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Twenty years of... ®
Issue 243 Managing editor Helena Biggs helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk Publisher Scott Derbyshire scott.derbyshire@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Chloe Randall chloe.randall@scratchmagazine.co.uk News & features writer Rebecca Hitchon rebecca.hitchon@scratchmagazine.co.uk Copywriter Callie Iley callie.iley@scratchmagazine.co.uk Art editor Jessica Wilkie jess.wilkie@scratchmagazine.co.uk Group sales manager Ian Archbold ian.archbold@scratchmagazine.co.uk Accounts Lisa Ebbens lisa.ebbens@scratchmagazine.co.uk Co-founder Alex Fox Editorial/Advertising office 1 The Courtyard, Market Square, Westerham, Kent TN16 1AZ
T: +44 (0) 1959 547 000 ISSN 2635-0327 Contributors Carter Rogers, Caroline Rainsford, Maddi Cook, Mino Vo, Clare Woodcock, Michaela Phillips Subscriptions Curwood CMS Ltd T: 01580 883844 Printer The Magazine Printing Company Mailing House Mailing & Fulfilment MK Ltd
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all, always been sm ur industry has n ga be When I yet it is mighty. , journey in 2009 try us ind il na my , we bs ite s cy an inf its in s Facebook wa es er ce ca pa bi liti la ck ed e- co m m en t. ist ex nno re we in g sy ste m s d lte an d on lin e bo ok ve catapu in no va tio ns ha Te ch no lo gi ca l thin it – into the wi nt le ta e th d our industry – an ort business pp d se rved to su mainstream an ol that is e is one tech to r. However, ther ne an m media. l ive cia sit tive effects: so functions in a po number of nega ing as re inc an presenting some people l platforms, with xicity across socia to of or for good; les ct ta se ing the I am hear hes and leave us br il na ir the y. We must up their career journe choosing to pack ents to continue m m reer, and co ca e il lin na on too upset by nt stage in their re fe dif a at is one everyone their family. No remember that for themselves or ing liv edia a m rn l ea cia to so ultimately trying gh beyond their e is going throu rms. els tfo ne pla eo on m g so tin knows what rate when interac ide ns co d an indful profile, so be m nice to say, don’t ven’t got anything ha u yo ‘if g: atively, yin the sa post irks you. Altern We’ve all heard or scroll past if a p to glaring of lap ds the an f of us say it’ – so shut – away from tho ly lite po d amas an ly r private t caught in the dr contact the poste rectify. Don’t ge to ed ce a ne u on d yo an ue r, te an iss that should mat eyes – if there’s d business is all an n tio . uta ck rep ke it ba of others; your re – you can’t ta in the social sphe comment is out ing through, been, and are go ess owners have sin en funding bu d giv an be als to Individu s one of the last wa or ct se r h and media Ou at an all-time hig so many battles. energy bills are ic, em pointments. nd ap pa el nc the throughout r of clients to ca be m nu a ed ia. us s ca s on social med sensationalism ha t of verbal attack tha is sector ed il na ed ne the ’t A stress that isn : the beauty of n one ne in this industry yo pio er am ev r ch fo ’s let om There is ro nge of skills, so ra se er div a r fo . ace t, not hate is that it offers sp encouragemen up support and another and serve artistic , showca se s of ofiles of nail pros pr t entry. en es on pr titi pe we m co Every month, luding through inc , ine sh l arena, to nities sitivity in the socia skill and opportu demonstrate po ’s let so e, lov s This industry need g to #BeKind. by rememberin success ly to celebrate the rs Party on 23 Ju Sta a h tc be ra to Sc e a smile. It’s going I’ll see you at Th rs in the UK&I with ne ow lon sa d of pros an fantastic night!
Helena Biggs Managing editor +44(0)1959 547 000 helena.biggs@scratchmagazine.co.uk
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Images courtesy of Jessica Cosmetics
Shades shown are Fresh Fig, Papaya Smoothie, Watermelon, Razzleberry, Honey Do! and Elderberry from the Fruit Infusion collection, available in Jessica Custom Colour and GELeration formulas.
COVER CREDITS Photographer: Gražina Lomonovskaja @grazina.light Make-up artist & prop designer: Olga Firsova @filorija . Nail stylist & model: Ieva Rutkauskaite @ieva_nailmaster (Lithuania) @ieva_nail_architects (Amsterdam) . Coach: Ilona Vas (Vasiliauskiene) @ilonavas
www.gerrardinternational.com
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Contents JULY 2023
FEATURES 18 32 36 38 42
Woodland Wonder
Explore the creative process behind this month’s enchanting . cover imagery, conceptualised by Ieva Rutkauskaite
Sweet Disruption
Go behind-the-scenes at Sweet Squared’s The Event, which featured a disruptive catwalk show & fun party for pros
Triple Charm
Discover the ideal Gelish system for your clients’ needs, with a close-up on Brush-On Builder Gel, Foundation Flex & Structure Gel
Beauty Bloomers
Nail pros share why they joined the industry later in life & serve up top tips for accommodating mature clients
Keen to try your hand at Scratch’s photographic competition? Past winners reveal the benefits & offer handy pointers
46 58 60 64
68
Nail SOS
Learn how to identify 15 common nail conditions & the steps you should take to ensure appropriate client care
38
Built Up & Beautiful
Take a peek at the 60 Builder-Bel shades from Glitterbels, formulated to build shape & aid strength
Face The Music
Are you clued up on the rules for playing music in the nail space? Explore key notes & how to ensure an appropriate ambience
74
Power In Beauty
The team at non-profit organisation, Beauty Changes Lives, share how it has helped over 1,000 people begin a career in beauty
REGULARS
Scratch Stars Awards 2023: Meet The Judges Pt.2
Check out the esteemed group of judges lending their expertise to categories including Educator of the Year & Nail Salon of the Year
74 80 86
58
The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Entry benefits
Nail Space Styling 101
Spruce up your nail setup – whether you’re a mobile pro or owner of a small or large space, with design tips & product picks
Art & Precision Across The Atlantic
See who scooped medals & trophies at the third edition of Nailympia Orlando, held within a bustling Florida beauty expo
Twitter Tips & Tricks
Reignite your passion for Twitter with an inside look at its benefits for your business & how to use it to its full potential
46
10 22 24 26 28 54 56 66 72 78 88 90 92 96 98
Nail Nation The Scratch Scoop The Hot List Behind The Gram The Cosmetic Climate Readers Gallery How To Boss Your Salon The Halo Effect The Mobile Club Through The Keyhole Making Moves With Mino Vo Company Spotlight Tech Talk Nail Clippings Fingernails In Focus
Nail NATION
business
news & views IN MEMORIAM: IAN GERRARD 27 April 1944 – 30 May 2023
The team at Scratch is deeply saddened by the passing of Ian Gerrard, co-founder of beauty distribution company, Gerrard International, and founding member of the Beauty Companies Association. Susan & Ian Gerrard Ian completed a hairdressing apprenticeship in 1959, before meeting Susan, who was to become his wife, a year later. They opened their first salon in London in 1964 and married in 1965, going on to have three children; Lisa, Danielle and Paul. A second salon was opened in 1982, and a decade later, Ian and Susan took a trip to the USA. It was there that they discovered the Jessica nail brand, and arrived home with the rights to distribute it, trading under The Natural Nail Company. Ian expanded the distribution portfolio with the SexyHair haircare brand, and as the company diversified, it changed its name to Gerrard International. The company headquarters and training facility opened in Borehamwood in 1997, and Ian became a grandfather for the first time in 1999, eventually to six grandchildren. All three of his children joined the family business, and Ian continued to work five days a week until his passing from pancreatic cancer. Lisa, Danielle and Paul comment: “Behind this great man was a great woman (our mum), and behind that great woman was this great man (our dad). They made an awesome team as parents and as our employers. Dad’s absence will be felt by the many lives he impacted – both within and outside the industry.” Scratch sends its condolences to the Gerrard family and team Paul, Danielle, Ian, Lisa & Susan Gerrard at Gerrard International.
The Beauty Accountant makes moves to expand reach in personal care sector Beauty industry accountancy and advisory firm, The Beauty Accountant, has joined the D&T Group, a multi awardwinning team of chartered accountants Ria-Jaine Lincoln and business advisors. The move aims to catapult The Beauty Accountant’s reach across the UK and allow it to expand into adjacent markets such as barbers, aesthetics and tattooists. The Beauty Accountant founder, Ria-Jaine Lincoln, comments: “Joining the D&T Group is a huge honour and milestone for The Beauty Accountant, complementing its specialist services with a wealth of knowledge, resources and experience. We’re all looking forward to joining the team, and in turn will be able to focus on client delivery and relationships; areas that I feel provide the most value for small businesses.” Ria has been recognised in the COVID Hero Awards and Top 50 Women in Accounting. She was awarded Sole Practitioner of the Year by Accounting Excellence in 2021. www.team-dt.com www.riajaineaccounts.co.uk
celebrating Ian’s birthday in 2022.
NHBF survey indicates positive shift for nail & beauty businesses The NHBF State of Industry survey reveals a promising shift in the nail and beauty industry, reporting that 43% of businesses are making a small or good profit and 38% are breaking even. Business survival expectations have also improved in line with the positive outlook held in July 2022, with 64% of businesses reporting confidence in their survival. Almost two thirds (64%) of businesses surveyed have raised their prices in the last quarter, and 51% share intentions of doing so over the next three months. Top concerns reported for business owners are energy costs, increased cost of trade supplies and increases to the National Minimum Wage/National Living Wage. Richard Lambert, chief executive of the NHBF, comments: “Hopefully, the announcement of a rise in funding for the apprenticeship standards will encourage more employers to change their mind about recruiting junior staff, and we will start to see more young people come into the industry – plus this will help businesses to grow. As an organisation, we will continue to use this vital information to help inform our work with government, for their planning on issues that directly affect our industry.” Richard Lambert www.nhbf.co.uk
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Nail NATION Alison Young champions BABTAC’s T.I.M.E initiative to help clients spot safe beauty standards
Studex marks National Piercing Day with road trip
In a show of support for BABTAC’s T.I.M.E initiative, beauty expert, TV presenter & BABTAC member, Alison Young, raised the importance of due diligence when booking beauty treatments, in a live Instagram discussion with Alison Young Lesley Blair MBE, CEO & chair of BABTAC & CIBTAC. BABTAC’s research has found that 70% of consumers do not realise that the beauty industry remains unregulated, and 71% do not know the difference between legitimate qualifications and non-regulated short courses. Alison Young discussed client confusion towards booking treatments, noting that many don’t know how to find a reputable salon that treats staff well and employs well-trained staff. During the discussion, she commented: “Standards vary in different parts of the country. That’s what the T.I.M.E initiative is for – it helps accredit the salon and the professional salon owner to consumers, and highlights who is a great option for beauty in each area.” T.I.M.E is a checklist for clients to follow prior to booking treatments, with areas to note: training, insurance, monitoring and evidence. Lesley Blair MBE explains: “The purpose of the T.I.M.E initiative is to educate and empower the consumer to be able to ask. I always say: ‘all that glitters is not gold’, meaning that even if there are certificates on the wall, the therapist may not have adequate training for the treatment.” To find out more about the T.I.M.E initiative, visit www.babtac.com
Simply Business & Mental Health at Work collaborate to support mental health of small business owners Business insurer, Simply Business, has partnered with Mental Health at Work, a programme by mental health charity, Mind, to highlight the mental health challenges faced by small business owners. Analysis from the partnership has revealed that 73% of small business owners take less than 20 days of annual leave per year, prioritising the business over their personal mental health. 15% of those surveyed believe a lack of time off directly impacts their mental health, meanwhile over half of small business owners reported experiencing poor mental health over the past 12 months – 124% higher than the national average. Bea Montoya, COO at Simply Business, comments: “Small businesses are vital to both our economic recovery and the prosperity of our communities, and this will only compound the challenges of an increasingly economically inactive population. It’s critical that the people behind the country’s SMEs are given the support they need. That’s why we’ve partnered with Mental Health at Work to raise awareness of the challenges facing this demographic, and create tailored resources designed to help.” Resources are available via Simply Business’ Self-Employed Support Hub, accessible at www.get.simplybusiness.co.uk/mind-your-business 12 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Members of the Studex head office team and the company’s regional trainers visited 22 ‘piercing partners’ across the country, to mark National Piercing Day on 16 May. They reaffirmed the support that can be given to businesses, alongside gifting goody bags and showing the brand’s Crystal Shimmers collection. A spokesperson for Studex comments: “Having a day dedicated to our industry offered a great opportunity to promote the benefits of piercing and what it can do for businesses. At Studex, we take pride in offering our safe, gentle, sterile hand-pressured instruments, along with onsite training, marketing support and efficient customer service.” www.studexuk.com
^
DAVID WALKER-SMITH NAMED AS BRITISH BEAUTY WEEK AMBASSADOR Returning for its fifth iteration, British Beauty Week 2023 will bring together brands, consumers, the press and policymakers to celebrate ‘The Power of Beauty’ and highlight its influence on a national and international scale. Taking place 26-30 October, the week will host in-person and digital events. Leading the strategy for the celebration is former Selfridges executive beauty director & co-founder of Side by Side, David Walker-Smith. He has been appointed by the British Beauty Council as ambassador for British Beauty Week, owing to his David Walker-Smith innovative approach to business and extensive beauty retail knowledge. Walker-Smith comments: “I am extremely proud to be part of the British Beauty Council and can’t wait to create and deliver British Beauty Week in October with the team. We are set to make this year’s celebration the most representative, educational and inspiring British Beauty Week to date. We can’t wait to see the industry come together to celebrate British beauty.” www.britishbeautycouncil.com www.britishbeautyweek.co.uk
pleasure
Nail NATION SALON BRAND MOOEYS OPENS FOURTH FRANCHISE SALON Former nurse, Kria Acuavera, has joined the Mooeys franchise herd, opening a salon in Newbury. The salon brand, which offers wax, brow, lash and nail treatments, was founded in 2012 in Farnham, Surrey, by Amy Lewis. Her vision was to create a homely environment in Kria Acuavera which people can access good quality treatments, while feeling a sense of community. This fourth franchise brings the number of Mooeys premises in the UK to six. Kria celebrated the Newbury opening by giving complimentary file and polish treatments to the local community, and was supported by Mooeys therapists and managers from other branches. To find out more about Mooeys franchise opportunities, email franchise@mooeys.co.uk.
OPI brings Barbiecore to nails with filminspired collection OPI has partnered with Warner Bros. and Mattel to launch the Barbie The Movie collection. The nine limited edition lacquer shades tap into the fun, joyful spirit of the film, and have been named by the film’s director & writer, Greta Gerwig. “Barbie represents empowerment and inclusivity, which are core values of OPI,” explains OPI co-founder & brand ambassador, Suzi Weiss-Fischmann. “With a nail colour for every mood and moment, the OPI consumer is poised to do anything. When it comes to using colour for self-expression, there are no limits: just as there are no limits to what the wearer can accomplish.” Shades include four mood-boosting pinks with crème and metallic finishes, a signature Barbie hot pink and three bright shades of lemon yellow, sky blue and shimmering baby blue. Two glitter shades with iridescent silver and pink foil particles complete the collection. OPI global director of colour equity, Jill Bartoshevich, adds: “The pink aesthetic is a fashion and beauty staple, and this collection’s hero shade, Hi Barbie!, a catchphrase from the upcoming film that is already taking the internet by storm – epitomises the Barbiecore trend. The collection’s palette of nostalgia-evoking hues offers consumers a taste of escapism, with an array of joyful colours.” The OPI Barbie The Movie collection nail lacquers are priced from £6.50 + VAT/RRP £14.90 each, available via www.opiuk.com.
KATIE BARNES TOOL RANGE LAUNCHES DUST BUSTING NAIL BRUSH New to the Katie Barnes Tool Range is the KB Nail Dust Brush; a handy addition to a kit bag that removes dust and debris from the nail plate and skin. Sanitisable and disinfectable, the brush can also be used to remove debris from E-file bits and nail tools when cleaning in warm, soapy water. The ergonomic design allows you to turn the brush and sit it on the knuckles in between use. Available via www.katiebarnesacademy.com
NAIL & BEAUTY BITES Sarah Hartley, founder of social media marketing company, Blossom Tree Social, has launched an online shop, offering downloadable PDFs to help professionals get organised and stay motivated. Documents include a daily journal, to-do list and goal planner. www.blossomtreesocial.com/shop. 14 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Beauty tool provider, PersoNAILity, has launched a dual-ended cuticle prep tool. Named after the brand ethos: to ‘Nurture, Inspire, Collaborate and Educate’, the NICE is made from stainless steel and features a gold-coloured titanium coating. Purchase for £28 + VAT via www.personaility.co.uk.
Perfect Corp., an artificial intelligence (AI) and augmented reality (AR) beauty and fashion tech solutions provider, has introduced The Small Business Beauty Tech Accelerator Programme. It provides minorityowned small beauty brands and retailers with up to six months’ free access to Perfect Corp.’s virtual try-on solution for colour cosmetics; ideal for those looking to transform their direct-to-consumer business with AR technology. Scan to apply
Golf Day raises over £6,000 for Hair & Beauty Charity
Tammy Koslowski
Glasgow’s award-winning NAF! Salon rebrands to House of NAF! NAF! Salon, a Scratch Stars award-winning premises, has rebranded to House of NAF!, as the company seeks to ‘redefine beauty, wellness and lifestyle experiences in Glasgow’. Led by founder: nail artist & entrepreneur, Tammy Koslowski, the rebrand sees the salon encompass event spaces and an experiential offering, alongside its much-loved nail services. Found in a four-storey Victorian townhouse on Elmbank Street, House of NAF! will also expand the offering of NAF! School and offer the ‘Nail Your Future’ course. This initiative aims to equip young people with skills to set them on a path to success in the beauty industry. In addition, House of NAF!’s retail and event spaces will launch with a summer programme of events, showcasing Scottish brands and providing a platform for global brands to connect with a Scottish audience. “I am incredibly excited to unveil House of NAF! and embark on this new journey,” comments Tammy Koslowski. “We are dedicated to providing exceptional beauty services while empowering the next generation of nail technicians through NAF! School, and our new experiential offering will create a home to celebrate Scottish brands and create unforgettable experiences for our visitors.” @houseofnaf.com
Swiss nail, cosmetics and skincare brand, Mavala, has unveiled its Swift Cloud ordering platform for spa and salon customers. The digital shopping solution streamlines the ordering process, allowing professionals to conveniently place Mavala product orders from a laptop or mobile device and access an image library for marketing materials. www.mavala.co.uk
The second Hair & Beauty Charity and HBSA Golf Day was held on 13 June, and raised over £6,000 for industry members who have fallen on hard times. Hosted at Hellidon Lakes Golf Resort in Daventry, the event featured Team Salonology 13 teams – including Wella, Salonology, Alan Howard and L’Oreal – who joined forces to raise funds for the charity. A three-course meal and award ceremony followed the golf, where KAO Corporation secured the coveted Best Team award. Chris Barker, of Barkers Hair & Beauty Supplies Ltd, clinched the ‘Nearest The Bin’ challenge, displaying accuracy at chipping a ball made of hair foils into a ‘Recycle My Salon’ bin. The money raised will directly benefit the beneficiaries of the Hair & Beauty Charity, providing crucial financial support to individuals and families facing hardship. Natalie Booker, charity manager, comments: “Over the last year, the Charity has seen an 180% increase in calls for help, so the funds raised from the Golf Day will enable us to continue our vital work and make a real difference to the lives of our colleagues in the industry that need our help. We are grateful to everyone who contributed, and continue to be astounded by the incredible unity and compassion within our hair and beauty community.” The Hair & Beauty Charity has launched a monthly supporter campaign for salons and individuals to set up a monthly donation. Visit www.hairandbeautycharity.org for more information.
DATES FOR THE DIARY 23 July The Scratch Stars Party 2023 Join industry friends in an evening of celebration, as Scratch announces the first World’s Star Nail Artist and 18 winners of the Scratch Stars Awards 2023. The event will be hosted by podcaster, Jamie Laing, and feature live music from Louisa Johnson, alongside canapés and complementary house drinks. For tickets, visit bit.ly/ssatickets
31 August The Great Scratch Shoot Out: Entry deadline Submit your entry to Scratch’s annual photographic competition, to be in with a chance of winning a trophy and cash prize. Turn to page 42 for more information or visit www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/ shootout
15-16 October Nailympia London Try your hand at competing in up to eight categories across three divisions in the Nailympia London live arena, and discover the results of the nine online categories. Register by 11 August at www.nailympia.com.
15-16 October Olympia Beauty Visit autumn’s biggest beauty trade event to discover brand offerings and treatments, and to immerse in education. Held at ExCel London, register for your free ticket at www.olympiabeauty.co.uk
Add arty effects to nails with NBE Sketch Pens Educator, academy owner & Scratch Stars L&P Tech of the Year 2022, Jade Barber, has added a range of sketch pens to her professional nail product portfolio. Joining the Nail & Beauty Excellence gel polishes, acrylic products and accessories, are pens in shades Gold, Silver, Black and White, with seven more colours to launch imminently. Ideal for doodling across nails and for those who find art easier with a pen than a brush, the 5ml Sketch Pens are £6.99 inc VAT each. Available via www.nailandbeautyexcellence.com SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 15
COVERSTORY
WOODLAND
wonder Escape into an enchanted fairytale forest with Ieva . Rutkauskaite’s whimsical woodland Scratch cover, created with the support of her coach, Ilona Vas…
D
edicating her Scratch cover to her mother in a show of gratitude for her . support, Ieva Rutkauskaite notes the incredible bond the two share. “My mum’s belief in me has been a driving force behind my success, and is a reminder to always pursue my dreams, even if they sound like a fairytale. I’m grateful for the strength I found within me to chase my goals in the nail industry,” she comments. Ieva has pursued a range of opportunities since the age of 15, to extend her nail knowledge and refine her skills. She predominantly works from . her home in Kaunas, Lithuania, where Ieva Rutkauskaite her nail journey began, but also travels to Amsterdam regularly to work alongside the Nail Architects team on a part-time basis.
