Scratch Magazine September 2021 by scratchmagazine

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Eighteen years of... ®

Issue 221 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Emma Hobday emma.hobday@scratchmagazine.co.uk Editorial assistant Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder/contributor Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Lilly Delmage, NHBF, Liza Smith, Sue Davies, Chan Vermont, Dave Heffernan, Ria-Jaine Lincoln, Simone Radley, Maci Blanche

ges in our lives; experience chan last 18 e’ve all had to bad – and the small, good or amount h ot m whether big or am m a nitely presented fi de ve lly. ha na s sio th mon and profes l of us personally ic em nd pa e of change for al th e that we can all agre ses, as it cu fo However, I think d an s al evaluate our go e chance to re has offered us th der, Alex Fox. -fo fabulous co un has for Scratch’s hir e, lau nc he d er , Sc ot t De rb ys nt . Ale x an d pu bli sh o, ag s m br idg e an d Ke ar Ca ye in n Eig ht ee sp ec tiv e ho m es r; re ta eir th Qa m m fro fro d ine e wo rke Sc ra tc h m ag az dd le Ea st an d sh ok he r to th e Mi ing th e Na ily m pia lop ve de ile Ale x’s life th en to wh ine an d its te am az ag in six loc at ion s. m e ed th his g nu rtu rin s no w be en fra nc ha ich wh he r ro le as d, an ste p aw ay fro m Co m pe titi on s br e th e de cis ion to ad m Sc ra tc h’s x d Ale an , lf ar rse Ea rlie r th is ye to fo cu s on he ine az ag m h tc an d Sc ra at we ’ll sti ll se e ed ito r-in -c hie f at ar e de lig ht ed th We . pia m ld. ily e na il fie sis te r br an d, Na rso na lity wi th in th pa ssi on an d pe ex pe rie nc e he r nail successes of UK career – and the x’s Ale 25 te on ra on leb to ce Stars Party in Lond I was honoured ustry – at the Scratch s ind r se es ou sin of e bu d nc professionals an not just the resilie te ra leb s, ce list to na y fi rfect wa tch Stars Awards July. It was the pe ments of our Scra ve oy-t hie da ac ir e ibl the red s and in pros, but the inc mpetition proces e if changes in the co s at the event; se ce fa try us who adapted to ind y an m so e se to nderful page 52. day life. It was wo roundup pics on e any in our party nis og rec n ca u yo be more ade changes to lons that have m sa to that can at es ch ov we m , all Also this issue g to uncover sm tin ina sc fa en brid’ nail it’s be o detail new ‘hy sustainable, and onment. We als vir en the nail the al on ve ct re on changes, we make a big impa and, as the seas es m m ra og pr education note. that you need to shades and styles u make t any changes yo ge; just ensure tha an and will ch , r fo ed on on as as re re ll There is always considered, we e ar life l na sio or profes in your personal your happiness. t or pp su to serve ndon next month! ympia Beauty, Lo Ol at u yo e se I hope to Until then,

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Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

Images courtesy of Bella Boo Beauty Shades shown are from the Kinetics Affection collection, available in Shield Gel Polish & SolarGel Nail Polish. Available via www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk & www.kineticsnails.co.uk

COVER CREDITS

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.olympiabeauty.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2021 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

Image courtesy of Ryan Lanji, www.ryanlanji.com /Ryanlanjiofficial @ryanlanji @ryanlanji

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Contents SEPTEMBER 2021

FEATURES 22 Unveil The Nail

Check out the colourful career of cover star, Ryan Lanji & his nail industry affiliation

28 Nature Calling

Embrace eco-conscious product launches with a look at Nature Strong – OPI’s 75% natural origin lacquer line

36 The AW21 Trend Report

Get to grips with the nail art & colour trends clients will be lusting for this autumn/winter

44 Hit Refresh

Scratch test-runs the revamped nail education programme from Georgie Smedley Group

48 Instant Attraction

Find out about the forces behind Magnetic Nail Design & take a look at its extensive product range

52 Stars Shine Bright

Fawn over the snaps & tales from the ultimate nail industry reunion; the Scratch Stars Party

76 Next Level Learning

Esteemed educator, Anna Lee, shares her industry journey & news about her courses

90 Beauty With A Conscience

The spotlight’s on four nail & beauty salons with a focus on sustainable, eco-friendly practices

96 5 Minutes With…

Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year, Nikol Nikolova, shares her hobbies, career loves & more…

98 Stop The Strain

Techs & experts reveal top tips to alleviate hand & wrist aches caused by nail tekking

106 Fantastic Fox

Scratch bids farewell to editor-in-chief, Alex Fox, as she puts down her pen to focus on other projects

REGULARS

10 18 30 32 42 46 50 58 60 62 64 72 74 80 82 84 86 88 94 100 104

Nail Nation The Hot List Nailscopes The Force Of The Feds International Nail Spy Getting Down To Business Pro DIY Product Spotlight Readers Gallery Mindful Matters Brand Watch The Business Of Beauty Scratch Stats The Clawgasmic Effect Through The Keyhole Nail Inspo Beauty In Numbers Business Matters Expert Advice Fingernails in Focus Nail Clippings

We make the chemistry, you make it

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Nail NATION

business

news & views By Team Scratch

GLOBAL NAILCARE MARKET SET TO EXPAND BY 8.4% BY 2027 According to a report by Transparency Market Research, the global nailcare market is expected to reach a value of almost $21 million by 2027, expanding at an average growth rate of 8.4% from 2019 to 2027. Asia is anticipated to maintain its dominance of the global nailcare market during this forecast period (the continent accounted for 34% of the global nailcare market in 2018), however it is being closely followed by South America and Europe. The report reveals five key reasons for market growth: 1. The growing awareness of nail hygiene due to the pandemic. 2. Social media platforms such as Instagram enhancing the emphasis on beauty, fashion and lifestyle images. 3. The demand in Asia for innovative and new technology nailcare products such as special effects, soak off gels, new finishes and magnetic nail polish. 4. The changing male preferences towards nailcare and move to focused nail and grooming product ranges for men. 5. The popularity of gel polish has increased amongst professionals and consumers owing to its ease of application and long-lasting properties. www.transparencymarketresearch.com

Irish confederation calls for VAT to be reduced in beauty sector The Hair & Beauty Industry Confederation Ireland (HABIC) has launched the WAX the VAT campaign, to lobby the Irish government to reduce VAT in the Irish beauty sector from 13.5% to 9%. Following the increase in the VAT rate for hairdressing services from 9% to 13.5% in 2019 (a VAT increase of 4.5%), a rise in the national minimum wage and the removal of training rates, the average price of hairdressing services increased by 3% that year. The report states that the VAT rate for hair and beauty should be cut to 5% until the end of 2021, and then revert on a permanent basis to the 9% rate that prevailed previously. The report was prepared using a few different approaches, including interviews with many stakeholders in the sector; desk-based research, reference to research in the UK on the beauty industry and official statistical agencies. www.habic.ie 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Federation of Nail Professionals opens industry membership The Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP), which serves to be a voice for the UK nail industry, has opened membership options with a variety of benefits. Membership is open to nailists at every stage of their career, in the following categories: • Students/apprentices • Nail professionals • Brand educators • Educators (Licence To Teach) • Employers The FNP is a not-for-profit organisation founded in 2020 by a collective of nail industry experts including chair, Marian Newman BEM. A spokesperson for the organisation comments: “Membership will provide you with a likeminded community of individuals, who not only strive for excellence, but support others and share knowledge, assisting everyone in advancing their career and allowing access to a wide range of benefits.” Advantages of membership include access to information and resources, a member dashboard that is promoted to consumers, templates for business documents and discounts for FNP events and seminars. Fees can be paid on a quarterly or annual basis. For more information, visit www.the-fnp.com

Scratch Stars winning salon expands services into Harrods The world’s most famous store has revamped its hair and beauty salon, with Scratch Stars Nail Salon of the Year 20/21 – Townhouse – serving up the nail services. Clients can opt for a minimalist mani-pedi, intricate nail art, a men’s manicure or the Harrods Exclusive manicure. Hair and beauty treatments have long been a part of the iconic store’s DNA, with Harrods’ first ‘Hairdressing and Manicure Department’ opening in 1894. The space has been redesigned by London based Sparcstudio Design, and pays homage to the salon’s 1982 design, featuring glossy peach marble, cream stone counters and powder pink walls with gold finishes. Annalise Fard, director of beauty at Harrods, says: “Harrods has invested in pushing the boundaries of what is expected from a beauty destination, as well as bringing the most innovative experiences and services from around the world to London. I am absolutely delighted to be creating this exciting new beauty offering for our Harrods community.” www.harrods.com

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KEEP ‘EM GUESSING

TOTALLY TRAILBLAZING

business

Nail NATION Nail artist unveils online education platform Swedish nail artist, Celina Rydén, has launched online nail education platform, My Nail Academy (MNA), offering a wealth of courses for nailists keen to improve skills. MNA offers technical courses on shaping, structure, extensions using forms, baby boomers and the French reverse technique – as well as Celina’s most popular nail art courses such as Galaxy, Stone Techniques and Colour Ombré. Celina comments: “Teaching is so close to my heart and something that I’ve been doing for over 20 years. Even before the pandemic I decided that I wanted to be able to reach out to all of those who couldn’t travel to Stockholm or to the places that I visited.” Celina, who also works as an influencer and ambassador for Light Elegance Nail Products, had the idea for the platform long before the pandemic struck – affecting nail education delivery across the globe. “I want to be one of those academies that sets that example and be one of the leaders that pushes the bar higher,” she continues. “I know that students learn in different ways so it was important for me to have text, visual and audio learning options. Each course features high-quality close-up videos to look at, while my voice narrates. Three years in development, My Nail Academy has a userfriendly website that lists all the courses on offer, with more to be added in the future from other nail artists. Budding nailists can simply select the course and pay to enrol, after reading the breakdown of modules and what’s involved. www.mynailacademy.com Check out Scratch’s video interview with Celina about MNA, here

POSTPONED: NAILYMPIA LONDON 2021 The annual Nailympia London event for 2021 is postponed for a second year running due to the ongoing global pandemic. The competition invites nail technicians from all over the world to compete across three divisions in categories such as L&P Tip & Overlay, Salon Nails and Stiletto Nails in a bid to win medals, trophies and global acclaim. “Due to its international flavour, Nailympia is known for its diverse competitors that reach far and wide from a wealth of different countries and nail cultures,” comments Alex Fox, global director of Nailympia Competitions. “Yet, with the frequent changes in travel restrictions being implemented, it was clear that committing to this year’s event would be tricky for most competitors. “Therefore, it is with sadness that the team has decided to postpone the event for 2021, but it will come back with a euphoric spirit for 2022.” The second edition of Nailympia Online is being hosted to replace Nailympia London this autumn. Registration is open via www.nailympia.com 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NHBF SCOOPS GOLD AWARD FOR BEST MEMBERSHIP ORGANISATION IN THE UK The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has scooped three accolades at the National Association Awards, which recognises the hard work and success of UK associations, federations, chambers, societies and membership organisations across 12 categories. The NHBF, a membership organisation for the hair and beauty sectors, was recognised as a Gold winner for Best Membership Organisation (1,000 – 10,000) and for Best Social Media. It achieved a silver award for Best Covid Response. “To win awards in three different categories at the National Association Awards is something we’re very proud of – especially Best Membership Organisation,” comments Richard Lambert, chief executive, NHBF. “To be recognised for our commitment to helping the industry get back on its feet during such a time really means a lot to everyone involved and associated with the Federation. This recognition reinforces the importance of the work that we do to support the hair and beauty industry.” A spokesperson for the National Association Awards adds: “The judges were unanimous in their respect for how valuable the NHBF is to its members, the hard work undertaken to keep the whole hair & beauty industry informed and the real financial support it helped deliver during the past year.” www.nhbf.co.uk

MPs call for statutory regulation on non-surgical beauty treatments MPs have called for the statutory regulation of non-surgical beauty treatments involving injectables, fillers, invasive lasers, ‘deep’ peels and other invasive treatments. This call comes after the All-Party Parliamentary Group (APPG) on Beauty, Aesthetics & Wellbeing published a report into advanced aesthetic non-surgical cosmetic treatments. The report concluded that there is a lack of a legal framework of standards around these treatments, which has left consumers at risk and undermined the industry’s ability to develop. The APPG has made 17 recommendations to the government to help this issue, based on evidence given in public inquiry sessions and written submissions from stakeholders including trade associations, practitioners, regulatory agencies and consumers. “We strongly urge the government to implement the recommendations in our report and to take action to improve to improve the situation for the benefit of the industry and public safety. Maintaining the status quo is simply not an option,” comment co-chairs of the APPG, Carolyn Harris MP and Judith Cummins MP. www.baw-appg.com

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Nail NATION NAIL POLISH & CBD PRODUCTS AMONGST MOST SEARCHEDFOR PANDEMIC ITEMS Nail polish and deodorant were the most searched-for beauty items on the internet between April and June 2021, according to research by online retail platform, RangeMe. The company analysed data from more than 12,000 retail buyers and 200,000 suppliers on its platform, and found that buyers are seeking diversity in their purchases – placing a premium on products from suppliers with diverse business backgrounds. The report also showed that CBD products were popular searches for buyers with small to medium businesses. “It’s no surprise that something as impactful as the pandemic is affecting product purchasing,” says Nicky Jackson, CEO of RangeMe. “What is perhaps more exciting to see is the continued interest in and increased search for diverse and minority certified businesses. We seem to be at a real tipping point for supplier diversity to be a staple in our industry.” What’s more, health and beauty care buyers have been searching for certified LGBTQ brands and certified ethnic minority owned brands. www.rangeme.com

Instagram movement encourages hand model diversity in adverts Model, Maxey Greene, has launched Instagram account All Hands Are Good Hands, which is dedicated to showcasing hands of all shapes, sizes and features. She was inspired to create the account after posting a photo of her manicure. “In a tiny font in the corner of the image, I mentioned how I never see fingers that look like mine,” she revealed to The Huffington Post. “Shortly after posting it, a woman sent a photo reply of her chubby fingers with the caption ‘chubby hands for life!’ After that they just started pouring in.” So much so, that Maxey later posted an image to her Instagram, with the caption: “I love how today casually turned from me posting about my manicure into a full-on hands revolution. Turns out a lot of us are self-conscious about our chubby fingers! But no more! I love rings and have always loved looking at pictures of them and dreaming of them, but I never EVER see them on a hand that looks like mine. It’s time to show off all our hands because #allhandsaregoodhands.” @allhandsaregoodhands

Glitterbels adds 66 Unbelievabel gels to its product range Fresh to the Glitterbels nail product portfolio is Unbelievabel; a file-off, highly pigmented and no-wipe gel range. Ideal for creating strong, durable nail enhancements, the gels can also be used with a nail art brush to create detailed designs. The Glitterbels range was launched in 2018 with nail stylist, Annabel Maginnis, at the helm. The Unbelievabel range joins over 400 colour and glitter acrylics and 300 gel polishes, and there are 11 Unbelievabel Gel collections and 66 colours. The Unbelivabel Brush has launched alongside the range in order to perfect application. Two coats of each gel colour is recommended for full coverage, and each coat cures in the Glitterbels lamp for 60 seconds – without the need to apply top coat. Nails By Annabel and its Glitterbels range were recognised in July 2021 with the Scratch Shooting Star Award, owing to the company’s innovative products and forward-thinking business ethos. www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

DID YOU KNOW…?

PR firm, SEEN Group, has launched SEEN Again, a recycling initiative to help users dispose of used beauty packaging responsibly. When SEEN sends out beauty products to influencers and press to try it will include recycling bags to fill and return with any empties. www.seengroup.com

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Deputy chair of the FNP, Sue Davies, has launched the Inspiring Salon Professionals podcast. Sue will be joined each week by established salon professionals and industry leaders who will share stories, knowledge and guidance.

14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Following a successful online collaboration with Salon Services, Salon System Gellux gel polish has launched into over 173 Salon Services stores nationwide. www.salon-services.com

AcryGel has launched, offering nail pros the strength and durability of acrylic with the clarity and flexibility of UV gel to create long-lasting, clear enhancements. www.acrygel.co.uk

Technology takeover: Nail art printer market set to grow by 7.30% The nail art printer industry is expected to grow at a rate of 7.30% for the forecast period of 2020 to 2027, according to a report by Reports Web. The expanding use of nail art printers in retail, spas, nail and beauty salons and wedding studios is also expected to fuel the progress of this market in the coming years. The market is segmented by type into stamping printers and built-in computer printers, out of which the stamping printer segment holds significant market share due to the product being available at a reasonable and affordable price range. The market in Europe is predicted to grow the most over the forecast period. Furthermore, the UK and Italy are home to many market players that see consumers as ‘impulse buyers’ and the introduction of products with ease and value-added features, such as instant print, can be appreciated by consumers leading a demanding lifestyle. www.reportsweb.com

War Paint for Men, a make-up brand for men, has opened its doors on Carnaby Street, London, selling foundation, tinted moisturisers, bronzers, brow gels, and concealer. The brand was founded by Danny Gray, who achieved a £70,000 investment on the BBC show Dragons’ Den, with his aim to break the stigma of men wearing make-up and to offer men more choice when it comes to their personal care. “When I started to buy my own make-up, I found that the cosmetics shopping experience is very tailored towards women, and that it can be alienating for men,” Danny says. “Make-up has the massive potential to help with self-confidence, and I wanted to make that opportunity accessible to men who may be struggling with their appearance or self-esteem.” Technology within the store helps men find the best products for their needs and representatives from the Lions Barber Collective, a non-profit mental health organisation created by barbers, can provide hair trims on-site. Danny comments: “I am delighted to have opened War Paint For Men. It was so important that it wasn’t just about opening a shop to sell products, but to create somewhere for people to have an experience. “I wanted to create a relaxed, inviting place to help men feel comfortable to have a conversation and learn more about make-up, get a haircut or talk about mental health. Everything we’re trying to do as a brand is about normalising men using products and tools to help them feel more confident, and our store is here to do just that.” www.warpaintformen.com

Barry M supports charity mani challenge with nail polish launch Barry M has launched a limited edition nail polish to support the charity efforts of Esme Lucas, a nine-year-old girl who was diagnosed with leukaemia earlier this year. The nail shade, which Esme named herself, is called ‘Esme’s Deep Marine’ and is a holographic blue sparkly colour. The brand was inspired by Esme’s story as shortly after being diagnosed, Esme set up her own manicure challenge from her hospital bed at the Royal Marsden Hospital to raise money for cancer charity Young Lives vs Cancer. The challenge encourages others to paint the nails of male friends and family members and donate to the charity. From the sale of every bottle of ‘Esme’s Deep Marine’, 100% of the net revenue will go to Young Lives vs Cancer. Esme’s Deep Marine is available via www.barrym.com Watch our interview with Esme here

Research from Empathy.co, a global commerce search and discovery platform, has found that 35% of UK online shoppers will only associate with ‘responsible’ brands – such as those that treat staff fairly, source goods ethically, and do not misuse consumer data.

Instagram.com/gracegaustad

Image courtesy of www.fingernails2go.com

MEN’S MAKE-UP BRAND LAUNCHES DEBUT STORE IN CARNABY STREET

Nineteen-year-old singer, Grace Gaustad, has released ‘93 Days’, a song that tells the story of a young person seeking help by visiting a therapist, and supporting good mental health through make-up and beauty treatments.

Revealed: the most watched beauty hacks on TikTok Research by cosmetic surgery experts, Tajmeeli, has revealed which beauty videos are the most popular with users on TikTok. With over 12.5 billion views on TikTok, #BeautyHacks dominate the platform with users all over the world tuning in. The key findings are: •#NailHacks has had over 340 million views on TikTok. •#EyelinerHacks is a close second with over 318 million views. •#FoundationHacks, #ConcealerHacks and #LipstickHacks make up the remainder of the top five most popular beauty hacks. “The popularity of TikTok has skyrocketed in recent months and the platform offers far more than funny videos and viral dances,” comments Germine Magdy, senior social media specialist at Tajmeeli. As we can see from the research, it’s the perfect place to share tips and advice. “The huge reach of the platform can often see some of these beauty tips going viral however, we recommend that viewers use their own judgement before trying any of the recommendations at home.” www.tajmeeli.com

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NEWPRODUCTS

Artistic Gel On Xtensions Starter Kit £99.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Offer speedy enhancements that last for up to 21 days with these full coverage Soft Gel Nail Tips. Light and created to be break-resistant from arch to free edge, they move with the nail and are available in a variety of shapes. The Starter Kit includes Xtensions Tip Primer and Adhesive as well as box of tips, Artistic Colour Gloss and Glossing Gel to finish, with LED light.

