Scratch Magazine November 2023

WI NTER 2023

MAGICAL BOTANY COLLECTION Grounded in nature, yet glamorously festive.

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

Available in both CND™ SHELLAC™ and VINYLUX™ Long Wear Polish.

This palette features six charming shades inspired by crystallised leaves, lush evergreens and iridescent gemstones.

AVAILABLE NOW

SHOP NEW IN

sweetsquared.com 03 3 3 0 0 0 70 0 0

Twenty years of... ®

Issue 247 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Copywriter Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1E The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ

T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327

I

m the 17th just returned fro write this having tition, where on arena compe Nailympia Lond gathered at s trie from 34 coun nail professionals pete across n centre to com the ExCel exhibitio magnificent s. It was a truly nine categorie rticipants pa , eativity stunned event, where cr maraderie, ca t ea gr t t talent – bu showed not jus ccess. was lifted by su and the industry ts, th er e wa s a m pe titi on pr es en co e liv a at th s os we re su re ad m ire d th at pr De sp ite th e pr es d jud ge s, an d I an rs m pe titi on s tito Co pe . m th bu zz am on g co ed ba ck fo r gr ow fe e ac br em wh y d ski lls an m en t, wh ich is ke en to te st th eir es sio na l de ve lop of pr of r rt fe pa of nt d po rta Co m pe titi on s, an ar e su ch an im wi th Na ily m pi a t er oo rtn Sh h pa tc to ra d Sc ra tc h is pr ou ds , Th e Gr ea t Sc to a ra tc h Sta rs Aw ar es Sc m e th co ar via ye ies is th op po rtu nit tis t co nt es ts. As lud ing rld ’s Sta r Na il Ar an d co ns ide r inc 24 20 Ou t an d Th e Wo r fo als go ur yo t m in th is ou fro ab se ing oo a nu m be r to ch clo se , sta rt th ink e ar e er Th . ne fits . list yo ur ta sk ve lop m en ta l be co m pe titi on s on , bu t all wi th de its er m n ow eir th th ind us try , ea ch wi s should be phy, competition me a medal or tro ho ss and ke ta ne ak to g we illin of While it’s thr ting any areas exercise; highligh often sit on the I ng r. rni ree lea ca a ur as yo d viewe ove forward in hs to help you m d learn so much, identifying strengt ator or judge, an str ini m ad an nail as petitions, of up-and-coming other side of com lar to the names pu po . try are un es co iqu hn y from country to too: from what tec el. making headwa nn are rso cts pe du its d pro an with the industry stylists, and which content, to move ’s tch ra Sc e ap This helps sh brace it urge you to em on advertised, I titi pe m red that co su a as e re Clients will be Next time you se th your followers. wi use each y n rne ca u jou yo ur d yo an and share refine your skills, d an ne ho to ps you are taking ste of your passion. luable promotion experience as va ! tition roster soon me on a compe na ur yo e se to I hope Until next month,

Do you need to renew or update your Scratch subscription?

Call +44 (0) 1580 883 844

Contributors Alex Fox, Carter Rogers, Katy Pottle, Maddi Cook, Clare Woodcock, Mino Vo, Hari Hatfield Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer The Magazine Printing Company Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd

Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk

COVER CREDITS Model, nail artist, make-up artist & hair stylist: Anita Chahal Anita Chahal (Creative Designer Nails) @chahal8240

Images courtesy of Entity Beauty Shades shown are I’m On The Right Track, My Kind Of Town, Sidewalk Runway, Just One More Stop, It’s A Taxi Affair and Step Out from the Entity City Limits collection.

Available via www.beautybossherquarters.co.uk

Photographer: Russ Tierney www.splashpointphoto.co.uk /splashpointphoto @splashpointphoto

www.scratchmagazine.co.uk www.nailympia.com The publisher of Scratch magazine has taken all reasonable measures to ensure the information detailed in Scratch is correct at the time of going to print, and while every care is taken to avoid inaccuracies, the publisher does not accept responsibility for any errors or omissions from any information within this or previous editions. © 2023 SEED PUBLISHING LTD

Follow Scratch: #ShowScratch

/scratchmag

@scratchmagazine

@scratchmagazine

@scratch.magazine

@Scratch-Magazine

CATCH THE LIGHT

DON’T CARAT ALL

OF QUARTZ YOU WOULD

I’M ON SAPPHIRE

ETCHED IN STONE

PRECIOUS IN PLATINUM

SCAN HERE to learn about NEW and exciting products!

0333 000 2100 +44 (0) 20 8238 6300 info@louellabelle.co.uk www.louellabelle.co.uk

facebook.com/louellabelle

pinterest.co.uk/louellabelleuk

@louella_belle

@louella_belle

linkedin.com/company/louella-belle

Contents NOVEMBER 2023

FEATURES 24 28 36 42 50 54 66 78 82

Nails That Rock

Nail artist, Anita Chahal, shares her career story & the creative process behind this month’s cover nails .

7 Fashion Week Nail Trends

Discover the styles that made an impact on spring/summer 2024 runways across the globe

Sleighing The Retail Game

Image courtesy of Christopher Allen (@chrisalllen)

18

Pull in extra profit this festive season with a selection of beauty gifting options & expert selling tips

Triumph With Team OPI

Plan your future professional development with a helping hand from the Scratch Stars award-winning OPI education team

Getting To Grips With E-files & Bits

Explore elements of the handy E-file: from torque to motors, RPM & the uses for different bits

Is It Vegan?

Salon owners reveal why they choose vegan-friendly products, while Scratch shares how to identify them

24

How To Master Character Nail Art

Get creative & paint fun portraits with a guide to mastering character nail artistry

Nailympia London 2023: Art Of Class

Revealed: the winners of the online artistic categories in this year’s Nailympia London competition

A Focus On Franchising

64

Read up on how you can benefit from an existing salon business model or expand your brand through franchising

In The Lap Of Luxury

Elevate the mani/pedi experience with product picks & initiatives to aid luxury & support wellbeing

36

REGULARS

54 28

10 20 22 38 48 52 58 60 62 64 72 74 76 88 90

Nail Nation The Hot List The Scratch Scoop Love & Sparkles With Katy P Readers Gallery The Mobile Club How To Boss Your Salon Tech For Techs Tech Spotlight The Halo Effect Training Spotlight Making Moves With Mino Vo Through The Keyhole Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus

Terribly Nice

Limited Edition Naughty N’ Nice Shimmers, Glitters, Metallics, and Crèmes B O OK A COURSE TODAY W I TH OUR AWARD W INNING EDUCAT ION TE AM: OPIEDUCAT IONUK .COM #ASKFOROPI

SHOP NOW

Nail NATION

business

news & views

Townhouse acquires London Grace salons Beauty industry bodies comment on state of sector The latest National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) State of the Industry survey reports that the hair and beauty sector remains stable, with the percentage of businesses making a small or good profit increasingly slightly since the previous survey, in July. Three quarters of hair and beauty businesses surveyed are confident in their survival.

The trend towards increasing prices is stabilising, as is reliance on external support, with 44% of businesses not reliant on continued support. Staffing and recruitment intentions also remain the same, with 63% of businesses surveyed saying that they are unlikely to hire, or definitely won’t.

Meanwhile, the British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) has warned that winter could be detrimental for the beauty industry, due to rising costs and low consumer spending. The majority of BABTAC members (93.58%) reported a considerable increase in rent and utility rates in the past year, with 10% experiencing a 200% increase, 40% a 100% increase and 44% a 50% increase.

The organisation notes that consumers risk their safety if opting for cheaper, unregulated or DIY treatments during the cost of living crisis, and promotes the use of its regulatory checklist, T.I.M.E. www.nhbf.co.uk / www.babtac.com

Scratch Stars award-winning nail salon brand, Townhouse, has acquired London Grace’s 10 acclaimed nail locations across London and Essex.

London Grace was founded in 2015 to offer a social beauty concept; incorporating a nail bar offering services focused on natural nailcare, alongside a cocktail bar and coffee shop in each space.

The salons will undergo refurbishments to align with the Townhouse brand and aesthetic, with the existing teams continuing to work in the locations. London Grace Juanita Huber-Millet founder, Kirsten Hazell, will maintain & Kirsten Hazell the brand’s retail line, which features nail polishes and nailcare products.

“We are thrilled to extend a warm welcome to the London Grace salons, team members and customers as a wonderful addition to the Townhouse family,” comments Juanita Huber-Millet, founder & creative director of Townhouse. “This acquisition marks an exciting new chapter in our journey, perfectly aligned with our founding mission to redefine the nailcare experience.”

London Grace’s Kirsten Hazell adds: “We couldn’t have found a better partner than Townhouse to take care of our amazing team and customers. We are confident that Townhouse shares our vision and values, and this acquisition will give us the opportunity to focus on expanding our product range, reaching a broader audience of nail enthusiasts.” www.townhouse.co.uk

NHBF CHIEF EXECUTIVE STEPS DOWN The National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) has announced that Richard Lambert has stepped down from his role as chief executive of the organisation. He held the role since 2020, and has retired from full-time work to pursue other interests.

“We are grateful for Richard’s hard work at the NHBF and wish him all the best in his future ventures,” comments Amanda Lodge-Stewart, NHBF president.

Richard Lambert During Richard’s time in the role, the NHBF has kept the industry up-to-date with the latest knowledge and statistics, to provide a valuable overview of the UK hair, beauty and barbering sectors.

During the pandemic, in addition to providing support to the industry, the NHBF launched the first State of the Industry survey, which has since been carried out on a quarterly basis. The NHBF now has three years of data to show how businesses coped with periods of lockdowns, closures and restrictions, as well as the cost of living crisis and cost of doing business crisis. At the time of writing, a new chief executive is still to be announced. www.nhbf.co.uk 10 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

business

Nail NATION Gerrard International partners with Laura Kay for PMU training

EU RESTRICTS INTENTIONAL MICROPLASTICS IN COSMETICS On 15 October, the European Commission enforced a ban on the sale of microplastics intentionally added to products, including cosmetics. The change to the EU chemical legislation, REACH, is set to prevent the uncontrolled release of around half a million tonnes of microplastics into the environment.

The ban applied immediately to the sale of cosmetics containing microplastics used for exfoliation (microbeads) and for obtaining a specific texture, fragrance or colour. It is understood that the sale of loose glitters contained within formulas used for body modifications/enhancements on the skin, bath bombs, personal care, hair, make-up and tattoos, falls under the restriction.

The ban will apply after four to 12 years for other cosmetics, depending on the complexity of the product, the need for reformulation and the availability of suitable alternatives. The regulation specifies a transitional period of 12 years for nail products, until a ban on sale or use comes into force.

Products used at nail salons do not release microplastics, or their release can be minimised. Cosmetic glitters used within nail services, such as glitter added into solid mixtures or encapsulated within product, prevent the release of loose glitter particles. commission.europa.eu

´ HBSA Beauty Conference celebrates UK beauty industry On 19 September, the Hairdressing & Beauty Suppliers Association (HBSA) held its annual conference at The Magic Circle, London. The trade association for the beauty industry, which represents members across the sector – from manufacturers to retailers and distributors, brought together UK professionals to share brand success stories and the latest beauty products, services and social marketing and PR techniques.

Industry speakers included Oriele Frank, founder of Elemis; Tracey Stapleton, PR & marketing specialist, and Danny Gray, founder of male cosmetics brand, Warpaint, and mental health platform, JAAQ. A mental health panel session was also held, hosted by Paul Gerrard of Gerrard International and the Happy Paul brand, alongside Paul Smith of JAAQ. It examined the the importance of establishing a Danny Gray mental health policy in the workplace.

“We are thrilled with the success of the HBSA Beauty Conference 2023,” comments Mike Patey, HBSA general manager. “The conference was a great opportunity for beauty professionals from across the UK to come together, learn from each other and celebrate the success of the industry. We look forward to hosting an even bigger and better conference next year.” www.hbsa.co.uk

12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy has announced an educational partnership with Laura Kay London Academy, a renowned name in the world of permanent make-up (PMU) training. Alongside the training collaboration, which will provide PMU training across the UK, Laura Kay London products will be available via Gerrard International.

Founder of Laura Kay London clinic, professional products & academy, Laura Kay, has a personal connection to Gerrard International, having worked at the company for six years over a decade ago.

Samantha Kendrew, head of education at Gerrard International, states: “Our industry is very special – it gives the opportunity to help others look and feel amazing in their skin. We continue Susan Gerrard’s ^ passion to foster talent, nurture drive and encourage enthusiasm by collaborating with Laura Kay.” Laura Kay adds: “I am thrilled to join forces with the Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy. Raising standards is something very close to my heart, having witnessed many botched treatments by untrained or poorly trained practitioners and seeing the distress it can cause, both physically and mentally. I am on a mission to eradicate these practices with education.” www.gerrardinternational.com

Louella Belle adds Puromist brand to portfolio Celeb-approved brand for cleaning the face, body, tools and equipment, Puromist, is now stocked

by Louella Belle. The Puromist formula, which promises to cleanse 99.99% of microbes, including bacteria, fungi, spores and viruses, is available via three products: a 100ml Spray, 250ml Spray and Wipes (30 pack).

Used by celebrities including Rochelle Humes and Frankie Bridge, the natural formula is ideal for retailing, as well as for speedy sanitisation during treatments.

It is pH based and alcohol free, suitable for use on the face, body and all skin types, including sensitive and mature skin. It is also designed to protect and soothe skin, leaving an anti-microbial layer to provide long-lasting protection against bacteria and pollutants that can cause irritation. www.louellabelle.co.uk

pleasure

Nail NATION

Competition organiser, Chloe Randall, with first-place winner, Ania Kesiak.

WINNERS ANNOUNCED IN GREAT SCRATCH SHOOT OUT COMPETITION Forty-three striking entries were received into Scratch’s annual photographic nail competition, The Great Scratch Shoot Out, for 2023. Nail pros worldwide were encouraged to collaborate with a make-up artist, photographer, stylist and hairdresser to create a striking image, to no set theme. Scotland’s Ania Kesiak scooped the winning title and Voter’s Choice accolade with her weather-inspired image and detailed extreme nails. In second place was Sophie Donaldson from Kent, England, with a powerful, red-toned image that was perfectly posed, and Anita Chahal from Wales took third place with shapely green and blue nails that were elevated on a dark background.

The winners were announced on stage at Olympia Beauty on 16 October, and each received a cash prize and certificate, with Ania taking home a trophy.

View all entries into this year’s competition by scanning here

Glitterbels boosts product range with new launches Glitterbels has expanded its range of HEMA-free Gel Polish, introducing 48 shades to the collection. Available in 8ml and 17ml bottles, the colours range from bold pinky-red, J’Adore, to glittering lime green, Kiwi Crush. Seasonal sparkly shades are also available.

In addition, the brand has welcomed cuticle oil in two scents: pineapple and almond. Housed in a pretty pink bottle with a pipette applicator, a 17ml size is available for pros to use at the nail desk, while a 5ml size can be retailed to clients. www.glitterbels.com

Session nail stylist, Cherrie Snow, launches manicurist agency London-based session nailist, Cherrie Snow, has launched SNOW Creatives, an agency that provides manicurists for events such as photo shoots and fashion shows.

“SNOW Creatives was born out of the need for me to be in more than one place at a time. The light bulb moment to launch my own agency came when I had three campaigns that fell on the same day,” reveals Cherrie. “I have been a session manicurist for 10 years, successfully representing myself for the last six, and know what it takes to be an excellent nail professional on set. It’s not just about being skilled at nails, but excelling in building relationships, collaborating with clients and being a valuable team player.”

SNOW Creatives currently represents three nail stylists alongside ´ Uzunovic, who Cherrie: Ami Rai, Jessica Ciesco and Sabina specialise in natural nailcare, classic manicures and freehand nail art using Bio Sculpture products. www.snowcreatives.com

Margaret Dabbs recognised with an OBE in His Majesty’s New Year’s Honours List The founder, MD & CEO of leg, hand, nail and footcare brand, Margaret Dabbs London, was awarded an OBE (Officer of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire) on 26 September at an investiture at Windsor Castle.

The accolade, presented by HRH The Princess Royal, recognises Dabbs’ services to business and podiatry.

“I am very honoured to receive this award and want to thank everyone who has embraced my vision,” she comments. “I am especially grateful to the beauty industry, buyers and press who saw the opportunity with me, and who have supported me throughout this journey. I am also very lucky to be surrounded by such a hard-working and loyal team, who make it all possible.”

Her team comments: “This award is a testimony to Margaret’s vision, talent and ability in business, her hard work and the success and quality of her clinics, products and treatments.” www.margaretdabbs.co.uk

NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Following extensive development, Sweet Squared has re-launched lash lifting and brow lamination range, LASHUS. The range simplifies lifting lashes into two straight-forward steps, providing uplifting, volume-enhancing results. The formula can also be used to enhance brows. www.sweetsquared.com 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Add sparkle to festive nail designs with the OPI Swarovski Kit, which is available for a limited time for £24.95 + VAT. The kit features over 175 crystals, including Clear Crystals (size SS10), Aqua Crystals (size SS9) and Pearl Crystals in Nacre (size SS10). www.opi.com

Social media support company, Blossom Tree Social, has unveiled a series of notebooks for nail and beauty professionals, with positive slogans on each cover. Designed to help pros jot down goals or track achievements, four notebook styles are available, priced at £12.99 inc VAT each. www.blossomtreesocial.com/shop

Gel polish brand, PLA, has launched an oil-based lacquer line, featuring 290 shades to match its gel polish shades. The fast-drying, chipresistant nail lacquer formula should be applied in two coats, finished with PLA Lacquer Top Coat. www.plapro.com

DATES FOR THE DIARY

Nail Order enters gel polish market with 100 shades

5 November - 3 December Christmas Nail Art Workshops with Gemma Dawson

Nail Order, provider of apparel, salon essentials and courses for nail professionals, has added 100 gel polish shades to its brand offering.

Founded by former salon owners, Rebekka and Chris Costello, during lockdown, their goal for Nail Order was to provide high-quality retail items for pros. As popularity grew, the duo created cuticle oils and a full cover tip range, arming them with manufacturing knowledge, which sparked the idea for a gel polish range.

They spent four months finding a factory and formula that met their standards, and from there they created the colours, designed the packaging and tested lamps to ensure compliance. “The gel polish is hypoallergenic, and while we believe that there is a place for chemicals such as HEMA in low quantities in the nail industry, we wanted to ensure that our gel polish could be suitable for as many people as possible,” shares Rebekka. “This is why it is free of IBOA, HEMA, HPMA and DI-HEMA. “The formula is highly pigmented and easy to use, adhering well to the nail plate with no pulling from the free edge. It is also made in the EU and cures in 30 seconds in the Nail Order LED Lumi Lamp.”

Shop the range at www.nailorder.co.uk and scan to re-watch Scratch’s live Instagram discussion with Rebekka Costello, during which she swatches shades from the gel polish range

PROTEIN FORMULA UNVEILS ROBBIE TOMKINS AS BRAND AMBASSADOR Celebrity manicurist, Robbie Tomkins, has been announced as brand ambassador for prescriptive nailcare brand, Protein Formula.

“Robbie’s expertise in all things nails makes him the perfect partner for Protein Formula,” comments Protein Formula brand manager, Jess Theaker. “With prescriptive nailcare for every nail concern, we are more than just a Robbie Tomkins nail treatment brand, so it’s important to work with professionals such as Robbie who understand the importance of nail health when creating a flawless manicure.”

Robbie adds: “Natural nail and skin health has been my passion since I first began my career as a nail artist. Like a building that has stood the test of time, a nail look will only last if built upon a strong foundation.

“Working as a session artist means I regularly work on natural nails, and often get asked: ‘how do I make my nails grow stronger?’. The four prescriptive nail treatments from Protein Formula harness the power of protein and other wonder ingredients such as AHAs and Biotin – and they really work.” www.protein-nails.com

The British Association of Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology (BABTAC) presented 19 trophies at its annual BABTAC & CIBTAC Awards, with Scotland’s The Nail Yard scooping the Specialist Salon of the Year title. The awards were hosted by Caroline Hirons, skincare expert, British Beauty Council ambassador & founder of Beauty Backed Trust. www.babtac.com

World’s Star Nail Artist finalist 2023, Gemma Dawson, will be going live on Instagram every Sunday at 7pm GMT, from 5 November to 3 December, to offer nail art tutorials for the festive season. She’ll be focusing on character nail art, 3D designs and more.

Watch via www.instagram.com/gemma_dawson_nailartist

10 November The Glitter Masterclass Katy Pottle, Scratch columnist & World’s Star Nail Artist champion 2023, will explore various glitter types live on Instagram at 8pm GMT, and teach how to master the art of applying each one.

