance. Going through extreme losses she had to shut down her so-called small-scale business and re-think of a newer strategy.

Diane Von Furstenberg was a philanthropist, a mother, a wife and a grandmother. Mining the rich territory of what is to be a woman, this confiding memoir covers more human experiences than any other. An intriguing page-turner, the book unfolds the essence of what it is to have a family that unconditionally loves you. Independent and far apart from those clichéd old-schooled housewives, Diane married Prince Edward Egon von und zu Furstenberg to kick-start a career in fashion.

A dizzying life with multiple relationships, her road to stardom wasn’t an easy one. She went through all the roller-coaster rides, but her savvy and well intentions never stopped

But as they say, adversities do bring out the best in you and so they did. After so many losses she made a comeback in 1991, to launch her signature clothing line DVF, alongside other category products like perfumes and cosmetics. Reinventing the wrap fabrics in various prints like the chain linkage and leopard monochrome, these dresses flew off the shelves from various departmental stores like Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. The world darned for modernity and her Wrap dress’s fame spread worldwide.

Everyone wanted it! But even after having tasted her own success, Diane didn’t just stop here. She moved to the meatpacking

Picture Courtesy: Vogue UK

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district of New York and opened her Global Headquarters of the DVF label. In 2005, she received a Lifetime Achievement Award from the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers Of America), having donated over a million dollars to her DVF Family Foundation. In 2014, she opened her exhibition entitled, ‘Journey of a Dress’ at LACMA, becoming the fastest-selling exhibition of all times.

DVF had a huge pillar of support in her life and that was her mother. “She was not supposed to survive, I was not supposed to born”, Diane writes in her book as an ironical ode to her inspiration. Overall, the book truly was an introspective look in the labyrinthine history of a princess who ultimately became a real Von Furstenberg.

“Diane’s book evokes everything she has lived through. It is honest, direct and fascinating – just like the author herself.”

– Anna Wintour

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GODS AND KINGS: THE RISE AND FALL OF JOHN GALLIANO AND ALEXANDER MCQUEEN ........................................................................................................................................................................

Picture Courtesy: The Huffington Post, UK

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n December 2010, Alexander McQueen was found dead in his London apartment after showcasing his recent fall collection. The same year, John Galliano was ‘fired’ from Dior after his drunken anti-Semitic remarks at a night club. Dana Thomas, an American journalist based in Paris, perfectly commemorated these unfortunate events in her exceptionally well-written book – Gods and Kings. With her detailed portrait and critical acclaim on the commercialization of the fashion industry, she has very well explained the commodification and true nature of luxury.

Alexander McQueen and John Galliano were two of the finest figures, known in the fashion industry, both still remembered for their minimalistic stupor with daring and sexy designs. Shy gay men raised in London, their road to stardom wasn’t an easy-one.

Galliano (an illustrator) was famously known for his sensual bias-cut gowns and signature hourglass tailoring whereas McQueen (a Saville Row tailor) was a brilliant technician whose famous ‘Bumster’ became a timeless classic. Usage of finest fabrics with razor sharp precision, both pushed themselves to

juggled between houses like Balenciaga, Dior and Givenchy; both underwent psychological crisis, going to Soho bars, getting drunk and involving in unhealthy sexual acts. They created a parallel universe with different rules and attitudes, altogether. But even with such savagery, the fashion audience had never seen opulence, extravagance or boldness of presentation and design. It was obvious that money wasn’t an object for them; the result they produced were ‘couture steroids’, leaving people gasping. According to them, a pretty frock wasn’t enough!

They wanted the dark side of Avant Garde, a gift for fusion and outlandish tableau.

John very well understood Monsieur Dior’s design aesthetics, playing here and there with the house’s signatures like the Bar Jacket and the H-silhouette by drawing mechanisms of theatre and film. McQueen’s Platos Atlantis collection was showcased at the Victoria Albert Museum, entitled ‘Savage Beauty’, having 600,000 visitors attend its opening.

Hourglass-shaped mini-dresses in Elizabethan proportions were draped and cut with utmost sophistication and workmanship. The extraordinary beauty of these worldly designs

and the ecological spell of the narrative even left the fashion editors spellbound. And ultimately, both the designers shook the fashion establishment out of its bourgeois.

Well-explained and precisely executed, this book even covers the fact that fashion has now grown into a monolith that has no time for patience and creative designers.

Corporate-backed superstardom and peer-pressure eventually drove both the designers into an emotional self-destruction.

And their departure from the fashion industry definitely left a creative void.

With Galliano returning as the Creative Director for Martin Maison Margiela and Sarah Burton overtaking the McQueen brand, this non-poetic heartless business is somewhat getting restored back to life.

Profound creativity, deft cutting skills and those darkly romantic voices of McQueen and Galliano tell a fascinating tale of ambition and tragedy, even if the reader doesn’t know much about fashion. ■

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DESIGNER re utu Co hen W

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Ca ets Me

RESTAURANTS Whipping decadence in mixing bowls of their aesthetics, designers have stirred magic in exotic restaurants throughout the globe. Infusing heritage with modern notes of style, these crème de la crème of restaurants are right up fashion’s street.

Text by Shefali Jauhar

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Calling out the best forces in food and fashion, the decade old restaurant is a collaboration between Chanel and the Alain Ducasse Enterprise. It lies in the heart of Ginza, atop Chanel’s building.

French cuisine sourced from the finest ingredients of Japan come to life with décor designed by Chanel’s boutique designer, Peter Marino. From tweed upholstery to staff dressed in Karl Lagerfeld uniforms, meticulous attention to detail is paid from cuisine to décor.

BEIGE ALAIN DUCASSE TOKYO

RALPH’S COFFEE

A perfect blend of warmth and comfort, Ralph Lauren brews a café with an interesting mix of fashion and caffeine.

Amidst the vintage setting lies an assortment of books for bookworms to accompany a highly curated menu.

Photographs of the Polo way of life emanate the world of Ralph Lauren. Being right on New York City’s famed Fifth Avenue; it is certainly a must-visit for all caffeine addicts who long to spend a good time after a busy day.

A café-restaurant with its heart in Sicilian delicacies exudes grandeur with an understated appeal. The restaurant elegantly features an all-gold interior that will be nothing like you’ve seen before.

Wooden accents further accentuate the rich warm tones of gold. Gold’s Executive Chef Claudio Arciglione, leaves taste buds lingering for more with dishes like Steak Tartare with egg gelatine to the works!

GOLD BY DOLCE & GABBANA

Picture Courtesy: Taken from the official websites

Radiating British aesthetics from fashion to dining, the café is named after the luxury brand’s founder, Thomas Burberry.

Serving an assortment of British produce within interiors inspired by the Art Deco movement, it is a perfect blend of modernity and class. It stands apart with a gifting segment where one can gift tokens like bags and stationery with a personal touch through monogramming services.

THOMAS’s

TOMMY BAHAMA

Life’s a beach especially when it comes to this island-inspired restaurant. Luxury with a modern sense of ease, it is a tropical paradise, reminiscent of your last beach vacation. Ideally located at several beach destinations from Florida to Hawaii, unwind for a weekend getaway with drinks that will leave you longing for the sea. ■

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CU M RE ENT VIE AR WS Y

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FASHION’S CUTTING EDGE: DIOR AND I

It all starts with Raf Simons being introduced to the house’s ateliers as well as the seamstresses, who also don’t know much about this new figure. He carefully examines and explores Monsieur Dior’s historical archives to enlighten his creative mind with his respective design aesthetics. With his right-handed partner Pieter Muller, he starts developing concepts and penning down ideas that would help him in putting up a sensible collection. From serendipitous design ideas to alterations with the iconic garments, the crystal clear analysis actually gives an insight as to how big fashion houses work, especially with new young talents. Very image driven and inspired by the contemporary architecture, he adds his modern touches to fabrications that would be a cornerstone for each and every garment. nd not only that, the visual feel is so real, you can actually sense the amount of tension and work pressure on the faces of petite mains who are literally juggling to recreate Raf ’s new ideations. It really is a counterpoint of vision and collaborative labor as the whole team start working together in a synchronized manner. And suddenly, it gets very exciting, as the pieces start coming into 3-D forms, the way Simons wanted each one to be. For instance, in one scene, the iconic Bar Jacket is truncated into a delicate peplum and it shows how the past is married with the present. Chronicling every move of the Dior atelier, the film very interestingly shows the variations between two great designer’s ‘Joie de Vivre’. Galliano’s style was so dramatic and Avant-garde whereas Raf has always had that contemporary - futuristic approach when it comes to modern uber dressing.

film, is choosing of the location for staging the runway show. So Raf bumps into this old Parisian art-deco apartment containing five mirrored rooms. Nearly one hundred workers install a total of 1.2 million flowers on the magnanimous walls. From delicate delphiniums and pearly white orchids to lush green Mimosas, it really is an abstraction of nature, completed wholly within a span of five days.

And then, finally the climatic catwalk moment where a theatrical display of strenuous creations take place. From lapelled jackets to embroidered boat-shaped necklines, nearly each look is paired with these tapered cigarette pants. The collection portrays utmost precision and that classic tailoring, which the house has pioneered over the times. Hemlines are chopped and corsets are loosened, giving a new lease of life. And then emotional moments are captured very well in the film when Raf breaks down into tears as he sees his models parading through the halls. There is that sense of achievement and a level of appreciation shown from the A-list fashionable crowd. Suzy Menkes, Donatella Versace, Marc Jacobs and the designer’s parents; all of them embrace him in the end for putting forward a collection that literally transforms a legacy into something very personal (a definite 70’s touch).

“An emotional rollercoaster”, says Frédéric Tcheng as the film uncritically embraces the values of the industry and portrays how transparency is the new mystique. It definitely generated interest by showing how a benevolent patriarch, devoted to the elegance of a woman, showcased deadlinedriven creative work and has definitely left a ‘blueprint’ on the fashion world for years to come.

“Raf Simons did a SUPERB show!

Very DIOR! Another talented Belgian!”

— Diane Von Furstenberg.

Picture Courtesy: The Independent UK

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fter the sudden departure of John Galliano from the House of Dior due to his anti-semantic remarks, someone needed to replace him to carry on the couture house’s legacy. Within five months, it was announced that Raf Simons (who left his position as the Menswear designer for Jil Sander) would be stepping into the shoes of his counterpart. And what was the real twist of the story, you may ask? He had to debut his very first Fall 1213 Haute Couture collection in less than eight weeks, in front of intimidating fashion figures like Anna Wintour, Suzy Menkes and the CEO of LVMH, Mr. Bernard Arnault himself. So French film producer, Frédéric Tcheng decided to produce a documentary, showcasing as to what was happening behind the scenes of this whimsical drama.