“The use of props and “I love that the nail industry allows me to be creative. I can express my artistic visions “The fairytale theme added a magical and make-up worked through intricate nail designs, and it’s ethereal element, to complement the such a joy to transform my clients’ nails alongside the nails to intricate nail designs and bring an extra and witness the happiness it brings,” of storytelling to the visuals. It was create a harmonious layer Ieva says. “I enjoy building connections an opportunity for me to showcase my with my clients – getting to know them, versatility as a nail artist, by combining look, aiding the understanding their personal styles and nature-inspired elements with my unique working closely with them to create nails artistic style.” visual storytelling that reflect their individuality. Knowing my created by the work has a positive impact on how clients feel Ieva shared her concept with trainer, Ilona about themselves is truly rewarding.” Vas of MB Centras Oniksas, and enquired nail design.” about becoming her student for training and
Nature calling
Ieva recalls a restless night, when she was struck with inspiration and creativity, finding herself drawn to stories of magic and fairytale forests. “I was captivated by the enchanting beauty of the woods,” she remembers. “The magical woodland setting, with its lush greenery and mystical atmosphere, provided the perfect backdrop for the image I wanted to create. The idea of incorporating a deer as the main symbol emerged from this as a representation of grace, gentleness and the natural world. The elegant presence of deer evokes a sense of harmony. 18 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
the photo shoot. “To my delight, Ilona agreed,” Ieva shares. “Little did I know that it would be the start of an incredible journey. Ilona’s expertise ensured that I received the proper guidance in learning the right techniques and to create exceptional results. Her ability to lead a skilled team was also an advantage, as it allowed me to focus on perfecting my idea, because she and her team handled the planning, coordination, and execution of the overall vision. This freed me from unnecessary stress and allowed me to concentrate on what I do best – making nails.”
COVERSTORY
Photo shoot styling
“I love that the nail industry allows me to be creative. I can express my artistic visions through intricate nail designs, and it’s such a joy to transform my clients’ nails and witness the happiness it brings.”
Taking on the challenge of modelling for the shoot: a first-time experience for Ieva, she embraced the opportunity to showcase her artistry and individual vision for the overall concept, with the imagery capturing a moment of accomplishment for the tech. However, modelling extreme nails didn’t come without challenges, as Ieva recalls having to drive her manual car to the studio while wearing the enhancements. “I had to be careful not to damage the nails, which required some creativity and coordination to ensure a safe and smooth journey,” she smiles.
Opting for an earthy palette to seamlessly pair the look with its natural inspirations, Ieva was influenced by vibrant foliage, mossy trees and the tranquillity of nature, balancing deep greens with warm neutrals for a soft contrast. The use of props and make-up worked alongside the nails to create a harmonious look, aiding the visual storytelling created by the nail design. Sculpting the deer using builder gel for a 3D finish, Ieva used an E-file to add details to the body, before turning to gel polish and builder gel to craft delicate floral pieces and leaves. This helped to capture the elegance and enchantment of the overall creation. Despite the boldness of the extreme nail design, Ieva reveals one of her all-time favourite nail looks to be a simple, classic French manicure, owing to its elegance and sophistication. “My favourite styles encompass intricate nail art and the reinvention of classic looks with a modern twist. These allow me to bring forth my creativity and provide my clients with unique and personalised nail designs.”
>> SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 19
COVERSTORY
Ieva describes her creative style as versatile and adaptable. “I believe in catering each design to a client’s individual preference and needs, to capture their style and spirit.
“It was an opportunity for “As a nail technician, having my work in Scratch is a testament to me to showcase my showcased the progress I’ve made, and the unique versatility as a nail artist, nail designs I’ve created. This opportunity ignited a fire in me, served as a boost by combining nature- has to my confidence and encouraged me to continue pushing the boundaries of inspired elements creativity in the nail industry. It is beyond with my unique my wildest expectations and has been an overwhelming blend of joy, pride and disbelief.” artistic style.” Ieva looks forward to continuing collaborations and competition participation as she further establishes herself within the industry, hoping to share her knowledge and contribute to the development of the nail community as it continues to grow.
COVER CREDITS Photographer: Gražina Lomonovskaja @grazina.light Make-up artist & prop designer: Olga Firsova @filorija . Nail stylist & model: Ieva Rutkauskaite @ieva_nailmaster (Lithuania) @ieva_nail_architects (Amsterdam) . Coach: Ilona Vas (Vasiliauskiene) /INTCOniksas @ilonavas
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COVERSTORY
“Every detail created in these nails was well thought-out, and reflects not only the fairytale story, but Ieva’s vision. Every vine, branch, twig and leaf is an extension of the forest fairy, where the most wonderful stories of the forest are intertwined.” Meet trainer, Ilona Vas of MB Centras Oniksas Starting her nail journey in 2015 after completing a basic manicure course, Ilona Vas went on to complete a nail extension course the year after, and entered her first nail competition three months later. Ilona works with a range of nail systems, including gel, acrygel and L&P acrylic, but extreme nail styles are her favourite to create, noting the concentration, precision and technical knowledge required. The educator loves teaching extreme shapes s as much as she does creating them. Working as the head of training centre, MB Centras Oniksas, Lithuania, she spends time travelling nationally and internationally to train others, and hosts online and in-person seminars. She likens her training to a military school for nails, prioritising strict accuracy with precise measurements and timings. “I always thought that my greatest achievement in the nail industry would be when I climbed the highest podiums in championships, achieving titles alongside the world’s elite,” Ilona shares. “But when my own students started to climb those podiums, I was elated, as I saw how much they trusted me as a coach, and had witnessed the effort they put into achieving their goals. I encourage my students to dream, because dreams have the ability to come true.”
. Ieva Rutkauskaite isn’t the first of Ilona’s students to have an . image chosen for a Scratch cover, with Lina Skipityte showcasing her skills in March 2021 and Laura Kaminskaite in August 2022. “After half a year with minimal help, although she didn’t believe in herself, Lina . Skipityte achieved a cover of Scratch with her diligence,” Ilona remembers. “Laura Kaminskaite is my most stubborn student, who had a dream that her work would be published in Scratch, and a very clear vision of how it would look. It was my job to explain to her how it should Ilona with a Scratch cover by be implemented and to her student, Laura Kaminskaite gather the team.” Remembering Ieva sharing her vision for the fairytale forest concept, Ilona recalls months of preparation, with the pair finalising every small detail as best they could. Together, they studied deer anatomy, working together to create Ieva’s first 3D sculpture and carving the main muscles, bumps and proportions of the deer with extreme precision. “Every detail created in these nails was well thought-out, and reflects not only the fairytale story, but Ieva’s vision. Every vine, branch, twig and leaf is an extension of the forest fairy, where the most wonderful stories of the forest are intertwined. Since the deer is the king of our Lithuanian forests, he became the highlight of this work. We really hope that you will love our Lithuanian fairytale.”
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p o o c s
SCRATCHSOCIAL
THE SCRATCH
Top (L-R): Helena Biggs, Jess Wilkie Bottom (L-R): Chloe Randall, Rebecca Hitchon, Callie Iley
The Scratch team offers an insight into its antics & unveils events & products from the nail & beauty realms
In the
MAIL... Check out the nail & beauty goodies in Scratch’s postbag this month…
Our postbag was filled with remedies for the team’s skincare woes: the +maskology Squalane Professional Facial Sheet Mask to revitalise skin, +maskology’s Hyaluronic Acid Professional Sheet Mask for hydration, and +serumology Retinol Professional Facial Serum’s powerful anti-ageing formula. Available via wholesalers nationwide.
What we’re wearing... Copywriter, Callie, opted for an on-trend pink and black swirl style, courtesy of mobile pro, Kirstie of @top.coat_nails. The nail artist used gel polish shades from HD Pro Nails, and added white dots for a seasonal finish. Helena headed to her regular tech, Rebecca Ellis of @beautyby__beck in Dartford, Kent, for builder gel enhancements with floral details and a touch of sparkle. The look took inspiration from a design by Scratch Stars award winner & finalist for 2023, Chan Vermont of @clawgasmic. 22 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
out
Out and ab
C EO & He le na , an d ag in g ed ito r, e Vo x in Th to ed Sc ra tc h’ s m an rb ys hi re , he ad De t ot Sc , e Ev en t, er Th pu bl ish tra va ga nz a, fo r tw o- da y ex mersed am im gh os in pr il rm na Bi red. Hair and ua Sq t ined ee Sw ld hosted by r, Jan Arno , jo DTM co-founde CN d nal an itio n, ns io tra at a in educ son to host James Nichol sts y’s ue G ph . ur n’ .M tio vin up Ke e of ‘disr , with the them ies and catwalk show e band, good liv a th wi rty pa a d ge 32. ye pa jo en on also d out more portunities. Fin networking op
e tch’s head offic t trip from Scra or sh a les ok sa to l a Helen HQ. Nationa visit Mavala’s UK st to Sevenoaks, to the brand’s late d ile ve un Mason, iece -p 12 e manager, Lynn th d an luding skincare of product lines, inc leading a tour llection, before co il Bio Colours na the warehouse.
London was the next port of call for Helena, to visit a pop-up host ed by the OPI UK team to celebrate the launch of Repair Mode. The fast-dry ing, bond building nail serum helps restore nails to their opti mum condition from within, and can be used under you r chosen OPI system or with any Nail Envy shades. It can also be retailed to clients for at-home use.
Helena jetted to Florida for the Pr emiere Orlando trade ev ent, to seek out brands set to m ake waves acro ss the nail sector. She was joined by Ale x Fox, director of Naily mpia Competiti ons (Scratch’s sister brand), who ran the third annual Nailympia Orlando event, which saw competitors from nine coun tries compete for m edals. Check ou t the results on page 80.
DIVORCE COLLECTION
@nails.laundry NailsLaundry
YOSHI Professional £5.95 inc.VAT
www.nailslaundry.co.uk
NEWPRODUCTS
Halo Gel Polish Arabian Nights Collection £5.95 + VAT each www.purenails.co.uk Embrace the six rich jewel tones and bright hues in Halo’s Arabian Nights collection. Standout shades include sunny yellow Fortune, zesty orange Palace and pretty pink Prestige. Also available are colour pops (£4.65 + VAT) and an A2 poster (£1.99 + VAT) to showcase the collection to clients and aid their choices.
OPI Repair Mode £18.90 + VAT/ RRP £29.90 www.opiuk.com Reboot your clients’ nailcare routines with Repair Mode, a brushon bond building nail serum. Designed to be used twice a day for six days, Repair Mode is fast-drying and boasts 94% protection from damage to keratin protein, when used as directed. You can also introduce Repair Mode into your nail services as a first step, and follow with an application of your chosen OPI system.
En Vogue Simply Paint £13 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk Create artistic masterpieces with a choice of 13 full coverage, highly pigmented, smudge and tack-free gel paints. The 5ml paints, which include White, Gold, Hot Pink, Yellow and Nude, can be mixed to create custom colours.
List THE HOT
Scratch scours the industry for the latest nail & beauty products to captivate clients & lend a helping hand to your services
CND Shellac™ Bizarre Beauty Collection £89.70 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com The bold colours and whimsical textures of CND™’s six-piece summer nail colour collection celebrate self-expression. Inspired by colour blocking and abstract patterns, clients can choose from the likes of Motley Blue, Sundial It Up and Outrage-Yes. The shades are available as a complete collection or individually: in Shellac™ (£14.95 + VAT) and Vinylux™ (£5.95 + VAT).
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Jessica Phenom Garden Roots Collection £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.50 each www.gerrardinternational.com Complementing the rich hues seen in summer gardens, Jessica’s Phenom range welcomes Summer Beets, a deep fuchsia crème; Turnip Loose, a soft lilac glaze and I Be Leaf In U, a deep green crème. The Phenom formula offers a high shine, long-lasting lacquer finish when used with the Finale Shine Top Coat.
NEWPRODUCTS
INK London Super Oil £POA www.inknails.com This hydrating cuticle oil features a blend of natural essential oils, as well as soothing vitamins A, C, D, E, K and omegas 6 and 9. Available in a 75ml dropper bottle or handy oil pen, complete your nail service with the fast-absorbing oil, and retail to clients to keep nails and cuticles in tip-top condition between appointments.
Q Better Nails Top Coats £8.50 inc VAT each www.qbetternails.co.uk Created by Nailympia global champion, Lena Kurach, four nowipe top coats have been added to the Q Better Nails portfolio. The milky Whitening allows for effortless ombré designs, while Brilliant is a clear gloss with mild silver shimmer and Lip Gloss adds a milky pink tone to nails. Completing the line-up is Powder, a high shine top coat with a delicate beige tint.
YOSHI Nail Brushes from £7 inc VAT each www.nailslaundry.co.uk Update your toolkit with YOSHI’s seven nail brushes; Gel Brushes in #4 and #6, Liner Brushes in 7mm and 9mm, Polygel Brush #6, One Stroke Brush #2 and Zhostovo Brush #2. The oval Polygel Brush features a spatula, and each brush is packaged in a pretty pink protective case with a lid.
Glitterbels Builder-Bel Gel £16.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com Build and aid strength with the 60 Hema-free Builder-Bel Gels from Glitterbels. Offering up to four weeks’ wear, the easy-to-apply formula should be applied in one thin layer, before curing and adding a thicker, second layer to build structure. Find out more about Builder-Bel Gels on page 58.
Salon System JustWax Watermelon Hot Wax Beads (£14.05 + VAT) & Advanced Strip Wax (£6.95 + VAT). Available from wholesalers nationwide. Salon System has added two limited edition waxing products to its hero Just Wax Expert collection: ideal for sensitive skin and delicate areas. The fast-setting, flexible Strip Wax has a fruity watermelon aroma and allows for easy removal of all hair types from the face and body. The Hot Wax Beads have a low working temperature and fast set, and their smooth gel texture and thin application allow for quick, comfortable hair removal.
Artistic Nail Design Rubber Base Coat £19.95 + VAT each www.louellabelle.co.uk Offer flexible protection and a flawless nail foundation with Artistic Rubber Base Coat, available in Clear, Light Pink and Cover Beige. Following nail prep, apply two coats of your chosen shade before finishing with Glossing Gel. Alternatively, apply Artistic Colour Gloss or Lacquer after Rubber Base, followed by your chosen Artistic Top Coat.
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NAILTALK
BEHIND THE GRAM Get to know social media nail stars as they offer an insight into their lives & share content creation tips – Leeds Emma Nicholson leeds ma em by ils @na 105K followers
My nail journey I initially pursued a career as a tattoo artist, but my passion for nails took over. I studied Nail Technology for a year at college, after my friends and family took an interest in my nail art skills. At the start of my career, I used the dining table in my dad’s kitchen to carry out nail services – much to his disgust when it got covered with gel polish and glitter, and stained with acetone! I still treat some of my first clients, who have remained loyal throughout various home salon changes. I feel lucky to have a client base that constantly challenges me with nail art requests.
What makes me happy... I love being outdoors and spending quality time with my fiancé, friends and family.
My inspirations When I’m feeling creative, I can find inspiration in anything. Adventurous clients use a gumball machine in my salon named ‘The Mystery Mani Machine’, to determine a nail art design. My favourite season for nail art is Christmas, but I also enjoy when floral and spring designs return.
Fun fact
I enjoy gaming and would love to combine my passion for this with nail art, to create custom-designed controllers.
Social media advice My work started gaining a lot of interest around Christmas 2020. I was featured in Oprah Magazine, on CNN, in Country Living Magazine and many more publications. I find the simplest designs receive more interest, as followers are more likely to recreate them.
My top three social media tips are: 1. Don’t take likes and engagement personally.
They are always fluctuating and are not a reflection of you or your business. 2. Be unique. What works for someone else on social media won’t always work for you. 3. Accept that we don’t and never will understand the algorithm – that’s the point of it! If you’re posting what you think people want to see, it takes the enjoyment out of social media, so post what you want to post.
Career highlight
My biggest career achievement is launching a range of products in collaboration with Niba. We worked on the collection, Embrace, and its scent, formula and packaging for a year, with the goal to create a unisex spa range. It consists of a cuticle oil pen and dropper bottle, hand and body scrub, hand and body cream and reed diffuser.
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A day in my life A typical day features back-to-back clients and scrolling through social media to discover upcoming nail trends. More recently, I’ve been going outdoors more, which has had a positive impact on my mental health and attitude towards work. When you work from home and sit down all day, it’s important to take breaks and leave the house for fresh air.
INDUSTRYINSIDER
Cosmetic THE
Climate The Cosmetic, Toiletry & Perfumery Association (CTPA) explores what the government’s policy change means for the cosmetics animal testing ban BY CAROLINE RAINSFORD
Head of scientific services at The CTPA
IN THE PRESS: THE COSMETICS ANIMAL TESTING BAN
Y
ou may have seen media reports in May suggesting that animal testing of cosmetic ingredients could restart, following the result of a UK High Court ruling. Shortly afterwards, the UK government issued a statement explaining that no new licences will be granted for animal testing of chemicals that are exclusively intended to be used as ingredients in cosmetics products. This article explains what the High Court ruling was about, and why the government announced that it would stop issuing licences when animal testing is already banned for cosmetics.
the UK and Europe are safe, the ingredients in cosmetics are also subject to other chemical safety laws. One of these laws is called REACH (Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals), and one of its main aims is to ensure the safety of workers who might be exposed to chemicals and the safety of their environment. Unfortunately, the REACH Regulation sometimes requires substances to be tested on animals as a last resort. This is not a satisfactory situation for the cosmetics industry, because we are committed to ensuring the safety of the chemicals we use without the need for animals, and we continue to work with the regulatory authorities to promote the acceptance of non-animal tests.
As the REACH chemicals law is a separate law from the Cosmetics Regulation, Isn’t animal testing already companies who make cosmetic banned for cosmetic ingredients ingredients can find themselves in and products? What was the High Court a ‘regulatory dilemma’ where animal ruling all about? Yes – the UK cosmetics industry voluntarily stopped animal testing on products in the testing is banned under the Cosmetics Cruelty Free International (CFI) took the UK 1990s, around a decade before the ban was Regulation, but the authorities are government’s Home Office to court. The introduced across Europe. The bans under the insisting that the company has to court case centred around two issues; that UK and EU Cosmetics Regulations mean that the Home Office did not communicate about conduct animal testing to meet for cosmetics sold in the UK, neither products the fact that it changed its policy on issuing the requirements nor their ingredients can be tested on animals animal testing licences in 2019, and that the of REACH. anywhere in the world, if the testing has been done policy itself was not lawful. to meet the requirements of these laws.
The chemicals law called REACH As well as the UK Cosmetics Regulation and EU Cosmetic Products Regulation, which are the laws ensuring that cosmetic products in 28 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
On 5 May, the High Court issued a ruling rejecting the challenge brought by CFI, so the Court ruled in favour of the government. The story begins in 1998, when the UK government had a policy that chemicals that are exclusively or mainly used in cosmetics could not be tested on animals.
INDUSTRYINSIDER CTPA welcomed the In 2014, the European Chemicals Agency government’s announcement (ECHA) and the European Commission that no new animal testing licences issued their legal interpretation of how would be granted for chemicals the animal testing ban in cosmetics only used in cosmetics, because the interacts with the REACH chemicals cosmetics industry is committed to law. The EU view was not the same as using non-animal methods to prove the UK government’s view at the time, the safety of its ingredients. The new because the EU view was that animal government policy builds on the testing could occur on chemicals world-leading animal testing bans exclusively used in cosmetics to meet the requirements under REACH. This was that have been in place in the to prove the safety of the chemicals for UK for decades. the environment, and for workers handling the chemicals in factories. In 2019, the UK government brought its position in line with the rest of the EU. This meant that licences for animal testing could be granted for chemicals only used in cosmetics, if their safety for the environment and workers needed to be proven under the REACH law, and no other suitable animal-free methods were available to prove their safety. In 2020, there was a major court case in the EU whereby a cosmetic ingredient manufacturer took the EU authorities to court, because the authorities were insisting that the company should conduct animal testing on one of its cosmetic-only chemicals, to prove its safety. The company did not want to conduct animal testing because it could prove the safety of the ingredient using animal-free methods. Unfortunately, the company lost the court case. In 2021, following a request for information by CFI, the Home Office confirmed that it had changed its policy and brought it in line with the EU back in 2019. Therefore, the complaint from CFI centred around the fact that the policy change was not communicated until 18 months after it had occurred, and whether the policy itself was legally sound. The court ruled in favour of the UK government.
What does the cosmetic industry think about this? Members of the CTPA team, along with other animal-free science experts, met with the Home Secretary before the ruling was announced, because we fully support this ban on issuing new licences for animal testing. We believe that non-animal methods and approaches already exist, meaning that animal testing is not needed to demonstrate that cosmetic ingredients are safe for workers in factories. We are really pleased that the UK took this action, because it shows that the government is also committed to animal-free chemicals safety assessment: something that our industry has been working towards for decades.
CTPA is proud to promote non-animal safety science. The company works hard to promote acceptance of, and education in, animal-free safety assessment methods. For example, Despite the Court ruling in favour of the government, the CTPA hosted a workshop in 2022, gathering together government reconsidered its policy and shortly after scientists, NGOs, academia and regulators to the ruling was issued, it announced that no new Most chemicals are used promote the use of this science, known as New licences will be granted for animal testing of across lots of different Approach Methodologies (NAMs). CTPA has a chemicals that are exclusively intended to be product types. For example, programme in place to support its members in used as ingredients in cosmetics products. the same chemical might be demonstrating the safety of cosmetic products used as a cosmetic ingredient, and ingredients, using innovative and proven but also in medicines, toys, scientific methods that do not involve the use of animals. household products etc.
What action did the government take?
There are not many chemicals that are exclusively used as cosmetic ingredients.
CTPA and its members promoted and supported the introduction of the European ban on animal testing of cosmetic products and their ingredients under cosmetics laws, and we actively campaigned for these bans to be retained under UK law for cosmetics after Brexit.
Should I look for products that say ‘cruelty-free’ or ‘not tested on animals’? In reality, all cosmetics sold in the UK could make this claim. The UK cosmetics law bans claims which state that the product complies with legal requirements, since the ban on animal testing applies equally to all cosmetic products on the UK market. Therefore, the cosmetics law is very clear that ‘cruelty-free’ and ‘not tested on animals’ claims are only allowed when companies can demonstrate that no animal testing has ever happened in the past. www.ctpa.org.uk
@TheCTPA
@thectpa
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 29
INDUSTRYEVENT
L-R: Scott Derbyshire, Samantha & Samuel Sweet, Helena Biggs, Marian Newman BEM & Alex Fox
Sweet disruption Join Scratch at the fifth instalment of Sweet Squared’s The Event: a two-day extravaganza that brought hair, nail & beauty pros together to celebrate, learn & be stunned… HELENA BIGGS REPORTS
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T
he Vox in Birmingham was the perfect venue for a powerful industry gathering: one that presented a feast for the senses and captured attention for all the right reasons.
Hosted by award-winning beauty distributor, Sweet Squared, the fifth instalment of The Event was eagerly anticipated, following a postponement due to the pandemic. Continuing its ethos to ‘serve the pro with love and respect’, Sweet Squared offered an opportunity for hair, nail and beauty pros to learn, network and party across two days.
