Scotland Correspondent Issue 39

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Breathtaking experience at Nevis Range Sounds like Scotland - our new podcasts Diana Gabaldon’s enchanting places

A ‘wee livener’ from our whisky columnist Presidential private letters revealed Chilling tale of the White Wife p1


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Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 10 The

view from Britain’s only mountain gondola

24 Outlander

author enchanted by Inverness

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32 Private

letters of a US President revealed


40 Burgh

records shed light on history

ship runs out of steam

56 Listen

46 Roo

Irvine takes a look at Scottish glass

63 Love

and laughter for Christmas

to the sounds of Scotland

68 Cartoon cats

and Glasgow chats

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Index - Inside this issue

51 Historic


Index - Inside this issue

inside this issue 96 Tom

Morton and his little whisky livener 115 Promoting

Scotland’s larder

71 An

actor’s life for me…. by Scott Kyle 106 Classic

menu for celebrity restaurant 92 Saving

a Highland Chief p6

120

Gintelligence

with Fiona Holland


of the bogs to save the world 128 Return

the wild at Loch Ness

166 Our

guide on where to stay

to

142 Counting

Strange cetaceans for Tales from Thin Places conservation 160

Date 4 Your Diary 172

150 Dedicated

leaders of fashion

1 Cover

Photo

Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland The Ring Of Brodgar stone circle, Orkney p7

Index - Inside this issue

137 Battle


Contacts: Advertising:

ads@scotlandcorrespondent.com

Editorial:

news@scotlandcorrespondent.com Tel: +44 (0)1436 678158

General Enquiries:

info@scotlandcorrespondent.com

Scotland Correspondent is an independent magazine published by Flag Media Limited. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs. Every issue covers a variety of topics of interest to thousands of people every month, many of them visitors to Scotland or part of the great Scottish diaspora. The digital edition incorporates audio, video and text in a single platform designed for use on Apple, Android and Windows devices. The magazine is free to subscribe to and download. For more information on how to get a copy, subscribe or enquire about advertising please contact the relevant departments. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any claim made by advertisements in Scotland Correspondent magazine or on the Scotland Correspondent website. All information should be checked with the advertisers. The content of the magazine does not necessarily represent the views of the publishers or imply any endorsement. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior agreement in writing from Flag Media Limited.

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Activities - A view for a thrill

A view for a thrill

Britain’s only mountain gondola

by Paul Kelbie

T

here can be few more breathtaking sights than the view from Britain’s only mountain gondola ride as it climbs 650m up the side of Aonach Mor in the Scottish Highlands. On a clear day it is possible to

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see almost 100 miles, as far as the summit of Askival on the Isle of Rum and the Cuillin mountains on Skye. The leisurely 15-minute ascent provides plenty of time to gaze over thousands of acres of dark rugged peaks, purple heather moors and lush green farm land once home to warrior clans such

as the Camerons, MacDonalds and Campbells among others - which is liberally dotted with ancient castles, villages, lochs and glens. It is no wonder Scotland has long been recognised as a top staycation hotspot in the British Isles for holidaymakers. Every year thousands of UK domestic


Activities - A view for a thrill Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Looking down to the lower forest section of the downhill course during the Mountain Bike World Cup at The Nevis Range

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Activities - A view for a thrill

and overseas visitors travel to the Highlands and invariably the Nevis Range Mountain Experience is one of the top 10 destinations. Situated just seven miles from

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the historic Highland town of Fort William, which dates back almost 400 years on the eastern shore of the majestic Loch Linnhe, the gondola ride is the jewel in the crown of the Nevis Range Mountain Experience.

Created more than 30 years ago as a centre of adventure Nevis Range has become a ‘must see and do’ attraction for visitors to Scotland from across the UK and mainland Europe, especially Germany, and from countries


Research carried VisitScotland 87 per cent of

as the USA, south-east out by found Chinese

holidaymakers, aged 25 to 45, who come to Scotland say they want to return due to the beautiful landscapes, as well as the culture, relaxing atmosphere and family friendliness - all of which Nevis Range has in abundance.

Signs for Chinese visitors have been installed around the centre’s facilities and arrangements have been made to allow visitors to use online and mobile payment platforms they are familiar with, such as Alipay and WeChat Pay.

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Activities - A view for a thrill

further afield such Thailand, Asia and China.


Activities - A view for a thrill

In addition to the cable car ride there are numerous scenic walks, world class mountain bike trails, aerial obstacle courses, adventure play areas, mouth-

The Nevis Range is an ideal destination for a family day out

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At 1221m Aonach Mór is the ninth highest mountain in the UK.

It sits next to Carn Mór Dearg, at 1220m, and Ben Nevis, the UK’s highest mountain at 1345m, providing a home to a variety of species of flora and fauna.

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Activities - A view for a thrill

watering dining and even great coffee - Nevis Range has it all!


Activities - A view for a thrill Red deer are a common sight roaming the mountainside as are buzzards, hen harriers and golden eagles that nest in the area. Some animals are harder to spot, like the mountain hare, ptarmigan, dotterel bird and pine marten. There are also many hardy species of plants. At certain

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times of the year, there is an abundance of mountain flowers, bog asphodel and bog cotton that can easily be spotted from the gondolas as they make their way up the slopes. Visitors can catch a ride on any one of up to 80 four-person cable

cars that constantly operate from the base station next to the Pinemarten Cafe - which incidentally offers delicious home baking, hot snacks and main meals all served with stunning picturesque views up the mountain slopes.


Activities - A view for a thrill

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Activities - A view for a thrill Meall Beag view point

On arrival at the top station there’s a choice of two spectacularly scenic walking trails to enjoy the panoramic view points of Sgurr Finnis-aig to

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the north and Meall Beag to the southwest. The Sgurr Finnisg-aig trail is a short pleasant 45-minute walk

along a gravelled path with good views of the upland grassland, heath and blanket bog. At the viewpoint, there are some benches from which to sit and


Activities - A view for a thrill

admire the scenery as well as a handy interpretation board identifying the surrounding features.Â

The Meall Beag route, which passes by a children’s play area, provides fabulous views of the surrounding peaks with their boulder strewn slopes and rocky

outcrops. It is a little longer and takes about 60 minutes. There is also bench at the end of the trail from which to soak in the panoramic views of Loch Linnhe,

Father and son on the Meall Beag walk

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Activities - A view for a thrill Pinemarten Cafe cakes

Loch Eil, the hills of Ardgour and Moidart. If, after some exercise and some incredibly fresh air, visitors feel they have worked up an appetite they can enjoy a meal with a view at the Snowgoose Restaurant within the Gondola top station. There is a wide range of locally sourced and freshly prepared food on the menu, including some favourite Scottish specialties, and the bar stocks a selection of local beer, gin and whisky. A gift shop, toilets, interpretation board, children play area, a Snow Sports School and a Mountain Discovery Centre with exhibitions on the wildlife and environment can also be found within the station complex.

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For anyone seeking more active experience there is skiing and snowboarding in winter - the mountain has been a popular winter sports destination since the 1930s - or plenty of mountain bike trails to enjoy the rest of the year. Nevis Range is a world-famous mountain biking destination. There are many miles of testing tracks to suit all abilities throughout Leanachan Forest and the slopes of Aonach Mór, from gentle family trails to international standard race routes. During the summer it is easy to hire bikes and gear on site so visitors don’t have to worry about not being pre-prepared if they suddenly decide they want to try

some of the amazing trails. Another fun family orientated activity worth checking out is the Tree Adventure, a series of aerial obstacle courses designed to provide the ultimate forest adventure for thrill seekers of all ages. The Nevis Range Mountain Experience is more than just a day out. It is an experience that cannot be found anywhere else in Scotland or the rest of the UK. It’s a place where memories are made. For more information on activities at the Nevis Range Mountain Experience, and to check opening times or buy tickets, visit www.nevisrange.co.uk


Activities - A view for a thrill

Nevis Range chair lift

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Photo by Guy Phillips

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Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland

Photo by VisitScotland Diana Gabaldon with her “International Contribution to Scottish Tourism” award

Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland O utlander author Diana Gabaldon has admitted to being “enchanted” by Inverness on her first visit to the city and could see herself living there.

The writer, who hails from Arizona in the USA, recalls her visit to the capital of the Highlands almost 30 years ago, in the video entitled

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Diana Gabaldon’s travels in Scotland.

During the interview, Ms Gabaldon spoke of how Inverness reminded her of her hometown when she first set eyes on it during her Scottish travels in the early 1990s. “We went to Inverness and

booked into a small hotel on the river and we were just enchanted by that. It’s a small town. It’s got a very peaceful vibe to it. I grew up in a small mountain town, Flagstaff, Arizona, and Inverness has much the same feel about it. It’s just a very nice place. I wouldn’t mind living there,” said Diana.


Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland Photo by Stephen C Dickson CC BY-SA 4.0 Monument to Clan MacRae at Sheriffmuir

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Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland

Diana Gabaldon’s travels in Scotland was filmed by VisitScotland at Hopetoun House near South Queensferry, in the wake of the author picking up her “International Contribution to Scottish Tourism” award at the Scottish Thistle Awards, for the Outlander Effect.

Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland Edinburgh Castle and city skyline

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The couple visited Edinburgh

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Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland

Sitting in the library of the 17th century stately home, Ms Gabaldon described visiting Scotland for the first time with her husband while researching the second book in the series, Dragonfly in Amber.


Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland

Photo cc Hans Musil Dundee and Firth of Tay from Dundee Law

Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Dumyat hill at the western extremity of the Ochil Hills, Clackmannanshire

during the summer festival and stayed in Dundee where she recalls a humorous moment of “Scottish genteel hospitality” with a local police officer.

Orkney, visiting Smoo Cave in the Highlands and exploring the Jacobite site of the Battle of Sheriffmuir in the Ochil Hills, Clackmannanshire.

She talks about her time on

Ms Gabaldon never visited

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Scotland while writing the first Outlander book, published in 1991 as Cross Stitch in the UK, and used her skills as a researcher to create an accurate picture of the Highlands in the 18th century.


Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland Photo by Paul Tomkins/VisitScotland The Entrance To Smoo Cave near Durness

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Travel - Outlander author’s enchantment with Scotland

“Because Scotland is so beautiful, there is an immense amount of pictorial stuff. Back then, it was VHS video tapes, but there were also picture books and magazines, so I knew what Scotland looked like. I was quite surprised when I got here to find it was even better than it looked in the photographs,” she said. A further seven novels and nine spin-off books have been published in 43 countries and in 39 languages, selling more than 35 million printed copies worldwide, and in 2014, Outlander was adapted for television by Sony Pictures Television. Outlander follows the romantic adventures of English World War II combat nurse Claire Randall, who travels back in time to 18th century Scotland where she meets and falls in love with Scottish Highlander, Jamie Fraser. Research in to the socalled Outlander Effect by VisitScotland’s Insight Team has revealed that attractions used in the popular television adaptation of her famous novels have seen

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Photo by VisitScotland Diana Gabaldon visiting Culross

visitor numbers rise on average by 40 per cent, from the year before their appearance onscreen. “Diana’s Outlander stories and the TV series have had a huge influence on fans deciding to visit Scotland and in our exclusive video the award-winning author reveals her own visitor experience and the places she holds dear,” said Jenni Steele, Film and Creative Industries Manager at VisitScotland. “We’re continually amazed at

the effect Outlander has had on Scotland and would encourage fans who haven’t ventured to our shores to do so, where they can walk in the footsteps of Claire, Jamie and even Diana herself.” This year the University of Glasgow is set to host a major conference to look at the history, customs, politics, culture, clothes and music featured in the Outlander TV series. Details of the conference can be found on p10 of issue 37 of Scotland Correspondent.


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History - Letter from America

Letter from America

The Philadelphia Presidents House where George Washington probably wrote the letter to Buchan

by Scott Aitken

A

handwritten letter, sent by George Washington to a Scottish nobleman, has shed light on the first US President’s life away from public office and his passion for farming. Revered by many as a military genius and master politician the

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document has revealed he was a dedicated landowner and serious farmer.

