SGN September 20, 2013 - Section 3 - Fall Arts & Wedding

Seattle Gay News

Issue 38, Volume 41 September 20, 2013

Arts and Wedding special

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by Albert Rodriguez SGN A&E Writer Hotel du Palais

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Cathédrale Sainte-Marie

Believe it or not, there’s more to France than Paris. An hour and twenty minutes away by plane is one of the most reputable wine regions in the entire world, an area carpeted by vineyards, wineries, and timeless country estates. The scenery changes further as you go south – you come across seaside villages, sandy beaches, and even a mountainous terrain that borders another country. If you’re longing for a quieter, slower paced, less touristy and very authentic slice of the French lifestyle, this should do the trick. For visitor information, go to www.tourisme-aquitaine. fr. Here’s a five-day itinerary for your trip.

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GETTING THERE Although Delta flies nonstop between Seattle and Paris, you might appreciate the experience of a larger aircraft and better on-board service of Air France (www.airfrance.us) with a quick connection through Los Angeles or San Francisco. The French airline utilizes wide-body Airbus A-380 planes for its 10-to-11-hour flights from the West Coast to Charles de Gaulle Airport (CDG), accommodating passengers on upper and lower

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deck cabins. The food in Economy was particularly good, yet even more impressive was the attentive and kind-natured service from the flight crew. I was delighted that the fresh bread for lunch and dinner was distributed from a basket instead of being pre-wrapped in plastic and plopped on our trays. At CDG, the terminals for my international and domestic flights were conveniently less than 10 minutes apart, but the customs lines were notably long. If you can afford the splurge, the new Air France Salon Lounge in Terminal 2E is spacious, chic, and stocked with premiere champagne, beer, and snacks.

DAYS 1 & 2: BORDEAUX Commence your visit in Bordeaux, the capital of the Aquitaine region and a thriving cultural hub with outdoor art installations, world-class ballet productions, live music performances, and outstanding museums. The city of about 240,000 residents is compact and easy to navigate, with a great light-rail system making it even easier. An afternoon stroll through town provides lots see bordeaux page 19

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Celebrating 40 Years!

Stunning

Honeymooning down South?

This picturesque city is the perfect place

by Jerry L. Peerson Special to the SGN

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learn about S a v a n n a h’s deep and sometimes dark history, why it is at times referred to as an “urban forest,” as well as why homeowners living within the 2.5 miles and 20 city squares of the National Historic District must acquire permission before painting their house. A short 30-minute jaunt out of the city is the award-winning, free-spirited Tybee Island Beach, also known as Savannah Beach. This diverse playground on

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the Atlantic has a jovial, relaxed atmosphere. As Erica of Visit Savannah (www.visitsavannah.com) humorously describes it, Tybee is a place with “a high degree of body confidence – where you’ll see everything from stretch marks to jelly rolls to bullet holes.” This come-as-you-are, everyone-iswelcome vibe permeates up and down the beach and gives a nod to Savannah’s cheerful, unpretentious atmosphere.

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STAY Days of sunning, feasting, and drinking would make anyone ready for a cozy rest.

One of the finest places in town to spend the night is the Bohemian Hotel Savannah Riverfront (www.bohemianhotelsavannah.com). A beautifully elegant old inn, the Bohemian has spacious rooms – some with views of the Savannah River – filled with tactfully designed new and old furnishings melding a rough, Southern marshland grit with a delightfully open, modern glitz. You can sway into the night to the music of buskers filling the air with the sound of their saxophones while you watch boats ply up and down the river well into the evening.

Jer ry L. Pee

rtsy, tree-shaded Savannah, Georgia, is situated just inland from a concave portion of the southern Atlantic coast. The coastline is often referred to by locals as the “bite out of the peach” thanks to its shape, and is credited with helping the Peachtree State avoid many of the massive storms that have ravaged the region. A picturesque and timeless city, founded in 1733 by British general James Oglethorpe, offers a mix of historic sites, in particular the beautiful neo-classical and Greek Revival mansions one often associates with the South, as well as a progressive food, arts, and nightlife scene.

Savannah is popular with weekend travelers from Atlanta, Charleston, and Jacksonville as well as visitors from farther afield – all of whom are enticed by the mild coastal weather, homey atmosphere, and flurry of artistic innovation in the streets and on the table.

The Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD – www.scad.edu) has contributed immensely to the city’s culture and progressive attitude. The SCAD Museum of Art (www.scadmoa.org) hosts an ever-changing display of current and former students’ work, and new murals and sculptures are constantly going up throughout the city. Savannah also enjoys an innovative culinary scene. Many restaurants take inspiration as well as ingredients from the nearby sea, serving up all sorts of prawn, crab, and fish dishes, and from the inland agricultural area, with its plethora organic fruits and vegetables.

