Discover Scotland Issue 60 by Discover Scotland

Wonders of of Loch Arkaig

New chapter for historic book

A dram for Christmas

Poet’s Greek links celebrated

The wizard of Smoo Cave Issue 60

Highland retreat wins top award 1

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Abandoned boat on Loch Eil with Ben Nevis seen beyond Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland

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Travel

Monsters, buried treasure and Jacobite tales at Loch Arkaig

History

Historically important book returns to Scotland after almost 1,000 years

Sounds

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Surprise debut for Glasgow band in Christmas rom-com

Folklore

The dark legend of Smoo Cave

22 Initiative

Top athletes pay it forward with new charity

Food & Beverage

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Chef Gordon Howe dishes up a traditional festive treat with a twist

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Whisky

Tom Morton reveals his dram for Christmas

Events

Exhibition reveals poet Byron’s links with Greece

Antiques

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Roo Irvine on the appeal of antique decorations

History

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Burleigh Castle and its history of intrigue

Bookmarker

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Longlist announced for Highland Book Prize

Travel

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Lochside hideaway named as best in the country

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History

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Reimagining the past glory of a Pictish stronghold

1/156 Cover Photo/Back Photo The Cairngorm Reindeer Herd is the only free-ranging herd of reindeer found in the Cairngorm mountains Photo by Kenny Lam / VisitScotland

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Discover Scotland is an independent magazine published by Discover Scotland Ltd. The monthly digital title provides an international audience of readers with comprehensive coverage of modern day Scotland, its people, achievements, culture, history and customs. Every issue covers a variety of topics of interest to thousands of people every month, many of them visitors to Scotland or part of the great Scottish diaspora. The digital edition incorporates audio, video and text in a single platform designed for use on Apple, Android and Windows devices. The magazine is free to subscribe to and download. For more information on how to get a copy, subscribe or enquire about advertising please contact the relevant departments. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any claim made by advertisements in Discover Scotland magazine or on the Discover Scotland website. All information should be checked with the advertisers.

General Enquiries info@discoverscotlandmagazine.com

The content of the magazine does not necessarily represent the views of the publishers or imply any endorsement. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without prior agreement in writing from Discover Scotland Ltd.

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Travel

egends of Loch Arkaig

By Paul Watson

here are thousands of beautiful lochs in Scotland. Many have a fascinating history, others are shrouded in mystery and some have a little of both. Loch Arkaig in Lochaber is one such location. This 12 miles long, 300ft deep body of fresh water, scoured out of the rock by glacial

ice some 10,000 years ago, is surrounded by mountains, lined by Caledonian pine forest and immortalised in legend. It was here in 1746 that Jacobite gold, sent from France and Spain to finance Bonnie Prince Charlie’s efforts to restore the Stuart monarchy, was buried…and lost.

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When the Young Pretender, Prince Charles Edward Stuart, arrived in Scotland from France in 1745 to reclaim the thrones of Scotland and England he promised the clan chiefs who rallied to his standard that they would get help from France. However, while the French hesitated in sending troops to

back up the Jacobite army there was some financial assistance provided by Spain and the Pope. Spain had promised 400,000 gold pieces per month and managed to deliver the first instalment in 1745, only to see it stolen by Clan Mackay who were loyal to the Hanoverian King George.

Temperature Inversion over Loch Arkaig Photo by Graham Lewis CC BY 2.0

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Prince Charles Edward Stuart by William Mosman

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View northeast from Sgurr Thuilm Photo by Nigel Brown CC BY-SA 2.0

The next payment, around seven caskets of gold, didn’t reach Scotland until April 1746, just days after the Jacobites had been routed at Culloden. Once news of the defeat reached the crews of the delivery ships the gold was hurriedly unloaded and left on the shore of Loch nan Uamh With the Jacobite cause in tatters and the Highland army scattered

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to the winds the gold was taken to Loch Arkaig to be hidden from the Duke of Cumberland’s troops in readiness for another future rising. The secret hiding place of the gold was known to only a few leading Jacobite chiefs who used some of the money to help fleeing comrades escape the brutal reprisals inflicted by the Duke of Cumberland.

Archibald Cameron, the last Jacobite executed.

In 1753 Archibald Cameron of Lochiel, who acted as a doctor to Prince Charlie, was sent by the Prince from exile in France to Arkaig to try and find the buried money. Unfortunately he was betrayed by MacDonell of Glengarry and found guilty of treason. He was taken to Tower Hill in London where, on 7 June 1753, he was hanged, drawn and quartered. The last Jacobite to be officially executed for the rising. Over time the whereabouts of the gold was forgotten and legend claims that buried somewhere around the loch there is still a trove of treasure to be found. More than 100 years after the Jacobite rebellion some French gold coins were found buried in the woods but most of the cache remains undiscovered.

Alastair Ruadh MacDonnell who betrayed Archibald Cameron

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JH Harris, 3rd Earl of Malmesbury by JG Middleton

Such is the allure of the legend that author Nigel Tranter featured the lost gold in his book Gold for Prince Charlie. It also appears in Neil Munro’s Children of the Tempest and in The Fiery Cross, the fifth novel by Diana Gabaldon in her Outlander series. But, that is not the only mystery to surround the loch. According to legend it is also home to a mythical beast or water horse.

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In 1884 James Harris, 3rd Earl of Malmesbury, who was twice foreign minister during Queen Victoria’s reign, published his memoirs. The interesting, and often charming, accounts of his professional and personal life provide an insight to the political and cultural history of the time. But, in one section he describes how on 3rd October, 1857 while staying in the area he learned of the water horse.

Loch Arkaig Photo by Heather Eeles CC BY 3.0

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“My stalker and his boy gave me an account of a mysterious creature, which they say exists in Loch Arkaig, and which they call the Lake-Horse,” he wrote in his diary as he admitted he was now close to becoming a believer. “My stalker, John Stuart, has seen it twice, and both times at sunrise on a bright sunny day, when there was not a ripple on the water. The creature was basking on the surface; he only saw the head and hind quarters, proving that its back was hollow, which is not the shape of any fish or of a seal. Its head resembled that of a horse. “The Highlanders are very superstitious about this creature. They are convinced that there is never more than one in existence at the same time, and I believe they think it has something diabolical in its nature.” For those unlucky not to see the monster of Loch Arkaig there is plenty of other wildlife to wonder at, including Louis and Aila the loch’s resident Ospreys. At the east end of Loch Arkaig lies the tiny settlement of Achnacarry with its long associations with Clan Cameron.

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In the early 16th century Ewen Cameron, the 13th Chief of Clan Cameron built Tor Castle, on land seized from Clan Macintosh, which served as the seat of the Camerons until 1655 when the 17th Chief built Achnacarry Castle on a strategic position between Loch Arkaig and Loch Lochy. Unfortunately, Donald Cameron the 19th Chief known as The Gentle Lochiel was a Jacobite and following the defeat at Culloden was forced to take to the hills. On May 28, 1746, he watched helplessly as Hanoverian troops burned the castle to the ground. However, you can’t keep a good clan down and in 1802 a new Achnacarry Castle was built close to the original.

