Seattle Gay News
Issue 38, Volume 44, September 16, 2016
Visiting Provincetown, Massachusetts by Ed Walsh SGN Contributing Writer Everybody knows that Provincetown is a hot destination for the summer, but the fall is also a great time to visit the small and very gay town on the tip of Cape Cod, Massachusetts. If you can get there this time of year, you will enjoy P-town without the summer crowds and with cheaper hotel rates. October is the town’s fall foliage month and it welcomes the season with Women’s Week, Oct 8-14 (http:// www.womensweekprovincetown.com/), the transgender-centric Fantasia Fair Oct 14-21 (http://www.fantasiafair.org/), the LGBT in recovery Provincetown Round Up weekend Oct. 17-21 (http://www.provincetownroundup.org/), and the Spooky Bear Weekend, Oct. 27-28 (http://www. ne-ursamen.org/spookybear/). Provincetown is gearing up for its biggest fall celebration four years from now. The Pilgrims first arrived in P-town on November 11, 1620 and tourism boosters hope to capitalize on the coming 400-year anniversary to remind the world that the Pilgrims’ first stop was Provincetown, not Plymouth Rock. Those early pioneers wound up eventually settling in Plymouth, about 20 miles across Massachusetts Bay, primarily because of better farming conditions. But before they left Provincetown, they signed the Mayflower Compact, the cornerstone of the freedom and democracy that we enjoy today. As part of the campaign to raise awareness of the historical import of Provincetown, the city has adopted the slogan “America’s first destination.” For many LGBTs, P-town has long been a first and favorite gay getaway. The town welcomed gay tourists long before it became fashionable for destinations to market to LGBTs. Whaling first put Provincetown on the map in the 1800s as the early Portuguese immigrants capitalized on the big market for whale oil. Artists also flocked to P-town for the solitude, lighting, and affordable bohemian lifestyle. And where there is an established artistic communi-
ty, a gay welcoming environment is often second nature. Not surprisingly, gay couples have gravitated to P-town as a place to put down roots. Based on the 2010 census data that counts same-sex couples, Provincetown is the gayest town in America. About a third of its year-round population of 3,000 is made up of same-sex couples. While few people call P-town home, many more call it their second home, as they return regularly for summer vacation. Provincetown’s population swells to about 60,000 in the summer. Locals say September is one of the best times to visit because it’s still warm but the crowds are smaller and, consequently, hotel rates are lower. Some offer discounts that start right after Labor Day. But if you don’t mind the cooler weather, October is a good month to enjoy the fall foliage and the aforementioned LGBT fall events. If you enjoy being part of the crowd, P-town is the place to be in the summer. While the Internet has dramatically changed the gay nightlife scene in other parts of the country, it has not impacted Ptown much. People on vacation would rather go out than stare at their smartphones. For the uninitiated, P-town’s main drag is Commercial Street. The town is a mile wide and three miles long, with Town Hall in the center. All the town’s gay nightlife and most of the gay inns are clustered along Commercial Street or a block or so away from it. A car is more trouble than it is worth in P-town. Most of the small inns don’t have parking, but if you stay close to downtown, you can walk to everything. Bicycling is very big in P-town, so if you want to venture off, pedal power is a good way to go. Daytime attractions Provincetown’s greatest asset is that it has it all. From a more urban experience of art galleries, restaurants, live theater, nightlife and culture to some of the most pristine untouched natural beauty you will find anywhere. Summer is the season for whale watching and a number of companies offer tours, which generally last
three to four hours. Several companies offer open-air trolley bus tours. The tours are generally less than $20 and provide a good lay of the land for first-timers and interesting history that even some locals would find informative. When it comes to beaches, you have plenty from which to choose. If you want to stay downtown, the Town Beach is easy. It is sheltered from the ocean, so there aren’t many waves, making it easier on kids and inexperienced swimmers. On the ocean side, Herring Cove Beach is the city’s most popular. It is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore (https://www.nps.gov/ caco/index.htm) and is managed by the federal government. It has a paid parking lot but the best way to get there is by bicycle. The area where the parking lot is situated is oriented more to families with a men’s and women’s changing area, showers, and a refreshment concession. The southern end of Herring Cove Beach is the unofficial gay clothing-optional beach. The best way to get there is by bicycle. Go to the western end of Commercial Street and turn right on Highway 6A. Keep heading in that direction away from downtown past Bradford Street and you will see a wooden fence on the left. Chain your bike to that fence with the other bikes and follow the crowd for about a 20-minute walk to the beach. The Pilgrim Monument (http://www. pilgrim-monument.org/) is the symbol of Provincetown and is also a good way to get your bearings. If you want to know which direction is downtown, just look up for the monument. The tower is the tallest granite structure in the U.S., standing 252 feet, or nearly 24 stories, on a hill above downtown. If you are in reasonably good shape, you can walk to the top in about 10 minutes. It opened in 1910. Construction took three years. The tower offers sweeping views of the town, and on a clear day, you can see Boston, about 50 miles away. Be sure and take in the museum at the foot of the tower that chronicles the history of P-town. Using a bicycle will also allow you to have access to some beautiful bike trails through the Cape Cod National Seashore parkland. P-town Bikes (http://www.Psee PROVINCETOWN page 6
Background image: Provincetown skyline – Photo courtesy of Ed Walsh