EXPLORE For an informative and leisurely stroll to explore Savannah’s story – past, present, and future – one of the finest and most detailed walking tours around can he experienced in town with Jonathan Stalcup, SCAD graduate and owner of Architectural Tours of Savannah (www.architecturalsavanna h. com). You’ll

DINE For a superbly Southern experience, the 700 Kitchen Cooking School (www. chefdarin.com) offers an array of educational, eclectic, and equally entertaining culinary classes. Darin Sehnert, who was recently nominated as one of the South’s greatest chefs, leads his students in the pursuit of perfect technique as well as an understanding of ingredients and pairing. If you’re fortunate enough to enroll in one of see savannah page 23

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Your new place in the sun Albert Rodriguez

BC’s Sunshine Coast presents the ideal setting for Gay honeymooners Albert Rodriguez

by Albert Rodriguez SGN Travel Writer Most visitors who pass through British Columbia go to one of only three places – Vancouver, Victoria, or Whistler. But if you prefer a more backwoods Canadian experience, put the Sunshine Coast on your must-go-to list. Named for its 2,400 hours of annual sunshine, the region is speckled with port towns and tucked-away resorts amidst lush Douglas fir and red cedar tree forests, and it’s a destination that allows LGBT travelers to glamp it up. In other words, if you want to “rough it” with modern amenities, here’s where to do it.

And for the Joni Mitchell faithful, you just might bump into her because she lives on the Sunshine Coast and has been known to come out of seclusion now and then. The unspoiled scenery and calm ambiance are the perfect combination for a honeymoon, anniversary, or couples’ getaway. There is a scattered LGBT community in this wooded area that gathers occasionally in the town of Gibsons, making it an inviting destination for all types of folks. Here’s what you might want to know before planning a trip to the Sunshine Coast. For additional information, go to the Vancouver Coast and Mountains visitor website, http:// vcmbc.com.

suming to get from downtown Vancouver to the Sunshine Coast. Simply drive or take public bus #C12 to Horseshoe Bay (15 to 20 minutes) and then board a ferry to Langdale (35 to 40 minutes). Those with a vehicle can reach the town of Gibsons within 10 minutes and have lunch near the water, or keep driving northbound for an hour and reach the picturesque spots of Pender Harbour and Madeira Park, and stay the night. The Sunshine Coast is not an island, although one can only access it by ferry or plane.

ACCOMMODATIONS Rockwater Secret Cove Resort & Spa (http://rockwatersecretcoveresort.com) is about as secluded as you can get, which translates to lots of peace and quiet for newlyweds or traveling partners. Unique to this property are its “tenthouse suites” – large, airy tents with tubs, showers, heaters, work desks, comfy beds, board games, umbrellas, and upscale soaps and lotions. Each of the 13 tents has a spacious deck where you can inhale the fresh air and beautiful sights, and the only way to access them is from a zigzagged boardwalk that runs from the lodge – itself providing 14 traditional rooms for those wanting a more traditional hotel-like experience. A reasonably sized rectangular pool is adjacent to the lodge.

The resort restaurant boasts a superb seGETTING THERE lection of fish, meat, and pasta dishes such It’s neither complicated nor time-con- as West Coast Bouillabaisse, Fire Roasted

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Fraser Valley Pork Rack Chop, and Fresh Farmed Trout. Morning breakfasts are hearty and delicious as well, with popular choices from Crab Cakes Eggs Benedict to Orange and Strawberry French Toast. WiFi can be spotty as you get farther from the lodge – but then again, you’re in near-total seclusion.

Another place to overnight, slightly north of Rockwater, is Painted Boat Resort Spa & Marina (www.paintedboat.com). This waterside property offers more luxurious amenities, as guests can stay in familystyle townhouses with multiple bedrooms on three levels, full kitchens, fireplaces, washer/dryers, and large patios to soak in the view of docked fishing boats, lavish hillside estates, and tiny ripples in the marina. Definitely indulge at the Spa, where the outdoor waterfall Jacuzzi alleviates stress from sore muscles before your therapist works out the kinks during your treatment (sadly, my therapist had the hands of a harpist, although my travel companions fared better with their masseuses). I was wowed by the Painted Boat’s on-site restaurant (simply called The Restaurant), where I thoroughly enjoyed a perfectly cooked Haida Gwaii Halibut accompanied with ricotta gnocchi, arugula puree, and pickled beet emulsion in an elegant-yetmodest dining room. A three-and-a-halffoot-deep infinity pool and workout area are also on the premises, along with private event space for weddings and receptions.