Gelish No Boundaries Collection £84.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com Six seasonally themed crème gel polish shades make up Gelish’s No Boundaries collection for autumn. Rich and sultry, the decadent hues include Uncharted Territory, a garnet crème, Keep ‘Em Guessing, a taupe crème, and Totally Trailblazing, a hot chocolate crème.

List THE HOT

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services

NAF! X Navy Cuticle Oils from £5.50 + VAT www.nafstuff.com www.navyprofessional.com NAF! Stuff has lent its cuticle oil formula to a collaboration with Navy Professional, which has infused its signature scent into a 30ml Desk Oil and 3.7ml Cuticle Oil Pen. What’s more, 10% of profits of sales from the collaboration will be donated to charity. The Desk Oil for techs is £12 + VAT, while the Cuticle Oil Pens can be retailed; £5.50 + VAT/RRP £8 each.

OPI Nature Strong Lacquer £POA/RRP £13.90 www.opiuk.com Long-lasting and highly pigmented, the Nature Strong nail lacquer range from OPI features plant-based ingredients derived from sugar cane, manioc, wheat, potatoes and corn. Certified by The Vegan Society, the 30 new shades and top coat offer a high-shine finish that lasts up to seven days, and the bottle and cap are made from 20% post-consumer recyclables.

18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The Gel Bottle Inc Sheer Simplicity Collection £145 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com These 10 sheer gel polish hues are ideal additions to your core collection. Ideal for French manis, as a nail art base or for a barely-there look, choose from the delicate Oyster or timeless Cashmere. Apply one coat for a subtle effect or two for a more opaque finish. Available individually for £14.50 + VAT.

Magnetic Nail Design PowerGel from £31.70 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk Overlay natural nails or create shapely enhancements with PowerGel, a hybrid product with features of gel and acrylic systems combined. Easy to use, PowerGel is available in a variety of natural-looking shades including new Frosted Pink, in a 30g pot (£31.70 + VAT) and 50ml tube (£42.70 + VAT).

NEWPRODUCTS Light Elegance Venture Into Beauty P+ Gel Polish Collection £13.95 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com Inspired by the power of travel and the beauty it reveals, Light Elegance’s 12 autumnal shades include warm neutrals, browns, yellows and taupes alongside deep pink and blue glitters. Also available in Colour Gel and Glitter Gel formulas (£18.95 + VAT each).

:YOURS Yolographic Elements £2.95 + VAT each www.sweetsquared.com Elevate nail art designs with these six holographic glitters. Apply to the inhibition layer of gel polish or mix with gel, acrylic powder or lacquer to create bespoke looks. These pigments utilise paper packaging and are vegan friendly. The full collection is available for £53.10 + VAT.

RefectoCil Eye Care Pads (10pk) £19.95 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide. Offer clients a treat while they indulge in a mani/pedi or beauty service with these cooling gel pads. They adhere gently and securely to the skin and function as an intensive mask to moisturise and reduce puffiness. Use during a lash tint service to prevent skin staining from tinting or to secure lower lashes when lifting.

The Nail Lab Tool Range from £17.50 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk Designed for precision and stylish in appearance, The Nail Lab’s tool range includes 3.5mm blade cuticle nippers, as well as pushers, curettes, clippers and more. Each tool boasts a slimline, ergonomic design and is available in a satin silver or glossy black finish.

Nailchemy Origin Hard Gel from £16.50 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk Add strength, length and sculpt with the Origin Hard Gel range; featuring 10 products to support enhancement needs. HEMA-free and hardwearing, the range includes Clear Builder Gel, Clear Sculpting Gel, Cover Rose, Cover Pink and Cover Peach. Packaged in metallic jars, the Origin Hard Gel is £16.50 + VAT (15ml) or £29.99 + VAT (30ml).

Kinetics Shield Ceramic Colour Bases £14 + VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk Enhance nails by up to 2mm with this brush-on gel polish formula, available in eight natural-looking shades. Its firm structure eliminates the formation of cracks to create a look of the perfect natural nail.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

Find us on stand G33!

nail

COVERSTORY

Unveil the

September marks the 10th anniversary of Nailphilia, the first nail art exhibition hosted in London by Ryan Lanji. Here, the curator turned TV & cover star shares his fashion & art tales – & why he has a big place in his heart for the nail sector… ALEX FOX REPORTS

ife can take us in interesting directions, and as such, expose us to new adventures and projects. For Canadian, Ryan Lanji, this is most certainly the case.

Having left college, where he’d been studying film production, an uninspired Ryan found himself intrigued by a regular customer at his local café who seemed ‘edgy, cool and ordered the same bowl of soup on every visit’. Curiosity led to conversation, where Ryan encountered his first curator of fashion and art exhibitions. Keen to know more, he pressed the stranger for details and was invited to assist on an exhibition showcasing the career of fashion journalist, Virginia Leeming, at the Lumen Gallery in Vancouver.

The next phase of the project was to find nail artists to feature their work and present the evolution of the professional nail industry. It started with the nail artist he’d been inspired by on Instagram; Sophie Harris-Greenslade (@theillustratednail), and then moved into deeper internet searches. One thing led to another, and on meeting up with renowned fashion stylist, Anna Trevelyan, Ryan quizzed her for A-list nail techs. She presented her top three and urged Ryan to pursue them. The list read; Jenny Longworth (nail ambassador for Revlon in 2011), Sophy Robson and Marian Newman. He wasted no time getting in touch.

On arrival in the Big Smoke, Ryan took a post in a gallery. His first project was to fill the space with an installation and he was given just six months to fulfil the brief from concept to showtime – so the clock was ticking. His focus was to get the local scene talking about the gallery and, not one to shy away from a challenge, Ryan set to work with the idea to unearth fashion-related subject matter.

From here, Marian directed Ryan not only to a series of artists and body of work that could be exhibited, but also to Scratch magazine, where a wider world of nails was waiting – which he cites ‘as finding the cupboard, which opened the door to the beauty industry that no one’s talking about’. Unlocking national industry treasures such as Sam Biddle, Mike Pocock, Megumi Mizuno and Sue Marsh, the exhibition began growing in many directions and the wealth of nail-related artefacts being unearthed was quite unexpected and most appreciated. As Ryan remembers, “Within days of emailing her, Sue Marsh was in London at my door with boxes of archived nails from Tristan Weber and McQueen. There were also dolphin, corkscrew and fairy-themed nails, which all showcased what could be achieved using moulds and acrylic. She even had sketches and mock-ups from her nails for the Spice Girls. All of these were on display for the first time at Nailphilia.”

The complete concept was soon to come. After browsing through a new app, Instagram, Ryan was taken by various nail art posts; then more specifically a nail artist designing nails with small art pens on a tiny nail canvas. He was then hit by the notion that nail art was a popular form of contemporary art – and the exhibition – Nailphilia – was spawned.

Taking the nail industry in every direction possible, the Nailphilia exhibition exhumed an almost cosmic body of work from the predominant nail artists of the era from all around the world. On UK soil, Sophy Robson was pushing the envelope with her ‘eccentric, edgy and tenacious approach’, as Ryan describes, and champions her further, noting her to be a ‘rockstar’ who

Ryan was just 22 and the year was 2010. His creative spirit was instantly ignited and he recreated a fashion studio to display Virginia’s 25-year archive of fashion reportage photos in a mood board format throughout the interior. Enchanted by the space created by Ryan, the curator urged Ryan to continue on this path. “I thought, if I’m going to do this, I’m going to do this in a big city,” chuckles Ryan. “And so, I boarded a plane to London.”

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY

Nailphilia ran for one month and generated over 60,000 website hits during September 2011 in the gallery space at Vyner Street, London. ‘enchanted’ him with her blend of personality and nail work. He recalls her painting on taxidermy, working her flavour in the fashion pop world with Swarovski crystals and creating pieces like ‘Trigger Fingers’, a moulded hand that had chains and bedazzled embellishments hanging from the nails. “Sophy helped build up the cool factor of Nailphilia,” Ryan reflects. Nailphilia was home to Beyoncé’s iconic gold nails, which were paired alongside hands cast from wax, looking lifelike with fingerprints and lines across the palm. They were then placed so they seemed to pop through plinths and burst out from the walls. These pieces were where the nails donated for the show were adhered for display purposes, which in turn left the scene unforgettable and clever in its staging. Minx exploded on the scene at this time, and Ryan was able to harness and capture this new wave of digital printed decals and designs. He invited techs to adhere them to the fingertips of mannequin hands that were then hung from the ceiling at differing lengths to mimic a chandelier, which Ryan observes was an ‘homage to Minx and the Fashion Week shows the brand had recently worked on’ with its new industry innovation.

“The Nailphilia experience; accessible art; at times fine art and at others, cutting edge, yet always bespoke.” Ryan Lanji

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 23

COVERSTORY Understated creatives Without doubt, the Nailphilia exhibition reflected the art and creatives inside this powerful yet understated industry, where, as Ryan had hoped, it looked like nails were taking over the space. “Nailphilia was about making an even platform, an equal spotlight for the artists,” he reveals. “That’s the linchpin of my morals and values when it comes to how I create and collaborate. “Nailphilia focused on championing the talent of the artists, not creating a hierarchy, which brings me to the subject of the nail industry as a whole,” Ryan continues. “Nails has always been at the bottom rung of the ladder when it comes to beauty. There’s hair, then make-up and all the other things you can do to your body and then nails are often thought of last, yet they’re the most talked about thing on a catwalk. It’s also interesting to note here, that nails are one of the only ways you can remove classism from fashion. If you have the talent, patience and a cool set of colours, you can create looks that are the same as seen at Paris Fashion Week or on Beyoncé and Lady Gaga and it has nothing to do with education or wealth. It just has to do with pure, unbridled talent.” To punctuate this thought further, Ryan affirmed that nail design, art and grooming are accessible to everyone – and that was the message at the heart of the Nailphilia experience. Accessible art; at times fine art and at others, cutting edge, yet always bespoke. Jenny Longworth’s contribution, Ryan recalls, was not just a fabulous set of Jessie J nails and a nail embellished jacket that he cites as ‘supercool’, but this meeting of like-minded creatives led to his very next exhibition commission. As its ambassador, Jenny had kept Revlon well-tuned into the essence of Nailphilia, which led to the polish giant inviting him to curate Enamoured: 80 years of Revlon – a retrospective the following year at the London Film Museum. This, Ryan sees, was the birth of the pop-up event. Museum

RYAN LANJI’S EXHIBITIONS

Enamoured: 80 years of Revlon

The Animal Ball

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

• Conservation Couture – The Animal Ball, Victoria & Albert Museum 2017 • The Beauty of Being British Asian – Brick Lane 2017 • Just The Tips – Kreativ House Gallery 2017 • Letters to Lost Lovers – Kreativ House Gallery 2017 • Cultural Debris – Jealous Gallery 2016 • Brick Lane by Phil Maxwell – Rich Mix London 2014 • Dalston Screen-tests – Dalston Superstore 2013 • Fred Butler’s A Tribe Called Guess – 2013 • Alex Noble’s Creatures From The Kaleidoscope – 2013 • Colour and Culture: 40 Years of Cosmetics á la Carte – 2013 • Half•Tone by Jez Tozer 2013 • Naked Exhibition by Mari Sarai – 2011 • ENAMOURED: 80 Years of Revlon – The London Film Museum 2012 • Nailphilia – Vyner Street 2011

“Ryan affirmed that nail design, art and grooming are accessible to everyone.”

COVERSTORY

“I’m a man who messes with mediums. I’m definitely interested in bringing Nailphilia back to life in ways never seen before.” Ryan today… Most recently, Ryan has been seen on screen as a contestant for The Big Flower Fight, co-presented by Vic Reeves and now airing on Netflix. A really exciting new string to his bow, after weeks of building massive structures from flora and fauna with his teammate, Andrew, the pair went on to win the show with a Hansel & Gretel house, which was colourful on the inside to depict how two children were enticed inside a scary house in the woods. This outside-of-the-box artisanal thinking clinched the first place spot. Harmonising the three separate careers he’s carved out during the past 10 years (fashion and art curator, DJ/cultural producer and reality TV star), Ryan’s latest career move sees him manifest into TV presenter. Moving over to BBC3, Ryan will present the first series of Proud Party Agency, which is filming now for release in 2022. From what Scratch can gather, this unscripted reality show follows the lives of three party planners, who will create celebrations for those that had to stall their gatherings during the Covid-19 crisis. So what does the future hold for Ryan… and is there a Nailphilia V2 anywhere on the horizon? “I’m a man who messes with mediums,” he laughs. “I’m definitely interested in bringing Nailphilia back to life in ways never seen before and in a way where the whole world will be able to watch, explore and experience it. So, stay tuned, as it’s really exciting and I’m going to use everything I have in my wheelhouse to make this happen.”

www.ryanlanji.com /ryanlanjiofficial

HUNGAMA

Ryan Lanji started Hungama in 2016 after learning how to DJ. Hungama, which stands for chaos and celebration, merges Bollywood with fashion and art, while fusing club culture into activism, resulting in Ryan as the cultural vanguard and voice in the POC and LGBTQ+ community. Learn more at www.ryanlanji.com

@ryanlanji

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

50 SHADES? THINK BIGGER. NEW SHADES OF UNBELIEVABEL GEL TO ADD TO YOUR COLLECTION.

SMALL PIECES, BIG PICTURE.

NEW HEMA FREE GEL POLISH FROM GLITTERBELS COMING SOON WITH HUGE LAUNCH PARTY FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA FOR DETAILS

glitterbels.com

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Nature calling Keen to practice conscious beauty buying? OPI has welcomed Nature Strong, a long-lasting lacquer range formulated with plant-based ingredients. Scratch learns more…

he UK’s natural beauty market is worth a whopping £106 million, and has seen consecutive growth over the last nine years. It seems that you – and your clients – are more clued up about what’s in your product formulas, and OPI’s research reveals that 36% of beauty consumers now expect to buy a more eco-conscious product, with natural-based formula.

Having supported the needs and demands of nail professionals worldwide for 40 years, OPI has launched Nature Strong – a lacquer line that features up to 75% of ingredients from natural origin. Featuring 30 shades inspired by nature and a Top Coat for added shine and protection, the formula features plant-based ingredients derived from sugar cane, manioc, wheat, potatoes and corn and is free of animal-derived ingredients and by-products. “Each shade practices consciousness of the environment and sustainability with a crafted bottle and cap made from 20% post-consumer recycled materials,” comments a spokesperson from OPI. “OPI has teamed up with The Vegan Society, the original vegan organisation and oldest in the world, to provide vegan credentials for Nature Strong.” To use Nature Strong, apply two coats of colour and seal with top coat. The highly pigmented formula stays on nails for up to seven days without fading. The natureinspired hues include earthy tones, bright pops of colour and timeless crèmes and shimmers. “All 30 shades capture the role colour plays in earth’s natural elements and showcase nature’s grace and wonder in a naturally sourced formula.”

DID YOU KNOW…?

Over half (54%) of consumers have bought eco-friendly beauty products in the last year. 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

Hot picks

Belinda Price, education manager for OPI UK & Ireland, shares her thoughts on the OPI Nature Strong range… “Environmental issues feature in the news every day and we are regularly reminded of our responsibility to clean up our lifestyle. OPI Nature Strong serves to support that and, after lockdowns and a challenging 18 months, I think the world could use some colour. “It’s natural for a brand to try and do the right thing by the planet and OPI wants to make a difference – but in a way that continues to celebrate colour and quality. “I really love the ethos of this range, but as a nail tech, I am drawn to the beautiful Nature Strong colours. It is great that I can make better choices for the environment without compromising on wear and shine.”

The dusty rose Knowledge Is Flower, carnation pink Big Bloom Energy and bright yellow Make My Daisy embody a love of blooms, big and small.

“All 30 shades capture the role colour plays in earth’s natural elements and showcase nature’s grace and wonder in a naturally sourced formula.”

Cobalt blue Shore Is Something!, lavender-grey Right As Rain and cool blue Raindrop Expectations channel water in all its forms.

The launch…

To celebrate the launch of the Nature Strong™ collection, OPI delivered a box of shades and colour-matched natural juices to Scratch’s Chloe to try out before attending a virtual press event on Zoom. “The event was a great insight into the natural beauty market and OPI’s Nature Strong collection,” comments Chloe Randall, Scratch’s news & features writer. “This collection fits the demands of environmentally conscious techs and clients and the shades are stunning. Shown is orchid pink shade, For What It’s Earth; a long-lasting hue that is rich in tone.”

Scan here to watch the OPI Nature Strong collection video. Deep purple A Great Fig World, shimmery burgundy Raisin Your Voice and radiant pink Simply Radishing offer a nod to organic fruits and vegetables.

OPI Nature Strong™ shades are £POA/RRP £13.90 each. www.opiuk.com /OPINailsUK

@opinailsuk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

s e p o c s l i a N

SPIRIT&STYLE

gn ris ti c s o f e a c h si te c ra a h c e th Im m e rs e in e xp lo re s c o lo u r Y E IL IE LL A C s a o f th e zo d ia c , u r st a r st yl e … yo it su to s n g si p ic ks & d e

BIRTHDAY FOCUS

Dave Partridge, owner/distributor of Nailchemy Nailchemy owner and distributor, Dave Partridge, celebrates his birthday on 11 September, falling under the Virgo star sign. “The nail industry is such a beautifully diverse environment and I really enjoy interacting with everyone I have come into contact with so far,” he smiles. “It can be a strange place for a man, but I have been welcomed with open arms from everyone that I have had the pleasure to meet or speak with.” A fan of blue hues, Dave has an analytical mind and great attention to detail. “I like to work under pressure, as this is when I produce my best work – fast paced and intense most of the time,” he explains. “I tend to obsess over projects and struggle to switch focus to anything else until that project is completed.” www.nailchemy.co.uk

/nailchemy

Virgo

AUGUST 23 – SEPTEMBER 22

t_ nailartis nward_ o @jorda ld V ir g o g ty in ads da by s to b a to u c h e r n a ils . boome

Happy birthday, Virgos! This month will bring a boost to your personal relationships and home life, with chances to receive recognition and acknowledgement for your work.

Dave’s favourite nail shade is Lupin gel polish from Nailchemy – a beautiful blue that’s also lucky for Virgos.

@nailchemy

Libra

SEPTEMBER 23 – OCTOBER 22

There is a focus on self expression for Libras this season. Family and the home are key focuses for this sign. Opt for an orange shade to boost your creativity! Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Catch Me If You Can £POA www.gsgroupuk.com

Scorpio

OCTOBER 23 – NOVEMBER 21

Scorpios are going to be extra productive this month, placing a strong emphasis on work and career. Apply a turquoise shade to nails to remind you to relax and enjoy some downtime, too!

OPI GelColor in My Studio’s On Spring £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Capricorn

Sa arius

NOVEMBER 22 – DECEMBER 21

September will bring new opportunities to Sagittarius in the workplace and in personal relationships. This month is the perfect time to reach out to an old friend.

DECEMBER 22 – JANUARY 19

Capricorns should remember to take breaks this season. Take time to recognise your achievements and work on your self-esteem – September is a time of healing for this sign.

Aries

Pisces

FEBRUARY 19 – MARCH 20

Personal relationships are at the forefront of September’s goals for Pisces. You should remember to accept help and support from people around you this month because it will help you grow and improve.

Gemini

MAY 21 – JUNE 20

Gemini individuals should put their personal relationships first this September, with new and exciting opportunities presenting themselves to the sign throughout this month.

30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

MARCH 21 – ARPIL 19

This month is a time of positivity, optimism and hope for Aries. Apply yellow hues to nails to increase the good vibes this month!