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Achnacarry Castle Photo by Keeshu CC BY-SA 3.0

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Commandos training at Achnacarry 1943 Photo IWM

In 1942, during the Second World War, Achnacarry became the training centre for the Commandos, a link that is maintained to this day in various ways. The house, and surrounding lands, were used for live firing exercises and some of the toughest military training in the world to create

an elite force that has become renowned around the world. About seven miles away from Achnacarry is the Commando Memorial by the side of the A82 north of Spean Bridge to commemorate all those who passed through the training school, especially those who paid the ultimate price.

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Commando Memorial at Spean Bridge Photo by DeFacto CC BY-SA 4.0

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On Loch Arkaig itself there are two small islands at the eastern end. The larger one, Eilean Loch Airceig, is the site of a ruined chapel dedicated to St Columba and was used as the burial ground for the Camerons of Locheil.

While Achnacarry Castle is closed to the public the Clan Cameron Museum, less than quarter of a mile from the house, is worth a visit as it contains lots of information on local legends, clan history and other artefacts.

Comando Memorial at sunset Photo by Gerry McCann

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History

It’s coming home! O

ne of Scotland’s oldest and most important surviving manuscripts is to be returned home on loan, almost 1,000 years after it was believed stolen by invading English soldiers during the Wars of Independence. The Book of Deer is a rare example of a pocket gospel book produced for private use rather than for church services. It contains the oldest surviving example of written Scots Gaelic in the world within its margins. Measuring just 154mm x 107mm the illustrated manuscript is believed to have been created more than 1,000 years ago and

was, until around the 12th or 13th century, owned by monks living in an early Pictish monastery at Old Deer in north-east Aberdeenshire. The monastery, founded by Saint Columba and his nephew Drostan in the 6th century, has long since disappeared although it’s believed to have been situated close to the remains of a nearby Cistercian Abbey, which was founded in 1219. The Abbey certainly owned some of the land mentioned in the book’s Gaelic texts. Now, for the first time in almost a millennia, the illuminated book of 86 folios written on vellum, is to return to the north-east of Scotland in 2022.

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The Book of Deer is coming home to Aberdeenshire Photo courtesy of University of Aberdeen

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The Gospel of Matthew with Gaelic script in the margins Photo Cambridge University Library

The community heritage group The Book of the Deer Project, based in Aden Country Park in Aberdeenshire, has secured £128,588 from the National Lottery Heritage Fund to bring the 10th century text back to the area where it is believed to have originated and to celebrate its return. It will be on loan from Cambridge University Library, where it has been since 1715, and will be exhibited at Aberdeen Art Gallery in summer 2022, during the Year of Scotland’s Stories. In addition to the Latin text, detailing the complete Gospel of

Portrait of Luke Cambridge University Library

John and portions of the Matthew, Mark and Luke Gospels, the Book of Deer contains annotations, written by several hands, in Scottish Gaelic in the margins. These passages are believed to be the oldest surviving example of written Scots Gaelic in the world. The Gaelic texts give an account of the monastery’s foundation and records details of land grants to the monastery. In addition to the text there are several illuminated folios, depicting images of the evangelists and others showing drawings of men and animals.

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Deer Abbey stands close to where the monastery is thought to have been Photo by Jane Gospel CC BY-SA 2.0

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Plans to celebrate the temporary return of the Book of Deer include a series of community cultural events to take place in Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire to celebrate the book and its heritage. Dr Jenny Downes, Exhibitions & Public Programming Manager at the University of Aberdeen, said: “We are delighted to be part of bringing this important historic and culturally significant manuscript back to the north-east. Artefacts like the Book of Deer are invaluable in shining a light on our past and how that shapes who we are today.” The programme will include a further archaeological dig at the Abbey of Deer in Aberdeenshire, thought to be the site of the early mediaeval monastery where the Book of Deer was annotated with Gaelic.

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Deer Abbey was built long after the Book of Deer was written but is known to have owned some of the land which once belonged to the monastery Photo by Deacon of Pndapetzim PD

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“This will allow us to make plans of the remains of the buildings that we know are under the ground in the field west of Deer Abbey,” said Ali Cameron of Cameron Archaeology Ltd in charge of the dig. “We know that we have an early mediaeval site but the layout of the buildings, the finds and the dating will help us determine whether it was the monastery where the Scots Gaelic was written in the margins of the Book of Deer, or another important Pictish site. Whatever happens we have discovered a very exciting site and our students and volunteers are ready to come along and help with this dig.” This community excavation will take place over 10 weeks in summer 2022, the longest excavation yet, hoping to find the Monastery of Deer following 11 years of searching. “Ours is a small corner of the world, but it is an important one. The return of the Book of Deer and the exhibition at Aberdeen Art Gallery, along with the community dig and cultural programme will allow us to celebrate the manuscript’s links with north east Scotland in a manner it deserves,” said Anne Simpson, chair of the Book of Deer Project, the central objective of which is to celebrate the book and its heritage in a modern context.

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The ruins of Deer Abbey are thought to lie close to where the Monastery used to be Photo by Bill Harrison CC BY-SA 2.0

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Outline of the Abbey Church close to where the Monastery of Deer once stood Photo by Bill Harrison CC BY-SA 2.0

The remains of Deer Abbey close to where the monastery, where the Book of Deer was kept, used to be. Photo by ED McIntosh CC BY-SA 3.0

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Dr. Jessica Gardner, Cambridge University Librarian, described The Book of Deer as being of supreme cultural importance to Scotland generally, and for the north-east of Scotland in particular. “This project has our strongest and warmest support,” she said.. “It offers an unparalleled opportunity to connect new audiences with heritage in an inspirational way that will leave a lasting legacy. “Cambridge University Library is one of the world’s greatest collections and sharing these collections with the widest possible audience underpins everything we do. For those who can’t get to see the Book of Deer in Scotland, every page is available to view in great detail, for free, on our Digital Library.”

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Sounds

A soundtrack to love Scottish style

Castle for Christmas is the latest Netflix holiday movie doing great things at the moment. Set in Scotland it has all the usual cliches you expect from a festive rom-com. It tells the story of a successful New York writer, played by Brooke Shields, who decides to visit the castle in Scotland where her grandfather used to be the groundsman. Once in Scotland she meets the owner, the cash-strapped Duke of Dunbar - a tiny fictitious village in Aberdeenshire not to be confused with the real-life coastal town in East Lothian - played by English actor Cary Elwes.