EXPLORE You’re not going to encounter a multitude of tourist activities on the Sunshine Coast because it’s not a destination meant to keep you busy – the purpose is to come here, unwind, and do little or nothing at all. That said, I do suggest a couple of excursions to familiarize yourself with the locale.

A midday or evening meal at The Lighthouse Pub (www.lighthousepub.ca), in the quaint town of Sechelt, affords you interaction with friendly residents and decent grub that can be eaten inside alongside pool tables and TV tuned to hockey, or outside surrounded by nature. SloCat (www.slocat.ca) is a boat ride in and around Pender Harbour, where Kenmore Air flies directly from Seattle and where you’ll come faceto face-with wildlife from seals to bald eagles. Multimillion-dollar homes dot the landscape, as do small hotels and impeccable vistas. Lastly, Madeira Park is the main business hub of Pender Harbour, a short walk from the Painted Boat resort, and it’s here that you can blend in with locals, possibly over homemade soups and sandwiches at Copper Sky Gallery and Cafe (http://earthlycreature.com), which is part art gallery, part artisan gift shop, and part cozy eatery. And if you’re there the weekend of September 20-22, check out the Pender Harbour Jazz Festival (info at http://penderharbourmusic.ca/jazz-festival/).

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by James Whitely SGN Staff Writer 30 years ago, Greg Kucera began his eponymous art gallery, Greg Kucera Gallery (GKG), in Seattle’s Pioneer Square neighborhood. For three decades, he’s featured nationally and internationally known artists, as well as many artists from the Pacific Northwest. Currently, GKG is one of the leading private galleries in the city and a popular destination for the Pioneer Square Art Walk. Earlier this week, Kucera offered me a private tour of his gallery and detailed the philosophy by which he’s operated it for 30 years.

As we move about the gallery, Kucera points out a series of oil paintings on canvas. Seemingly regionalist in subject matter, they’re also reminiscent of pointillism. A muted palette complimented by pastel tones gives the works a sense of dolefulness.

It’s the work of 87-year-old New York artist David Byrd, who’d spent decades of his life painting in his home with no one the wiser. Kucera said he’d learned of the painter though another artist, who discov- vate business,” says Kucera. “Through cuered him by chance. Thrilled by the work, rated shows, I show my artists within the Kucera offered Byrd his first commercial context they deserve among other artists gallery showing. Scarcely more than a month after the opening, Byrd passed away.

The experience was disarming for Kucera, yet satisfying and meaningful, not unlike some of Byrd’s work. In drafting the gallery’s 30th anniversary announcement, Kucera speculated that artists in his life have come and gone, just as assuredly as his own tastes have changed through the course of three decades. It seems likely that his short meeting and parting with Byrd earlier this year is part of what has brought these things to mind.

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artist peeling back a kimono to reveal Superman’s signature outfit. In some of these pieces, identity tensions are expressed through images of actual fighting, with the artist placing himself in both winning and losing positions.

Shimomura spent two years of his early childhood at Camp Minidoka in Hunt, Idaho, an internment camp for Japanese Americans during World War II. “That experience has informed his whole body of creative work,” says Kucera.

Complimenting these pieces is a series of 20 American couples in love, produced just after the DOMA repeal. They feature couples of various sexualities, ethnic identities, and degrees of adherence to cultural tradition, yet they’re all presented as Americans. The current exhibit runs through September 28.

and wit to her sculptures.”

“I chose Deborah Butterfield’s work as my 30th anniversary exhibition because she has singularly enabled me to take chances in many ways with other artists, business decisions, and life choices that I could not have seen for myself in 1983,” says Kucera.

“Working with her has probably been the most substantial work we’ve done. She’s brought us a lot of opportunities that we wouldn’t otherwise have had.”

Greg Kucera Gallery is at 212 3rd Ave. S., Seattle. For more information visit www. gregkucera.com.

CELEBRATING 30 YEARS On October 3, GKG marks its 30th anniversary with an exhibit by Montana-based artist Deborah Butterfield.

Butterfield’s sculptures use horses as her primary subject matter. While many of her admirers are lovers of horses, Kucera’s interest in the artist lies elsewhere.