One of the very interesting elements whilst showcasing the whole thematic appeal of the

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THE HEROIC ACT OF YVES ST. LAURENT

Picture Courtesy: All images are screenshots of the film

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hen haute couture in Paris was at it’s peak (around the 1930’s), people yearned for exuberance and extravagance. Couture has normally been resonated with a provocative as well as an out-of-the-box persona. But they say, as times change, so does fashion. Regarded as one of the founding figures of modernity in fashion, Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was a designer who created garments that were uncompromisingly bold and sexually outrageous. Understanding the personality of a woman, Monsieur Saint Laurent created icons that not only reflective of his attitude but also exemplify his Joie de vivre. Bernard Bonello’s biopic carefully examines as to how this maestro withstood all odds and promoted French fashion like no other.

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The episodic structure of the film has a spontaneous tenderness as a real ‘orchid’ in a hothouse full of exotic full blooms, withstands the aristocratic cruelty and becomes an ideal for the fashionable French society. It all starts with Saint Laurent (played

by Gaspard Ulliel) checking into a hotel room and procrastinating about the trauma he went through in his childhood due to the Algerian War. His real-life partner, Pierre Bergé (played by Jérémie Renier) is his pillarsupport during the entire film. His constant motivation keeps the designer’s drive to create well-constructed garments, alive. Mad for fame, Yves gets into substance abuse and

multiple relationships. A party freak, the film has very beautifully captured the Disco Era of the 60’s as the designer has a tough time accepting his homosexuality in a macho-like culture. Initially, working under the House of Dior, Yves presents his first collection to the media who instantly reject the same dude to its simplicity and overpowering sexuality.

Going through multiple rejections and not being able to find that ‘wow’ factor within, he ends up with a nervous breakdown. In this hallucinatory fashion world, his team comprising of his female muses, decide to launch the YSL logo under his brand name.

This leaves the whole press wondering what this new talent has to offer. Yves’ second collection, under his name, comprises of exaggerated top hats and meticulous millinery techniques, further introducing the first ever women’s’ tuxedo- ‘Le Smoking’.

Picking up his colored crayons, he decides to uses the jersey silk fabric to create the iconic ‘Mondrian Dress’. Rather than being printed, the dresses are made from pre-dyed fabrics. that are screen-printed with geometrical abstract lines; in accordance to the aesthetics of Dutch painter, Piet Mondrian. With a evident convergence between fashion and art, his Mondrian Dresses are exhibited at a Parisian art-deco opera.

The film traffics sensual realism, as Yves’ collection for each season is inspired by happenings around the political world.

Taking measurements in his haute couture ateliers and working precociously, he sees his masculine self in slim model-like girls.

Talking around the early 1970’s, he also poses nude (for the very first time) to launch an advertising campaign for his very first fragrance. His third and final collection is inspired by the trip that he undertakes to Morocco (Middle East). Venue being The Westin Hotel in Place Vendôme, an elaborate runway with sensual pastel colorations is installed with thousands of orchid flowers.

Rich chandeliers channeling a Baroque décor tower the heads of a mesmerized audience who are in for a whimsical drama. Hemlines are exaggerated as glitzy uber-lux elements like chunky jewelry and embroidered prints are enveloped with multiple drapes.

What I liked the most about the film is it’s cinematic expression, which is so strong; it encapsulates the real life of a legendary designer who is thrown into a mix of memories, feelings and characters. Ending on a positive note, the film is a mix of the mundane, slowly transcending into the real world of an icon.

FASHION’S NEW IT GIRL: VICTORIA BECKHAM

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ive years after she shocked the fashion world by unveiling an elegant collection of beautifully made dresses, Victoria Beckham has established herself as a powerful force in this industry to be reckoned with. With her signature zip splattered onto razor-sharp pieces, like a chameleon, she has had the knack of transforming herself from an ex-Spice Girls to a recognized luxury fashion label. As she was ready to showcase her SS 12 collection, the Skype team decided to collaborate with her and make a short documentary film, giving us an insight into the professional world of this talented young Brit.

“I’ve always loved fashion and I was that kid who used to watch my mum get ready and think, Wow! You look amazing,” starts the documentary with these self-explanatory words. With a small army of hyper-organized assistants, the film shows us as to how a celebrity brought a complete change in her life by being focused and determined towards the work she wanted to do. Each scene highlights every minute detail and what I liked the most about this 45-minute documentary was the fact that viewers can resonate their personal lives with it very well. The tension and mental torture that she undergoes through, presenting her very first collection in a small hotel room in front of critiques like Hamish Bowles and André Leon Tally, really gave me goose bumps all over. And then being accepted on the cheat sheet of NYFW is an exemplary of utmost seriousness and intense work pressure. From garment construction to incisive tailoring, the well-balanced scenes are a reflection of Victoria’s personal style and attitude. There is a certain chaos in her London studio as everyone is merely juggling between different work areas to create a successful body of work. Monochrome walls, sumptuous grey sofas and a minimalistic interior décor make it possible for the designer to generate ideas for her collection.

The film also covers an in-depth aspect of brand management as to how a catwalk show is presented in front of a fashionable audience. From makeup, to backstage and also after-sales; all this really was an eye-opener for me. Her creative advertisement campaigns and her involvement in the work she does is the cornerstone of her success story. Mirroring much the same wardrobe she wears and works in her real life, Beckham’s foray into high fashion really pays-off. From bandeau styles to slim pussy bows, she adds frothy ruffles to the parachute silk dresses that portray a ‘boymeets-girl’ attitude. Her interjection of bold pastels here and there make each garment even more fun and wearable. And then, she winning the ‘Designer of the Year’ trophy at the British Fashion Awards is just a mere reflection of months of hard work and determination. She never ceases to lose hope and one of her pillars (as shown in the film) is Simon Fuller, the CEO of her label. He pushes her to further dwell into the company that she created, thereby coming up with VVB, a less expensive version of her ready-to-wear line. Introduction of VB jeans and her signature ‘Victoria’ handbag makes her even more recognizable in the fashion industry.

“The evolution of Victoria Beckham is one of the ongoing pleasures of New York Fashion Week. The coherence and confidence in every collection shows how far she has come as a designer.”

– Tim Blanks

From pressure days to slightly relaxed ones, a definite concoction of emotions is portrayed in this whimsical saga. The film very well shows that the vision, foundation and flow of each and every creation can only come from her as she rattles-off big designer labels because of her hard work. A very ‘hands-on’ woman, she juggles her role in between being a wife, a mother and a businesswoman.

The film very well shows how she has proven herself to have a really successful fashion brand; and all this is only a sidebar to the main story: Victoria Beckham has made it as a designer. An epitome of chic understatement, there is definitely no stopping her. The Beckham brand maybe one thing, the ‘VB’ being another. ■

Picture Courtesy: All images are screenshots of the film

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HANADI MERCHANT HABIB

ON HER FASHIONABLE LIFE AND SURREAL TIMES

Fashion Editor: Duhin Ganju Photography by Parth Sharma Assisted by Massih Azad

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Pleated white shirt, Selvage by Chandini Mohan. Jeans, Forever 21. Bag, Bulgari. Glasses, Tiffany & Co. and Solitaire ring, Cara Jewellers.

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he is a diva, a mother, a juggler, a writer; more is less, when it comes to describing Hanadi, a blogger at Desi High Style.

Whether you see her at Fashion Weeks or any celebrity party, her repertoire is always on point. I got the lovely opportunity to meet her, this is what she has to say.

DG: Describe yourself in a line.

HM: Just a girl with a strong penchant for luxury fashion!

DG: How can you resonate yourself with luxury?

HM: Growing up I always heard my mother talk about her made in Italy shoes or made in France handbag or Chantilly lace that she had purchased for her clothes and so on. The most important aspect of all her clothes and accessories was superior quality. They were things that could last and have lasted decades. That is what luxury fashion is to me. They are clothes and accessories that are not mass- produced. They are made with the best of the materials and are designed to last a long time and of course feature cutting edge design.

DG: How did the idea of blogging come up?

HM: I had been toying with the idea of blogging for a while but never had the courage to do it. Then one day, my partner in crime, Maleeka calls me and tells me she’s started a blog for us and said start writing. And there it was, an outlet for me to talk about my love for fashion.

DG: What was is the idea behind Desi High Style? Also, tell us how did you come up with such an interesting name?

HM: The blog is India based, so I figured why not put in the word ‘Desi’ in it. And since it talks about high fashion, throw in the high style. And there you have it... Desi High Style!

DG: What are the key essentials of fashion blogging? Any pros and cons?

HM: Honestly, I am no pro at blogging and I myself have a lot to learn, especially as I’ve taken a back seat since I gave birth to my daughter nine months ago. Having said that, content generation is extremely important.

You need to have new stuff up as often as possible. Also, it depends on why exactly you started the blog. If you started purely for yourself then you make your own rules. But if the numbers are important to you then you need to have new content all the time. There are no pros and cons as such, but if you want to go on a holiday and won’t have time to write then you need to work in advance and have posts ready to publish so that there isn’t much of a gap in between posts. Keywords are also very crucial as they show up in the search engine. So always make sure you have the right keywords. Now, I wish I followed my own advice!

DG: According to you, what is the status of luxury blogging in Delhi?

HM: Luxury blogging hasn’t really picked up much here. This is a very niche field and not everyone is interested in reading high fashion runway reviews and not everyone can afford the things I feature on my blog.

DG: Is the Indian audience interested in reading the content on blogs, nowadays? Do they understand the nuances between quality and quantity?

HM: For the most part I think not. No one here really cares for what so and so designer had for the forthcoming season and doesn’t want to sit and read a review. People here are more interested in “how to” posts. So more like three ways to wear so and so garment or how to pair this with that or which nail polish to buy and so on. I would say the Indian audience could relate more to photos on a blog as opposed to written content.

DG: Are there any Indian luxury bloggers that you adore?

HM: I haven’t come across any just yet.

DG: If your blog was a person, describe its personality? What makes it unique from others?

HM: A happy person with a never-ending wish list! I don’t know if my blog is unique or not but I do give a lot of tips on what to buy and how to buy.

My main focus is e-commerce as I order a lot of stuff online. So there are

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tips on where to order and which website to order and how to minimize import duty costs etc.

DG: What is your style mantra?

HM: Classic chic with a bit of an edge at times.

DG: What are five things that you need to have in your handbag before heading out for the day?

HM: Chanel blush and lipstick, Dior eye pencil, wallet, phone and cardholder all neatly (well sometimes) in a purse organizer.

DG: What are the most desirable items in your wardrobe right now?

HM: A forest Green Bulgari Serpenti Forever handbag and my most favorite Prada gabardine wedges.

DG: Any five beauty essentials that every girl/woman should have?

HM: A blush that gives a natural glow (I swear by Chanel), a night cream (I use advanced night repair), a go to lipstick (Chanel again), ORGANIC shampoo and conditioner (L’Occitane) and of course a signature perfume (Mine varies between Chanel No.5, Chanel’s Coco Noir or Thierry Mugler’s Angel).

DG: What are your favorite brands, something that you can resonate with?