It was here that we were greeted by Sweet Squared co-founders, Samuel and Samantha Sweet, and served a welcome drink, which we enjoyed while chatting to familiar industry faces in the glass-walled venue. A surprise was in store when double doors Arriving mid-afternoon on opened to a vast space Sunday 21 May, Scratch’s with theatre-style seating CEO & publisher, Scott and a runway in the Derbyshire, and I, arranged Jim & Linda Nordstrom, co-founders centre. Guests took to meet with Marian Newman of Famous Names Products to their seats as lights BEM and Scratch co-founder, flashed and music built the excitement, Alex Fox. We had all been told to expect the before CND™’s co-founder, Jan Arnold, unexpected – and made our way into the and Kevin.Murphy’s creative director, quirky conference centre on the second floor James Nicholson, entered the arena. of entertainment complex, Resorts World.
INDUSTRYEVENT
What came next was a cleverly constructed and jaw-dropping delivery of talent: a catwalk show themed around disruption and its ripple effects on the beauty industry, unveiling changing nail, hair and fashion looks through the decades. Glam rock styles from the 1970s were shown, as well as a Bjork-inspired look, a cameo from Baby of RuPaul’s Drag Race fame, and a nod to the ‘Paris Hilton era’ of the early 2000s.
the nail choices and develop the storyline. “I had no idea how iconic The Event was in the UK nail sector, and it was amazing to be a part of it,” Tamara comments. “The nail team was so organised, with Nataliya Al-Ta’ai leading backstage and Fee Wallace as the stage artist. It was really nice to watch this project come to fruition and see my nails on the runway, alongside those created by Valerie Ducharme, Samantha Birkett-Leigh and fellow CND™ pros.”
Jan Arnold, CND™ co-founder & style director
Models representing each time period strutted down the catwalk, before having their looks transformed live on stage. Nail artist, Fee Wallace, and Kevin.Murphy style master, Caroline Kells, were the ‘disruptors’ for each style: replacing the nails and reworking the hair, before each model showcased their next look to the audience, who watched in awe. “Samuel Sweet called it a ‘tsunami of awesomeness’, and I would have to agree,” shared Jan Arnold in a post-show comment
on Instagram. The CND™ style director had worked with Sweet Squared and a team of nail artists from the UK, US and Canada to bring the creative concept to life, flying in nails from CND™’s archives and using creations loaned by talented pros. One such nail artist was Montréal’s Tamara Di Lullo, who supported the vision by helping to create mood boards, finalise
Tamara Di Lullo with Jan Arnold
As the iconic catwalk show drew to a close, Samuel and Samantha Sweet took to the stage, before kicking off a party back in the reception room. Guests danced to live music and enjoyed street food, celebrating The Event – and the industry – in style.
Education station
The second day welcomed an exciting roster of education, and kicked off with a motivating keynote speech from Ultimate Sales Academy founder, Pete Scott. Feeling empowered, pros ventured to their pre-booked workshops, which included lessons from Fee Wallace on why sometimes ‘less is more’ when it comes to nail art, as well as PlexiGel™ playtime with Sarah Marr and how to offer length and strength – fast, with Nataliya Al-Ta’ai. Multi award-winning salon owner, Liza Smith, attracted an audience in the main room for her masterclass on running a salon business.
Nataliya Al-Ta’ai, Sarah Marr & Fee Wallace
“The Event brings like-minded people together, that are creative, business-savvy and believe in education,” comments Samantha Sweet, co-founder of Sweet Squared. “They inspire each other, and guests leave The Event with new ideas and ways to do things. It also solidifies the relationship we have with our professionals. The Event is a time to celebrate what they do really well, and we partied really well too!” Sweet Squared is the UK&I distributor of nail, beauty & hair brands including CND™, Lecenté, LASHUS & Wax:One. www.sweetsquared.com /SweetSquared @sweetsquared.nails @sweetsquared
Liza Smith
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 33
YOU DESERVE THE BEST (AND YOUR CLIENTS)
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TRIPLE Charm
PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT
Explore the qualities of three gel systems from Gelish & how each one can support your clients’ nail needs CHLOE RANDALL REPORTS No nails are identical in their needs, so get clued up on three offerings from Gelish – each with different properties to ensure an appropriate, long-lasting and smooth nail finish for clients. Delve into the benefits of the brand’s Brush-On Builder Gel, Foundation Flex and Structure Gel, and explore the education options available for each.
BRUSH-ON BUILDER GEL
This thick viscosity, clear builder gel in a bottle contains a bio-sourced, light activated bonder that offers great adhesion. Designed to provide strength and support while maintaining flexibility, the formula is non-yellowing and bubble-free and gives the strength and wear of a traditional hard gel, with the ease of soak-off removal. The ratio of oligomers and monomers means that the builder gel has a viscosity that doesn’t sag and is easy to work with. It has the balance of strength to extend past the free edge for a wear time of around 21 days, and it can be infilled. Client suitability: • All nail types requiring extra strength or support. • Clients who struggle to maintain gel polish enhancements for more than a week. • Clients who seek longer length enhancements. The Brush-On Builder Gel can be used to sculpt or as an overlay with a tip, if desired.
Amy Martin, Gelish master educator, shares a nail look three weeks after application, featuring Gelish Brush-On Builder Gel with a gel polish overlay.
Brush-On Builder Gel infill service by Amy Martin, featuring a red Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish overlay.
FOUNDATION FLEX
An ideal product for clients with weak, damaged nails, Foundation Flex offers support and protection while maintaining flexibility. It can be applied either in thin layers or to build structure. Foundation Flex is available in Clear, Cover Beige, Light Pink and Light Nude, and can be used as a ridge filler to create a smooth base for colour application. The Cover Beige shade can hide blemishes on the natural nail. Foundation Flex contains a blend of monomers in the base coat, which cures to a softer consistency with rubberised characteristics, filling in imperfections and ridges and acting as a sticky base when used with Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish.
Foundation Flex in Light Pink, applied by Rhiannon Gilfillan, Gelish master educator.
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Client suitability: • Clients with weak, damaged nails. • Clients who have a very extreme C-curve to their natural nails. • Clients with ridged nails.
Amy Martin showcases a Foundation Flex overlay in Light Pink.
PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT Jenni Hession, Gelish educator, showcases a Structure Gel manicure two weeks after the initial appointment.
STRUCTURE GEL
Structure Gel has a medium viscosity and performs like a soft gel. It can be used to smooth out uneven natural nails, as well as build shape and add support to flat nails while remaining flexible. Structure Gel has a pliable viscosity and can be used for a full set of nails, or to repair individual nails and damaged nail plates. The product can fill in ridges or demarcations to even the surface of the nail plate and is available in 15ml or 50ml pots, or a 15ml bottle, in Clear, Cover Beige or Translucent Pink. It can be used with tips or as a natural nail overlay. A natural nail overlay by Amy Martin, created using Structure Gel and finished with nail art.
Gelish master educator, Debbie Willis, uses Structure Gel on the natural nail with an overlay of Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish in Red Roses.
Client suitability: • Clients who need additional strength to that offered from a gel polish overlay. • Clients having fibreglass or silk treatments to repair splits in the natural nail, along the stress point of the nail plate.
TRAINING SPOTLIGHT
There are two pathways to choose from if you seek to train in any or all of the three systems.
1. Gelish Novice & Conversion courses
2. Structured course
Foundation Flex:
“The course covers product information, application using both tips and forms, infills and removal. As part of the Brush-On Builder Gel training, we show students how to perform quick, beautiful enhancements and how to use Brush-On Builder Gel as an overlay and to extend the nail.
“Within our Gelish Novice & Conversion courses, the application of Structure Gel and Foundation Flex on natural nails is included, as more clients seek services with additional strength,” reveals Debbie Willis, Gelish master educator, South Wales. “Students are shown the benefits of the Debbie Willis products, and the multiple ways each product can be used within each Gelish system.”
• How to apply. • How to use over the natural nail, in conjunction with a layer of Gelish Foundation Gel, or with Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish. • Reasons for use and results. • Smoothing application techniques.
Structure Gel: • How to apply. • Application pointers for Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish. • How to apply as a ridge filler or to repair nails. • How to add additional strength, and smooth and level the surface of the nail.
“The Gelish Structured course educates students on the application of Brush-On Builder Gel and Structure Gel enhancements,” comments Catherine Jimenez, Gelish master educator, Buckinghamshire. “These courses can be offered either virtually or face-to-face. The only prerequisite is that students have completed Catherine Jimenez recognised training in the application of gel polish.
“With Structure Gel, students are shown how to apply a salon length enhancement using Gelish Perfetto Tips. Once the practical training has been completed, students are required to complete three case studies. Feedback on these will be provided to help improve application technique. On successful completion of the case studies, the students will be accredited and a certificate will be issued. “One important aspect of our training is that we are continually there for students, no matter how long after completion of the course. Each student receives a lifelong mentorship as part of their Gelish career.”
“As part of the Brush-On Builder Gel training, we show our students how to perform quick, beautiful enhancements and how to use Brush-On Builder Gel as an overlay and to extend the nail.” To book Gelish training, visit www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk Gelish products are available via www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk, www.gsgroupuk.com & www.salon-services.com /GelishOfficialUK @gelishofficialuk
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NAILTALK
BEAUTY Nail pros share their experiences of joining the beauty industry later in life & offer advice on how to accommodate mature clients REBECCA HITCHON REPORTS
Bloomers The nail industry is bound by a universal love for nail health and appearance, self-care, art, connection and more: a love that isn’t restricted by age. So, is age holding you back from sharing your nail work with the world or expanding your knowledge? And is your business inviting to all ages? Without sounding like a quote from a birthday card, age is just a number – and we’ve sourced inspirational tech and client stories to prove it.
MEET THE TECHS
Three techs who entered the nail industry later in life reveal their career journeys...
Nancy Porter of Nails By Nancy, Shropshire Nancy Porter was 57 and working as an NHS nurse when she decided she wanted to do ‘something new, different and challenging’. “I found being a nurse stressful and enjoy being creative, so I thought ‘why not give being a nail tech a go?’,” she tells Scratch. Surviving a lifethreatening brain haemorrhage four years ago, the pro believes life is too short to wonder ‘what if?’. However, she admits that she did have concerns about her career move. “I wondered if I would be able to break into the nail industry at this later Top tip stage. Would I be able to develop the skills, learn to run a business and most “To anyone considering importantly, offer a great service? How would people judge me leaving joining the nail industry nursing to pursue such a different career? What about the significant later in life, I would recommend financial outlay involved?” But one year later, Nails By Nancy is thriving – and the pro proudly puts this down to hard work. “I told myself that I would develop the skills, keep learning and better my practice every day. Regarding finances, I have invested in quality training and products, rather than being tempted to buy every new nail product that launches,” she says. @nailsbynancyporter
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thorough research into the amount of training and practice that is involved to succeed. Also, consider the physical demands of the role; being a nail tech can involve long hours and strain the back and eyes.”
NAILTALK
Oriana Lowther of Nails By Ori, Nottingham
Dawn Bland of Xpress Nails, Spain After many years working as a secretary, Dawn Bland decided that she needed a career U-turn at 40-years-old. “I have loved painting my nails since I was a teenager, so my husband persuaded me to enrol on a manicure and pedicure course at my local college,” she tells Scratch. “I enjoyed every minute, and decided to spend a further three years training.” However, after obtaining her qualifications, Dawn struggled to find work as a nail pro, attributing this to her age. “Even though my children had left school, meaning I could be flexible with my working hours, nobody in my town wanted to employ a 40-year-old nail tech,” she explains. This prompted her to become self-employed and establish a nail setup in her home, while she undertook part-time work Top tip as a receptionist to gain extra income.
“It’s the quality of your nail work that counts – not your age. If you want to do something badly enough, just go for it.”
“In 2004, my husband and I moved to Spain, and I set up a new home nail space, largely serving the expat community. Business was slow at first, but I have established a loyal client base,” Dawn smiles. “In 2019, I launched an Etsy shop to sell hand-painted presson nails to customers globally. I’m still working at 63 years of age and have no intention of retiring any time soon.” /xpresscustomdesignedpressons @xpressnailsspain
In 2020 at 45 years of age, Oriana Lowther was made redundant after serving 21 years in her previous job. “I found myself in an unexpected situation: I had to start my career from scratch,” she shares. “Given that we were in the middle of a pandemic, finding employment proved difficult. I had considered training in beauty in the past and painting my nails is a self-care act I’ve always loved, so I decided to take the plunge into tekking.” Completing training in 2021, Oriana created a home-based salon space for her business, Nails By Ori. “I found myself lacking in confidence after the redundancy and I’ll admit, I did wonder if I was too old to start a career in nails,” she says. “But I have a supportive circle of people around me, and I’ve learned to believe in myself. It’s so easy to fall into a trap of comparing yourself to fellow nail artists, but it’s Top tip important to champion “There’s no such others. We are privileged thing as ‘too old’ – if you to be in positions to want to be a tech, undertake make others feel good. training and practice. Take There’s room for us all!” time to establish your strengths Nails By Ori @nails__by_ori
and what you enjoy doing, and don’t hesitate to connect with industry pros for advice and support.”
THE CLIENT FILES
Does your business cater to all ages of client? While you may know that your business is welcome to all, is this clear to others – and are you missing out on the benefits of treating mature clients?
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“It is incredibly rewarding to treat older clients, because having their nails done means so much to them, often as one of the only ways they can express their individualism and feel good,” says Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year 2022 & 2023 finalist, Clare Woodcock of The Nail Club, Sunbury on Thames. “I treat 96-year-old client, Gladys, and she loves that she can be bold with her nail Clare Woodcock style. She is often the first of my clients to try a new nail colour! Gladys has opted for shades that many clients aren’t daring enough to try, such as yellow and lime green.”
Hannah Quilliam, Glitterbels education ambassador & owner of Beauty HQ, Southport, reveals that her eldest client, Hannah Quilliam 92-year-old Jackie, chooses the brightest nail colours available. “Taking an interest in what she has been up to, her plans and fascinating stories from her past is a privilege. It allows her to open up to our staff, so that she feels completely welcome in the salon,” she shares.
“As nail pros, we must remember that for mature clients, coming to the salon or being visited by their tech might be the only Laura Peat thing they do that week,” comments Laura Peat, Lecenté educator & owner of Simply Koko, Derby. “Therefore, I make sure that these clients receive my full attention and a pleasant conversation while they are with me.”
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NAILTALK
Nail & skin considerations
The health benefits that your manicure and pedicure treatments can offer to mature clients are invaluable, notes Ellie Fleming of Nails, Ellie Fleming Beauty & Training By Ellie in Hull, whose oldest client, Juliette, is 100-years-old. “For those who have reduced mobility, your services can help them care for and maintain the health of their hands and feet, when they are no longer able to do this themselves,” she says.
“When treating a mature client, a consultation is vital to ascertain any medications they are taking, or any health conditions they have, that will affect the way in which you perform the treatment and the products you use,” notes Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year finalist, Charlotte Edwards of Nails By Charl Eds, Warwickshire. “You need to remember that mature clients’ skin is often thin, and nails and cuticles can be dry, so I recommend using hydrating creams and cuticle oil in Charlotte Edwards appointments, then retailing these for homecare use.” One health condition that may affect how you carry out a mature client’s nail service is arthritis. “Those that suffer with arthritis in their hands struggle to paint their own nails, so nail techs are invaluable to them,” details Clare Woodcock. “The condition can make it trickier for clients to put their hands iin a UV/LED lamp, so I take extra care in helping them get their positioning right within the lamp, to ensure a proper cure.” Ellie Fleming adds that heated treatments, including heated hand and foot masks, paraffin treatments and hot towels, are enjoyed by her mature clients, and are particularly beneficial for those with joint pain and arthritis.
The client experience
Product picks “Mature clients are more likely CND Plexigel Shaper £22.45 + VAT to have thicker nails, which www.sweetsquared.com are prone to ridges,” says Charlotte Edwards. “It’s crucial to not buff these – instead, apply a ridge filler or builder gel to give nails a smoother finish.” She uses CND Plexigel TM Shaper on ridged nails. TM
Caroline Roberts, Salon System nail expert & owner of The Nail Fairy, Shifnal, agrees that builder gel is an ideal product for Caroline Roberts older clients, adding: “My mature clients love the results of Gellux Builder Gel, especially those who struggle with fragile nails or have never had long, strong nails. Most opt for natural nail looks but require strength, making builder gel the perfect product for them.” Salon System Gellux Builder Gel in Light Pink £11.95 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.
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“The mature clients that I treat tend to seek company more than young clients, so enjoy a chat,” details Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year Quynh Nguyen finalist, Quynh Nguyen of Tip To Toe, Lewisham. “As a mobile tech, I like to offer a self-care experience by A gel polish manicure by Quynh Nguyen for one of her mature clients. chatting about their interests, telling them to sit where they feel most comfortable in their home, and encouraging them to wear clothing they feel most relaxed in.” Beyond this, mature clients need to be accommodated in terms of salon spaces being accessible. “I ensure that if clients use mobility aids, their route to the treatment area is both level and offers enough space, before they can be made comfortable with extra cushions or supports, if needed,” shares Ellie Fleming. “If a client is unsteady on their feet, I escort them in and out of the salon, and ensure that any surfaces they walk on are non-slip,” adds Nancy Porter.
Marketing matters
When marketing to attract mature clients, it’s important to consider which strategies will appeal to them and where they may notice your business. Quynh Nguyen tells Scratch that she has attracted her base of mature clients via word of mouth methods, as well as through local Facebook group adverts and recommendations. For social media marketing, Clare Woodcock notes that you entice what you show. “Therefore, sharing images or videos of different types of hands on social media shows that all clients are welcome at your business,” she says. “Social media is full of model-like hands, but the majority of clients don’t have hands like that, and people like to see real people. Whenever I post a picture of my client, Gladys’ nails, I receive the most engagement.”
An image of a mature client’s manicure, used to promote Charlotte Edwards’s nail services.
“I’d also thoroughly consider hand positions when trying to pose mature clients for marketing photos or videos,” adds Charlotte Edwards. “You may find some clients will struggle with certain poses due to conditions like arthritis, so find a comfortable position for them that still showcases their nails.”
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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
y r t n E
benefits Keen to try your hand at Scratch’s annual photographic competition? Former winners share the benefits… For many nail pros, the idea of entering a competition can be daunting. However, Scratch’s annual photographic contest, The Great Scratch Shoot Out, is a great way to step into the competition domain. It has an online entry format and can help you forge industry relationships and benefit from feedback.
: S E S O L C ENTRY 3 2 0 2 t s u g u 31 A T @ 5pm BS
1. Build your portfolio The images you produce during your photo shoot can be used for marketing materials, to build your portfolio, or brighten up your website, social media or salon space. Use the shoot as a chance to capture a variety of concepts.
The Great Scratch Shoot Out is your chance to snap a winning shot and share your nail talent with the world. Open to any skill level with no set theme, the competition embraces the opportunities of photographic nail work, where creativity knows no bounds, and allows pros to showcase their artistic flair without the pressure of a live arena. The competition asks participants to combine their nail skills with a creative team, to produce a standout image. This involves planning and executing a photo shoot and teaming up with the likes of a photographer, model, hair stylist and make-up artist where required. With entries closing next month, here are some reasons why you should enter – and don’t forget to read our checklist of what to consider before clicking the ‘submit’ button…
The 2022 winning image, created by Ania Kesiak.
2. Make new contacts
2021’s winning image, created by Lucy Allen.
3. Work with brands
Lucy Allen
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Through working with other creatives on a photo shoot, you’ll gain a list of creative contacts, new skills and experiences. Making such contacts means that you may be called upon for projects in the future, should other creatives require a nail professional. Be polite, make a good impression, and be sure to share the finished results with them – and credit one another for the job.
If working with your favourite nail brand is something that interests you, then The Great Scratch Shoot Out is your chance to get noticed and broaden your career opportunities. “Since winning, I’ve been made a brand representative for INK London, a brand I’ve used and loved for years, which is a huge honour,” comments Lucy Allen, The Great Scratch Shoot Out winner 2021. “I’ve also seen an increase in the number of people wishing to book appointments with me, and now have a waiting list.”
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
4. Get creative This competition allows nail techs to get creative in a way that they aren’t able to in their everyday role. It may be that session work piques your interest after entering The Great Scratch Shoot Out, and might be another area of the industry to explore. Alternatively, you may find that you are more creative with your nail designs following the competition, allowing you to offer new suggestions to clients. “My competition shoot really boosted my creative mojo, so I’ve had a lot of fun creating inventive nail styles in the studio for clients since,” adds Lucy Allen.
5. Be a role model Competitions like The Great Scratch Shoot Out give you a platform to show what you can do. Success may draw the attention of others, who may ask you to share wisdom and advice.
Ania Kesiak
“After winning, I was noticed by colleges and asked to give inspirational talks about entering competitions to their students,” comments Ania Kesiak, winner of The Great Scratch Shoot Out 2022. “It was a great honour, so much fun and I was even offered the chance to become a lecturer!”
Check it!
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6. Gain rewards Each entrant receives a certificate of entry, a glossy print of their entry or entries and a free digital subscription to Scratch. There is also the chance to scoop cash prizes for 2nd and 3rd places, and the coveted 1st place receives all these benefits, as well as a trophy and winner’s feature in Scratch.
Founder of The Great Scratch Shoot Out & director of Nailympia Competitions, Alex Fox, shares why entering this competition is beneficial to nail pros…
Submit it!
Ready to enter? Before hitting the ‘submit’ button, take a close look at your image beside the criteria and ask yourself the following: • Is your image cropped to an A4 aspect, and are you happy with the crop? • Has the image been refined to your satisfaction at the retouching stage? • Is your entry in high resolution?
“The Great Scratch Shoot Out is a fantastic pathway to express your creativity and show what you can create using nail skills, while also considering the hair, make-up, props and styling of an image.
When your entry is ready, head to scratchmagazine.co.uk/ shootout and via the online form, upload your entry and pay.
“Producing a stunning image can be such a rewarding experience; it lets creative juices flow and it’s fun. It also affords a series of images that you can use for salon posters, on your salon menu or social platforms, and it can get you noticed by industry peers and brands.
Scan here for all the entry details and to submit your photo
“Showing that you have this creative this creative arm can lead to opportunities including editorial shoots, backstage work, advertising campaigns and more. Take the plunge, give it a try and see what you can create. It’s refreshing to get out from behind the desk, with a project that feeds your love of nails and rewards with a series of stunning imagery that will be seen in Scratch. And you might just win!”
www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/shootout /scratchmag @scratchmagazine @scratchmagazine SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 43
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Nail
NATURALNAILCARE
Do you know what to do when faced with a natural nail concern? CALLIE ILEY shares pointers & product picks for 15 common nail issues The natural nail is the foundation of any great nail enhancement, so knowing how to approach common issues if and when they present themselves is key. Here, Scratch shares 15 natural nail concerns with a selection of product recommendations and expert advice, to instil confidence in your next steps and ensure appropriate care for the client.
