Scan Magazine | Design Profile | MIELKO JEWELLERY
Left: Hydra rings/Gold (6.7 carat) with tourmaline, and white gold (8.6 carat) with aquamarine, 27,499 DKK. Middle left: Saturn Ring, 11mm, 18 carat gold, 42,000 DKK. Middle right: Saturn Light bracelet in silver from 7,300 DKK. Right: Ceres eardrops 24 carat gold-plated silver chain with blue saltwater Akoya pearls from Japan, 1,799 DKK.
The ‘it’ ring of Copenhagen: handmade jewellery by MIELKO You heard it here first: Charlotte Mielko’s eponymous Copenhagen jewellery label is one of the city’s best-kept luxury secrets. By Lena Hunter | Photos: MIELKO JEWELLERY
MIELKO’s unique collections of rings, bracelets and necklaces pay homage to celestial bodies – moons, asteroids, planets… and, in fact, borrow some mystique from their Elysian namesakes. Though each piece draws on our ageold reverence for the heavens, Mielko’s work is far from overstated. Melding bold lines with delicate details, MIELKO JEWELLERY enthralls without overstepping, exuding a quiet opulence that has drawn a close cult following from the local fashion community. The Saturn ring “I made the Saturn ring 23 years ago,” explains Mielko. “A friend’s silver ring had caught my eye when I was working in fashion design and living in Paris. It was beautiful. I wanted to make something of my own, from the heart.” The ring quickly drew the attention of designers and models. Formed of two bands locked together by a small loop, it’s heavy and tactile – a little rock and roll – and elegantly simple.
“Colourful gems with triangles came to the festive Calypso collection, and I introduced pearls four years ago in the Ceres collection,” says Mielko.
Through word of mouth, the design spread. Birgitte Raben, of Rabens Saloner, has a Saturn ring. Italian designer Angela Missoni, too. “It’s beautiful for men and women,” says Mielko. “It’s very meditative and holistic.”
MIELKO was the first in Denmark to use light-blue Japanese Akoya pearls. “They are unbelievably beautiful,” says Mielko. She herself wears the Hydra ring – a slender band clasping a fabulous green tourmaline in gold claws.
An expanding universe
From subtle to showcase Though MIELKO ranges from subtle to showcase, the maison itself is small – and the service uncompromising. “The cornerstones are quality, personal relationships and a tangible process, so every piece is handmade in Denmark,” says Mielko.
MIELKO’s collections are little universes. After Saturn came pieces in gold, silver, black diamond, opulent tourmaline and sapphire. A line of bejewelled pendant earrings called Cassini, sumptuous cuff bracelets, and tear-drop necklaces followed. Charlotte Mielko.
Many clients have had their rings for 20 years and come back to add stones or resize – and 2022 anticipates a new constellation of designs. Simply put: “Not one kind of person buys my jewellery. It’s many types of people who want something personal.”
Web: www.charlottemielko.dk Instagram: @mielkojewellery
January 2022 | Issue 138 | 17