HM: For handbags it has to be Celine. Ever since I discovered the mini shopper in the Fall of 2010, there has to be no turning back. Their minimalist, fuss free style combined with fabulous color blocking on their handbags keep me coming back for more. For flat footwear, it has to be Gucci. I have bought numerous pairs of their flat sandals and they last a long time and withstand a lot of wear and tear. For ready to wear it can be anywhere from Rag&Bone to Acne studios, DVF or Equipment.

I have recently discovered an Indian brand, selvage by Chandini Mohan and have this amazing high low shirt in the most delicious fabric and architectural details on the sleeves. It’s my current favorite. I am currently saving for a Victoria Beckham outfit.

you love “theStaymost,truethento what start worrying about making money! ”

Dress, Rag and Bone. Blazer, Zara. Ring from the Cartier Trinity Collection.

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Jeans, 7 For All Mankind.

Neckpiece, Swarovski.

Bracelet, Valentino.

Notebook, Lanvin

DG: Your most expensive buy.

HM: The Chanel 2.55 bag in patent cherry red.

DG: Name any one fashion cliché, a trend that is done and dusted.

HM: Velour or should I say Juicy tracksuits. Please, if I see one more of those in Delhi I’m going to poke my eyes out!

DG: Could you briefly give us some tips about how to start up with a luxury blog? Any specific message to the young audience?

HM: Hmm, the key is to write because you want to write. A lot of bloggers now start blogs with the aim of getting free goodies. I’ve never gotten a freebie! Furthermore, when you first start blogging, don’t expect to get paid. If your blog is purely to state your own opinions then money adds a bias to what you really feel. If it’s a sponsored post, always specify that it is. Honestly, the goal is to write because you have genuine love for fashion and want to talk about it. Stay true to that first, then start worrying about making money! ■ 72

Anarkali and embroidered jacket, both by Anamika Khanna.

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LE LUXE LIFE

DESIGNER xt Te

X a

rm

ha

hS

rt Pa by

HEADPHONES

URBANEARS X MARC by MARC JACOBS

GA LCE & O D x S FREND

S

BBANA

tarted by a group of pro snowboarders in 2006, Frends made its way through the fashion world with its clean minimal design headphones. It began with the brand’s first headphones (Taylor) that had a clean metal plate as ear cups with a leather headband. This is when these simple yet unique designs gradually joined mainstream culture. The brand has collaborated with several brands, with Dolce & Gabbana being one of their biggest yet. A pricey pair for $ 6,995, they are embellished in the brand’s signature jewelry with pearls, gold chains, Swarovski crystals and velvet across the earpiece and bridge.

But its not all good looks, the headphones have premium sound too along with a certain amount of noise isolation. The headphones are available at Frends website and stores on order.

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Urbanears is a brand known for its innovative design and technology in the audio sector. The headphones made by the brand are most loved for sporty yet classic pop designs headphones along with reasonable price and great sound.

Inspired by their love for Nineties, it was a collaborative effort of Luella Bartley and Katie Hiller of Marc by Marc and Jacobs and Urbanears. The collection is available in three colour variations (Oily Black, Deep Ocean Blue, Berry Red), each representing extremes in nature: Oil, Ocean and Berries. The Oil color way has a silky yet crude texture, which creates a two-toned headphone set. The ocean colour way provides a peaceful blue contrast for the everyday lifestyle. The Berries is red pop colour tone. They feature a removable headband that can be washed when dirty. The exclusive collection is available at the Urbanears online store and in select Marc-by-Marc Jacobs stores.

From a bejewelled piece to a sleek black-gold colour way, here are some of the most sought after designer collaborations yet.

BEATS X ALEXANDER WANG

MON STE RX

ADI DAS ORI GIN ALS

When one thinks of Monster, high definition digital headphones, cables and Beats by Dr Dre strike first. Think Adidas and quality sports and lifestyle steps in. Combining the best of both worlds, the collaboration between style, comfort and high definition headphones is as good as it could get. Some fascinating features include foldable design to save space, making it extremely pocket-friendly and dual port inputs that enables audio sharing from another source. The headphones also come with basic weather sealing so they can withstand mild rain or other weather conditions along with noise isolation for supreme sound quality. The collaboration features three colours in black, blue and white available at both Monster and Adidas Originals retail and online stores.

Both Dr. Dre and Alexander Wang are pioneers of premium luxury products. The brands originally partnered in 2014 to create custom design Studio Headphones. On the occasion of Alexander Wang’s 10th anniversary, both the brands launched the re-edition of Beats Studio headphones. The special edition headphones come in a leather signature embossed glossy stingray hard carry case with a pale gold zipper and a golden clipper. It is not just the fancy colour way or the crystal clear sound that make these limited edition headphones special, 90% of the purchase of the 2015 re-edition goes to Dosomething.org, together with net proceeds from the sales of the Alexander Wang x DoSomething hoodies and t-shirts. Available exclusively at Alexander Wang’s New York flagship store and his official website. ■

Picture Courtesy (Left to right)We Are Friends Online, Pinterest, Sole Collector, RWD Magazine

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LE LUXE LIFE

SNEAKER STORIES

As fashion embraces sporty-chic, it’s time to revisit the good-old classics that have completely changed the sneaker game as we see it today.

Text by Parth Sharma Illustrations by Karan Singh

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NIKE AIR JORDAN 1

NIKE AIR MAX 90

Sneakers may have come and gone but none of them were probably as impactful as Air Jordan 1’s. Originally released in 1984, basketball shoes were never to be seen the same after this iconic invention. It was designed by Peter C in a robust combination of a solid red sole beneath a red and black leather base to match Chicago Bulls jerseys. With the Nike Swoosh on a leather tongue; the shoe’s complex design and technology arose out of a need for uniformity in dress code as per NBA regulations.

Nike completely changed the running game for athletes with the release of these iconic sneakers. Incorporating modern Air Cushioning Technology in the midsoles of shoes, the 1987 origin sneakers were called Air Max III until the year 2000. Re-released as Air Max 90 by designer Tinker Hatfield, the sneaker prodigy was ahead of his time and blended colors and shapes from the midsole to the upper base. It was uniquely revamped with speed and aggressive design.

The muse behind the invention, Michael Jordan was constantly fined $5000 for violating NBA’s uniform regulations. When NBA banned the shoes that year, Nike made the best out of the situation and came up with a commercial called ‘Banned’ for the Air Jordan 1’s. The commercial said “The NBA threw them out of the game but fortunately the NBA can’t stop you for wearing them.”

This marketing strategy lead to great success and the shoes sold out almost immediately after the launch.

Probably one of the most comfortable sneakers at that time, it featured the biggest and the most visible air pocket ever in the shoe. Until late 2014, Nike continuously manufactured the shoe with the same design and technology due to its adaptability. In 2014 Air Max 90 got a makeover, the design silhouette remained the same with changes made to color and material. Retro versions are still popularly sold and popular in demand (not surprisingly).

The latest update featured the lunar midsole technology that made them even more comfortable. Nevertheless, the pair is still given the same love they received in the 1990 and sure will in the coming years.

An inspiration for years to come, Nike ensures continuity of classics with launches every few years. In fact the 2015 versions of Air Jordan 1’s ‘Hare’, witnessed a great response from sneaker heads and were sold out within a month of release.

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LE LUXE LIFE

CONVERSE CHUCK TAYLOR

Who would have known an elite design meant for professional basketball players would trickle down to such an everyday essential? Converse Chuck Taylors were designed and created by Marquis Mills Converse in 1908 but introduced to the world only in 1917. The Converse Rubber Shoe Company introduced a unique pair of shoes that composed of a rubber sole and an upper canvas.

Chuck Taylor’s were specifically designed for professional basketball players and not rock stars or hip-hop artists.

Arguably the most important sneaker of all time, without Chuck Taylor’s design the modern performance footwear wouldn’t exist. Undoubtedly comfortable, they were at the pinnacle of footwear technology in 1917. Designed for professional needs meant the best of features.

The first high ankle sneakers were designed to provide basketball players ankle support; the technology is used till date in the modern basketball shoe. Sporting the “Converse All Star” Patch, is not just about the brand value, but serves a very basic purpose of protecting the canvas from wearing down the athlete’s shoe. By 1921, Chuck Taylor sponsored a basketball team called the Converse All Stars. A clever mix of marketing and physical education, Taylor held basketball clinics at high schools all over the country to teach fundamentals of basketball while also selling his shoes. By the 1960’s almost 90 percent of basketball players would sport a Chuck Taylor and this also got popular among different subcultures like musicians and artists. Throughout the years Converse Chuck Taylors All Stars made a shift form athletic sportswear to casual footwear. By this time the sneaker got a slang term ‘Chucks’ that is still used even today by a lot of rappers.

The shoes never went out of style. These remain topnotch casual yet stylish and can pretty much be sported with any and everything (suits and gowns included). The company now has multiple successful collaborations with different artists in different cultures. Converse sold $450 Million in Chucks in 2012. Converse has been providing the most style for the best price for about 100 years now.

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NIKE AIR YEEZY 2

Put ‘Kanye West and Sneaker’ in the same sentence and you should expect sneaker heads losing it, topping their credit cards and camping overnight just to get their hands on a pair. Kanye’s contribution to the sneaker world is undeniable.

On May 29th, 2012 at 11 p.m., Nike via twitter announced that the Air Yeezy 2 were available on their website for $245. Eleven minutes later, a second tweet stated that the sneaker was sold out. Can you imagine 5000 pairs in 3 different colors sold in 11 minutes and that too at a last second announcement? Deriving its name from Kanye’s nickname ‘Yeezy’, it all started in 2008 When Ye’ stepped out for his 2008 Grammy performance dedicated to his late mother where the yet to be released sneaker had their first debut. The sneaker world went haywire trying to figure out what those shoes were as Nike never talked about a collaboration with Kanye West before this. The sneaker featured a translucent sole unit with a bright crimson lace lock. Without an official release, the sneakers left fans in a tizzy with rumours about the release. After months of speculation, Kanye West and Nike released a slightly different sneaker called the Air Yeezy 1’s. Nike produced only 3000 such pairs, which made them extremely rare and hyped. This stamped Kanye’s influence in the sneaker world. Patiently waiting for two years, Nike launched the second versions of Air Yeezy’s “Air Yeezy 2 (also called Red October). With multiple hints and canceled release dates, Nike created an absolute hype about these sneakers. On 29th May 2012, the Air Yeezy 2 Red October dropped and changed the game. The sneakers were solar red in color and made out of premium leather, suede and multiple other materials. The sneaker sported a ridged reptile inspired heel counter and a snakeskin inspired design on the quarters. The shoe also featured several references of Egyptian culture with the depiction of the god Horus on the tongue and insole with ‘YZY’ on and under the strap. Featuring a unique glow in the dark red sole, the shoes sold out in 11 minutes without any pre release announcements. That was it for Kanye and Nike’s collaboration. The deal eventually went sour and we never saw a Nike x Kanye collaboration since.

ADIDAS ORIGINALS SUPERSTARS

In efforts to replace Chuck Taylor’s highly popular sneakers for athletes, Adidas upped their game in the late 1960s’ with a modern low-top pair of sneakers.