Glitterbels Acrylic Powder in Queen Bee £8.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

Aquarius

JANUARY 20 – FEBRUARY 18 Aquarians should spend time trying to break old habits. September is an insightful period for this sign, so reach for relaxing shades of silver.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Futuristic £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Taurus

APRIL 20 – MAY 20

Education and learning is at the centre of this month’s focus for Taurus. September encourages the sign to be more flexible and embrace living in the moment.

Cancer

JUNE 21 – JULY 22

Cancers should be spontaneous this September. Focus on hobbies and self-expression this month and make time for friends and family. Choose pink tones to bring out your fun side! Magnetic Gel Polish in Pink Cream £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

Leo

JULY 23 – AUGUST 22

Positive transformations and heightened creativity in the workplace await Leos this September. It is a period of positive growth in all aspects of the sign’s life.

WITHOUT Limits 8 NEW shades as inspired by nail expert Karen Louise. Available at your wholesaler now.

#Gellux

www.salonsystem.com

@salonsystem

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Chair – Marian Newman BEM

Deputy chair & director of information – Sue Davies

Director of education – Donna Clayton

Director of licence to teach – Jennie Nippard

Treasurer & financial director – Peter Borg

Membership secretary – Alexandra Cassells

THE FORCE

OF THE FEDS The FNP’s deputy chair & director of information, SUE DAVIES, shares why the industry is experiencing a staffing crisis – and why it’s imperative to review your business initiatives RECRUITMENT: THE FACTS

here have all the staff members gone? The last 18 months have been some of the strangest known to the modern world. As a world, a country, a region, an industry, a business and a family, our regular existence has changed. No one has been left untouched by the pandemic, be it physically, emotionally or financially and for many, it has been a time for reflection and life-changing thoughts and actions. In the last few months, I’ve sold my salon of 10 years to shift my focus, so I speak from experience of the life changes that coronavirus has encouraged. Peoples’ reflections have led to many changes; for some it’s more exercise, maybe relationship changes, even thankfulness for the life you have. Some have made bold moves, others, baby steps.

So, who is missing? From what I’ve been seeing and hearing across the industry, there are gaps due to a lack of students, which is down to a deficit in skills as a result of distance learning without a human model. There are all gaps where employees have chosen new pathways, in or out of the industry, and left their employment. So, what is the root cause of this? Yes, the pandemic has had a lot to do with it, but underlying this is an issue that has become evident from looking at the FNP’s Census of the Nail Industry results. For many salon employees and graduating students, the opportunity for a well-paid role with solid career progression is not that easy to find.

“Running a business means constantly reviewing your market, prices and team, ensuring you offer the best Our industry has fought to the bottom on price value for your over the last decade or more, and as a result, charges.” many cannot afford to pay their staff members

The nail industry being closed for so long has meant its workforce has changed. One thing that’s become apparent during recent lockdowns and reopening cycles is that there’s a recruitment crisis hitting our sector, which is exacerbating financial recovery on the salon floor.

From nail techs and therapists to stylists, there are daily calls from salon owners for help across our social media platforms, asking; ‘Where have all the candidates gone? Where can I get staff? Where can I advertise?’ It’s a growing problem for many other sectors too following the last 18 months of restrictions and life changes. Many employees have simply lost their passion for the job they previously loved and some have been unable to cope financially on furlough or reduced hours. Some have faced mental or physical health conditions that have affected them, while others have reviewed their current situation and wanted change, resulting in returning home to be with their family. There are those, however, that have seen an opportunity to change their working life and have left employment to begin their own ventures as mobile and homebased business owners. So much has shifted in a small space of time. 32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The pandemic has raised questions that some have found their own solution to, but these moves away from industry are now causing significant issues that have led to a salon staffing crisis.

their worth. Sometimes, even the owners are not taking anywhere near a living wage. The FNP census responses show that around 50% of employed staff members are earning minimum wage or very slightly above. What does this say about our skilled and often experienced workforce? It says that it is not valued. Starting graduates at this level is an entry point expectation perhaps, but how soon do their wages rise? What can we do as an industry to be more attractive to potential employees and graduating students, so the traditional face of this industry does not vanish from the high street? Well, I believe we need to look at pay and conditions. What are you, as an employer/salon owner, offering that other businesses aren’t? Do you offer commission schemes? Bonuses? Staff events? What makes it a great place for your team to operate in? What can you offer that is more appealing

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST than professionals going into self-employment so that they see it as the best way to earn a living? When self-employed becomes the best way and the easiest route to financial security, do we need to question where we went wrong, or should we be proud of the entrepreneurial spirit that is now prevalent? Or, is this new industry characteristic a flash in the pan and will we find many returning to the salon after realising that business management is not as simple as it seems? Part of this salon exodus also stems from salon owners who have, over the last few years, enforced self-employment on their employed teams. In HMRC terms this is a serious breach of employment law and removes employee’s rights to paid holiday, statutory benefits, pension payments and job security. Employers have done this because ‘they can’t afford’ employer costs. Again, this comes down to the fight to the bottom that our industry has seen. We have seen ever decreasing pricing scales among many salons, which has been their way of competing in what they deem to be the best way to capture the clients. This is an area of the beauty business that we need to tackle. Low price = low pay; yet there are high expectation values that seem to have become dominant in this industry. Clients need to realise that we value our worth and we must charge for it.

“One thing that’s Clients expect cheap, because an element of become apparent our industry has mistakenly given them cheap order to compete, when they could have during recent lockdowns inadded value and maintained a healthy and reopening cycles is profit. We have lowered our own value. We have made it less enticing to be an that there’s a recruitment employee. We have shown the only way crisis hitting our sector, to earn the money is to do it for yourself. which is exacerbating Running a business means constantly As an industry standard, if we all priced reviewing your market, prices and team, financial recovery on ensuring our treatments accordingly, potential you offer the best value for your clients would not see an ‘expensive’ salon, the salon floor.” charges and that you understand how to ‘run the they would see a salon that values its team, has quality products, good ongoing education, statutory compliance and a good business. Today, expensive is seen as what was once the going rate for a set of nails or lash extensions.

In today’s bottomless pit of prices, you can see gel nails being offered for £10 per set by home-based techs and as low as £15 in salon or acrylic enhancements being offered for £20-25. If we all priced our treatments so we could afford to pay our teams in line with their qualifications, skills and experience, cover their holiday pay, buy quality-driven and compliant products, pay our insurances, build in continued professional development and pay our overheads, then perhaps we could value ourselves, our staff and our industry a little more. I’ve been in the industry for a while and had my first set of professional nails done around 1985. I remember paying £28-30 for that set of acrylic nails (in context I was taking home £120 a week in a reasonably well paid office job). That price was in line with what you would expect to pay for a good cut and blow-dry with an experienced stylist. There wasn’t huge competition at the time and I had to travel to get my nails done. It was a long time ago and things have certainly changed. Now ask yourself, if you were charged £30 over 35 years ago, what should you expect to pay in 2021? Even if you charged £25 back then – what should you charge now? That once comparable cut & blow-dry is now in the region of £50-60. See the difference? And that cut & blow-dry will often be done while another client’s colour is taking. We cannot layer services in the nail sector, so we need to learn to value our time in a more financially savvy way. www.the-fnp.com

/TheFNPUK

business’. If you own a business, when was the last time you checked your pricing? When was the last time you asked your supplier for the cost per treatment of your products? When was the last time you got out the calculator and worked out how much everything costs, down to the last penny of outgoings in your business?

If you haven’t done this ever or even for a while, take time out and do the maths. You may be surprised what happens to the bottom line of the £25-30 for a set of acrylics that takes two hours to provide. Build in a good wage and extra earning capabilities for employees and see where the figures go. Build in better products and see the results in happier clients. Every business is different and building your business plan based on someone else’s pricing is potentially very damaging, as you never know what their costs are and how they are making their decisions. We have an opportunity to change our industry’s future. It’s in our hands right now. Never before has the modern world held its breath in the way it has throughout the pandemic. As the face of this industry changes, we must ask ourselves a lot of questions and must be honest in our answers. Are we serving the greater good? Are we representing our industry well? Are we developing our future professionals? Don’t be the business owner that decreases our value more. Be the business owner that pushes the boundaries and realises it is ‘OK’ to earn a good living doing something you love. @the_fnp_

Sue Davies of the FNP will host a webinar on the subject of recruitment, pricing & the future of the salon industry in the very near future.

@the_fnp_

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

AU T U M N 2 0 2 1 B U T T E R C R E A M S

The Power of Science Autumn 2021 collection by Light Elegance embodies their commitment to chemistry by infusing it with their passion for colour.

• Easy application for faster services

These six NEW on-trend shades provide maximum colour impact in an easy onecoat application.

• Perfect for detailed artwork

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT

• Apply over JimmyGel for 4+ weeks wear • 30-40 services per 5ml pot

Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

What’s Inside Matters. #ThisisLE

NEW

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Awarded the ‘Best New Product’ of 2020 for its versatility*, JimmyGel soak-off Building Base Gel is now available in four NEW shades, selected to complement a wide-range of manicure services and skin tones. *Awarded “Best New Product” of 2020 in NailPro Magazine’s Readers’ Choice Awards.

SCAN THE QR CODE TO DISCOVER MORE ABOUT LIGHT ELEGANCE

NEW Ideal Pink

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NAILTRENDS

THE AUTUMN/WINTER 2021

D N E R NAIL T

e s, ve w ith th e na il sh a p ur c e th f o d a he a re t yo u’ Sh o w yo ur c lie nt s th a um n/ w in te r se a so n ut a is th te no to d e ne st yl e s & sh a d e s yo u Kinetics SolarGel Nail Polish BY EMMA HOBDAY

THE TREND:

in #513 HQ Bond £8.25 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk

Spirit of the 70s

Salon System Gellux We Rise By Lifting Others £11.95 + VAT Available from wholesalers nationwide.

It’s time to rock some ﬂares, orange tinted sunnies and a poncho – colourful 70’s-style swirls are the biggest trend of 2021 so far, and will be continuing into autumn and winter. For an updated take on the nail trend, swap summery pastel shades for bright neons and rich autumnal colours.

Glitterbels Acrylic Powder in Tangerine £8.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Life on Mars from £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Colour note

The team at Kinetics epitomises 70’s style with this this wavy design using rustic shades.

Magnetic Nails Gel Polish in Taupe Cream £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk CND™ Shellac in Candlelight £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Trend tip

“Seventies trends are here to stay, and I am so here for it,” laughs Jaz Moger, Salon System nail expert. “Swirls, waves and colourful French tips will continue to prove popular for autumn and winter, but pastel shades will be swapped for burnt oranges, mustard yellows, olive greens and strong royal blues.”

Lecenté ambassador, Christy Laking, gives the wow factor with this eye-catching gold swirled design.

OPI GelColor in My Studio’s On Spring £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Pantone has revealed its Fashion Color Trend Reports for London Fashion Week, autumn/winter 21/22 . “A colour range of heartening hues reflective of the natural environment and our local surroundings is the inspiration,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. Magpie Gel Colour in Dear Deidre £11.94 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk

Statement pink white and orange swirls by @magdalena_nailstylist.

PANTONE Tomato Cream is a buttery brown that warms the heart.

PANTONE Winery implies poise and finesse.

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“Swirls will remain popular in various shades of brown and nude,” says Emma Sarda of Glitterama Nails Ltd. “Techs are becoming more adventurous with liner brushes, and geometric and line designs are increasing in popularity.”

NAILTRENDS

T R O P E R INK London iLac Gel Polish in i-210 Orion £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

Nails by the team at @nailconailbar using The Gel Bottle Inc shades in Espresso Martini, Brunette, Cocoa and Chocolate.

The Gel Bottle Inc in Brunette £14.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com Salon System nail expert, Julie-Anne Larivière, encompasses the 70’s spirit and joy with these colourful neon swirls.

CND Shellac™ in Wrapped in Linen £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Halo Gel Polish in Woo Woo £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co

“Clients will always be drawn to darker colours during autumn,” says Karen Yates, founder of Lady Showbiz. “Black, browns and classic reds will always be popular, however why not try a new and adventurous design? You could paint each nail a different colour, like a dark chocolate brown, a cranberry red, a deep forest green and an expressive orange. Autumn colours are sure to brighten any outfit and mood!”

Studs and moon and star accents complete this groovy ‘ nail look by @joydumpling.

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Laying Low (sold within the No Boundaries collection) £84.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

“Take inspirati on from classic shades such as beige, brown, chocolate and leather-look tones for nails this autumn,” advises CND™ educati on ambassador, Victoria Trafford. She add s, “Make sure you use a high shine top coat to really make these shades stand out! I’d advise offering CND Shell ac™ shades such as ‘Cuppa Joe’, ‘Arrowhead’ and ‘Wrapped in Linen’ to make this trend an opti on in your salon.”

Nail Perfect Upvoted Perfect Polish in 226 Music Baby £15 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Nails shown feature Cally Gel Polish in Chocolate Sparkle £5.95 inc VAT – available via www.callycosmetics.co.uk

Psychedelic nails with a stunning nude base by @_nails_by_megan, using products from The Nail & Beauty Network.

Artistic Colour Gloss in Be Bold £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

‘ Nail Lacquer in Peacci Peach £6 + VAT/RRP £10 www.peacci.com

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NAILTRENDS

THE TREND:

OPI GelColor in Metallic Composition £17.80 + VAT www.opiuk.com

Space it out

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Totally Trailblazing (sold within the No Boundaries collection) £84.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com

Negative space isn’t going anywhere. Combine nude and barely-there hues with artistry such as leopard print or tortoiseshell with pops of in-season colour.

:YOURS Irizdazzling Elements in Multi Disco £2.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Lecenté ambassador, Jenny Nagorski, gives a masterclass in negative space and tortoiseshell nail art.

Trend tip

Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Emily Cording, reveals that minimalism with negative space nail art will be popular this season. She adds, “Winter is all about layers, not only with our clothes but also with our nails. Adding geometric patterns on top of each other is what autumn/winter manis are all about this year.”

Nail Perfect Upvoted Perfect Polish in 223 Symphony £15 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Nude hues and marble tones make for a subtle and chic nail design. Courtesy of Cally Cosmetics, using products available from www.callycosmetics.co.uk

Halo Gel Polish in Mince Pie £5.49 + VAT www.purenails.co Nailchemy Gel Polish in Caramel £11.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Magpie educator, Danielle Osmond, nails the negative space trend with an autumnal take on leopard print.

Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Wood Smoke from £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Colour note NSI Simplicité Polydip in Sleigh Ride £6.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

PANTONE Daylily – an uplifting orange infused yellow with perennial appeal.

PANTONE Downtown Brown is a metropolitan brown with a bit of swagger.

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Pure Nails educator, Luci Goodyear, nails the coloured French tip trend with this look.

NAILTRENDS NailKind Nail Polish in Cashmere Kiss £8.95 inc VAT www.nailkind.com

Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel in Peach Petal £9.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk

Magnetic Nails Gel Polish in Peach Cream £14.80 + VAT www.magneticnails.uk

This pick ’n’ mix design by @Onyxaesthetics combines multiple trends in one.

Astonishing Nails Gelosophy Gel Polish in Get Tanned £12.50 + VAT www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Trend tip

Negative space with white, gold and tortoiseshell swirls make a winning combination by senior Magpie educator, Sophie Hudd.

Crystal Nails CrystaLac 3S142 Rum & Choc £13.95 + VAT www.crystalnails4u.co.uk

“Quirky takes on the classic French nail will be continuing well into the end of the year, with coloured tips, baby boomers and glitter fades being most popular,” comments Tina Bell of Pure Nails. “French is coming back in a big way this year, so start practicing your skills! Add a bit of lace or a design over them to really make them stand out.”

Halo Create Glitter in #BeAdored £1.69 + VAT Urban Graffiti Jelly www.purenails.co Gel Polish in Lychee £12.99 inc VAT www.naio-nails.co.uk

Georgie Smedley Group ambassador, Lisa Lilley, creates this negative space design with seasonal red, green and gold linework.

Negative space meets animal print in this fun design by @sabina.nail.artist using INK London products.

Kinetics Shield Gel Polish in #509 Affection £12.95 inc VAT www.bellabooprobeauty.co.uk www.kineticsnails.co.uk

Light Elegance Colour Gel in Tour Guide £18.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

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NAILTRENDS

THE TREND:

Artistic Colour Gloss in Go Your Own Way £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

INK London iLac Gel Polish in i-156 Retort White £7.50 + VAT www.inknails.com

Natural & neutral Baby pink, chic cream, beige and snowy white are all must-haves this season. Update the look with a sprinkle of glitter, dot and line work, and splashes of autumnal shades.

Pink and peach nails make for a chic, sophisticated look. Image courtesy of Glitterbels.

Glitterbels by Annabel Unbelievabel Gel in Peachy Butt £9.95 inc VAT www.nailsbyannabel.co.uk OPI Nature Strong in Let Nature Take It’s Quartz £POA/RRP £13.90 www.opiuk.com

The Gel Bottle Inc shades in Crème, Blanc & Silk from the Sheer Simplicity collection £14.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com Nails showcasing The Gel Bottle Inc’s gel polish shade in Truffle from the Sheer Simplicity collection.

Trend tip

Lecenté ambassador, Christy Laking, makes a statement by merging a perfect nude pink with a classy white shade.

Lecenté Create Colour Gel Polish in Palais Royal £11.99 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com www.lecente.com www.ellisons.co.uk

“There has been a definite shift in nail shapes from long nails to shorter, more natural, and low maintenance nails, which I would expect to see continue into 2022,” reveals Tina Bell of Pure Nails. “I predict ballerina nails, squoval or square shapes for a more modern look.”

Colour note

PANTONE First Blush – a delicate and tender pink.

PANTONE Perfectly Pale – reminiscent of a sandy beach.

40 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A neutral base with splashes of merlot, glitter and gold foil details make for a pretty autumnal design. By Light Elegance nail tech, Mandi Cox.

Light Elegance P+ Gel Polish in Kiss Me in Kenya £13.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

NAILTRENDS Mii Colour Confidence Nail Polish in Precious Metal from £4.50 + VAT/RRP £9 www.gerrardinternational.com

Trend tip

CND Vinylux™ in Wooded Bliss £4.95 + VAT/RRP £11.95 www.sweetsquared.com

Magda Gniewek at Magnetic Nails UK says, “The perfect nude is meant to complement the client’s skin tone, so consider the skin’s undertones and the hue of the nail bed to find a nude to suit.”

Pretty in pink nails with jewelled tips, by Georgie Smedley ambassador, Lisa Lilley. Lecenté Create shades in Black Magic and White Magic are used in this edgy French-style design by Katie Alice.

Nailchemy Gel Polish in Buttermilk £11.99 + VAT www.nailchemy.co.uk

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Keep ‘Em Guessing (sold as part of the No Boundaries collection) £84.95 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com NSI Attraction Acrylic Powder in Rose Blush £11.95 + VAT www.nsinails.co.uk

@gisellanails encompasses autumn with a pretty gradient of nudes. We love the symbolism of the dandelion flying away and the silver glitter, a perfect stepping stone into winter nails.

Cuccio Brush-On Colour Builder Gel in Cloud White £11.99 + VAT www.cuccio.co.uk

NexGenNails Dip Powder in Crystal Pink Sheer £23 inc VAT www.gopretty.co.uk

Pure Nails educator, Sarah Vernon, showcases swirls, clouds and neutrals in one design.

Salon System Gellux in Secure in the Nude £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.

@leonailstyle nails the milk bath trend with stunning gold line work, ideal for autumn or winter.

The barely-there Dune shade from TGB’s Sheer Simplicity collection looks delicate and sophisticated – suiting the season and beyond.

‘

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NAILTALES



INTERNATIONAL

Nail Spy ALEX FOX explores local trends in the nail & beauty spheres in C a n a d a

Tech Talk

Name: Valérie Ducharme Job title: Nail Artist & Business Coach Business name: Académie Valérie Ducharme Location: Laval, Québec, Canada

My story “I’ve worked in several different areas of the nail industry; as a self-employed owner of a beauty salon, an educator, multi-award winner (including the USA’s Nails Next Top Nail Artist season 5), Fashion Week nail designer, product distributor, social media influencer and business coach. I help hundreds of entrepreneurs achieve their goals and objectives and feel I’m helping to raise industry standards by valuing the people behind the nails.”