Addressing the issue “The condition of the natural nail can be affected by a variety of factors, such as nutritional deficiencies, exposure to harsh chemicals, ageing, medical conditions, trauma, improper nailcare, fungal infections and hormonal changes,” says owner & director of PersoNAILity, Jenni Draper. “It’s Jenni Draper important to take your client on a nailcare journey and educate them on appropriate homecare, while addressing any underlying health issues. In doing this, you and the client can work together to maintain the health and strength of their natural nails.” “It’s vital to appropriately recognise and inform the client of any potential issues, and how these might affect the longevity of the nail service, if it’s deemed appropriate to perform one,” explains Claudia Sear, owner of Claudia Sear – Luxury Eco Nails, Maresfield. “Clients appreciate a thorough consultation. If they understand their nail health, Claudia Sear realistic expectations are set and the opportunity to retail additional services and products is opened up.”
Your right to refuse As a nail pro, you need to be able to recognise issues, in order to decide whether or not to proceed with a service and when to refer to a medical practitioner, as you can recognise medical nail conditions but cannot diagnose or treat them. “Don’t be afraid to refuse treatment if you’re concerned about the natural nail health of the client,” advises Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year finalist, Emily Jones. “The client will trust your judgement and be thankful in the long run. On two separate occasions this year, regular clients have presented natural nail issues, and in both instances, Emily Jones I refused treatment with their consent. I think this is something that needs to be normalised in the industry. Covering up issues with gel polish isn’t going to make them go away!”
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. Nails by Mariola Kozuszek of Nails Academy, Luton, featuring Q Better Nails IQ Builder Base in Fresh Beige, available via www.nailslaundry.co.uk
Key causes of common natural na
il issue
s: 1. Medical conditions & illnesses 2. Trauma 3. Medication or medical treatment 4. Aggravated nail prep or removal 5. Poor aftercare 6. Hormones (e.g. meno pause, pregnancy) 7. Exposure to water 8. Exposure to chemica ls
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DIABETIC CLIENTS
When welcoming a client with diabetes to enjoy your nail services, be aware of the increased risk of infection, due to the client’s weakened immune system as a result of the condition. Diabetes can also be the cause of ridges in nails.
Nail Knowledge warns against the use of sharp tools, such as scissors and E-files, due to the potential Footlogix Anti-Fungal effects they can have on a Toe Tincture Spray diabetic clients’ health. Use £14.50 + VAT/RRP £29 light pressure and be mindful www.louellabelle.co.uk of the temperature of water during pedicures. Learn more about how to support clients with diabetes by scanning here
CNDTM Kanga File 95p + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
NATURALNAILCARE
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Onycholysis, or nail separation, is caused by the nail bed responding to irritation from an allergen or damage from the hyponychium being broken. A dermatologist must carry out an allergy test to determine the cause of onycholysis. A nail with this condition should be kept short, with all coatings removed, and should be oiled regularly.
Yasmin Hodge of @gelsbyyas uses clear builder gel to add strength to the natural nail.
Emily Jones highlights a strengthening overlay as one of her go-to solutions for this nail type. “There are so many base coats and overlays suitable for bendy and brittle nails. These options allow me to tailor my treatments accordingly to clients, and give the right amount of strength to those who need it.”
Margaret Dabbs Nail Strengthening Treatment RRP £16 www.margaretdabbs.co.uk With a natural rosy tint for a clean and classic, low-maintenance finish, this strengthening treatment has a vitamin-packed formula to promote growth and aid hydration.
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DISCOLOURED NAILS
Yellowing or discolouration of the natural nails can happen due to a range of external factors, such as smoking, fake tan or overlays, but is more likely to occur on damaged nails. Avoid stained nails by using a protective base coat. Mavala Mava-White £8.48 + VAT/ RRP £15 www.mavala.co.uk Designed to react with UV light, Mavala’s Mava-White is an optical colour perfector with a matte finish, combatting stained nails.
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PSEUDOMONAS
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Pseudomonas, also known as ‘greenies’, often occur due to water being trapped between the natural nail and an enhancement, but can also be due to poor sanitation. According to Nail Knowledge, greenies should not be worked over, to ensure the infection doesn’t spread. The education platform advises carefully removing any coatings on the nail and leaving it bare until the infection has grown out. Reapplication of coatings should then be avoided, as research has proven that secondary infections can occur due to the exposure of proteins within the nail plate.
KEEP IT CLEAN!
Salon System Gellux Prep + Wipe £4.20 + VAT. Available from wholesalers nationwide.
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LCN Connex Silver Plus £16.20 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Suited to dry and brittle nails, LCN’s Connex Silver Plus bonding agent uses the power of antifungal colloidal silver, while working to maximise the adhesion of LCN gel products to the nail plate.
@nailstark showcases yellow, stained nails, caused by lacquer application directly onto the natural nail.
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Jessica Recovery Base Coat £7 + VAT/RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com Recovery Base Coat is specially formulated for nails that have lost moisture, become brittle and snap easily. Its hydrating formula allows the nail to retain moisture, to improve flexibility and strengthen it from within.
Insta
Are your clients complaining of nails that regularly split, peel or break? Bendy and brittle nails have a range of causes, with Nail Knowledge noting dehydration, nutrient deficiencies, harsh chemicals, water, medical conditions, hormones, ageing and lifestyle habits as key factors.
ONYCHOLYSIS
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BENDY & BRITTLE
YOSHI Rubber Base £6.90 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk This product can be used as a base coat for YOSHI gel polish, or to smooth the surface of the natural nail and aid strength. Available in seven shades, it eliminates discolouration and supports product adhesion.
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Jessica Brilliance Top Coat £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.50 www.gerrardinternational.com Preventing chipping, smudging and yellowing, Jessica’s Brilliance Top Coat offers a high gloss, shiny finish.
Mundo Nail Plate Cleanser £6.95 + VAT & Lint Free Gauze Wipes (200pk) £2.95 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk Suited to any nail system, wipe nails using a Lint-Free Gauze Wipe with Nail Plate Cleanser to thoroughly cleanse and provide greater adhesion for enhancements.
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NATURALNAILCARE
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DELAMINATION
Trauma to the nail and its surrounding skin caused by nail biting and skin picking can be hard to address, due to the repetitive nature of the habit. According to Nail Knowledge, nail biting can affect the free edge, hyponychium, nail beds, nail folds and cuticles.
Delamination, or peeling nails, is an extremely common natural nail condition, which can have a range of causes – from hormones to poor product removal and exposure to cleaning products. “I often work with clients who do a lot of handwashing, cleaning and laundry, so I see many cases of delamination at first appointments,” Claudia Sear shares. “The most common problem I see at my nail desk is delamination,” agrees OPI nail boss, Emma Brock. “Dryness or even a minor trauma on the distal edge of the nail plate can cause the bonds between the layers to break. “If a client presents delaminated nails, keep the nails short and opt for a rounded shape. Encourage the client to moisturise their hands, oil cuticles regularly and wear gloves when cleaning, as chemicals and water can weaken nails over time.”
Emma Brock
OPI Repair Mode £18.90 + VAT/ RRP £29.90 www.opiuk.com OPI Repair Mode penetrates the surface of the nail to build new bonds and repair the keratin structure from within the natural nail.
Emma Brock shows a client’s nails before and after treatment.
BEFORE
NAIL BITING & SKIN PICKING
Overlays, nail sculpting and nail art can be effective methods to reduce nail biting. Skin picking is generally seen in clients suffering from stress or mental health conditions, which often require mental health support away from the nail desk.
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RIDGES
Presenting as both vertical and horizontal lines, ridges in the nails can be a sign of an existing medical condition, age or trauma. It’s important to first identify the cause of the grooves.
AFTER
Glitterbels Square Buffer 90p inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
According to Nail Knowledge, grooves in the nail should never be buffed away, as this can thin the nail plate. Instead, opt for a ridge-filling base coat, or use coatings like gel polish or builder gel to disguise minor grooves.
IBX Strengthen & Repair Duo £55 + VAT www.louellabelle.co.uk IBX Strengthen & Repair work together to smooth ridges and repair damage to nails, suitable for use alone or under enhancements.
CND Rescue RXx™ £10.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com CND Rescue RXx™ is a daily keratin treatment that supports damaged, delaminated nails by adding strength with keratin protein and jojoba oil.
BEFORE
AFTER
Jessica Fusion £11.20 + VAT/RRP £21.50 www.gerrardinternational.com Fusion contains rubberised resins which fuse the delicate layers of the nail, while vitamin A strengthens and conditions for growth.
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Nailcare specialist, Laura Chree of Chreeative Nails, showcases results from IBX’s Strengthen & Repair Duo.
INGROWN TOENAILS
Nail Knowledge states that onychogryphosis, or ingrown toenails, is a condition where the nail grows into the nail fold, causing inflammation and pain. It often presents due to genetics, shoe choice, sports, hygiene or certain illnesses. Refer clients with ingrown toenails to their medical practitioner, as the condition requires treatment from a GP.
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Mavala Ridge Filler £5.07 + VAT/RRP £9.10 www.mavala.co.uk Mavala’s Ridge Filler works to even out ridges and grooves on the nail, presenting a smooth surface.
“I’ve introduced IBX into my services and it’s a gamechanger,” shares Claudia Sear. “The Repair product works like double-sided sticky tape to hold flaking layers together, while Strengthen works inside the layers of the nail plate, crosslinking to itself. This adds amazing strength and prevents further layers from separating.”
NATURALNAILCARE
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Removals gone wrong
SPLITTING
“The most common nail concern that I see with clients is damage from the incorrect removal of artificial nails,” says Jenni Draper. “This can be a result of gel nails being removed badly, enhancements being picked off, or waiting too long between artificial nail treatments. These damaged nails normally present with ‘rips’ along the nail plate or ridges on the nail bed.”
Often seen alongside peeling, splitting nails are most often caused by hormones or trauma to the nail. BEFORE
AFTER
CND PlexiGel™ Shaper £22.45 + VAT www.sweestquared.com Ideal for all nail types, Shaper offers a highstrength protective barrier for the natural nail, and can be used to fill cracked nails, fix breaks and shape.
Split nails protected by an overlay, as shown by Emily Jones.
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OVER-FILED NAILS
Often happening gradually over time, over-filed nails look sore and red, often with white patches. If a client has over-filed nails, keep the nails short with no enhancements, do not file the nails further, perform light cuticle work only and remind the client to apply oil regularly. “A regular client went elsewhere for a nail enhancement service that I don’t offer,” remembers Emily Jones. “At her next appointment, her nails were so sore and tender, due to over-filing and incorrect removal, so I refused treatment for three months. She is on her third appointment since then, and her natural nails have never been so long and healthy.”
Morgan Taylor Daily Elixir £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.95 www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk /www.louellabelle.co.uk Offering instant results, Morgan Taylor’s Daily Elixir Keratin Nail Treatment uses keratin peptides to correct, repair and protect splitting nails.
Rhiannon Gilfillan of @rlgbeauty recommends Morgan Taylor Daily Elixir to clients, beginning treatment in the salon to be continued daily at home.
Protein Formula For Nails in 4 – I Strengthen £7.50 + VAT/ RRP £14.95 T: 01827 280080 sales@graftons.co.uk This formula helps to re-structure and strengthen damaged nails, while promoting hydrated and moisturised, healthy nails.
Laura Chree suggested IBX Strength & Repair to this client, who picked off their gel polish enhancements and neglected nailcare.
Mavala Scientifique K+ £11.02 + VAT/RRP £19.50 www.mavala.co.uk Supporting fragile, splitting nail tips, Mavala Scientifique K+ utilises active ingredients to harden the nail plate. Apply to the free edge and leave for one minute, repeating twice weekly.
SANITISING STATION
Glitterbels Sanitiser Spray £8.95 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
Mundo Sanitizing Hand Gel from £2.50 + VAT www.mundoproducts.co.uk
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LCN Natural Nail Boost Keratin Advanced in Nude Charm £26.50 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk Strengthen, protect and care for natural nails with LCN’s Natural Nail Boost, regenerating the nails using synthetic keratin while supporting hydration and flexibility. Available in Clear, Nude Charm and Rose Glimmer.
DAMAGED TOENAILS Damaged toenails can present as bruising, or even no nail altogether, caused by trauma. Depending on the damage, a range of solutions can be offered to the client. If the client requires a full or partial toenail reconstruction or wishes to hide discolouration, opt for a reconstruction gel product formulated specifically for toenails, such as LCN’s Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus, available in five shades.
LCN Wilde-Pedique Silver Plus Toenail Reconstruction Gel in Pink £17.30 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 49
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NATURALNAILCARE
Instagram.com/lunula_emma
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HOOKED NAILS Hooked nails occur when the natural nail bends down, creating a claw-like appearance and presenting problems as the nail grows longer. It’s a common issue following trauma to the finger, such as surgery. The nails can be rebalanced and reconstructed with products such as L&P acrylic, gel and acrygel, to improve structure and shape. LCN FiberTech Gel in Nude £24.40 + VAT www.lcnuk.co.uk
Hook nail reconstruction by @lunula_emma.
Glitterbels Nail File (240-grit) £1.20 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com YOSHI PolyGel in 01 £14.50 inc VAT www.nailslaundry.co.uk
Instagram.com/houseofnails2017
Sweet Squared Double Ended Pushie £7.25 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
@houseofnails2017 shows corrected hook nails.
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NAILS AFFECTED BY CANCER TREATMENT
Chemotherapy can cause many changes to nails. Regular manicures can help delay undesirable effects and manage nail conditions that appear throughout treatment. Be sure to check with the client’s team of medical professionals before proceeding with any nail service. According to a spokesperson at Mavala, the 10 most common nail concerns that arise during cancer therapies include: 1. Ridges 2. Breaking and splitting nails 3. Thickened nails 4. Changes in pigmentation (e.g. hyperpigmentation, staining) 5. Bacterial infections 6. Fungal infections 7. Leukonychia 8. Onycholysis 9. Subungual haemorrhages 10. Inflammation or swelling
Jennifer Young
Magpie Beauty 240/240 Oval Buffer 95p + VAT www.magpiebeauty.co.uk
The Jennifer Young postgraduate diploma in Hand, Nail and Foot Treatment is a certified qualification designed to give spa therapists, beauty practitioners and healthcare workers the understanding, knowledge and confidence to provide treatments to clients experiencing the different stages of cancer. Find out more at www.jenniferyoungtraining.com
Mavala Barrier-Base Coat £11.36 + VAT/RRP £20 www.mavala.co.uk Supporting dehydrated, split, flaking and chipped nails, Mavala’s Barrier-Base Coat has developed to protect sensitive nails, preventing yellowing and adding strength.
Jewels, not tools!
Prevent nail damage caused by opening cans or keyrings, lifting picture frame flaps or picking at tape, by retailing the Keysie. Created by a family-run business in Scotland, the Keysie is a handy plastic tool that clips onto a keyring. It features a bevelled end that fits under ring pulls or stickers, so clients don’t need to use their nails. What’s more, Keysies can be personalised with your business logo. Keysies are available from 85p inc VAT each via www.keysieco.com
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Educate & inform
It’s okay to be unsure about what specific natural nail issue you’re dealing with, and it can always be helpful to get a second opinion. “Knowledge is key,” says Emma Brock. “You need to know what you’re looking at to ensure the right treatment plan, so ask for help from a reliable source.”
NATURALNAILCARE
15
DRYNESS & FLAKINESS
“Many clients have arrived to their appointment with dry nails,” shares Rhiannon Gilfillan. “A cause of this is the ongoing ritual of sanitising hands. The high alcohol content in antibacterial products can dehydrate the nail plate.”
“I can’t recommend using cuticle oil enough. The benefits are endless,” says Emily Jones. “So many of my clients don’t believe me until they start using the product and physically see the difference. Recommend a good handcare routine to your clients, featuring scrubs, moisturisers and most importantly, cuticle oil.” “I explain to clients that cuticle oil will not just enrich the skin surrounding the nail, but penetrate the nail coating,” adds Claudia Sear. “This is important because it helps keep the coating supple, limiting strain on the nail plate and helping the nail growing underneath to stay healthy.”
Morgan Taylor Bare Luxury (Orange & Lemongrass) Butter & Scrub £14 + VAT each www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.louellabelle.co.uk
INK London Super Oil £POA www.inknails.com
Treating dry nails with Rhiannon Gilfillan “I used the Morgan Taylor Bare Luxury range to treat these dry nails. First, I used the Scrub to detox and cleanse the nails, followed by the Massage Butter with nourishing oils and plant extracts.”
“I followed this with Gelish Foundation Flex in Light Nude. The formula features vitamin A and biotin to offer support and protection to the nail, while remaining flexible.”
Gelish Foundation Flex in Light Nude £17.95 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com
Cuticle oils
PersoNAILity Cuticle Balm £10 + VAT www.personaility.co.uk Enriched with natural oils, PersoNAILity’s rich and butter-like Cuticle Balm protects dry and damaged nails and skin.
Gelish Nourish Cuticle Oil £4.99 + VAT www.gelishmorgantaylor.co.uk www.gsgroupuk.com www.salon-services.com
OPI ProSpa Nail & Cuticle Oil £8.90 + VAT/RRP £18.90 www.opiuk.com
Glitterbels Pineapple Cuticle Oil £5.99 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
CND SolarOil™ 15ml £6.95 + VAT/RRP £16.95 www.sweetsquared.com
Protein Formula For Nails £7.50 + VAT/RRP £14.95 each. T: 01827 280 080 sales@graftons.co.uk
Protein Formula For Nails is a prescriptive nailcare
that offers four effective brush-on products, PRODUCT brand packed with protein to support strong, healthy PICK nails in as little as four weeks. The products are
recommended to be used regularly as a base coat.
Jessica Rejuvenation Base Coat £7 + VAT/ RRP £13.50 www.gerrardinternational.com This Base Coat features Protein KSW, water, jojoba oil, aloe vera and vitamin E to heal and condition natural nails. SoBodyCo Peptigen+ Multi Collagen £POA www.sobody.co
COLLAGEN IN A CUP
Do you offer refreshments to your nail clients? Consider the upsell of an added dose of collagen, by stirring in a scoop of Peptigen+ Multi Collagen. The 100% natural and flavourless super-food supplement provides 9g of protein and 10g of collagen per scoop and supports long, strong hair and nails.
“Proteins are made up of many building blocks, known as amino acids,” comments a spokesperson from Protein Formula For Nails. “Protein and amino acids are essential for healing and repairing damaged tissue, including that of hair, skin and nails. They also increase cell turnover, which is the sloughing off of old skin/hair/nail cells to make room for new cells.” THE FOUR FORMULAS ARE: 1 – I MAINTAIN: For nails that are healthy and generally in good condition, but need balance and maintenance to support growth and strength. 2 – I GROW: For nails that are thin and peeling at the free edge, struggling to grow and need targeted support for strength. If the client has oily skin or hair, their nail type will generally be the same. 3 – I HYDRATE: For nails that are dry, flaky and snap and break at a low point in the nail plate, and need a surge of moisture and hydration. 4 – I STRENGTHEN: For damaged nails that are in generally poor health and need a powerful blend of strengthening ingredients.
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 51
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TECHSPOTLIGHT
READERS GALLERY
French mani fanatic & CND™ master stylist, GEMMA SIVERNS, shares her career tales & chic nail creations
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TECHSPOTLIGHT
Name – Gemma Siverns Age – 38 Business name – Polished by Gem Location – Shrewsbury, Shropshire Years in nails – 20 Trained with – I achieved the NVQ Level 2 qualification in Beauty Therapy at college, and have since continued training with a number of brands, including CND™. I hold a CND™ Master qualification, have completed E-file training with Lucy Pastorelli, and undertaken courses with Fake Bake and Nouveau Lashes. During lockdown, I studied and achieved an NVQ Level 3 education qualification, giving me the knowledge and understanding to start a career in teaching. Favourite product – I love CND PlexiGel™. I have converted the majority of my L&P acrylic clients to PlexiGel TM, as it is so easy to use and achieves amazing results. The brush-in-a-bottle system is designed to be a multi-problem solver for flat, brittle or torn nails, and it offers a flexible yet tough coating that glides onto the nail to help plump, lengthen or repair. Favourite nail technique – I enjoy creating a classic French mani, and many of my clients like to mix up the colour of the tip or add glitter. I’m often asked to create a thin, discreet French; some clients like a deep, sharp curve to the smile line and others prefer a softer style, but either way I love perfecting the versatile look. Favourite nail design – My style is ‘less is more’, as I like simple, understated nail artistry, such as adding a heart or
swirl design to an overlay. I also love floral designs and the ‘glazed doughnut’ manicure. Both styles are popular with clients and look great with any outfit. Career, ambition & vision – When my studio closed during the pandemic, I had time to focus on the future of my career. In between home schooling my two boys and training to be a vaccinator, I achieved an education qualification and now offer accredited one-to-one training courses for those wanting to start a career in the nail industry. A lot of hard work and determination has gone into making sure all my students gain the skills, knowledge and confidence to offer nail services. My vision is to grow the education side of my business and offer group training courses for future students. I’d also like to push myself out of my comfort zone and enter more competitions. I came fourth for Best Gel Nails in the West Midlands, which has given me the desire and encouragement to continue competing. Who do you admire in the industry? Rebecca Crawforth, owner of Navy Professional, is so inspiring. The mum of two, who left school at 13 and found herself jobless and homeless, has grown her business into a hugely popular beauty tool company, supplying over 90 countries with titanium coated tools. She use a family-run British manufacturer to produce her tools and had help from The Prince’s Trust to kickstart her career. Rebecca is an extraordinary woman. www.polishedbygem.co.uk Polished by Gem – Nail Tech and Educator Shrewsbury @polishedbygem
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 55
o t w Ho
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
Hair & beauty business coach, MADDI COOK, shares top tips to elevate your offerings & enhance your profits
DISCOUNTS: ARE THEY A GOOD IDEA? 2023 FINALIST
About Maddi
Maddi Cook is the owner of Boss Your Salon, which helps empower hair and beauty pros to price perfectly, set boundaries and grow without burnout. She strives to ‘put more money into the pockets of the hair and beauty industry’ and believes that business growth is for everyone. Maddi has worked with over 15,000 hair and beauty pros, on her mission to change how the industry values itself. She believes that money is an amplifier; meaning that more money allows workers to do great things: for themselves, their family and their community. Maddi is a finalist in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023 for Services To The Nail Industry.