Watch via www.instagram.com/katyp_nailartist

7 January 2024 Nail Order’s Sunday Service Event Pro product provider, Nail Order, is hosting an event in Birmingham, featuring talks from influential industry figures, workshops and interactive experiences. In the evening, attendees are invited to a party to network and enjoy a performance from Ru Paul’s Drag Race star, Black Peppa.

Tickets are available via www.nailorder.co.uk

22-24 March 2024 Nailympia Germany Showcase your skills and be judged by notable global nail names at Nailympia Germany, hosted within the BEAUTY Düsseldorf trade exhibition.

Register for 11 arena categories by 29 February and seven online categories by 1 February.

Register to enter at www.nailympia.de

Nailympia results revealed across three locations International nail competition, Nailympia, hosted its final events of 2023 in San Antonio, USA, Colombus, USA and London, UK respectively, offering nail professionals from all over the world the chance to compete for medals and top titles. After accumulating points across many of the seven Nailympia events this year, the 1st Americas Cup was awarded to Ireland’s Katarzyna Kruszynska, with the 2nd European Cup presented to Deborah Cocco of Italy, and the 5th Global Cup achieved by Olena Oezman of Germany.

Head to www.nailympia.com to view the results of all competitions and register your interest for 2024.

Education provider and supplier of piercing equipment, Studex UK, has gained training endorsement from the Hair & Beauty Industry Authority (HABIA).

The industry body champions high-quality education, and its endorsement means that both Studex UK‘s ear and nose piercing training programmes are aligned with up-to-date national occupational standards (NOS). www.studexuk.co.uk

The Federation of Nail Professionals hosted the nail competition at industry event, Professional Beauty North in Manchester, 24-25 September, which saw nail pros compete across eight categories.

Scan here to view the results SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15

HM-16518 © 2023 Nail Alliance - North America, Inc.

Gelish® and Morgan Taylor® are filled with cheer because the most festive collection of the season is here! This Holiday/Winter we are welcoming the On My Wish List collection, inspired by all things joyful and bright with a twist of avant-garde flare.

WRAPPED AROUND YOUR FINGER

MODEL IS WEARING: BEFORE MY BERRY EYES

BAD TO THE BOW

REDDY TO JINGLE

GIFT IT YOUR BEST

AVAILABLE AT

www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

BEFORE MY BERRY EYES

A HUNDRED PRESENT YES

COVERSTORY

Nails that

Rock

Be transported back to the era of Mods & Rockers with tales & design insights from this month’s front cover shoot REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

Anita Chahal

W

ith a nail career spanning 23 years, during which she has won multiple awards and received international recognition, Anita Chahal: the creative mindset behind this month’s front cover, admits to being consumed by her love for the craft. “I eat, sleep, breathe and dream nails, and throughout hard times, disappearing into the nail world has been my solace,” she admits. “Nails is not just a job for me; it’s a passion that allows me to be creative, meet new people and share my journey and skills.”

Anita has lived in Scotland, Wales and Spain, and in all destinations, her love for nail styling has remained constant. She has grabbed opportunities to teach, including mentoring students for WorldSkills championships, and judge nail work internationally. But it’s her love for competing that drives her, having scooped awards at Nailympia London and Germany, Professional Beauty Nail Competitions and the UK Hair and Beauty Awards since starting her competition journey in 2016. Most recently, she achieved third place in The Great Scratch Shoot Out photographic nail competition.

“The recognition doesn’t feel real, and I am so grateful. It serves as a reminder to believe in myself and learn fom feedback, so I can come back fighting at the next competition,” says Anita.

“It’s also shown me that extreme nails are my specialty. They motivate me and allow my imagination to run wild. I have even developed my own style, with a love for abstract designs and needle ends,” she continues. “I enjoy that there are no limits 18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

COVERSTORY to creativity with extreme styling; anything goes, as long as the the nails are balanced and elegant in their design.”

The photo shoot for Scratch’s November front cover was carried out in July, inspired

by Anita’s favourite era: the 1950s/’60s, when contrasting British subcultures, the Mods and Rockers, were recognised. “My main inspiration came from the clothes and patterns worn, and the Lambretta scooters driven during this time,” she details. “I tried to capture the era through its fashion, incorporating buttons, studs, floral and checkerboard designs and colour blocking.” The nail artist used NSI’s Attraction liquid & powder system to craft the extreme shapes, and painted them with Nailchemy Artisan Gel Paints and Gel Excellence Gel Polishes from Nail & Beauty Excellence, before adding embellishments.

Alongside the nails shown on our front cover, Anita created mixed media boxed nail art inspired by the same era. She crafted two standout motorcycle nails using L&P acrylic, gel and wire, and added embellishments to tie the two designs together.

“I thoroughly enjoyed working with photographer, Russ Tierney, as he has an eye for a great photo and I appreciate his ideas,” Anita reveals.

“I chose to lead everything else myself and be the model, so that I had control throughout.

However, I did find the nails to be quite heavy, therefore trying to hold my fingers naturally for images was a challenge.

It was all worthwhile though, as seeing the finished photos and my vision come to life was a huge highlight. Having my work on the cover of Scratch, a prestigious nail magazine recognised worldwide, has been a dream of mine for a long time, so I’m still pinching myself! I feel so honoured to be given this opportunity and proud of myself for achieving my dreams.”

Anita’s dreams don’t stop at a Scratch cover, as she shares her goals to further achieve via competition work, build her portfolio of bespoke designs and keep learning so she can offer more one-to-one training. “Helping students to progress and unleash their inner creativity gives me great satisfaction. We should all guide and nurture new and existing nail techs, and can inspire one another to try new things and learn more,” she says. “I look forward to seeing what the future holds; who knows what other opportunities may come my way, but for now I will keep doing what I love: creating extreme nail designs.”

“I tried to capture the era through its fashion, incorporating buttons, studs, floral and checkerboard designs, and colour blocking.”

COVER CREDITS Model, nail artist, make-up artist & hair stylist: Anita Chahal Anita Chahal (Creative Designer Nails) @chahal8240 Photographer: Russ Tierney www.splashpointphoto.co.uk /splashpointphoto @splashpointphoto Russ Tierney

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19

NEWPRODUCTS

Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish On My Wish List Collection £16.99 + VAT each www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk / www.salon-services.com Fill clients with cheer – as six joyful, seasonal shades have been launched by Gelish for the festive season. The elegant gel polish hues offer a modern twist on traditional winter shades, with a mix of metallic, pearl and crème finishes.

Standout colours include Bad To The Bow, an olive shimmer, and Gift It Your Best, an icy blue pearl. The shades are also available in Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer for £5.50 + VAT each.

Mii Colour Confidence Trio Nail Set £11 + VAT/RRP £22 www.gerrardinternational.com An ideal stocking filler or personal gift, attract the attention of clients at the till by retailing the Colour Confidence Trio. There are three trios to choose from, with jewel-toned, seasonal shades in Mii’s vitamin-rich formula.

List THE HOT

Artistic Velvet Magnet Gel Duo £19.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk Create a plush, velvet-like finish on nails with the four Velvet Magnet gel polishes from Artistic Nail Design, available in two limited edition duo packs, each with a dual-ended magnet.

The formula features glistening shimmer and magnetic pigments that react to the magnetic force, allowing for limitless nail art opportunities.

Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients Glitterbels Cuticle Oil & lend a helping hand £9.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Hydrate nails and cuticles at the to your services end of a service with your client’s

INK London Liquid Metal Art Gels £18 inc VAT www.inknails.com Add decadent highlights and details to nail styles with INK London’s Liquid Metal Art Gels in Gold and Silver. Channel the chrome trend with the two hues, which are available as a duo and individually for £10 inc VAT each.

20 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

choice of Almond or Pineapple Glitterbels Cuticle Oil. A 17ml size (pictured) is perfect for the nail desk, and 5ml options are available to retail to clients.

This smaller size is available in an 18pc display box for £35.99 inc VAT, with an RRP of £4-5 per bottle.

The Nail Lab – The French Brush £16 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk Create a crisp, smooth French finish with this handy brush, featuring a curved tip to mirror the shape of a smile line. To use, pick up your product and position the longer part of the brush toward the corner of the French tip. Gently pull towards the free edge, then flip the brush and work from the other side. The French Brush features a silver cap for protection when not in use.

NEWPRODUCTS

CND Shellac™ Magical Botany Collection £89.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com CND™ presents six shades for winter 2023, inspired by seasonal glamour and ‘the enchanting essence of nature’. The Magical Botany collection draws its rich tones from iridescent gemstones, evergreens and crystallised leaves, with shades entitled Midnight Flight, Forevergreen, It’s Getting Golder, Frost Bite, Poison Plum and Scarlet Letter. Hues are available individually (£14.95 + VAT) and in the Vinylux™ formula (£5.95 + VAT each).

Dual Prep Tool £15 + VAT www.rebeccaorme.co.uk This stainless steel tool features a cuticle pusher and slanted, rounded end that can hold a piece of 240-grit file paper. This enables you to file into hard-to-reach areas of the nail for optimum prep. Included with purchase of the tool is a 10-pc sheet of 240-grit file paper.

The GelBottle Inc ProForm Gel – Full Kit £150 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com Craft strong, natural-looking enhancements with TGB’s Hema-free ProForm; file-off hard gel, available in seven neutral shades in a user-friendly tube. The full kit includes all seven ProForm tubes, a Slip & Sculpt Solution, ProSculpt Tool, Dappen Dish, Bond Base and Glow Top. Each ProForm tube creates up to 30 nail sets.

Halo Gel Polish Sparkle Season Collection £5.95 + VAT each www.purenails.co.uk Is your client ready for Magic? Make their nails Dazzle with the six glittering gel polish shades from Halo for the party season. Dressy, Vibes, Magic, Party, Dazzle and Gala exude all the tones of the festive period, and look striking as a one-colour overlay or when used together within a nail art design.

Lecenté AW23 Pigment Powders £3.99 + VAT each www.lecente.com www.sweetsquared.com www.ellisons.co.uk Elevate seasonal nail styles with the four additions to Lecenté’s pigment powder range: Primary Yellow, Black, Primary Red and Primary Blue. Ideal for full coverage looks or incorporating into nail art designs, burnish into the inhibition layer of gel polish and carefully apply top coat to seal, before curing.

The four powders are available as a bundle for £15.96 + VAT.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 21

p o o c s

SCRATCHSOCIAL

THE SCRATCH

Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley

The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms

In the

MAIL...

Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…

Out and ab

out

, py wr ite r, C al lie C hl oe , an d co r, auty ite Be wr l na es ur sio r th e Profes Ne ws & fe at M an ch es te r fo to y wa l r ei tra th m ad e ch es te r C en en t at th e M an North tra de ev ex pl or ed o du en tre . Th e C on ve nt io n C ty br an ds na il an d be au la un ch es fro m m en t of ce d th e an no un an d wi tn es se n wi nn er s. io tit pe Na il C om PB No rth /F NP lts vie w th e re su Sc an he re to

Team Scratc h headed to trade beauty exhibi tion, Olympia Beauty, at Ex Cel London, to offer nail pros an ex citing subscrip tion offer and supp ort leading international nail competit ion, Nailympia. W e enjoyed chatting to re aders, promot ing magazine su bscriptions an d renewals, an d seeking ou t industry laun ches.

The +Maskology Multi Masking Set landed on our desks, and features the Squalene Professional Sheet Mask, Retinol + Vit-C Under Eye Mask, Detoxifying Professional Face Mask and Thermotherapy Eye Mask. What’s more, the package also included the +Serumology Revitalising Serum Duo to help hydrate and gently exfoliate the skin.

Available via wholesalers nationwide.

What we’re wearing...

Helena has embraced autumn’s tortie trend and opted for the style across all 10 nails, courtesy of Rebecca Ellis of Beauty

By Beck, Dartford. The nail pro used The GelBottle Inc hues to create the look and added subtle gold sparkle to finish.

Chloe announ ced the winners of ph otographic nail competit ion, The Gre at Scratch Shoo t Out 2023 at Olympia Be auty. She presented th e top three titles and the recipient of th e Voter’s Choic e Award with cash prizes.

The first-place winner also re ceived a tro phy and large fra med print of their winning entry.

REPLAY

Chloe opted for a mouth-watering chocolate glazed donut mani, by Aimee Louise Searle at Truly Beauty, Tonbridge.

22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

How to correctly price your salon services Scratch columnist & founder of Boss Your Salon, Maddi Cook, unveils the key mistakes hair, beauty and nail pros make in business and how to overcome them, as well as how to reach full profit potential.

Rewatch some of last month’s live interviews!

NEW VEGAN FORMULA**

95% Stronger Nails

*

Strength + colour.

NAIL ENVY, NOW WITH TRI-FLEX TECHNOLOGY™ AND MORE SHADES TO ENVY

BOOK YOUR COURSE TODAY WITH OUR AWARD WINNING EDUCATION TEAM: OPIEDUCATIONUK.COM SHOP NOW

* When used as directed

7 NAIL TRENDS Fashion Week 1

Monochrome

REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS

2

Glass effect

At David Koma’s London Fashion Week show, nails were designed to match the clothes, with styles curated

by Glossify’s head of brand, Joely Frain, using products from the Glossify range.

Models sported ‘90s high school-inspired press-ons on the Edward Crutchley London runway, courtesy of Marie-Louise Coster. She used Light Elegance Gel Paints to prepare nail designs.

In New York, 30 nail looks were created by Sojin Oh, aka Soji Nails, for the PRISCAVera catwalk, including this dark style with glass-like feature nails, reminiscent of lava lamps.

3 Encapsulated feathers featured on claws and clothes at the 16Arlington London show. Lead nail stylist, Sylvie Macmillan, used clear CND PlexigelTM to create the effect.

24 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

3D

Mirroring the bold prints, lace and bows on the Sinead Gorey runway in London, lead nail stylist, Ella Vivii, added miniature bows to lace-look nail bases using CNDTM.

Instagram.com/_e.d.m.a

Instagram.com/sojinails

In Paris, Ama Quashie keyed a number of nail looks for the Vivienne Westwood catwalk, including this white design. Styling took inspiration from the late designer.

At Paris Fashion Week, Dawn Sterling (@nailglam) used Manucurist products to fashion foil, petal and pearl nail styles to match Marni models’ metal, floral outfits and foil lip looks.

Image courtesy of Christopher Allen (@chrisalllen)

Take a peek at the nail trends that stormed the spring/summer 2024 runways

Instagram.com/amaquashie

NAILTRENDS

NAILTRENDS

Instagram.com/brixton_klaws

London fashion brand, SRVC, looked to nails to portray its futuristic values, with Hayley Evans-Smith using Jessica Cosmetics to craft nails with an abstract, pointed edge.

Chet Lo’s showcase, which saw nails led by London-based Brixton Claws using Essie, was dedicated to the POC queer community.

Enhancements featured diagonal tips.

OPI sponsored nail looks for the Edeline Lee London Fashion Week show, headed by Sammy Mac. Tiramisu for Two was the chosen shade for long stiletto press-ons.

7 Instagram.com/julieknailsnyc

Striking shapes

At Paris Fashion Week’s Celine Kwan x CASETiFY showcase, Marie Rosa crafted a variety of playful looks, including silver chrome shapes over a nude base.

Instagram.com/byjuanalvear

6

Instagram.com/hayley.evanssmith

Using products from her brand, Pattie Yankee created elongated nails for the Private Policy New York runway, taking inspiration from the collection’s theme: coral reefs.

Instagram.com/pattieyankee

Nail stylist, Anh Hoang, assisted by Sammy Mac, took inspiration from 2023’s aura nail trend for edgy, pastel stiletto looks. These were shown on the MARRKNULL London Fashion Week catwalk.

Nails were dripping in molten gold on the Prabal Gurung catwalk in New York, matching models’ chrome earrings and shoes. Gina Edwards created the nail designs using KISS Products.

Instagram.com/marie.rosa

US business, Nissa Nailed It, brought grungy ombré vibes to the Palomo Spain show, using Aprés Nail. Nails complemented the brand’s modern take on traditional clothing.

Chrome

Instagram.com/ginaedwards_

Instagram.com/nissanailedit

5

Instagram.com/nailsbysammymac

Instagram.com/nailsbysammymac

4

Ombré & airbrush

Alternative French

Julie Kandalec used CNDTM to fashion French press-ons for the Christian Cowan Paris catwalk. Featured across Fashion Weeks, diamantés and negative space were incorporated.

Trending mermaidcore and unicorncore styles aren’t going anywhere, as shown by The Blonds’ New York show, which saw Juan Alvear use KISS Products to create this ‘Chrome Dipped’ French look.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 25

L E A R N BEF O RE YO U EARN Save 20% on all our Academy courses with promo code SCRATCHNOV23.

C H O OS E YO U R C O U RS E

EARN MORE WITH PROFORM™ Minimum Minimum investment, investment, maximum maximum return return — — up up to to 30 30 sets sets per per tube!* tube!* Our Our kits kits include include everything everything you you need need to to complete complete your your Proform™ Proform™ service service from from start start to to finish. finish. Choose Choose either either our our Starter Starter Kit Kit which which contains contains three three shades shades for for just just £115 £115 excl. excl. VAT, VAT, or or our our Full Full Kit Kit which which contains contains seven seven shades shades for for £150 £150 excl. excl. VAT. VAT. Convert Convert new new and and existing existing customers customers to to the the ultimate, ultimate, durable durable HEMA-Free HEMA-Free extension extension system system and and produce produce perfect perfect nails nails today. today.

SCULPT, SCULPT, BUILD, BUILD, EXTEND EXTEND && REPAIR REPAIR

MANI MANI && PEDI PEDI FRIENDLY FRIENDLY

ODOURLESS ODOURLESS

SSTART TART EARNI EARNING NG

*Based *Based on on recommended recommended average average use. use.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

SLEIGHING THE

RETAIL GAME

Are you & your clients in the festive mood? It’s time to deck your shelves with retail items & enjoy the gift of additional profit this season CALLIE ILEY REPORTS

Let your till bells ring this festive season by embracing the power of retailing and becoming a one-stop shop for both your client’s beauty and shopping needs. Retailing requires no extra time; you can ‘sell’ to clients during their treatment by simply talking about your product offerings or positioning them in view of the nail area.

If each client buys a product this season, you could see your profits soar, setting you up for the new year and beyond.

5 top tips for getting retail-ready

1

Consultation & recommendations

Clients value your professional knowledge and expertise, so talk about your product offerings and offer suggestions based on their needs and ideas.

“Make conversation while using or showcasing the products to clients,” advises Rachel Harrison, Louella Belle educator. “Tell the clients about the benefits of the products and why you love them.”

2

Know your clients

Knowing your clients is important, not only for tailoring recommendations, but to avoid issues with overstock.

“Think about your current clientele and their purchasing habits,” suggests Ruth Atkins, Salon System educator. “How many like to buy, and would they be keen to buy Ruth Atkins more during the festive season?”

“Showcase products on social media, and set up an online store or order form on your website to allow clients to purchase in between appointments.”

28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

3 Consider product placement

Clients can’t purchase items that they don’t know are available, so display them in clear view of the salon window or where they sit for appointments. Catch their eyes – and those of passers-by, by placing products within an attractive, festive-themed display.

“Position new retail products at the front and centre of a display, and make them stand out with strut cards or by popping them on a plinth,” advises Cara Shanks, brand manager at Gerrard International.

Cara Shanks

“Next to the till is always a great place to display retail products, at eye level as clients come through the door or while they are seated for their treatment,” recommends Belinda Price, OPI UK&I education manager. “Keep product Belinda Price shelves full and dust-free, with good stock rotation.”

Glitterbels Almond Oil Cuticle Oil (18pk) £35.99 inc VAT/RRP £4-5 each www.glitterbels.com An ideal stocking filler, place cuticle oils in the reception area or on your nail desk to recommend to clients post-treatment.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

‘ Festive displays & decor Creating a warm and welcoming salon space with festive windows and displays will help enhance the shopping experience for clients browsing your retail offerings, and add a seasonal touch to the salon environment.

“To make my salon retail area more attractive, I change the display once a month so that clients don’t get too familiar with the layout,” comments Rachel Harrison.

“At Christmas, we use baubles and bowls with battery-powered fairy lights to attract attention to products on the retail shelves.”

“I love using fairy lights and ornaments to make my salon feel festive and draw attention to the retail area,” comments Lily Lou Moore, Louella Belle brand ambassador. “I like to make regular changes to my retail display, so that clients can enjoy something new and get excited about the retail items on offer.”

Lily Lou Moore

“Decorating your retail area is a essential at Christmas, Lily Lou Moore shares her Christmas retail setup, complete with festive to enhance the space fairy lights, snow-covered Christmas and bring attention to the trees and wintry snowflakes. products on display,” says Amirah Ibrahim, marketing Amirah Ibrahim executive at piercing provider, Studex UK. “Use Christmas-themed marketing materials, such as posters, twinkling lights, festive decorations and plenty of red, green and gold assets.