Nail styles “My clients tend to wear one colour with a feature nail either with painted design, jewellery composition or nail art. The French manicure is also slowly becoming popular. In Canada, and especially in Quebec, we are influenced by European and American trends, which offer a nice mix between classic and eccentric styles. Clients are demanding more nail art and bling, whereas 15-25 year olds are more sober in their styling and choose short nails.”

Differences “In Quebec there are no nail industry regulations, associations or standards, and nails is not recognised by government as a profession. This affects the quality of basic training and the quality of services. It’s my mission to raise standards of this industry through quality products and training, and by working with the community and government to obtain the necessary professional recognition. “I’m proud to say that my own brand, the Valérie Ducharme liquid & powder, resins, activators, files, top coat, as well as brushes, nail tips and bling art pieces, are proving popular. For gel, En Vogue and CND™ are in high demand, as are Kupa e-files and MBI manicure tools.”

Brand spotlight:

Akzentz

As a result of many years of R&D, Haigh Industries developed the Akzentz brand of professional nail products. It was founded by Sandra Haigh, who opened her salon, Accent On Nails in 1984 and Haigh Industries in April 1986. The growth and development of Akzentz continues to be guided by Sandra, president, Frank Haigh, vice president and Cheryl Campbell, director of sales & marketing. Sandra continues to be responsible for the creation and manufacturing of innovative pro nail products and remains committed to raising standards and meeting the needs of 21st Century nail professionals. “Akzentz is available worldwide, so we see a slight variation in techniques and trends in different parts of the world,” cites Sandra Haigh. “We find that the UK runs in line with European trends, standards, techniques and colours. From Europe they tend to filter into the UK fairly quickly and then onto America, Canada and the rest of the world. Europe sets a bit of a benchmark for the rest of the world with its high standards when it comes to products and training.

Akzentz bestsellers

“We are finding due to the current Covid-19 climate that many more nail artists are seeking out 1. Shine-On, a tack-free, high quality online tutorials. solvent-free, shatterproof top gloss with a mirror-like finish. We’ve developed the Akzentz 2. Luxio By Akzentz, a creamy, rich Certified Education (A.C.E) gel with easy application. programme as an online 3. Trinity 3 in 1, designed to option for those restricted function as a base coat, overlay or when it comes to travel or extension, as well as a top gloss. Can be applied in a attending classes in person.” single step.

Did you know?

www.valerieducharme.com /vdnailart

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@vdnailart

Champion nail artist, Hazel Dixon, is the UK distributor for Akzentz. Hazel has also developed her own L&P and gel polish product line called HD Professional, which sits alongside Azkzentz. In a bid to guarantee a safe and compliant range, Hazel had her gel polishes validated by a top scientist to get approval to cure her gel polishes under the Akzentz UV/LED nail lamp. www.hazeldixonnails.com

GO YOUR OWN WAY

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torque it!

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BOUNDARY BREAKER

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

HIT

refresh Boost your nail know-how & kick your skills up a step with a peek at the revamped & refreshed education programme from Georgie Smedley Group CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

he traditional art of nail training has always been hands-on and in-person due to the practical nature of nail styling. So when the pandemic hit, the idea for education programmes to enter the virtual world at first seemed unlikely. However, as time went on and techs became even more eager to exercise their skills, adaptations were made. Educators turned to Zoom and Facebook Live to offer demos – which then turned into in-depth seminars and courses as both learners and training providers familiarised themselves with the platforms. The benefits of such a learning style became apparent, as training became more accessible to all. It meant a less intimidating environment for anxious workers, fewer travel costs and the opportunity to learn at any time of day. So for some education providers, like Georgie Smedley Group, these benefits have been woven into education programmes – serving up handy hybrid options to support the developing nail pro. Georgie Smedley Group (GSG), formerly Nail Harmony UK, has carefully given its Scratch Stars award-winning education programme a refresh to suit the postlockdown environment. At the helm is newly appointed head of education, Kristina Manners, who has a wealth of experience in the nail realm. 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Since the beginning of 2021, I have been working exhaustively on revamping the whole Georgie Smedley Group education programme to suit the needs of the new world we find ourselves in,” Kristina comments. “It has been my goal to retain the highest standard of training, mentoring and support while evolving with the times. “Our education programme is now offered in-venue, in-salon and online, and all courses are fully accredited. Marian Newman’s Nail Knowledge diploma is a prerequisite to all our beginner courses which can be booked via our new website.

“It is our responsibility to make sure we provide well-rounded and complete training to all our students to ensure we support a wholly professional industry with integrity. I take this responsibility very seriously and this is why we are now looking at continuously improving our education programme and building our team.” Here, check out the exciting offerings – while I try my hand at one of the revamped courses…

MEET KRISTINA MANNERS Head of education, Georgie Smedley Group Kristina began her journey in the nail industry as an apprentice 30 years ago and since then, has been involved in all corners of the nail world. From running a large and busy salon in Marbella to starting her own nail academy and distribution centre in Spain, Kristina has also worked extensively in nail education. It was during her time as a global educator for EzFlow that Kristina met Georgie Smedley, and the pair worked together across the globe. Alongside working for EzFlow, Kristina has worked as a global educator for American International Industries (AII) and headed up international education for Nail Alliance, which boasts Gelish in its portfolio. It was here that she crossed paths with Georgie Smedley again, UK distributor for Gelish. She worked as a dean of education and international events & education director for Nail Alliance, mentoring techs worldwide to become educators, and she has imparted her knowledge as a nail competition judge. Now head of education for Georgie Smedley Group, Kristina is looking forward to supporting its educators and helping existing and future technicians develop and achieve their goals and dreams.

EDUCATIONNAVIGATION THE COURSE LIST

• Nail Knowledge • All That Jazz Manicure / Pedicure • Gelish Beginners Natural Nail / Beginners Comprehensive / Conversion • Gelish Design • Gelish PHD Advanced • Gelish Soft Gel • Gelish Dip Beginners / Conversion • Prohesion L&P Beginners Comprehensive / Conversion / Beginners Sculpting / Beginners Reflections Design • Prohesion L&P PHD Advanced / PHD Advanced Sculpting / PHD Advanced Reflections Design • PolyGel Beginners Comprehensive / Basic / Beginners Sculpting • PolyGel PHD Advanced / PHD Advanced Sculpting • Gelish Hard Gel Beginners Comprehensive / Conversion / Beginners Sculpting • Gelish Hard Gel PHD Advanced / PHD Advanced Sculpting • E-file Comprehensive / Basic • Fibreglass • Brow Lamination Class (BLX) • Classic Lashes Class (one by one) • Russian Lashes Class • Lash Lift LLX • Henna Brows • Enhancing Skills Workshop

“Education is a continuous journey. We never stop learning.” TRAINING TRY-OUT

I was invited to try the virtual Gelish Soft Gel course via Microsoft Teams, led by GSG master educator, Catherine Jimenez. A kit had been posted out to me and an overview of the course was given before a detailed demo of Soft Gel tips application and removal, with plenty of time for questions and thorough explanations of the products involved.

Chloe Randall

Catherine Jimenez

TRAINING LOWDOWN

Georgie Smedley Group utilises the Nail Harmony (Gelish), All That Jazz, AeroPuffing and Lash eXtend brands within its courses. The courses serve novices to veteran technicians by offering the systems and techniques needed to become successful. “We guide students throughout their journey with ongoing case studies and support worksheets and we continue to mentor them throughout their career,” reveals Kristina. “Once an individual has trained successfully with GSG, they are a certified and accredited GSG member and have a lifelong commitment from us to mentor and help them throughout their career. All our courses are now available with an incredible kit package which has been heavily reduced in price to help students invest in themselves.” The education offering at Georgie Smedley Group has been made more concise. With all courses fully accredited by ABT, each course can either be taken online, in-venue, in-salon or on a one-to-one basis. “We offer a full understanding of the products, techniques and background of the system or skills being taught,” Kristina continues. “We are building life skills and will work with each individual to ensure they get to a place where they are ready and confident to pass their assessment to be certified.” All students need to pass a live assessment and a theory questionnaire, securing a score of over 65% to pass the training.

WHAT’S NEXT?

As one of Georgie Smedley Group’s best-selling courses, Catherine’s setup the Soft Gel training course for online training was made even easier to follow with the workbook provided. It includes application step-by-steps which can be referred to at my convenience. Working along with the demo in real time, Catherine was able to provide feedback and ensure that I followed all points correctly through the comfort of a screen.

Once the course is completed, Georgie Smedley Group provides lifetime technical, business and marketing support. The Georgie Smedley Group Technical Help Page on Facebook is accessible to all students that have trained with the company. Georgie Smedley Group has educators across the UK and is seeking to add to its team. If this is of interest, email headofeducation@gsgroupuk.com

READY TO BOOK?

Georgie Smedley Group has revamped its training website, making it super straightforward to select and enrol on a course of your choice and purchase the necessary kit. Scan here to check it out Chloe’s online learning setup

Chloe’s finished Soft Gel nails

www.gsgroupuk.com / www.nailtraininguk.com /GeorgieSmedleyGroup @georgiesmedleygroup SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

Getting down to s s e n i s u b SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Take note as the NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION serves up support & advice for beauty business owners

About the NHBF

The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) is the UK’s largest trade body for businesses working in the hair, beauty and barbering industries. The National Hair Federation launched its sister trade association for the beauty industry (NBF) in 2018, and the body relaunched as the NHBF in 2019. With Richard Lambert as the chief executive, the association provides specialist business support, advice and backup to hair and beauty businesses. Honing over 75 years’ experience, the not-for-profit organisation aims to be a reliable source of information for you and your business.

Why do you need nail salon software? usinesses that don’t use a computerised system may find it almost impossible to track key performance indicators such as average bills, rebookings, retention and retail sales.

Trying to collate this information manually is an arduous and time-consuming process – but without it, how can you manage your team, your clients or your nail salon effectively?

Team management How well do you know your team? Do you know which of your team: • Earns you the most profit? • Sells the most retail products? • Has the most high-value appointments? It isn’t straightforward to answer these questions without the information to do so accurately. Nail salon software holds all the answers to these questions because while you use the software for your daily routine, it quietly collects and analyses all this information for you.

Client management

NHBF director, Tina Beaumont-Goddard

NHBF director, Tina BeaumontGoddard, says: “Gathering information about your clients will allow you to send meaningful, targeted messages about services and offers of interest.

“As well as ensuring clients are up-to-date with offers, it would help if you also looked at the things you could introduce to improve the client’s experience. For example, many clients love technology features such as booking online and appointment reminder texts.”

Stock control Stock control is challenging to manage, but practically all of the work is done for you with a software system. Tracking what you sell and use within the salon can produce automated stock orders that can be amended and forwarded to your suppliers. www.nhbf.co.uk @nhbfsocial

/nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial

46 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Tina adds: “Having accurate stock information allows you to track the value of the product you hold and your most profitable and popular

products, ensuring that you don’t waste money or tie up valuable cash flow when it’s not needed.”

How to find your perfect nail salon software Installing software can seem daunting, but the benefits of increased client contact, better time management and performance monitoring tell their own story. Here are our top tips when looking for a nail salon software provider: • Do your research and shortlist some companies. Contact each company you’re interested in and get further information. If you feel comfortable after your conversation, then arrange face-toface demonstrations with a representative. • Make sure you understand what you want from your software and what is important to you. It would help if you first looked at the diary, marketing, reporting and stock functions and then other benefits such as text reminders, web booking and how to access your software when you’re away from the salon. • Get clear quotes from your chosen potential suppliers and read the small print. • Make sure you understand all the ongoing costs and what’s included or not included in any support package. • Look at the combined software, hardware and package options. • Don’t get stressed! Your supplier would have been through this process many times with other salons and should hold your hand all the way. NHBF members can download an in-depth guide to choosing and using salon software via www.nhbf.co.uk/salon-software-guide

How the NHBF can help The NHBF is the UK’s largest trade body for hairdressing, barbering and beauty salons. We’re always here for you at the end of a phone. Whatever your business or HR query, our friendly and knowledgeable membership team can help you out, 9-5, Monday to Friday. And for trickier legal questions, you can rely on our free 24/7 helpline. Take advantage of discounted products and services, use our free templates and policies, including GDPR, no-shows, and complaints, download our free guides and benefit from some business coaching provided by industry experts.

COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

INSTANT

attraction

Feast your eyes on the product & training offerings from Magnetic Nail Design & find out more about the forces behind the brand… CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS

Pepyn Borrèl, Mey Liang & Jaap Steeman

THE STORY SO FAR…

Magnetic Nail Design was launched by Dutch nail stylist, Mey Liang. She has grown her career from a salon owner to becoming a leading wholesaler of nail products in the Netherlands. Mey’s knowledge and love for the profession, her ideas about technology and products, coupled with the financial economic background of her life partner, Jaap Steeman, have led to the development of Magnetic Nail Design worldwide. CEO Pepyn Borrèl, who is also renowned globally as a nail artist, joined Magnetic Nail Design over 10 years ago to aid the growth of the brand.

THE PRODUCTS

The Magnetic Nail Design range is bountiful – offering everything a salon tech needs to thrive day-to-day. The brand’s big focus is on natural nailcare and it champions its Seal & Protect strengthening product and gently perfumed luxury manicure range, Seduction. The portfolio includes: • Prestige acrylic system • Acrylic paints • Airnails airbrush system • Brushes, e-file bits, files & buffers • Lamps, lights, e-files & dust collectors • Nail art products; chromes, pigments, glitters, foils, stickers, decals & more • Builder, Fiber, Extender & Sculpting Gels • Power Gel • Plasti Gel • Nail Art Ink • Stamping products • Salon essentials

DID YOU KNOW…?

Magnetic Nail Design boasts over 300 educators worldwide – and its products are available in 48 countries.

BEST SELLERS

Magnetic Nail Design is truly passionate about gels, and the UV Standard Gel was the first gel that Mey produced. Each gel features a ‘Flex Indicator’ on the side of the jar to see how flexible or hard the gel is after curing. Gels include Sculpting Fiber Gel, Builder Gel, Sculpting Nail Plate Extender Gel and Builder Gel in a Bottle.

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COMPANYSPOTLIGHT

JOURNEY TO THE UK

Magda Gniewek

Magnetic Nail Design products are distributed in the UK by Magda Gniewek, who also offers training for each of the brand’s systems. “Being a part of the Magnetic family has helped me develop as a tech, educator and as a person,” Magda reveals.

“Watching my students reap success helps me focus on coaching other nail stylists and enable them to discover their strengths and successfully achieve their goals, to be happy in their role and make money at the same time. “The nail industry is constantly changing and evolving, and Magnetic Nail Design considers the trends and the demands of its distributors, educators and techs. The brand constantly improves and adds new products to the existing line, all of which are tested in salons by professional nail technicians before they are launched.”

Magnetic Nail Design distributors gather at an international distributor meeting

THE MAGNETIC NAIL ACADEMY “Mey’s aim has always been to grow the market through proper education,” Magda explains. “All Magnetic Nail Academy educators are trained by the Magnetics International team to keep the same standards all over the world, with continued re-certifications and additional training to allow educators to develop and maintain their skills at the highest level. “At Magnetic Nail Academy, we teach and coach our students to become the best they can be, from basic courses to advanced, skill-building classes and various nail art techniques. There are four training centres in the UK; in Edinburgh, Southampton, Aberdeen and North Lanarkshire.”

“Magnetic Nail Design educators provide nailists with practical training complemented by world class products. We believe that our success depends on the success that every nail technician experiences with our training and products.”

NAIL TALK!

Magnetic Nail Design hosts a video show, Nail Talk Live, streamed live on Facebook and YouTube. It features nail chat, tutorials and techniques to help make the most of Magnetic products. The new season begins on 10 September. Scan here to check out the episodes on YouTube.

Magnetic Nail Academy is seeking educators across the UK. Interested? Email info@magneticnailscotland.co.uk www.magneticnails.uk

/magneticnailsuk

@magnetic_shop_uk

Magnetic Nails UK

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PRODIY

Stylish & Steady INK London educator, SIMONE RADLEY, shares a step-by-step guide to creating an elegant one stroke design using Steady Nail Art Gels

You will need About Simone Radley Lincoln-based nail technician, Simone Radley, has been in the nail industry for five years and hones the role of INK London educator for Lincolnshire. She creates nail tutorials for the brand’s YouTube channel and has a passion for artistry. The talented tech has won numerous medals and awards at Nail Masters and Nailympia London competitions, and was a finalist for the Scratch Stars Shooting Star Award 20/21 owing to her dedication to creating content and industry success. /Simoneradleynailsandtraining @simoneradleynails

• • • • •

INK iLac i161, £7.50 + VAT Velvet Matte No Wipe Top Coat, £10 + VAT Steady Art Gel, £8.33 + VAT (£37.50 + VAT for a 5pk) One Stroke Gel Brush OS2, £4.17 + VAT Ultimate No Wipe Top Coat, £12.50 + VAT

DID YOU KNOW…?

INK London’s Steady Nail Art Gels are highly pigmented and comparable to acrylic paints. They are ideal for creating high definition lines, swirls, ombré and general nail art looks.

“I love using INK products as they are so versatile, easy to use and give great results!” Simone Radley

Step 1 Prep the nails and apply two coats of INK iLac i161, curing between each coat. Next, apply Velvet Matte No Wipe Top Coat and cure. The Steady Nail Art Gels apply like acrylic paints and work best on a matte base. Step 2 The Steady Nail Art Gels can be mixed to create bespoke shades. Mix the red and white Steady Nail Art Gels to create both a light and a dark shade of pink. Pick the shades up with the One Stroke Gel Brush and paint petal shapes onto the nail. Cure.

Step 3 Apply a second layer of the pink shades to intensify the colour. Paint a smaller petal shape on top of the flower bud shape and cure. Step 4 Mix the yellow, blue and white Steady Nail Art Gels on a palette to create two shades of green. Pick up the shades using the One Stroke Gel Brush and paint leaf shapes onto the nail, as well as a green cuff around the base of the flower bud. Cure.

www.inklondon.com

Step 5 Apply a second coat of green to the leaves to aid colour intensity. After curing, paint fine details onto the leaves as desired and add a white outline to the flowers, as well as white dots at the centre of the flower. Cure.

/inknailslondon

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@inklondon

/INKLondon

Step 6 Apply a coat of Ultimate No Wipe Top Coat to finish and cure.

Scan here to watch Simone’s video tutorial of this design

INDUSTRYEVENT

STARS SHINE BRIGHT

They battled a pandemic, a virtual judging feat & then a flood – but our Scratch Stars finalists & friends made it to the Scratch Stars Party for the ultimate reunion & recognition of the nail industry’s finest… HELENA BIGGS REPORTS

ell, what a journey that was. In the nine years that the Scratch team has run the Scratch Stars Awards, we could have never imagined the challenges that were to impact the 2020 event. Launched to recognise the incredible nail techs, salons and teams within the nail industry, the pandemic presented a delay – and change – to the judging process and an even further halt on the renowned Scratch Stars Party, hailed as ‘the Oscars of the nail industry’. However, on 25 July 2021, just six days after coronavirus restrictions had been lifted in England, the Scratch Stars Party took place – and boy, did our industry embrace the word ‘party!’

The ‘pingdemic’ had threatened to stop play, as several attendees and sponsors had to forego party plans and stay at home, and torrential downpours on the evening of the event saw floods cause travel chaos – but our industry didn’t let us down. Guests turned up to London cabaret club, Proud, in their finest, eager for the first big foray since the pandemic began.

Welcomed into the oh-so glitzy and glamorous twostorey venue, the nail industry arrived in droves, keen to network and embrace all the entertainment and excitement that the party had to offer. Pop music pumped through the venue’s speakers as guests sipped prosecco and caught up with friends they’d made through Facebook and Instagram – but were meeting in person for the first time. With spirits (and stiletto heels) high, the clock struck eight ‘o’ clock and the suave and oh-so dashing Duncan James, formerly of Blue boyband fame, strutted to the stage to entertain guests with renditions of Sorry Seems To Be The Hardest Word and Crazy by Seal. Following rapturous applause, he welcomed the evening’s hosts – myself and former Scratch editor-in-chief, Alex Fox, to the stage to commence awards proceeedings. Our finalists in the Scratch Stars Awards had been so patient with the adaptations made to proceedings due to the pandemic. Normally, judging would have taken place briskly after finalists had been announced, with either a live judging process in London or mystery shops and requests for additional statistics. However, our finalists – and our incredible judges – had waited for almost 18 months and adapted to virtual judging processes in order to bring them to the Scratch Stars Party arena.