Fresh analysis of the handwritten text, sent to a Scottish nobleman to encourage recruitment of skilled workers to Washington’s estate, underlines how seriously he took his duties as a landowner and farmer.

Close inspection reveals that the letter was written by Washington himself, rather than his Private Secretary. It is an indication of the President’s desire to recruit wisely, and a sign of his commitment to his business concerns. The document, written on 20 February 1796, is in the archives of the University of Edinburgh.


History - Letter from America George Washington 1796 CC PD-Art

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History - Letter from America Photo University of Edinburgh Handwritten letter from President George Washington

The three-page letter can be accessed by anyone who wishes to see the text close up. Experts at Edinburgh will now re-assess further examples of 18th century transatlantic discourse held in the archive. The documents will help researchers

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build a clearer picture of BritishUS relations at the time. The letter to Buchan discloses a lot about Washington as a landowner. In 1796, he was seeking to diversify his holdings, focus on growing wheat – rather than tobacco, which he had

abandoned in the 1760s – and move from enslaved labour to tenant farmers. It shows a hard-headed businessman, planning for life after his presidency which he would leave the following year. Its phrasing suggests that he still


History - Letter from America

feels a close cultural connection to at least some people in Britain, and to British agriculture. Washington is careful in his letter not to upset fragile relations between Britain and America, who would go to war for a second time in 1812 when the US found

itself caught between Britain and revolutionary France.

vacancies. His tone is unfailingly polite, almost deferential.

He adopts a softly, softly approach with Buchan, gently inquiring if the Scot knows of any farmers who might be thinking of emigrating to America, rather than blatantly advertising any

The President was aware of the emerging discipline of agricultural science in Scotland, a by-product of Scottish Enlightenment thinking, and he read deeply on the subject.

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History - Letter from America He contrasts ‘slovenly’ American agricultural practices with those used in Scotland – not so much a criticism of his compatriots as a reflection of the relative abundance of arable land in the US. Scots could not afford to be as wasteful as their American counterparts. Farmers in the US

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could simply move on to new land when theirs were exhausted. The text helps us understand British-American relations at a time of great tension as the two nations had nearly gone to war just two years previously. An accord known as the Jay Treaty

averted that outcome, but it proved controversial in the US, and engendered considerable criticism of Washington for the first time in his political career. The letter is one of many that was donated to the University of Edinburgh’s collections by


History - Letter from America Photo by Victuallers CC BY-SA 3.0 Dryburgh Abbey ruins

the great Scottish polymath and antiquarian Sir David Lang in the 1870s. Analysis has been carried out by historians and archivists at the University of Edinburgh and staff based at the Washington Estate at Mount Vernon, Virginia. “The Enlightenment is often referred to as a ‘Republic of Letters’ and exchanges such as those between Washington and Buchan were the social networks of their day, not only swapping ideas but advertising opportunities. How familiar it seems to us today,” said Frank Cogliano, Professor of American History at the University of Edinburgh. David Erskine, 11th Earl of Buchan was a Scottish lord, literary patron, and writer. A

prominent antiquarian and tireless letter writer, he retired in 1787 to Dryburgh Abbey in the Scottish Borders, which he sought to make a centre of Scottish culture. He corresponded with members of the British royal family, the man of letters Horace Walpole and many others and exchanged at least 18 letters with Washington, who was a distant relative, on matters relating mainly to agriculture. Buchan had also been friends with Benjamin Franklin ever since the US statesman’s visit to Scotland in 1759 and met him several times in London in 1764. He was a great supporter of the American independence cause and even sent George Washington a gift of a box made from the oak tree that had hidden William Wallace in the aftermath

of the Battle of Falkirk. Buchan asked that when Washington died the box, which had been designed by the Goldsmith Company of Edinburgh, should be passed to whichever American the President felt best merited it. Unable to make such a choice Washington, who died of in 1799 - 30 years before Buchan, bequeathed the box back to the earl. “There is something quite compelling about the tangible nature of the original, created two days prior to Washington’s 64th birthday before making its way to Scotland. It enables us to imagine him writing it, and allows us to consider the private individual in context,” said Rachel Hosker, Archives Manager at the University of Edinburgh.

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History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

Augsburg. CC BY-SA 3.0

Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

H

istorians working to unlock the secrets of Aberdeen’s burgh records will share in over £500,000 of new funding to enable them to compare this Scottish ‘national treasure’ with a German counterpart. The registers, which date from 1398-1511 and run to some 5,239 pages, are the most complete for any Scottish town and hold

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such historical significance that they have been recognised by UNESCO, the body of the United Nations responsible for the protection of the world’s cultural heritage. The University of Aberdeen has led a project, in collaboration with the City Archives, to painstakingly transcribe the handwritten entries and to open them to the world by making them available as the

Aberdeen Registers Online. Their research has already revealed that Aberdeen may have been the birthplace of Scotch whisky as they uncovered the earliest ever reference to a still for production of the drink (aquavite) in Scotland, as reported on p126 of issue 32 of Scotland Correspondent. They have also demonstrated


History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

Dr Stephen Armstrong of Aberdeen University

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History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

that a king stepped in to settle a dispute on piracy in Aberdeen, offered insights into the region’s response to the plague, and inspired creative engagements with the content of records. A new funding award, from the

Photo by Paul Tomkins / VisitScotland Looking over Aberdeen

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Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) and the German Research Foundation (DFG) will see the University of Aberdeen and Johannes Gutenberg University (JGU) Mainz share over £500,000 to establish a broader European context for

both the Burgh Records and Augsburg’s so-called Master Builder’s Ledgers. The Augsburg ledgers outline the Bavarian city’s financial management practices during the years 1320 to 1466 and – like the


Dr Jackson Armstrong, who will lead the project for the University of Aberdeen, said comparing the two could answer important

questions about the development of medieval towns. “By comparing and contrasting the important historical records we have for both Aberdeen and Augsburg, we will be able to build a clearer picture about

what is unique and distinct in the development of these cities, and what might be part of wider European patterns,” he said. “Our earlier work has revealed much about Aberdeen’s position within Scotland so the natural

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History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

Aberdeen Burgh Records – have been published online following extensive digitisation work.


History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

Aberdeen Burgh records

next step is to broaden this out to a European context. “The University of Aberdeen is marking its 525th birthday and we know that it embraced a northern renaissance during the period of our founder, Bishop Elphinstone, taking huge strides forward in education and social development. “What we are less clear about are the mechanisms that facilitated this. How did the town govern itself, what ideas of government were put into practice every day and how, for instance, were vernacular languages and Latin put to use to this end? “The Aberdeen registers offer a unique glimpse into this hundreds of years later. They are an unrivalled resource for the study of Scotland’s civic past and we are delighted that their significance on a European stage has been recognised with this

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new funding.” A comparison of the records will provide insights into the tools available to governments in the administration and financing of two towns of very different sizes. In the period they cover Aberdeen had a population of between 4-5,000 while Augsburg had a much larger population of around 20,000 people. “While Aberdeen was a trading town of modest size on the North Sea littoral, Augsburg was a Free City of the Holy Roman Empire. It will be interesting to see if they addressed the same sorts of challenges and applied the same kinds of solutions,” said Dr Armstrong. “Because the Aberdeen records are primarily legal and those for Augsburg predominantly financial, they also provide us with real world glimpses into past lives.

“An entry in the Augsburg ledgers, for example, documents payments made to those caring for orphans. This can be used to learn about how the most vulnerable in society were treated and how that compares in a similar periods across Europe. “It also demonstrates the depth of this material. A shared digital humanities approach to these sources on a new scale offers the potential to enhance our understanding of the advancements of the northern renaissance.” Phil Astley, who is the Aberdeen City Archivist, said: “This next step for advancing the understanding of the burgh records in their European context is really exciting. It is a powerful opportunity to build new comparisons and keep Aberdeen’s archives at the frontier of digital humanities research.”The project is one of


Professor Jörg Rogge of JGU’s

Department of History, who is leading the research in Mainz, said: “The fact that we have been chosen in the face of such stiff competition is an indication of the

special nature of our project. It is truly innovative and has a major European dimension.”

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History - Aberdeen records help understanding of renaissance cities

only 19 of the more than 170 applications selected to receive funding.


History - Antique hunting... with Roo Irvine

Antique hunting... with Roo Irvine

A Strathearn glass vase with mottled green body sold by Lyon & Turnbull

A Glass Triangle‌ T hose of us with an interest in antiques have all heard of the names Monart, Vasart and Strathearn -

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three distinct but related types of celebrated Scottish glassware. I admit that in my early days I

was puzzled as to the similarity of these styles, finding it difficult to discern between them, until I learned the story behind the story.


History - Antique hunting... with Roo Irvine A Monart thistle shaped vase, with mottled blue and green inclusions, sold by autioneers Lyon & Turnbull

For more than 150 years the name of John Moncrieff Ltd has been associated with Scottish glassware. But in 1924 a young Barcelona-born glassblower called Salvador Ysart was working at the factory in Perthshire when he inadvertently created a ‘prototype’ which caught the eye of owner Isobel Moncrieff. She was so impressed she encouraged the young man to produce a range of ‘art glass’ vases, scent bottles, paperweights and even lampshades in his own distinctive style which the company called Monart, a blending of the names

Moncrieff and Ysart. Very much in the Art Nouveau style of Emile Galle these ethereal pieces were hugely successful up until the Second World War when production was halted for the duration.

Whisky who changed the name from Vasart to Strathearn. Some 15 years later Strathearn was acquired by Stuart glass in 1980 and the range was rebranded as Stuart Strathearn until production fully ceased in 1992.

When hostilities ended in 1945 Moncrieff was reluctant to revive their art glass production line so Ysart set up Vasart Glass with his two sons, Vincent and Augustine.

Despite all the changes the style of all three brands is incredibly similar and instantly recognisable due to the swirling sandstorm of colours ranging from soft pastel to vibrant emerald greens.

Following the deaths of Salvador and Augustine in 1955 and 1956 respectively Vincent, as the sole remaining partner, sold the company in 1965 to Teachers

At the peak of Monart’s success in the 1930’s it was Scotland’s answer to the exquisite French art glass movement and it adorned the most luxurious environments

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History - Antique hunting... with Roo Irvine from London to New York, sparking a range of similar styles from other manufacturers. For collectors of today identifying a genuine Monart, Vasart or Strathearn glass can be tricky. Most pre-war pieces had paper labels attached whereas post-war pieces would have an acid etched signature. Failing the existence of a mark or label, the shape, base type and colour can help identify a piece as Monart and Vasart varied in their trademark shapes. Monart pieces feature three layers of glass, and are often deeper and richer in colour. In terms of value Monart pieces are certainly more valuable than Vasart. A collection of five Vasart glass bowls sold by Lyon & Turnbull

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History - Antique hunting... with Roo Irvine

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Public support needed for iconic steamship by Paul Watson

T

he 120 year old steamship that sails on Loch Katrine in the Trossachs has been taken out of service due to extensive cracks in the boilers. The problems were discovered

during a rigorous annual inspection programme forcing Trustees who look after the iconic vessel to declare them beyond repair and cancel sailings for the coming season. ‘’This is a major setback as we were looking forward to a special

anniversary year celebrating 120 years of the steamship sailing. This follows on from a downturn in business linked to major landslides on the lochside last August and we were well on the road to recovery with the prospects of a bumper season ahead,” said Gordon Allan,

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History - Public support needed for iconic steamship

The historic Steamship Sir Walter Scott, Loch Katrine


History - Public support needed for iconic steamship

Manager Director of the Sir Walter Scott Steamship Ltd. ‘’The immediate priorities now are taking steps to safeguard the 55 direct jobs and many

Steamer passes Steamer, Ellan`s Isle

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indirect jobs dependent on our Loch Katrine operations, and ensuring we are in a position to honour existing group business contracts as well as independent travel and walk up business this

season. We are fortunate that we have other boats available so I am confident with the goodwill of the general public and the commitment and enthusiasm of our staff we should be able to


Loch Katrine and the Trossachs was the birthplace of Scottish tourism following the publication of the blockbuster poem Lady of the Lake in 1810 by Sir Walter Scott.