A scene from A Castle for Christmas Photo courtesy of Netflix

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Music to accompany reading Discover Scotland www.discoverscotlandmagazine.com 1: Admiral Fallow - Dragonfly 2: Randolph’s Leap - Moment Passed 3: Idlewild - In Remote Part/Scottish Fiction 4: Starsky and the Fox - Celtic Heart 5: Legendary Hearts - Cold Christmas 6: Alex Macdonald - Band Song 7: Deacon Blue - Riding on the Tide of Love 8: Hazey Janes - Meet on the Ledge 9: Michael Marra - Happed in Mist 10: James Dewar - Stumbledown Romancer 11: Frankie Miller - A Fool in Love 12: Annie Booth - Fallow Year 13: Aberfeldy - Young Forever 14: The Chair - The Scariest Room 15: Peter Nardini - Between the Clyde and Heaven

with Tom Morton

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When she discovers the castle is up for sale the rich American writer decides to buy it on a whim - queue the title of the movie - and has until Christmas to complete the purchase.

However, the real star of the movie is Scotland. It was filmed in Edinburgh, East Lothian and South Queensferry where Dalmeny House stands in for the castle of the title.

Without giving too much away she and the Duke start out at odds and end up in love. All together now: “Aawwww!” Or “Aaarrgh!” if you don’t appreciate fantasy romances that stretch credulity and feature some ‘interesting’ Scottish accents.

There is also a great supporting performance from the soundtrack which features the debut single of a top Glasgow band. Celtic Heart by Starsky & The Fox found its way into the movie almost by chance.

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Written by vocalist and lyricist Starsky, producer and guitarist Jamie Duffin, and bass player Scythe the up-tempo, feel good Celtic pop song was recorded in their studio during lockdown. One day while chatting with an online friend on Instagram, Starsky mentioned the song. He sent her a demo and it turned out she knew someone involved in the

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movie. Within 48 hours the Los Angeles-based production team got in touch to say they wanted to use it. The song evokes stirring images of the nation from Glen Coe and the wilds of Knoydart to the city landscapes of Glasgow and Edinburgh. It pulls at the heart strings - a love song for Scotland.

Alex Macdonald Photo Judy Laing Photography

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The song is featured in the latest edition of our Musical Discoveries podcast, presented by Tom Morton exclusively for Discover Scotland Magazine. Other tracks appearing in the show include performances from Admiral Fallow, Randolph’s Leap, Idlewild, Legendary Hearts, Deacon Blue, Hazey Janes, Michael Marra, James Dewar, Frankie Miller, Annie Booth, Aberfeldy, The Chair and Peter Nardini. There’s even a rousing pop song for a former moderator of the Free Church of Scotland.

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Alex Macdonald is a retired Free Church of Scotland Minister and accomplished guitar player, singer and songwriter. His new album, Hard as Nails, has just been released. All the songs, bar two, are original compositions by Alex. The exceptions include lyrics from two old poems. In this month’s Musical Discoveries Tom plays The Band Song, a fun, foot-tapping vocal trip around Scotland paying homage to a 40 year career in music and some talented musicians who he’s worked with over the years. It’s guaranteed to make you smile.

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Folklore

Folklore Scotland with… Graeme Johncock

moo Cave and The Wizard of Reay S

moo Cave in the far north of Scotland is now a popular stop on the North Coast 500. The vast caverns and underground rivers attract thousands of people but long ago, this was the last place anybody would want to find themselves. When this corner of the country was much more remote, something evil lurked in the darkness. Smoo Cave was home to the Wizard of Reay.

Mackay, this sorcerer had left Scotland for Italy, to study the dark arts under the Devil himself. Payment for these lessons was the soul of whoever was last to escape the demonic classroom. As the students prepared to leave, Donald saw that he was the unfortunate student at the back of the queue. Wise to his teacher’s plan, he shouted “De’il tak the hindmost” and slipped outside leaving only his shadow in the Devil’s grasp.

Originally known as Donald

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Looking in Smoo Cave Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Looking out Smoo Cave Photo by Graeme Johncock

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The Wizard of Reay knew that the rest of his life would be spent evading capture, so he needed to conduct his business somewhere remote and hidden. Operating from Smoo Cave, legends spread of a cruel figure with no shadow, terrorising the north of Scotland. He was said to chain people inside the cave entrance and let them drown as the water level rose. Eventually, word reached Donald’s old teacher. After another night of evil antics, the Wizard returned to Smoo Cave along with his faithful dog. His hound ran on into the chamber ahead like usual but with a piercing yelp, came bounding out into the open without a single hair on its body. Donald knew now that the Devil was waiting for him inside the darkness. It was time to face his fate, but the Wizard of Reay still had a few tricks up his sleeve. Dawn wasn’t far away and so Donald took his time preparing to confront his enemy. The Devil was enjoying gloating to his two witch companions about how nobody could escape his wrath. Donald was happy to keep him talking for as long as possible.

Smoo Cave from waterfall Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Before long, the first light of day started to pour into Smoo Cave and at the sound of a distant cockerel, the Devil and his companions were forced to flee. In their haste, they smashed through the ceiling of Smoo Cave creating three holes that are still evident today. The Devil wouldn’t give up that easily though, and now he knew where the Wizard was hiding. One day Donald found a small casket deep in the cave and pulling out the stopper, a tiny figure jumped out. It grew bigger and bigger until the enormous Devil boomed “Well are you impressed with my trick?”. Reay wasted no time in replying “Getting out is the easy part. I doubt you could fit back in there.” The Devil wouldn’t accept this kind of slight to his pride, so he quickly shrunk back down and squeezed inside. Donald just plugged the hole up and threw the casket into the river. The Wizard of Reay had saved his soul once again.

Smoo Cave ceiling hole Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Approaching Smoo Cave Photo by Graeme Johncock

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Smoo Cave Entrance. Photo by Graeme Johncock

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22 Initiative

alamity inspires charity A

project launched to raise funds for a Scottish sports champion paralysed in a freak accident is to be turned into a full time charity to help others. The 22 Initiative aims to promote safety in sport, especially among the young, by raising money to help clubs, individuals and organisations to prevent accidents and injuries. In September 2015 international motocross racer Sean Doherty, suffered life changing injuries when the wheel of his motorbike hit a tractor rut during a race in Clackmannanshire and sent him flying over the handlebars. Family, friends and complete

strangers rallied round with a fundraiser, - which was named in honour of Sean’s race number - to buy the popular sportsman a £12,000 specialist all-terrain wheelchair so he could continue to live as independently as possible. Since the accident and despite his injuries Sean has continued to coach emerging motocross champions while using his experiences to support others. Earlier this year the foundation was called upon to help bring home Scots mountain biker Darren Scott after he was seriously injured while competing in a world championship event in Switzerland.

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Sean Doherty (left) and Adolfo Arino (right) present Darren Scott (centre) with the money raised to help him after his accident in Switzerland

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Sean Doherty in action before his accident

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Sean (number 22) doing what he loved the most.