“As pure sculpture, her works are extremely meaningful to me. Particularly in her use of found materials, be they scavenged chunks of wood or twisted scraps of rusted, painted metal, Butterfield brings intelligence, ingenuity,

Greg Kucera

Andrew Waits

COURTING CONTROVERSY As we continue around the gallery, Kucera explains that the absence of digital art in the space is due to his personal preference. He looks for what he calls “the hand in the national scene. of the artist” I choose to take perwhen he’s consonal and political sidering subviewpoints, and to missions, “art fight battles with my that reveals the business. Because my making of the name is on the door, art object.” He it’s my right, indeed seeks not only my heartfelt duty, to an intimate do so.” connection to the piece, but KEEPING the artist who PERSPECTIVE made it. This, Inside his office, he says, makes I’m shown a rare his gallery “a letterpress print of little more conUntitled (One day servative than this kid …), the wellothers.” If true, Works by Roger Shimomura known 1990 David it’s only in the sense of selected mediums, because Kucera Wojnarowicz piece that shows a young boy, is certainly not afraid of controversial art – foregrounding bolded text with jarring language, that details the abuse and hardship he embraces it.

The late ’80s were a peak point of conten- he will one day face because he is Gay. The piece is important to Kucera as a Gay tion in the art world for what was or wasn’t “art” (though arguably this could be said of man himself, but he’s demonstrated that the entirety of art history.) With his 1989 ex- LGBT issues aren’t all he’s interested in hibition “Taboo,” Kucera brought in some when it comes to art as social commentary.

“It doesn’t rule my life here any more than of the most incendiary artists at the center of that debate – Robert Mapplethorpe, Sally it does elsewhere,” says Kucera.

He says he’s featured “a number of Gay Mann, Andres Serrano, and others.

That show, says Kucera, “was a response artists over the years,” but that’s only “one to the questions to the public at the moment aspect of the program he’s featured” and about whether this was valid art. I tend to that he strives for diversity. think that artists shine the light forward for PRESENT OFFERINGS us and show us the issues of our time before The current show at the front of the galwe even realize them as issues.”

Over the next few years, Kucera brought lery is “An American Knockoff,” paintings in more controversial work that engaged by Roger Shimomura. Shimomura appears politics, religion, sex, and the body in revo- to be addressing both his internalized and lutionary new ways. Ultimately, the exhi- perceived identities through these pop-art bitions kept the public paying attention to works by placing himself inside them – the the gallery, which is probably part of why exhibit is a series of self-portraits, many of Kucera’s been able to keep his business run- them with ironic titles. Japanese Imposter (2009) places the artist in a sumo ring; ning for three decades.

“I have a great deal of freedom as a pri- American in Disguise (2012) features the

Sculptures by Deborah Butterfield

Celebrating 40 Years!

Let’s Get Married

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Celebrating 40 Years!

Miranda Loud / Orpheus Photography

A season of musical treasures

Pacific MusicWorks gears up for a fabulous fall

by Rod Parke SGN A&E Writer

We all know people who are special because of the level of love they have for their work. At the top of that fortunate group are those whose passion for their trade is so intense that to speak with them about their labors is like opening a magic door that invites you irresistibly into their world of wonders and exhilaration. You feel their passions and, for a while, thrill to the kind of joy they themselves experience.

Such a man is Stephen Stubbs, founder and director of Pacific MusicWorks, Seattle’s world-class early music organization.

(Try it next time you bump into him: just ask him a musical question and see how long the conversation lasts!) In a moment of selfawareness, he began our interview with, “Do you want to ask me questions, or shall I just start talking?” Though I had questions, he didn’t need them to start a half-hour-long flood of information and shared enthusiasm for the coming season of Pacific MusicWorks. (Visit their very informative website for details: www.pacificmusicworks.org.)

Of timely note, September 31 is the last date on which you can order season tickets, getting the best seats while saving money.

‘JUST GO!’ You can, of course, get the dates and content of each event in the season from the website, but allow me to speak of the overall quality you can expect from PMW concerts.

First, to quote from The Seattle Times: “If Pacific MusicWorks ever does a concert ...

just go!” So reliable has been the excellence of these events that I do not hesitate to second that emotion. Whether it’s an intimate evening, such as the October 25 “Welcome to All the Pleasures” at the lovely Seattle First Baptist Church, or a gigantic undertaking like the recent Monteverdi Vespers in the ideal acoustic of St. James Cathedral, PMW just can’t be bettered anywhere for a meaningful and exhilarating musical experience. Seattle is especially blessed to have such a performance group, in addition to the work of the Early Music Guild, which is less a performing group than an entrepreneur of early music, sponsoring local and international musicians.

Stubbs, like Seattle Opera Director Speight Jenkins, has a great ear for terrific singers who not only have excellent voices but also know how to sell a song. Like Seattle Opera, PMW sees these singers eager to return to Seattle because their musical experiences are so richly rewarding under Stubbs’ direction. Also, Stubbs has an admirable ability to choose venues with appropriate acoustics. St. James Cathedral was an important asset for the Vespers, whereas you won’t likely hear PMW in Town Hall’s extremely problematic acoustic. On every level, PMW will make each concert as close to ideal as possible.