The rapid growth in visitor numbers to the area led to the introduction of passenger ferryboats and a number of steamships in the 1800s. Eventually the Steamship Sir

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History - Public support needed for iconic steamship

continue to trade successfully and offer a high quality visitor experience while we consider ways to bring the Sir Walter Scott Steamship back into service as quickly as possible.’’


History - Public support needed for iconic steamship

Walter Scott was commissioned and it first came into service in the spring of 1900 after trials on the Clyde in 1899.

in 2008 the steamship moved from being powered by coal to more environmentally friendly bio diesel.

Ownership of the steamship transferred from Scottish Water to a charitable trust in 2007 and

‘’Our trustees are determined to ensure the historic steamship, which is an important and

Photo by Michael Garlick CC BY-SA 4.0 Loch Katrine Steamship Sir Walter Scott approaches dock

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unique Scottish heritage asset, continues to have a future operating on Loch Katrine and immediate steps have been taken to explore costed options to bring the steamship back into service which are both realistic and sustainable. We are anxious


Steamship Trust. “Once we have more details on future options, likely costs and our funding strategy, which may well include a public funding appeal, we will issue an update but in the meantime we would

urge members of the public to support our existing operation by visiting Loch Katrine which continues to be a very special destination in the heart of the Loch Lomond and The Trossachs National Park.’’

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History - Public support needed for iconic steamship

to ensure we are not faced with a similar situation again in a few years due to steam boiler unreliability issues which have a striking resemblance to what happened to the PS Waverley boilers last year,” said James Fraser, CEO and a Trustee of the


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Ralf Schulze CC BY 2.0 Treacherous Orchestra at International folk festival, Bonfeld, Germany

Now hear this!

Y

ou’ve read the stories and viewed the images now listen to the music of Scotland.

Scotland Correspondent magazine has launched a musical podcast showcasing the very best of contemporary and traditional Scottish music. Presented by veteran broadcaster, musician and writer Tom Morton the new monthly Musical Correspondent is a fusion of all that is good in Scottish music with some of the best songs and tunes from the country’s top performers.

Listen here This month’s show features

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Linsey Aitken and Ken Campbell

music from Linsey Aitken & Ken Campbell, a fresh and exciting traditional music duo who were featured in Scotland

Correspondent issue 19 talking about their career and the history that has inspired many of their songs.


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

with Tom Morton

#world #folk #scottish

Music to accompany reading Scotland Correspondent, the world’s only free online magazine dealing with Scotland all things Scottish. scotlandcorrespondent.com 1 Come On In - Linsey Aitken & Ken Campbell 2 The Creelman / The Normaway Inn / The Reconciliation - Saltfishforty 3 I Didn’t Try Hard Enough - Kris Drever 4 Latha Math - Mànran 5 Every River - Single Version - Runrig 6 ‘Shetland Set’: The Lament for the Sailor Who Fell from the Masthead / The Scalloway Lasses / The Watle O’it - Aly Bain 7 Wind And Rain - Julie Fowlis 8 The Ramblin’ Rover - Siobhan Miller 9 Thursday Night - Blazin’ Fiddles 10 Niel Gow’s Lament For The Death Of His Second Wife - Barte Eike 11 Broken Wings - Dougie MacLean 12 Superfly - Treacherous Orchestra

with Tom Morton

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Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Kergourlay CC BY-SA 3.0 Mànran at Festival de Cornouaille

There are also performances from Saltfishforty, an Orkney pair who combine the rich traditional music of their native islands with original compositions; Kris Drever, another Orkney lad who rose to fame with the release of his debut solo album Black Water; award winning supergroup Mànran,

Photo by Nick Bramhall CC BY-SA 2.0 Kris Drever

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one of the most respected and celebrated Scottish bands on the road today; and the legendary Runrig. Shetland’s most famous son and renowned Scottish fiddler Aly Bain is also featured alongside Gaelic folk singer and multi-

instrumentalist Julie Fowlis and Siobhan Miller, an exceptional singer and songwriter with roots in folk music. There’s also a tune from the Scottish 12-piece Celtic fusion band Treacherous Orchestra. The 60 minute show is packed full

Photo Trevox CC BY-SA 2.0 Aly Bain


Photo Sean Rowe CC BY-SA 2.0 Julie Fowlis

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Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by GunChleoc CC BY-SA 4.0 Runrig


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Annie Tuite Blazin Fiddles

of great performances including one from Blazin’ Fiddles, the internationally acclaimed supergroup featured in Scotland Correspondent issue 2 and Dougie MacLean, the man behind the iconic anthem for homesick Scots - Caledonia. Dougie has also featured in Scotland Correspondent, in issue 4, talking about his inspiration and love for his homeland. “Musical Correspondent is the ideal soundtrack to enjoy while reading Scotland Correspondent, the world’s only free digital publication about Scotland and all

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things Scottish,” said Paul Kelbie, Editor of the magazine. “Tom’s weekly Beatcroft Social show via 60 North radio provides listeners from around the world with a wide variety of music ranging from classic pop, rock and soul through cutting edge Scottish indie to jazz and folk. He is one of Scotland’s best known radio voices and an excellent addition to the Scotland Correspondent clan. “Since we launched in January 2017 we have become renowned for our use of great images and

interesting stories. Our aim is to take Scotland into the homes of our thousands of followers in more than 60 countries and by adding the sound of Scotland it’s the next best thing to being here!” In addition to the Musical Correspondent show Tom will be writing a regular whisky column for the magazine, the first of which is on page 96, and providing some spine-tingling ‘Strange Tales from Thin Places’ to chill the blood - starting with the story of the White Wife of Unst on p160


Broadcast - Musical Correspondent... with Tom Morton

Photo by Tom Watt Dougie MacLean

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Arts - Ready for Christmas

Ready for Christmas

Kenny Boyle and Natalie Clark

by Helen Lloyd

T

here might be still be almost 300 days to Christmas but plans are already well underway to add an extra Scottish sparkle to the season.

After more than two weeks of intense filming in the snow covered hills around Glen Coe and Lochaber in the Scottish Highlands editing has begun on what is hoped will be the festive film of the year.

first independent romantic comedy Christmas movie. It tells the story of a young man, played by Kenny Boyle, who gets dumped by his girlfriend immediately after proposing to her.

Perfect Strangers is Scotland’s

However, as with all feel good

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Arts - Ready for Christmas Cast of Perfect Strangers

movies the broken-hearted hero meets up with a ‘perfect stranger’, played by newcomer Natalie Clark, who just might prove to be his path to new love and happiness.

the seventh incarnation of the time lord is in it, as is Caitlin Blackwood a young Amy Pond during Matt Smith’s time as the doctor.

The 90-minute feature film, directed by Ryan Hendrick and co-written by him and Clare Sheppard, has a stellar line-up with no less than three Dr Who actors.

Frazer Hines, who made his debut as Jamie McCrimmon - a kilted companion to Patrick Troughton’s Doctor Who in 1966, is said to have been the inspiration for Diana Gabaldon to begin writing her series of Outlander books.

Sylvester McCoy, who played

Other stars in the movie include

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Sanjeev Kohli, best known for his part in the BBC comedy series Still Game, and former pop star turned actor and presenter Clare Grogan, who was in Bill Forsyth’s classic Scottish comedy film Gregory’s Girl. “I get approached by quite a lot of film makers and I am very selective as to what I agree to do but this script stood out,” said Claire Grogan. “I think Ryan has got a really


Arts - Ready for Christmas

lovely eye. He creates good pictures and there is always a little bit of edge to the stories. It’s not all candy floss, there is some depth as well. “Every so often you just come across someone in life you click with and Ryan is one of those people. I think this film is going to have a lot of international appeal which, largely through word of mouth, will result in it turning out to be a big success.”

The film, which is being made on a tiny budget of around £60,000, is due to be released in time for December 2020, making it the first ever Scottish-made RomCom to hit the cinema screens. “It’s been a very ambitious project to do on this budget but it is already getting interest from sales agents who see a commercial life for a romantic comedy shot in Scotland,” said Ryan Hendrick, who already has two other Scottish-based movies

in the pipeline attracting interest from home grown and overseas backers. “There’s never been anything like it before. There is a huge resurgence in Christmas films around the world at the moment and there is also a lot of interest in Scotland. That makes any festive-themed movie made here doubly attractive.”

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Arts - Fun and laughter wi Glesgae patter

Fun and laughter wi Glesgae patter

T

here was a time when Sam the Skull*, as sung by Alastair McDonald, was the only famous Glasgow cat but now there’s a new pride in town. The Wildcats is a comic strip by artist Catherine Neville that’s helping educate people around the world about some of the legendary Glasgow patter. Since she started drawing caricatures of her and a friend’s three domestic felines almost 30 years ago, and giving them human personalities, Catherine’s

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cartoon cats have developed a life of their own. “Sometime around the early 1990s I was sharing a flat with my friend Mo and three cats. For amusement I started to draw them and imagine the kind of things they’d get up to if they were human based on their characters,” said Catherine. “Droos was clever and bossed the other two about, Bogey was laid back and loved food and when Moss arrived all hell broke lose. Moss seemed to be the rebel and was always getting up

to all sorts, including throwing a hissy fit when anyone new walked in. Visitors were usually wary!” The self taught artist, who specialises in drawing iconic Scottish buildings, found her talent for cartoons could be used to help promote her other passion for the Scots language. Over time Catherine, developed a number of story lines she could use to illustrate some of the words and phrases she grew up hearing in the east-end of Glasgow.


Arts - Fun and laughter wi Glesgae patter

“I’ve always been passionate about promoting the Scots language because living in the east-end of Glasgow it’s what I heard and I just imagined that’s the way The Wildcats would speak if they could,” said Catherine, who has been amazed by the number of Americans who are keen to learn Scots words and are interested in speaking the language. “I find the Glasgow humour particularly funny. I love listening to Billy Connolly, Kevin Bridges and all the other Glasgow comedians but sometimes an ordinary person can be just as funny when they are telling

anecdotes. “I love the stories people tell me and I use some of that in the cartoons. Glaswegians have a number of words which share the same meaning.” It’s been estimated that just as the Inuit people are believed to have more than 50 words for snow Glaswegians have at least 25 words for being drunk, including steamin’, miroclous and blootered. “Sometimes all it takes is a turn of phrase or a single word which can spark an idea that I can build a cartoon around,”

added Catherine, who has begun building a following for her work on social media. “I find it’s a good way to introduce Glasgow words to a wider audience and it’s fun to do.” Catherine can be found tweeting at https://twitter.com/catnev8, on Instagram @the_wildcats_ glasgow and on FaceBook @ catnev8. *If you haven’t heard Sam the Skull, aka The Glasgow Cat written by Harry Hagan and famously recorded by Alastair McDonald, it can be found on YouTube

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by Scott Kyle

Teaninich Castle

It’s good to be king - even for a day O nce in a while it’s nice to see how the other half live, especially when it gives me the chance to be King of the castle - even if it was only for a weekend.

To celebrate our 20th anniversary together I took my wife Karen to stay at the beautiful Teaninich Castle just outside of Inverness. I do enjoy a bit of history and

this place has it in spades. Even though nobody knows exactly when the castle was built it is believed to date back at least 500 years or more to the 16th century.

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

An actor’s life for me...


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

What is known is that the place was around in 1660 because there’s written evidence to show it was bought by the Munros in February of that year.

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Clearly the original building was extended and changed around a bit over the decades as there are two weathered stones at the rear of the castle dated 1734 and


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

1770, but it’s difficult to work out exactly which are the ‘new’ bits - if you can call something more than 250 years old ‘new’.

The castle remained in the Munro family until 1923 when it was bought by a man called Charles Harrison, an American who is said to have been the inspiration for

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

the book Little Lord Fauntleroy by Frances Hodgson Burnett. Today it looks more like a country mansion than a fortress, which is

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

probably why it was turned into a hotel in later years. However, the property may have another claim to fame - one which

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

really appeals to my theatrical side. A couple of years ago new research revealed the celebrated actress Marilyn Monroe was descended from Scottish ancestors and it’s thought they were most likely to have been the

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Munros of Teaninich. Certainly staying there made both Karen and I feel like Hollywood royalty, especially as we had the place to ourselves. As the only guests we had free reign of

the building with only Steven, our personal butler from Rosset Butlers, to tend to our every need. A weekend to remember sure enough.