“We recommend that retail stands are near the piercing area or front of the salon. Studex’s retail stands offer a variety of earrings and are great ways to encourage clients back into the salon after the piercing healing period, to purchase their post-piercing earrings.”

Studex Tiny Tips 72-piece Retail Display Stand £192 + VAT www.studexuk.com Rachel Harrison

4

“We can only make so much money a day working on clients, depending on which treatments are booked,” says Rachel Harrison.

“Retailing adds to our hourly income, while benefitting clients in prolonging their treatment results and fulfilling their shopping needs.”

Demonstration & conversation

Entice clients with product demonstrations and make use of your knowledge by explaining product benefits and uses. Cara Shanks recommends having testers available for clients to try where appropriate, so they can understand why products are must-haves.

CND™ Xmas Gifting Pillow Box (products not included) £1.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com Purchase a CND™ Pillow Box and fill with your client’s favourite Vinylux™ shades before retailing.

“I use all the products that I retail during treatments, so my clients can try them firsthand,” shares Lily Lou Moore. “I offer a hand and arm massage with Dadi’Lotion at the end of a manicure service and apply Dadi’Oil to cuticles, as I retail both products. This also gives me the opportunity to talk about product benefits and ingredients, which makes for an easier sell.”

Famous Names Dadi’Oil (24pk) £50 + VAT/RRP £5 each www.louellabelle.co.uk Dadi’Oil features more than 20 naturally derived, moisturising ingredients and essential oils to treat weak, brittle nails. It’s available in a retail-friendly 3.75ml size.

5 Use social media to boost sales

“It’s important to leverage your online presence to promote your retail products, especially for mobile techs,” explains Secret Salon Club director & founder, Martin Durrant. “Showcase products on social media, and set up an online store or order form on your website to allow clients to purchase in between appointments.”

“If you aren’t salon-based, create a webpage featuring your retail products, or sell via social media,” agrees Martin Durrant Belinda Price. “Send out regular emails with product news to excite and inspire, and remember to make aftercare recommendations.”

Packaging pointers “Christmas is a great time to go a little bit further when it comes to customer service,” Ruth Atkins shares. “Offering extras, such as complimentary gift wrapping with certain purchases, is a nice touch and gives you an edge over your competitors. Buying gifts in the salon should be a treat, so invest in quality wrapping, gift bags and ribbon, so clients enjoy the buying experience.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29

>>

CHRISTMASRETAIL

Stock up on stocking fillers Offering small yet enticing, affordable stocking fillers is an attractive option for clients doing their shopping this holiday season, providing an easy gift-giving option and encouraging impulsive purchasing.

Mii Lavish Colour Duo Set £9.75 + VAT/RRP £19.50 www.gerrardinternational.com A fun stocking filler for any beauty lover, the colour-coordinating Mii Lavish Colour Duo Set includes a Colour Confidence Nail Polish and Lavish Lip Crème Lip Gloss, with six matching colour combinations available.

Retail tips for mobile techs “For mobile nail professionals, retailing products to clients is a smart business move that can significantly boost income and build customer loyalty. However, doing this effectively requires a well thought-out strategy,” says Martin Durrant. He recommends curating a selection of products with a focus on quality over quantity, with expert product knowledge. He advises demonstrating products during appointments, personalising recommendations, offering retail packages and bundles, and using your online presence for promotion.

“Mobile nail pros can retail effectively without having to carry many products with them. Through brand training, they should learn about products’ unique selling points, ingredients and purposes,” comments Rachel Harrison. “Techs can then talk to clients as they use the products, explaining their benefits and how often they should be used.

“Another way to encourage sales is to create a product brochure with everything you retail, prices, a short description of each product and how to order. This could be printed off or sent to clients electronically with prior permission.”

“Link an online shop to your website, so that clients can purchase from you at any time,” comments Clare Woodcock, Scratch columnist & Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year 2022 & 2023.

Clare Woodcock “Shopify and Square are examples of shops that link to your social media accounts, booking platform and payment system.

“I keep one or two items of each product I sell in my kit bag and during peak buying times, I carry stock in a box in my car. You could also market products directly through WhatsApp, reminding clients to purchase in advance so you can bring stock with you to their next appointment.

“A useful retailing route is to become a brand ambassador, or to set up referral codes with stockists,” Clare continues. “There are many beauty brands that now operate in this way, and this allows you to earn without having to stock product. By referring clients with a unique discount code, you reap rewards when they buy.”

30 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

‘ Retail Starter Kit Peacci £POA/RRP £34 www.thegelbottle.com Increase revenue and encourage hydrated skin this ‘ S.K.I.N winter with the Peacci ManiPedi Trio, featuring a Scrub, Mask and Cream.

Keysie Nail Saver Tool from 85p + VAT/RRP £1.25 www.keysieco.com The handy Keysie can be used to save fingernails from jobs that may prove damaging, such as opening cans or finding the end of a roll of tape when wrapping Christmas gifts.

It’s available in a variety of plain shades and patterns, and can be printed with your salon logo.

CND™ Scentsations Strawberry & Prosecco Hand & Body Lotion £5.95 + VAT/RRP £13.95 www.sweetsquared.com This restorative and moisturising formula absorbs quickly, to soften dry skin and restore essential moisture to the hands and body.

Studex Sensitive Gold Plated in Garnet & Star Cut £3.95 + VAT/RRP £10.50 each www.studexuk.com Give the gift of glittering new earrings this Christmas with Studex’s hypo-allergenic Sensitive range, an ideal retail product for the party season.

Light Elegance Q&Lu Bamboo Lotion £6 inc VAT/RRP £12 www.lightelegance.co.uk This hydrating hand, foot and body moisturiser features shea butter, grape seed oil, sunflower oil and bamboo extract to relax and soothe.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

The gift of gift sets Manucurist Red Velvet & Glitter Gold Ornament £POA/RRP £19 www.manucurist.com This set features Manucurist Green Nail Polish in Red Velvet and an eye-catching gold biodegradable glitter.

Clients searching for a quick and easy yet thoughtful gift to give this season, will appreciate gift sets for their convenience. Spruce up your salon shelves by displaying them prominently to attract sales.

+maskology Multi-Masking Set £7.50 + VAT/ RRP £15. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Packed with products to detoxify, hydrate and repair skin, the +maskology Multi-Masking Set includes a Detoxifying Facial Cleansing Mask, a Retinol + Vitamin C Under Eye Mask, a Squalene Facial Sheet Mask and a Thermotherapy Heated Eye Mask.

Mii Colour Confidence Trio Set £11 + VAT/RRP £22 www.gerrardinternational.com The Trio Set of Colour Confidence nail polishes offers three colourways, including festive reds and seasonal purples in a range of finishes, presented in a retail-friendly box.

Mad Beauty Disney Villains Ursula Hand Care Set £6.99 inc VAT/RRP £10.99 www.madbeauty.com Looking for the ultimate nailcare gift set for Disney lovers? Mad Beauty unveils a coconut-fragranced moisturising hand cream with shea butter, alongside an Ursula-inspired trident nail file.

Jessica Nourish + Care Kit £15 + VAT/RRP £30 www.gerrardinternational.com With moisturising formulations to care for hands and nails, the Jessica Nourish + Care Kit comes in a retail-ready bag for clients to purchase with ease.

Lecenté Cleansing Soak, Conditioning Scrub & Moisturising Lotion For Hands & Feet from £5.99 + VAT/RRP £13.95 each www.lecente.com Give the gift of a luxury at-home manicure routine to clients with Lecenté’s Cleansing Soak, Conditioning Scrub and Moisturising Lotion For Hands & Feet, delivering hydration and moisture to dry skin.

OPI Terribly Nice Treatment Power Duo £24.70 + VAT/RRP £32.90 www.opi.com This handy kit features OPI ProSpa Nail & Cuticle Oil to protect and strengthen, and Nail Envy Nail Strengthener to keep nails healthy and strong all winter long.

Christmas treats

“If you’re considering offering your clients traditional treats, such as a mince pie or glass of prosecco, ensure that you’re not breaking any licencing laws,” warns Ruth Atkins.

>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 31

CHRISTMASRETAIL

Create unique gifts with hampers & gift boxes Add a personalised touch to gift giving this season by creating hand-made hampers and gift boxes to retail during the festive period. Create ahead of time and hand-pick bundles of products tailored to clients’ unique preferences and needs.

1

Top tips to avoid excess stock

Know what to invest in

“It’s always hard to know what to invest in, so take a look at what has worked for you in previous years, or throughout the year,” notes Cara Shanks. “Keep a record of sales so you can look back and improve on your product selection. Don’t be afraid to ask your clients what they would like to see more or less of, or if you’re worried about having the conversation, send out an anonymous questionnaire.”

2

Avoid overly festive-themed products

“I like to buy stock with generic packaging, which can be sold after Christmas, or products that can be broken down after the festive season if not sold. These can be retailed individually or used in treatments,” shares Belinda Price.

Palette London Nail Paint £POA/ RRP £10 each www.palettelondon.com Choose from 10 striking shades in metallic and glitter finishes.

Famous Names Dadi’ Lotion £4 + VAT/RRP £8 www.louellabelle.co.uk Upgrade your hampers with Famous Names Dadi’ Lotion, a non-greasy hand and body lotion that works quickly to moisturise the skin. This vegan-friendly lotion can applied to the hands and body as desired, finished with the scent of Dadi’Oil.

CND SolarOil™ Pinkies (40pk) £53.95 + VAT/ RRP £4.95 each www.sweetsquared.com Blending vitamin E and jojoba oil to hydrate dry and damaged cuticles, CND SolarOil™ comes in a handy 3.7ml size to pop into any nail and beauty lover’s Christmas hamper.

3 Keep stock low

“A low-risk way to retail would be to stock one of each product and make it clear to clients that products need to be paid for upfront, and they will be ordered by a certain date. This keeps your cash flow more fluid and ensures you do not over-purchase,” Rachel Harrison explains.

Sometimes, you may still find yourself with overstock following the festive period, despite your best efforts to avoid it. “If you’ve over-ordered stock, a product that doesn’t sell can be split and sold separately, or could be pushed in a winter or Valentine’s Day promotion if it’s not too festive-focused,” says Ruth Atkins. “Another option would be to gift it to your local charity or via a social media giveaway, which is a great way to engage followers.”

“Consider making up goody bags for seasonal events or give away the items with the purchase of a treatment,” suggests Amirah Ibrahim. “If you host an event, incorporate your excess stock. Clients appreciate a great customer experience, and free items enhance this and make it more memorable.”

Nourish London Tangerine & Trehalose Hand Cream £6.67 + VAT/RRP £16 www.nourishskinrange.com In search of a hydrating stocking filler with a festive fruity fragrance? Nourish London’s Tangerine & Trehalose Hand Cream features joyful and uplifting citrus fruit fragrances with trehalose, to moisturise and hydrate the skin.

Pure Nails Cuticle Feed £2.45 + VAT/RRP £5.10 www.purenails.co.uk Serve up a fruity orange and mango fragrance in a handy 15ml bottle.

Gift vouchers The Manicure Company Cuticle Oil Pen £POA/RRP £4.63 www.themanicurecompany.com Available in a handy pen dispenser to suit clients on the go, The Manicure Company’s Cuticle Oil Pen contains seven vitamins and fatty acids to hydrate and condition cuticles.

32 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

A versatile and flexible gifting option, vouchers are ideal for those who want to give their friends or family freedom of choice. “Gift vouchers should be printed elaborately for Christmas, and make sure they come inclusive of envelopes, as well as the salon menu and price list,” advises Ruth Atkins.

CHRISTMASRETAIL

Advent calendars for techs & clients to enjoy Give yourself or your team members a gift this Christmas with an advent calendar, or retail some to clients so they can count down to Christmas Day. OPI Terribly Nice Mini Nail Lacquer 25-day Advent Calendar £58.90 + VAT/RRP £69.90 www.opi.com Complete with 25 mini nail lacquer shades, OPI’s Terribly Nice Advent Calendar includes the RapiDry Top Coat and Start to Finish 3 in 1 Treatment. Also featured are 14 shades from the Terribly Nice collection and nine iconic nail lacquer hues including Alpine Snow and Big Apple Red.

Glitterbels Advent Calendar in 12 Days Of HEMA-free Gel Polish £89.99 inc VAT or 12 Days of Acrylic £99.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Treat yourself to a Glitterbels advent calendar, featuring exclusive shades in L&P Acrylic or HEMA-free Gel Polish for presents over 12 days.

HONA Advent Calendar £125 + VAT www.homeofnailart.com HONA’s 12-day advent calendar includes 14 new products and surprise goodies for nail techs to unwrap in the run-up to Christmas. It features two products in each compartment, including calendar-exclusive gel polishes, detail paints and more.

IN THE KNOW Susan Routledge

Esteemed salon & spa business consultant, Susan Routledge, serves up advice on retail opportunities and challenges…

How can salons avoid excess seasonal stock?

Throughout December, keep a close eye on how your seasonal retail products are selling. If you think you have overstocked, pro-actively link sell the products with treatments or gift vouchers before Christmas, rather than panicking in the new year.

Consider a flash sale where you add value to popular products with a special package price. This way you aren’t hampering regular sales by deep discounting: just enhancing and encouraging more sales with an added value offer.

What advice do you have for the sales process?

Knowledge sells and boosts confidence. Ensure that you are well informed about not only your own products, but what is trending.

Explain your product choices to the client during every stage of the treatment, to aid the decision-making process at the till.

How can business owners encourage staff members to retail?

Promote incentives which are fun for all involved, motivating and affordable to the business. Your point of difference from competitors must be your expertise and professional advice.

Break down each treatment so that 70% of the time is clients talking about themselves, 20% of the time the nail tech can talk about themselves and the remaining 10% can be focused on treatments, homecare and retail. It is only six minutes per hour, but it is essential.

What is your advice for making a retail area look attractive?

You need to decide on the key areas where clients’ eyes focus and think about how you want the client to act. You may choose one area or a selection of smaller display areas. Do you want them to test the products, touch and feel the packaging, or view from afar? Look to your suppliers for nice imagery and display stands for a professional feel.

How can salon owners maximise on their retail display to attract clients?

Study displays in departmental stores or look at retail display images online that appeal to you. Produce a marketing calendar so that you can plan themes for your displays. There are hundreds of fun dates, as well as seasonal dates such as Christmas, that allow for ideas for themes. Think outside the box, too. I once ran a competition with a local infant school to produce a poster for my salon business and we had an art gallery of their work in our retail areas, converting many family friends, teachers and relatives into clients.

How can techs encourage clients to buy from them – and not the internet or larger chains?

As a small business owner, you have more flexibility to personalise your clients’ buying experiences. Offer a seven-day money back guarantee on products. The statistics from both businesses of 30 years, and the salons I work with, show that you will get very few products ever returned. Any that are returned can get used within treatments without waste. You could also price homecare products as part of a specific treatment package. Loyalty card schemes are a popular way to encourage consistent sales, too. www.susanroutledge.com

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33

AVAILABLE EXCLUSIVELY AT Distributed exclusively in the UK and Ireland with Love and Respect

your NEW 2-step solution to amazing lashes is here • lifts lashes in 2-steps • same great formula can now be used for brow lamination • new intense tints for both lashes and brows • gentle on hair, with an extremely low risk of overprocessing • ideal for sensitive eyes, with no harsh grow out

DISCOVER MORE

sweetsquared.com 03 3 3 0 0 0 70 0 0

EDUCATIONMATTERS

Triumph with

TEAM OPI Elevate your knowledge & explore nail training options with the Scratch Stars award-winning OPI education team

A

s 2023 comes to a close, consider your career plans post-Christmas rush. Is it your New Year’s resolution to try a new nail skill, refresh your existing knowledge or master a specific technique? There should be continued professional development (CPD) in your future, to keep your passion alive and nail services at the top of their game, and the OPI education team has served up advice to make the most of it.

OPI has been training students and professionals for over 30 years and offers Foundation, Professional and Advanced courses. Its education platform shares: “Your career is a journey that can take you to new levels of skill and profitability in the professional nail industry; a journey in which continuing education is the key to opening new doors and keeping you up-to-date with the latest technology and innovations.”

Led by OPI UK&I education manager, Belinda Price, the OPI education team was presented with the Scratch Stars Nail Team of the Year 2023 title at the Scratch Stars Party in Belinda Price July. Judges credited the team for being ‘a powerhouse of support’ with ‘fantastic initiatives’, and the team’s ambition is to educate nail and beauty professionals, as well as consumers, about nailcare and colour.

“Continuing education education is the In-person Training courses at the academies of OPI key to opening new educators across the UK&I are available “While working for a brand and delivering its all levels of nail enthusiast. Foundation doors and keeping tocourses education, it is our aim to share a greater are designed for beginners in the message,” Belinda comments. “Education industry, and once completed, pros can you up-to-date is for life, so research and invest to develop open an account with OPI to purchase with the latest yourself and your business. products directly. technology and Professional courses are designed for nail “We empower nail technicians by offering affordable training that is easily accessible and in line with industry technicians that hold a Manicure & Pedicure innovations.” qualification standards and innovations. But, there are a number of or a NVQ Level 2, and the Advanced things to consider before choosing a learning route.”

36 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

courses are the most complex. These include Powder

EDUCATIONMATTERS A map showing the locations of OPI educators in the UK&I.

Perfection and nail art offerings. In addition to product training, OPI can tailor courses to focus on retailing and profitability.

For existing OPI customers, in-salon training is available, and can often be subsidised. “The team can tailor training days to suit, and deliver skills from basic to advanced,” shares Belinda.

“Classes cover systems including OPI GelColor, Diamond Gel, ProSpa and Powder Perfection, and course costs vary, depending on their length. Many are free with the purchase of a system, or if you have the VIP app, you can collect points towards a free salon day when you reach a certain spend. A member of the OPI education team will visit the salon, bring all required products with them and run the training, before giving feedback on progress.”

TOP TRAINING TIP

“If you do a performance review for your staff each year, do you talk about career progression and development?

If so, work together on a plan, and book some internal and external education to support that plan. Set measurable goals to check that the education has created value.”

Belinda Price, OPI UK&I education manager

Virtual learning OPI’s live classes, hosted on Zoom, are ideal for an introduction to – or refresher of – OPI systems, and are free with a small booking fee. Attendees can get any questions answered in real time by an OPI educator.

Depending on your business plan and goals for the year, Belinda recommends booking external education every six months, and regular, mini internal training sessions as needed. “At OPI, we offer salons that spend over £2,000 per year, a free in-salon education day,” she shares. “We also offer free training with many bundle purchases, so you can attend one of OPI’s nationwide education centres and learn more about the products and upskill.

“Additionally, OPI hosts seasonal education events in line with each collection launch, designed to excite nail professionals and give them new ideas to take back to the nail desk. These events and training sessions pass people by, so with a bit of forward thinking, they can be put in the diary ahead of time.”

Explore OPI courses and events at www.opieducationuk.com /OPINailsUK @opinailsuk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 37

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

h t i w s e l k r a p S & e v Lo ABOUT KATY

Katy Pottle, or ‘Katy P’, has over two decades of experience in the nail industry. From working on a mobile basis to owning a salon, her journey is a testament to her dedication and passion for the world of nails. She loves glitter and is on a mission to help nail techs worldwide shine, one intricate design at a time, with her online workshops and one-to-one masterclasses. In July 2023, following an intense competition process, Katy beat nail artists across the globe to be crowned the first World’s Star Nail Artist. She seeks to inspire, mentor and sprinkle her signature ‘love and sparkles’ to fellow pros.

THE GLITTER MASTERCLASS Friday 10 November @ 8pm GMT It’s live, it’s sparkly and it’s all about GLITTER! Join me on Instagram to explore various glitter types and master the art of applying each one. Don’t worry if you can’t make it; the masterclass will be saved to my page.

PRE-RECORDED WORKSHOPS Get into the festive spirit with my gold and silver workshops. They feature a dazzling range of seasonal designs and techniques. Feeling adventurous? Choose between the two and create your very own custom workshop.

Visit www.katypnailartist.com and enter code SCRATCH for 10% off.

The World’s Star Nail Artist 2023 shares tips, techniques & insights into her soaring career

Top tips for a sparkling Christmas season

I

s it ever too early to mention the ‘C’ word? I think not! The shops are already packed with twinkling decorations and Christmas goodies, and I want to help you get ahead of the nail game. With the festive rush just around the corner, it’s essential to prepare your salon and kit for the frenzy.

In this article, I’ll share a treasure trove of tips on how to get your salon ready and stay sane during the busiest six weeks of the year.

Deck the halls of your salon: Start by giving your salon a merry makeover and put up some decorations. Clients will appreciate the holiday vibes, and I believe that it’s never too early to get into the festive spirit. It’s easier to do sooner, rather than later, between a rush of appointments.