Entry for the Scratch Stars Awards 2022 opens 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

INDUSTRYEVENT

One by one, each category winner was announced – with many squashing former social distancing rules to congratulate their peers and join in the joy of their success. An interval period allowed for pick ‘n’ mix, popcorn, glitter make-up and more prosecco to be had – before Duncan returned to the stage (this time in corset and suspenders) to sing Rocky Horror’s Sweet Transvestite while a fire dancer transfixed attendees with her performance. Once more, Alex and I took to our lecterns to award our Scratch Stars with their glittering trophies and accolades – with many hugs to be had and tears of joy shed. There are too many highlights to mention – but our evening was topped off with the Services to the Nail Industry Award presented to Liza Smith, and Lifetime Achievement Award to Marian Newman BEM. As flashes of light broke over the stage, our winners were papped for a photo and attendees pounded their best moves on the dance floor, overjoyed at seeing each other in person and being able to let loose for the first time in what felt like forever. It truly was the ultimate nail industry reunion – and we are so proud of this sector and its resilience, persistence and true partying capability. We can’t wait until the 10th Scratch Stars Party – see you in 2022! Helena Biggs

Alex Fox

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“Winning was never something that entered my mind, and just to be placed as an L&P Tech of the Year finalist amongst four talented techs was incredible. The Zoom judging presented a Covid-safe playing field and I can’t wait to enter the competition next year!” Kylea Wherry, Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 20/21

“I can’t put into words what winning this award means to me; I’m thrilled to be One Stroke Artist of the Year for the third year running and am so excited for the future! This year was a little different; we competed via Zoom which was a little strange for me as I’m a bit of a technophobe but it was an amazing experience. “This last year has been tough and the Scratch Stars Party was just what was needed to get us excited about the industry again. It’s a great night full of entertainment and I love meeting and catching up with everyone in the industry. I can’t wait for the next one!” Rebecca Isaac, Scratch Stars One Stroke Artist of the Year 20/21

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“I have entered Scratch Stars Awards in the Mixed Media Artist and Nail Stylist categories for a number of years, and as the only awards organisation dedicated to just nails, it is the most coveted for me. “Every year is tough and I’ve been thrilled to make it as a finalist, competing against some of my idols. To finally win this year was amazing. I saw the improvement in my work each time; perseverance and determination won and two awards came along at once! “The party was amazing fun and after the last 18 months I knew that whatever happened, reuniting with industry friends and my HD Nail Artist Academy team meant it was going to be a great night; it didn’t disappoint! Winning the Nail Team of the Year award with HD Nail Artist Academy put us on an even bigger high; we danced, we sang, we got glittered and had so much fun. Scratch throws the best parties!” Kayley Cairns, Scratch Stars Mixed Media Artist & Nail Stylist of the Year 20/21

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“Winning the Scratch Stars Educator of the Year award is a dream come true. I am so passionate about education and my role, and so to have it recognised with such a prestigious award is just amazing! “My students are the ones who encouraged me to enter. They said, ‘Jennie you always push us to be the best we can be and to get the recognition we deserve; now it’s your turn!’ “The competition was super tough, I put everything into it, but still I was so shocked to hear my name read out as the winner. I’m still buzzing and the Scratch Stars Party was such a fantastic night! Being out with people from our industry was wonderful. We had waited so long to mix that it made it so special and coming home with the beautiful Scratch Stars trophy was the icing on the cake!” Jennie Nippard, Scratch Stars Educator of the Year

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INDUSTRYEVENT

“The email I received asking if I would accept the Lifetime Achievement Award was so unexpected. I was truly overjoyed and overwhelmed! “At the start of the week, I had received my British Empire Medal at a wonderful ceremony at The Old Palace, Hatfield House, which was followed by the Scratch Stars Awards six days later. I had to wait until the very last award of the evening but, I really did feel that most approved of me receiving this wondrous award and that makes it all worthwhile. I have to thank Millie Kendall MBE (and Helena for inviting her!) for her ’tear making’ words that Alex Fox read out. Wow! “Thank you Scratch and thank you to our nail industry. Congratulations to all the finalists and winners. This really is the very best awards for our fabulous sector!” Marian Newman BEM – Lifetime Achievement Award

Missed the big event? Check out the video

With thanks to our 20/21 sponsors:

To see the full list of winners and photos from the Scratch Stars Party 20/21, head to www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars /scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT

uff

TOUGH

Say hello to Halo Elite Hard Gel; the nail system that holds shape & helps add structure, build & extend…

uit the nail needs of all enhancement clients with the handy Halo Elite Hard Gel system; the latest launch from the Pure Nails portfolio. Featuring five hard gel shades alongside a Fibre Gel and a Sculpting Gel, the products are formulated to add structure, build and extend.

Following a coat of the vitamin E infused Halo Elite Primer, apply tips or sculpting forms followed by your chosen Hard Gel, and cure using the Halo Smart Lamp Pro. “Halo Elite Hard Gel can be used in conjunction with the full range of Halo Gel Polish base and top coats, including the Rubber Base Coat,” comments Tina Bell, head of education for Pure Nails. “Using one of these Base Coats underneath the Hard Gel helps with removal, enabling the Hard Gel to soak off once the bulk has been removed by filing.

Meet the products HALO ELITE PRIMER

Formulated to provide optimum adhesion for every service, this acid-based primer is infused with vitamin E and helps prevent lifting of enhancements, increasing longevity of wear. Available in a 15ml bottle for £9.95 + VAT.

“The Sculpting Gel has a thicker viscosity than the Hard Gel and is available in the glass-like Clear, like its gel counterpart. Long-lasting and hard wearing, Halo Elite Hard Gel holds shape with flexibility built in, and is HEMA-monomer free. We are confident that nail techs will fall in love with the system!”

HALO ELITE HARD GEL

Nails enhanced with Halo Elite Hard Gel by Tina Bell, and finished with Halo Gel Polish.

Available in Bright White, Clear, Cover Pink, Cover Warm Pink and Sheer Soft Pink, this medium viscosity gel is self-levelling. It can be used with forms or tips to enhance length, and used to infill existing hard gel enhancements. Available in 15g (£18.95 + VAT) and 30g (£29.95 + VAT) sizes.

HALO ELITE FIBRE GEL Fibre Gel is ideal for nail repairs and allows any chips or cracks to grow out naturally without breaking. Boasting a medium to thick viscosity and infused with 10% fibreglass, it’s super strong with low flexibility and ideal for extreme nail extensions. Available in 15g (£18.95 + VAT) and 30g (£29.95 + VAT) sizes.

Nails by Pure Nails educator, Nicole Dowling.

DID YOU KNOW…? Are you keen to try the range before you commit? Pure Nails offers the Halo Elite Trial Kit (£19.95 + VAT) which features 8g sizes of Halo Elite Hard Gel in Cover Pink, Bright White and Sculpting Clear alongside a sample pack of 10 Halo Elite Nail Forms. In addition, you can scan the QR code within the kit to view demos of the system on the Pure Nails YouTube channel, courtesy of Tina Bell, head of education for Pure Nails. Tina Bell

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HALO ELITE SCULPTING GEL This clear, thick viscosity and non selflevelling Hard Gel can be used to build and extend using Pure Nails tips or Halo Elite Nail Forms. It’s ideal for L&P acrylic users looking to switch to a gel system, and thins upon agitation for increased versatility and speed. Available in 15g (£15.95 + VAT) and 30g (£24.99 + VAT) sizes.

Available via www.purenails.co and leading wholesalers. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk

@purenailsuk

/PureNailsHaloGelPolish

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Get to know LAURA EASBY, the brand ambassador with a passion for freehand painting & a burgeoning Instagram following

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TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Laura Easby Age – 27 years Business name – Laura’s Beauty Location – Teesside Years in nails – Almost nine years Trained with – Gelish and The Gel Bottle Inc. Fav products – The Gel Bottle Inc’s Builder in a Bottle shade in Teddy is my go-to; I use it in most of my nail services. Fav nail technique – I enjoy handpainting designs onto a neutral base as it allows me to get really creative. Fav nail design – An alternative French mani with various colour combinations.

Career ambition & vision – I’m pretty happy with my career as it stands; I have a gorgeous cabin that I work from at home and a huge, loyal client base. I’m also a brand ambassador for The Gel Bottle Inc and I have over 32,000 followers on Instagram. I’m comfortable and happy, and I think that’s a great position to be in. Who do you admire in the industry? I admire Rosemarie Jones aka @rosemarie_nailartist as she journeyed into nails on her own at the beginning of the last lockdown and continued to hone her skills and never gave up. Now, her career is thriving and her skills are amazing.

@lbebeauty

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Mindful SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

ma ers

Mental health & wellbeing coach, DAVE HEFFERNAN, offers profound pointers to help you achieve a positive mindset

eptember is here already and I can’t quite believe that I’ve been writing this column for nearly a year. During this time, I have met some amazing people, and had the huge honour of helping many of you.

ABOUT DAVE HEFFERNAN Dave Heffernan is a coach, speaker and mental health guru. He works with corporates and individuals to create awareness, end stigma and educate on areas surrounding mental health and wellness. Dave has launched programmes to support mental health in the workplace and to create positive, forward-thinking environments in which employees can enjoy working. Born in Salford, Dave dealt with extraordinary life issues including death, grief, abuse, homelessness and violence; but this didn’t hold him back. In fact, it created the momentum and passion that Dave spreads today. As an expert in mental health, Dave has moved from the raw, real-life issues that he’s faced, to helping other people face theirs.

How I can help I offer a range of services, from informal phone calls to regular, structured coaching and hypnotherapy sessions. If you’d like to find out more about me, visit my website www.daveheffernan.com or feel free to call me for a chat on 07824 513120.

www.daveheffernan.com /daveheffernanltd

@daveheffernanltd

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This month, I wanted to speak a bit more about my background; where I come from and how I got to where I am now. I’ve had quite a colourful life, and my story is littered with grief, abuse, homelessness and violence. Instead of allowing my history to hold me back in life, I learnt how to use the experiences it taught me to build a new path for myself and lead me to where I am now.

My early life At the age of five, I became an altar boy at my school, and over the next 13 years I attended and served at over 3,000 funerals. By the age of eight, I was essentially a grief counsellor; adults used to come and sit next to me at the pew and pour their heart out and I would listen for what seemed like hours. I spoke with thousands of mourners in that time, assisting and caring for them during their time of need. I had a tough family life growing up. We lived in one of the roughest estates in Salford, Greater Manchester, and my parents split when I was nine, often having raging fights that my siblings and I witnessed. At the age of 16, my life was at a crossroads. I had a few options – leave Salford and escape the chaos, become part of a gang or stay and try to make my life better. I chose the latter. I decided that I wanted to be a volunteer and build a childcare club. I had a huge argument with my father when I was 16 and ended up leaving the family home with just the clothes on my back. However, I did have a new determination to make my dreams a reality. I spent the next year knocking on doors asking for funding for the centre. I was desperate to make it work and build a better life for other children in Salford so they could feel safe and be inspired.

In 1991, after hearing thousands of ‘no’s’, I had also gathered enough ‘yes’s’ to get set up. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the funding to keep it going and it closed down only a few months after it opened. By the time I was 18, I’d managed to get a job and a space in a homeless hostel called Walter Greenwood Court. I was mixing with all sorts of people, many of whom would be considered dangerous, but I chose to take them all at face value and understand their lives and where they came from, rather than judging them from the outside. This process allowed me to understand more about what drives people and leads them down particular paths in life. This has been absolutely invaluable when it comes to where I am today.

Moving forward I’ve always been one to look at every situation based on the opportunities that it could uncover, rather than focusing too much on the negatives. I have been close to death multiple times, having been diagnosed with a rare form of motor neurone disorder, severe spinal canal stenosis, a paralysed diaphragm and 30% vital lung capacity. My consultants have ruled out surgery as an option as it’s almost certain it would kill me. It was only recently that I decided to use these experiences and circumstances in my professional life to help people who are suffering from a wide range of mental health conditions, including stress, anxiety, depression and grief. Although I’d been doing it informally for most of my life, once I decided on this as a career, there was absolutely no stopping me. Since making the decision, I’ve had the pleasure of helping countless people to deal with their mental health issues, and have qualified as a hypnotherapist. I started focusing almost solely in the nail and beauty industries during 2020 when I saw the impact that Covid-19 was having on my wife. This was yet another unexpected opportunity, which has seen me divert in a direction that I didn’t plan, but for which I am forever grateful.

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NAILSCENE

BRAND

WAT C H

Get to know the names behind companies & brands that are attracting attention across the nail & beauty scene… BODDICE ACCOUNTING Vicki Boddice offers financial clarity, advice and solutions – with a focus on small business owners, health and beauty pros. “I worked in the financial sector for 16 years specialising in insolvency, so I witnessed the errors people would make with their companies,” Vicki explains. “In 2020, like so many, I experienced severe mental health issues and became unable to maintain my job. During this time, I trained as a nail tech, which I found so therapeutic and relaxing, and in April 2021, my friend and I set up a nail bar.” A brand ambassador for Sparkle To Perfection, Vicki has spent many hours chatting to fellow pros and has noticed that many needed accounting support. “This sector has given me so much support and without it, I would not have recovered as far as I have,” Vicki admits. “I wanted to offer my support back and relieve some of the stress other pros were experiencing, so brushed up on my bookkeeping skills and got a licence from the Association of Accounting Technicians in June.” Boddice Accounting was set up just one month later with a focus on bookkeeping and payroll needs, so techs can focus on their passion. Working from her home in Falkirk, Scotland, Vicki prides herself on a personal, clear service and can often be found working for her accounting clients in between nail appointments. “Regardless of the size of a business, a bookkeeper can be so useful,” she comments. “It’s important to me that people feel valued and my goal is to provide every business with a personal, empathetic and efficient service, while also saving them money.” Vicki sets her clients up with an accounting system based on their business needs, and then the client simply sends on receipts and updates on sales. “I send clients monthly reports regarding how the business is doing, and can highlight any potential issues before they happen in many instances,” Vicki adds. “For businesses with employees, I can run full payroll, issue pay slips, calculate holidays and report to HMRC to make sure all PAYE and National Insurance is paid on time. Generally, my packages start at £80 a month and clients can expert a truly personal service from a professional who understands the industry.” www.boddiceaccounting.co.uk

/booksallbalanced

@boddice_accounting

BLOSSOM TREE SOCIAL Sarah Hartley has over 10 years’ experience within the beauty industry and worked her way up to management level at various salons and spas, training therapists before a hand injury forced a change in career. “I took on some reception and admin work but missed the beauty salon vibe,” Sarah admits. “I became interested in social media and promotional ideas so completed an online digital marketing course and o ffered free social media posts and bookkeeping services to a salon to gain some experience.” The salon loved the impact Sarah made across its social media platforms and encouraged her to set up her own business, which she did towards the end of the pandemic. “I know from experience that it takes a lot of hard work for salon owners and therapists to build up a client base. I want to help as many professionals as I can with their business and social media needs,” Sarah continues. “Many offer exceptional treatments but struggle with business and marketing, so I have set up the Blossoming Salon Socials membership so that techs can complete training at their own pace and see their skills bloom.” The membership is suited to all salon owners and self-employed therapists in the hair, beauty, spa, aesthetics and wellbeing sectors. It includes training, resources, masterclasses, guides, a social success plan and more. “I know how busy salon life can be so it supports techs that are not sure when or what to post, want to create clear goals and to build their empire,” explains Sarah. “The monthly membership costs £29 per month and is a small investment with huge rewards.” www.blossomtreesocial.com /blossomtreesocial & /blossomingsalonsocials @blossomtreesocial & @blossomingsalonsocials Blossom Tree Social – Marketing Tips 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NEW REDUCED

PRICE

W NO

£12.50 exc.vat

Find us on stand B20!

per colour

GELOSOPHY - PURE GEL • 121 core colours +

• LED/UV curable

• 4 seasonal collections every year

• Soak-off

• Pure Gel

• 15ml bottle

• Perfect viscosity

• Highest quality brush

• Intensive colours

• Meticulously researched and tested

• Great coverage

• Made in Europe

Upgrade your gel manicure with SOAK OFF STRETCH BASE SOAK OFF STRECTH BASE Your Gelosophy manicure will be smoother than ever with this Soak OffStretch Base Gel with ridge filling properties. This amazing product smooths out any unevenness of the nails and hardens soft, thin nails. It does not only strengthen the nails, but also allows them to grow without cracking. It creates a flawless foundation for an easy, perfect gel polish application. A must-have with the Gelosophy application!

www.snaprofessional.co.uk

Introducing Sheer Simplicity, a new collection of 10 timeless sheer shades that give beautiful, even coverage and are must-haves as part of your core collection. Use one coat for a subtle look or layer for a more opaque finish. Just like our best-selling Marshmallow and Au Naturel, each shade from Sheer Simplicity creates an effortless wash of sheer colour, ideal for French manicures, the perfect nail art base or a classy barely there look.

S H O P N O W AT T H G E L B O T T L E . C O M F O L LO W U S @ T H E _ G E L B O T T L E _ I N C

Find us on stand E10!

muse

gloss

Beautiful even coverage Blanc — Step into the light with this creamy sheer white. A beautiful Blanc canvas, wear it alone or under nail art. Gloss — A pink pop for a classic French Mani. Gloss is the prettiest finishing touch for barely there nails.

blanc

As delicate as chiffon

Silk — Wrap yourself in Silk with this subtle sheer pink that gives nails a delicate touch of colour.

silk

Muse — Find your newest Muse with this inspiring sheer rose-pink shade that suits every skin tone. Truffle — Who needs fine dining when Truffle looks good enough to eat? A sheer tan-brown, it’s a refined shade worthy of five stars.

truffle S H O P N O W AT T H G E L B O T T L E . C O M F O L LO W U S @ T H E _ G E L B O T T L E _ I N C

crème

Essential for your core collection Creme — This soft shade is the Creme de la creme of nudes. A whisper-light brown, it adds a chic sheer finish to nails. Cashmere — A lesson in luxury, Cashmere is a soft, sheer nude as beautifully elegant as the fabric itself. Dune - Transport yourself to Arabian deserts with Dune’s sheer wash of colour, inspired by sunset shadows on the sand.

dune

cashmere

Oyster — Oyster is a light, milky base with a beautiful hint of iridescent pink glitter. Chiffon — As delicate as Chiffon, this pinky nude offers a lustrous, sheer finish that’s oh-so pretty.

oyster

S H O P N O W AT T H G E L B O T T L E . C O M F O L LO W U S @ T H E _ G E L B O T T L E _ I N C

chiffon

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The business of

BEAUTY Nail expert, salon owner, educator & mentor, LIZA SMITH, shares her wisdom & advice to benefit your business

20/21 WINNER

A DECLINE IN NAIL ENHANCEMENTS: IS THIS GOOD OR BAD FOR THE INDUSTRY?

t’s a sad state of affairs that the average price of nail enhancements hasn’t risen in the 30 years that I’ve been doing them. Thirty years ago, the cost of a full set of nails was equivalent to a haircut and colour; around £40. Nail technicians were a skilled bunch and there weren’t many of us around.

The nail industry exploded around 15 years ago. Cheap education followed by cheap products meant cheap prices across the high streets. A full set of nails on average takes 90-minutes, the same as a cut and colour, and the product costs are similar. Today, the average price of a set of nails is still £40 (many charging a lot less), whereas a cut and colour costs around £80. Also, in the cut and colour appointment time, you have 30-minutes to slot another colour in, so you can have two clients on the go simultaneously, as opposed to the ‘one on one’ of nails. Hair prices have increased at the rate you would expect, whereas nail prices have stayed the same.

prices. Some of these nail professionals were and are inspired by the bigger nail salons and improve their knowledge and skills, use better products yet still don’t put up their prices. The hardest thing to do is get the skillset that means you can do an amazing set in 90-minutes consistently. If you charge more, you grow slower, not quickly enough to increase your skill to enable you to increase your prices. Starting your career in nails on your own without the support of a great brand, educator or mentor is extremely tough, so we are seeing many nail professionals dropping nail enhancements and concentrating on natural nails, pedicures and other beauty services. This isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Finding your niche is a good business move. It also means that, eventually, the nail industry will follow the hair industry and most salons and professionals will be competing on experience, not price.