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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

I

Jings, crivens and help ma boab!

n addition to living it up in a castle for the weekend I got to indulge another childhood fantasy - to see one of my cartoon heroes live on stage. Like many children growing up

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in Scotland I received a copy of the annual Oor Wullie book every year at Christmas. So, I was very excited about going along to see the latest stage production of the show called simply Oor Wullie.

For those that don’t know Oor Wullie is a national icon in Scotland. There can’t be anyone who has never heard of him and read of his exploits in the Sunday Post newspaper every weekend or in the traditional Christmas


as kilts and bagpipes.

His trademark spiky hair, black dungarees, tackety boots and the upturned bucket he always sat on are as recognisable to most Scots

Originally drawn by the cartoonist Dudley D. Watkins Wullie first appeared in the Sunday Post in March 1936 and he’s been

a feature of our native culture ever since, getting up to all sorts of escapades and entertaining generations of Scots. By the way, for a period of time

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

annual many kids got very year.


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

from 2005 to 2006, the weekly cartoon strips were written by broadcaster, writer and Scotland Correspondent’s

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newest columnist Tom Morton. Tom is writing both a whisky column and a regular feature on ‘Strange Tales from Thin Places’

for Scotland Correspondent starting in this issue. He also presents our new monthly podcast Musical Correspondent


However, back to the show. After all these years seeing Oor Wullie on the pages of a newspaper it was with some trepidation that

Karen and I went to see the new live musical show at Eden Court Theatre in Inverness.

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

which brings the sound of Scotland to our readers around the world.


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

I needn’t have worried. It was fantastic. All the familiar characters were there to create a hilariously funny and sometimes thought provoking show which

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took time between the songs and jokes to look at cultural anxieties, national identity and explore a sense of belonging.

The whole cast were fantastic and there was a great mix of new up and coming talent alongside a cast of seasoned professionals. A real treat for all the family.


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

Welcome return of old friends

My friend Paul D Cassidy

S

peaking of talent I was so pleased to see the return of Outlander to our tv screens in February with the launch of season five.

Watching the episode at home with Karen I was delighted to see my former Outlander colleagues dancing, drinking and celebrating together.

It was particularly nice to see my good friend and my fellow actor Paul D Cassidy on screen playing Leith Farrish.

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

Paul and I met almost a decade ago when we were both playing for the same football team. One night at football training he ran alongside me and said he had

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

heard I was an actor. We chatted throughout the training session and have since become great friends.


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

We’ve also been lucky enough to work together as I also employed Paul in one of my Christmas pantomime shows, where he

No delusions of grandeur - Paul played the king in my pantomime of Sleeping Beauty

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I’m glad to say that since those

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Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

played the King in Sleeping Beauty.


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

early days Paul has gone on to work on many other projects including Holmes and Watson

Paul as Charlie Chaplin

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where he played Charlie Chaplin alongside Will Farrell and John C. Reilly.

He’s a great talent and a face to watch out for in the future. Remember, you heard it here first!


Arts - An actor’s life for me... by Scott Kyle

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Arts - Highland chief belongs to Glasgow Location of Darien colony (www.maps-for-free.com CC BY 3.0)

Highland chief belongs to Glasgow

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lasgow Museums has secured A Highland Chieftain: Portrait of Lord Mungo Murray, a truly iconic portrait for the culture of Gaelic Scotland, for the city. The striking painting, by John Michael Wright (1617-1694), is the earliest major portrait to depict a

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sitter full-length in Highland dress. Mungo Murray was aged just 15 when he was painted sometime around 1683 wearing an exquisite doublet and fĂŠileadh mĂłr, or belted plaid in tartan that predates the invention of kilts and clan tartans.

The painting has been put on display in the Scottish Identity in Art gallery at Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, Glasgow, juxtaposed with interesting examples of Scottish weaponry, textiles and decorative art objects, which provide fascinating historical context.


Arts - Highland chief belongs to Glasgow Photo Glasgow Museums Collection John Michael Wright Portrait of Lord Mungo Murray (c) CSG CIC

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Arts - Highland chief belongs to Glasgow

Organisers of the exhibition are convinced the portrait will delight local visitors and anyone with a Scottish family connection given its historical significance and insight, which allows for a better understanding of Scottish national heritage. “Our successful acquisition of this hugely significant painting for Scottish culture and national identity ensures it remains accessible to the public who have come to love and identify with the work,” said David McDonald, Chair of Glasgow Life and Depute Leader of Glasgow City Council. “The portrait supports Glasgow Museums’ Scottish history, dress and textile and military collections, providing invaluable information for cultural historians interested in our national heritage, Gaelic culture and Highland identity”. Visitors will be able to learn more about the painting and the artist through a programme of events and activities that will accompany its display in Kelvingrove. “Lord Mungo Murray’s fine portrait draws on the ideology of the brave and fearless warrior, so much part of Scotland’s history and identity. It’s an excellent addition to Glasgow Museums’ permanent collection, enriching the story of one the most celebrated of Highland Chieftains,” said Stephen Deuchar, Art Fund Director.

his wealth and status as an aristocratic and cosmopolitan Highland Scot. He proudly holds a long gun made for hunting, sports a brass basket-hilted sword of ribbon-hilt form and a lavishly-decorated dirk, the ornamental knot-work of which is unique to the Gàidhealtachd (Gaelic speaking regions) and wears a brace of steel pistols, complete with rams-horn’ shaped butts hooked on each side of his belt, a design that was exclusive to Scotland. The safeguarding of such an iconic artwork for the culture of Scotland will enable Glasgow Museums to advance their research into Gaelic culture and Scottish history. Through family events, educational workshops, talks and tours, handling sessions and craft opportunities focused on the painting, curators will explore issues of tartan myths; the meaning of Scottish identity in a multi-cultural, richly diverse society; gender stereotypes, toxic masculinity; teenage culture and transatlantic slavery. The purchase of the painting was made with the generous support of The National Lottery Heritage Fund, Art Fund, Friends of Glasgow Museums and the National Fund for Acquisitions.

The large-scale work presents Lord Mungo Murray (1668-1700) as a powerful Highlander warrior, standing in a mountainous landscape with his servant in the background carrying his master’s longbow and fur-decorated targe.

“This striking work-of-art is a photograph of its time, capturing a period in our social history which predates the Highland dress we recognise today. We’re delighted it will form the centerpiece of a gallery where everyone can see and enjoy it while exploring Scotland’s heritage and identity,” said Caroline Clarke, The National Lottery Heritage Fund’s Director, Scotland.

Mungo Murray is clothed with an exquisite paned wool doublet embroidered with silver and silvergilt threads, which demonstrates

Mungo born on 29 February 1668 - the fifth son of John Murray (1631–1703), the second Earl of Atholl, and Lady Amelia

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Ann Sophia Stanley (1633–1702) who was the fourth daughter of James, 7th Earl of Derby. Mungo’s father, John Murray, was created the 1st Marquess of Atholl in 1676, which gained the teenager the title Lord Mungo Murray. The family positioned themselves as leading Scots in the political arena, prepared to fight and settle disputes on the side of the Stuart monarchy and government. When the portrait was painted, Mungo Murray’s father was Keeper of the Privy Seal of Scotland. Mungo was involved in various military expeditions during the troubles in the north of Scotland in the 1680s and 1690s. Although only 15 in Wright’s portrait, the artist suggests military prowess to come and presents him as following in his father’s footsteps as a future powerful landowner and estate manager, and by extension political influencer. However, despite his family’s success, Mungo Murray’s own life was an unsettled one and did not end happily. In 1699 he was rejected by Margaret Campbell, the daughter of politician and Covenanter Sir George Campbell of Cessnock, Ayrshire, whom he had hoped to marry. Desiring to further his family’s political and economic position, Mungo Murray sailed for Darién (in present day Panama) in Central America in 1699. This was part of an ill-fated attempt to found a Scottish plantation settlement there by the Company of Scotland Trading to Africa and the Indies, established in 1695. Shortly after his arrival in Darién, in early 1700 Mungo Murray, aged only 32, was killed by Spanish forces who had already laid claim to the territory.


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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

Skailg:

A wee livener... by Tom Morton

Those whisky mornings

A

sharp blow to the head. That’s the literal translation of the wonderful Gaelic word

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Skailg, used more often to refer to the (not exclusively) Hebridean tradition of consuming a dram of whisky in the morning. A wee

livener, as more lowland Scots may refer to it. I was introduced to this procedure


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

- I was going to say habit, but it’s not an indulgence I’ve ever really succumbed to on a regular basis - by an Englishman, and not in the Hebrides, but in the Shetland Isles. The great Simon Nicol, founder member of folk-rock pioneers Fairport Convention, was playing at the Shetland Folk Festival, and I was on the bill too, in a more lowly capacity.

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The festival, which I highly recommend, mounts concerts in every part of our scattered archipelago, and in this case, we were playing in Unst, Scotland’s northernmost inhabited island. In those days, the artists - and there were perhaps six acts on the bill, the rest of whom I have, alas, forgotten - stayed overnight

in the community where the gig took place, and the concert was followed by a dance, which was in turn followed by a party, which led to a few tunes and drams in the house you were staying in (no hotels - certainly not!). This pattern was followed by Simon and I. We were staying in the home of the local and most hospitable headmaster. We got


We gathered, a bleary and wobbly group of musicians, at the Uyeasound Public Hall, where the bus awaited us. It seemed Simon and I had not been alone

in carousing into the not-so-early hours. Clearly, we all felt awful. How would we face the long trip back to Lerwick, the Shetland capital, not to mention two sea journeys? But Simon, a veteran of such situations, had the solution. “I wonder,” he said in the sonorous tones of an officer commanding a motley regiment,

“if it may be possible to open the bar?” There was a brief hiatus of, oh, 30 or so seconds, and then the hall door was unlocked, the bar shutters rolled up and Simon, bless him, ordered whiskies for every one of us. Even, as he said, if we didn’t actually drink the stuff. The effect was magical. After the

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

to bed at, oh, around 4.00am. Unfortunately, we had to get up at 6.00am to catch the first of two ferries back to Shetland’s main island.


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

first impression of being given a quick, if friendly slap around the scalp, life entered our bodies and brains. We were consuming uisge beatha, after all - the water of life. The sun came out, at least metaphorically. Pain vanished, a sense of wellbeing and warmth suffused our beings. Thoughts turned to, you know,

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perhaps having another one for the road. Te Bheag, as they say in Gaelic. Another wee one. But no, Simon, our saviour, knew our and his limits. We floated onto the bus, and I remember nothing of the journey save waking up in Lerwick and never enjoying a full Scottish breakfast (complete with that Shetlandic delicacy,

sassermaet - spiced, rough fried sausagemeat) - quite so much. Later, I discovered that the phenomenon of the early morning dram, the wee livener, the skalk or skailg, was first described in English by another Englishman, namely Dr Samuel Johnson, during his 1773 tour of the


In his book about the trip, A Journey to the Western Islands of Scotland (Boswell wrote his own account of the 83 day-

escapade, A Journal of a Tour to the Hebrides) Johnson states: “A man of the Hebrides, for of the woman’s diet I can give no account, as soon as he appears in the morning, swallows a glass of whisky; yet they are not a drunken race, at least I never was present at much intemperance;

but no man is so abstemious as to refuse the morning dram, which they call a skalk.” Now, the morning consumption of spirits by hard-working folk facing a day out and about in often bad weather is a worldwide phenomenon. In Normandy, a Calvados with your morning

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

Western Isles in the company of that indefatigable diarist, biographer and Scot, James Boswell. Johnson was 63 at the time.