“The best way to take care of one another is to show a mutual respect. And in business, that means paying for your time and expertise, following your policies, respecting your working hours and paying the prices you set.” www.bossyoursalon.com /bossyoursalon @bossyoursalon 56 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
H
owdy, nail boss! We’ve all been faced with the dilemma of giving a discount to friends and family. While it may seem like a good deed to hook up your loved ones, let’s dig into why offering discounts might not be the best move for your business. Join me as I spill the tea on why it’s important to tread lightly when it comes to slashing prices for your nearest and dearest. First of all, the model in our industry is trading time for money. There are only so many hours in a day, and doing nails isn’t easy on the body, to say the least. Many people either offer ‘mates rates’ treatments during the week (and so make less money in that time than from a full-paying client), or ‘squeeze them in’ outside of working hours. This can cause feelings of resentment and tiredness. Some pros have been known to take their nail kit to a hen weekend or Christmas dinner to perform free nail services. This is both your reminder and permission to never do that! Secondly, this can quickly end up feeling like a one-way street. Yes, if you do a freebie for a family member who takes care of your kids so you can work, then fill your boots. But for most people, the benefit of these discounts only goes in one direction – and when you see your clients so regularly, these can soon stack up. Let’s say you’re giving a £20 discount every four weeks; that’s a whopping £260 per year that’s missing from your pocket. I’d always recommend looking at the numbers, because once you add up all the discounts and freebies over the longer term, you really see the true cost of not charging what you should.
Sometimes, friends and family can be our worst clients. They can waltz in 20-minutes late with a coffee in hand (and not even one for you!), and whip out hands featuring picked-off nails that haven’t even heard the words ‘cuticle oil’. Then, they can show you a photo of intricate, detailed nail art, and ask to be out in an hour so they can meet the girls for bottomless brunch. They can also often see us as hobbyists, asking how ‘your little nail business’ is doing. And I wonder if this is because they know us first and foremost as their school friend, their baby cousin, or their next-door neighbour, and as a professional and business owner second? Our clients meet us as the pro first, and the personal relationship is built on top of that. A good rule of thumb is, ‘would I accept this from any other client?’. If the answer is no, then something needs to change. And yes, it’s hard. It feels like the stakes are higher when it comes to friends and family. Maybe you worry that they’ll think you’re ‘big for your boots’, or that ‘family should take care of family’. However, the best way to take care of one another is to show a mutual respect. And in business, that means paying for your time and expertise, following your policies, respecting your working hours and paying the prices you set. If friends and family can’t do that, there are plenty of other nail artists they can go to – and pay full price. Showing love to our friends and family is important, but let’s find better ways to do it than slashing prices and feeling resentful or taken advantage of. You deserve it.
Maddi x
If you want to grab my guilt-free, word-for-word script to scrap discounts, check out my FREE online masterclass: How To Overcome The 5 Most Common Pricing Mistakes at www.bossyoursalon.com/masterclass
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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT
Built up &
Beautiful
Get set to stun with 60 Builder-Bel shades from Glitterbels, designed to aid strength, build shape & complement all skin tones. CHLOE RANDALL explores…
T
o celebrate what could be the biggest range of builder gel shades to be presented to the nail industry, Glitterbels hosted a grand party on 25 June, inviting guests to ‘builder gel heaven’ in a day packed with demos and opportunities to swatch and shop.
Annabel Maginnis
It’s an exciting launch for the brand as it diversifies its range of 11 Brush On Builder Gels, by introducing 60 in a Hema-free formula. “The soak-off formula of the Builder-Bel Gels allows pros to build short extensions with a form or tip, add strength to the natural nail and build shape,” comments Annabel Maginnis, co-founder of Glitterbels. “We have been perfecting the Builder-Bel range for two years; testing extensively on those
with various lifestyles and careers to ensure a durability and longevity that can be loved by all.” Builder-Bel Gel can be infilled, and it’s recommended that infills take place every three to four weeks.
Shades & style The 60 hues in the collection feature a variety of finishes; from opaque to semi-sheer and clear, to suit the desires of all clients. “When creating the shades, I considered what Glitterbels techs would want, so I asked them,” shares Annabel. “There are options to suit every mood and season, and each shade has its own personality. I named all colours except ‘My Annabel’ and ‘My Pearl’, which were named and described by my husband, Elliott. “We have created a shade to suit everybody’s personal style, and we hope they inspire our customers to release their inner sparkle!”
“There are options to suit every mood and season, and each shade has its own personality.”
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PRODUCTSPOTLIGHT
“The 60 hues in the collection feature a variety of finishes; from opaque to semi-sheer and clear, to suit the desires of all clients.” APPLICATION
Step 1: Shape and prep the nails, gently pushing back the cuticle and removing any non-living tissue. Cleanse and apply Glitterbels Hema-free Dehydrator and Acid-free Primer, ensuring that you cap the free edge. Apply a thin layer of Glitterbels Hema-free Base Coat and cure for 60 seconds. Step 2: Use the puddle and raindrop method to apply a thin first layer of the chosen Glitterbels Builder-Bel Gel to the nails. Cure for 60 seconds. Step 3: Apply a second, thicker coat of Builder-Bel Gel, placing a drop near the cuticle and using the tip of the brush or a separate gel brush to work the product around the nail. Cure for 60 seconds. Step 4: Cleanse the nail using Glitterbels Diamond Shine Cleanser and a lint-free wipe.
REMOVAL
Step 1: File over the enhancement with the Glitterbels 180-grit Nail File to remove the bulk of product.
Step 5: Refine the sidewalls and free edge using the Glitterbels 180-grit Nail File. Buff the top of the nail if desired.
Step 2: Saturate a cotton pad in Glitterbels Acetone and wrap onto the nail with foil. Allow to soak for 15 minutes.
Step 6: Either apply Glitterbels Hema-free Top Coat and cure, or add nail colour and art using the Hema-free Gel Polish range before curing, applying top coat and curing to finish.
Step 3: Remove the pad and wrap, before using a wooden tool to remove excess product from the nail plate.
ANNABEL’S TOP TIP
Use a Glitterbels Unbelievabel Gel Brush to perfect the application of Builder-Bel Gel. Choose a fine liner brush for application around the cuticle.”
Step 4: Once all product is removed, use a buffer to smooth the surface of the nail and apply cuticle oil.
Each Builder-Bel Gel is £16.99 + VAT. Available from 10 July via www.glitterbels.com
/GlitterbelsbyAnnabel
@glitterbels
SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 59
BUSINESSMATTERS
Face the
music
REBECCA HITCHON rounds up advice on playing music in the nail space, to ensure you’re hitting the right note with clients
J
ust like a nail design, one style doesn’t fit all when it comes to music. Some people love the calming effects of classical tracks, while others turn to pop or rock to enhance their energy levels. For workers, music can serve to inspire creativity and focus, yet it can also distract or overwhelm, so it’s understandable if you’re struggling to get your nail business’ musical formula right. But with 70% of Scratch readers playing music in the nail space, according to our Instagram poll, it’s important to learn how to cater sound to ensure a comfortable experience.
“In my opinion, the beauty industry suits a cross between light chillout and upbeat keyboard instrumental sounds,” shares Glenn Payne, artist & repertoire (A&R) director at GAP MuSic – Tantajo Records. “However, which music works best will depend on clients and professionals. Clients need to feel at ease Glenn Payne and employees require a pleasurable working experience. Music should never offend – it should always enhance.”
Research shows that music directly impacts the areas of the brain most closely associated with emotion, therefore it’s vital that you induce the best feelings in your business. “Music has a subconscious impact, which moulds others’ views of your brand,” notes Michaela Phillips, in-house Halo nail tech & owner of Gelalicious, Medway. “My salon Michaela Phillips is designed to be a sanctuary for clients, so I play mellow music to create this ambience.”
“At GAP MuSic – Tantajo Records, we believe that music is for everyone, and our albums are used by many beauty therapists to create the perfect ambience,” reveals Glenn Payne. “Zen Garden 1 & 2 (Stuart Michael), A Place Beyond Forever (Stephen Rhodes) and Selections 1, 2, & 3 (Terra del Sol) are popular, as well as Music for Gentle Relaxation.” Titles are available via online stores including iTunes and Amazon, and to stream via Spotify, Apple Music and more.
At the heart of the nail industry is a shared goal to promote self-care. “A wellness experience involves bringing tranquillity to all the senses, including hearing,” says Freddie Moross, CEO of Myndstream, a wellbeing-focused salon and spa music streaming service & advisory board member for the Global Wellness Institute. “Just as Freddie Moross guests seek treatments for touch and enjoy food for taste, sound should be valued for the client experience. Its use can set the tone of an environment.” Myndstream’s Spa Music Service provides over 50 programmed soundtracks, and offers two paid services: Essential One for lone workers and Essential Unlimited for salon teams. The company also curates playlists to capture the essence of a business. “Myndstream is proud to work with each salon and spa on an individual basis, to ensure that playlists suit their needs,” notes Freddie Moross. “We can explore making services more wellbeingfocused by using music promoting relaxation. Or, if a salon seeks an energised environment, we can create a playlist to give clients a spring in their step.” www.myndstream.com
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Instrumental idea “When carrying out a treatment designed to relax clients, I play spa music to enhance the experience, and when treating clients who want to chat, I play pop music. I always check that the noise level is suitable and acts as non-distracting background sound.” Laura Peat, Lecenté educator & owner of Simply Koko, Derby
BUSINESSMATTERS
Lawful listening Under The Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988, permission is needed from the relevant copyright holders (those who create music) to play it in public. This is where TheMusicLicence comes in, allowing UK pros to play music in their business through CDs, the radio, TV and other digital devices. “The licence ensures that the owners of music receive fair compensation for the use of their work, and allows musicians, composers and producers to continue creating music,” shares Martin Durrant, founder & director of Secret Salon Club, an online platform dedicated to quality and standards in the home salon industry. “TheMusicLicence ensures compliance with copyright laws, protecting business owners from the legal Martin Durrant consequences of playing music without the necessary permission. It also demonstrates a commitment to professionalism and the proper operation of a business, gaining the trust of clients and building a good reputation.” Martin adds that the licencing fee is based on the type of business and amount of music played. Alternatively, royalty-free music can be accessed without obtaining TheMusicLicence. Scan for more information
Client files: neurodiversity “Music can be an amazing tool for neurodiverse communities, from those with autism to Alzheimer’s,” says Freddie Moross. “It can connect people and make a big difference to communities who feel overlooked. I recommend asking hypersensitive clients how they’d like to feel leaving the appointment. Offer the option of specialist music to support this feeling, rather than encouraging conversation that might deter them.” “When somebody who’s hypersensitive experiences overwhelming feelings as a result of too many layers of noise, their ‘fight, flight or freeze’ instincts may kick in,” explains Fiona Fox, owner of Ulu Beauty, Dorset, who provides training to beauty pros on areas including inclusion. “This could look like avoidance (leaving the source of the noise), a panic attack, withdrawing or shutting Fiona Fox down, an angry outburst, or another reaction which needs to be de-escalated, but could be avoided with planning.” Fiona created a ‘Chat-O-Meter’ to check how clients are feeling and what sounds they are comfortable with. “It allows me to ask about the music playing and if it needs adjusting. I’ve learned that the best way to ask is to use questions like ‘how’s it sounding?’ to encourage clients to open up. I also set their expectations of what they might hear – such as the fact that my E-file sounds like the dentist’s drill and the air con sounds like a helicopter landing.” Download Fiona’s Chat-O-Meter here As a neurodivergent tech, Scratch Stars Gel Polish Stylist of the Year finalist, Emily Langford of Studio 109, Holton le Clay, has a unique insight into how neurodivergent clients are feeling and how music may affect them. “Music is often used to block out or calm overstimulation and sensory overload. I know that if I am in silence, that’s when intrusive thoughts creep in, so sound helps me focus on the nail task Emily Langford at hand,” she explains. “Music can ease an interaction where a first-time client may feel anxious and uncomfortable in a new environment or with an unfamiliar experience, and it also encourages a conversation about the client’s musical interests.”
Instrumental idea “I created a playlist for clients to add their favourite music to for appointments. It features everything from pop, rock and hip-hop to country and foreign language songs, providing a radio-like experience.” Sara Cady, owner & educator at Glamourphile, Lincolnshire
Mobile melodies
For mobile techs, music can be tricky to navigate, with considerations about what is acceptable in clients’ environments. We talk to two Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year finalists to learn their approach to music... “As a mobile pro, it can be hard to create an ambience, as each location is so different,” notes Rachel Clark of Beautyscape by Rachel, Gloucester. “However, I Rachel Clark believe that being mobile makes it easier to do this through making a comfortable space for clients to relax in a familiar environment, rather than via music.” “As I am going into clients’ homes, I feel that it’s not my place to control the music played,” adds Emily Jones of Nailed By Emily, Knottingley. “Therefore, I give clients the choice: Emily Jones some love to chat through appointments, and others opt to stream music or play the radio.”
Instrumental idea “I play soothing playlists at the start of the week, changing these to more upbeat ones as the week progresses. My clients and I dance on Fridays!” Dani Bailey, owner of Alma Studio Nails, Scratch Stars Home Nail Salon of the Year finalist, Bridgend SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 61
THE NAIL INDUSTRY PARTY
THE SCRATCH STARS AWARDS IS SPONSORED BY:
Hosted by
Presenter, Presenter, podcaster podcaster && former former Made Made in in Chelsea Chelsea star star
Jamie Laing
Live performance from Winner Winner of of the the 12th 12th series series of of The The XX Factor Factor && artist artist behind behind hit hit ‘Tears’ ‘Tears’ with with Clean Clean Bandit Bandit
Louisa Johnson
The The Scratch Scratch Stars Stars Party Party 2023 2023 will will take take place place at: at: THE THE UNDERGLOBE UNDERGLOBE 21 21 New New Globe Globe Walk, Walk, Bankside, Bankside, London, London, SE1 SE1 9DT 9DT
Sunday Sunday 23 23 July July 2023 2023 7pm 7pm –– 12.30am 12.30am Prosecco Prosecco reception reception sponsored sponsored by by Enjoy Enjoy two-hours two-hours of of complimentary complimentary house house drinks drinks && see see who who shines shines in in the the Scratch Scratch Stars Stars Awards Awards && The The World’s World’s Star Star Nail Nail Artist Artist competitions! competitions!
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INDUSTRYINITIATIVE
Power in Beauty Beauty Changes Lives founders: Robert Passage, Jan Arnold & Lynelle Lynch
Learn all about Beauty Changes Lives: the non-profit organisation with a mission to build confidence & make beauty a first-choice career HELENA BIGGS REPORTS
O
ver 1,000 people have been given a step up into their chosen hair or beauty profession thanks to philanthropic organisation, Beauty Changes Lives. It has been dedicated to making beauty and wellness a first-choice career through scholarships, mentorships and advocacy since 2012, when it was founded in the US by industry powerhouses: Jan Arnold, Robert Passage and Lynelle Lynch. “Financial assistance and family support are often lacking for cosmetology, aesthetics and nail professionals, and our founders sought to change misconceptions about careers within the industry,” comments Meghan Hayden, communications director at Beauty Changes Lives. “The BCL mission is to support professionals throughout their Meghan Hayden entire career journey, from finding the right school, to scholarships, mentorships and entrepreneurial grants.” Beauty Changes Lives awarded its first cosmetology school scholarship in 2012. After several successful seasons, the disciplines expanded to include future nail professionals, aestheticians, massage therapists and barbers. “Soon after, our founders recognised a need to support newly licenced professionals in their careers, and our Mentorship Matters programme was born,” Meghan continues. “As our scholarship, mentorship and advanced education programmes hit their stride, a new need surfaced: the need for business resources and funding within the industry.”
64 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
In 2020, long-time Beauty Changes Lives supporters & hairstylists, Ted Gibson and Jason Backe, established the Worth Up Alliance, which served to meet this need by providing entrepreneurial grants and tailored mentorship for those wishing to start their own beauty or wellness business. “Our next big venture is to change perceptions about a career in beauty, by sharing the endless possibilities within the industry as told by the people living them,” shares Meghan. “The kNOw Beauty Secrets campaign will disrupt traditional views of beauty careers and vividly illustrate that beauty should be a first-choice profession.”
Scholarships & support Over 620 scholarships have been awarded by Beauty Changes Lives to date. They are open for application seasonally, and each has unique qualifications and steps to apply. Nail scholarships that opened for application earlier this year include: • OPI Round Yourself In Colour Student Scholarship This awards up to $3,000 towards programme tuition, and was open to newly accepted and currently enrolled students in nail technology courses, from an accredited school/institution within the US and Canada. • The Jerry Alexander Gorman Foundation ‘The Passion to Succeed’ Student Scholarship Formed to help those in need achieve their goal of becoming a licenced professional, this $3,500 scholarship was open to newly accepted or currently enrolled students in an aesthetics or nail technology programme that leads to licensure in the US.
INDUSTRYINITIATIVE “Each scholarship applicant submits a video diary responding to unique prompts and questions from the scholarship sponsor,” Meghan explains. “The most impactful video submissions are ones that introduce the judges to their daily lives, share their stories and illustrate the impact beauty has had. In addition, they share the impact they hope to make on their communities through beauty. Our judges want to know the applicants, understand their situations and feel their passion for this industry.” At the close of a scholarship season, all submissions are viewed and scored by a panel of judges comprising industry professionals. They rate each video on factors including the applicant’s demonstration of passion, vision and need. “The top scoring submissions are notified of their placement and are required to provide various documentation from their institutes to complete their eligibility,” adds Meghan. “Once top scoring applicants have completed their eligibility forms, they are celebrated across our network as the newest members of the Beauty Changes Lives family.”
BCL & THE WORLD’S STAR NAIL ARTIST COMPETITION The World’s Star Nail Artist (WSNA) competition was launched by Scratch earlier this year, with CND™ as its platinum sponsor. It seeks to uncover new and innovative talent and unite the global industry through a shared passion for nail artistry. Beauty Changes Lives is the philanthropic partner of The World’s Star Nail Artist, and the contest seeks to both donate funds and offer support through mentorships in the future. Jan Arnold, co-founder of both CND™ and Beauty Changes Lives, made the connection between the organisation and WSNA. “Jan has dedicated her life to the science and art of nail technology and has a passion for serving the professional nail community,” Meghan comments. “She saw a way through this competition to celebrate nail professionals at the top of their craft, while simultaneously advocating for those considering entering the industry and sharing the resources available to them through Beauty Changes Lives. “We hope that this partnership brings greater awareness that this is a valid and valuable career choice. We want all beauty enthusiasts to see that you can have a profession that feeds your creativity and your family at the same time, and that if you choose to pursue it, there are resources available.”
Jan Arnold hugs a recipient of a nail scholarship
The second core challenge in the competition was inspired by a poem called ‘Shine The Light’, shared at a Beauty Changes Lives event in Chicago. Contestants were tasked with using the poem to inspire a set of 10 nails, which could be created using any medium, and required a glossy finish.
Funding The resources that Beauty Changes Lives provides are dependent on the support of major brands and the donations of individuals. “Our main fundraiser takes place every April, in conjunction with America’s Beauty Show in Chicago,” shares Meghan. “Our annual event, known as the Change-Makers’ Gala, is an evening of celebration and recognition for our supporters and the impact we make thanks to their generosity. At this event, we introduce our partners to scholarship recipients that we have supported, share their stories and bring life to our mission.”
Nail partners Beauty Changes Lives has partnered with brands including CND™, KUPA, OPI, Nail Alliance/Morgan Taylor, Premier Nail Source, Rejuvenate, Universal Companies, Valerie Ducharme, Vivian Valenty, Wildflowers and Zurno.
“To achieve greatness and maintain it, one must always be open to learning, improving and challenging oneself,” Meghan continues. “Competitions are key to staying sharp, pushing boundaries and seeing how far you can go. While fun and great exposure, they are also amazing ways to stretch your imagination, innovate and find new ways to achieve what may have been previously deemed impossible.”
Katy Pottle from the UK won the second WSNA core challenge with a stained glass window-inspired nail presentation, through which the colour symbolism reflected meanings within the Shine The Light poem.
The role of advocates & mentors
Beauty Changes Lives advocates spread the word about the organisation, its mission and the resources available. Anyone can become an advocate and donate their voice and platform to pass on the opportunities available. Mentors support the next generation of beauty professionals. They are educators, innovators or accomplished pros who help mentees strengthen and reinforce pride in their career choice. They provide guidance and support as mentees strive to meet their career goals. Meghan adds: “Mentorship provides knowledge that cannot come from a demo or textbook. It delivers unique lessons and passes on knowledge that could only have been gained firsthand through the experiences of those who came before us.” To find out more about Beauty Changes Lives and how to become an advocate or mentor, visit www.beautychangeslives.org /BeautyChangesLives
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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
The
effect Halo VIP, MICHAELA PHILLIPS, demonstrates how to replicate this star-themed style ahead of the Scratch Stars Party on 23 July
ABOUT MICHAELA
Michaela Phillips has worked in the nail industry for over seven years, specialising in nail art, gel polish and builder gel enhancements. She works from her home salon, Gelalicious in Medway, Kent, and has been a Halo VIP since February 2022. “My nail space is very therapeutic,” she comments. “I enjoy expressing myself through nails, as I’ve always loved art.” Michaela works closely with Pure Nails as an in-house nail technician. /Gelalicious8Nails @gelalicious
1
3
2
Step 1 Prep the nails for Halo Gel Polish application. Apply Halo Base Coat and cure, before applying two coats of Halo Gel Polish in Elise, curing between each coat. Step 2 Use the Halo Create Combo Brush: Long Fine Liner with gel polish shade, Folklore, to create a French-style tip. Cure, then apply Halo Non-Wipe Top Coat and cure. Next, buff lightly over the nail with a Halo Elite Buffer to remove shine, and wipe over the nail surface with Pure Nails Gel Wipe.
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Halo Gel Polish in Platinum £5.95 + VAT
Step 3 Paint two stars onto the nails using Halo Gel Polish in Black. A good technique for painting stars is to place a dot onto the nail and drag out the lines lightly from the dot, using a thin nail art brush. Once you are happy with the nail art, cure. Halo Gel Polish in Elise £5.95 + VAT
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Step 4 Apply chrome powder over the star designs and lightly brush away any excess. For this look, I used Halo Create Chrome in #BeEmpowered.
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Step 5 Apply two dots of Halo Gel Polish in Platinum in the centre of each star and cure. Step 6 Apply Halo Non-Wipe Top Coat to all nails and cure.