NOW PART OF UW I wish I had space and time enough to go into details about each show coming up, but that’s what websites are for! I do wish to share the news that Stubbs and his PMW are now also a part of the University of Wash-

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Pacific MusicWorks founder and director Stephen Stubbs

ington’s music department, giving Stubbs all the more reason to stay at home in his native city, as well as access to the nearly ideal Meany Theater for the upcoming presentation of Handel’s opera Semele on May 16 and 17, 2014. Between that production and the opening concert (above), we will also see Bach’s St. John Passion (in conjunction with Seattle Symphony’s concert of the St. Matthew Passion) in March at the Nordstrom Recital Hall (in Benaroya Hall), and legendary bass Harry van der Kamp with

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violin virtuoso Monica Huggett and Stubbs on the lute with a 10-member ensemble in a concert entitled “The Vocal Concerto” in April. Of special interest is that the St. John Passion will be performed (as Bach may have preferred) with the nine soloists also taking on the choral sections. Nordstrom Recital Hall is a loud acoustic, so be prepared to be “blown away” by these forces!

Reviewer Rod Parke can be reached at rmp62@columbia.edu.

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Celebrating 40 Years!

rington (painter and companion of Lytton Strachey), Canadian author Elizabeth Smart (no relation to Carolyn), and American authors Carson McCullers (The Heart is a Lonely Hunter) and Jane Bowles (Two Serious Ladies).

Guadagni and Smart have known each other for a number of years, and when Guadagni was offered a preview of Smart’s book she knew it had the potential to be a wonderful theater piece. “You luck out sometimes and get your hands on a brilliant text and you’re compelled by that text.

Carolyn Smart’s Hooked is an astonishing script,” said Guadagni.

Guadagni brings to life each of these women as they look back on their obsessions, their twisted families, and their demon angels. This is a production devastatingly articulate about rich, creative women hobbled by history, powerful men, and strong liquor.

Born in Montreal, Guadagni studied dra-

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ma in London at the Royal Academy of Dramatic Art. One of her first roles was Miranda (opposite Paul Scofield as Prospero) in a legendary production of The Tempest in London’s West End. Since returning to Canada in the 1970s, she has performed a great variety of roles in TV, theater, and film.

Hooked was nominated for Best Production and Best Actress honors at the Summerworks Festival in Toronto last year. Performed at the 2013 Edinburgh Fringe Festival, it received critical praise for both writing and performance.

For more information on Hooked, visit www.hookedtheplay.ca, and for general information about the Seattle Fringe Festival, go to http://seattlefringefestival.org. Tickets are available online at www.click4tix.com.

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photos by Christopher Dew

HOOKED NW FILM FORUM 2 September 18 – 22 Hooked – a one-woman show about seven of the most notorious and eccentric females in recent history – will make its U.S. debut at this year’s Seattle Fringe Festival.

Performed by award-winning actress Nicky Guadagni and based on a book of brilliant poems by Canadian poet Carolyn Smart, professor of creative writing at Queen’s University, Hooked’s monologues offer a stark, honest, and unapologetic peek behind the curtain at seven women – some famous, some infamous, others nearly entirely overlooked by history, each one individual and illustrative, giving voice to tales of obsession, thwarted desires, and ambition frustrated by illness and addiction: Myra Hindley (the notorious Moors Murderess), Unity Mitford (who had an unfortunate affection for Hitler), Zelda Fitzgerald (wife and muse of F. Scott Fitzgerald), Dora Car-

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Make your wedding day memorable at this idyllic countryside retreat from the dark pink of plum blossoms through the pale white of the apples.

It finishes with the purple flower of the wisteria on the barn, grown from a cutting taken from Mr. Condit’s childhood home.

The inhabitants of Downton Abbey would feel right at home with the English country garden up at the main house and its conservatory built in England. The garden was designed by Mrs. Condit using native plants of the Northwest. The colors bloom throughout the summer against the backdrop of the pond and gazebo. The small vineyard was added as a nod to the couple’s favorite holidays in Italy. One of the varieties was also chosen because it has the best leaves for making stuffed grape leaves, a family favorite.

The house on the hill when the Condits purchased the property was a 1970s ranch-style home. While the footprint is the same, the redesigned house has an open-plan kitchen and living room with a fireplace of local riverstone at its heart.

The three bedrooms with views of the garden, pond, and mountains are tucked away behind the living area.

by Nicole Condit Duncan Special to the SGN October 13th will begin like most days at Storybook Farm, with everyone sitting on the wrap-around plantation porch with a cup of hot coffee and a breakfast of farm-fresh eggs, watching the sunrise over the Cascades. But that promises to be the only quiet moment of the day. By early afternoon guests will be joining the farm staff to munch delicious treats from caterers including Twelve Baskets and Herban Feast while tapping their feet to music by the Haggis Brothers and Harold Belskus at Storybook Farm’s first Wedding and Event Open House.