Learn new designs : Brush up on Christmas-themed nail designs early. Think sparkly baubles, glowing stars and holiday patterns.

Don’t forget to update your nail art displays with Christmas-themed designs to inspire your clients, too.

Client gifts : If this is something you are considering, pop a gift voucher in a Christmas card for a percentage off an appointment in January. It not only delights your clients, but fills your books for a quiet month. Double win! However, be mindful of the type of gifts you offer, as some can be a lot of effort and cost for limited gain.

38 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

: Make a checklist and check it twice! Ensure you have an ample supply of essential nail products and materials.

You don’t want to run out of your popular Christmas colours or nail art accessories in the middle of a busy day. Stocking up in advance will save you from any last-minute holiday stress, or a dreaded ‘out of stock’ sign on your brand’s website. Remember to buy red glitter by the bucket load!

Stock up on supplies

: If you use an online booking system, make sure it is up-to-date with your Christmas hours. Promote festive appointments early and consider taking deposits in this busy season, to encourage clients to keep their appointments and not make any last-minute cancellations. Don’t forget to account for breaks in order to recharge.

Set appointments wisely

Set boundaries: I know we never want to disappoint a client, but it is crucial to set clear boundaries. Let them know your availability and when you’ll be taking a well-deserved break. As much as we adore helping everyone, it’s okay to say no if it means protecting our wellbeing.

: Gift cards are a handy way to make some extra money, so ensure you promote them. If you have a website, sell them on there, too. They make perfect last-minute gifts.

Offer gift cards

: It’s a great time to stock up on gift packs, cuticle oils and hand creams to sell to your clients as presents, or put together bundles of existing stock and tie with a red bow.

Retail

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

“Clients will appreciate the holiday vibes, and I believe that it’s never too early to get into the festive spirit.

It’s easier to do sooner, rather than later, between a rush of appointments.”

Stay organised : Use this time to tidy up your nail space and get organised.

Rearrange Christmas product favourites so they are within easy reach, and pop nail art gels in a palette for easy access.

A well-organised workspace is the secret to a smooth holiday season.

The importance of self-care Now, let’s talk about a crucial area: self-care.

During the Christmas rush, it’s easy to become overwhelmed. Remember, you can’t create dazzling nail art if you’re exhausted. Here are some self-care tips: • Take short breaks: A five-minute break can do wonders. Stretch, hydrate and refocus.

• Stay hydrated and nourished: Keep a water bottle and healthy snacks nearby to maintain good energy levels.

• Delegate tasks: If you have help at hand, delegate responsibilities to lighten your load. Team work makes the dream work!

• Get enough sleep: Rest is your secret weapon. Ensure you get plenty of sleep between busy work days.

• Stay inspired: Don’t forget why you love your job. Take a moment to appreciate your own creations; it’s great for motivation.

A time for reflection As 2023 comes to a close, take time to reflect on your achievements and set fresh goals for the year ahead. Plus, treat yourselves to some holiday indulgence – you’ve earned it!

So, my nail artist crew, as the Christmas season approaches, follow these tips to prepare your salon for a merry and bright experience. Stay organised, prioritise selfcare and embrace the festive spirit. With these strategies, you’ll not only nail your holiday designs, but make it through the busiest six weeks of the year with your sanity intact.

As we gear up to sprinkle some holiday magic on our clients’ nails, self-care and balance are our ingredients to success.

Love & Sparkles,

Katy P x www.katypnailartist.com /katypnailartist @katyp_nailartist

STEP- BY- STEP: Disco Puds KIT LIST All products used are from Magpie Beauty, available via www.magpiebeauty.co.uk • Prep & Dehydrate Fluid • Get A Grip Rubber Base Coat • ARTYgels in Black & White • Chromes in Candy & Elfie • 240-grit buffer • Gel Colours in Forget Mia Not, Disco Diva & Like A Diamond • Give Me Strength Builder Gel • Shapes in Tara Hexagon • Glitter in Yang • Duster Brushes in Soft & Firm • Dotting tool, silicone tool & detailer brush • Catcher tray • Cleanser

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

Step 1 Apply Get A Grip Rubber Base Coat, followed by two coats of Forget Mia Not Gel Colour, curing between each layer. Use a detailer brush to apply Disco Diva Gel Colour in a circle in the centre of the nail. Do not cure.

Step 2 Use a dotting tool to apply Tara Hexagon Shapes to the uncured Disco Diva dot, using the different sizes to fill the space of the circle. Cure.

Step 3 Apply a coat of Give Me Strength Builder Gel to encapsulate the shapes and cure. Cleanse with Prep & Dehydrate Fluid and buff the surface using a 240-grit buffer.

Step 4 Use the Black ARTYgel and dotting tool to place three small dots on top of the circle and cure.

Apply Candy Chrome over the three dots using a silicone tool, and brush away the excess with the Soft Duster Brush.

Step 5 Paint holly leaves around the berries with the Black ARTYgel, then cure and apply Elfie Chrome over the top. Add details on the berries and leaves by painting on top before curing.

Step 6 Apply a coat of Give Me Strength to encapsulate the design and cure. Next, apply a coat of Like A Diamond Gel Colour, cure, then cleanse the inhibition layer with Prep & Dehydrate Fluid.

Step 7 Use ARTYgel in White and a detailer brush to paint icing drips on the top section of the circle. Add small snowflakes around the pudding using a dotting tool. Do not cure.

Step 8 Position the catcher tray under the nail and sprinkle Yang Glitter on top of the uncured ARTYgel. Tap off the excess and cure.

9

Step 9 Use the Duster Brush in Firm to remove any excess glitter.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 39

HEALTHIER AND STRONGER NAILS

HELPS WITH RETENTION

ABSORBS INTO SKIN QUICKLY

HYDRATES THE SKIN

ENHANCES MANICURES

MESS-FREE APPLICATOR

glitterbels.com | glitterbels

Cuticle OIL

Introducing Introducing our our new new and and improved improved Glitterbels Glitterbels Cuticle Cuticle Oil Oil -- aa must-have must-have for for daily daily nail nail care. care. This This essential essential oil oil promotes promotes nail nail health, health, hydration, hydration, and and growth, growth, benefiting benefiting Acrylic, Acrylic, Builder-bel Builder-bel Gel, Gel, and and Gel Gel Polish Polish retention. retention. Choose Choose from from two two delightful delightful scents scents Almond Almond & & Pineapple.

Pineapple. Now Now in in aa convenient convenient pink pink bottle bottle with with aa pipette pipette applicator applicator for for easy easy and and hygienic hygienic use. use.

CUTICLE CUTICLE OIL OIL 17ML 17ML

We We are are crazy crazy for for cuticles… cuticles… And And now now your your clients clients can can be be too. too. Not Not only only have have we we released released our our cuticle cuticle oil oil in in aa 17ml 17ml bottle, bottle, but but we we have have created created aa gorgeous gorgeous 18-piece 18-piece multipack multipack of of 5ml 5ml cuticle cuticle oils. oils. This This product product looks looks amazing amazing in in any any salon salon and and it’s it’s the the perfect perfect add add on on service service for for your your clients, clients, ensuring ensuring your your clients clients are are taking taking care care of of their their nails nails in-between in-between appointments, appointments, with with their their own own mini mini cuticle cuticle oil. oil. Beautiful Beautiful nails nails have have never never been been so so easy. easy.

CUTICLE CUTICLE OIL OIL SALON SALON PACK PACK -- 18 18 X X 5ML 5ML

BLACK FRIDAY SIGN UP FOR EXCLUSIVE DEALS

SCAN SCAN HERE HERE

Image courtesy of Light Elegance, www.lightelegance.co.uk

NAILSERVICES

Getting to grips with E-files & bits Reduce strain caused by hand-filing with CALLIE ILEY’S guide to E-file use

T

he use of an E-file in a nail service can significantly speed up the shaping and filing process, as well as reduce the physically demanding and repetitive use of hand files.

“Some nail technicians are divided over the use of E-files, believing that they damage the client’s nails; but that is not the case if proper training is given,” comments award-winning nail artist & founder of HD Nail Artist Academy, Hazel Dixon. “An E-file on its own cannot cause any damage to your client’s nails.

When the correct drill bits and techniques are used, E-files are perfectly safe.”

Hazel Dixon

Annabel Ifill

“Using an E-file can be more comfortable for the client, with many stating how pleasant and gentle the prep stage feels,” shares Annabel Ifill, Willow Academy educator for South London & Surrey.

“Using an E-file during an E-pedi can help to resolve dry and calloused heels without the need for intense manual labour.”

“The ability to use specialised bits increases precision and reduces the amount of waste created by traditional, disposable hand files,” adds Paulina Zdrada, founder & educator at The Nail Lab. “E-files also dramatically reduce the time it takes to prep the nail or remove product, Paulina Zdrada which means less physical strain on the tech.

However, there are rules to follow to ensure the safe and effective use of an E-file. For example, you should never use a carbide bit designed for debulking on the natural nail.”

Annabel agrees: “Checking for contra-indications is key, and skin type should always be assessed before electric manicures are performed, as some are not always suitable for every step.”

42 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

E-file use Different E-file bits can be used for various purposes, including: • Removing bulk and product that is lifting.

• Removing dry skin from feet.

• Removing non-living tissue from the cuticle.

• Reducing the length of enhancements.

• Refining product.

• Polishing and exfoliating the skin.

• Cutting out smile lines.

Dissecting RPM RPM stands for Revolutions Per Minute, which is the speed of the E-file when the bit is spinning in the handpiece. RPM for E-files can range from 15,000 to 40,000, with the majority of machines featuring an RPM of around 30,000.

“For natural nails, an RPM of at least 15,000 should suffice. Enhancements such as L&P acrylic will require a machine with an RPM of 25,000 or higher,” shares Katie Clark, founder of Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education.

Katie Clark

“The faster an E-file can turn, the quicker it can rotate, so the friction against the surface results in quicker removal,” adds Paulina. “Having a higher RPM device means you will rarely be using it at its maximum rotation speed, meaning you’re putting your device under less pressure, less often. This will give it a longer-lasting life expectancy at full quality.”

Let’s talk torque Measured in Newton-centimetre (Ncm), torque is the power behind the speed that the E-file uses to rotate while in contact with a friction point. “RPM and torque need each other. The torque should be no lower than 2.6 Ncm to avoid feeling any of the stopping that can happen on a less powerful device,” shares Paulina.

NAILSERVICES “The higher the torque, the more room the device has in terms of working without being maxed out.”

“A good quality E-file should be able to maintain the same speed and rotational power, whether it’s spinning in the air or being used on a nail,” Hazel Dixon observes. “Techs who have a low torque E-file will find themselves applying more pressure or increasing the speed of their E-file to compensate for the loss in power, which can lead to excessive heat, damage to the nail plate and quick wear of the bits. With a high torque E-file, only a light touch is needed – the bits and the motor will do most of the work.”

“Most low-quality E-files have a low torque, so will struggle to maintain speed and power, making them noisy with high vibration,” adds Annabel Ifill. “The E-file is having to work twice as hard, causing the tech to work twice as hard, which can create substandard results and cause issues such as RSI for the tech and nail separation for the client.”

Shopping for E-files: Points to consider • Is the device portable or desktop?

• What is the RPM, torque and motor?

• What is the direction of the E-file?

• Are you happy with the style?

• Is the size and weight of the handpiece suitable?

• How much sound does the E-file make?

• How much does the E-file vibrate?

• What is the device made from? Is it acetone-resistant?

• Has the E-file been designed for professional use?

The Manicure Company E-File Pro 2.0 £246.40 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com Offering a powerful yet smooth performance, The Manicure Company E-File Pro 2.0 features a brushless motor, and is quiet and vibration-free. Lightweight and portable, it includes a belt clip and has a fast, three-hour charging time with an RPM of 35,000.

Desktop vs portable Desktop machines are generally more powerful than portable models, with portable E-file machines having a lower torque due to their rechargeable batteries and slimline handpieces.

“This doesn’t mean portable E-files with high torque aren’t powerful or fit for purpose,” shares Annabel Ilfill. “Techs need to assess working conditions and preferences to choose whether a portable or desktop E-file is more suitable.

“Nail technicians that offer L&P acrylic infills or dry pedicures, or techs that work full-time and see many clients each day, may be better suited to a high torque desktop E-file machine. Nail technicians that work part-time, or mainly with gel products and on natural nails, may be better suited to a portable machine.”

Light Elegance Zippy Gen2 £419.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk Designed for use on natural nails, enhancements and for pedicures, the Zippy Gen2 E-file benefits from a directional switch, variable speed control, a locking chuck accepting all standard 3/32” bits, and up to 20 hours of battery life. It has an RPM of up to 35,000.

COURSE OFFERINGS Eager to learn E-filing? Scratch highlights training courses and their product options to support your journey…

Sweet Squared – Academy2 New.2 KUPA Designed for enhancement trained nail professionals who have never used an E-file before, this course covers the knowledge and techniques needed to safely use a KUPA E-file to speed up services, without compromising the integrity of the natural nail plate. The course consists of both online learning and one practical session (4hrs).

Featuring a lightweight, battery-powered and acetone resistant control box, the Manipro Passport can provide up to 10 hours of use per charge in either 110v or 220v. It comes with a stainless steel belt clip and a plastic handpiece holster. Pair with the KP-60; a sleek, ergonomic and vibration-free handpiece with 25,000 RPM and high torque. www.sweetsquared.com KUPA Manipro KP-60 Handpiece £265 + VAT & KUPA Manipro Passport Control Box in Princess £125 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com

Willow Academy The Ultimate E-file course This one-day course is tailored to beginners and existing E-file users who want to convert to the ‘the Willow way’. It features both theory and practical, hands-on learning.

The Natural Nail Tech E-file Course Choose this E-file course if you work with gel polish on the natural nail and do not offer infills. This half-day learning session will teach extensive cuticle work, as well as how to safely and effectively remove product from the natural nail.

The E-pedi Course Learn how to offer a waterless electric pedicure. An E-file qualification is required to join this course. www.willowacademy.com

Willow E-file Prime in White £250 + VAT www.willowacademy.com This desktop model by Willow Academy includes a carbon brush motor handpiece, foot pedal option, a bit holder fitting 12 bits and an LCD speed and direction display. Its RPM is 38,000 and torque is 3.2 Ncm.

Willow E-file Pro Machine in Gold £300 + VAT www.willowacademy.com Harnessing the power of high torque, this lightweight E-file Pro Machine prioritises comfort and features a skinny, pen-like handpiece with a brushless motor for a silent E-filing experience. The machine is portable, with a 20-hour battery life and no vibration. Its RPM is 30,000 and torque is 2.8 Ncm.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43

>>

NAILSERVICES

The GelBottle Academy E-file Course The GelBottle Academy’s half-day E-file Course combines practical, hands-on learning with theory to showcase how to safely and effectively use The GelBottle Inc’s E-file machine. Learn which speeds to work at for different products, which E-file bits to use, and the best techniques for safe removal of gel polish. www.thegelbottle-academy.com

The Nail Lab Academy E-file Level One Workshop Techs that hold a minimum of a gel polish qualification can benefit from this comprehensive half-day course, which covers what makes a good E-file, theory, bits, cleaning and how to prepare, refine, debulk and more. www.tnluk.co.uk The Nail Lab Fusion Hybrid E-file £199 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk The Fusion operates as both a portable and desktop E-file. Alcohol and acetone resistant, it is available in black and white with a matching coloured handset and docking stations. Fusion has a 3.9 Ncm torque, RPM of 35,000 and forward and reverse functions. Lightweight, it features a digital display and has a smart speed function.

The GelBottle Inc Portable E-file £165 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com This lightweight and compact E-file model offers adjustable speeds of up to 35,000 RPM and a one-click direction change setting. It allows for low vibration, tension-free services with its high torque, and up to 12 hours of battery life is displayed on an LCD screen, which also offers speed precision.

The GelBottle E-Foot File £89 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com With an elegant, pearlescent design, this E-Foot File assists in performing pedicures to achieve smooth, soft skin with ease, utilising an ergonomic and lightweight design and a 360° rotating disc to adapt to the contours of the feet. RPM: Up to 500.

Glitterbels E-file (Online) This three-hour course is for pros with L&P acrylic, hard gel or builder gel certification. It will help improve your filing techniques to minimise strain in the arms, hands and shoulders, and covers how to use the Glitterbels E-file, different drill bits and speeds, and how and when to use on artificial nails, infills and finish filing. www.glitterbels.com

Hazel Dixon Nail Artist Academy E-mani Accredited Class This E-mani class is designed with the natural nail tech in mind.

Ideal for those who offer builder gel and gel polish services, this six-hour class focuses on natural nail prep, cuticle removal, skin exfoliation and polishing, along with time-saving techniques.

E-file Accredited Class The six-hour E-file class is designed for existing enhancement technicians wishing to learn the correct and safe techniques for electric filing machines, or those who seek to refresh their knowledge.

It explores E-file bits, speeds, health, safety and hygiene procedures, torque and RPM, carbide, ceramic and diamond bits and how to cut out smile lines. It also covers how to reduce bulk and length quickly, gel polish removal, cleaning under the nail, buffing and finishing.

E-pedi Combi Accredited Class Tailored to existing E-file techs, the E-pedi Combi Class is ideal for techs who offer pedicures and want to add new techniques to their existing treatment menu. The seven-hour class focuses on natural nail prep, cuticle removal, skin exfoliation and polishing along with hard skin removal, using different grits to support a long-lasting pedicure. www.hazeldixonnails.com 44 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

The Nail Lab ePad £199 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk Featuring a touch-sensitive panel to control speed and direction, a coreless motor and smart speed memory, this desktop E-file also includes a built-in bit holder.

It has an RPM of 35,000 and 4.8 Ncm torque.

Katie Barnes Tool Range & Education KB E-Filing Masterclass Ideal for beginners or those who seek to refresh their skills and knowledge, this masterclass online course is available to all pros, regardless of the E-file brand chosen. Course literature is provided prior to the commencement of the live, online training session. It covers anatomy and E-filing techniques across a range of mediums, with a focus on correct pressure and angles and E-file bits in detail. www.katiebarnesacademy.com KB Portable E-file £348 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com This USB-powered E-file has forward and reverse functions, doubling as a charging power bank and boasting an acetone-proof handpiece and control box. The E-file is complete with a desk stand and bit tidy. Its RPM is 40,000 and torque is 2.8 Ncm.

OPI x KB Portable E-file Bundle £411.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com Katie Barnes Tool Range has collaborated with OPI to offer the KB Portable E-file with a training course, eight-piece bit bundle, KB Polishing Ball and OPI Cuticle Oil. The Portable E-File comes with a desk stand and bit tidy and has a stop, pause memory function.

Forward & reverse settings

Most E-files move in two directions – forward and reverse. Katie Clark comments: “It may be necessary to use the other direction to achieve greater success, such as one side to the centre and repeating on the other side, especially with cuticle work – rather than from one side all the way to the other, or for working on your wrong hand.”

NAILSERVICES

Which bit?

DEBULKING

E-file bits are available in a range of different materials, grits, sizes and shapes, with a variety of uses.

• Diamond bits – not for use on the natural nail. Used for exfoliating or polishing skin and pushing back the proximal nail fold.

• Carbide and ceramic bits – not for use on the natural nail.

Used to remove or debulk overlays and extensions, shorten length, and cut or pierce designs.

• Silicone bits – for polishing both natural nails or enhancements. Cannot be disinfected or sterilised.

• Mandrel bits – used with sanding bands to smooth surfaces, prep the nail and remove gel polish.

PREP

Light Elegance Z-Bit in Lefty Lu £37.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

KB 5 in 1 Cross Cut E-file Bit £18.99 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com

FINISHING

HD Pro Mini Teardrop Diamond Bit in F & M £9.99 + VAT each www.hazeldixonnails.com

Light Elegance Z-Bit in Smoothie £43.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

HD Pro Ball Bit Exfoliator & Polisher in 4mm XF £9.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com Light Elegance Z-Bit in Cutie Patootie £19.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

Glitterbels Classic Carbide Mandrel Bit £11 inc VAT & Black Sanding Bands in Fine 240-grit £9 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

BITS FOR FEET Willow E-pedi Kit £30 + VAT www.willowacademy.com

Light Elegance Z-Bit in Pedi Betty £37.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

REMOVAL

Willow The Original Kit in Silver £62 + VAT www.willowacademy.com Light Elegance Z-Bit in Speedy £43.95 + VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

Glitterbels Volcano XC £17 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com

Magpie Beauty Carbide Bit in Boss Bit £18.50 + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk The GelBottle Inc Featherfast Removal Bit £32 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

HD Pro The Pedi Bit in C £22.99 + VAT www.hazeldixonnails.com KB Pedi E-file Bit Kit £53.97 inc VAT www.katiebarnesacademy.com The Nail Lab Dust Caps (10pk) £5 inc VAT www.tnluk.co.uk

CARE & CLEANING

Taking good care of your E-file and bits will maintain their longevity and efficacy. “One of the most important things you can do to maintain and care for an E-file is to use dust caps on your bits,” recommends Paulina Zdrada. “When dust enters the handpiece and starts to build up, it can heavily impact the motor’s ability to operate smoothly and quietly. Extreme build-up of dust can also cause heat to be generated as a result of the internal friction between the dust and the rotating elements of the motor, which could terminally damage your device.”