Incorporating improved technology with way comfort than Chuck Taylors, the shoe featured special foaming around itself for protection and support. Popularly nicknamed ‘Shelltoe’ or ‘Shell tops’ for its rubber shell toe piece, not only was it famous for its unique design but toe protection. Their iconic low top design is a major influence in the sneaker world. It was the first ever low-top basketball shoe to feature complete leather upper and the now famous rubber shelltoe. ■

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LE LUXE LIFE

WELLNESS RETREATS Text By Meenakshi Bajpai

Escape and energize from luxurious island getaways to hi-tech European spas and everything in between, here are some of the top wellness retreats in the world that are sure to leave you revitalized.

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COMO SHAMBALA ESTATE

VELAA PRIVATE ISLAND

It specializes in providing holistic wellness programs that look after each and every aspect of the guest’s wellbeing. Nutritionists are on-board advice cuisines based on an individualistic approach; exercises are desegregated into daily programmers, not to forget meditation sessions to help clear one’s mind and yoga for strengthening muscles.

With its special facilities, it can easily beat all the luxe resort spas in Maldives. It is a part of the one of only four ‘My Blend’ by Clarins spas worldwide that offers a custom treatment that matches the guest’s skin types.

This takes place in quiet cottages with stilts that stand above the crystal clear ocean. The island is surely a dream within a dream. This unique destination was created to personify the very best of an extensive group of islands bathed by deep blue sky in the aquamarine waters of the Indian Ocean.

SHA WELLNESS CLINIC Overlooking the delightful Mediterranean sea atop a mountainside, it is known for its detox and weight-loss programs. Individual treatments are prescribed on arrival after a series of blood tests and a complete medical check up. Prepare to pamper yourself with daily doses of shiatsu and massages. This comes along with acupuncture, hydro-jet sessions and a lymphatic drainage treatment called presotherapy. Get fit with personal trainers and make frequent visits to doctors.

Picture Courtesy ( from top to bottom) : (1) Sunshine UK, LV Hotel Collection, (2) Magellan Resorts, Luxury Traveller Guide, (3) Fraufluger, CN Traveller, (4) D Hotel, Oob Magazine, D-Hotel Blogspot, (5) LuxoIndia, LuxoIndia, Trphobo

D-HOTEL MARIS

ANANDA

A serene spa destination with a soothing space and ambience elevated to the next level. Standing on the tip of a protected cape, it offers breathtaking, restorative views and is straddled by a number of private beaches.

At the heart of this breathtaking resort, lies a sanctuary of peace and calmness. With a stunning relaxation area and private scrub rooms, highly expert therapists bring about specialized body treatments and facials, using award winning Espa products which are naturally rich in the most powerful and finest ingredients.

Set at the foot of the Himalayas, Ananda is where you are amidst the lap of nature.

A retreat here style and elegance blends discreetly to enhance the serene experience.

A unique wellness retreat that uses the healing philosophy of mental, spiritual and physical health, it creates unique wellness programs that boost your well being. The 21,000 square foot destination spa offers a menu of over 80 beauty and body treatments.

They come along with personalized wellness programs and therapies that focus on detox, weight and yoga to meet an individual’s needs and health goals. â–

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LE LUXE AFFAIR GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK | NATURAL LUXE | THE ANOKHI STORY | BENARAS | INDIAN GREEN FINGERS Illustrated by Duhin Ganju, Meenakshi Bajpai

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Fashion Stylists: Duhin Ganju, Meenakshi Bajpai, Shefali J. Jauhar, Yashna Chopra, Models: Nikita Sahay, Natalia Lazuta Hair & Makeup: Nishtha Gaind, Nirmala Photographer: Parth Sharma Photography Assistant: Massih Azad

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GREEN

IS THE NEW BLACK

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Natalia wears a black top by Rashmi Varma and indigo tapered trousers by Dhruv Kapoor. Black platform sandals by Clarks.

Nikita wears a bonded crop top by Dhruv Kapoor and mirror embroidered linen pants by Rashmi Varma.

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Text By Shefali Jauhar

A

fter decades of constant association to frivolous Bollywood inspired fashion, India is slowly gaining International momentum in terms of its holistic approach. Designers are re-inventing rich crafts in modern renditions that flowed in the country’s veins for centuries. With sustainability being the core of their ideologies, they belong to a pack of growing green Indian warriors that are ushering a new era of Millennial responsibility.

Initially deemed a ‘space-age’ concept, sustainable fashion is now a trending philosophy gaining foothold in the Indian fashion industry. Based on the holistic way of being, there has been a shift in focus from product to process. It is about revisiting the root of origin with nature being the teacher. The very roots from which fashion was incarnated and continues to be an inspiration.

A true icon of sustainable luxury, Rahul Mishra was the recipient of the International Woolmark Prize 2014. To share the same platform as Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent was quite a feat for the Indian designer to accomplish. As the designer quotes on his website, “The entire inspiration of this collection started with the story of Merino wool and how something which is so sustainable starts from a farm and goes to the highest in fashion.

This is what amazes me when I see something which is produced on such a green level goes to Manhattan in New York- the most artificial city humans ever built.” Not only did the humble designer set the benchmarks high but also etch a mark in Indian and International fashion history.

Entwining sustainability with Indian craft with noteworthy business is perhaps a great way to move ahead in fashion. Grassroot by Anita Dongre is a sustainable line empowering artisans with crafts ranging from ahir embroidery to hand-block prints. On immediate thought, one can remember Rajesh Pratap’s tribute to indigo collection where local artisans were staged and celebrated on the runway. With his strong affiliation to Indian textiles such as homespun khadi, he is popularly hailed for his minimalistic yet highly detailed approach to fashion.

With the fast-fashion monster eating into lives of people and the planet, cracks have begun to surface. From ridiculously low wages to unsafe working conditions, controversial debates have sprung by social and environmental activists worldwide. A global revolution for ethical fashion is the current need of the hour. It holds promise for a brighter tomorrow.

Meanwhile on the Indian terrain, designers young and old alike are channeling their talent in unique holistic ways.Seeking beauty from the discarded never aroused such emotion till they were reincarnated on the runways of Abraham & Thakore and Amit Aggarwal. But what was so special about the X-ray sequined long coat or a straw skirt anyway?Designers blended items of daily life with no acquaintance to fashion and transformed wearables into the extraordinary. The next season also witnessed Amit Aggarwal’s green fingers as he processed pollybags for a sparkly visual texture. Designs were not just aesthetic but also intelligent. Indian fashion now inhales a breath fresh air with increased awareness of designers like Eka, Pero and 11.11 with khadi and sustainable crafts as a part of their repertoire.

In efforts to increase awareness and create a demand for dying Indian crafts, Indian crafts have lately become central themes as introduced by the Fashion Design Council of India.Sunil Sethi, President of FDCI stated at the event, “It was undoubtedly the most anticipated gala closing show ever seen. Our talented designers have successfully reflected the old world charm of Benaras on the contemporary canvas. We look forward to having such collaborations in future and evolving the fashion dynamics of India and I can assure that this is just the beginning. We all together will make sure to come up with artisans from different corners of our country and revolutionize the traditional fashion”. Transporting traditional into contemporary wear saw 16 designers take on Benarasi weaves. Enchanting renditions from brocade cullotes with blazers (Rajesh Pratap), a jumpsuit (Namrata Joshipura) to lehenga skirts (Manish Arora) saw variety at it’s best.

India has slowly begun to capitalise on what it naturally hones: resources, talent and rich craft. In order to truly transcend boundaries, it needs support and appreciation. Support begins from the grassroot level as fashion blatantly ignores the many hands that go behind the making of the product.

The great lengths that go into the making of an outfit should outlast the thought of the next new thing in the wardrobe. ■ 87

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Natalia wears a banana khadi top by EKA and striped trousers by Urvashi Kaur. Nikita in a un-buttoned lapeled waistcoat and trousers by Urvashi Kaur. Suede peep toe platform sandals, both by Zara.

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Natalia wears an embroidered white shirt dress by Rashmi Varma. Nikita wears a silk-linen blend indigo shift dress by EKA. Khadi belt and wedges, both by Urvashi Kaur.

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Natalia - Banana khadi top, ox-blood tapered trousers, yellow cashmere scarf, all by EKA. Fringe leather brogues by Hats Off Accessories.

Nikita - Bonded beige crop top by Dhruv Kapoor. Tie and dye patiala-trouser combo by Urvashi Kaur.

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Natalia - Mohair peplum top and flared pants, both by Urvashi Kaur. Nikita - Khadi brown dress by EKA

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LUXE AFFAIR

n

n

n natural luxe

n Unlocking India’s treasure trove of natural beauty brands.

Text By Yashna Chopra

Picture Courtesy: Shopping Escapades, The Purple Window, Fabindia

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I

n the age of industrial disasters and rising global temperatures, green is certainly the new black. Once considered a fad, labels such as “natural” or “chemical free” are now delicate matters. True luxury is pure and untouched, just the way beauty products should be. The science of beauty and makeup has been around for centuries. As beauty is now a part of everyday life, a new era of going natural has slowly caught up with Millenials.

With products laden with copper and lead these days, there is an increased awareness about what goes inside the contents of the beauty products. Thanks to the progress of technology and science that we have access to high quality natural makeup and beauty products these days.

technology, they create the perfect opulent experience. With passage of time, the Ayurveda concept is gaining momentum in the Indian household.

“Beauty is truth, truth beauty,” said John Keats. Talking about the truth, India has the biggest bounty of beauty secrets. Well recognized for Ayurveda and its natural resources, the practice currently stands as a relevant approach even today. India is home to several ‘Luxury Ayurveda’ brands that cater to an audience in search of the purest forms of ingredients with a deep respect for the tradition. Their products have their roots in ancient science of Ayurveda. They take elements from ancient beauty rituals and create beauty products that work as magic spells to modern day customers. Infusing authentic beauty concoctions with modern

Forest Essentials is a top Indian beauty brand that has gone beyond being a ‘medicinal yet highly beneficial’ brand. Satisfying beauty needs the authentic way, Mrs. Mira Kulkarni (CMD, Forest Essentials) states “The bestimported skincare brands use sophisticated modern technology. We use natural ingredients, which when used over extended periods of time; retain the essential qualities of youth and beauty. The similarity is that all have stringent quality controls.” With beauty based in four categories, it has a variety of products to offer from Body Care, Facial Care, Hair Care to Wellness.

FOREST ESSENTIALS

Their best selling products include: Soundarya Face and Body pack, Soundarya Radiance Pack, Facial Tonic Mist Pure Rose Water, Sandalwood and Turmeric Luxury Sugar Soap, Hair Cleanser Indian Rose Absolute.

India’s exotic rituals and beauty care regime has made it popular as a nation and the very ‘Indian’ aspect is contributing to a global trend. Ayurveda is not just about natural skincare, but a positive and healthy way of life. Slowly shunning chemicals and shortlived solutions, beauty brands are walking the path of ‘natural’ these days. Brands like Kama, Forest Essentials, Iraya, Good Earth and Fab India that maintain high standards of quality and purity with an artisanal touch.