Halo Gel Polish Non-Wipe Top Coat £5.95 + VAT Halo Chrome in #BeEmpowered £2.49 + VAT Pure Nails Gel Wipe £3.99 + VAT 66 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Halo products are available via www.purenails.co.uk and associated stockists. /purenailsprofessionalnailproducts @purenailsuk
@purenailsuk
@purenailsuk
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
2023
THE ONLY AWARDS FOR THE UK&I NAIL INDUSTRY
MEET THE JUDGES PART 2 B
y the end of this month, we would have crowned 18 Scratch Stars Award winners; techs, educators and salon owners who shine amongst clients and peers. The 11th annual Scratch Stars journey began back in February, when nail industry members across the UK and Ireland submitted an entry form for a category that called to their strengths. A preliminary assessment saw five finalists announced in each category, and a second judging stage determined each winner.
JUDGING CATEGORIES Educator of the Year Mobile Nailist of the Year Social Media Star of the Year Home Nail Salon of the Year Nail & Beauty Salon of the Year Nail Salon of the Year Nail Team of the Year The Nail Business Mentor Award The Shooting Star Award Services to the Nail Industry
NINA TAYLOR
Specialist model, brand consultant & nailcaare expert
Last month, we profiled the esteemed nail pros who lent their expertise to judge the eight technical and artistic categories in a live competition day on 28 June. This issue, we unveil the notable industry names who have assessed two business categories each. They've immersed themselves in mystery shop reports, testimonials, social media channels and more, to score this year's finalists and pinpoint a winner in each category. We'll be unveiling who came out on top at The Scratch Stars Party on 23 July. See you there!
JACQUI O'SULLIVAN Esteemed educator & industry expert @jacqui0s
Jacqui holds a BA(Hons) degree in Education and is involved in judging numerous national and international nail competitions, including Nailympia and WorldSkills, the biggest vocational education and skills excellence event in the world. She has over 25 years’ experience in the nail industry and has worked with a number of awarding bodies in the further education sector. She scooped the Scratch Stars Award for Services to the Nail Industry in 2015.
LEAH DURRANT Salon owner & business coach @leahdurrantsaloncoach
@ninataylorofficial
Nina Taylor is regarded as the most successful hand and body model globally, and her £2million insured assets have appeared in iconic global advertising campaigns. Nina regularly shares her expertise in nailcare and beauty to TV audiences worldwide, and as a brand consultant and beauty writer. 68 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
Leah is a successful hairdresser & salon owner with a head for business, and uses her knowledge, expertise and experience to support salon businesses in achieving their potential. Leah has built two successful salons from the ground up, with a committed team and strong business plan. During the pandemic, Leah trained as a business coach to help salons recover and work towards future growth. Her coaching covers social media, marketing, recruitment, goal setting, business planning, finances and more.
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
MILLIE MILLIEKENDALL KENDALL OBE OBE
NERGISH NERGISHWADIA-AUSTIN WADIA-AUSTIN
Beauty Beautyindustry industrycoach coach&&management managementtrainer, trainer, &&founder founderofofPHAB PHABService ServiceStars Stars
CEO, CEO,British BritishBeauty Beauty Council Council
@milliekendall @milliekendall CEO CEOofofthe theBritish BritishBeauty BeautyCouncil, Council,retail retail maven maven&&brand brandcreator, creator,Millie MillieKendall, Kendall, has hasbeen beeninstrumental instrumentalininthe thesuccess successofof brands brandsincluding includingShu ShuUemura, Uemura,Aveda, Aveda, Tweezerman Tweezermanand andRuby Ruby&&Millie. Millie.Having Having worked workedwith withleading leadingUK UKretailers, retailers,Millie Millie has hasbeen beencreating creatingand andmarketing marketingbeauty beauty brands brandsfor for30 30years. years.She Shewas wasawarded awardedan an MBE MBEinin2007 2007for forservices servicestotothe thecosmetic cosmetic industry, industry,and andan anOBE OBEinin2022 2022for forservices services beautyindustry. industry.Millie Milliewas was totothe thehair hairand andbeauty presented presentedwith withthe theScratch ScratchStars StarsNail Nail Sector SectorVisionary VisionaryAward Award2022. 2022.
MARIE MARIEYEXLEY YEXLEY Hall HallofofFame Fame guest guestjudge judge
@beautyatthebay @beautyatthebay Marie Mariecompleted completedan anNVQ NVQLevel Level33 beauty beautyqualification qualificationinin2001, 2001,and andowns ownsaa stunning stunningsalon salonpremises premisesininColchester, Colchester, Essex, Essex,named namedBeauty BeautyAt AtThe TheBay. Bay.The The salon salonoffers offersaawide widespectrum spectrumofofnail nailand and beauty beautytreatments, treatments,and andowing owingtotoMarie's Marie's savvy savvyand andbusiness businessknowledge, knowledge,has has scooped scoopedthree threeScratch ScratchStars StarsAwards Awardsfor for Nail Nail&&Beauty BeautySalon Salonofofthe theYear, Year,placing placing ititininthe theHall HallofofFame Famefor forthis thiscategory. category.
@nergishwadiaaustin @nergishwadiaaustin @phabservicestars @phabservicestars Nergish Nergishisisan anexpert expertininincreasing increasingservice serviceand andretail retailperformance, performance, offering offeringtailor-made tailor-madeonline onlineand andin-person in-personcourses coursesfor forleaders, leaders, managers managersand andsalon salonprofessionals professionalswho whowant wanttotoimprove improve operations operationsand andboost boostrevenue. revenue.She Shehas hasan anexceptional exceptionalability abilitytoto identify identifybusiness businessgaps, gaps,with withaano-nonsense no-nonsenseapproach approachtotoraising raising salon salonand andspa spaprofitability. profitability.Nergish Nergishisisthe thefounder founderofofPHAB PHABService Service benchmarkingsystem systemfor forthe the Stars, Stars,the theonly onlyperformance-based performance-basedbenchmarking hair hairand andbeauty beautyindustry. industry.She's She'saawell-respected well-respectedbusiness businesstraining training guru, guru,known knownfor forher herhigh highlevel levelofofexpertise expertiseand andproven provenresults. results.
MARIAN MARIANNEWMAN NEWMANBEM BEM Industry Industryaficionado, aficionado,session session nails nailsexpert expert&&chair chairofofThe TheFNP FNP @mariannewman @mariannewman
@the_fnp_ @the_fnp_ Marian Marianisisaanail nailveteran veteranofof30+ 30+years yearsand andhas hasworked workedininalmost almost every everyarea areaofofthe theindustry, industry,from fromrunning runningaasalon salontotoworking workingas asaa consultant consultantfor fornail nailbrands. brands.She Shehas hasbeen beeninvolved involvedininthe the development developmentofofvocational vocationalstandards standardsand andisisrenowned renownedfor forher her fashion-forward fashion-forwardsession sessionwork, work,boasting boastingover over70 70British BritishVogue Vogue covers. covers.As Aschair chair&&co-founder co-founderofofThe TheFederation FederationofofNail Nail nailindustry industry Professionals, Professionals,Marian Marianworks workstotoproject projectthe thevoices voicesofofnail members membersat athigher higherlevels. levels.Author Authorofofseven seventextbooks, textbooks,including including The TheComplete CompleteNail NailTechnician, Technician,she shealso alsoserves servestotoinform informvia viaNail Nail Knowledge, Knowledge,an anonline onlineeducation educationplatform. platform.Marian Marianwas wasawarded awarded the theScratch ScratchStar Starfor forServices Servicestotothe theNail NailIndustry Industryinin2013 2013and and Lifetime LifetimeAchievement AchievementAward Awardinin2021. 2021.She Sheattained attainedthe theBritish British Empire EmpireMedal Medalfor forServices Servicestotothe theindustry industryduring duringCovid-19. Covid-19.
KATIE KATIEGODFREY GODFREY Salon Salonowner, owner,coach, coach,educator educator&&podcaster podcaster @kg_katiegodfrey @kg_katiegodfrey
RICHARD RICHARD LAMBERT LAMBERT Chief Chiefexecutive, executive,NHBF NHBF @nhbfsocial @nhbfsocial
Katie Katieisisfounder founderofofthe theKG KGbrand brandand andowns ownsaabeauty beautysalon, salon,training training academy, academy,product productrange rangeand andcoaching coachingbusiness. business.The Thecertified certified business businessstrategist, strategist,NLP NLPpractitioner practitioner&&life lifecoach coachisispassionate passionate about abouthelping helpingbeauty beautybusinesses businessestotomake makemore moremoney, money,and andhas has won wonover over18 18awards awardstotodate. date.Katie Katiehas haspublished publishedtwo twobooks booksand and founded foundedThe TheLife LifeOf OfKG KGpodcast. podcast.
IAN IANARCHBOLD ARCHBOLD
Olympia OlympiaBeauty Beautyshow showdirector director @ian_archbold @ian_archbold @olympiabeautyuk @olympiabeautyuk
Ian Ianorganises organisesand andadministers administersthe theOlympia OlympiaBeauty Beautytrade tradeexpo, expo, which whichhe heestablished establishedwith withhis hisbusiness businesspartner partnerinin2005. 2005.He Hehas has worked workedininthe thesector sectorfor forover over20 20years, years,striking strikingup uplong-term long-term relationships relationshipswith withbrands brandsand andindustry industrypersonnel personnelininhis hisroles rolesacross across sales salesand andas asdirector directorofofOlympia OlympiaBeauty. Beauty.He Hespearheads spearheads partnerships partnershipsand andboasts boastsaabig bigbook bookofofglobal globalindustry industrycontacts. contacts.
Richard RichardLambert Lambertisischief chiefexecutive executiveofofthe the Federation National NationalHair Hairand andBeauty BeautyFederation (NHBF). (NHBF).He Heand andthe theNHBF NHBFteam teamare are instrumental instrumentalininsupporting supportinghair hairand and beauty beautyprofessionals professionalswith withpolicy policynotes, notes, employment employmentadvice adviceand andpractical practical resources resourcestotoaid aidtheir theirbusinesses. businesses.Richard Richard began beganhis hiscareer careeras asaaparliamentary parliamentarycivil civil servant servantininthe theHouse HouseofofCommons, Commons,where where he heworked workedon onSelect SelectCommittees, Committees, legislative legislativeprocesses processesand and inter-parliamentary inter-parliamentaryaffairs affairsfor for10 10years, years, before beforemoving movinginto intotrade tradeassociations. associations. InIn2019, 2019,Richard Richardreceived receivedthe theTrade Trade Association AssociationForum’s Forum’sBest BestPractice PracticeAward Award for forOutstanding OutstandingContribution Contributionand andthe the Association AssociationExcellence ExcellenceSilver SilverAward Awardfor for >> Best BestLeadership. Leadership. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 69
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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
FAYE FINARO
Founder, SOS Beauty @sosbeauty_mobileapp
LEIGHTON DENNY MBE Award-winning nail expert & brand founder @leighton_denny @leightondennynails
Faye Finaro is the founder of SOS Beauty, an app that helps beauty businesses engage with new clients. The app launched in 2022 and is used by over 1,400 UK hair, beauty and aesthetics businesses. Prior to launching SOS Beauty, Faye enjoyed a 16-year career in further education, supporting colleges and private training providers with sales and marketing needs. She is also a published international model.
METTA FRANCIS Multi award-winning mobile nail pro @nailsbymets Metta has been in the nail industry for 12 years, and achieved accolades including BABTAC Nail Technician of the Year 2022 and Scratch Stars Natural Nail Specialist of the Year 2022. She is the founder of Londonbased mobile nail company, Nails by Mets, and is in the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame owing to three wins in the Mobile Nailist of the Year category. Metta provides mobile and session services for private clients and pop-up nail bars, and has a passion for natural nailcare.
ALEX FOX Nailympia Competitions director & editor-at-large @alexfoxlife_ Alex Fox has been a journalist since 1993 and worked on the first UK trade nail magazine, Nails Plus, in 1998. Five years later, she co-founded Scratch magazine and went on to launch Scratch Middle East in May 2014, for the United Arab Emirates market. In August 2021, Alex retired from her role as editor-in-chief at Scratch to focus on and administer the brand's sister organisation; Nailympia Competitions, which currently boasts competitions in four locations across the USA, as well as London, Germany, Mexico and Brazil. A passionate industry individual, Alex produces content for GlossaryLive and hosts education event, Nail Safari, annually. She has a talent for inspiring techs to explore their skills and creatively shape the changing industry. 70 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
After opening his first salon in Bradford in 1993, Leighton Denny moved to London to open a salon in Harrods and pursue his dream of becoming a nail and beauty expert & product innovator. He has achieved over 70 accolades, including a Nail Technician of the Year title four times. For decades, Leighton worked on celebrities, photo shoots and at high-profile events. In 2005, he launched his own range, Leighton Denny Expert Nails. Leighton became the first nail expert to be awarded an MBE for services to the nail and beauty industry in 2019.
HAZEL DIXON
Multi award-winning nail pro, educator & brand owner @hazeldixon @hdpronails Hazel has been a nail artist for over 18 years and has extensive experience in all aspects of nail treatments, with a particular passion for nail art designs. She has won over 100 competition awards, including the Scratch Stars Services to the Nail Industry title 2022. She is in the Scratch Stars Hall of Fame for her three consecutive wins in the Mixed Media Artist of the Year and Nail Stylist of the Year categories, and in the Nail Team of the Year category with the HD Pro Nails education team. Hazel is an international independent educator, consultant, salon and training academy owner & official UK Akzentz distributor. She writes all her own course material and launched her own brand of products, HD Pro Nail Systems, in 2018.
SUE DAVIES
Nail industry veteran & educator @_sue_davies @nabuno_uk Sue is a nail and beauty industry veteran and has been in the sector since 2002, having worked as a mobile therapist, home salon, freelancer & owner of an award-winning salon. She has been an educator, competition director, judge & advocate for industry professional standards. Sue now shares her experience on her podcast and online platform, Inspiring Salon Professionals, and is the co-creator of Nabuno, a platform to promote and host quality industry education.
RYAN POWER Co-founder of Salonology @itsryanpower
Ryan Power is a salon mentor, author & speaker. He and wife, Hollie, owned a successful day spa and salon for over a decade, before selling it to concentrate on their coaching brand, Salonology, through which they mentor over 450 salon owners and help them create their dream businesses. Ryan has recently written his second book; The Successful Salon Marketing System.
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
SEAN SEANO'SULLIVAN O'SULLIVAN
ALICIA ALICIAHUMPHRIES HUMPHRIES
@sean_patrick_o @sean_patrick_o
@pinkfox_salonsocials @pinkfox_salonsocials
Founder, Founder,Pink PinkFox FoxSalon Salon Socials Socials
Nail Nailcompetition competitionexpert expert &&educator educator
Sean Seanhas hasover over25 25years' years'experience experienceininthe thenail nailindustry, industry,with with teaching teachingand andmotivational motivationalexpertise. expertise.He Heholds holdsqualifications qualificationsininall all aspects aspectsofofnailcare nailcareand andhas hasaawealth wealthofofexperience experienceininthe thedelivery delivery ofoftraining trainingand andassessments assessmentsininnail nailtechnology. technology.Sean Seanhas hasbeen been involved involvedininmanaging managingand andjudging judgingnational nationaland andinternational internationalnail nail competitions, competitions,and andisisthe thelead leadnail nailjudge judgefor forWorldSkills WorldSkillsUK. UK.He Hehas has awardingbodies, bodies,manufacturers manufacturersand and collaborated collaboratedwith withawarding distributors, distributors,and andworked workedwithin withinfurther furthereducation. education.
With Withexpert expertknowledge knowledgeininFacebook, Facebook, Instagram Instagramand andbusiness businesssupport, support,Alicia Aliciaisis passionate passionateabout aboutsupporting supportingthe thegrowth growthofof businesses. businesses.After Afterseeing seeinghow howthe thepandemic pandemic affected affectedsalons, salons,she shechanged changedthe thedirection directionofof her herbusiness businesstotohelp helpthose thosemost mostimpacted. impacted. Alicia Aliciasupports supportssalon salonowners ownersand andtherapists therapists who whowish wishtotogrow growtheir theirsocial socialmedia mediafollowing. following.
LUCY LUCYRADBOURNE RADBOURNE
LESLEY LESLEYBLAIR BLAIRMBE MBE
Junior Juniorbusiness businessexecutive executiveat at Associated AssociatedBeauty BeautyTherapists Therapists
BABTAC BABTACCEO CEO&&chair, chair,&&Beauty BeautyBacked Backedtrustee trustee @lesleyiblair @lesleyiblair
@abtinsurance @abtinsurance
@babtac @babtac Lesley Lesleybecame becamechair chairatatBABTAC BABTAC&&CIBTAC CIBTACininJanuary January2018, 2018,after after20 20 years yearsas asaaCIBTAC CIBTACexaminer. examiner.Her Hermission missionisistotoensure ensurethat thatthe theindustry industry continually continuallyraises raisesitsitslevel levelofofprofessionalism, professionalism,while whilechampioning championingfit-forfit-forpurpose purposequalifications. qualifications.She Sheholds holdsteaching teachingand andassessor assessorqualifications, qualifications, isisaaCIBTAC CIBTACexaminer examinerand andhas hasworked workedtirelessly tirelesslytotoensure ensurethe thevalues values fromleading leading and andobjectives objectivesofofBABTAC BABTACand andCIBTAC CIBTACare aremaintained; maintained;from the thecall callfor forself-regulation self-regulationininthe theUK UKtotoensuring ensuringstudents studentsrecognise recognisethe the importance importanceofofworld-class world-classqualifications. qualifications.She Shepromotes promotesresponsible responsible therapists therapistsand andbusinesses businessesthrough throughinitiatives initiativessuch suchas asT.I.M.E. T.I.M.E.and andwas was awarded awardedan anMBE MBEinin2022 2022for forher herindustry industryservice. service.
Lucy LucyRadbourne Radbournebegan beganher herjourney journeywith with Associated AssociatedBeauty BeautyTherapists Therapists(ABT (ABTInsurance) Insurance)as as aamembership membershipadministrator. administrator.She Shefound foundherself herself leaning leaningtowards towardsthe theABT ABTaccreditation accreditationteam, team, before beforepermanently permanentlytaking takingon onaarole roletotosupport support brands brandsand andcompanies companieswith withtheir theirapplications. applications. AAqualified qualifiedbeauty beautytherapist, therapist,Lucy LucyisisABT's ABT's student studentambassador ambassadorfor forthe theUK UKand andIreland, Ireland,and and liaises liaiseswith withtutors tutorsprior priortotothe theannual annualABT ABTStudent Student Tour, Tour,which whichdetails detailsthe theimportance importanceofofinsurance. insurance.
ELISE ELISESCHOLESSCHOLESPILKINGTON PILKINGTON
CHARISSE CHARISSEKENION KENION Beauty Beautyjournalist journalist&&podcast podcasthost host
Veteran Veterannail nailtechnician technician &&natural naturalnail nailspecialist specialist
@charisse_kenion @charisse_kenion
Charisse CharisseKenion Kenionisisaabeauty beautyjournalist journalist&&photographer photographerwith withover over 15 15years' years'experience. experience.She Shebegan beganher hercareer careerworking workingfor fordaily daily newspapers newspapersand andwomen’s women’smagazines, magazines,before beforemoving movinginto into in-house in-housepublishing. publishing.Her Herlove lovefor forbeauty beautyand andattention attentiontotodetail detail has hasled ledtotoher herhosting hostingonline onlineevents eventsininbeauty beautyand andthe thearts. arts. Charisse Charisseisisthe thefounder founder&&host hostofofthe theBeautyMe BeautyMePodcast, Podcast,and andhas has aa'beauty 'beautybreakdowns' breakdowns'series serieson onTikTok. TikTok.
@espnailtech @espnailtech Elise Elisehas hasbeen beenaanail nailtech techfor forover over20 20years years forspecialising specialisingininnatural natural and andisisknown knownfor nailcare. nailcare.AAregular regularat atnail nailcompetitions competitionssince since the theage ageofof17, 17,Elise Eliseisisaasix-times six-timesScratch ScratchStar Star Award Awardwinner winnerand andboasts boastsmultiple multipleindustry industry titles. titles.She Sheworks worksfrom fromher herStaffordshire Staffordshirehome home salon salonwith withaasmall, small,loyal loyalclientele. clientele.
Afterstudying studyingbusiness businessinformation informationat atGlasgow GlasgowCollege Collegeofof JACQUELINE JACQUELINEKENNEDY KENNEDY After Business Businessdevelopment developmentofficer officer at atCIDESCO CIDESCOInternational International @cidesco_international @cidesco_international
Commerce, Commerce,Jacqueline Jacquelinemoved movedtotosouthern southernGermany Germanyand and trained trainedwith withCIDESCO. CIDESCO.Passionate Passionateabout aboutimproving improvingand andsharing sharing her herknowledge, knowledge,she shetaught taughtininCIDESCO CIDESCOInternational Internationalschools schoolsfor for over over24 24years. years.She Sheisisan aninternational internationalexaminer examinerand andprides pridesherself herself on oncommitment, commitment,passion passionand andenthusiasm. enthusiasm.
www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars www.scratchmagazine.co.uk/scratchstars
#ScratchStars #ScratchStars
The TheScratch ScratchStars StarsAwards Awards2023 2023isissponsored sponsoredby: by:
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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
THE
mobile CLUB
Award-winning mobile nailist, CLARE WOODCOCK, shares top tips for making a success out of working on the move…
2023 FINALIST
ABOUT CLARE WOODCOCK
Clare Woodcock is founder of The Nail Club, a mobile beauty business based in Sunbury upon Thames, Surrey. She began her nail industry journey in 2017, following 20 years in the music and entertainment sector as a senior PR manager and event producer. Clare trained with Gelish and has since expanded her nail and beauty knowledge with Bio Sculpture, Nouveau Lashes and HD Brows. She was awarded gold at the British Hair & Beauty Awards 2021 for Mobile Therapist of the Year, and scooped the Scratch Stars Mobile Nailist of the Year title in 2022. Clare is a finalist in the same category for 2023, and also works as director of communications for the Federation of Nail Professionals (FNP).
Safety matters for mobile techs
I
t can be daunting going to strangers’ homes, hotels or offices as a mobile tech. You or your loved ones may have concerns about your safety, so ensure you have conducted a proper risk assessment based on your values and what suits your business model.
My background in music PR involved a lot of networking, therefore I find it relatively easy to talk to people. I spent a lot of time going to gigs, clubs and festivals, so was streetwise, confident and used to thinking about my safety. But when I started my nail business six years ago, I found myself feeling uneasy with some bookings. After a few dodgy appointments, which I navigated unharmed, I put more checks in place. Here are some pointers to help you stay safe and avoid any uneasy feelings:
Choose your locations
Decide which areas you feel comfortable travelling to. You are likely to feel safer in places you are familiar with. If you work in the evening, are you choosing locations where you can park on clients’ driveways? If you travel via public transport, can you safely get to appointments from stations or stops? It’s wise to input clients’ addresses into Google Maps, so you can familiarise yourself with each area before accepting the booking.