The 50-year-old suffered two broken ribs, injuries to his back and pancreas and internal bleeding who led to a clot forming in his chest. Within days of an appeal being launched the 22 Foundation managed to raise more than £20,000 to help bring Darren back to Scotland and aid his recovery. Now, both Sean and Darren are keen to see the organisation that helped them provide aid and assistance to others. They are backing plans to create the 22 Initiative, a registered charity to be launched in January 2022. “When I broke my back I went overnight from being an active sportsman to somebody in a wheelchair for the rest of my life

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getting help from the 22 initiative meant such a lot, much more than just the money that was raised,” said Sean. “The support I was given helped me keep in touch with friends I had known for decades, gave me a reason to look forward and took some of the stress out of the situation my family suddenly found itself in.” Motocross had been Sean’s life for more than 25 years. The 22 Initiative acted as a platform to keep friends he might otherwise have lost contact with informed as to what was happening. It raised money for a track chair so when he got out of hospital he could still attend meetings and has never missed a race.

Family and friends present Sean with details of the wheelchair that brought from the USA after his accident.

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“That was as important for my mental health as anything else,” said Sean who is now backing the 22 Initiative to help other people from minority sports who get injured. “Mainstream activities, like football and rugby, have a lot of financial backing but a lot of free sports are not so well supported by national agencies,” said Sean. “Safety is paramount but all the equipment in the world can’t stop a freak accident. I was wearing safety kit but it didn’t save me from breaking my back.” The 22 Initiative aims to be in a position to help people from minority sports if something bad happens and they suddenly find themselves in the middle of an acute crisis. It will also actively encourage safety and awareness in an attempt prevent injuries.

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Sean using his track wheelchair

“It meant so much to me to get help from people, many of them strangers, after I was injured in Switzerland. It’s time to try and give something back, to pay it forward and help others,” said Darren, who is a five time Scottish Vets Champion in motocross before switching to mountain bikes in 2015 and becoming 2016 Scottish Open Vets Champion, 2018 Scottish Series Vets Champion and 2019 European Masters Champion. “The 22 Initiative is keen to support safety in sport and, if necessary, help injured individuals who need specialist assistance,” said Darren “We really want to help people who get injured while taking part in activities, such as motocross, mountain biking, hill running, hiking, surfing, snowboarding, skiing and such like.” Mountain bike champion Darren Scott in action prior to his accident

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Food & Beverage

Chef in a kilt with… Gordon Howe

lootie Dumpling with Cranachan Cream W

hen it comes to enjoying a traditional Scottish dessert that has been served in family homes for centuries, there are a few to chose from. But, perhaps the two of the best known are Cranachan and Clootie Dumpling - two enormously delicious dishes but why chose? This Christmas I’ve combined them to create a Clootie Dumpling served with a dollop of smooth deliciously light cream based on the classic Cranachan dessert.

Cloot or Clootie comes from the Scots’ word for cloth and was certainly around in the mid 17th century with records going back as far as about 1650. How people realised they could wrap a dumpling in a cloth, commonly used was a pillowcase, and boil it for a number of hours in a pot of water on an open fire isn’t clear. However, when the dish is dried by the fire to form a delicious coloured crust it must have something that caught on as we’re still making it more than 370 year later.

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Photos by Gordon Howe

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In part, traditional methods of cooking this delicious pudding still remains although it’s now much more likely to be finished off in a modern oven. In my recipe I use a cloot and then a place it within a pillowcase in memory of my mother and grandmothers family tradition. A lighter and less rich alternative to Christmas pudding, the clootie dumpling is enjoyed all year round and was even an alternative to a wedding cake or birthday cake. The first recipe ever published was in Hannah Glasse’s cook book, ‘The Art of Cookery made Plain and Easy’ which was first published in 1747. Her recipe was for ‘ A Boiled Plumb Pudding’ and most of the ingredients are similar to this day, with only small changes handed down through the generations in various family recipes. My great grandmother, then my grandmother and my mother put little prizes inside the mixture, various little charms or trinkets. Similar to ones found inside luxury Christmas Crackers. She often stirred these into the dumpling mixture so everyone would get piece of fortune (or misfortune) inside their piece of clootie pudding.

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Coins meant wealth. A ring signified a marriage, a wishbone promised the recipient their heart’s desire, the male who got a button or the woman a thimble were allegedly destined to stay single. Old wives tales most would say, but they did hold some cloot (another Scots’ word meaning clout). This delicious warm, spiced moist pudding with molten fruit and fumes of Scotch whisky are my olfactory memories of Christmas that soon hit the spot as it lands on my tongue. Served with my smooth cool cranachan inspired cream this dessert combines two classic desserts with an abundance of textures, flavours, aromas and flavours. There are many alternative recipes for clootie dumpling and my recipe is based on decades of experience handed down through successive generations.

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Clootie Dumpling Prep 25-30 mins Cooking 4 hrs Serves 8-10

Ingredients Dry ingredients 500g plain (cake) flour 250g caster sugar 200g shredded beef suet 250g raisins 250g sultanas 3 tsp baking powder 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground all spice 1 tsp ground cinnamon 1/2 level tsp salt 1/3 tsp fresh ground nutmeg Wet ingredients 2 large eggs 100ml whole milk (full fat) 3 heaped tbsp dark treacle

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Method Bring a large pot of water (with lid) to the boil, with about three inches from the top, large enough to submerge the dumpling to float. While the water boils add all the dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and mix well In another bowl add all the wet ingredients together thoroughly. Then add to the dry mixture and mix together thoroughly but lightly. Put your cloot (cloth) into the hot water for 2 to 3 minutes, remove and squeeze out excess water. It’s best to use a dense weaved cloth. Some shops sell specialised ones like the one I used but a quality tea towel is just as good. Lay the cloot out on a clean surface and evenly dust a generous amount of flour across the surface in a nice even spread. Just enough to cover the entire cloot surface. This forms a protective glue around the dumpling.

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Empty the mixture into the centre of the floured cloot, pull the cloot up and around the mixture to form a small cannonball shape. Tie twice around the top of the cloot with string leaving a little room for the dumpling to expand. Leave extra string so that the dumpling can be tied to the pot handles to float submerged in the water. Now turn the heat down until you get a constant simmer. Put a small oven casserole dish lid in the base of the pot and place the clootie dumpling into the pot. Tie the string to the pot handles so that it floats, simmer with the lid on for four hours. Remove the clootie dumpling and gently peel off the cloot, the dumpling will look pale almost white skin. Then place the clootie dumpling on a baking tray and put in a pre heated oven 108c for 15-18 mins until darker crust has formed.