The 68-acre property along Patterson Creek between Redmond and Fall City was first homesteaded at the end of the 19th century. Continuously farmed for 125 years, the area has remained a rural retreat even as Seattle grew from a timber town into one of the nation’s largest metropolitan areas.

Phil and Geda Condit purchased the farm 14 years ago from the family who bought it from the original homesteaders. The property appealed to them because it was a quiet place to unwind but still convenient to Seattle and Bellevue.

They wanted to build on the family-farm feeling and over the years have made the property the center of family gatherings and events. In April 2012, the family decided to open for weddings, events, and corporate meetings so others could enjoy it.

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IMAGINE THE POSSIBILITIES The open house will showcase the different venues available at the farm for weddings and other events – the sweet bunkhouse that makes a nice backdrop to the ceremony, the large barn space for dinner and dancing, the garden and gazebo for an intimate exchange of vows, and dinner by the vineyard. Local wedding planners, caterers, bands, DJs, and florists will be on hand with great ideas for any wedding.

While the property has a lot of history behind it, it needed updating when it was

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purchased. The Condits lovingly rebuilt the traditional red barn and added work sheds and a small mill. For a bit of whimsy, the outbuildings were fashioned after a Western town. Every farm dog knows being kenneled at night is like going to jail, so at Storybook Farm that’s exactly where they spend the night. The small home near the barn was completely redesigned into a cozy country cottage.

Spring is one of the loveliest times of year on the farm. The orchards are filled with plum, pear, and apple trees so spring moves

IN HARMONY WITH NATURE The creek and its tributaries are traditional salmon runs, and the Condits have been working closely with conservation groups and government agencies to restore them after decades of erosion from farming. Their grandsons’ greatest desire is to see some otters back in the creek as well.

Restoring the farm has been a project of love for the family and a place full of memories. As a wedding venue, it will be a place where more memories are made.

The wedding and event open house runs from 1 to 5 p.m. on Sunday, October 13. More information can be found at www.storybookpartners.com.

Celebrating 40 Years!

closing sale Africa Mama 75-90% OFF 129Store Broadway E, 98102 (206) 856-2310 Ethnic Art & Gift Gallery

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continued from cover of photo opportunities, especially along the Garonne, a river that runs along the rim of downtown Bordeaux and flows through northern Spain. You’ll discover the Notre Dame and Grand Théâtre de Bordeaux on your walk, and you’ll also come across the Maison du Vin, where you can sample wines exclusively from the region inside an immaculate building with stained-glass windows and a sleek bar-lounge called Le Bar a Vin. You can break for a pint of Mascaret, a beloved microbrewed lager, and take in a movie at the independent cinema Utopia (www.cinemas-utopia.org). In the evening, you might opt to explore the local Gay bar scene at Le Go West (www.legowest.com), Le Shine Disco (www.shineclub. fr), The Stereo (www.facebook.com/stereoklubs), or the edgier Buster Bar (www. buster-bordeaux.com). Or perhaps some early-morning fun at Sauna Saint Jean (www.saunasaintjean.com) is more your speed. For more information on Bordeaux’s LGBT community and businesses, stop by Le Girofard (www.le-girofard.org), a valuable resource center for Gay men and women since 2007.

venture.

For accommodations, I recommend Le Saint-James (www.saintjames-bouliac.com), across the picturesque Pont de Pierre bridge in the serene town of Bouliac, overlooking Bordeaux. An 18th-century farmhouse converted into a contemporary hotel and restaurant, it boasts a small vineyard and cooking school that allows guests and outsiders to take lessons from a skilled chef. I was wowed by the displayed art pieces in the hallways and my room amenities, from wall-mounted CD player to personal brewing system with Illy coffee to a heated towel rack, yet most of all I loved waking up to crisp mornings with complete tranquility and the gentle sound of chirping birds.

In the city, I suggest the Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux (www.ghbordeaux. com), across from the Grand Theatre and footsteps from restaurants, bars, and retail stores. Rooms are elegant, if not cozy, with top-of-the-line amenities – slippers, flat-panel cable TV, scented lotions and soaps, plush armchairs – and a fabulous restaurant with views of passersby below. If staying at Le Saint-James, the Café

albert rodriguez

bordeaux

Grand Hotel de Bordeaux

Bordeaux River Cruise (www.bordeauxriver-cruise.com) offers daily excursions on a fleet of modern, small-to-medium-sized boats. The company’s popular wine cruises depart at 10:30 a.m. and include wine tastings at well-known chateaux along the Garonne, on-board lunch, guided tour of the masonry with stunning panoramic view of the islands, bus transportation to the “route des chateaux,” visit and wine tasting at the Grand Clu Classe in Medoc, and your 6:30 p.m. return to Bordeaux. Cost is 98 euros per person, or a half-day program from 1:30 p.m. to 7 p.m. is only 48 euros per person.