“Get your E-file serviced every six to 12 months, to ensure any dust build-up is thoroughly removed,” adds Annabel Ilfill. “Do not change the direction of the motor while the bit is in use, and don’t use portable machines while they’re charging, as this can affect battery life.”

“Remove dust and residue build-up within the grits or flute cuts on your bits,” adds Katie Barnes. “Use a wire brush to do this or soak the bits in a cleaning solution to help dissolve this acrylic material.”

Jennie Nippard

“After disinfecting your E-file bits, ensure that they are thoroughly dry before you put them Willow Brass Brush £4 + VAT into your handpiece,” www.willowacademy.com highlights Jennie Nippard, Glitterbels deputy head of education. “If there is any liquid left on the bit, it can travel down into the handpiece and affect the motor.”

“Bits should be removed from the device and then washed in Nigel Rouse clean water before being disinfected using a product with rust inhibitors, such as Mundo Power Plus Ultra,” comments Nigel Rouse, owner of Mundo Professional. “Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the use of any disinfectant product, as they all Mundo Power Plus Ultra £6.95 + VAT have specific guidance.”

www.mundoproducts.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 45

Join the UK Family!

Proud to be HEMA monomer free since 1999.

FIND US ON SOCIAL

@LightEleganceHQ

@LightElegance.UK

— Rich opacity for thinner application — Ideal balance of strength and flexibility — Premium brush for silky smooth application — Twice the glitter in every bottle

light

e l e g a nc e W E ’ V E G O T G R E AT C H E M I S T R Y

WHAT

makes US CONSISTENT

From our meticulous quality control to the science-backed information we deliver. We ensure that every LE product will look, feel and perform to the highest standards, every time.

Consistent is what makes us LE.

#LEConsistent Responsibly Manufactured in the USA

TECHSPOTLIGHT

READERS GALLERY

Galway’s ORLA O DONOHOE shares her favourite nail creations & ambitions for the future

48 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TECHSPOTLIGHT

Name – Orla O Donohoe Age – 32 Business name – Third Eye Beauty Studio Location – Galway, Ireland Years in nails – Eight years ago, I completed training in hard gel enhancements, before moving on to train in gel polish and builder gel in a bottle application.

Trained with – Creative Academy and The Manicure Company (TMC). I loved TMC products from the moment I tried them in 2016 and am an ambassador for the brand.

Favourite products – The Manicure Company gel polishes and the colourful Zero Gel Polish range.

Favourite technique – I enjoy using builder gel in a bottle to protect my

clients’ natural nails and support their growth. It’s so rewarding to watch their progress and know that the health of the natural nail hasn’t been compromised.

Favourite nail design – It’s hard to choose a single design, as I love creating a variety of looks; from seasonal floral styles to a classic red finish.

Career ambition & vision – I would like to become an educator and ensure that industry standards are at a high level. I have grown my business a lot since opening in May 2021, and would love to continue to expand.

Who do you admire in the Industry?

I’m obsessed with the work of @nailz_by_dev – especially the characters she paints. Her personality is quirky, creative and fun, and her talent is out of this world. @third_eye_beauty_studio

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 49

PRODUCTMATTERS

IS IT VEGAN?

Are your clients calling for vegan & cruelty-free products? CALLIE ILEY explores how to tell if your nail & beauty products fit the bill

T

he global vegan cosmetics market is anticipated to reach $24.79 billion in 2028, according to research

by Fortune Business Insights. It’s a big focal point for clients and pros alike – but what does it mean for a product to be vegan? A vegan product will not contain any animal-derived ingredients, such as colourants or animal by-products, and won’t have been tested on animals.

Wolverhampton-based pro, Yasmin Hodge of Gels

By Yas, uses vegan products for her nail services, explaining: “I use vegan gel products for my treatments as I’ve previously had new clients ask if my products are cruelty-free. It increases my possible audience as I can cater to Yasmin Hodge vegan-conscious clients.”

Common animal-derived ingredients in nail and handcare products include: • Animal hair – used in some nail brushes.

• Beeswax – often found in moisturising products.

• Carmine dye – used in some red nail polishes.

• Tallow –sometimes used in nail polish.

50 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Abi Hassan

“Being able to provide reassurance to my clients that I provide vegan and cruelty-free nail services is really important to to me, and my transparency allows clients to make informed decisions about their treatments,” notes Abi Hassan of Hot Wheels Nails, Canterbury.

“Clients and pros are increasingly aware of how products are made and their ingredients,” says Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert & owner of Sketched by J-A Nails, Kent. “It was an important personal decision to use vegan, cruelty-free products in Julie-Anne Larivière my treatments.”

PRODUCTMATTERS

Logos to look for:

The Vegan Society

Vegan Action

Cruelty Free International

PETA

How to tell if a product is vegan “A lot of brands offering vegan and cruelty-free products are generally transparent about it,” comments Abi Hassan. “However, I still like to contact the brands that I use to ensure that their ethos aligns with the ethical values of my typical clientele.”

“Through brand and staff training, all therapists in my salon are aware of which products are suitable for vegan clients, and if we are unsure, we read the ingredient lists and Safety Data sheets,” explains Rachel Harrison, Louella Belle educator & owner of Inspire by Rachel Rachel Harrison Beauty Clinic, Droitwich. “We verify products are vegan by using long-standing, professional brands that produce and manufacture consistent quality products, as well as checking all ingredient listings and ensuring they are not tested on animals.”

An inside look

Laura Rudoe

Choose Cruelty Free

A spokesperson from The Vegan Society notes: “Unfamiliar terminology on product packaging can mean customers are unaware that they are purchasing something with animal-derived ingredients. This is why we would suggest looking for a certification, such as the Vegan Trademark, which gives consumers confidence that their purchase is both free from animal ingredients and has not been tested on animals.”

What is the Vegan Trademark?

Established in 1990 by The Vegan Society, the Vegan Trademark is present on over 65,000 certified vegan products, including a range of cosmetics and beauty products.

Evolve Organic Beauty

Timeless Renewal Cuticle “Obtaining vegan certification Oil £7 + VAT/RRP £14 for products is a very thorough www.louellabelle.co.uk process. The Vegan Society checks every single ingredient in each product,” reveals Laura Rudoe, founder of vegan and cruelty-free brand, Evolve Organic Beauty. “Some active ingredients can contain a list of up to five or six sub-ingredients, so it’s a pretty lengthy process, as not only are the sub-ingredients checked, but the solvent and extraction process.

“A vegan product will not contain any animal-derived ingredients, such as colourants or animal by-products, and won’t have been tested on animals.”

“Sometimes, ingredients that have been approved in the past will get re-checked, so the evidence must be provided for this again, making the process even longer. Not many ingredient suppliers get their ingredients approved by The Vegan Society, so the leg work has to be done by us.”

Evolve Organic Beauty Timeless Renewal Hand Cream £10.05 + VAT/RRP £20 www.louellabelle.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

THE

mobile CLUB

Award-winning mobile nailist, CLARE WOODCOCK, shares top tips for making a success out of working on the move ABOUT CLARE WOODCOCK

WINNER

Clare Woodcock is founder of The Nail Club, a mobile beauty business based in Sunbury upon Thames, Surrey. She began her nail industry journey in 2017, following 20 years in the music and entertainment sector as a senior PR manager and event producer. Clare trained with Gelish and has since expanded her nail and beauty knowledge with Bio Sculpture, Nouveau Lashes and HD Brows. She was awarded gold at the British Hair & Beauty Awards 2021 for Mobile Therapist of the Year, and scooped the Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year title in 2022 and 2023. Clare also works as director of communications for the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP).

T

Presentation & professionalism as a mobile pro

o wear a uniform or not to wear a uniform? It was a question I asked myself when I set out as a mobile tech. I wanted to show that I was professional, but also required flexibility to transition between visiting clients and doing the school run.

If you’re considering how to present yourself, it’s important to remember that you are representing your business. If you want your clients to take you seriously, every aspect of how you present yourself needs to be professional. It makes a real difference to your work life when your clients understand your professional boundaries.

I decided to go with the unwritten code for freelance beauty professionals and wear black. It’s a shade I feel comfortable wearing and can look professional and powerful, yet unassuming.

But when it comes to style, try to project your personality to attract like-minded clients.

“Consider every detail, as clients will often notice small, thoughtful touches.”

If you consider the way you present yourself to clients – especially for the first time, try to appear aspirational. Alternatively, think about how you would like to see someone arriving at your door. Clients will be loyal if they admire or relate to you. A clean kit and tidy workspace demonstrates your professionalism, too.

Consider every detail, as clients will often notice small, thoughtful touches.

If you prefer to wear a uniform and have a strong brand image that you want to maintain, buy a t-shirt or sweatshirt with your logo on. Or if like me, you want the flexibility of being able to easily switch from your work life to your personal life, you could purchase a branded apron. I particularly like this option, as I can wear clothes that I am comfortable in and that suit my style, but when I 52 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

need to showcase my business and protect my clothes, my branded apron is handy.

If you want to opt for scrubs or salonwear because you prefer the ease of a work outfit, go for it! It’s your business and your rules.

Lastly, if you’re not sure how to present yourself, why not create a poll? Ask friends or a pool of people that mirror your ideal client to see what their expectations are.

Just remember that a clean, neat look speaks volumes about how you view your working practice.

Until next month,

Clare

www.thenailclub.uk /thenailclublondon @thenailclublondon

NAILINSPO

How to master

Light Elegance educator, Leila Monroy, paints six iconic Disney characters across nails.

t r a l i a n r e charact

REBECCA HITCHON’S ith w ils na on life to s er urite charact Bring your clients’ favo a d va nc e d te c hs & r ne in g e b r fo e c vi ro un d up o f a d If you or your clients are film fans, cosplay crazy, Disney holiday-goers or simply love sentimental or seasonal nail art, keep reading. Character nail art can seem overwhelming, especially if you’re at the beginning of your nail journey, but with #characternails amassing over 74,000 Instagram posts and over 16 million TikTok views, at the time of writing, it’s a popular art form that can elevate your nail offerings.

Vicky Bancroft

Noting that character nails are well suited to comic conventions and fandom gatherings, Steffi Jasmine Fernandez shares this look inspired by Marvel Comics and film character, Groot.

“Character nail art offers a vibrant canvas for selfexpression, suitable for a spectrum of occasions, from themed parties or holidays to Steffi Jasmine Fernandez everyday wear,” notes Glitterbels ambassador, Steffi Jasmine Fernandez of @sfxnails. “Whether you’re delving into the world of cosplay or simply looking to make a statement at a special event, character nail art has a versatile appeal.”

Lecenté educator, Kimberly Johnstone, feels the love with The Flintstones-inspired nails for Valentine’s Day.

From a small and simple nod to a character to a figure painted on each nail, techs of varying skills can benefit from the opportunities that character art offers year-round. “I’ve been asked to create character nails for weddings, funerals, graduations, engagement celebrations and gender reveal parties,” shares Vicky Bancroft of Greater Manchester business, Nails By Victoria B & NSI social media advocate.

Salon System nail expert, Julie-Anne Larivière, says ‘I do’ to character nail art by painting a dinosaur bride and groom on thumbnails.

Light Elegance Stripy Celina Rydén Art Brush £16 inc VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

OPI Artist Series #6 Gel Oval Brush £18.10 + VAT www.opi.com Halo Create Dotting Tool Double Ended Combo £9.85 + VAT www.purenails.co.uk

INK London 240 x Nail Art Display Clips (Clear) £5 + VAT www.inknails.com

Artistic Mini Striper Brush £12.95 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Glitterbels Rainbow Fine Detailer Brushes (3pk) £15 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com 54 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILINSPO

5 star tips

Jiak Hing, Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year 2022 & 2023, shares her top character painting tricks...

Jiak Hing

1

Plan: Preparation, via researching and sketching out your design, is key to making the painting experience smooth and efficient.

2 Choose the right tools, products and medium: High quality nail art

tools and pigmented gels will improve the flow and results of your painting.

One-layer coverage is time-saving when creating detailed art.

3

Practice makes perfect: There is no shortcut; regular practice builds confidence and improves your skills.

4

Use reference images: Having reference pictures ensures accuracy, helping you to capture characters’ features.

Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs design by Jiak Hing.

The consultation “It’s crucial to carry out a consultation prior to creating a character nail design for a client,” explains character nail art specialist, Hannah Smith of @hannahsmithnailartist, Essex.

Hannah Smith “This is important because you and your client need to highlight your expectations.

In the consultation, you can thoroughly discuss what you’re happy to try and what may not be possible regarding your client’s ideas or reference pictures. The consultation also allows you to determine how long the design will take, so you can be clear about what to charge the client.”

“In the consultation, go through every detail with a fine-tooth comb, right down to the nail length, shape and budget,” says Louella Belle ambassador, Laura Chree of Chreeative Nails, Laura Chree Scotland. “Ask the client if there are any elements that they would be happy for you to take the creative lead on. If they say ‘yes’, this can make the design process easier.”

5 Layer colours: For example, I start with outlining, fill in spaces with a base colour, then outline again. Adding shading and highlights after creates a realistic effect.

Planning your design “To be a great character nail artist, you need to be able to copy reference images well from paper or a screen,” reveals Michelle Brookes, Louella Belle educator. “With a digital image, zoom in on the picture so that you can see what fits the nail, and divide into four equal parts using editing software. Following the application of base coat, Michelle Brookes divide the nail into four lightly using a pencil and transfer the outline in each corresponding part of the image onto the nail.”

“Break the reference image down into steps, so you don’t waste time figuring out a plan or the proportions as you paint,” adds Julie-Anne Larivière, Salon System nail expert.

“You could even practice drawing the design on paper first, improving your understanding of what steps you should be Julie-Anne Larivière taking and in what order.”

“When planning your design, be aware that nails are curved, so some of the look could get ‘lost’ down the sidewalls,” notes Vicky Bancroft. “I avoid this issue by focusing on the main elements of the characters I am painting, for example the key facial features that make them recognisable, as opposed to ears or hair.”

“The key to making the character nail art process less overwhelming is saying ‘no’ if needed, during your consultation,” adds Amy Martin, Gelish educator. “If a client has Amy Martin asked for a design that isn’t within your skill level and that you don’t feel confident creating, be honest and explain this to them.

Talking through a similar, simpler design will improve your creative experience.”

From planning to the finished look: Rachel Shuttleworth of Betty-Rose Beauty Boutique, Lancashire, showcases the process of painting Morgan Freeman on nails.

“Character nail art offers a vibrant canvas for self-expression, suitable for a spectrum of occasions, from themed parties or holidays to everyday wear.” >>

Steffi Jasmine Fernandez SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55

NAILINSPO

Do’s

“Practice on paper, full cover nail tips and a practice hand to gain 1confidence before working on clients. Using tips gives you the flexibility to move the nail as you paint, but a client won’t necessarily have this flexibility, so a practice hand will feel more realistic.” Hannah Smith “Master line work, in particular the creation of thin, 2clean lines for outlining characters. Your lines will become thicker or uneven if a ball of gel builds on your brush, so practice twisting and pulling your brush through the gel to give it a well-loaded but thin coat of product. Next, work on the pressure; the less pressure you Melanie Garlick use, the thinner your line.”

Melanie Garlick of Haus of Cruelty Free Clawz, Lincolnshire & Lecenté creator “Work on making your characters’ proportions 3accurate.

If one aspect is out of place, the entire design can look wrong. Patience is your best friend for achieving this, and I would suggest attending a character nail art workshop to learn others’ tips for Scarlett Senter perfecting this.”

Scarlett Senter, multi award-winning nail artist

4

“Play with colour and create custom mixes if required.

This will make it easier to create exact colour matches and ensure your designs are true to character.” Laura Chree

5

“To avoid colour bleeding or smudging, flash cure each shade application before adding the next layer.”

Steffi Jasmine Fernandez

6 “Use your chosen top coat to blend colours Emma Laverton

for a more realistic finish. My character work totally transformed once blending clicked for me.” Emma Laverton of Fáilte Fae & Glitterbels ambassador

The GelBottle Inc Nail Art Palette £6.75 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Touch-activated and with 360° movement, the Gelish Touch LED Light is designed for flash curing.

Available for £99.99 + VAT via www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.nailharmonyuk.co.uk www.salon-services.com

Don’ts

Scarlett Senter paints 2D sketches of eight Disney characters on nails.

Beginner “Simple colour palette characters, like Mickey Mouse or Betty Boop, are great for beginners to create,” notes Emma Laverton. “Breaking characters down into geometric shapes can make the creative process less overwhelming.

For example, Mickey Mouse is comprised of three black circles, then an oval with tall bunny ears for the lighter part of his face.”

Lecenté creator, Amanda Trivett, agrees, adding: “Beginners should keep it simple by creating 2D figures on nails. The older Disney characters, such as Mickey and Minnie Mouse and Goofy, make Amanda Trivett a great starting point. As they are two-dimensional, they require line work rather than complex shading.”

Hannah Smith suggests silhouette creation as another way for techs to build their character nail art confidence. “The most important thing is to have patience. We all started somewhere, so don’t compare yourself to anyone else and enjoy the process of improving,” she shares.

“I’d advise choosing a forwardfacing or side profile figure if starting out on your character nail art journey,” notes Gemma Dawson, The World’s Star Nail Artist finalist for 2023 & HD Pro Nails Gemma Dawson ambassador. “This means that you don’t have the added pressure of achieving an angled face.”

1 “The biggest character art issues are incorrect scaling

and proportions. The best way to avoid these is to not skip the basics, by completing each step your training taught you. Many techs aren’t precise with the scaling down from a reference picture to the nail, and once you become more advanced, it’s easy to get complacent.

Rachel Shuttleworth However, a set nail routine will ensure accurate results.”

Rachel Shuttleworth

2 “Don’t apply product too thickly, as it may wrinkle.”

Scarlett Senter

3 “It’s easy to get carried away with nail art, but don’t do too much. If

you’re not sure whether to add to your character design, I recommend taking a photo or video of it, to see it through fresh eyes. You’ll then know if it needs tweaking.” Vicky Bancroft

56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

With a straightforward colour palette, The Aristocats makes for paw-some character inspiration for beginners, as Magpie Beauty educator, Anona Grice, shows.

NAILINSPO Take a moment, dear reader, to be inspired by the Queen Charlotte: A Bridgerton Storyinspired artistry of Emma Laverton.

Pricing “Price depending on time, as character painting is time-consuming,” advises Michelle Brookes. “Generally, clients opt for a character on a feature nail on each hand, then some basic art on the remaining nails. However, if a client wants a character on every nail, they need to expect to be paying for several hours’ work.” While taking time into consideration, techs must also factor their skills, training and USP into their pricing, shares Rachel Shuttleworth.

“Character nail art is a speciality; can anyone else provide what you do in your area? If not, you’re unique and must charge accordingly,” she notes.

Advanced

Melanie Garlick mixes a magical concoction of Lecenté products and skill to create this Bellatrix Lestrange design.

“Shading and highlighting take character looks to an advanced level,” reveals Melanie Garlick. To achieve great shading, the pro recommends taking your chosen shading colour and blending it with a base coat to make a thinner version of the colour. “Use the same technique for highlights, and apply a pure white shade in small areas for a more intense highlight,” she says. “Once you have mastered cartoon style characters, you can transfer your skillset to create portraits.”

Shaafia Latif of UK press-on business, Nails By Shaafia, details the difference between wet and dry blending for adding shading and highlights to characters. “Wet blending can be compared to creating an ombré with two gel polishes, blending them until they fade into one another,” she explains. “This is more complex than dry blending and must be done on a smaller scale, for example to create the Shaafia Latif effect of light hitting the bridge of a nose. Dry blending, on the other hand, refers to applying wet gel over a cured layer and blending the colour into the background. I use this when adding blush to characters.”

“I recommend that nail artists charge £1 per minute for character nail art at a minimum,” says Leila Monroy, Light Elegance educator. “I find Leila Monroy a character will take about 15 minutes to create, depending on its complexity, but a treatment price also needs to charge at least enough to cover wages, product, bills and an artist’s skills.”

“It works well to be transparent and upfront with your pricing,” comments Gemma Dawson. “Techs often ask me how realistic it is to achieve a detailed character look in the salon, and my answer is that if you are clear with its required time and cost, there will be people willing to sit for that result and people who aren’t.”

