Seattle Gay News
Issue 38, Volume 46, September 21, 2018
Fall Arts & Travel
SPAIN · GSBA · CRABFEST · WALLA WALLA · SEATTLE ART MUSEUM · CANNON BEACH · HOTEL MOXY
Detail of an alterpiece in Burgos Cathedral.
Pinchos and paleo art on the Spanish Coast by Scott Wittet Special to the SGN We knew we were in for a treat when the lights went off. We had been through the drill several times already – at a certain point in every cave tour the guide would throw a switch, plunging us into perfect darkness – no moon, no stars, no distant city lights. With another click a set of floodlights would blaze on, startling us with a view we hadn’t noticed before, a wall swarming with beasts that no longer walk the earth – woolly mammoths, extinct horses, aurochs (a kind of prehistoric bull), cave bears and cave lions. The paintings and etchings were spectacular – not only beautiful, but also awe-inspiring because they were created tens of thousands of years ago. They are the work of men and women who
were, physically and mentally, just like us and who had thoughts and feelings we would understand. To feel moved by a piece of art made so long ago, and to experience it in the wondrous and strange environment of an ancient cavern deep beneath a mountain, was, for me, a childhood dream come true. We had headed to the northern Spanish regions of Cantabria and Asturias to see ancient art, but we were thrilled to discover so much more! The coast from Bilbao to Gijón is not a top destination for foreign tourists, but it is a favorite landing spot for Spaniards, especially in summer – they love the beaches, fresh seafood and cooler temperatures. So after visiting Madrid, Andalusia, Barcelona
and other Iberian top spots, consider heading north. It’s where you’ll find great food – including innovative pinchos (tapas) – charming towns, the gorgeous Bilbao Guggenheim, Altamira and other ice age decorated caves (if you’re interested in that sort of thing) and good value for your strong dollar. In June the weather was pleasant (70s to low 80s during the day) and the European tourist season wasn’t in full swing yet, so we didn’t have to fight crowds. We seldom book a guide during our travels, but for this trip we made an exception. Charles Schwalbe, owner of Northern Exposure Spain, was born in the area and first visited the painted caves as a young boy
with his dad. Charles’ fascination with ice age art grew over the years, and he developed a profound expertise. After a career in finance in Texas, Charles gave up corporate life to return home and follow his bliss. Now he’s shepherding small groups not only to his beloved caves; he also leads hikes in the Picos de Europa mountains, and tours focusing on wine, art and architecture, festivals or wildlife. A few of the six caves we visited were hard to find, so having Charles at the wheel was time and aggravation-saving, but what we loved most was his cultural guidance, including advice on where to stay, and where to find the best food.
see SPAIN page 4