Discover Germany | Special Theme | Discover Germany’s Top Wineries
The historic vineyard building in Deidesheim.
TRADITIONAL CRAFTSMANSHIP IN EVERY DROP OF WINE Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl has been among Germany’s most renowned wineries since its founding in 1849 and is known for its dry Riesling wines as well as an excellent collection of sparkling wine. As ambassadors of natural viticulture, the winery combines centuries-old traditions with a modern philosophy. TEXT: JESSICA HOLZHAUSEN I PHOTOS: WEINGUT REICHSRAT VON BUHL
The names sound mysterious: Forster Ungeheuer, Pechstein and Kirchenstück. Hiding behind these monikers are not the fairytale characters one might expect, but instead some of the best vineyards in Germany – owned by the Reichsrat von Buhl winery for over 150 years. Composer Felix Mendelssohn Bartholdy praised the taste of the wines, and a Von Buhl Riesling was even served at the opening ceremony of the Suez Canal in 1869. The Bavarian crown eventually awarded Armand von Buhl, and later his son Franz Eberhard, the title ‘Reichsrat’. Today, guests from all over the world come to Deidesheim on the Palatinate Wine Route to visit the legendary cellars and taste the outstanding wines. “Our goal is to make the origin of the grapes, the ‘terroir’ as an expression of the soil, the climate, plants, culture, tradition and manual labour, all tangible in our wines,” says man30 | Issue 87 | November 2021
But is there a favourite? That depends entirely on the mood of the day, according to Dennis Geller, who provides the best argument for tasting different wines: “Riesling is so versatile and can show itself in many different ways, making it suitable for every day and every taste.”
aging director Dennis Geller. “We want to keep the traditional values and quality promises while constantly improving and developing them.” In doing so, they are not following any fashionable trends in viticulture, but rather continuing what the winery has stood for since it was founded in 1849: an internationally recognised top wine estate with the best sites in the Mittelhaardt region. Despite the loyalty to its historic roots, Weingut Reichsrat von Buhl is now a modern and certified organic winery: “We see it as our obligation to make the best wines from every vineyard. In our opinion, this can only be done in harmony with nature,” says Dennis Geller. In the ancient cellars, both wine and sparkling wine still ferment according to centuries-old traditions. This way, every bottle of Reichsrat von Buhl contains a piece of true craftsmanship that can be tasted in every drop.
The Forster Kirchenstück is the highest-ranking site in the Palatinate region.