The Manicure Company Ombré Nail Art Brush £10.57 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com

Gemma Dawson transports us to a kingdom far, far away with this Shrek design.

Winnie the Pooh is brought to life on nails by Gelish educator, Amy Martin.

Vicky Bancroft shares how she built up shading and highlights to paint a Mariah Carey portrait on a nail.

Dates for the diary

• 2 November: Gelish Christmas Design Workshop with Rhiannon Gilfillan. Email: rgilfillan@nailalliance.co.uk • 5 November – 3 December: Free Christmas character and 3D workshops with Gemma Dawson.

Watch via her Instagram account: @gemma_dawson_nailartist.

• 19 November: Gelish Christmas Design Workshop with Becca Butterworth. Email: bbutterworth@nailalliance.co.uk • 4 December: Gelish Christmas Design Workshop with Amy Martin. Email: amartin@nailalliance.co.uk

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 57

o t w Ho

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

Hair & beauty business coach, MADDI COOK, shares top tips to elevate your offerings & enhance your profits

HOW YOUR BUSINESS CAN MAKE THE MOST OF THE FESTIVE SEASON

About Maddi

Maddi Cook is the owner of Boss Your Salon, which helps empower hair and beauty pros to price perfectly, set boundaries and grow without burnout. She strives to ‘put more money into the pockets of the hair and beauty industry’ and believes that business growth is for everyone.

Maddi has worked with over 15,000 hair and beauty pros, on her mission to change how the industry values itself. She believes that money is an amplifier; meaning that more money allows workers to do great things: for themselves, their family and their community.

Maddi was a finalist in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023 for Services To The Nail Industry.

W

hat’s that tinkling piano? Yes, it’s only November, but Mariah is limbering up and getting ready to sweep through every speaker over the next six weeks.

The festive season brings not only our favourite bangers, but also a surge in peoples’ spending habits. As a nail boss, this time is a golden opportunity to grow your business and bottom line. Here’s how you can make the most of it...

Embrace the festive spirit

The Christmas season is the most wonderful time of the year, so immerse yourself in the festive spirit. Dig out twinkly lights and ribbons, and pop a tiny tree on your desk. Play your favourite festive tunes to get yourself and your clients in the mood.

Maximise on peoples’ spending habits

The festive season is synonymous with gift giving and treating your nearest and dearest.

Offer gift vouchers, Christmas-themed nail art, gift sets, themed cuticle oils or even group packages to get your clients party-ready. Tap into their spending habits by creating irresistible offers that keep your schedule busy and clients feeling pampered through to the new year.

“This season can be Organise your calendar ahead of time Plan your December schedule meticulously. unpredictable. Last-minute A well organised calendar means you can cancellations, changes in client accommodate as many clients as possible, burning out. Give yourself plenty of time requests or stock disruptions can without for Christmas jumper nails, book a lunch break throw a spanner in the works. and get your clients to plan their art ahead of time, so your days can run smoothly.

Stay adaptable and embrace Spruce up your social media pages the unexpected.”

So many people love to feel festive, so post www.bossyoursalon.com /bossyoursalon @bossyoursalon 58 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

your content with Christmas tunes, gifs and countdowns. Pop your Santa hat on, switch on the fairy lights and show your followers your grotto – sorry – I mean, workplace. Bonus points if you spend the end of November getting your posts scheduled ahead of the busy season!

Do your future self a solid

For a lot of nail bosses, January can be a quiet month. Don’t get caught up in feeling so rushed, that you forget to re-book your client’s next appointment before they leave. Make sure you’re also making it easy for them to book, with clear instructions on your social platforms, and reminders set up on your booking software.

Prepare for the unexpected

This season can be unpredictable. Last-minute cancellations, changes in client requests or stock disruptions can throw a spanner in the works.

Stay adaptable and embrace the unexpected.

Make plans A, B and C, and try to stock up and prepare as much as you can.

The giving season

The true spirit of the festive season is all about giving and sharing. Think about being a drop-off point for toys for your local women’s refuge, or donate a portion of your gift set sales to your favourite charity. You can use my pricing calculator, ‘Boss Your Profits’, to factor a ‘charity budget’ into your prices for next year. Just visit www.bossyoursalon.com/bossyourprofits.

Don’t leave yourself as an afterthought

The Christmas rush can be overwhelming, so don’t forget to take care of yourself. Burnout is a creativity killer, and your confidence and capacity may suffer if you’re feeling run down. Most nail bosses miss out on snowy shenanigans because they’re so busy in the winter months. Book a festive afternoon tea and do secret Santa with your pals.

To ‘wrap’ up...

Use any time now wisely, by scheduling your social media posts and doing a quick audit to make sure your followers and clients can easily find the information they need. Give yourself some time for something more substantial than a handful of Celebrations chocolates and take care of yourself, so you can take care of your clients. Don’t forget, you’re allowed to enjoy your own festive fun along the way!

Maddi x

‘’ I tried dip powders, HEMA-FREE, and other hypoallergenic products but nothing worked. Your Zero Gel Polish is such a fantastic product I wanted to tell you how it’s changed everything for me.’’

‘’ After becoming allergic to gel polish I thought my journey with gel was over. Along comes this new zero gel polish. I have suffered no reaction after using this highly pigmented polish.’’

- Lisa Marie K

- Susan H

AVAILABLE NOW ONLINE AND IN STORE

www.capitalhairandbeauty.co.uk

Tech for TECH-NOLOGY

Techs

REBECCA HITCHON gets the scoop on high-tech launches, decodes hot topics & sources tech-savvy tips for your business

AI guides for the nail & beauty industry Back in June, I explored how artificial intelligence (AI) chatbots, like ChatGPT, are influencing the nail and beauty sector. The response was largely positive: these tools are time-saving and can provide inspiration when you’re in a creative slump. But one disadvantage that kept presenting itself was that if used in the wrong way, AI can bring a lack of personal touch, as well as clarity and professionalism, to your business’ online presence.

Millee Barton, Glitterbels ambassador & owner of Millee Barton Nails & Beauty & The Academy Barnsley, is on a mission to help nail and beauty pros avoid just that, with the launch of artificial intelligence guides. “I was inspired to create these because I believe that the integration of AI technology can revolutionise the nail and beauty industry,” she tells Scratch.

Millee Barton “AI has not only helped me to streamline my salon practices, but has sparked endless creative ideas, making my work more exciting.

“I’m dedicated to empowering and inspiring other professionals to unlock the full potential of AI to elevate their businesses, by demystifying this technology and providing practical insights and real-life examples.”

Aimed at both seasoned professionals and industry newcomers, Millee feels that the online guides are needed to fill a knowledge gap and make AI more accessible to nail and beauty businesses, so they can gain a competitive edge. “The process of creating these guides has been both rewarding and challenging, as finding information on this subject for the nail and beauty industry has been a struggle,” she reveals. “I’ve carried out extensive research, collaborated with AI experts and refined complex concepts into easy-to-understand content. I’ve also drawn from my own experiences with AI in my salon and training academy.”

Millee shares the following examples of topics included in the guides: • Social media management: Learn how to leverage AI to boost your online presence and engage with clients effectively on social media.

• AI-driven personalisation: Discover how to enhance the client experience through tailored recommendations and services.

• Streamlining salon operations: Get to grips with automating booking systems, streamlining inventory management and optimising appointment scheduling.

• Creative AI applications: Learn how AI can inspire and assist you in crafting unique nail and beauty designs, helping you stand out from the competition.

• AI in education: Educators, explore how to incorporate AI into your curriculum, to empower future beauty professionals with the latest technologies.

A SNEAK PEEK

Millee shares a snippet from one of the guides, which gives an example of an AI-generated social media caption and details why it should be avoided...

“Get ready to nail it with our amazing nail art! #NailArtGoals #SalonLife” While this caption appears generic and overly enthusiastic, it also lacks the personal touch and authenticity that beauty professionals should aim for in their social media content. Here are some reasons why this caption may not be ideal: 1. Lack of personalisation: The caption doesn’t reflect the unique style or personality of the salon. It’s a generic statement that could apply to any nail business.

2. Overused hashtags: The use of popular, overused hashtags like #NailArtGoals may not effectively target the salon’s specific audience or help the post to stand out.

3. Lack of storytelling: Effective social media captions often tell a story or share an experience. This caption merely promotes the service without creating a meaningful connection with the audience.

60 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TECH-NOLOGY

“I’m dedicated to empowering and inspiring other professionals to unlock the full potential of AI to elevate their businesses.”

“To help nail and beauty professionals avoid the pitfalls demonstrated in the example when using AI to generate social media captions, the guides feature sections on authenticity and reflecting your unique brand identity and values, as well as targeted hashtags that are relevant to your audience,” Millee continues. “In addition, there is advice on storytelling to engage and connect with followers, and reviewing and editing captions to align with your business’ voice and goals.”

The pro is committed to ensuring the nail and beauty community stays at the forefront of AI innovation, with big plans for the future.

“These guides represent the beginning of my exploration into the benefits and applications of AI. Expect more guides, workshops and collaborative initiatives aimed at advancing the use of AI in our industry,” she smiles. “I also hope to establish a community of beauty professionals who are passionate about AI, to foster a network for knowledge exchange and innovation.”

The first collection of AI guides is available via www.milleebarton.com Follow Millee: /milleebartonnails @heyitsmillee

NEWS BYTE Benefit Cosmetics has launched the AI-powered Pore Analysis Tool (P.A.T), in partnership with beauty and fashion tech solutions provider, Perfect Corp. Available via a free smartphone and computer app, the device’s camera scans the user’s face in real time, measuring clogged pores, pore size and uneven texture.

The results give insight into potential causes of concern and provide personalised product recommendations.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61

TECHSPOTLIGHT

It’s A Shaw Thing “

T

Be inspired by the career journey of IKISHA SHAW, a talented pro who combines top-notch services with clever branding opportunities & creates unforgettable experiences for clients

he only limits we have are the ones we set for ourselves in our minds,” believes Ikisha Shaw, and this philosophy has led the driven nail pro to set up a successful home studio in Cambridge, work with brands including Pandora and Tommy Hilfiger, and amass a pool of adoring clients during her 14-year career.

Her industry journey began at The Beauty Academy, Cambridge, where she enrolled on a training programme. She later discovered nail art brand, WAH Nails London, on Tumblr, and joined the creative team in 2014, working on brand collaborations and teaching nail art masterclasses. Fuelled by a desire to progress and expand her skillset, Ikisha furthered her education with an online course led by Marian Newman, before training with The GelBottle Inc and setting up home studio, I Shaw Love Nails, in 2020.

“I’m a creative and ambitious person who loves learning new skills and finding ways to make my work, and my clients’ experiences, better,” Ikisha shares. “My friends and clients say I’m easy to talk to, reliable, and really good at what I do. My goal is to give a great service and ensure that every client is happy with their nails.”

62 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Ikisha provides nail art and nailcare treatments, from manicures to gel polish overlays, BIAB™ offerings, sculpted gel extensions and wedding nails, primarily using The GelBottle Inc products. “I Shaw Love Nails is committed to encouraging everyone to embrace their love for unique nail art, by providing high-end nailcare through an experiential connection and unforgettable experience,” she continues.

“Nail art is a great way for clients to express themselves and show off their personality. It’s not just about the look; it’s also about the feel. When clients see their nails transformed into tiny works of art, it boosts their confidence and elevates their mood. Plus, it’s a fun and therapeutic experience.”

Treatments take place from a chic and contemporary home studio setup, which has a sleek grey palette and modern furniture. The walls showcase I Shaw Love Nails branding, and a photography station allows clients to snap a perfect shot of their nail finish. To aid comfort, drinks are offered from a coffee machine and mini fridge.

“When I set up my home salon, I was driven by a passion for nail art and desire to create a personalised, comfortable setting for clients,” Ikisha reveals. “As soon as the door closes, the

TECHSPOTLIGHT

“When clients see their nails transformed into tiny works of art, it boosts their confidence and elevates their mood.” space offers a haven from the outside world, making it a special destination for those seeking top-notch nailcare and relaxation. I offer both chatty and quiet sessions, as well as evening bookings, to accommodate all client needs.”

However, Ikisha admits that setting up a home salon wasn’t without its challenges.

“Balancing work and home life in the same space was tough initially. I had to set strict boundaries to ensure a professional environment for clients. It also took time to build a steady client base, but I now welcome many working professionals from diverse backgrounds, who value highquality nail services and appreciate a modern salon environment.” he nail stylist is supported by business partner, Rashaad Noray, who joined I Shaw Love Nails in 2022 to run its day-to-day operations and bolster its success. He spearheads a multi-faceted marketing strategy, maintaining a user-friendly website with an online booking option and blog offering nailcare tips and trends.

“My future goal is for I Shaw Love Nails to become a household name in the nail industry, renowned for quality, innovation and community engagement,” Ikisha reveals. “On a general note, I think the industry would benefit from encouraging people of all backgrounds, ethnicities, genders and orientations to join. Greater diversity means more creativity and fresh ideas, which is good for everyone.

“Customers are more informed than ever and open to nail art, which is pushing nail artists like me to up our game. It’s exciting to be part of an industry that’s constantly evolving.” www.ishawlovenails.co.uk /ishawlovenails

@ishawlovenails

What’s in a name?

“The logo for I Shaw Love Nails encapsulates a deep narrative,” shares Ikisha. “The ‘I’ represents my first name, while ‘Shaw’ is my surname. We collaborated with Hadeel Sayed Ahmad, a strategic brand designer & consultant, to craft a logo that epitomises the brand’s ethos. The heart merges with the letter ‘S’ for Shaw. The diamond at the top, resembling a crown, underscores our tagline of giving clients ‘The Royal Treatment’.

Signature styling “A frequently requested nail style in the salon is a classic French manicure, which I often personalise with the signature I Shaw Love Nails royal heart logo,” shares Ikisha. “This combination of traditional elegance and unique branding resonates with our clients, making it a popular choice.”

The addition of the business logo has a number of benefits for Ikisha and her business. “By featuring the logo within nail designs, a sense of exclusivity is created,” she reveals. “It becomes a signature style that’s unique to our salon, and reminds both the wearer and observer of the experience, service quality, and values of I Shaw Love Nails.

“A brand is not just a name or a logo; it’s an emotion. By placing the logo on nails, we aim to build a deeper emotional connection with our clients. It’s a reminder that they’re not just getting a service, but becoming part of a larger community that values aesthetics and quality. The logo on nails is also a topic of conversation, allowing for organic, word-ofmouth marketing. Every compliment or inquiry can lead to a potential new customer.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 63

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

The

effect Halo VIP, HARI HATFIELD, shares how to create a fairy light design that’s fitting for festivities, using the Halo Gel Polish Sparkle Season collection

ABOUT HARI

After attaining a nail qualification in October 2020, Hari set up a home salon space in Telford, Shropshire, offering nail services on a part-time basis. Her gel polish artistry caught the eye of the Pure Nails team, and she became a Halo VIP in January 2021, balancing her love for nails alongside a full-time position in dentistry. In May 2021, Hari began offering beginner and advanced gel polish courses from the salon where she undertook her initial training. After welcoming twins in June 2022, and following 10 years in the dental industry, she made the decision to focus solely on her nail business. /nailsbyharieva

1

3

2

4

3

55

7 Halo Gel Polish in Dazzle £5.95 + VAT

Step 2 Use a fine nail art brush and Halo Gel Polish in Black to paint a swirly line onto the nail, from the base to the tip. Cure.

Step 3 Paint dots that are evenly spaced along the black line, using a dotting tool and Halo Gel Polish in Gala.

Do not cure.

@nailsby_harieva Halo EasiBuild in Cover-Up Pink £15.75 + VAT

Step 1 Prep the nails for Halo Gel Polish application. Apply Halo Base Coat or EasiBuild and cure. For this look, EasiBuild in Cover-Up Pink has been used.

6

Step 4 Using a thin liner brush, drag the dots at one end to create teardrops, forming the shapes of the fairy light bulbs. Cure.

Step 5 Repeat steps 3 and 4 using Halo Gel Polish shades, Dazzle and Party.

Evenly space the shades across the black line. Cure.

Step 6 Using a thin liner brush and Halo Gel Polish in French White, add a small stroke to each of the Gala teardrops for a glistening effect. Cure, then apply your chosen Halo Gel Polish Top Coat. Cure and apply cuticle oil to finish.

Halo Gel Polish in Gala £5.95 + VAT

Halo products are available via www.purenails.co.uk and associated stockists. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk @purenailsuk Halo Gel Polish in Party £5.95 + VAT 64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

@purenailsuk

NOT JUST A STOCKING FILLER s across As seen in salon dwide! the UK and worl

Save The Stress.

Save Your Nails. keysieco.com keysieco

Keysie Co

NAILCOMPETITION

ART OF CLASS Discover who scooped top titles in Nailympia London 2023’s online competitions & check out the winning creations In next month’s issue, Scratch will showcase the winners of the Nailympia London arena categories.

Nailympia London’s nine online competitions were extremely popular for 2023, with 323 entries judged by 29 judges from all corners of the globe. The most popular categories for this year were Runway Nails (57), Extreme Poster Styling (53), Invent A Nail Shape (52) and Reality Nails (51).

Each category welcomed striking entries, and it took the judging panel 10 days to complete their scores. “The Nailympia team was thrilled at the quality of entries, and the imagination showcased has been astonishing and gifted. The nail industry is pushing creative boundaries on every level and showing the wider beauty world that it is a force to be reckoned with, when it comes to blending creative expression with skills and nail product innovations,” enthuses organiser, Alex Fox. The first-place entries have been showcased here, however images of entries for each category are available to view on the Nailympia website: www.nailympia.com.

With a total of 34 countries represented, this year’s Nailympia London was a huge success, as it blended nine online competitions with nine arena categories hosted by Olympia Beauty at ExCel, London.

RUNWAY NAILS

Division 1

1st - Camelia Ionelia Burlacu - UK 2nd - Sophia Howard - UK 3rd - Theresa Nguyen-Le - USA

66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Division 2

1st - Jamie-Lee Donnelly - UK 2nd - Anna Sosina - USA 3rd - Barbara Szollosi - Hungary

Division 3

1st - Petra Szabo - Hungary 2nd - Mino Vo - UK 3rd - Silvia Gago López - Spain

NAILCOMPETITION

REALITY NAILS

Division 1

Division 2

1st - Jamie-Lee Donnelly - UK 2nd - Marika Dimitrovska - UK 3rd - Barbara Szollosi - Hungary

1st - Theresa Nguyen-Le - USA 2nd - Kate Pham - USA 3rd - Trang Anh Hood - USA

Division 3

1st - Deborah Cocco - Italy 2nd - Petra Szabo - Hungary 3rd - Mino Vo - UK

“The nail industry is pushing creative boundaries on every level and showing the wider beauty world that it is a force to be reckoned with, when it comes to blending creative expression with skills and nail product innovations.”