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

coffee was a common start to the day, and in Italy the caffe corretto may still, in some instances, be necessary to correct the previous night’s indulgences (just add grappa). In Scotland, a concern for health and extremely stringent driving laws mean the skailg is nowadays much rarer. Except during folk festivals. However, professional whisky writers often face a terribly tiresome day of checking, rating and passing comment on different drams, which inevitably means starting early (your tastebuds and nasal passages are, on the whole, subject to what you’ve been up to the night before, clearer and more sensitive in the mornings). I once found myself with 27 samples of whisky to judge, score (out of 10) and

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describe before my deadline that same evening. It’s a tough job. Someone’s got to do it. Skailg after skailg after skailg. It is an accepted myth of the industry that the best spirit masters in Scotch whisky used only their nasal passages to come up with the combinations of single malt and grain which became the world’s top blends. It is true that the sensitive noses of some blenders were heavily (and with much fanfare) insured against damage through, say, accidental collision with a fist, but the truth is that mouthfeel and aftertaste are essential components in ascertaining a drink’s qualities. You don’t have to swallow a lot. But that amber liquid must touch the palate, at least in my opinion. Not so much


What though, would be, in the worst (or best) of all possible situations, a good morning dram? One of my pet hatreds is the promotion of over-priced whisky, aimed only at wealthy collectors. I believe in accessible, high quality Scotch which is affordable and readily available, and that’s what I’ll be concentrating on in this column. No banks will have to be broken to afford what I describe. Besides, my wife wouldn’t stand for it. So I’m going to recommend, as a morning dram, as your own personal skalk or skailg, the creamy breakfast malt that is Jura 10-year-old, readily found at round £25 in British

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Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

a sharp blow to the head. More a friendly caress.


Food & Beverage - Skailg: A wee livener... by Tom Morton

supermarkets. For 75cl, or around 30 wee skalks or skailgs For reasons I won’t go into (being in charge of a tombola stall, actually) I once found myself in possession of a case (six bottles) of Jura 10, though this was many years ago and while it was the product of the same distillery, Jura 10 these days is a different beast. In my 1992 book Spirit of Adventure I called that Jura “a dram I dislike.”, which made my visit to the island the following year a little frosty. And in fact didn’t stop the tombola case disappearing, dram by dram. Did I drink it? I fear I must have, or at least some. But Jura’s bottlings have changed in 27 years - and so have I. Indeed the ‘recipe’ for modern Jura expressions is different now, and there is a new dynamism in the distilling culture on the island. There was a time when I would

order only fierce Islay whiskies reeking of peat and the seashore; I’m happy to say that my tastes have widened. Though there is a time and a place for peat monsters, notably when eating smoked mackerel, barbecued on an open fire by the sea. There is a lot to say about Jura, the island. It’s a spectacular place. George Orwell wrote 1984 there, at the house called Barnhill. I have a piece of his old motorbike on my desk. The band KLF reputedly burnt a million pounds in cash on Jura, as an act of art terrorism. And there is a splendid ghost story associated with the distillery - one I feel certain will surface in the Strange Tales from Scotland’s Thin Places podcast. But what I want to say is that the current manifestation of 10-yearold Jura is a very acceptable, good value whisky. And if - when - you open a bottle of a morning,

you’ll immediately be taken to Jura’s main village, Craighouse, and the aroma of those tall, slim stills in full production. The whisky is aged in American oak barrels for a decade but before bottling it’s given what the label calls “a sweet sherry cask finish” presumably by a quick swirl around some Oloroso barrels. As a morning dram, it combines an undemanding ease with enough smoky, sherry character to make it a very friendly skailg indeed. It’s nothing like the drams characteristic of the island’s close neighbour, Islay. Jura Single Malt Scotch Whisky, aged 10 years. £25-£35 in the UK. The range of Jura whiskies available currently includes rare 21-year-old bottlings in the Time and Tide range, as well as Jura 12, Jura Journey, Seven Wood and Jura 18.

Jura 10, tasting notes (morning!) COLOUR:

Significantly darker than the straw-coloured Jura 10 of my tombola days. Suspicions of caramel colouring -common and quite legal - but there is evidence of that final whoosh through sherry drenched wood. NOSE: It’s only 40 per cent alcohol, so no water necessary, at least for me. In the glass it possesses the citrus and vanilla,

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the airy seaside breeziness of an island distillery actually making spirit. A bit more sniffing will give you oak, though, with the ashy dankness of warehouses creeping in.

IN THE MOUTH: Butterscotch and almond cream cut with lemon and a biscuity, shortbread, oatcakes-off-an-Aga taste. The smoke disappears quickly. The American oak

dominates but the far-off hint of sherry cask gives you that slight tang of remembered wedding cake.

SWALLOW and BREATHE: Warming, not abrasive, which is what you want in the forenoon. A sudden sense that this, after all, a Hebridean, island whisky, albeit the smoothest and most disarming. The slightest whiff of ozone. Have a great day! Mind your head…


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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

Back in the kitchen

by Helen Lloyd

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elebrated television chef and quality food campaigner Nick Nairn is going back into the kitchen with a new restaurant focusing on top Scottish produce. The family friendly venue called Nick’s, on the main street of

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Bridge of Allan near Stirling, aims to provide a mouth-watering menu using locally sourced ingredients to create classic café and bistro dishes with a contemporary twist. The celebrity chef, food campaigner and enthusiastic advocate for healthy eating says he is looking forward to getting

back to the kitchen and taking a hands-on approach beside his head chef Leon McIntyre. Leon has worked in a number of restaurants and venues across Scotland, most recently in Edinburgh’s Baba. Breakfasts will include shakshouka granola blended in-house and served with skyr,


Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

honey and pomegranate; brioche French toast with caramelised banana, blueberries, cream cheese or smoked bacon, roast pecan, maple syrup; Smashed avocado with rose harissa, tomato, and poached egg, and charred sourdough; and a range of house pancakes. Lunch and dinner include dishes like venison saddle with beetroot, crowdie tartlet, blueberries and potato rösti; House garam marsala roasted root vegetable curry; Buddha bowls and sandwiches that range from classics to the likes of Nick’s original cure smoked Scottish salmon, mustard cress, Katy Rodger’s Crowdie, lemon, black pepper. A variety of Roma-style pizzas will be made using three-day aged dough with toppings such Great Glen venison salami, Campbells haggis, Katy Rodger’s crowdie, bacon-toasted oats and parsley;

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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

or a North African-inspired speciality with Miso aubergine, rose harissa, chermoula, toasted

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pine nuts, brandy soaked raisins and pomegranate.

The menu also includes a range of gourmet hot dogs made in Dumfries & Galloway by Brigston


Burgers will be made in-house from traditional cuts like chuck and brisket from slow-grown, traditional cattle breeds like

shorthorn, belted Galloway and Highland, and teamed with organic brioche buns.

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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

& Co served with on a brioche bun, with caramelised onions, crispy shallots and house beef chilli.


Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

The new restaurant is a joint venture with his wife Julia, Managing Director of Nick Nairn Enterprises. The couple married in 2019 and together also run the acclaimed Nick Nairn Cook School on the shores of the nearby Lake of Menteith and The Kailyard by Nick Nairn restaurant at the Doubletree Hilton in Dunblane. “I was born and brought up just down the road from Bridge of Allan so this is something of a homecoming for me and my family. This is the first time I’ve ever worked in partnership like this and already all the family are getting involved in shifts front of house,” said Nick.

Julia and Nick Nairn

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The 61-year-old chef, who was youngest Scottish chef to win a Michelin star in the early 1990s, grew up Trossachs and is a passionate campaigner for the promotion of Scotland’s fabulous natural larder. In 2007 he was awarded an honorary doctorate by the University of Stirling for his contributions to Scottish cooking and healthy eating campaigns.

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Food & Beverage - Back in the kitchen

“It’s a family-run restaurant that will appeal to other families, with food that’s recognisable but cooked really well and given a contemporary twist. Julia and I are delighted to be a part of Bridge of Allan’s thriving town centre - it’s our local after all too!”


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Food & Beverage - Celebrating Scottish produce IJ Mellis Cheesemonger, Edinburgh

Celebrating Scottish produce

A

new initiative to encourage more people to sample the joys of blending whisky with cheese is among a number of projects to be funded by the Scottish government.

Fine Cheesemakers of Scotland were among those to get funding with a £3,450 grant for a range of projects, including ways to promote cheese as a pairing to whisky at distillery visitor centres and in restaurants.

A total of 21 regional products and businesses across Scotland have been awarded funding of up to £5,000 each from the Connect Local Regional Food Fund to promote locally sourced food and drink.

“We are proud to be producing award-winning cheeses and excited about targeting different sectors so more people have the opportunity to enjoy our wonderful cheeses, which are part of the diverse selection

of food and drink Scotland has to offer the world,” said Jane Stewart, who chairs Fine Cheesemakers of Scotland. Whisky and cheese pairings have become a popular among organisers of events put on by hotels, restaurants and other venues across Scotland and overseas, as reported in Scotland Correspondent issue 15. Among the recipients to be given grants to promote Scottish

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Food & Beverage - Celebrating Scottish produce

produce is the Bute Kitchen, a new brand being created to bring together the renowned food and drink products grown and produced on the island of Bute.

Inside IJ Mellis

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Food & Beverage - Celebrating Scottish produce

Other initiatives include Lerwick fish market, Crail Food Trail, ScotRumFest 2020, the Taste of Orkney food festival, the Speyside Producer’s Market, South Lanarkshire Good Food and Drink Week, and the Outer Hebrides Food Tourism Strategy.


Food & Beverage - Celebrating Scottish produce Jill Clark, Connage Highland Dairy; Mairi Gougeon; cheesemonger Rory Mellis; Callum Clark; Jane Stewart, St Andrews Cheese

Photo by Stewart Cunningham Victor Brierly and George Mews, in George Mews Cheese shop, Glasgow tasting whisky with cheese

“I have been hugely impressed by the standard and range of food and drink initiatives across Scotland,” said Mairi Gougeon, Scotland’s Rural Affairs Minister as she announced the funding awards on a visit to I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger in Edinburgh “Innovative projects like these not

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only help local economies grow, they also promote the importance of locally produced food and drink and the environmental benefits of sourcing produce close to home. “This fund helps collaborative groups such as Fine Cheesemakers of Scotland

create new opportunities for small businesses and producers and promotes Scotland’s worldleading food and drink sector.” Over the last two years the fund has awarded £355,327 to 78 different projects all around Scotland.


Food & Beverage - Celebrating Scottish produce

Photo by Stewart Cunningham

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Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

F

iona Holland is a journalist and long-time gin lover, collecting and sampling unusual and uncommon

gins for more than 20 years. Recently, her job amassing the juniper-laced spirit has become significantly easier with the

explosion of craft distilleries in Scotland. It’s difficult to keep up with them all, but you can be assured she’ll try her best…

Keeping those bees busy - the north-east’s heather bounty Vesperis Pictish Gin and Vesperis Orange Old Tom Blackford Distillery Nr Inverurie, Aberdeenshire 40 and 37.5 per cent ABV

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L

et’s face it, Scotland does not have a shortage of heather and it is one of those plants which we often associate with autumnal purple hills, glowing in the vanishing sun.

An image straight from the canvas of an atmospheric Victorian painting – perhaps with a highland cow and some mist thrown in for good measure. In this sustainable world, where


Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

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Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

everything from clothing to packaging, furniture to food is forensically picked over (quite rightly) to ensure it treads as softly as possible on our vulnerable earth, heather from right outside your door, combined with fresh local spring water surely must tick these boxes. I’m not sure at all, whether Neil

Neil and Katie Sime ŠThe Gin Cooperative

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For, as you will have gathered, Ling heather and the sumptuous honey it produces are the key botanicals in Blackford Craft Distillery’s Vesperis Pictish Gin,

Neil and Katie Sime ©The Gin Cooperative

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Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

and Katie Sime had this level of sustainability on their minds when they created their Vesperis stable of spirits in 2017, but it certainly doesn’t do them any harm now.


Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

Blackford Craft Distillery ŠThe Gin Cooperative

which tips a nod to the ancient mead production in the area by the afore-mentioned ancestors at its site in Rothienorman near Inverurie. Now, honey is not actually that unusual as an addition to quite a number of Scottish gins, and one does pretty much know exactly what it is going to do to the flavour – but cut through it with some apple and a strong juniper lead and it gains an identity of its own. On the nose, I found this gin enticing. Produced in small batches, that heather blossom, heather honey, apple zestiness and the punch of juniper created a complex floral burst with pine overtones and a citrus follow. Heather flowers and apples from the Blackford orchard used in the gin and the moorland where the heather is hand picked.

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It is very definitely a classic dry gin, despite its reliance on some quite sweet flavourings and when


Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

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Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland

The still room ©The Gin Cooperative

tasted neat, it provided a velvety smoothness on the tongue mixed with a herby nectar note. Nicely balanced, nothing overpowers in this spirit, and it is actually quite light – though, being 40 per cent ABV, it is at the lower alcohol end of many of the craft gins we have now become used to. With tonic added, and a tiny sliver of lime – this time I used Cushiedoos’ premium tonic from Edinburgh – it becomes relaxing and refreshing. I did this tasting at the height of Storm Dennis, but what the gin left me with was overtones of a summer’s day sitting in the sun, thanks to its floral array. New to the Vesperis brand, is its Orange Old Tom Gin at 37.5 per cent, which will be released this spring, so my early sample really is hot off the press.

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Those who have previously followed this column, will know that I’m not necessarily mad for some Old Tom gins, really because of its explicit sweetness. But, I take all of these as they come and enjoy each for its own flavour, regardless of the gin moniker. In the case of this one, it says orange on the label and it delivers what it promises on the nose – but there’s also a little more, with a subtle spiciness, which helps it along. Take a sip and the sweetness is certainly what first grabs one, but there is also a mild clove after taste, which I wasn’t expecting – and rolling it in your mouth is perhaps a little like sucking your favourite boiled sweet. Yes, there is a soupcon of juniper there, but overall it seems to lack a bit of body and enduring taste, and I’m left feeling a little short-changed. The 37.5 per cent alcohol, is quite

light, though, and not everyone likes a punchy drink, so I will mitigate the above sentiments by acknowledging its perhaps broader appeal. Again with Cushiedoos added, though, something ginny seems to have happened. Don’t get me wrong, this still has a sweetness to it, but the juniper has suddenly popped up stronger than in some Old Toms and it has transformed the cocktail into an eminently suppable, faintly spicy, zingy mixture with a hint of rosemary. Who’d have though it? All in all, both of these spirits have surprised me, the first for skilfully blending the floral blossom, sweet honey, the tricky acidity in apples and earthy juniper into a balanced and very drinkable mix. And the second, for making me actually notice more than a hint of juniper in an Old Tom, which was much appreciated.


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Food & Beverage - Gintelligence - with Fiona Holland ŠThe Gin Cooperative


Environment - Beacon of conservation Photo © Trees for Life Dundreggan, Glenmoriston

Beacon of conservation

by Paul Watson

A

£2million pound rewilding centre, which will encourage people to explore stunning landscapes, discover Gaelic culture, and learn about unique wildlife, is to be created near Loch Ness. The groundbreaking centre will be at Dundreggan, home to the

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Photo © Mark Hamblin, scotlandbigpicture.com Wood ants, Scottish Highlands


Environment - Beacon of conservation Photo Š Alex Baxter, Trees for Life Clay squirrel making at Dundreggan

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Environment - Beacon of conservation

charity Trees for Life, 10,000-acre estate in Glenmoriston. It is predicted that more than 50,000 visitors a year will be attracted to the centre between Loch Ness and Skye where they can find out more about the region’s unique wildlife including golden eagles, pine martens, red squirrels and wood ants.

Photo Š Mark Hamblin, scotlandbigpicture.com Red squirrel, Scottish Highlands

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Environment - Beacon of conservation

“Dundreggan Rewilding Centre will showcase how rewilding and nature can give people amazing experiences, create jobs and really benefit local communities. It will celebrate one of the Highlands’ greatest assets – the wild landscapes and unique wildlife being returned through rewilding,” said Steve Micklewright, Trees for Life’s Chief Executive.


Environment - Beacon of conservation

“Dundreggan has become a beacon of how to rewild a landscape. With this centre, it will become a beacon for rewilding people too.” An all-weather visitor centre,

Photo © Alex Baxter, Trees for Life Family fun at Dundreggan

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Environment - Beacon of conservation

café and events space will act as the gateway to fully accessible trails, child-friendly forest experiences and more adventurous walks. These will enable families and people with specific needs to get out into wild landscapes and get involved in rewilding.


Environment - Beacon of conservation

Creation of centre has been made possible with more than £2 million of support from The Natural and Cultural Heritage Fund led by Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH), The National Lottery Heritage Fund and other funding. “A key priority for SNH is to help ensure tourism and other sectors benefit from, and invest in, Scotland’s highquality environment. Nature and culture are closely linked in the Highlands and Islands, and in many places they are central to the local economy, maintaining rural populations, jobs and skills,” said Francesca Osowska, SNH Chief Executive.

The core of the centre will include displays and interpretation in English and Gaelic, a café, classrooms, Gaelic Resource Centre and events space. Outdoor facilities will include fully accessible trails, children’s forest experience area and more challenging trails. The centre will provide events and experiences for visitors to the area, and groups with specific needs – such as those with physical or learning disabilities, families, schools and other groups. At Dundreggan, Trees for Life is protecting and expanding globally important fragments of Scotland’s ancient Caledonian Forest. The estate is home to over 4,000 plant and animal species – including several never recorded in the UK before or once feared extinct in Scotland.

Photo © Mark Hamblin, scotlandbigpicture.com Pine marten, Scottish Highlands

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Environment - Beacon of conservation

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Environment - Battle of the bogs Photo Melissa Shaw Bog Squad volunteers

by Helen Lloyd

W

Battle of the bogs

ildlife charity Butterfly Conservation celebrates six years of the incredibly successful ‘Bog Squad’ initiative this March. Since being launched in 2014 a squad of almost 300 volunteers, established and managed by Butterfly Conservation Scotland,

has carried out rehabilitation works on hundreds of acres of damaged peat bogs across the Scottish Lowlands in the war against climate change.

Scotland’s bogs are vast stores of carbon laid down by slowly decaying vegetation in wet, acidic conditions over thousands of years. Unfortunately, many of Scotland’s bogs have been damaged by attempts at

drainage and burning, causing them to become net carbon emitters. Scottish peat bogs are also key wildlife habitats providing homes for species such as the bog specialist Large Heath butterfly, which has declined in range across the UK by over 50 per cent since 1976. Other increasingly rare butterflies such as the Small Pearl-bordered

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Environment - Battle of the bogs

Fritillary and Green Hairstreak benefit from lowland bog habitat too. Over the last six years Bog Squad volunteers have been putting in huge efforts to save the peatlands and their habitats. Restoration work has focussed on blocking old drainage

Photo Sharp Photography CC BY-SA 4.0 Small pearl-bordered fritillary

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Funded by the SNH-led Peatland ACTION project, the Bog Squad have carried out work at 26 bogs across Scotland with 330 hectares of bog improved.

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Environment - Battle of the bogs

ditches and removing watersapping invasive scrub, allowing Sphagnum mosses, the driving force behind peat formation, to flourish again.


Environment - Battle of the bogs

“Lowland bogs are such wonderfully rich places for wildlife. Added to that their potential value in battling climate change makes restoring them a real win-win both for wildlife and people,” said David Hill, Bog Squad spokesperson. “Butterfly Conservation Scotland warmly welcomes the Scottish government’s announcement in the budget that peatland restoration measures will receive

Photo by Sharp Photography CC BY-SA 4.0 Green hairstreak

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Environment - Battle of the bogs

£20m next year, up by £6m. We are particularly pleased that the funding will continue for at least 10 years, allowing peatland restoration techniques to be refined, and for businesses engaged in restoration to acquire the right machinery and train their staff. This will be a significant improvement in our ability to conserve these areas which are so valuable for wildlife, for purifying water, and for locking up carbon.�


Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

Photo by HWDT Common dolphin, Hebrides

Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

by Paul Watson

T

he waters around the west coast of Scotland are globally important habitats for whales, dolphins and porpoises and even endangered basking sharks but more year-round information is needed for their protection.

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Last year volunteers from across the UK and around the world flocked to Scotland to take part in a series of research expeditions organised by the Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Trust monitoring marine mammals and basking sharks in the Hebrides. For the first time, the conservation charity carried

out marine surveys from its specialised research yacht Silurian during the winter months – with crucial data collected every month of the year about the presence and behaviour of some of the country’s most spectacular marine wildlife. “Our new winter surveys and the contribution of our wonderful volunteers offer us the


Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

Photo HWDT Bowriding common dolphin

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Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

opportunity to study the yearround presence and distribution of some remarkable species for the first time,” said Becky Dudley, Marine Biodiversity Officer at the Hebridean Whale

Photo HWDT Volunteers on board Silurian

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and Dolphin Trust. “Our established summer expeditions, when most species are present in Hebridean waters, remain vital. But embarking on


porpoise changes between summer and winter.� As well as increasing understanding of cetacean and basking shark behaviour, this

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Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

year-round surveys will shed new light on marine wildlife, and help us answer questions such as whether minke whales are present in the Hebrides all year, and if distribution of harbour


Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

Photo HWDT White-beaked

groundbreaking research helps detect trends and changes in the marine environment – including increases in underwater noise pollution and emerging threats like entanglement. All of this scientific evidence can then be used to inform action to protect marine wildlife. In 2019, Silurian covered over 5,000 nautical miles during 23 research expeditions – stretching from as far north as Cape Wrath, south to Islay and Jura, and as far west as the Flannan Isles. The expeditions depend on paying volunteers, who work as citizen scientists alongside researchers. Last year saw a 24 per cent increase in the number of these volunteers, with more than 120 individuals notching up over 700 hours of surveying. They helped record more than 1,200 sightings of over 3,300 individual animals, including 2,740 individual cetaceans, 589

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seals and 40 basking sharks. Already in this first year of year-round surveys, the team recorded four species of cetacean – common dolphins, harbour porpoise, killer whales and minke whales – in the winter months. These sightings add to a growing body of evidence that the Hebrides is an important area for certain species year-round. In total, nine marine mammal species were recorded in 2019 – the others being bottlenose dolphin, common seal, grey seal, Risso’s dolphin and whitebeaked dolphin. “The Trust’s surveys are among my most memorable experiences. It’s an amazing feeling to know this work could help secure the future of these remarkable marine animals. I was part of a great team, which recorded sightings, assessed human impacts on wildlife such as marine debris,

monitored sounds with an underwater microphone, and identified individual cetaceans through photography. We also had chance to explore some of Britain’s most remote and beautiful places,” said Bruce Crawford, a volunteer who has joined the Trust onboard Silurian during both summer and winter surveys. Highlights during 2019 included two exciting encounters with killer whales. One was with Busta, a well-known male from a group called the Northern Isles Community, mainly seen around Orkney, Shetland and Scotland’s north coast. The other, off Ardnamurchan, was with males John Coe and Aquarius – part of a pod known as The West Coast Community, which is most often seen in the Hebrides and is at imminent risk of extinction. The research expeditions are part-funded by Scottish Natural


Photo by HWDT Volunteers on board Silurian

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Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

Photo HWDT Volunteers on the summer isles


Environment - Volunteers flock to protect Scotland’s whales and dolphins

Photo by HWDT Silurian

Heritage and since 2003, Silurian has travelled over 120,000 kilometers – equivalent to almost three circumnavigations of the world. The research has advanced understanding of resident and migratory species,

Photo by HWDT Killer Whale John Coe

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with key findings including that the Hebrides is one of Europe’s most important areas for harbour porpoise. Volunteers can join Silurian’s research expeditions this year for

trips lasting one or two weeks. Anyone can take part, with some special trips for 16 to 17 year olds. Participation costs cover boat expenses, accommodation, training, food, and support the charity’s research.