“Starting your career in nails on your own without the support of a great brand, educator or mentor is extremely tough.”

In the last 10 years, the nail industry has been where the hair industry was 30 years ago. Back then, there were lots of hair salons with average services, average prices, not a lot of ongoing education, no branding and no large colour house used. Then the change happened; it was started by the likes of Toni & Guy and other large multiples. They were slick, well educated, well branded, had a great message and served great coffee! This change in direction meant services improved in hair salons, as the industry was inspired. Prices reflected these new and fresh offerings. Hairdressers were competing on experience not price. Then the average salons vanished as a consequence. The only way you can get a cheap cut and colour now is to have a mobile stylist that chooses to compete on price, but there really aren’t many of them. Now, let’s go back to the nail industry. The explosion of cheap education meant there were suddenly lots of newly educated sole traders with little to no overheads using cheap products. They competed on price, as they didn’t have the confidence or knowledge to compete on experience; cheap products, little overheads and little to no ongoing education meant cheap

High street nail bars are still popular, and the ones in my home town turn out good nails. They have to, or the difference between what my salon (and others that I have taught) deliver and theirs would eventually mean that they would lose clients. They offer a fast-paced, low-experience service for a lower price. However, they are experts at up-selling and cross-selling. I don’t want my team to work as hard, at such a speed, but the up-selling and cross-selling skills shown are a great lesson to learn. I think the nail industry is shrinking at the same rate that the hair industry did 30 years ago. There’s a smaller number of highly skilled professionals offering great skills at a relevant price. If you feel you are struggling to make enhancements earn you the right amount of money, you have two choices: 1. Drop them from your menu and concentrate on services that you love, that earn you a better wage. 2. Invest time and money in good education, find a mentor and/or a coach to guide you and increase your prices. This industry will better serve the professionals in it and its clients if less people are offering a higher level of skill and charging properly.

www.thebusinessofsalons.com / www.bodylines.biz /thebusinessofsalonsacademy & /liza.smithnails

72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@thebusinessofsalonsacademy & @lizasmithnails

Find us on stand C6!

SOCIALSCENE

Take a peek behind-the-scenes of Scratch’s online platforms & see what’s piquing the interest of fellow pros…

@_mejzi

S T A T S Blown away

Hairdryer sales have increased by 7.4% in the last year, with the cost of the product increasing by 21.7%, according to research by GfK.

Most loved...

OLD IS THE NEW, NEW!

Love is in the air for this nail design by @_mejzi, which saw over 1,500 nail fans tap the heart on our Insta repost of the look.

The most popular decade for make-up is the 1920s, with over 21,700 Google users searching for ‘1920s makeup’ since the start of 2021, according to research by Note Cosmetics.

CONTOUR CRAZE

GAGA FOR GREGGS

This delectable nail design by @sugar_rush_studios__ paid homage to popular high street bakery chain, Greggs. It amassed over 140 comments when we reposted it on our Insta feed – with a lot of love for the sculpted sausage roll!

The most popular make-up trend in the UK in 2021 is contouring, according to research by Note Cosmetics. The second most searched-for make-up look is smokey eyes – possibly as an effect of wearing face masks.

Most read…

The web story with the biggest number of hits on the Scratch website in the last two months has been the announcement of the Scratch Stars Awards 20/21 winners. Check it out by scanning here

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BUSINESS MATTERS

A whopping 83% of people surveyed by the British Skin Foundation believe that appearance is important to their general wellbeing.

/scratchmag

With one billion people using Instagram every month, the use of this social media site for business is key. Hootsuite found that business profiles are viewed by 200 million Instagram users every day!

@scratchmagazine

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EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

Next level

Learning Scratch chats to renowned nail educator, Anna Lee, about her industry journey, bridging the ethnicity gap & the big news from Creative Academy London EMMA HOBDAY REPORTS

Awards in 2014, when she was presented with the Shooting Star award.

nna dipped her toes into the nail industry in 2004, when she enrolled on a part-time nail course at her local college, for ‘something to do.’ Her pure talent for nails was visible to her tutors from the get-go, and as her passion grew for the craft, she worked her way to achieve CND™ education ambassador at Sweet Squared in 2011.

Later that year, she enrolled a team of SEAsian nail technicians into the Nailympia London Anna Lee competition. “To my knowledge, a team of only SEAsians has never represented the UK in a competition,” says Anna. “I was so proud to finally be able to send the important message that SEAsians are just as capable as everyone else, and “I love that Sweet Squared is a family-owned business, and all we deserved to be in the competition. The fact that one of my team customers are treated with love and respect, as the Sweet Squared members achieved first place that year was just the icing on the cake!” slogan reveals,” smiles Anna. The company has helped Anna grow both personally and professionally. “I became successful Success kept coming as Anna scooped the Scratch Stars Educator through the opportunities that Sweet Squared opened up for me. of the Year award in 2015 and the Scratch Stars Services to the It has provided me with endless support, which is rare for such a Nail Industry accolade in 2018. Her joy lies in educating, and she big business to do for its employees. I have learnt so much.” loves being part of her students’ journeys from the start of their career. “Seeing a student fresh-faced in the industry and watching Anna is also an education ambassador for the LashUs and Light them work their way up, collecting awards, thriving and enjoying Elegance brands in the Sweet Squared portfolio, and in 2013 she their life is the highlight of my job,” Anna smiles. “For example, one opened Creative Academy London, providing training for these year in the Scratch Stars Awards, there was one category in which brands for students in and around the London area. all five finalists were my students. It was my proudest moment.” “My academy provides high-quality education to students, and also aims to help the South East Asian (SEAsian) nail community to improve its standards,” Anna reveals. With this in mind, the multiaward-winning educator chose a Chinese-style pagoda building from which to base her academy, hoping it would provide comfort and familiarity for SEAsian students who arrive to learn. Eliminating prejudice and discrimination against the SEAsian nail community is crucial to Anna. “When I entered the industry, I noticed that there was a separation between SEAsian nail techs and nonSEAsian nail techs. As a Chinese woman and coming from the same ethnic background, I thought it was very important for me to try and bridge that gap – and I have continued to do so in the last 10 years.” Anna was rewarded for her efforts at the Scratch Stars 76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Learning curves The talented teacher believes that nail education has vastly improved since she took her first steps in the industry. “I have noticed in recent years how many companies have dedicated time and effort into improving their education programmes and this excites me,” Anna smiles. “We should support and recognise good education and educators.” Lockdown forced a number of companies and educators to move their nail courses online, with Sweet Squared creating a new platform for education. It provides theory education online through in-depth literature and tests. After the students pass the theory aspect, they can then learn the practical elements which are taught in person in the classroom. “For educators, it is more work, but also more rewarding to know we are now able to capture a larger target audience through online learning,” Anna comments. “Personally, I am excited at the prospect of the nail industry developing its approach to the current climate, and I look forward to being a part of increasing the accessibility of nail courses.” The dedicated educator has some wise words of advice for anyone looking to learn in the nail sector. “Firstly, it is important to

EDUCATIONNAVIGATION

Anna Lee with her Scratch Star Award for Services to the Nail Industry 2018

check how reputable a company is and where it is positioned within the industry. The company’s ethics and morals should align with yours,” she advises. “Similarly, researching the educator goes a long way. Simply reading through reviews and testimonials will give you more faith in your educator and help you see if they are right for you. Another thing to check is that all products you use are of high-quality and approved standard.”

Stepping up Anna’s quest for high standards was rewarded earlier this year, as Creative Academy London became an ITEC approved centre. ITEC, which provides internationally recognised qualifications in 39 countries, has interwoven its qualifications with CND™ and Light Elegance courses available from Creative Academy London. “Students attending the ITEC courses will be able to gain and be awarded certificates from CND™ and Light Elegance, receive full kits with CND™ and Light Elegance products, and also achieve an ITEC international award,” Anna reveals. The two courses currently available are: 1. Level 2 certificate in Manicure & Pedicure – for those wishing to learn natural nails. Courses include CND Shellac™ Beginners Course, CND™ Spa Manicure Class, CND™ Spa Pedicure Class. 2. Level 3 Diploma in Nail Technology – for those wishing to learn all systems including enhancements. Course include CND™ Liquid & Powder Beginners Course, Light Elegance Conversion Course, CND™ Spa Manicure Class, CND™ Spa Pedicure Class, CND™ Perfect French Class. “Furthermore, students who have completed several CND™ courses with me previously are now able to use those units towards the ITEC qualification,” she continues. “This will then reflect on the price and the time, meaning it is more convenient and affordable for my students to gain the ITEC qualification solely through my

academy.” This means that the education Anna provides is now recognised in a number of countries. She feels that councils are requesting more nationally and internationally recognised qualifications for opening salons, and so she couldn’t be happier about partnering with ITEC. “I feel that this is the best step forward for me and my students,” she smiles. Georgette Bukenya has been studying with Creative Academy London since 2017. “Anna is a humble, wonderful teacher – patient, but firm. Her passion for helping others to accomplish their goals is admirable, and I am privileged to have her as my tutor,” she comments. “Anna loves everyone and Georgette Bukenya doesn’t hold back on sharing her wealth of knowledge. I’m sure I’m not the only one who can testify Anna’s integrity, love and passion for teaching – she really is simply the best!” Creative Academy London T: 0208 208 2668 www.creativeacademylondon.co.uk /CreativeAcademyLondon @CNDLondon @annaleecnd SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST COLUMNIST

Elevate your nail artistry, social media, business skills & more with tips from Clawgasmic co-founder, CHANTELLE VERMONT…

ABOUT CHANTELLE VERMONT (CHAN) Chan has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and ran her own nail studio for seven years before launching Clawgasmic with her marketeer partner, Jouvan Johnson. With a passion for nail art, Chan helps fellow techs to improve their skills, grow their business and gain confidence through the Clawgasmic community. The talented tech has completed six seasons at London Fashion Week and has grown a vast social media following owing to her dedication to uplifting fellow pros in the industry. For a full nail art video tutorial of Chan’s design and to gain access to over 210 other tutorials, check out the Clawgasmic Nail Network: www.clawgasmic.com /clawgasmic @clawgasmic

et’s talk autumnal trends. I’m sure you’ve already considered some autumnal hues to add to your nail colour collection, but I want to inspire you with some fun colour combinations and design ideas with some of my all-time favourite shades. One trend that is here to stay and I’m so excited to see flooding our social media feeds again is the tortoiseshell style. I first saw the tortoiseshell look on @beautyworksbyamy’s Instagram account and I was mesmerised. Amy is incredible. I’ve played around with different techniques and products and just love how effective the finished ‘tortie’ look is. It affords such varied looks! You can create a structured tortie with defined shapes, add pops of tortie within a design, create a tortie French and so much more. On this page you’ll see a few tortie creations for inspiration, and the full tutorials for these looks are available via the Clawgasmic Nail Network. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours in your tortie designs. Use cooler tones, warmer shades and blooming gel to get a smudged-style background. Layer polishes to create depth, add some sparkle and even consider bright pops of colour. Leopard print is also set to return to our feeds and I’m so here for it! Leopard French tips, coloured leopard prints, matte leopard, high gloss leopard…go wild with animal print looks! I love getting nail inspiration from fashion and after some internet research, I found

80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

that a popular transitional shade is lilac. I know lilac is usually associated with spring and summer, but it is actually the perfect complement to coffee colours and darker tones and I’m predicting that lilac knitwear will be popular this season. Lilac is gorgeous with tortie as I’ve shown in this month’s tutorial. Consider adding the shade as a cuff, or as dots, stripes or even a French tip. Every year without fail I reach for plum nail shades, delicious chocolate browns, copper and orange tones and deep ruby reds. These colours will never ever let you down; they’re autumn classics and you’ll use them year after year. Pinotage 10 from Bio Sculpture Gel is one of my favourite plum colours and CND Shellac™ in Decadence will always be a firm fave for a ruby red. I also love working with Magpie Beauty’s Maggie Mae, a gorgeous chocolate brown with a slight shimmer and Brandy Snap, a dreamy burnt orange. If adding chrome, I use Magpie Beauty’s Elizabeth; it’s a stunning gold that looks great when teamed with chocolate brown, deep green, teal blue and toffee colours. You can’t go wrong with rose gold tones, too. Stock up on foils, chromes, flexi tapes and stickers as rose gold will complement any shade and I’ve yet to find a skin tone it doesn’t look incredible on! I can’t wait to see what you create.

Love always, Chan x

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

STEP-BY-STEP: TRANSITIONAL TORTIES If you’re not quite ready to commit to autumn/winter shades but still want to create an on-trend nail look, consider these transitional torties with a dash of lilac. How cute is this colour combo?

Step 1 Apply your chosen gel polish base coat and cure. Next, apply a sheer pink hue, cure and paint on half a French tip using a jelly yellow shade. Do not cure. Step 2 Use a striping brush and a jelly brown gel polish hue to apply some random shapes on top of the jelly yellow. Cure.

Step 3 Apply some more brown shapes using the same shade to overlap the shapes in Step 2. Cure. Step 4 The brown shapes will look raised for now. Paint the jelly brown shade over the existing pattern and finish the other half of the French tip using the same shade. This will help level out the design and create a warmer tortie tone. Cure.

Step 5 Apply some black spots onto the tortie half of the French-style tip. On the other half, apply a lilac gel polish shade. Cure. Encapsulate with a clear builder gel shade and refine carefully if you need to. Complete with a top coat and cure.

TECH TALK

I have so much admiration for Jasmin aka @basecoatstories. Her nail art work is flawless and the attention to detail and transitions in her Reels blow my mind. To top it off, she is just lovely and I couldn’t wait to interview her for this month’s column. Thank you for inspiring me Jasmin. How did your journey into the nail industry begin? I still have a hard time seeing myself as part of the industry as I only do my own nails at home after finishing work at my day job. I’ve always loved painting my nails and pushing my limits creatively. For years, I worked in retail environments, where I was required to wear store-brand polishes and keep nails short. However, quickly after that chapter ended I started to experiment with nail polish shades. When I went to Japan at the end of 2019, I discovered the coolest nail art accessories in 100-yen stores, and my obsession has grown ever since. I started my Instagram account in May 2020 because I wanted to share my nail art designs with people who are just as passionate as me. Never did I expect to discover the most wholesome community on the internet and to be welcomed so warmly into it. With the Instagram growth came business opportunities, and that’s probably when I realised that, yes, I guess I actually am part of the nail industry.

What are your favourite looks to create and what inspires you? I think I get most excited about creating looks with an innovative element. Whenever I can put a twist on a familiar technique, use an unexpected household tool or experiment with new ideas, that’s when I enjoy nail art the most. I’m inspired by everything I see and hear. Other artists always inspire me, but also fashion, music, the decades, the seasons... at times, it’s also a certain product or colour that inspires me to develop a look around it that will complement it nicely. What advice would you give to nail artists new to the industry? Have fun and don’t be afraid to break design or colour rules. If you want to improve your work, practice as much as you can and use comparison as a tool of analysis and as a basis for troubleshooting. By that, I mean, figure out what you personally like and dislike in your own work and in the work of other artists. This can help you focus on what you want to continue doing and what you want to change. It is an ongoing process and remember: progress isn’t linear. What are your top tips for taking good nail photos? 1. Find natural light. Even on a dark day, I prefer natural light to artificial light. 2. Relax your hand and unclench your claw. 3. Experiment with different backgrounds and sleeves. The colours of your surroundings have such an impact on what skin and nails look like in photos. Take your time and play!

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 81

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…

Emily Yafai Nail Artist

Location: Doncaster

Acrylic enthusiast, Emily Yafai, was working in the nail industry for a decade before she took a three-year career break in 2018 to spend time with her children. On stepping back into the nail realm, she sought a setup away from home to separate her home and work life. A location within a business park in the heart of Doncaster became available and within weeks, Emily set up her nail space, which opened in June. “I felt earlier this year that it was time for me to find my feet again doing what I love,” Emily reveals. “I found my base and didn’t want to miss an opportunity to grow. I have wanted my own space for a very long time and I’m happy working alone, offering clients a focused experience.” Emily’s décor features neutral tones, offset by touches of gold to create a decadent yet relaxed atmosphere. “I’ve worked hard to create a space that is homely, professional and personal,” Emily shares. “I wanted my working space to be minimal, so I try to keep it decluttered. Everything has its place! “ /emilyyafai.nailartist.3

@emilyyafai_nailartist

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

SWAK Nails Location: Glasgow After working in Edinburgh for four years, Jen Seales sought a change of scenery and moved to Glasgow at the start of 2021. The nail artisan, who was a Scratch Stars finalist in the Gel Polish Stylist of the Year category 20/21, then set up her home nail studio. “My nail setup is based within a classic Glaswegian tenement, with very high ceilings and ornate cornicing,” Jen explains. “The room has a large sash window which lets in lots of light, and I had a herringbone floor fitted, so the room feels very bright and spacious. I chose a warm terracotta colour for the lower half of the walls, with white at the top to keep the room bright, paired with light-coloured accessories, plants and rattan textures.” Jen’s décor choices were intended to create a clean, professional look, while also being on-trend. “Although it’s a very bright room which is great for working, I think the warmth from the natural materials and colours of the accessories and furniture relaxes clients,” she enthuses. “My favourite accessories are the plants; they help make the space feel fresh and relaxing.” www.swaknails.com

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/swaknails

@swaknails

Find us on stand E20!

SOLO BEAUTY WORKINGTON, CUMBRIA There’s nothing more rewarding than helping to achieve the vision and dreams of a successful business. Working with Amelia Wilson Interiors on the Solo Beauty project gave us the opportunity to showcase some of our ﬁnest furniture. Owner Kerry Hayston chose the REM Dream Pedispas, Florence Nail Bars and Futura Seating for her stunning Workington Beauty Salon.

T: 01282 619 977 E: SALES@REM.CO.UK W: WWW.REM.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

g n i l y t s

SEASONAL

Show off autumnal hues & mix up nail art styles with design ideas from fellow techs…

Pebble patterns

Created using shades from the Artistic Colour Gloss Breakout Beauty collection, available via www.louellabelle.co.uk

The wavy French By Sadie Jordan, The Gel Bottle nail expert, www.thegelbottle.com

Step 1 Apply a coat of TGB’s Builder in a Bottle in Dolly to the nails as a base and cure. Step 2 Paint a wavy shape at the tip of each nail using TGB in Peach Daiquiri. Neaten the wave using the TGB Detail Brush. Cure. Step 3 Use TGB in Orange Princess to paint a wave on top of the previous wave, leaving a gap of Peach Daiquiri visible. Neaten with the TGB Detail Brush and cure. Step 4 Apply TGB Rave On to the edge of the nail, following the same wave as in steps 2 and 3 and ensuring the previous shades are still visible. Neaten and cure. Step 5 Apply Extreme Shine Top Coat to finish and cure.

84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Step 1 After applying and flash curing Artistic Bonding Gel, apply a coat of Artistic Colour Gloss in Outside The Lines to the nail. Be sure to cap the free edge, then cure for 30 seconds in the LED Cure Box. Repeat for full coverage. Apply Glossing Gel to the entire nail and cap the free edge. Cure for 30 seconds, then cleanse the nail using Artistic Nail Surface Cleanser. Step 2 Use a nail art brush and Artistic Colour Gloss in Go Your Own Way to create the pattern shown diagonally towards the tip of the nail. Do not cure. Step 3 Repeat step 2, gradually working towards the cuticle area first using Artistic Colour Gloss in Gone Rogue, then Outside The Lines. Do not cure. Step 4 Sprinkle Artistic Perfect Dip Clear Powder on top of the uncured gel, then cure for 30 seconds in the LED Cure Box. Remove excess dust, then finish the look by massaging Revive Cuticle Oil into the skin surrounding the nail plate.