KAMA AYURVEDA

Kama Ayurveda’s best range of products include: Handmade soaps with organic coconut and pure essential oils, Bringadi Intensive Hair Treatment Oil, Kumkumadi brightening Ayurvedic Face Scrub, Rejuvenating and brightening Ayurvedic night Cream.

Another luxury brand rooted in Indian heritage is Kama Ayurveda. Offering organic products, the products are well known for their calming and mild on skin beauty treatment. Their credibility lies from sourcing natural and organic herbs from the purest regions of India. Every store has an Ayurveda doctor available thrice a week to personally recommend products to customers.

Fabindia is one of India’s largest brands, mainly focusing on traditional techniques, skills and hand-based processes. Fabindia’s products are natural, craft based, contemporary, and affordable.“We aim at providing customers with best natural products. Our main aim is to keep our customers happy and satisfied.

We have some of the best and authentic beauty and food products in our stores.” says the brand’s Assistant Manager.

For products having a long lasting effect in this fast-paced world definitely seems like luxury these days. With people acknowledging Ayurveda’s benefits globally, it is the ingredients that are the heart of natural luxury products. With increasing opposition towards the chemical based products, there is a growing reluctance of using synthetic products. With an endless admiration from bloggers alike, there is proof in the pudding.

FABINDIA Fab India’s best selling beauty products: Fabindia Lavender Skin Toner, Fab India Honey Frankincense Face Wash, Fabindia Lemongrass Facial Spray, Fabindia Orange and Cinnamon Face and Body Gel Scrub.■

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LUXE AFFAIR

the anokhi story Reviving the Woodblock-printing technique.

Text By Duhin Ganju

W

ith a UNESCO award-winning museum and colors of the rainbow inspired by the Swinging Sixties, Anokhi is the reason why block printing still exists in India. Set up as a small business in the 1970’s by British-born Faith Singh, the brand today is associated with appliqué, patchwork, beadwork; techniques juxtaposed with hand block-printing. From intricate floral designs to arty Paisley prints, this barely-mentioned artisan ship, is rooted in the deserts of Rajasthan where small-scaled workers from dampened villages painstakingly work to create a rural livelihood.

“Every Anokhi product should have a craft input in it and by virtue of that support the craft and the craftsmen”, says Faith in one of the UNESCO conferences. Small initiatives like having workshops with kids from local schools in Jaipur and imbibing them with the knowledge of this particular craft, is an initiative that the brand has keenly taken upon. Created by block-by-wooden block using natural vegetable dyes like indigo, pomegranate and turmeric; even today

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the clothes sold by the label carry a tag explaining the laborious and intricate processes in bringing alive a meager cotton fabric. They work with silk and khadi too, the mul-mul fabric (somewhat similar to a silk taffeta) is washed at least two to three times to get that rugged artisanal look before being dipped into huge canisters filled with volumes of natural water-based dyes. And the brand today still believes in developing its own repertoire by decentralizing the output, in other words, maintaining that transparency between entrepreneurs and craftsmen. Their convivial relationship supports quality, with interdependence and an unwritten understanding between the local karigars.

Stroll through the workshops in Neemrana (Jaipur) and you find women developing structural pieces with consistent and sustained eco-friendly methodologies. Now the process of block printing is quite simple. Few blocks of sandalwood, teak or even brass are taken and carved with a particular design, using copper chisels and

Picture Courtesy: Travels In Textiles Online

iron hammers. Once the design has been carved onto the block, the fabric is stretched out on a waist high table and pinned at each end.

The required amount of dye, often a natural dye, is poured out into a tray with a metal grid with layers of fabric across it. When the dye fills the tray, the fabric on the grid acts like an inkpad when the block is pressed against it.

The printer presses the block against the inkpad in the tray, always making sure that just the right amount of dye is picked up. The block is then placed carefully on the fabric and struck with the heel of the printer’s palm. This process is repeated until the entire piece of cloth is covered. The printer then starts all over again with another block to print another design or color. Fitted evening coats, quilted jackets, poplin shirts and local Angrakhas, mimicking the fame of Bandhini tye-dyed technique, are juxtaposed with floral chintz and Indo-Persian paisley motifs. And then you have different regions, permeating to a stipulated methodology; patterns and designs are outsourced from the same. You have ghagras made in Ajrakh, duppatas and angochhas made in Sanganer, followed brightly colored Cholis from Balotra. Jodhpur blouses are complimented with mirror

work, enlivening and empowering the darkly printed cloth. And what actually acts as an icing on the cake are the myriad of authentic naturally abstained dyes. Syahi or Natural Black is made up of printing paste, obtained from rusty horseshoes or scrap iron. Gold and silver offer a less expensive, faster imitations of embellishments like Zardozi.

On the other hand, Khari printing done white-on-white, mimics Lucknowi Chikankari.

And fret not there, located in Jaipur near Amber, is the Anokhi Museum of Hand Painting. A pink sandstone Haveli built in 2005, bi-yearly exhibits showcase the innovation and revival of the craft preIndependence Era. “Creating an interface between the craft and the market, and providing for contemporary tastes from the traditional craft base has till date remained out ambition”, says Mr. Pramod Kumar in one of the Vogue’s interviews.

And as we move rapidly into a new economy and into the global village of today’s all-connecting culture, India needs at local, state and national level mechanisms that guard and protect Rajasthan’s cocooned tradition of textile authenticity and garment manufacturing.■

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LE LUXE ORIGINS:

BENARAS

Taking you back, each issue at a time.

Text by Meenakshi Bajpai India’s heritage old Banarasi silk has always been a prized possession of every Indian women and an obligatory item in a bride’s trousseau, a traditional fabric, is suddenly losing out in the popularity stakes, with new trendy factory made Chinese weaves are more to be seen.

Seeing this radical change, our country’s top twentyfour designers recently met in the city of Banaras, Uttar Pradesh along with the top officials from India’s Textile Ministry, to brainstorm on how to up bring the fabric.

The designers provided weavers with design ideas and promised to base their next collection, on this luxe textile.

SLOW DEATH

Past couple of decades, Banaras silk has always been starchy, stiff and over decorated – in other words, uncomfortable to wear. The real fall off began after the weavers, hoping to call onto new customers, moving away from the beautiful patterns and motifs that the fabric is famous for began adding cheap embellishments. People started to buy silk saris, which were imported from China, as they were cheaper than traditional weaves, and also came in a variety of colors and designs. The outcome of these imported fabrics were that the yarn was replaced to produce a flowing, soft fabric and ended up with something stiff. Real gold thread was not being used because it was too expensive, instead a bright yellow substitute, which looked dreadful and gave a stiffer look to the fabric.

NEW HOPE

FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India) has been popularizing Banarasi silk enterprisingly this past year.

This year’s Spring-Summer 2016 finale show at Amazon Fashion Week, title “The Banaras Project -The Crafts of India’, saw designers such as Sabyascahi, Tarun Tahiliani, and many more come together to celebrate

the popular silks and weaves from Banaras. The show ran over four segments and paid tribute to the heritagesoaked craftsmanship of the weavers of Banaras.

Showcasing a mix of traditional and contemporary pieces, the blend of these garments was perfectly made for the modern Indian woman. They were wearable and light, with the approach being so chic that it was a delight to watch every model walk on the ramp.

Also at the Lakme Fashion Week Winter-Festive 2016, Banaras had been the focal point of the Indian Textile and Handloom Day. Ritu kumar’s entire show dedicated to “Varanasi Weavers” was highly respected and there was also a talk moderated by fashion columnist Shefalee Vasudev on the subject of ‘Banaras in Indian fashion’.

As another part of journey on taking Banarasi weaves to the global fashion stage, the Development Commissioner for Handlooms, Ministry of Textiles held a show to promote the Handloom Mark and the Banaras textile as part of the India International Trade Fair (IITF) 2015 at Pragati Maidan.

INDUSTRY SUPPORT

Skills have been passed from generations, 1.2 million weavers in this cottage industry, for whom this is the only source of income, are desperate for help. But times are changing. Demand has fallen so badly that many have left the city to work as office clerks and taxi drivers in other parts of India.

KEEP IT REAL

These skills need to be given a new life, not just by design inputs but giving them yarn at subsidized rates, by infrastructure, improving buyer seller networks so that they can earn a living and also setting up dyeing centers. ■

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INDIAN GREEN FINGERS In conversation with a member of India’s sustainability clan, Rashmi Varma.

Text by Shefali J. Jauhar Image Credit: Rashmi Varma

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LUXE AFFAIR

SJ: What’s a typical day in the life of Rashmi Varma?

RV: Hectic and creative.

SJ: As an individual well versed in several fields from interior design to visual arts, how has this shaped your aesthetics as a designer?

RV: They all have common threads of shape, form, and color, concept that I’m able to apply.

SJ: As an avid bookworm that you are, what books would you recommend to fashion enthusiasts?

RV: Anything and everything that interests you and elevates your level of thinking.

SJ: How would you define a woman donning a ‘Rashmi Varma’ outfit?

RV: Smart, strong, cultural, sophisticated, and well traveled SJ: As a designer who promotes Indian craftsmanship, what are the set of challenges you face as a designer?

RV: Some of the challenges faced are the time constraint and consistency when working with crafts. When running a business, it is difficult to be completely sustainable in approach. However, we try and maximize sustainability in our efforts as a whole right from labour to the resources in the design process.

SJ: You have certianly infused heritage with notes of modernity in your designs. How did it feel to have your Bihar Sari Dress curated in V&A’s Fabric of India exhibition? What was the journey behind this outfit?

RV: Feels great and honored to be exhibited alongside such great textiles and garments both new and old. It’s an affirmation that we’re on the right track.

SJ: In the quest to incorporate Indian textiles and designs in modern silhouettes, has there been a eureka moment in terms of innovating a new technique?

RV: We’ve just taken traditional techniques and applied them in a new context. We haven’t really developed any new technique.

SJ: The Fall Winter’15 collection explores various artisanal techniques ranging from Ari embroidery to Chikankari. What has been the inspiration behind the collection? What is your favourite piece?

RV: We just love these artisanal techniques. We’ve used them in all our collections and we’ll probably use them in the coming seasons too. So there’s no new inspiration as such in terms of the techniques. The mirzai coat is one of my favorites. It’s a machine-embroidered piece, with a typical pattern used on the salwar hem or certain Guajarati and Rajasthani garments. I really like the cocoon shape and volume of the coat. I love that we’ve used a very typical sort of embroidery to quilt the coat.

SJ: Based on your life experiences, what advice would you give to budding designers with no background in fashion design?

RV: Be curious, experiment, explore live life be greedy for knowledge, get out of your comfort zone! ■

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Fashion Editor: Shefali Jauhar Models: Nalini Kumar, Massih Azad Hair & Makeup: Saloni Sondhi Fashion Assistants: Meenakshi Bajpai, Duhin Ganju Photography: Parth Sharma

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“

There is an increasing

displacement in attitude that demands an end to outward physical differences and an embrace towards tasteful

”

aesthetics.