INVENT A NAIL SHAPE

Division 1

1st - Nozi Brandel - Israel 2nd - Nicole Vassallo - Australia 3rd - Trang Anh Hood - USA

Division 2

1st - Mariana Costirco - UK 2nd - Lyubov Tudakova - Russian Federation 3rd - Marika Dimitrovska - UK

Division 3

1st - Mino Vo - UK 2nd - Annie Pham - UK 3rd - Loi Van Nguyen - UK

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 67

>>

NAILCOMPETITION

FLAT ART

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Olivia Castillo - Philippines 2nd - Ngoc Pham - New Zealand 3rd - Jimmy Bui - UK

1st - Emma Laverton - UK 3rd - Jamie-Lee Donnelly - UK

1st - Ismael Camero - Mexico 2nd - Giulia Rebellato - Italy 3rd - Nicolas Paggi - Argentina

MIXED MEDIA ART

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Orsolya Dobos - Hungary 2nd - Mei Kwan Leung - Australia 3rd - Jimmy Bui - UK

1st - Barbara Szollosi - Hungary 2nd - Nami Suetake - Japan 3rd - Sandie Jelsborg - Denmark

1st - Ismael Camero - Mexico 2nd - Alessandra Pizzari - Italy 3rd - Vanessa Grossi - Italy

EXTREME NAIL POSTER STYLING

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Cintia Komenda - Hungary 2nd - Dominika Baki - Poland 3rd - Ekaterina Moor - Russian Federation

1st - Federica Rubeca - Italy 2nd - Barbara Csicsay - Slovakia 3rd - Mariana Costirco - UK

1st - Melinda Tamas - Hungary 2nd - Éva Pásztorné Balog - Hungary 3rd - Georgina Takács - UK

68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

NAILCOMPETITION

ART ON NAILS OVER 2 INCHES

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Hoa Mai Tran - Australia 2nd - Nicole Vassallo - Australia 3rd - Anikó Henriett Széll - Hungary

1st - Mariana Costirco - UK 2nd - Ildikó Mihály - Hungary 3rd - Ann Nguyen - Australia

1st - Loi Van Nguyen - UK 2nd - Silvia Gago López - Spain 3rd - Mino Vo - UK

POSTER MANICURE

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Viktória Kolarics - Hungary 2nd - Ildikó Járfás - Hungary 3rd - Edina Botos - Hungary

1st - Adrienn Barta - Hungary 2nd - Anita Mónika Kovács - Hungary 3rd - Laura Pote - UK

1st - Laura Családi - Hungary 2nd - Marta Kolodziejczyk - Poland 3rd - Réka Oláh - Hungary SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69

>>

NAILCOMPETITION

DESIGN NAILS FOR A ‘ROCK ‘N ROLL’ ALBUM COVER

Division 1

Division 2

Division 3

1st - Camelia Ionelia Burlacu - UK 2nd - Maayan Karchevski - Israel 3rd - Anikó Henriett Széll - Hungary

1st - Mónika Kis-Szlavenka - Hungary 2nd - Maria Isabel Cubano - USA 3rd - Edit Leszkoczi - Hungary

1st - Nicolas Paggi - Argentina 2nd - Silvia Gago López - Spain 3rd - Laura Családi - Hungary

Thank you to the online judges Marian Newman (UK), Viv Clements-Simmonds (AUS), Vitaly Solomonoff (USA), Zrinka Vuksan (Croatia/Canada), Samantha Goddard (AUS), Stefanie Lo Re (Germany), Viktoria Kysil (Ukraine), Rachel Stevens (NZ), Oana Flutur (Romania), Milena Mingozzi (Italy), MaeLing Parrish (USA), Lourdes Desfassiaux (Mexico), Lauren Wireman (USA), Celina Rydén (Sweden), Beth Livesay (USA), Giselle Caballero (Mexico/ Canada), Serge Korchagin (USA), Catherine Wong (Singapore), Cheryl Thibault (Canada), Elaine Watson (USA), Genevieve Bresil (France), Gergana Bangeeva (Bulgaria), Guin Deadman-Littlefield (USA), Jan Arnold (USA), Karin Ström (Sweden), Amanda Niarhos (AUS), Kelly Melanitou (Greece), Lisa Boone (USA), Maisie Dunbar (USA).

Thank you to the Nailympia sponsors & partners: In association with:

Partners:

70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

Sponsors:

R

E F F O L A SPECI

K C A L B Y A D I FR WAS

£39 SAVE £15 ON A 12-MONTH PRINT SUBSCRIPTION!

NOW

£24!

USE CODE: BFSCRATCH WWW.SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK/STORE VALID ON SUBSCRIPTIONS TO UK POSTAL ADDRESSES, 24-27.11.23

NAILTRAINING

Purely Pro Join CALLIE ILEY as she embarks on her professional nail journey with Pure Nails It’s hard for me to pinpoint exactly when my personal nail and beauty journey began, because, like so many of the techs I’ve spoken to throughout my time at Scratch, I showed interest in products from an early age. In the early 2000s, I was fascinated by Barbie, Hello Kitty and Groovy Chick. A hot pink make-up flip phone and crackle nail polishes were staples in my beauty collection.

I began experimenting with more alternative nail and beauty styles when I was 11 or 12, sporting black or gunmetal grey nails, often alongside thick, black winged eyeliner. In short, nails and beauty have always been a big part of my life and identity and, through working at Scratch, I expressed a desire to professionally train in nail product application.

I enrolled on a two-day beginners course with Pure Nails’ affiliate training academy, Totally Polished. Prior to the course, I immersed in training manuals, then began the journey from London to Newcastle for practical training in Halo Gel Polish and EasiBuild application courtesy of educators, Tina Bell and Nicole Dowling.

DAY 1

The first day of the course kicked off at 10am, and I arrived at the Totally Polished premises eager to begin. I was joined by another student, and following introductions – to each other, the team, the salon and academy, Tina and Nicole imparted their knowledge of salon hygiene and safety practices, nail anatomy and client consultations. Also discussed were common natural nail concerns and how to identify them.

Next, we focused on Halo Gel Polish application, using an unforgiving red shade. I’m a perfectionist, so was nervous about the task. I think I did quite a good job applying it neatly, but I was definitely holding my breath the entire time! We finished up with Halo Top Coat for a gorgeously glossy finish, discussing the differences between the top coats available via Pure Nails as the product cured in the lamp.

72 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

We then moved on to nail prep, including cuticle work and shaping. I discovered my love for thorough cuticle work; it’s so satisfying! We prepped the nails of practice hands and jumped straight into base coat application, where we learned about the Halo Gel Polish base coat offerings and how they differ.

It was really interesting to learn about how to use the different products to best suit a range of nail types, and applying the base coat was simpler than I had anticipated. I was worried that its clear finish would make it difficult to see where it was applied, but good lighting allowed the product to shine.

Nailing gel polish application on a practice hand is one thing, but getting it right on a human being is another. After some practice on ourselves, the other student and I worked on each other. We prepped two nails each, before applying a base coat selected to suit a nail type suggested by Tina and Nicole. This was followed by the application of red gel polish and a suitable top coat to finish the look. Towards the end of the day, we removed the gel polish we had applied on ourselves, ahead of EasiBuild training the following day.

NAILTRAINING

DAY 2

When I felt confident in my EasiBuild application, I tried out the product on my own nails, using the Cover-Up Pink shade.

I found it harder to work on my own hand, as it was challenging at times to manoeuvre it into the best position during prep and application. It definitely made for some laughs seeing the strange positions I was trying to force my fingers into, but despite this, I believe I did a fairly good job.

On the second day of training, we became familiar with Halo EasiBuild. I immediately noticed the difference in consistency between the formula and Halo Gel Polish, and the application technique reflected this, as EasiBuild requires thicker application. Joined by a third student, we practiced application techniques on the practice hands and studied how the product moves and settles, before moving on to tip application and EasiBuild overlay on tips.

We then learned how to maintain and rebalance EasiBuild, before it was time for a greater challenge – to create an ombré nail finish using the product. This was definitely the biggest challenge for me across the two days, and I would have spent hours trying to perfect the blend on the practice tip if Tina and Nicole had allowed for it! It turned out better than I expected, but I need to keep practicing. We finished the day by exploring safe product removal, then boarded the train home.

Naturally, I put my student kits to the test immediately when I returned home. I tested out Halo’s Rubber Base Coat, Gel Polish in Red and Non-Wipe Top Coat on myself, before asking my sister to lend me her hand to practice my newfound EasiBuild application skills. We’re hoping that her natural nails will grow longer and stronger under the protection of EasiBuild, and I am excited to support her nail journey. My next steps include plenty of practice, before I start dabbling with nail art and designs.

I left Newcastle with significantly more than I arrived with: two huge Pure Nails student kits that were full to the brim with everything I need to continue my nail journey, and two shiny certificates to show I completed my training.

For more information about Pure Nails products & training, visit www.purenails.co.uk /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk @purenailsuk

@purenailsuk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 73

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST

MAKING MOVES WITH

o V o n i M Immerse in competition news & nail tales from master nail stylist, MINO VO

WINNER ABOUT MINO VO Mino Vo is ‘The Avant-Garde Nail Artist’, a multi award-winning nail aficionado with over 60 competition titles under his belt. An international educator, he travels the world teaching nail services and extreme shapes, and has developed a variety of nail tools to support his work and that of fellow nail pros.

Mino runs a salon and academy in north London. He won the L&P Tech of the Year and The Shooting Star Award categories in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023.

L

International teaching & a return to competing

ast month, I travelled to Barcelona to teach at Nail Camp BCN, hosted by Mario Utassy and Orsi Dobos. Mario and Orsi have such a positive energy, and many students return year after year because the duo offers such a great education experience, at which high-level educators are invited to teach.

This was my second time at Nail Camp BCN and I taught my signature shape, Mexico, which gives students the foundation to be imaginative and create their own shapes. One of my students, Mariana Costirco, who has mastered my Avant-Garde technique, assisted me at this class.

Joining me to teach at Nail Camp BCN were Orsi Dobos of Uñas de Orsi, the Újvári twins, Anna Popova and Monika Urantówka. The event

Students of Nail Camp BCN.

74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

With Mariana Costirco at Nail Camp BCN.

was hosted at a hotel, and each educator taught their speciality technique. Students also got the chance to enjoy a small holiday, as the hotel is located minutes from a beach. My favourite thing about Nail Camp BCN is its international nature, as students travel from across the world to learn and make new connections.

Recently, I also had the pleasure of inviting Gosha Walczak, distributor for SPN Nails UK, to London to teach her project manicure class. I have taken the course in the past and would describe it as a modern approach to the traditional combined manicure. The students learned how to create gel overlays on natural nails and perfect gel polish application.

In order to prepare for Nailympia San Antonio in October, my student, Katie Nguyen, travelled from the United States for a private competition class. We focused on the small details, because she was competing in division 3. She used the knowledge that I have taught her over the past year, and won 10 medals in the competition. She was also named Overall Individual Top Scorer. Katie has grown so much in such a short amount of time, and Nailympia San Antonio marked her second competition.

I returned to the competition arena at Nailympia London after a year’s break from competing. I had a few goals for

SCRATCHCOLUMNIST the competition, including taking home at least three cups and four medals, but the main one was to showcase the growth I have made in the last year. I spent months preparing, and had many sleepless nights.

I exceeded my expectations by winning Top UK Tech (division 3), Art Winner of Winners (division 3) and Overall Individual Top Scorer, and I achieved five medals. My team also triumphed, as Annie Pham took home her first division 3 medal, winning silver in the Invent a Nail Shape category.

My mentor, Olena Oezman, won the fifth Global Cup, becoming the first pro to scoop the title two years in a row. Mariana Costirco won Winner of Winners and Top UK Tech for division 2, and was also awarded many medals.

My nail family at Nailympia London: Annie Pham, Olena Oezman and Mariana Costirco.

My Fantasy Complete Look entry (division 3) at Nailympia London, with the theme of ‘age of the dinosaurs’. It scooped a silver medal.

Top UK Tech winners in divisions 1, 2 and 3 at Nailympia London.

This month, I created this stiletto style during training with Olena Oezman.

“I had a few goals for the competition, including taking home at least three cups and four medals, but the main one was to showcase the growth I have made in the last year.”

My entry for the Invent a Nail Shape division 3 category at Nailympia London, which won first place.

Focusing on the task at hand in the Nailympia London arena.

Student spotlight

Andrew Chuong

Andrew Chuong first came to me over a year ago.

Although he had many years of experience, he had some bad habits. After a private course with me, Andrew was able to fix his mistakes and is now one of the most booked technicians in his salon.

What I love most about Andrew is his attention to detail. He sculpted his first Avant-Garde nail in one of my classes in London, and decided that he would decorate it in his own time to make it unique. As a result, he created a very special piece of work.

Coming up...

Now that Nailympia London has finished, I have a very busy schedule, with classes in Seattle and Chile. I will also be teaching at Nail Safari in November, an education event at Shepreth Wildlife Park.

An Asian-themed Avant-Garde nail

by Andrew Chuong, created in one of my London classes. www.minovolondon.uk /miakonomo /minovolondon @minovolondon @minovolondon

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 75

SALONSPOTLIGHTS

Through the

Keyhole

Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK&I as Scratch unlocks each door…

Nina Aesthetics & Beauty

Location: Liverpool

Nina Feeney has enjoyed over 16 years in the beauty industry, overcoming a fear of needles to complete aesthetics training, fuelled by encouragement from her late mum. “I passed a number of training courses before my mum died, and I turned my pain into passion, completing further education and developing my home salon business,” Nina explains.

The Nina Aesthetics & Beauty salon premises was built during the first lockdown by Nina and her husband, and boasts a light, modern interior with monochromatic and leafy green details. “The space is calming, with chilled music played to relax clients,” Nina continues. “My clients love the salon, as they can enjoy one-to-one appointments with my full focus.”

The talented pro offers semi-permanent make-up services, alongside lash, wax and hair loss restoration treatments. From her nail desk, Nina transforms the nails of clients using acrylic, hard gel and builder gel, with a preference for Glitterbels products.

“I love that I can work from my own property and be my own boss,” Nina concludes. “I’ve achieved so many personal and professional goals and am happy to pamper such lovely clients – many of whom have become friends.” /ninaslashesandbeauty

@nina_aesthetics_beauty

Therapy

Location: Almondbury, Huddersfield

When Marie Holgate finished her GCSEs, she was unsure about her next steps.

“I had always taken care of my skin and nails, so when a friend recommended the White Rose School of Beauty in Huddersfield, I decided to enrol on a beauty therapy and nail technician course until I firmed up my future plans,” she explains. “I loved it more than anticipated and after three years, I completed further training at Halifax College.”

Marie went on to immerse in holistic therapy diplomas and trained with nail brands, OPI, EzFlow and Nails Inc. She worked in various salons before purchasing her own space, a former shop in Middlestown, Wakefield, in 2004. “I transformed the premises into a beauty and holistic salon, with big dreams and a handful of clients,” she continues. “I was 21 at the time and had no fear of failure. The journey wasn’t easy, but the salon became a big part of the community. I named it ‘Therapy’ as I believe this industry is more than treatments – it’s about a therapeutic relationship between the client and beauty therapist.”

Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup

Following 18 successful years in business, the impact of the lockdowns and recession led to Marie selling her salon premises and creating a setup in her garage. “My home salon faces a woodland, which gave me the inspiration for a green colour scheme, with fresh, calming vibes and a modern edge,” she explains. She offers OPI manicures and pedicures alongside enhancement services, with a choice of The GelBottle Inc, CND Shellac™ or EzFlow products.

“I love nature; it’s good for the mind and soul and I think it is of great benefit for clients to have their nails done while looking out onto trees, birds and, if we are lucky, blue skies.” @vicarage_150

76 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

P I E R C I N G YO U C A N T R U S T ™ FREE Training, FREE Marketing Assets, FREE Licence Support Contact us today to find out more STUDEX UK LTD. | studex@studexuk.co.uk | 01733 232350 | www.studexuk.com |

BUSINESSMATTERS

A FOCUS ON

franchising Are you considering franchising your nail salon – or do you want to benefit from an existing business model? CHLOE RANDALL explores franchising options & perks A whopping 85% of franchises are still in business after five years, compared to just 38% of independent start-ups, according to online sales website, Franchise Local. For budding nail and beauty business owners, this makes franchising a very attractive option for long-term success.

If you’re considering taking a step into salon management, but are cautious about starting from scratch, franchising could be an appealing idea.

What is a franchise?

A franchise is a business model in which an established company (the ‘franchisor’) grants an individual or another company (the ‘franchisee’) with the right to operate a business under its established brand name, systems and practices.

In this arrangement, the franchisee typically pays fees and royalties to the franchisor, in exchange for using their business concept, trademarks and ongoing support. Franchises are found across various industries, from fast food restaurants and retail outlets to hairdressers and beauty salons.

How does it work?

“There are a number of ways that franchises can be operated,” continues Jody Macmillan. “From an investor growing a portfolio of profitable businesses, to a handson franchisee involved in working alongside their team to deliver treatments. Some franchisees take a more strategic approach, managing and growing their business by employing people for the day-to-day admin and treatments.

It’s your business, so do it your way.”

Why run a franchise?

Denise Taylor

“Most professionals love the idea of owning and running a salon business, but have no idea where to start or how to make it a success,” comments Denise Taylor, managing director at Lemon Tree Nails & Beauty Ltd, which has salons in Cardiff, Totton, Bournemouth and New Milton.

“Franchisors help with locations and keeping costs down, and can also benefit from funding opportunities. There is a readymade appearance for franchise salons, making it easier to set up a business as there is a concept already in place.”

Jody Macmillan

“The beauty of joining a franchise, compared to starting out alone, means that you can turn to your franchisor for guidance and support,” adds Jody Macmillan, UK business development manager at N.Bar, a salon chain with premises in Essex and London.

FRANCHISEE SPOTLIGHT: Nicole Gooding, Lemon Tree Nails, Cardiff Nicole Gooding

“After finishing my GCSEs, I started A-Levels in Law and Art, yet my motivation dwindled and I wanted to do something creative to utilise my art skills.

“At the age of 18, I completed nail training with Lemon Tree Nails & Beauty Ltd. From there, I opened a Lemon Tree Nails salon, as I felt safe in the knowledge that I would receive any help I needed, and would be running a business that already had a logo, branding and great reputation.

“Following a discussion with the franchisor, it was decided that I would search for a location, and the franchisor supported with the décor, imagery and start-up needs. They helped with dealing with landlords and solicitors and arranged the lease for the property, and organised staff contracts and any training that was required. Setting up was made very easy with the franchisor’s knowledge, and following the start-up fee, I pay a monthly management fee based on takings.

“Everything I needed to set up a salon was arranged – from being added to the website, stationery and establishing the daily running of the salon, to taking appointments, managing staff and pay.

Nicole Gooding’s franchise of Lemon Tree Nails, Cardiff.

78 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“I considered the help I would receive when starting a franchise and knew that I really wanted to do something I enjoyed. Without the help and support of Lemon Tree Nails, I wouldn’t be where I am today.”

BUSINESSMATTERS The process & considerations “The location of the salon and the individual franchisee is key,” comments Amy Lewis, managing director at Mooeys, a group of six salons across Berkshire, West Sussex and Surrey.

“Mooeys works well in affluent market towns that have a strong commuter community.

There are certain property restrictions and Amy Lewis expectations for running a franchise, however we like for each franchisee to put their own stamp on the design and feel of their salon.

“When it comes to the individual, it isn’t necessary to have experience in the industry, as we teach everything the franchisee needs to know about running the business and a team. They don’t need to be a hands-on owner, delivering treatments, but an ‘operator owner’, managing the staffing and financial side of the business.

“The most important thing for me as a franchisor is that the franchisee cares. I can only work with people who care about their team, service and standards, and making others feel great. The rest can be taught, but these qualities are the core values that Mooeys stands by, and anyone we work with must uphold them.” www.mooeys.co.uk

The nail bar at Mooeys, Farnham.

Is it for you?

Emily Price

Emily Price, chief operating officer at the British Franchise Association, shares key franchise considerations…

• Do you have the money to get through the first year? You are starting a brand new business; it will take time to build a client base, before the money starts rolling in.

• Do you have enough savings to be able to pay your regular bills for that first year, until you are earning good money? If not, can you get a loan from your bank or building society, and would you be able to repay the money comfortably once your business takes off?

• Are you comfortable with being told exactly what to do?

Franchising doesn’t suit everyone, and it particularly doesn’t suit people who like to do it ‘their way’. A franchise only works if the franchisee follows the model pretty much to the letter. If that’s not you, franchising probably isn’t for you either. www.thebfa.org

Home-based or mobile?

If you want to run a franchise, but from the comfort of your own home or on a mobile basis, Lemon Tree Nails & Beauty Ltd has introduced the Lemon Tree at Home concept. This includes support on how to set up correctly from home or on mobile terms, with the knowledge and assurance of a recognised brand and franchisor. www.lemontreenails.co.uk

Mooeys, Farnham.

The Mooeys team at the Newbury franchise.

The finances

When it comes to setting up a franchise, each franchisor has different costs and there are many aspects that need to be considered. Amy Lewis explains how it works at Mooeys…

“The costs are different for everyone, as it depends on the property and legal fees. Some landlords will require a six-month deposit for example, and some will settle on a three-month deposit. Some properties need a lot of work to get them to the standard required, and some don’t need much at all.

“Franchisees will need a solicitor to look over a franchise agreement, as well as a commercial lease solicitor.

We say that the average opening cost is £50,000 to £60,000. The franchise fee is £24,995, then we expect the costs to be approximately £25,000 on top of that.

“We work really closely with a few banks who favour franchise lending over start-up lending. Most banks will lend up to 60% for new franchise partners, which is great for anyone who wants a helping hand financially.

“We will help create a business plan once a location has been found, which is based on research and figures, so we know that the area you have chosen is going to be a huge success from the offset.”

“Franchisors help with locations and keeping costs down, and can also benefit from funding opportunities. There is a ready-made appearance for franchise salons, making it easier to set up a business as there is a concept already in place.”

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 79

>>

BUSINESSMATTERS

Opening up Jody Macmillan shares the process for starting up an N.Bar franchise…

“Fill out an application and review the prospectus. This will prepare you for your first phone conversation with the franchise manager and during this, you will be asked about your business aspirations.

“You will be given details about our franchise and we will invite you to an N.Bar Discovery Meeting, in which we will explore the business model, finances, training and marketing support. This is part of your due diligence process, to help you determine if we’re right for you and your future, so you can make an informed choice.