Use a booking system
With a booking system, clients must enter their details to secure the booking, and this can include their card details with payment of a deposit. If a client was planning anything untoward, it is unlikely that they’d give information to a system that holds their Use code details and money.
THENAILCLUB for 50% off your first three months of Timely (new customers only) at www.gettimely.com
I use Timely, as I can customise and automate consultation forms to source the information needed for my insurance and to get to know clients.
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Chat with clients
Have a conversation with new clients at the time of booking, to understand their needs and get to know them better. You can get a sense of a person by talking to them, and it alleviates worries about visiting a stranger.
Share your location
Always let someone know where you are. My partner is an admin on my Timely system, which means he can view my diary. He doesn’t see client details: all he sees is their name, address, the time and length of their appointment. In addition, you can set up a shared calendar. I also share my location through Apple’s Find My Friends feature.
Prepare & assess
Have backup plans in place, in case you get caught off-guard, such as: • Conducting a risk assessment before entering unknown places. Trust your instincts – if you feel uncomfortable or unsure, make an excuse and leave. • Making a note of how the door opens when entering a location, so that you can leave quickly, if necessary. • Considering exit strategies to use if you feel uncomfortable or threatened. • Setting up an emergency alarm on your phone, such as Emergency SOS on iPhone or via an app designed for solo workers. The Suzy Lamplugh Trust (www.suzylamplugh.org) is a great resource for information about this.
Advertise on your car
If you drive to appointments, consider having your logo and website emblazoned on your car. This gives you the security of knowing that if something were to happen, it’s clear that your business is in the area. Until next month,
Clare
www.thenailclub.uk /thenailclublondon @thenailclublondon
SALONDESIGN
Nail space styling 101 Get set to wow with your workspace design, as REBECCA HITCHON & CHLOE RANDALL round up expert advice, inspirational spaces & product picks
From best utilising your space to decking it out with stylish furniture and on-trend décor, workplace design can be a minefield. That’s why we’ve sourced product inspiration and guidance from design experts and esteemed pros, to help you transform your nail space – whatever its size and location – into the functional, aesthetically pleasing haven you envision for you and your clients.
4 key design considerations 1. Utilise your space
Matthew Lutos
“The most important issue beauty professionals need to consider is how to maximise their workspace, finding a balance between generating maximum income potential in terms of treatment areas, and ensuring the space isn’t cramped,” notes Matthew Lutos, owner of salon design & building company, Vision Salons.
2. Determine a budget
It’s vital to be clear on your budget from the get-go, as this is what determines the guidelines for your design. “You don’t always need to spend a lot to create the finish you desire: get creative by upcycling furniture, for example,” shares Sophie Williams, owner Sophie Williams of multi award-winning Sweetcheeks salons and academies in Telford and Shrewsbury. “I cut costs by doing a lot of the painting myself and creating flower and sequin walls, allowing me to invest more money in quality products and equipment for treatments,” she continues. However, Matthew Lutos adds that there are some areas where you shouldn’t cut costs.
“The biggest mistake I’ve seen salons make is to buy cheap furniture, which becomes uncomfortable and diminishes in appearance soon after purchase, or to scrimp on equipment that then becomes faulty.”
3. Be equipped
Sophie Williams explains that you must prioritise amenities in your design – including water access, electrical sockets for appliances (with all wires hidden) and a fire exit. “Also consider if the space is equipped to treat all of your clients,” she says. “For example, can it be accessed by those with mobility issues?”
4. Pick a theme
A theme doesn’t have to mean opting for a bold colour scheme or décor: it can involve choosing minimalist styling, but you must prioritise the intended ambience you wish to create. “The best way to decide on a theme is to think about yourself as a client: what would you like to see and how do you want to feel?” asks Sophie Williams, who used a pink, sparkly theme when designing Sweetcheeks’ premises to showcase her personality and make clients feel like ‘princesses’. “It’s about the overall experience, as clients are your biggest advertisement.”
“A theme doesn’t have to mean opting for a bold colour scheme or décor: it can involve choosing minimalist styling, but you must prioritise the intended ambience you wish to create.” 74 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
SALONDESIGN
An REM spokesperson notes how using a design team can help your space “reflect the image, reputation and personality of your business, to enhance and ultimately grow it.” Through the company’s salon design service, REM arranges a site visit to discuss a salon’s needs and aesthetic vision, before detailed 2D floorplans and 3D visual images are drawn up to finalise the design prior to work commencing. The company offers another level of personalisation through bespoke furniture design, with 2D imagery created to bring ideas to life. www.rem.co.uk
If you are a mobile nail tech, you may be wondering how the topic of workplace design relates to you. While you don’t have to consider permanent furniture or designing four walls of a premises, it’s important to ascertain how your setup can look sleek and uniform, to best represent your business. When working in other people’s homes, having an organised setup is imperative to establishing professional boundaries, and sets the tone for professional appointments.
Instagram.com/remuklimited
Product spotlight
The mobile setup of Essex-based pro, Sophie Bamsey of Olive Tree Beauty.
Instagram.com/olive.tree.beauty
MOBILE MOVES
Should I employ a design team?
Transporting your kit is not an easy task, as it can be tough to balance choice for clients and practicality for you. Arriving with your kit stored in an organised way helps you provide a smooth client experience. The Gelish & All That Jazz Trolley Bag £49.99 + VAT www.gsgroupuk.com This bag features a collapsible trolley, four layers of detachable bags to hold up to 160 Gelish bottles and a large bag for other kit.
“No matter how certain a salon owner is about the design of their space, an outside team can provide perspective to finesse it, while understanding the need for cost efficiency,” reveals Matthew Lutos. “At Vision Salons, putting together a design that really excites the client is our favourite part of the journey. We visit the site for free, as this is a chance to exchange ideas and evaluate opportunities and potential problems. A floor plan is measured and signed off, before 3D visuals are created and a quote to build is provided.” www.salondesignandbuild.com
Branding
A 3D salon design visual by Vision Salons.
“A design team can guide a salon owner through the entire transformation process, ensuring that the space reflects their vision while prioritising functionality and aesthetics,” adds Mike Cooper, owner & founder of salon design & building company, Inspiring Salons Ltd. Key Mike Cooper considerations for the company are budget, basic requirements for treatments, layout and functionality. “We think about the client flow, starting with their entrance at the reception and following their journey through the salon, and our team specialises in storage allowing the client to move freely,” he shares. The company also offers customdesigned furniture. www.inspiringsalons.co.uk
In a high street nail space, branding is used as a way for passers-by to recognise a business – but don’t let being mobile deter you from branding, for example on your uniform or towels. Not only is it professional, but it looks great on social media and in those all-important client nailfies.
Majestic Towels Promotional Towels £POA www.majestictowels.co.uk
Light up
Daylight Company Foldi Go £89.99 inc VAT www.daylightcompany.com
Adequate lighting is essential to perform a good nail service. Just because you are mobile and don’t have a permanent setup, it doesn’t mean you have to compromise. Invest in a light that is not only bright enough, but easily transportable and aesthetically pleasing for your setup. SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 75
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SALONDESIGN
SMALL & SWEET For small nail spaces, the budget for décor can often be limited and the lack of space to work with can be overwhelming. So how do you strike a balance between creating a functional yet aesthetically pleasing design? Check out top tips on how to refurbish a space within your budget…
Home salon pointers
TOP TIPS
Laura Boucher-Walker, owner of Lincoln space, BW Beauty, shares home salon design tips...
• Find a home/salon balance You need a clear demarcation between your home space and the salon, not only so you can switch off from work, but so your job doesn’t intrude on the privacy of those you live with. Likewise, you want to create as much privacy for your clients as possible, allowing them to relax.
Laura Boucher-Walker
• Prioritise easy access Space is often one of the biggest issues in home salons, so ensure your setup allows for easy access to the things you need for treatments. You don’t want to make clients move mid-treatment, adjust your setup between services, or enter your home space. This is why I had a hand basin installed for salon use. • Reflect you Your home salon is a reflection of you and is where you spend the majority of each day. Make sure it showcases your personality and love for your work, allowing you and your clients to enjoy time in the space.
Habitat Rectangular Brushed Gold Wall Mirror £50 inc VAT www.habitat.co.uk
BW Beauty, Lincoln
3 WAYS TO SPRUCE UP A SMALL SPACE 1. Feature wall
Consider creating a small feature wall through the use of wallpaper or artwork. Invest in something that you and your clients will love to see each time you’re in the salon space. Good Vibes Only Neon Sign £100 inc VAT www.joebrowns.co.uk Opulent Metallic Planters £24.99 inc VAT www.ivylinegb.co.uk
2. Gorgeous greenery
A cost-effective method to dress your space is with houseplants or artificial greenery. A way to bring the outside into the salon, seeing and being around plants can evoke feelings of calm and serenity.
3. Storage solutions
Take time to think about how to store your products and tools in a way that is functional but also pleasing to the eye. To save on space, optimise any vertical room by using wall-mounted storage. Wall hooks are inexpensive and used creatively, can not only solve your storage issues, but appear part of the décor. “Look at multifunctional furniture pieces that can serve a multitude of purposes,” advises Mike Cooper. “Talk to salon furniture specialists, too, to discuss bespoke creations.”
Beauty HQ, Southport
Design deception
“If you’re aiming to make a small space appear bigger, adding mirrors will create this illusion, as will keeping your colour scheme light with soft tones,” recommends Sophie Williams. Hannah Quilliam
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A feature wall with a branded neon sign and product display, at Surrey home salon, Nails On Point.
Aston & Fincher Vega Nail Station £750 + VAT www.astonandfincher.co.uk This nail station features two drawers, a cupboard and storage for polish bottles.
EM Fantasy Pedicure Chair from £1179 + VAT www.rem.co.uk The basin section of this pedicure unit can be stored under the seat, allowing the chair to be used for other treatments.
“I keep my products on display, in colour order, so that is clear to clients what brand I use, and what shades are available to them,” says Hannah Quilliam, Glitterbels education ambassador & owner of Beauty HQ, Southport. “Not only is this visually appealing, but it introduces clients to other products they may not have tried before. It also reduces additional appointment time, as you are familiar with where products are for use in services.”
Instagram.com/nailsonpointsurrey
According to the Scratch Nail Industry Survey 2022, 43.8% of nail pros work from home. “Home salons are destination salons that do not require a shop front appearance to attract passing trade – this is an advantage for those on a small budget,” comments Mike Cooper.
SALONDESIGN
SIZEABLE SPACES While larger nail spaces afford more design freedom in terms of room, thought needs to be given to create a positive client journey. Ensure a pleasing flow around the premises by taking inspiration and tips from salon owners with large spaces...
Retail space
Reception & waiting area
This space is key for building client trust, as it showcases the professionalism of your business from the minute clients walk through the door. Keep them excited about their nail service while they wait, with Instagrammable interiors and furniture items.
It’s said that a customer needs to see a product at least seven times before they commit to buying it, therefore keep retail products in clients’ eyelines and minds with glamorous and eye-catching retail displays. Consider changing your display up depending on seasonal occasions.
Concept Furniture Design Zoe Tall Waiting Seat £650 + VAT www.salonfurniture.co.uk
DazzleYourEyes Slim Grace Gold Reception Desk £1400 inc VAT www.dazzleyoureyes.co.uk
Glitterbels Deluxe Reception Desk £500 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
DazzleYourEyes Two Seater Pedicure Station £3100 inc VAT www.dazzleyoureyes.co.uk
REM Glam Lux Retail Unit from around £800 + VAT www.rem.co.uk
Concept Furniture Design Sienna Retail Display £499 + VAT www.salonfurniture.co.uk
Treatment zones
With a larger salon space comes the opportunity to welcome more clients, so consider furniture designed to accommodate this.
Glitterbels Princess Double Nail Desk from £650 inc VAT www.glitterbels.com
A feature wall at Sweetcheeks, Shrewsbury, featuring a handmade flower and glitter wall and neon signage.
TOP TIP
Design deception
Cult Dana Modern Glass Pendant Light (Clear) £39 inc VAT www.cultfurniture.com
“To make a large salon space appear smaller and more intimate, consider installing drop ceiling lighting, large décor pieces or feature walls to fill empty space,” advises Sophie Williams.
Even though it can be tempting to fill the extra room that a larger salon space affords, Chantal Chambers, owner of Scratch Nail & Beauty Salon, West Midlands, a Scratch Stars Awards Nail Salon of the Year finalist, advises against this. “I think it’s always best to keep free space when designing your workspace – you don’t want you, your clients or staff to feel cramped,” she says. “You also want the salon to flow. For example, I considered adding two nail desks to Scratch Nail & Beauty Salon, but I feel it would make clients’ experiences too loud and not provide the VIP experience I strive to offer, or fit with the clean and chic appearance of the salon.” SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK 77
SALONSPOTLIGHTS
Through the
Keyhole
Take a peek inside salon setups across the UK as Scratch unlocks each door…
The Beauty Hut
Location: Thetford, Norfolk
Sisters, Martina and Yvette Parent, opened the doors to The Beauty Hut in July 2021, in memory of their mother, Linda, who passed away in June 2020 from coronavirus. “The business means everything to us, and we try our hardest to make it successful for our mum,” the duo shares. “Opening in her memory and knowing how proud she would have been drives us forward.” With the support of their father, the sisters commenced their training in 2020, qualifying in services including builder gel, gel polish, waxing, lashes, brows, facials and dermaplaning, with plans to continue expanding their treatment menu. The most popular treatments in the salon are builder gel and lash extension services. “We love to meet new clients, and always look forward to seeing our regulars,” they smile. “Our doors are open to all. The Beauty Hut is a unique place for us, because we worked hard to build up our business and get where we are today.” The sweet space features a striking chequered floor with white furniture and pastel pink accents. “The beauty room is tucked away from any bustling roads and accommodates up to two clients at a time, so it’s nice and peaceful for those that seek a relaxing treatment,” the pair notes. The beauty hut
@_the_beauty_hut_
Imagine Nails & Beauty Location: Meols, Wirral
Lockdown encouraged long-time beauty fanatic, Charlotte Holden, to take a leap and pursue her dream job in the beauty industry. “I think that time helped many people to realise that you have to do something that makes your heart smile,” she says. After completing nail training with Bio Sculpture Gel, Charlotte enlisted the help of her partner to transform their spare bedroom into a nail space. In January 2023, she moved into a bigger room in the house, decorating in white, soft grey and delicate pink, with touches of greenery. This move allowed room for a pedicure station.
Do you want to be featured on this page? Scan here to submit your salon or setup
Charlotte offers Express, Luxury and Gel Manis/Pedis, as well as the ‘Nail Biter Recovery Journey’ treatment. “I realised early on that I wanted to focus on natural nail health and help people grow and be proud of their own nails,” she shares. “The Recovery Journey is a personalised plan to help nail biters achieve beautiful nails.” The talented pro’s achievements during her short time in the industry include placing seventh in the North West for Best Nail Salon in the Hair & Beauty Awards, and achieving a spot in Wirral’s Top 10 Nail Technicians in the Wirral Globe Competition, thanks to client nominations. www.imaginenailsandbeauty.co.uk /ImagineNailsandBeautyCH @imaginenailsandbeauty
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Rubber Base
SHOP AT:
www.nailslaundry.co.uk
INTRODUCING
@nails.laundry NailsLaundry
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION
Nailympia ®
COMPETITION
ORLANDO 2023
Art & precision across the Atlantic Scratch’s HELENA BIGGS & Nailympia’s ALEX FOX jetted to the USA to bring the third Nailympia Orlando to life, under the expert eye of The Premiere Show Group
T
he third Nailympia Orlando competition, hosted at the Premiere Orlando beauty expo in Florida on 4-5 June, exceeded all expectations, as competitors flew in from the Caribbean, Europe and across North America to battle for medals across 11 categories. With an arena placed at the front of the show hall and flanked by a wealth of nail companies, Nailympia Orlando attracted attention from spectators and nail experts alike.
NAILYMPIA ORLANDO 2023: THE STATS
• 60 competitors from nine countries • 265 competition seats • 11 competition categories • 18 industryleading judges
Since the world opened up for travelling, Nailympia has seen unprecedented growth: in London last October, Mexico City in December, and Germany in April of this year. Judges and organisers were delighted to see so many competitors in Orlando, giving the nail industry hope for a brighter future, with motivation, determination and joy the name of the nail game. “This third Nailympia in Orlando was nothing short of sensational,” enthuses Alex Fox, global director of Nailympia Competitions. “The last few years have been challenging for everyone, so it was heartwarming and exciting to see so many nail professionals travelling from across the globe to participate in the live arena. The two weeks leading up to the event saw a rush of registrations, and a last-minute meeting with the operations team was held in order to double the floor space, with an extra section added two days beforehand, in order to cater for all the competitors. “The Nailympia experience is like no other in the nail industry, and serves to bring pros together for a collective nail adventure while stretching skills and creativity. Nailympia Orlando did all this and more in abundance.”
“Participation in the Nailympia competitions at Premiere Orlando far exceeded expectations, and our industry should take pride in the quality of the work created. Congratulations to Alex Fox and the Nailympia team for engaging so many competitors, and thanks to Premiere, the show organiser, for positioning this event in a prominent location in the exhibition hall.” Jaime Schrabeck, Ph.D., Precision Nails, USA
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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION TOP INDIVIDUAL SCORER Katarzyna Kruszynska – Ireland – 759 points
WINNER OF WINNERS DIVISION 1 Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba DIVISION 2 Katie Nguyen – USA DIVISION 3 Deborah Cocco – Italy
ART WINNER OF WINNERS
THE EXPERT JUDGES
Head judge – Alisha Rimando, Damon Ho, Emese Koppanyi, Gari-Dawn Tingler, Morgan Haile, Michelle Soto, Lauren Wireman, Giselle Caballero, John Hauk, Holly Schippers, Jaime Schrabeck, Jan Arnold, Jenny Bui, Kalista Sims, Lisa Boone, Ami Mcclure, Traci Dungan & Kristina Rozdovan.
DIVISION 1 Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 Ana Vega – USA DIVISION 3 Katarzyna Kruszynska – Ireland
TOP USA TECH DIVISION 1 Victoria Walsh – USA DIVISION 2 Vuong Ho – USA DIVISION 3 Quang Nguyen – USA
EXTREME POSTER
Flat Art by Livia Hamori – Hungary Stiletto Nails by Deborah Cocco – Italy
DIVISION 1 1st – Angelika Szadkowska – Poland 2nd – Sylwia Kowalek-Szajda – Poland 3rd – Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Katie Nguyen – USA 2nd – Ana Vega – USA 3rd – Samantha Ownby – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Kamila Wojtynka – Poland 2nd – Anna Goronska – Poland 3rd – Lena Kurach Kozlowska – Poland
REALITY NAIL ART
DIVISION 1 1st – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba 2nd – Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Vuong Ho – USA 2nd – Lecah Maloney – Trinidad 3rd – Amanda Sosnowski – Canada DIVISION 3 1st – Joanna Tylkowska-Witas – Poland 2nd – Deborah Cocco – Italy 3rd – Sara Steinbrink – USA
FLAT ART
DIVISION 1 1st – Livia Hamori – Hungary 2nd – Victoria Walsh – USA 3rd – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba DIVISION 2 1st – Loysbell Alfonso – USA 2nd – Amanda Sosnowski – Canada 3rd – Ana Vega – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Bettina Marton – Hungary 2nd – Barbara Újvári – Hungary 3rd – Jesse Bruner – USA
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INDUSTRYCOMPETITION THE JOY OF NAILS
Phoung Nguyen – USA
DIVISION 1 1st – Jessica Masker – USA 2nd – Phuong Nguyen – USA 3rd – Victoria Walsh – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Monika Cornier – USA 2nd – Maria Duran – USA 3rd – Vuong Ho – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Anastasia Totty – USA 2nd – Katarzyna Kruszynska – Ireland 3rd – Deborah Cocco – Italy
RUNWAY NAILS
Jessica Masker – USA
DIVISION 1 1st – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba 2nd – Deyis De Avila – USA 3rd – Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Katie Nguyen – USA 2nd – Maria Isabel Cubano Fontanez – USA 3rd – Monika Cornier – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Amber Mooney – Ireland 2nd – Kelsey McQuay – USA 3rd – Anastasia Totty – USA
INVENT A NAIL SHAPE DIVISION 1 1st – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba 2nd – Anna Sosina – USA 3rd – Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Katie Nguyen – USA 2nd – Jacqueline Elmore – USA 3rd – Ana Vega – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Anastasia Totty – USA 2nd – Alexandra Mehesz – Hungary 3rd – Anna Goronska – Poland
Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba
L&P TIP & OVERLAY DIVISION 1 3rd – Victoria Walsh – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Katie Nguyen – USA 2nd – Ana Vega – USA 3rd – Vuong Ho – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Deborah Cocco – Italy 2nd – Katarzyna Kruszynska – Ireland 3rd – Iuliia Nesterova – USA
Anna Sosina – USA
“I had the most amazing time being part of the judging panel for Nailympia Orlando. I am honoured to be part of a team with such talented professionals and role models, and I am proud of all of the competitors that worked so hard to put their skills to the test. It was definitely not an easy task to judge so many amazing submissions, so thank you for making us judges work so hard and for inspiring us with your incredible talent. “I’ve always thought of competitions as more than medals and trophies. They take you on a journey of improvement and success, regardless of the results. From the moment one decides to enter a competition, there is an investment: in the training and preparation involved to get to the arena, in time, financially and in oneself. Everything counts and that’s what makes this one of the most rewarding experiences a nail professional will ever have.” Giselle Caballero, Ego Beauty, Canada 82 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
INDUSTRYCOMPETITION L&P SCULPTURE
DIVISION 1 1st – Victoria Walsh – USA 2nd – Jessica Masker – USA 3rd – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba DIVISION 2 1st – Tiffany Bui – USA 2nd – Vuong Ho – USA 3rd – Jackson Pham – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Deborah Cocco – Italy 2nd – Lena Kurach Kozlowska – Poland 3rd – Iuliia Nesterova – USA
L&P PERFECT MATCH “From being a floor judge to judging behind the curtain, working with the Nailympia team is such an honour, as it allows you to partake in the moments that showcase the talents of multiple generations, styles and countries. It’s addictive!” Holly Schippers, The FingerNail Fixer, USA Josephine Cruz – USA
DIVISION 1 1st – Victoria Walsh – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Vuong Ho – USA 2nd – Josephine Cruz – USA 3rd – Ana Vega – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Deborah Cocco – Italy 2nd – Magdalena Mysliweic – Poland 3rd – Gabriella Kovács – Hungary
SALON NAILS
DIVISION 1 1st – Jovanca Solognier Hoek – Aruba 2nd – Jessica Masker – USA 3rd – Phoebe Baker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Tiffany Bui – USA 2nd – Jackson Pham – USA 3rd – Maria Duran – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Joanna Tylowska-Witas – Poland 2nd – Lena Kurach Kozlowska – Poland 3rd – Iuliia Nesterova – USA
Phoebe Baker – USA
DATES FOR THE DIARY 1-2 October 2023 Nailympia San Antonio (Texas, USA) – registration now open! 8-9 October 2023 Nailympia Columbus (Ohio, USA) Victoria Walsh – USA
15-16 October 2023 Nailympia London – registration now open! Note: Entry for Nailympia London’s online categories closes 11 August. 25-26 November Nailympia Brazil (Rio, Brazil)
STILETTO NAILS
DIVISION 1 1st – Victoria Walsh – USA 2nd – Jessica Masker – USA DIVISION 2 1st – Katie Nguyen – USA 2nd – Vuong Ho – USA 3rd – Josephine Cruz – USA DIVISION 3 1st – Deborah Cocco – Italy 2nd – Lena Kurach Kozlowska – Poland 3rd – Magdalena Mysliwiec – Poland
Thank you to sponsors, Le Chat Nails, Chisel Nail Art and S3 Spa Equipment & Furniture. CND™ provided a trophy, desk lamps for every nail desk and prizes, and Scratch magazine was in residence as the Nailympia media partner & sister organisation.