Orange ombré

By Toni Lambert, Nailchemy ambassador, www.nailchemy.co.uk

Step 1 Apply Nailchemy Gel Polish in Papapa and Saltstone to the nail. Step 2 Blend the shades using an ombré brush to create an ombré effect on the nail. Cure. Step 3 Apply Velvet Matte Top Coat and cure. Create a triangular shape on the nail using Papaya and Saltstone, using Saltstone over the orange section of the ombré and Papaya at the tip. Blend them in the middle using a brush. Do not cure. Step 4 Sprinkle Nailchemy Glitter in Libra onto the uncured triangle shape and cure. Step 5 Dust off the excess glitter to finish.

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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

BEAUTY IN

s r e b Num

Keep on top of need-to-know business news & heed accounting advice from beauty industry specialist, RIA-JAINE LINCOLN

10 TOP TIPS FOR ORGANISING YOUR BUSINESS FINANCES ABOUT RIA-JAINE Ria-Jaine is an accounts expert with personal taxation as her specialist area and the beauty industry her primary focus. A qualified nail tech and owner of The Beauty Accountant, Ria worked in the beauty industry on a part-time basis but noticed that many people in the sector were missing vital business knowledge. Many did not know about the UK income tax system and obligations imposed by HMRC and so Ria now uses her specialist knowledge, experience and skills to offer support and guidance on setting up and maintaining a compliant business. After completing her AET teaching qualification, Ria created accredited tax and accounting workshops for the beauty industry to help individuals get the best from all areas of their business while managing their books and tax obligations.

his year has been such a whirlwind and it is quite surreal getting back to business while also trying to have a life. It is great to see the industry bustling again but are you so busy that you can’t think about anything else? Some of the easiest business outgoings to manage and plan for are tax payments. This is because the deadlines are known well in advance and a quick review of your sales and profit levels will give you a good idea about how much you should be putting aside and when to start saving. Here are some simple steps to ensure that you stay on track for the rest of the year, despite the distractions of freedom. September works well as the children are back to school and there is something quite motivating about the start of a new academic year.

Review the key dates for your business and mark these in your diary, such as the tax return deadline, final accounts deadline, company year end, PAYE payment deadlines, VAT deadlines and confirmation statement deadlines. If you use an accountant, ask them for

your key dates if you are unsure, although it is the responsibility of the business owner to also keep track of these important deadlines. If you struggle to get things sorted at your current year end, there is the option to change accounting periods to suit. Speak to your accountant to see if this is something that would be helpful for you.

Once you know the key dates, look at your diary and organise time to take care of each deadline. The amount of time you set aside will depend on the standard of your bookkeeping and the length of time it generally takes you to work through your accounts. This will vary for each individual business owner.

Set up direct debits with HMRC for the regular taxes that you pay such as VAT and PAYE for employers. That way, you won’t risk being late making payments and you even get a few days extra to pay when paying via direct debit.

Keep a file that lists useful numbers and bank details such as Gov Gateway login, UTR number, company number and authentication code (very important for company accounts) and PAYE reference numbers if you are an employer,

“Don’t panic if you are feeling slightly overwhelmed with everything right now, businesses have been through so much so it is normal to feel a little wobbly.” 86 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST VAT number and registration date. This list is not exhaustive but is an important one to start with. You will need these reference numbers when it comes to dealing with HMRC, checking your tax position, making payments or submissions and for general queries. If you use an accountant, ask for a useful information sheet that lists everything for you in one place. Remember – it is the business owner’s responsibility to keep the copies of business records and to be able to access these with ease as needed.

Set up a robust bookkeeping process and use the technology available such as Quickbooks and DEXT, formally known as Receiptbank. We offer this software to all clients at The Beauty Accountant because it makes the bookkeeping so much easier to manage and review.

Be proactive with your bookkeeping and accounts. Not only is it good practice to have information available for the next SEISS grant for sole traders, but this should be practiced every tax year. it will help you to get into a good routine to prepare and submit tax filings in good time to plan for tax payments or accelerate any tax refund.

Research or seek guidance on some of the changes since Covid-19 began, such as the super deduction and the extended loss relief that is now available for business owners until April 2023. If you are not sure if any of this is relevant to your business, get in touch or speak with your accountant to ensure that you are making the most of tax reliefs that are available to you. All the information is available via the government website. Familiarise yourself with your Gov Gateway account and make sure that you have registered for all the online taxes that are relevant to your business so you can review your tax position in real time. You need to add each tax that you are signed up for. If you have a personal Gov Gateway account, you may need to sign up for a Business Gov Gateway to access some of the online tax accounts.

Be aware of the upcoming changes in corporation tax for Limited companies. HMRC guidance affecting business owners states from 1 April 2023, the Corporation Tax main rate will be increased to 25% applying to profits over £250,000. In addition to this, a small profits rate (SPR) will also be introduced for companies with profits of £50,000 or less so that they will continue to pay Corporation Tax at 19%.

“If you use an accountant, ask for a useful information sheet that lists everything for you in one place. Remember – it is the business owner’s responsibility to keep the copies of business records and to be able to access these with ease as needed.” Companies with profits between £50,000 and £250,000 will pay tax at the main rate reduced by a marginal relief providing a gradual increase in the effective Corporation Tax rate. If you have profits over £50,000 or associated companies, then book some time with your accountant to see how these changes may affect you and plan ahead. An associated company is where one company has control of the other or both companies are under the control of the same person or group of persons.

bury your head in the sand, so speak with other business owners or reach out and call HMRC If you are worried or confused. HMRC and Companies House are both there to help business owners as well as accountants. We also have some great tips and free guides that are shared over @thebeautyaccountant_uk on Instagram. www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk E: info@riajaineaccounts.co.uk /riajaineaccounts

Don’t panic if you are feeling slightly overwhelmed with everything right now, businesses have been through so much so it is normal to feel a little wobbly. When feeling overwhelmed with money and taxes the last thing you should do is

@ria_jaine_accountingforbeauty @thebeautyaccountant_uk Join my Facebook group: Salon and beauty therapist UK tax group

Friendly disclaimer: The information contained in this article is for guidance and information purposes only. It should not be relied upon as full and complete accounting, tax or legal advice. For specific advice relevant to your own situation please speak to Ria-Jaine MAAT or another professional directly. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 87

BUSINESSMATTERS

Building your

base

She’s progressed from a nail setup in her bedroom to owning a bustling salon business. Now, Alicia Clough unveils The Client Hunter to help fellow salon owners thrive, attract & retain clientele LILLY DELMAGE REPORTS

re you on the lookout for clients and struggling to fill your appointment books – particularly post-lockdown? Alicia Clough, owner of Derby’s Lunula Nail & Beauty, has garnered her experience in the industry to launch The Client Hunter, a venture to support business growth and client retention.

“I set foot in the beauty world at the age of 14, working every Saturday in a busy salon environment,” Alicia explains. “It was there that I felt such a buzz from helping and supporting others. After dabbling in a variety of business ventures and undertaking a nail course, I opened Lunula Nails & Beauty in my former bedroom at my parents’ house in May 2014.” Alicia saw her client base grow rapidly in the summer that followed and sought to expand her skillset further, enrolling part-time at a beauty college. “In between lessons and at lunchtime, I could be found with my phone in one hand and diary in the other, taking client bookings and posting on social media. I was branded ‘The Client Hunter’ by my classmates and tutors – and the name stuck,” Alicia smiles. “I was creating an online presence and attracting a huge amount of interest in what I was doing.” In the years that followed, Alicia got married and set up a mini salon in her new marital home, before moving to a unit inside a business centre. It was there that she began to grow her team and then take on the unit next door, and seven years later she owns a vast salon space with a team of nine beauty pros. She credits her varied work setups with shaping her as a person and business owner. “I have never had a shop front, and the salon units are hidden away, so all clients have heard about Lunula via word of mouth or through its online presence,” Alicia explains. “I know how to covert social media posts into paying clients and without realising, I have been teaching my team members how to grow their online presence and become successful. I thought, if I can teach it to them, I can teach others, so I launched The Client Hunter in July 2021 so I could share the art of client hunting!” The Client Hunter offers the ‘1-1 Online Presence Overhaul’ for business owners in which Alicia affirms that she can truly get to 88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

know a business, its goals and understand what areas require improvement. “Whether you’re an online novice or seeking validation on your online presence, this option is tailored to your individual needs,” shares Alicia. “It is a completely adaptable, personalised approach – suitable for a business at any stage – with results tailored to each company.”

What’s included? • An in-depth chat via Zoom • A personalised report evaluating your current online presence, with suggested improvements • A personalised plan on how to attract the right clients for your business via online means • Hands-on training, learning how to create varied content and set up systems to help progress your business • One month of 1-1 support while changes are implemented In addition, Alicia offers a number of free resources via her website with general social media tips and hints, and is planning to host virtual group events. “At the start of my nail career, I would have loved to have learned business tips and tricks from someone with experience in order to help me to progress quickly and attract clients,” Alicia reveals. “Many techs get taught how to create great nails or perform treatments – but not how to run a business, and without knowing how to market such skills, the business won’t grow. “I can help techs create their dream business and get an amazing income for the services that they offer. Passion, consistency and persistence equals success – and I’ve made all the mistakes so no one else has to!” If this is of interest, a free 15-minute consultation can be booked to discuss what approach is right for your business by emailing alicia@theclienthunter.co.uk. www.theclienthunter.co.uk /TheClientHunter @theclienthunter

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

BEAUTY WITH A

conscience The rise in conscious consumerism has encouraged many beauty businesses to adopt sustainable, eco-friendly practices. ALEX FOX explores salons working with both the people & planet in mind… The call for a more eco and planet-friendly salon environment is gaining traction and getting louder. People are waking up every day to the idea that even the smallest things we implement in the home or workplace can make a difference to the health of our planet. Already, we bring Bags For Life to the supermarket, we recycle and compartmentalise the waste in our homes, we choose paper over plastic, plant butterfly and bee-friendly seeds in overgrown areas of our gardens, and turn lights off when we leave a room. We even have planet-friendly options for dealing with monthly menstruation. Every little helps and so many members of the beauty sector are following suit where possible and altering practice to better serve the planet and its clients. Scratch takes a look at what some salons are doing to reduce their carbon footprint...

‘

Kristal’s Beaute Box, Rothwell, UK Kristal’s Beautè Box, a vegan and eco-friendly health and wellness beauty therapy salon, has been operating for five years in the rural market town of Rothwell in Northamptonshire. “My business offers more than beauty treatments,” comments owner, Kristal Smith. “I’m on my own health and wellness journey and I hope to inspire my clients, followers and fellow nail techs. “I’ve changed up my business as a direct result of the Covid-19 crisis,” Kristal remarks. “I stepped out of my comfort zone during the first lockdown to support my clients with an alternative service entailing regular videos, during which I shared advice to help support their mental health and mindset.” This new direction fertilised the creation of Kristal’s eco-friendly health and wellness Beautè Box. Claiming nature to have been her healer during trying times, Kristal took time during the lockdowns to focus on making her salon as green and eco-friendly as possible in order to become part of a sustainable community. “I believe if we want to continue to see the beauty of the world we live in, we must act now to protect it,” says Kristal. “Small changes to improve our health and wellness are easily implemented, such as installing LED lights in the salon and using 100% renewable energy. I also switched to using reusable and biodegradable disposables including mascara wands, bamboo cotton buds and applicators, reusable bamboo and hemp face pads and face masks, biodegradable bin bags, gloves, aprons, recycled couch roll and charcoal air fresheners. “I enjoy sourcing eco-friendly, sustainable salon essentials and building relationships with suppliers that have the same ethos. I stock a retail range of plastic-free, plant-based, chemical-free, vegan, eco-friendly and organic products to help support my clients’ overall health and wellness. I also stock the Happy Newspaper and confidence cards to help lift spirits. We need to teach that looks aren’t everything; that personality, values, principles, skills and confidence are the things that help one to progress and develop.” #greenisthenewpink /kristalsbeautebox

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@kristalsbeauteboxrothwell

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Honestly Ombré, Swindon, UK

20/21 WINNER

This salon scooped the Scratch Star Award for Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year 20/21, with judges admiring its sustainability practices and overall ethos. Beautifully presented and reflecting the essence of an eco-friendly salon space, Honestly Ombré’s owner, Jess Wallbridge, tells Scratch: “Honestly Ombré came to life from a desire to provide ethical beauty treatments and services that were accessible and effortless for the consumer. We are firmly against animal testing and exploitation, and from this also grew our desire to provide ethical and zero waste beauty and wellness treatments. “Honestly Ombré is vegan-founded, meaning it offers an 100% vegan experience, and our main aim is to show a kinder side to the beauty industry for animals, for the environment and for humans. We do this by offering ethical options without compromising quality. The company is built on its ethics, and so the ecological impact for us has always been a top priority.” Jess continues, “We try to create as little waste as possible by using eco alternatives and reusables wherever we can. The beauty industry produces more than 120 billion units of packaging globally per year, which is a huge figure. Only 9% of all plastic waste ever produced has been recycled, with approximately 12% of plastic waste being incinerated and the remaining 79% ending up in landfill, dumps or the natural environment. “The time is now to make some positive changes, whether that is reducing the plastic packaging beauty products come in, or the microplastic ingredients that contribute to the increasing plastic pollution problem we face today. At Honestly Ombré we seek to use natural beauty products and avoid plastic, particularly single-use wherever possible; one essential criteria for all products is that they are both vegan and cruelty-free. Our massage beds are synthetic leather, we use biodegradable non-latex gloves, vegetable-based hand sanitisers, reusable masks, recycled toilet paper, bamboo cleaning cloths, recyclable paper cups, paper bags and eco teabags. Our business cards are made from recycled t-shirts, our tote bags are made from salvaged and recycled plastic bottles, we use soy wax candles and even our nail tables are waxed with a vegetable wax rather than beeswax! We’re also ambassadors of the Animal Justice Project to end animal cruelty and slavery. “To help our clients make planet positive changes, we also sell a vast range of products in our retail store including bamboo cotton buds and cotton face pads, reusable shopping bags, shampoo bars and bath salts in glass jars. Since opening, Honestly Ombré has saved thousands of cotton pads and gel foils from landfill, by making two simple switches to reusable options. It’s an ever-evolving way of business, and the beauty of running a start-up is that you have the power to make those changes; so we should embrace that control. No-one will ever be perfect, but a small business can still have a big impact.” To put into closer perspective the salon’s daily rituals to deliver its ecofocused philosophy, Jess reveals, “We work with a waste management company to recycle absolutely everything we can including any shrink wrap or single-use plastic that products are packaged in, and also includes paper towel, paper cups, cans and foil. We use refillable products and bottles where possible, to prevent purchasing plastic each time such as acetone, alcohol wipes, hand soap, hand gel etc. this means buying in slightly larger quantities, which often works out cheaper. We then just fill up the existing dispensers. “If we can be doing something better for the planet, we try our best to incorporate those changes. Small changes add up to a big impact. Our salon motto is ‘beware of the plastics’ to remind us of the mission we’re on. We aim to create an earth-positive reflective experience that stays with our clients long after leaving. No action is ever too small, and we believe in a greener future for the beauty industry! What we stand for is what we stand on.” www.honestlyombre.com

/honestlyombre

@honestlyombre

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SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Chao Nail + Bar, Nashville, USA This wellness-inspired, eco-friendly nail bar offers innovative, health-conscious services. Located in the heart of Nashville, Tennessee, the salon uniquely combines luxury with health and wellness to provide a personalised experience. “The team here is committed to quality services and experience for all clients,” comments a spokesperson for the nail bar. “Therapists work in an eco-friendly atmosphere that delights the senses and brings joy to the body, mind and spirit. Clients enjoy free guided meditation, organic, gluten-free, vegan polishes and product lines. There’s a VIP area for groups or for private events and the salon is also engineered with the most advanced and powerful ventilation system as per International Mechanical Code requirements. This is designed to protect the breathing zone of both manicurists and their clients. We also deliver the Million Dollar Pedicure with 24k series gold scrub, mask, serum and Champagne.” www.chaonailbar.com

/chaonailbar

@chaonailbar

SuperNatural Nails, Sheffield, UK

Former graphic designer and illustrator, Lucy Allen, trained as a nail tech three years ago and opened SuperNatural Nails to address concerns she was having regarding safety, ethics, sustainability and cruelty. “I provide a highly professional service in a unique private studio space, tucked away in the Kelham Island area of Sheffield.” Lucy says. “The salon is run as ethically and sustainably as possible, while maintaining the highest standards of hygiene. The salon operates on an appointment-only basis to ensure that clients are given prescriptive, one-on-one care in a relaxed, non-judgmental and friendly environment. “The visual style of the salon is definitely unique, but I think the thing that sets SuperNatural Nails apart is that it is a fully vegan nail art studio,” Lucy continues. “I wanted to open an ethically run and inclusive nail studio, which meant investing in top quality brands that were suitable for vegans. “It can still be difficult to achieve a fully vegan nail service, whether that’s due to a kolinsky brush used to apply acrylic or create nail art, or animal-derived ingredients in skincare products. Being an openly vegan salon means vegan clients don’t have to ask if a product is suitable for them. We make a point of talking to clients about the products we use and why, discussing any concerns or reservations clients may have and why our services take longer than they might be used to. It helps put clients at ease and reassures them that we know what we’re doing!” www.supernaturalnails.co.uk /supernaturalnails 92 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@supernaturalnails

THE GREEN SALON COLLECTIVE

The Green Salon Collective (proudly partnered with brands including OPI, Wella, L’Oreal and Aveda) was founded by three environmental experts, hairdressers and eco campaigners. It has quickly amassed support from ‘Green Libertines’, largely from the hair industry. Its vision is to help hair and beauty salons to become more ethical and sustainable environments for not just the business, but for the staff and salon guests. Its recycling programmes – together with education and accreditation programmes – enable salons and other businesses in the hair and beauty industry to become true, ethical, sustainable businesses that turn the waste in bins to meaningful wins. For example, it ensures that disposable salon towels are composted at specialist industrial facilities and that plastic waste can be transformed into new products for the hair and beauty industry. What’s more, The Green Salon Collective (GSC) prevents PPE from becoming litter or a problem for marine wildlife by burning it to generate electricity. Salons need to sign up to the GSC and choose which waste streams are most relevant, before buying the appropriate starter kit. Bins are provided to collection chosen waste streams and when full, collections can be scheduled. For more information and to sign up, visit www.greensaloncollective.com

POWERGEL YOUR POWER! THE POWER OF MAGNETIC!

20% OFF PowerGel products in September! *Discount automatically applied online.

Discover the strength of Magnetic PowerGel!

A Gel that feels like Acrylics but without the time pressure because it cures like gel in LED or UV! With PowerGel you can create every nail shape you desire, from a natural nail overlay to the most extreme shape, everything is easier than ever before. Easy to pinch, strong and stable colors, you will be amazed. PowerGel is available in 7 different shades. PowerGel Clear is crystal clear, PowerGel Pink is a milky pink shade that compliments the natural nail perfectly. PowerGel White is a radiant white and will cure perfectly even if you apply it thicker. PowerGel Cover is a nail plate extender suitable for all natural nails and PowerGel Nude is a semi-transparent nude color, great as a base color for nail art and super easy to use when you prefer the one ball technique. Last but not least; 2 stunning sparkling colors, available in white & pink. PowerGel is suitable for every type of natural nail, from flexible to very hard nails, and gives a perfect result every single time.

Prepare the natural nail as usual and remove the shine with a 240 grit file, shorten the natural nail if needed. Clean the nail with Prep & Wipe (135021) and apply the Stiletto form (177008). Use Gelpolish Bond (130010) for perfect adhesion.

Take a small amount PowerGel Clear (104200) with your spatula and place it on the form. Create the base shape on the nail form with the Rhinestone Triangle Brush (176086). Wet your brush with a small amount of alcohol to prevent sticking of PowerGel.

Place PowerGel Nude (104203) on the nail and sculpt. Cure the nail 2 minutes in the UVlamp or 1,5 minute in the Twinlight. If so desired you can remove the sticky layer after curing with Prep & Wipe (135021).

If needed: file the nail bed with a 180 grit Hygienic file. Remove dust particles and clean with Prep & Wipe.

Place with a Spatula PowerGel White (104204) on the free edge and sculpt. Cure the nail 2 minutes in the UVlamp or 1,5 minute in the Twinlight. Remove the sticky layer after curing with Prep & Wipe (135021).

