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Our Top-Five Food Haunts in Denmark and Norway
Generous, honest – and always close “We don’t have customers – only guests.” If there is one thing that is immediately clear when speaking to Siv-Hilde Lillehaug, one of two founders and owners of Lofotmat, it is that the restaurant goes its own way. “We’re honest and genuine, and we give a lot of ourselves,” she says. By Linnea Dunne
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Photos: Lofotmat
Siv-Hilde grew up on a farm with a mother and a grandmother who were both very much into cooking and, 33 years ago, she met Geir Robertsen at Nordland Fiskerifagskole (Nordland Fishery School). A shared passion for celebrating local ingredients and traditions led them to taking on a small joint in the fishing village of Henningsvær in northern Norway’s Lofoten islands, and today they boast a Cordon Bleu – the Norwegian Chef’s Association’s honorary award – in addition to a stream of very happy guests.
Truly local Since graduating from cookery school in 1987, Siv-Hilde has also taken a master’s degree and studied northern Norwegian food culture and traditions, something 70 |
Issue 101
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June 2017
that has left a clear mark on Lofotmat’s profile. “Our motto is to be generous, honest and local,” says the master chef, using the Norwegian word ‘nært’, which literally means ‘close’ and describes a closeness in both a geographical and personal sense. “If we say the hollandaise is made using eggs from Solheim Gård, then it’s made using eggs from Solheim Gård. We don’t buy cheap, frozen stuff. If we say local fish, it really is local.” It is clear that the people behind Lofotmat hold their guests in very high regard, because there is no compromising with their transparent approach. “It’s really important for us to be honest all the way. We cook everything ourselves,
we use local ingredients as often as possible and we never, ever compromise on quality,” says the chef. “What you see is what you get. We’re in full control of everything. Got an allergy? No problem – we know exactly what’s in every single dish.” Siv-Hilde describes the local area as somewhat of a food mecca, bursting with fresh fish and meat of all kinds. Lofoten’s signature dish is cod, or skrei, and the restaurant’s own most popular specialties are also seafood dishes: about half of all lunch guests choose the renowned fish soup, and the à la carte menu presents the traditional hungdried ‘boknafisk’. “It’s simple but just perfection in terms of composition,” says Siv-Hilde, explaining that this far north, you mostly get peas, root vegetables and onions to complement your fish or meat. “But we don’t just have great food,” she continues. “There’s great local drink too!” In line with the ‘nært’ motto,