For information about entry or sponsorship, email Alex Fox at nailympia@gmail.com
www.nailympia.com
/Nailympia
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Arena & online
SCHEDULE
Fri 11 Aug: Online registration deadline Fri 18 Aug: Online submission deadline Fri 29 Sept: Arena registration deadline Sun 15 & Mon 16 Oct: All live arena categories take place at ExCel London Mon 16 Oct: Awards for all 17 categories at ExCel London
Scan here to find out more
Nails by @andreea_nails | Make-up @makeupby_shoshi With thanks to our Nailympia London partners
15 15--16 16October October2023 2023@ @ExCel ExCel London London
Compete Compete live live in in London London or or from from your your own own nail nail space! space!
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SOCIALMEDIA
tips & tricks
Have you neglected Twitter in favour of Facebook, Instagram or TikTok? CARTER ROGERS explores the benefits of the text-friendly platform for your business While your days may be spent posting on Facebook, sharing nail snaps on Instagram or getting creative on TikTok, you may have forgotten to engage with update-sharing platform, Twitter. The microblogging site allows users to communicate using short messages, called ‘tweets’, and content can be tracked and read at a glance, affording a quick and easy way to communicate with the world. With 350,000 tweets shared every minute and 500 million tweets posted each day, one cannot deny the functionality of Twitter as a useful distributional tool. But benefits aside, if you can’t navigate the social media platform, it’s not of any use to you. The most important thing to note about Twitter is that it’s made up of timelines. Every user has their own timeline that will open on their homepage; this features content posted by accounts they follow, with the most recent posts appearing at the top. There are also timelines generated by lists. Twitter users can select a group of accounts they follow to create a list centered around a specific topic. For example, you could select accounts of your friends and family members and add them to a list, allowing you to easily see the content of your loved ones, or you can follow Twitter lists created by other people.
EFFECTIVE MARKETING Let’s break down marketing steps to support your Twitter business account:
Goals
Without goals, you have no direction for your business marketing. Analyse the competition, such as fellow nail brands or salons, and note what you want to achieve from your tweets. Perhaps you want to entice appointments or raise awareness of your retail products. Once you understand your goals, your content can be directed from there. Posting regularly will keep your brand message at the forefront of your followers’ timelines.
Presentation
Your profile needs to appeal to your audience, and look visually pleasing and professional. Your ‘handle’ is your account name. Keep it obvious and, where possible, identical to your usernames across other platforms. If it’s different to your other social media handles, your existing followers on those platforms may not be able to find you on Twitter. Your bio tells newcomers who you are; you have 160 characters to do that, so pack it with key details about your business, including your location.
Content schedule
How to use Twitter In its most basic form, Twitter can be used as a broadcaster or as a receiver, meaning you can either tweet and share your own content, or receive and enjoy the content that appears on your timeline. To use Twitter, create an account for your business, navigate to the ‘what’s happening’ box, write a tweet of less than 280 characters and post it to share with the world.
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Figuring out what to post, when and how often, is a vital process for your business’ success, and will help you to assess the effectiveness of your content mix. Sticking to the rule of thirds is always recommended; using a third of your posts to promote your brand, a third to create closeness with followers, and a third to utilise informative insights from experts and influencers. Don’t forget to analyse your analytics to make sure your content is being received well.
SOCIALMEDIA
Engagement Having your own voice is vital within the Twitter community, but also consider your audience. Social listening, which is listening to the likes and loathes of your followers, helps you understand their needs and tailor content accordingly. Unlike Instagram, where stories and comments can get lost, Twitter hashtags allow everything related to your business, competitors and relevant topics to be curated in one place of easy access. Once you realise how beneficial hashtags are, you can spread content to your audience on a greater scale to generate engagement. Another feature of Twitter that helps you engage with your audiences is polls. Despite Instagram being largely catered to brand promotions, it is not geared to direct audience engagement, as Twitter is. With polls, you can tease launches and ideas while gathering feedback and opinions from clients. You can also use visuals, which work well if you are teasing a new project. Twitter is scan-friendly; it doesn’t permit lengthy content for those without a subscription, so ensures a fast-paced environment. Adding visuals can generate up to three times more engagement, and incorporating GIFs can increase engagement by 55%.
5 ways to market your business across Twitter 1. Twitter trends
As Twitter is fast-paced, continuing a conversation about something that has passed is not going to be popular amongst your audience. Monitor when particular words, phrases, hashtags or topics gain popularity, as this means they are trending. Align with this to generate the best conversations with your audience.
2. Twitter circle
A Twitter circle is a group you can create by selecting up to 150 accounts. It allows you to tweet exclusively to these accounts, and you can utilise this feature to position your brand in their eyes. Some accounts you could select for your circle are key brands and influencers.
3. Twitter communities
A Twitter community is like a group chat, where you and other accounts with a shared interest can build relationships. You can make communities public or private; by making them private, you will need to approve the joining of new accounts. Communities are handy for forging relations with potential customers.
4. Twitter spaces
Twitter spaces are available on iOS and are live audio chat rooms. Users can host or participate in audio conversation: an ideal way to hold live Q&As or chat with engaged audiences.
5. Twitter lists
Twitter lists allow you to create a group of accounts centred around a specific topic. This is vital to businesses, as you can hone in on the conversation of interest. For example, you could create a list of your competitors in a strategic move.
LANGUAGE TIPS Lifewire.com, a website dedicated to helping people make the most of technology, explains key Twitter terminology: • @ sign: The @ sign tags other Twitter users in your tweet, sending them a public message. Top tip: Tag the brands you use in posts, in the hope that they’ll share your nail work with their audience. • DM: A direct message is a private message that can be sent to one of your followers. DMs cannot be sent if the user does not follow you. • Favourite: You can like tweets for easy access by clicking the heart icon beneath any tweet. • #FF / Follow Friday: Follow Friday is a fun way to suggest who users should follow on Twitter. Top tip: Get involved and entice follows back by suggesting local businesses or complementary brands. • Hashtag: A hashtag is used to categorise tweets. This can help your content appear on a user’s homepage, to reach a wider audience. Top tip: Pinpoint your content with hashtags, for example #nailartlondon, #nailsinkent and #summernails. • Twitter lists: These are a selection of accounts that have been curated into a group. You can create your own or subscribe to others. They can be private (meaning only you can see them) or public. • RT / Retweet: This feature allows you to forward someone else’s tweet onto your followers. • Short code: A five-digit phone number that people use to send/receive tweets by SMS text message. • TBT / Throwback Thursday: This is a popular hashtag that allows people to reminisce about the past.
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SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
MAKING MOVES WITH
o V o n i M Immerse in competition news & nail tales from master nail stylist, MINO VO
Avant-Garde nails in Paris
2023 FINALIST
ABOUT MINO VO Mino Vo is ‘The Avant-Garde Nail Artist’, a multi award-winning nail aficionado with over 60 competition titles under his belt. An international educator, he travels the world teaching nail services and extreme shapes, and has developed a variety of nail tools to support his work and that of fellow nail pros. Mino runs a salon and academy in north London. He is a finalist in the L&P Tech of the Year and Shooting Star categories in the Scratch Stars Awards 2023.
L
ast month, I had the pleasure of teaching in Paris, and my first class was organised by Cecilia Gimenez from Nailartfrance Association. Cecilia spearheads competitions and classes in France, and I first met her when I was a student. On my visit to Paris, it was nostalgic to discover that I was teaching others in the same room where I was once a student!
by Lauryne de Maria. She created a dove that featured airbrush techniques and 3D flowers.
In this first class, I taught free-form techniques, allowing each student to create a unique shape. The purpose of this training was to empower students with knowledge and information, so they were equipped to create shapes for the Nailartfrance competition in September, at which I will be a judge.
I showcased the technique for my new shape, London, and taught competition stiletto nails over four days to two groups. We concentrated on rules for different competitions.
Each student had their own personal style; each very special, but the standout shape was made
Dove nail by Lauryne de Maria, created at the free-form class in Paris. The Nailartfrance team
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My second class was organised by Laetitia Stella, who is the owner of French nail brand, OA Nail System. This course took place on a private campus, and the goal was to prepare the team for the Inja and Nailartfrance competitions. I taught alongside Monika Urantowka, Elisabeta Oiada, Priscilla Gomez and Delphine D.Spoor.
OA Nail Systems was founded in 2013 and offers an amazing range of products. The brand works with nail technicians and instructors with over 10 years’ experience, and collaborates with influential figures. From the beginning, the brand had a goal to develop exclusive and high-end products that are easy to work with.
“The purpose of this training was to empower students with knowledge and information, so they were equipped to create shapes for the Nailartfrance competition.”
SCRATCHCOLUMNIST
The OA Nail Systems team
Nailympia Orlando success This AvantGarde London nail shape was created by Jessie Benard in the OA private class in Paris.
The star student of this class was Jessie Benard, an instructor & store owner for OA Nail Systems, who runs an academy in Hyeres, in the south of France. I met Jessie last year and competed with her in the Nailartfrance arena. I was presented with the Technical Champion award, while Jessie scooped the Art Champion title. This year, Jessie took my class and created such clean, precise nails. She excels in both nail art and structure, and has a pure and kind personality, which makes her stand out even more.
Coming up... I will be travelling to Italy, Sicily and Naples, to teach two groups of nail pros from the Nails Company brand. I have taught at a Nails Company campus in the past, and this time I am teaching the brand’s educators.
Pictured are Katie Nguyen’s winning nails for the Nailympia Orlando Poster category. She chose a military theme, with camouflageinspired colours.
Nail stylist, Katie Nguyen, travelled from the United States to attend a private competition course with me. Katie is an extremely talented artist & educator for Chisel Nail Art, and has attended my Avant-Garde course. A few months ago, she asked me to mentor her for Nailympia Orlando. We worked on refining her skills for the L&P, Stiletto, Poster and Runway Nails categories, and her hard work and dedication led to her winning five first place medals in Division 2 at the third Nailympia Orlando last month.
“Each student had their own personal style; each very special.”
These peacock nails were crafted using my cloisonné technique. The peacock was shaped using gold wires, before I filled the outline with coloured gels.
I created these three nails for the first edition of Nailympia Online, and scooped a first place medal.
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COMPANYSPOTLIGHT
Ring To Remove K
Bolton-based tech & press-on nail artist, KAREN BOYLE of Gel A Licious, shares the tale of her venture into the removable nail realm…
aren Boyle worked full-time in the IT sector for 34 years, and was surprised to discover her passion for nail art when she began painting her own nails during lockdown. “I instantly loved the process of doing nails and was drawn to the artistic elements of the industry. I wondered why I’d never tried it before,” she shares. As a long-time beauty lover, Karen had been a regular visitor to nail salons prior to 2020, but found that once restrictions eased, she wanted to continue doing her own nails. She enrolled on a gel polish course and on completion, eagerly began accepting clients and building close relationships with them. She notes this as her favourite part of her job, stating: “I feel like I’m spending time with friends. I have the best clients, as they trust me not only with their nails, but their secrets,” she smiles. “I love being able to offer them a safe place to chat about their lives without judgement.” With a belief that everyone should be able to enjoy nails, Karen decided to offer luxury yet cost-effective custom press-on nails, which she retails via her website. Her passion for the craft was piqued further when she was approached by a client, armed with a viral TikTok about press-on nail rings. Upon realising that options for nail rings in the UK were imited, with those available at the time featuring high shipping costs, Karen began handmaking nail
BEFORE
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rings to sell alongside the press-on nails on her website. An easily removable alternative to traditional nail enhancements, the nail rings offer a fully customisable and damage-free solution to clients who are unable to commit to an overlay on their natural nails. “It’s a fairly new concept in the UK, and I hope to increase the options for those in communities who are unable to wear enhancements due to prayer restrictions. The nail rings also appeal to those who are unable to wear enhancements full-time,” Karen details. The nail rings are worn around the cuticle area on the finger, with a press-on nail matching the size of the natural nail, attached to the ring using either glue or tabs. Karen creates the nails using soft gel tips and gel polish, with unique design options for colour and nail art available. The rings are made from copper and brass wire, which Karen cuts to size and bends into shape. They are offered in sizes from small to large, in non-tarnish gold and silver colourways. “I would love for the nail rings to be successful, so that more people can join in with the fabulous nail world,” Karen beams. “In the future, I hope to work full-time in nails. Having three streams of clients from salon services, press-on nails and and nail rings would be so fulfilling, and a dream come true.”
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STEP-BY-STEP Step 1 Size the press-on nail to the natural nail. Step 2 Attach a nail tab or glue to the press-on nail. Step 3 Adhere the ring to the press-on nail. Step 4 Place another tab with the plastic coating left on over the top, to secure for stability if required. Step 5 Slip the ring onto the finger, placing it around the cuticle, and tighten. Step 6 Move the ring up and down to secure it, and squeeze to keep the press-on nail tight to the natural nail. Remove when required. www.gelalicious.co.uk @gel_a_licious_by_karen
TECHTALK
Fantasy
Reality to
Award-winning nail pro, Alicia Stockwell, shares her passion for Fantasy nail creations & how her creativity has furthered her career
F
CALLIE ILEY REPORTS
lorida-based creative, Alicia Stockwell, turned to nails as a form of escapism following a difficult relationship. As a child, she loved drawing and painting, and nail styling allowed her to exercise her artistic prowess in a new way.
The waitress turned stay-at-home mum saw a nail career as a chance to provide for her children independently, and enrolled on her first training course in 2014. She has since achieved CND™ Grand Master status entering Nailympia, I did a lot of research into and trained with Charisma Nails in portrait the competition and categories. I merged my painting. The enthusiastic pro decided to clay sculpting skills with product knowledge A fun element of Alicia’s winning enter the competition arena early on in her to create my Fantasy Nails entry, and it was Fantasy Nails design, created industry journey and scooped first place in amazing to feel validation after years of for Nailympia Orlando 2022. her first national competition, which gave her practicing, studying and researching.” the drive to enter Nailympia Orlando 2022. It was there that she achieved a gold medal in the Runway Nails and Fantasy Nail Art Alicia has plans to continue her competition journey, hoping to categories, and silver in Reality Nails. further express her artistic abilities and improve upon her skills. “I love the adrenaline rush that comes with competing: the elation you get “Competing gives me the opportunity and reason to improve upon from achieving something that you didn’t imagine you’d have the my skills, and I find it really motivating,” Alicia explains. “I’ve always strength or courage to do. I love being able to overcome the fear been driven to try harder and be better than yesterday. Prior to of failure and go through with something that scares me.”
A psychedelic neon sun and rainbow, as featured in Alicia’s Nailympia Fantasy Nails creation.
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TECHTALK
TOP TIP
“Before competing, make sure you read the instructions and rules carefully. If you need to clarify any points, ask the organisers.”
Fantasy finesse
Alicia’s passion for Fantasy nail styling stems from its limitless possibilities. “Anything your mind can imagine, your hands can create and bring to life. There are no rules or judgement, which is how art should be,” she says. “The message behind my Fantasy work is to not let dark times cloud your true, vibrant self.” Sculpting using L&P acrylic is Alicia’s go-to technique for her Fantasy creations, and she often uses gel polish and elements from craft stores to add colour and detail to her designs. “When I’m creating Fantasy work for competitions, I consider the theme and write down my thoughts or ideas for the design. I find images online that can assist the creative process and envisage how they tie in with the theme. I start sculpting, piecing the elements together, and once all my figuress are finished, I paint them and place them on the nail to complete the look,” she continues.
Alicia’s Fantasy Nails entry into Nailympia Orlando 2022.
Images show elements of Alicia’s winning Nailympia Fantasy Nails creation.
“I began my Nailympia Orlando 2022 submission by creating the blue caterpillar from Alice in Wonderland and a funky egg creature, which I later decided not to include. It took 30 to 40 days to finish the complete design, including the doll seen on the final piece.” For Fantasy work, Alicia recommends practicing sculpting skills and familiarising yourself with a number of mediums. “The more comfortable you are with the products and materials, the easier it is to turn your vision into a reality,” she shares. In the future, Alicia looks forward to continuing her competition journey and shares hopes of opening up her own nail salon suites, potentially alongside a like-minded nail artist. She also reveals her goals of pursuing educator training and sharing her knowledge and experience with those new to the industry. /TheNailSuiteLLC
@TheNailSuiteLLC
@TheNailSuiteLLC
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Many clients may be jetting off to sunny climes, so get them in the holiday spirit by painting palm tree nail styles, as shown by Scratch followers…
CHLOE RANDALL & CARTER ROGERS uncover the hottest nail topics & tales across the ‘net, TV & social media & get the scoop on celebrity beauty must-haves
BAFTA READY
dskin shnailsan .com/lavi Instagram
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viktoriakoromkoz
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TV & radio presenter, Vick Hope, opted for a Light Elegance hue to accompany her stunning styling for this year’s BAFTAS. The star chose the Light Elegance shade, Sexy Lexy: a rich, eggplant purple with a fine shimmer laced throughout. The nail style was created by Kelly Colley of @lavishnailsandskin. She explains: “We needed a colour that would complement two looks, as Vick wore a green dress, before changing into a pale pink dress. It was a choice between Sexy Lexy or Edgar Allan Pur-Poe, but Sexy Lexy won and looked great alongside both outfits.”
Instagram.co
m/cassiesna
ilsandbeauty
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OPI global ambassador, Harriet Westmoreland, added a matcha hue twist to the tips of this nail style for singer & TV presenter, Rochelle Humes. She used a custom blend of shades for a fresh, summer-friendly finish. Try a shade like OPI’s The Pass is Always Greener to recreate the look. OPI GelColor in The Pass is Always Greener £19.90 + VAT www.opiuk.com
ani /arteem m.com Instagra
CELEB MANI SPOT!
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rietwestm
oreland
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synailsan
dspa
Light Elegance Colour Gel in Sexy Lexy £POA www.lightelegance.com
HOT STAT
According to news site, Hola, searches for the simple yet glamorous milky nail style have increased by 186%, with 45.9 million TikTok views generated under the hashtag #milkynails. Jump on the trend and offer this style to clients who seek a minimalist manicure.
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SCRATCHMEDIA
CND Shellac™ in Steel Kisses £14.95 + VAT www.sweetsquared.com
LIZZO’S LOOK
American rapper, Lizzo, took the mermaidcore nail trend to the extreme when she headlined New York City’s music festival, Governor’s Ball. The star’s regular nail tech, Eri Ishizu, created the silver chrome style, complete with jewel additions, using CND PlexiGelTM, CNDTM Future Forms and CND ShellacTM in Steel Kisses. We want to be part of that world!
MAKE-UP FOR A MERMAID
Milk Makeup Lip + Cheek stick £22 inc VAT www.spacenk.com
Make-up artist, Kat Ali of @katalicreative, revealed how she created the stunning look for star of The Little Mermaid, Halle Bailey, on set. Striving to create a natural yet effective make-up look, the artist used Milk Makeup’s Lip + Cheek colour sticks, alongside a hydrating skincare routine. Check out the breakdown on Kat’s Instagram to find out more!
.com/kimkim
nails
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glynne
The GelBottle Inc in Silk and Dew Drops £14.50 + VAT each www.thegelbottle.com
DIAMOND DESIGN
Session nail stylist, Jenny Longworth, created a black French tip design for singer, Jess Glynne, who posted the look on her Insta Story. The nail style featured a jewel at the cuff for an additional bling effect.
COQUETTE CATCH
Coquette nails are proving popular – with #coquette and #coquetteaesthetic boasting seven billion and 1.4 billion views on TikTok respectively. Here, Kim Truong uses The GelBottle Inc’s Silk and Dew Drops to create the delicate style on Kourtney Kardashian’s nails.
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NAILDESIGNS
A gold star on the middle fingernail shines bright over a cat eye effect base, by Norwich’s @_mollycoddle_studio.
Scratch’s signature pink shade features in this fun chrome nail style by @nailsby.hannahlouise, Prestatyn.
Do you need nailspo for The Scratch Stars Party on 23 July? Shoot for the stars with Scratch’s roundup of designs that will dazzle on the dancefloor
Focus
This mix ‘n’ match manicure by @aknayirpsnails features a combination of block stars and outlined shapes in pastel shades for a subtle party look.
Fingernails in
A chic nude allows these chrome stars by These creamy, negative space star nails with @nailsbyamyf to twinkle, and the Petersfield-based subtle glitter will complement any party outfit. nail pro adds a summery twist with colourful dots. By Belgian nail artist, @magic_cagole.
Sunny yellow meets silver party styling in this alternative French nail look, courtesy of @nailsbyru_1993.
Glasgow-based nail stylist, @tafftastic_nails, Lindsey Howard (@witchfacenails) fashions a standcreates an edgy look with black stars and out nail style using Magpie Beauty products, featuring holographic sparkle and colourful chrome stars. silver detailing on a creamy nude base.
Dare to be different with summerappropriate green nails and plenty of stars and sparkles, as shown by @torithetech.
To be in with the chance of seeing your nail snaps on this page, share them with us on social media using #showscratch or email editorial@scratchmagazine.co.uk 98 SCRATCHMAGAZINE.CO.UK
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