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Cranachan Cream Recipe Prep 10 mins. (Plus further 1 hour to chill raspberries) Ready 20 mins Serves 8-10 Ingredients 250 ml whipping cream 2 tbsp fresh raspberries 35ml Isle of Raasay Hebridean Single Malt Whisky (optional) 1 tsp honey 1 tbsp Scottish oats 1/2 tsp vanilla extract Pinch of fine sea salt 1 tbsp icing sugar

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To make the cranachan cream, put the raspberries and whisky in a bowl crush gently into smaller pieces with a fork cover with cling film and put in the fridge for one hour. Set the oats and sea salt to the side for later Place all the remaining ingredients (except the berries, sea salt and oats) into a large chilled bowl and mix until you get medium peaks. (If over whipped the cream will be heavy and grainy so leave covered in the fridge for 40 mins and fold over with a spatula to return to medium luxurious texture). Now add the crushed raspberries and oats and fold in gently, serve immediately with you clootie dumpling. Serving suggestion Portion the clootie dumpling into serving plate, add a dollop of cranachan cream and enjoy with your favourite wee dram Merry Christmas to us all, everyone.

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Whisky

Skailg: A wee livener with… Tom Morton

t’s been some year, hasn’t it? H

ere in the northernmost Scottish archipelago, the last bit of the land before we start to get all Scandinavian or Arctic, we’ve perhaps felt a little isolated, protected from the worst of the Covid-19 pandemic. Shetland is a place used to battening down the hatches in the face of fearsome weather, and on occasion huddling in, “coorying in” to protect the community from disease. And so after a flurry of serious infections in the earliest stages of Covid, people started looking

after themselves and their neighbours, staying at home, organising food deliveries. We didn’t travel. And infection rates fell away locally. Vaccination take-up was high, and gradually we seemed to be coming out of the locked-down state this most sociable of communities had placed itself in. We were able to travel to the Scottish mainland, sometimes beyond. My father was dying in Ayrshire, and as restrictions eased, I was able to be there for his final few days.

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There will always be a particular whisky associated with that night, one that came as a relief after his long struggle with the dying of the light. He was ready to leave, fed up with the disabilities forced on him by age and illness. Unable to do the things he liked. And he couldn’t drink the whisky I’d bought for him the previous year, and which he’d loved. He was a man who wasn’t particularly fond of Scotland’s national drink. Lengthy periods spent in Spain had left him with a taste for the older Osborne brandies from Jerez, and it was the resemblance of Berry Brothers and Rudd’s Blended Malt Scotch Whisky, sherry cask matured, to his favourite Spanish brandy that sold him on the dram. On the night he died, there was still a good half bottle left. He was peaceful, sleeping, but we expected him to last the night, and I decided that I would stay and take turns sitting with him. No driving, so I helped myself to a dram from that open bottle.

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It’s a hefty whisky, carefully calculated to give you that Christmas pudding, fruitcake and marmalade hit, that deep, comforting sweetness that, as I get older, I tend to crave in an evening dram. At 44.2 percent I’m guessing it’s cask strength – not all whisky comes out of the cask at ferocious alcohol levels, and this is a mixture of Speysides, some of which will be quite young. There’s no age statement. I’ve tasted heavily sherried whiskies which, at three years old, had all the power and depth of much older liquids. So yes, I can see why dad thought it was “almost as good” as a decent brandy. There is a sulphurous element to it, a hint of rubber tyres in an old garage, but nothing sufficient to put you off; to take away that comfort. Berry Brothers and Rudd is based in London, and is one of the oldest wine and spirits dealers in the world. It began in 1698 as a coffee house and grocery store at 3 St James’s Street, run by a woman known only as “the Widow Bourne”. More than three centuries later, it continues to operate at that address, though it is now a huge business with a worldwide clientele, much of its profitability over the years based on the famous Cutty Sark whisky blend. It’s still a family business.

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That night I sipped the BB and R sherry cask blended malt, feeling vaguely guilty that it was a gift I’d given, and now I was helping myself, without dad’s permission, without sharing it with him. But I soon felt the relaxing glow. A teardrop of water was all it needed. And as I finished the glass dad simply slipped away, his wife, my stepmother, holding his hand. So maybe it seems odd to be recommending this particular whisky, one with such associations, as a Christmas libation. Yet what is Christmas for? What does it do? Christmas is a time for gathering, for families coming together. As I write, it looks as if that will be possible in person, and we’re certainly planning to do that, in Glasgow. My stepmother will be there. We will be remembering absent friends, an absent father, and Christmas gives us that opportunity. What could be more appropriate than to toast dad in the only whisky he really liked? And one which carries with it all kinds of Christmassy flavours, that puddingy sweetness, that warming against the winter, that golden light in the darkness? Also, and here’s a thing: It’s really remarkable value for money. As I write, it’s sitting on a well-known website at just £25.50 a bottle, reduced from £34.95. And even at the higher price, it’s a bargain.

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Dad would have appreciated that. He always had an eye for a deal. I remember as a child and later as a teenager being perpetually embarrassed when we were out shopping by his requests for “a discount for cash” from hapless shop assistants. So this is a bargain. A potion that conjures up memories. And a sign of hope for the future. It’s my Christmas dram.

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Tasting Notes Berry Brothers and Rudd Blended Malt Whisky, Sherry Cask Matured

Colour Deep reddy-gold. There may be some artificial (caramel) colouring in it, but you don’t begrudge the blenders at this price.

Nose Officially “put together by Doug McIvor and Ronnie Cox at Berry Bros and Rudd to showcase the best of sherry-cask whisky”, and I think they’ve done very well. Lots of sherry notes, that dark, crick-bat linseed oil, resinous, old-library smell, with just the merest hint of garage floors (in a good way)

Palate Loads of dark fruitcake, dried fruit generally, dates and apricots, A leathery, wax polish on old oak note, and just a bit of sulphur acknowledging that there’s some young liquid in here. It doesn’t have the sophistication of something like a Glenfarclas 15, but it is really satisfying.

Finish Endearingly long and warming. Pine cones on a hardwood fire as the snow falls gently outside. Ideal with cheese. Or, for that matter, Christmas cake.

£25.50- £35 a bottle. 44.2 per cent alcohol

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Events

rized personal effects from the poet Lord Byron’s last, ill-fated trip to Greece have gone on display at the University of Edinburgh. A handwritten phrasebook, the poet’s final journal and a certificate granting him the freedom of the town where he settled, and died, feature in the exhibition. The artefacts, which are emblematic of Byron’s intense love affair with the country, are part of an exhibition that explores Scottish–Greek connections in the early 19th century. Although famously described, by Lady Caroline Lamb, as ‘mad, bad and dangerous to know’, the great Romantic poet– who spent his childhood in Aberdeenshire – was revered throughout Greece.

George Gordon Byron was a vociferous champion of the Greek struggle for independence, which began 200 years ago, and his death at Missolonghi in 1824 was widely mourned. The exhibition, to be held in the University’s Main Library, explores Byron’s Greek connections through a series of exhibits loaned from the National Library of Scotland. Byron, who used his fame to internationalise the Greeks’ fight for liberty, first arrived in Athens on Christmas Day 1809, when Greece was still under Ottoman rule. “While most Grand Tourists went to Athens for its impressive archaeology, the ruins seemed to Byron to be ‘a nation’s sepulchre’,” says the exhibition’s curator, Alasdair Grant.