Remove the form and Seal the nail with a Top shape the nail with a 180 Gel of your choice. grit Hygienic file. Clean with Prep & Wipe.

www.magneticnails.uk

The end result!

TECHTALK

How Instagram & TikTok have grown my nail business Maci Blanche, of Maci Blanche Nails in Gravesend, Kent, reveals how to capitalise on Instagram & TikTok to boost your business… It’s 2021, and competition on the nail scene is rife. I began my nail business in July 2020 and was watching everyone around me grow their platforms at an incredible rate, wondering why it wasn’t happening for me. Were they so much better than me? Was my nail art not current enough? Why am I not waking up to thousands of followers every day? As soon as I began using social media to its full potential, I saw a stark change. Growing your business in 2021 is heavily supported by social media. If I am looking for a new beauty salon and I am recommended somewhere, my first question is: What’s the salon’s Instagram handle? I’ll have a look and within the first 10 seconds of scrolling I have decided if I’m going to make an appointment or not.

Instagram Instagram matters; from your profile picture to your bio and most crucially your feed. Keep your posts consistent and draw people in. The first thing people see when they come to my page is colour, personality and a feed you want to scroll through. I started posting short and quirky videos as Reels most days in order to engage my audience. I considered the high profile nail techs on Instagram and adapted their techniques, and that’s when my account started taking off. You have to look at what does well and what people clearly want to see from your feed.

TikTok

It doesn’t matter if you have been in the business for 30 years or 30 days; introduce yourself to, and I stress... TikTok. An app for kids, funny videos and dance routines? Not at all! As businesses, we have never been given the opportunity to reach millions (yes, I said millions) of people overnight. The day I started utilising TikTok for my business is the day my following shot up. In one year I have reached 26,000 thousand followers on TikTok and 6,600 followers on Instagram and growing!

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@maciblanchenails

So how do you begin? The best advice I can give you is to research your field, whether it’s nails, make-up, lashes or brows, and watch the most successful or viral videos. All you have to do is search for ‘nail art’, ‘brow lamination’ and so on. The top videos are the most viral. Watch them and then watch some more. What they are doing is working and people are liking it! Turn those videos into your own, use their sounds, recreate their trends – as long as you give credit where credit is due. Be unique and think outside of the box, as your business videos can also be humorous and fun. My first viral video that reached 1.6 million views was my dad trying to navigate driving his car with nail extensions. People loved it! But... it was also controversial, as some people disliked the idea of a man with nail enhancements. Nevertheless, it generated views and did wonders for my business. Since then I have created nail hauls, nail art tutorials, nail hacks and relatable business videos. Some do well and others get no attention but if you don’t put it out there it will never happen. Today’s world is no longer just ‘word of mouth’; we are moving in another direction. Never let your age, how good you think you are or how long you’ve been in the business sway you from social media. It’s for now, for everybody and the day you start using it is the day you will see growth.

TECHTALK

MINUTES WITH…

Nikol Nikolova

Get to know the London-based tech who scooped the Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of 20/21 WINNER the Year award Tell us about your journey into the 20/21… nail sector… I’ve done my own nails since I was little. My mum owned a salon and I was so inspired by the nail technician that rented a space there, however I was made to believe that there was no money in the nail business. I proceeded to graduate and move into the corporate world. A year later, I realised it wasn’t for me and that I wanted more flexibility in my working life. I decided to develop my hobby into a career and gave myself a year to see what could come out of it. Fast forward three years, I have proven to myself and everyone around me that being a nail tech doesn’t have to be a minimum wage job and can be a serious career path.

I was excited to be announced as a finalist and took the challenge very seriously. I knew that the competition would be tough and it made it even more interesting and motivated me to be better. Winning shows that this is not just a job but a passion for me and I want to keep growing and achieving big things. It allows me to attract the right audience who will appreciate my work.

How did it feel to win? How would your friends describe you? My closest friends know me as a competitive person. They say I am a very high achiever and a bit of a perfectionist. When a person first meets me, I am very shy but if we connect well, I quickly drop my guard.

What happens on an average working day? I’m not a morning person, so my working day starts at 11am. This allows me to skip the traffic and get to the client’s location faster. I usually visit up to three addresses per day. Most of my clients book in with friends or for a mani-pedi, so I’m with them for a few hours. I enjoy having an hour-long break between clients to relax, eat lunch and listen to podcasts. I’m usually back at home by 11pm. I work with mobile clients two or three days a week and during the other work days, I film or edit nail tutorials.

The rush of adrenaline was huge when my name was announced at the Scratch Stars Party. I’m still smiling! Some of my clients have been with me from the first day of my career and they are genuinely happy to see me flourish. I have seen them share my posts with their friends and be proud to call me their nail artist.

What did you think about the party? This was my first time at a Scratch Stars Party and I met so many lovely nail artists and made great connections. Working mobile can be lonely so gatherings like this are a great way to meet like-minded people.

What are your favourite nail styles to create? Why did you enter the Awards Scratch Stars Awards?

Medium oval nails with character nail art. I love when clients let me freestyle!

From the beginning of my career, I noted the Scratch Stars Awards as the biggest nail industry awards in the UK and I set myself the longterm goal of winning. Winning is a huge accomplishment and I knew it would be a great thing for my business. Being a finalist in the Scratch Stars Awards shows clients that they are in safe hands.

5 FUN FACTS

1. I can’t look at my phone or a book while travelling otherwise 2. 3. 4. 5.

I get vertigo. I can’t walk without looking at my feet or I might trip. I’m 5’1” and my whole shoe can fit inside my partner’s shoe. When I was a child, I wanted to be a jeweller. My partner has now got into the habit of commenting on everyone’s nail styles!

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What are your career highlights? I won Nailympia’s Division 1 Soak Off Gel Polish Manicure category less than a year after completing my first gel polish course, and this proved to me that I can accomplish anything I set my heart on. Also, I had a student who sent me her work after completing an online nail art course with me. This changed my whole career trajectory and made me fall in love with education. www.triplensalon.co.uk

/triplensalon

@triplensalon

UV GEL + POWDER SYSTEM THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS UV Hybrid Nail System is sold as a Duo of Acrylic Strengthening Powder + UV Gel Available in: Pink, White, Clear, Opaque Nude and Opaque Pink + Glitz in Pink and Clear.

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HEALTHMATTERS

STOP THE

n i a r st

Sitting at your nail desk shouldn’t be a pain – so don’t let your health & comfort take a back seat. EMMA HOBDAY explores ways to alleviate & prevent hand & wrist aches through working

Nail techs are renowned for being caring, kind and compassionate; trying to fit in as many clients as possible, which means that client care is often prioritised over tech health and comfort. But what would happen if you let the pain take over so much that you were unable to work? It’s important to take the time to prevent and help cure any problems that may arise at the nail desk, and there are some common grievances shared amongst pros.

Samantha Sweet

Samantha Sweet, co-founder of Sweet Squared, shares that repetitive strain injury and carpal tunnel syndrome may always be likely for techs due to the nature of the job. “Filing is the biggest culprit of carpal tunnel syndrome, as well as regular shaking of product bottles,” she reveals. “E-files can help if used correctly, and I’d consider using an imix, which take the strain out of shaking so many bottles.”

Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 E-file £349 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

HANDY PRODUCT

The imix alleviates the stress and strain on the hands and wrists as it mixes gel polish and lacquer formulas for perfect application, so you don’t have to. It cleverly uses magnetic technology to mix the entire formula and mixes until the last drop, so no product is wasted.

HANDY PRODUCT

The Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 E-file is available with training and can help reduce the pressure on the hands made through manual filing of enhancements. It’s designed to complete a wide range of services and accommodate left handed nail pros.

imix £54.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

HEALTHMATTERS Pure Nails educator, Nicole Dowling, has been working as a nail technician for 16 years and has suffered with repetitive strain injury. “After a long week of back-to-back clients, my hands cramp up, especially my thumb, which is extremely painful,” Nicole reveals. “This causes a lot of stress and strain, not only for me, but also for my business.

The Wrist-Assist is distributed by www.katiebarnesacademy.com & www.Luvnailz.com

Nicole Dowling

“After visiting my GP, I was advised to stop for five minutes between clients and give my hands a rest and a small massage, which helps to reduce the pain and stop my hands from cramping.” Charlie Russell, lead therapist at The Massage Company, agrees that massage is a great tool for easing pain caused from repetitive strain injuries and carpal tunnel syndrome. “Massage help to relax the muscle tissue which can lead to decreased nerve compression, increased joint space and increased range of Charlie Russell motion, which in can reduce pain and improve muscular function,” says Charlie. Recent insight from The Massage Company has also shown a 30% increase in nail and beauty professionals using massage to maintain a balanced and pain-free body. Charlie adds: “The bonus is that massage also helps to reduce stress by lowering cortisol (the stress hormone) and helps to raise energy levels, so it’s great to keep the mind healthy as well as the body.” As for Nicole, she has some wise words of advice for other nail techs: “We all worry about running behind if we stop and take a break, but we should put our health first! My clients are so understanding, especially when they can see my hands cramping up.” Katie Barnes, award-winning tech and product distributor, agrees that nail techs should always take a break from repetitive activity, although she acknowledges that techs don’t always have the time for a break. “However, they must at least change position frequently and not hold any position for long periods of time,” she suggests.

HANDY PRODUCT

The Wrist-Assist was created by nail tech Robin Stopper. Following a car accident in 1998, Robin found the constant hunching, lifting, twisting and turning of her clients’ arms, hands and fingers painful and tiring and was diagnosed with fibromyalgia. “I realised I needed to change my position while doing nails to eliminate the repetitive strain I was experiencing and needed a tool to help me with this, so I designed the Wrist-Assist. “It supports the client’s wrist and eliminates the weight of their arm. It also rolls so I could bring hem closer to me with ease and not affect my posture.”

Essentially, Marian Newman BEM, chair of The Federation of Nail Professionals, wants you to think about your health later down the line. “When you start out as a nail professional, the last thing on your mind is your physical health – it wasn’t Marian Newman on my mind over 30 years ago,” she says. “However, we do need to realise this job has a big impact on how the body will behave in years to come.” The takeaway? Carry out massages and stretches, move around, change position, and above all, be kind to yourself and recognise when you need a break. Small steps now will prevent potentially long periods off work in the long run. GB Wrist Rests are available in a variety of colour ways and sizes via www.gbwristrests.com

Katie adds that while you’re doing small activities like making a drink, or washing your hands, you can quickly carry out some stretches, such as flexing, bending and rotating your hands and fingers. Katie Barnes

What’s more, she reveals that using a new file on each client will ease muscle strain and save time, as this will reduce unnecessary pressure being used to achieve the same result from a file that has been worn down. “Techs often work with very little or incorrect support under the client’s wrist,” Katie adds. “When working with no support, it can often seem that they’re holding a client’s hand with a gentle and relaxed hold, but the reality is that the wrists and hands are being repeatedly strained. Over time, the added weight, combined with the repetitive motion, takes its toll on the muscles and joints and can cause long-term problems, such as arthritis, RSI and carpel tunnel syndrome.”

Antony Buckley

When you’re back at the nail desk, European director of education & dean of education for Nail Alliance, Antony Buckley, has a top tip: “Hold your manicure tools firmly, but don’t grip tightly or for too long, as this will put unnecessary strain on your muscles.”

HANDY PRODUCT

Sheffield sole trader, Gary Brooker, created a wrist rest for his wife, Lauren, a nail technician, to help ease the stiffness she was suffering in her shoulder, upper back and neck through daily tekking. The GB Wrist Rests are constructed with heavy duty, wipe-clean vinyl, two inches of memory foam for comfort and suckered feet at the end of solid chrome metal legs to grip onto any textured surface. They have been manufactured to help improve posture for both clients and nail technicians and are large enough to fit most nail lamps underneath in order to save space. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 99

NAILDESIGNS

Corn and a scarecrow combine with autumnal hues of yellow, orange and green in this topical design by @nailsteria.

Pull out the wellies and get ready to harvest; this delicate design by @irotoiro.nail showcases veggies, gloves and gardening trowels.

How do you like these apples? Autumn’s cosiest shades are paired with hand painted fruit courtesy of @nailsbykatiedutra.

Fingernails in

Focus

Have some fun this autumn & dabble with food fashions on fingernails to commemorate Harvest Festival. CALLIE ILEY rounds up designs to inspire…

Veg out and take some inspo from this This design by Joanna Figasinska has us imagining running through fields of wheat – delicious design courtesy of @the_secretspa, featuring a chilli, aubergine, carrot and more. with beautifully painted enhancements.

There’s nothing scary about these oh-so pretty nail designs by @naturallyvoguenails, featuring plaid and a scarecrow.

We’re cuckoo about these corn nails; a throwback design by nail stylist and last issue’s cover star, Kirsty Meakin.

What’s on your plate? Beetroots, carrots and peas make the cut in this vegetable themed nail design by @cutenailstudio.

Autumn calls for rich, jewel tones and we love this nail style by Jess Lunn, created using Halo Gel Polish hues.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 100 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

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Whether diving into a pool on holiday or stuck in a storm on your way home from work, give the appearance of shiny water droplets on nails with this refreshing 3D technique. We’ve papped a few techs on Instagram embracing the trend, which was also shown off by Kylie Jenner on her feed in June.

CHLOE RANDALL & LILLY DELMAGE surf the ‘net to uncover the hottest nail topics & tales on social media sites & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

How long can you go?

.com/jule Instagram

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ndnailedit

104 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Need an extra hand?

Well, @ilysmnails on TikTok has made that dream a reality. The tech’s creation, detailing a mini hand on her fingernail, has gone viral and even includes its own nail extensions and jewellery. We’ve got to hand it to her… this one’s a masterpiece!

.com/realtri Instagram

Instagra

TikTok.com/ilysmnails

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stan13

icosnailz

Instagram

.com/claws

bykyn

sgotnails

Nail artist, @julesgotnails, has clawed her way to over 230,000 followers on TikTok owing to her intriguing video creations. One video, which saw the artist successfully complete regular tasks with her five-inch long nails, has received over 18 million views!

SLAM DUNK

Pro basketballer, Tristan Thompson, was papped painting the nails of daughter, True, on his Instastory. Hopefully her mum, nail art enthusiast Khloe Kardashian, approves of the pink nail look!

SCRATCHMEDIA

Kisses for this nail shape

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lassnails

The lipstick nail shape is making a revival – changing up the classic square or almond with a slanted lipstick-style tip.

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Instagram

LILY LOVES NAILS

Session nail stylist, Michelle Class, tended to the nails of singer, Lily Allen using Lucy Pastorelli Tools and Bio Sculpture Gel products.

CREATIVITY CAPTURED Dallas-based photographer, Eddie Don Ross, captured the beauty of nail art in photography exhibition, KLAWZ, which aims to show how ‘nail art can go anywhere and do anything in any different scenario.’ He sought to highlight nail techs as artists, as well as beauty workers and hopes to highlight five or six nail designs in a KLAWZ 2 exhibition.

hes /mollymas TikTok.com

Instagram.com/

eddiedonross

DID YOU KNOW? New Zealand singer-songwriter, Lorde, has released a single titled ‘Stoned at the Nail Salon.’

Peaceful painting

@mollymashes on TikTok has hopped onto the ASMR trend through the method of clay-cracking, which involves painting layers of nail polish onto clay and leaving it to dry overnight. Her 1.5 million followers watch the satisfying, therapeutic sounds as she breaks through the polish… a cracking way to wind down before bed!

FUN FACT

According to research by RY, Marilyn Monroe takes the crown for the most influential celebrity icon of the past. The 1950’s Hollywood actress has received over 191,000 annual searches for her beauty inspiration! SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 105

Fantastic INDUSTRYNEWS

Fox My career journey

As ALEX FOX puts down her pen as editor-in-chief of Scratch after 18 years, reflect on her career story, favourite moments & next steps

After failing my A Levels, I got a job in sales with The Cambridge Evening News, then left after a year to be an au pair in New York. I was just 20 years old and came home after eight months to take a job chasing advertising copy for music magazines. The publisher of these magazines launched the first UK nail magazine, Nails Plus, eight years later.

Highlights At Pano ram

agazine , 1994 Desperate to be a journalist, I applied for a job as editorial assistant at one of the publisher’s other magazines; Panorama,, a photography title. I was given a chance and learned quickly. Editor, Eileen Martin, taught me so much, and when she left I was promoted to editor. I found myself out of a job when the magazine was sold but my next move saw me take a job at weekly consumer title, Amateur Photographer.

h h publis h Scratc Alex wit e ir sh y rb e Scott D

er,

I left the job after four and a half years on having my first child, Lara, and by chance, Nails Plus was seeking an editorial assistant. I got the job and helped launch Salon Plus, Spa Plus and Salon Ireland magazines. I sadly left the position but was rewarded soon after when Scott Derbyshire called me and asked me to unite with him and launch a magazine. This was when we conceived Scratch.

DID YOU KNOW…? Scratch was named by my good friend Nick Mellor, a marketing executive, in a nightclub in Cambridge. I asked him, ‘ if you were launching a nail magazine, what would you call it?’ The rest is history!

5 FUN FACTS

1. I resonate with the teachings of Buddha and have found the Buddhism way of life easier to navigate and tolerate. This has helped with my cycles of depression and given me a new joy, focus and greater mindset. 2. I love to kayak if I can and discovered my love for it when living in Qatar. 3. I’m obsessed with The Wombles and have two original albums from my childhood that I still listen and dance to. 4. I decided to draw mandalas with Sharpies during lockdown. I found it really comforting & relaxing. 5. I am the eldest of seven children.

106 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The Scratc h team

I’m proud to have had the autonomy to guide Scratch through its formative years and to give it its personality, voice and style. I’m so happy to have worked on it with amazing people over the years, not least my dear friends Helena Biggs and Jess Wilkie. Thanks to Ian Archbold and Scott Derbyshire, I have travelled around the world meeting amazing nail professionals and running Nailympia arenas, working on the first consumer nail magazine, Gloss,, and launching in the Middle East. Meeting Tom Holcomb has stayed with me since I interviewed him and Antony Buckley for my first feature on male nail techs back in 1998. I remember thinking, ‘If this is mb what nail people are like – I think m Holco Alex & To I’m going to stay stay.’

Marian Alex with Marsh n & Sue Newma

My nails

As a writer, I wear my nails short, square and with a navy blue overlay, but I fantasise of a time when I can wear them longer, with a point and eccentric nail art.

“An article on a nail tech, their salon, brand or nail designs can have such a positive and powerful effect. I’ve seen people lacking in confidence later soar in their career after being supported, guided, heard and heralded.”

Alex & Sc ratch Mid dle East

Next steps

I’ve moved into the realms of freelance to change things up and widen my nail scope. I’m volunteering for the Federation of Nail Professionals, organising The Nail Safari Beast & Brush event, working with Alisha Rimando in the USA and continuing to head up Nailympia Competitions, which remains a passion of mine. @alexfoxcambridge

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at Olympia Beauty, London 3-4 October & receive all the goodies featured on this page! *Contents may vary subject to availability Goods are non-exchangeable.

Register for your FREE ticket to Olympia Beauty via www.olympiabeauty.co.uk Scratch subscription offer only valid to attendees that purchase an annual print subscription at the Olympia Beauty event 2021. Goodies included are: • Mollon Pro Regenerating Rose Oil • Halo by Pure Nails Desk Mat • All That Jazz Bee Bar • Mundo Sanitizing Hand Gel • The Unicorn's Den Scratch Crystal Mix • NaileDecal Nail Art Decals • Lecenté Bespoke Scratch Glitter • Glitterbels by Annabel Nail File • 10% off at Edunails.com •Magis Foil Nail Wraps (20pk) • E.Mi Treat Us Trio • Glitterama Glitter or Sanitising Spray • Flirties Glitter Gift Bag • Miss Lucy UK Decals • 20% off at HotPatch.com • BeautyPro Hand & Foot Renewal Set • MegaMix Nail Glitter • Peacci Nail Lacquer • Halo Elite Nail Files (3pk)• INK London Glitter Duo • Meraki Nail File • 20% off at thenailboxuk.co.uk • INK Fit-Tips Trial Pack • Digital Scratch subscription

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Collection exclusive to Georgie Smedley Group, available in Gelish & Morgan Taylor.

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