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Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion

Blending history and fashion

by Helen Lloyd

W

ith winter hardly over for this year Scottish fashion designers Johnstons of Elgin already have their eye on the next cold snap and unveiled their Autumn Winter collection for 2020/2021.

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The North-east of Scotland based company has embraced its strengths for the coming year and is leading the way in Cashmere and textile innovation. Looking back to go forward this season, Creative Director Alan Scott took inspiration from landscapes around the globe

including the Scottish Highlands, South American skylines and icecapped Mongolian mountains. He also looked at re-imagining long-established weaving techniques, bringing them back to life alongside traditional fair isle jacquard prints. With three years of development


Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion Alan Scott Creative Director Johnstons of Elgin

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Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion and investment going into the new collection, 21 womenswear and nine menswear looks were showcased across knitwear, outerwear and accessories at a special showing in the historical

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Grade II listed surroundings of London’s iconic Serpentine Gallery. The collection explores the origins of fine fibres and their roots, using

bold and authentic patterns fused with a colour palette of traditional colours against China Blue, IceWater Aqua, Amber, Harissa, Lotus Pink and rich Gold.


Scott has created a unique collection where each piece reflects the brands historic journey throughout the years, with his modern designs creating a juxtaposition against traditional techniques, showcasing a new level of innovation in Cashmere and Merino Wool tailoring and knitwear. Additionally, the expanding Athluxe and travel pieces feature minimalist detailing, clean lines and luxury silhouettes in new fibres, which lift classic styles to offer an uncomplicated and

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Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion

Hero pieces to highlight throughout the new collection include the Reversible Mongolian Kimono Jacket, a modern twist of a classic, which was presented alongside the Red Tweed Check Trench Coat, Mongolian knitwear inspired Kilim Jacquard Cardigan, and the striking Check Reversible Car Coat in Tweed Check and Olive Ventile.


Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion sophisticated look. With craftsmanship, technical innovation, fibre sourcing and sustainability at the heart of the brand, the collection reflects

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the home of their Cashmere and VicĹŤna fibres, looking at the textures and textile patterns of Scotland, Mongolia and Peru. “This collection really completes

the overall architecture of The Johnstons of Elgin brand, which has been in the planning process for a number of years. For past seasons, we have worked to build up the brand infrastructure, and


Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion

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Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion by investing in new technology it has allowed us to create pieces that both reflect our heritage and look forward to the future in terms of technical fabric and garment

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manufacturing. This has allowed us to become more relevant, real and accessible as a brand,” said Alan Scott.

“For Autumn Winter 20, the collection is all about reflecting on our history and global sourcing and using this as a starting point to look to the future. Using 3D


Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion

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Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion seamless technology has allowed us to both experiment and elevate quality throughout the entire collection. We have also tried to keep hand crafted skills alive

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and interweave them alongside new technology, to create pieces that are completely innovative. A pivotal collection for us, it has continued our new positioning; as

an all year-round brand – offering a trans-seasonal approach to cashmere that is innovative confident and unique�.


Shop Scotland - Blending history and fashion

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Supernatural - The White Wife of Unst

Strange tales from Scotland’s thin places... by Thomas MacCalman Morton

Photo Tom Pennington / Muness Castle, Unst / CC BY-SA 2.0 Muness Castle,Unst

The White Wife of Unst

T

he island of Unst is not just the most northerly in the Shetland Isles, and therefore Scotland, but it is also one of the most...I

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was going to say haunted. But perhaps it’s better to say, as one local historian told me, that it’s a place where the barriers between the past and the present, this life

and the afterlife, the physical and the spiritual, are exceptionally thin. Scotland is full of thin places.


https://anchor.fm/tom-morton4/episodes/Strange-Tales-from-Scotlands-thin-Places--Episode-One-The-White-Wife-eb5hji

Listen here If Shetland is remote, Unst can seem unearthly. Beyond the beyond. Far to the north; a place where there is little darkness in the summer or light in the winter. It is full of unexcavated tombs, lost churches, burial chambers, and the sites of half-forgotten battles. It was where the vikings first landed on their movement west, where Celtic monks came before their dangerous voyages to Scandinavia could begin. And stories. Hundreds of stories. I could tell you about Madge Coutts the witch. The Death bird of Colvadale. The blood soaked sacred earth of Swinna Ness. And perhaps someday I will. But instead, this is something I heard first hand from a man called Steven Spence, a renowned fiddle player. And I can vouch for the terror that can lurk in the winter darkness of Scotland’s northernmost outpost. In the land of the White Wife. I first encountered the White Wife in liquid form. There is a delicious beer, once brewed in Unst, called

Location of Unst

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Supernatural - The White Wife of Unst

Photo by Mike Pennington CC BY-SA 2.0 Loch of Watlee - haunted by the White Wife


Supernatural - The White Wife of Unst

White Wife, after the island’s most famous, most often encountered ghost. And Steven Spence, who worked at the Valhalla Brewery, wrote a fiddle

tune to celebrate its launch. He has met the White Wife. One dark January night two decades ago, Steven was driving

Photo by Frank D. Bardgett CC BY-SA 3.0 Framgord Chapel, Sandiwck, Unst

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his van from Baltasound to Uyeasound. It was 9 o’clock in the evening, and he was coming down the Watlee Brae, near the Watlee Burn, where, perhaps not


Suddenly Steven glimpsed from

the corner of his eye what he thought was a shaft of moonlight glittering on the passenger side of his van. And he noticed a terrible, foul smell. But that night there

was no moon. And his van was clean as a newly valeted vehicle could be. He looked around. And sitting

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Supernatural - The White Wife of Unst

incidentally, a travelling merchant was murdered several hundred years ago.


Supernatural - The White Wife of Unst Photo © Mike Pennington cc-by-sa/2.0 Statue of the White Wife

in the passenger seat was an old woman. What he noticed, immediately, he told me, was her teeth, which were rotten. That was where the smell was coming from. He says the sight gave him, as they say in Shetland, a braa gluff, or a terrible fright. He had to steer the van around a bend in the road, so looked ahead for a moment, and when he turned around again...the White Wife had gone. Steven says that afterwards he was a bit nervous about driving near the Watlee Loch, but he soon got over it, wishing that the White Wife would once again appear to him. He’d like to hear her story, he says. But she has never again made an appearance to Steven. Maybe, he jokes, she didn’t like him. Several other people have met the wife, always in the same way, appearing as a passenger in the front seat of a car, driven by a

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single young man, always near the Watlee Bridge. Grotesque, yellow, foul smelling teeth are commonly reported. These sightings continue today, and when I worked for a time in Unst, staying there overnight occasionally, I would often pass that bridge. Someone, as a joke, had painted a stone pillar next to it with a white face. The first time I saw that reflected in my headlights I nearly jumped out of my skin. But I looked at the passenger seat of my car, and there was nobody there. Besides, I am no longer young. Nor am I single. So who was the White Wife? No-one appears to know. But one suggestion that she was somehow looking for her son, sent me back to the older stories about Unst, and the one about that merchant, or pedlar who was murdered and thrown into the burn of Heljabrun. which flows into the Loch of Watlee. Ever since that Loch and the burn itself have been reputed to

possess healing powers, due to being seasoned with the dead man’s remains. If you throw white money - silver - or three stones into the water you would be healed if you then drank the water. Heljaburn, after all means the burn of health. An old woman looking for her son. Could the White Wife be the spirit of that ancient dead pedlar’s mother, eternally checking for any young single man travelling the road he trod, fatally, so long ago? If you’re single, male and youthful, do you have the courage to come to Shetland, to Unst, and find out for yourself? Oh, and she has a preference for red cars and vans, apparently. Red. the colour of blood. How did that ancient pedlar die? Murdered, you can imagine that his blood flowed red in the burn of Heljabrun, down into the Loch of Watlee. In Unst, that thinnest of thin places.


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Destination - Scotland

Destination P Scotland

lan your trip to the most beautiful country in the world with our directory of places to stay, eat, visit and enjoy.

Rokeby Manor

Invergarry, Highlands Situated on the edge of the Highland Village of Invergarry Rokeby Manor is the epitome of a late Georgian-early Victorian country house.

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This former country house, as featured in issue 32 of Scotland Correspondent, has been turned into a romantic retreat surrounded by landscaped gardens and natural woodland.


Destination - Scotland

Royal Scots Club Edinburgh

More personal than a hotel the Royal Scots Club offers a rare combination of all the charm of a country house with the added cosy atmosphere of a private members’ club in the heart of Scotland’s historic capital of Edinburgh. Founded in 1919 as a living memorial to those who fell in The Great War the club is situated in one of Edinburgh’s finest Georgian streets and is open for bed and breakfast, meetings and events, functions and private dining. Featured in issue 22 of Scotland Correspondent.

Meldrum House

Oldmeldrum, Aberdeenshire More than 800 years of history are wrapped up in this unique boutique country house hotel nestled in the heart of Aberdeenshire’s tranquil countryside. Complete with its own golf course the 240-acre estate and 13th century baronial mansion is the epitome of luxury. As featured in issue 27 of Scotland Correspondent. Meldrum House provides a truly exceptional experience and is an ideal base from which to explore the rich and colourful north east corner of Scotland.

Chester Residence Edinburgh

A luxurious bolthole in central Edinburgh with an expanse of space and all the perks of a grand hotel as featured in issue 21 of Scotland Correspondent. Behind the facades of gracious, listed Georgian townhouses in Edinburgh’s New Town these 5-star apartments are spacious and packed with luxury features, including a top of the range kitchen, a heavenly bathroom or two and sumptuously grand living rooms. 9 Rothesay Place (Main Reception), Edinburgh, EH3 7SL. Tel: +44 (0) 131 226 2075 enquiries@chester-residence.com www.chester-residence.com

Embo House Sutherland

Luxury exclusive self-catering accommodation in a Grad-A listed Georgian mansion overlooking the Dornoch Firth. As featured in issue 24 of Scotland Correspondent. Embo House is steeped in history. This former ancestral castle of Clan Gordon with its 8-spacious bedrooms provides contemporary and luxurious accommodation for large family groups, golfers or even weddings. Embo House, Dornoch, Sutherland. IV25 3PP Tel: 01738 451610 https://www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk

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Destination - Scotland Gleddoch Hotel

Carnoustie Golf Hotel

An independently owned hotel resort overlooking the Clyde Estuary with 75 bedrooms, an 18 hole championship golf course, an elegant banqueting room and a luxury Imperia Spa.

Carnoustie Golf Hotel offers an extensive collection of facilities, including 75 luxury en-suite bedrooms and 10 suites with amazing views over the Championship course, the sea and the local town of Carnoustie. Featured in issue 16 of Scotland Correspondent.

Glasgow

One of the most prestigious, luxury hotels in the Glasgow area just 10 minutes from the airport featured in issue 13 of Scotland Correspondent.

Isle of Eriska Hotel, Spa & Island Benderloch, Oban

Located on the west coast of Scotland on a private 300 acre island with gorgeous views overlooking Loch Linnhe and the dramatic Morvern mountains beyond. Featured in issue 3 of Scotland Correspondent. The hotel offers a variety of accommodation with 16 bedrooms in the main house, five spa suites in the gardens with private hot tub, two garden cottages with two bedrooms each which are ideal for families and six hilltop reserves overlooking Loch Linnhe with private hot tub and balconies.

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Carnoustie

Mercure Hotel inverness Inverness

Featured in issue 15 of Scotland Correspondent. This stylish Inverness hotel has been refurbished throughout, blending traditional Highland hospitality with supreme comfort in the finest waterside hotel Inverness has to offer.


Luss, Loch Lomond

Destination - Scotland

Lodge on Loch Lomond

Portavadie

Loch Fyne, Argyll

The Lodge on Loch Lomond Hotel, on the beachfront at Luss near Glasgow, is the perfect place to relax overlooking Scotland’s favourite loch.

Sitting on the shores of Loch Fyne on Scotland’s west coast, Portavadie is the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life and unwind amid glorious scenery.

As featured in issue 5 of Scotland Correspondent. The 48-bedroom hotel, complete with a range of conference and banqueting facilities for up to 200 guests and leisure facilities, enjoys an intimate, warm and charming atmosphere. The awardwinning Colquhoun’s Restaurant and Lounge are the perfect place to relax and unwind and watch the changing landscape of the loch.