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Lord Byron 1813

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The poet as a young man circa 1804

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“Among these symbols of death, Byron sought life in the living language of the Greeks. He began compiling a list of useful Modern Greek phrases in a notebook,” says Dr Grant.

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Byron returned to Greece in 1823, more than two years into the Revolution, by which time he was becoming ever more devoted to the Greek cause.

Some, such as ‘Not so much ceremony, I pray you’, perhaps give a little insight into the manner in which Byron tended – or wished – to be received.

In Missolonghi in January 1824, he composed his last completed poem to mark his 36th birthday, written in his final journal. Awake! (not Greece— she is awake!), he wrote, Awake, my Spirit!

How much he learned is difficult to tell: Byron filled just 14 pages with phrases and their translations and left the rest of the book conspicuously blank.

Two months later, the people of Missolonghi granted Byron the freedom of their town in gratitude for the funds and celebrity he had brought to the Revolution.

Aberdeen Grammar where there young Byron received some of his early education Photo Bill Harrison CC BY-SA 2.0

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The privilege would not last long: just the next month, he died, aged 36, in his adopted land, suffering from a fever that he described as a ‘nervous disorder’. They new exhibition is hosted by the University of Edinburgh’s School of History, Classics and Archaeology in connection with the University’s Centre for Research Collections. Edina/Athena: The Greek Revolution and the Athens of the North, 1821–2021 runs until 29 January 2022. Although Byron is regarded as one of the most influential English poets he often referred to himself as a Scot.

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Born in London, on January 22, 1788 he was the only child of John ‘Mad Jack’ Byron, a scandalous character, and his second wife Catherine Gordon, heiress to the estate of Gight Castle in Aberdeenshire. With an eye on her fortune Jack Byron married Catherine on 13 May 1785, and took her name in order to claim her estate and become John Byron Gordon. Within a short time Byron had engineered the sale of his wife’s estate to pay his debts and within two years had squandered her inheritance of £23,500, equivalent to more than £3.5million today. Pursued by creditors he moved to France with Catherine in tow until she returned alone to London at the end of 1787 and gave birth to her son, George Gordon Byron, in January 1788. Within two years Catherine moved back to Aberdeenshire with the young George where she had family.

Castle of Gight Photo marsupium photography CC BY-SA 2.0

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By most accounts the young Byron’s childhood in and around the coastal town of Banff, where he learned to swim at the beach by Tarlair, and across Aberdeenshire was a pretty idyllic one. Certainly, he always remembered it with fondness, although some of the locals found the boy to be a little spoilt and rather mischievous. There are tales of him visiting the Old Manse and climbing a pear tree in the garden to steal some of the fruit but fell and hurt himself. The local doctor was called to ‘bleed’ the boy, a frequent remedy at the time. Young Byron was said to be so upset at the treatment that he developed a life long fear of ‘being bled. Byron, who received his early formal education at Aberdeen Grammar School, referred to himself as “half a Scot by birth, and bred a whole one”. However, his life in the North East of Scotland ended when he was just 10-years-old when he inherited a title and estate in England.

Captain John ‘Mad Jack’ Byron

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The poet’s mother Catherine Gordon Byron

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Antiques

Antique Hunting with… Roo Irvine

hristmas present from the past F

or many of us the most magical time of year is associated with the Victorians. “A Christmas Carol” by Charles Dickens’ tells the most delightful tale. It is strong in moral message, has a feel-good factor and it epitomises the picture-postcard Victorian scene of snow-covered shop windows, lit with the golden candle glow of the treasures that lie within. Images of eager little faces peering through frost covered window panes, full of hope, excitement and festive cheer. Often, in our fantasy scene

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a Christmas tree, beautifully adorned, stands majestic, twinkling with ornaments like stars. Indeed, stars may have been the inspiration for the first Christmas trees, originating not in Victorian Britain but several centuries before in Germany around the Middle Ages. There are records that show that as far back as 1419 a guild in Freiburg brought a tree indoors and decorated it with tinsel, gingerbreads, apples and flourpaste wafers.

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Children admiring toys in a show window in 1908 Photo US Library of Congress

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A Victorian idea of a family Christmas 1858

Although many theories exist as to the when the tradition of a Christmas tree first began my favourite, and possibly most romantic notion, is that 16th century German pastor Martin Luther saw the stars twinkling through the branches of a pine tree on a dark winters night and decided to create the first Christmas tree. Theory aside, there is no doubt that a Christmas tree must shine, bejewelled and adorned with all that represents

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the magic of the season.. In terms of Christmas ornaments, some of us buy new every year whereas others hold on to the most beloved decorations that have been used for many years or even passed down through successive family generations. As a result we may be lucky enough to possess some vintage ornaments but true antique pieces are a rarity.

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Perhaps the most clever and collectable of Christmas antiques are the Dresden pieces. They emulate heavy ornaments made of silver or gold but are in fact made of paper. Eastern Germany was renowned for producing such ornaments and ‘kugels’, the round balls known as baubles to us. Indeed, the historic town of Dresden became synonymous with these tiny ornamental treasures. The Dresdens were produced mainly from 1880 to 1914 and unsurprisingly it was the outbreak of Word War One that halted production. One of the last

ornaments in the shape of a tank seems to say it all, far removed from the whimsical, innocent motifs of previous years. Like all antiques, it’s the early pieces that are prized the most for their artistry, skill, beauty and rarity. Only two to three inches in size their production was a team effort. Around 10 factories pressed damp sheets of heavy paper into a press with the pattern embossed into it, creating the separate parts that would make a three dimensional decoration. These parts were then picked up by local families to then be assembled at home, painted with silver or gilt and sold.

Vintage antique Christmas Dresden cardboard ornaments like these can be found on eBay for as little as $13

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Lot of rare vintage Dresden Christmas ornaments for sale on eBay for $150

It was a perfect amalgamation of mass factory production and handmade cottage industry charm. The motifs were infinite - from sleighs and bicycles to clocks, opera glasses and champagne bottles. Some were even more exotic from polar bears to alligators, peacocks to eagles

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and ocean liners! Not just tree ornaments, some were used as place settings, added to Christmas cards or even held a small sweet treat inside. They are almost the Faberge Eggs of the Christmas ornament world.

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The artistry, and skill involved along with the visual beauty made these Dresden baubles quite expensive at the time, and they are even more valuable now. Although they were made in their thousands very few have survived so they are much sought-after.

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Rare to find but true collectors know where to look, with prices per ornament ranging from $25 to $10,000. Even modern pieces can fetch double figures and some recent examples pay homage to Scotland with men in kilts, Scottish regimental soldiers and even wee Scottie dogs!