The Bordeaux River Cruise staff, besides being distractingly attractive, were quite knowledgeable and helpful during our ad-

de l’Espérance (www.cafe-esperance. com), a two-minute walk on a cobblestone street, is an intimate bistro with an atriumstyle back patio and delicious food, like allyou-can-eat appetizers.

DAYS 3 & 4: BIARRITZ & BASQUE COUNTRY The resort area of Biarritz is cradled by the Pyrenees and Bay of Biscay, making it a sublime vacation spot for those wanting a mix of beach activities and mountain treks on their itinerary. Le Grande Plage now attracts top surfers throughout Europe and hosts various events during the year, like the Biarritz Surf Festival and Quicksilver/Roxy Jam tournament. Once you’ve

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ing on-site restaurant for both dinner and breakfast (I felt like royalty, honestly), and the fresh cherries with chilled bottled water in my room. For a subtler alternative, L’Auberge Basque (www.aubergebasque. com) is a lovely boutique hotel in Saint-Pee with charmingly decorated rooms, rainwater showers, work desks, hardwood floors, and an award-winning restaurant that looks out to a manicured lawn and the foothills of the Pyrenees.

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albert rodriguez

Biarritz, France

splashed in the water and meandered through the town streets, accented by a bevy of high-end designer stores and touristy souvenir shops, it’s then time to explore the Basque Country. It takes less than a half-hour from Biarritz to enter this green, hilly area speckled with cattle and sheep farms, sloping villages, and fields of espelette, a red pepper grown only in these parts and used for savory and sweet food items. The coolest way to experience this journey is with Passion Côte Basque (www.passion-cotebasque.com), a local tour company providing guided expeditions up and over the mountain roads in SUVs. Our hunky driver, Adrian, gave us a really informative and personal narration of the Basque Country – he was born and raised here, so we were told stories and details that would’ve otherwise been unrevealed. We even had time for lunch at Venta Burkaitz (no website, refer to Aquitaine tourism site), a family-owned hideaway on the Spanish side of the border, and we also paused to take pictures along pasture-lined roads and made pit stops at two villages for souvenir purchases and a quick beer. If a daytrip through Basque Country isn’t on your bucket list, it should be now.

In Biarritz, the Hotel du Palais (www. hotel-du-palais.com) is a luxury ocean-side property with impeccable views and an A-list clientele, originally built as a summer palace for Empress Eugenie, wife of Napoleon III, in the mid-1800s. Though it is immaculate and the service is first class, the rooms appeared dated and oddly laid out. I did, however, immensely enjoy the large indoor pool and sauna, its proximity to the town center and casino, the amaz-

DAYS 4 & 5: BAYONNE & SAINT-EMILION Bayonne is a hilltop city founded by the Romans that served as the old highway between Paris and Madrid. Today, it’s a remarkably dapper place, known for its easygoing lifestyle and drinking chocolate.

Recommended for an afternoon excursion, sites to check out are the gothic-looking Cathédrale Sainte-Marie, Basque Museum, Bonnat Museum, and a walk on either side of the Nive, a river splitting Bayonne into the old and new sections of town. Before flying back home, be sure to visit the medieval village of Saint-Emilion, just outside Bordeaux. Every vision you’ve ever had of the French countryside – rolling green hills, petite maisons scattered throughout, a cathedral steeple poking up in the distance, and vineyards coating the landscape as if completing a big jigsaw puzzle – is staring directly at you. The cobblestone streets of the miniscule town center lead you into artisan craft stores, wine shops, macaroon vendors, outdoor patios, and adorable restaurants, such as 3 Fontaines (26 Rue de la Porte Bouqueyre), where a simple lunch of regional charcuterie and cheese – with glasses of Bordeaux wine, of course – stood out as one of my better meals on this trip to France. Magically, there’s a splendid B&B in Saint-Emilion connected to a winery for anyone wanting a tranquil, postcard-backdrop overnight destination. Les Belles Perdrix (www.chateau-troplong-mondot.com) is a guesthouse and restaurant that rests peacefully on the Troplong Mondot winery with a lawn and garden that overlook a colorful, rustic French valley.

closing sale Africa Mama 75-90% OFF 129Store Broadway E, 98102 (206) 856-2310 Ethnic Art & Gift Gallery

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Central WA region is hard to beat for artisan beer, wine, and spirits The Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau has launched the Spirits and Hops Trail website (www.SpiritsandHopsTrail.com) to help visitors easily navigate the growing number of local craft breweries, cideries, and distilleries throughout the region.