W

hen Alessandro Michelle took over the reigns at Gucci, the former Accessory Designer turned Creative Director certainly went with his fashion instinct. His debut menswear collection boldly showcased Dandies in chiffon and lace, incorporating the same for women. Richardo Tisci didn’t shy either from dressing Givenchy homme in skirts over tailored suits. Despite the shocking style of dressing, not an inch of masculinity scaled down on the runway. The year also witnessed androgynous model, Andrea Pejic promoting gender fluidity by walking down both runways unnoticed.

There was a certain sense of equality yet ambiguity on where fashion was heading.

Fashion has yet again provoked its spectators with the dawn of the gender blur. Never before has fashion and its culture aroused such curiousity as in the Millenial era.

With liberal exchange of ideas taking place globally in this digital age, it is not surprising that the accelerated pace has helped intellectually challenge the notions of the past. With the ideals of gender been engraved in stone for decades, the current millenials don’t mind an act of defiance, and what better way than fashion?

Fashion currently stands at a provocative confluence where men and women feel the urge to dress equal. It is not just the obvious inner expression, but the outward projection.

Sex is something determined at birth, but ideals of gender especially in dressing is something shaped by culture. The Millennial men of today do not always desire sharp suits 112

to shield their masculinity and women, body curving outfits to highlight their assets. There is an increasing displacement in attitude that demands an end to outward physical differences and an embrace towards tasteful aesthetics.

Diving down into the provenance of fashion history, feminity was always equated with nature wherein the the woman’s life revolved around motherhood duties. Her existence just like her dressing was delicate and decorative. Meanwhile a man’s position was defined by his status and power in society.

With involvement in social and political roles, his masculinity was defined by culture. The Flapper era of the 1920s, witnessed feminist sensibilities like never before. Breaking the code after decades of submission, women no longer seeked frivolous clothing. Womens’ fashion was drifted towards an antagonistic mood as locks were chopped, hemlines raised and lips were rouge. Coco Chanel, the woman leading ahead of her time, saw the future of fashion before the rest could. She redefined womanhood with her lightweight and practical designs, an aesthetic in striking contrast to Christian Dior. She turned around jersey, the humble fabric used in men’s underwear and transformed it to womens’ dresses.

Moving decades ahead, Yves Saint Laurent’s ‘Le Smoking’ definitely raised eyebrows to witness the woman in a masculine silhouette. Pushing the boundaries in Power Dressing, the iconic designer made women don menswear aiding to an adrogynous appeal. As much of a liberating avant garde

concept it was in those days, the designer saw the future ahead and took the road less travelled. Sure enough even today, it is a fierce red carpet trend embraced by the bold.

With 2015 being about the revival of Seventies, here goes another cue on unisex dressing. Towards the end of the late 1960s’ to mid seventies, gender-bending became a social phenomenon as men and women in America started a ‘Unisex’ movement (Think David Bowie). It was a movement promoting equality among both genders when it came to roles at the workplace and other decisions to do with the way of life.

The urge for fashion to get minimalistic and fuss-free has also brought about Athleisure. Designers like Hood by Air and Alexander Wang are infusing sportswear into manstream fashion diminishing the line between gender based clothing.

Unisex fashion has also made it’s presence felt in the couture world with it’s first unisex couture house, Rad Hourani.

Established in 2013, it is recognized by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.

As much as fashion likes to push it’s boundaries towards the unimaginable future, it is just as insecure of it’s acceptance. Unisex fashion in the millenial age reflects the growing cultural shift in attitude brought by designer labels embraced by segments of the upper echelons. It is time one overlook frivolities in fashion and go beyond gender differentiation.

It’s time to find equality in our differences.■

Look 1: Unbuttoned long jacket with 3-D embellishments (female), A kimono-jacket hybrid (male) both by Aditi Koushik Look 2: Tailored blazer, Zara, Frilled shirt, Mango (female), fitted suit, (male) Louis Phillipe Look 3: Silk embroidered cropped vest and khadi cullotes both by Rashmi Varma (female), Chevron Khadi vest with Dabka embroidery, Rashmi Varma, Degrade wool (male) by Deeksha Talrejia Look 4: Two-tone structured jumpsuit (female), Assymetric structured waist-coat with Patiala pants (male) and wooden accessories, all by Mehandee Dureja Look 5: Silk shawl cape, Rhythm Aggarwal, Pants, H&M (female), Unbuttoned jacketflared pants in degrade wool (male) by Deeksah Talrejia

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oing back to the day when shots were carefully planned so as to not finish the camera role now seems centuries ago. With DSLRs being everyone’s latest accessory, it was originally the humble role camera that nurtured the best of talent.

The dying art is slowly being embraced by a pack of Millennials. It’s time to get nostalgic and rediscover the world of role photography.

Digital format is something we all are familiar with in today’s world. With all of its conveniences, do you think it is worth switching back to film? Considering some of its advantages like never worrying about space, an instant preview after every click and many more, it hasn’t quite eliminated every problem possible.

Despite all it’s offerings, it invariably makes the amateur highly dependent on it’s conveniences and thus stagnates skill. A wellillustrated example could be people depending on the image preview too much and not caring about the way the subject is shot due to the limitless space and options available.

For that matter, even the inattentiveness to the little details, which can be easily rectified while shooting due to lack of skill, is highly evident these days.

Back in the day, great photography with a role camera wasn’t everybody’s piece of cake but it surely made users value each and every click. Personally, the greatest disadvantage of shooting with film is that all the amateurs who have only learnt on the digital medium lack the basic photography skills. If you talk to a photographer who has worked with analogue, he or she is so well versed with the camera settings that he or she doesn’t have to look at the preview to ensure a good picture.

When a person works with a role camera, it truly teaches you the essence of patience in photography. There are no instant results and it takes an entire role to see what the final

results are. I think that is really beautiful.

What happens with this is that we start thinking more about the entire process. We start imagining how the pictures should look like when we process them and what to exactly to do when they go for development.

Shooting with film also teaches us the importance of composition, framing and the right moment. With limited number of frames available on a film roll, we get very particular about what we shoot; there is a lot to thought put in a picture. This means the user is on a quest for the best composition, the perfect angle, the perfect framing that compliments the composition; then waiting for the perfect light, maybe the beautiful sunrise or the high contrast afternoon sun or the gorgeous sunset. The following ideas together to make that perfect picture.

The problem with going digital in today’s generation is a practice called chimping. It means the constant gaze at the LCD screens after every shot, something considered highly unadvisable by several photographers. The lack of one in analogue cameras benefits the photographer, as he doesn’t lose an inch of focus from the subject. It helps strengthen his skills furthermore.

Amidst the invasion of shutterbugs in the rapid digital era, lies an underground movement of photographers switching back to roles. The once commonly used household gadget is now a prized vintage possession.

What are even more prized are the lessons it teaches photographers with its imperfections about the medium itself. ■

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“A couturier must be an architect for design, a sculptor for shape, a painter for color, a musician for harmony and a philosopher for temperance.�

Cristobal Balenciaga

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Text By Duhin Ganju

Divorcing fashion from its dream.

IS COUTURE LOSING ITS TOUCH

I

REFLECT

Charles Frederick Worth is regarded as the founding father of Haute Couture, an Englishman who introduced words like ‘Crinoline’ and ‘Hemline’. Little did he know the legacy that he created 200 years ago would take a deep plunge, as we see it now?

Today, as we know, couture is run by the Federation of Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture, a division of the French Ministry of Industry. Due to the strenuous work involved in creation of each and every garment, couture can be afforded only by a few who respect the craft and have the big bucks, of course! To be a member of the Syndicale, one has to preside over the creation of hand-finished clothing in an atelier that employs at least 20 workers in Paris. Followed by that, the garment construction has to take place over the course of several fittings, directly on a client’s body or the replica of her physique (a mannequin). You may just wonder as to why did I write an entire explanation instead to coming to the actual point. Well... it is very important to know the basics before moving on any further.

Everything we do today is linked with digital, somewhere or the other. We wake up in the morning with a device in our hands and life begins. Same is the case with high fashion, voracious demands of social media handles like Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and SnapChat; has made it very difficult for designers to keep up with the digital pace. With any designer, one show isn’t enough. The film has to be rolled over and over and over again. Has luxury fashion really come to this? Does it all have to do with commercial viability? The sense of stability is descending day by day with the fact that people are already interested in the next collection, before the previous ones being hit in the stores. Sexpot glamour is what our so-called fashionable audience darnes for; no one is bothered about the term of ‘exclusivity’. Turbo charged trends have led to an escalation in demand so the need-forspeed has bled every possible sector of the fashion industry. Couture is a process that takes time and effort; it’s not a day’s job. One has to take a deep breath and admire the beauty of artisanal craftsmanship.

And somehow I understand the issue of designers too. They have an obligatory to satisfy press commitments and deadlines given by their bosses. Look at the business magnate Bernard Arnault (CEO, LVMH), more bothered about profitability rather than creative talent, his business aspect has already overshadowed various designers’ design repertoire. “There isn’t any incubation time for ideas and that period itself is very important”, said Raf Simons (former Creative Director for Dior) in a WWD magazine interview. And that is the reason why seamstresses from various ateliers have given up due to zero support of their vision and never-ending deadlines. I understand that the world is moving at a 200 kmph speed but the fact remains, couture needs time and ideation, nothing happens with the wave of a fairytale wand. Take the case of designers like Alexander McQueen or Marc Jacobs, both victims of substance abuse, left French houses like Givenchy and Louis Vuitton. Or even John Galliano’s departure from Dior after his anti-semantic remarks, are mere indications of the work pressure that these talented men have to face.

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Houses are falling apart one by one and these breakups are getting more and more frequent, as couture is down pouring to ready-towear. But the irony lies in the fact that CEO’s acquiring design houses, talk aboutsustainability. What about sustainability of talents? As an individual, one needs to realize that creativity and vision are finite, not renewable and with this pace, they’ll definitely disappear. “Marketing aspect is killing the whole thing. It’s governed by greed, not vision.

There isn’t any innovation because of that”, said Lee Edelkoort (a renowned fashion forecaster) in an interview with The Independent.

Thanks to Chanel, under the realm of Karl Lagerfeld in 2002, the brand acquired ateliers like Lesage (known for embroidery), Lemairé (the feather specialist), Massaro (the shoemaker), Gulliet (known for making fabric flowers) and Goossens (specializing in jewelry); to keep the traditional artisanal craftsmanship alive. Kudos to couturiers like Azzedine Alaïa and for that matter Karl Lagerfeld himself, who remain a tad bit away from social media, focusing on what they do best.