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Each piece was an art form in itself. To own a collection of Dresdens is almost too good to sell. I’m not sure any amount of money could make me part with these rare beauties that epitomise Christmas and shame our modern mass-produced decorations. You may not own Dresdens or even any antique Christmas decorations but anything older than 50 years, hold on to it. The

ghosts of Christmases past will thank you for it. In the words of Ebenezer Scrooge: “ I will honour Christmas in my heart, and try to keep it all the year. I will live in the Past, the Present and the Future.” Some of the most beautiful Christmas ornaments do just that… and on that note: “Merry Christmas Everyone!”

Marley’s Ghost by John Leech 1843

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History

eautiful

urleigh By Scott Aitken

urleigh Castle on the outskirts of the Kinross-shire village of Milnathort may not look it now but in its heyday it was feted by royalty, mired in conspiracy and a hotbed of politics. The roofless 500-year-old ruin was once the centre of power for the Balfours of Burleigh and the seat of their ancestral line for over 250 years. The lands on which the castle rests were first granted to John Balfour of Balgarvie by King James II in 1456. Although there may have been an earlier structure on the spot the current building is believed to have been built in the late 15th and early 16th centuries, and extended by successive generations.

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Burleigh Castle near Milnathort Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

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The three-storey house with its unusual corner tower, round at the bottom and rectangular at the top, is a striking example of Jacobean architecture. Over the centuries the castle played host to number of important historic figures, including Mary of Guise, mother of Mary Queen of Scots, and King James VI who was responsible for elevating the Balfour family to the Scottish peerage when he declared Sir Michael Balfour the 1st Lord Balfour of Burleigh in 1607. Balfour was close to King James. In 1599 an Act of Parliament directed landowners and people of note to buy weapons and armour from him, an order which pretty much gave Balfour a licence to make money. Balfour had been granted the right to import arms from abroad and was even sent to Holland to buy weapons, a move which is thought to have been James VI preparing for war should he have to fight for the English crown on the death of Queen Elizabeth. As things turned out, there was no need for a violence.

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Connecting wall at Burleigh Castle Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

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South facade of the Tower House Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

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Balfour went on to become a member of the Scottish Privy Council, advisors to the King, and ambassador to the Grand Duke of Tuscany and Duke of Lorraine. Generations of the Balfour family continued to thrive over the next century or more until fortunes changed in 1709. Shortly before ascending to the title of the 5th Lord Burleigh, Robert Balfour became embroiled in a love triangle. He was alleged to have murdered the schoolmaster of Inverkeithing, Henry Stenhouse, because the academic had married Balfour’s childhood sweetheart. Balfour was arrested and sentenced to death by beheading. However, while imprisoned in Edinburgh Tolbooth awaiting his fate he managed to escape, dressed in his sister’s clothes, and flee the country. As a fugitive from justice Balfour threw his lot in with the exiled Jacobite King James Stuart and took part in the failed 1715 rising. For his part in the attempted coup Balfour had his lands confiscated by the Hanoverian crown. He died in exile in France in 1757.

South-west tower of Burleigh Castle Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

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The castle remains as viewed from the south Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

Having been seized from the Balfour family Burleigh Castle was sold to the Irwins before eventually passing to the Grahams of Kinross.

its day, complete with a vaulted basement, turnpike stair and cap house providing access to a parapet walk supported by ornate corbels.

Today, what remains of the castle comprises mostly a former square courtyard on the western side of the castle while the tower in the north-west corner is remarkably intact.

The strength of the castle is also illustrated by the numerous gun loops, pistol holes and other defensive capabilities built into the structure to deter attackers.

Built with walls that are more than 5ft thick the tower must have been an impressive sight in

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Often overlooked on the castle trail through Scotland Burleigh remains a fascinating link with country’s history.

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View the castle remains from the west Photo by Supergolden CC BY-SA 3.0

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Bookmarker

Tough competition for Highland Book Prize T

he Highland Society of London and Moniack Mhor Writers’ Centre have announced the Longlist for the 2021 Highland Book Prize. The competition celebrates the finest work that comes from, or is inspired by, the Scottish Highlands. Presented by the Highland Society of London, and facilitated by Moniack Mhor Writers’ Centre, the prize seeks to recognise the rich talent, landscape, and cultural diversity of Scotland’s Highlands and Islands. A total of 12 titles have been selected from more than 70 submissions for this literary award, and include auto-fiction, environmental non-fiction, an exploration of Highland slave history, Gaelic fiction and poetry, and Shetlandic poetry. Many of the submissions engaged

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with Highland culture, heritage, or landscape. Submissions were also invited from authors, writing on any subject, who were born or brought up in the Highlands or had settled in the area as their home. Each title was reviewed and scored multiple times by a volunteer panel of 180 readers from around the world. The 2021 longlisted titles are: An Seachdamh Tonn | The Seventh Wave by Sandaidh NicDhòmhnaill Jones (Gaelic poetry, Acair). Ben Dorain: a Conversation with a Mountain by Garry MacKenzie (Poetry, The Irish Pages Press/Cló An Mhíl Bhuí). Borges and Me: An Encounter by Jay Parini (Autofiction, Canongate). Deep Wheel Orcadia by Harry Josephine Giles (Poetry, Picador).

Hiort by Iain F. Macleod (Gaelic fiction, CLÀR). In a Veil of Mist by Donald S. Murray (Fiction, Saraband). Islands of Abandonment: Life in the Post-Human Landscape by Cal Flyn (Non-fiction, William Collins). Of Stone and Sky by Merryn Glover (Fiction, Birlinn). Regeneration: The Rescue of a Wild Land by Andrew Painting (Non-fiction, Birlinn). Slaves and Highlanders: Silenced Histories of Scotland and the Caribbean by David Alston (Nonfiction, Edinburgh University Press). The Stone Age by Jen Hadfield (Poetry, Picador). VEEVE by Christine De Luca (Poetry, Mariscat Press).

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Each title on the list will now be considered by the Judging Panel, who will announce the shortlist in March 2022. The winning title will be awarded in May next year. Alex Ogilvie remains as Chair of the panel from previous years. He is joined this year by judges Jenny Niven, freelance producer and director, and Chair of Literature Alliance Scotland, Kapka Kassabova, poet and writer of fiction and narrative non-fiction whose book Border (Granta) won the 2017 Highland Book Prize, and Mark Wringe, Senior Lecturer in Gaelic Language and Culture at Sabhal Mòr Ostaig, University of the Highlands and Islands. Mark will be joined by a shadow Gaelic

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judge, to be announced soon. ‘We are delighted to support the 2021 Highland Book Prize and excited by the depth and diversity of this year’s longlist,” said Alex Ogilvie, Trustee of the Highland Society of London. “Already celebrating its fifth anniversary, the Highland Book Prize goes from strength to strength in terms of the quality of the longlist titles and the engagement by authors, publishers, bookshops, and the reading public.’ His enthusiasm was echoed by fellow judge Jenny Niven.