In the past five years, the region has welcomed three breweries, three distilleries, and the largest producer of hard artisan cider in the state. The new site provides information and online mapping capabilities for these new businesses and many more tasting destinations throughout the Yakima Valley, including restaurants that feature locally crafted adult beverages.

TOPS IN HOPS The Yakima Valley is the top agricultural region in Washington state. In addition to growing 40 varieties of crops, the Valley produces 78 percent of the nation’s hops.

For decades, commercial and craft breweries across the country and globe have relied on the quality hops grown in the Valley for their products.

Tourism leaders believe this project will complement the thriving wine industry of the Yakima Valley. “Our agricultural heritage is a foundation of our visitor industry,” stated John Cooper, president and CEO of the Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau. “It’s only natural that we should celebrate our role in the beer and distillery

industries.” Cooper stated the bureau will market the site through a number of media channels, publicity, and outreach to various groups.

The website also contains a history of the hops industry, a blog with guest authors, and a calendar of events of interest to beer, cider, and spirits enthusiasts.

ABOUT THE VALLEY Located in south-central Washington, the Yakima Valley is the oldest, largest, and most diverse wine-growing region in Washington, producing nearly half of the state’s wine grapes. With more than 120 wineries in addition to acres of rolling vineyards, orchards, and hop fields, the Valley is consid-

ered the epicenter of Washington’s wine and agricultural regions. This regional abundance invites visitors to indulge in farm-fresh meals paired with local wines, along with one-of-a-kind delicacies – like Chukar Cherries (locally grown, dried cherries) or Blue Barn Farm’s handmade goat cheese – fresh from the source. Located just two to three hours from Seattle, Spokane, or Portland, the sun-soaked Valley is also rich in cultural heritage and outdoor recreation, including fly-fishing, river-rafting, hiking, and biking. For more information, visit www.visityakimavalley. org. – Submitted by Yakima Valley Visitors & Convention Bureau

Hattrup Farms

Weddings By the Sea

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www.oceanshoresweddings.com 206-403-8170 Let us make your wedding day as fun as a day at the beach.

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Celebrating 40 Years!

dining experience, check out The Public Kitchen and Bar (www.thepublickitchen. com). A graduate of SCAD and partner of one the Public’s owners designed the interior with elegant mid-century decor and tastefully exposed brick walls as accents.

A rooftop deck is open Monday–Friday and provides a great vantage point to peoplewatch while enjoying Public’s delectable locally sourced dishes.

Savannah

continued from page 3 Chef Darin’s Low Country Cuisine classes, you’ll enjoy a true Southern hands-on experience creating, and ultimately savor-

ing such Savannah-originating dishes as Chicken Country Captain, a delectable treat that incorporates Indian inspired spices.

If your time is more limited, there are a couple of fabulous alternatives just a stroll away. World-famous Clary’s Cafe (www. claryscafe.com) serves up as much tasty

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Southern fare as it does character and history. The popular Oglethorpe breakfast special is a grits fix only achieved in Savannah.

Piled-high portions will leave your appetite satisfied as you leave to explore the nearby Spanish-moss-lined streets of Jones and Abercorn. For a chic and modern yet casual

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Jerry L. Peerson

Bohemian Hotel lobby

DRINK When all that walking and exploring wearies your soles, a great place to stop and kick back is the Lesbian-owned and operated Marlin Monroe’s (www.marlinmonroessurfsidegrill.com). Monroe’s cooks up generous portions of seafood and offers a long list of refreshing drinks to cool you down after a day at the beach. Because the joint has two beachside open-air decks facing the ocean, you don’t have to walk far for your thirst to be quenched and your hunger to be sated. Coco’s Sunset Grille (www.cocostybee.com) is another nearby hip spot for food and drink with sand on your feet. They also throw the occasional Gay party.

Nighttime revelry in Savannah can be among the most liberating and refreshing experiences of any major American city.

Evenings are warm and breezy, and the streets and squares are lined with lights and filled with outdoor socializing, thanks to one of the country’s few open-container laws. Many bars provide plastic to-go cups for meandering with your drink between establishments, or just in case you’re not finished by closing time. Savannah Pride (www.savpride.com), which took place September 14 this year, is another occasion for outdoor revelry, but St. Patrick’s Day is when the city really comes alive to celebrate!