Sadly, it has come down to this, couture is terrified of the competition thrown in by the ready-to-wear industry and no wonder goods to be handcrafted in Paris are now manufactured in Italy. Ultimately, when you visit a store, there is a trilogy of collections going helter-skelter, fighting for space and attention. With commerce gradually wiping out couture, a question still remains unanswered – “Which house is the tiger going to pounce on, next?” ■

Picture Courtesy: Couture Notebook Online

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Picture Courtesy: The Economist

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“Technology is an intrinsic part of most people’s lives. All we’ve done is make sure to weave technology into the fabric of the company. This is how customers live. They wake up with a device in their hands and life begins.”

Angela Ahrendts (Former CEO, Burberry)

B

urberry is a word that comes up repeatedly in our conversations.

The 159-year old trench coat maker is now recognized as fashion’s consummate digital pioneer. What started as a small shop in Basingstoke, has now become a purveyor of global luxury and British cool.

In 2001, the company appointed Christopher Bailey as the Creative Director to oversee the brand’s exponential reach towards the global fashion audience. He conducted runway shows in Paris and Milan, giving a head start to the company’s business. 2006 saw the arrival of Angela Ahrendts, a businesswoman who with the help of Bailey masterminded the company’s spectacular accent over the past seven years. But how did they do it all? Well, the road to stardom wasn’t so easy. Burberry had 23 licenses around the world; each one was doing something different. This threatened to destroy the brand’s unique strengths. Angela Ahrendts decided to centralize design, thus focusing on innovating core heritage products. She began to see how digital was vital to the future of the brand, making a decision that would change Burberry forever. In 2009, Burberry launched their Facebook page to share product campaigns, behind the scenes, catwalk footage and company announcements. This was something that the fashionable audience got quite engaged with. Now the brand has amassed more than 17 million followers and over 5 million followers on Twitter.

Their unique content delivery on Bubrerry.com became a talking point amongst other luxury business handlers. Even now, wherever the customer is, if he/she tweets something positive or negative about the Burberry brand, the customer care can have dialogue with them on the same. In real time, if you’re online, you can click to chat and within 20 seconds a sales associate starts having a conversation with you.

They started something called The Art of The Trench movement. A microsite, with Burberry customers all over the world, each one clicks a picture of them wearing a trench and posts it on the website. This is a whole new way of engaging with the millennial consumer who darns for modernity in luxury fashion. Following this, they started with something known as Burberry Acoustic, a platform (on their website) where young and talented artists perform songs wearing the brand’s latest collections. This has become a great way to promote the brand to a key target audience and encourage consumer discussion.

Personalization plays an important factor in Burberry’s agenda so they launched Burberry Bespoke that allows visitors and customers to personalize their own trench coats. From fabrics in different colorations to design and clothing options, each piece is individually hand made and presented in a Burberry box with hand-tied ribbons.

But the digital stratification didn’t stop here, it had to continue. So in 2012, Christopher Bailey along with Angela Ahrendts opened the label’s largest flagship store in London. In a GQ interview Ahrendts said, “We had realized that we had created a lot of platforms thatonly exist online so we decided we had to bring these to life. Our approach to the store was to make a bridge between the online and offline experience. Today I think we’re less concerned about where we actually

shop, and more concerned about the experience we have while we’re shopping.” They called it ‘the store of the future’. Situated on 121 Regent Street and a reincarnation of burberry.com, as one enters the 160,000 square feet space, life begins. Wander around a bit, you will see sales associates with iPads, meanwhile mirrors transforming into screens, thanks to technology sewn into clothing. Garments are fitted with RFID (radio Frequency Identification), as soon as the customer wears a trench coat or picks up an iconic handbag, a live video showcasing the craftsmanship behind the product is streamed.

This is what we call- blurring the lines between physical and digital.

Side-by-side, for the very first time in the history of any luxury brand, Burberry introduced something known as Runway Made To Order With Smart Personalization. After seeing the Fall Winter 2013 show live on their website, a consumer could order outerwear and accessories straight off the show and this practice has been going on till to date. Each piece from the Prorsum line is made to order for you featuring the kind of quality and detail associated with haute couture.

Items are also attached with bespoke nameplates featuring your name and delivered to your home months before the collection arrives in the stores. Seems exciting doesn’t it? The fun doesn’t stop here, a gold card is attached with your order and soon as you tap the same onto your phone (on the Burberry website), the video content showcasing the live making of the product takes place.

After the departure of Angela Ahrendts in 2014, Christopher Bailey was appointed the Chief Executive Officer of the label, along with the position of Creative Director. And since then, he has taken the brand into idiosyncratic new directions. Worldwide store openings are followed by models and fashion shows displayed via holograms inside the store, while runway shows taking place in London’s Kensington Gardens are showcased over thousands of digital screens across all the global Burberry stores. Few months ago, Burberry launched their own music channel on Apple Music alongside Snap Chatting their SS-16 show 24-hours prior to its commencement. With these two geniuses, Burberry’s profits tripled over the decade to a whooping 4 Billion pounds (according to CNBC).

I think today’s generation believes in downloading pictures of coveted items rather than tearing them from a fashion magazine. Burberry has very-well understood this and spent the past few years revamping it’s global business strategy, moving from franchising and licensing to managing its own stores and sales. Grabbing a customer’s attention to ensure that their next splurge will be on Burberry’s recycled reptiles, Christopher and Angela (together) have turned an ageing icon into a global luxury phenomena. ■

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shutterbugs Text by Meenakshi Bajpai

T

he dawn of new-age social media has transformed the way we perceive fashion and it’s culture altogether.

Fashion Photographers have pushed boundaries, and in between the tension of artistic and commercial demands, generated great creativity and challenged ideas. Whether through fashion shoots or advertisements, the images reflect culture, world events and silently note the constant shifts in fashion.

However with increased accessibility, the power of the lens is now with anyone, thanks to a smart phone.

The Millennial era has led a cult of fashion enthusiasts, mostly bloggers who constantly update fashion’s fast-paced offerings with pictures clicked with the latest smartphones or newly bought DSLRs. The new generation is heavily involved with label interactions around the world thanks to the digital domain.

Moving beyond the traditional medium where a select few would attend fashion ateliers for a preview, designers have gone big in terms of collections per year and have expanded the audience like never before. The current era in fashion revolution is where everyone is living attune to the latest happenings with an instant display of pictures.

Steve Jobs once rightly quoted, “I think if you do something and it turns out pretty good, then you should go do something else wonderful, not dwell on it for too long. Just figure out what’s next.” Even reluctant luxury brands have become digitally savvy due to the interactions, engagement and the need to stay relevant. 95% of luxury brands are active on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest fuelling aspirational and inspirational networks that are the perfect platforms to instill desirability among online users. Now that Instagram has

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officially been taken over by bloggers as the trending media force at every Fashion Week, meet the new kid on the block: Snapchat. The latest social media platform has unlocked the world of high fashion to the masses. Bloggers have moved beyond using the camera phone just as a tool on Twitter and Instagram. Live streaming of intimate scenes such as New York Fashion Week has made the event accessible to any part of the world with an Internet connection.

The world of Snapchat offers a new take; reaching a younger audience with in-themoment posts known as ‘snaps’. The messages don’t last for more than a day maintaining an air of exclusivity. This creates hype that one cannot miss out on. These aspects further heighten the curiousity.

A handful of high-fashion brands, including Valentino, Michael Kors and Stella McCartney used Snapchat to offer behind the scenes glimpses of their runway shows. Designers have joined the ranks of fashion editors who have been ‘snapping’ pictures and videos from New York, London, Milan and Paris.

Undoubtedly designers are banking upon social media in big ways this season.

A brand ten steps ahead of their game would be Burberry. With frequent updates on all portals, it dares to define conventions of luxury brands being on social media. It has gone completely Millennial by launching it’s first-ever show on Snapchat declaring it as the hottest app in fashion right now.

The day before the official runway show, Burberry had previewed the new collection live from its design studio in London.

Followers of the brand also got an exclusive

sneak-peek at the full Spring Summer 2016 lineup as finishing touches were being made.

After the initial reveal disappeared from the feed, Snapchatters could follow all the action straight from Kensington Gardens on the day of the show. The Burberry Live Story offered near VIP access to the runway, front row, backstage and beyond—for 24 hours only, of course. A lot of people are fascinated with what Burberry did and used technology for the same. However previewing the collection to the masses a day before the show raised a few eyebrows. Suzy Menkez once rightly quoted, “In my heart, I would wish for young designers not to get hooked on this fascinating but dangerous game. There may be an instant buzz, but I think that a long and steady read – for example, as for Alber Elbaz at Lanvin – is the way to lasting fashion happiness.”

If Facebook is where your friend’s snoopy mum lives and Twitter where wordsmiths show off in 140 characters, then Snapchat is where Generation Z have found their social media identity. Although snaps are shortlived, the app has become one of the most relevant social media tools on the market.

“Traditional social media required that we live experiences in the offline world, record those experiences, and then post them online to recreate the experience and talk about it,” states Spiegel.

Fashion is transitioning into a seamless network. It’s only a matter of time before we’d be transported to the front rows at fashion week, well here’s hoping. ■

Picture Courtesy (left to right): Anti Blogue La Mode, Cosas Online

BEAUTY From the latest beauty trend’s to the best buys of the season, immerse yourself in indulgence as our Beauty Director guides the way...

Illustrated by Duhin Ganju

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THE BIG BANG

90s RED LIPS

This fall it’s no more about bobs and lobs. Big bangs would be the perfect way to stand out of the crowd and look perfect this autumn The Saint Laurent runway, witnessed Hedi Slimane continuing his three-season love affair.

Deep berry colours which were 90’s staple shades have made a comeback. From bold burgundy shades to blood reds, they’ve been spotted from runways to red carpets. From ripe berry lips at Carolina Herrera to plum black lips at Marc Jacobs, it’s time to indulge in rich looking lips.

FALL THE

favourites

From classic shades of rouge to

the graphic eye liner trend, here are the top beauty trends straight from international runways.

Text By Yashna Chopra Picture Courtesy: (Left to right) Google Images, UK, Tom Ford Online, Glamour Magazine UK, Illumin8 Makeup Studio Online, Google

HEAVY METAL

BLEND IN

The season is mainly about dazzling eyes.

Heavy metal is taking over the fashion world. Makeup artists are opting for bronze, classic gold and silver. It gives a pop of shimmer to the look. With this beauty trend, the face looks warmed yet classy. Sparkle and metallics are no longer restricted to eye shadows, but lashes too.

The trend was spotted at Zac Posen and Carolina Herrera at NYFW.

“Less is more” proves fashion’s growing fascination with clean and natural looks.

This Fall will witness some nude and natural looks with the main focus on eyes. It will be a very clean and fresh style enhancing natural beauty. It is a “wake up and go” kind of a look which was seen on the runways too. Perfect skin is the perfect beauty prescription this fall winter.

GRAPHIC EYES

Calling all eye liner fanatics, the eyeliner game has reached new extremes. The new eyeliner trend is bold yet classy. It is being painted in cobalt, brown, red and whites with all sorts of shapes and textures. It is a perfect blend for an intense look. The make up at Fendi’s show by Dior’s Peter Philips was majorly about graphic eye lines and spider leg eye lashes.