‘It’s always a pleasure to be part of this process as it reveals each time the range and ambition of work being produced - I’m very much looking forward to getting under the skin of this fabulous set of books,” said Jenny. “The readers have provided the judges with a brilliantly rich and diverse longlist. It’s great to see a range of publishers, from small Scottish presses to the larger international publishing houses. Also wonderful is the range of languages, with Gaelic, Shetlandic, and Orcadian titles featuring so highly alongside English, representing the quality literature being produced right across the Highlands.’

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Travel

Romantic idyll that’s best for a rest

here was a time when a sheiling was little more than a simple hut used to shelter people and animals in lonely, remote places during summer months in the Highlands.

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The idea of one being a secluded luxury cabin by the side of its own loch, surrounded by the spectacular scenery of the Scottish Highlands would have been considered a fantasy. But, now it’s real…and it’s available.

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The Sheiling, located near to the popular village of Plockton, is a two-bedroom holiday let which has just been crowned the best in Britain.

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Despite being up and running for just six months the luxury wooden lodge beat off competition to be recognised as Britain’s Best Holiday Let, as well as winning the top spot in the Best View category.

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Owner Martin Matheson, who runs his own building company, started renting out The Sheiling earlier this year after spotting the potential to build a holiday let in this idyllic spot. Martin and his wife Mairi purchased Loch Lundie in 2017 and spent the best part of four years designing, building and decorating the property over a four-year period with the help of local craftsmen, before finally opening its doors to holidaymakers in May. The Sheiling has been carefully designed to seamlessly fit into its surroundings with a circular grass-topped roof and a modern contemporary theme throughout. It also boasts a lochside hot tub, a large wrap-around deck, and a private pier where guests have access to a small rowing boat. The awards, which were arranged by Sykes Holiday Cottages, saw holiday home owners from across the UK competing to be crowned the winner and walk away with a £10,000 cash prize.

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As well as Britain’s Best Holiday Let, smaller cash prizes were up for grabs for further categories including Best Renovation, Best Quirky Holiday Let, Best Sustainable Holiday Let and Best Interior Design. Winners of the other categories included a four-bedroom ecoproperty in Perthshire, Scotland which took home the award for Best Sustainable Holiday Let. Properties were judged on a number of factors, including customer reviews, location and facilities on offer. Judges were also asked to consider if each property would be the first choice for holidaymakers looking for a staycation. “We’ve put so much into The Sheiling to make it a success and since opening back in May we’ve constantly received great feedback from our visitors, but an award like this really does mean a lot,” said Martin.

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“Taking on the project to purchase and build on Loch Lundie was a big decision, but we are so proud of what we’ve achieved. We were booked out over the past summer and 2022 is already filling up fast – with this award win likely to take our bookings to the next level. “It’s fantastic that Sykes Holiday Cottages have taken the initiative to run a competition like this to showcase some of the best places to stay in the UK” Sykes’ Britain’s Best Holiday Let competition was launched to inspire holiday let owners and celebrate excellence in holiday cottage accommodation across Britain. “The Sheiling was certainly a worthy winner – it beat off tough competition, but it is clear to see that this holiday let is nothing short of first class,” said Graham Donoghue, CEO at Sykes Holiday Cottages.

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History

Picturing our Pictish past

tunning new reconstructions have revealed how Scotland’s largest known Pictish fort may have looked over one thousand years ago.

which were once thought to be eight metres thick and six metres high, as well as dwellings within the fort.

Three-dimensional images of Burghead in Moray have been created based on archaeological excavations by the University of Aberdeen.

It has long been known that Burghead was home to a Pictish settlement but it was thought that the 19th century development of the modern town had eroded most traces of this important period of its history.

Funded by Historic Environment Scotland as part of a wider video project to enable the public to learn more about Scotland’s Pictish past, the images showcase the enormous defensive ramparts,

The landward ramparts were levelled and part of the seaward defences was destroyed in order to build the modern harbour.

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More than 30 Pictish carved stones were discovered during this destruction of the fort but just six carved bulls have survived along with a number of fragments of early Christian sculpture. When University of Aberdeen archaeologists first began excavations there in 2015, they expected little to have survived such extensive building work close by. But over the last five years, a very different picture has emerged and the digs, led by the University’s Professor Gordon Noble, and funded by both Historic Environment Scotland and the Leverhulme Trust, have yielded some of the most significant Pictish items and building remains ever uncovered. It is this work which has enabled such a detailed reconstruction of how the site may have looked. “The scale of houses and buildings we have discovered evidence of show that this was a densely populated and important Pictish site,” said Professor Noble. “We have found many objects which have helped us to learn more about the everyday lives of Burghead’s inhabitants between the 6th and 10th centuries AD. From metalworking to weaponry and even hair and dress pins, with each new dig we are finding out more about our ancestors who lived here.

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Burghead today Photo HES

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“The foundations of the huge ramparts have survived far better than anyone anticipated, despite their wilful destruction over the centuries and the midden layers, which is effectively where the Picts threw their rubbish, have provided startling insights into the lives of the Picts to the archaeologists.

The reconstructions were coordinated by Dr Alice Watterson of the University of Dundee with additional filming and editing work by Kieran Duncan and arial drone filming by Dr Kieran Baxter, members of Dundee’s 3DVisLab research group.

“It wonderful to see the work of our excavations spanning more than five years brought together in these stunning reconstructions which offer an amazing insight into how Burghead may have looked.”

They also include a spectacular well enveloped in the ramparts. Elements of this can still be seen today and the archaeologists have pieced together how this fitted with dwellings and other buildings across the site.

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Evidence of early Christian occupation was also uncovered in previous excavations, supporting theories that a chapel once stood at the entrance to the site, and this has been translated into the 3-D design. The fort at Burghead was destroyed by fire in the 10th century - a time when Vikings are known to have been raiding the Moray coastline – bringing to a rapid end a way of life which had endured for centuries. The fort then remained unoccupied until around the 12th Century. “Burghead fort was one of the most important places in Early Medieval Scotland, and was built to be dramatic and imposing,” said Dr Kevin Grant, Archaeology Manager of Historic Environment Scotland. “These reconstructions help us imagine experiencing this spectacular site in its hey-day. We are also delighted to support these excavations, which are transforming our understanding of Pictish Scotland and saving important archaeological remains from being lost to the waves.”

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December 2021 This month’s Discover Scotland multimedia magazine has been brought to you by: Sponsors Loch Lomond Seaplanes Glenturret Distillery Lochter Activity Centre Turin Castle Argyll Walks Great Scot Photography

Thank you to all our donors, supporters, patrons and sponsors without whose help producing Discover Scotland and distributing it for free to a global audience would be much more difficult. If you would like more information on how to help us fly the flag for Scotland and all things Scottish

Find out Here Photo by VisitScotland / Discover Clackmannanshire / Damian Shields Views of the Wallace Monument as seen from Dumyat at the western end of the main range of the Ochil hills

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