“If you decide that N.Bar is the perfect model to help you achieve your salon goals, we’ll work with you to access funding, find the right location for your salon by assessing footfall, help to equip your salon with the N.Bar look, support you in hiring the right therapists, and market your new business to fill up the diary with clients from the day you open.”

What’s next?

Before jumping in and starting your own franchise, Emily Price, chief operations officer at the British Franchise Association, shares what you need to do…

“Research, gain legal advice and do more research.

Unfortunately, there are still some rogue franchisors who are happy to take your money and effectively let you ‘sink or swim’. To avoid one of those, take the time to talk to all of a business’ franchisees: not just the ones you are pointed towards.

Every franchise has a few who are less than happy, so don’t be put off by a couple of grumbles, but if the majority of people say they are well supported, this is a good indication that the franchisor is doing a positive job.

If most franchisees can’t wait to tell you how bad the franchisor is, please avoid.”

What is the British Franchise Association (BFA)?

“The BFA was set up in 1977 by a group of franchisors who were tired of the industry getting a bad name due to a few rogue traders. They drew up a strict code of conduct and a set of standards that all members must firstly reach, and secondly maintain.

“Getting into the BFA isn’t easy, as a franchise’s accounts and business practices are looked over with a fine-tooth comb to ensure they are operating in an ethical, professional way and that their franchisees can run successful, sustainable, profitable businesses,” Emily continues.

“We would encourage anyone looking to purchase a franchise to visit our website where we list over 300 members, all of whom have met our exacting standards and pledged to adhere to our code of conduct.” N.Bar is a member of the British Franchise Association. www.thebfa.org

80 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

“Unfortunately, there are still some rogue franchisors who are happy to take your money and effectively let you ‘sink or swim’. To avoid one of those, take the time to talk to all of a business’ franchisees: not just the ones you are pointed towards.”

HANDY CONTACTS If you’re keen to franchise, contact the companies below: Lemon Tree Nails & Beauty Ltd: Denise Taylor denise@lemontreenails.co.uk Mooeys: Amy Lewis amy@mooeys.co.uk N.Bar: Jody Macmillan jody@thegroomingcompany.com

IN THE LAP OF Luxury

TREATMENT&SERVICES

Elevate your clients’ mani/ pedi experiences & indulge their senses with CHLOE RANDALL’S pick of products & initiatives Treatments are classified under ‘beauty therapy’ for a reason: an appointment allows a client to step away from the pressures of daily life and indulge in something that helps them unwind, as well as look and feel great.

However, with many clients juggling multiple chores and commitments, are you doing what you can within their timeslot to help them relax, switch off and enjoy their service?

From a hand massage to a soothing aroma in the nail space, small additions to a treatment can make a big difference to a client’s mood, encouraging them to rebook, in order to feel that way again. What’s more, there are extras that you can promote to pull in profit, which supports your needs, too.

“There are two types of add-on service: those that take little to no added time, which could be booked on the day, and more timeconsuming extras,” comments Belinda Price, OPI UK&I education manager.

“These include a massage or nail art service, which ideally need to be booked Belinda Price in advance. Be clear on your treatment menu and booking system about which is which and how much longer they take, as well as their additional cost.”

Here, Scratch explores how you can transform a standard nail service into an extraordinary experience for the client and revenue-maker for your business…

How to sell an upgrade “In the Nail Business Success Club and Nail Tech Tribe Secret Society, we teach nail techs to call every new client prior to their first appointment,” reveals Joanna Tompkins, Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year 2023 & founder of Nail Tech Tribe. “This not only offers the chance to upsell a treatment and check the client is Joanna Tompkins booked in for the correct service, but to answer any questions and reassure them.

“If you have any gaps or free time before or after a client’s appointment, ask if they would like to upgrade their treatment, offering options that can be completed within that time frame.

“Place a menu on your desk featuring luxury upgrades and normalise them with clients. For example, mention the popularity of hand masks or benefits of a scrub, in order to upsell the service.

“Be transparent with clients about treatments and upgrades that will cost more,” adds Chantelle Vermont, founder of Clawgasmic Nail Network & Scratch Stars Nail Business Mentor of the Year 2023 finalist. “Nobody wants to feel like they were ‘unknowingly’ booked in for something more expensive, so make your upgrades and prices clear on your social media pages and visible in the nail space.”

COURTESY & COMFORT Attentive customer service is key to a seamless and restful client experience, beginning with a warm, welcoming greeting. Risk assess offerings for refreshments and if feasible, offer a tea, coffee or soft drink away from any electrical items. You could also entice clients to book a luxury service by adding a complimentary glass of bubbly – but make sure to build it into your treatment cost and not over indulge the client!

“During the colder months, I enjoy adding luxury touches to make my salon cosy and inviting,” states Lily Lou Moore, Louella Belle brand ambassador. “I offer warm drinks during my services, as well as a blanket and heated mat on the floor during pedicures.”

Lily Lou Moore

Attention to cleanliness and hygiene is non-negotiable, ensuring clients feel safe in the salon environment. Also, engaging in friendly conversation or providing a silent treatment, depending on the client’s preference, adds a personalised touch that caters to their needs and desires.

82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

TREATMENT&SERVICES

AMBIENCE

In a world filled with noise and distractions, the opportunity to escape for a soothing pamper session is often needed. Allowing clients to disconnect from the outside world promotes relaxation and mindfulness: two reasons why the beauty experience is so appealing.

Consider playing softly toned music or using ASMR in the nail space to create a tranquil, soothing atmosphere. This calm environment can help to foster a connection that gives the client comfort when with you, creating a sense of personalised care.

Glenn Payne

“In my opinion, the beauty industry suits a cross between light chillout and upbeat keyboard instrumental sounds,” shares Glenn Payne, artist & repertoire (A&R) director at GAP MuSic – Tantajo Records. “Clients need to feel at ease and employees require a pleasurable working experience. Music should never offend – it should always enhance.”

Using aromatherapy products can also help to create a relaxing environment, with scents having a powerful impact on mood. Take advantage of the power of essential oils such as lavender, geranium and neroli – known for their relaxing and calming properties.

Music For Gentle Relaxation Vol 1.

Available via online stores including iTunes and Amazon, and to stream via Spotify, Apple Music and more.

CUSTOM SERVICE

Chantelle Vermont

Make clients feel extra special by offering a truly bespoke service: a custom-mixed nail shade. “Add a luxury feel to your nail treatments by creating custom colours for clients,” comments Chantelle Vermont.

“I never recommend mixing across brands, but you can layer colours from the same brand, which works well with neutral tones, to create a bespoke finish. Mix and blend different colours together to create custom shades, and decant into screw-on pots to use at clients’ later appointments. It won’t cost you extra, but there is something special about clients having their own nail shades!”

Artistic Sole-ful Pedicure & Manicure 4-step Kit in Lavender Bloom £3.95 + VAT/RRP £8-10 www.louellabelle.co.uk

CND™ Scentsations Lavender & Jojoba Lotion £5.95 + VAT/RRP £13.95 www.sweetsquared.com

TAKE-HOME CARE

Demonstrate to clients that you care about the condition of their nails and their long-term nail journey by gifting a mini cuticle oil (built into the cost of the service) or recommending a prescriptive nail product to use in between appointments. Luxury comes in a variety of forms – and having the luxury of a nail pro who is invested in a client’s nail journey is comforting and promotes loyalty.

CND™ Strengthener RXx £11.95 + VAT/RRP £24.95 www.sweetsquared.com

OPI Repair Mode £18.90 + VAT/RRP £29.90 www.opi.com

Glitterbels Almond Cuticle Oil (18pk of 5ml) £35.99 inc VAT/RRP £4 www.glitterbels.com

Pricing pointer “Keep the price of your standard and luxury services similar,” advises Laura Chree, Louella Belle brand ambassador & educator. “This encourages clients to opt for the upgrade, as the slight price difference is perceived as worthwhile Laura Chree for the added value and benefits they receive. This approach helps maintain profitability for my business, while ensuring client satisfaction with upgraded treatments.”

Protein Formula For Nails in 4 – I STRENGTHEN £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.95 www.protein-nails.com

CND SolarOilTM Care Pen £7.95 + VAT/RRP £18.95 www.sweetsquared.com

HOT STAT “If you upgrade just eight clients a day with a £10 add-on and work five days a week, you will increase turnover by over £20,000 a year!”

Belinda Price, OPI UK&I education manager SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 83

>>

TREATMENT&SERVICES

ARTY OFFERINGS

When a client books an appointment, ask whether they would like some seasonal nail art or a bespoke design, and detail the additional cost. A small amount of encouragement could reap great rewards.

An upgrade can also be placed at the nail desk for simple nail art – such as dots, stripes or the addition of glitter, which can be completed within the allocated appointment time. There’s no harm in asking the client if they’d like it, but always be clear on cost.

Delicate nail art additions

by Gisell of @g_nails615.

“I feel so sad when people tell me they aren’t charging for nail art, as time is money,” adds Chantelle Vermont. “If you have clients who love nail art, promote your offerings to make your business stand out from the crowd.”

MOISTURISE & MASSAGE Incorporating indulgent lotions into the mani/ pedi experience is a simple yet powerful way to infuse luxury into every treatment, particularly if the client chooses a scent based on their mood or preference. The application of a rich, soothing lotion leaves the skin feeling soft and supple and elevates the sensory journey.

MASK UP

A hairdresser can cut one client’s hair while colour is setting on another – so make the most of your time, too, by applying a mask to hands while you’re working on feet, and vice versa. It’s an upgrade without extra work!

OPI ProSpa Advanced Softening Gloves £3.70 + VAT www.opi.com These ultra-hydrating gloves are infused with macadamia oil and shea butter to soothe and moisturise skin.

If you have a gap or additional free time between clients, offer a five-minute hand or foot massage as a simple way to boost profit. With the exception of a small amount of product cost, the extra service doesn’t require additional supplies – just a soft touch and soothing hand motions.

Famous Releaf Dadi Lotion in Gold £40 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk

Peacci‘ Peach ManiPedi Cream £6.50 + VAT/RRP £10 www.thegelbottle.com

Jessica Geluscious Booties £15.50 + VAT/RRP £27.95 www.gerrardinternational.com Available in two colours, each pair can be reused 40 times for 20-minute treatments. To reuse, simply hand wash with mild soap and air dry.

The Manicure Company Hydrating Hand Mask £3.48 inc VAT www.themanicurecompany.com These hand masks are perfect for upselling to clients during a nail treatment, as they have removable fingertips so can be used during a nail service.

Light Elegance Q&Lu Bamboo Lotion from £6 inc VAT www.lightelegance.co.uk

SOOTHING SOAKS

Using a soak can help to soothe muscles, hydrate skin and relieve aches and pains. It is a simple and comforting way to make the client feel pampered and isn’t time-consuming.

Upsell your standard manis/pedis with this luxurious treat to kick it off; ideal in the winter months for a warm, cosy feel. Consider adding flowers or seasonal scents and oils to your mani/pedi bowl alongside a professional soak.

Lecenté Cleansing Soak £5.99 + VAT www.lecente.com 84 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

CND™ Pro Skincare Mineral Bath £33.95 + VAT/RRP £68 www.sweetsquared.com

TREATMENT&SERVICES

LUXURY ON THE MOVE

Mobile pros – offer a luxury upgrade to clients in the comfort of their own home with the handy BareLuxury Kit from Morgan Taylor.

Available in seven scents, it features single-use sachets of Soak, Masque, Scrub and Massage Butter.

Morgan Taylor BareLuxury Complete Manicure & Pedicure 4-pack £3.95 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

BEAUTY BONUS

You’ve already got your clients coming to you for their nail needs, so why not offer them more than just a nail treatment when they next visit? Convenience is key, and if a client can have multiple beauty needs satisfied in one destination, you can benefit from regular, additional income. Review your treatment menu and consider treatment packages to indulge clients.

“A brow wax and tint could be offered and carried out while gel polish is being soaked off, thus being extremely time effective but supporting extra revenue,” suggests Nina Nicholson, Nina Nicholson Lecenté lead educator.

RefectoCil Intense Brow(n) s Professional Kit £135 + VAT. Available via wholesalers nationwide.

Designed to help clients ‘wake up to make up’ without non-invasive techniques, this RefectoCil system offers a semi-permanent make-up effect, lasting up to six weeks on hair and up to 10 days on skin.

Package it up “I offer my clients the option of a luxury service, detailing the additional pampering elements, which they appreciate,” comments Natalie Henson, Gelish master educator. “This can turn a one-hour standard manicure or pedicure into a two-hour treatment, which is not only better for business revenue, but a great idea to retail: as a gift voucher.

Natalie Henson

“My luxury treatments have a set price, so clients have the option of a standard or luxury service, without hidden costs. From past experience, clients don’t like unexpected fees at the checkout stage, so be clear what each service offers and which add-ons cost extra, if any.”

MATERIALS

Aid comfort during a manicure or pedicure with soft, fluffy towels and items to support your client’s hands, feet and legs. Contorting your client to support perfect product application should not be an option, as it makes for an uncomfortable experience.

Run through the appointment experience from your client’s perspective: sit where they sit and determine whether the chair and its height are comfortable.

Majestic Promotional Towels £POA www.majestictowels.co.uk These soft towels are available in a variety of sizes and shades, with the option of personalisation.

Majestic Wipeable Memory Foam Contour Leg Support Pillow £87.95 + VAT www.majestictowels.co.uk Designed for footcare services, the ergonomic shape of this leg support pillow offers joint care and comfort to the ankles, knees and legs. The contoured construction can relieve tension while promoting better body posture.

REM Fantasy Pedispa from £1,179 + VAT www.rem.co.uk With 25 fabric and laminate finishes, the Fantasy is an unplumbed pedispa seat with a retractable and removable stainless steel basin.

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 85

ABT is the UK’s leading membership & insurance provider representing over 18,000 members

ABT Accreditation

ABT Accreditation is a simple, low cost and extremely efficient way to step out of the crowd and show your potential students that you are approved, endorsed and eligible to offer, on completion of your courses, ABT membership and insurance packages to them.

ABT Accreditation isn’t just a logo, or a membership, it allows you to instil confidence and provide guidance to your potential students that they can get insurance with ABT. Once insured your students can continue practicing on the public with the new skills they have learnt.

A successful application would allow you access to the use of our accreditation logo, insurance for your students, as well as loads of membership benefits to becoming an ABT Accredited member.

To complete the Accreditation process go to:

www.abtinsurance.co.uk or call 01789 773 573

We Also Provide Insurance Beauty | Hair | Complementary | Nails, Tanning & Make-Up | Salon Full Details, Terms of Business, Application Forms, Policy Wording and Explanatory Documents are available to view online at www.abtinsurance.co.uk

As an ABT Accredited Company What do my Students and I Receive?

10% 10%Off OffAny Any ABT ABTPackage Package for forYour YourStudents Students

Invitation Invitationto to ABT ABTEvents Events

Free FreePromotion Promotion in inour ourBi-Weekly Bi-Weekly Newsletters Newsletters

Allows Allowsyour yourstudents studentsto to receive receive10% 10%off off any anyof ofour ourindividual individual membership membershippackages. packages.

Video, Video,Interview Interview and andEditing Editing Support Support

One OneOff OffFee Fee

Free FreePromotion Promotionon on abtinsurance.co.uk abtinsurance.co.uk

Personalised Personalised Accreditation AccreditationPortal Portal PR PRand and Editorial Editorial One One Off OffFee Fee Support Support

Entry Entryto to Trade TradeEvents Events Access Accessto to One OneOff OffFee Fee Insurance InsuranceTalks Talks

Starting Starting at at £250 £250

Guaranteed Guaranteed Insurance Insurancefor for Your YourStudents Students

We Wehave haveso somany many exciting excitingthings things coming comingin in2024 2024for for ABT ABTAccredited Accredited companies companies

Use Useof ofthe theABT ABT Accreditation AccreditationLogo Logo

Free Free Student Student Presentation Presentation

NA I L s g n i p Clip SCRATCHMEDIA

❤

We

...

CHLOE RANDALL & CARTER ROGERS uncover the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves

Instagram.com/kyliejenner

Instagram.com/

Instagram.co

caitlyn.nails

m/tombachik

Enter November with a bang by creating bonfire and firework nail designs. Check out these themed looks from Instagram...

FANCY FRENCH

Instagra

m.com/d

bnailsda

pto

Celebrity nail pro, Tom Bachik, created a stunning French finish for actress, Nicola Peltz-Beckham. The versatile style, on square-shaped nails, allowed her sizeable engagement ring to shine.

CHERRY BABY According to Kylie Jenner’s TikTok, it is ‘red szn’ - and we are here for it. The reality show star & beauty brand founder took to TikTok and Instagram to show off a cherry red manicure, courtesy of Zola Ganzorigt. The nail pro used PLA Gel Polish in Messy Business to create the look.

PLA Gel Polish in Messy

88 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

elle m/cocamich Instagram.co

Instagram.co

m/nailsbyxioo

oo

Business £11 inc VAT www.plapro.com

UNIQUE QUEEN

Nail artist, Coca Michelle, created a chrome tip nail look for Beyoncé, which spelled ‘unique’ on the underside of the nails. The design was created for her Renaissance tour performance in Houston, USA.

SCRATCHMEDIA

COFFEE BREAK

CELEB MANI SPOT!

e_charlo

tte

Singer, Paloma Faith, jumped on the glazed donut nail trend and opted for sweet heart details at the tips. The look was created by celebrity nail tech, @imarninails, who used The GelBottle Inc’s Glazed Top Coat to complete the look.

The GelBottle Inc Glazed Top Coat £16.50 + VAT www.thegelbottle.com

Instagram.co

Instagram.co

m/imarninail

s

m/annelizabe

th87

Searches for ‘latte make-up’ on TikTok have surged to over 220 million, and the nail world has embraced the coffee-coloured trend.

Serve up neutral taupe, chocolate brown and creamy caramel shades to clients, with inspiration from fellow pros…

Instagram.com/ol

iviajade_attwood

Instagram.co

Love Island star, Olivia Attwood, showcased scarlet fever when she posted a red nail snap on Instagram with the caption ‘Red nail szn’.

m/thatglosss

auce

m.c Instagra

om/bea

utyspac

DID YOU KNOW? When Dolly Parton wrote her hit song, 9 to 5 , she tapped a beat with her L&P acrylic nail enhancements while writing the lyrics. As a result, on the back of the album, there is a credit for ‘Nails by Dolly.’

SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 89

NAILDESIGNS

The national flower of Spain is the red carnation, The classic French manicure gets a romantic Gel nail artist, @nailsbycindyxo, creates a and @ver.a.nail crafts it in 3D amongst a scarlet twist courtesy of @bytayler__, who paints the design inspired by tile-based game, Mah-jongg, nail hue to represent the country’s flair.

Eiffel Tower and a red heart on the ring fingernail. which is popular in Shanghai and Beijing.

Fingernails in

Focus

Take a trip around the world with CARTER ROGERS’ roundup of nail designs inspired by destinations

Sri Lankan nail pro, @niyarataa, uses nail art to channel the country’s Batik industry, where wax is used to create textile designs.

The stars and stripes of the USA flag are showcased The spirit and essence of Africa is shown across on these eye-catching nail enhancements nails, courtesy of @nailsbyly, who uses 3D elements

by Tyler Nguyen of @bornwithprettynails. and sparkle to enhance the colourful look.

Kinga Porębska (@tochonails_abagroup) hand-paints London’s key landmarks onto nails, including Big Ben and the London Eye.

Polish tech, @klamaja, takes a trip down under with this cute and cuddly Koala nail art, depicting the iconic Australian animal.

In Japan, cherry blossom trees symbolise renewal and hope. To celebrate this, @76_kaori shares a delicate design on a nude overlay.

To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 90 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK

In association with

w w w. n a i l y mpi a . c om

The 2nd European Cup winner Deborah Cocco – Italy (586 points)

The 1st Americas Cup winner Katarzyna Kruszynska – Ireland

The fantastic judges lineup at Nailympia London 2023

Thank you for your support!

The 5th Global Cup winner Olena Oezman – Germany (1152 points)

JOIN US IN 2024 Register your interest today!

Scan here to keep updated with the latest news from Nailympia Competitions

w w w. n a i l y mpi a . c om

@nailympiacompetitions

@nailympia

@nailympia

With thanks to our Nailympia London 2023 sponsors & partners

LIGHTS

CAMERA

ACTION!

NEW

HM-17193

CAMERA READY

© 2023 NAIL ALLIANCE LLC.

TECHNOLOGY

• UP TO 21 DAYS OF WEAR • VEGAN & CRUELTY-FREE

STAR QUALITY

BRIGHT UP MY ALLEY

TIME TO SPARKLE

MESMERIZED

BY YOU

AVAILABLE AT

www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk

NEVER STOP GLISTENING

DRIPPING IN BLING