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WINTER NINJA

L’ Occitane Shea Butter Ultra-Rich Body Cream

Decode the season with Yashna Chopra

MAGIC ELIXIR

Rating: 9.6*

Moroccan Hydrating Styling Cream

A highly recommended product rich in shea butter, apricot oil and vitamin E, protecting the skin. With amazing moisturising properties, it is a perfect moisturising cream for the season. Keeping the roughest of winter skin hydrated, it will make your skin pure and smooth.

Rating: 9.3* The styling cream helps manage fizziness and roughness of hair leaving them soft and manageable.

With a great positive response to this particular product, it gives amazing results very quickly. It also makes your hair silky and sleek.

Picture Courtesy: (Left to right) John Lewis, Everlasting, L’Occitane, Allure, Infamous Magazine

EVERLASTING

Bobby Brown Rich Lip Colour Rating: 8.5* The range of lip colours is known for its rich long lasting effect. Bobby Brown describes it as “lightweight, yet intense”. The main formula of these shades is it’s rich creamy texture and moisturising effect. The official shades in this category are: Bare Pink, Plum Rose, Rose Blossom, Heather Pink and Mod Pink.

Mod Pink is the perfect pink to go with your evening gowns.

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A moisturizer plus SPF cream that will pamper daily like an enriched spa treatment. Constantly backed up with positive reviews, a user claims “It’s packed with lots of antioxidants, herbal extracts and helps get rid of forehead wrinkles.” It is also known for its long lasting quality and keeps you rejuvenated throughout the day.

BEST BEAUTY BUYS

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RELAX

Estée Lauder Day Wear Advanced Crème

LUSTING FOR LASH YSL Volume Effet Faux Cils

Rating: 9.0* The Volume-effect mascara never clumps or smudges easily, making lashes look long and perfectly curled. YSL claims it’s the best mascara for people who want a gorgeous faux-lash look.

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BEAUTY

“

This is a world of standardization.

To fulfill a woman’s precise desire— that is the ultimate luxury.

rouge allure Into the world of Christian Louboutin Text By Yashna Chopra

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”

Picture Courtesy: (top then bottom left to right) Zastavki, Vogue, Vogue, Shoephoric, Google, Sereinwu

the story

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Known for his towering red soles, Christian Louboutin’s two decade old empire has taken over the industry. Creating a niche for himself with flattering and highly seductive footwear, it all began in 1991 when he opened his first boutique in Paris. His potential was realized and now he owns multiple stores selling a million pairs worldwide.

His super sensual styles and distinctive red lacquered soles are popular worldwide, catering to some glitterati’s such as Nicole Kidman, Catherine Deneuve, Gwyneth Paltrow and Victoria Beckham. Now part of popular culture, his shoes are donned by divas of hip-hop to fashionably famous TV series in “Sex and the City.”

What became his signature element was originally an accidental discovering during his design process. One afternoon when Louboutin was at work, he noticed one of his assistants peacefully painting her nails.

collaborations

“So I grabbed her nail polish and painted the sole and it becomes this red sole, which became my trademark years after,” he said. “Red means love, passion, blood.”

From Sabyasachi, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Azzedine Alaia to Diane Von Furstenberg; the designer has several collaborations to his kitty. He has also worked with young and upcoming names in the industry from Roland Mouret to Rodarte. Not to forget some classic names in fashion like Louis Vuitton and YSL.

noteworthy facts

This eponymous sole became so iconographic that it inspired the Louboutin Manicure. It involved painting the underside of the nail red and the top black.

The very first shoes he ever designed were inspired by the famous image of Diana, Princess of Wales sitting in front of the Taj Mahal during her visit to India in 1992.

Despite a huge personal shoe collection (he has over 100 pairs in his Paris home alone) he often thinks he doesn’t have the right shoes for the right occasion – which, he says, is great because it gives him design ideas. He keeps his shoes in categories; spike-embellished in one cupboard, metal-tipped in another and sneakers in the other. ■

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Black and white top, Zara足足足足. Accessories, The Latest Wrinkles. Makeup, MAC.

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Stripped dress, Atmosphere.

Accessories, Forever 21. Makeup, MAC

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Black and white dress, Forever 21.

Black Jacket, Only.Accessories, Forever 21. Makeup, MAC.

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Check shirt, Van Heusen. Rings, Forever 21. Earrings, The Latest Wrinkles. Makeup, MAC. Nail Paint, Sally Hansen.

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BEAUTY

NATURAL BEAUTY BOUNTIES Into the heart of beauty with Yashna Chopra

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SHEA BUTTER

BEESWAX

SEA SALT

COCOA BUTTER

Extracted from the seed of Shea tress, the super food is packed with rich source of Vitamin E, A and F. It is an important ingredient for lotions, face creams and deodorants. Blessed with excellent moisturizing and healing properties, it has a rich white creamy colour with a distinct smell.

It prevents stretch marks, scars and skin ageing. It restores skin elasticity with richness of antioxidant content.

Nature’s ultimate gift of hydration, it is actively used in lip balms, foot creams, perfumes and lotions with wax acting as a thickening agent. It has a very deep gold color with a rich smoky aroma. It moisturizes, hydrates and increases skin elasticity.A natural emollient that softens and soothes skin thus prevents water loss. It is a beauty ingredient that softens, hydrates, and replenishes skin.

Naturally produced and extracted after a tedious process, the ingredient is packed with crucial nutrients for skin, health and hair.

From scrubs to antiperspirants, it regenerates skin and helps tone it, preventing stretch marks, scars and skin ageing. With its antioxidant content, it restores skin elasticity.

From chocolates to ointments, it is a pale-yellow extract of a cocoa bean also called Theobroma oil.

With a strong Cocoa aroma, its rich and creamy texture helps reduce dryness. Its restorative quality revives liveliness of the skin. With effective healing properties, it helps get rid of scars.

b beauty bloggers The digital dummy to a beauty makeover with Yashna Chopra

LA LA MER

Inspired from La La land (Los Angeles), Mariana Hewitt loves sharing her beauty tips. She is an on air beauty blogger and host known for recreating celebrity looks creatively. She can perfect a shining make up look in just 5 minutes. Individuals love the way she regularly updates them about the upcoming beauty trends in fashion. Whether its Kendall’s new look or Kylie’s new lip color, you can uncover all the secrets on her blog.

BEAUTY BETS Beauty bets is the perfect blog for natural beauty fanatics and detox junkies. Elizabeth Deh’n started her beauty and lifestyle blog in 2009. She is known for her no-nonsense reviews and creative beauty DIY’s that she imparts to her fans on her blog. Her videos guides us through all the natural ways of doing make up, cleaning brushes, removing make-up and other daily life make-up

Image Credits: Sourced from blogs

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omeone rightly stated, “Beauty has no boundaries”. The new generation of blogging has certainly gone to the next level with its growing accessibility. Adapting to the changing times, the marketing strategies of brands have also undergone a transformation. Earlier it was print advertisement through which trending products would surface the market. Whereas now, there are perfect beauty guides available digitally thanks to the presence of beauty bloggers.

Adding to the versatility of choices on the digital domain, there are beauty bloggers who approach natural products while others pay attention to the best and latest beauty products for the perfect look. Through their blogs they teach their followers Make-up DIY’s, tips about their beauty regimes and constantly update them about new make-up products in the market. They help beauty lovers learn how to groom themselves through their regular blog posts.

Reviewing some of the most luxurious beauty products available on the shelves, here are some of the most widely followed bloggers:

BEAUTY IS BORING

BEAUTY BANTER

Unlike the name of the blog, Robin Black’s beauty blog is known for her numerous beauty and make up ideas. A make-up artist and fashion photographer, she creates entrancing and impactful images in magazines as well as her blog. Her blog provides an insight into the trending make up products. She offers hundreds of make-up ideas on her blog. The site veers towards the edgy, and always has a good sense of wit.

Los Angeles based beauty consultant Sarah Howard beautifully gives us an insider’s look on beauty. She has been a beauty fan since childhood with her father being a stylist.

She talks to people, solves their queries and helps them tackle their beauty issues. Her way of dealing with people and inspiring them in many different ways makes her unique.

She also shares photos of people who are inspired by her and follow her tips, making her blog interesting.

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LE LUXE SHOP

Aditi Koushik (9873419061) Akassh K Aggarwal at Buzzaria, Bhram House F/343 Lado Sarai, Delhi ( 9873156254) Anamika Khanna at Kolkata (033 22281 4425) Banana Republic (www.bananarepublic.com) Bulgari (www.bvlgari.com ) Cara Jewelers (www.carajewellers.com) Cartier at DLf Emporio, Dehli ( 011 467 8888), Mumbai (022 2269 2169) Chandani Mohan (https://www.notjustalabel.com, info@selvage.com ) Deeksha Talrejia (9953288185) Dhruv Kapoor at 818 Udyog Vihar, Phase 5, Gurgaon Haryana (rohan@dhruvkapoor.com) EKA (91 9830152625 / +91 9830015425), ektaruchira.ekru@gmail.com Forever 21 at Select City walk mall, Delhi ( 011 46064444) Mumbai (02260600224) H&M at Select City walk mall Delhi (01171071300) Hats Off Accessories (9999001403) Lanvin (www.lanvin.com ) Latest Wrinkles by Yashna Chopra at Delhi ( 9999936818) Louise Phillipe at Select City Walk Mall, Delhi M.A.C at Select City Walk Delhi (011 46098541), Mumbai (02267104513) Mango at Delhi ( 0114265860), Mumbai (02224813550) Mehandee Dureja at Delhi (9999951149) Prada (www.prada.com) Rag & Bone (www.rag-bone.com) Rashmi Varma at 211 Shahpur Jat (info@rashmiverma.com) (8588808094) Rhythm Aggarwal (9999853222) Swarovski at Select city walk, Delhi (011 4606 0924), Mumbai (022 6180 1201) Tiffany and Co. (www.tiffany.com) TopShop (www.topshop.com) Urvashi Kaur (+91 9891228951 / +919999229369 /+91 11 46219922) Valentino (www.valentino.com) Zara at Select City walk mall, Delhi (011 41057414) Mumbai (022 43473850) 7 For All Mankind (customerservice@shop.7forallmankind.com)

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MASSIH AZAD GUEST CONTRIBUTER Fashion is changing. But in order to move forward we need to be well-versed with the past. And that is what Le Luxe is all about, a retrospective towards sustainable luxury. I had the wonderful priviledge to be a part of this magazine.

Especially, modelling for the Gender Blur shoot, the concept of which not only intrigued me but also gave me an insight onto the feminine and masculine dialogue.

Moving on to the cover, Green Is The New Black. What these guys wanted to show was that unfinished garments made up of the lightest of materials, could speak a different language altogether.

That's what the power of minimalism is, attracting the viewer's attention in the simplest of manner. I had a roller-coaster ride and I hope you guys also have one, as you touch upon each page.

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