As featured in issue 2 of Scotland Correspondent. The resort offers world-class marina facilities, a range of holiday accommodation, restaurants and bars, beauty and wellbeing treatments, shopping and event spaces. The spa and leisure experience provides an exceptional way to enjoy the views over Loch Fyne at any time of year, making Portavadie the destination of choice for all occasions.

Trump Turnberry

Dundas Castle

Trump Turnberry is an iconic landmark on the spectacular Ayrshire coast providing warm Scottish hospitality.

Dundas Castle is a most spectacular venue for any event. This authentic Scottish Castle has been transformed into a 5-star ‘Exclusive Use’ venue with 17 bedrooms. As featured in issue 13 of Scotland Correspondent. Parts of the castle date back to 1416 and has belonged to the Stewart-Clark family since the late 1800s.

Turnberry, Ayrshire

As featured in issue 7 of Scotland Correspondent. It offers a range of exceptional venues ideal for meetings, events and weddings. Enjoy the fresh Scottish air while enjoying the wonderful scenery, exceptional dining options, indulgent spa treatments, outdoor activities and championship golf.

Edinburgh

Enjoy all the amenities of the finest hotels but with the exclusivity of staying in your own castle.

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Destination - Scotland George Hotel

Inveraray, Argyll Imagine relaxing by an open peat fire, sipping a single-malt whisky after a sumptuous meal before retiring to a luxury bed in a 247-year-old hotel by the side of a spectacular Scottish loch. As featured in issue 11 of Scotland Correspondent. Each of the George’s 17 rooms have been beautifully decorated and many boast a super kingsize bed, jacuzzi bath and even a real open log and coal fire to add an extra layer of romantic cosiness.

Glamis House Glamis, Angus

Built in 1798 Glamis House is a stunning, traditional home with an impressive history, as featured in issue 19 of Scotland Correspondent. The house is situated in the grounds of Glamis Castle. With room for up to 13 people to sleep the house is situated in a stunningly beautiful part of the country boasting superb beaches, great walking trails and renowned golf courses close by, including Carnoustie. Glamis House, Forfar, Angus Tel: 01738 451610 https://www.cottages-and-castles.co.uk

The Station Hotel

Glen Nevis Hostel

Situated in the heart of Scotland’s world renowned whisky country the Station Hotel in Rothes, as featured in issue 30 of Scotland Correspondent, provides the perfect blend of of history, tradition and modern luxury.

Visitors on a budget looking to spend time in one of the most spectacular areas of the Scottish Highlands can do so Glen Nevis Youth Hostel in Fort William, Lochaber.

Speyside

With 14 bedrooms, including five luxury suites, the four-star hotel is ideally placed to serve as a base for visitors interested in exploring the wellsignposted nearby whisky, golf and castle trails of Speyside.

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Fort William

As featured in issue 20 of Scotland Correspondent this jewell in the crown of Hostelling Scotland has recently been refurbished to provide a mix of private en-suite rooms and shared accommodation with all the comforts and modern conveniences of a home from home.


Destination - Scotland

The Chester Hotel Aberdeen

Trump International

Balmedie, Aberdeenshire MacLeod House & Lodge is a five-star luxury hotel located near Balmedie, Aberdeenshire at Trump International Championship Links Golf Course and award-winning five-star resort. As featured in issue 20 of Scotland Correspondent. This historic Scottish mansion and lodge, set amid mature woodland, provides sumptuous accommodation, exquisite dining and an intimate bar. Available for exclusive use, corporate events and weddings it has all the facilities and amenities to suit the modern, traveller.

Situated in the heart of Aberdeen’s historic west end The Chester Hotel, with its 50 luxurious bedrooms and suites, renowned restaurant and stylish lounge bar, is ideally placed for accessing some of the most exciting and challenging golf courses Scotland has to offer. As featured in issue 19 of Scotland Correspondent. It provides a perfect base to explore the north-east with its abundance of castles, whisky distilleries and breath-taking scenery. 59-63 Queen’s Road Aberdeen, AB15 4YP. T: 01224 327777 Reservations@chester-hotel.com www.chester-hotel.com

Fingal

Edinburgh The former Northern Lighthouse Board (NLB) tender, MV Fingal, is Scotland’s first floating hotel, complete with Presidential suit - as featured in issue 31 of Scotland Correspondent. Now berthed permanently at the Prince of Wales Dock in the historic Port of Leith, it is a unique addition to Edinburgh’s booming hotel scene. Developed by The Royal Yacht Britannia each of Fingal’s 23 luxury cabins are each named after Stevenson lighthouses, inspired by her rich maritime heritage.

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What’s On - Date for your diary

Date 4 ur diary

Scotland

2-5 March The Road to Bannockburn Edinburgh Castle Meet one of Robert the Bruce’s men who served under the command of Thomas Randolph during the capture of the Castle in 1314. Learn about the medieval weapons and tactics of a Scottish foot soldier. Included in admission price. https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit-a-place/ whats-on/event/?eventId=4aff61ae-a2b3-4ccab4c3-a7d600ec8cef 4-8 March StAnza St Andrews, Fife Scotland’s Poetry Festival is recognised as one of the leading poetry festivals in the UK and Europe, StAnza has over the years featured a strong list of contemporary poets from within Scotland and also from across the UK and the rest of the world. www.stanzapoetry.org 7 March Inverness Fiddlers’ Rally Empire Theatre, Eden Court, Inverness The Inverness Fiddlers will be joined by fellow players from all over Scotland plus special guests for the event and in 2020 we are delighted to announce that the acclaimed Trio of McKerron, Brechin and O’Headhra will be performing. https://www.invernessfiddlers.org/index. asp?pageid=294186 12-29 March Glasgow International Comedy Festival Various venues across Glasgow Now in its 18th year the biggest comedy festival in Europe is back with a star-studded line-up. www.glasgowcomedyfestival.com 12-29 March Aye Write Festival Various venues across Glasgow Aye Write is back for 2020 with fiction, politics, poetry, crime & thriller, memoir, history, music and more with a stellar line-up of authors including Maggie O’ Farrell, Val McDermid, Joanna Trollope, Bake-Off judge Prue Leith, Strictly’s Anton Du Beke, Michelin starred chef Tom Kerridge, actor and singer John Partridge, actor and comedian Greg McHugh as well as a free celebration of the life and work of

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If you have a future event you would like included in our diary please email details to news@scotlandcorrespondent.com artist and author Alasdair Gray. www.ayewrite.com 20-22 March Niel Gow Scottish Fiddle Festival Dunkeld & Birnam, Perthshire Celebrate the life and works of Perthshire’s fiddle legend. https://www.niel-gow.co.uk 27-29 March Hawick Reivers Festival Hawick, Borders. Step back in time to the mid sixteenth century when the Borderlands were an area of constant feuding – when loyalties were to kinship rather than king and country and when “Reiving” was a means of survival. Through music, drama and re-enactments experience what life was really like for the men and women in the Border Marches www.hawickreivers.com 27-29 March March into Pitlochry Various venues, Pitlochry, Perthshire The biggest little music festival in Scotland returns for 2020. https://www.marchintopitlochry.co.uk/#home 27-29 March Scottish Golf Show SECC, Glasgow Start the golf season in style. https://www.thescottishgolfshow.co.uk

Australia

7 March Liverpool Plains Military Tattoo Quirindi’s Longfield Park, Quirindi, NSW The 2020 event will be the 4th Annual Military Tattoo to held in Quirindi on the Liverpool Plains of NSW. This year there is a slight name change to encompass the vast and expansive region that this wonderful event is held in. The event aims to showcase military bands in both a competition and exhibition format, and pays homage to the Edinburgh Military Tattoo. https://www.liverpoolplainsmilitarytattoo.com.au 14-15 March Ozlander Fan Gathering 2020 Melbourne, VIC Australia Ozlander is the first Outlander event of its kind in Australia and is sure to deliver an unforgettable


15 March Sydney Highland Gathering The Scots College, Bellevue Hill, Sydney, NSW Visitors are promised an exciting day of Pipe Band Competitions and Highland Dancing Competitions, Highland Dancing, traditional Scottish Highland games events including carrying the stones and toss the caber. There will be market stalls, selling Scottish goods and artisan products, Scottish food and general family fun events. https://www.transceltic.com/blog/australia-sydneyhighland-gathering-15-march-2020 15 March The Geelong Highland Gathering Osborne Park, Swinburne Street, North Geelong, VIC The 2020 Gathering will mark 163 years since the first Geelong Highland Gathering was held on New Years day 1858 and will be the 63rd anniversary of the modern era, which began in 1958. www.geelonghighlandgathering.org.au 17 March Melbourne Celtic Festival The Mission to Seafarers Victoria, 717 Flinders St., Melbourne, VIC Gather your clan and join us to celebrate all things Celtic on St Patrick’s Day. www.melbournecelticfestival.com.au 29 March Ringwood Highland Games JW Manson Reserve,Selkirk Ave, Wantirna, VIC A full day of Scottish fun with pipe bands, Scottish dancers, Clans, stalls and much more. www.ringwoodhighlandgames.org.au 29 March Swan Valley Highland Games Elmar’s in the Valley, Henley Brook, WA A great day for the whole family with heaps of stuff for kids and adults alike! Celebrate Scotland with heavy events, haggis, pipes and ale! www.elmars.com.au

Canada

21 March Winnipeg Scottish Festival University of Winnipeg, MB This is a free event with Scottish Vendors, Silent Auction Solo Piping and Drumming and Pipe Band Events https://www.facebook.com/ events/1277078322816614/

New Zealand

7-8 March Dramfest Christchurch Town Hall, Christchurch DramFest is New Zealand’s largest whisky education and tasting festival. This year’s event will be home to over 50 exhibitors representing distilleries, producers and independent bottlers from Scotland, Japan, Ireland and around the whisky world. www.dramfest.co.nz 13 March Pipe On In NZ Pipe Band Championships 2020 Queen’s Park, Invercargill Celebrate with some of the worlds best bands at the New Zealand Pipe Band Championships 2020. www.facebook.com/events/329868521068407/

USA

7 March 37th Southeast Florida Scottish Festival & Highland Games Plantation Park, 1100 S. Fig Tree Lane, Plantation, FL A great day out for all the family celebrating Scottish culture and heritage with a day full of activities & events for all ages www.sassf.org/Festival 7 March The Scotsman’s Ball XIII The Long Beach Grand, Long Beach, CA The Premier Annual Scottish Event of Southern California. http://scotsmansball.org 7-8 March The Phoenix Scottish Games Steele Indian School Park, 300 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, AZ Join the Caledonian Society of Arizona in celebrating the Phoenix Scottish Games 56th year! Enjoy food, fun, and entertainment while exploring the history, flavors and culture of Scotland www.phoenixscottishgames.com 14-15 March St. Augustine Celtic Music & Heritage Festival Francis Field, 29 W Castillo Dr. St Augustine, Florida. Find the Celt in you, in America’s Oldest celtic city at “The Finest Celtic music festival in the United States” www.celticstaugustine.com 14-15 March West Texas Celtic Fair

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What’s On - Date for your diary

experience where fans can get to know the cast (and each other) in a relaxed and intimate environment. www.facebook.com/ozlanderfangathering


What’s On - Date for your diary

Horseshoe Pavilion, Midland, TX Our event is open to everyone-we want to educate people to our Celtic culture, to meet our neighbors and to show our community what we are all about. It’s also an ethnic event, a big reunion for our Celtic family. www.westtexascelticfair.com 21-22 March 4th Annual Sherman Celtic Festival & Highland Games

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2190 Fallon Drive, Sherman, tx 75090 A great day out for all the family. www.shermancelticfest.com 28-29 March Hawaiian Scottish Festival & Highland Games Kapiolani Park, Honolulu, HI The Hawaiian Scottish Association is a gathering place for Hawaii locals and visitors with Scottish heritage or enthusiasm. www.hawaiianscottishassociation.org


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